Explore More Summer 2020

more

EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Summer 2020 £3.95

MISSISSIPPI MAGIC Discover America’s heartland

BRIGHT LIGHTS

A Nordic adventure to experience the northern lights

GALÁPAGOS

• NEW EXPEDITIONS • TOP WILDLIFE TO SPOT

Explore the Galápagos Islands with Ecuador, Peru & Machu Picchu Embark on an extraordinary new journey to ancient worlds. From the Incan mysteries of Machu Picchu and the treasures of Peru and Ecuador, sail with a small group to the Galápagos Islands, one of the few places on Earth where human footprint is kept to a minimum. Here, in Charles Darwin’s living laboratory, come face to face with the unique wildlife that call these islands home, including giant tortoises, sea lions, iguanas, blue-footed boobies and penguins. Galápagos is one of the planet’s most isolated destinations. It is also one of its most awe-inspiring. Join us as we explore this truly remarkable destination, in a way that only Viking can.

13 and 15-day 2022 journeys from £7,990pp Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices & availability are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom on a Wild Galápagos, Machu Picchu & Peru ocean cruise departing on 27 November 2022. Single supplements 100%. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

WELCOME

Welcome to our summer edition of Explore More We very much hope you will enjoy reading our latest edition and hope, in these unprecedented times, it might provide you with some escapism.

To complement our expedition voyages to the Arctic and the Antarctic, we have announced that we will be venturing to the Galápagos Islands, where you will be able to learn about the unique flora and fauna of this fascinating region, as well as discovering Peruvian culture and the Inca treasures of Machu Picchu. And, from 2022, we will be expanding our river voyages into America’s heartland, along the iconic Mississippi River – featuring historical Civil War sites, rare wildlife, arts and music and a long chain of warm and welcoming towns and cities.

For those of you who are keen cooks, we have some delicious French recipes to try at home, as well as plenty of new books to inspire your future travels. One of our travellers recalls the thrill of seeing the northern lights, and we delve into the history of intricate jewellery designs dating back to the Viking Age. We wish you all a wonderful summer ahead, and very much look forward to welcoming you on board again soon.

With best wishes,

Managing Director, Viking UK P.S. We hope you’ve had a chance to look at Viking.TV – our exciting new online experience channel where you can view a range of content specially tailored to your interests.

8 Tweet us: @VikingCruises

Like us: facebook.com/VikingCruisesUK

Follow us: instagram.com/vikingcruises

Email us: uk-marketing@vikingcruises.com

Find out more about the Viking Explorer Society on our website

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Co n t e n t s more

EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Summer 2020 £3.95

MISSISSIPPI MAGIC

IN THIS ISSUE...

14 MISSISSIPPI MOMENTS History and culture unfold on this enriching river voyage across the United States

18 BIG 15 The wildlife to spot on a Galápagos expedition

Discover America’s heartland

25 DISCOVER THE GALÁPAGOS We delve into the highlights of a trip to experience the unique flora and fauna

BRIGHT LIGHTS

A Nordic adventure to experience the northern lights

52 SPIRIT OF THE NORTH Combine epic scenery with Sámi legends on this iconic Norwegian adventure

GALÁPAGOS

• NEW EXPEDITIONS • TOP WILDLIFE TO SPOT

58 A TASTE OF FRANCE Cook up a classic French feast OFC_EM20_FINAL2.indd 1

19/05/2020 16:15

Cover: Decorative balconies add even more colour to the historical buildings of New Orleans in the USA

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70 THE RHINE, RIVER OF LEGENDS A new series looking at the world’s great waterways starts with a European favourite 74 MY SYDNEY The beaches, lifestyle and cuisine that make this city one of the best-loved places on the planet

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FEATURES

REGULARS

08 MISSISSIPPI MAGIC An in-depth look at America’s great waterway to celebrate Viking’s new river voyages

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VIKING NEWS The latest news and events

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YOUR WORLD Letters and photos from our guests

26 CARIBBEAN COOL Travel writer Gabrielle Sander reports back from her first ocean adventure

36 BRIGHT LIGHTS Journalist Sarah Knapton is joined by her parents as she seeks out the northern lights

32 VIKING JEWELLERY Uncovering the artistry of the age 44 TRUE NORTH We speak to the project curator of the

British Museum’s new exhibition about Arctic culture and climate

46 TOUR DE FORCE Lisa Small goes in search of

enlightenment on Viking’s Grand European Tour

56 A CITY TO SAVOUR What makes Lyon a must-see city 62 THE NORWEGIAN SEA A deep dive into the ocean

16 CASUAL CHIC Mix neutrals and prints for a capsule wardrobe that transitions from one season to the next

30 CITY GUIDE: MIAMI The self-proclaimed cruise capital of the world wows with its art deco allure and Latin charm 42 CITY GUIDE: TROMSØ What to see and do in Norway’s wonderful northern lights hotspot

54 VIKING BOOK CLUB Reads to transport you overseas 66 CITY GUIDE: VIENNA Baroque beauty meets cuttingedge cool in Austria’s culture-packed capital

68 ON LOCATION WITH KARINE Executive Vice President Karine Hagen on new ways to stay connected and inspired SUM MER 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

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Viking NEWS A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking

NEW Stretching for 2,350 miles, from Minnesota's Lake Itasca to the Gulf of Mexico, our new cruises on the “Mighty Mississippi” offer a different type of cross-country journey for the curious explorer – one that allows you to be immersed in American history and culture.

Our three new 8-day itineraries allow you to travel a section of the river: Heart of the Delta travels from New Orleans up to Memphis; America’s Heartland explores the Upper Mississippi, and Southern Celebration is a roundtrip from New Orleans. Or, over 15-days, you can explore the length of the Mississippi, from New Orleans to St. Paul (or in reverse), on the America’s Great River journey, which includes 11 guided tours.

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Meanwhile, to complement our expedition cruises to the Arctic and Antarctica, our guests will now be able to join small groups sailing to the captivating Galápagos Islands. Featuring fully guided land excursions, you will explore Charles Darwin’s living laboratory, witnessing the archipelago’s unique wildlife, including giant tortoises, sea lions, iguanas and penguins.

The 15-day East Galápagos, Machu Picchu & Peru trip and the two new 13-day journeys – West Galápagos, Machu Picchu & Peru and Wild Galápagos, Machu Picchu & Peru – all explore Peruvian culture, Machu Picchu’s Inca treasures, as well as the volcanic coastline of the Galápagos region and its fascinating flora and fauna.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

FRONTIERS

NEWS

S TA R L E T T E R

VIKING.TV We are excited to announce that earlier this year, in March, we launched a dedicated new digital platform to allow you to continue exploring the world with us.

Daily live streaming is organised into Museum Mondays, Resident Historian Tuesdays, Arts & Music Wednesdays, Guest Speaker Thursdays, At Home at Highclere Fridays The and Wellness Kitchen Table Weekends. In addition to this, there are filmed messages from Viking Chairman

From kitchens around the world, join Karine Hagen on her journeys as she explores dishes that represent some of our world’s most interesting destinations. From our kitchen tables to yours, we invite you to broaden your culinary horizons and cultural insights, and learn how simple and fun it is to recreate foreign flavors at home.

The Kitchen Table A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD

Dear Viking, Thought you might like to see a copy of a lovely birthday card I received on my 81st birthday from a grand-daughter.

The “hiking” refers to a job I did for about 25 years, leading walking holidays abroad, world-wide, until I was 76!

Now hugely enjoying being looked after on all your splendid river cruises.

THANK YOU! Anne R. Duke

Front cover: “Traveling Tomatoes” photographed by Karine in the Umbrian Countryside

COOKERY AND TRAVEL €20

2nd Edition

Torstein Hagen, personal videos made by onboard crew and exclusive musical concerts sent in from our onboard classical musicians.

You can find recipes from around the world from our very own cookbook, The Kitchen Table, as well as a special area for children including quizzes and colouring activities.

The schedule for the week ahead is shared every Monday, and as a result of the fantastically positive reception, Viking.TV will continue to create exciting content for the foreseeable future.

A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD

Y O U R P H O T O S #MyVikingStory

YOUR MESSAGES

Follow us on Instagram @VikingCruises for more inspirational images I will never forget touching a wall of the Colosseum, closing my eyes and listening to history. If you haven't had an opportunity to experience this amazing place, do.

Debbie Robles Birdsong Already booked the Mississippi!

Doing the 15-day America's Great River. Only way to do it is with Viking. So looking forward to it.

Ann Robinson Martin The Riesling soup recipe in The Kitchen Table cookbook is one of the best soups I've ever made!

Kathleen Donahue Fowler We were fortunate enough to explore Highclere Castle as an extension of our Prague to Paris tour...Can't wait to get back to seeing the world, Viking-style.

Ellie Kopnicky Clockwise, from top left: 1. One of the most famous bridges not just in Venice, but in the world. GeofotoF 2. Simply the best, waffles at Mamsen's on Viking Star. djthomashome 3. Taken just before sunrise. My favourite day in the Falkland Islands. Carol Stafford

4. They call it an Oreo cow. Photo taken in the Falkland Islands. dianneinlv 5. Plotting our course through the Alaskan Inside Passage on Viking Orion in June 2019. sheiladavies_ 6. Budapest, Hungary. SashaEats

Viking is a class act!

Jim Seeman Viking.TV is wonderful. Debbie Wiseman's composition for Viking, ‘The Traveller’, is beautiful.

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This page: Viking Mississippi has been purpose built for this magical river

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T R AV E L

MISSISSIPPI As Viking announces its expansion into the American interior, we take a look at some of the highlights that line the iconic Mississippi waterway

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rom the headwaters in Minnesota to its delta in the Gulf of Mexico, the Mississippi River stretches for 2,350 miles and winds through America’s heartland.

The river was formed when the last ice age ended, about 10,000 years ago. Water from the melting ice sheet gathered in a vast network of north-to-south channels that carved out the Mississippi Valley.

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HISTORY

Native Americans have lived along the Mississippi’s banks for thousands of years. First to use the river for commerce, the earliest Native Americans established a network of trade routes; later, large population centres, including a metropolis across from presentday St. Louis called Cahokia, were formed. And it was the Algonquian-speaking people who named the river: Misi-ziibi, roughly translated as the “Great River” or “Father of waters”.

American history is bound with the Mississippi. When the Revolutionary War ended, the river became the new nation’s western border. That changed in 1803, when the Louisiana Purchase ceded control of the river – and the lands west of it – to the United States. New communities formed, supported by paddlewheel steamboats that facilitated commerce and transportation.

Control of this valuable resource was critical for both sides during the Civil War.

LOGISTICS

Controlling the waterways that make up the Mississippi has challenged government leaders and the Army Corps of Engineers for more than 100 years. A system of 29 locks and dams in the Upper Mississippi help facilitate barge traffic and regulate water levels.

And on the more heavily trafficked Lower Mississippi, the river is restrained by levees and dikes to help control seasonal flooding.

Today the Mississippi remains one of the world’s hardest-working waterways, generating more than $400 billion in annual revenue, supporting 1.3 million jobs and powering local economies. Low barges transport cotton, grain and other agricultural products from the heartland. And revitalised riverfronts along the Mississippi

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

Clockwise, from above: An aerial view of Memphis; great egrets on a misty morning; relax and soak up the views in the Explorers’ Lounge

T R AV E L

A NEW ERA OF EXPLORATION Torstein Hagen, Chairman of Viking No other waterway has played such an important role in the country’s history, commerce and culture, which makes it the perfect setting for a collection of exciting new Viking itineraries which will be launching in 2022.

Growing up in Norway, Torstein Hagen – the young boy who would one day become Viking Chairman – was inspired by Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn’s adventures along the Mississippi River. And as a result, the area continued to interest him later in life.

“When I was older and moved to America during my undergraduate studies, I became fascinated with the Upper Mississippi and the Midwest, a region so many Norwegian immigrants chose as their new home,” says Mr. Hagen. So it is fitting that Viking guests will now be able to explore the region.

“These itineraries will offer a different kind of cross-country journey for the curious explorer – one that allows you to be immersed in American history and culture,” adds Mr. Hagen.

From 2022, guests will be able to explore the Lower Mississippi by joining the 8-day Heart of the Delta trip, from New Orleans to Memphis, or the 8-day Southern Celebration roundtrip from New Orleans. The Upper Mississippi will be served by the America’s Heartland itinerary, an 8-day journey from St. Louis to St. Paul.

And for travellers keen to explore the length of the waterway in its entirety, the epic 15-day America’s Great River covers the Mississippi from Minnesota to Louisiana.

In addition to this, a new ship, Viking Mississippi, inspired by the award-winning Viking Longships and ocean vessels, will be built in the United States. Purpose-built for the Mississippi, it will feature sleek Scandinavian design, spacious staterooms, al fresco dining areas and extensive viewing areas, and will cater for 386 guests as they explore this endlessly-intriguing waterway.

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provide new opportunities for tourism and commercial activities.

This mighty river, with its unique history, heritage and culture, offers the ideal backdrop for a modern era of American exploration and discovery. Viking’s state-of-the-art new vessel, Viking Mississippi, has been designed specifically for this waterway and is the perfect home-from-home.

BIODIVERSITY

As one of the world’s major river systems in size, biological activity and habitat diversity, it is called the “Mighty Mississippi” for good reason. Bisecting America’s heartland, it serves as a natural border for 10 states and is home to 360 species of fish, 326 species of birds, 145 species of amphibians and 50 species of mammals.

With an abundance of migratory and year-round wildlife, ornithologists will love the range of birds to spot. The upper portion of the river is home to beavers and pelicans and the delta area features many endangered species such as the Louisiana black bear, the green sea turtle and piping plover, a small sand-coloured coastal bird. And secluded swamps are the perfect place to spot alligators.

CULTURAL LEGACY

The river’s cultural legacy has inspired artists and writers such as Maya Angelou, Tennessee Williams and Mark Twain, whose depictions of the Mississippi are a constant companion to his iconic hero, Huckleberry Finn.

