Issuu

IRELAND’S BEST VOLUME 2

C E LE BR ATI NG TH E E M E R A L D I S L E

THE WORLD’S BEST SERIES

BEST PLACES TO STAY

GAME OF THRONES • CASTLES & COUNTRY HOUSES • 125 PLACES TO VISIT

GAME OF THRONES COUNTRY ICONIC WHISKEY DISTILLERIES

True Irish spirit

CASTLES & COUNTRY HOUSES The grand and the ancient

125 Must-visit destinations

SANDY BEACHES & MOUNTAIN TREKS

Great outdoor adventures

OVER LAND & SEA

Memorable tours and cruises

GREAT CRAIC, GOOD GUINNESS A guide to the country’s best bars 001-Cover-IB2.indd 1

11/01/2019 16:59

Forth House, 28 Rutland Square, Edinburgh, EH1 2BW, UK

WHO'S WHO EDITORIAL Editor & publishing manager Christopher Coates Contributing editor Rebecca Sterritt Sub editor Sam Coyne Deputy editor Phoebe Calver DESIGN Creative director Paul Beevis Art editor Tim A’Court Designer Mandy Farnell PRODUCTION Production manager Anita Johnson

MARKETING Circulation & marketing director Richard Drake COMMERCIAL Commercial director James Houlder Commercial manager, International Joanne Robertson Commercial manager, Scotland & Europe Rob Crane Commercial manager, The Americas James Shepherd PUBLISHER Managing director Damian Riley-Smith Publishing manager Anthony Denny Office manager Stephanie Baker

FINANCE Finance director Tony Nutbrown Finance assistant Louise McDonald

NEWSAGENT COPIES ISSN 2398-5429 Distributed by Seymour NEWSAGENT COPIES USA & CANADA ISSN 1446-7648 Distributed in the US by Circulation Specialists, LLC. 2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton, CT 06484 Periodicals postage paid at Shelton, CT and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: PO Box 37515, Boone, IA 50037-0515 Distributed by CMG, LLC in North America Copyright © Paragraph Publishing 2018 Printed in England by Wyndeham Grange, Brighton Ireland's Best is a member of the Independent Press Standards Organisation (IPSO) and adheres to its Editors’ Code of Practice. If you would like to make a complaint about editorial content in the magazine, or any related publications including the digital edition and the website, please email editor@paragraph.co.uk or write to us at the address below. If you are not satisfied with our response, you may appeal to IPSO at www.ipso.co.uk

The publishers assume no responsibility for any effects from errors or omissions. All material published in Ireland's Best is copyright and reproduction is forbidden without the prior permission of the publishers. HEAD OFFICE 6 Woolgate Court, St Benedicts Street, Norwich, Norfolk, NR2 4AP, UK +44 (0) 1603 633 808 editorial@paragraph.co.uk www.paragraph.co.uk Cover image: © Patryk Kosmider, Dreamstime.com

EDITOR'S WORD It is my great pleasure to welcome you to Ireland's Best, the bookazine that celebrates this most exceptional island. Over the past year, the Ireland’s Best team has ventured in search of Ireland’s most breathtaking scenery, intriguing history, spectacular castles, exciting visitor attractions and prominent personalities. On the following pages, we have distilled down information on the fascinating history and myriad of attractions found across the length and breadth of Ireland into a guide that I hope will inspire you to set off on your own adventure around the Emerald Isle. Together we will take a whistle-stop tour of Ireland's regions: Leinster, Munster, Connacht, and Ulster. These short guides aim to give you a taste of what these expansive areas have to offer, from muscular mountains to captivating caves, meandering rivers and dramatic cliffs. They also serve to deliver some insight into each province's role in Ireland's fascinating (and at times tumultuous) history, while also sharing some of the romantic folk tales for which the island is famous. After all, Ireland is the home to a folk known the world over to posess the 'gift of the gab'. We have also compiled profiles on some of Ireland’s very best visitor attractions, castles, country houses, distilleries, tours and cruises, beaches and mountain walks, bars and beautiful places to stay. Hopefully, these will help you plan your next vacation, weekend away or day out with the family. With a vast landmass and a history stretching back millennia, Ireland’s Best can only offer a snapshot of what this magical island has to offer; please do take it with you as you travel and unlock the endless secrets of this spectacular isle. May your own journey around Ireland be everything you hoped for and more.

CHRISTOPHER COATES EDITOR

003_EditorsWord_IB2.indd 3

17/01/2019 14:51

NORTHERN IRELAND

Londonderry

LONDONDERRY

ANTRIM

DONEGAL

ULSTER Belfast

TYRONE

FERMANAGH

DOWN

Sligo

ARMAGH

MONAGHAN

SLIGO

LEITRIM CAVAN LOUTH

MAYO

CONNACHT

ROSCOMMON LONGFORD

MEATH

IRELAND GALWAY

Galway

WESTMEATH

LEINSTER

DUBLIN

Dublin

O F F A LY KILDARE

WICKLOW

LAOIS CLARE

CARLOW TIPPERARY

Limerick

Kilkenny KILKENNY

LIMERICK

Tipperary

WEXFORD

MUNSTER WATERFORD

KERRY CORK

Cork

004-005_Contents_IB2.indd 4

17/01/2019 17:01

CONTENTS

004-005_Contents_IB2.indd 5

Irelandâ€™s Provinces

Leinster

Munster

Connacht

Ulster

Irelandâ€™s Best

Locator Map

20 Best Visitor Attractions

20 Best Castles & Country Houses

10 Best Distilleries

10 Best Tours & Cruises

20 Best Beaches & Mountain Walks

104

10 Best Irish Bars

110

10 Best Places to Stay

17/01/2019 16:50

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

006-016_RFLeinster_IB2.indd 6

17/01/2019 09:21

REGIONAL FOCUS Leinster

LEINSTER

Uncovering the secrets of Dublin & Ireland’s Ancient East Area: 19,798km2 Counties: 12 Population: 2.6 million Largest towns/cities: Bray, Drogheda, Dublin, Dundalk, Swords Rivers: Barrow, Boyne, Liffey, Shannon Highest point: Lugnaquilla Mountain, 925m

IRELAND’S BEST

006-016_RFLeinster_IB2.indd 7

17/01/2019 09:21

Situated in the east of Ireland, Leinster is the second largest of Ireland’s four provinces and the most populated, with over 2.6 million people living within its 12 counties. Leinster comprises the counties of Carlow, Dublin, Kildare, Kilkenny, Laois, Longford, Louth, Meath, Offaly, Westmeath, Wexford and Wicklow, with County Dublin, of course, containing Ireland’s capital city. Following the 2016 census, the population of the capital’s urban area reached almost 1.2 million, while Greater Dublin (including the counties of Dublin, Kildare, Meath and Wicklow) exceeded 1.9 million. The sprawling city contributes a vast urban area to the province of Leinster. Its location at the mouth of the River Liffey on the east coast is an attractive base for natives and visitors alike who seek employment opportunities, access to local attractions, and proximity to mainland Europe for travel or business connections. Over the centuries, Dublin and the surrounding area have encountered many incursions and invasions, all of which have influenced the architecture, culture and traditions that are so celebrated in Leinster, and indeed all over Ireland. Viking and Norman invasions between the 9th and 12th centuries helped establish Dublin as an important city for trade. This resulted in rapid expansion and, by the 17th century, Dublin was considered one of Europe’s most important cities. The city’s architecture is a reminder of medieval, Georgian and Neolithic influences in an area of Ireland that flourished until the 19th century, which brought with it a period of political and economic decline. Dublin suffered as a result of the events of the 1916 Easter Rising, Irish War of Independence and the Irish Civil War, as well as the 30-year period of conflict in Northern Ireland known as ‘The Troubles’. Today, the bustling city thrives again as a centre of culture and arts renowned for its many popular attractions and tourist hotspots. With cobbled alleys, vibrant Georgian squares and Viking remains, Dublin truly captures the imagination of everyone who visits. Step back in time with literary landmarks including the James Joyce Centre and Trinity College, alma mater to many of Ireland’s famous writers and poets, both past and present. Many museums and art galleries chronical the city’s colourful past while the streets buzz with trendy cafés and traditional bars bubbling with energy and excitement. Cosmopolitan vibes are enhanced by street art and entertainment, while sporting fans are welcomed to world-class venues hosting international and interprovincial competitions that draw supporters from across the globe. Visit the home of some of

PREVIOUS PAGE: Ha`penny Bridge in Dublin THIS PAGE: View from Mount Leinster on the border between counties Carlow and Wexford

IRELAND’S BEST

006-016_RFLeinster_IB2.indd 8

17/01/2019 09:21

REGIONAL FOCUS Leinster

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

006-016_RFLeinster_IB2.indd 9

17/01/2019 09:21

the world’s most famous drinks brands at the Guinness Storehouse and the Jameson Distillery, or visit nearby coastal towns and picturesque fishing villages for a day of kite surfing at the beach. Dublin offers a perfect mix of adventure and relaxation, making it a top destination for all the family. Dublin and its environs are worth exploring at your leisure, but just a short drive from the city into the surrounding Leinster counties offers Neolithic monuments, monastic sites and panoramic views of the Wicklow Mountains, all equally as deserving of some leisure time. The province of Leinster and the western province of Connacht are divided by the River Shannon, Ireland’s longest river. Leinster is framed by the Shannon to the west and the Irish Sea on the east coast, marking out a region known as Ireland’s Ancient East. Ireland is steeped in myth and legend, and the Ancient East is renowned for its magical and mystical past, which is kept alive by endless stories that visitors will encounter while uncovering the secrets of the Emerald Isle. The Ancient East dates back 5,000 years and these secrets lie around every corner. While journeying around lush countryside and through idyllic towns and villages, castles and cairns are not an uncommon sight, and it is these ancient structures that keep the history alive to this day. Each castle turret, palatial mansion and prehistoric monument has a story to tell, and Ireland is not short of a storyteller to recount the tales of triumph

THESE PAGES: Dublin's famous Temple Bar area and the Guinness Storehouse

IRELAND’S BEST

006-016_RFLeinster_IB2.indd 10

17/01/2019 09:21

REGIONAL FOCUS Leinster

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

006-016_RFLeinster_IB2.indd 11

17/01/2019 09:21

THESE PAGES FROM TOP: Trim Castle on the River Boyne and the medieval town of Kilkenny

and tragedy that surround these intriguing historic structures. From Viking invaders and Norman knights to high kings and monks, the Ancient East has encountered many historical twists and turns, and it is the locals who hold the key to unlocking the legends. Ask anyone along the way who knows the area and they will delight in telling tales rich in history and magic, with a little embellishment thrown in for good measure! But that, of course, is all part of the fun. Many fabled figures are recognised and celebrated in these stories, including characters like Cú Chulainn, Cormac Mac Airt, and St Patrick. Considered Ireland’s greatest hero, Cú Chulainn started life as a boy named Setanta who left home to join the king’s fearsome Red Branch Knights. He made for the king’s court with only his cherished hurling stick and ball for company. Unfortunately for poor Setanta, things didn’t get off to the best start when he was attacked by a mighty wolfhound during a feast hosted by the king’s blacksmith, Culann. In self-defence, Setanta forced his hurling ball down the throat of the dog, killing it; but guilt got the better of him, and Setanta offered to take the dog’s place until a replacement was trained. From that day on, he was named Cú Chulainn, ‘the hound of Culann’ and went on to become one of Ireland’s most celebrated heroes.

Cormac Mac Airt, also known as the Wise King, was considered a decent and just king who ruled from the Hill of Tara in County Meath for 40 years. Cormac grew up without any knowledge of his royal bloodline until his father was slain in battle by his rival, Lugaid. When Cormac learned of his father’s fate, he journeyed to Tara where his wisdom won him his rightful place as king and he rebuilt fallen ramparts of Tara. Under his leadership, the land and the people of his kingdom flourished. Probably the most popular figure from Irish history is Ireland’s patron saint, St Patrick. While he has links with many parts of the island, St Patrick also made his mark in the east when he angered High King Laoire. As Celtic Druids celebrated their feast day in AD433 in County Meath, St Patrick planned to ignite the flames of Christianity on the Hill of Slane and, as the flames grew higher and smoke engulfed the area, St Patrick soon found himself in front of the furious king. However, so impressed was the leader with the saint’s Christian beliefs and values, that he allowed him to freely preach his faith throughout Ireland. Like anywhere with a colourful past, there are also the sinister tales of tragic deaths and murderous clans that leave behind characters of a more spooky nature. Castles, turrets and towers pop up all over Leinster and the Ancient East, and many believe that ghostly

IRELAND’S BEST

006-016_RFLeinster_IB2.indd 12

17/01/2019 09:31

REGIONAL FOCUS Leinster

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

006-016_RFLeinster_IB2.indd 13

17/01/2019 09:31

former residents still wander their grounds to this day. The druidic site of Leap Castle in County Offaly is one such example of a structure with a brutal history. Built by the O’Carroll clan in the early 1500s, the castle’s past involves gruesome murders, massacres and even torture. The ‘Red Lady’ wanders the corridors clutching a dagger used to take her own life, while a long-lost priest still roams the Bloody Chapel where he was slaughtered by his own brother. Discover similar tales at Loftus Hall in County Wexford, where a large hole was left in the ceiling after a guest flew through it in a fit of rage when questioned about his cloven hoof. Castle Roche in County Louth is the setting for the untimely death of Lady Rohesia de Verdun’s new husband when she pushed him from their bridal chamber window on the night of their wedding; it is said his ghost still walks the ruins, wondering what might have been. The ‘White Lady’ walks the grounds of Kilkenny Castle who many believe to be the spirit of Lady Margaret Butler, born in the castle in the 15th century and grandmother of Anne Boleyn. Paranormal activity has been investigated a number of times at Duckett’s Grove in County Carlow where a Banshee is believed to have haunted the family. It is thought that the Duckett’s Banshee is the spirit of a woman with whom William Duckett had an affair and that she tragically died after falling from her horse within the grounds of the house. Finally, Castle Durrow in County Laois, once home to barons and viscounts, was terrorised by a gang of thieves in the early 19th century. They were eventually captured and hanged, but managed to bury their treasure in surrounding forests, which their spirits still protect. Irish people protect the myth and legend of this magical island by keeping the stories alive; with so many Irish born with a natural ability for storytelling, there’s no need to rely on the Blarney Stone to obtain ‘the gift of the gab’. Blarney Castle is not the only place with a special stone where yet more tales of folklore are waiting to be unearthed. Hundreds of years ago, proposal stones were common all over Ireland, usually overlooking fairy forts and fairy trees. Lovers would visit these stones to wish for long and happy lives together, while asking fairies to watch over them. Eventually, it became tradition that a marriage proposal was not considered serious unless the lady was seated on one of these rocks. By the 18th and 19th centuries, many of these proposal stones were moved close to churches and monasteries to monitor the superstitious activity associated with the rocks. This deterred lovers from visiting the

IRELAND’S BEST

006-016_RFLeinster_IB2.indd 14

17/01/2019 11:58

REGIONAL FOCUS Leinster

THESE PAGES FROM TOP LEFT, CLOCKWISE: Proleek Dolmen; Knowth Passage Tomb; Sunset at Loftus Hall

stones and eventually they fell into disuse. The best remaining examples of proposal stones are those overlooking Carlingford Lough in County Louth, although it is believed these were brought from nearby fairy glens and forts. The idyllic location is once again a popular marriage proposal spot. County Wicklow is the setting for a group of ancient stones thought to be as old as the Egyptian Pyramids, similar in style to those at Newgrange and Stonehenge. There is a single stone known as the Piper’s Stone which sits directly opposite a circle of stones referred to as the dancers. This ancient site of pagan worship is thought to be between 3,000 and 3,500 years old and local folklore says that a piper leading a group of revellers to dance on the Sabbath Day were all turned to stone for disrespecting this holy time. In the northern Leinster county of Louth lies another rock structure believed to have been constructed in 3000BC. Proleek Dolmen is the capstone of an ancient portal tomb that stands at a height of three metres and weighs around 35 tons. But how did it get there? With a Scottish giant apparently buried nearby, it could only have been carried on a giant’s shoulders!

IRELAND’S BEST

006-016_RFLeinster_IB2.indd 15

17/01/2019 09:21

THIS PAGE: The 120-metre high Spire of Dublin

With Leinster so famed for Neolithic structures such as Newgrange and Knowth and captivating monastic sites like Glendalough, it is no wonder there are hundreds of festivals and events to help visitors truly understand what this vibrant region has to offer. Experience Irish mythology by joining walking festivals and leprechaun hunts through County Louth’s beautiful landscapes in early spring; or, mark the arrival of the summer months at the Uisneach Festival of Fire in Westmeath for a rich revival of Ireland’s pre-Christian history.

Comedy and fun festivals in Waterford and Kilkenny offer vibrant street carnivals, live music and street performers, while arts festivals introduce visitors to world-class music, theatre and arts in stunning medieval venues. Ireland’s original boutique music and arts festival, Electric Picnic, is a rock and roll circus held in County Laois in September, while Wexford is the setting for one of the world’s leading opera festivals and has been gathering crowds since 1951. As the year draws to a close, spirits make their way

across the historic lands of County Meath at the annual Halloween Festival and visit Newgrange to mark the Winter Solstice with vibrant drumming circles, Celtic chanting and a sunset ceremony. To discover more about what this magical province has to offer, see the map on pages 54 and 55 for top places to visit, ways to get about and the best places to stay. With bustling cities, picturesque coastal villages and enchanting historic locations, the people of Leinster can’t wait to tell you their stories.

IRELAND’S BEST

006-016_RFLeinster_IB2.indd 16

17/01/2019 09:21

017-Tullamore-AD-IB2.indd 17

16/01/2019 11:13

MUNSTER

Discover the Province ‘by hook or by crook’ Area: 24,675km2 Counties: 6 Population: 1.2 million Largest towns/cities: Cork, Ennis, Limerick, Tralee, Waterford Rivers: Bandon, Blackwater, Lee, Shannon, Suir Highest point: Carrauntoohill, 1039m (Ireland’s highest peak)

IRELAND’S BEST

018-028_RFMunster_IB2.indd 18

17/01/2019 11:09

REGIONAL FOCUS Munster

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

018-028_RFMunster_IB2.indd 19

17/01/2019 11:09

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

018-028_RFMunster_IB2.indd 20

17/01/2019 11:10

REGIONAL FOCUS Munster The largest of Ireland's provinces, Munster, is located in the southwest of Ireland and is home to a population of around 1.2 million people. Munster’s six counties are Clare, Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Tipperary and Waterford, and its major urban areas are the cities of Cork, Limerick and Waterford. The counties of Cork and Kerry are two of Ireland’s largest and most famous counties thanks to their rich culture, spectacular scenery and friendly locals. The modern Irish word for province, ‘cúige’, derives from the Old Irish word ‘cóiced’, which literally translates as ‘fifths’. Ireland’s provinces can be traced back to medieval times when the island was divided into five ‘over-kingdoms’, each ruled over by a king. The five provinces that made up Ireland were Connacht, Ulaid (Ulster), Muman (Munster), Laigen Tuathgabair (North Leinster) and Laigen Desgabair (South Leinster), although some historians believe it was Munster, and not Leinster, that made up two of these ‘fifths’. In the early centuries, Munster was ruled by various dynasties and overlords, and Saint Patrick spent many years in the province during the 5th Century when he ordained priests and set up Christian churches. By the 9th

Century, natives had been joined by Norse Vikings who created many of the major towns in the region. It was in the 10th Century that Ireland’s most celebrated High King, Brian Boru, made his mark by becoming King of Ireland after ending the reign of the O’Neills who had ruled for over 600 years. In 1014, Brian Boru and his Munstermen ended Norse presence in Ireland by defeating them at the Battle of Clontarf, however, Brian was killed in battle. Munster was split into three kingdoms in the 1100s, represented by the three crowns on the Province’s flag, but was eventually further split into counties for administrative and judicial purposes. The Irish provinces have no official government function and exist for cultural and historical purposes. Munster is celebrated for its rich and varied culture that has taken influence from other countries, history and modern flavours from vibrant towns and cities. Old traditions have been handed down through generations and kept alive by locals and visitors alike through unique language, music, song and dance. The southwest of Ireland is a hugely popular tourist destination for those wanting a flavour of everything Ireland has to offer, and where

PREVIOUS PAGE: Views over Killarney National Park THESE PAGES FROM LEFT: The Rock of Cashel; the Ring of Kerry

IRELAND’S BEST

018-028_RFMunster_IB2.indd 21

17/01/2019 11:10

better to start your journey around the province than Ireland’s largest county? Cork natives are fiercely proud of Cork City and its surroundings, as the area boasts some of Ireland’s most famous and magical tourist attractions. Blarney Castle, situated just 8km from the city in the nearby town of Blarney, is home to the famous stone of eloquence that bestows ‘the gift of the gab’ to all who kiss it. Whiskey lovers are well catered for in the East Cork town of Midleton, where world-famous Jameson whiskey is made. Legend has it that it was here in Ireland that whiskey was invented, and the world’s largest pot still on display at the distillery is a reminder of the country’s long distilling history. Cork’s coastline is the setting for many picturesque seaside towns and fishing villages such as Ballycotten, Kinsale and Cobh. Ballycotten and Cobh share similar links with important events in maritime history; it was just off Ballycotten that the first passenger steam ship to cross the Atlantic, Sirius, was lost in 1837, and Cobh was the last port of call for the most famous shipwreck of all, the ill-fated RMS Titanic. The brightly coloured town of Cobh dominates Cork Harbour, the second largest natural harbour in the world, and is overlooked by the magnificent neo-Gothic structure of St Colman’s Cathedral. Once known as Queenstown, Cobh tells the story of the Queenstown passengers who boarded the Titanic as well as that of Annie Moore, the first emigrant to be processed at Ellis Island. The seaside town of Kinsale is often referred to as the ‘Gourmet Capital of Ireland’ on account of its many award-winning restaurants offering fresh seafood from the area. Cork City is a unique blend of contemporary elegance and old-world charm. Previously named European Capital of Culture, Cork proudly promotes its history and traditions, but the ever-evolving city is becoming increasingly stylish and sophisticated. Shoppers, families, thrill-seekers, and partygoers are all catered for in this lively and welcoming city. Small boutiques, galleries, charming pubs and gourmet food stores are tucked away in quaint, narrow streets and laneways, while a number of parks offer open spaces to enjoy family picnics in the summer sun. Cork’s edgy cultural scene is showcased year-round with a number of festivals dedicated to the best of film, music and literature. Cork Midsummer Festival runs for two weeks every year in June and is Ireland’s leading arts festival, offering a taste of ground-breaking work by local and international artists across a variety of art forms. The festival transforms the city and offers a programme of events incorporating theatre, dance, music, opera, and street arts.

