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EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Summer 2019 £3.95
The art of travel DISCOVER THE WORLD THROUGH A NEW LENS
THE AFRICAN DREAM
How to see South Africa’s Garden Route in style
DANUBE DELIGHT A voyage of enlightenment
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Viking
WELCOME
Sailing into summer Welcome to the summer edition of Explore More. At Viking, we have always valued art and design on board our ships, and the pieces we present are both beautiful and thought-provoking. We have applied the same principles to this art-themed issue, with stunning travel features that transport you around the world, from South Africa’s southern shores to the Great Wall of China. We have profiled some of our favourite artists, whose work you can see on our ships, and we have compiled our top ten art destinations to spark the idea for your next trip. Introducing new ships to our fleet – both ocean and river – is always a momentous occasion, and I was absolutely thrilled to be named Godmother to one of our seven new river ships, Viking Sigrun, in Basel, earlier this year. The christening ceremony marked a special moment for me, and you can read more about it in this issue. We continue our series of short stories with a uplifting tale written by novelist Adele Parks, and we have been busy dreaming of Germany and Hungary thanks to Karen Burns-Booth’s mouth-watering recipes. We have a busy summer ahead, and we’re proud to be sponsoring lots of events this year, including the Tutankhamun exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery and the RHS Hampton Court Palace Garden Festival. We very much hope you enjoy this issue, and look forward to catching up with you at one of our events soon.
Managing Director, Viking UK
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SPR ING 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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Co n t e n t s more
EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Summer 2019 £3.95
The art of travel
IN THIS ISSUE... 10 THE AFRICAN DREAM Epic wildlife and sublime
scenery are hallmarks of this exceptional world cruise segment
18 JOURNEY THROUGH CHINA An exhilarating mix of modern-day culture and ancient traditions is waiting to be uncovered in this fascinating and diverse country
DISCOVER THE WORLD THROUGH A NEW LENS
28 SUMMER PROMISE Award-winning garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes looks ahead to the summer
THE AFRICAN DREAM
How to see South Africa’s Garden Route in style
36 THE ALLURE OF RIVER CRUISING A first-time river cruiser is hooked after an immersive cruise along the Danube
DANUBE DELIGHT A voyage of enlightenment
45 ART ON BOARD Take a closer look at our impressive art OFC_EM16_FINAL.indd 1
29/04/2019 16:55
Cover: The Sun, an oil painting by Norwegian artist Edvard Munch. Photo: Alamy
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collection and learn more about some of our favourite artists
50 A GUIDING STAR We talk to Wendy Atkin-Smith, Viking UK’s MD and now Godmother to Viking Sigrun
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FEATURES
REGULARS
17 DOURO DELIGHTS Explore the picturesque vineyards and valleys of Portugal on this brand new river itinerary
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VIKING NEWS The latest news and events
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YOUR WORLD Letters and photos from our guests
24 TOP TEN ART DESTINATIONS If you want to combine your love of both art and travel, these are the places to visit
33 MAGNIFICENT RUSSIA Immerse yourself in the real
30 CAPSULE COLLECTION Discover how to update your summer wardrobe with colourful prints in our fashion edit
Russia on this journey from Moscow to St. Petersburg
59 KARINE’S TRAVELS Karine Hagen shares her love of art
42 POSTCARD FROM SHANGHAI The vibrant city proves
60 BOOK CLUB Our pick of the best novels inspired by art and paintings – perfect packing material for your next trip
52 MEET AND GREET Viking chef Gaetano Monteriso
68 CITY GUIDE: REYKJAVIK This small capital is big on character and a highlight of any Icelandic adventure
54 TRAVEL TASTES Karen Burns-Booth shares some tasty
70 CITY GUIDE: NEW YORK One of the world’s most iconic cities, the Big Apple always offers something new
62 READY OR NOT Writer Adele Parks transports us to the Mediterranean for a tale of new beginnings
72 CITY GUIDE: VIENNA History, culture and baroque
a fascinating stop-off on our Imperial Jewels of China cruise
reveals the secrets behind creating world-class cuisine at sea
German and Hungarian recipes picked up on her travels
beauty fuse harmoniously in this elegant European capital
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Viking NEWS A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking
New
DESTINATIONS
We are always working hard behind-the-scenes to create exciting new itineraries and have recently added two new romantic river trips. A Tale of Three Rivers from Trier to Bamberg soaks up some of Germany’s great cities and landscapes. Meanwhile, our Rhine & Moselle Discovery explores three countries from Trier to Basel, comprising of scenic cruising through the Rhine Gorge, a UNESCO site, Speyer’s landmark cathedral and the cultural hub of the Alsace region, Strasbourg. New ocean journeys include, Jewels of Southeast Asia, covering eight countries in 26 days, from 6
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Hong Kong to Mumbai with stops in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, Sri Lanka and India. And equally epic, Mumbai to Mediterranean Passage, departing in April 2020, takes in 10 countries in 30 days, visiting Oman, Jordan, Egypt, Malta, Italy, Algeria, Spain, Portugal and finishing in London. Meanwhile in Europe, three new cultural journeys await. Mediterranean Antiquities and Iconic Adriatic Antiquities both span 15 days and several countries, whilst Antiquities of the Mediterranean, from Venice to Barcelona, is slightly longer at 22 days, and includes visits to Croatia, Montenegro, Greece, Turkey, Italy, France and Spain.
CHARITY UPDATE Our year of supporting three new charities kicked off in January with a charity day in our head office in aid of The UK Sepsis Trust. We raised a fantastic £220 through hosting a dress-down day, raffle and bake sale.
sepsistrust.org In February, we raised nearly £200 through another dressdown day and raffle for The Children’s Trust, who discussed lots of fundraising ideas, from participating in marathons, cycling events and skydives to volunteering at the Epsom Derby.
thechildrenstrust.org.uk
NEWS
DATES FOR THE DIARY
AWARDS SEASON
Come and see us at one of these fantastic events:
We are delighted to have won...
2-7 July 2019 RHS Hampton Court Palace Garden Festival
Favourite River Cruise Line in the Passenger Favourites Category at the Wave Awards on 7 March at London’s De Vere Grand Connaught Rooms. A huge thank you to those who voted for us.
1-7 July 2019 Greenwich Music Time 5-7 July 2019 GWCT Scottish Game Fair
NAMING CEREMONY In March we held a naming ceremony in Basel for our seven new river ships. Two of the ships were present, and in keeping with tradition, we asked seven long-serving employees and members of the company’s family to serve as honorary godmothers. On page 50, read about how Wendy Atkin-Smith, MD of Viking UK, felt on becoming a godmother. From left-right: Vicky Mayer, Editor at World of Cruising; Clare Armitage, Events Coordinator, Viking; Neil Barclay, Head of Sales, Viking and Hal Cruttenden, Comedian
SHIP NUMBER SIX
We have also been awarded a... One Star Accreditation in the Best Companies 2019 survey. This accreditation programme recognises the importance of workplace engagement and genuinely values its people.
Above: Neil Barclay, Head of Sales & Sarah Clarke, Office Manager, Viking
CHAMPIONING NATURE We are thrilled to announce we will be headline sponsor of the RHS Hampton Court Palace Garden Festival for the fourth year running, and look forward to welcoming nearly 150,000 visitors to the historic Hampton Court Palace in July. Will Williams, RHS Young Designer of the Year in 2018, will be creating ‘The Viking Cruises Lagom Garden’, which promises to be one of the highlights of the show. “I have taken inspiration from the Scandinavian idea of lagom, which means not too much, not too little, perfectly balanced,” said Will. “The garden showcases clever ways to make the most of small spaces, as Viking does exceptionally well on river and ocean ships. The overall effect is one of balance, serenity and peace.”
In February, we took delivery of our sixth ocean ship, Viking Jupiter, at a special ceremony at Fincantieri’s shipyard in Ancona, Italy. The ship’s first itineraries will be in the Mediterranean and Scandinavia. Sissel Kyrkiebø, the acclaimed Norwegian soprano, will be appointed godmother in Oslo in June.
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
TREASURE TROVE
Celebrating our love of Egypt, we are very proud to sponsor the London leg of the TUTANKHAMUN: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh world tour, which is due to open at the Saatchi Gallery in November. The show will mark the first time that 60 of the 150 original artefacts from Tutankhamun’s tomb will be seen in the UK. For those inspired to learn more, our Pharaohs & Pyramids itinerary from Cairo sails between Luxor and Aswan along the Nile River, with resident Egyptologists on board. SUM MER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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Your WORLD
We catch up with where you’ve been and what you’ve seen on your Viking cruises...and where you’re off to next
YOUR LETTERS My wife and I would like to thank you all for a very memorable cruise. Everything was just great – the ship was beautiful, and, above all, the level of service was impeccable. Chris Rabbitts
The magic touch We have just returned from our third ocean cruise (our 12th cruise overall) and we wanted to tell you, yet again, what a wonderful time we both had. Although we arrived late at night, the staff were still smiling and welcoming and, as usual, they proved to be your greatest asset. There was a selection of sandwiches and a bottle of wine to greet us in our stateroom too, and it is special touches like these that make Viking stand out from its competitors. We are very privileged to have travelled so widely and to have seen a great deal of the world, and much of this is courtesy of Viking. Thank you for all the experiences you have made possible for us. We are truly appreciative and have so many happy memories. Barbara and Keith Horden
First-time feedback We are just back from our first Viking cruise and I wanted to say a huge thank you for a truly wonderful experience. Our expectations were high, but they were more than met. From the first telephone conversation I had when making the booking to the Viking escort who dropped us off at the airport on the final day of our holiday, we were made to feel special throughout, and receiving a lovely ‘welcome home’ card and gift was very much appreciated. 8
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For me, it was all the extra little touches that made such a difference. Our stateroom was so spacious and always immaculately serviced but features such as the underfloor heating in the bathroom and the helpful lighting in the vanity unit really stood out. I also liked the fact that so much on the cruise was included and no extras were expected for many of the tours, the spa and the option of dining in the alternative restaurants. The quality of the food and drink was fabulous, too, and although we had a Silver Spirits beverage package, we were very surprised at the reasonable cost of the drinks on board. Likewise, the service we received from Viking staff was marvellous, and everyone went above and beyond to make our holiday extra special. I could go on to name lots of people but, quite honestly, everybody deserves to be praised. Now we’re very much looking forward to our next trip: Imperial Jewels of China. Pauline Paddon
A toast to the crew Our sixth Viking river cruise, Château, Rivers & Wine, really had the wow factor, and we would love it if our congratulations could be passed onto Captain Darrio and all the crew and staff on board and off shore. Their work effort was tremendous, and nothing was ever too much trouble. It was also our best cruise yet for the entertainment provided, and we are both so looking forward to our next ocean cruise with Viking with great levels of anticipation. Judith and Julian Walther
S TA R L E T T E R
On the final day of our recent Cultural Cuba cruise, we disembarked Viking Star in Miami, and explored the city. Afterwards, we were dropped at the Bayside Market area and could see Viking Star docked by the waterfront, so we wandered down for a last wave goodbye. A man standing beside us looked up and said: “That is my ship”. We assumed he meant it was his fantasy ship, and we quickly told him it was, in fact, ‘our’ ship as we had just left it. With a wry smile, he replied: “No, it really is my ship”. It was at this point we realised we were talking to our captain, Martin Birkeland. We chatted about the ship and our cruise, and then went our separate ways. It was a lovely end to yet another great Viking experience. Margaret and John Mason
You could win...
...a £50 M&S gift voucher if your letter is chosen as our star letter. Email us at uk-marketing@ vikingrivercruises.com
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
A trip to remember
LETTERS
Y O U R P H O T O S #MyVikingStory Follow us on Instagram @VikingCruises for more inspirational images
Cruise highlights Clockwise from top left: 1. Journeys linger, in Lisbon, Portugal. TravelEsquire 2. We saw a beautiful array of tulips and orchids on our Keukenhof garden tour. Maria Isabel Darlington 3. A treat from Elisabeth Biscarrat, found on our Viking tasting tour in Strasbourg. CruiseAddicts 4. Taking flight over the Valley of the Kings and the Nile in Luxor, Egypt, an incredible view! Pamela Shaffer 5. The homes along the Guamá River are built on stilts because of the variation of the water level. dianneinlv 6. I adored visiting Český Krumlov on my Viking cruise! Kirsten Alana 7. Colourful homes in Dominica. SusanWagener 8. Sunset Over The Middle Rhine thank you Viking for the amazing view. GeofotoF 9. Huge thanks to the crew who helped make my birthday an amazing one! OneModernCouple
Hit List
YOUR MESSAGES I’ve been going on Viking river cruises for many years and I know that any ship I travel on will have the same high standard of service. Ann Vine
Fantastic service, beautiful ships, wonderful food and amazing staff… do I need to go on? Viking is simply the best. Lynn Morris The rib eye steak in Manfredi’s is too good to miss! Mark Borrill
We are aboard Viking Orion in June to see Alaska. This will be our 20th Viking cruise: 16 river and four ocean cruises. We prefer river for cruise experience but ocean for the fantastic luxury. John Varndell We were fortunate to do the Mekong cruise last October and it was a wonderful experience. Everything was very well organised, the ship was stunning
and Smiley and Tony, our Viking tour guides, were awesome. Ashley Adsett Whichever Viking ship we sail on, it becomes our home-awayfrom-home. You already know how much we love you, and we wouldn’t dream of sailing with any other cruise line. Ro Davis Lovely people, great food, fabulous culture... what’s not to like? Deborah Davies Loved our visit to St. Petersburg on our Viking cruise. Intend to return. Margaret Scott
We have never cruised with Viking before but after seeing so many positive comments we are thinking of booking the Japan ocean cruise for next April. It is very reassuring. Linda Blake
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This page: The epic Table Mountain towers over the cosmopolitan city of Cape Town
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The
AFRICAN DREAM
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY
Journalist Frances Marcellin reports back from the South African section of a world cruise
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grassland which we would explore from the canopied 4x4 safari jeeps. After a jaunty few minutes on the dusty ochre road, Milton, our guide, suddenly sped off towards what was revealed to be a “tower” of
and daughter rhinos – not too close, however, as the mother was apparently short-tempered. And who could blame her after learning that she had only narrowly survived a poacher’s attack.
