Iconic Places and Fascinating Facts 2020

ICONIC PLACES & fascinating facts

Britain in focus Stunning scenery and man-made marvels

Strange but true

Discover quirky facts about your favourite sights

A SUPPLEMENT TO BRITAIN – THE OFFICIAL M AGAZINE

contents

Welcome

Creating this special supplement involved the making of many lists. An inventory of Britain’s iconic sights became ever longer as more and more must-sees were added; even with a hundred pages at our disposal, we would have had no trouble filling them.

What you see on these 32 pages is our final edit across three categories: lovely landscapes (we were especially spoilt for choice here, from the otherworldly Giant’s Causeway to the wild beauty of Scotland’s Western Isles, and much more besides); man-made marvels – a roll call of world-famous structures, from St Paul’s Cathedral to Oxford’s Radcliffe Camera; and ancient wonders, from Hadrian’s Wall to mysterious Stonehenge.

The decision-making over, we got to the fun part: gathering fascinating facts that, however familiar these much-loved sights may be, might just surprise you.

I certainly learnt a thing or two – I hope that you do too!

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LOVELY LANDSCAPES Britain is blessed with stunning scenery, from the plunging White Cliffs of Dover to the craggy summit of Snowdon and the still, serene landscape of the Lake District. Beautiful views guaranteed.

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MAN-MADE MARVELS From castles and cathedrals to a wonder of modern engineering in the form of the Glenfinnan Viaduct, beloved of Harry Potter fans, the structures on these pages are some of Britain's finest.

PHOTO: © JOANA KRUSE/ALAMY/VISIT BRITAIN/JOE CORNISH

NATASHA FOGES, Editor ICONIC PLACES & fascinating facts

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ANCIENT WONDERS

A SUPPLEMENT TO BRITAIN – THE OFFICIAL M AGAZINE cover 3.indd 1

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Cover image: Bodiam Castle © Tomas Marek/Alamy

BRITAIN is the official magazine of VisitBritain, the national tourism agency. BRITAIN is published by The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ Tel: 020 7349 3700 Fax: 020 7901 3701 Email: info@britain-magazine.com

www.britain-magazine.com

Mysterious and beautiful, Britain's ancient sites – from the Roman beauty of Bath to mystical Glastonbury Tor – reveal fascinating, long-hidden insights about our distant ancestors.

29 Editor Natasha Foges Art Editor Clare White Production Editor Jenny Rowe Publisher Lindsay Greatbatch Chairman Paul Dobson Head of Market Natasha Syed Sales Team Sam Evanson, Lee Aden Printed in England by William Gibbons Production All Points Media

© The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd 2019 All rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers.

The information contained in this supplement has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded.

The opinions expressed by contributors to BRITAIN are not necessarily those of the publisher or VisitBritain.

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BRITAIN | ICONIC PLACES & FASCINATING FACTS

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lovely landscapes

Lovely LANDSCAPES

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Britain is blessed with stunning scenery, from craggy mountains and rolling hills to serene lakes. Beautiful views guaranteed

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lovely landscapes

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lovely landscapes

PEMBROKESHIRE, WALES The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is the only British National Park primarily designated for its coastal landscape ● It is one of the smallest National Parks, but has one of the most diverse landscapes – sandy beaches, craggy cliffs and islands, wooded estuary and hilly uplands with spectacular sea views ● The National Park has 286 Scheduled Ancient Monuments and 1,234 listed buildings ● Wherever you are in the National Park, you’re never more than 10 miles from the sea ● The Coast Path is sometimes known as the “Welsh Everest”: its ascents and descents are said to total 35,000 feet ● The Preseli Hills in the north have many prehistoric remains, and it is thought that bluestone from the hills corresponds to that used to build the inner circle of Stonehenge ● Around seven million people visit the National Park every year ● Common porpoise, dolphins, sunfish and basking sharks can sometimes be spotted around the north Pembrokeshire Coast www.visitpembrokeshire.com ●

