Scotland November/December 2022 - Sample

ANCESTRY • HISTORY • HERITAGE • TRAVEL

The world’s leading Scottish-interest magazine

Over the Sea to Skye From Eilean Donan to the Misty Isle on a private cruise

WIN

Bonnie Prince Charlie The little island that played a big part in his escape

a luxury stay in the Scottish Isles

FAREWELL YOUR MAJESTY

SCOTTISH SOUVENIRS

Authentic gifts you’ll want to keep forever

The Queen’s final Scottish journey

Edinburgh’s historic hotels The capital’s most atmospheric places to stay

ANDREW MORAY

Unsung hero of the Scottish Wars of Independence

ISSUE 125 Nov/Dec 2022 £4.95

Prince Charles became King Charles III on 8 September 2022

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Editor’s letter The past couple of months have been a time of much sadness across Scotland, following the death of The Queen at her beloved Balmoral, and so we pay tribute to her in Scotland Says Goodbye (p28) by tracing her final journey through the country she so loved.

It’s also been a time of much change, and we now have a new King of Scots as well as a new Duke of Rothesay. You can read all about the shift in roles in Royal Titles (p56), where our expert in hereditary matters, Bruce Durie, explains the origin of many of the Scottish titles.

Before the pivotal news, I managed to escape my desk and take a cruise in the Inner Hebrides, where I got up close to lots of Scottish wildlife and visited some of the places most impacted by the Highland Clearances, to report back on tales of resilience and newly harmonious communities. You can read about my coastal tour in Over the Sea to Skye (p16) and enter our competition (p27) for your chance to win a stay at one of Skye’s cosiest hotels.

Of course, when you think of crossing the sea to Skye, you can’t help but think of Bonnie Prince Charlie, and this issue, we take a deep dive into the island from which he made his escape, Benbecula, in Between the Uists (p66), to discover what life was like there for the MacDonalds of Clanranald and why today it’s somewhere you’d probably more like to escape to than away from.

I hope you enjoy the issue, feel free to get in contact to let me know your thoughts, or sign up to our newsletter (see overleaf) for even more Scotland stories.

ANCESTRY • HISTORY • HERITAGE • TRAVEL

COVER IMAGES:

© PA IMAGES/ALAMY

The world’s leading Scottish-interest magazine

Over the Sea to Skye From Eilean Donan to the Misty Isle on a private cruise

WIN

Bonnie Prince Charlie The little island that played a big part in his escape

a luxury stay in the Scottish Isles

FAREWELL YOUR MAJESTY

SCOTTISH SOUVENIRS

Authentic gifts you’ll want to keep forever

The Queen’s final Scottish journey

Edinburgh’s historic hotels

ANDREW MORAY

Unsung hero of the Scottish Wars of Independence

ISSUE 125 Nov/Dec 2022 £4.95

The capital’s most atmospheric places to stay

001_UK_COVER_SM125 final(1)(1).indd 1

05/10/2022 15:49

Picturesque Eilean Donan Castle © Stuart Mackay Inset: A portrait of Prince Charles Edward Stuart or ‘Bonnie Prince Charlie’ © National Galleries of Scotland

SALLY COFFEY

Editor

editor@scotlandmag.com

@Scotland_Mag

facebook.com/ScotlandMagazine

@scotlandmagazine

Scotland 3

36 Benbecula p66

28 Raasay p16

Stirling Bridge p48 Kilmartin Glen p46

Balmoral Hotel p52

Kagyu Samye Ling p62

CONTENTS ISSUE 125

14 We’ve got mail Your letters and stories of Scotland

16 Over the sea to Skye Our editor takes a private cruise in the waters around the Isle of Skye, discovering marine wildlife and tales of the past as she goes

27 Competition Your chance to win a luxury escape to the Isle of Skye at an award-winning hotel for you and a guest

03 Editor’s letter 06 The clan courier Scottish news and the latest travel tips

12 Notes from the isles A family trip stirs memories for our friend

28 Scotland says goodbye We follow the Queen’s final journey through Scotland, from her beloved Balmoral to St Giles’ Cathedral

36 A good catch We meet a creel fisherman who fishes sustainably for prawns in some of the UK’s most beautiful waters

41 The city of Edinburgh is layered with stories, from tales of medieval kings to rumours about Regency writers

74

© JEREMY FLINT PHOTOGRAPHY/UPI/ALAMY/ANDREW PARNELL PHOTOGRAPHY 2015/KRISTINA HAYWARD

52 41 Shopping Take a little piece of Scotland home with you from one of these trusted Scottish brands

46 Travels with Tom Our travel guide visits the ancient Gaelic region of Kilmartin, where mystery and history abound

48 The unsung warrior We tell the story of one of the lesser-known heroes of the Scottish Wars of Independence, Andrew Moray

52 Hotels with history Connect to Edinburgh’s rich past and feel part of its story with a stay in one of these historic hotels

56 Royal titles Following the accession of King Charles III, we look at how this affects royal titles in Scotland

62 Tibet on White Esk We visit the Buddhist monastery of Kagyu Samye Ling in the southwest of Scotland

66 Between the Uists We discover the tiny island of Benbecula, which played a crucial role in Bonnie Prince Charlie’s famous escape

74 Catching the light We profile Scotland’s most celebrated living landscape artist, John Lowrie Morrison

81 Dates for your diary This season’s best events celebrating Scottish culture and history, both in Scotland and overseas

82 The story behind...

Andrew Liddle’s new book explores the extraordinary rivalry between Churchill and Edwin Scrymgeour

Take a teatime break with us Enjoy more essential stories, covering Scottish history, travel, heritage and culture straight to your inbox. To receive Scotland’s latest news and exclusive letters from the Editor, simply visit scotlandmag.com/ fromtheeditor and enter your email address.

Scotland 5

News & events

CLAN COURIER A royal relic returns to its roots and a Skye restaurant achieves top foodie status

[FILM]

THE EDINBURGH WOMAN WHO FOUND A KING

It’s a story that seems straight out of a Hollywood script and so it’s surprising that it’s taken 10 years to come to screen, but finally Edinburgh-based writer-turned-historic-sleuth Philippa Langley MBE is getting the spotlight she deserves.

The Lost King, which premièred at the Toronto International Film Festival in September, tells the story of how Langley felt compelled to right the wrongs that had been directed at King Richard III, whose reputation was damaged by Tudor propaganda, and set about finding the remains of the king.

In 1999 Langley founded The Boar and Saltire, the Scottish branch of the Richard III Society, and from here her research into the whereabouts of the king’s remains bore fruit, eventually leading to her discovery of Richard III under a car park in Leicester in 2012.

The film is out in the UK now with a US date yet to be announced at the time of press. pathe.co.uk/at-home/the-lost-king

[MUSEUMS]

One of Glasgow’s most cherished museums has reopened after an extended period of closure, despite concerns it would close permanently.

Thanks to a petition by Interfaith Glasgow, St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art, named after Glasgow’s patron saint, which stands in the medieval heart of Glasgow, has not only reopened but has extended its opening hours.

St Mungo is the only public museum in the UK dedicated to religious life and art and among its treasured pieces is a bronze sculpture of the Hindu God, Shiva, and a beautiful piece of stained-glass depicting Moses, Elijah, David, and Enoch. It also boasts Britain’s first Zen garden. glasgowlife.org.uk/museums/venues/ st-mungo-museum-of-religious-life-and-art

Scotland 7

© GRAEME HUNTER/PATHE

ST MUNGO REOPENS

[ H E R I TAG E ]

THE STONE COMES HOME Stolen by the English during the reign of King Edward I and finally returned to the Scots in 1996, the Stone of Destiny is being brought back to its rightful home of Perth in 2024 after a period of 700 years.

Originally kept in Scone Abbey within the grounds of Scone Palace, just outside Perth, since 1996 the Stone of Destiny, on which Scottish kings were crowned for centuries, has been on display in Edinburgh Castle. Meanwhile, Scone Palace has had to make do with a replica outside the chapel on Moot Hill (pictured), where coronations once took place.

Construction is now well underway on the £26.5m restoration of Perth City Hall Museum where the Stone will be available to view from 2024 before visitors can see its historic home at Scone Palace.

Before that, the Stone will be briefly returned to Westminster Abbey in London when it will be used in the coronation of King Charles III. Look out for our special feature on the Stone of Destiny, Scone Palace, and the Perth City Hall Museum in the next issue of Scotland. www.culturepk.org.uk/museums-galleries/ city-hall-project; scone-palace.co.uk

8 Scotland

News & events

[ R E STAU RA N TS ]

THE SKYE’S NO LIMIT Edinbane Lodge, the reputable restaurant with rooms on the Isle of Skye, has been awarded Four AA Rosettes – the only restaurant on Skye to receive the accolade and one of just six restaurants to be awarded Four AA Rosettes across Scotland.

Run by chef patron Calum Montgomery, whose family bought the run-down hunting lodge in 2017 and set about restoring it, Edinbane has built up an excellent reputation for its food offering and rooms over the past few years. Calum sources produce from a community of family and friends, who, like him, are committed to making the most of the island’s crofts, seas, and artisan production.

Upon receiving the award, Calum said: “It means so much to bring this award to my native island home for the first time – and of course, to even be mentioned in the same category as some of the UK’s most renowned restaurants is such an honour.” edinbanelodge.com

[TOURISM]

NEVER MISS NESSIE [TRANSPORT]

TICKET TO RIDE

the beautiful scenery and abundant wildlife is very special. Of course, the webcams will also give Nessie fans another way of spotting our elusive and most popular resident!”

Tourism providers are also hoping the webcams will inspire people to visit the area for other reasons, too.

Chris Taylor, VisitScotland Regional Leadership Director, said: “By having the opportunity to see Loch Ness from so many different viewpoints, more potential visitors will be inspired to travel to this beautiful part of the Highlands.” visitinvernesslochness.com/live-stream

© KENNY LAM/VISITSCOTLAND

Getting around Scotland without a car has just got a little easier thanks to a new timetable of affordable daily coach routes connecting Scottish cities.

FlixBus will now provide daily connections to and from Glasgow, Stirling, Perth, and Aberdeen through its partnership with Scotland’s largest independent bus company, McGill’s.

Tickets, which cost as little as £5.99 for a 3.5-hour journey, can be booked through the FlixBus app or the company’s website. flixbus.co.uk

New webcams located along the shores of Loch Ness mean that Nessie hunters can now keep an eye out for Nessie 365 days of the year, wherever they are.

Cameras are now located at five locations around the famous loch, including the Craigdarroch Hotel in Foyers and Drovers Lodge near Drumnadrochit.

Michael Golding, CEO at Visit Inverness Loch Ness, said: “We are delighted to be able to provide live footage of the beautiful Loch Ness every day of the year. For people all over the world to watch Loch Ness through the changing seasons and get a glimpse of

Scotland 9

News & events

EDITOR’S DIARY

Each issue, our editor gives a glimpse into the events and places that she is hoping to visit. This issue, as Burns Night approaches, she’s thinking of all things Rabbie Burns…

FIVE OF THE BEST… PLACES TO CELEBRATE ROBERT BURNS

1

The Globe Inn and Dumfries Dumfries is a must for any Burns fan – it’s where the national bard spent his later years and where his mausoleum can be visited. Burns was known to like a drink and The Globe Inn, just off Dumfries’ high street, was his favourite watering hole. Now run by the owners of nearby Annandale Distillery, the fully refurbished pub offers sevencourse tasting menus around the very table that Burns once sat down to dine at. If you’d like to extend your visit, stay the night at the town’s Cairndale Hotel & Leisure Club, which offers cosy rooms, plus a serene spa. distillerytours.scot/ venues/the-globe-bar; cairndalehotel.co.uk

2

Ellisland Museum & Farm Built in 1788 by Robert Burns for his young wife Jean Armour and their family, at this “modest mansion” Robert Burns wrote prolifically, including two of his most famous works: Auld Lang Syne and Tam O’ Shanter. Burns called the property “the poet’s choice” of the three farms offered to him by his landlord Patrick Miller. You can step inside his study, which has a view of the River Nith, or follow in his footsteps with a walk along some of the farm’s woodland paths. ellislandfarm.co.uk

4

The Falls of Bruar, Perthshire When Burns visited the Falls of Bruar, near Pitlochry, in 1787 he was enamoured by the natural beauty of the scene but felt it could be enhanced with the planting of some trees. He wrote a poem to the Duke of Atholl to that effect: The Humble Petition of Bruar Water, and though it took some time for the Duke to acquiesce, after Burns’ death, he eventually planted trees around the falls and laid out bridges and pathways in his memory. houseofbruar.com/the-falls-of-bruar

5

Burns in Edinburgh Burns lived in the capital, off the Royal Mile, for a while, and frequented the city’s many howffs. The huge neo-Greco-style Burns Monument, at the foot of Calton Hill, looks out over Arthur’s seat, and pays homage to his time here. It originally contained a marble statue of Burns, which is now in the Scottish National Portrait Gallery. Other Burns items can be found in The Writer’s Museum. nationalgalleries.org/visit/scottish-nationalportrait-gallery; edinburghmuseums.org.uk/ venue/writers-museum

[HOTELS]

INVERLOCHY EXPANDS

Inverlochy Castle, a stunning Highlands country house hotel, has announced ambitious renovation plans, which will see it add an extra eight bedrooms, bringing its full capacity to 35 bedrooms.

The five-star 19th-century castle in the foothills of Ben Nevis, which stands within a 500-acre estate, is renovating its listed stables and walled garden.

Norbert Lieder, managing director of Inverlochy Castle Management International, said: “The Scottish Highlands’ exceptional beauty and landscapes means there is extremely high demand for five-star accommodation within the region.

The expansion designs pay homage to this historic landscape.”

The new rooms will be ready from April 2023 and the expansion follows the 2022 launch of the hotel’s new interactive dining experience, Seasgair by Michel Roux Jr. From the Gaelic for ‘snug, comfortable, and warm’, Seasgair sees dishes using ‘hyperlocal’ ingredients served at the table as they would have been during 19th-century cook Mary Shaw’s time. inverlochycastlehotel.com

Robert Burns Birthplace Museum, Alloway For insight into Burns’ earlier life, you can’t miss Alloway, the Ayrshire village where he was born. This dual attraction, encompasses the humble cottage where he spent his early years, and an excellent museum a short walk away along Poet’s Path, which houses over 5,000 Burns artefacts. It’s the best way to get a sense of who the writer was and what drove him. Afterwards, visit the places that inspired Tam O’ Shanter – the Alloway Auld Kirk (where you can see his father’s headstone), and the Brig o’ Doon. nts.org.uk/visit/places/robertburns-birthplace-museum

10 Scotland

© DAVID MOSES

3

JOURNAL

| Window into Scotland

Notes from the Isles

A pilgrimage meets an unexpected hurdle, a family trip stirs memories, and a very welcome guest comes to stay Words by KATE FRANCIS

A

ABOVE: Kate and Cronie, her faithful Border Terrier TOP RIGHT: The Pictish hill fort at Craig Phadrig

12 Scotland

friend of my daughter Mary recently organised a pilgrimage from Craig Phadraig, above Inverness, to Iona, and Mary decided to join the expedition.

The route retraced the steps of St Columba and his 12 disciples (in the opposite direction) who came to Inverness from the Isle of Iona around AD565 to try and convert the Pictish King Bridei and his followers to Christianity.

As they neared their destination, Columba and his disciples had to ford the River Ness where it flows into Loch Ness. According to Columba’s biographer, St Adamnan, Nessie emerged from the water with a mighty roar and attacked one of the monks as he swam across the river. Columba raised his hand, made the sign of the cross and ordered the monster to go no further...it meekly obeyed him and slunk back into the water.

Craig Phadrig is the hill on which King Bridei had his castle, and is presumably where Columba began his converting. All that’s left of the vitrified fort today is a stony hollow covered in grass and abundant with beautiful bluebells and wildflowers, approached by a path that zigzags up through trees.

The pilgrims assembled here on a Sunday morning, and I couldn’t resist skipping church to see them off.

It was a diverse group of at least three generations, from teenage to mid 70s, and I needn’t have felt guilty about not

going to church. We all sang a hymn; there was a bible reading, some prayers, and a brief and moving sermon from the leader. Then a ‘Druid’ in a robe marched round anointing everyone with holy water, splashed with a birch twig dunked into a dog’s drinking bowl.

The group then set off through the drizzle, serenaded by two kilted pipers: a van carrying their camping regalia to each pre-planned stop. Some rode Highland ponies and one woman claimed to have walked barefoot. Their numbers fluctuated from about 20 to 15.

The first five days along the Great Glen went smoothly, I am told, with campsite camaraderie and wayside inns, but when they reached Glen Kinglass, disaster struck. All through one night everybody, except lucky Mary and one other, was violently and continually sick, struck down by norovirus.

It was as if a medieval plague had swept through the camp, but after a day lying listlessly around the field, they finally made it to Oban, from where they sailed to Mull and, two days later, made the crossing to Iona, where they paid homage to St Columba and swam in a turquoise sea.

I have just returned from our Outer Hebridean retreat, where I joined my youngest daughter Henrietta and her family, with some of their friends. We were 12 in all, and we ate like royalty: feast after delicious feast, none of them planned, provided, or cooked by me. I didn’t lift a finger domestically, except to take the kitchen waste down to the shore every morning and night, to tip the bucket into the water for the gulls. They always saw me coming and swooped