IRELAND’S BEST

018-028_RFMunster_IB2.indd 22

17/01/2019 11:10

REGIONAL FOCUS Munster

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

018-028_RFMunster_IB2.indd 23

23 17/01/2019 11:10

PREVIOUS PAGE: Fenit Lighthouse, Tralee Bay THESE PAGES FROM TOP: River Lee running through Cork City; view from Dingle Peninsula

This popular coastal city is a favourite among holidaymakers thanks to its stunning location. Surrounded by water, the area offers up a host of activities including harbour cruises, whale watching, sailing and kayaking. If taking to the waters isn’t your thing, enjoy the views from the many waterfront cafés and bars, or relax with a beauty treatment at one of the city’s hotel spas. Having explored the delights of Cork by day, treat yourself after dark to dinner in an award-winning restaurant followed by a traditional music session, a night at the theatre or take a chance on a greyhound or two at Curraheen Park Stadium. Ireland’s rugged and complex landscape is often what most intrigues those who visit the island. Magical locations arouse the curiosity of tourists, and locals delight in keeping the mystery and legends of the coastline, mountains and moorlands alive. Some of Ireland’s most famous and visited sites are within the Munster counties of Cork and Kerry, where people are often drawn to ports, bays, inlets and harbours along the coast to enjoy a host of water sports, fishing and sailing. Find examples of Megalithic standing stones and medieval castles on the islands off the west coast, which are teeming with wildlife including seabirds, whales, turtles and sharks. Mizen Head Signal Station marks Ireland’s most southwesterly point and is famed for its

dramatic scenery. The signal station, now a museum, kept seafarers safe as they navigated these treacherous waters and visitors can make their way to the station by following a dramatic path leading down 99 steps and across an impressive footbridge. Moving further West into County Kerry takes us to the beautiful town of Killarney. Nestled in a mountain valley on the shores of Lough Leane, Killarney is a charming town that blends quaint tradition with contemporary style as cobbled streets are lined with independent craft stores, galleries, traditional pubs and fine restaurants. Killarney is a popular base for tourists visiting the area thanks to its abundance of accommodation and access to the stunning landscape and historical wonders that surround it. The town is a gateway to Killarney National Park, the setting for famous landmarks including Muckross House, medieval Ross Castle and the ruins of abbeys and monasteries. Stunning lakes and cascading waterfalls are backed by Ireland’s highest mountain range, MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, making this the perfect location for hiking, climbing, sailing, fishing, canoeing, or even a spot of open-water swimming. Killarney also marks the beginning and end of the famous Ring of Kerry, a circular tourist route that traces the coastline of the Iveragh Peninsula taking in ocean, islands, mountains,

IRELAND’S BEST

018-028_RFMunster_IB2.indd 24

17/01/2019 11:10

REGIONAL FOCUS Munster

018-028_RFMunster_IB2.indd 25

17/01/2019 11:10

THESE PAGES FROM TOP, CLOCKWISE: Blarney Castle, home of the Blarney Stone; Cliffs of Moher; Poulnabrone Dolmen portal tomb in the Burren National Park

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

018-028_RFMunster_IB2.indd 26

17/01/2019 11:33

REGIONAL FOCUS Munster

towns and villages along the way. The route features many of Kerry’s top attractions and viewpoints offering panoramic views of Dingle Bay, the Blasket Islands and Kells Bay. Pass through Cahersiveen, where you will find the Old Barracks Heritage Centre, and visit the spectacular stone forts of Cahergal and Leacanabuaile before heading towards Waterville and southeast to the pretty village of Caherdaniel on the shores of Derrynane Bay. Over 120 hectares of parkland and 1.5km of coastline make up Derrynane National Historic Park, where the ancestral home of lawyer, politician and statesman Daniel O’Connell is situated. From here, visit Staigue Fort in Castlecove and the brightly-coloured village of Sneem, home to Kerry Geopark Project Centre where unique glaciations, ancient archaeological sites and tetrapod tracks are

represented in the centre. Stop by the Heritage Town of Kenmare, located at the point where the River Roughty opens into the estuary of the Kenmare River, and discover the largest stone circle in Southwest Ireland. Loop back to Killarney via the scenic points of Moll’s Gap and Ladies View to enjoy panoramic views over MacGillycuddy’s Reeks and the spectacular Lakes of Killarney. Moving North through Kerry, we encounter rolling countryside, sandy beaches, awardwinning golf courses and historic monuments, until reaching the county’s capital town of Tralee, famous for the annual Rose of Tralee International Festival, that has been running since 1959. Tralee boasts excellent facilities and is a firm favourite among families for its affordable accommodation, outdoor pursuits, public parks and all-weather attractions, such

as indoor water parks and activity centres. With North Kerry being the birthplace of many of Ireland’s most famous writers, artists and musicians, their work is celebrated at Siamsa Tíre, Ireland’s National Folk Theatre, which was founded in 1974 to reflect the country’s repertoire of music, dance and folklore. Munster’s other counties of Clare, Limerick, Tipperary and Waterford are not without their spectacular sights and places of interest. The coastal county of Clare is bursting with natural charm and draws thousands each year to its two main attractions, the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren National Park. The iconic and rugged Cliffs of Moher reach heights of 214m and offer panoramic views out over the Atlantic Ocean, while the barren limestone landscape of the Burren bursts into life in spring when it blossoms into a unique rock garden.

IRELAND’S BEST

018-028_RFMunster_IB2.indd 27

27 17/01/2019 11:33

THIS PAGE FROM TOP: King of Munster and eventually Ireland, Brian Boru; King John's Castle, Limerick

his right and the village of Crook to the left and, on account of this, he vowed to reach Waterford and the Norman lord Strongbow ‘by Hook or by Crook’! A trio of museums in the centre of Waterford city, Waterford Treasures, showcase the city’s colourful past but the city is also known for its craft beers and world-famous Waterford Crystal. The county has its own UNESCO Global Geopark, The Copper Coast, with 25km of cliffs, coves and sea stacks. Ancient copper mines once covered the area and visitors may just spot the Metal Man at Newtown Head, where a huge sailor perched on a pillar marks the entrance to Tramore Bay. To discover more about everything this spectacular province has to offer, see the map on pages 54 and 55 for top places to visit, ways to get about and the best places to stay. With quaint towns and villages, some of Ireland’s most famous scenic locations and intriguing historic monuments, it’s not hard to understand why Munster is a tourist hotspot.

The highlight of County Limerick has to be the city of the same name. Ireland’s third largest city is set at the mouth of the River Shannon and is a wonderful mix of past influences and modern rejuvenation. Highlights include the 13th-Century King John’s Castle, in the heart of medieval Limerick; the Cathedral of Saint Mary Blessed Virgin, founded in 1168; and Foynes Flying Boat and Maritime Museum, which documents the story of transatlantic passenger flight and the River Shannon’s maritime history. By contrast, Limerick has enjoyed a period of revitalisation in recent years with new art galleries and sleek five-star hotels, the restoration of one of Ireland’s best-known farmers’ markets, Milk Market, and redevelopment of the much-loved home of Munster Rugby, Thomond Park. Counties Tipperary and Waterford sneak into the region known as Ireland’s Ancient East (see Leinster), and once again offer rolling landscapes of mountains and lakes, ancient heritage sites, historic towns and villages, and miles of coastline in the case of Waterford. Tipperary’s hidden treasures include the Mitchelstown Caves, Lough Derg, the medieval village of Fethard and the famous Rock of Cashel, once the seat of the Kings of Munster with links to early Christianity. Founded in the 9th Century by Vikings, Waterford’s past is equally as rich carrying the title of Ireland’s oldest city. Common phrases were even born here; when King Henry II came sailing up the River Suir in 1171 to seek out the Norman lord Strongbow, he passed Hook Peninsula to

IRELAND’S BEST

018-028_RFMunster_IB2.indd 28

17/01/2019 11:28

029-Powerscourt-AD-IB2.indd 29

16/01/2019 11:13

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

030-040_RFConnacht_IB2.indd 30

17/01/2019 11:54

REGIONAL FOCUS Connacht

CONNACHT

Navigate Ireland’s oceans, lakes and rivers Area: 17,788km2 Counties: 5 Population: 551,000 Largest towns/cities: Ballina, Castlebar, Galway, Sligo, Tuam Rivers: Corrib, Moy, Shannon, Suck Highest point: Mweelrea, 814m

IRELAND’S BEST

030-040_RFConnacht_IB2.indd 31

17/01/2019 11:54

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

030-040_RFConnacht_IB2.indd 32

17/01/2019 11:54

REGIONAL FOCUS Connacht Thousands of tourists visit Ireland each year to sample the delights of the island’s scenery, folklore and hospitality. It is no surprise, therefore, that many flock to the coastline where there is so much to explore and the locals take pride in helping tourists unlock Ireland’s secrets. The province of Connacht is a popular choice for such adventures, with four out of its five counties spanning part of the famous Wild Atlantic Way on the west coast. Connacht is the smallest of Ireland’s four provinces and has a population of just over 500,000 people. Connacht’s five counties are Galway, Leitrim, Mayo, Roscommon and Sligo, and its major urban areas are Galway City, Sligo and Castlebar in County Mayo. Roscommon is the province’s only landlocked county, as the others all border the Atlantic Ocean to the west. Southern parts of the Province stretch as far as the Burren National Park while the River Shannon skirts the east. Like the rest of Ireland, Connacht’s storied past involves tales of High Kings and AngloNorman settlement. The name Connacht means ‘descendants of the Conn’, which refers to the medieval ruling dynasty of King Conn of the Hundred Battles. The 4th century apparently disrupted a long line of Connacht kings, when midland rulers based at Tara founded septs, or clans, in the province. From the 5th to the 12th century, all Connacht rulers

belonged to clans of two members of the Tara dynasty, Brion and Fiachra. The powerful figures of Turloch, O’Connor and Rory were all recognised as kings of Ireland, but it was Rory who became the vassal of Henry II during the Anglo-Normal settlement of the mid-12th century. Rory’s brother, Cathal Crovderg, ruled over Connacht until his death in 1224, and a few years later the province was granted to Norman baron Richard de Burgh by King Henry III. The de Burgh dynasty ruled until 1461, when the titles fell to the crown and the province was eventually split into shires in 1576. Connacht is considered the most Gaelic part of Ireland and of the four provinces is home to the greatest number of Irish-language speakers. With Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) areas in Galway and Mayo, it is no surprise that between five and 10 per cent of the Connacht population speaks Irish and many children are educated in Gaeltacht schools. This is valuable in helping to preserve the Irish traditions and culture that is so prevalent in this region. Connacht is well known for its rugged coastal landscape and the area relies heavily on tourism, as visitors come here to seek a getaway in a secluded corner of Ireland. The Wild Atlantic Way is celebrated for its hidden treasures, including white sandy beaches and offshore islands, perfect for a summer escape

PREVIOUS PAGE: The Claddagh in Galway City THESE PAGES FROM LEFT: Clew Bay, County Mayo; the town of Westport

IRELAND’S BEST

030-040_RFConnacht_IB2.indd 33

33 17/01/2019 11:54

030-040_RFConnacht_IB2.indd 34

17/01/2019 11:54

REGIONAL FOCUS Connacht

THESE PAGES: Views of Ireland's holy mountain, Croagh Patrick

or an action-packed holiday. After all, much of Sligo’s coastline is referred to as ‘Surf Coast’. But, if donning a wetsuit and braving the elements isn’t quite what you had in mind, the bright lights of the province’s capital city, Galway City, will provide all the warmth and shelter you need, and much more. Galway City is a vibrant and thriving urban area that, like many of Ireland’s towns and cities, is steeped in history and culture while oozing contemporary vibes. Galway has a reputation for artistic creativity and an infectious sense of fun and enjoyment that attracts people from all over the world. The flamboyant arts scene showcases the best in

music, dance, food and Bohemian Galway thanks to a full calendar of festivals including Galway International Arts Festival and the indulgent Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival. If you don’t happen to be in town for one of these events, there’s no need to worry, as every day has a carnival feel. The year-round party atmosphere is enhanced by the live music that pours out of brightly painted pubs, while buskers and performers line the streets to entertain tourists, shoppers and the city’s vast student community. While exploring the many traditional shops and pavement cafés of Galway’s quaint winding lanes, remnants of medieval town walls hint at

IRELAND’S BEST

030-040_RFConnacht_IB2.indd 35

35 17/01/2019 11:54

the city’s ancient past. Claddagh rings fill the windows of jewellery shops and Aran jumpers hang in souvenir stores as Galwegians are proud of their heritage and rich traditions. However, at the same time, the city is renowned for embracing diversity and promoting respect and understanding; hence the appropriate moniker, ‘City of Equals’. Beyond the bright lights, venture through wildest Ireland around the County Galway area of Connemara where the coastal town of Clifden, Carraroe’s Coral Beach and the old harbour village of Roundstone will offer stunning vistas and tasty local cuisine. Go beyond the shoreline with a short ferry crossing to the mythical Aran Islands, where sheer cliffs, iconic heritage sites and ancient fortresses will undoubtedly take your breath away. This cluster of three islands is located 48km off the Galway coast and all three are easy to navigate by bike or even on foot. Moving north along Ireland’s west coast we reach County Mayo, famed for its Blue Flag beaches, striking coastal formations and bleak, but captivating, boglands of Ballycroy National Park. Ireland’s sixth national park is made up of 11,000 hectares of Atlantic blanket bog and mountainous terrain, and is dominated by the Nephin Beg mountains and Owenduff bog. Nature trails along boardwalks offer panoramic views across the mountains and out over Achill Island to the west. Achill is connected to County Mayo by a short road bridge, and no trip to the west coast would be complete without a visit to Achill’s heavenly beaches. There is something truly otherworldly about the largest of the Ireland’s offshore islands and it has to be seen to be believed. Making your way off Achill, tackle the popular pilgrimage route to the top of Croagh Patrick Mountain, where you might spot one or two dedicated pilgrims hiking to the summit in bare feet! If hiking’s not your thing, explore the Great Western Greenway by bike along the old Westport-to-Achill railway line. The 41km, off-road cycle trail takes in views across Clew Bay, passes the Neolithic site of the Céide Fields – the oldest known field system in the world – and takes in the towns of Mulranny, Newport and Westport along the way. The Georgian town of Westport was once named by the Irish Times newspaper as the best place to live in Ireland and few could argue with that. Known as ‘The Venice of the West’, Westport ticks all the boxes when it comes to aesthetic beauty, great amenities, a thriving cultural scene and friendly locals. The town is set in the southeast corner of Clew Bay and is popular among tourists for offering an impressive range of outdoor activities as well as museums and heritage centres. Other

THIS PAGE: Lough Allen and the Arigna Mountains, County Roscommon FACING PAGE FROM TOP, CLOCKWISE: Coastal town of Clifden; Claddagh ring; Aran jumpers

IRELAND’S BEST

030-040_RFConnacht_IB2.indd 36

17/01/2019 11:55

REGIONAL FOCUS Connacht

popular towns in Mayo include the bustling market town of Castlebar and the county’s largest town, Ballina, the salmon capital of Ireland, perched on the River Moy. North of Mayo, we enter Yeats Country, as County Sligo is said to have inspired much of the work of the Nobel Prize-winning poet, William Butler Yeats. The dramatic scenery of Sligo’s coastline is the perfect backdrop for watersports enthusiasts who frequent the waters here at Surf Coast, where you’ll find some of the biggest waves in western Europe. One of Yeats’ poems describes the man himself being buried in the shadows of one of the region’s most distinctive mountains, Benbulbin. Resembling that of Table Mountain

in Cape Town, South Africa, Benbulbin is popular with hillwalkers for its jagged peaks and valleys, and walkers can indeed visit the grave of Yeats who, as his poem predicts, is buried in the nearby town of Drumcliff. County Sligo has plenty of attractions to fill a holiday itinerary; from offshore islands and loughs to monastic ruins, castles and mansion houses. If time affords, the town of Sligo is well worth a visit to explore more of the Yeats connection at The Model Gallery, where works by his brother, Jack B. Yeats, are on display. Like many of Ireland’s major towns and cities, Sligo exudes charm and a warmth that makes all those who visit feel welcome. From Sligo, we move inland to the counties

IRELAND’S BEST

030-040_RFConnacht_IB2.indd 37

37 17/01/2019 11:55

of Leitrim and Roscommon, and it is here that we discover Ireland’s intricate network of rivers and loughs, creating a continuous waterway that traces its way north and across the border into Northern Ireland. While not landlocked, much of Leitrim is inland, with the exception of a short 4km-long stretch of coastline at the village of Tullaghan. As Ireland’s least-populous county, Leitrim’s rural landscape offers an escape from the daily grind and is a popular retreat for boating and angling enthusiasts. Cruisers have miles of rivers and lakes to navigate and can stop off at picture-postcard villages like Dromod or Drumsna before travelling leisurely all the way to County Fermanagh via the ShannonErne Waterway, through 16 electronic lock gates. If you happen to have a fishing rod on board, then expect to be occupied for most of the day as the region’s lakes and rivers are brimming with bream, tench, rudd, roach, salmon and pike. Fancy something a little more adventurous? Take to Lough Allen for a spot of windsurfing or sailing before paddling out to a deserted island for a serene night under the stars. Like Sligo, W.B. Yeats spent time in Leitrim and references the Glencar Waterfall in his poem from 1886, The Stolen Child. Many literary

IRELAND’S BEST

030-040_RFConnacht_IB2.indd 38

17/01/2019 11:55

REGIONAL FOCUS Connacht

greats were inspired by Leitrim’s wild waters, and recent years have seen an influx in artists and craftspeople taking up residence in this rural part of Ireland. To browse the work of these local artists, visit Leitrim Design House in the county’s ‘cruise capital’ of Carrickon-Shannon. Moor at the marina and enjoy hearty pub grub in the charming town where there are plenty of shops to stock up for the next leg of the journey. County Roscommon is Connacht’s only landlocked county, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t surrounded by water. Like Leitrim, Roscommon’s lakes and rivers make this a haven for cruisers and sail boats which glide around the lakes of Lough Ree and Lough Key, and along the rivers of the Shannon and the Suck. The popular Lough Key is located at the heart of the county and is surrounded by 350 hectares of woodland. Lough Key Forest and Activity Park offers hours of fun for all the family with tree canopy walks, orienteering and waymarked walking and cycling routes, all within an area of great historical interest that was ruled by the McDermotts until the 17th century, when it was granted to the King family from England and renamed Rockingham.

THESE PAGES FROM TOP, CLOCKWISE: Classiebawn Castle; the River Shannon; Lough Key Lake

IRELAND’S BEST

030-040_RFConnacht_IB2.indd 39

39 17/01/2019 11:55

So, whether visiting Connacht’s coastal counties of Galway, Mayo and Sligo, or indeed the inland counties of Leitrim and Roscommon, expect water to form the backdrop of most of your trip in some shape or form. From island hopping, surfing or bathing along the Wild Atlantic Way to cruising along the Shannon, Connacht offers some of the best coastal adventures and rural retreats in Ireland. But never fear, a traditional Irish pub serving up hearty meals and a live music session is never far away, even in the most remote of places. To discover more about everything this spectacular province has to offer, see the map on pages 54 and 55 for top places to visit, ways to get about and the best places to stay. With vibrant towns and cities, scenic offshore islands with exquisite sandy beaches and fascinating archaeological structures, Connacht has all you need for a perfect family getaway.

THIS PAGE FROM TOP: Galway City in the moonlight and at dawn

IRELAND’S BEST

030-040_RFConnacht_IB2.indd 40

17/01/2019 11:55

041-TempleBar-AD-IB2.indd 41

16/01/2019 11:15

ULSTER

Journey through ‘Westeros’ and beyond Area: 21,552km2 Counties: 9 Population: 2.1 million Largest towns/cities: Bangor, Belfast, Craigavon, Derry, Lisburn Rivers: Bann, Erne, Foyle, Lagan, Shannon (source) Highest point: Slieve Donard, 850m (Northern Ireland’s highest peak)

SCOTLAND’S IRELAND’S BEST BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 42

17/01/2019 17:35

REGIONAL FOCUS Ulster

SCOTLAND’S IRELAND’S BEST BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 43

43 17/01/2019 17:35

PREVIOUS PAGE: The Dark Hedges THESE PAGES FROM LEFT: Derry City Walls; Titanic Centre Belfast

Ireland’s colourful past has been shaped by the influx of many cultures and traditions over the centuries, and the province of Ulster is an intriguing region to visit and explore the effects of such influences. Ulster presents a unique landscape sculpted by the Ulster Scots, the Gaels, the Normans and the Anglo-Normans, and the combined impact of these cultures and powers is evident across the province. This makes for a fascinating journey of discovery around Ireland’s northernmost province. Ulster is Ireland’s second largest province after Munster and second most populated after Leinster, with a population of over two million people. Ulster has nine counties, six of which make up Northern Ireland (part of the UK) with the other three in the Republic of Ireland. The six Northern Ireland counties are Antrim, Armagh, Down, Fermanagh, Londonderry and Tyrone, and those in the Republic of Ireland are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan. The province's most important urban areas are mainly situated to the east of the county and these include Northern Ireland’s capital city of Belfast, the nearby city

of Lisburn and the seaside town of Bangor that lies on the southern side of Belfast Lough. Similar to the areas around Dublin, people are attracted to the eastern towns and cities around Belfast, which allow for easy access to mainland UK and Europe for travel and job opportunities. Although not located near the east coast, Derry City is the province’s second most populated urban area and is favoured by many for its vibrant nightlife, packed calendar of events and proximity to Ireland’s stunning north coast. Ulster is outlined by the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the Irish Sea to the east – where some of Ireland’s most famous tourist attractions are located such as the Giant’s Causeway, the Old Bushmills Distillery and the Belfast shipyard where the ill-fated RMS Titanic was built. Thousands are drawn to these sites every year to learn all about Ulster’s natural wonders and industrial history, but many visitors are also interested to find out more about the province’s turbulent, and well-documented past. Historically, Ulster was Ireland’s strongest connection to the Gaelic world, which was

IRELAND’S BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 44

17/01/2019 17:35

REGIONAL FOCUS Ulster

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 45

45 17/01/2019 17:35

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 46

17/01/2019 17:35

REGIONAL FOCUS Ulster made up of Gaelic Ireland, Scotland and the Isle of Man. Invasion by the Normans in the 12th century saw the province’s eastern region conquered by the Anglo-Normans until the O’Neill dynasty caused the collapse of Anglo-Norman reign by the late 14th century. Of Gaelic origin, the O’Neills became kings of Ulster, which further promoted Gaelic culture and traditions, and resulted in greater independence from the other provinces. The O’Neill’s were defeated in the Nine Years’ War (1594-1603) that sparked the Plantation of Ulster by James I, King of England, who colonised Ulster with English-speaking Protestant settlers. This inflow of Protestant migrants caused unrest among Ulster Catholics, leading to sectarian violence and signs of geographical and political divisions, eventually resulting in Ulster becoming part of the United Kingdom in 1801. Campaigns to move towards Irish self-rule in the early 20th Century were opposed by Ulster Protestants and started the Irish War of Independence from 1919 to 1921, leading to the partitioning of Ireland. Six Ulster counties became Northern Ireland, while the rest formed what was then known as the Irish Free State (Republic of Ireland). At one time, Belfast was Ireland’s most thriving city, but sectarian divisions and disputes over home rule has plagued much of the Province of Ulster, even until the late 1990s when Northern Ireland’s conflict (known as ‘The Troubles’) came to an end following the Good Friday Agreement of 1998. Thankfully, the last 20 years has transformed Belfast and parts of Ulster beyond recognition, with extensive redevelopment and rejuvenation creating a region that is booming with tourism and prospects for the locals. Today, Belfast is brimming with trendy bars, award-winning hotels and restaurants, top-class museums and stylish shopping centres. The future is bright for this chic metropolis, but Belfast doesn’t shy away from sharing the past. A trip around the city on an open-top tour bus is all visitors need for a snapshot of how far the city and the surrounding area have come, with many surprises along the way. For example, did you know that Belfast has its own Leaning Tower of Pisa? Cameras at the ready as you drive past the Albert Clock, leaning 1.25m to the left! Continue your exploration of Ulster’s urban areas with a visit to the Walled City of Derry in the northern county of Londonderry. A former UK City of Culture, Derry’s vibrant arts scene showcases the talent of local artists, musicians and performers via its many theatres, art galleries and dance studios. Like Belfast, colourful and often complex creations adorn the walls of many buildings around the city