PHOTOS: ©VISIT BRITAIN/JOHN FINNEY/BILLY STOCK /ROBERT HARDING

lovely landscapes

lovely landscapes

WHITE CLIFFS OF DOVER, KENT These iconic cliffs, formed by Ice Age floods, are up to 110 metres (350 feet) high and stretch for eight miles along the Kent coastline ● Their imposing chalky forms have seen off numerous invaders, from Julius Caesar in 55 BC to the Nazis in the Second World War ● Hidden behind the rock face are a series of tunnels created during the Napoleonic War, leading from Dover Castle. They were later connected to Winston Churchill’s military headquarters ● Two shipwrecks can be spotted at the base of the cliffs: the SS Falcon, which caught fire and ran aground in 1926, and Preussen, a German vessel shipwrecked in 1910 ● Several of Ian Fleming’s James Bond novels were written at Mermaid Cottage at the foot of the cliffs www.nationaltrust.org.uk ●

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lovely landscapes

EXMOOR, DEVON & SOMERSET Although most associated with Devon, less than a third of Exmoor is in that county, with 71 per cent in neighbouring Somerset ● Exmoor has the highest coastline on the British mainland, with cliffs that reach 314 metres (1,350 feet) ● Britain’s longest path, the South West Coast Path, starts on the Exmoor coast ● Exmoor has the largest concentration of red deer in England ● Legends abound on these windswept moors.

The most famous is the Beast of Exmoor, a large, long-tailed cat that is said to roam the rugged countryside www.visit-exmoor.co.uk

PHOTOS: © VISIT SCOTLAND/PAUL TOMKINS/SOLENT NEWS AND PHOTOGRAPHY AGENCY/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ANNA STOWE LANDSCAPES UK/ALAMY

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OUTER HEBRIDES, SCOTLAND ● The Outer Hebrides are also known as the Western Isles: a 130-mile-long archipelago of around 220 islands ● The Outer Hebrides were ceded to Scotland in 1266 but it wasn’t until 1493 that King James IV asserted Scotland’s military control over the islands ● Over 6,000 lochs are spread over the Western Isles ● With only 26,830 inhabitants – an average of 9 people per square kilometre – the Western Isles are one of the most sparsely populated areas in Scotland ● The world-famous Lewis Chessmen – carved ivory chess pieces discovered on the Isle of Lewis in the early 19th century – reside in the British Museum and the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk BRITAIN | ICONIC PLACES & FASCINATING FACTS

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lovely landscapes

lovely landscapes

GIANT’S CAUSEWAY, NORTHERN IRELAND The Giant’s Causeway is 50 to 60 million years old, the result of an ancient volcanic eruption ● Some 40,000 interlocking basalt columns make up this awe-inspiring World Heritage Site ● It’s called “The Giant’s Causeway” because as legend has it, Irish giant Finn McCool created it in order to cross to Scotland so he could go into battle against his enemy Benandonner ● The site is thought to have been discovered by the Bishop of Derry, who visited in 1692 ● Tourists began to flock to the area in the 19th century, when the Giant’s Causeway Tramway made it accessible ● The height of the tallest columns reaches 12 metres (39 feet) ● Most of the stone pillars are hexagonal, but some have four, five, seven or eight sides ● Some of the columns, weathered over millions of years, resemble objects, such as the Organ, the Giant’s Boot and the Camel’s Hump ● Managed by the National Trust, the site is a haven for seabirds such as cormorants, guillemots and razorbills ● The Giant’s Causeway is Northern Ireland’s most popular sight, with over a million visitors each year www.nationaltrust.org.uk ●

lovely landscapes

LAKE DISTRICT, CUMBRIA The Lake District holds England’s deepest lake: Wastwater, at 74 metres (243 feet) ● Most of the area’s “lakes” are actually “meres” or “waters”: the only official lake is Bassenthwaite ● Poet William Wordsworth published his Guide through the District of the Lakes in 1810, which sparked the beginnings of tourism to the area ● Scafell Pike, tallest of the area’s many peaks, was part of the “Great Gift” of 1919: one of 13 mountains to be donated to the National Trust to commemorate those lost in the First World War ● The area’s must-try dish is the coil-shaped Cumberland sausage, which has protected status www.lakedistrict.gov.uk ●

