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HISTORY HERITAGE TRAVEL CULTURE
Fall for the
Lake District
Romantic landscapes & quaint villages
KING OF THE CASTLES
WIN a week on
Edward I’s mighty legacy
the beautiful Yorkshire coast
HIGH FLIERS
Behind the scenes with the Red Arrows
On the
Titanic trail
VICTORIAN SCANDAL
Love and betrayal in the Cotswolds
SEPT/OCT 2022 £4.95
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EDITOR'S LETTER Coastal views, healthful air and magnificent mountains: the Victorians knew what they liked from their holidays, and the destinations featured this issue were firm favourites. The genteel towns of Devon’s south coast (The English Riviera, p14) ooze the charm of a bygone era, and the beauty of the Lake District (Romancing the Lakes, p64) drew Victorian city-dwellers in droves. The best historic houses are full of the stories of their former occupants. Polesden Lacey in Surrey was once home to a rags-to-riches society hostess (Mrs Greville’s Treasures, p24); while Kelmscott Manor in the Cotswolds, owned by the designer William Morris, played host to a scandalous love triangle (Life’s rich tapestry, p48). We also profile castle-builder extraordinaire Edward I (The Warrior King, p33), revisit the Titanic 110 years after its sinking (Belfast’s Titanic legacy, p75) and follow Paddington Bear’s journey, from darkest Peru to tea with the Queen (Paws for thought, p56). Enjoy the issue!
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St Michael’s Mount
CONTENTS
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VOLUME 90 ISSUE 5
PHOTOS: © MKGOLDER/ISTOCK/ SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES LONDON (KELMSCOTT MANOR)/TOURISM IRELAND/CHRIS HILL
FEATURES 14
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FIND YOUR
BRITAIN 6
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE
HISTORY HERITAGE TRAVEL CULTURE
Fall for the
Lake District
Romantic landscapes & quaint villages
KING OF THE CASTLES
WIN
a week on the beautiful Yorkshire coast
Edward I’s mighty legacy
HIGH FLIERS
Behind the scenes with the Red Arrows
On the
Titanic trail
VICTORIAN SCANDAL
Love and betrayal in the Cotswolds
SEPT/OCT 2022 £4.95
Discover the story of the doomed ship in Belfast
OFC BRI_SeptOctFINALV2.indd 2
www.britain-magazine.com
27/07/2022 12:30
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Cover image: An autumnal view of the Lake District National Park © Ed Rhodes/Robert Harding
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THE ENGLISH RIVIERA Dotted with quaint little towns, this stunning stretch of South Devon coastline comes into its own once the summer crowds have departed
MRS GREVILLE’S TREASURES One of the most celebrated hostesses of the Edwardian era, Margaret Greville amassed many collectibles at her Surrey manor, Polesden Lacey
THE WARRIOR KING From Flower of Chivalry to Hammer of the Scots, Edward I has had more nicknames than any other monarch, but how did he measure up to them?
THE REAL JAMES HERRIOT The All Creatures Great and Small author and vet tended to animals on the Yorkshire Dales, but how much truth was there in his much-loved tales?
LIFE’S RICH TAPESTRY As Kelmscott Manor reopens after a three-year renovation, we explore the stories and scandals behind William Morris’s idyllic Cotswold retreat
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FEATURES 56 61
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LETTERS
9
THE BULLETIN
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COMPETITION
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CITY GUIDE: BELFAST
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A DAY WITH...
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THE GREAT BRITISH QUIZ
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PAWS FOR THOUGHT Having arrived in London with just the bear necessities, Paddington has been a popular figure for 64 years – what’s the key to his lasting success?