IRELAND’S BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 47

47 17/01/2019 17:35

PREVIOUS PAGE: Belfast City Hall THESE PAGES: Popular Game of Thrones filming locations of Tollymore Forest and Ballintoy Harbour

in the form of murals. The Bogside Artists, indeed the people behind these powerful modern art messages, invite visitors to take a tour of the murals to learn more about their significance and offer an insight into what inspires the artists. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, no trip to this walled city would be complete without a walk around the walls themselves. Built over 400 years ago to protect those planted in Ireland by King James I, the walls are 1.5km in circumference and up to 10m wide, which makes this one of the finest examples of a walled city in Europe and the only place in Ireland where city walls remain completely intact. Like Ireland’s other provinces, Ulster contributes its fair share of breathtaking scenery and mesmerising landscapes. The counties of Donegal, Londonderry, Antrim and Down all offer stretches of coastline with perfect surf conditions, delicate sand dunes, clifftop walks and world-famous tourist attractions. However, these coastal areas have become even more popular in recent years for providing much of the backdrop for HBO’s TV series of the moment, Game of Thrones. Fans of the show will recognise the filming locations

of County Antrim’s Ballintoy Harbour and Cushendun Caves, while Portstewart Strand and Downhill Beach in County Londonderry provide the setting for some of the most recognisable scenes. These coastal locations may be instantly identifiable as parts of Ulster, but the Game of Thrones cast and crew have also set up camp at many other sites across the province. Mountains, castles, forest parks and even a tree-lined road (the Dark Hedges) have been used for filming, causing locals to wonder if they do in fact live in the one of the ‘Seven Kingdoms’. Dragons have flown over Binevenagh Mountain in County Londonderry, while County Down has seen dire wolves spotted in Tollymore Forest, kings crowned at Inch Abbey and battles fought at Castle Ward. It is no wonder, therefore, that visitors flying into Belfast International Airport are currently greeted by a large sign reading ‘Welcome to Westeros’. What makes Ulster truly magical is the fact that, in the space of a few days, visitors can take in all the delights of cities, beaches, mountains, lakes and rolling countryside. From the seaboard counties, venture over County

IRELAND’S BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 48

17/01/2019 17:36

REGIONAL FOCUS Ulster

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 49

49 17/01/2019 17:36

Donegal’s Derryveagh Mountains, the Antrim Plateau or the Mournes in County Down and head inland towards Ulster’s landlocked counties where, like Connacht, you’re still never far from a body of water. The largest freshwater lake in the British Isles, Lough Neagh, happens to lie right in the centre of five out of the six counties of Northern Ireland. Lough Neagh has an impressive surface area of 392 square kilometres and supplies around 40 per cent of Northern Ireland’s water. The lough is popular among bird watchers and anglers, as the lake and surrounding area are teeming with wildlife. Eel fishing is a major industry here, as European eels find their way into the lough and remain there for around 10-15 years until matured. Lough Neagh Eel is exported to restaurants around the world and has Protected Geographical Status. With shores on Lough Neagh, the counties of Tyrone and Armagh have their own unique offerings. Tyrone’s heather-clad Sperrin Mountains are a wilderness of dramatic valleys, hills, forests and lakes while Armagh is a land of ancient legacy. County Armagh,

IRELAND’S BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 50

17/01/2019 17:36

REGIONAL FOCUS Ulster

THESE PAGES FROM LEFT, CLOCKWISE: Ballintoy Harbour; the Mourne Mountains; Cuilcagh Mountain trail

and the city of the same name, is an important ecclesiastical centre for Ireland thanks to its two magnificent cathedrals, one Church of Ireland, the other Roman Catholic. Armagh is linked to many ecclesiastical and literary greats, namely Saint Patrick who chose to establish his original church in Armagh city, and Jonathan Swift, who is believed to have spent a great deal of time here and in the local area. The Armagh Public Library hosts a collection of Swift’s books and manuscripts including a rare first edition copy of his most famous work, Gulliver’s Travels, complete with notes in his own handwriting. Just outside the city is the ancient pagan ceremonial site of Navan Fort where cairns and dolmens can be found dotted across the land. The largest of these is the Ballykeel Dolmen, a tomb constructed from giant stones hauled from the earth. Stories of Ireland’s ancient past tip over into County Monaghan, which lies at the northern tip of the area known as Ireland’s Ancient East (see Leinster). County Monaghan reveals fascinating heritage sites including a 23-metre megalithic

IRELAND’S BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 51

17/01/2019 17:36

THESE PAGES FROM LEFT: Devenish Island; St Patrick's Church of Ireland Cathedral; Lough Neagh

round tower and high cross in the town of Clones and the prehistoric Tullyrain Ring Fort near Shantonagh. Counties Fermanagh and Cavan may not be near the coast, or even Lough Neagh, but they benefit from their own remarkable network of lakes and rivers. Cavan is believed to have a lake for every day of the year, and many of these are connected by the Shannon and Erne rivers and the restored ShannonErne Waterway, a unique canal system linking the two rivers. Together, Fermanagh and Cavan are a boater’s paradise as visitors can spend days cruising through lush and serene countryside. Excellent coarse and pike fishing draw fishermen into the region and water sports make these lakes and rivers a popular spot for all the family. Before making the journey along these waterways from Cavan to Fermanagh, take some time to check out Cavan’s very own Burren, similar to that of the renowned national park in County Clare. Cavan Burren is a unique relict karst landscape near Cuilcagh Mountain that hides ancient hut sites, rock art, a wedge tomb and glacial boulders just waiting to be discovered. Fermanagh’s two lakes, Upper and Lower Lough Erne are a haven for water-lovers who can island hop via kayak or canoe, or paddle around the lakes’ numerous inlets that hide interesting nooks and crannies. Explore the many little islands among the loughs including White Island, with its curious stone figures that

IRELAND’S BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 52

17/01/2019 17:36

REGIONAL FOCUS Ulster are thought to be around 2,000 years old, and Boa Island’s mysterious Janus figure, carved by the Celts between AD400 and AD800. Devenish Island is the setting for one of Ulster’s best preserved monastic sites, founded in the 6th century by Saint Molaise. Over the centuries, the site has been raided by Vikings and ruined by fire in 1157, but later flourished with the construction of a parish church and St Mary’s Augustine Priory. As is the case all over the island of Ireland, Ulster is ready to welcome you with open arms and locals will delight in recounting stories about the province. To plan your trip and discover more about everything this spectacular area has to offer, see the map on pages 54 and 55 for top places to visit, ways to get about and the best places to stay. With up and coming urban areas, world-famous tourist attractions and the filming set of Game of Thrones as your playground, Ulster provides everything you need for an action packed, adventure-filled holiday. Just don’t forget to start your day on the right foot with a good old Ulster Fry!

IRELAND’S BEST

042-053_RFUlster_IB2.indd 53

53 17/01/2019 17:36

Londonderry 17

NORTHERN IRELAND

18 15

LONDONDERRY

DONEGAL

ANTRIM

8 9

ULSTER

20 20

Belfast

TYRONE

10 3

13 7

Sligo

FERMANAGH

14 16 16

ARMAGH

DOWN

1 MONAGHAN

SLIGO

3 2

LEITRIM

CAVAN LOUTH

MAYO

ROSCOMMON

CONNACHT

LONGFORD

7 1

6 5

MEATH

11 GALWAY

Galway

WESTMEATH

LEINSTER 3

DUBLIN

Dublin

2 6 9

O F F A LY

KILDARE

6 13

IRELAND 10

8 14

WICKLOW

LAOIS

4 4

CLARE

5 13 TIPPERARY

Limerick

9 LIMERICK

Tipperary

CARLOW

Kilkenny KILKENNY

8 WEXFORD

6 12

11 5

MUNSTER

4 WATERFORD

KERRY

CORK

6 10

Cork

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

054-055_AttractionMap_IB2.indd 54

17/01/2019 17:06

IRELAND'S BEST VISITOR ATTRACTIONS

BEACHES & MOUNTAIN WALKS

TOURS & CRUISES

1. Newgrange...................................................56 2. Croke Park & GAA Museum....................... 57 3. Dublin Zoo.................................................... 57 4. Kilmainham Gaol Museum.........................58 5. Guinness Storehouse..................................58 6. The Book of Kells.........................................59 7. The Little Museum of Dublin......................59 8. Glendalough.................................................59 9. The Rock of Cashel..................................... 60 10. Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral....................... 60 11. Skellig Michael..............................................61 12. The Irish Whiskey Experience ��61 13. Cliffs of Moher..............................................62 14. Burren National Park..................................62 15. Croagh Patrick.............................................63 16. Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark......... 63 17. Derry City Walls...........................................63 18. Giant’s Causeway........................................64 19. Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge.....................64 20. Titanic Belfast...............................................64

1. Skerries..........................................................94 2. Lugnaquilla Mountain.................................95 3. Dunmore East..............................................95 4. Coumshingaun Loop Walk.........................96 5. Inchydoney Beach.......................................96 6. Torc Mountain..............................................96 7. Carrauntoohil...............................................97 8. Coumeenoole Beach...................................97 9. Mount Brandon............................................98 10. Trá an Dóilín..................................................99 11. Dog’s Bay......................................................99 12. Keem Bay......................................................99 13. Benbulbin...................................................100 14. Cuilcagh Legnabrocky Trail......................100 15. Errigal Mountain & Mackoght Loop Walk................................. 101 16. Sawel & Dart Loop Walk........................... 101 17. Benone Strand........................................... 102 18. Whiterocks Beach...................................... 102 19. Tyrella Beach.............................................. 103 20. Slieve Donard............................................. 103

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

CASTLES & COUNTRY HOUSES 1. Belvedere House, Gardens & Park ��66 2. Trim Castle....................................................67 3. Malahide Castle & Gardens........................67 4. Castletown House & Parklands ��68 5. Áras an Uachtaráin......................................68 6. Powerscourt Estate.....................................69 7. Kilkenny Castle.............................................69 8. Cahir Castle...................................................70 9. Blarney Castle & Gardens...........................70 10. Derrynane House.........................................70 11. Muckross House, Gardens & Traditional Farms..........................................71 12. Ross Castle.....................................................71 13. Bunratty Castle & Folk Park....................... 72 14. Parke’s Castle............................................... 72 15. Crom Castle.................................................. 72 16. Florence Court.............................................. 73 17. Donegal Castle............................................. 73 18. Doe Castle..................................................... 74 19. Dunluce Castle............................................. 74 20. Mount Stewart............................................. 74

PLACES TO STAY 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Martello Tower Sutton...............................110 The Merrion Hotel........................................ 111 Ariel House Guesthouse............................. 111 Wicklow Head Lighthouse......................... 111 Crosshaven House...................................... 112 Parknasilla Resort & Spa........................... 112 Mannix Point Camping & Caravan Park............................................ 113 Wineport Lodge.......................................... 113 Ashford Castle............................................. 114 The Dolphin Hotel....................................... 114

Ireland’s Ancient East.................................88 Dublin Gravedigger Ghost Tour ��89 Dublin Viking Duck Tour.............................89 Cork & Blarney Castle by Rail �� 90 Dolphin & Whale Watching...................... 90 Aran Islands & Cliffs of Moher ��91 Donegal Heritage Tour................................91 Rathlin Island Walking Tour.......................92 Belfast City Tours ........................................92 Game of Thrones ........................................92

DISTILLERIES 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Teeling Distillery.......................................... 77 The Powerscourt Distillery.........................78 Tullamore D.E.W. Distillery.........................79 Glendalough Distillery............................... 80 Walsh Whiskey Distillery.............................81 The Jameson Experience............................81 Slane Whiskey..............................................82 Kilbeggan Distillery.....................................83 Bushmills Distillery......................................83 Echlinville Distillery.....................................84

IRISH BARS 1. The Temple Bar .........................................104 2. The Cobblestone........................................ 105 3. O’Donoghue’s............................................ 105 4. De Barra’s Folk Club..................................106 5. Tigh Neachtain...........................................106 6. Matt Molloy’s.............................................. 107 7. The Beach Bar............................................ 107 8. Duke of York............................................... 108 9. Johnnie Fox’s Pub.....................................109 10. Mulligan's....................................................109

IRELAND’S BEST

054-055_AttractionMap_IB2.indd 55

55 17/01/2019 17:06

A GREAT DAY OUT It wasn’t easy, but we have managed to whittle the best visitor attractions in Ireland down to 20

NEWGRANGE

Newgrange, located in the Boyne Valley, County Meath, is one of the finest examples of Ireland’s Ancient East. This Stone Age (Neolithic) monument was built by farmers that prospered on these rich lands and the attraction is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Newgrange is a large, circular mound with a 19-metre passageway inside, leading to three chambers. It was constructed around 5,200 years ago, making it older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids of Giza. The structure is part of a collection of around 35 monuments built along a bend of the River Boyne. Together, they are known as Brú na Bóinne, The Palace or Mansion of

the Boyne. Visitors can access Newgrange by guided tour from the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre, where they can learn about how the monuments were built and the society that created these Neolithic tombs, before crossing the river to see it for themselves. Open: Times vary throughout the year, from 9am–7pm in the summer months and until 5pm in winter. Price: €4 for adults and €3 for children. Facilities: Tourist information, tearoom, picnic area and parking. Donore, Co. Meath +353 41 088 0300 www.newgrange.com

IRELAND’S BEST

056-064_20BestVisitorAttractions_IB2.indd 56

17/01/2019 17:13

20 BEST Visitor Attractions

CROKE PARK & GAA MUSEUM

The imposing Croke Park stadium is unmistakeable on the Dublin skyline and is the home of Gaelic games and the headquarters of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA). The stadium is one of the largest in Europe with a capacity of 82,300 and has hosted many high-profile, international sporting events, concerts and cultural events. In the eyes of the Irish people, Croke Park is much more than a stadium. Gaelic games and the GAA is at the heart of communities in Ireland and the GAA represents the country’s unique national games of Gaelic football and hurling. With that in mind, a stadium tour and visit to the ground’s museum is a must to understand the identity, history and culture associated with these sports. The museum features exhibitions and an Interactive Games Zone, where visitors can test their skills, and a stadium tour offers an access-all-areas experience around this intriguing stadium. While you’re there, try out the Ericsson Skyline tour, a thrilling 17-storey high, rooftop walkway suspended above the ground that offers breathtaking views of Dublin city and beyond. Open: Daily from 9.30am (10.30am on Sundays) to 5pm – times may be adjusted on match days. Price: Stadium tours and access to GAA Museum €14 for adults and €9 for children. Museum only tickets – €7 for adults and €5 for children. St Joseph’s Ave, Drumcondra, Dublin 3, Co. Dublin +353 1 819 2300 www.crokepark.ie/gaa-museum-tours

DUBLIN ZOO

Dublin Zoo first opened its doors as a private society of anatomists and physicists, supported by wealthy subscribers, on 1 September 1831. In 1840, the society made the radical decision to open the zoo to the public on Sundays for just a penny. This made the zoo a firm favourite with the locals and established an affectionate relationship between Dubliners and the zoo that lasts to this day. Since then, Dublin Zoo has become one of Ireland’s top visitor destinations, with over a million visitors a year exploring the 28 hectares of parkland designed to reflect the natural habitat of the animals that occupy its gardens and lakes. The zoo is home to over 400 animals from all over the world, many of which are under threat in the wild and part of international breeding programmes. The animals are cared for by professionals who are devoted to

their welfare and understanding their diet, genetics and general health. Educational programmes and workshops are also offered by the zoo’s Discovery and Learning Centre. Specialist teachers tailor programmes for everyone from pre-school right through to adults who want to learn more about the natural world and conservation. Open: Year round, daily from 9am–6pm, March to September; January 4.30pm; February 5pm; October 5.30pm; November and December 4pm. Price: From €17.50 for adults and €13 for children (under three years old are free). Facilities: Meerkat Restaurant plus cafés and kiosks located around the zoo, plus two gift shops. Phoenix Park, Dublin 8, Co. Dublin +353 1 474 8900 www.dublinzoo.ie

IRELAND’S BEST

056-064_20BestVisitorAttractions_IB2.indd 57

57 17/01/2019 17:13

KILMAINHAM GAOL MUSEUM

In 1796, Kilmainham Gaol was opened as the new county gaol for Dublin and was built to replace the old prison located near the present-day Mount Brown. Built on Gallows Hill, some of the most notorious figures in Irish history were detained and even executed here. From leaders of the 1798 rebellion to the Irish Civil War, names such as Henry Joy McCracken, Robert Emmet, Anne Devlin and Charles Stewart Parnell will always be associated with the building. Of course, the prison also held thousands of ordinary men, women and even children for everything from petty offences to serious crimes. Due to the use of the prison as a holding depot for convicts awaiting transportation to Australia, overcrowding was a problem which led to poor health and hygiene, and ultimately disease, through most of the 19th century. The gaol eventually fell to ruin and was closed in 1924, but by 1960 it was decided that the prison played an important role in Ireland’s history and it should be restored. The upkeep and running of the gaol was then taken into state care in 1986 under the Office of Public Works. Open: Year round from 9am–6.45pm in the summer months and from 9.30am–5.30pm in winter. Price: €9 for adults and €5 for children and includes a guided tour. Facilities: Café on site. Inchicore Road, Kilmainham, Dublin 8, Co. Dublin +353 1 453 5984 www.kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie

GUINNESS STOREHOUSE

Many people say that Guinness doesn’t travel well, so where better to sample the Black Stuff than its home in the heart of Dublin. Located at St James’s Gate Brewery, the Guinness Storehouse is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions where eager tourists wind their way through the visitor centre for a well-earned pint in the rooftop bar. Visitors begin the journey at the bottom of the world’s largest pint glass before making their way up through seven floors of interactive displays and experiences. Understanding the brewing process and learning about the brewing heritage of Guinness alongside Ireland’s rich history is enough to build up a thirst by the time guests reach the world-famous Gravity Bar that overlooks the city. What better reward than a perfectly poured pint of Guinness while enjoying panoramic views of Dublin? Open: Year round, daily from 9.30am– 7pm with extended opening hours in July and August. Price: €17.50 for adults and €16 for a child. Children under 13 are free. Facilities: Four restaurants/cafés, two bars and The Guinness Retail Store. St James’s Gate, Dublin 8, Co. Dublin +353 1 408 4800 www.guinness-storehouse.com

IRELAND’S BEST

056-064_20BestVisitorAttractions_IB2.indd 58

17/01/2019 17:14

20 BEST Visitor Attractions

THE BOOK OF KELLS

The Book of Kells is a national treasure and a must-see. Located in the heart of the city, visitors will be transported back to the 18th century as they walk through the cobbled stones of Trinity College Dublin to the Old Library where the Book is on display. This famous medieval manuscript has attracted many a well-known tourist from the Queen to the Obamas. The 9th-century Book of Kells contains the four Gospels of the New Testament written in Latin on vellum (prepared calfskin). The book is famous largely for its lavish decoration which combines intricate detail with bold and striking illustrations. The Book came to Dublin in the mid 1600s where it has been on display since the mid 19th century. Since 1953, it has been bound in four volumes but only two of these can normally be seen. Open: Daily from 8.30am–5pm, May to September (9.30am–5pm on Sundays) and 9.30am–5pm from October to April (Sundays, 12pm–4.30pm). Price: Adult tickets cost between €10 and €13 and children under 12 are free. Facilities: Gift shop, cafés/restaurants. College Green, Dublin 2, Co. Dublin +353 1 896 2320 www.tcd.ie/visitors/book-of-kells

THE LITTLE MUSEUM OF DUBLIN

A search for the best museums in Ireland will see this little gem top most lists. Following a public appeal for historic objects, the museum was able to open in 2011 thanks to the generosity of the Irish people who donated thousands of artefacts. Today, there are over 5,000 items in the museum’s collection telling the remarkable story of the Irish capital. Located in a beautiful Georgian townhouse overlooking Dublin’s St Stephen’s Green, the aim of the museum is to remember the city’s recent past and offer visitors a snapshot of everything that shaped 20th-

century Dublin. Tours are insightful, humorous, quirky and captivating as guides tell the tale of Dublin and Irish history. Tours fill up quickly, so online booking is recommended. Open: Daily from 9.30am–5pm (8pm on Thursdays). Price: Tickets start at €8. Facilities: The basement is home to acclaimed Irish restaurant Hatch & Sons; all museum ticket holders received 10 per cent off their food bill. 15 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin, Co. Dublin +353 1 661 1000 www.littlemuseum.ie

GLENDALOUGH

Glendalough, known as ‘the valley of the two lakes’, is another of Ireland’s beautiful visitor destinations. Located in the Wicklow Mountains National Park, people have been drawn to the area for thousands of years for its rich history, stunning scenery, archaeology and wildlife. There is so much to explore here from its famous scenic lakes and valleys, walks and trails, and its world famous monastic site and round tower. A monastic settlement flourished in the Valley of Glendalough from the 11th century AD. Here, visitors can explore the remains where travellers would come in search of teaching from the monks and scholars that once lived there. Enjoy scenic forest walks or

take on a more challenging mountain trail to discover panoramic views of the valley at this magical tourist spot. Open: Accessible all year round at any time of the day on foot. The visitor centre located in Glendalough offers guided tours and audio-visual exhibitions – open daily from 9.30am–6pm (closing at 5pm from midOctober to mid-March). Price: Visitor centre admission is €5 for adults and €3 for children. Facilities: Car parks may be closed early in the morning and in the evenings. Glendalough, Co. Wicklow +353 404 45352 www.glendalough.ie

IRELAND’S BEST

056-064_20BestVisitorAttractions_IB2.indd 59

59 17/01/2019 17:14

SAINT FIN BARRE’S CATHEDRAL

Situated in the heart of Cork city, Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral was consecrated in 1870 and is located at a site where Christian worship has been offered since the 7th century. Saint Fin Barre came to the area where the present cathedral sits in AD606 where he founded a renowned monastic school. He died in AD623 and is said to have been buried near the east end of the cathedral. The present Neo-Gothic cathedral is the design of English architect William Burges. After winning a competition in 1862 to design a new cathedral at a cost of no more than £15,000, Burges was appointed as the architect for the project. Over £100,000 was spent on the building by the time the towers and spires were completed in 1879.