We suddenly sped off towards a “tower” of giraffes. One bold male sauntered alongside, dazzling us with his honey-gold patches giraffes. One bold male sauntered alongside, dazzling us with his honey-gold patches. Just like snowflakes, each pattern on a giraffe is unique, helping them keep track of their family groups. Later we saw another congregation beneath the trees. Milton said it was their wedding venue. Sightings of kudus, hippos, impala and herds of grazing zebra, were all highlights of this half-day safari, as was observing mother
That afternoon we set sail for East London and dinner was at The Restaurant. I chose from the destination menu: grilled peri-peri black tiger prawns, followed by seared black bass with fava beans and wild mushroom. Our sommelier Andrej, who served up impeccable wine pairings at every meal on board, had chosen a white Sauvignon Blanc from Cape Town’s Stellenbosch wine region and a light red, the Marras
Clockwise, from top left: Frances spotted a herd of zebra at Tala Private Game Reserve; the pretty harbour at Port Elizabeth; two local ladies preparing to grind maize together; the infinity pool is the perfect place to watch the sun set
PHOTOS: © I-STOCK/GETTY
s the glowing sun casts its amber cloak over Table Mountain I’m watching with awe from the edge of Viking Sun’s infinity pool. I marvel at its neighbouring landmarks, the jutting Lion’s Head peak and flatter Signal Hill (or Lion’s Rump as it is also known). Their view from a different angle would resemble a sun-kissed sphinx, which is how the outline of the two combined together is often described. In the port below, my eyes are drawn to fins circling in the water. Great white sharks perhaps? It is possible in these parts, but no. These are cape fur seals playing in the glistening light, no wonder they are called the puppies of the ocean. This is everyday life for Capetonians. But for me, with my head rested on interlocked fingers while indulgently submerged in the cool crystal water, this moment was as precious as finding an endangered peacock flower in the wild – Lion’s Rump being one of the only places in the world where it is still possible to do so. Cape Town was the last stop on my South African journey with Viking, which had started in Durban, the country’s busiest port. The morning started early with a safari shore excursion to Tala Private Game Reserve, about an hour’s drive west. We were greeted with blue skies, immaculate lawns and chunky Aloe trees, but this was quite different to the wild open
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Trickster Pinotage whose notes of cranberry went in perfect harmony with my delicate fish dish. The following morning, we took an excursion to meet African Xhosa people at the Khaya La Bantu village. They introduced us to their culture, past and present, such as how the Lobola, the price of the bride, is negotiated before a marriage. Traditionally the price was in cattle, but today it can be cash or other gifts. Song and dancing from women and children in traditional clothing greeted us on arrival, but the most convivial aspect was tasting
authentic Xhosa food. Matriarch Nkollie, who had talked us through the woman’s role in Xhosa culture, explained to me that the dishes included: umgubo (cabbage or spinach and mielepap, cooked cornmeal porridge), amagwinya (fried dough bread), and delicious isonka samanzi (steamed bread). In the afternoon one of the excursions took guests into East London itself and to the town’s museum, which is home to the world’s only existing Dodo egg. Early the next morning, we sailed into Port Elizabeth as the luminescent sun was rising. The day held the exciting promise of seeing “the big five” at Pumba Game Reserve, the five game animals considered to be the most dangerous and difficult to hunt: elephant, black rhinoceros, cape buffalo, lion and leopard. SUM MER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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Before leaving our safari guide, Phumlani, stressed that we should keep our voices down, and that if a snake falls in our lap to click our fingers and he will remove it. I glanced around horrified, only to realise I was one of the last to get that this was a joke. Pumba Game Reserve is 6,500 hectares, double the size of Tala so there are more miles to travel. Yet just 15 minutes into the safari we spotted a majestic white lion lazing by a tree. Then we found a pride of lions. The king was tucking into fresh prey while the lioness hungrily waited for her share. The male always eats first, Phumlani told us. We were lucky to see many animals, including kudus, giraffes, impalas, buffalos and a hippo. As we headed back to enjoy a lunchtime braai (South African barbecue), we suddenly spied an elephant family. The mother stayed back in the bushes, but her eightyear-old had more bravado and we delighted in seeing him pluck the grass with his trunk and munch it contentedly. With Cape Town as our final stop, we were always going to end this extraordinary cruise on a high.
With Cape Town as our final stop, we were always going to end this extraordinary cruise on a high Savouring my breakfast blueberry smoothie on the World Café terrace opposite Table Mountain is a moment I shall never forget. After taking a trip to Table Mountain for the must-see view of the panoramic city scape, we meandered around the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront and visited the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa – the building’s architecture is a work of art in itself. At lunchtime we nibbled on a seafood platter watching the boats
pass through the Marina Swing Bridge and paused to take in the live African music filling the air by the fairground-like Cape Wheel. The Cape Town excursions included a trip to the inland town of Stellenbosch for wine tasting, and another that offered Table Mountain & Signal Hill Sundowners in the late afternoon. I’m glad I headed back to Viking Sun though, as I think my private sundowner moment from the infinity pool topped them all.
Clockwise, from above: seeing so many giraffes was an unexpected treat; guests can visit South Africa’s vineyards to taste delicious local wines; the African Trading Port by the marina in Cape Town; seafood was a culinary highlight
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ITINERARY
DOURO delights Discover the charms of this region as you explore stunning landscapes, quaint towns and the history of Portuguese wine Above: Porto charms with its vibrant riverbanks, cobbled medieval streets and beautifully tiled churches
DAY 1 / PORTO, PORTUGAL Arrive in Porto, a charming city on the steep banks of the Douro in northern Portugal. Head to the dock at Vila Nova de Gaia to board your ship and get settled in.
DAY 2 / PORTO, PORTUGAL It is impossible not to fall in love with Porto on your included city tour. Stroll through the medieval centre, admiring its criss-crossed alleys, baroque churches and stately buildings, and become immersed in the romance of the UNESCO-listed riverfront district, Ribeira.
DAY 3 / RÉGUA & PINHÃO, PORTUGAL Enjoy a morning of scenic cruising to Régua. After lunch, visit the Vila Real and Mateus Palace, the building that’s depicted on the Mateus Rosé wine label. There will be a chance to explore the formal gardens, too, as well as undertake a cellar tour at a wine estate before re-joining your ship in Pinhão.
DAY 4 / BARCA D’ALVA, PORTUGAL
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
Relax and soak up the tranquillity as you cruise along a particularly picturesque stretch of the river. Close to the Spanish border, your ship will call at Barca d’Alva and, from here, you can enjoy an included drive through idyllic countryside to hilltop Castelo Rodrigo, a small medieval fortress town.
DAY 5 / SALAMANCA, SPAIN UNESCO-listed Salamanca is sure to captivate as 16
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you uncover the city’s architectural wonders; there’s the 13th-century Salamanca University replete with sandstone facades, the House of Shells decorated with 400 scallop shells and the 500-year-old New Cathedral, which is a Gothic-baroque masterpiece.
DAY 6 / PINHÃO, PORTUGAL Relish the timeless scenery as you sail back to Pinhão and, from here, drive through the picturesque countryside to the village of Favaios. Learn about local breadmaking in one of Portugal’s last traditional bakeries before feasting on a delicious lunch at the Quinta da Avessada winery.
DAY 7 / RÉGUA & PORTO, PORTUGAL Return to Régua for a trip to Lamego, where its stunning baroque church, the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, has been an important pilgrimage site for centuries. Other sights include its Gothic cathedral and the ruins of a 12th-century castle. The town boasts a special setting, with the Serra do Marão mountains on the horizon. Sail back to Porto for the evening.
DAY 8 / PORTO, PORTUGAL After breakfast, you will be escorted to the airport for your return flight back to the UK. The eight-day Douro’s Valleys & Vineyards itinerary, a return trip from Porto, starts from £1,895pp
Discover the Douro’s Valleys & Vineyards Explore Portugal’s true beauty and rich past as you sail the River Douro through an ancient land of terraced hillsides carpeted with vineyards, on this new journey. In these tranquil landscapes, tiny villages cluster around historic churches, monasteries and castles. Baroque palaces and resplendent manor houses transport you to another age. Enjoy time to explore historic Porto. Visit Mateus Palace and its beautiful gardens. Spend a day in the magnificent Spanish city of Salamanca. Explore Lamego, one of Portugal’s most important pilgrimage sites. Eight extraordinary days. Endless discoveries.
2020 Douro’s Valleys & Vineyards Eight-day river cruise from £1,895pp Call now on 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to change. From price is per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available on Douro’s Valleys & Vineyards departing on selected dates in 2020. Prices valid until 30 June 2019. Single supplements apply. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.
Journey through China Travel blogger Rebecca Wiggins discovered an intoxicating mix of ancient traditions and modern-day culture when she embarked on an epic 15-day cruise-tour of China
This page: The Shanghai skyline mixes futuristic modern design with more traditional buildings Opposite: The view from the stern of Viking Emerald
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’m balancing a delicate tea cup between my thumb and forefinger, resting the base gently on my middle finger and concentrating on sticking out my remaining fingers in what I’m hoping is a ladylike manner. The tea must be finished in three sips, representing happiness, long life and good fortune. Slurping is okay (it improves your experience of the flavour) but coughing and spluttering definitely isn’t. I fear I’m not a star student, but our tea tasting session at the Bell Tower Tea Room in Beijing is a fascinating insight into the reverence with which tea is treated in China. We leave inspired, vowing that our buckets of milky builders’ tea are a thing of the past. Our journey of discovery started over 800 miles to the south in incredible Shanghai. Setting out to explore on our first night, we were entranced by the crackling energy of this bustling city and were swept along on packed pavements, dazzled by the lights and bombarded with noise and unfamiliar smells. We wandered the streets, stopping to pet cute little dogs (Shanghai residents have a penchant for dressing up their dogs, and it’s adorable) and stopping for delicious dumplings before retreating to our very luxurious hotel, The Portman Ritz-Carlton, for drinks in the bar. The next morning, we were united with Roy, our Viking guide. Our daily interactions with him came to be one of the highlights of our trip. We felt so lucky to be part of his ‘Viking family’ (you stay with the same small group throughout your journey). Roy’s depth of knowledge of China’s history and culture was extraordinary, and his generosity in sharing snippets of his family life as well as insights into living in modern China really impressed us. Our first stop, Yu Garden, is a five-acre oasis of green in the middle of the city, with koi ponds, beautiful pagodas and ancient trees next to a bustling bazaar packed with people, shops, delicious smelling dumpling stalls and more stunning old buildings. Following an afternoon in the fascinating Shanghai Museum, Roy took us to the historic Bund where we saw the glittering, modern skyline across the river juxtaposed with the ancient buildings lining the shore. Sadly there was no time to wait for the spectacular evening light show as we had an appointment with the Shanghai Acrobatic Troupe: a band of incredibly talented young athletes performing terrifying spins,
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Clockwise from above: Rebecca loved meeting local school children; stunning scenery was waiting around every bend; ancient temples and carvings were one of many highlights; tasting a range of traditional teas; delicious dim sum; one of the beautiful staterooms on board Viking Emerald
PHOTOS: © ALAMY/ISTOCK
of flavours to the Chinese feast flips and human pyramids with such nonchalance featuring everything from a you’d think it was an everyday occurrence. There were slightly startling platter of chicken juggling acts involving huge pots and swords, and a feet to beef soup noodles delivered nail-biting wall of death featuring seven motorbikes in a spherical cage roaring around inches from each other. on a traditional shoulder basket by a crew member. I’m not sure I breathed the entire show. Our first morning onboard From Shanghai to Beijing, with three internal woke to the soon-to-be-familiar flights, stays in three different, but all luxurious, hotels clanging, shouting and smells of and five ‘megacities’ (cities with a population in excess a Chinese river port, Jingzhou. of 10 million) to get through, it’s a full-on itinerary, We were headed to a local but with Roy’s near-military organisational skills they school sponsored by Viking don’t feel too much of a chore. We’d landed in the and I must admit to being a bit sprawling skyscraper city of Wuhan by lunchtime and, cynical about the visit, but the after a quick stop at a pretty riverside Pagoda, where we happened across a bride and groom posing for their children are, frankly, adorable. After a performance of traditional dance, little hands were soon grabbing wedding photos, we were on board the ship by midafternoon, welcomed by the entire crew looking jaunty ours and we were pulled to their classrooms to sit in on an English lesson. We emerged, covered in stickers in their red Viking overcoats, with traditional music and with phones full of cute selfies, so pleased to have and a dancing Chinese dragon. played a tiny, positive part in their lives. Viking Emerald is a beauty: elegantly appointed After an afternoon spent visiting the ancient walls and arranged around a central open atrium glittering of the city which date back to the Ming dynasty, with gold and marble, which reaches up through all and a stop at the museum to experience a beautiful six decks. The ship is comfortable and clean with performance of chime bells, we were back on board sophisticated staterooms and premium toiletries, and and cruising on up the Yangtze. Soon, we reached the young staff are sweet and incredibly keen to please. the formidable Three With a capacity of just 256 guests, service feels As you’d expect from a Viking cruise, Gorges Dam, the hydroelectric personal, with staff soon small, thoughtful touches abound, from biggest dam in the world and learning your names and preferences (how the offer of a mint tea to an endless on a scale like nothing I’ve ever seen before. do they remember it supply of delicious cookies As high as a 60-storey all?). There’s a restaurant building and costing sparkling with silver $26 billion to build, with construction eating up and crystal, a lounge and bar all with panoramic views entire towns full of houses, schools and hospitals, it across the river, plus an open observation deck set with provides double the power than all the power stations stylish canopies and loungers. in the UK put together. To traverse the dam, we first As you’d expect from a Viking cruise, small, needed to negotiate the five enormous ship locks, each thoughtful touches abound, from the offer of a mint about 900ft long. We sat out on our balcony (with tea and cold towel when you return after an excursion champagne, this is a Viking cruise, after all) as the to a small coffee area with an endless supply of captain performed the seemingly impossible task of delicious cookies and pastries available 24/7. Dining is levering us in with just inches to spare either side. set time, open seating at large tables, so be prepared to The next morning we woke in another world. We mingle, and there’s a wide range of onboard activities looked out onto an otherworldly landscape of looming from the daily morning tai chi session to interesting mountains covered with thick vegetation, the tops talks on history, Chinese lessons and even a dumpling shrouded in mist. The second of the Three Gorges, cookery class. Food onboard is a highlight, from Chef Wu Gorge, is undoubtedly the most beautiful, and we Danny’s delicious breakfast yogurts in a multitude left the ship to climb on to brightly-coloured sampan boats to explore the ethereal Goddess Stream. As our little boat slipped through the water and our local guide sang a haunting, traditional Chinese song, I sat out on the small open deck area with a fellow guest, mesmerised by the raw beauty of the jade water, lush trees and bamboo overhanging the stream. Back on the ship, I decided to prolong my feelings of serenity by indulging in a ginseng lifting facial from the Chinese medicine expert on board. It was a unique experience, with a range of unusual herbal scented products applied with a combination of quite firm massage, slapping and sweeping motions, followed by the application of a thick, herbal poultice, and finally a bonus head massage that left me walking on air. Our last day on board took us to the outskirts of our third mega city, Chongqing, capital of south west China. We wandered through a local market village to the stunning Shibaozhai Pagoda, across the Shaking
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Bridge, a wibbly wobbly structure across which I notice Dynasty to protect the Silk Road, the Great Wall is even the usually sombre Chinese visitors crack a smile, disconnected but stretches across 4000 miles of this to the stunning Taoist temple built into the rock face of fascinating country. The benefit of having a Viking the island without using a single nail. That smile soon Guide is that they know the best entrances to avoid fades when we’re all faced with the first of 12 storeys of the crowds. We reached the wall by a new funicular rickety stairs, but the view, and the gorgeous temple at railway and walked along empty stretches in the crisp, the top are worth the burning thighs. morning sunshine, taking in the view stretching far We said a fond farewell to Viking Emerald and took away into the mountains in the distance. It was a pinch a flight to Xian. Famous for its rich history and for me moment that I’ll never forget. being the start of the Silk Road, it’s the centre point Later, as the sun scorched the earth and we shed of the People’s Republic of China and home of the layer upon layer, we walked the Sacred Way of the Terracotta Warriors. Ming Tombs, a beautiful place for contemplation Unearthed in 1974 by a farmer digging a well, and said to be the way walked by the spirits of the legend has it that Qin Shi Huang, the first Emperor Emperors, although the tombs are actually some way of China, had the warriors built as part of an elaborate away. It’s a beautiful path ending with a divine pagoda. funerary shrine. So far, 6000 warriors have been I’ve never felt so zen. uncovered, each with his own different stature, Ending our trip on a high, we visited Tiananmen expression, facial hair and uniform. A ruthless ruler, it’s Square, the largest city square in the world, resting said that after 38 years, of Chairman Mao We looked out onto an otherworldly place when the tomb was and scene of the 1989 complete, Qin had all student protests. As usual, landscape of looming mountains the artisans murdered Roy fielded our questions to safeguard the secret covered with thick vegetation, the tops and we were moved to of the tomb. The scale hear his insights. shrouded in mist of the archaeological Heading north, we dig is breathtaking, with three vast, football pitch-sized took an underpass to the Forbidden City, Imperial pits of soldiers, horses and other artefacts, their unique Palace of countless Emperors and the site of seemingly features picked out by shafts of light. Roy tells us that endless beautifully-decorated buildings with yellowthere are possibly decades more work still to be done tiled roofs and open, cobbled squares, finishing with to complete the dig, and they might never unearth the a pretty garden. It’s the largest palace complex in the emperor’s tomb. world and an absolute must-see. We can’t quite After our final internal flight to Beijing, we were believe that we’ve ticked off so many amazing sights certain that the Great Wall was to be the highlight of on one trip. our trip, but there were many more surprises to come, It’s a packed itinerary and you do need to find time including a rickshaw visit to sweet Mrs Wang, who to relax every now and then, but from The Great Wall lives in the Hutongs of Beijing: a maze of alleyways to the Terracotta Warriors, the opportunity to see and ‘flat houses’ built around courtyards and a way of so much of this fascinating country felt like such an life now preserved and protected for its cultural and honour, and visiting with a Viking guide is definitely historical importance. Mrs Wang generously offered the way to do it. We’re already talking about where jasmine tea in delicate china cups as we all crowded we’ll go next. into her teeny house, admiring old family photos. A 15-day Imperial Jewels of China journey from After an early night, we were up early for our Shanghai starts at £3,045pp longest journey. Started even before the Qin Dynasty vikingcruises.co.uk as an early form of defence, and extended in the Han
Clockwise from above: Viking Emerald was the perfect homefrom-home for the trip; the epic views stretching along the Great Wall of China; the famous Terracotta Warriors
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Top Ten
ART DESTINATIONS Love art and travelling? Combine your two passions by visiting our pick of the best art destinations on the planet
1
BERLIN
As one of the most creative cultural hubs in Europe, it’s hardly surprising that Berlin boasts a vibrant and varied art scene. Paintings from Old Masters such as Rembrandt and Botticelli are on display in the Gemäldegalerie while UNESCO-listed Museum Island is home to the Nefertiti Bust, the Pergamon Altar and many other iconic pieces. But a must-visit is the East Side Gallery, where more than a hundred murals from contemporary artists adorn 1.3km of the Berlin Wall, making it the longest open-air gallery in the world.