ST IVES Artists have long been drawn to this breathtaking harbour town in West Cornwall
ROMANCING THE LAKES Follow a literary trail around Windermere and Grasmere, jewels in the crown of the magnificent Lake District
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Egyptian exhibitions, pretty handmade pottery and water voles Win a seven-night getaway to Yorkshire Steeped in history, Northern Ireland’s capital now celebrates its maritime heritage
Test your knowledge of Britain’s tastiest pudding, pies and snacks in our new quiz
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IN THIS ISSUE SCOTLAND
LAKE DISTRICT p64
BELFAST p75
NORTHERN IRELAND
YORKSHIRE DALES p40
BRITAIN (ISSN 1757-9732) (USPS 004-335) is published bi-monthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK Distributed in the US by NPS Media Group, 2 Enterprise Drive, Suite 420, Shelton, CT 06484. Periodicals postage paid at Shelton, CT and other mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BRITAIN, PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518 Publications Mail Agreement Number 41599077, 1415 Janette Ave, Windsor, ON N8X 1Z1. Canadian GST Registered Number 834045627 RT0001 © The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd., 2022. All rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers The information contained in BRITAIN has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by contributors to BRITAIN are not necessarily those of the publisher or VisitBritain.
EIRE ENGLAND WA L E S
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4 BRITAIN
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THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE
YOUR LETTERS
Write to us with your thoughts on the magazine and memories of Britain
I loved your recent article about King Arthur’s Cornwall [Vol 90 Issue 4] as it reminded me of many happy holidays from my childhood. We went every year and I loved clambering over the ruins of Tintagel and visiting the mystical St Nectan’s waterfall, when not exploring the caves and rock pools of the area’s wonderful beaches. A magical place indeed! Stephen Morrissey, Montreal, Canada
Our star letter wins a copy of Gilded City, a fascinating journey through London’s medieval and early modern architecture (Unicorn, £25).
QUEEN VICTORIA RECONSIDERED A recent documentary about King George III opined (via current medical experts) that he likely suffered from bipolar disorder, while not taking into account that Queen Victoria’s famous temper tantrums were akin to that. She was never meant to be Queen and wasn’t in line for the throne but her uncle had no heirs, so she was thrust into the job unexpectedly. I’d guess that the burden of being Queen at a very young age was overwhelming for her at times – and she had nine children! She could also have had some long-term after-effects: gynaecology and mental healthcare wasn’t as sophisticated as they are today, so she may have been suffering with undiagnosed disorders. Pamela Towart, via Facebook
BIG BEN’S BACK
LOVE FOR LANCASHIRE
Thank you so much for your insightful article The Time Machine [Vol 90 Issue 4]. Every summer holiday, each of my three children pick a topic to learn more about during their time away from school. This year my middle daughter, Erin, chose Big Ben, after hearing her classmates discussing the famous tower. Your article covered pretty much everything we needed to know, and we all learnt lots of new facts about the infamous bell. A particular favourite was that the tower once contained a prison cell for unruly MPs! We’re planning a trip to London soon to see (and hear) the newly restored clock tower in all its glory. Nicola Richardson, East Sussex, UK
I was very glad to see that the map in the Lancashire article [Vol 90 Issue 3] included my hometown of Southport. When I was born there it was in Lancashire, but has now been redrawn into Merseyside. However, those of us born there, way back then, still think of ourselves as Lancastrians! It was so nice to see an article about my old stomping grounds and places I’ve visited over the years when back seeing family. One of my oldest memories from my first trip back was seeing Blackpool Tower from the top of the rollercoaster at Pleasureland in Southport. On my last trip home, I went to Lancaster for the first time and learned about the Pendle Witches on a tour of the castle and prison. Somewhere I haven’t been is Helmshore Textile Museum or Queen Street Mill near Burnley. There’s always somewhere else to add to the list of places to go. Denise Bridge, Ontario, Canada
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STAR LETTER MAGICAL CORNWALL
HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION
The
BULLETIN Egyptian mysteries, Roman ingenuity and a very British country-house escape
ANNIVERSARY
This year Hadrian’s Wall, Britain’s ancient Roman frontier in the north, celebrates its 1,900th birthday. Built at the request of Emperor Hadrian in 122 AD, it marked the border between Britain and unconquered Caledonia in the north and is the largest Roman archaeological feature in Britain, running a total of 73 miles from Wallsend in the east to Bowness-on-Solway in the west. To mark the momentous birthday of this