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In his memoir about life as a steamboat pilot on the Mississippi River before the American Civil War, Twain observed, ‘it is not a commonplace river, but on the contrary is in all ways remarkable’.

The concept of the river as a symbol of freedom and liberty has continued and is a theme running through many novels and historical non-fiction books today.

Unique culinary traditions are also bountiful, from barbecue in St. Louis and Memphis, to Cajun and Creole in New Orleans. There are food options to delight every palate, and the welcoming fare is at the core of Mississippi culture and heritage. The community nature of the cuisine is evident in the number of heirloom recipes and family-run restaurants.

And the river’s impact on American music styles – including Delta blues, jazz, gospel, country, folk and rock and roll – can be felt deep in the soul of the music which continues to evolve and delight.

From 2022, Viking will operate a range of 8-day Mississippi river journeys, starting from £4,290pp.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY

Clockwise, from far left: A wide stretch of the Mississippi River in Louisiana; colourful trolleys are a fun way to get around in New Orleans

T R AV E L

MISSISSIPPI CITIES Discover these picturesque destinations that have flourished and evolved on the banks of the mighty river

BATON ROUGE Capital of Louisiana, Baton Rouge paints a historic picture on the Mississippi’s eastern bank. Its remarkable cultural diversity is displayed in Cajun and Creole music, cuisine and arts.

BURLINGTON Burlington grew into an economic powerhouse with the arrival of steamboats and the railroad.

Today, it is home to numerous historic buildings including the art deco Capitol Theatre.

DARROW The Lower Mississippi region is dotted with historic mansions, and Darrow is your gateway to these National Historic Landmarks renowned for their noted architecture and landscaping.

DUBUQUE Dubuque is often called the “Masterpiece on the Mississippi” for its 19th-century ingenuity and modern-day cultural evolution.

HANNIBAL Hannibal is the birthplace and childhood home of Samuel Langhorne Clemens, or Mark Twain, and the inspiration for his beloved stories of Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn.

LA CROSSE La Crosse enjoys a deep connection to the towering bluffs and rolling

farmland of its Norskedalen, where a Norwegian immigrant population carved out a unique culture over generations.

MEMPHIS Memphis is the celebrated birthplace of Memphis blues, a centre of civil rights history and home to Elvis Presley’s Graceland.

NATCHEZ Natchez is home to one of the highest concentrations of historic Southern estates in the world; more than 200 perfectly preserved homes line its broad avenues.

NEW ORLEANS Birthplace of American jazz, historic New Orleans exudes a festive atmosphere, especially in the French Quarter. The city’s French, African and other influences flavour its vibrant culture and Creole cuisine.

ST. FRANCISVILLE Originally built on a narrow ridge overlooking the Mississippi, today St. Francisville boasts more than 140 buildings on the National Register of Historic Places.

ST. LOUIS Crossroads for 19th-century explorers, St. Louis is home to rich architectural treasures including the iconic Gateway Arch.

Clockwise, from top left: Neon lights in the French Quarter of New Orleans; Jambalaya is a culinary highlight; the iconic Gateway Arch stands out in the St. Louis skyline

ST. PAUL A base for westward settlers heading to the Dakotas, St. Paul is now a modern metropolis and the capital of Minnesota.

VICKSBURG Vicksburg National Military Park commemorates the historic site of the Civil War’s most pivotal battle.

The small town is the epitome of Southern heritage and charm.

QUAD CITIES Straddling the confluence of the Mississippi and Rock Rivers, the Quad Cities area rests amid “America’s Breadbasket” – the nation’s most expansive and scenic agricultural region.

RED WING Red Wing, known for its American-made shoes and pottery, has a history of farming skills and craftsmanship brought by its New England, German, Irish and Scandinavian immigrants.

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ITINERARY

MISSISSIPPI

moments

History and culture unfold as you cross the USA from north to south on this enriching river voyage

Above: The downtown skyline of Minneapolis

DAY 1 / ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA

DAY 9 / LOWER MISSISSIPPI

Arrive in St. Paul and transfer to your ship before exploring the city and its acclaimed arts scene.

Cruising the serpentine route of the Lower Mississippi, witness an astonishing array of picturesque scenery.

DAY 2 / RED WING, MINNESOTA

DAY 10 / MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE

Enjoy the scenic landscape of the Mississippi as you sail to Red Wing, the city named after a celebrated Sioux chief whose red-dyed swan wing indicated his rank.

The ‘Queen City of the South’ is the birthplace of Memphis blues. Discover the music, cuisine and buzz of Beale Street and a tour of Elvis Presley’s Graceland.

DAY 3 / LA CROSSE, WISCONSIN

DAY 11 / LOWER MISSISSIPPI

Explore La Crosse with its architectural landmarks and statue-lined riverfront or opt for a trip to rural Decorah.

Enjoy another full day of scenic cruising; it’s the chance to participate in a cooking demo or attend a lecture.

DAY 4 / DUBUQUE, IOWA

DAY 12 / VICKSBURG, MISSISSIPPI

Dubbed the ‘Masterpiece on the Mississippi’, this city immediately conjures up the great Steamboat Era.

Feel the Southern tradition that flows through Vicksburg’s veins as you uncover its rich Civil War history and Southern heritage and charm.

DAY 5 / QUAD CITIES, IOWA Straddling the Mississippi and Rock Rivers, the Quad Cities area sits amid ‘America’s Breadbasket’.

DAY 6 / BURLINGTON, IOWA A Burlington tour reveals the city’s historic downtown and Snake Alley – ‘the crookedest street in the world’.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

DAY 7 / HANNIBAL, MISSOURI

Natchez boasts an array of historic Southern mansions and is the perfect place to enjoy small-town America.

DAY 14 / BATON ROUGE, LOUISIANA Arrive in Baton Rouge, set on the eastern bank of the Mississippi River, and take a panoramic city tour.

This community is best known as the birthplace of author Mark Twain and the setting of his Adventures of Tom Sawyer and Adventures of Huckleberry Finn books.

DAY 15 / NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA

DAY 8 / ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI

A 15-day 2023 America’s Great River journey, from St. Paul to New Orleans, or in reverse, starts from £9,590pp.

Immerse yourself in the ‘Gateway to the West’ with its diverse array of architectural treasures.

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DAY 13 / NATCHEZ, MISSISSIPPI

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After breakfast, you’ll be escorted to the airport for your return flight.

2022 RIVER CRUISES

E 22 AR LE 0 2 S SA E N AT O D W O N

Portugal’s River of Gold

10 days, 8 guided tours Departing March to November 2022

From £2,195pp

Lyon & Provence

8 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2022

From £1,595pp Rhine Getaway

8 days, 6 guided tours Departing March to December 2022

From £1,495pp

Grand European Tour

15 days, 12 guided tours Departing April to November 2022

From £3,095pp

Romantic Danube

8 days, 5 guided tours Departing April to December 2022

From £1,595pp

Passage to Eastern Europe

2022 Viking river cruises now on sale.

Eight days from £1,495pp

11 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2022

From £2,045pp

Châteaux, Rivers & Wine

8 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2022

From £1,595pp With the world’s largest fleet of innovative river ships – including our multi-awardwinning Viking Longships – only Viking can promise you more. More comfort, more quality, more style and more choice of cruises across Europe, Russia and Asia. Relax in spacious, contemporary surroundings. Indulge in fabulous, destination-inspired food and thoughtfully selected wines. Explore the cultures and customs of the places you visit on expertly led tours. And discover a unique and exciting new view of the world.

Elegant Elbe

10 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2022

From £2,095pp

Paris & the Heart of Normandy 8 days, 6 guided tours Departing May to December 2022

From £1,945pp GREAT VIKING VALUE – SO MUCH INCLUDED P Return scheduled flights from London and a choice of up to 14 regional airports at no extra cost

P An included excursion in almost every port

Kiev, Black Sea & Bucharest

12 days, 9 guided tours Departing May to October 2022

From £2,995pp

P River-view stateroom

P Free tea, coffee and snacks any time on board

Waterways of the Tsars

P All meals on board including wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner

P All port charges, government taxes and overseas transfers

From £3,095pp

P Free Wi-Fi on board (connection speed may vary)

P Onboard gratuities

13 days, 10 guided tours Departing May to October 2022

Pharoahs & Pyramids

12 days, 11 guided tours Departing January to December 2022

From £4,665pp

Call now on 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available, departing on selected dates in 2022. Single supplements apply. Please note on selected cruises a visa may be required and is at the passengers own expense. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

Floppy hat Accessorize, £22.50

Patterned kaftan tunic Accessorize, £40 Tote bag Accessorize, £29

Drop earrings Oliver Bonas, £29.50

For women...

Build a capsule wardrobe with a combination of neutrals and prints

Shirt dress Monsoon, £60

Casual

Chic

Saddle bag Marks & Spencer, £69

Invest in simple pieces that transition from one season to the next

Chinos and t-shirt (from a selection at FatFace)

Knitted top Oliver Bonas, £49.50

Summer jacket White Stuff, £65

Comfy trainers Marks & Spencer, £35

Casual trousers Monsoon, £45

Hoop earrings Oliver Bonas, £24

FA S H I O N

and for men...

Nautical blues work well both at home and on holiday Knitted polo shirt Marks & Spencer, £35

Denim shirt dress (from a selection at Bonprix)

Messenger bag Burton, £40

Printed shirt FatFace, £45

Linen shorts Marks & Spencer, £29 Shirt dress Marks & Spencer, £59

Embellished straw bag Accessorize, £40

Panama hat Marks & Spencer, £49

Braided belt Dune, £22

Denim culottes White Stuff, £55 Deck shoes Dune, £85 Relaxed blouse Hobbs, £110

Woven flats Dune, £85

Shirt & holdall (from a selection at Barbour)

BIG 15

GALร PAGOS WILDLIFE Our pick of the Big 15 creatures to spot whilst on a voyage with Viking around the Galรกpagos Islands

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WILDLIFE

GALÁPAGOS GIANT TORTOISE The Galápagos Giant Tortoise is a famous resident of the archipelago, with the name ‘Galápagos’ actually derived from the old Spanish word for tortoise. Arriving from South America around 2-3 million years ago, they morphed out into 15 different species. The conservation status of the giant tortoise is endangered, particularly after the death of Lonesome George in 2012, the last Pinta tortoise, and now 10 live on the island.

The tortoise can be divided into two main shell types, (domed and saddle-backed), and both spend a laidback life of around 16 hours a day resting, and eating grass, fruit and cactus pads.

BLUE-FOOTED BOOBY

THE GALÁPAGOS ALBATROSS

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

The Galápagos albatross is the largest bird in Galápagos with a spectacular wingspan of up to two and a half metres. Known for a brilliant yellow and almost comedic bill that appears too large for their bodies, beady eyes and a white breast, they are also nicknamed ‘the waved albatross’ due to the wave-like pattern on their wings. Living high above the open waters of the surrounding ocean, the birds are fabulous gliders, but migrate around Colombia, Peru and Galápagos during the non-breeding and chick-rearing periods. Look out for their fascinating courtship dance.

Named for their distinctive blue webbed feet and coming from the Spanish word, ‘bobo’, meaning foolish, the blue footed booby is a much-loved marine bird native to subtropical regions of the eastern Pacific Ocean. During mating rituals, the male birds shows off their feet to potential mates with a high-step strut.

The bluer the feet, the more attractive the mate! The booby also begins by presenting the female with a small stone. It is clear why the loveable bird fascinated Darwin during his 1835 Galápagos trip, with their loveable clumsiness on land and their agile swooping in the air.

Research suggests that they have suffered large declines in recent years, with an estimated population of just 6,400 birds in 2012. It is thought that this decline is related to a decline in clupeid fish, especially sardines, which the boobies need in large quantities.

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RED-FOOTED BOOBY

Distinguished by its bluey-purple rainbow-like beak and bright red feet, the red-footed booby is the smallest of the boobies. This seabird doesn’t migrate like its siblings, and lives year-round in tropical regions, but has an impressive ability to fly, travelling up to 90 miles in search of food. They hunt together, and have evolved to be able to snare flying fish from the air, or cleverly wrap their long wings around their bodies, enabling them to plunge into the water to hunt in search of fish.

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FLIGHTLESS CORMORANT

This fascinating species of seabird is one to look out for and is of particular interest to visitors to the Galápagos Islands because of its curious inability to fly. This means the species stays in the region year-round, occasionally diving to the ocean floor to hunt for food. According to scientific research, the bird has genetic anomalies which are also common among humans with rarer skeletal problems, meaning a gene mutation has left their short wings totally redundant, apart from helping them balance when hopping between rocks on the shoreline. Look out for flightless cormorant’s circular courtship dance.

Noted for its long, humorous whiskers and slicked-back silvery fur, the Galápagos seal spends an idle life resting in the shade on the coastline, saving its reserves for hunting at night. Not to be mistaken for a Galápagos sea lion, they are far smaller with protruding eyes that make them excellent hunters – they are still able to keep a watchful eye out for sharks while seeking out their prey. They also avoid diving for food when a full moon is out, as they are more visible to sharks and their prey tends to move into deeper waters during this period of the lunar cycle.

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

GALÁPAGOS FUR SEAL

WILDLIFE

LAND IGUANA Lizards are often spotted on Galรกpagos, but this large lizard in particular thrives on the arid and dry areas of the islands. This type of lizard is characterised by the yellow white hue of its skin, with patches of black and brown.

They have powerful legs and claws and look slightly intimidating as they scuttle along the shoreline, but they are mostly herbivore, enjoying prickly pear and fruit over other food. The population has undergone a drastic decline over recent years, but finches help them along the way, picking ticks from between their scales. Females travel far and wide to find the ideal nesting place to bury their eggs.