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PARIS
Sitting on the bank of the River Seine, the Louvre, as the world’s largest art museum, is the obvious first stop for art-lovers visiting Paris. Yet, there’s plenty more to uncover. An extensive impressionist collection featuring works by Monet, Cézanne and Renoir is on show at the Musée d’Orsay, the Rodin Museum is devoted to the remarkable French sculptor and the National Museum of Modern Art is housed within 20th-century architectural marvel Centre Pompidou.
3
BARCELONA
Alongside a dramatic history, architectural wonders and cutting-edge cuisine, Barcelona enjoys a rich artistic heritage. The most renowned gallery in the city is the Picasso Museum, but other Spanish artists are also celebrated, with museums dedicated to Antoni Tàpies and surrealist sculptor Joan Miró. The local focus continues at the MNCA (Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya) with a huge collection of Catalan art, including a particularly outstanding Romanesque section, to admire.
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SANTIAGO DE CUBA
Tucked away among a leafy suburb of Santiago, Cuba’s second largest city, is a series of gallery-workshops that nurture and display the imagination of the country’s artists. Forget stereotyped depictions of Che Guevara and old American cars; Cuba is a powerhouse of abstract art that often defies description. Vivid portraits, perplexing juxtapositions and weird, dreamlike sculptures catch the eye, though you’ll also find landscapes and colourful plates and vases. SUM MER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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5
LYON
UNESCO-listed Lyon has an eclectic array of art. Intricate mosaics and evocative stainedglass windows are sure to win over anyone who steps inside the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, and similarly impressive are the huge murals covering walls across the city. Painted in the trompe l’oeil style, the outdoor art depicts historical events, famous faces and mundane moments of everyday life.
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ARLES
With its remarkable Roman ruins, vibrant colours and luminous sunlight, Arles has long-inspired artists, including world-famous Vincent van Gogh. The postimpressionist spent 15 months in the French town from 1888 to 1889 and, during this time, finished 200 paintings. Today visitors can express their artistic sides by taking a painting class at La Couverture Verte before immersing themselves in some of the sights the painter captured on canvas on an included walking tour.
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A gigantic cache of glittering treasures awaits to be discovered in Dresden Castle. Housed in the baroque chambers of the Green Vault, the collection includes everything from ornate silverware with polished coral handles and portrait reliefs of royalty carved in cherry wood and ivory to shimmering crystal bowls, jewelled gold figurines and the finest green diamond in the world. Fans of the Old Masters, meanwhile, can visit Dresden’s Picture Gallery for works by Raphael, Vermeer and Rubens. 26
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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY/AWL IMAGES
DRESDEN
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SHANGHAI
Not far from Shanghai’s elegant riverfront promenade, known as the Bund, is the People’s Square, where a building resembling an ancient, bronze cooking vessel grabs everyone’s attention. This is the Shanghai Museum, dedicated to ancient Chinese art. Calligraphy, bronzes, furniture, jade, coins, paintings, sculptures and ceramics are among the many treasures on display throughout the 11 galleries.
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AMSTERDAM
ILLUSTRATION: © GETTY IMAGES
Amsterdam may be famous for its canals and cobblestones, but the city is also home to some amazing artworks. The Van Gogh Museum showcases over 200 paintings from the celebrated artist, works by other Dutch greats including Rembrandt and Vermeer are on display at the Rijksmuseum, and the Stedelijk Museum is an enclave of modern and contemporary art.
ST. PETERSBURG St. Petersburg’s galleries and museums are up there with the world’s best. And who could expect anything less from this dazzling city. First choice for many is the Hermitage Museum where a magnificent art collection spans from 7th-century BC Scythian gold to some of Picasso’s Blue Period paintings to the best collection of English art in Continental Europe. To see Russian art, the Russian Museum is the place to visit. SUM MER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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Summer promise Award-winning garden designer, Paul Hervey-Brookes, looks forward to basking in the summer sun
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Top to bottom: A living willow tree sculpture will enliven any garden; Aquilegia brings a riot of colour in May and June; grow your own herbs and never run out of your favourites
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ummer is a time of long warm evenings, supper on the terrace and a garden full of flowers, bird song and optimism. Summer is the season we long for the most and is always the season that seems to be over too quickly. The word ‘summer’ originates in Europe. The Old English sumor is of Germanic origin and related to the Dutch zomer which seems fitting as the flowers we most associate with early summer such as Aquilegia (‘Granny’s Bonnet’) and towering Angelica are both European natives and can be seen in bloom in gardens from Cornwall to Budapest in May and June. Both are easily grown from seed and between the
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limey sulfurous blooms of the Angelica and the riot of rich blues, yellows and whites of Aquilegia, the garden begins to call us outside. Summer is naturally when we spend most of our time outside enjoying the fruits of our labour and I always think it is the time we notice the delicate balance between good planting and layout of our gardens and the importance of sculptural elements. If you are sitting in your garden this summer and feel like something is missing the chances are it is that sculptural element. Large olive jars and pots from Greece and Crete look stunning on terraces and in groups in the garden, oozing Mediterranean heat through the summer months. Classical sculptures placed in
herbaceous borders both call us to classical Rome and also playfully allude to the bucolic Rococo period in gardens where trysts may take place in fern rich glades. Sculptures and art often feel more at home in our gardens than in the house to me. They bring the space to life, adding drama, fantasy or a sense of scale and stature. Who wouldn’t say that topiary shapes in beautifully made Versailles plants either side of your door is not an imposing but somewhat reassuring welcome home? Often the garden allows us to commission works which simply wouldn’t fit in any other
GARDENING
OUT
SUMMER JOBS
•
Ensure potted plants are well watered and feed every other month to ensure they are healthy. • If you have indoor plants which originate from tropical climates or the Mediterranean these can be brought outside into the garden from the end of May for a few months of natural light and air which will benefit the foliage and their overall growth enormously. setting so harmoniously – abstract sculpture carved in stone or pieces made from materials such as driftwood or recycled metals take on new forms which energise our planting schemes or allow us to re-imagine a landscape.
WEAVING WITH WILLOW
On a much smaller scale, wire sculptures of abstract forms or rusty metal flower buds can be successfully used in borders and even shady places. Willow and hazel lend themselves to being formed into living obelisks, podlike children’s dens, shady arbours and even (with patience!) living furniture. It is easy to give it a go, and to cut and start again without the plants in question dying. For home-grown inspiration and to see
& ABOUT
There are plenty of English gardens which can transport you to faraway climes. Whether you chance upon a new gem or rediscover an old favourite, the beauty of gardens is that you’ll find a different version each time you visit depending on the season. If you fancy a weekend away and want to visit some amazing gardens inspired by travel and fantasy, these are my top choices:
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Deadheading flowers will encourage continued bloom. • Easy crops like radish, ball courgette, beetroot, annual herbs and even tomatoes can be sown or planted with harvest guaranteed within a few short weeks. the scale of what you could weave, have a look at the work of Tom Hare, known as ‘the willow man’.
HELPFUL HERBS
In my raised beds I also grow a few firm favourite herbs which I know are either difficult to get in the shops or I need a lot of, this includes French tarragon which needs overwinter protection but is the taste of summer to me, and basil which needs to be watered in the morning and go to bed as it were with dry feet and a couple of different varieties of mint. Variegated mints finely chopped add an amazing vibrancy to salads where as deep green ginger mint adds a little wow to Pimm’s! Follow Paul on twitter and Instagram @herveybrookes
RHS CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW, LONDON
A dizzying array of inspirational gardens and the nation’s best growers of plants show off their skills. This year I’m the designer behind the Art of Viking Garden, do say hello if you visit! rhs.org.uk
EAST LAMBROOK MANOR, SOMERSET
Created by the indomitable Margery Fish and her husband in the 1950s and 1960s, this bucolic cottage garden inspired Margery’s books, which are still in print, has recently been restored. eastlambrook.com
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; ALAMY
THE DINGLE GARDEN, WALES
This four-acre garden is well-known for its colour-themed and imaginative planting, and includes many rare shrubs, trees and herbaceous plants, as well as a glorious lake. dinglenurseryandgarden.co.uk
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Woven sun hat (£32, Dune) Hawaiian dress (£60, Monsoon)
Breton t-shirt (£29.95, White Stuff)
Smart shorts (£25, Wallis)
Tailored blazer (£42, Wallis)
For women...
A packing list built around denim basics and neutral layers will ensure that you are prepared for any climate and any activity
Capsule
Sunglasses (£100, Folli Folli)
collection
Spotted culottes (£45, Monsoon)
Have fun this summer by mixing classic stripes and colourful prints with smart tailoring and neutral accessories
Ditsy jacket (£65, Cath Kidston)
Leather backpack (£130, Cath Kidston)
Cropped jeans (£40, Debenhams)
Floral top and white chinos (both from Cotton Traders)
Colourful trainers (£25, Marks & Spencer)
Swimsuit (from a selection at White Stuff)
FA S H I O N
Striped sun hat (£39, Seaspray)
and for men...
Add a Breton stripe to add interest to a classic wardrobe
Blue jumpsuit (£85, Hush)
Straw hat (£14, Burton)
Textured cardigan (£29.50, Marks & Spencer)
Woven bag (£32.50, Accessorize)
Striped t-shirt (£9.50, Marks & Spencer)
Striped scarf (£45, Hush)
Chino shorts (£39.95, White Stuff)
Pinafore dress (£60, Monsoon)
Leather trainers (£89.95, Barbour)
Wide-brimmed hat (£32, Dune)
Beaded earrings (£10, Accessorize) Bandeau swimsuit (£78, Seaspray)
Canvas backpack (£95, Next)
Swallow print shirt (from Burton)
Metallic espadrilles (£45, Marks & Spencer)
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Remarkable Russia, with Viking Golden-domed cathedrals. Ancient wooden churches. Gingerbread-style houses. Palaces beyond compare. Villages that time forgot. There is no more rewarding way to explore Russia than along its waterways. And no more inspiring journey than Viking’s Waterways of the Tsars. Between St. Petersburg and Moscow (with three days to explore each of these glorious cities), discover numerous riverside towns and more remote treasures, including picturesque Yaroslavl, historic Uglich, enchanting Kizhi and Mandrogy. Every day brings more rich and unique insights into this fascinating country.
2020 Waterways of the Tsars 13-day river cruise from £2,795pp Call now on 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk IMPORTANT: VISA REQUIRED A Russian visa must be arranged in advance for an approximate cost of £240 per person. An Invitation Letter to Russia, which costs approximately £30 per person, must also be obtained for submission with the visa application. Please note that current Russian visa regulations require a personal visit to the Russian Embassy in either London, Edinburgh or Manchester to complete the application process, which is at your own cost. The application for a Russian visa will involve answering a comprehensive list of questions. Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to change. From price is per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available on Waterways of the Tsars, departing on selected dates in 2020. Prices valid until 30 June 2019. Single supplements apply. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.
ITINERARY
Magnificent
RUSSIA
Prepare for the real Russia to reveal itself on this immersive Viking river cruise
Above: St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow is one of Russia’s most iconic sights
DAYS 1, 2, 3 & 4 / MOSCOW, RUSSIA A major cultural metropolis and political hub, Moscow is immense in scale. At its heart is the Kremlin and Red Square, where you can wander beside the walls of the ancient fortress, marvel at St. Basil’s Cathedral and be wowed by the many ornate towers and palaces. The Cosmonaut Museum, the Tretyakov Gallery and a Jewish Moscow tour will also entertain and enlighten.
DAY 5 / UGLICH, RUSSIA After a morning cruise along the Volga River, arrive in Uglich, one of the Golden Ring cities which preserve the memory of Russia’s historical events. See the former Kremlin of Uglich and visit the Church of St. Dmitry on the Blood before a local family invites you to their home for tea and friendly conversation.
DAY 6 / YAROSLAVL, RUSSIA
DAY 8 / KIZHI, RUSSIA Admire the tranquil waters of Lake Onega on your morning cruise before arriving in Kizhi, the island village home to the Open Air Museum of Architecture.
DAY 9 / MANDROGY, RUSSIA Sail the scenic Svir River and call at the museum village Mandrogy. Discover the Vodka Museum, shop for handmade Russian crafts or visit a banya - a traditional Russian bath house. Back on board, the ship will make its way to the Neva River.
DAYS 10, 11, 12 & 13 / ST. PETERSBURG, RUSSIA
DAY 7 / KUZINO, RUSSIA
Graced by grand boulevards, a lacework of canals, ornate palaces and dazzling domed churches, St. Petersburg never fails to amaze. By day, discover top attractions such as the State Hermitage Museum, the Winter Palace, Peterhof Palace and St. Isaac’s Cathedral. Later in the evening enjoy a performance of a traditional Russian ballet in an elegant theatre.
The crown jewel of the Russian village Kuzino is the Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery, founded by Saint Cyril in 1397. After a morning exploring the historic grounds and the Assumption Cathedral, return to your ship and
The 13-day Waterways of the Tsars itinerary from Moscow to St. Petersburg or in reverse starts from £2,795pp
Yaroslavl is another Golden Ring city. A must for anybody visiting this monument-rich ancient town is a trip to the covered food market, which also sells handcrafted souvenirs. PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
relax as you take in the views while cruising along the picturesque Volga-Baltic Waterway.
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In search of ANCIENT EGYPT A last-chance attempt to find archaeological gold paid off for Lord Carnarvon and his friend Howard Carter. We visit Highclere Castle to discover the mysteries of a forgotten tomb
Above: The magnificent Highclere Castle
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ighclere Castle has been home to the Carnarvon family since 1679. Built on an ancient site, the original house was recorded in the Domesday Book. The present-day castle was designed in 1842 by Sir Charles Barry, the architect who built the Houses of Parliament in Westminster. The castle’s history includes a fascinating connection with ancient Egypt, as the 5th Earl of Carnarvon, along with his archaeological colleague, Howard Carter, discovered the tomb of Tutankhamun in the Valley of the
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Kings in 1922. More recently, of course, Highclere was the location of the world-famous and muchloved Downton Abbey series.