MOUNT SNOWDON, WALES Wales’s highest mountain (1,085m/3,650ft) was used by Edmund Hillary when training for his Mount Everest expedition ● The name Snowdon derives from the Saxon “Snow Dun”, which means “snow hill”: Snowdon has a dusting of snow for much of the year ● On fine days, it is possible to see England, Scotland, Ireland and the Isle of Man from the summit ● According to Welsh folklore a giant named Rhitta Gawr, who was killed by King Arthur, is buried on the summit ● The Snowdon Railway Line opened in 1896 and is the only public rack and pinion railway in Britain www.visitwales.com ●

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PHOTOS: © JORGE TUTOR /AL AMY/SHUTTERSTOCK /LOOP IMAGES LTD/AL AMY/JOHN R AWSTERNE

lovely landscapes

CHEDDAR GORGE, SOMERSET England’s largest gorge, Cheddar Gorge is almost 400 feet deep and extends for three miles ● The National Trust owns the north side of the gorge, while the south side is administered by the Marquess of Bath’s Longleat Estate ● Cheddar cheese is still made in the gorge’s extensive cave system.

The caves’ temperature of seven degrees provides the perfect temperature for the cheese to mature ● Britain’s oldest complete human skeleton, Cheddar Man, estimated to be over 9,000 years old, was discovered in the caves in 1903 ● As well as its cheese, Cheddar was once renowned for its strawberries.

A railway line known as the Strawberry Line was built to meet demand for the local berries from cities such as London and Birmingham www.cheddargorge.co.uk ●

man-made marvels

Man-made MARVELS

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From castles and cathedrals to wonders of modern engineering, the splendid structures on these pages are some of Britain's finest

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man-made marvels

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man-made marvels

HAREWOOD HOUSE, WEST YORKSHIRE The Lascelles family, for whom Harewood House was built in 1771, still reside in the house today ● The correct pronunciation of Harewood is Harwood, as the original medieval spelling didn’t have the ‘e’ ● Harewood contains the country’s best collection of Thomas Chippendale furniture. The greatest British furniture maker of the 18th century was commissioned in 1767 to create all the furniture for the house – a job worth over £10,000 today ● The artist JMW Turner visited aged 22 and left a number of watercolours, still in the house’s collection ● In 1922 the 6th Earl of Harewood married Princess Mary, daughter of George V and Queen Mary, making Harewood a royal residence. Many of her personal items are still in situ ● The house was used as a convalescent hospital in the Second World War ● Harewood House recently starred (as itself) in the Downton Abbey film ● There are over 100 acres of gardens at Harewood, landscaped by Capability Brown; the gardeners spend 5,000 hours cutting the grass between April and October ● The Himalayan Garden is home to more than 50 kinds of rhododendron ● The Bird Garden hosts over 40 exotic bird species, including Humboldt penguins and Chilean flamingos www.harewood.org ●

PHOTOS: © PAUL BARKER/HAREWOOD HOUSE TRUST/VISIT BRITAIN/GUY RICHARDSON

man-made marvels

man-made marvels

TOWER OF LONDON, LONDON The Tower was built by William the Conqueror in 1066 as a military stronghold ● Seven ravens are kept in the Tower at all times, thanks to a superstition that if the ravens leave, the kingdom will fall ● In the 13th century the Tower hosted a royal menagerie, filled with exotic creatures such as lions, elephants and polar bears; the animals were moved to London Zoo in 1835 ● The total value of the Crown Jewels, kept in the Tower and guarded day and night by Yeomen Warders (or “Beefeaters”), is thought to exceed £3 billion ● The Tower is said to be one of the most haunted places in Britain, and the ghosts of a headless Anne Boleyn and the “Princes in the Tower” are said to haunt its walls, as well as lions and a grizzly bear from the Tower’s erstwhile zoo www.hrp.org.uk

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PHOTOS: © JAMES DOBSON/DENNIS GILBERT/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES

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PHOTOS: © VISIT BRITAIN/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/DANITA DELIMONT STOCK/AWL IMAGES/VISITLONDON.COM/JON REID

man-made marvels

BODIAM CASTLE, EAST SUSSEX The castle was built in 1385 by Sir Edward Dalyngrigge, who was granted license to “crenellate” – create battlements – by Richard II ● Bodiam appears to be the perfect English castle, but some scholars believe it was never used in battle, but built as a grand country house ● The castle was built using “forced perspective”: the towers and upper windows are smaller than usual to create an illusion of height ● During the English Civil War of the 17th century, the Royalist owner sold Bodiam to a Parliamentarian, who dismantled it. By the 18th century, it was an ivy-covered ruin ● A Grade I-listed building, Bodiam has been owned by the National Trust since 1925 www.nationaltrust.org.uk ●

ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL, LONDON Several cathedrals have stood on this site: the first was burned in 604 AD; the second destroyed by Vikings in 962; the third burned in 1087; and the fourth, a Norman structure, was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666 ● Sir Christopher Wren built the “new” St Paul’s, a baroque behemoth widely considered his masterpiece, on the same site in 1675; Wren was the first person to be buried there in 1723 ● The Cathedral was hit by several bombs in the Blitz but miraculously escaped major damage. It came to be seen as a symbol of Britain’s unbreakable spirit in the face of adversity ● The famous dome is reached by 528 steps and is the second largest in Europe (after St Peter’s in Rome). It weighs 65,000 tonnes and reaches up to 111 metres ● A whisper against the wall of the Whispering Gallery inside the dome can clearly be heard at the other side, 112 feet away www.stpauls.co.uk ●

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man-made marvels

man-made marvels

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, LONDON The museum dates back to 1753, when it was donated to the nation by Sir Hans Sloane ● Originally part of the British Museum, the Natural History Museum became an entity in its own right in 1860 ● The area in which the museum stands is sometimes known as Albertopolis, after Prince Albert, who championed the idea of a cultural quarter here ● When the architect originally chosen to design the building died suddenly, Alfred Waterhouse, an unknown architect from Liverpool, took over, using a mix of Gothic Revival and Romanesque styles in his iconic design ● Waterhouse chose to cover the entire building in terracotta, to stand up to Victorian London’s sooty climate ● The museum holds 70 million botanical artefacts, 55 million animal exhibits, nine million archaeological relics and 500,000 rocks and minerals ● It is the fourth most visited attraction in London, with over five million visitors each year ● Unusually, the gargoyles that embellish the facade are all animals, rather than grotesques with human or mythological form ● The ceilings of the Hintze Hall are covered with intricate tiles featuring plants from all over the world on 162 panels ● The museum’s most famous exhibit, the 21-metre replica of a diplodocus skeleton (“Dippy”), is on a two-year tour of Britain, and is set to return to his London home later this year ● The stunning 25-metre skeleton of a blue whale, suspended from the ceiling of the Hintze Hall, is named Hope: a symbol of humanity’s power to shape a sustainable future www.nhm.ac.uk

PHOTOS: © THE TRUSTEES OF THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, LONDON

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man-made marvels

GLENFINNAN VIADUCT, INVERNESS-SHIRE The Glenfinnan Viaduct is just north of the town of Glenfinnan and half an hour west of Fort William, in the western Scottish Highlands ● It was at Glenfinnan that the Jacobite Rising began in 1745, when Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his standard in an attempt to reinstate the exiled Stuarts on the thrones of Scotland, England and Ireland ● Built in the 1890s and covering a 380-metre (1,000-ft) span, 30 metres (100ft) above ground, the viaduct was the first structure in Britain to be built using mass concrete ● The viaduct achieved worldwide fame thanks to the Harry Potter films, which showed the Hogwarts Express chugging along the viaduct on its way to the famous school of witchcraft and wizardry ● For the perfect photo opportunity, stand at the Glenfinnan Visitor Centre at 10.45am or 3pm in the summer months, when the Jacobite steam train crosses the viaduct: a truly magical sight for Harry Potter fans www.westcoastrailways.co.uk ●