NAZCA BOOBY

Another member of the booby family, the Nazca booby differs in appearance from its famous blue-footed sibling, with long yellow or orange beaks and a slightly larger size. You can spot the Nazca booby high above the ocean, where they hover from heights of up to 30 metres before spectacularly plunge-diving into the waters off the coast to catch their prey. Their diets are mostly made up of small fish, but they also have an appetite for flying fish, squid and anchovies.

AMERICAN FLAMINGO

Standing out from the crowd, the American Flamingo is well known for its fluorescent pink feathers and long neck. Galรกpagos is home to a few hundred of this particular species, breeding in the archipelago and across the Caribbean, although the Galรกpagos version is significantly smaller than its Caribbean cousins, with smaller eggs. The bird is loved for its dramatic pink plumage and has inky black-tipped wings only visible in light. The colouring is down to their diet, and all flamingos have evolved an impressive way of feeding, shuffling their feet to disturb the ground before picking up their food with heads upside down in the water.

In Galรกpagos, American flamingos can be found in lagoons close to beaches, but are difficult to spot. Look out for them from March to July when they nest and when they begin foraging.

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GALÁPAGOS PENGUIN

This particular type of penguin is the most northerly found penguin and one of the smallest in the world. Located only on the Galápagos Islands, they are best spotted living right up on the northern tip of Isabela Island and make their homes by burrowing in the caves and crevices in the coastal lava. They are particularly agile underwater and have an impressive swimming capacity, reaching speeds of 35 km per hour when hunting for cold-water schooling fish to eat. Galápagos penguins are a loyal breed and mate for life, with the female laying between one and two eggs which hatch into dark brown chicks.

MARINE IGUANA

This curious creature is the only lizard in the world to be able to live and forage for prey at sea thanks to their powerful claws that grip onto rocks. Endemic to the region, there are six variations of this particular species that can be found dotted across different Galápagos Islands, some larger than others and some with different mating rituals, where they turn different colours, from reds and bright greens to red and black. In the mornings they can be found enjoying the sunshine and absorbing the sun’s rays to give them energy for their long swims.

The mating season spans from January to March.

GALÁPAGOS HAWK

An excellent predator and hunter, the Galápagos hawk is closely related to the red-backed and white-tailed hawks. One of the world’s rarest raptors, they have a vulnerable conservation status but are an impressive spot if you manage to catch one, with an adult having a wingspan of 120cm. Adults can be recognised by their dark feathers, chicks by their pale plumage, and the females are larger than their male counterparts. Famed as scavengers across the island, they feed off carcasses using their strong beaks for pecking.

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WILDLIFE

SANTA FE LAND IGUANA Endemic to Sante Fe Island in Galápagos, this is a rarer subspecies of the land iguana. Unlike the other land iguanas roaming the rest of the Galápagos, this particular iguana is a paler yellow with a longer snout. Its more obscure colouring allows the Santa Fe land iguana to blend in with its surroundings, making it a hard target for predators, and for tourists, to spot.

As a cold-blooded creature, it absorbs heat from the sunshine and at night carves burrows to capture the heat.

A critically endangered animal, your best chance to see them in the wild is from the island of Espanola between April to June when eggs are laid.

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GREAT AND MAGNIFICENT FRIGATE BIRD

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

GALÁPAGOS SEA LION

A common sight on the Galápagos Islands, the Galápagos sea lion is widespread along the coast. Often found lazing on the shoreline, swimming just off the coast, and, thanks to their pelvic girdle, they can be spotted exhibiting their charismatic gallop at a surprisingly fast speed. They primarily breed in Galápagos and so it is from here that you can witness their sexual dimorphism first-hand. Males weigh a dramatic fourtimes that of females and use this size advantage to maintain territorial dominance, mating with various females by keeping hold of land. The mating season happens between July and December.

Dubbed ‘the condor of the oceans’

by Charles Darwin because of their impressive ability to spend days at a time out at sea, and with their dramatic wingspan, this seabird certainly lives up to its name.

It’s the shape of this curious bird that gives them exceptional aerial manoeuvrability and allows them to glide. They are also nick-named ‘pirate birds’ because of their habit of stealing food from other birds including the beloved boobies and forcing them to regurgitate their food by shaking their tail feathers vigorously. The bird’s main aesthetic attribute is its large red throat pouch which inflates during breeding season with the hope of attracting a mate.

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Explore the Great Lakes and Canada, on expedition ships designed for discovery The Great Lakes are an undiscovered treasure, boasting stunning national parks, in a region that is rich in culture and history.

Here, you can experience a deep connection to nature in a genuinely remote wilderness.

Watch for wildlife, from bald eagles to moose, grey wolves, bears and beavers. Reach across cultures with the First Nations’ people. Hike through pristine forests, and glide silently by kayak across Georgian Bay – a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Discover Canada’s colonial past and beautiful lakeshores. Visit the majestic Niagara Falls, all accompanied by expert guides.

Viking offers a choice of inspiring new journeys around the Great Lakes, as well as voyages to the Arctic and Antarctica.

To enable you to best explore the Great Lakes, we have assembled a world-class expedition team to lead you on engaging shore landings and esteemed scientific partnerships to deliver enriching programmes.

The expedition ship perfected, Viking Polaris and Viking Octantis are home to just 378 guests and guild on our legacy of exploration with many industry firsts. Availability is limited and we are new taking bookings for our 2022 itineraries. Join us on the ultimate adventure aboard an expedition ship that offers the ultimate in comfort.

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk

ITINERARY

Andean adventure Uncover the mysteries of South America’s most captivating destinations on this immersive cruise-and-stay adventure

Above: Tick Machu Picchu off your bucket list on a Viking voyage

DAY 1 & 2 / LIMA, PERU Arrive in Lima and settle into your hotel. The following day, discover the capital’s colonial centre, the Baroque Lima Cathedral and the Palace of the Archbishop.

DAY 3 & 4 / SACRED VALLEY, PERU Fly into the Sacred Valley and immerse yourself in local life. On day four hike to the ruins at Ollantaytambo, see Moray’s crop circle and admire the salt pans at Maras.

DAY 5 / MACHU PICCHU, PERU An exciting rail journey through the Andean hills awaits today. Alight in Aguas Calientes and continue on to Machu Picchu, the iconic lost city of the Incas.

DAY 6 / MACHU PICCHU & CUZCO, PERU Explore more of Machu Picchu on a hike or take a tour of a nearby tea plantation. In the afternoon, transfer via train to Cuzco, the historic capital of the Inca.

DAY 7 / CUZCO, PERU

Visit the Cerro Colorado Tortoise Breeding Center, then cruise to Punta Pitt to see blue-footed boobies.

DAY 11 / SANTA FE ISLAND & SOUTH PLAZA ISLAND, GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS Seek out the primeval-looking Santa Fe land iguana before cruising to South Plaza Island in the afternoon.

DAY 12 / SANTA CRUZ ISLAND, GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS A fascinating trip to the Charles Darwin Research Station is followed by lunch at a local farm.

DAY 13 / ESPAÑOLA ISLAND, GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS Keep an eye out today for Española mockingbirds, lava lizards, Darwin’s three finches and marine iguanas.

Visit wonderful sites like Cuzco Cathedral, the Temple of Koricancha and the fortress of Sacsayhuamán.

DAY 14 / EDEN ISLET & NORTH SEYMOUR ISLAND, GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS

DAY 8 / GUAYAQUIL, ECUADOR

Kayak or snorkel around the marine-rich coast of Eden Islet. More wildlife awaits on North Seymour Island.

Catch a flight to Guayaquil, the gateway to the Galápagos Islands and a vibrant riverside city.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

DAY 10 / SAN CRISTÓBAL ISLAND, GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS

DAY 9 / BALTRA & MOSQUERA ISLET, GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS Embark the 90-guest ship Santa Cruz II and cruise to Mosquera Islet for a chance to spot sea lions.

DAY 15 / BALTRA, GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS & QUITO, ECUADOR Disembark in Baltra before flying home from Quito.

The 15-day 2021 & 2022 East Galápagos, Machu Picchu & Peru voyage starts from £8,790pp.

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This page, from left to right: Key West in Florida; Cuban influences are everywhere in the Florida Keys archipelago

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cool

Caribbean

Travel writer and river cruising fan Gabrielle Sander reports back from her first ocean adventure

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

I

t is a year since I took my first cruise; an eight-day trip along the Rhine, from Basel to Amsterdam, on board Viking Eir. It’s one I’ve waxed lyrical about to many since, as well as in this very magazine. Aside from introducing me to a generous and picturesque portion of Western Europe, it opened my eyes to a way of travelling I’d previously filed under ‘things to do when I retire’.

I fell in love with the ease of sailing from one port to the next; a new town, city or country each day.

Such a romantic, easy way to travel.

Country-hopping without having to hire a car, board planes, or lug a suitcase onto different trains.

It helped that my vessel was sleek and smooth-sailing (sometimes I’d look out the window just to see if we were actually moving); quiet, with only 190 passengers, and low-

level, so we could cruise close to land and dock moments from the sightseeing action. It also helped that everything was on point, from the initial welcome to the smooth operation of the excursions, and sweet touches such as the plump strawberries left in our stateroom one morning. Just like that, my love of cruising was sparked.

So, when it came to joining my first Viking ocean cruise – Turquoise Caribbean Seas, starting and finishing in Miami – I was excited, but also unsure whether I’d enjoy it as much: how would the cosy nature of the ship work on a larger scale, and would the personable nature of the river cruise translate to an ocean cruise?

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Clockwise from above: Lamanai Mayan Ruins in Belize; dine al fresco as the sun sets; the impressive Fort Jefferson in Florida; afternoon tea served in the Wintergarden

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Scandinavian décor – it was all comfortingly familiar, but bigger and beautifully finished. Rather than taking a couple of days to unwind into my temporary home, as is often the case when I travel, I relaxed immediately. It is of course a much larger vessel than the Viking Longship on which I traversed the Rhine, and at full 930-guest capacity, is home to considerably more people.

However, with plenty of indoor and outdoor nooks to lounge in, it never felt busy, except the queue for the ice-cream at lunchtime, which is a given. It is very good ice-cream!

The Explorers’ Lounge featured drawers of curiosities to pull open and peruse and the Atrium, with hundreds of books lining the shelves, offered up the novel I’ve

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been meaning to read for ages, travel tales and foodie tomes to thumb through. Like the river cruise, the library is curated to suit the audience and destinations.

I sampled the various places to eat and drink, all free from the set time slots and group tables that are experienced on other ocean cruises.

That I could rock up at Italian restaurant Manfredi’s at 7.30pm, book in hand, and enjoy a plate of their freshly-rolled gnocchi al gorgonzola at a table for one if I so pleased, was bliss. That there was also ample opportunity to chat to fellow guests, say, in the buzzy Wintergarden during afternoon tea, was equally lovely. As solitary or sociable as you want it.

I continued my ship recce, checking out the LivNordic Spa,

which looked straight out of the pages of a wellness magazine, and includes a Snow Grotto that dumps fresh powder daily to melt onto your limbs before and after the sauna (a great circulation-booster). There was also a sea-facing, floor-to-ceiling windowed gym, an outdoor infinity pool and hot tub at the back of the ship, without the rowdy pool bar, that would usually put me off. The cinema, where the smell of popcorn wafts beckoningly around movie start time, offers the latest blockbusters.

Getting acquainted with the ship on that inaugural walk around, my first thought was, ‘wow, this place is amazing – like a floating 5-star hotel’; my second: ‘how am I going to find time to enjoy it all?’

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FIVE TIPS FOR VIKING OCEAN CRUISERS Download the Viking Voyager app. Not only is it an easy way to keep track of activities and excursions, but you can use your headphones to follow the Viking Art Guide, a self-guided tour of the artwork on board.

PHOTOS: © VIKING; ISTOCK

An apple a day keeps the doctor away, as the adage goes. Green apples are also packed with vitamins, antioxidants and fibre. You’ll find bowls of them at Guest Services.

It’s almost as if the Viking gods heard this and summoned an extra sea day. That first afternoon, not long after boarding in Miami, the captain announced that our planned port stop, Key West, scheduled for the next morning, had been cancelled. The seas were too rough for us to dock safely, so we were heading straight to planned port two, Belize, with two days at sea in between.

The conch train tour of Key West and visit to Ernest Hemingway’s former home, with its polydactyl cats, would have to wait. It was an unfortunate yet understandable blip, but it did mean more time to enjoy the sleek Scandi playground, the sunshine on deck, coffee and cake at Mamsen’s, or the superb display

of original art, including a large collection of Edvard Munch.

I enjoyed a Nordic Hair Ritual, a blissful 80 minutes involving exquisitely-scented Swedish products featuring cloudberries and blueberries.

Those sea days passed in a blissfully laid-back bubble starting with sunrise laps along the promenade and ending with sundowners and early dinners.

Then, with a burst of colour came our arrival into Belize. The itinerary was back on track, with Cozumel, Merida and the Gulf of Mexico, providing the views and entertainment over the final days.

As for the missed stop, we were thrilled when our captain made a surprise call into Key West on the loop back to Miami.

Hidden behind bright orange doors at Manfredi’s is a private dining room. Anyone can book and have dinner in there, at no additional charge. Perfect for special occassions.

The enrichment talks with visiting historians and other experts are usually in the afternoon. But you can catch-up later, at a time that suits you, via your stateroom TV. Don’t miss our sushi and seafood bar in the World Café.

You can pick from a variety of freshly prepared sushi and crab. Plus, an Asian wok station adds to the international flavours on offer.

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Miami

Self-proclaimed cruise capital of the world, travellers flock to Miami to soak up the sunshine, art deco architecture and Latin American influenced culture

S

ince the 1950s, when wealthy Cubans escaped Fidel Castro’s revolution, Miami has been a beacon for Hispanic people, earning its nickname the ‘Capital of Latin America’. A tour of Little Havana is a must and will help you find the highlights, such as the Cubaocho Museum & Performing Arts Center – a gallery and bar dedicated to the history of Cuba.