THE PATH TO DISCOVERY Lord Carnarvon and Howard Carter worked together for 16 years, planning their expeditions from the comfort of Highclere Castle. The exhibition in Highclere’s cellars explores the life and interests of Lord Carnarvon, his passion for cars, his talents as a pioneering photographer and his travels. Visitors can see what happened to the estate during the
Great War from 1914 to 1918. After 1918, Lord Carnarvon found his financial situation was becoming increasingly difficult. Both Lord Carnarvon and Carter had been ill and were becoming discouraged, with very little to show for long hours of effort and toil in Egypt. But they had been convinced there were yet more tombs to be found in the Valley of the Kings and had created a system of grids to cover the ground in an organised way. In June 1922, during a weekend at Highclere, Lord Carnarvon agreed that they would have one more excavation
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Above, clockwise, from top left: Howard Carter and Lord Carnarvon; the Irtyru cabinet; Lady Carnarvon admires the sarcophagus; the entrance to Tutankhamun’s tomb; the sarcophagus
season in Egypt during the coming autumn and winter. There was one more grid area to cover. The decision had fateful consequences. Later that year, Lord Carnarvon and Carter cleared the passageway down to the plastered sealed door which led into the antechamber of Tutankhamen’s tomb: “Together, the excavators stood in front looking at the seal impressions... Nervously, Carter made a small hole in the door, and reached up to hold a candle. The candle flickered as the air escaped.” The excavators widened the gaps in the plaster and Lady Evelyn, Lord Carnarvon’s
daughter, Lord Carnarvon and Carter climbed in and everywhere “there was the glint of gold.” Lord Carnarvon both discovered and purchased Egyptian artifacts. He created one of the most extraordinary Egyptian collections in the world, with exquisite works of art. Following his death in 1923, the collection was sold by his widow to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York to pay death duties. Carter had cataloged it and commented that he had left a few items at Highclere. They were tucked away in cupboards until they were rediscovered by
the family in 1987. The British Museum and Newbury Museum have lent back further antiquities, which had originally been loaned to them by the Carnarvon family. Visitors to Highclere can observe the jewellery, the beautifully crafted jars and a coffin of a noble woman from 3,500 years ago, as well as photographs of Lord Carnarvon’s expeditions.
• We are proud to sponsor the London leg of the TUTANKHAMUN: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh world tour, opening at the Saatchi Gallery in November. SUM MER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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The Allure of
RIVER CRUISING Travel writer Marcus Adams swaps his boat shoes for walking shoes as he travels on his first river cruise along the Danube, from Passau to Budapest
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The first thing that struck me was how the clever design makes the ship feel cosy as well as open and inviting. This is repeated in the rooms on board. While they are typically smaller than what I’ve experienced on ocean ships, they are very comfortable, with plush beds and bedding, plenty of storage, heated bathroom floors and premium bath products. While I knew the ships would of course be smaller, I had not anticipated the intimacy of the whole experience. There is a true family feel, with guests coming together over dinner and drinks every night to share their experiences. It is a very relaxed and communal affair. Staff also provide a level of personalised service I have never experienced on an ocean cruise. They really took the time to get to know us all, as well as our preferences, to genuinely provide the best trip possible. Whenever I’ve pictured river cruising, particularly in Europe, I’ve seen it as a great way to ‘destination hop’. And this was definitely the case. Each day you wake up in another place to explore. I love this concept and while the ships are beautiful, to me, river cruising is all about embracing the destinations you are visiting. And the ships themselves make the possibilities endless. Due
Clockwise, from far left: The stately Hungarian Parliament Building and Széchenyi Chain Bridge are two of the most famous symbols of Budapest; Marcus Adams on board Viking Longship Vilhjalm
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY
I
’ve been an ocean cruiser for over 25-years. It’s taken me all over the world and introduced me to people and places I could never have dreamt of. But in all that time I’ve never once stepped foot on a river cruise. It’s something that’s been playing on my mind for the last few years – partly to see if it’s anything like an ocean cruise, but also to visit new destinations and have new experiences. Ever since I was little, I have been fascinated by the rivers of Europe – the arteries that feed some of the most famous and intriguing places and the crucial role they’ve played throughout history. The Danube has always particularly intrigued me and when an opportunity came along to find out more, I jumped at the chance. After a short flight from London and a simple transfer, we joined the Longship Viking Vilhjalm in warm and sunny Passau to experience the Danube River in all its glory. I’ll be honest, I had no idea what to expect, and actually that was really exciting in itself. Stepping on board we were warmly greeted by the ship manager, Thomas, and his friendly staff and we were encouraged to head straight to the sunny Aquavit Terrace for a wine and cheese tasting. We were immediately thrown into the local culture of the Danube – sampling local wines, cheeses and delicacies. It was a great way to relax into the journey, have a taste of what was to come and to get to know fellow guests and staff. I know Viking ocean cruises very well, having sailed with them in both the Caribbean and through Norway. I love their approach to cruising – providing an effortless and comfortable way to see the world. And their ships are beautiful, too. Scandi-styling and bright, airy, outward-facing spaces invite you to connect with the world around you. It was exciting to see how this would translate to river. And I wasn’t disappointed. The design of the river ships echoes that of their ocean-going cousins. And I love them. Radiating Viking’s unique Scandi-style, the whole ship is spacious and elegant, with large windows which let light flood inside. From the gorgeous atrium to the comfortable lounge, it has a boutique hotel feel.
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Viking includes an excursion in almost every port of call. From the art and music of Vienna to the culture of Bratislava and the history of Budapest, I learnt something new every day. It all provides a truly inspirational experience and you come away feeling richer for it. This is no mean feat to achieve, and our very talented Programme Director, Terry, did an amazing job of ensuring guests got as much as they could from each experience while having fun along the way. An included highlight had to be spending the day visiting Český Krumlov in the Czech Republic. A true fairy tale destination and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is famed for its 14th to 17th century architecture in Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles – it’s really something to behold. I’ve always loved the food on board Viking ocean ships, and
this also translates well to the river fleet. Expect breakfasts with a wide variety of freshly made choices and (at least) three-course lunches served in the restaurant. If you fancy something a little more casual, head to the Aquavit Terrace to enjoy an al fresco meal (or even a barbecue). At dinner, expect fare inspired by regional specialities, featuring local ingredients wherever possible. This is another way Viking connects guests to the destinations they are sailing through. While a river cruise can cost the same or more than other holidays, you have to remember that everything is pretty much included. With Viking, expect inclusive return flights from the UK, accommodation, all onboard meals (and wine and beer with lunch and dinner), transfers, enrichment programmes and, of course, daily excursions, including
Clockwise, from above: Colourful buildings line the waterfront in Passau; sunrise over the Sun Deck of Vilhjalm; the Shoes on the Danube Bank honours the Jews killed in Budapest in World War II; Göttweig Abbey in Austria’s scenic Wachau Valley
PHOTOS: © -ISTOCK
to their design, the river ships can dock right in the middle of a destination – something I hadn’t truly appreciated before getting on board. Budapest is a great example of this – you literally dock next to the famous Chain Bridge in the middle of all the sights and sounds of the city. It’s the perfect chance to get off the ship after dinner for a walk along the Danube, a drink in a local bar or a taste of the vibrant nightlife on offer in the city. Days typically consist of a morning or afternoon of cruising, excursions in a port for half or a whole day, and overnights in places such as Passau and Budapest. This definitely keeps you busy – more so than when on an ocean cruise. With all the enriching excursions, ever-changing scenery and activities on board the ship, there’s no lack of opportunities to keep occupied – if that’s what you want to do.
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visits to UNESCO World Heritage Sites. When it comes down to it, it’s incredibly good value and, as a bonus, it takes the stress out of having to budget while you’re away. Being a long-time ocean traveller, I was expecting river cruising to be very similar, but coming away from my first experience, I’m happy to say I was wrong. There are clear similarities between the two in terms of how days are typically structured, and, well, that you’re sailing from destination to destination, but that’s where the similarities end. I often say that cruising has something for everyone. In my view, there is a ship and an itinerary to suit you, no matter who you are, and river cruising opens up a whole new world of destinations. River is perfect for those who don’t necessarily want to share space with a lot of people and, in particular,
those who love city breaks. Personally, I’ve never been a huge fan of city getaways, mostly because I’m restless and like to explore multiple places so, actually, river cruising, for me, is the perfect way to see the cities of the world. It’s also a great way to immerse yourself in a culture and elevate your experience of many different destinations without ever having to pack or unpack between each new place or face the uncertainty of what your hotel will be like when you turn up. While I can see how this principle has been translated to Viking ocean cruises, it’s a hugely effective part of river cruising and a real selling point. If you are considering your first river cruise, the Danube is a great place to start. It honestly has something for everyone, whether it is the dramatic sights of Budapest, the culture of Vienna or perhaps
wine tasting in the famous Wachau Valley. I loved and appreciated the history of this part of the world and it was incredible to learn how the countries and cities I visited have changed and been influenced so dramatically over the years. I knew I’d like river cruising, but it has exceeded my expectations and has opened up a new world of destinations I’d like to visit. I don’t know what my next adventure will be, but the fact it could be sailing through Vietnam along the Mekong or embracing ancient Egypt on the Nile or perhaps even enjoying the local cuisine and wine in Portugal’s Douro region has me filled with excitement. Doesn’t it all sound so alluring? An eight-day Danube Waltz cruise from Passau to Budapest, or the reverse, starts at £1,195pp vikingcruises.co.uk SUM MER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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T R AV E L
IT’S ALL ABOUT LAYERING SHAWL, £30, BARBOUR
GO WIRELESS PORTABLE BLUETOOTH SPEAKER, £99, UE
DEBENHAMS LIGHTWEIGHT RUCKSACKS, FROM
It can get chilly and windy up on deck so layer up with a warm and cosy shawl.
ALL HANDS ON DECK HAND CREAM, £18, CLARINS
This nourishing yet light hand cream is perfect for moisturising hands.
Packing
ESSENTIALS
The UE Boom 3 is one of the best portable Bluetooth speakers, boasting 15 hours of battery time.
Inspired by his river cruise, Marcus Adams shares his best travel buys
CAPTURING MEMORIES CAMERA, £699, SONY
The Sony A6300 has everything you need, from interchangeable lenses, to high definition filming and wireless connectivity.
THESE SHOES ARE MADE FOR WALKING BERTIE LEATHER TRAINERS, £85, DUNE
RAIN RAIN GO AWAY LIGHTWEIGHT JACKET, £200, NORTH FACE
The weather can be unpredictable in Europe, so make sure you pack a reliable, rain-proof jacket. 40
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These useful everyday shoes are perfect for a day of exploring, or equally walking to the pub after.
CARRY-ON CRUISING CABIN BAG, £225, AWAY
This perfect and very light carry-on will fit in almost any overhead locker. It even has a lifetime guarantee.
CHARITY
Charity MISSION The UK Sepsis Trust is one of the new charities we’ve partnered with this year as we strive to help raise awareness of the life-threatening condition Left: Layla Astley fundraising for The UK Sepsis Trust at an event
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edicated to putting a stop to preventable deaths from the condition as well as improving outcomes for survivors, the UK Sepsis Trust is a charity Viking is proud to support. This year, we will accompany the Trust in its quest to help increase awareness of sepsis and, in turn, save thousands of lives through earlier identification and treatment of the condition. The UK Sepsis Trust says: “We’re so excited to be embarking on this journey of awareness and safeguarding with Viking by educating their staff and customers about this ‘killer condition’.” WHAT IS SEPSIS?
Sepsis, also known as blood poisoning, is the body’s overreaction to an infection or injury. Normally our immune system fights infection, but sometimes, for reasons we don’t yet know, it attacks our own organs. If not treated immediately, sepsis can rapidly lead to organ failure and death. Yet with early diagnosis, it can be treated with antibiotics. The numbers are staggering: every year in the UK, 250,000 people are affected
by sepsis, with 52,000 people dying from the condition and 60,000 suffering permanent and life-changing after-effects. This means sepsis kills more people than bowel, breast and prostate cancer and road accidents combined. But despite these shocking statistics, knowledge of the condition remains far too low. WHO IS AT RISK?
Sepsis is an indiscriminate killer. It claims young and old lives alike, and even affects those who were previously fit and healthy. However, some groups are more at risk of developing sepsis, including the very young, the very old, those more prone to infection and those who are pregnant. WHAT ARE THE SIGNS?
Seek medical help urgently if you or another adult develop any of these signs: • Slurred speech or confusion • Extreme shivering or muscle pain • Passing no urine (in a day) • Severe breathlessness • It feels like you’re going to die • Skin mottled or discoloured
WHAT IS THE UK SEPSIS TRUST?
Dr Ron Daniels BEM founded the charity in 2012 after seeing too many people die needlessly from sepsis in his role as an NHS consultant. The Trust has a clear mission to save lives and improve outcomes for survivors of sepsis by instigating political change, educating healthcare professionals, raising public awareness and providing support for those affected. By realising these goals, the Trust could save 14,000 lives a year. It would also result in 400,000 fewer days in hospital for sepsis patients every year and, ultimately, transform the way the condition is handled in the UK. Viking has already started fundraising for the Trust (see page 6) and will be hosting other initiatives throughout 2019. Look out for ways in which you can get involved over the upcoming months. sepsistrust.org
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POSTCARD from
S HANG H A I Food writer and blogger Rebecca Wiggins set sail to Shanghai and wrote to tell us about her adventure
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
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enturies ago in ancient China, before dynasties and emperors, legend has it that the people gathered in groups, identifying themselves with the symbol of an animal. When the snake people fought with the deer people and defeated them, they took the deer’s horn and added it to their snake to show off their great victory. Then, when they defeated the roosters they added the rooster’s feet to their strange creature with the snake’s body and the deer’s horn. When they, in turn, were defeated by the group whose symbol was a horse, the people took the deer’s horn and the snake’s body with the rooster’s feet and added the horse’s face. Slowly, slowly, the mythical dragon was born. Our Viking guide, Roy, tells us this magical story as we gaze at the breath-taking dragon wall that surrounds the five-acre Yu Garden, hidden away in the very centre of Shanghai – an oasis of koi ponds, pretty gardens and intricately decorated pagodas surrounded by the looming skyscrapers of the modern city. We arrived in Shanghai the afternoon before, dumping our bags and setting out from our luxurious hotel, the Portman Ritz-Carlton, eager to explore this dazzling city. As the sun sets, every street is lit with a million twinkling lights and people jostle along packed pavements (they eat early in Shanghai – the restaurants are heaving by 6pm). A friend who has lived in Shanghai told us to seek out the famous local dumplings, and following the crowd, we stumbled across the Wujiang Road Leisure Street, packed full of restaurants and food stalls where we found Yang’s – a bit of a Shanghai institution – and dined on fried dumplings. We also discovered that they contained soup which is like lava and has the tendency to burst out all over your shirt when you bite into them. It’s a testament to how delicious they are that you really don’t mind! It’s fun to explore, but we were glad to meet up with Roy, our guide, to properly discover Shanghai. After the beautiful gardens, we crossed the zigzag bridge to wander the neighbouring Yuyuan Bazaar, jostling shoulders with scores of visitors, marvelling at the incredible architecture and wandering the stalls selling everything from silk and jade to souvenirs and more dumplings (tempting). From the Bazaar, we wandered through the old streets to visit a silk workshop and watch a fascinating silk embroidery demonstration. Each
embroidered picture can take up to ten months and I honestly couldn’t see the thread the artisan was using, it was so fine. The results are delicate, shimmering works of art, worth thousands of pounds. Our afternoon was spent discovering the treasures of the beautiful Shanghai Museum – itself a thing of beauty – designed in the shape of an ancient bronze cooking vessel. We pressed our noses up against cases containing everything from a stone slab carved with 1,000 Buddhas to ancient coins, precious jade artefacts and Ming vases (you can’t visit China without seeing a Ming vase). Once the sun goes down, the bright lights of Shanghai start to appear in all their glory. The atmosphere is electric, and we loved experiencing the city as it came alive in the evening. The next morning, we were up early to hop on a plane to join our ship, Viking Emerald, on the iconic Yangtze River in Wuhan. This taste of Shanghai has given us an appetite for more and we’ll definitely return to this dazzling city – if only for the delicious dumplings! A 15-day Imperial Jewels of China cruise in 2020 starts at £3,045pp vikingcruises.co.uk
Clockwise, from opposite page: The ancient and the modern co-exist beautifully in Shanghai; Rebecca loved the epic cityscape; dumplings were a highlight; the city comes alive at night
Book now
Edvard Munch love and angst 11 April – 21 July 2019 Open late Fridays Members free
Supported by
In collaboration with the Munch Museum, Oslo, Norway
Edvard Munch (1863–1944), The Scream. Lithograph, 1895. Private collection, Norway. c BY 4 The Munch Museum.