BRIGHTON PIER, EAST SUSSEX Opened in 1899, Brighton Pier is a Grade II-listed building The pier is 525 metres (1,722 feet) long – a distance strolled by more than four million people annually – and repainting it takes three months every year ● At night, the pier is lit by 67,000 bulbs ● The pier suffered a large fire in 2003, which started in the ghost train. Firefighters, who could not drive down the narrow pier, had to run its entire length to put out the blaze www.brightonpier.co.uk ● ●

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PHOTOS: © TOMAS MAREK/ALAMY/LILIYA SAYFEEVA/ALAN COPSON/AWL IMAGES

man-made marvels

RADCLIFFE CAMERA, OXFORD The Radcliffe Camera (“camera” simply means “room”) was created thanks to a bequest of £40,000 from John Radcliffe, royal physician to William III and Mary II ● A competition to design the building was won by James Gibbs – also the architect of the church of St-Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square, London – whose circular library was the first of its kind ● There is space for around 600,000 books in underground rooms beneath Radcliffe Square ● It was taken over by the Bodleian Library in 1860, and today functions as the main reading room. Those who use it have to sign an oath that they will not “mark, deface or injure” the books, and “not to bring into the Library, or kindle therein, any fire or flame” www.bodleian.ox.ac.uk ●

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ancient wonders

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ancient wonders

Ancient WONDERS

Mysterious and beautiful, Britain's ancient sites reveal fascinating, long-hidden insights about our distant ancestors

BRITAIN | ICONIC PLACES & FASCINATING FACTS

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ancient wonders

ROMAN BATHS, BATH ● The ancient Romans built a lavish spa around a sacred spring here in around 70 AD. It was unique in the Roman Empire in its complexity and scale ● The spa’s on-site temple was dedicated to Sulis Minerva, incorporating the name of the Celtic goddess worshipped by the local tribe with that of the Romans’ own goddess of war and wisdom ● The baths were the social hub of society: people from all walks of life met here to bathe in the vaporous spring waters ● Items thrown into the sacred spring as offerings include brooches, bracelets, jugs and over 12,000 coins ● In the fifth century the Romans left Britain and the baths fell into disrepair

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In the 11th century the King’s Bath was built over the site of the ancient baths, which were not unearthed until 1880 ● The outer walls, columns and parapet are Victorian additions, designed by John Wood the Elder and Younger ● The complex was opened to the public in the late 19th century, though the waters are off-limits to swimmers these days ● More than a million litres of spring water gush out of the ground every day here at a steady 46°C ● Your ticket to the baths entitles you to a cupful of spa water at the Pump Room, which contains 43 health-giving minerals www.romanbaths.co.uk ●

PHOTOS: © GAVIN HELLIER/AWL IMAGES/EYE35/ALAMY

ancient wonders

STONEHENGE, WILTSHIRE Though it was begun about 5,000 years ago, Stonehenge was built in stages, with the central stone circle erected in 2500 BC ● There are two types of stone: the larger sarsens, brought from the Marlborough Downs (20 miles away), and the smaller bluestones, dragged all the way from the Preseli Hills in Wales, a distance of 140 miles ● While its purpose remains obscure, many ●

experts believe the site was used as an astronomical calculator, built to track the movements of the sun, moon and stars ● The stones possess strange acoustic qualities, producing a loud clanging sound when struck ● Stonehenge attracts more than a million visitors a year www.english-heritage.org.uk BRITAIN | ICONIC PLACES & FASCINATING FACTS

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ancient wonders

SKARA BRAE, ORKNEY ISLANDS An incredible 5,000 years old, Skara Brae lay preserved beneath a sand dune until it was unearthed by a great storm in 1850 ● The site, composed of simple stone dwellings, was occupied for 600 years, between 3100 and 2500 BC ● It is the best preserved Neolithic settlement in Western Europe, with stone beds, dressers and storage spaces still in place ● Each house had a similar layout, indicating that the 50 to 100 people that lived here did so as equals ● No one knows why the settlement was abandoned. Although objects left behind suggest a sudden departure, is is generally believed that this took place over 20 to 30 years, perhaps in a move to less communal living or to a more productive land www.historicenvironment.scot ●