Next up head to the Wynwood neighbourhood to see the incredible street art on the famous Wynwood Walls. In the evening visit the Bayside Marketplace for views of the city’s iconic skyline and port.

At Miami Beach, cycle along the renowned Ocean Drive taking in art deco hotels and apartments, or join a walking tour of the art deco district around South Beach.

Relax on the beautiful white sands or amble along the Miami Beach Boardwalk to appreciate the ocean view away from the buzz of traffic.

Historic, Spanish-inspired Espanola Way, a pedestrianised street

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thronging with the Miami vibe, is a lively place to visit in the evening.

Don’t miss

• Built in 1916, Vizcaya Museum

and Gardens is a mansion built in the Italian Renaissance style.

Wander in the formal gardens and fountains, and enjoy the original artwork and furnishings inside.

• Stroll out to the tip of South Pointe Park Pier for fabulous views of Downtown Miami’s skyline and the gleaming South Beach. Go in the late afternoon and linger for the sunset before heading to Collins Avenue for drinks and to experience that famous Miami nightlife.

• Miami has the third tallest skyline in the US, so why not jump on board the free Metromover monorail for a tour through the impressive skyscrapers of Downtown. South of here is the pretty and popular Bayfront Park.

• The Art Basel fair hosts a huge range of modern and contemporary art across the city every September, but works from the likes of Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Cindy Sherman, Jeff Koons and Damien Hirst at the impressive Rubell Family Collection can be enjoyed year round.

• Lincoln Road is a must-visit for travellers into shopping and culture. Architect Morris Lapidus redesigned the street in the 1960s giving it a unique style. Now a pedestrian hub, it bustles with people enjoying the sculptures, fountains, theatres and art galleries.

Clockwise, from above: Miami’s South Beach has over 800 art deco buildings; one of the city’s iconic lifeguard huts

Fast Facts

•Miami was an obscure swampland

before visionary Julia Tuttle inherited land in the southern Florida backwater and took up residence here in 1891. Through her contacts she was responsible for the arrival of the railroad.

•Miami gets its name from the Mayaimi tribe who lived here in the 16th and 17th centuries.

•Miami has the second largest number of Spanish speakers in the US, and 70% of inhabitants are of Hispanic origin.

•Locals enjoy cafecito (Cuban coffee) served from walk-up ventanitas windows. Try one yourself for a strong, sweet hit.

•Man-made Neptune Memorial Reef, near Biscayne Bay, is an artistic replica of the Lost City of Atlantis. You can even go diving.

•Look out for one of the many annual street festivals and parades.

T R AV E L

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

Insider Tips

INNOVATIVE ART

EASY AS PIE

SHIP AHOY

TIME TRAVEL

Head north to the often overlooked Museum of Art and Design housed in the Freedom Tower, a 1925 masterpiece built in the Mediterranean revival style and arguably a work of art itself.

No trip to Florida is complete without trying some Key Lime Pie. For a slice of the best, head to Joe’s Stone Crab which, trading in the city since 1913, is now something of a Miami institution.

From Miami Beach to South Miami, there are plenty of local area marinas to visit. Each one has its own identity, and many offer waterside restaurants, perfect for watching the world go by.

Miami’s splendid Ancient Spanish Monastery recalls the city’s past as a Spanish territory. It was built in Spain in the 12th century, disassembled and brought to Miami by newspaper mogul William Randolph Hearst.

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

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C U LT U R E

VIKING JEWELLERY An intricate cultural history In celebration of our Norwegian heritage, we take a closer look at the traditional skills and artistry shown in these intricate designs

Clockwise, from left: The earliest jewellery style is named after the famous Oseberg ship; an ornamental silver brooch, used here to fasten a cloak

T

he Vikings were much As the Viking Age progressed, features sinuous animal forms more than legendary the style of the designs changed. and a gripping beast motif – a seafaring explorers.

Historians generally classify Viking hallmark design element that A closer look at their artefacts into six styles named appears well into the next century. jewellery reveals a high level of after the area where a pivotal The style’s name references the artistic skill and a fascinating decorative object was unearthed. famous Oseberg ship, found in a design vocabulary large burial mound that evolved over in Norway, which is The majority of the artefacts are made of the duration of the currently on display metal and stone, although rarer items made at the Viking Ship Viking Era, which historians agree is of bone and wood have been preserved Museum in Oslo. roughly the period From the late from 789-1066 AD. 9th century and The high volume of fine silver Throughout the time period, design continuing to the middle of the jewellery recovered from burial styles sometimes co-existed side 10th century, a new set of designs hordes across Europe suggests that by side or were even combined in known as Borre style emerges. We silver coinage obtained through a single piece and some artefacts continue to see the gripping beast, trade was melted down and used demonstrate a melding of Viking but the once-sinuous feel of the as adornments. Worn by men and designs with those of other cultures. Oseberg creatures has shifted to women, these indicated social status The earliest recognisable triangular-headed animals with and wealth, and may also have style, dating to the 9th century, round eyes and protruding ears. functioned as amulets. is known as Oseberg style and Named for a set of bridle mounts SUM MER 2020 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

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Clockwise, from above: Bunads (national folk costumes) are adorned with traditional Viking jewellery; motifs and forms used for figureheads also appear in Viking jewellery

PHOTOS: Š ISTOCK

recovered from a ship burial site in Borre, Norway, this style appears to be purely Norse, and shows up in finds from countries including Iceland, Russia and England.

Jelling style, from the 10th century, is named after the two massive carved runestones found in Jelling, Denmark. The carvings on these huge rocks feature stylistic S-shaped, intertwined animal forms with profiled heads and spiral hips as well as pigtails.

The decorated stones were commissioned by two kings as memorials – King Gorm the Old honoured his wife, Thyra, and his son, Harald Bluetooth, raised the larger stone in memory of his parents, his conquest of Denmark and Norway, and his conversion of the Danes to Christianity. The patterns were much copied, and appeared on decorative items throughout this period.

Developing out of the Jelling style, the Mammen style was prominent in the last half of the 10th century, and features naturalistic lions, birds, snakes and foliate elements. The style is named after an axe head found in a burial site in Mammen, in Denmark.

The first half of the 11th century is represented by Ringerike style – an era in which standing stones were often carved featuring curvy, thin animals such as lion-like beasts with almond-shaped eyes and thin, long tendrils on plant motifs and leafy, floral patterns.

Finally, from 1050 to the 12th century, Urnes style becomes regarded as the ultimate expression of Viking art. Named after the carvings that adorn the northern gate of the Urnes stave church in Norway, this style boasts sinous, interlaced and interwoven animals with long eyes, serpent-like creatures, and plants.

The majority of artefacts related to these chronological phases of Scandinavian jewellery art are made of metal or stone, although some rarer items fashioned from bone, wood, ivory and even textiles, have also been preserved. Ongoing archaeological finds continue to add to our understanding of this fascinating evolution of style and craftsmanship.

C U LT U R E

The evolution of

VIKING STYLE These beautiful examples of jewellery dating to the Viking Age demonstrate the progression of techniques and design

SKANE HAMMER PENDANT 10th century, Skane, Sweden

DRAGON HEAD PIN

circa 900 AD, Birka, Sweden

This clean-lined, elegant pendant is an anthropomorphic Thor’s hammer. The powerful god of thunder, Thor was one of the primary characters in Norse mythology and his hammer form appears frequently throughout the Viking Age.

Dragon head pins have been found throughout the historic Viking world, and are similar to iconic carved Viking ship figureheads. A soapstone casting mold for a similar pin was found in Sweden, suggesting that they could be reproduced.

VÅRBY BROOCH

BORRE TREFOIL

This disc-shaped pin from one of Sweden’s most magnificent hoards is loaded with ornamentation, complete with faces and entwined knots. These brooches appear to be an eastern Scandinavian phenomenon, used to fasten women’s cloaks.

Borre-style jewellery features interlacing knots or animals, like this version’s “gripping beast”design. The style was named after a group of harness mounts recovered from a ship grave near Borre, Norway.

10th century, Vårby Hoard, Sweden

BRISINGAMEN NECKLACE 11-12th century, Gotland, Sweden

Viking artisans played the smoothness of rock crystal spheres off against the knubby texture of tiny granulated dots to beautiful effect in this necklace. It shows the continued use of granulation – tiny little dots created by heating metal until it clings to itself forming a ball – which is a consistent technique in Viking jewellery.

9-10th century

ROSCREA BROOCH

late 9th century, Tipperary, Ireland

This pin demonstrates the melding of Irish and Viking influences. The use of quality silver (rare in Ireland, but accessible through trade to the Vikings) and amber from the Baltic are distinctly Viking, yet the gold filigree work, abstract patterns and Book of Kells-like animals are basic to the Irish visual vocabulary.

HATTEBERG BROOCH

9th century, Hatteberg, Norway

The penannular form is a very old style of brooch worn by both men and women.

This example demonstrates Celtic influence, but the pin is Nordic in origin, suggesting that Viking Age artisans were familiar with styles across the North Sea.

LUNETTE PENDANT

10-11th century, Gnezdovo, Russia

This crescent pendant with elaborate granulation work, a woman’s adornment, is from one of the major Varangian centres in Kievan Rus territory along the trade route from Scandinavia to the Byzantium.

URNES STYLE BROOCH

circa 1100 AD, Tröllaskógur, Iceland

This brooch epitomises late Urnes Style in its sinuous, interwoven loops. Depicting a group of stylised, entwined serpentlike creatures with elongated eyes, it demonstrates the sophisticated styling of the late Viking Age through its interplay of writhing forms counterpointed against the negative space.

This page: The northern lights glow spectacularly over the Lofoten Islands in Norway

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Bright

lights

Journalist Sarah Knapton is joined by her parents on an adventure to the Arctic Circle in a bid to witness the northern lights

M

y fasther (John, 69) and I have been talking about a trip to the Arctic for the past decade, but my mother (Carole, 70) has dodgy knees so we did not think such a physically demanding expedition would be possible.

However, when I learned that Viking was cruising up the coast of Norway looking for the northern lights it seemed an ideal solution, giving us all the chance to be as adventurous or relaxed as we felt like.

Our 13-day journey would begin in Bergen, then cross the Arctic circle to Narvik before venturing further up to the world’s most northerly city, Alta. The return would see us pass through Tromsø, Bodø and Stavanger, before sailing home to Tilbury in London.

On the first day, I spent a peaceful evening sipping bellinis in the beautiful Explorers’ Lounge, while my parents arrived on board later that evening to

Yet even without the northern lights the scenery is spectacular. We left Bergen on a sunny afternoon after spending a relaxing morning listening to a piano recital at the home of Edvard Grieg, and our first chance to explore the sleepy snow-dusted Arctic wilderness came at Narvik, the little shipping port which saw the first victory against the Nazis in the Second World War. My dad and I chose to visit the nearby 110-acre Polar Park, home to lynx, wolverine, brown bears, musk ox, elk and, most excitingly, wolves. Wolves that can be petted.

So on a bitterly cold January morning, we found ourselves kneeling in their enclosure, gloveless and hatless (wolves will pilfer anything that isn’t firmly attached to your body) awaiting the pack.

Sadly the wolves seemed uninterested in hanging out with a semi-circle of shivering humans, but luckily the keeper had a trick up her sleeve.

Opposite: Sarah Knapton’s holiday photos capture the essence of Norway in winter, from dramatic mountain scenery and fjords to majestic reindeers and multi-coloured wooden houses

be greeted by welcoming glasses of champagne and reviving soup and cold-cuts in Mamsen’s, the ship’s cosy deli, named after the mother of Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen.

In fact, the whole ship is designed with comfort in mind. The Scandinavian-inspired lounges, with their reindeer pelt-covered chairs, are perfect for hunkering down during the star-studded Arctic nights when temperatures plummet and a cold wind blows outside.

All around are bookshelves stocked with exciting tales of Shackleton, Amundsen and Nansen.

The Nordic theme continues in the excellent restaurants and even the Spa, where a steam room, sauna and Snow Grotto allow for the full Scandinavian bathing ritual of fire and ice.

But it is the chance to see the elusive northern lights which is the big draw to this trip.

Witnessing the phenomenon is by no means guaranteed. Conditions have to be just right, with the sun ejecting enough plasma towards a cloudless, moonless night on Earth for the lights to firstly form, and then be visible from below.

The whole crew is permanently on aurora-watch, with even the bridge officers poised to announce sightings via the ship’s tannoy.

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Cupping her hands, she howled an eerie call into the wilderness. Within seconds the wolves had answered, baying in reply and hurrying over to let us warm our frozen fingers in their fur.

The next port of call was Alta, which at nearly 70 degrees north is the world’s most northerly city.

It is known as “The City of Northern Lights”, a good sign, if any, that the aurora may show itself.

This time my mother joined us as we took a nighttime excursion into the mountains, where the sky was pitch black, offering the best chance of a glimpse of the spectacle away from the lights of town.

But although we had an enjoyable evening, lounging round birch wood fires, and sipping hot chocolate under a blanket of stars, the aurora remained absent.

The following day we visited the Sámi, the indigenous people who still herd reindeers in the mountains and who believe the northern lights emanate from the souls of the dead. They traditionally refused to go outside when the aurora was in the sky.

After bouncing along on a reindeer sleigh ride on a frozen river we were served a warming bowl of bidos, or reindeer stew, inside the Sámi communal tents, called lavvu, where we were entertained with

PHOTOS: © ALAMY/ISTOCK/SARAH KNAPTON

After bouncing along on a reindeer sleigh ride on a frozen river we were served a warming bowl of reindeer stew

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PHOTOS: © ALAMY

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fascinating tales of life in the frozen north.

Although the aurora again remained hidden, as we sailed further south towards Tromsø our hopes began to lift when the forecast showed a spike in the solar winds indicating that the light-generating plasma was on its way to Earth. We were playing Scrabble in the Atrium when the announcement everyone had been

universities had been on hand in the previous days with photography tips and it had paid dividends.