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Art on board Nowhere else offers such an impressive floating collection of art as Viking. Learn more about the artists featured, and the reasons that art is valued so highly on board our ocean ships
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o matter how far our journeys take us, we like to remember where we came from, and this is why Viking’s expansive ocean onboard art collection is very much an ode to its Nordic heritage. We have carefully curated a diverse spectrum of work by both established and up-and-coming artists, and not only does the collection pay tribute to all things Norwegian, but it complements the light-filled interiors of the ships and serves as a unique attraction for our guests on board.
A RICH MIX
From oil paintings, photography and sculpture to furniture, model ships and crochet, the size and breadth of Viking’s extensive art collection is staggering and can be seen throughout our ocean ships, from the dining, social and relaxation areas to the corridors beyond, and even in staterooms. On Viking Sea, high tea is served in the Wintergarden where Norwegian photographer Isabel Tellefsen’s simple but striking coastal shot Nesodden adorns the wall alongside an abstract marble sculpture named Aurora created by Knut Steen, who is one of Norway’s most celebrated sculptors. On Deck 7 of Viking Sky, the World Café showcases Kate Jenkin’s knitted and embellished depictions of food. From fresh fish and sushi to cocktail canapes and Scandinavian open sandwiches, the British artist’s comedic touch rarely goes unnoticed. Impressions from Nature by Norway’s most prominent abstract painter, Jakob Weidemann, takes pride of place in The Restaurant on Deck 2 of Viking Orion, while the art in Viking Sun’s Explorers’ Lounge is a rich mix of enigmatic nature photography, Romanesque tapestry and the actual bow of a well-preserved Viking ship.
DIGITAL EXTRAS
These are just a few examples of the artworks on display and making the most of the collection could not be easier. Guests can get to know the collection before they travel by downloading the free Viking Art Guide app and listening to the behind-the-scenes stories from Viking’s Executive Vice President, Karine Hagen, as well as artists, designers and curators. Once on board, the app can then be used to enjoy a self-guided
tour. There is also the chance to experience daily ‘Munch Moments’ in the Atrium thanks to an exclusive partnership with Oslo’s Munch Museum which grants Viking the digital rights to the entire collection of Edvard Munch, Norway’s most famous artist. Meticulously tailoring the art, as well as the art-related activities, we aim to enrich the time of each and every guest on board, and it is impossible to find a better art collection anywhere else at sea.
Clockwise, from top: Viking guests can use the Viking Art Guide app to go on a selfguided tour of onboard artworks; guests uncover more works of art using the app
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ARTIST PROFILE:
Kate Jenkins British textile artist Kate Jenkins injects her imaginative knitted artworks with a dash of wit, perfectly complementing her technical craftsmanship and sense of texture
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ritish artist Kate Jenkins knits and crochets food and everyday objects and always seeks to add a side-helping of humour into the finished product. Originally from Wales, and now based in Brighton, Kate trained as a knitwear designer but has been making quirky foodinspired creations for more than 20 years now. Having learnt to knit and crochet at the age of eight, Kate pursued a career in knitwear, creating designs for international fashion labels including Missoni, Donna Karan and Ralph Lauren. But, inspired by the everyday objects around her, and particularly food, she began reinventing wellknown dishes – like fish and chips and that other British favourite, the fry-up – in wool. Initially worried that no-one would be interested in her work, Kate’s first exhibition, called Comfort Food, featuring crocheted bottles of ketchup amongst other things, was a huge success and she was inspired to continue. Combining a love of wool, textile and colour has been a winning formula, and subsequent exhibitions have included the creation of an entire fish counter, with works of art laid out on a bed on ice, and most recently a bakery complete with grumpy croissants and very French baguettes. The fish counter was inspired by visits Kate undertook to see different fish markets in action all over the world, from Tokyo and Copenhagen, to Billingsgate in London. On opening night, Kate even dressed as a fishmonger and sold pieces over the counter, which were then plated up for customers buying the work. Viking’s ocean ships all display pieces of Kate’s work, including Scandinavian open sandwiches featuring prawns embellished with sequins and beads, a crab and chilli
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linguine, as well as super-stylish cocktails and canapes dotted with caviar created out of tiny beads. The materials are sourced all over the world, with sequins coming from India and beads from Japan, and Kate is always on the lookout for unusual metallic, opalescent and iridescent sequins which make for effective fish scales. Whilst all of Kate’s creations look incredibly realistic, it is the addition of humourous touches which lift her pieces to another level, and above all, makes her audience smile.
Clockwise, from top: Sardines on Toast is plated up and framed with a knife and fork; the fish counter in all its glory
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ARTIST PROFILE:
Jakob Weidemann
Pivotal in introducing abstract art to Norwegians in the decades after the Second World War, painter Jakob Weidemann is considered one of the most influential artists in Norway
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orn in 1923 at Steinkjer in Nord-Trøndelag, Norway, Weidemann started his art training at Bergen Art School in 1939 before relocating to Oslo a few years later to study at the Norwegian National Academy of Fine Arts. In the year he left the academy (1942), he held his first solo exhibition. His success, however, was overshadowed by the occupation of Norway by Nazi Germany, and Weidemann joined the Norwegian resistance movement. Arrested, he managed to escape to Sweden in 1944 where an awful accident involving an explosive charge left him temporarily blinded. He only ever regained sight in his left eye.
Art historian Karin Hellandsjø has suggested this blindness may be behind the direction his art was to take – ‘towards an explosion of colour and light’. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, Weidemann experimented with different artistic ideas, and eventually found his style in an expressive, lyrically abstract art with nature as inspiration. The artist did not use concrete, recognisable motifs. Rather, he depicted experiences and impressions, as well as colours, shapes and structures, from the natural world in an abstract way. Many of his paintings in this style are characterised by light hues of blue, pink, yellow, green and violet. His breakthrough exhibition
took place at Blomqvist’s Fine Art Gallery in Oslo in 1946, and other notable showcases of his work took place twice at the Bergen International Festival and at the Venice Biennale in 1967. The National Museum of Art in Oslo owns over 30 of his paintings. Among the most renowned pieces on display are Brytningstid (1968), Epleblomst (1973) and Blomst I sne (1995), translated respectively as Breaking time, Apple Flower and Flower in snow. Viking is also the proud owner of some of Weidemann’s works, including two untitled paintings from 1963 and 1976 showcased on board Viking Sea, and Impressions of Nature (1985), which can be seen on board Viking Sun.
Clockwise, from top left: A Jakob Weidemann painting in the Restaurant on board Viking Star; Blomst I sne (1995) can be translated as Flower in snow; Winter Landscape (1954) can be seen in the Owner’s Suite on board Viking Sky
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ARTIST PROFILE:
Inger Sitter Not only was Inger Sitter one of great modernist painters of post-war Norway, but she was also a passionate champion of the rights of other artists
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espite being born in Trondheim in 1929, Inger Sitter spent much of her childhood split between Antwerp, where she lived with her mother, and sailing around Europe with her father, who worked for a Norwegian shipping company. Sitter’s transitory upbringing, however, did not stop her being something of a child prodigy. She made her art debut at the Trondheim Art Association aged just 13 and, two years later, became the youngest ever student to attend the Norwegian National Academy of Fine Arts – where she would return as a professor in 1981. Solo exhibitions were to follow her studies, but the abstract art for which she is most renowned blossomed from the mid- to late-1950s. During this time, she was married to fellow Norwegian artist Carl Nesjar, who worked on projects with Pablo Picasso. Known as lyrical abstraction, her style is recognised by loose brushstrokes and an intuitive working process, as well as its raw and immediate expression and connection to nature. After living between Norway, Italy and France, she eventually settled on the Norwegian island of Tjøme, and the coastline here with its naked rocks and stones are understood to have been a great source of inspiration for the artist and forms a continuous backdrop in her subject matter. Sitter did not simply excel at abstract painting. She was also known for her passionate engagement with the Norwegian art scene and was a key figure in paving the way for nonfigurative painting in Norway’s deeply conservative, figurative and Romantic post-war art scene. Likewise, deeply concerned with securing income for artists, she was a committed advocate of the
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rights of fellow artists and worked hard lobbying the Labour Party politicians in power to guarantee a minimum wage for artists. She is remembered, too, as one of the driving forces for the creation of the Norwegian Arts Council. After a seven-decade-long career,
which saw her pick up numerous awards, she died in 2015. Her works are included in permanent collections of several museums, including the National Gallery of Norway and the Henie-Onstad Art Centre. Several of her works also form part of Viking’s collection.
Above: Ingrid Sitter’s work is often characterised by loose brushstrokes and is inspired by nature
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ARTIST PROFILE:
Edward Munch A tenacious approach to painting, drawing and print-making made Norwegian artist Edvard Munch one of the most significant figures in Modernist art
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orn in Norway in 1863, Munch’s childhood was marked by tragedy. His mother died from tuberculosis when he was just five years old and his older sister, Sophia, died from the same disease nine years later. These bereavements left a lifelong impression on Munch and are thought to have influenced the themes of loss, anxiety and human vulnerability which pervade much of his work. In particular, Death in the Sickroom (1895) and The Sick Child (1907) draw on his early experiences of grief. Raised in Kristiania (today’s Oslo), Munch enrolled at the city’s Royal School of Art and Design in 1881. He began to live a Bohemian life and made friends with nihilist Hans Jæger, who encouraged Munch to paint his own emotional and psychological state and his distinctive style began to emerge. But travel brought new influences. Arriving in Paris in 1889, he was greatly inspired by Paul Gauguin, Vincent van Gogh and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. Munch then spent several years exhibiting and working in Berlin from 1892 before dividing most of his time between the two cities. During this decade, Munch was part of the Symbolist movement
and embarked on The Frieze of Life, a major canon of work depicting deep emotions such as love, anxiety, jealousy and betrayal. Included in this series is The Scream, which has become one of the most iconic images in art history. Representing an expression of existential anxiety and despair of the modern man, the painting features thick bands of intense colour and highly stylised forms. From the turn of the century,
Munch pioneered expressionist art. In 1909, he returned to Norway and his reunion with Norwegian nature resulted in a multitude of landscapes, as well as his monumental paintings – History, The Sun and Alma Mater – for the University of Aula. Munch spent the last two decades of his life working in peace and privacy at his estate in Ekely, Skøyen, where he died in January 1944. In over 60 years as an artist he produced an impressive 1,000 paintings, 4,000 drawings and 15,400 prints. Alongside The Scream, other renowned pieces from the ‘radical father of Expressionism’ include Night in St. Cloud (1890), Madonna (1894-95) and The Dance of Life (1889). More than half of his paintings and nearly all of his print reliefs are on display at the Munch Museum in Oslo while Viking is the proud custodian of the largest private collection outside of the Norwegian capital, with 28 original pieces on display on its ocean ships.
Clockwise, from above: A self portrait by Edvard Munch painted in 1895; many pieces of Munch’s work can be seen on board Viking ships
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A guiding star We catch up with Wendy Atkin-Smith, Managing Director of Viking UK, to hear how it felt to be appointed Godmother to Viking’s new river ship, Viking Sigrun
Above: Wendy AtkinSmith at the christening of Viking Sigrun; Wendy with her fellow godmothers and Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen at the christening of Viking’s seven new river ships
How do you feel about being asked to be a Viking godmother?
It is such an honour, particularly because my fellow godmothers and I were all chosen because of our personal contribution to the success of Viking. Having worked with Viking since it opened its own UK office, this meant a lot to me. One of the highlights was meeting the crew on my ship, Viking Sigrun, at the naming ceremony. I had not fully appreciated the special relationship the godmother has with the crew of their ship before – it is like a family. I am really looking forward to sailing on Viking Sigrun, not least because the Rhine is one of my favourite river cruises.
to a total of 79. These ships have 20 per cent more staterooms than other river cruise lines and offer three decks which gives guests much more space. My favourite spot for al fresco dining or taking in the views is the Aquavit Terrace at the bow – it is such a clever design. We are also launching a new ship which has been specifically designed for the Douro – one of our most popular itineraries. Despite our rapid growth we offer a consistent level of service across our fleet, river and ocean, which is really important to our guests. And our ocean fleet is expanding too.We have just launched Viking Jupiter, our sixth ocean ship, which makes us the world’s largest small ship cruise line.
What are Vikings’ expansion plans?
Tell us more about the new ships on order?
We revolutionised the industry with the introduction of our signature Viking Longships in 2012 and we are continuing to expand with the launch of six new Viking Longships this year, bringing our river fleet 50
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We have six ocean ships under construction. Our Chairman, Torstein Hagen, recently announced that we will be launching seven new river ships in 2020, including two new Viking Longships, four new ships
INTERVIEW
designed for the Seine and one new ship for the Nile. When Viking introduces Viking Osiris in 2020, we will become the first Western company to own and operate a newly built ship on the Nile. It is one of our most popular destinations in the world and is nearly fully booked until the end of 2020 so we are really excited about this exciting development which will allow more people to explore such a fascinating part of the world. What are the current trends in the world of river cruising and how are you addressing them?
back on board the ship, and we don’t charge corkage if they want to bring local wines on board. Having said that, as a huge fan of river cruising, since my very first cruise on the Rhine 25 years ago, I am really pleased that word is spreading amongst younger generations. What’s not to love? I believe it is the best way to see the world. Which destinations are you focusing on for 2019 and beyond?
As we have limited availability for 2019 and are already Viking does not try to be everything to everyone, we taking bookings for 2020 and 2021 for ocean, it is focus on offering culturally enriching and immersive definitely a case of looking beyond this year. destination experiences on all of our ships. If you With Viking the world is literally your oyster. Since are interested in history, art, culture, food and wine, we launched ocean cruises in 2015 we have expanded then we have some incredibly our portfolio of itineraries. special itineraries that will The Viking Ultimate World At Viking we are allow you to learn whilst you Cruise, which departs from committed to delivering explore the world around you. Greenwich at the end of Our research shows us August this year, will visit exceptional experiences that guests who would not 112 cities and ports in 245 days. It is the longest ever continuous world cruise and normally consider a cruise, but who love city breaks, are realising cruises are a really practical way to do a covers more destinations than any other itinerary. series of city breaks in one holiday. Guests who love From Scandinavia and Northern Europe, the foodie destinations can enjoy local cuisine on a river Mediterranean, the Caribbean, Australia and New cruise, whether it’s in first-rate restaurants on land or Zealand, Asia, Alaska, North and South America, to Africa, all our ocean itineraries are designed to maximise the amount of time travellers spend in each destination. Alaska is new for 2019 and has been extremely popular with UK guests, as well as our In Search of the Northern Lights itinerary which offers frequent sailings between January and March. For river cruises, we are offering guests more choice than ever before and extending our range of current trips. For example, in China guests can choose between Imperial Jewels of China, which is a two-week journey and includes a visit to the panda base in Chengdu, and China Undiscovered which takes place over 19 days. Due to ever increasing demand in Europe we have also introduced two exciting new itineraries to the UK market for the 2019 season: A Tale of Three Rivers and the Rhine & Moselle Discovery.
Clockwise from above: delicious food and wine is a highlight of any Viking cruise; the Aquavit Terrace on board the Viking Longship is one of Wendy’s favourite spots; the christening of Viking Sigrun in Basel was a landmark moment for Wendy
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Meet and greet Viking’s Chef Gaetano Monteriso shares his passion for his home country, Italy, and for the cuisine he creates on board Viking Orion How long have you been working as a chef?
I have been working as a chef since I was 14 years old, so for the last 25 years. And I’ve worked for Viking for the past four years now.
CHEF GAETANO MONTERISO Hailing from Naples, in Italy, Gaetano’s cooking career began in his home city, but has taken him all over the world.
Where did your passion for food come from?
From my mother, she is a great cook and inspired me to create delicious food.
What do you like most about working for Viking?
I love the passion that Viking has for customer service and the fact 52
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that we are able to deliver the best food for our guests. Where did you train to be a chef?
My first job was in Naples in Grand Hotel Vesuvio, overlooking the Bay of Naples. What’s your favourite dish on board and why?
I would say all the dishes are my favourites! Being part of the Corporate team, I’m able to influence and implement the creation of the menus alongside our Culinary Director.
S TA F F P R O F I L E
What did you do before you worked for Viking?
My experience is mostly landbased. When I finished my catering studies in Italy I moved to London, where I worked for hotels including the Sheraton Park Lane, the Ritz, the Cavendish Hotel, and La Trompette restaurant in Chiswick. I then started working at sea and now am happy to be at Viking. What do you enjoy most about your job?
I love all the different aspects, from the busy hours during service times to planning ahead and being in different parts of the world exploring different types of cuisine. What are the challenges of creating high-level cuisine for diners at sea?
It is very important for us to be consistent all the time, insuring that dishes are checked not just once but at least two or three times
Clockwise, from above: The Amalfi Coast in Gaetano’s home country of Italy; innovative food created for Viking guests; The Chef’s Table restaurant on board Viking Orion
until they are absolutely perfect so that no matter where in the world you are you are guaranteed to enjoy your dining experience. Who taught you to cook?
Cooking is a passion, and that passion comes from inside me. But I would say that all the chefs I’ve worked with have had a big influence on me, and they have all played a big role in my life. Do you have any tips for readers cooking at home?
Cooking is an art, and it is a way to express yourself. If you do something, do it right, and take your time until it is perfect. How do you switch off?
I like to spend my free time at home, with my family and to try out different restaurants. What is your favourite destination and why?
Home! I love coming back to Naples, it just reminds me of my childhood. Do you think the high standard of cuisine makes the cruise ship a destination in itself?
I believe that the food on cruise ships during the last few years has really developed, you can get the best quality of ingredients, from vegetables and fruits to meat and fish. I believe that the guests have really high expectations and this is what we aim to meet when they travel with Viking. SUM MER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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TRAVEL
TASTES
Food writer Karen Burns-Booth whips up a range of authentic German and Hungarian recipes
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hen enjoying German and Hungarian cuisine on your travels, you may be surprised at the similarities in what is offered to you. In particular, Hungarian cuisine is extremely diverse with some familiar names on the menu such as Schnitzel, Stuffed Cabbage, Pasta, Strudel and Sauerkraut. The foods of Hungary are very much influenced by the Austro-Hungarian Empire, as well as other influences such as the Ottoman Empire. 54
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This small selection of recipes highlights the diversity of both countries, and you will see most of these delicious dishes whilst travelling through Germany, Hungary and Austria too. Common ingredients to both countries are pork, sausages (especially smoked sausages), potatoes, beer and of course paprika, which is a very popular spice that is used in most Hungarian cooking. Other common spices and herbs that are used are caraway seeds,
fennel and flat-leaf parsley. The food in this region is often seen as hearty and stodgy, but both Germany and Hungary offer the most ornate and delectable cakes and pastries for those who have a sweet tooth, with two of the most famous being the Hungarian Dobostorta and the German Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Gâteau). The following recipes highlight some of my favourite recipes in the region, and are all easy to prepare.
FOOD
EASY SWABIEN GERMAN POTATO SALAD SERVES 4 This easy-to-make German-style potato salad (called Schwäbischer Kartoffelsalat in German) comes from the Swabien region of Germany. It is the perfect accompaniment to any main course or as a side dish for picnics,
barbeques, lunch boxes or buffets. Some recipes suggest adding a little chicken or beef stock to the cooked potatoes which will give your salad a meatier flavour. Traditionally, the potatoes are peeled and then sliced, but as I used baby new potatoes in this version, I left the skin on.
INGREDIENTS:
• 600g potatoes, peeled or skin on if using baby potatoes • 50g finely diced cornichons • 6 finely chopped spring onions, or ½ white onion, peeled and diced • 1 tablespoon liquid Maggi seasoning • 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar • 1 tablespoon rapeseed oil • Freshly ground black pepper • Fat leaf parsley, to garnish • 2 tablespoons sour cream (optional) METHOD:
1. Peel the potatoes if needed and cut into small chunks. Boil for about 8 to 10 minutes until just tender. Then drain the potatoes and whilst they are still warm add the cornichons, onion, Maggi seasoning, white wine vinegar and rapeseed oil. Mix gently. 2. Season the mixture with the black pepper and add the sour cream if using. Mix again and spoon into a serving dish. 3. Serve with the parsley scattered over the top.
KÖRÖZÖTT (HUNGARIAN CHEESE SPREAD) SERVES 4 A delicious Hungarian cheese spread made with the local cheese Liptó (also known as Liptauer in Germany), this accompaniment can also be made with feta cheese, if you cannot source Liptó, and is just as tasty when thickly spread across crudités and crackers as it is when served with gherkins or crusty bread. Many Hungarians eat it for breakfast, and it can also be used as
a sandwich spread, which makes it perfect for a packed lunch or picnic. INGREDIENTS:
• 225g feta cheese, crumbled • 125g full fat cream cheese • 1 teaspoon smoked sweet paprika (save some to garnish) • Ground black pepper, to taste • 2 teaspoons caraway seeds (save some to garnish) • Small bunch of spring onions, trimmed and finely diced • Flat leaf parsley, to garnish
METHOD:
1. Place the feta cheese, cream cheese, paprika, pepper, caraway seeds and diced spring onions into a bowl and mix well to form a smooth spread. 2. Spoon the mix into a bowl and sprinkle the caraway seeds, paprika and parsley over the top to garnish. 3. Serve with crusty bread, crackers, gherkins or crudités. (If necessary, you can store the Hungarian cheese spread in the fridge for several hours ahead of serving.) SUM MER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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BÉCSI SZELET (HUNGARIAN WIENER SCHNITZEL) SERVES 4 Due to the strong Austro-Hungarian culinary influence in Hungary, as I mentioned before, this recipe for Bécsi Szelet translates as Viennese Slice, or as it’s more commonly known in Austria and Germany, Wiener Schnitzel. I have added an optional extra for those who want to serve this as Jägerschnitzel (Hunters Schnitzel) which is basically a Wiener Schnitzel with a German hunter’s style mushroom sauce. INGREDIENTS:
• 4 pork or veal escalopes. • Seasoned flour, for dredging • 1 large egg, beaten with a little milk • Bread crumbs • Vegetable oil, for frying • Butter, for frying • Lemon wedges, to serve • Flat leaf parsley, to serve METHOD:
1. Put the escalopes on a chopping board, cover them with greaseproof paper, and beat them out as thinly as you can with a meat tenderiser. 2. Dredge the beaten escalopes in the flour, then in the beaten eggs and then coat in the breadcrumbs. 3. Heat the oil and butter together in a large frying pan/skillet and 56
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fry the Schnitzels in a single layer, tuning them over half way through, until they are golden brown. It will take approximately 5 minutes for each side to cook. 4. Drain the Schnitzels well and serve them immediately with wedges of lemon and the parsley or the Jägerschnitzel sauce below. JÄGERSCHNITZEL SAUCE INGREDIENTS:
• 300g fresh mushrooms, peeled, trimmed and sliced
• 1 onion, peeled and finely diced • Butter, for frying • 150ml sour cream • Salt and pepper, to taste METHOD:
1. Fry the mushrooms and onion in the butter over a gentle heat for 6 to 8 minutes. 2. Add the sour cream and simmer gently for 2 to 3 minutes, season to taste and spoon the sauce over freshly fried Bécsi Szelet (Wiener Schnitzel).
FOOD
GERMAN PFANNKUCHEN (DUTCH BABY PANCAKE) SERVES 4
German baked pancakes are very popular in Europe, as well as in the States where many German settlers made their home. The Dutch moniker refers to the group of German-American immigrants known as the Pennsylvania Dutch, where ‘Dutch’ is a corruption of the German autonym ‘Deutsch’. Also called a German pancake, a Bismarck or a Dutch puff, this baked pancake is usually served for breakfast, but is delicious at any time of the day, and tastes even better when accompanied by your favourite jam. INGREDIENTS:
• 3 free-range eggs • 1 tablespoon sugar • 100ml full cream milk • 100g plain flour • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract • pinch of salt • 25g unsalted butter TO SERVE:
• 4 tablespoons jam of your choice • Icing sugar
METHOD:
1. Pre-heat oven to 200°C (400°F/ gas mark 6). Place a cast iron frying pan, skillet or heavy-based baking dish into the oven to pre-heat. I used a 25cm cast iron skillet, but a heavy-based pie dish or an oven-proof frying pan will do. 2. Whisk the eggs with the sugar until light and frothy. Then add the milk, flour, vanilla extract and salt, and whisk until you have a smooth batter. (At this stage, you can cover the batter and leave overnight.)
3. Open the oven and using a heavy duty oven glove, take the heated pan out of the oven and add the butter, swirling it around to coat the pan until it is all melted. Then pour the batter into the pan and place it back into the oven immediately. 4. Bake for 20 minutes until it is puffed up and golden. The edges will shrink away from the pan too. 5. Spoon the jam over the top with a dusting of icing sugar. Serve straight away cut into wedges with extra jam and sugar on the side. SUM MER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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Love gardening? Enter our two competitions to be in with a chance to win a Viking river cruise Viking’s Favourite Garden
The Nation’s Favourite Garden
How does your garden grow? It doesn’t have to grow especially big or grand to be a contender in Viking’s Favourite Garden competition. It just has to be a special place for you. And, if you tell us all about it, you could win our perennial favourite Romantic Danube river cruise for two.
From large country estates and picturesque cottage gardens, to urban hideaways and ancient woodlands, the National Garden Scheme opens 3,500 exceptional private gardens for charity – and now it is time to pick your favourite!
The competition is open to all Viking guests and will be judged by Paul Hervey-Brookes, designer of two gold medal-winning RHS gardens for Viking. Paul is looking for a good use of colour and space, a unique feature or focal point, and seasonal planting schemes. If your garden is also good for insects and wildlife, all the better. How to enter:
Simply send us some photos and a short description of what makes your garden special, along with your name and contact details. You can email us at uk-marketing@vikingrivercruises.com. Or send your entry by post to; Viking’s Favourite Garden competition, Viking Cruises, Nelsons House, 83 Wimbledon Park Side, London SW19 5LP. Closing date for entries is 30 June 2019 – happy gardening and good luck!
For full terms and conditions of Viking’s Favourite Garden, please visit https://www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/email/vikings-favourite-garden.html. For full terms and conditions of The Nation’s Favourite Garden please visit http://www.ngs.org.uk/the-nations-favourite-gardens-competition/
We have teamed up with The English Garden magazine and the National Garden Scheme, so that anyone who nominates or votes for a garden will be in with another chance of winning a Romantic Danube river cruise for two. How to enter:
Visit ngs.org.uk/the-nations-favourite-gardens-competition before 15 July 2019, and nominate your favourite National Garden Scheme garden. A panel of six judges will then choose a shortlist for each of the National Garden Scheme regions. Between 1 August and 30 September 2019 you can then vote for your favourite shortlisted garden. There will be one winner for each region and one overall.
COLUMN
ON LOCATION with Karine As Executive Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen is constantly on the move. Here she shares her love of art, and her favourite artists and museums
ARTISTIC APPRECIATION I enjoy artists from many different periods and genres. From my own Norwegian heritage, “the national romantic period” produced a plethora of art to encourage Norwegian patriotism. Farm girls in their traditional outfits (bunads) milking cows in a valley by the fjord, being perhaps the most iconic depicted theme. Hailing from a very different period and genre is the modern artist Jakob Weidemann, whose vivid use of colour exploding on large canvases always puts me in a sunny mood, however sombre and dark the outside world looks. Art, like music, is able to influence our moods more than we realise.
Clockwise, from above: Astronaut and Viking Orion Godmother, Dr Anna Fisher, on board beside a Jakob Weidemann painting; the Raphael Loggias in The Hermitage
ART DESTINATIONS St. Petersburg is one of the major cultural capitals of the world, and a great destination for art. The Hermitage, with over 3 million exhibits, is a place I have spent much time at while living in Russia, and I have a route I take friends on when we visit together. My favourite area is the Raphael Loggias. The Hermitage was of course a home – the Winter Palace to the Tsar and his family – and was decorated with exquisite furniture, much of which resides today in the offsite storage facilities, together with imperial carriages, and much of the remaining art collection which we are able to share with Viking guests.
• Watch a video about our Privileged Access tour The
Hermitage Behind Closed Doors, which includes a visit to the storage facilities, at vrc.co.uk/hermitage.
ONBOARD ARTWORK Our high-tech screens, which you’ll find at the top of the staircase in The Atrium, allow us to share some of the world’s best masterpieces in large format, giving our guests the opportunity to get close up to every little brush stroke made by the artist. Our enduring relationship with the Munch Museum in Oslo gives us access to their extensive collection of Munch artworks, which we have curated by theme and display every evening as part of our popular Munch Moments series. My favourites amongst our onboard collection are our sculptures in The Wintergarden by Norwegian artist Nicolaus Widerberg who uses stone, bronze and cast
glass. I also love the photographs by Alastair Miller displayed in the entrance to the Explorers’ Lounge. They were taken in the Norwegian mountains and are very meaningful to me – in one of the shots you can see my dog Finse and I crossing a river just below the Finse plateau.
IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES WITH VIKING The Viking Art Guide App allows guests to engage with the artwork and public spaces on Viking ocean ships during a self-guided audio experience. You can download the Viking Art Guide App from the App Store.
AN UNSOLVED MYSTERY My most treasured piece of art is a beautiful painting I purchased years ago in a tiny antique shop in Vienne while on a river cruise in France. At the Eurostar departure terminal in Paris, I was asked for a proof of purchase, which I did not have as I had been in a hurry to return to the ship before departure. When I told them the price of the painting, they said that would not even cover the frame! They explained there had been an increase in château art thefts, and suspected that my little gem of a painting might have a rather sinister provenance. They photographed it and took my details in case it should show up on a stolen art list. To this day I wonder if I’m in possession of a “mini-master”!
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VIKING
Book Club WHAT I LOVED
THE MUSE
THE BIRTH OF VENUS
By Siri Hustvedt
By Jessie Burton
By Sarah Dunant
Sceptre, £14.99
Picador, £8.99
Virago, £8.99
In 1975 art historian Leo Hertzberg stumbles upon an extraordinary painting in a downtown SoHo gallery in New York. Leo buys the painting and tracks down Bill Wechsler, the artist, and they embark on a life-long friendship which delves into their relationship with each other and with their families. The contemporary art scene is ever-present throughout the novel, as are themes of aesthetic meaning, love and loss. This story will stay with you long after you finish turning the pages.
A tale of two women, 30 years apart, this novel centres around a lost masterpiece with a secret history. In the 1960s, Odelle Bastien is working in a small gallery in London when the painting ignites her imagination and her interest. Through it, she is transported back to Olive’s story 30 years earlier. Olive Schloss, the daughter of an art dealer, is relocated to rural Spain where she meets a Spanish Republican whose presence proves to be explosive. An unforgettable novel about identity, authenticity and love.
Set in late 15th-century Florence, this novel is constructed as a memoir of Alessandra Cecchi, who as a 15-year-old girl met a dashing young painter who was commissioned to paint the family’s chapel. Risking everything, she begs him to teach her to paint, but he refuses. When an older man asks her to marry him and reassures her she would be allowed to paint she agrees. However, things soon start to unravel when she realises her husband is not all that he seems. Medici Florence provides a stunning backdrop for this captivating tale.
GIRL WITH A PEARL EARRING
By Tracy Chevalier
THE GOLDFINCH
Harper Collins, £8.99
By Donna Tartt
HOW TO BE BOTH
Inspired by the Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer and his famous painting ‘Girl with a Pearl Earring’, this story is set in 17th-century Holland and follows a modest 16-year-old called Griet who becomes a maid in Vermeer’s house. She is noticed by the painter and soon becomes his muse, but their closeness gives rise to jealousy both within the house and beyond. Beautifully written, the book explores what happens when sacrifices are made in the name of art.