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ancient wonders

HADRIAN’S WALL, NORTHUMBERLAND Stretching from coast to coast, Hadrian’s Wall was the northwestern frontier of the Roman Empire ● The wall was named after the Emperor Hadrian, who ascended to the throne in 117 AD and ordered its construction; work commenced in 122 AD ● The continuous wall of stone or turf took around 15,000 men about 6 years to build ● The wall was 73 miles long, with forts dotted along its length. What you see today is only a fraction – probably about ten per cent – of the original ● It’s sometimes mistakenly thought that the wall marks the border between England and Scotland, but it never has: England’s northernmost county, Northumberland, lies mainly north of Hadrian’s Wall www.english-heritage.org.uk

PHOTOS: © VISIT SCOTLAND/KENNY LAM/VISIT BRITAIN/ADAM BURTON/JOE CORNISH

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CASTLERIGG STONE CIRCLE, CUMBRIA This mystical stone circle is perhaps Britain’s most scenic, with the mountains of Helvellyn and High Seat as a backdrop ● The site is composed of 38 freestanding stones, some of which are up to 3 metres (10 feet) high ● The stone circle is thought to date back to the Neolithic period, some 4,000 to 5,000 years ago ● The purpose of the site is unknown. Possible ●

uses include a trading post, a social gathering place, a site for religious ceremonies and rituals, and an astronomical observatory ● Castlerigg was one of the first sites to be covered by the Ancient Monuments Protection Act in 1888. It stands on land owned by the National Trust and is maintained by English Heritage www.english-heritage.org.uk BRITAIN | ICONIC PLACES & FASCINATING FACTS

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ancient wonders

GLASTONBURY TOR, SOMERSET Glastonbury Tor is a natural conical hill, rising from the Somerset Levels and topped with the roofless St Michael’s Tower ● The Tor is mentioned in Celtic mythology, and is especially linked to King Arthur ● The original wooden church was destroyed by an earthquake in 1275. The stone church tower of St Michael was built here in the 14th century ● It has a gruesome history. Abbot Richard Whiting was executed here in 1549 on the orders of Thomas Cromwell, the first Earl of Essex ● The sides of the Tor have seven deeply grooved, roughly symmetrical terraces, whose formation remains a mystery, though some believe these are the remains of a three-dimensional labyrinth www.nationaltrust.org.uk

PHOTOS: © GAVIN HELLIER/AWL IMAGES

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A panel of 340 National Geographic magazine experts ranked Pembrokeshire as the second best coastline in the world, sharing second place with the Tutukaka Coast in New Zealand and beating

MORE AWARDS:

places like The Seychelles, Bermuda and Costa Rica.

The Times top 20 walks - Stackpole Head

Tripadvisor asked its customers to vote for their

The Telegraph 12 best beaches in Britain - Marloes Sands

favourite beach destinations in the UK. Tenby was rated 5th in front of Woolacombe, Padstow, Shanklin and Swanage.

The Independent UK’s hottest tourist spots - Freshwater West Beach

The Pembrokeshire Coast path was rated as the

Great Outdoors best places to camp in the UK - Caerfai Bay

third best walking trail in the world by another

Sunday Mirror best beaches - Barafundle

online travel advisor, Cheapflights. It even beat

Best Magazine best beaches - Tenby

Mount Kilimanjaro and the Inca Trail.

The Independent best European beaches - Barafundle

Visit Britain also recognised how special the Pembrokeshire Coast is by rating it the 4th best Coastal Place in Britain behind The White Cliffs of Dover, The Jurassic Coast and Brighton.

To findGo outtomore and discover all the places www.visitpembrokeshire.com to find mentioned above out more and discover all of the places mentioned www.visitpembrokeshire.com above and order a brochure.

Wild Swimming best swim spots - The Blue Lagoon at Abereiddi The Independent best summer walks - The Pembrokeshire Coast Path

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