The lights were so bright that evening they were seen as far south as Aberdeen, in Scotland. And they returned the night after for a briefer yet similarly impressive performance.

The next day we sailed to Stavanger. There is plenty

Clockwise from above: Endless fjords stretching to the horizon; dog sledding across the snow-blanketed landscapes of Norway

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

Glowing streaks of green darted and swept across the sky, then vanished in an instant to be replaced by swirling ribbons of blue and purple hoping for came from the bridge. “The northern lights have been sighted on the starboard bow.”

My dad and I headed out onto the deck.

The wait was worth it. Glowing streaks of green darted and swept across the sky, then vanished in an instant to be replaced by swirling ribbons of blue and purple. Arcs framed the mountains and great smoky waves of light drifted from the peaks like an eruption of emerald lava.

Not wanting my mother to miss it, I raced back down to the lounge where she was sitting and insisted she join us outside on the deck. Her face on seeing the spectacle was worth it. The lights appeared directly above the ship for around an hour then moved off south and were gone entirely.

We found my dad in a corridor comparing pictures with other delighted guests. Experts from the Royal Astronomical Society and some of Britain’s best

to do on board, from yoga classes, to massages and beauty treatments, games, concerts, wine tasting, films and talks, to name but a few.

By the time we reached Stavanger it felt like a gentle re-entry into real life. The ship docked right in the centre of town, and we spent an enjoyable morning pootling around the chic shops and coffee bars, before setting sail across the North Sea and back home to the UK. As we disembarked at Tilbury – unexpectedly simple compared to most cruises – we all agreed we could have stayed longer, and had made some fabulous memories. Captain Bengt Gustafson insisted on saying goodbye to each and every passenger as we left.

A 13-day 2021 In Search of the Northern Lights cruise, from Bergen to London, starts at £3,990pp.

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Tromsø

Resting 217 miles north of the Arctic Circle, Tromsø is blessed with mild winters thanks to the Gulf Stream, making it an ideal destination to see the northern lights

I

nhabited for 10,000 years, Tromsø has a fascinating history. Sitting centrally to all the Nordic countries (as well as Russia), it became a major Arctic trade centre and the starting point for many an Arctic expedition. You can learn more of the hardships those early explorers endured at the fascinating Polarmuseet (Polar Museum).

Surrounded by snow-capped peaks and subject to the midnight sun in the summer, this picturesque city is compact enough to explore by foot, but it is also well-served by local buses. Start across the famous bridge on Tromsdalen with a cable car trip to the 421-metre-tall Fjellheisen platform for stunning views across the city, and fjords, mountains and islands beyond.

As you head back towards Tromsø stop at the iceberg-inspired Arctic Cathedral, built by Norwegian architect Jan Inge Hovig in 1965.

Wander along the attractive harbour where the city’s oldest wooden buildings make a pretty

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photo backdrop, before moving on to Skansen, a customs station built in 1789 and Tromsø’s oldest house. The remains of a medieval settlement can be found here, too.

Then there is Tromsø Domkirk, a wooden church and the world’s most northerly cathedral.

Don’t miss

•Tromsø boasts the world’s

northernmost university, as well as a rich cultural calendar of music and festivals. Visit the Universitetsmuseet (University Museum) to learn more about the region’s history, art and wildlife.

•The region is not only home to a Norse population but also to the Sámi people with their own unique culture. A Sámi Reindeer experience allows you to learn more about the people who herd and live with reindeer year-round, as well as a chance to meet and feed the animals.

•The city is proud of its pubs, and until recently claimed the most northern commercial brewery: the Mack Brewery. If you stop for a pint at their Ølhallen (‘The Hall’), Tromsø’s oldest pub, you’ll have more than 70 beers to choose from.

•Everyone wants to see the aurora borealis and they are occasionally visible from Tromsø itself, but taking an excursion to avoid the light pollution is the best option.

If that’s not possible visit the Northern Norwegian Science Centre for a fantastic northern lights planetarium show.

Clockwise, from above: Gorgeous views of snowcapped mountains surround the city; the northern lights are often visible from the city

Fast Facts

•Tromsø is pronounced trom-seh, not troms-O.

•It takes its name from the island on which it is located: Tromsøya.

•Tromsø hosts more pubs per

capita than any other town in Norway.

•Between the months of May and July the sun never dips below the horizon, while it is not visible at all from November to January.

•The city is not only home to the world’s northernmost university, but also the northernmost botanical garden, brewery and planetarium.

•Despite its location so far north, the city enjoys a moderate oceanic climate with relatively mild winters, making it the perfect location for outdoor activities.

•There is evidence that human settlement in Tromsø dates back 10,000 years, whilst the local Sámi culture is at least 2,000 years old.

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; SHUTTERSTOCK

Insider Tips

SPIRITUAL SPACE

ON THE LOOKOUT

KNOCK ON WOOD

SKY HIGH

Tromsø is famed for its distinctive modern Arctic Cathedral, also known as Tromsdalen Church. Built in 1965 by the architect Jan Inge Hovig, it seats 600 people and is made from concrete and metal.

Keep an eye out for the Tromsø coat of arms which is a reindeer presented against an azure blue background, sometimes topped by a crown. The stylised drawing, devised in 1870, was created

by Hallvard Trætteberg.

Tromsø's town centre has the largest number of old wooden houses in northern Norway, dating from 1789 to 1904. Common decorative features include Hound’s tooth patterns in the window frames.

Built in 1961 by a local shipping company, the Tromsø's Cable Car runs from Solliveien, in Tromsdalen, up to Storsteinen, a mountain ledge 421m above sea-level.

The trip takes four minutes.

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TRUE NORTH

Dr Jan Peter Laurens Loovers, Project Curator of the Citi exhibition Arctic: culture and climate at the British Museum, shares his highlights of the upcoming show

Above: Kiliii Yuyan (b. 1979), Umiaq and north wind during spring whaling. Inkjet print, 2019. © Kiliii Yuyan.

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What do you hope to achieve with this ambitious exhibition?

The exhibition explores the lives of around 400,000 Indigenous Arctic Peoples who have made hospitable homelands out of ecosystems of ice for over 30,000 years.

These communities have been on the frontline of global climate change and have noticed how their homelands and its weather patterns are changing drastically. Weather affects every aspect of their lives – food, travel, clothing, and even

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love. Climate change is making generations of knowledge obsolete.

Thus the exhibition shows what is at stake when the homelands of Arctic Indigenous Peoples are free from ice in 80 years, as predicted.

Ice is fundamental to their lives, serving as building material for roads and temporary shelters, enabling freedom to travel widely and providing access to bountiful worlds. Permafrost – frozen soil, which acts as bedrock in the Arctic – is thawing fast. Without it, roads are sinking, structures are collapsing and solid ground is giving way. If the Arctic is ice free within 80 years, what will happen to these ways of life centred on the cold?

Can you tell us a bit more about the range of objects and artworks on show?

The exhibition covers over 30,000 years of life in the Arctic with 282 objects from across the region with lenders from Alaska, Denmark, the Russian Federation,

and Switzerland. Objects include clothing, transport, cooking utensils, sewing tools, ceremonial items and contemporary art. We will, of course, show quintessential Arctic objects such as snow spectacles, harpoons, parkas, masks, dog and reindeer sleds, and a kayaq, as well as 157 objects that have never been shown before.

We’ve also commissioned new objects – such as a mammoth-ivory model by Sakha master carver Fedor Markov and a Kentish-stone inukshuk by Inuit leader and artist Piita Irniq – and created a number of videos that offer snapshots of Arctic Indigenous Peoples’ seasonal lives. These include films of Nenet reindeer herding in the Yamal Peninsula as well as Inuit seamstresses in Mittimatalik making boots from sealskins. It will also host photographs by Brian Adams who is an Inupiat from Alaska and an edited film by Kiliii Yüyan who is a American-ChineseNanai film-maker.

C U LT U R E

How is the Arctic landscape woven through the exhibition?

The Arctic landscape will take a prominent place in the exhibition.

We want to bring the Arctic to London so that the visitor can have an immersive experience.

The land, sea, and ice are of pivotal importance to Arctic Indigenous Peoples. Inuit carvings depict various animals such as a narwhal, a polar bear, a caribou (wild reindeer), or an owl. Inuit art, likewise, emphasises the importance of the land. Perhaps nobody shows this as successfully as acclaimed Inuit artist Kenojuak Ashevak (1927-2013) in her 1992 drawing Nunavut Qajanartuk (Our Beautiful Land). The circular drawing shows the seasonal lives of Inuit in Nunavut with scenes of habitation, hunting and travelling.

PHOTOS: © THE BRITISH MUSEUM

How have you showcased the contact with outsiders?

Some Arctic Indigenous Peoples met “southerner” explorers and traders in the early 19th century, but others had a much longer or shorter history with “southerners”.

The exhibition highlights several drawings to show how European expansion into the Arctic often led to conflict or collaboration. Three drawings by the English artist John White, made somewhere between 1585 and 1593, show the violent escapades of Sir Martin Frobisher’s 1576-1578 voyages to the Hudson’s Strait to explore new lands.

Arctic Indigenous Peoples also began to incorporate Southerner clothing styles and Christianity. For example, an Aleut parka made from sea-mammal gut is in the style of a Russian officer’s cloak, while another Aleutian artisan made a calendar from driftwood and walrus ivory to keep track of important Russian Orthodox days. In other cases, like a Sámi bag that includes older spiritual designs in contemporary objects, the Peoples have adjusted their spiritual objects to be

“hidden” from the colonial regimes.

Wildlife features heavily, too.

“Southerners” are prone to speak about animal instincts but Arctic Indigenous Peoples believe an animal’s personhood is akin to that of a human, and stress the ongoing importance of nourishing respectful relations with animals.

A breakdown in such relations can lead to dire consequences such as the withholding of luck for successful hunting, bad weather or even death. When looking at Inuit artist Pudlo Pudlat’s lithograph Forced Immigration, which shows a polar bear, a walrus and a muskox hanging from a military helicopter, one might ponder what such actions would have resulted in.

While hunting has mainly been done by men, women play a crucial role in maintaining good relations with animals too. Animals give themselves to the hunters and their families who observe respectful relationships. Women, therefore, have moral obligations to make beautiful garments from hunted animals for the men to wear during the hunt. The processing of food also needs to be done properly to maintain the family’s wellbeing.

What is your favourite item?

With over 280 objects it is difficult to pinpoint one item, so allow me to highlight a few. Small beads made from mammoth ivory offer insight into how Arctic Peoples created beautiful objects as early as 32,000 years ago. A reindeer-antler needle and bird-bone needle case

from Zhokov Island were made about 9,000 years ago, and a piece of a willow basket from the same site and era tell us how life would have been for Arctic ancestors.

Coming closer to the present day (AD500-1300), a Dorset wand with 27 faces, each with a unique expression, has been carved in a caribou antler. And a map from the Bering Strait drawn on sealskin in the 1850s shows the annual movements of the maker.

Another unique object is a waterproof Kalaallit whaling suit made from sealskins. It’s the only one that remains intact and would have been used by a hunter to jump on a sleeping whale and harpoon it.

Perhaps my most favourite item is an early 20th-century Gwich’in summer outfit made from caribou skin. The colourful porcupine quills set against the white reindeer skin are beautiful and the skills of the Gwich’in seamstress are exceptional.

This is just a small selection of the objects that will captivate, amaze and inspire visitors.

Clockwise, from above: Andrew Qappik (b. 1964, Inuit, Pangnirtung, Nunavut, Canada), There’s Another One. Coloured stencil drawing, 2012. © Andrew Qappik; Child’s all-in-one suit made of caribou fur. Inuit, Igloolik, Nunavut, Canada. 1980s. © Trustees of the British Museum; Ivory model sled with dogs, Northeast Siberia, Russia. © The Trustees of the British Museum.

The Citi exhibition Arctic: culture and climate at the British Museum will be one of the first exhibitions after the Museum re-opens. Loans may be impacted by the Covid 19 health emergency. The accompanying book, published by Thames & Hudson in collaboration with the British Museum, will be available when the exhibition opens.

Check britishmuseum.org for the updated opening details.

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This page: Guests on a Viking Longship enjoy a closer view of the castles lining the Rhine River near the town of Kaub, in Germany

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Tour de

FORCE T

o get to the very heart of some of Europe’s most beautiful and historic cities there is perhaps no better way to travel than by river, as I discovered with great pleasure on my glorious Grand European Tour voyage with Viking. Just the name of the cruise was enough to stir my romantic sensibilities, conjuring up images of days gone by when wealthy young men embarked on a two-year Grand Tour of Europe in search of great enlightenment, education and inspiration.

I too was hoping for all those things from my 15-day adventure exploring the cities, towns and diverse landscapes that line the banks of the Rhine, Main and Danube rivers. And I wasn’t disappointed. In fact, by the end of my journey I had gained so much more, including new friends, more luggage and a few extra pounds.

Isn’t that the mark of a good trip?

River cruising really is a different way of seeing the world. Every day brings new scenery and exciting destinations, from ancient rural towns to thriving cosmopolitan cities; vineyard-covered hills to mountainous forests watched over by crumbling fairy-tale castles.

River cruise ships are so much smaller than ocean liners, but this means they can transport you right into the very centre of the city and moor up, putting all the sights and attractions within walking distance of your floating hotel.

When you’re docked somewhere overnight, it makes it really easy to spend more time getting to know a place on your own – and the staff on board are great with directions, so I was never afraid of getting lost or missing out on a wonderful opportunity that came my way.

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

Lisa Small discovers stunning architecture, delicious cuisine and vibrant culture on a Grand European Tour

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T R AV E L From left to right: Majestic houses reflect in the canal waters in Amsterdam; watch the sunrise over a spot of breakfast on the Aquavit Terrace

was actually surprisingly spacious once you stepped on board. The lovely Sun Deck was a great place to sit and soak up the scenery with a glass of something chilled, the comfortable and surprisingly airy lounge was where it all happened before and after dinner and as for my stateroom…well it was more like a hotel room.