UNESCO World Heritage Site, a year-long festival is taking place, with a packed programme of events and activities. Whether you want to experience life as a Roman soldier, understand how and why the wall was built, or take part in a creative writing workshop, the 1900 Festival (until 23 December) has something for everyone. 1900.hadrianswallcountry.co.uk
PHOTO: © ALAN COPSON/AWL IMAGES
1,900 years later
HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION
SHOPPING
Hedgerow happy
P L AC E S TO S TAY
Rural retreat Just opened in Berkshire, The Retreat at Elcot Park is an exemplary country-house hotel. A winding drive leads to a fine red-brick manor house overlooking the rolling North Wessex Downs. The rooms have bags of rustic charm – William Morris wallpaper, comfy armchairs, canopied beds and antique prints set the tone. The standout is the Percy Shelley Suite, named after the Romantic poet, whose family moved here after he died in Italy. There are tennis courts, an infinity pool and a croquet lawn, as well as two excellent restaurants and a swish spa, but make time to explore the local area too – Highclere Castle of Downton Abbey fame, Newbury racecourse and the antiques shops of Hungerford are among the local draws. www.retreatelcotpark.com
The end of summer in Britain is, arguably, the most beautiful time of the whole season, with leaves on the cusp of autumn colour, woodland animals getting themselves ready for the winter, and the hedgerows bursting with berries just waiting to be made into a delicious pudding. British pottery brand Emma Bridgewater has encapsulated all of this in its new collection. Our pick is the pretty Hedgerow set (from £14), which features colourful rosehip and elderberry motifs on plates, jugs, teacups and more. www.emmabridgewater.co.uk
N AT U R E
Waterside wildlife
EXHIBITION
Egyptian intrigue In 1922, British archaeologist Howard Carter discovered the tomb of Tutankhamun in the Valley of the Kings: the first intact pharaoh’s tomb to be found. A century later, it’s still one of the most important archaeological discoveries of all time. Tutankhamun: Excavating the Archive (until 5 Feb 2023) at Oxford’s Bodleian Library uses photographs, letters and diaries to paint a vivid picture of the events. Continuing the theme, the British Museum’s Hieroglyphs: Unlocking Ancient Egypt (13 Oct until 19 Feb 2023) will celebrate 200 years since hieroglyphs were first deciphered after the discovery of the Rosetta Stone, expanding our understanding of human history by 3,000 years. visit.bodleian.ox.ac.uk; www.britishmuseum.org
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BRITAIN
PHOTOS: © TOM GREENLY/ASTRID TEMPLIER/TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM/ HARRY BURTON/WILL PRYCE
Water voles, an endangered species in Britain, are being reintroduced on the 725-acre Trentham Estate in Staffordshire as part of a UK-wide project to boost the vole population. More than 200 water voles have been released into Trentham Lake, which was designed by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown at the heart of the estate, in the hope that they will establish a self-sustaining population. To help them on their way, thousands of native marginal wildflowers and reeds have been planted, alongside meadows, feeder brooks and watercourses to create their perfect habitat. Look out for these fluffy creatures on your next visit. www.trentham.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com
OPENING
Palatial splendour Set between the two buildings of the Old Royal Naval College Famed for its opulent interiors, the studio-home Victorianfirst in Greenwich, London, the Queen’s House wasof England's artist andbuilding, former President the Royal Academy, Lord Leighton, classical built in theof17th-century by architect Inigo reopens October after an £8m Visitors to the I. Jones forinAnne of Denmark, as atransformation. gift from her husband, James house, London’syears Holland once again to to Fourinhundred later,Park, the will splendid royal be villaable is due experience rooms infollowing all their glory, including the famedwhich Arab reopen on the 11 October extensive renovations,
collection of art – including key works by Gainsborough and Hall, with floors tiles collected during travels. The Hogarth – and made originalfrom features, such as the TuliphisStaircase. renovation revealenough previously unseen historic including If that’s notwill reason to visit, it is likely to features, be the home Leighton’s Winter Studio,portrait while upcoming of the historic Armada of Queenexhibitions Elizabeth Iwill (pictured celebrate theofartist Holland ParkofCircle, his group of artist above), one the and mostthe iconic images any British monarch. friends collaborators. The and painting has beenwww.rbkc.gov.uk/museums the subject of intensive fundraising
have seen an overhaul to the galleries housing its famous
to save it for the nation since it was put up for sale. With the
HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION
READING CORNER Take inspiration for your British adventures from these great reads The BBC Puzzle Book by Ian Smith & Dr Gareth Moore (£14.99, Frances Lincoln). Celebrate 100 years of this British Institution by testing your knowledge of its most famous programmes.
In the 18th century, custards were served in delicate glasses, alongside jellies and syllabubs
RECIPE
Custard Creams An insight into the Great British pudding in its various forms, Pride and Pudding by Regula Ysewijn (Murdoch Books, £30) contains over 80 recipes, using documents dating back to the 14th century. From well-known desserts like bread-and-butter pudding to the more obscure, but equally delicious snake fritters, this is a cookbook for history buffs and foodies alike.
I n g re d i e n t s : 4 egg yolks
20 g (3/4 oz) raw sugar
1 teaspoon orange flower water
1 cinnamon stick
425 ml (15 fl oz) thick (double) cream
Method: Whisk the egg yolks with the orange flower water in a large bowl. In a medium saucepan, bring the cream, sugar and cinnamon to a simmer. Remove the cinnamon stick. Pour a little of the hot cream mixture into the egg yolks and whisk thoroughly. Continue to add the hot cream in batches, whisking constantly, until you get a smooth custard. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan, put it over low heat and stir with a spatula until just thickened, ensuring the eggs don’t scramble. Remove from the heat and allow to cool in the saucepan until the custard is cold enough to scoop into glasses or teacups. Dust some mace or nutmeg on the custards before serving.
A l m o n d c u s t a rd To make this into an almond custard, omit the orange flower water and whisk the egg yolks. Crush 50g (1¾ oz) blanched almonds with 1 teaspoon of rosewater using a mortar and pestle and mix with the cream before bringing it to a simmer with the sugar and cinnamon. Remove from the heat, strain and mix the hot cream with the eggs as above. For a stronger marzipan flavour, add a few blanched apricot kernels to the mix.
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BRITAIN
Devil-Land: England Under Siege, 1588-1688 by Clare Jackson (£35, Allen Lane). The winner of the Wolfson History prize explores Britain’s turbulent century under Stuart rule. Homecoming: The Scottish Years of Mary, Queen of Scots by Rosemary Goring (£22, Birlinn). The dramatic story of the ill-fated queen’s lichildhood years in her homeland. Queen of the Savoy: The extraordinary Life of Helen D’Oyly Carte by Elisabeth Kehoe (£25, Unicorn). A lively account of the life of the Victorian businesswoman and founder of the Gilbert & Sullivan franchise. The Flower of all Cities by Robert Wynn Jones (10.99, Amberley Publishing). An exciting account of London’s early history, from the Romans to the Stuarts.
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stately homes
Treasures Mrs Greville’s
Margaret Greville rose from humble origins to become one of the most celebrated hostesses of the Edwardian era, amassing an extraordinary collection of treasures at her Surrey retreat, Polesden Lacey WORDS SANDRA LAWRENCE
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PHOTO: © DAVID CHAPMAN/AL AMY
english riviera
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BRITAIN
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english riviera
The
English Riviera This stunning stretch of South Devon coastline, dotted with quaint little towns, comes into its own once the summer crowds have departed WORDS CLARE STRONG
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