The cathedral is built with Cork limestone and Bath stone with the interior walls lined with red Cork marble. Burges maintained control over all stages of the work making this one of the most coherent Neo-Gothic style cathedrals in western Europe. Open: From 9.30am–5.30pm Monday to Saturday and for two hours on Sundays between April and October. Price: Small admission fee of €5 per adult and €3 for children. Facilities: Guided tours and a gift shop – all profits donated to the upkeep of the Cathedral. Bishop Street, Cork City, Co. Cork +353 21 496 3387 www.corkcathedral.webs.com

THE ROCK OF CASHEL

The Rock of Cashel is one of Ireland’s most treasured historical and archaeological sites, located just five minutes by foot outside the town of Cashel in County Tipperary. This prominent green hill, also known as St Patrick’s Rock or Cashel of Kings, rises from a grassy plain and is home to a collection of 12th and 13th-century buildings that were gifted to the church in 1101 by King Muircheartach O’Brien to end rivalry over possession of the Rock. The history of the Rock of Cashel predates the current buildings as this is reputedly the site of the conversion of the King of Munster by St Patrick in the 5th century AD, however, there is little structural evidence of this period. The highlight of the Rock is Cormac’s Chapel – consecrated in 1134, it is a beautiful example of Romanesque architecture with wide arches, vaulted ceilings and carved doorways. Be sure to visit the Cashel Heritage Centre on the Main Street in Cashel for information about the local area. Entry is free and the centre has a craft shop stocking local crafts and souvenirs. Open: Year round, daily from 9am–7pm in the summer months and until 5.30pm or 4.30pm at other times of the year. Price: Tickets cost €8 for adults and €4 for children. Facilities: Craft and souvenir shop at the Cashel Heritage Centre. Cashel, Co. Tipperary +353 62 61333 www.cashel.ie

IRELAND’S BEST

056-064_20BestVisitorAttractions_IB2.indd 60

17/01/2019 17:14

20 BEST Visitor Attractions

SKELLIG MICHAEL

About eight miles off the coast of Portmagee in south west Kerry, the Skellig Islands rise from the Atlantic Ocean to offer an unspoiled glimpse of Ireland’s ancient past. The islands are made up of Small Skellig and Skellig Michael, the latter of which rises an impressive 218 metres above sea level. While the rock is awe-inspiring in itself, it is the incredibly well preserved 6th-century monastic site that sits on top that piques the interest of tourists and archaeologists alike. Now a designated UNESCO world heritage site, the monastic outpost can be reached by climbing a 1,000-year-old stairway of more than 600 steps to discover the beehive huts, cemetery, stone crosses and the Church of St Michael. Visitors can opt to take a boat trip out to the island to discover the site first hand, or choose to discover Skellig Michael by visiting the Skellig Experience Visitor Centre where you will find exhibitions, presentations and photo galleries. Small Skellig is famous

in its own right as the home of more than 27,000 pairs of gannets, making the island the world’s second largest colony of these beautiful seabirds. Keen birdwatchers will also spot puffins, Arctic terns, black guillemots and herring gulls nesting on the steep slopes and cliffs of Small Skellig. Open: The Skellig Experience Visitor Centre is open from March to November from 10am– 4.30pm. the centre opens five days a week, check the website for closure days. Price: Entry to the exhibitions costs €5 for adults and €3 for children. Boat tours around the island are offered depending on the weather at €35 for adults and €20 for children. Please note, these tours do not include landing on the island, however other tour operators offer tours with landing. Facilities: Restaurant and craft shop. Valentia Island, Co. Kerry +353 66 947 6306 www.skelligexperience.com

THE IRISH WHISKEY EXPERIENCE

No trip to Killarney in the southwest of Ireland would be complete without a visit to the country’s premier sensory and interactive whisky attraction, the Irish Whiskey Experience. Whether new to Irish whiskey or a connoisseur, there is something for everyone here as you delve into the history of whiskey production, the distilling process and comparative tastings of the nation’s finest. Masterclasses and courses will take you through the art of blending, coopering, food pairing and deconstructions of Ireland’s most celebrated whiskeys. The attraction is a vibrant addition

to Killarney’s beautiful countryside and visitors are sure to leave with a new appreciation for uisce beatha (the water of life). The Irish Whiskey Experience is located in the heart of Killarney, just five minutes from the tourist information office. Open: Daily from 12pm–7.15pm. Price: Vary depending on choice of course with the Distiller’s Apprentice course, An Introduction to Irish Whiskey, costing €20. 93 New Street, Killarney, Co. Kerry +353 64 663 5700 www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

IRELAND’S BEST

056-064_20BestVisitorAttractions_IB2.indd 61

17/01/2019 17:14

14 13

CLIFFS OF MOHER

The Cliffs of Moher is another of Ireland’s famous coastal visitor attractions. These vertical cliffs along the Wild Atlantic Way draw over a million people a year to experience the breathtaking views out across the ocean and overlooking the beautiful Aran Islands. Visitors can marvel at the ancient rock beneath their feet while surrounded by nature, wildlife and the sound of the mighty Atlantic as it crashes against the cliffs below. This tourist favourite can be so busy in the summer months that the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience is forced to close its doors due to overcrowding. At least two hours is required to really appreciate the 8km of sheer rock face, with many people

spending half a day; and as the cliffs face due west, consider visiting later in the day to catch a truly spectacular sunset! Open: The Visitor Experience is open year round from 9am. Closing times vary throughout the year with the attraction open to as late as 9pm in July and August and 5pm in the winter months. Online booking is recommended. Price: Tickets cost €6 for adults (under 16s are free) and this includes entry to The Cliffs Exhibition. Facilities: Cafés and gift shop. Liscannor, Co. Clare +353 65 708 6141 www.cliffsofmoher.ie

BURREN NATIONAL PARK

The Burren National Park is located in the southeastern corner of the Burren, a rocky, limestone region in County Clare with a landscape likened to that of the moon. The word ‘Burren’ comes from the Irish word ‘Boíreann’ meaning rocky place. The park stretches over 1500 hectares of this distinctive area and was bought by the Government for nature conservation and public access as it contains examples of all the major habitats found in the Burren. There are five marked walking trails to help you discover the many habitats and species that thrive here such as rich limestone grasslands, hazel and ash woodlands, and limestone pavements. To learn more about the formation of the Burren and how its unique flora and fauna are managed, visit the Information Point located in the Clare Heritage Centre in Corofin. Entrance to the Information Point is free and open to the public between April and the end of September. Conservation is high on the agenda here and staff will regularly organise talks, walks and activities to promote awareness and educate visitors. Open: The national park is open year round. Price: Access is free. Facilities: Talks, activities and guided walks available at the Information Point in Corofin. Corofin, Co. Clare +353 65 682 7693 www.burrennationalpark.ie

IRELAND’S BEST

056-064_20BestVisitorAttractions_IB2.indd 62

17/01/2019 17:14

20 BEST Visitor Attractions

CROAGH PATRICK

Croagh Patrick is considered Ireland’s holiest mountain and is renowned for its traditional pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint. The famous mountain overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo and people have been making the pilgrimage to the summit for over 5,000 years to mark the forty days that Saint Patrick fasted here in AD441. The first stop on the pilgrimage is a statue of the saint erected in 1928 by Reverend Father Patterson. At the top, there is a modern chapel where mass is celebrated on traditional pilgrimage days during the year. It is a popular sight to see pilgrims trek to the summit in bare feet as an act of penance! The Croagh Patrick Visitor Centre, Teach na Miasa (meaning ‘the house of dishes’) is located at the foot of the mountain

and was opened by Gerry Walsh, director of Archaeological Excavations at the summit, and his wife, Gabrielle. They opened the centre in 2000 in response to the interest of visitors in the archaeological discoveries made at the top. Open: The Visitor Centre is open from 10am– 7pm in high season and limited opening hours in low season. Price: Access to the mountain is free. Facilities: Restaurant, guided tours of the mountain, packed lunches, secure lockers, a craft shop and hot showers (for a nominal fee). Call or email (info@croagh-patrick.com) for additional information. Teach na Miasa, Murrisk, Co. Mayo +353 98 64114 www.croagh-patrick.com

ARBLE ARCH CAVES M GLOBAL GEOPARK

For thousands of years, the Marble Arch Caves lay undisturbed by visitors as the river below eroded millions of tonnes of limestone to carve out the majestic passages that we can explore today. In 1895, French cave explorer Edouard Alfred Martel and a young scientist born in Dublin, Lyster Jameson, ventured into the darkness and discovered what is now one of Europe’s finest showcaves , taking visitors on a 75-minute tour of this natural underworld of rivers, stalactites and chambers. Electric powered boats glide through subterranean rivers before visitors continue along a 1.5km walkway to marvel at the caves' beauty.

Open: Daily from 10am–4.30pm from March to September (open to 5pm in July and August); 10.30am–3pm during October and November; closed December to end of February. Please note, cave tours may not be available after heavy rain. Price: £9.50 for adults and £6.50 for children, under five years old are free. Facilities: Marble Arch Café, souvenir shop, parking and free WiFi. 43 Marlbank Road, Florencecourt, Co. Fermanagh, BT92 1EW +44 28 6634 8855 www.marblearchcavesgeopark.com

DERRY CITY WALLS

The 17th-century walls surrounding the city of Derry make it one of the finest examples of a European walled city. At 1.5km in circumference, the walls form a walkway around the inner city, offering a unique view of the layout of the original town and its preserved, Renaissancestyle street plan. The walls were built between 1613 and 1618 and there are four original gates – Bishop’s Gate, Ferryquay Gate, Butcher Gate and Shipquay Gate – with a further three that were added later – Magazine Gate, Castle Gate and New Gate. Open: Open to the public from dawn to dusk. Price: Free of charge. Facilities: Guided tours are available. Derry, Co. Londonderry, BT48 6AT +44 28 7126 7284 www.visitderry.com

IRELAND’S BEST

056-064_20BestVisitorAttractions_IB2.indd 63

63 17/01/2019 17:14

GIANT’S CAUSEWAY

Steeped in myth and legend, the Giant’s Causeway is thought to be the handiwork of giant Finn McCool who used the hexagonal basalt columns to create a path to Scotland where he wanted to take on the mighty Benandonner. The Giant’s Causeway has captured people’s imaginations and inspired artists for centuries, but it has also sparked debate among scientists. With over 40,000 interlocking columns, it is no surprise that this coastal wonder is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as it perfectly demonstrates the result of the intense volcanic and geological activity of the Earth’s ancient past. The National Trust owned site features a state-of-the-art visitor centre built to blend seamlessly with the surrounding landscape. The grass roof offers panoramic

views of the beautiful coastline and inside you can unlock the magic in the exhibition areas with interactive activities and videos. Take a guided tour to the Causeway or make your way down to the famous rocks at your own pace. Open: The visitor centre is open from 9am to 6pm and closes at 5pm in the winter months; access to the coastline and North Antrim Coast Path is from dawn to dusk. Price: Standard prices are £10.50 per adult and £5.25 for children. Facilities: Grab-and-go coffee shop and gift shop. 44 Causeway Road, Bushmills, BT57 8SU +44 28 2073 1855 www.giantscausewaytickets.com

CARRICK-A-REDE ROPE BRIDGE

This rope bridge, suspended almost 100 feet above sea level, is not for the faint hearted. First erected by salmon fishermen 350 years ago, the bridge connects the Antrim coastline to Carrick-a-Rede Island, home to a single cottage where fishermen would take cover. Each year, the National Trust owned tourist hotspot attracts visitors from all over the world, waiting in line to take on the exhilarating experience. Although no longer used by salmon fishermen, the bridge has been replaced and upgraded several times over the years to cope with the volume of tourists that come to attempt the walk to the other side. The current bridge, erected in 2008, was made

in Belfast at a cost of £16,000 and offers a much safer passage for visitors than previous versions. That said, many revellers have made it across to the island, but couldn’t face the return journey, requiring a boat to take them back! Open: Tickets can be purchased from 9.30am with the last ticket sale at 6.15pm during peak season. Price: £7 for adults and £3.50 for children. Facilities: Weighbridge Tea-room serves hot drinks, snacks, gifts and souvenirs. 119a Whitepark Road, Ballintoy, Co. Antrim, BT54 6LS +44 28 2076 9839 www.nationaltrust.org.uk/carrick-a-rede

TITANIC BELFAST

Titanic Belfast is a relatively recent addition to Belfast’s skyline. Known as the Titanic Quarter, this area is a tourist hotspot thanks to its links with the world’s most famous shipwreck and the studios where much of theTV series Game of Thrones is filmed. The unique building was inspired by many maritime metaphors including the ships bows, water crystals, the formations of icebergs, compass points and the White Star Line logo. Building work was completed in time for RMS Titanic’s centenary and the centre opened in March 2012. The massive structure houses nine galleries, an underwater exploration theatre, and a recreation of the ship’s cabins. Open: Year round, daily from 9am–7pm in summer months and 10am–5pm in winter. Price: £18 for an adult and £8 for children. Facilities: Two restaurants and souvenir shop. 1 Olympic Way, Titanic Quarter, Belfast, BT3 9EP +44 28 9076 6386 www.titanicbelfast.com

IRELAND’S BEST

056-064_20BestVisitorAttractions_IB2.indd 64

17/01/2019 17:15

THE PERFECT GIFT ALL YEAR ROUND! TREAT YOURSELF OR THAT SPECIAL PERSON WITH THIS EXCLUSIVE OFFER!

6 ISSUES FOR Â£29.95 FOR ALL OVERSEAS PRICES USE CODE: SM4

SUBSCRIBE TODAY AND RECEIVE THESE FOUR STUNNING PRINTS FREE (FRAME NOT INCLUDED)

EASY WAYS TO SUBSCRIBE scotlandmag.imbmsubscription.com or call us on: +44 (0) 1293 312 196 and quote promotional code: SM4 *T&CS APPLY: DISCOUNT IS CALCULATED INCLUSIVE OF POSTAGE FOR UK, EUROPE AND ROW

065-Group-AD-IB2.indd 65

16/01/2019 11:37

FROM THE GRAND TO THE ANCIENT

Our pick of the 20 best castles and country houses from around Ireland

BELVEDERE HOUSE, GARDENS & PARK

This magnificent lakeside estate is set over 160 acres of parkland in Mullingar, County Westmeath and is complete with a fully restored Georgian villa, Romantic follies and the famous Jealous Wall. Belvedere House was designed by the famous architect behind many of Ireland’s mansions, Robert Castles, and was built in 1940 for Richard Rochfort who later became Lord Belvedere. The Rochfort family lived at the nearby Gaulstown House, but Belvedere became Robert’s main Irish residence following tensions with his family. When it was discovered that his second wife had an affair with his younger brother, his wife spent 31 years under house arrest and he disowned his brother. The Jealous Wall, an artificial ruin of an abbey, was built around 1760 to obstruct Robert’s view of another brother’s residence of which he was jealous. The estate was bought in 1982 by

Westmeath County Council who teamed up with Fáilte Ireland and the Great Gardens of Ireland Restoration Fund to undertake a restoration project and open the site to the public in 2000 in its current state. There is much to explore at the Belvedere estate from its intriguing history to the beautiful woodland and lakeside walks, the magical Fairy Garden and Walled Garden taking you on an enchanted trail around the grounds. Open: Year round from 9.30am to 8pm in high season and to 4pm in the winter months (5pm March and October; 7pm April and September). Price: €8 for adults and €4 for children. Facilities: Restaurant and gift shop, CaToCa Fine Foods and Giftware. Mulligar, Co Westmeath +353 44 934 9060 www.belvedere-house.ie

IRELAND’S BEST

066-074_20BestCastles&CountryHouses_IB2.indd 66

17/01/2019 16:47

20 BEST Castles & Country Houses

TRIM CASTLE

Once the site of a wooden fortress, Ireland’s oldest Anglo-Norman castle now sits on the imposing raised, grassy mound which greets visitors on exploring the heritage town of Trim. Situated on the south bank of the River Boyne, Trim Castle covers an area of 30,000m² and was constructed over a 30-year period by Hugh de Lacy and his son Walter to be used as a centre of administration for the Lordship of Meath. The site was chosen for its elevated position which is advantageous as it is easily navigable by boat along the river from the Irish sea. The central stronghold of the castle is a huge three-storey keep built around 1176 and is protected by a ditch, curtain wall and moat. The keep is unique for a Norman structure for being cruciform in shape with 20 corners. Trim Visitor Centre is located next to the castle in the historical old Town Hall building. Here, an informative multimedia exhibition offers a vivid picture of Trim’s medieval ruins and historical background. Open: Monday to Friday from 9.30am to 5.30pm. Price: Guided tours of the castle can be purchased from the Visitor Centre at a cost of €5 for adults and €3 for children. The castle grounds can be accessed over the weekend (excluding the keep) for €2 for adults and €1 for children. Facilities: Gift shop at the Visitor Centre with souvenirs and local books. Trim, Co Meath +353 46 943 8618 www.heritageireland.ie/en/midlandseastcoast/trimcastle

MALAHIDE CASTLE & GARDENS

Malahide Castle is one of Ireland’s oldest castles and has played a key role in the history of Medieval Ireland. The oldest part of the castle dates back to the 12th century when it was built by the Talbots, an English family who first came to the area around 1175. The Talbot family occupied the site for over 800 years and remained in their possession until 1975 when it was sold to the Irish State. During the reign of Edward IV, the castle was enlarged with the addition of towers in the 1600s. Following a fire, the drawing rooms were reconstructed and two Gothic Revival style corner turrets were added between 1765 and 1782. Improvements continued with the addition of a square turreted entrance in the early 19th century and the Talbot Botanic Garden was created after inheriting property in 1948. Much of the 22-acre gardens were created by Lord Milo Talbot, a keen plant collector and landscaper. There are over 5,000 species of plants from around the world and Milo’s passion can be further explored at the Garden Interactive Exhibition located in the Visitor Centre. The exhibition is fun and educational for all the family offering hours of learning and entertainment. Bikes are also available for hire from the visitor centre to explore the beautiful grounds or the surrounding area. Open: Year round from 9.30am to 5.30pm. Price: €12.50 for adults and €6.50 for children for a 45-minute guided tour of the castle. Facilities: Museum shop, retail area, café and The Irish Centre for Cycling. Malahide Demesne, Malahide, Co Dublin +353 1 816 9538 www.malahidecastleandgardens.ie

IRELAND’S BEST

066-074_20BestCastles&CountryHouses_IB2.indd 67

67 17/01/2019 16:47

CASTLETOWN HOUSE & PARKLANDS

Castletown Palladian-style house was built between 1722 and 1729 for William Conolly who was a speaker at the Irish House of Commons. As a man of great power, the house was designed to reflect his position and offer a venue for large scale political entertainment. Typical Palladian architecture features throughout the structure with a central block, two pavilions, kitchens on one side and stables on the other. However, following the arrival of Lady Louisa Conolly in 1759, Castletown underwent quite a transformation over the next 40 years with improvements to the House and demesne. Since her death in 1821, few changes have been made to the house. In 1967, the house and 120 acres of land was bought by the Hon Desmond Guinness and restored by the Irish Georgian Society before

becoming the first house in Leinster to be opened to the public. In 1994, the property was taken over by the Office of Public Works and an extensive and ongoing conservation programme was launched to maintain the house and surrounding parklands for today’s visitors to enjoy. Open: Grounds are open year round from 10am to 6pm. House is open daily from March to November. Price: Grounds free to enter, admission fees to the House from €8 for adults and €3.50 for children. Facilities: The Courtyard Café, events and activities calendar (see website for details). Celbridge, Co Kildare, W23 V9H3 +353 1 628 8252 www.castletown.ie

ÁRAS AN UACHTARÁIN

Áras an Uachtaráin is better known as the family home of the Irish President and a formal venue where the President carries out official state duties. Many world leaders have visited over the years including Presidents Bill Clinton, Barack Obama and Charles de Gaulle, as well as Nelson Mandela, Pope John Paul II and HM Queen Elizabeth II. The house was built in 1751 in Phoenix Park near Dublin by park ranger Nathanial Clements and in 1782 it was acquired for use by the Viceroys who oversaw British rule in Ireland. The Viceroys occupied the building until 1922 and it was used by the Crown’s representatives during the period of Home Rule that followed until it became the official residence of the President of Ireland in 1938. Over the years, the house has seen a number of developments and improvements, including the establishment of the formal gardens by Decimus Burton in the 1840s. The 130 acres of parkland and gardens showcase wonderful Victorian features, ceremonial trees, ornamental lakes and walled gardens. Fruit and vegetables are grown in the garden with organic apples and pears used to make juice for the President’s visitors. The East Wing was added in 1849 for a state visit by Queen Victoria and a West Wing in 1911 for George V’s visit. Open: Open to the public on Saturdays for a one-hour guided tour of the formal rooms and gardens. Check the website for changes to scheduled tours which may occur during state visits or official business. Price: Free of charge, tickets obtained from Phoenix Park Visitor Centre which is open from 9.30am to 5pm. Phoenix Park, Dublin 8, Co Dublin +353 1 617 1000 www.president.ie/en

IRELAND’S BEST

066-074_20BestCastles&CountryHouses_IB2.indd 68

17/01/2019 16:47

20 BEST Castles & Country Houses

POWERSCOURT ESTATE

Powerscourt Estate is a place of indulgence, relaxation and exploration boasting 47 acres of landscaped gardens against the backdrop of Sugarloaf Mountain. The estate also features a striking house which was transformed by 1st Viscount Powerscourt in 1941 from a medieval castle to the style of a Palladian mansion. The house was bought by the Slazenger family in 1961 but tragedy struck when a fire broke out in 1974 leaving much of the house as a shell. Thankfully, in 1996, it was restored and reopened to the public. The estate is now a popular tourist attraction with the gardens being considered among the best in the world. Explore the formal Italian gardens or the secret grotto in the Japanese garden, or enjoy the many varieties of trees in the Tower Valley before taking in the views from the top of Pepperpot Tower. Take a picnic to the nearby Powerscourt Waterfall, the highest in Ireland, or play a round of golf

at one of the two championship courses set in the foothills of the rolling Wicklow hills half an hour from the estate. Powerscourt is also a wonderful place to relax and shop with a range of stores and restaurants. Open: Year round with access to the gardens from 9.30am to 5.30pm daily and at dusk in winter. Opening hours for other parts of the estate vary. Price: Gardens from €7.50 per adult and €3.50 for children (under five are free); waterfall €6 per adult and €3.50 for children five and over. Tickets can be purchased online. Facilities: Bespoke shopping at the Avoca Stores, Global Village, Design Loft and The Golf Shop. Eat at the Avoca Terrace Café, Powerscourt Golf Club Restaurant and Powerscourt Hotel. Enniskerry, Co Wicklow +353 1 204 6000 www.powerscourt.com

KILKENNY CASTLE

Strategically situated on a height along the banks for the River Nore, Kilkenny Castle stands proud at the heart of the city of Kilkenny. The original Angle-Norman castle was built for William Marshal, 4th Earl of Pembroke in the early 13th century and later became the main residence of the powerful Butler family for almost 600 years. Over the years, many additions and alterations have been made to the structure of the castle and so it displays many architectural styles. A great deal of refurbishment was carried out in the 1600s which included the planting of formal gardens with an elevated terrace, but by the early 18th century, a hiatus in the Butler family’s occupancy saw the castle fall into a state of ruin. On the return of the Butlers, elegant stables were added and the 19th-century remodelling of the castle introduced Castellated Baronial style and Ruskinian Gothic motifs until the family finally moved out in 1935. Since 1969, the castle and surrounding buildings have been in the care of the Office of Public Works and many programmes of archaeological excavation, conservation and restoration have been carried out including the addition of a modern conference centre within the medieval fabric of the Parade Tower. Open: Year round, daily from 9am to 5.30pm from June to August, 9.30am to 5.30pm in April, May and September and closing 5pm in March and 4.30pm from October to February. Price: €8 for adults and €4 for children. Facilities: Toilets, parking and the Victorian Kitchen tea-room. The Parade, Kilkenny, Co Kilkenny +353 56 770 4100 www.kilkennycastle.ie

IRELAND’S BEST

066-074_20BestCastles&CountryHouses_IB2.indd 69

69 17/01/2019 16:47

CAHIR CASTLE

Located on a rocky island on the River Suir in County Tipperary, Cahir Castle is one of Ireland’s largest and best preserved medieval fortresses. Much of the original defensive structures are still in place and the castle has retained its impressive tower and keep. First constructed in 1142, this was once the stronghold of the powerful Butler family and in the late 20th century the castle was named a National Monument and is now managed by the Office of Public Works. 30- to 40-minute guided tours can be booked in advance and visitors can also enjoy a 15-minute audio-visual movie, ‘Cahir Castle and the Story of Irish Castles’, which provides information about

DERRYNANE HOUSE

Sheltered within a woodland at the very tip of the Iveragh Peninsula in Co Kerry stands Derrynane House. Derrynane was the ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell, a great figure in modern Irish history who was known as a lawyer, politician and statesman. Having occupied the house for several generations, many relics of the O’Connell family remain in the house today and it served as one of Daniel’s greatest influences as the place where he spent his childhood and hosted many guests during his adult life and career. Today the House and 120 hectares of surrounding land make up the Derrynane National Historic Park managed by the Office of Public Works. In 1967, the House was officially opened to the public as a museum to commemorate the life of Daniel O’Connell. Visitors can view a chariot presented to Daniel by the citizens of Dublin in 1844, a collection of

the castle and offers an overview of the role of medieval fortresses in Irish history. The movie is available in multiple languages. Following the tour and movie, make your way to the top of Cahir Tower for stunning views of the Irish countryside. Open: Year round from 9am to 6.30pm in the summer months and until 4.30pm in winter. Price: Admission fees are €5 for adults and €3 for children. Facilities: Exhibitions, nearby toilets and parking. Castle Street, Cahir, Co Tipperary +353 52 744 1011 www.heritageireland.ie

silverware and his deathbed which was transferred from Hotel Feder in Genoa many years after his death on 15 May 1847. Open: Gardens open year round, daily from 10am to 4.30pm, House open weekends only. Price: €4 for adults and €3 for children. Facilities: Tea-room open in peak season, guided tours of the House and parking. Caherdaniel, Co Kerry +353 66 947 5113 www.derrynanehouse.ie

BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS

Blarney Castle, built nearly 600 years ago by Irish chieftain Cormac MacCarthy, is a world-famous landmark that has attracted millions of tourists and has become a national treasure. While many come to see the castle itself and the surrounding gardens, few pass up the opportunity to climb the steps of the tower to kiss a certain Stone of Eloquence. Blarney Castle is, of course, home to the legendary Blarney Stone which, when kissed, ensures you will never be lost for words again. World statesmen, literary greats and celebrities are among those who have flocked to the site for over 200 years to gain the gift of eloquence. The top of the castle also offers wonderful views over the 60 acres of parklands with beautiful gardens, walkways, waterways and arboretums. Enter the Poison Garden at your own risk where you will find poisonous and toxic plants from around the world, many of which were once used as herbal remedies. Open: Year round from 9am to 5pm in the winter months and 7pm in the summer. Price: €15 for adults and €6 for children. Facilities: Stable Yard Café. Blarney, Cork, Co Cork +353 21 438 5252 www.blarneycastle.ie

IRELAND’S BEST

066-074_20BestCastles&CountryHouses_IB2.indd 70

17/01/2019 16:47

20 BEST Castles & Country Houses

MUCKROSS HOUSE, GARDENS & TRADITIONAL FARMS

Killarney National Park is an area of stunning beauty, and set near the shores of one of Killarney’s three famous lakes is the 19th-centur y Victorian mansion, Muckross House. The house was designed by Scottish Architect William Burn for its occupants Henry Arthur Herbert and his wife Mary Balfour Herbert. The building was completed in 1843 and in the 1850s, work commenced to prepare the gardens for a visit from Queen Victoria some years later. The gardening tradition continued and it was in the early 20th century that the Sunken Garden, Rock Garden and Stream Garden were developed. The estate also features three traditional working farms where visitors will be transported to a very different Ireland. The farms offer an insight into 1930s and 40s Ireland when water had to be fetched daily from a well and electricity had yet to be introduced to the countryside.