Arriving in Amsterdam, the thought of a whole 15 days stretching ahead of me seemed like a deliciously long time, though I wanted to be sure to do justice to the rich history and culture of The Netherlands, Germany, Austria and Hungary. There’s something about being on the river, about gliding silently through the countryside, that is truly relaxing and feels a million miles from home and work.

Life happens at a much slower pace somehow, despite being able to take so much of Europe in.

I don’t know how Viking does it, but it really does work.

Our adventure started on the Rhine with a tour of the charming 17th-century streets and canals of old Amsterdam. I had visited

It doesn’t matter how far you have travelled... nothing quite prepares you for the jaw-dropping natural beauty of the Middle Rhine

PHOTOS: ©ISTOCK

BENEDICTINE TREASURES Melk Abbey, perched on dramatic cliffs high above the Danube, is perhaps the most graceful landmark of the Wachau Valley. The interior of the Abbey’s church is a kaleidoscope of red, orange and gold, and a highlight is the Imperial Staircase which leads off the impressive library.

the city before, but this time there was something really special about being on the water and a real part of the whole city scene. Whilst in The Netherlands, we went to see the famous Kinderdijk windmills.

It was a great opportunity to take some photographs and learn more about why these brilliant structures formed such an integral part of the Dutch landscape, which is criss-crossed with waterways.

The Rhine continued its natural course into Germany and we went with it, spending the next eight fantastic days cruising through some of Europe’s most utterly breathtaking scenery, all while making the most of Viking’s

wonderful hospitality, excellent facilities and delicious food.

It doesn’t matter how old you get, or how far you have travelled across the many countries of the world, nothing quite prepares you for the jaw-dropping natural beauty of the Middle Rhine. Dramatic cliffs, hilltop castles straight from the pages of Sleeping Beauty and quaint riverside towns boasting gabled houses and cobbled squares really do still exist in this magical land that time appears to have forgotten. It’s a place I, and my fellow travellers, will certainly not forget in a hurry.

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was one of the lovely things about my cruise. I met some wonderful, like-minded people and thanks to the intimacy of our Viking Longship, I had the opportunity to enjoy their friendly and interesting company throughout the voyage.

There were no fixed seating plans at dinner so we were free to share the fabulous food and conversation with different people on different nights, which kept the atmosphere really informal and gave everyone the opportunity to meet and get to know new people.

Other notable German highlights for me were stopping off for a beer in Germany’s oldest inn – ‘The Inn of the Giant’ – in Miltenberg; seeing the magnificent

Much of this part of The Netherlands is actually below sea level. As the original technological marvels of historic Kinderdijk, these 19 windmills have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Built in the mid-18th century, these structures stand like sentinels on a hushed landscape.

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

WINDMILLS OF KINDERDIJK

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I had a glass of wine in my hand, and was looking up at the inky black night sky, illuminated by a thousand stars, as we sailed into beautiful Budapest

Clockwise, from above: The rooftops of beautiful Vienna; the Hungarian Parliament is a sight to behold on the Danube; dining with a view is one of the benefits of sailing with Viking

frescoes in the Bishop’s Residenz in Würzburg; tucking into sausages and sauerkraut at the Old Sausage Kitchen in Regensburg and shopping for gingerbread and pink pepper chocolate in Passau.

Once on the Danube, we sailed into Austria where we encountered countless ‘camera-ready’ moments between Melk and Krems and a fabulous tour of the culturally rich and history-packed capital, Vienna.

The end of this most memorable of journeys was marked by a moment I will cherish forever... standing out on the top deck of our Longship, there was music playing

gently in the background, I had a glass of wine in my hand, and was looking up at the inky black night sky, illuminated by a thousand twinkling stars, as we sailed into the beautiful and historic city of Budapest. It was a truly magical experience and an absolutely wonderful way to end our 15-day adventure cruising through Europe’s majestic and enthralling waterways.

A 15-day 2022 Grand European Tour river cruise, sailing from Amsterdam to Budapest, starts from £2,895pp.

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ITINERARY

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ITINERARY

Spirit of the north This illuminating cruise combines epic scenery and snow-dusted landscapes with Sámi legends and rock carvings DAY 1 / LONDON

Clockwise, from top left: colourful houses in UNESCO-listed Bryggen wharf, in Bergen; the Sámi have herded reindeer for centuries; the Arctic Cathedral is one of Norway’s landmarks

Arrive in Tilbury, London, and take some time to settle into the ship – your home for the next 13 days.

DAY 2 / CRUISE THE NORTH SEA Setting sail for the North Sea, you’ll have ample time to learn about this vast body of water and its importance throughout history, as well as take in panoramic views.

DAY 3 / STAVANGER, NORWAY You’ll have a day to explore the old town, Gamle Stavanger, known for its charming cobbled walkways and white wooden buildings. You might also like to cruise along the Lysefjord to spot the remarkable Preikestolen rock or visit the museum for some history.

DAY 4 / CRUISE THE NORWEGIAN SEA Cruising the Norwegian Sea to your next port of call, you’ll have lots of time to make the most of your ship’s amenities, from The Spa to the Scandinavian eateries.

DAY 5 / BODØ, NORWAY

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

Lying just north of the Arctic Circle is Bodø, a city rebuilt after experiencing unprecedented destruction in World War II. From here you’ll be able to enjoy an included tour to see the Customs House, the Norwegian Aviation Museum and Gothic Bodø Cathedral with its dramatic 36-metre clock tower.

famed for its striking triangular shape. Another highlight is the Tromsø Wilderness Centre, while a once-in-a-lifetime glacier trek to discover Norway’s wilderness is the perfect way to spend day two here.

DAY 8 / ALTA, NORWAY Spend the next two days on the shores of Altafjord, the gateway to the Arctic and a great place to spot the northern lights. You can also visit rock carvings telling stories of Norwegian culture, something you can learn more about at the Alta Museum, or take a trip to the Northern Lights Cathedral with its flame-like steeple.

DAY 10 / NARVIK, NORWAY Narvik is situated on the innermost shores of Ofotfjord and enjoys a dramatic backdrop of mountains and a huge glacier that tumbles right down to the water’s edge. Explore the Polar Park, where you can spot Arctic wolves in their natural habitat as well as other wildlife.

DAY 11 / CRUISE THE NORWEGIAN SEA After departing from Narvik, you’ll have another chance to discover your ship’s highlights. Try out the Viking Art App installed on your mobile device, where you can learn all about the Scandinavian-inspired art on board.

DAYS 12 & 13 / BERGEN, NORWAY

DAYS 6 & 7 / TROMSØ, NORWAY

Be greeted in Bergen by UNESCO-listed Bryggen wharf, a harbour lined with cute 18th-century houses. Spend your last night on board before returning home.

Your next port of call is the northern city and island of Tromsø with its quaint historic centre and surrounding snowcapped peaks. Be sure to visit its Arctic Cathedral,

The 13-day 2022 In Search of the Northern Lights trip around Norway starts at £3,990pp.

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Viking BOOK CLUB Here we select a few of our favourite books…

JOIN OUR BOOK CLUB

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www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/why-viking/community/book-club

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BOOK CLUB

Atlantic Books, £14.99

Split between modern day Paris and Prague in the heady summer of 1985, the narrative follows Laure who, today, owns and curates her own museum in the French capital. Every object has been donated – a cake tin, a wedding veil, a baby’s show.

And each represents a moment of grief or betrayal. Yet hidden away are artefacts from Laure’s own painful youth – secrets that hint at her brush with life with dissident politics behind the Iron Curtain.

As Laure faces up to the love that has shaped her life, the novel also reveals some of the darkest moments in European history.

OLD GLORY: AN AMERICAN VOYAGE BY JONATHAN RABAN Eland Publishing, £14.99

Ever since reading The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn as a seven year old, British author Jonathan Raban dreamt of navigating the waters of the Mississippi in a spartan 16ft motorboat. Thirty years later, in the late 1970s, he turned his childhood dream into a reality to create this masterpiece of contemporary American travel writing.

During the course of his voyage, Raban records all the mercurial caprices of the river and the varied lives of the people who live along its banks, all with a dose of wry humour. He is an expert observer of the hospitality, energy and charm of America’s heartland as he finds himself, at times, vulnerable, curious, angry and foolishly in love

THE SHADOW OF THE WIND

BY CARLOS RUIZ ZAFÓN Orion Publishing Co, £8.99

Hidden in the heart of the old city of Barcelona is the ‘Cemetery of Lost Books’, where a man brings his 10-year-old son Daniel one cold morning in 1945. He is allowed to choose one book from the shelves and pulls out ‘The Shadow of the Wind’ by Julian Carax.

As he grows up, several people seem inordinately interested in his find, igniting Daniel to launch his own investigation into the author’s life. What begins as curiosity soon turns into a race to find out the truth behind the life and death of Julian Carax. This stunning literary thriller will have you hooked.

GALÁPAGOS

BY KURT VONNEGUT HarperCollins, £8.99

This madcap classic takes readers back one million years to 1986.

The plot follows a mismatched cast of characters who set off on holiday to the fictional island of Santa Rosalia in the Galápagos archipelago. When an apocalypse then ensues, a small group of survivors end up stranded on Santa Rosalia and find themselves the progenitors of a brand new and totally transformed human race – think thick fur, flipper-like hands and streamlined skulls.

Full of Vonnegut’s trademark satire, dark humour and originality, his 11th novel questions the merit of the human brain from an evolutionary point of view as he uses Darwin’s theory to reach his conclusions and reveal all that is worth saving in the world.

THE BAT BY JO NESBO Vintage Publishing, £8.99

The first in the bestselling Harry Hole series, this thriller transports Nordic noir to sunny Sydney.

Following the murder of a young Norwegian backpacker, Harry is sent to Australia to investigate, and soon unearths a string of unsolved murders and disappearances.

Nothing will stop the detective from finding out the truth and the hunt for a serial killer is on, but the murderer will talk only to Harry.

The evocation of Australia itself has Nesbo’s customary expertise in this addictive read as the stellar plot keeps readers guessing until the final pages.

A THEATRE FOR DREAMERS

BY POLLY SAMSON Bloomsbury Publishing, £14.99

Escape to Greece in this new novel about the stormy undercurrents of an idyllic artist community on the island of Hydra.

Living tangled lives, the group of poets, painters and musicians are ruled by the writers Charmian Clift and George Johnston, troubled king and queen of bohemia.

Forming within this circle is a triangle: the magnetic, destructive writer Axel Jensen, his dazzling wife Marianne Ihlen, and a young Canadian poet named Leonard Cohen. Into their midst arrives teenage Eric who, settling on the periphery, watches, entranced and disquieted, as paradise unravels.

The spellbinding book is a tale of innocence lost and the wars waged between men and women on the battlegrounds of genius.

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THE MUSEUM OF BROKEN PROMISES BY ELIZABETH BUCHAN

A CITY to savour

Cassie Wilcox celebrates the rich history, forward-thinking spirit and culinary culture of the welcoming French city of Lyon

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PHOTOS: © ALAMY / ISTOCK / AWL

ivided by two rivers, the Saône and Rhône, Lyon’s topography first attracted the Romans, who founded the city’s predecessor, Lugdunum, on the steep slopes of Fourvière Hill in 43BC. Today, the basilica-crowned hill offers pretty views over the terracotta roofs of Vieux-Lyon (the Old Town), one of the world’s largest Renaissance neighbourhoods.

From Fourvière, you can walk (or take the funicular) downhill to the cobbled Croix-Rousse district in Vieux-Lyon and explore its warren of traboules – passages and tunnels created through houses and courtyards to offer silk workers a shortcut to market. And silk has had a key role to play in Lyon’s economy and culinary traditions.

Lyon boasts many titles, such as the silk capital and the ancient capital of the Gauls. But its most famous is the capital of gastronomy.

The city’s culinary heritage is the legacy of its mères, mothers who, when dismissed from the homes of bourgeois families during the economic crisis of 1929, set up their own restaurants called bouchons. Here, silk workers sat alongside businessmen and dined on simple, hearty dishes, washed down with a carafe of Beaujolais or CÔtes du RhÔne.

Pork is a menu staple in Lyon’s bouchons. Quenelles are another typical dish; light and airy dumplings, almost like a soufflé, made with creamed fish or meat.

For something lighter, try the Salade Lyonnaise, a green salad with bacon lardons, croutons, mustard dressing and a poached egg.

These mères taught many of Lyon’s now famous chefs, including Paul Bocuse who went on to establish his three Michelin-star restaurant L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, and his Lyon brasseries: Le Nord, L’Ouest, Le Sud and

L’Est, each specialising in a different region of French cuisine.

In a city of more than 2,000 restaurants, there is no shortage of innovative chefs and you could happily spend your days sampling the many delicious wares available.

At the epicentre of Lyon’s food culture is Les Halles de Lyon, the almost mythical indoor food market, with an international reputation for selling the finest produce available, anywhere.

It is an ideal place to taste the best of French and Lyonnaise cuisine, with over 50 vendors selling a vast diversity of produce.

Butchers, charcutiers, fromagers, pastry chefs and wine specialists have all set up shop, and once inside, you can wander around and enjoy a meal or choose a sampler plate. Among the culinary treasures are Lyon’s signature brioches au pralines, and an extraordinary array of cheeses made with cow, goat and sheep’s milk. Chocolates make a wonderful gift to take home, as do macarons, in flavours such as strawberry and tarragon, and lemon and cassis. One thing is certain, it is impossible to leave empty handed.

Few things sum up a destination as honestly as its cuisine and culinary traditions. Food is at the heart of every culture. But in Lyon, food is more than the heart, it is the very soul of the city.