Abacus, £9.99
By Ali Smith
At the age of 13, Theo Decker survives an explosion in the Metropolitan Museum of Art that kills his mother who had just shown him her favourite painting in the gallery. He is urged by a dying man to take the painting, ‘The Goldfinch’ by Carel Fabritius, and as time passes it draws him into the criminal underworld. Alienated and alone, he moves in increasingly dangerous circles in this haunting story of loss and obsession, survival and self-invention.
Penguin, £8.99
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This inventive book features a dual narrative, splitting the book into two parts which can be read in either order. Inspired by painting’s fresco technique, this approach binds two tales of love and injustice into a single thread, linking the stories of a renaissance artist of the 1460s, Francesco del Cossa, with a child of the 1960s, George. Playfully twisting life and death, truth and fiction, this novel is a modern-day masterpiece.
PHOTOS: © GETTY
If you’re on the lookout for a new read, your search is over! Here is our round-up of the best novels inspired by the themes of art and painting
BOOK CLUB
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READY or NOT? In our new short story, written for Viking by Adele Parks, Patricia takes a step into the unknown on a solo trip to the Mediterranean, in search of new beginnings
I
am so sorry!’ Lindsey did indeed sound sorry, Patricia knew what she had to say to her sister. ‘Gosh, don’t think about me. I’m the least of your worries. A broken foot. How awful. Is Mick looking after you?’ ‘Yes, he’s being very attentive.’ ‘That’s good.’ ‘But what about the cruise? Will you go on your own? It’s too late for someone to step in now. We were meant to be leaving at the crack of dawn tomorrow.’ ‘Don’t give it another thought,’ said Patricia, generously. It was a miracle the words made their way out of her mouth. The reality was, she’d thought of little else for months. She’d been so looking forward to the holiday, not only spending time with her sister who lived two hundred miles away from Patricia, but she desperately needed a change of scene, something different. Anything different. It was three years since Patricia had been on holiday. It was three years since she’d done a lot of things: gone to the theatre, poked around an antique market, had a conversation with someone before breakfast. Slept in the same room as another human being. Not that she slept well. She slept like a stone being skimmed across a pond. Sinking, then repeatedly rising to consciousness. Edgy, fitful. Everyone agreed when Martin died that fiftyeight was too young to be taken. They were shocked, stunned. She received a number of well written cards and thoughtful offers to ‘call anytime.’ She never did, because her friends had their own families and partners to concentrate on; she didn’t want to be a burden. Besides, none of her friends were likely to volunteer to do a sleepover, to ease the loneliness of long evenings alone in front of the TV, discussing the dresses on Strictly with her cat; people
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grew out of sleepovers after teen years. Truthfully, Martin had rarely had an opinion on the frocks, but listened to her views, chuckled at them; they’d share a bottle of wine. He was quite the connoisseur of food and she missed the care they both took in preparing meals for one another. He took care over everything he did. He even made a decent cup of coffee: rich, dark, treacly. Now, she mostly lived on microwave meals for one. What was the point of fussing with all that shopping, just for herself? Patricia didn’t want to go on the cruise alone. Everyone else would be part of a couple or a gang. She’d stick out like a sore thumb; it was easier to hide away here at home, less obvious. Less humiliating. But…Patricia sighed. The eight-day sojourn, in vibrant Spain, on the glamourous French Riviera, in beautiful Italy had stirred longing in her chest. Plus, there was nothing in her fridge. Not even sad microwave meals. She had been looking forward to someone else deciding what she might eat, doing the washing up! She’d heard the meals on board were amazing. Patricia stroked her packed suitcase. The manicure that she’d had done especially for the trip glinted, a cheerful coral colour that almost winked. Was she brave enough to go alone? Years ago, just after she’d graduated, she’d travelled to Italy to teach English. She’d just hopped on a bus, then a plane and another bus. Landed in the middle of Rome with nothing other than her phrase book and a sense of determination. She’d been immediately and fatally seduced by the city of noise, chaos, energy and spirit. She hadn’t known a soul! Not at first, but she’d made friends. Made a life. Only returning to England because her mother took ill. Then, while she was nursing her mother, she met Martin. That was the last time she’d travelled alone. Nearly forty years ago. She’d spent a year in Italy; surely, she could manage eight days.
PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES
C U LT U R E Patricia didn’t allow herself to overthink it. The next morning, she took the pre-booked cab to the airport, boarded the plane and flew to Barcelona. She avoided making eye-contact with anyone. She had no intention of mixing. What was the point in making new acquaintances? People who would be in and out of her life in a jiffy. The last thing she needed was to feel abandoned again. After her first night on board, she had planned to stay in her stateroom until the other guests had dispersed, then slip out unnoticed into the city, alone. But it turned out that Lindsey had signed them up for a walking tour along the broad, bustling boulevards of Barcelona which culminated in a dark, authentic bar that served tapas and Rioja, where they would be entertained by a flamenco performance. Patricia didn’t want to look rude by ducking out of the trip. What if someone wasted their time trying to track her down? She shuffled along, hoping to be invisible. She’d never seen a flamenco performance. She had a vague idea that it was a lot of stomping, clapping, clicking of castanets. Honestly, she didn’t imagine it involved a lot of skill. How wrong she was! From her seat in the corner, she watched the vibrant dance and savoured the tasty tapas. It certainly beat a bowl of crisps in front of Strictly. A few people turned to her and commented on the dresses. They were exquisitely colourful but she limited her remarks to simply approving the lacework. The next morning Patricia got up early and found her way onto the deck. From there, she soaked up the view of the glittering, azure blue Mediterranean. ‘Isn’t it something?’ The question came from a woman, about Patricia’s age, who was leaning on the railings, taking in deep, conscious breathes of fresh air. Patricia had not expected to meet anyone this early. She’d assumed people would be enjoying a lie in but there were plenty of people milling about, taking in the air, the sun, the view. Unfurling. She found her own back had straightened slightly. ‘It is indeed,’ she replied. ‘I was just thinking about the civilisations that have risen and fallen that have sailed this route. The Romans, Greeks. Time and Tide, waits for no man.’ Patricia wondered at the profound nature of the comment, ‘I was just thinking about what to have for breakfast,’ she admitted. The woman burst out laughing and put out her hand for Patricia to shake, ‘Liz.’ ‘Patricia.’ ‘My partner sleeps late, shall we breakfast together?’
“DESPITE LIZ'S WINK AND HEAVY EMPHASIS ON THE WORD FRIEND, PATRICIA DOUBTED SHE WAS JOSEPH'S CUP OF TEA.” Patricia found herself nodding. Why not? A conversation before breakfast, a companion throughout. It would make the warm pastries even more delicious. Liz and her partner Terry, who appeared at around 11am, turned out to be good conversationalists. Patricia was surprised to find that rather than being the third wheel, the couple welcomed her company; she offered a new opportunity for them to retell old stories. They did so, as they relaxed on deck, soaking up the sun. Then after lunch, Liz suggested Patricia take herself off for a soothing massage in the spa. Luckily, the spa room was dimly lit and the therapist didn’t notice the heavy tears slip down her face. They were not tears of grief or unhappiness, they were a release, a relief. Patricia was so infrequently deliberately touched. Her human contact was limited to an accidental shove in the supermarket queue. She’d almost forgotten what it was like to be touched, to be included. Patricia flopped into her bed that night, chuckling at one of the stories she’d been privy too. She was exhausted, she hadn’t been alone for a moment all day. She slept soundly. Liz and Terry had already made a lot of friends. A couple from Birmingham, a group of female friends from Scotland, a well-dressed gentleman (who Liz suggested might make a “nice friend” for Patricia). The chap was what Patricia’s mother would euphemistically refer to as a ‘confirmed bachelor’ so despite Liz’s wink and heavy emphasis on the word friend, Patricia doubted she was Joseph’s cup of tea, still she was glad of another singleton. They docked at Marseille, France’s oldest city, and Patricia and Joseph peeled off from the group. They were keen to explore the brocante, while the rest of the group wanted to sit in a tree-shaded square and try some of the local fine wines. Joseph knew a lot about antiques and Patricia surprised herself, discovering she’d picked up plenty of knowledge when she and Martin used to rummage around fairs. They played a game of trying to date different objects. Turn of the century mirrors, advertising signs that might date back to the 1950s. ‘And how old do you think I am?’ Patricia
asked, suddenly. She wasn’t sure how the question had exploded from her mouth and was horrified it had. She blushed, concerned that Joseph might be brutal with his guess, or worse that he’d think she was hunting for a compliment. He regarded her carefully, treating the question with respect. ‘Early fifties?’ He offered, almost a decade off the truth. ‘At first, I thought a little older, but over the last day or so, I’ve noticed there is a lightness and curiosity about you, you throw yourself into everything with gusto so I brought down my original estimate.’ Patricia starred at Joseph, he mistook her delighted surprise for shock. ‘Sorry, have I offended? Late forties?’ At that, she burst out laughing. People turned and smiled as her joy rang through the picturesque streets. Patricia felt the French sunshine on her skin and in her bones. She was lighter! A weight was slowly shifting. The weight of grief and isolation. Or was she thawing, melting? The next day they docked in Monaco, the playground for the affluent and illustrious. Patricia felt overwhelmed and nervous about this leg of the trip. Before she’d set off she’d gone on an online shopping spree to try to find an outfit that would allow her to blend in with the sophisticated atmosphere, but at the same time not break the bank. When Martin was alive, they used to enjoy excursions to the actual shops in the high street. He was a remarkably patient man and enjoyed standing outside the changing room, waiting for Patricia to emerge like a butterfly from a chrysalis. He liked to see her dressed in scarlet, amethyst and jade. If ever she couldn’t choose between two items, he’d insist, ‘Get them both, life is short.’ Which turned out to be pertinent wisdom in his case. Patricia preferred to shop online nowadays, she didn’t trust the sales assistants who would bombard her with compliments, just to make a sale. She ordered one dress at a time and then, more-often-than-not, returned it, dissatisfied. A number of summer dresses had arrived through the post; beige, sand and fawn. In the end she settled on a mushroom coloured shift for her day in Monaco. Seeing the Scottish ladies gather on deck, Patricia now doubted ‘colour’ was the right word to describe her dress. Was dress even the correct word? More like a potato sack. She murmured this confession to the group, whilst she showered
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them in well-deserved compliments about their bright and elegant sartorial choices. ‘Well, let’s go and get you something new!’ Gail, one of the group suggested. Whilst some of the cruisers visited the Palace and the Cathedral, Gail and Patricia explored the Medieval streets, poking around every fashion boutique. ‘It’s all far too expensive,’ whispered Patricia in horror, when she glanced at the price tags. ‘Just try it on. Have fun, think of it as a dressing up game.’ Patricia followed instructions and spent the morning stepping in and out of silky, sequinned dresses in bold, dazzling colours. Gail waited outside the changing room and was fast to compliment or dismiss when Patricia emerged. It was fun. When Patricia tried a cobalt blue, figure-hugging dress, Gail assured her, ‘It brings out the colour of your eyes.’ The women giggled like schoolgirls and Patricia handed over her credit card. They practically sashayed their way around Monaco for the rest of the day. The days floated by. Patricia immersed herself in the beauty of Tuscany, she found the tour of Pisa fascinating, the magazines she’d packed lay unread in her case. She had much to see and do. ‘Have you had fun?’ asked Liz, as they lay on deck on the seventh day. Liz had been Patricia’s first acquaintance and was now a go-to friend. ‘So much! Thank you for taking me under your wing and introducing me to so many people.’ ‘We’ve been lucky to have you in our group. Without you, who would have trailed around those dusty markets with Joesph? Who would have amused Gail in the shops whilst the rest of us wanted to visit the palace?’ Patricia hadn’t thought of it that way, she’d only thought of how lucky she was to have people to talk to, to be with. People to fill the gaps and hours. She hadn’t believed she had much to give. Inadvertantly, she let out a big sigh. It was complicated: part relief, part apprehension. ‘What?’ asked Liz. ‘I’ve so enjoyed this holiday but now it’s over and tomorrow, in Rome, we’ll all go our separate ways.’ ‘We’ll stay in touch, I promise. You can visit us, we’ll come to you too. This is just a beginning, not an end.’ Patricia smiled, gratefully. Her new friends had been wonderful fun and company. She realised that it might take a number of people to fill the gap Martin had left, but it was her responsibility to
C U LT U R E cultivate those relationships. As if reading her mind, Liz asked, ‘Was there only ever Martin?’ ‘Yes.’ Patricia replied, firmly. Then, as the sun soaked into her skin, she grabbed at a memory that was old and dusty; she blew the cobwebs off it. ‘Well, there was one other man, boy really, a long time ago. When I lived in Italy. Giulio.’ Saying his name threw Patricia into a different time and place. A time when she was carefree, hopeful in a city full of joy, laughter, rumour and chat: where the air that swilled around the ancient fountains and statues seemed to carry whispers, secrets, promises and kisses. ‘He worked for his father at a restaurant. He was so passionate, so all-consuming. At least for a time.’ ‘What happened to him?’ ‘I came home because my mother was ill. I met Martin and that was that. I don’t regret that at all. Martin and I had so many happy years. He was the love of my life.’ ‘So what was Giulio?’ ‘Oh, I suppose he was the one that got away,’ smiled Patricia. ‘I wonder how far he got?’ ‘What do you mean?’ ‘I wonder if he is still there, in the restaurant.’ ‘It’s been a long time.’ ‘A family business, though. Why would he have moved on?’ Patricia stared at her friend, wide eyed, as she comprehended what Liz was suggesting. ‘You think I should try to find him?’ ‘Why not? The thing is Patricia, yes you’ve found people to do lots of things with: explore new places, eat meals, drink wine, shop, talk but is that all you miss?’ Patricia blushed, she hoped Liz would assume she had had too much sun. Eventually she muttered stiffly, ‘I also miss drinking decent coffee.’ She wasn’t able to tell her friend that she missed being the centre of someone else’s world, she missed being noticed, needed. Wanted. Although, maybe Liz understood. ‘I bet they serve good coffee at Guilio’s,’ she said with a smile. The next day they awoke in Civitavecchia, Rome. Hurried goodbyes and swapping of telephone numbers kept Patricia busy but by eleven she had some time to herself before the later flight she had booked home. A city of positive contradictions where the ancient and modern bump up against one another, the old and the young get along, the frantic and the indolent coexist.
“SAYING HIS NAME THREW PATRICIA INTO A DIFFERENT TIME AND PLACE. A TIME WHEN SHE WAS CAREFREE, HOPEFUL IN A CITY FULL OF JOY AND LAUGHTER.” Everyone is always in a hurry, except that is, when they’re not. Patricia had expected to feel lonely having said goodbye to her new friends but she found she was curious, excited. She wandered through the streets and was only half-surprised to find herself at the gorgeous gleaming Trevi Fountain, a rococo extravaganza of rearing sea horses and conch-blowing Tritons. Tradition had it that if you throw a coin into the fountain, you will return to Rome. Patricia remembered Guilio insisting she do just that before she took a taxi to the airport, all those years ago. To the right of the fountain, there it was, the restaurant, just as she remembered it; wicker tables and chairs scattered onto the piazza. She sat down. A young waiter brought her a menu, she surprised him by ordering a coffee in Italian. It was foolish of her to think Guilio might still be here but she wanted to sit and watch the girls in high heels who giggled in gaggles, the achingly hip young men who scooted and tooted from their pastel coloured Vespas. It was time travel, of sorts. The coffee was placed in front of her. The aroma flooded through her heart and soul. She thought of Martin, and suddenly understood, Martin had made dark espressos to remind her of Italy. He’d known what she left behind, he’d admired and respected that independent young woman. He’d loved her and would be so proud of her for pulling her life back on track all these years later. ‘Ciao bella.’ The voice was instantly recognisable, even after all these years. Patricia looked up. His skin was different, craggier, his hair no longer blue black, but his eyes were the same, they shone. For her? ‘Guilio?’ She asked hesitantly, not sure he recognised her, or whether he greeted every woman that way. He smiled, nodded. ‘I knew you’d be back one day. The Trevi Fountain guaranteed it.’ Patricia did not know what Guilio’s story was, or what theirs might become, but she knew she was ready. Ready for anything. Adele Parks is author of I Invited Her In, available now in paperback (£6.99).
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CITY GUIDES Our destinations and shore excursions are at the centre of every Viking cruise. We’re always on the lookout for new experiences, and these travel guides are packed with local tips to inspire your next adventure
Page 68 ReykjavĂk A diverse art scene and independent shops help to give this city a buzz
Page 70 New York The constantly evolving cultural landscape of this iconic city means every visit is full of new discoveries
Page 72 Vienna
Elements of old and new complement each other in this historic city
Clockwise, from this image: Reykjavík with its dramatic mountain backdrop; the glass facade of the Harpa concert hall
Reykjavík Often the starting point for Icelandic adventures, the small city of Reykjavík is creating a buzz of its own with independent shops, innovative restaurants and a diverse art scene
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he most northerly capital city in the world, Reykjavík, is a small, cosmopolitan city with a creative soul. Although the first settlers here were fearsome Vikings in 874 AD, today independent inhabitants are more likely to win you over with their home-grown design and quirky craftwork. Wander around the city centre where colourful low-rise houses add to the charm, and views stretch out over white-crested waters to glaciers and snow-capped mountains: a hint of the bubbling nature beyond. At the harbour, old and new fuse; the modernist concert hall jostling with fish markets and newly sprung coffee bars. Nature is never far, and on these waters, you’ll see whales, puffins and greylag geese. For museum lovers, there’s culture aplenty. Delve into Viking history with waxworks at the Saga Museum or examine Viking artefacts, such as drinking horns and swords at the superb National
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Museum. Spot the many sculptures of Leif Erikson, the first Icelandic explorer to discover America, who is now immortalised in bronze and marble. The glorious, modern cathedral, whose spire is an iconic landmark throughout the city, nods to Iceland’s lava-ridged landscape in its jagged architecture. While you’re exploring, spend time in independent shops for curios or stop for fresh seafood washed down with a craft beer. In Reykjavík, the only capital city in Western Europe not to have a McDonalds or Starbucks, you’ll find a pleasing uniqueness at every corner.
Don’t miss
• Get up close to architectural
marvel Harpa, the iconic concert hall and conference centre made from thousands of glass bricks, and listen to a live performance. • Ride the elevator up to the top of Reykjavík’s iconic cathedral Hallgrímskirkja. Its stepped concrete facade is an ode to modernism and, 74.5 metres high, it gives an impressive city overview. • Learn about Iceland’s Viking past at the Settlement Exhibition and examine a 10th-century Viking longboat that was unearthed there. • Visit the Whale Museum to view life-sized models of these extraordinary mammals including minke, humpback and blue whale. • Reykjavík is a great place to buy one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces in silver and gold, often made in artisan workshops behind the shop.
Fast Facts In winter, Lake Tjörnin completely freezes over, and the tradition of ice skating takes place. Reykjavík is the only capital city in the world that is home to a major puffin breeding colony.
Eating & Drinking
Reykjavík has seen an uprising of Michelin-starred restaurants serving Icelandic produce. However, getting a taste of Reykjavík can be as simple as a street food gourmet hot dog or seafood from a fisherman's shack. A booming craft beer industry means microbreweries-cum-bars are thriving. DILL £££
Summer in Reykjavík is endless; at the summer solstice in June, the capital has 21 hours and 11 minutes of daylight.
Known on the international restaurant scene, Michelin-starred Dill has experimental cuisine, with an unusual twist on local ingredients, such as dried scallop, malt twig and fennel served like works of art. SÆGREIFINN £
For something more low-key and rustic try fisherman's shack Sægreifinn (also known as The Sea Baron), located in the harbour.
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Don’t be fooled by its unassuming looks. Fresh fish comes from sea to plate within minutes, and the creamy lobster soup is remarkable.
Insider Tips
SNAPS BISTRO £££
Buzzy bistro Snaps continues to attract locals and tourists for its inviting atmosphere and chic vibes. Fusing French cuisine with fresh Icelandic seafood adds a zing to classics such as moules and bouillabaisse. Brunch on Sunday draws a crowd so sit outside and soak it up.
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY
BRYGGJAN BRUGGHÚS ££
This cool independent bar and bistro is shaking up the way Icelanders socialise. Tapping into the burgeoning micro-brewery scene, visitors can tour the awardwinning brewery then join the beer academy to learn about food and beer pairings.
SWEET TREATS
NORDIC DESIGN
RETRO EATERY
Icelandic chocolate, Omnom, is found in all the best delis of Reykjavík; visit the harbour for a behindthe-scenes tour of the award-winning factory and to taste endless samples, including new flavours.
Reykjavík is a trove of quality craft products with a Nordic edge – head to homeware hit Hrím for Icelandic blankets and cushions, or Geysir for knitwear made from local textiles and yarns.
Do as the arty locals do and have a coffee and waffle in Mokka Kaffi, Reyjavík’s oldest café, where the interior has stayed the same since the 1960s. Works by local artists are on display, too.
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Clockwise, from this image: The New York skyline on a sunny afternoon; Central Park at sunset
New York New York is one of the most recognisable cities on the planet, yet its art, fashion, food and parks are forever evolving, ensuring each visit offers something new
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o iconic and crammed with all the culture, food and arts imaginable, New York City can feel a little overwhelming to the first, second and even third time visitor. Fast-paced, hard-nosed and obsessed with the latest trends, it can feel like an uncontrollable beast. Rather than rushing between a checklist of tastes, sights and sounds, it’s best to relish the madness and leave plenty of time for distraction. In a city like this, it’s the unexpected detours that are often the most memorable. If you’ve only got time for one gallery, make a beeline for MoMa (The Museum of Modern Art) which houses one of the world’s greatest collections of modern art. Look out for Picasso, Dalí, Warhol and Frida Kahlo but don’t be put off if you don’t manage to take it all in – starting at the top and working your way down is the best approach. Another winning art collection can be found in the city’s Brooklyn Museum, one of the
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US’s largest and oldest art museums. Don’t rush back from Brooklyn; if nothing else, soak up views of Manhattan from the 1.3-mile-long riverside promenade close to Brooklyn Heights. Central Park’s 800-odd acres of greenery are best explored when locals come out to play – at morning or dusk, just in time for brunch or dinner at some of the city’s classic establishments in the Upper Westside and Eastside. For a more urban take on nature, stroll along the High Line when the sun’s low in the sky. The tastefully restored railroad soars up from 34th Street down to the hipster Meatpacking District, dropping you off close to East Village’s Michelin-stars and boutique shops.
Don’t miss
• Chelsea Market’s tacos and sushi
stalls offer some of the best on-thego fuel in the city. • ‘New York at Its Core’ is a new permanent exhibition showcasing 400-years of the city’s history told by its most influential characters. • San Francisco’s popular Color Factory arrives in Manhattan this summer, featuring whimsical installations in a converted factory. • For a smaller-scale art experience head to the New Museum – a seven-story building in the Lower East Side home to a theatre, café, roof terrace and three galleries. • The low-key Staten Island Ferry is the best way to soak up New York and the Statue of Liberty by water
Fast Facts It is estimated that over 800 languages are spoken in New York City. New York has the world’s highest concentration of peregrine falcons. You can surf a metro ride away from the city at Rockaway or Long Beach. The Lowline will open in 2021 as the world’s first underground park.
Eating & Drinking
In the city that never sleeps, it’s worth remembering that there are 24 hours to play with, and that variety is the spice of life – market hall street food and Chinatown digs are as world-renowned as the Michelin stars. MANHATTA ££££
Sixty floors above Lower Manhattan this sophisticated new restaurant by Danny Meyer puts London’s skyrise dining experiences to shame. Simple seasonal food and pared back interiors let the epic views sing. A simple fixedprice three-course dinner includes, scotch snails, chicken and cabbage crépinette and an espresso cake. MINETTA TAVERN £££
This revamped steakhouse serves everything you’ve ever dreamed of from a New York, meat-heavy
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dining spot: soft red leather booths, a busy bar serving cocktails you’ve never heard of and some of the city’s most sought-after burgers.
Insider Tips
KATZ'S DELICATESSEN £
New York’s infamous Jewish deli of When Harry Met Sally fame is as loved by locals as it is by tourists. While the ordering process can be a little daunting (you need to get a ticket, place your order and pay at the end), the salt beef bagels are well worth it.
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY
NOM WAH TEA PARLOUR ££
This fast-casual eating house in Chinatown has been serving mooncakes, steamed buns and tea since 1920, proving just how integral Chinese immigrants have been to New York’s multi-cultural fabric. It’s now best known for Dim Sum served among antiques and art deco treasures.
BUILDING BRIDGES
HOME RUN
LITERARY DRINKS
If Brooklyn Bridge is too busy for your liking, head to Pulaski Bridge instead. Connecting Long Island City in Queens to Greenpoint in Brooklyn, it was named after a Polish military commander.
For a fun slice of American clichés book tickets to see the Yankees. Based in the Bronx, the baseball team plays at the Shea Stadium and is arguably the most successful sports club in the United States.
The Library at luxury hotel The NoMad is the perfect place to hole up with a potent cocktail in hand. As well as drinks, guests can enjoy light fare, finger foods and a fully-curated book collection.
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Clockwise, from this image: The Baroque Schönbrunn Palace; the ornate interior of the Vienna State Opera
Vienna Old and new fuse beautifully in Vienna, where classical music, Sigmund Freud and baroque sit alongside hipster coffee shops, cutting-edge cuisine and an artsy bohemian vibe
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n Vienna, you feel the weight of the Imperial City’s important history at every turn with impressive palaces, Baroque ballrooms and opulent opera houses which still uphold the grand traditions. When the Habsburg monarchy, who reigned in the 16th century, brought their wealth and influence to Vienna, the city was put on the map for its ornate Baroque style. Then came the musical and artistic pioneers; it’s no coincidence that four of the top classical musicians in the world – Beethoven, Mozart, Strauss and Haydn – lived in Vienna, as did Sigmund Freud, and artists Schiele and Klimt. Today the historic centre still draws crowds, and rightly so. The impressive Gothic St. Stephen’s Cathedral is seen as the symbol of Vienna with its tower stretching heavenwards for 136 metres. Don’t miss the eerie, dimly lit catacombs studded with skulls. Nearby the high-baroque Winter Palace borders Ringstrasse, the 19th-century
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boulevard that is home to many of Vienna's best-known sights, such as the Imperial Palace, the Vienna State Opera and Parliament. However, Vienna is so much more than its rich past. Today it’s a bold and vibrant capital city. You’ll find maverick artists experimenting with street art by the Danube River and museums packed with Old Masters and imperial art, as well as showing exhibitions by contemporary talent such as Rachel Whiteread. Hip new coffee shops sit happily beside Kaffeehaus, and new architecture breathes fresh air into the city including Zaha Hadid’s modernist library. To get the best out of Vienna take in both of its equally enthralling sides.
Don’t miss
•MuseumsQuartier at the Imperial Stables is Vienna’s largest art complex housing an astonishing ten museums. Look out for Art Nouveau heroes Klimt and Schiele. •Coffee and cake is a Viennese institution. Fuel up at traditional Vollpension café, with its choice of over 200 cakes, or try innovative das Möbel, where design pieces from its showroom are on display. •Follow the locals in summer and spend time on the Danube. There’s a hop-on-hop-off boat, bicycles to hire or simply stroll along the river. •Take a whirl on Vienna’s vintage Ferris wheel, the oldest in the world. Reserve a private cabin for a candlelight dinner to accompany the stunning Vienna skyline.
Fast Facts Pez, the sweetie dispensers beloved by children, were invented in Vienna in 1927. Every year from New Year’s Eve to Easter is Viennese Ball Season, and over 450 balls take place during this time. In 2018, Vienna was crowned the most liveable city in the world.
• Visit Vienna’s summer palace,
Schönbrunn, with its elaborate Rococo interior spread throughout 1,440 rooms. Linger in the wonderfully landscaped park to explore the maze and fountains.
Eating & Drinking
Vienna has come a long way from schnitzel and goulash. Today, be led by your taste buds; from Japanese fusion and American burgers to Michelin-starred cuisine and hipster brunches, Vienna is an epicurean delight. RESTAURANT KONSTANTIN FILIPPOU £££
Filippou’s mission is to bring ‘taste to everything’, although this simple vision doesn’t do justice to the exquisite flavours that fly out of the open kitchen. Expect extraordinary combinations including thistle, truffle and cuttlefish.
T R AV E L
FIGLMÜLLER ££
This restaurant serves up a variety of classic Austrian dishes, but the main reason to come is for its wiener schnitzel. Original Austrian pub-like decor and waiters in traditional smoking jackets add an antique charm to the experience.
Insider Tips
CAFÉ GOLDEGG £
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/AWL IMAGES
A Vienna stalwart since 1910, this café has a wonderfully traditional atmosphere with parquet flooring and cosy velvet booths. An excellent spot for brunch, it excels in strong coffee, grilled salmon with avocado and homemade pesto. SAID THE BUTCHER TO THE COW ££
Burgers paired with gin and tonics are the order of the day in Vienna’s first burger joint, although milkshakes, salads and prawn rolls are enjoyed by the hipster crowd.
GREAT MUSICIANS
MARKET FINDS
GARDEN OASIS
Enjoy classical music at traditional concert hall Musikverein, then retrace the footsteps of composers such as Beethoven, Strauss, Haydn and Mozart by visiting the houses they lived in around Vienna.
Spend an afternoon at Vienna’s multi-cultural food and flea market. Known as Naschmarkt, it spans over 1.5km; shoppers can stop at a traditional sausage stand for a Bratwurst and a beer.
The Botanical Garden of the University of Vienna is a peaceful place to wander among 12,000 species of plants. Established in 1754, it serves as an oasis of recreation in the heart of the city.
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C U LT U R E
Work of art
We take a closer look at the favourite painting of Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen
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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY
orwegian artist Edvard Munch has a special place in Viking’s heritage, and features in our onboard art collection. Historien, roughly translated as ‘History’ and painted in 1916, is Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen’s favourite piece of art. Sitting centrally in the picture, the old man comes across as authoritarian, yet is portrayed wearing worn work clothes – patched-up yellow trousers, an oversized blue coat and a simple red hat. His hands are gesticulating, as if mid-story, and the little boy next to him seems to hang on his every word. The boy’s clothes look new and reflect his youthfulness, which is heightened next to the ancient roots of the oak tree that towers above the pair. In the background lies a fjord with the open sea beyond. Whilst we know that Munch painted the picture in Kragerø, it is hard to tell the exact location. Adopted by Norwegians as a symbol of national pride, the painting celebrates the landscape and the heritage central to the country’s identity. The young boy symbolises a bright future ahead, and the development the country was facing in the 20th century. The old man’s red hat references the clothes worn by those who fought for Norway’s independence at the turn of the century, and the traditional fisherman’s clothing symbolises the importance of the fishing industry. The painting has been stolen twice, but recovered each time, and now resides in the Hall of Ceremonies at the University of Oslo.
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Extraordinary style Exceptional value Every Viking river and ocean cruise is a journey of discovery. Where your ship is the most beautiful boutique hotel, and the places you visit excite and delight in equal measure. Where you can share adventures and stories with newfound friends, and laugh and dance and taste the world in all its glory. And where everything you could wish for is included in the price.
2020 river cruises from ÂŁ1,195pp 2020 ocean cruises from ÂŁ1,790pp Call for our worldwide brochures: 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices and availability are correct at time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available on Danube Waltz river cruise and Iberian Explorer ocean cruise, departing on selected dates in 2020. Single supplements apply. Prices valid until 30 June 2019. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.