Each farm is complete with animals, traditional machinery and furnishings so visitors can truly step back in time. Open: House and gardens open year round, daily from 9am to 5.30pm (7pm in July and August). The traditional farms are open from March through to October. Price: Entry to the house is by guided tour only with tickets costing €9 per adult and €6 for children (under five are free). There is an additional charge for entry to the farms with a reduced price for a joint ticket to both the house and farms. Check the website for details. Facilities: Free parking, self-service Garden Restaurant, The Walled Garden Centre, Mucros Craft Shop and free shuttle bus around the farms. The National Park, Killarney, Co Kerry +353 64 667 0144 www.muckross-house.ie

ROSS CASTLE

Located only a short distance from Killarney, Ross Castle is a spectacular example of a typical Irish Chieftain stronghold from the Middle Ages. It is uncertain exactly when the castle was built but it is thought to originate from the 15th century when it was the ancestral home of the O’Donoghue clan. The castle sits on the banks of Lough Leane overlooking Inisfallen Island and it is thought to be one of the last important strongholds to surrender to Oliver Cromwell’s forces in the 1650s. Surrounded by a fortified bawn, Ross Castle’s curtain walls are defended by circular flanked towers, two of which are still standing. A barrack building was added to the south side in the 18th century when much of the bawn was removed. Inside, the castle is furnished with examples of 16th and 17th-century oak furniture. Ross Castle is one of Killarney’s main tourist attractions and so can get very busy during peak seasons. Access to the castle and exhibitions is by guided tour taking visitors on a one-hour trip around the site. Open: Between March and October from 9.30am to 17.45pm. Price: Tickets cost €5 for adults and €3 for children. Facilities: Toilet and car parking nearby. Very steep incline to the castle site. Killarney, Co Kerry +353 64 663 5851 www.heritageireland.ie/en/south-west/rosscastle

IRELAND’S BEST

066-074_20BestCastles&CountryHouses_IB2.indd 71

17/01/2019 16:47

14 13

BUNRATTY CASTLE & FOLK PARK

Bunratty Castle is a window to the past offering visitors the opportunity to experience and explore 15th-century Ireland. The castle is Ireland’s most complete and authentic medieval castle which was built in 1942 and restored to its former glory in 1954. The site once served as a Viking trading camp back in 970AD and the current castle is the last of four to be built here by the powerful MacNamara family. The castle was restored in the 1950s when it was purchased some years earlier by Viscount Lord Gort. Complete with 15th and 16th-century furnishings, tapestries and works of art, it is now a must on the itinerary of visitors to Ireland. Tourists are also transported back to life in Ireland over a century ago at the Bunratty Folk Park – a reconstruction of village

Sitting on the shores of Lough Gill in Country Leitrim, Parke’s Castle is a beautifully restored plantation castle built in the early 17th century. There is evidence in the castle grounds of an earlier Tower House thought to have been built in the 16th century by Sir Brian O’Rourke. After sheltering survivors of the Spanish Armada in the tower, O’Rourke was wanted and eventually executed in London for high treason. A man named Robert Parke was next to occupy the site with his family and he created a larger fortress using the stones from the old Tower House. The house is protected by a bawn that stretches right to the water’s edge and Parke added a new gatehouse to the east side. The castle was abandoned in the 18th century and eventually fell to ruin before it was taken over by the Office of Public Works. An extensive renovation was completed in the 1980s which saw windows reinstated and the wooden staircase and oak roof lovingly restored. Open: Daily from 10am–6pm, April to October. Price: Admission fees to the castle grounds are €5 for adults and €3 for children. Facilities: Tea rooms are open in peak season. Kilmore, Fivemilebourne, Co Leitrim +353 71 916 4546 www.heritageireland.ie/en/north-west/parkescastle

CROM CASTLE

Located on the shores of Upper Lough Erne, Crom Castle sits in an estate spanning almost 2,000 acres. This idyllic area of parkland and wooded islands is one of the most romantic and peaceful places in Northern Ireland. The surrounding area is of great conservational importance with an abundance of wildlife, all of which can be enjoyed while walking, fishing and exploring the grounds. The castle is owned by the Earls of Erne who have occupied the estate since it was built in 1820. Crom is now managed by the National Trust and contains the ruins of the Old Crom Castle which was

life in the 19th century. Set over 26 acres, the park features rural farmhouses, village shops and streets recreated and furnished as they would have been at that time. Experience everything from a fully licensed working pub, doctor’s house and post office to the traditional jobs and crafts recreated by costumed characters. The Folk Park also features a magical Fairy Village located in a woodland area. Open: The castle and folk park is open year round, from 9am–5.30pm. The castle closes at 4pm to prepare for the nightly Medieval Banquet. Price: €11.55 for adults, €10 for children. Bunratty, Co Clare +353 61 360 788 www.shannonheritage.com/BunrattyCastleAndFolkPark

PARKE’S CASTLE

built by Scottish planter Michael Balfour in the early 17th century. Walls and towers were added to the ruins in the 19th century but the Old Castle now sits as a secluded monument. Open: Grounds open daily from 10am–6pm (7pm June to August); Visitor Centre is open until 5pm from mid-March to November. Price: £6 for adults and £2 for children. Facilities: The Little Orchard Tea-room. Upper Lough Erne, Newtownbutler, Co Fermanagh, BT92 8AJ +44 28 6773 8118 www.nationaltrust.org.uk/crom

IRELAND’S BEST

066-074_20BestCastles&CountryHouses_IB2.indd 72

17/01/2019 16:48

20 BEST Castles & Country Houses

FLORENCE COURT

Located around eight miles from the town of Enniskillen in County Fermanagh, Florence Court offers the perfect backdrop for a day of exploring for the whole family to enjoy. The estate boasts an 18th-century Georgian mansion house and gardens, and a forest park offering 15km of trails and bridal paths. The House and demesne, formerly the home of the Earls of Enniskillen (the Cole family), remains one of the most important Georgian houses in Ireland showcasing a collection of Irish furniture and one of the best examples of Rococo plasterwork in the country. It is the creation of three successive members of the Cole family who were powerful landowners in the area. The foundations were laid by Sir John Cole who named the house after his wife, Florence Bourchier Wray. The grounds also feature a pretty walled garden, ice house, sawmill and a thatched replica summerhouse. Don’t forget to visit the famous Florence Court Yew in the gardens; this treasured tree is considered the ‘parent’ of all Irish yew trees. Open: Grounds are open year round, daily from 10am to 7pm from March to November and until 4pm the rest of the year. The House is open for guided tours from 11am to 5pm from March to August. Price: Entrance to the grounds and forest park costs £6 for adults and £3 for children. House tour tickets are £4.50 for adults and £2.50 for children. Facilities: Gift shop and tearooms when the House is open. Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh, BT92 1DB +44 28 6634 8249 www.nationaltrust.org.uk/florence-court

DONEGAL CASTLE

Donegal Castle dates back to the 15th century and is located along the River Eske in the centre of the town of Donegal. For around 200 years, many of the castle buildings lay in ruins until they were almost fully restored in the 1990s. The castle was built by Red Hugh O’Donnell of the O’Donnell chieftain in 1474 and it was in the clan’s possession until they left Ireland in the early 1600s. During the Plantation of Ulster, the castle fell into the hands of English Captain, Basil Brooke, who made extensive additions to the structure. The Brooke family occupied the site until the 1670s when it was sold to the Gore dynasty. The buildings fell to ruin under the Gores before their restoration by the Office of Public Works. The castle is surrounded by a 17th-century wall and features a gatehouse; inside, it is furnished throughout with Persian rugs and French tapestries. Open: Daily from 10am to 6pm in the peak season of Easter to mid-September. The rest of the year, the site can be accessed from Monday to Thursday, 9.30am to 4.30pm. Price: 30-minute guided tours available every hour, tickets cost €5 for adults and €3 for children. Facilities: Information boards and multilanguage leaflets. Castle Street, Donegal, Co Donegal +353 74 972 2436 www.heritageireland.ie/en/north-west/donegalcastle

IRELAND’S BEST

066-074_20BestCastles&CountryHouses_IB2.indd 73

73 17/01/2019 16:48

DOE CASTLE

Doe Castle sits in a spectacular spot along the waterline deep in Sheephaven Bay. A stronghold of the Scottish MacSweeney Clan for around 200 years, Doe Castle dates from the 16th century with the Tower House believed to have been built earlier in around 1425. Doe Castle has a rich history with many a story to tell; survivors from the wrecks of the Spanish Armada were sheltered here, it served as the headquarters of Sir Cahir O’Doherty when he attacked Derry in 1608 and was once owned by George Vaughan Harte, who fought in the American War of Independence and in India. The site was eventually abandoned in 1890 when it fell to ruin but was bought by the Irish Land Commission and later the Office of Public Works in July 1934. Thankfully it is now open to the public. Open: Grounds open daily 9am–6pm. Price: Admission to the castle is free. Facilities: Coffee shop nearby. Sheephaven, Co Donegal +353 1 647 6635 www.heritageireland.ie/en/north-west/doecastle

Around every corner of Northern Ireland’s north Antrim coastline lies something special – the Giant’s Causeway, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge and Bushmills Distillery to name a few. But this rugged coast also offers up superb sandy beaches and cliff top walks presenting breath-taking views across the North Atlantic to nearby Scotland. One location that forms the perfect backdrop is Dunluce Castle which tells the story of the destruction caused by this dramatic crumbling cliff edge. This iconic ruin was first built by the MacQuillan family around 1500 but was later seized by the ambitious MacDonnel clan some 50 years later who made their mark during an era of violence and rebellion. At the beginning of the 17th century, the castle was the seat of

the earls of County Antrim who created a small town at the site. Visitors can explore the long-abandoned Dunluce Town as recent archaeological digs uncovered cobbled streets and houses. Dunluce Castle has a long and tumultuous past with many links to historic events and the odd myth and legend, the most famous being the story of the kitchens falling into the sea taking the cooks with it! Open: Year round, daily from 10am to 5pm, closes 4pm in December and January. Price: £5 for adults and £3 for children. Facilities: Tea-room, toilets, parking and tours. 87 Dunluce Road, Bushmills, Co Antrim, BT57 8UY +44 28 2073 1938 www.discovernorthernireland.com

MOUNT STEWART

The 19th-century house and gardens of the stunning Mount Stewart estate is located on the shores of Strangford Lough. Following the recent completion of a £8 million restoration programme, the house and gardens have been lovingly transformed, making this National Trust owned site a must-see attraction. In the early 20th century, Mount Stewart was home to the 7th Marchioness Edith, Lady Londonderry and her family. With a newly renovated Central Hall and Rome bedroom, the restoration work has brought back the elegance and charm of the house when it was home to the family. Exquisite collections are on display including

DUNLUCE CASTLE

works by the likes of Lawrence, Brock and Stubbs, and the most significant display of silver in the National Trust’s collection. The gardens at Mount Stewart are among the best in the world thanks to the design and planting artistry of Edith, Lady Londonderry. Open: House is open daily from 11am–5pm, formal gardens open 10am. Guided tours of the house run every 15 minutes. Price: £9.50 for adults and £4.75 for children. Facilities: Café, ice cream stand, gift shop. Portaferry Road, Newtownards, Co Down, BT22 2AD +44 28 2478 838 www.nationaltrust.org.uk/mount-stewart

IRELAND’S BEST

066-074_20BestCastles&CountryHouses_IB2.indd 74

17/01/2019 16:48

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE

25%

THE ULTIMATE GIFT BUNDLE 8 ISSUES FOR £38.10* + RECEIVE A FREE TASTING GLASS & JOURNAL + EDITOR’S CHOICE TASTINGS POSTER ALL WORTH £23.45

Never miss an issue Enjoy exclusive subscriber offers All 8 issues delivered to your door To subscribe online go to whiskymag.imbmsubscriptions.com or call us on: +44 (0) 1293 312 196 and use promotional code WX18 T&CS APPLY: DISCOUNT IS CALCULATED INCLUSIVE OF POSTAGE FOR UK, EUROPE AND ROW * PRICE QUOTED BASED ON THE STANDARD PRICE FOR A ONE YEAR SUBSCRIPTION TO A UK POSTAL ADDRESS

075_WMSubs_AD_IB2.indd 75

16/01/2019 11:39

TRUE IRISH SPIRIT

With a long history of whiskey making, Ireland is home to a number of superb distilleries. Here is a selection of our favourites for you to visit

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

076-084_10BestDistilleries_IB2.indd 76

17/01/2019 16:56

10 BEST Distilleries

TEELING DISTILLERY

The Teeling family’s relationship with whiskey started in 1782, at the beginning of the first Irish whiskey boom. Their namesake distillery, however, opened its doors for the first time in 2015 and thus became the first new distillery in Dublin for more than 125 years. Located in the heart of the city, the Teeling Whiskey Distillery has become the capital’s preeminent destination for anyone with an interest in Irish whiskey or Dublin’s longstanding association with distilling. The Teeling Distillery team have welcomed over 350,000 visitors to date, picking up several awards along the way – a testament to their dedication to crafting not only the best Irish whiskey, but the best customer

experience too. The Teeling Whiskey Distillery hosts fully guided tours, during which guests can see all of the elements involved in Irish whiskey production. All visitors to the distillery receive a guided tasting with an expert distillery ambassador and there are a variety of whiskey tasting experiences available. For example, visitors can upgrade to a Teeling Trinity tasting and sample the Teeling Small Batch, Single Grain and Single Malt, or the Distillery Select tasting to sample the full award-winning range of Teeling whiskies. Visitors can also enjoy a drink at the Bang Bang Bar or purchase distillery-exclusive items in the gift shop. The Phoenix Café, located within the distillery,

is also a great place for visitors to relax, taste locally roasted Cloud Picker coffee and enjoy some freshly baked pastries or sandwiches. Also available for events and private hire is the distillery’s Alchemy Room, Pot Still Parlour and Finishing Room, which provide unique locations to host private or corporate events. Open: Daily from 10.00am–5.40pm (last tour). Price: There are a number of tour options ranging from €15 to €150. Facilities: Phoenix Café, The Bang Bang Bar and gift shop. 13-17 Newmarket, Dublin 8, Co. Dublin +353 1 531 0329 www.teelingdistillery.com

IRELAND’S BEST

076-084_10BestDistilleries_IB2.indd 77

77 17/01/2019 16:56

THE POWERSCOURT DISTILLERY

The Powerscourt Distillery started producing new spirit in June 2018 in the Old Mill House on Powerscourt Estate, Co. Wicklow. Dating back to 1730s, this building has now been faithfully restored and extended to accommodate both production and visitor centre facilities. An adjacent warehouse for filling and storing casks helps to ensure a fully immersive distillery visitor experience. Set against the stunning backdrop of the Great Sugar Loaf and enjoying a long heritage of local craftmanship, Powerscourt has become one of Ireland’s most treasured and frequently visited estates. Located within a 30-minute drive of Dublin city centre, nourished by

pure Wicklow spring water, and enjoying a mild coastline climate, Powerscourt sets the perfect stage for distilling Irish whiskey. In November 2018 the distillery launched three new expressions of Irish whiskey under its Fercullen brand: Fercullen 14 Years Old single malt whiskey, Fercullen 10 Years Old single grain whiskey and Fercullen Premium Blend Irish whiskey. The old Irish name ‘Fercullen’ is given to the mountainous region of Powerscourt Estate and its use dates back to at least the 1300s. These three new whiskeys have been released by award-winning master distiller Noel Sweeney (pictured), whose experience and global recognition sit

comfortably in a place renowned for attention to detail, craft and vision. Having carefully selected the aged stock used to craft these new expressions, Noel also helped to design the new plant, where he is responsible for all liquid production. Open: From Spring 2019, open daily. Winter opening arrangements may vary. Please refer to the website to plan and book your tour. Price: Guided tours from €15. Facilities: Six tasting rooms, a distillery giftshop, and café/bar. Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, Co.Wicklow +353 1 506 5656 www.powerscourtdistillery.com

IRELAND’S BEST

076-084_10BestDistilleries_IB2.indd 78

17/01/2019 16:56

10 BEST Distilleries

TULLAMORE D.E.W. DISTILLERY

Named after Daniel E. Williams, production of Tullamore D.E.W. has taken place all over Ireland, initially at Daly’s Distillery in Tullamore, then Powers in Dublin, Midleton Distillery and Bushmills. Only in late 2014, upon its acquisition by William Grant & Sons, did Tullamore D.E.W. have its own distillery, in Clonminch, on the outskirts of Tullamore. In October 2017, the company opened a new grain distillery and botting hall so every stage of production could take place on one site, making Tullamore D.E.W. a true grain to glass whiskey. Behind Jameson, Tullamore D.E.W. is the biggest selling Irish whiskey brand. Set inside Tullamore D.E.W.’s Old Bonded Warehouse in the town of Tullamore, the visitor centre welcomes the public to follow the footsteps of Daniel E. Williams as he goes from stable boy to distillery manager. A variety of tours are available, with the centre also incorporating a gift-shop and restaurant. Open: Monday to Saturday from 9.30am to 6pm, Sundays and Bank Holidays from 11.30am to 5pm. Price: Tour options range from €16 for the Curious Taster's Journey to €90 for the Ultimate Distillery Experience. Facilities: The Bond Restaurant and gift shop. Bury Quay, Tullamore, Co. Offaly +353 57 932 5015 www.tullamoredew.com

IRELAND’S BEST

076-084_10BestDistilleries_IB2.indd 79

79 17/01/2019 16:56

GLENDALOUGH DISTILLERY

This is one to watch out for! Distilling in Ireland has gone through something of a revival in recent years and Glendalough Distillery's founders have very much been a part of the movement. Set up by a group of friends who share a deep passion for Ireland’s craft distilling heritage, the idea behind Glendalough Distillery is to make innovative spirits while staying true to Ireland’s distilling traditions. The Glendalough area is renowned for its early medieval monastic settlement that was founded in the 6th century by St Kevin, a legendary monk and the man on the distillery's bottles. The craft of distilling spirits was nurtured in Irish monasteries

around this time. The company started its impressive portfolio with poitín before moving on to whiskey and most recently its seasonal, wild botanicals gin. Glendalough Distillery is not yet open for regular tours but can be visited as part of full-day 'Meet the Makers' tours. However, you can still get your hands on their products from The Craft Shop at nearby Glendalough Hotel. Open: Not yet open to the public, see website and social media for updates. Facilities: Glendalough Hotel, Craft Shop and Glendalough Monastic Site is a 30-minute drive from the distillery, (see page 59 for details). www.glendaloughdistillery.com

IRELAND’S BEST

076-084_10BestDistilleries_IB2.indd 80

17/01/2019 16:56

10 BEST Distilleries

THE JAMESON EXPERIENCE

Jameson's world-famous Irish whiskey was originally distilled at the Bow Street Distillery in Dublin. The brand was born in the 1780s when Scottish businessman John Jameson moved to Dublin with his wife, Margaret Haig, to manage the distillery that was owned by her uncle. In 1975, production moved to the Midleton Distillery in Cork, an enormous facility built by Irish Distillers to produce its many brands. The move ended nearly 200 years of Jameson production in Dublin, but visitors can continue to visit a museum at the old site which offers tours and tastings. With Midleton in Cork now home to Irish Distillers’ many brands, including Jameson,

Midleton, Powers, Redbreast and Paddy, the impressive facility is well worth a visit. The Jameson Experience is a guided tour which brings the stories of Jameson’s heritage to life. Tours last 75 minutes and include a look around the distillery buildings and a toast to the founder with a sample of the famous spirit. Open: Daily from 9am–6pm March to October and 10am–6pm November to February. Price: €20 per adult and €10 for under 18s. Facilities: Gift shop. Midleton, Co. Cork +353 21 461 3594 www.jamesonwhiskey.com

WALSH WHISKEY DISTILLERY

Family-owned Walsh Whiskey Distillery was set up by founders Bernard and Rosemary Walsh following the success of their Hot Irishman company, which developed a recipe to create the perfect Irish coffee. They then went on to create The Irishman Irish Cream Liqueur which saw a turning point in their success as they signed a long-term agreement with Irish Distillers to produce their own whiskey. Having launched The Irishman Whiskey in 2007 and then Writers’ Tears in 2009, the company’s success prompted a relaunch in 2013 to properly reflect the brands’ premium quality. Also that year came the announcement of the construction of a €25 million facility at the idyllic Royal Oak, Co. Carlow. Building work began in 2014 for a new distillery, warehouse and visitor centre that marked a new era for the company. Walsh Whiskey Distillery produces all types of Irish whiskey – malt, grain and pot still – in the one still house, making this a must-visit for distilling enthusiasts. Open: Tours are available from Tuesday to Saturday at 10am, 12pm and 3pm and on Sundays at 12pm and 2pm. Price: A number of tour options are available ranging from €15 to €40 per person. Royal Oak, Co. Carlow +353 59 913 3232 www.walshwhiskey.com

IRELAND’S BEST

076-084_10BestDistilleries_IB2.indd 81

17/01/2019 16:56

SLANE WHISKEY

The recently opened Slane Distillery can be found in the historic grounds of Slane Castle in the Boyne Valley. Brown-Forman, a leader in American whiskey since 1870, in collaboration with the Conyngham family of Slane, began construction of Slane Distillery in late 2015 and introduced Slane Irish Whiskey in mid2017. This unique, triple-casked blend of Irish whiskey was sourced from other Irish distilleries and then matured using Slane Distillery’s signature 'Triple Casked' method, which uses virgin oak, seasoned whiskey and sherry casks. Now in full production, Slane Distillery has capacity to produce 600,000 cases of premium Irish whiskey per year. The working distillery features timber washbacks, state-of-the-art column stills, hand-beaten copper pot stills and a small maturation warehouse, while the adjoining visitor centre offers an interactive and immersive journey through the fabric of the Conyngham family tapestry and ancient art of whiskey making. Open: Year round, daily from 10am–5pm. Price: From €18 for a standard tour to €60 for tour including 'bottle your own'. A combined distillery and castle tour is available for €27. Facilities: The adjacent Slane Castle is home to the Gandon Room Restaurant & Browne's Bar. Slane, Co. Meath +353 46 903 0600 www.slaneirishwhiskey.com

IRELAND’S BEST

076-084_10BestDistilleries_IB2.indd 82

17/01/2019 16:56

10 BEST Distilleries

KILBEGGAN DISTILLERY

Distilling at Kilbeggan has a long and varied history, which started over 260 years ago when the distillery opened its doors in 1757. The Old Kilbeggan Distillery is the oldest licensed distillery in Ireland and was founded by Matthias McManus. The company went through various ownerships before production ceased in 1957, at a time when much of Ireland’s whiskey production fell silent. However, John Teeling (then of Cooley Distillery) managed to revive distilling at Kilbeggan in the late 80s and it continues today. A visit to Kilbeggan Distillery is truly stepping back in time as you discover artisanal whiskey distilling at its finest. Meet the families that owned the distillery, see the old equipment in its original positions and stroll across the courtyard to experience modern-day distilling.

Open: Year round, daily from 9am–6pm (check the website for tour times). Price: There are a number of tour options with prices ranging from €14 to €80, all of which include a sample of Kilbeggan’s awardwinning whiskey. Facilities: Whiskey bar and gift shop. Lower Main Street, Kilbeggan, Co. Westmeath +353 57 933 2134 www.kilbeggandistillery.com

BUSHMILLS DISTILLERY

Initially registered as a distillery in 1784, Bushmills Distillery survived devastating fires and world wars to celebrate 400 years of whiskey production in the small Northern Irish town of Bushmills. Family and friends have worked here for generations, keeping to the company philosophy that handcrafting small batches is the way to produce beautifully smooth Irish whiskey. Each year production exceeds four million litres of alcohol, triple distilled in the traditional Irish method. Substantial investment means the distillery has 10 stills running, producing a range of single malts at 10, 16 and 21-years-old, along with Original and Black Bush, two of its more notable blends. Bushmills Distillery welcomes around 120,000 members of the public through its doors every year, with guided tours offering insights into a working distillery and tutored whiskey tastings. Tours conclude with a dram in the distillery’s 1608 Bar. Open: 9.15am–4.45pm Monday to Saturday during the months of March to October (opens 10am in winter months), 12pm to 4.45pm on Sundays. Price: Tours cost £8 for adults and £4.50 for children (8-17 years old). Facilities: Specialist whiskey shop, bar and gift shop. 2 Distillery Road, Bushmills, Co. Antrim, BT57 8XH +44 28 20 733 218 www.bushmills.com

IRELAND’S BEST

076-084_10BestDistilleries_IB2.indd 83

83 17/01/2019 16:56

ECHLINVILLE DISTILLERY

Opened by Shane Braniff in May 2013, Echlinville Distillery became Northern Ireland’s first new licensed distillery in over 125 years, nestled on the historic Echlinville estate. Thankfully, the wait for the first spirit was just a fraction of that time, coming only weeks later. A new stillhouse was opened in late 2015, scaling up production capacity. Notably, Braniff and Echlinville Distillery revived the Dunville’s brand of blended whiskey. Encasing its new stillhouse in glass, the intention was to provide Echlinville Distillery with a visitor centre within which the

public could enjoy a maximised view of the surrounding countryside, whilst showcasing the distillery’s copper pot stills and craftsmanship. Since April 2016, tours of the distillery have been available to the public, who can sample some of Echlinville’s award-winning gins and whiskeys at its conclusion. Open: Tours are available on request by calling or emailing the distillery (info@echlinville.com). 62 Gransha Road, Newtownards, BT22 1AJ +44 28 42 738 597 www.echlinville.com

IRELAND’S BEST

076-084_10BestDistilleries_IB2.indd 84

17/01/2019 16:56

WHERE TO BUY Whiskey

WHERE TO BUY: WHISKEY After visiting Ireland's best distilleries, why not pick up a bottle to take home?

THE DISTILLERY STORE At The Distillery Store, they know whiskey. With years of experience under their belts, the Distillery Store team specialise in everything from Ireland’s creamy Pot Still style to Scotland’s best peated single malts and the distinctive, complex Japanese whiskies. Looking for a glass of whiskey or a bottle to take home? The Distillery Store staff are on hand to share their knowledge and passion with every visitor that crosses the threshold. With this in mind, they provide bespoke and VIP tastings that cater for

groups and events of all sizes. Located next door to The Temple Bar Pub and open seven days a week, be sure to go in and try one of their whiskey and food pairings or just have a glass of Laphroaig 10 with oysters, which are delivered fresh every day. Visitors can now bottle their own Temple Bar Cellar Cask whiskey in store too. From how whiskey is made, to its history and the current trends coming out of the whiskey industry, the Distillery Store team are there to answer any question you

might have. Get an insight into whiskey from grain to glass from these dedicated experts, who are on-hand seven days a week to guide you on your ongoing and exciting journey of whiskey discovery. Open: Mon–Thurs, 11am–11pm Friday–Saturday, 10:30am–12:30am Sunday, 12pm–11pm /thedistillerystore @thedistillerystore @distillerystore

IRELAND’S BEST

085-086_WhereToBuy_IB2.indd 85

85 17/01/2019 11:23

CELTIC WHISKEY SHOP Nestled in the heart of Dublin city centre, the award-winning Celtic Whiskey Shop is Ireland’s premier one-stop drinks emporium; owned and managed by Alistair Alpine, who over the years has developed strong ties with Irish whiskey and spirit producers. The shop’s whiskey and spirit specialists serve up free instore tastings daily and have been equipped with a wealth of drinks knowledge that they are only too happy to share. The shop can be divided into two halves: one side boasting a most comprehensive whiskey range, including exclusive distillery bottlings and the awardwinning Celtic Cask range. This section also houses a superb selection of Armagnacs, grappas, gins, rums and plenty in-between – all of which can be shipped internationally. Meanwhile, the other side of the store has one of Ireland’s most eclectic wine selections, over 95 per cent of which has been directly sourced from some of the world’s very best vineyards. The Celtic Whiskey Shop also plays a pivotal role in the Irish drinks industry’s calendar through organising key events such as the Irish Whiskey Awards, Whiskey Live Dublin and Gin Experience Dublin. In March 2016, Celtic Whiskey Shop also

launched their first bar, the Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder in Killarney. The bar hosts Ireland’s largest whiskey collection, with around 1,200 whiskeys from across the globe, artisan Irish gins, craft beer, bistro-style food and daily drinks masterclasses. The most recent venture from the Celtic Whiskey brand, however, is the launch of Celtic Whiskey Auction. This is an online auction site created by Ireland’s leading Irish whiskey experts for the benefit of the world's whiskey enthusiasts and collectors. Auctions predominantly feature Irish whiskey, as well as Scotch and world whiskies, spirits and wine. Check the website for details on the next upcoming auction! Open: Mon–Wed, 10.30am– 8.00pm Thurs,10.30am–9.00pm Fri–Sat, 10.30am–8.00pm Sun, 12.30pm–7.00pm Bank Holidays, 12.30pm–7.00pm 27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin, 2 +353 1 675 9744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com www.celticwhiskeyauction.com /CelticWhiskeyShop @CelticWhiskey @CelticWhiskeyDublin

IRELAND’S BEST

085-086_WhereToBuy_IB2.indd 86

17/01/2019 11:23

087-CelticWhisky-AD-IB2 .indd 87

16/01/2019 11:40

1 OVER LAND AND SEA A selection of our favourite Irish tours and cruises

IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Ireland’s east coast is a window to the country’s mystical Celtic past, featuring some of the oldest sites ever discovered on the island. The area is a hotbed of primeval and archaeological treasures, including Celtic high crosses and passage tombs carved with 6,000-year-old artwork. A day trip to the Boyne Valley, starting at Suffolk Street in Dublin, showcases the best of Ireland’s ancient east. The first stop is the Loughcrew Cairns passage tombs, where a guide leads visitors through winding stone passageways to see the remarkable wall art. Next, journey through beautiful countryside towards the ancient town of Trim and marvel at Trim Castle, the largest Anglo-Norman structure in Ireland built in the 12th century along the River Boyne. From here, the trip takes in the Hill of Tara which was used as far back as the Stone Age for rituals and festivals and is one of Ireland’s most prized and sacred archaeological sites. The tour then continues north past Slane Castle and on to Monasterboice to see a fine example of Celtic stonework, the Celtic High Cross of Muiredach. Finally, take to the streets of the ancient town of Drogheda, where you will learn about its rich and colourful past while enjoying free time to discover the culture and sights. The trip returns to the starting point in Dublin in the evening. Tour operators: Irish Day Tours, www.irishdaytours.ie. Prices from: £18/€20. Duration: Approx. 10 hours.

IRELAND’S BEST

088-092_10BestTours&Cruises_IB2.indd 88

17/01/2019 14:46

10 BEST Tours & Cruises

DUBLIN GRAVEDIGGER GHOST TOUR

During a trip to Dublin, many people fall for the city’s charm and vibrancy, joining in the ‘craic’ in the Temple Bar area and trying their first Guinness at the ‘Home of the Black Stuff’. However, every city has its dark side with stories of disease, conflict and hard times – and Dublin is no exception. Delve into the city’s haunted and gruesome past, by joining the Gravedigger Ghost Tour to learn all about the devastating effect of the medieval plague by visiting eerie sights with your spooky local guide who tells chilling tales along the route. As evening falls, the tour sets off from College Green by bus past Dublin Castle and Christ Church to the first location of St Audoen’s Church, one of the most haunted

spots in Dublin! Next, it’s on to Kilmainham Gaol, where many have died since it was built in the late 18th century, leaving resident ghosts still wandering the jail. The tour continues with a stop at Bully’s Acres graveyard, where your guide will recount tales of local grave robbers snatching bodies from here since the cemetery opened. After all that, it’s time for a well-earned ‘ghoulish brew’ at the Gravediggers Pub before the return trip via Black Church. Tour operators: Hidden Dublin Walks & Tours, www.hiddendublinwalks.com; The Gravedigger Ghost Tour, www.thegravedigger.ie. Prices from: £22/€25. Duration: Approx. 2 hours.

DUBLIN VIKING DUCK TOUR

What better way to see the city of Dublin, than a tour over land and water aboard an amphibious remodelled World War II vehicle known as a ‘duck’? The tour is fun for all the family, as everyone takes on the role of Vikings with comical hats and Viking roars led by your entertaining local guide. This alternative sightseeing experience starts at St Stephen’s Green North and passes many of Dublin’s top attractions including; Christ Church and St Patrick’s cathedrals, Dublin Castle and Mansion House, the official residence of the capital’s Lord Mayor. Explore the heritage of this vibrant and culturally rich city, as tour guides offer insightful and engaging commentary about Dublin’s history and most iconic sights. Towards the end of the route, prepare for a splash as your vehicle transforms into a boat and takes to the waters in Dublin’s Grand Canal Dock. From here, your Viking ship cruises back to the starting point to bid farewell to your fellow Norse seafarers. Tour operators: Viking Splash Tours, www.vikingsplash.com. Prices from: £15/€17. Duration: Approx. 75 minutes.

IRELAND’S BEST

088-092_10BestTours&Cruises_IB2.indd 89

89 17/01/2019 14:46

CORK & BLARNEY CASTLE BY RAIL

Starting at Dublin’s Heuston Station, this cultural and historical day trip journeys through the Irish countryside by rail until reaching the city of Cork. From here, a short coach trip takes visitors out to the famous Blarney Castle, a medieval stronghold of southern Ireland and home to the legendary Stone of Eloquence, the Blarney Stone. For over 200 years, people have climbed the steps of the castle to kiss the stone, so as never to be lost for words again. Next, visit the village of Blarney for lunch and shopping before returning to Cork for a tour of the city. The trip concludes with a stop at the historic town of Cobh located just 20 minutes from Cork on the coast. Cobh was the departure point for 2.5 million of the six million who emigrated to North America between 1848 and 1950 including Annie Moore and her two brothers who were the first to be processed at New York’s Ellis Island. Known as Queenstown at the time, this was also the final port of call for the Titanic before her maiden and, tragically, final voyage. On arrival at Cobh, visitors make their way around the Queenstown, Story Heritage Centre and the restored Victorian railway station before boarding the train for a relaxing return journey to Dublin. Tour operators: Railtours Ireland First Class, www.railtoursireland.com. Prices from: £47/€54. Duration: Approx. 13 hours.

DOLPHIN & WHALE WATCHING

A cruise around Dingle Bay is the perfect way to enjoy Ireland’s stunning coastline while experiencing the thrill of sighting whales, dolphins and other wildlife in their natural habitat. Starting in Ventry Harbour, near the small port town of Dingle on southwest Ireland’s Dingle Peninsula, passengers hop on board a tour boat for a three to four-hour cruise around the bay, via the most western point of Europe, Slea Head, and out towards Great Blasket Islands. From here, it’s cameras at the ready as humpback whales, dolphins, grey seals, basking sharks and puffins may all make an appearance during this incredible trip. No two tours are the same as skippers

often vary the route according to wildlife distribution and sea conditions, so you may be lucky enough to view Skellig Rock, the setting for some of Star Wars: The Force Awakens, and Tiaracht Lighthouse, the most westerly lighthouse in Europe. Along the route, the skipper, tour guides and wildlife experts, offer information about any points of interest while helping to spot the whales and dolphins, as well as answering any questions. Tour operators: Marine Tours, www.marinetours.ie; Dingle Boat Tours, www.dingleboattours.com. Prices from: £35/€40. Duration: Approx. 3-4 hours.

IRELAND’S BEST

088-092_10BestTours&Cruises_IB2.indd 90

17/01/2019 14:47

10 BEST Tours & Cruises

ARAN ISLANDS & CLIFFS OF MOHER

There is no shortage of sights and visitor attractions along the Wild Atlantic Way, and fitting everything in to a trip around Ireland’s stunning coastline can prove quite the challenge. Organised guided day trips offer a great solution to take in a selection of the most popular attractions in one day such as a tour of the Aran Islands and Cliffs of Moher. These trips leave from Galway, passing through the pretty villages of Ballindereen, Clarenbridge and Kilcolgan before arriving at the fishing village of Doolin to catch a ferry to Inisheer Island. Here, visitors will have some free time to explore Inisheer which is the smallest of the Aran Islands. With sandy beaches, turquoise waters, a hillfort with

a castle on top and panoramic views of the Cliffs of Moher, Inisheer is characterised by its distinctive charm. The return ferry back to Doolin passes beneath the imposing and breath-taking Cliffs of Moher, one of Ireland’s most famous natural attractions. The route back to Galway takes in spectacular views from the top of the cliffs, before passing through the Burren and Lisdoonvarna on the return journey. Tour operators: Doolin Ferr y, www.doolinferry.com; Galway Tour Company, www.galwaytourcompany.com; Lally Tours, www.lallytours.com. Prices from: £35/€37. Duration: Approx. 10.5 hours.

DONEGAL HERITAGE TOUR

Discover the heart of County Donegal’s Gaeltacht (Irish speaking) area on a seven-hour guided tour around some of the county’s most popular tourist attractions. The tour starts in either Donegal town or Letterkenny, the latter being the largest town in the county and once a major port in the area. Journey through the scenic Derryveagh mountain range and Glenveagh National Park and Castle with its beautiful gardens, lakes and woodlands. From here, the tour passes by Donegal’s highest mountain, Mount Errigal, overlooking Dunlewey Lough and the Poisoned Glen (so named due to a mistranslation of the word ‘heaven’ from English to Irish – the Irish word for ‘heaven’ is ‘neamh’ and ‘poison’ is ‘neimhe’). With panoramic views of sweeping valleys and lakes backed by imposing mountains, it’s not hard to see why this is one of the most photographed areas in County Donegal. Continue along the Wild Atlantic Way with a coastal drive along Bloody Foreland to Magheraroarty for spectacular views of Inishbofin and Tory Island. If you’re lucky enough to take the tour in the summer months, a visit to the picturesque seaside village of Dunfanaghy offers holiday vibes and a friendly buzz. Tour operators: Donegal Tours, www.donegaltours.ie. Prices from: £29/€33. Duration: Approx. 7 hours.

IRELAND’S BEST

088-092_10BestTours&Cruises_IB2.indd 91

17/01/2019 14:47

A taxi or bus tour around the city of Belfast offers an insight into the colourful past of Northern Ireland’s capital city. Guides tell the story of how Belfast grew from a collection of villages in the 17th century to being granted city status by Queen Victoria in 1888 as the city became a world leader in linen production, engineering and shipbuilding. At one time, the shipyard was the largest in the world and it was here that the city’s most famous product was built, RMS Titanic. Tours typically start in the city centre and head out towards the Harbour where visitors are greeted by the iconic twin shipbuilding cranes, Samson and Goliath, which dominate the Belfast skyline. The area is now also home to the Titanic Studios where much of HBO series Game of Thrones is filmed. The route takes in the sites of beautiful buildings including the City Hall, The Queen’s University of Belfast and the government buildings of Stormont. These tours also tell the story of Belfast’s recent and more turbulent past providing all the facts of how ‘The Troubles’ started, finished and everything in between. 35 years of conflict are depicted on murals dotted around areas of the city that were most affected, and the tour ends with a stop at the international wall with murals featuring other conflicts from around the world. Tour operators: Belfast City Tours, www.belfastcitytours.com; City Sightseeing Belfast, www.belfastcitysightseeing.com. Prices from: £5/$6. Duration: Approx. 1-2 hours.

RATHLIN ISLAND WALKING TOUR

Consider yourself a wildlife enthusiast, lover of the great outdoors, or a keen explorer of history and heritage? Then a trip to Rathlin Island just off the coast of County Antrim, Northern Ireland is a must. This place is a walker’s paradise thanks to quiet, well-surfaced roads and off-road tracks in permitted areas away from the hustle and bustle of life on the mainland. Guide, Paul Quinn, is a native of the Causeway Coast who has spent years exploring Rathlin and the lives of its inhabitants. He loves nothing more than to share this with people who have taken the ferry across to the island to uncover its secrets on foot. Paul leads organised walks customised to your own preferences which can be finalised when booking. Tour operators: Coastal Walking Tours with Paul Quinn, www.rathlinwalkingtours.com. Prices from: £8/€9. Duration: Approx. 4-7 hours, varies by route.

GAME OF THRONES

From King's Landing to Winterfell, Meereen to Dorne, any Game of Thrones fan will know their way around Westeros and many will have had the opportunity to experience the fictional continent first hand on a visit to Northern Ireland’s north coast. With many of the filming locations from the popular HBO series dotted along the North Antrim Coast, a fully guided day trip makes this a trip to remember for any visitor to the area. Departing Belfast, the tour takes in Carnlough village to see the harbour which featured in series six, the Cushendun caves, the Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Larrybane quarry and the Dark Hedges (the Kingsroad). Tour guides offer an insight

into popular characters with entertaining tales and trivia along the journey. The trip takes in areas of outstanding natural beauty and UNESCO World Heritage Sites with stunning views and photo opportunities around every corner. Whether a Game of Thrones enthusiast or not, this tour around Northern Ireland’s most famous attractions is an unforgettable experience shrouded in mystery and legend. Tour operators: Game of Thrones Tours, www.gameofthronestours.com; Irish Tour Tickets, www.irishtourtickets.com; McComb’s Coach Travel, www.mccombscoaches.com. Prices from: £25/€27. Duration: Approx. 9 hours.

BELFAST CITY TOURS

IRELAND’S BEST

088-092_10BestTours&Cruises_IB2.indd 92

17/01/2019 14:47

093-Group-AD-IB2.indd 93

16/01/2019 11:43

PICTURE POSTCARD IRELAND We scour Ireland’s shores and mountains for breath-taking scenery and walks

SKERRIES

The city of Dublin is not short of visitor attractions for a rainy day, but if you are lucky enough to encounter a window of Irish sunshine then take a drive along the coast to the seaside town of Skerries for a day at the beach. About 30km north of Dublin city centre, Skerries North Beach and South Beach offer a variety of family activities including swimming, rockpooling, walks along the promenades, play areas for children and amusements. South Strand is 2.5km of sandy beaches backed by low dunes and designated bathing water perfect for swimming or paddling, while the North Strand is more sheltered. Lifeguards are on

duty in peak season and there are plenty of restaurants and pubs nearby to refuel. Take a tour out to Rockabill, a small group of islands located off the coast, and visit the distinctive black and white striped Rockabill Lighthouse. The lighthouse was built in 1860 and was manned up until 1989 when it became fully automated. The islands are an important breeding site for roseate tern and is one of the most important colonies in Europe for tern and other seabirds. Skerries Sea Tours runs two passenger trips daily out to Rockabill – check the website for details www.skerriesseatours.ie GPS 53.581134, -6.108432

IRELAND’S BEST

094-103_20BestBeaches&MountainWalks_IB2.indd 94

17/01/2019 16:05

20 BEST Beaches and Mountain Walks

LUGNAQUILLA MOUNTAIN

At 925 metres, Lugnaquilla is Ireland’s 13th highest mountain and is located less than two hours from Dublin in the Wicklow Mountains. Hillwalkers can choose from three popular routes to the summit of Lugnaquilla, or Lug as it’s lovingly known, but the most scenic and rewarding of the three is a circular trail starting at Glenmalure and returning via Cloghernagh Mountain. This is a strenuous 15km route, but well worth setting off early to take in panoramic views of the Glen of Imaal, Glendalough, Glenmalure and further afield beyond the Irish Sea; on a clear day, it is not uncommon to spot the Llyn Peninsula and Mount Snowdon in Wales. Beginning in the Glenmalure Valley at the Baravore Car Park, the route passes the cliffs of Fraughan Rock Glen before a short but steep climb to the summit. This loop then passes over the 800-metre peak of Cloghernagh before descending through beautiful woodland taking you to the road leading back to the car park. Please note that this route is best suited to experienced walkers who are used to exposure to poor weather conditions. GPS 52.966107, -6.463414 Baravore Car Park, Cullentragh Park, Co. Wicklow

DUNMORE EAST

County Waterford in the southeast of Ireland boasts 147km of coastline, where beautiful beaches and picturesque coves are just waiting to be explored. The popular tourist and fishing village of Dunmore East is the perfect place to start as visitors will find a number of sheltered and secluded coves and beaches offering excellent conditions for swimming and snorkelling. Within the village itself there is Stony Cove, Ladies’ Cove, Men’s Cove, Badger’s Cove and Lawlor’s Strand. Councillor’s Strand Blue Flag beach is particularly popular due to its south facing position between lofty red sandstone cliffs. While the coves and beaches offer a fabulous

natural playground for all the family, the area also offers excellent facilities including toilets, a bar with a terrace overlooking the beach, a large car park and an on-duty lifeguard in peak season. Visitors are reminded to be cautious of the tide which comes right in and covers the beach. There is plenty of accommodation nearby and Dunmore East is home to some of Ireland’s finest seafood restaurants. There are also plenty of walks in the area including the Dunmore East Woods Walk – a 3km forest trail leading through the Lower Woods, Upper Woods and the Upper Village of Dunmore East. GPS 52.154239, -6.994976

IRELAND’S BEST

094-103_20BestBeaches&MountainWalks_IB2.indd 95

95 17/01/2019 16:05

Inchydoney is another of Ireland’s Blue Flag beaches and is located only a few miles from the town of Clonakilty in West Cork. The area is not short of stunning beaches, but Inchydoney is both beautiful and family friendly thanks to vast expanses of white sand, dunes, facilities and activities. Surfing is very popular along Ireland’s coastline and water sports are high on the agenda of visitors to Inchydoney. Surfing conditions are excellent here and the local Inchydoney Surf School takes advantage of the consistent waves to help beginners take to the waters, with instructors accompanying learners at all times. The school has changing room facilities and also provides wetsuits, surfboards and, if needed, boots, hoods and gloves. There are public toilets next to the beach and the nearby Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa offers local seafood dishes and treatments for those wanting to unwind after hitting the waves. A public car park is located close to the beach and lifeguards are on duty in the busy summer season making Inchydoney both accessible and safe for all the family. GPS 51.597043, -8.864102 Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa, Clonakilty, West Cork, Co. Cork

COUMSHINGAUN LOOP WALK

The Comeragh Mountains in County Waterford are the setting for one of Europe’s finest examples of a corrie, or mountain lake. Carved out by glacier movement during the Ice Age, The Coumshingaun Corrie is a natural amphitheatre of serenity and splendour which can be explored via the popular 7.6km Coumshingaun Loop Walk. The moderately easy, circular route takes around four hours to complete and traditionally starts from Kilclooney Wood where car parking is available. From here, walkers enter a gate and cross a stream before following a track to the right (north side) of the mountain. The lake itself is considered the most famous landmark of these mountains. The pair shaped body of water is about a mile long and backed by dark cliffs rising to 365 meters above the lake and forming an impressive natural dam. Endurance swimmers have been known to use the lake for cold water swimming training and the area is also popular with climbers. At one time, the cliffs here were a breeding site for Golden and White-Tailed Eagles; today keen bird watchers are more likely to spot Red Grouse, Hen Harrier, Wheatear, Siskin and Crossbill frequenting the area. The highest point of the Comeragh Mountains stands at 792 metres and is close to Coumshingaun. Here, hikers will enjoy stunning vistas over the plateau in every direction. GPS 52.250411, -7.524035 Kilclooney Wood, Kilclooney, Cutteen, Co. Waterford

INCHYDONEY BEACH

TORC MOUNTAIN

Drawing parallels to Benbulbin, Torc Mountain also has links to Irish Mythology and the legends of the giant Finn McCool who led the Fianna warriors in the 3rd century. ‘Torc’ is the Irish word for Boar, and the story goes that Finn McCool killed an enchanted boar on this mountain which is how it got its name. The route to the summit of Torc Mountain, standing at 535 metres, is popular thanks to the large wooden sleepers that make the 7.5km walk very accessible. Starting at the upper car park located about 8km from the town of Killarney, the path leads to the top where walkers can enjoy panoramic views over County Kerry. From here, many local attractions come into view including Killarney and its three lakes, Muckross House and Gardens (see also page 71), Killarney National Park and the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks mountains. Visitors can take in the wonders of the Ring of Kerry before following the path back down the mountain to return to the car park. At the base of Torc Mountain, is the famous Torc Waterfall. This is a real tourist hotspot and can

get very busy during peak season. To experience this 20-metre high waterfall at its best, visit after heavy rainfall and be sure to climb the 100 or so steps to the left of the waterfall for great views of the lakes. GPS 52.001428, -9.516809

IRELAND’S BEST

094-103_20BestBeaches&MountainWalks_IB2.indd 96

17/01/2019 16:06

20 BEST Beaches and Mountain Walks

CARRAUNTOOHIL

The MacGillycuddy’s Reeks is a mountain range that sits on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry and boasts the highest peak on the island of Ireland, Carrauntoohil. The mountain stands at 1,039 metres and offers a rewarding and challenging climb for keen hillwalkers. The most accessible and popular route among tourists is via the Devil’s Ladder which is a strenuous, linear trail. Although badly eroded in recent years, this 12km hike is the shortest and most direct, with a choice of two starting points, one at Cronin’s Yard and the other at Lisleibane. The most popular of the two is Cronin’s Yard and from there walkers follow an obvious path until crossing the river via stepping stones to reach

the Devil’s Ladder. A well-worn path and stone piles lead to the summit where a giant cross marks the top of the mountain and visitors can enjoy stunning views of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks and the Atlantic Ocean, weather permitting. Visibility can be poor at the top and walkers are reminded to take extra care when leaving the summit to retrace their steps back down the mountain. Cronin’s Yard has parking, showers, camping and tea shop facilities and the nearby city of Killarney offers plenty of accommodation and shops to stock up on supplies for the six to seven-hour trek. GPS 52.000750, -9.743480 Cronin’s Yard, Mealis, Beaufort, Killarney, Co. Kerry

COUMEENOOLE BEACH

Coumeenoole Beach in County Kerry is situated on the Dingle Peninsula and a popular stop for those travelling along the Slea Head Drive stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way. The route offers beautiful views of the Blasket Islands with many heavenly beaches along the way, including Coumeenoole Strand. Swimming is unfortunately not recommended here, however patches of perfect sandy beach and the surrounding cliffs covered in lush grass make for great walking conditions; for the keen photographer and wildlife enthusiast, photo opportunities are endless here. Coumeenoole and the surrounding area is wild and untouched so local facilities are limited. The nearest village, Dunquin (Dún Chaoin), is an Irish speaking town renowned for its surviving Gaelic culture where you will find many local traditions. This area is famed for being the location for much of the filming of David Lean’s 1970’s film Ryan’s Daughter with much of the film set left on site as a tourist attraction. GPS 52.182289, -10.184283

IRELAND’S BEST

094-103_20BestBeaches&MountainWalks_IB2.indd 97

97 17/01/2019 16:06

MOUNT BRANDON

We all know Ireland is a country steeped in myth and legend with tourist hotspots all over the island telling the stories of giants, fairies and saints. While Mount Brandon offers a challenging and scenic hike, it also has a story or two to tell along its fascinating walking routes. Thought to be named after Saint Brendon, the navigator born near Tralee in 484AD almost 1,000 years before Christopher Columbus, some believe he was the first European to discover America. Others, argue that the mountain is in fact named after the earlier pagan legend of Bran, the god of regeneration in Irish mythology. This mountain offers a true voyage of discovery along the preferred 8.5km route from the small car park at the Faha Grotto near Cloghane Village and

the town of Dingle in County Kerry. From the grotto, walkers follow a well-worn path along the slopes of the Faha Ridge before taking a lower path around the valley until some loughs come into view. A winding path leads you safely to the top of a sheer cliff face. Once at the top, it is a short, gentle walk to Mount Brandonâ€™s 952-metre summit where visitors can enjoy stunning panoramic views on a clear day. There are numerous routes to the top of the mountain so walkers can choose to return via the same path or via the Slieveglass Valley. Keep an eye out along the Faha Ridge and the valleys for World War 2 plane wreckages as there were four crashes in this area between 1940 and 1943. GPS 52.236685, -10.254023

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

094-103_20BestBeaches&MountainWalks_IB2.indd 98

17/01/2019 16:06

20 BEST Beaches and Mountain Walks

TRÁ AN DÓILÍN

The beach at Trá an Dóilín, is located near the village of Carraroe in County Galway along the famous Wild Atlantic Way. This Blue Flag beach is also known as Coral Beach and is of great conservational importance as it is made up of a fine and rare coralline algae called maerl. Trá an Dóilín is located in an area of outstanding natural beauty popular for its clear waters and rock pools, perfect for snorkelling, swimming and, of course, rock pooling. The beach offers parking, toilet facilities and changing rooms with lifeguards on duty in bathing season, making this a great location for families. As Carraroe is located within the Irishspeaking region (Gaeltacht) of Connemara, this area is well known for promoting Irish culture through song, dance and Irish summer schools. The village is famous for its traditional fishing boats known as Galway Hookers, and every August bank holiday Carraroe hosts a festival showcasing these distinctive native Irish boats. During the festival, called Féile an Dóilín, the boats race and take part in regattas along the Connemara coast – a real spectacle for the locals and tourists alike. GPS 53.250013, -9.631365

DOG’S BAY

Located only a couple of miles from the village of Roundstone in County Galway is one of Ireland’s finest beaches, Dog’s Bay. Similar to nearby Gurteen Beach, this spectacular horseshoe shaped bay boasts more than a mile of pure white, sandy beaches and crystal clear waters thanks to sand made entirely of seashell fragments rather than typical limestone. These two beaches lie back to back to form a tombolo jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean, making this an area of great ecological, geological and archaeological importance. The sand and grassland habitats are of particular interest with the beach formed by the shells

of tiny sea creatures and the grasslands made up of a rare vegetation found only along Ireland’s west coast and Scotland. The area is very popular with water sports enthusiasts and holiday makers as they are sheltered from strong currents and naturally protected by the headland. Many people flock here in the summer months to bathe, windsurf and kitesurf, and the headland offers walks with breath-taking scenery. It can be a little tricky to find the narrow road leading to Dog’s Bay and Gurteen Bay, but this location is a hidden gem worth putting your navigation skills to the test. GPS 53.381776, -9.963110

KEEM BAY

Following the signs for the Atlantic Drive will lead to Achill Island on a journey of stunning views across this wonderful landscape of mountains, cliffs and peat bogs. However, the biggest treat of all is its white, sandy beaches and nothing can prepare you for reaching the heavenly Keem Bay and its Blue Flag beach, Keem Strand. The horseshoe-shaped, secluded bay is popular in the summer months with beach-goers and walkers in the cooler months thanks to a 1.5km walk along the cliff tops towards Achill Head. The bay has a strong connection with fishing as it was once a popular spot for shark fishing. In the 1950s and 60s, these waters were teeming with basking shark which was hunted for its liver oil and sold to the aerospace industry as lubricant. The island boasts five Blue Flag beaches but facilities can be limited, so come prepared. GPS 53.967462, -10.195558

IRELAND’S BEST

094-103_20BestBeaches&MountainWalks_IB2.indd 99

99 17/01/2019 16:06

BENBULBIN

100

CUILCAGH LEGNABROCKY TRAIL

Cuilcagh Mountain sits on the border between County Fermanagh and County Cavan at a height of 665 metres above sea level within the Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark (see also page 63). The trail begins at the Legnabrocky car park, less than a mile from the entrance to the Marble Arch Caves. On departing from the car park, the route meanders through one of the largest expanses of blanket bog in Northern Ireland and has seen extensive erosion over the years caused by walkers. To combat this, and to allow walkers to continue to enjoy the stunning landscape, a new boardwalk was built with funding from the European Union to help protect and conserve the fragile habitat. The 4.6-mile Legnabrocky Trail follows the Cuilcagh Way to the summit of the mountain

with a quiet farmland track and traversing boardwalks through the scenic wilderness leading walkers to the mountain face. Here, experienced hillwalkers face a challenging ascent to the summit with a stepped boardwalk leading to a rough mountain path. After a couple of miles, the wild summit plateau and an ancient cairn that sits at the top finally come into view. At the summit, enjoy views of Lough Atona sitting at the foot of the mountain which was carved out by the last Ice Age almost 13,000 years ago. Visitors are reminded to respect the environment, by sticking to the designated paths and taking note of any closures along the route. GPS 54.250320, -7.815793 Legnabrocky Car Park, Marlbank Road, Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh

Benbulbin and the nearby peaks of Kings Mountain and Truskmore share many similarities with Mount Brandon in that these mountains are steeped in myth, legend and historic references. Sometimes referred to as ‘Yeats Country’ after the famous writer, W.B. Yeats who spent his childhood holidays in County Sligo and is buried in nearby Drumcliff, the area offers spectacular scenery which hillwalkers can explore on the moderate climb to Benbulbin Head. Forming part of the Dartry Mountains, Benbulbin is located not far from the town of Sligo in the northwest of Ireland and its highest point at 526 meters offers stunning views across Yeats Country. The distinctive plateau of Benbulbin and its unique vertical gullies makes for a fairly straightforward scramble to the table-top summit. There is no obvious track, but walkers are advised to avoid the more dangerous north face and approach the mountain by the gentle sloping south side or the slightly steeper east side. Benbulbin is the Anglicisation of the Irish name Binn Ghulbain, Binn meaning ‘peak’ and Ghulbain meaning ‘beak’ or ‘jaw’. Ghulbain is also thought to be associated with the king Conall Gulban, a son of Niall of the Nine Hostages who has links with this famous mountain. Benbulbin is also considered the dwelling place of Fianna warriors in the 3rd century where warrior Diarmuid Ua Duibne was tricked by the giant Finn McCool into fighting an enchanted bear which pierced his heart with its tusk. Like Mount Brandon, planes crashed here during World War 2 leading to many fatalities and wreckages. GPS 54.367465, -8.474445

IRELAND’S BEST

094-103_20BestBeaches&MountainWalks_IB2.indd 100

17/01/2019 16:06

20 BEST Beaches and Mountain Walks

ERRIGAL MOUNTAIN & MACKOGHT LOOP WALK

Located in the northwest of Ireland along the Wild Atlantic Way, Errigal Mountain is the highest peak in County Donegal and the Derryveagh Mountains. The mountain stands at 751 metres to the east of the village of Gweedore and overlooks Dunlewy Lough and the Glenveagh National Park. Despite its remote location, Errigal is one of the country’s most popular walking routes and a 6km loop walk offers a moderate to strenuous trip to the summit and the nearby Mackoght Mountain, also known as Wee (little) Errigal. The route begins at a car park and follows a path across boggy land before a steep climb up quartzite scree to reach the summit. On reaching the top, walkers can choose to take the same path

back down the mountain or continue along an exposed ridge walk known as ‘One Man’s Pass’ to reach Errigal’s twin peak, Mackoght. Care should be taken along the ridgeway, particularly in windy weather. Errigal is part of a chain of mountains known as the ‘Seven Sisters’ and is the steepest and most southern of the group. Beautiful panaormic views of the Seven Sisters can be enjoyed on this route on a clear day which takes around three and a half hours to complete. During a setting sun, Errigal is known for giving off a pinky glow caused by the mountain’s quartzite peak – what better way to round off an afternoon of walking in these mountains? GPS 55.035085, -8.113267

SAWEL & DART MOUNTAIN LOOP WALK

Spanning over 40 miles, the Sperrin Mountains stretch over parts of County Tyrone and County Londonderry to form the largest mountain range in Ireland. With 10 peaks reaching above 500 metres, the Sperrins are an expanse of wild, untouched undulating hills covered in heather and boggy land. Bursting with wildlife and natural habitats, this beautiful area is a favourite with walkers and nature lovers thanks to waymarked trails exploring the landscape. One of the most popular routes is a circular loop walk that takes in the highest peak in the Sperrins, Sawel Mountain, and Dart Mountain. At around 10 miles long, this is a challenging route over boggy land, but following a wire fence makes it fairly straightforward, particularly in poor weather

conditions. There is off-road parking about a mile away from a gate marking the beginning of the walk. A well-marked path leads to the summit of Sawel, which stands at 678 metres and offers views across Northern Ireland of the Foyle Estuary, Lough Neagh and the Mourne Mountains. On reaching the top, a stile on the southwestern side of the mountain leads to a fence which runs to the summit of Dart; head south from the top of Dart until reaching a bog road which will lead back to the main road and car park. While exploring the Sperrins, keep an eye out for stone circles. Over 90 sets of stone circles have been discovered which are accurately aligned to the movements of the sun, moon and stars. GPS 54.830976, -7.038611

IRELAND’S BEST

094-103_20BestBeaches&MountainWalks_IB2.indd 101

101 17/01/2019 16:06

BENONE STRAND

This multi award-winning Blue Flag beach forms one of the longest in Ireland with seven miles of golden sand and breathtaking scenery. Stunning views across Donegal can be enjoyed along this clean beach, free from rocks, seaweed and shingle, and backed by magnificent cliffs and mountains. Benone Strand is also within the Magilligan Special Area of Conservation – a real nature-lover’s paradise with one of the largest sand dune systems in the UK and Ireland, which is home to a wide range of wildlife. The beach is popular throughout the year for a variety of activities including water sports, fishing and swimming, with

102

zoned areas and lifeguards on duty in July and August for the safety of visitors. Walkers also flock to the area to trek the length of the beach from the Benone Strand car park towards Downhill and Mussenden with beautiful views of Mussenden Temple perched on the cliff edge high above. The nearby Benone Tourist Complex offers a fun-filled holiday for all the family with caravan and camping accommodation, golf, tennis, a surf school, summer events, cafés and picnic areas. GPS 55.169869, -6.872534 Benone Tourist Complex, 53 Benone Avenue, Limavady, BT49 0LQ

WHITEROCKS BEACH

Located just off the Causeway Coastal Route, this stunning Blue Flag beach is a favourite among locals and international visitors. The stunning natural location is backed by the limestone White Rocks cliffs that line this stretch of coast from Curran Strand to Dunluce Castle. Over the centuries, these soft, sedimentary rocks have been carved out to form caves and arches, some of which have been named to reflect their distinguishable shapes – Shelagh’s Head, the Wishing Arch, Elephant Rock and the Lion’s Paw are some of the headlands rising out of the North Atlantic. Caves that are only accessible from the sea are home to seabirds and a hunting ground for hawks, making this a real haven for wildlife enthusiasts. Year round, Whiterocks Beach is a magnet for water sports with revellers taking advantage of the impressive waves to surf, body board, kayak and kite surf in these bracing waters. A continuous stretch of sand to the nearby town of Portrush, known as East Strand, makes this area popular with walkers and it is not uncommon to spot a horse rider or two. Thanks to recent environmental improvements, the area now benefits from additional car parking space, board walk access to the beach, an upgraded amenity block and a new clifftop pathway leading to the popular waymarked routes of the Ulster Way and Causeway Coastal Way. GPS 55.209547, -6.658387 Whiterocks Beach Car Park, Portrush, Co .Antrim

IRELAND’S BEST

094-103_20BestBeaches&MountainWalks_IB2.indd 102

17/01/2019 16:07

20 BEST Beaches and Mountain Walks

TYRELLA BEACH

Tyrella Beach is located on the east coast of Northern Ireland within Dundrum Bay, near Downpatrick in Co Down. The award-winning Blue Flag beach is renowned for its pristine waters and clean environment making it a favourite with visitors and locals alike. The wide, flat, sandy beach is 2km long and set among a 25-hectare conservation area of mature dunes and delicate habitats which offers scenic walks and an insight into the local flora and fauna. Facilities and safety at Tyrella are excellent making it a popular choice with families and holidaymakers thanks to off-beach parking, toilets and

on-duty lifeguards during peak season. A good choice of beachfront accommodation is available ranging from caravans, bed and breakfasts and self-catering holidays homes, and a local tourist information centre provides advice on the surrounding area; take a walk along the Dundrum Coastal Path, visit Dundrum castle or play a round of golf in nearby Downpatrick. The Mourne Mountains are only a short drive from Tyrella where you might be lucky enough to enjoy stunning views across Ireland and the Irish Sea on a clear day (see Slieve Donard, right). GPS 54.252187, -5.747143

SLIEVE DONARD

At 850 metres, Slieve Donard is the highest peak in the Mourne Mountains, and indeed the highest in Northern Ireland. Reaching the summit on a clear day offers breathtaking views over Ireland, the Irish Sea and beyond to the Isle of Man and Scotland. The Mournes are known for being fairly compact and straightforward to navigate. The scenic area provides a variety of waymarked paths and facilities making these mountains a popular choice among walkers and hikers. The most accessible route to the summit of Donard is from the nearby seaside town of Newcastle. From here, the car park at Donard Park marks the beginning of the trail taking walkers along the Glen River and up through old woodland in the earlier stages of the 2.9-mile trek to the top. On emerging from the forest, the path continues along the river until it reaches the saddle between Donard and the second highest peak, Slieve Commedagh. Here, the path reaches the Mourne Wall requiring walkers to turn left and follow the wall for the final, steep ascent to the small stone tower at the summit. The Mourne Wall was built between 1904 and 1922 to mark the water catchment area of the Silent Valley Reservoir and stretches 22 miles along 15 mountains. Walkers can return via the same route following the line of the Glen River. GPS 54.181814, -5.922576 Donard Park Car Park, Newcastle, Co. Down

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

094-103_20BestBeaches&MountainWalks_IB2.indd 103

103 17/01/2019 16:07

‘LOVELY DAY FOR A GUINNESS’ Irish bars are known the world over, but only in Ireland can you capture their true essence. Here is our pick of the best pubs to enjoy great craic, good Guinness and the best live music

THE TEMPLE BAR

Visitors can expect a very sincere and heartfelt welcome at the Temple Bar Pub, the authentic home of Irish cultural heritage. Since 1840 this quintessential Dublin pub has dispensed renowned hospitality and traditions of excellence to generations of Dubliners and visitors alike. Today, The Temple Bar is famous across the globe for its traditional ambience, unrivalled vitality and for its celebrated charm and conviviality. Additionally, it has become the established home of traditional Irish music in Dublin, the pub with one of the largest selections of whiskies in Ireland and the pub with the largest selection of sandwiches in the world! But what they do best is ensuring that a visit to The Temple Bar is the best pub experience you will ever remember! The Temple Bar team take pride in their superb service and extensive knowledge of the wee dram. Stocked to the brim with a vast array of whiskeys from around the world, The Temple Bar has a dram for every palate and new rare whiskeys waiting to be discovered on each visit. Exclusive single cask bottlings include Redbreast 26 Years Old Pot Still and Powers 14 Years Old Pot Still. They even have their own award-winning single malt, The Temple Bar 15 Years Old, which was named asBest Irish Single Malt Whiskey by the World Whiskies Awards in 2018. Be sure to have a dram when you visit! The bar is open seven days a week. Mon–Wed, 10:30am–1:30am Thurs–Sat, 10:30am–2:30am Sun, 11:30am–1:00am +353 1 672 5286 www.thetemplebarpub.com

104

IRELAND’S BEST

104-109_10BestIrishBars_IB2.indd 104

17/01/2019 15:29

10 BEST Irish Bars

O’DONOGHUE’S

O’Donoghue’s in the heart of Dublin is another well-known traditional Irish music bar with a rich history. Located not far from St Stephen’s Green, the pub was originally built as a grocery store in 1789 before operating as a full-time bar when purchased in 1934 by the O’Donoghue family. Ownership has changed a couple of times since then and the pub is now owned and run by publican Oliver Barden and his family. Frequented by many a famous name, O’Donoghue’s is popular with locals and tourists alike. The walls are adorned with drawings and photos of some of Ireland’s finest musicians who have played their part in making O’Donoghue’s what it is today. The Dubliners, credited with kick-starting the crossover of traditional Irish music in the 1960s, started out performing here. They share their spot on the walls with the likes of Christy Moore, Séamus Ennis, Joe Heaney and Andy Irvine to name a few. Visitors can enjoy live music at O’Donoghue’s seven nights a week. The pub also has guest rooms so you can take in the sights of Dublin by day and unwind with a music session in the evening before resting in one of the comfortable ensuite rooms. Book early on rugby weekends as O’Donoghue’s loves to play host to the travelling support. 15 Merrion Row, Dublin, Co. Dublin +353 1 660 7194 www.odonoghues.ie

THE COBBLESTONE

There’s a common theme when it comes to the best bars in Ireland: great beer, live music, rich history, and ‘mighty craic’. The Cobblestone, located in one of Dublin’s oldest areas, Smithfield, is no exception. Owned by the Mulligan family, The Cobblestone is known for its laid back and friendly vibes. Music runs in the blood, with five generations of the Mulligan family playing traditional Irish music. It is no surprise, therefore, that the pub is built on family traditions of respect for music and culture. There are free live music sessions each night of the week but the bar also boasts a small adjoining venue,

The Cobblestone Backroom, for paid courses, classes, gigs and other events. The Backroom often presents the sounds of bluegrass, country and folk, offers singer-songwriter nights, set dancing, ceilidhs, history talks and more. Located slightly off the beaten track, The Cobblestone is easily accessible by tram (just one minute from the Luas stop) or a fifteen-minute walk from the city centre. The Guinness is worth the trek to visit this ‘drinking pub with a music problem’. 77 King Street, North Smithfield, Dublin, Co Dublin +353 1 872 1799 www.cobblestonepub.ie

IRELAND’S BEST

104-109_10BestIrishBars_IB2.indd 105

105 17/01/2019 15:29

5 4

DE BARRA’S FOLK CLUB

With 2,500km of coastal road to discover along the Wild Atlantic Way, travellers will stumble across many a hidden gem and plenty of places of interest as they journey around Ireland’s stunning coast. Upon reaching West Cork and the beautiful seaside town of Clonakilty, you may just happen upon De Barra’s Folk Club, which has earned a reputation as another of Ireland’s greatest live music venues. In the last 30 years, musicians from all genres and generations have played at De Barra’s, feeding the Folk Club’s magical history. Long standing associations with many of Ireland’s leading

106

folk artists have contributed to the world-wide renown of this little venue. Visitors and locals alike can enjoy the bar’s offerings every night of the week with a variety of entertainment, a hearty lunch menu and fine selection of brews to wash it all down. Embrace the bustling atmosphere and feast your eyes on the plethora of photos, press cuttings and musical instruments that line the walls of this wonderful Irish gem. 55 Pearse Street, Clonakilty, Co. Cork +353 23 883 3381 www.debarra.ie

TIGH NEACHTAIN

Tigh Neachtain’s bar, located in the centre of Galway city, is one of the oldest in the area and steeped in local history. The site at the corner of Cross Street and Quay Street was the former home of prominent animal rights activist Richard Martin. Since opening its doors in 1894 the bar has been a meeting place for an eclectic and diverse mix of customers. Tigh Neachtain has a strong connection with local arts and musical communities. The bar will often play host to the best home-grown talent to celebrate their wonderful offerings with old posters for plays and past festivals adorning the walls and live music every week from some of the finest Irish musicians. The bar’s food and drinks menu showcases the best from the area with oysters and wild Atlantic chowder sure to warm the cockles of your heart. Enjoy beer brewed on site and take your pick from a selection of over 130 whiskeys including both Irish and Scotch. Whether enjoying a cold beer on a sunny July day, or taking cover by the fire on a chilly winter’s night, there’s never a bad time to visit Tigh Neachtain. 17 Cross Street, Galway, Co. Galway +353 91 568 820 www.tighneachtain.com

IRELAND’S BEST

104-109_10BestIrishBars_IB2.indd 106

17/01/2019 15:29

10 BEST Irish Bars

7 6

MATT MOLLOY’S

The sound of traditional Irish music spilling from a bustling bar is commonplace around Ireland, but happen upon Matt Molloy’s in Westport, Co Mayo, and you really are in for a treat. Owned by Matt Molloy himself, famed around the world for his flute playing with The Chieftains, his pub is well known as a live music hotspot. The pub has remained small and cosy to allow a sense of intimacy during live music sessions, remaining true to this style of traditional music. Matt Molloy’s draws crowds from around the world, everyone from the famous to the obscure standing side by side to drink in its

sights and sounds; and you may even be lucky enough to spot the man himself. When Matt isn’t touring the world, he loves nothing more than to join in. For the price of pint, you can enjoy his music at what will feel like your own personal gig. With live music seven days a week, Matt Molloy’s will undoubtedly offer a taste of a traditional Irish music session. The only challenge will be making your way through the crowds to get a taste of the beer! Bridge Street, Westport, Co Mayo +353 98 27663 www.mattmolloy.com

THE BEACH BAR

‘Beach bar’ conjures images of a small shack serving up cocktails in tropical climes, but this traditional Irish bar and restaurant in County Sligo offers up a very different experience. Perched between the beautiful, unspoiled Aughris beach and the Ox mountains, The Beach Bar is an old style, thatched roof pub with a 300-year history. The family run business welcomes everyone from thirsty surfers taking cover from the Atlantic waves with a refreshing beer, to weary travellers resting tired feet by an open fire. The Beach Bar hasn’t changed much over the years making visitors feel part of its long history while still offering something to suits all tastes. Live music sessions range from modern style to an evening of toe tapping with musicians welcome to join in a traditional session every Saturday night. Local ingredients are sourced by the kitchen’s award-winning chefs to bring a wide selection of dishes to hungry guests. The local beef and fresh seafood is not to be missed at this glorious seaside location. Should visitors wish to stay the night, ensuite rooms with WiFi are available. Aughris Head, Templeboy, Co Sligo +353 71 917 6465 www.thebeachbarsligo.com

IRELAND’S BEST

104-109_10BestIrishBars_IB2.indd 107

107 17/01/2019 15:29

DUKE OF YORK

Concealed down a narrow, cobbled alleyway, the Duke of York isn’t the easiest of pubs to find in Belfast’s Cathedral Quarter, but it is certainly worth the game of hide and seek. The quaint street has become one of Belfast’s most photographed areas and so it can prove difficult to snap its beauty without capturing a photobombing tourist or two. As you await your moment, the Duke of York will offer a friendly welcome and plenty of entertainment, not to mention many a photo opportunity inside. With many modern bars and clubs in the surrounding area, this one stays true to its traditional roots. The pub has been owned by Willie Jack since the early 1980s and after being rebuilt following an explosion in 1972, the exterior mirrors the 1950s look it had before with advertising signs and hanging baskets of colourful flowers. Inside, the walls are lined with beer mirrors, trays, murals, bric-a-brac and Belfast phrases as Willie tries to preserve Belfast and Ulster’s proud brewing and distilling history. This traditional bar offers a huge selection of whiskies and beers from Ireland and beyond, and you may be lucky enough to catch a live music session from a rising star. It all started here for the likes of Snow Patrol and Una Healy from the Saturdays, who still count the Duke among their favourite places to enjoy the ‘craic’. 7-11 Commercial Court, Belfast, Co Antrim, BT1 2NB +44 28 9024 1062 www.dukeofyorkbelfast.com

108

IRELAND’S BEST

104-109_10BestIrishBars_IB2.indd 108

17/01/2019 15:29

10 BEST Irish Bars

JOHNNIE FOX’S PUB

Established in 1798, Johnnie Fox’s is one of Ireland’s oldest and most famous traditional Irish pubs. Situated high up in the Dublin Mountains in the peaceful town of Glencullen and just 30 minutes from Dublin city centre, Johnnie Fox’s is famed for being the highest pub in the country. The pub is also well known for its entertainment and in the past would have hosted many an impromptu live music session. It was also commonplace to encounter a storyteller or two who would take their place by the open fire on a cold winter’s evening to tell their tales. As well as a fine selection of

beers, spirits and wines, Johnnie Fox’s is home to an award-winning seafood kitchen which champions local artisan food producers. Sample everything the pub has to offer by booking the ‘Johnnie Fox’s Hooley Experience’ – an evening of fabulous food, lively Irish music sessions and entertainment from the pub’s famous Irish dancers. Locals and tourists alike will be welcomed by the friendly and welcoming staff for a truly memorable Irish experience. Glencullen, Co Dublin +353 1 295 8911 www.jfp.ie

MULLIGAN'S

There has been a pub at this Dublin site on Poolbeg Street since 1820, but it didn’t bear the Mulligan name until being leased by John Mulligan in 1854 for £20 a year. That said, there hasn’t been a Mulligan here since 1932 when the pub was bought by Cavan born Cusack brothers, Con and Tommy. This true Dublin pub has been perfectly preserved by its various owners throughout the years who have resisted modernisation and current pub trends; Mulligans is something of an Irish cultural phenomenon. The pub has a unique and colourful history having hosted many a famous name including Judy Garland, Seamus Heaney, James Joyce and John F. Kennedy. For decades, performers from the nearby Theatre Royal mingled with The Irish Press journalists from next door to create stories that are still regaled to this day. Just like the barmen of old, the friendly, speedy and sharp-witted staff will serve up one of the best pints of Guinness to be found in the city. For a taste of Dublin, Mulligan's has to be top of the list for both locals and tourists alike. 8 Poolbeg Street, Dublin 2, Co Dublin +353 1 6775582 www.mulligans.ie

IRELAND’S BEST

104-109_10BestIrishBars_IB2.indd 109

109 17/01/2019 15:30

A HOME FROM HOME Ireland is renowned for its warm and friendly hospitality – here is a selection of our top 10 places to stay

MARTELLO TOWER SUTTON

Martello Towers are a common feature along Ireland’s coastline, particularly the east coast, and were built by the British in the early 1800s who feared invasion of Ireland by Napoleon Bonaparte. These ‘bombproof’ round, coastal forts can be up to 40 metres high and were designed to offer protection in the event of French invasion, however the towers were never used for this purpose and it is believed they acted as a deterrent to using Ireland as a ‘backdoor’ to Britain. The towers were inspired by a similar structure at Mortella Point in Corsica and a miscommunication led to the difference in spelling of the British version. The Martello Tower in Sutton, located on the north coastline of Dublin Bay, was built in

110

1804 and was extensively renovated between 2006 and 2008 to create unique self-catering accommodation. The lower level has two bedrooms and a bathroom, the middle consists of living space and a balcony, while a stone stairwell leads to the top level where guests can enjoy breath-taking 360-degree views of the bay and surrounding landscape in the modern kitchen and dining area. The local area offers plenty of amenities including golf, sandy beaches, fishing and walking, while the city of Dublin is a 30-minute drive away where you can find many popular tourist attractions. Red Rock, Sutton, Co. Dublin +353 86 164 2671 www.martellotowersutton.com

IRELAND’S BEST

110-114_10BestPlacestoStay_IB2.indd 110

17/01/2019 15:46

10 BEST Places to Stay

THE MERRION HOTEL

The city of Dublin has a rich medieval past dating back to Viking times, and the architecture around the city is known for its elegant Georgian style. The Merrion Hotel, located in the heart of Georgian Dublin, is surrounded by some of the finest buildings, squares and streets from this golden era, and is one of the most luxurious five-star hotels in Ireland’s capital. Thanks to its central location, the hotel is close to many attractions including galleries, museums, the Dublin Convention Centre, pubs, restaurants and shops on Grafton Street. The building is a restoration of four Georgian townhouses with 142 sumptuous bedrooms and suites offering comfort and relaxed elegance. Guests can also take advantage of free Wi-Fi, an 18m pool, spa, gym and various dining options including the two-times Michelin starred Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, The Cellar Bar, The Garden Room and the intimate No 23 Cocktail Bar. The Merrion is an ideal location to host events and conferences with excellent facilities and experienced event coordinators on hand to ensure everything runs smoothly. The Pond area in the hotel’s beautiful classical gardens is available for photographs or private drinks receptions and barbecues, the perfect interlude to any event. Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2, Co. Dublin +353 1 603 0600 www.merrionhotel.com

ARIEL HOUSE GUESTHOUSE

Located in Dublin’s leafy suburb of Ballbridge, Ariel House Guesthouse is well known for its outstanding hospitality and impeccable customer service, and is considered by many to be one of the best places to stay in Dublin and even Ireland. Made up of three elegant Victorian townhouses seamlessly joined to form this charming and vibrant guesthouse, the buildings have retained many original features including bay windows, Flemish brickwork and ornate stained glass and sash windows. The main house was built in 1850, when it was owned by a wealthy shipping merchant and, while the house has seen the addition of modern facilities, it has been sympathetically restored to reflect the style of a bygone era. The guesthouse offers 37 ensuite rooms with many authentic features and Victorian inspired décor where guests can enjoy a peaceful night’s sleep in a quiet part of Dublin, while still only a short distance from the main tourist hotspots in the city centre. The award-winning breakfast made up of the finest local produce has received compliments from guests and industry critics alike and is sure to set you up for the day ahead. According to the website, the breakfasts are so good ‘you’ll want to stay another night’ – for the foodies among us, that might just seal the deal! 50-54 Lansdowne Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Co. Dublin +353 1 668 5512 www.ariel-house.net

WICKLOW HEAD LIGHTHOUSE

For centuries, manned lighthouses along Ireland’s coastline helped ships to navigate choppy seas and avoid the rugged cliffs that are a common coastal feature here. Today, all of Ireland’s lighthouses are automated and many have been restored by Irish Landmark Trust to offer unusual and quirky holiday accommodation. One such example is Wicklow Head Lighthouse, which safeguarded this stretch of the Irish Sea since 1781 and is the perfect backdrop for a unique and memorable break with panoramic views of the surrounding landscape and scenery. The lighthouse is close to many popular attractions such as the historic Wicklow Gaol, the famous monastic site of Glendalough (‘valley of two lakes’, see page 59) and the Wicklow Mountains, a walker’s paradise. The structure has six octagonal rooms comprising two double bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen, sitting room and a separate WC. Surrounded by the sea on three sides, guests will enjoy stunning views after climbing the 109 steps to the kitchen at the top of the building. Irish Landmark Trust offers a number of holiday options by the sea in restored lighthouses and keepers’ cottages including Blackhead Cutter in County Antrim, SJ Schooner and SJ Clipper in County Donegal, and JP Sloop and JP Ketch in County Down. Dunbur Head, Co. Wicklow +353 1 670 4733 www.irishlandmark.com

IRELAND’S BEST

110-114_10BestPlacestoStay_IB2.indd 111

111 17/01/2019 15:42

PARKNASILLA RESORT & SPA

This luxury Kerry hotel, set in Kenmore Bay along the Wild Atlantic Way, enjoys stunning views of the Kerry Mountains and Irelandâ€™s spectacular west coast. The resort has a rich heritage dating back to 1692, and was a favourite among literary greats including George Bernard Shaw. To this day, people are often attracted to the area for its mild climate and sheltered location where subtropical plants and vegetation flourish thanks to the effects of the Gulf Stream, as well as the 500 acres of land waiting to be explored. Guests can enjoy a wealth of outdoor activities including walking, cycling, sea swimming and golf, but if you fancy something a little more relaxing, the recently developed spa and leisure centre

110-114_10BestPlacestoStay_IB2.indd 112

has 13 treatment rooms, a thermal suite and relaxation areas. The resort offers a hotel with 85 bedrooms and suites, 24 luxurious two-bedroom self-catering lodges and 38 three-bedroom selfcatering villas located a short distance from the main hotel. The self-catering accommodation is perfectly suited for a family holiday with easy access to all the facilities and activities to keep everyone entertained throughout their stay. Indulge in delicious breakfasts and meals in the Pygmalion Restaurant or relax by the fire with a nightcap in the Doolittle Bar after a funfilled day of adventures at Parknasilla Resort. Sneem, Co. Kerry +353 64 667 5600 www.parknasillaresort.com

CROSSHAVEN HOUSE

Set in the picturesque village of Crosshaven in County Cork is the impressive 18th-century Crosshaven House, a fine example of Georgian architecture where the spaciousness and elegance of this era are combined with modern living and comforts. Crosshaven is within easy reach of parts of Irelandâ€™s Ancient East, the Wild Atlantic Way, local walkways and a range of sea activities and water sports at Cork Harbour. The area attracts everyone from the thrill seeker to those on a quiet romantic break, and Crosshaven House caters for all. Overlooking Currabinny Wood and Cork Harbour, the house offers five luxury suites each with panoramic views of the local area and gardens where guests will enjoy the homely and comfortable feel. For the more adventurous, the basement level of the house, known as 51 Degrees North, has been converted into three nautical-themed dorms accommodating more than 14 people. Dating back to the 18th century, original whitewashed walls and barrel-vaulted ceilings are exposed throughout and contrasted with abstract artwork by local artists. The hidden gem is a nine-seater cinema with surround sound and a superb collection of movies including everything from foreign art and Hollywood blockbusters to thrillers and romantic comedies. Relax in the evening in the private sauna or cook together in the self-catered country-style kitchen while reminiscing about your stay in this unique location. Crosshaven, Co. Cork +353 21 483 2005 www.crosshavenhouse.ie

17/01/2019 15:42

10 BEST Places to Stay

WINEPORT LODGE

Nestled on the banks of Lough Ree, Wineport Lodge is surrounded by native woodland in an idyllic and magical setting popular with those seeking a romantic getaway. The area is steeped in history going as far back as the 6th century, when monks regularly received delivery of wine barrels from Bordeaux in France, giving the cedar-clad lodge that now occupies the landing site its name. Wineport prides itself on offering effortless hospitality shaped by husband and wife owners Ray Byrne and Jane English. The 29 rooms and suites provide warmth, comfort and luxury with views over the lake and private balconies to watch the sunset over a glass of wine on a summer’s evening. The lodge started off as a restaurant in 1993 and as its reputation for good food grew, so too did the lodge’s offerings; however, the dining room is still considered the heart of Wineport where the food is hearty and rustic in style. The lodge also features a treatment suite for guests to indulge in a natural facial or organic seaweed body therapy before taking in those views once again in rustic outdoor hot tubs. If you can tear yourself away from the tranquillity and delights of the lodge, visit the vibrant town of Athlone where you can wander the enchanting streets of the old town, do a spot of shopping in the east and grab a bite to eat in some of the award-winning local restaurants. Glasson, Athlone, Co. Westmeath +353 90 643 9010 www.wineport.ie

MANNIX POINT CAMPING & CARAVAN PARK

For those who prefer to brave the elements and be at one with nature, Mannix Point Camping and Caravan Park in County Kerry is considered one of the best in Ireland. With a prime location on the Ring of Kerry along the Wild Atlantic Way, the site boasts 500 metres of waterfront looking out over the islands of Valentia and Beginish to the south west and backed by hills and mountains on three sides. The area is a nature lover and thrill seeker’s paradise with waymarked walks along Blue Flag beaches and clifftops, water sports, horse riding, fishing, diving and bird watching just some of the activities on offer near the camping and caravan park. Some of Ireland’s most famous tourist attractions are also very accessible including boat trips to Skellig Michael (for

the Star Wars fanatic among you) and Kerry Geo Park. Mannix Point opened as a small and basic park in 1984 and while it has expanded and developed over the years, customer care, hygiene and cleanliness remains a priority for the owners. The site offers excellent facilities including hot showers, washing machines, driers and a well-equipped Camper’s Kitchen with a spacious and comfortable dining room. Renowned for impromptu live music sessions, campers often find themselves gathered around a turf fire in the cosy sitting room for an evening of toe-tapping entertainment at this awardwinning campsite. Cahirciveen, Co. Kerry +353 66 947 2806 www.campinginkerry.com

IRELAND’S BEST

110-114_10BestPlacestoStay_IB2.indd 113

113 17/01/2019 15:43

ASHFORD CASTLE

This stunning 800-years-old castle in County Mayo is a former home of the Guinness family and one of Ireland’s top hotel destinations. On arrival at Ashford Castle, guests are greeted by grand stone gates that introduce the grounds of the estate, complete with 350 acres of ancient woodland and Ireland’s first school of falconry. The castle reopened to the public in April 2015 following a two-year renovation programme costing $75 million, which saw this 13th-century building restored to its former glory. Ashford Castle is now, once again, one of Europe’s most prestigious hotels, and guests are invited to stay in one of the 83 luxurious rooms, suites and hideaway cottages, while marvelling at the

exquisite interior and taking advantage of the state-of-the-art spa facilities. You may even spot a familiar face as the hotel often hosts royalty, dignitaries and celebrities who come to enjoy this fivestar experience offering fine dining and a wealth of activities on their doorstep. Get involved in everything from water sports, fishing, tennis and golf to horse riding, archery, tree climbing and clay pigeon shooting. Whether seeking a romantic break, a family getaway, or an elegant and impressive event location, Ashford Castle can cater for all. Cong, Co. Mayo +353 94 954 6003 www.ashfordcastle.com

THE DOLPHIN HOTEL

For many, escaping the hustle and bustle of everyday life means jetting off to a faraway island retreat, but a quick ferry trip to Inishbofin Island just off the beautiful Connemara coast can offer all the R&R of the tropics, without the travel and expense. The friendly, family-run Dolphin Hotel and Restaurant is set on the magical island of Inishbofin, just 90 minutes from Galway city and easy to access with several ferry sailings every day. The hotel is well known for its warm island welcome and delicious food, and is the perfect base for a fun family holiday, romantic getaway or activity break. In 2000, islander Pat Coyne and his sister, Cathy, opened the Dolphin Restaurant which evolved into a hotel and restaurant in 2006. The hotel provides 11 comfortable double, triple and family rooms as well as the spacious and beautifully renovated two-storey Blue Jackets cottage overlooking Inishbofin Harbour. The restaurant is famed for its fresh, local seafood and homemade desserts, perfect after an action-packed day of exploring the many things to do on this island. Choose from walking, fishing, cycling, scuba diving, snorkelling and bird watching to fill your days before unwinding over a hearty dinner and traditional live music session in the evening. It won’t take long to adjust to island life on Inishbofin! Inishbofin Island, Co. Galway +353 95 45 991 www.dolphinhotel.ie

114

IRELAND’S BEST

110-114_10BestPlacestoStay_IB2.indd 114

17/01/2019 15:43

SUBSCRIBE TODAY

JU ST £36.00* FOR 8 IS SUES & FREE SCOTL AND MAGA ZINE

EASY WAYS TO ORDER

GO TO whiskymag.imbmsubscriptions.com/BL19 CALL +44 (0) 1293 312 196 and quote BL19 FOR ALL THE LATEST SUBS OFFERS IN THE U.S AND CANADA GO TO www.whiskymag.com/uscansubs TO VIEW ALL INTERNATIONAL POSTAL RATES, GO TO whiskymag.imbmsubscriptions.com *Saving quoted based on the standard price for a one year subscription to a UK postal address

SAVE UP TO 25% • NEVER MISS AN ISSUE • DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR

IBC-WMSubs_PlusSM-AD-IB2.indd 115

11/01/2019 17:06

IFC-Teeling-AD-IB2.indd 2

11/01/2019 17:07

From Game of Thrones country along the stunning north coast to the Wild Atlantic Way in the south, Ireland’s Best is your companion as you explore everything the magical island of Ireland has to offer. Let our detailed maps guide you through 20 visitor attractions, 20 castles and country houses, 10 distilleries, 10 tours and cruises, 20 beaches and mountain walks, 10 Irish bars, and 10 beautiful places to stay in:

LEINSTER

MUNSTER

CONNACHT

ULSTER

£9.95 IRELAND’S BEST VOLUME 2 WORLD’S BEST SERIES

OBC_Cover_IB2-UK.indd 116

17/01/2019 10:35