Clockwise, from above: Al fresco dining abounds in Lyon; many of the historical sites in Lyon overlook the two rivers

Viking offers a variety of excursions in Lyon, including Flavours of Lyon, on its 8-day Lyon & Provence river cruise.

2021 & 2022 prices from £1,595pp.

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A Taste of France Conjure up a delightful reminder of French cuisine with these classic dishes from our recipe book, The Kitchen Table

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RECIPES

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rench cuisine has long been the envy of the world. No matter whether it’s the rich flavours of the southern regions, with their Mediterranean influences, or the country-style dishes of the north, sophisticated tastes, elegant presentation and local produce can be guaranteed.

The recipes below include a classic Provençal fish stew, coq au vin – a a hearty, rustic dish with regional variations across France – and a traditional French apple tart.

BOUILLABAISSE TOULONNAISE Serves 4 INGREDIENTS:

• Olive oil • 125g (4 ½ oz) fennel, sliced • 2 red onions, chopped • 1 tsp sea salt • 1 tbsp tarragon, chopped • ½ tsp black pepper • Fish heads, bones and offcuts • 1kg (2.2 lb) tomatoes, roughly chopped • 2 tbsp tomato purée • 1 pinch saffron threads • 1 lemon, juiced • 2 tbsp butter FOR THE ROUILLE:

• 3 egg yolks • Salt and pepper • ½ lemon, juiced • Pinch saffron • Pinch cayenne pepper • 200ml (6 ¾ fl oz) olive oil • 2 cloves garlic, crushed • 200g (7 oz) salmon • 200g (7 oz) pollock • 200g (7 oz) monkfish • 450g (1 lb) mussels, scrubbed, beards removed 1. To make the broth, heat 4 tablespoons of olive oil in a large pan over a medium heat. Add the fennel and cook for 3 to 4 minutes without it colouring, then add the red onion, sea salt, tarragon and black pepper.

2. Add the fish bones and offcuts and the tomatoes, then cover with water. Bring to a simmer, skimming off any residue that rises to the

surface. Add the tomato purée and saffron and bring back to a simmer.

Cook for about 1 ½ hours, or until it has reduced by about a third.

3. Sieve the broth, pressing down the contents of the sieve with a ladle to extract as much liquid as possible, then add the lemon juice and whisk in the butter. Check the seasoning, then cool and refrigerate.

4. To make the rouille, whisk the egg yolks with the seasoning, lemon juice, saffron and cayenne

pepper. Slowly add the oil in a thin stream, whisking continuously, then stir in the garlic. Add a little warm water if it is too thick. Set aside until needed.

5. Bring the reserved broth up to a simmer, then add all the fish.

Poach until just tender, adding the firmest fillets first, then remove and place on a serving platter.

Ladel over the broth. Serve with the rouille on the side and some garlic croutons.

Above: Bouilleabaisse was first created by French fisherman with unwanted fish from their catch

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RECIPES

COQ AU VIN SERVES 6 INGREDIENTS:

• 2 tbsp plain (all purpose) flour • 1 large chicken, jointed • 2 tbsp butter • 125g (4 ½ oz) bacon lardons • 1 medium onion, chopped • 1 medium carrot, chopped • 1 bottle full-bodied red wine • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced • 1 tsp sugar • 1 bouquet garni (bundle of parsley, bay leaves and thyme) • Olive oil • 225g (8 oz) baby onions, peeled • 225g (8 oz) small button mushrooms, trimmed • Small bunch of fresh parsley METHOD:

1. Season the flour generously, then toss the chicken pieces in the seasoned flour until well coated.

2. In a heavy-based casserole pot, melt a tablespoon of the butter. Fry the chicken pieces, turning around until they are golden brown.

Remove the chicken pieces and set aside. Add in the bacon, onion and carrot and fry for around 5 minutes.

3. Pour in the wine, de-glazing the pan and scraping any caramelised bits stuck to the bottom. Add the chicken back in along with the garlic, sugar and bouquet garni.

Cover and simmer for an hour.

4. Before serving, melt another tablespoon of butter in a frying pan along with a tablespoon of olive oil. Add in the baby onions and mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and fry until golden.

Stir in to the chicken.

5. Remove the bouquet garni and garnish the coq au vin with chopped fresh parsley. Serve straight from the casserole.

The Kitchen Table

COOKERY AND TRAVEL €20

A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD

Front cover: “Traveling Tomatoes” photographed by Karine in the Umbrian Countryside

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

arine Hagen on epresent some of . From our kitchen your culinary how simple and me.

THE KITCHEN TABLE The

Kitchen Table

2nd Edition

A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD

Join Viking’s Karine Hagen as she explores dishes that represent some of the world’s most interesting destinations.

All recipes included here are featured in The Kitchen Table, which is now available to view on Viking.TV

TARTE FINE AUX POMMES SERVES 6 INGREDIENTS:

• Plain (all purpose) flour, for dusting • 320g (11 ¼ oz) all-butter puff pastry • 4-6 apples • 1 lemon • 2 tbsp butter • 4 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/ 400°F. On a flour-dusted surface, roll out the pastry as thinly as you can (around 3-5mm is ideal) and cut out a 22cm circle using an upturned cake tin or plate as a template. Place on a baking sheet

lined with baking paper and chill in the refrigerator until you’re ready to assemble the tart.

2. Peel, core and thinly slice the apples. To prevent them going brown, place in a bowl of cold water with a squeeze of lemon.

3. Arrange the apple slices in overlapping, concentric circles around the pastry base, leaving a small border. In a small saucepan, melt the butter and 3 tbsp sugar together and brush generously all over the apples and pastry border.

4. Bake for 20 minutes, then brush again with the butter and sugar mixture and dust with the remaining tablespoon of sugar.

Bake for another 5-10 minutes, or until golden on top. Serve at room temperature.

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OCEANS

The

NORWEGIAN SEA To celebrate World Oceans Day in June, we bring to life the geography, resources and discoveries related to this northern ocean

I

f you pulled Norway’s crinkled coastline out into a straight line, it would circle the planet two and a half times.

From north to south, the country measures less than 1,100 miles, but its coastline is a huge 63,000 miles of fjords, bays and island shores.

This glorious natural wonder was shaped during the last Ice Age when glaciers several miles high pushed into the land, resulting in dramatic soaring peaks, like those seen on the Lofoten Islands.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

A RICH SOURCE OF FOOD

Stretching out into the Norwegian Sea, the remote Lofoten archipelago shows off the sculpting power of nature. The islands are home to the world’s greatest cod harvest. Each winter, the icy Arctic Ocean meets the Gulf Stream, attracting Arctic cod from the Barents Sea. These relatively warm waters are why the sea here remains ice-free all year.

Tørrfisk or stockfish is dried and salted fish (usually cod), made in Norway for centuries. Traditionally dried outdoors by the wind and sun as a way to preserve nutrients, row upon row of fish hang on wooden racks along the shores of Lofoten, as it has done for 500 years.

These waters are also rich in herring, and the abundance of fish in turn attracts an abundance of other animals. Minke, humpback, sei and orca come to feed, while the cries of puffin, kittiwake, gannets, gulls and guillemot pierce the sky.

Until the 20th century, the coast was sparsely populated, although the coastal Sámi, who first colonised the land, have been living here for up to 4,000 years.

BEYOND THE HORIZON

From the deck of a ship, you sense a timelessness about the land, which is both wild and resilient.

You can understand the pull of

the sea that Norwegian explorers like Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen felt. For many years, the Norwegian Sea was thought to be the edge of the known world.

To sail across the sea was an act of daring. It was also a great achievement of navigation.

By the eighth century, the only European seafarers to dare sail far enough to lose sight of land were the Vikings. Waiting for favourable winds, and armed with plenty of provisions (like stockfish) they ventured in all directions, to create new settlements and forge new trading routes. They navigated by the position of the stars, and the sun. West, towards the sunset, meant they were headed for England; east (towards the sunrise) meant home to Norway.

Symbolic of the Viking age, the Viking longships were sophisticated beyond their time, recognised, respected and imitated the world

Opposite: Traditional homes perch on wooden stilts in the Lofoten Islands

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OCEANS

Clockwise, from top left: A sperm whale breaches the Norwegian waters; fish dries on wooden racks along the coast; sea travel has always been vital to the Norwegian way of life; seagulls soar over the fjords; a traditional Viking ship; the Lofoten Islands attract thousands of puffins each year; the archipelago wows with its snow-capped mountain backdrop; Stavanger’s pretty old town

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over. Built not for comfort but for speed, agility and endurance, the ships’ innovative design allowed the Vikings unparalleled access to lands beyond their own.

Exploration is part of the Norwegian DNA. By exploring beyond the horizon, Norwegians have mastered the sea and, in turn, depend on it for transport, resources and trade. The 14th century was Norway’s Golden Age, a time of peace and growing international trade with Britain and Germany. This period of trade was controlled by the Hanseatic League who established a trading centre in Bergen. On Bergen’s Bryggen (wharf ) the preserved buildings of the Hanseatic League are a World Heritage Site and serve as

a reminder of the country’s enduring link to the sea.

OIL EXPLORATION

Today, the most important product of the Norwegian Sea is not fish, but oil and gas. Oil was first found in the Norwegian sector of the North Sea in 1969 and by 1990 the country was Europe’s largest oil producer. By 2000, oil and gas production accounted for 20 percent of Norway’s economy, and it had become one of the world’s most prosperous countries. The oil industry not only created jobs in production, but also in the supply chain and technology.

To sail the Norwegian Sea is to witness life along an eons-old coastline that is as mesmerising as

the sea itself. Under the dusky light of the midnight sun or the mid-winter blanket of darkness, the coast reveals tiny settlements in sheltered hills that appear unchanged through time.

The cities along the coast, from Bergen to Tromsø and, in the far north, Honningsvåg, were built on fishing, trade and exploration and they wear their heritage proudly. Wooden buildings from the 17th and 18th centuries line the harbour, where the fish markets sell the day’s catch. Deep, yawning fjords, offer a route inland to mountains and glaciers.

Many countries have a history and culture firmly anchored to the sea. None more so than the people of Norway.

Above: Fishing boats docked in Henningsvær, a village in the Lofoten Islands

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Vienna

Old and new fuse beautifully in Vienna, where classical music, Sigmund Freud and baroque sit alongside hipster coffee shops, cutting-edge cuisine and an artsy bohemian vibe

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n Vienna, you feel the weight of the Imperial City’s important history at every turn, with its impressive palaces, Baroque ballrooms and opulent opera houses, which still uphold the grand traditions.

When the Habsburg monarchy, who reigned in the 16th century, brought their wealth and influence to Vienna, the city was put on the map for its ornate Baroque style.

Then came the musical and artistic pioneers; it’s no coincidence that four of the top classical musicians in the world – Beethoven, Mozart, Strauss and Haydn – lived in Vienna, as did Sigmund Freud, and artists Schiele and Klimt.

Today the historic centre still draws crowds, and rightly so. The impressive Gothic St. Stephen’s Cathedral is seen as the symbol of Vienna with its tower stretching heavenwards for 136 metres. Don’t miss the eerie, dimly lit catacombs studded with skulls. Nearby the high-baroque Winter Palace borders Ringstrasse, the 19th-century

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boulevard that is home to many of Vienna's best-known sights, such as the Imperial Palace, the Vienna State Opera and Parliament.

However, Vienna is so much more than its rich past. Today it’s a bold and vibrant capital city. You’ll find maverick artists experimenting with street art along the banks of the Danube River and museums packed with Old Masters and imperial art, as well as showing exhibitions by contemporary talent such as Rachel Whiteread. Hip new coffee shops sit happily beside Kaffeehaus, and new architecture breathes fresh air into the city, including Zaha Hadid’s modernist library. To get the best out of Vienna its crucial to take in both of its equally enthralling sides.

Don’t miss

• MuseumsQuartier at the Imperial Stables is Vienna’s largest art complex housing an astonishing ten museums. Look out for Art Nouveau heroes Klimt and Schiele.

• Coffee and cake is a Viennese institution. Fuel up at traditional Vollpension café or try innovative das Möbel, where design pieces from its showroom are on display.

• Follow the locals in summer and spend time on the Danube. There’s a hop-on-hop-off boat, bicycles to hire or simply stroll along the river.

• Take a whirl on Vienna’s vintage Ferris wheel, the oldest in the world. Reserve a private cabin for a candlelit dinner to accompany the stunning Vienna skyline.

Clockwise, from this image: Vienna's Baroque Belvedere Palace; the elegant surroundings of the Café Sacher Wien

•Visit Vienna’s summer palace,

Schönbrunn, with its elaborate Rococo interior spread throughout 1,440 rooms. Linger in the wonderfully landscaped park to explore the maze and fountains.

Fast Facts

•Pez, the colourful sweetie

dispensers beloved by children, were invented in Vienna in 1927.

•Every year from New Year’s Eve to Easter is Viennese Ball Season, and over 450 balls take place during this period of time resulting in more than 2,000 hours of dancing.

•In 2018, Vienna was crowned the most liveable city in the world.

•The dazzling roof of St. Stephen’s Cathedral features 230,000 glazed mosaic tiles arranged in various patterns including a double-headed eagle – the symbol of the Austrian empire when it was ruled by the Habsburg dynasty.

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PHOTOS: Š ISTOCK/AWL IMAGES

Insider Tips

GREAT MUSICIANS

MARKET FINDS

OPERATIC WONDER

HERITAGE HORSES

Enjoy classical music at traditional concert hall Musikverein, then retrace the footsteps of composers such as Beethoven, Strauss, Haydn and Mozart by visiting the houses they once lived in around Vienna.

Spend an afternoon at Vienna’s multi-cultural food and flea market. Known as Naschmarkt, it spans over a mile and there are plenty of traditional sausage stands where visitors can stop for a Bratwurst and a beer.

This stunning 1,709-seat building is the home of the Vienna State Opera and features an impressive central chandelier. It also hosts the annual Vienna Opera Ball, which attracts attendees from all over the world.

The Spanish Riding School, home to the world-famous Lipizzaner stallions, is based at the Hofburg, a former imperial palace. The horses perform in the opulent baroque hall, in perfect unison with their riders.

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ON LOCATION with Karine

A

more appropriate title to this month’s edition might be At Home with Karine, which is, of course true for all of us. I hope you are staying well and safe.

These extraordinary times may have put a pause on travel, but we are looking at new ways in which we can stay connected, and share information – and inspiration – for when we can once again explore our wonderful world.

WELCOME TO VIKING TV At the end of March, we launched Viking.TV, a new experience channel designed to be an uplifting place where we can all continue to virtually explore the world together – online.

As well as daily live stream sessions, you’ll discover lots of additional programming at your fingertips on Viking.TV from short

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documentaries to reading lists and filmographies and classical music concerts, and much more.

VIKING.TV WEEKLY SCHEDULE

Guest Speaker Thursdays Renowned journalist Anne Diamond interviews guests who have led or are leading extraordinary lives.

Museum Mondays The Munch Museum director, curator and conservationists host Museum Mondays behind closed doors for Privileged Access to one of the world's most interesting artists.

At Home at Highclere Fridays Join the Earl and Countess of Carnarvon from their home, Highclere Castle, the historic country house that is the setting for the television series and film, Downton Abbey, every Friday.

Resident Historian Tuesdays Viking Resident Historians provide lectures on iconic milestones in world history and live Q&As.

Wellness Weekends Mona Therese takes us through gentle yoga exercises to balance the mind and body during these extraordinary times.

Arts & Music Wednesdays World-leading composers, conductors, photographers, artists, singers and musicians share insights into their creative worlds with you.

Exploring More with Karine Karine shares some of her favourite insights into world cultures through these awardwinning short documentaries.

Clockwise, from above: Karine hosting Viking.TV at home; Heywood Hill bookshop; Karine gets lost in a book; inside Libreria Acqua Alta in Venice; the weekly schedule on Viking.TV

COLUMN

For the love of books

B

ooks are another window to the world, and are a wonderful way to help minds stay stimulated during times of isolation. Our new Viking.TV site hosts a variety of recommended books (as well as films and music) relevant to each itinerary.

HEYWOOD HILL One of the world’s leading literary collectors and influential booksellers, Heywood Hill, shares with Viking a curiosity and interest in the world’s many fascinating people and places.

Together, we have curated an exclusive selection of books to enhance the experiences of Viking guests on board our ships.

On Viking.TV you can listen to Heywood Hill Chairman, Nicky Dunne’s engaging talk entitled “Confessions of a Bookseller”, which was so popular that he returned for another episode where he interviewed the proprietor of the shop (and Nicky’s father-in-law) the Duke of Devonshire, who gave us Privileged Access and insights into his home, Chatsworth House, one of Britain’s finest great homes.

A UNIQUE, PERSONALISED GIFT

Heywood Hill also provides a subscription service for individuals, where you can gift a year of books to friends and family based on their interests.

I love the idea of book subscriptions, which I gave to my father and other special people in my life last Christmas, and now they get a surprise book in the mail every month, tailored to their interests!

DISCOVER TWO OF MY OTHER FAVOURITE BOOKSHOPS When I travel, I love to discover, sometimes by accident, some of the more unusual independent bookshops.

These are invariably places where the owner is passionate about books.

Libreria Acqua Alta This hidden treasure in Venice is an extraordinary shop run by the charismatic Luigi Frizzo, who believes that books “make your soul come alive”. A book lover’s paradise, Libreria Acqua Alta is a truly unique interpretation of what a book store should be. It reflects Luigi’s playful spirit and his unwavering passion for the written word. Libreria Acqua Alta has an eclectic collection of nearly 100,000 titles and includes a staircase made entirely of books!

Shakespeare & Co. One of my favourite bookshops in the world is Shakespeare & Co. on Paris’s Left Bank. This literary haven was started in 1919 by a formidable woman and American idealist called Sylvia Beach, and it soon became a centre

for American expats like Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald.

After the war, the bookshop was bought

by American writer George Whitman and it became home to what he called tumbleweeds; aspiring writers who for years were able to work and live in the shop. The second floor is the library and has a room with beds for the tumbleweeds, as well as a piano. I’ve been to Shakespeare & Co. on several occasions when talented young pianists have been performing, and it’s been absolutely magical.

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THE RHINE, river of legends

In the first of a new series looking at the great rivers of the world, we focus on the Rhine – a waterway that is as commercially important as it is picturesque

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istory rarely repeats itself on the Rhine.

Every town, every castle, and just about every rock has its own story to tell.

It’s a river blessed with fairytale castles, vineyard-strewn hills, deep forests and picture-book towns.

One that the Romans defined as the edge of their empire. One where the Prussians built an innovative pontoon bridge to stop Napoleon’s advancing army. And one where, despite Hitler’s best efforts, US troops found a bridge still standing at Remagen, allowing Allied forces to enter the heart of Europe.

Old Father Rhine, as the Germans fondly call it, is Europe’s busiest river, although there is little sense of this on a sunny day, drifting slowly past mile after mile of steep vineyards guarded by craggy castles and the occassional sleepy town basking on its banks.

Although the Rhine is generally associated with Germany, the river

flows through or along the border of several other countries, including Austria, Lichtenstein, France and the Netherlands. The river rises in the Swiss Alps, making its way through the great expanse of Lake Constance, emerging at one end to cascade 21 metres over the foaming Rhine Falls at Schaffhausen.

Beyond Basel, the Rhine is navigable for river cruise vessels, which sail all the way between here and Amsterdam. The most famous (and most beautiful) stretch is the Romantic Rhine, or the Middle Rhine, where the river forces its way through a series of steep gorges, crossing the hilly heart of Germany’s wine-growing country.

Beyond the city of Bonn, the landscape flattens out into what has become the country’s industrial heartland, the now broad and powerful river flowing through cities such as Cologne and Düsseldorf before splitting into several arms in the Netherlands

Clockwise, from far left: Viking Mani sails along the picturesque Rhine; vineyards are a common feature in the hilly Middle Rhine area

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and draining into the North Sea. Several tributaries feed the Rhine, among them is the Necker, overlooked by the quaint university city of Heidelberg, and the Moselle, which twists and turns along a narrow, forest-clad valley.

The Main flows through Frankfurt, Germany’s financial powerhouse but with a lovely old centre, the Römerberg (Roman Hill), where a series of elegant patrician houses have been joined to create the Rathaus (town hall).

Then in nearby Würzburg, the Bishop’s Residenz is one of Europe’s finest baroque palaces, with ornate frescoes and immaculate gardens.

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has defined borders and empires.

Caesar’s armies reached what is now Cologne in 51 BC and built the first bridge, giving them access to the right bank and the hostile territories beyond. The waterway is dotted with former Roman settlements, vestiges of which remain in the form of ancient walls and watchtowers. By the Middle Ages, the Rhine was a treacherous route for sailors; every bend was guarded by a castle and bribes and taxes had to be paid to sail past.

Passenger shipping in a much more civilised form began with the evolution of the paddle steamer in 1836, returning after the war until the 1960s, when more modern

hotel ships started to appear.

Shipping on the river changed forever in 1992 with the opening of the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal, an engineering masterpiece that allowed ships, for the first time, to sail all the way from the North Sea, along the Rhine, through the canal to join the Main, into the Danube and east to the Black Sea. There are many highlights of a Rhine voyage, from the rolling hills of the Black Forest to the half-timbered houses and market squares of Strasbourg, where hours can be whiled away in a street café, sampling fruity Alsace wines.

For the length of the Rhine Gorge, the scenery is dominated

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by imposing castles perched on impossibly sheer rocky outcrops, each one hiding stories and legends of dynastic battles and evil-doing.

At St. Goarshausen, the river twists around jagged rocks in a series of deep whirlpools; it is here that the Lorelei nymph, according to legend, lured sailors to their deaths with her voice’s haunting beauty.

The pretty little town of Boppard reveals layer upon layer of history; here, you can see the remains of what was once a series of 28 Roman watchtowers, and the town’s original medieval gates.

In Cologne, ships moor close to the heart of the city, which is dominated by the magnificent

Dom (Cathedral). Bonn and Düsseldorf, meanwhile, have a wealth of superb art museums and some of Germany’s finest shopping.

Amsterdam, the final port on many Rhine voyages (or the first, depending on the direction of the trip), is packed with sights, from the graceful canals to the magnificent and newly re-opened Rijksmuseum, the Anne Frank House and the Maritime Museum.

Each season on the Rhine has its own charm. Spring is the time for admiring the glorious Dutch bulb fields, swathes of scarlet, blue, yellow and orange forming vast stripes across the landscape, and Keukenhof Gardens putting on a

beautiful display of colours.

Summer is the season of festivals, of long afternoons in riverside beer gardens and lazy days on deck as the ship drifts gently through lush vineyards and sunny meadows.

In autumn, the woodlands in the Middle and Upper Rhine turn yellow and gold and the wine harvest comes in, which is always a cause for celebration. December is the season for Advent cruises, exploring a new Christmas market every day, shopping for handmade gifts and sampling mulled wine.

Whatever the time of year, a voyage along the Rhine is a glimpse into the way this waterway has shaped European history.

Clockwise, from far left: Viking guests are able to enjoy lunch whilst appreciating the landscape of the Rhine region; Strasbourg comes to life at sunrise

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My SYDNEY

Viking’s Cassie Wilcox lived in Sydney for 17 years. She shares what she loves most about the Australian city

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and Vietnamese cuisine. Again, an enduring reward of immigration.

Australian chefs are creative, and make the most of the abundant fresh produce, including fish and shellfish. For melt-in-your-mouth sashimi, visit Sydney Fish Market in Pyrmont, choose your fish (tuna is a favourite) and watch the fishmonger slice it for you before feasting on it by the harbour. Joy. Living in Sydney, I never took for granted the fact that I could finish work and head to the beach.

There are lots to choose from: big, small, quiet, busy, surf or harbourside. My favourite was Clovelly – a tiny arc of sand framed by huge rocks in the city’s eastern suburbs. Bondi is of course the most iconic and you can explore it on one of Viking’s optional tours.

Another Viking excursion takes you to the Blue Mountains, west of Sydney. Named for the natural blue haze from the eucalyptus trees that carpet the region, its lush forests are staggeringly beautiful, and offer great walking. I used to love visiting the Blue Mountains,

especially in wintertime in July when the weather is cold and they celebrate Christmas, complete with a traditional Christmas lunch!

Within the city, the Royal Botanic Gardens is a wonderful oasis of plants and trees with inspiring views over the harbour.

The natural world and the great outdoors are never far away. This is a city that has public barbeques on the beaches and in the parks, and where dining al fresco is the norm, not the exception. Maybe the sunshine is why Sydneysiders are generally more relaxed and carefree. That sense of fun cannot help but rub off on you, and that is what I love – and miss – most about Sydney.

The optimism, the humour and the freedom that is part of a can-do culture.

Fun and carefree, Sydney is a city that never takes itself too seriously. It is a breath of fresh air, in more ways than one.

Clockwise, from below: Ferries berth in Circular Quay; Sydney excels with its fresh fish and shellfish; Cassie never tired of the iconic harbour

PHOTOS: © I STOCK/ ADOBE STOCK

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here is so much to love about Sydney, where do you start? Perhaps with Sydney Harbour, where Viking begins its Australia & New Zealand voyage.

The most beautiful harbour in the world (yes, really), I never tired of gazing at it. Sydney has grown up around its harbour, bays and coves, and exploring its pretty harbourside parks and suburbs is easy. From Circular Quay next to Sydney Opera House, catch one of the little ferries in any direction: west to Glebe or Balmain, north to Kirribilli or east to Manly. In all these places, you can sit on the waterfront admiring the views or stop at a café for a coffee break.

Speaking of which, the coffee in Australia is second to none, no doubt because of the huge wave of Italian migrants who now call ‘The Lucky Country’ home. Food and drink are a highlight of this city.

The best Italian food I’ve eaten was here, often in little local restaurants where Mamma supervises the kitchen. The same is true for Thai

Explore the mighty Mississippi, with Viking Celebrated in history and culture, the Mississippi River winds its way through America’s heartland, and Viking’s much-anticipated journeys along ‘Old Man River’ bring you the best of this exciting region. Experience St. Louis’s pioneer spirit and Natchez’ historic houses and southern hospitality. Stir your soul with Delta blues and New Orleans jazz. Retrace the steps of Cherokee pathfinders, Civil War soldiers and civil rights heroes. Savour Memphis barbeque, Gulf seafood and Creole cuisine. Inspired by our Viking Longships® and ocean ships, the brand-new Viking Mississippi is the most modern ship on the river.

Mark Twain said the Mississippi has ‘a new story to tell every day.’ Come and create your own story with us, along this fabled river.

Eight-day 2022 & 2023 Mississippi river journeys from £3,990pp Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices & availability are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom on Heart of the Delta departing on 21 or 28 January 2023. Single supplements apply. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

Embark on the ultimate adventure to the Arctic or Antarctica Discover the true Arctic on a journey to the top of the world, where polar bears reign and blue ice floats serenely on the horizon. Or explore Antarctica, the Last Continent, that is covered in ice and teeming with penguins, seals and whales.

Our new expedition journeys Arctic Adventure and Antarctic Explorer reveal a breathtaking view of the planet in its purest state, and take you to pristine landscapes to see wildlife in its natural habitat.

To allow you to best explore these unrivalled destinations, we have assembled a world-class expedition team to lead you on engaging shore landings, and esteemed scientific partnerships to develop enriching onboard programmes.

The expedition ship perfected, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris are home to just 378 guests, and build on our legacy of exploration, with many industry firsts. Availability is limited and we are now taking bookings for our 2022 voyages. Join us on the ultimate adventure aboard a ship that oers the ultimate in comfort.

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk