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EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking

Winter 2020/21 £3.95

ICONIC ISLANDS Highlights of a voyage to the Caribbean

POLAR HORIZONS

• THE ARCTIC OCEAN • TRIP OF A LIFETIME • ISLAND STOPOVER

CULTURAL CITIES

Discover the musical heritage of these fascinating hot spots

Embark on the ultimate adventure to the Arctic or Antarctica Discover the true Arctic on a journey to the top of the world, where polar bears reign and blue ice floats serenely on the horizon. Or explore Antarctica, the Last Continent, that is covered in ice and teeming with penguins, seals and whales. Our new expedition journeys Arctic Adventure and Antarctic Explorer reveal a breathtaking view of the planet in its purest state, and take you to pristine landscapes to see wildlife in its natural habitat. To allow you to best explore these unrivalled destinations, we have assembled a world-class expedition team to lead you on engaging shore landings, and esteemed scientific partnerships to develop enriching onboard programmes. The expedition ship perfected, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris are home to just 378 guests, and build on our legacy of exploration, with many industry firsts. Availability is limited and we are now taking bookings for our 2022 voyages. Join us on the ultimate adventure aboard a ship that oďŹ€ers the ultimate in comfort.

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk

WELCOME

Welcome to our winter edition of Explore More We are delighted to bring you a new issue to celebrate the start of an exciting new year ahead â€“ a year which will mark a return to travel and the discovery of new destinations. Join us as we journey to the islands of the Caribbean and try your hand at recreating regional recipes bursting with sugar and spice. Meanwhile, in Europe, the wine expert Bartholomew Broadbent shares his recollections of an early trip to Budapest as a boy, and television producer Fi Cotter Craig revisits her childhood memories during a stop-off in the Shetlands. Our online channel, Viking.TV, continues to broadcast a range of fascinating interviews, and in this issue we meet the eye surgeon Rob Walters, who tells us about his volunteer work with the eye charity Orbis, a truly life-changing charity that Viking is thrilled to support. For those of you who love a real-life fairytale, we round-up our favourite fortresses, castles and palaces around the globe. For me, Venice is hard to beat as a destination, and I take a look at my ongoing relationship with this magical place. We wish you all a wonderful year ahead, and very much look forward to welcoming you on board again soon. With best wishes,

Managing Director, Viking UK

ď€¸ Tweet us: @VikingCruises

Like us: facebook.com/VikingCruisesUK

Email us: uk-marketing@vikingcruises.com

Find out more about the Viking Explorer Society on our website

WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Co n t e n t s more

EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking

Winter 2020/21 £3.95

ICONIC ISLANDS POLAR HORIZONS

INSPIRING PEOPLE A spotlight on the work of Orbis, the charity that works to prevent and treat blindness

18 KITCHEN INSPIRATION Caribbean recipes to try at home

Highlights of a voyage to the Caribbean

• THE ARCTIC OCEAN • TRIP OF A LIFETIME • ISLAND STOPOVER

IN THIS ISSUE...

CULTURAL CITIES

42 THE GREAT OUTDOORS Gardening in the new year

Discover the musical heritage of these fascinating hot spots

50 ART SHOW We catch up with the curators of the exhibition pairing Edvard Munch and Tracey Emin

54 MY ARCTIC Viking’s Director of Expedition Operations shares his relationship with this part of the world

OFC_EM22V3_kate.indd 1

16/12/2020 11:47

Cover: The Caribbean region is teeming with flora and fauna

62 EUROPE UNCORKED Wine connoisseur Bartholomew Broadbent takes a tour of the continent’s vineyards 70 DREAMY DANUBE The story of the snaking river that weaves through the heart of Europe

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22 52

FEATURES

REGULARS

10 ON THE ISLANDS Travel blogger Marcas Adams on why the Caribbean is calling

6 VIKING NEWS The latest news and events as well as more details about the Viking Cruises British Art Prize 2021

22 FACING THE MUSIC From London to New Orleans,

16 CITY GUIDE: SAN JUAN A tour of the colourful

the global destinations to tick off your musical bucket list

colonial capital of Puerto Rico

26 DANUBE DISCOVERY Join travel writer John Wilmott as he takes a look at the highlights of a voyage on the Danube

32 CITY GUIDE: PASSAU The picturesque Germanic town of Passau, right on the border with Austria

34 CASTLE SECRETS Fabulous fortresses across the

44 FASHION A selection of seasonal pieces to complement and enhance every wardrobe

46 SCOTTISH ISLES Fi Cotter Craig shares her highlights of a trip to the Shetland and Orkeny Islands

52 CITY GUIDE: BERGEN The majestic city that looks out

58 SECRETS OF THE DEEP The northernmost of the seas, the Arctic Oceanâ€™s landscape is a spectacle to behold

66 VIKING BOOK CLUB A range of non-fiction books to inspire your next adventure

74 POSTCARD FROM... Wendy Atkin-Smith takes a tour

68 KARINE ON LOCATION Executive Vice President Karine Hagen shares her highlights of St. Petersburg

world that are well worth a visit

of Venice and shares a few of her favourite moments

onto the North Sea, a gateway to the fjords

WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Viking NEWS

A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking

HEALTH CHECK Above: Viking Star is the first ocean ship to be fitted with a fullscale PCR testing laboratory

Viking has become the first cruise line to complete the installation of a full-scale polymerase chain reaction (PCR) testing laboratory at sea. The laboratory on board Viking Star has enough capacity for up to daily testing of every crew member and guest, which provides flexibility to respond to COVID-19 prevalence levels around the world. In the coming months, Viking will complete the installation of PCR laboratories on the remainder of its ocean ships – and will also have

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a strong network of shoreside laboratories for its river ships. “The recently announced CDC guidelines are clearly aligned with our public health research, and we welcome the agency’s push toward testing, as we believe this is the only way to safely operate,” said Matt Grimes, Vice President of Maritime Operations for Viking. “In our view, continuous PCR testing, along with our extensive onboard hygiene protocols, will lead to making Viking ships a

safe place to get away to and explore the world.” In addition to this, Viking has appointed surgeon and Vice Admiral Raquel C. Bono as Chief Health Officer to oversee the restart of operations, with a focus on public health. A retired Vice Admiral of the United States Navy Medical Corps, and a trauma surgeon, Dr. Bono most recently led Washington State’s medical and healthcare systems response to the COVID-19 pandemic.

NEWS

2022-2023 VIKING WORLD CRUISE Building on the success of our previous world cruise itineraries, we are excited to announce the new 2022-2023 Viking World Cruise journey. Taking in 28 countries over the course of 138 days, guests will be able to experience a huge range of cultures and climates as they travel the world. With shore excursions on offer in every port, as well as exclusive performances and concerts, guests will have the opportunity to pursue their interests and learn new skills.

THANK YOU!

Viking has won Best River Cruise Holiday Company at the prestigious British Travel Awards 2020 for the 12th year running. A special thanks goes to everyone who voted, we are thrilled and so proud of the team.

BEST IN SHOW We are thrilled to announce that Viking has won not only Best Boutique Cruise Line but also Best River Cruise Operator in The Times & The Sunday Times Travel Awards 2020. The awards are voted for by readers of The Times, Britain’s oldest national daily newspaper, and its sister title The Sunday Times, currently the biggest selling quality print newspapers in the UK, with over 330,000 votes registered overall this year. “This recognition demonstrates that our loyal guests are looking forward to sailing again as soon as possible and reflects the demand for Viking’s destination focus and for our smaller ships with spacious public areas and staterooms,” said Wendy Atkin-Smith, Managing Director of Viking UK. “We are looking forward to the day we can welcome guests back on board.”

THE VIKING CRUISES B R I T I S H A RT P R I Z E 2 0 2 1 We are proud to announce the launch of this major new national open art competition which will provide artists of all levels with a platform to gain exposure and recognition for their work. Whether you are a hobby painter, an emerging artist or a seasoned professional, all styles, media, ideas and techniques will be considered. Launched in conjunction with four major consumer magazines – Artists & Illustrators, The London Magazine, Britain and The English Home – the winner will have access to a combined audience of almost a million art lovers and collectors. In addition, there is a prize fund worth more than £10,000 which includes art vouchers, cash prizes, a Viking river cruise worth £7,000 and a chance to win your own solo exhibition at London gallery Panter & Hall. Viking guests can enter for free, and the deadline for entries is 5pm on 21 January 2021. www.artistsandillustrators.co.uk/britishartprize WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

INSPIRING PEOPLE: Rob Walters We meet the consultant ophthalmologist who is also a volunteer surgeon for Orbis, the international non-profit organisation bringing people together to treat avoidable blindness

Above: The Orbis Flying Eye Hospital is a state-of-the-art medical teaching facility that also houses an operating theatre

MR. WALTERS, WHAT DREW YOU TO SPECIALISE IN EYE SURGERY?

It is a truly extraordinary area to be in. After seeing my first cataract operation as a student I knew that was what I wanted to do. HOW DID YOU GET INVOLVED WITH ORBIS?

I’d heard about Orbis and I loved the concept of what they were doing in low and middle income countries, helping people who couldn’t help themselves. I was actually giving a lecture in Bristol and someone in the audience was working with Orbis and, after the lecture was over we chatted and they invited me to join them – it was like manna from heaven from 8

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2020/21

my point of view. In 1994, I went on my first volunteer mission and I’ve worked with them ever since. CAN YOU TELL US A BIT MORE ABOUT THE WORK THAT ORBIS DOES?

Orbis is a sight-saving charity, dedicated to the treatment and prevention of blindness – through a range of programmes, as well as through advocacy, instruction and capacity building. It is a very varied approach but very constructive. It is estimated that more than 250 million people in the world are blind or have visual impairment, of which 75 per cent is treatable or preventable. Not only that but it is relatively cheap and easy to do.

WHAT ROLE DOES THE ORBIS FLYING EYE HOSPITAL PLAY?

The Orbis Flying Eye hospital is a great inspiration – it is unlike any plane you’ve ever seen before, and houses a state-of-the-art teaching facility complete with an operating room, classroom and recovery room. All three aircraft we’ve had have been donated, and the hospital equipment used onboard is all donated as well. It is extraordinary how generous people have been. HOW DOES ORBIS CHOOSE ITS PATIENTS?

Many people who live in low and middle income countries don’t have access to medical care, and specifically eye care. We always

CHARITY

ensure that everybody we see is always treated. We choose the cases that we treat in the Orbis Flying Eye Hospital based on things we would like to demonstrate to local students and doctors – it is essentially a teaching hospital. WHAT IS THE MOST COMMON PROCEDURE YOU UNDERTAKE?

Undoubtedly it must be cataracts. It takes 15 minutes and is very inexpensive. It is the most common operation that we teach because it allows the countries that we visit to start serving their own population so effectively. HOW MANY COUNTRIES DOES ORBIS VISIT?

We work in 19 different countries around the world – only 19 because we wish to work in depth for a long period of time and we work very closely with governments and with medical colleagues on the ground, with the idea that eventually we can withdraw and they can do it themselves. We also have a programme called Cybersight, which is a tele-medicine system (or a remote form of teaching) that reaches out to many more countries. For example, in 2019 we reached people in 183 countries. We could never presume to be able to treat the 253 million people needing treatment, so we always work at a very high level within the governments, with Ministers of Health and often Prime Ministers as well. We are very much working in partnership and often we learn as much as they learn from us. HOW DOES IT FEEL TO HELP PEOPLE TO SEE AGAIN?

It is an amazing moment when the bandages are taken off and someone

can see – the look of joy and amazement. I suppose one of my favourite cases was from one of my early trips with Orbis to Khartoum, in Sudan. We went to a huge refugee camp and I came across a young woman, 23 years old, being led by a child and totally dependent on other people. We examined her and it was evident that she had very dense cataracts. I operated on her and it went well. We saw her the

next day, and it was the first time she’d seen for more than ten years, and she went on to lead a great life. Just to be able to contribute to your community is so important.

Above: One of many Orbis screening camps in the developing world; ophthalmologist Rob Walters with a patient

To find out more and to donate, please visit www.orbis.org/Viking WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

This page: St. Lucia’s famous Twin Pitons lit by sunset’s glow

T R AV E L

ICONIC ISLANDS

Travel blogger Marcus Adams sums up the charm of the Caribbean and recalls the highlights of his West Indies Explorer trip

here is nowhere quite like Caribbean. For me, it has always had a charm unique to this part of the world. Not only is it a treat for the senses with some of the mostfriendly people Iâ€™ve ever met, but it also forms crucial and important part of world history. Cruising as we know it today grew up very much in the waters of the Caribbean and those foundations have dramatically influenced the cruise ships of today. As the great liners of the 20th century were not able to compete with the speed and increasingly low cost of air travel, especially on key routes such as the Transatlantic, 12

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many ships found themselves being used more and more for leisure cruising, with the Caribbean welcoming guests to 365 days of sun, sea, sand and culture. Fast-forward to today and the Caribbean is the number one cruise destination in the world. It was the destination of my first cruise in 1993 and I grew up spending many of my summers there, either on cruises, or on dry land while my dad worked out there. Now, every time I visit the stunning shores of the Caribbean, I feel like Iâ€™m coming back to see an old friend. These days when I travel, I want to learn and immerse myself in destinations. It is one reason why I

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; GETTY IMAGES

T R AV E L

of the islands. I feel it is really love travelling with Viking - sharing whether you already know the important as a traveller to learn as these magical experiences with like- Caribbean or if it’s your first much about the places you visit, time visiting. minded travellers. including the history (the good, One of the reasons I love this The West Indies Explorer itinerary the bad and, of course, the ugly) part of the world so much is the is no exception. This 11-day port in order to appreciate its culture. different character of every island, intensive itinerary explores the One reason I also southern Caribbean – Every time I visit the stunning love Viking is the by far my favourite of excursions part of the region. You shores of the Caribbean, I feel like I’m variety available, and one is will visit some of the coming back to see an old friend included in almost most iconic islands in every port you visit. the world, including So, on an itinerary like this it though one thing that’s guaranteed St. Kitts, St. Lucia, Antigua, really gives you the opportunity everywhere is the warmth and St. Martin and to top it off, spend to immerse yourself in Caribbean welcoming atmosphere that the one-night in San Juan, the capital culture. I’ve also found that on Caribbean is so well known for. of Puerto Rico. I always say, if you Viking trips, it’s fairly common are considering a cruise in a warmer One reason for the very different for people to do more than one climate, then there’s no better place island-to-island atmospheres is of course the complex colonial history excursion a day. to start than with the West Indies,

Clockwise, from far left: The colourful streets of San Juan Old Town; the lush Caribbean Sea lapping island shores; San Juan is a 16th-century capital settled by the Spanish; Viking Sea docking in St. Martin; delicious waffles on the menu at Mamsen’s

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T R AV E L Clockwise, from far left: Palm trees line a walkway to the beach; brightly painted harbourside buildings; local markets offer a variety of fresh produce

On our adventure, we took part in a variety of excursions, including taking in the sights of Antigua by visiting the stunning Shirley Heights and learning about its cultural history at Nelson’s Dockyard. In San Juan, we donned our walking shoes and went on an immersive walking tour through the Old Town and learnt how the piña colada was invented (it would be rude not to sample one

of the most stunning and fabulous spaces, whether on land or at sea. They exude a comfortable scandichic, and are well-suited to a variety of destinations. But for me, it is in a warm climate that I find these ships come into their own. Imagine enjoying dinner with a locally inspired menu al fresco on the Aquavit Terrace watching the sunset over St. Martin. Or how about enjoying a Norwegian breakfast in

I feel it is important as a traveller to learn all about the places you visit, the good, the bad and the ugly or two as well!) In Barbados, we enjoyed its famous pristine beaches and snorkelled with turtles and other flora and fauna in the coral reefs. Feeling a little more active, we also kayaked through tropical mangroves in St. Thomas. As you can see there’s no lack of choice to feed the mind, body and soul, depending on your preferences. Viking’s ocean ships are some

Mamsen’s in the Explorers’ Lounge while sailing into a new port-of-call? The Caribbean has something for everyone and will always be at the top of my list of places to visit again and again. Every visit brings new and exciting experiences. An 11-day 2022 West Indies Explorer trip starts from £3,290pp.

HIGHLIGHT: THE KITCHEN TABLE This optional excursion sees you venture off the ship with one of the on-board chefs to explore and learn about the local markets and produce. Then, upon returning to the ship, you will spend time in the exclusive Kitchen Table space – an interactive kitchen area and culinary school – where you cook and prepare a meal together using these ingredients alongside the on-board chefs. It was thoroughly enjoyable and I cannot recommend this experience enough.

WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

San Juan Welcome to San Juan, where gin-clear waters lap sugar-soft sands and a colonial history emanates from colourful buildings around every corner

ander the cobbled city streets of Puerto Rico’s San Juan, its electrifying energy is palpable. Colourful Caribbean buildings and bustling markets make for an aesthetically appealing feast for the eyes, tantalising street food sizzles on every corner and the constant soundtrack of the salsa beat brings a certain vibrancy to the island’s shores. Founded in 1521, the capital is the second oldest European-founded settlement in the Americas and today the colonial buildings and fortresses serve as a reminder of its rich past, harking back to an era when this Puerto Rican hub was a crucial Spanish outpost, and pirates ruled the unchartered Caribbean waters. Today, the holiday season is San Juan’s busiest time of year. Starting at Thanksgiving and lasting through to Three Kings Day on January 6, Puerto Ricans go all out

with celebrations, with delicious food and festive parrandas – a Puerto Rican version of caroling. The festivities culminate with the Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastian, known as la SanSe, a street festival on the streets of Old San Juan.

Don’t miss

• Make sure you pay a visit to Old

San Juan, where locals sit under palm trees on shady plazas. Home to the San Juan National Historic Site, with buildings dating back to the 16th century, it is here that you’ll find the tomb of Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León. • Unique to the capital are the old city walls and forts that overlook the calm waters of the capital, including the spectacular Fort San Felipe del Morro, an engineering feat that has long stood watch over the entrance of San Juan Bay. • San Juan’s capital is lined with resorts and several pristine beaches that boast gin-clear waters and sugar soft sands. Playa el Escambron sits to the east of the capital and is a picturesque spot featuring a coral reef, palms and excellent snorkelling opportunities. • Santurce is a neighbourhood steeped in modern culture and has a raw vitality fuelled by its lively street art scene. • The city is home to a wealth of interesting museums such as the Museum of Contemporary Art, housed in a neoclassical building with a wide collection of Latin American and Caribbean artists.

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Clockwise, from above: Houses decorated in vibrant colours line a street in the city of San Juan; street food is a highlight of any visit to the city

Fast facts

• Christopher Columbus arrived

in Puerto Rico in 1493, but the capital of the Caribbean island was not founded until 1521 by its first governor, Juan Ponce de León, who named it the City of Puerto Rico which translates to Rich Port. • The city’s Puerta de San Juan, or San Juan Gate, was built in the late 1700s and is one of six heavy doors in the wall that lines the seafront. For centuries, these doors were closed at sundown to cut off access to the city and protect San Juan from invasion, today they make for a fun photograph opportunity. • Pre-Christopher Columbus, the local Taíno Indians referred to Puerto Rico as Borikén, which translatates to the ‘Land of the Valiant and Noble Lord’ rich port. • In the early 16th century, San Juan was the departure point for expeditions to the New World.

CITY GUIDE

PHOTOS: ÂŠ ISTOCK

Insider Tips

RELIGIOUS PAST

GRAND DESIGNS

DANCE OFF

LOCAL TREATS

Donâ€™t miss the second oldest cathedral in the Americas, the Cathedral of San Juan Bautista. In shimmering white, the Roman Catholic church stands where the original cathedral was built in timber in 1521.

The fascinating mix of architecture is a result of four centuries of development, with Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles all jostling for position in amongst the old Spanish Colonial buildings.

The streets are alive with the energy of salsa beats and locals pride themselves on their dancing skills. The sound of Latin music floods the city in the evening, as people get together to dance and socialise.

From sweet churros to go with a morning coffee to quesitos (a cream cheese pastry) and alcapurrias (a snack made of mashed plantain and pork or beef), a great way to see the city is through its food.

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Caribbean cuisine Embrace the laid-back lifestyle and transport yourself to the beach with these easy-to-make aromatic recipes bursting with flavour

RECIPES

JERK CHICKEN Serves 4–6 INGREDIENTS:

• 2 scotch bonnet or jalapeño chilli peppers, chopped • 2 tbsp thyme • 1 tbsp ground allspice • 4 cloves garlic, chopped • 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated • 2 tbsp honey • 2 tsp salt • 2 tsp ground black pepper • 1 lime, juiced • 45ml (1 ½ fl oz) olive oil • 4 chicken breasts, cubed, or a whole chicken, cut into pieces 1. Place all the ingredients apart from the chicken in a blender and process until smooth. Pour the marinade over the chicken and allow to marinate for at least an hour. 2. Either grill the marinated chicken on a barbecue until cooked through, or bake in the oven at 200°C for 25 to 30 minutes, turning half way through the cooking time. Serve immediately with rice‘n’peas.

RUM PUNCH Makes one serving INGREDIENTS:

• 25ml (¾ fl oz) lime juice • 45ml (1 ½ fl oz) sugar cane syrup • 65ml (2 ¼ fl oz) dark Jamaican rum • 90ml (3 fl oz) water • A sprinkling of freshly grated nutmeg

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

1. In a wide glass tumbler, combine all the ingredients over ice cubes and stir well.

Clockwise, from above: Jerk huts selling this spicy local dish can be found all over the Caribbean; many variations of rum punch have evolved throughout the region Opposite: Colourful houses line the whitesand beaches and are gently shaded by palm trees

2. To make a larger batch, use the tumbler to measure each ingredient into a jug (one cup of lime juice, two cups of sugar cane syrup, and so on).

WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

For Vaishnavi’s sake, please don’t turn a blind eye

Three quarters of people who are blind don’t need to be. With access to treatment their sight loss could have been prevented. Sign up to CatarAction by Orbis and help combat cataracts – the leading cause of blindness around the world.

Just £10 a month can help offer surgeries to those most in need, giving people like Vaishnavi the gift of sight. In return we’ll send you three updates a year to show how you’re making a difference.

“Blindness is especially cruel when you know it can be avoided. It’s a condition close to all our hearts and at Viking we are committed to helping Orbis bring people together across the world to fight avoidable blindness in their own communities.” Karine Hagen, Executive Vice President of Viking

Sign up before 31st January 2021 and you will automatically be entered into a prize draw to win an eight-day river cruise on the Rhine with Viking, departing on any eligible date in 2021!

Pledge your support to treat cataracts, with a monthly gift today. Visit

cataraction.org/Viking www.orbis.org.uk

•

020 7608 7269

•

icare@orbis.org.uk

Orbis, Sixth Floor, 10 Lower Thames Street, London EC3R 6AF Orbis Chartiable Trust, an affiliate of Orbis International, is a registered charity no. 1061352 and a company limited by guarantee no. 3303689 (England & Wales)

ITINERARY

Great Lakes

Immerse yourself in the lakes’ compelling history and experience the power of thundering Niagara Falls in this fascinating region on the USA-Canada border DAY 1 / TORONTO, ONTARIO, CANADA Arriving into Canada’s largest city, you will have time to settle into your stateroom and to explore your ship.

DAY 2 / WELLAND CANAL & NIAGARA FALLS, ONTARIO, CANADA Enjoy a scenic cruise through the locks of the Welland Canal, a man-made shipping channel that connects Lake Ontario to Lake Erie. From Port Colborne, head off to visit the mighty Niagara Falls – walk along the top of the gorge or get up close during a thrilling boat cruise.

DAY 3 / POINT PELEE, ONTARIO, CANADA The southernmost point on the Canadian mainland, Point Pelee is an important stopover point for migratory birds; more than 350 different species have been spotted on this tiny sandspit that juts into the northwestern corner of Lake Erie. Canoe or kayak through the marshlands, or hike along park trails.

DAY 4 / DETROIT, MICHIGAN, USA Nicknamed “Motor City” and considered by many as the automobile capital of the world, Detroit sits on the border with the US and Canada. Visit the Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation and tour the renowned Detroit Institute of Arts museum.

DAY 5 / ALPENA, MICHIGAN, USA Alpena is the gateway to the Thunder Bay National Maritime Sanctuary, an underwater preserve that protects an estimated 200 sunken vessels spanning

much of the Great Lakes’ history of shipping. Paddle a kayak along the shoreline and view several of these shipwrecks that rest in the shallows, then learn more about the region’s strong ties to Lake Huron during a visit to the Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Centre.

DAY 6 / MACKINAC ISLAND, MICHIGAN, USA Enjoy an exciting day on idyllic Mackinac Island, located in the Straits of Mackinac, which link Lake Huron and Lake Michigan. Motor vehicles are banned here, and the only way to access the island is by boat. Take a sightseeing excursion by horse-drawn carriage, or dine at the elegant Grand Hotel, a Victorian-era building with the world’s longest front porch.

DAY 7 / TRAVERSE CITY, MICHIGAN, USA Traverse City – the “Cherry Capital of the World” – is surrounded by sand dunes, beaches, rolling hills and clear-blue waters. Indulge in the city’s emerging culinary scene during a trip around the Leelanau Peninsula or take a hike through Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore which offers sweeping views of its namesake dunes and Lake Michigan.

DAY 8 / MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN, USA Disembark your ship, or extend your experience with a post-cruise stay in Chicago. An eight-day 2022 Niagra & the Great Lakes journey from Toronto to Milwaukee, or in reverse, starts from £5,495pp. WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

Above: The mighty Niagara Falls is a group of three waterfalls at the southern end of Niagara Gorge

TOP 10

TOP 10 MUSICAL DESTINATIONS From traditional folk songs and Caribbean beach beats to the classical chords of Europeâ€™s grand cities, music is a wonderful soundtrack to our travels

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C U LT U R E

BERGEN Best known for his Piano Concerto in A Minor and Peer Gynt, Norwegian Edvard Grieg was a leading composer of the Romantic era. During your stay in Bergen on a Viking Homelands cruise, you can visit the composer’s historic home. You’ll also be treated to an exclusive recital of Grieg’s music, an unforgettable experience.

THE WEST INDIES

In the Caribbean, music festivals such as Carnival take place throughout the year, and every island has its own genres. From the steel pan drums in St. Kitts and salsa in Puerto Rico to calypso in St. Lucia, there is sure to be something that floats your boat.

5 ST. PETERSBURG

Russia’s musical culture is so precious to its people that even during the Soviet era, theatre companies such the Bolshoi and the Kirov (now called Mariinsky) were protected. On our Waterways of the Tsars trip, you can enjoy a sensational performance of Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake, with champagne served on the Spain’s most creative city is home balcony in the interval. to a feast of exciting music. And few music genres are more exciting than flamenco. On a Romantic Mediterranean ocean cruise, stay overnight in Barcelona, and have the opportunity to feel your spirit soar with an authentic footstomping, hand-clapping, heartracing flamenco performance. Olé!

BARCELONA

BERLIN

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

This uber-cool city has influenced many great names in music including David Bowie. But Berlin is perhaps best loved for its classical heritage and on our Elegant Elbe river journey, a two-night hotel stay enables you to book concert tickets ahead. Why not visit the sumptuous Charlottenburg Palace for a wonderful performance by the Berlin Residence Orchestra?

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LONDON

The English capital’s rich musical history has deep roots dating back to the Victorian era, when British music halls entertained the masses. Leaving a strong legacy in their wake, these halls paved the way for the London’s live music scene to thrive. Today, the city is known for its iconic venues, from The Royal Albert Hall with its classical concerts and the Roundhouse in Camden offering a wide variety of genres, to the many bars and venues lining the cobbled backstreets of Soho. Venturing north east of the river will take you to Abbey Road Studios, where Beatles fans mimic the routine pictured on the band’s iconic 1969 album cover.

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C U LT U R E

PORTUGAL Born along the waterfront, the dramatic songs of fado (literally ‘fate’) speak of life, struggle and passion. The genre originated in Portugal in the early 1800s and quickly took its place as the music of the country. In 2011, UNESCO recognised fado on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Experience this soulful music as you dine at the historic Alpendurada Monastery, overlooking the beautiful Douro River.

DUBROVNIK NEW ORLEANS Music fills the streets of this prominent Louisiana city, known as the birthplace of jazz. Music and history are deeply intertwined in New Orleans, and both its African heritage and the wave of immigrants that landed here have greatly inspired how music has evolved. The Big Easy is best known for its Mardi Gras celebration – a colourful brigade of floats, fancy dress and brass bands.

Dubrovnik’s medieval Old Town is especially magical at night and guests on a Mediterranean Odyssey journey can book an optional excursion to the spectacular Sponza Palace where you can take a seat in the 16th-century cloistered courtyard for an exclusive performance of traditional music and dance. Dressed in colourful national costumes, the award-winning troupe thrill audiences with their talent and energy.

10 VIENNA

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

Known as the City of Music, Vienna is a must for classical music fans. Many of the greats lived and worked here, including Beethoven, Brahms, Mozart, Strauss, Mahler, Haydn and Schubert, and the city holds annual festivals to celebrate their music. Feel your heart sing at an optional exclusive performance in a Viennese palace on a delightful journey along the Danube.

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This page: The spectacular view overlooking the Danube as it cuts through the city of Budapest

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A Spiritual Journey Travel writer John Wilmott admires the rich religious architecture on a trip along the Upper Danube

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Left to right: Göttweig Abbey is a Benedictine monastery near Krems, in Austria; façade detail of St. Peter’s Cathedral

t is easy to be impressed by the magnificent design of Austria’s Göttweig Abbey, especially when standing under the luminous frescoed ceiling at the top of the Baroque Kaiser Staircase. However, if you take the time to absorb the stories from your guide, along with the friendly ambience of this 11th-century Benedictine monastery, you’ll appreciate a less tangible aspect of its stormy history. Unlike many monasteries, where the monks have led an insular, contemplative life, those at Göttweig have long thrown open their doors to the outside world. They have reached out to schools and hospitals, teaching and nurturing, and, more recently, have provided support for refugees. The Abbey also reaches out to its

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communities in the most manifest way, topping a forested hill overlooking Austria’s resplendent Wachau Valley. The view is best embraced with a coffee on the terrace, on which you can mull over the fact that more than 600,000 tiles are being replaced to restore the giant complex’s roof. Göttweig, near the riverside town of Krems, can be explored on Viking’s Romantic Danube and Danube Waltz cruises – as can many other religious monuments. You don’t have to be devout to appreciate the beauty and history of these sacred buildings. If you start your journey in Budapest, the monumental Parliament Building and the memorable vista from Fisherman’s Bastion will inevitably capture

some of your time. Close to the latter, in the Castle District, do check out Matthias Church. This late Gothic masterpiece boasts a striking bell tower and one of the most richly decorated interiors you’ll find anywhere. Bratislava in Slovakia will come as a pleasant surprise to those who delve into its maze of streets. You can’t miss the monolithic castle that dominates the city, but wander beneath to find St. Martin’s Cathedral. It’s not the most immediately impressive church; its significance lies in its use for the coronation of Hungarian royalty between the 16th and 19th centuries. Close by, among the cobbled lanes, is the Holy Saviour Church, built at a time in the 17th century

PHOTOS: © ALAMY; ISTOCK; GETTY

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when protestant places of worship the Second World War. in 1662. Its claim to fame has now where not permitted to resemble If you like superlatives, Linz’s gone; it held the world’s largest Catholic buildings. Unusually, it New Cathedral is the largest pipe organ record until the 1990s, therefore has a tall triangular roof church in Austria. This hulking though with a mind-boggling instead of a spire. Gothic monument, consecrated in 17,774 pipes it’s still a Palace-packed Vienna is infused 1924, can accommodate 20,000 remarkable instrument. with music and The haughty Habsburg glory. west façade of the You don’t have to be devout to It’s also the city in French Gothic fully appreciate the beauty and history which St. Stephen’s St. Peter’s Cathedral Cathedral, one looms above the of these sacred buildings of my favourite Domplatz of churches, soars to Regensburg in 446ft via its southern spire. worshippers. Make time to inspect Bavaria. Its twin towers are among Its present form is from the the stained glass windows, one of a cluster of spires that poke above 14th and 15th centuries and which tells the history of the city. the streets of this picturesque city. countless stories are entwined In colourful Passau you’ll find Close to the river, construction of with its past, including those of a another cathedral dedicated to this landmark began in the late 13th mammoth bone hung over its main St. Stephen, a Baroque confection century but the cathedral did not door and how a German captain in white with green domes atop the fully open for another 250 years. refused orders to destroy the towers, which opened just six years Look out for the menacingcathedral when troops retreated in after its predecessor burned down looking gargoyles on the exterior, WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

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Left to right: A daytime aerial view of Vienna city from observation deck of St. Stephen’s Cathedral; an angel depicted in a stained-glass window at St. Martin’s Cathedral in Bratislava

a contrast to the laughing angel statue within. The cathedral is also home to some of Europe’s most revered stained glass and a famed boys’ choir. Not far upstream is another significant abbey, Weltenburg. Unlike Göttweig it sits right by the water, set around a highly scenic bend in the Danube Narrows which carve a course through the mountains. Founded in the 7th century (though the current buildings are much newer), its brewery is almost as old and has been operating ever since – guests on a Viking excursion get to try a brew, of course! This formidable structure fronts a beach in the stunning gorge but the biggest delight is the Baroque St. George’s Church. Beneath its flamboyant red roof and greentopped spire is a clever ceiling fresco that makes the flat surface appear domed. Whichever of the two Upper Danube Viking itineraries you choose, you are certain to discover some of Europe’s finest cathedrals and churches – guaranteed to lift your spirits. Viking’s Danube trips include the eight-day Danube Waltz, the eight-day Romantic Danube and the 15-day Grand European Tour. WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Passau A small town in the south-eastern corner of Germany, Paussau is oft-overlooked, but the ‘City of Three Rivers’ has grand historic origins

ith a history dating back to the 2nd century BC that encompasses an ancient Celtic tribe, then the Batavi people, a Roman colony, the diocese of Passau founded in 739, and more, the city is one of the oldest in Bavaria. Wealthy since Roman times, Passau prospered from the salt trade between nearby Bohemia (the modern-day Czech Republic), and Bad Reichenhall near Salzburg. During the Renaissance, the city was renowned as a centre of sword manufacture, and its picturesque location and Italianesque streets make it an ever-popular destination, renowned for its Gothic and Baroque architecture. Today’s visitors can enjoy colourful markets, cobbled streets populated with artisan boutiques, spectacular views of the Dreiflüssestadt (City of Three Rivers) confluence where the Danube meets the Inn from the

south and the Ilz from the north, and some impressive historic buildings and museums. With its centuries’ long association with religion, Passau is also a favoured pilgrimage site. From ancient fortresses to episcopal palaces, modern art to ancient glassware, there’s something for everyone in Passau.

Don’t miss

• Step inside Dom St. Stephan,

a huge sparkling white baroque cathedral with an impressive tiled roof and stunning ceiling. Its organ is the largest in Europe and has almost 18,000 pipes. • Stroll or cycle along the Innpromenade or take a picnic to the point where the three rivers meet. Each river is a different colour and their swirling confluence is an intriguing sight. • Climb the heavenly ladder of 321 pilgrimage steps to the Mariahilf Monastery and visit the chapel with its own interesting artefacts and impressive views. • Follow the painted cobbles to Artists’ Alley and check out work by local artists. Stop at the nearby Glasmuseum Passau with the world’s largest collection of European glass and visit the Alte Rathaus (Old Town Hall) which dates to the 14th century. • Visit the baroque St. Paul’s Church. Founded in 1050 it’s the oldest in Passau. Whilst it can’t boast the grandeur of St. Stephan’s, it holds a charm of its own.

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Left to right: The riverside Sanctuary Mariahilf in Passau; a Viking Longship sails into the historic city of Passau

Fast facts

• The population of Passau is only

around 50,000 people, of whom about 10,000 are students who attend the renowned University. • Renaissance metal smiths stamped their blades with the image of the Passau wolf. The popular practice of placing magical charms on swords to protect the wearers became known as ‘Passau art’. • In 1662, a devastating fire consumed most of the city's architecture. It was subsequently rebuilt in the Baroque style. • Passau is on the Danube bike trail which begins upstream and follows the river until it meets the Black Sea. • In early May residents attend the popular the Maypole festival (Maibaumkraxeln) in nearby Austria. Local men tar their hands and feet and attempt to race to the top of a very tall pole.

CITY GUIDE

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

Insider Tips

TRADITIONAL WEAR

A LIVING MUSEUM

FOR DOG-LOVERS

RISING TIDE

Popular local souvenirs include original Bavarian Lederhose or Dirndl (traditional 19th-century dress) or a Bavarian hat. Or you could buy a selection of pretzels and dampfnudel (sweet roll).

The Scharfrichterhaus hosts a political cabaret for German comedians. Translating as ‘executioner’s house’, the building dates from 1200 and includes a Viennese coffeehouse as well as a formal restaurant.

The quirky Dackelmuseum is home to a fine collection of dachshund memorabilia and a fun way to spend an afternoon. Expect to find an array of figurines, toys, pictures and books from around the world.

Because of its location on the three rivers, the town floods fairly regularly, most recently in 2013 when water levels reached 12.85 metres (42.2 ft). Historic high-water marks can be found on the Town Hall.

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This page: Marksburg Castle looks over the town of Braubach, in Germany

DISCOVERY

Fantastic FORTRESSES From fairy-tale castles to impenetrable fortresses, Oonagh Turner shines a light on the mesmerising buildings that you can visit on selected river and ocean journeys with Viking

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MATEUS PALACE, PORTUGAL

MARKSBURG CASTLE, GERMANY

The Portugal’s River of Gold trip includes an excursion to this beautiful palace and gardens.

Learn more about this landmark during an excursion on a Grand European Tour journey.

The house and gardens of Casa de Mateus are fine examples of baroque Portuguese design and thought to be the work of Italian-born architect Nicolau Nasoni. Built in the 18th Century, the exterior is made up of the manor, the enchanting winery and the chapel. Every intricacy of the building, it’s spires and surrounding lush greenery reflect elegantly onto the garden’s pond and make for the perfect photo opportunity. Inside, the library is home to one of the first illustrated editions of Luis Vaz de Camoes’ Os Lusiadas, Portugal’s most famous poem among other fascinating finds and treasures in the wine cellar.

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A romantic 13th-century castle perched high above the sleepy Germanic town of Braubach, Marksburg stuns tourists with its magical turrets and spiralling towers. The castle’s location right on the Rhine means visitors get spectacular views as the river bends and arches its way through sprawling German countryside. Its hilltop location has proved famously impenetrable since its initial erection in 1117. A tour takes you round its Gothic hall and what was once a torture chamber. Today, the castle belongs to the German Castles Association, which carefully preserves medieval fortifications for future generations.

Clockwise from above: Reichsburg Castle towers above the Moselle River, in Germany; Schönbrunn Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Austria’s most-visited tourist attractions; Mateus Palace, in Portugal, reflected in all its glory

PHOTOS: Â© ISTOCK

DISCOVERY

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CATHERINE PALACE, RUSSIA

This spectacularly ornate Rococo palace is located south of St. Petersburg and was once the summer residence of the Tsars, who left their mark in the form of signature Rastrelli design. The palace was created under Empresses Elizabeth and Catherine the Great during the 18th Century and was named after Peter the Great’s second wife, its history pulling in tourists from far and wide. It boasts fabulous grounds, but it’s the palace’s interiors that really shine, with the Great Hall, the Arabesque Hall and the world-famous Amber Room with its decorative amber, mirror and gold leaf panels that leaves visitors dazzled. Guests travelling on the Waterways of the Tsars journey have the opportunity to appreciate the baroque architecture of Catherine Palace.

CHRISTIANSBORG PALACE, DENMARK

REICHSBURG CASTLE, GERMANY

Take in the exceptional views over the city during an optional excursion to Christiansborg Palace on a Viking Homelands trip.

A visit to the ancient Reichsburg Castle is included on a cruise of the Moselle River with the Cities of Light itinerary.

Located in the heart of Denmark’s capital, Copenhagen, Christiansborg Palace enchants with its 12th-century opulence, royal reception rooms exhibiting precious tapestries, expansive palace grounds and public galleries. At 106 metres tall, the Palace has the highest tower in the city – narrowly topping the city hall tower – offering views of the city’s red rooftops that visitors can climb. Once home to monarchy, it is now the seat of the Danish Parliament and the house of the Queen’s Royal Reception rooms.

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The castle that towers over the town of Cochem on the Moselle River has had a colourful history. Originally built to collect tolls from passing ships around 1100, it changed hands between various monarchies before falling victim to French troops in 1689. Standing tall but ruined for centuries, it wasn’t until the late-19th Century that a wealthy Berliner snapped it up and restored it to its former glory. Take a tour to discover the 1,000 years of varying tastes that narrate its fascinating history and enjoy the expansive views.

DISCOVERY

SCHÖNBRUNN PALACE, AUSTRIA

BLARNEY CASTLE, IRELAND

Tour the magnificent home of the Hapsburg dynasty as an optional excursion whilst in Vienna during a Romantic Danube trip.

A sightseeing trip to Blarney Castle, near Cork, is an included excursion for guests on the Viking’s Northern Isles journey.

Once the main summer residence of the Hapsburg rulers, Vienna’s Schönbrunn Palace is a magnificently important architectural monument with a heritage spanning back over 300 years. Sometimes referred to as the Austrian Palace of Versailles, it has a certain renaissance feel in its lavishness and grandeur that is reminiscent of the Parisian palace. There is an impressive 435 acres of immaculate garden, the palace itself houses around 1,000 people, and its interiors are decorated with gold, mirrors and frescoes.

Cork’s Blarney Castle was built nearly 600 years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftans, Cormac MacCarthy and still today retains its reputation as one of Ireland’s greatest treasures and tourist attractions. At the heart of the castle is the historic Blarney stone. Legend has it that touching the Blarney Stone with your lips bestows you with the gift of eloquence. As for the grounds and gardens, Blarney has a certain aura of magic and folklore with its wishing steps and druid’s caves.

Clockwise, from far left: Christiansborg Palace in Copenhagen the façade of Catherine Palace in St. Petersburg

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PHOTOS: Â© ALAMY

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Clockwise from above: Malbork Castle, in Poland, has a religious past; Hiroshima Castle in Japan

HIROSHIMA CASTLE, JAPAN

Originally built at the turn of the 16th century by the powerful lord Mari Terumoto, Hiroshima Castle was once a hugely significant seat of power in Japan. It managed to avoid the demolition that other Japanese castles faced during the Meiji Restoration, but like the rest of Hiroshima, was destroyed by the eponymous bombing in 1945. The castle has since been rebuilt, and today stands as a stunning replica of the original, in traditional Japanese style and surrounded by colourful trees. It also houses a museum of Hiroshima’s pre-WWII history. Experience the beauty of Hiroshima Castle during a Far Eastern Horizons journey in Asia.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

MALBORK CASTLE, POLAND

Sitting on the banks of the Nogat River is the impressive red-bricked fortress of Malbork Castle. The second largest castle in the world measured by land area, Malbork is a pristine example of a toweirng medieval fortress, unpassable by enemies attempting to invade it over the centuries. Construction began in the 13th Century by the Teutonic Knights – a German Catholic religious order of crusaders – and the castle remained their headquarters for almost 150 years. Today it houses a castle museum with an array of informative resources and exhibitions and visitors come from far and wide to marvel and take photographs of the castle and its exquisite reflection in the Nogat River. Guests on the Baltic Jewels & the Midnight Sun trip can visit Malbork Castle for a guided tour. WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

WINTER wonderland Get your garden ready for the year ahead with award-winning garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes

Clockwise from top left: A frosty landscape view on a winter morning; Chimonanthus flowers; Paul Hervey-Brookes is an award-winning garden designer; snow-covered gardening tools

nce the dazzling flowers of summer and the rich colours of autumn have faded, it is easy to think the garden sleeps in a blanket of mist until March. But, that is certainly not the case and there are plenty of ways to keep outdoor interest alive during the lean months. First things first, enjoying our outdoor spaces in winter takes a little more planning but there is nothing like sitting by a fire – under a thick blanket with a mug of something hot – watching the silhouettes of trees and shrubs come to life in a way which is impossible at any

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other time of year. In winter, we are more aware of the magical silence of the garden and therefore appreciate birdsong and other sounds more fully. Extending our desire to be in the garden during these seemingly long months is the trick. It is an ideal time to take stock, look at the bare bones of the garden and think about projects – new beds, enlarging existing planting or making vegetable areas as an example. There are also a number of winter flowering plants that combine simple elegant flowers and heady scents which will draw you outside. For me, there is nothing like the winter honeysuckle, Lonicera ‘Winter Beauty’, a selfsupporting woody shrub form of honeysuckle which came to

us from China in the mid-18th century. Its miniature creamy white flowers pack quite a punch fragrance-wise. It can reach up to 1.6m so is an ideal shrub to place at the back of the border, and somehow takes us by surprise every winter. A single small stem cut for a vase and brought into a warm room can fill the space with its rich ‘of summer’ scents, with the flowers lasting up to two weeks in water. I like to couple this with winter flowering box, as both can be grown in a border or in large pots. Winter box, Sarcocca Hookeriana, comes from the mighty Himalayas, so at least we know it is hardy! Its narrow glossy foliage is evergreen, making it a very useful garden plant, but in December and

GARDENING

January it really comes into its own, covered in hundreds of jewel-like white highly fragrant flowers. It makes a wonderful potted specimen placed near the porch. If you have a little more space then Chimonanthus, the winter sweet, is a sure winner, a large lax shrub which doesn’t mind being cut for flowering stems to bring indoors. Chimonanthus was first cultivated but the Song Dynasty (960-1279) in China, where it was used to dress the hair of courtiers due to the fact it flowered over the traditional Chinese New Year period. It was also dried and used to scent clothes in cupboards. In fact, it is said that a piece of the plant fell from a clothes chest being transported from China to Japan and this is how, in the 1600s, the plant found its way to Japan. By 1699 it had become popular enough to be given to the Earl of Coventry, and so it reached mainstream European horticulture.

WINTER TASKS

If you fancy being a little more hands on, there are a few useful jobs worth doing at this time of year. Don’t let leaf litter go to waste, collect it now and store it in a pile if space allows or in bags without restricted airflow to mulch down for use next year. Once the leaves have fallen it means the sap inside the branches of wood trees and

WINTER VISTAS

For me, winter gardens are all about large landscapes and breathtaking views. If you live near one of these beautiful places why not take a stroll to blow away the cobwebs.

shrubs has stopped flowing. Essentially this dormant period is an ideal time to carry out the pruning of larger trees, and shrubs to bring them back into shape. If you have fruit trees, such as apples, pears and plums, now is an ideal time to open the canopy by removing twiggy growth which will allow air to circulate and therefore reduce the chances of fungus and pest issues next year. Traditionally, it is also a good time to dig the soil in vegetable gardens and raised vegetable beds to allow the frost in to break down the soil and kill any surface weed seedlings. I am in two minds about this technique. If you are making new vegetable beds then I would recommend it but, if the beds are in use and you don’t have an issue with weeds, then I would much rather sow a green manure to cover the soil, for example mustard, and stop the chances of wind and rain causing the soil to erode. Whatever you do, do give yourself a little time to just stop and spend a few minutes surrounded by nature in the garden, appreciating the changes in light and the small wonders that the season has to offer.

STOWE PARK, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Created by a multitude of famous gardeners, architects and artists, Stowe Park is a prime example of gardening on a grand scale, featuring landscaped splendour and formal gardens. nationaltrust.org.uk

PETWORTH PARK, SUSSEX

Landscaped by famed garden designer Capability Brown, the sweeping views and ornamental lake provide the perfect backdrop to the impressive 17th-century country house. nationaltrust.org.uk

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

RICHMOND PARK, LONDON

One of London’s eight Royal Parks, this area was once used for deer hunting by Charles I. Today, it is a nature reserve that is home to ancient trees and protected wildlife. royalparks.org.uk

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Linen shirt Pure, £90

Cashmere polo neck F & F Clothing, £79

Messenger bag Accessorize, £39

For women...

Sustainable padded coat Monsoon at Very, £125

Mix luxurious knitwear with softer prints for a lighter look

Winter Chic Beat the chill in style with a range of timeless winter classics that will complement your existing wardrobe

Wellington boots Regatta, £40 Cashmere beanie hat M&S Autograph, £35

Duffle coat (from a selection at Celtic & Co.)

Gold-plated hoops Oliver Bonas, £42

Quilted jacket Dilli Grey, £139

Corduroy trousers Phoebe Grace, £175

High top trainers M&S, £49.50

FA S H I O N

and for men...

A flash of tartan is a smart addition to a neutral outfit

Adventurer hat National Trust, £35 Printed scaft Oliver Bonas, £25

Padded shirt Joe Browns, £80

Glasses case Getting Personal, £59.99

Cashmere hoodie Figleaves, £160

Reversible coat and knitwear (from a selection at Celtic & Co.)

Leather gloves Accessorize, £22

Khaki chinos FatFace, £45 Padded gilet Burton, £35

Faux shearling bag Dune, £70

Ray Ban sunglasses Vision Express, £125 Boots Dune, £120

Tartan cape Joules, £129

Denim joggers White Stuff, £49.95

Chelsea boots Hunter x National Trust, £95

Knitwear (from a selection at Joe Browns)

This page: Hermaness National Nature Reserve, a clifftop setting and a refuge to seabirds Opposite: An old anchor makes a good spot for a seat

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Island Exploration Scottish television producer Fi Cotter Craig shares her memories of an enlightening trip to Shetland and Orkney

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

f you haven’t ever seen the midnight sun, what have you been doing every July and August? It’s the visual equivalent of being in St. Paul’s Cathedral with the best choir in the world performing Bach’s Mass in B Minor, or at La Scala watching multiple Pavarottis out-tenoring each other belting out Puccini’s Greatest Hits. Really, it’s that good. Any Viking cruise brings anticipation and excitement even before you’ve set foot on board, but there was one destination on our Into the Midnight Sun itinerary I wasn’t entirely sure about: Shetland. In general, I love an island, but thanks to two emotionally scarring

childhood experiences, I’ve never really had any warm feelings towards those forbidding and far-flung stepping stones in the seas between Scotland and Norway. In the 1960s there was no global warming, and therefore no summer in Scotland. Winter clothes were mandatory all year round and until I could choose my own clothes I was trapped inside itchy-scratchy Shetland sweaters. The itchy scratching was bad enough, but there was a far, far worse design flaw – the size of the neck opening. Always way too small. Putting them on was a struggle, but taking them off was torture, and I’m as sure as I can be that my ears are

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Clockwise from top left: Kirkwall’s St. Magnus, Britain’s northerly cathedral; wild Shetland ponies; an ancient burial stone; the Ring of Brodgar, majestic standing stones

about two inches further up my It’s architecturally and emotionally those childhood sweaters. So far so head than they would have been strong, no frills, muscular and Shetland, but the music however, without that daily tug of war. enduring – the perfect creation was a complete revelation. Turns Then there was Hamish. He was of form and function for a out that Lerwick is basically the a birthday present, a pony from the challenging environment. Suddenly Nashville of Scottish fiddle music; Shetland Islands, I was three, what the sweaters and Hamish’s on the High Street in Lerwick, a could be more perfect? couple of teenagers in Almost anything actually. Shetland is magnificent – the perfect jeans and t-shirts, not Hamish had more tricks but competing creation of form and function for a busking, up his sleeve for dealing with each other for fun – with under fives than a joyous pair of Duelling challenging environment Fiddles, toe-tapping a whole battalion of doesn’t do them justice. Everywhere Norland Nannies. He was also intransigence began to make sense. modern, melodic music with an more determined to do things his The treeless landscape is sparse and way than even Frank Sinatra. We spectacular, soaring cliffs, hundreds, ancient soul drifted out of shops, bars, pubs, open windows and never had a battle he didn’t win, possibly thousands of fabulous created an unforgettable soundtrack these dual formative experiences seabirds swirling through Spitfire taught me that Shetland should be skies, rising and falling on Atlantic to my Shetland experience. treated with caution. thermals, houses huddling into the I may have finally made friends I couldn’t have been more landscape and mile after mile of with Shetland, but with Orkney, wrong. Shetland is magnificent. fields dotted with the providers of it was love at first sight. The 48

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; SHUTTERSTOCK; CATHERINE COLLINS

Clockwise from above: Scalloway town and its picturesque harbour; Fi’s childhood pony, Hamish, is on the far right

polar opposite of its Presbyterian northern cousin, Orkney is a low-lying riot of wild flowers, wide open spaces and greenery. So lushly, verdantly green, the landscape is enhanced by the soft rolling curves of gentle hills. In July the fields were filled with softly waving ancient grains, bere barley should you be interested, which has been grown there since the original Vikings first paid a visit. I’m not sure that I have ever been more aware of being surrounded by thousands of years of history than I was during my brief time in Orkney. Within a few miles of each other are Skara Brae (a perfectly preserved Neolithic settlement built 5,000 years ago), the scuttled WWI German High

Seas Fleet rusting below the waters of Scapa Flow, the four WWII causeways known as the Churchill Barriers, and an exquisite chapel built by Italian prisoners of war. Meanwhile, the standing stones of the Ring of Brodgar made me stop in my tracks and weep at their simplicity and allmighty presence. There’s something unique about Orkney itself that helps you sense the humans who made and lived all this history – it’s not just a collection of old or even ancient things, everything carried something of its creators, tens, hundreds or thousands of years in a future they couldn’t possibly begin to imagine. And there’s more, at the very heart of Kirkwall, there is the

mighty St. Magnus, Britain’s most northerly cathedral. Whatever your relationship with God please pay a visit. Building began in 1137 and finished 300 years later. It is as humbling now as it must have been then. I got the sense that while Orkney is rightly proud of its history, it has its eyes very much on the future, and perhaps that self-reliance is the secret of its continuing evolution. Today, it leads the UK’s drive to a carbonfree future, and is developing clean energy technology that will harness the power of the wind and the surrounding seas. A 15-day 2022 British Isles Explorer trip from London to Bergen starts from £4,840pp. WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

The LONELINESS of the SOUL

We find out more about the Royal Academy exhibition showcasing the work of contemporary British artist, Tracey Emin, alongside pieces by the Norwegian expressionist, Edvard Munch Above: Gallery view of ‘Tracey Emin/Edvard Munch: The Loneliness of the Soul’, at the Royal Academy of Arts, London © David Parry

EDITH DEVANEY Contemporary Curator at the Royal Academy of Arts, Edith has originated and co-curated many headline exhibitions. In her capacity as Head of Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy of Arts, she has worked with many international contemporary artists on special projects.

KARI J. BRANDTZÆG Curator at MUNCH, the museum dedicated to Edvard Munch’s work, Kari has also worked as an art historian and curator at several international art institutions. As an art critic she contributed articles to publications at home and abroad, and was a doctoral fellow at the Freie Universität Berlin, the Norwegian Institute in St.Petersburg and the University of Oslo.

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e go behind the scenes with cocurators Kari Brandtzæg, of the MUNCH in Oslo, Norway, and Edith Devaney, from the Royal Academy of Arts, to find out more about the new exhibition. How did the idea for the exhibition come about?

Kari: When I started working at the MUNCH five years ago I knew my dream project would be a Tracey Emin exhibition. In 1997, I had been completely blown away by Emin’s solo exhibition ‘I Need Art Like I Need God’ and had spent many hours just looking and reading her texts on blankets, furniture and neons. In a strange way there was something very familiar about Tracey’s art, with the references to a Nordic melancholy, trolls, expressionism and Edvard Munch. They both create art from memories – from past experiences, and from loss, desire and loneliness.

How are the works displayed?

Edith: The exhibition is arranged across three galleries and it comprises, roughly, one third Munch works, both paintings and watercolours, and two thirds Emin works, which are mainly paintings, along with two neon works and five sculptures. Rather than works by Munch and Emin being paired, there is more of an organic fluidity between the two artists’ works, with the relationship between their works building as the show unfolds. How did Emin go about choosing the pieces to display alongside her own work?

Kari: At the time of his death in January 1944, Munch had already bequeathed all the art in his possession to the City of Oslo. This was the foundation of the Munch Museet which opened in 1963. For Tracey, this exhibition was an opportunity to satisfy a long-held wish to peruse Munch’s paintings, works on paper and private objects.

C U LT U R E Do you think Munch would be experimenting with new media if he was alive today?

Kari: Yes, I think Munch would have experimented. He bought his first Kodak camera in 1902, and loved to play with photography and film. He didn’t believe in photography as an artistic expression but he loved to photograph himself and today he is seen as the inventer of the selfie!

How does the show explore themes of grief, loss and longing?

Edith: There can be no doubt that the artists, Emin and Munch, were either describing or reliving a personal experience of grief or loss; or had a complete empathy of understanding of being in the grip of such overwhelming feelings. The psychological states which they describe are authentic and as a result, deeply engaging. Emin once said of Munch “I’ve been in love with this man since I was eighteen”. What do you think drew her to him?

Kari: Tracey became aware of Munch when looking for a book about Egon Schiele. It was the emotional expressiveness of Munch’s art that struck her. I believe that gave her the courage to express difficult feelings often related to painful incidents from her youth in Margate.

Munch’s work often highlighted his complex relationship with women, how

did this inspire Emin’s work?

Edith: On discovering Munch at an early age, Emin became a very keen student of his work and with the passage of time she has built a very comprehensive knowledge of his oeuvre, his life and his impulses. She has traced his depiction of women throughout his career and is aware that many of his portrayals of women are linked to his own experiences and chart his emotional responses. Losing his mother to illness when he was still a young child, then a few years later, a sister to whom he was particularly close, all find expression in his work, as do his series of doomed romantic relationships with women. Interestingly, Emin notes that Munch’s depictions of women are respectful, and although they are, at times, illustrating anguished emotions, they do so in a way that carefully navigates both judgment and voyeurism. As a female artist, Emin’s approach is different and her presence implicit in the subject of her works. But, like Munch she does not shy away from a deep interrogation of the female inner life. Are these two artists are linked by a sense of fearlessness?

Edith: There is much in common between Emin and Munch and one of the most important similarities is their fearlessness or bravery. To display one’s own emotions, to describe the pain suffered as a result of an experience, is an unbelievably difficult and courageous thing to do. Both are true to themselves

and have disregarded most passing artistic trends and norms of their time to present what is important to them. Emin both gives and reveals so much of herself in her work. To lay oneself bare like that takes a great deal of courage and is something which Munch would have applauded. How do you think Munch would have perceived this show?

Kari: I think Munch would have been proud to know that he is still relevant and inspires artists all over the world, especially female artists like Tracey Emin. It’s about our modern soul, how we are alone from cradle to grave, and about our desires and sorrows along the way.

The show runs from 7th December 2020 until 28th February 2021, at the Royal Academy of Arts, London, and is organised in partnership with MUNCH, Oslo. www.royalacademy.org.uk

Left: Tracey Emin in front of This is life without you – You made me Feel Like This, 2018, on display at the Royal Academy of Arts, London. Loan courtesy of Collection Majudia © Tracey Emin. All rights reserved, DACS 2020. Photo: © David Parry.

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Bergen Discover the colourful settlement of the ancient Norwegian city of Bergen, framed by an enchanting mountainous landscape

he charming city of Bergen looks out onto the tumbling archipelagos of land that fall away into the North Sea, making it the ultimate stepping-stone from which to discover the icy fjords and the Arctic beyond. With its coloured houses casting a pristine reflection onto the calm waters of the North Sea as it meanders inland, and with a mystical mountainous backdrop, the second largest of Norway’s cities is a spectacle to behold in itself. Settled originally by the Vikings, the city went on to flourish and was once a centre of the Hanseatic League’s trading empire. For four centuries, merchants worked on the Bryggen wharf. Today the buildings that remain are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Don’t miss

• An exciting trip up the Fløibanen Funicular takes you high above the rooftops, up to Mt. Fløien. Here you will rewarded with panoramic views of Bryggen and the harbour

and you will gain access to a network of hiking trails. • For history aficionados, the Hanseatic Museum provides a comprehensive insight into medieval life in Bergen when the Hanseatic League was the centre of life in the city. The museum is located in a beautiful building, once owned by a merchant. • A spectacular example of modern Norwegian architecture is Grieg Hall, designed and dedicated to the Bergen-born composer with a spectacular exterior that takes inspiration from the surrounding landscape and from some of his own compositions. • Bergen has a trio of beautiful old churches that serve as reminders of the city’s heritage and are uniquely Arctic in design: Domkirken, Bergen Cathedral, and Korskirken. • Bergenhus Fortress is one of the oldest and best-preserved of Norway’s castles, and harks back to the 13th century, when it served as a royal residence. Many of Bergen’s buildings date back to the 1240s, and one excavation has revealed structures from 1100, remnants of the Viking Age. Discover the gardens, the neighbouring 13th century tour with splendid harbour views, and the spectacular 13th-century Håkon’s Hall – the largest surviving medieval secular building in Norway. It was once the banqueting hall of King Håkon IV, one of the most important kings in Norway’s history, and is now a museum and still in use for events.

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Clockwise, from above: Bergen is famed for its colourful houses and mountainous scenery; Fløibanen funicular offers great views over the city of Bergen

Fast Facts

• The original name for Bergen

was Bjørgvin, which dates back to when it was a Viking trading city. In Icelandic, the city is still given this old Viking title. • Bergen stood as Norway’s capital during the 13th Century after its setting meant it was the perfect location for trade, displacing Trondheim as the kingdom’s capital. • Bergen locals have developed their own regional dialect and it is one of the most difficult for foreigners and other Norwegians to tap into. Often described as ‘throaty’, this version of Norwegian differs with a guttural ‘r’ sound and various colloquialisms. • Today the city has a population of around 283,000, many of whom are students who attend the various universities dotted around the city.

CITY GUIDE

Insider Tips

ESCAPE TO THE WILD

STREET ART

HERITAGE HOTSPOT

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Head out of the city centre to Hardangerfjord, located near Bergen and known for its stunning Vøringsfossen waterfall and the 78-square mile Folgefonna glacier, the third largest on Norway’s mainland.

Although Bergen is fantastically walkable, try renting a city bike or electric scooter and take in the city’s thriving art scene. Works by Bergen’s answer to Banksy, Dolk, can be spotted if you keep your eyes peeled.

Troldhaugen was the home of Nina and Edvard Grieg for 22 years, and provides a cultural narrative to the history of Bergen. The villa on the outskirts of Bergen is where Grieg composed some of his famous works.

The outdoor Fish Market in the middle of the city is a timeless place where market traders show off their produce. Food stalls offer street food, and a glass of aquavit (Scandinavian spirit) is a delicious treat.

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My ARCTIC

Jørn Henriksen, Director of Expedition Operations at Viking Expeditions, discusses his relationship with the Arctic – the place he calls ‘home’ Clockwise, from above: Jørn Henriksen; the Arctic landscape; a polar bear with her three cubs spotted by Jørn at Wilhelmøya in Svalbard; Jørn’s great grandfather, Gustav Johannes, is the little boy in the upper left, alongside a group of Dutch tourists in Gibostad, North Norway, in 1893

’m Norwegian, born and bred in the city of TromsØ. Whilst many people consider the Arctic a romantic area – full of mysticism, legends and struggles in harsh conditions, expressed by phenomena like the Northern Lights, Santa Claus and stories about explorers attempting to reach an extremity – I call the Arctic home. It is the foundation both for my work and for my family. I have previously headed many expeditions across the

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Arctic throughout my career, and it is a real privilege to be part of the Viking Expeditions team. My family is embedded in the Arctic, and via a branch on my fathers side, rooted in the indigenous Sámi people. The Sámi populate Fenno-Scandinavia (the northern part of Norway, Finland and Sweden) and they are perhaps best known for being reindeer herders. My great grandfather was Sámi, but during his lifetime his community was under an immense, state-driven pressure to assimilate

and become ‘Norwegian’. As a result, he was given the name Henriksen instead of taking the family name of Omma. This part of my family history was ‘watered out’ and our Sámi identity became more distant with each passing generation. However, I’m immensely proud of my ancestors – they were Arctic experts, living in harmony with nature and exercising their ancient traditions, whilst the rest of the world was speeding into the Industrial Revolution.

DISCOVERY

SÁMI: A TRADITIONAL WAY OF LIFE

The Sámi are an indigenous people inhabiting Sápmi, which encompasses northern parts of Finland, Sweden, Norway and the Kola Peninsula of Russia. Descended from nomadic groups that once roamed northern Scandinavia, the Sámi are known for their close relationship with the natural world, in which reindeer herding, fishing and farming are all important traditional ways of life. Today, Sámi parliaments protect and promote the cultural autonomy and political interests of the Sámi at an international level.

If there is one thing that stands out for me about the Arctic, it must be the midnight sun and the endless days of summer, when I can wander into nature without thinking of it getting dark. I also love the pitchblack mid-winter days when the sun is below the horizon, even at noon, and the aurora borealis dance across the sky in the evening. These seasonal variations really dictate how I spend my spare time. They also make it a fantastic place to visit, both in summer and winter. I love the treeless tundra, featuring colourful high-alpine flora – a place that is so robust, yet subtle and delicate at the same time. I have been so lucky to spend parts of my professional life as an expedition leader in what I call ‘The High Arctic’ – areas between 74° and 81° North. The archipelago of Svalbard and the north-eastern part of Greenland have really been etched into my mind. As opposed to the Arctic part of the Norwegian

mainland, these are areas where polar bears, muskox, polar wolves, arctic fox and the all-white version of peregrine falcon roam. These are extreme places where travelling in nature requires particular skills, places where you quickly learn that, if you attempt to defy nature, you may put your life in danger. For many inhabitants of

the Arctic, being in the wilderness is second nature and nothing to talk about. However, I believe that my appreciation of the fact that I come from a place that is inhospitable to many is something I have been able to harness in my choice of profession. Above all, I love seeing visitors mesmerised by the immense beauty of the Arctic. WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

ITINERARY

Antarctic frontier This adventure takes you to the Antarctic peninsula, where towering glaciers and immense icebergs provide the backdrop for a once-in-a-lifetime wildlife viewing opportunity DAY 1 / BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA Arriving into the Argentinian capital, you’ll check into your hotel and meet your fellow guests at an expedition briefing. If time permits, you may want to explore the city’s culture – catch live tango performed in the city’s cobbled backstreets, or relax with a glass of Argentinian red wine.

DAY 2 / USHUAIA, ARGENTINA Departing via Argentina’s southernmost tip and the world’s southernmost city, you’ll embark and get a feel for your expedition team. As you leave, take in the views of the sub-Antarctic forests as and snow-capped mountains as they fade from view.

DAY 3 / CRUISE DRAKE PASSAGE Named after the discoverer Sir Francis Drake, this route takes you into the Antarctic Convergence, with your vessel hurtling through the freezing gin clear waters. It’s here you might spot your first iceberg up close. Explore the ship and take advantage of the many onboard dining options.

seals and playful penguins on exposed land and rocky beaches, and marvel at the wonders of nature from the comforts of the ship.

DAY 11 / CRUISE DRAKE PASSAGE Study Antarctica further with onboard lectures and presentations from biologists and scientists who have partnered up with Viking, enjoy an array of cuisines, or relax in The Nordic Spa.

DAY 12 / SCENIC CRUISING: CAPE HORN Sail to the legendary Cape Horn, the headland of Chile’s Tierra del Fuego archipelago straddling the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. An opportunity to get your camera out, the magnificent cape is a milestone reserved for experienced sailors who have succeeded in rounding it.

DAY 13 / USHUAIA, ARGENTINA

DAY 4-10 / EXPLORE ANTARCTICA

Heading back to the ‘end of the earth’ suitably marks the end of your cruise as you dock in Ushaia. Depart by charter flight to Buenos Aires and continue your journey home or explore more with a post-cruise land extension package.

Explore the ‘Last Continent’ and soak up the majestic beauty of this isolated corner of the globe. Keep an eye out for whales in their natural habitat, catch sleepy

The 13-day 2022 Antarctic Explorer cruise starts from £12,995pp.

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Above: The mighty mountains of Antarctica provide the perfect backdrop for a polar sunset

Pre-book online Until 28 February 2021 Friends of the RA go free

Supported by

Exhibition organised by MUNCH, Oslo, Norway in partnership with the Royal Academy of Arts. Tracey Emin, Every part of me Kept Loving You, 2018 (detail). Acrylic on canvas, 205.7 x 279.5 cm. Private collection, UK © Tracey Emin. All rights reserved, DACS 2020. Edvard Munch, Crouching Nude, 1917–1919 (detail). Oil on canvas, 70 x 90 cm. Munchmuseet.

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OCEANS

The

ARCTIC OCEAN The coldest and northernmost of the world’s seas, the Arctic Ocean enchants with majestic icebergs and mystical frozen waters

he planet’s northernmost body of water, the Arctic Ocean is characterised by floating icebergs, otherworldly icy landscapes and freezing temperatures. A seemingly stark and inhospitable part of the world, this magical ocean is home to an array of wildlife and is of fundamental importance to the rest of the planet. This somewhat bleak and remote region plays a crucial role in keeping the world’s climate in balance, controlling the temperature and weather systems across the world. The Arctic consists mainly of the Arctic Ocean, as well as portions of land belonging to Canada, Greenland, Russia, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Iceland and the US. The North Pole is right at its heart, permanently covered in sea ice and located 430 miles north of the northern tip of Greenland.

THE HISTORY

An enduring fascination with the Arctic has driven explorers to the North Pole for decades, with man attempting to take on nature and reach the top of the world, risking

life and limb in doing so. Records suggest that the Arctic Ocean was first explored around 325BC, when the ancient Greek sailor Pytheas reached a frozen sea while trying to find the source of tin metal. Ever since, stories have regaled of pioneers, adventurers and explorers attempting to reach polar regions, with European and American explorers particularly engaged in the 19th and 20th centuries. Some intrepid explorers – John Cabot, Henry Hudson and James Cook to name a few – attempted to navigate the frozen tundra in search of the Northwest Passage, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, whilst Wally Herbert became the first confirmed person to walk to the Pole as part of an incredible 3,800-mile crossing.

THE POPULATION

Despite its freezing and barren landscape, the Arctic is home to around four million people, including indigenous groups with rich cultures that have thrived there for nearly 30,000 years. These include Inuit of North America, the Sami of Northern Europe and the

Yakuts of Siberia who have long inhabited this part of the world and successfully so. Visitors to the Arctic have the opportunity to experience life in remote communities based around historic Viking and Inuit settlements. There are many cultural activities to discover, such as watching locals performing throat singing – a traditional type of music performed amongst the Inuit communities – and a wide range of Indigenous art on offer at local galleries.

Opposite: Spotting polar bears is one of the highlights of a trip to the Arctic

THE WILDLIFE

Arctic wildlife has evolved over thousands of years to cope with the extreme polar temperatures. Diving down into the thick sea ice, much of the Arctic Ocean is pitch black, closed off from sunlight by ice cover, but photographers diving further with equipment and lights are able to expose the reality of wildlife in the Arctic, which is rich and varied. At the bottom of the food chain in the dark Arctic depths lurks plankton – a food group that makes up the base of the WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Clockwise, from top left: An aerial view of icebergs in Greenland; a traditional building in Barentsburg, Svalbard, Greenland; reindeer herding is a way of life for many communities; seals are a common sight in Arctic waters; a Humpback whale tail fin in the Arctic Ocean; a traditional summer house of the Yakuts; the Arctic fox is hidden amongst the snowy landscape; wooden drinking cups crafted by Sรกmi artisans in northern Scandinavia

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OCEANS

Arctic food chain and consists of organisms like algae and bacteria, which in turn feeds creatures as large as bowhead whales. The larger creatures who have evolved to live in these remote climes include polar bears – with paddle-like paws and thick white fur that disguises them against a snowy backdrop. Walruses too can be found here, with large tusks that help propel their vast bodies along the ice. Other creatures you might find roaming the landscape include Arctic foxes, seals, orcas and reindeer, while the narwhal is one fascinating species found only in the northern hemisphere, often referred to as the ‘unicorn of the sea’ because of its straight tusk

projecting from its head that can grow to over 3 metres in length.

CLIMATE WARMING

Though it is the smallest of the world’s oceans, spanning a meagre 6.1 million square miles, the Arctic Ocean is one of the most significant areas on our planet. The ice of the Arctic contains around 10 percent of the world’s fresh water, and it’s the white frozen land mass reflected under sunlight that helps keep the region cool, and in turn the seasons and weather systems across the world. The waters are warming faster than anywhere else on Earth, and scientists are constantly looking to make sense of why this is, and how warming sea temperatures will

change the Arctic Ocean waters and the world. Studies have predicted all sorts of outcomes, from colder and more extreme winters to one 2016 study even predicting that ships would be able to sail through open water to the North Pole by 2040. The loss of ice and changes in weather caused by climate change are raising new challenges for wildlife – forcing animals that rely on ice, like polar bears and seals, to traverse the landscape in search of food. Climate change in the Arctic also raises important questions for those who live there, with local populations seeking new ways of living in harmony with their changing environment.

Above: Orca whales patrol the Arctic waters hunting for food

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Wine list

Wine expert Bartholomew Broadbent recalls some early travel adventures, and his discovery of the wine regions flanking the Danube

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t the age of seven I was Throwing stones in the river warm pool like hot springs, and a left alone with my sister, provided entertainment for a while, regular swimming pool and shallow Emma, three years my but the land-locked country, which lounging pool. And it had a lot elder, in Budapest, for did not allow its citizens to travel of Hungarians who didn’t speak a an entire day – from before dawn beyond borders at that time, had word of English. I spent the better until after dusk. My parents’ to provide some other form of part of the day enjoying splashing destination was, back around in these pools. As great a capital as Budapest is, with Dinner was another then, a four-hour drive each way at the best of its spectacular architecture and history, memory of my adventures times. So why would Budapest. My sister and Hungary is better known for its wines in parents abandon their I dined alone in the very pre-pubescent children posh and romantic hotel early in the morning, leaving them water-based experience beyond restaurant. We had goulash, the to fend for themselves, until long the banks of the Danube. We were traditional Hungarian dish, heavily after dinner? And what did we do fortunate that the hotel was next to meaty and usually spiced with with ourselves all day? a massive water park. It had a saltpaprika, followed by wonderful We were staying in a hotel filled pool in which you could float desserts including delicious across the street from the Danube. as if in the Dead Sea, a bubbling palacsinta, krémes and dobos torta.

DISCOVERY

We were serenaded by musicians, a man with a violin who probably didn’t expect a tip from us, and his accompanists. Nobody spoke any English. If my parents had never returned from their day-long excursion to the Tokaji wine district, perhaps I would be speaking Hungarian today! Tokaji was the reason for their absence, and I have grown to understand their reasons for leaving. Thinking we’d be bored by the long journey there, they deserted us to go on a pilgrimage to discover the region known for making one of the most legendary wines in the world.

As great a capital as Budapest is, with its spectacular architecture and history, Hungary is better known for its excellent array of wines. For those of you my age, or senior, you will doubtless remember the very successful Hungarian wine called Bull’s Blood or Egri Bikavér. It got a bad name because it became so commercially successful but, actually, red wines from Hungary can be very fine indeed. It produces wonderful dry white wines too, especially from the Furmint grape. Although it is only the famous dessert wine, Tokaji, made from the Aszú grape, which could possibly entice a couple to

risk the abandonment of their children to the communist regime. Tokaji produces one of the most exquisite sweet wines in the world, to rival the very greatest Trockenbeerenauslese wines from Germany and the best Sauternes from Bordeaux. These Tokaji wines vary in sweetness levels, resulting from shrivelled grapes, the ultimate being the Essencia which is made from Aszú grapes which can only be described as being beyond raisins in ripeness. They are hung and very slowly allowed to drip any remaining juices. The Hungarian wine regions await discovery and are oft

Above: The aerial skyline view of Budapest at sunrise, with Szechenyi Chain Bridge, Matthias Church and the Parliament of Hungary

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DISCOVERY

overshadowed by their European neighbours, but they are by no means the only wine regions to be discovered floating down the Danube. The Danube is the second longest river in Europe. It flows out into the Black Sea after springing to life west of Munich in Germany, flowing lazily eastward through nine other countries; Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria, Moldova and Ukraine, all of which are known for their winemaking, and many of which have vineyards based on the riverbanks. Little did I know at the age of seven that I would be writing fifty years later about my experiences on the Danube for Viking’s Explore In February of 2021, my sister, impossible, in a short article, to More magazine and hosting Wine Lady Emma Arbuthnot, Chief Wednesdays, the popular Viking.TV articulate the incredible diversity Magistrate Judge of England and of the wines grown along the great series, in which we feature the Wales, is being elevated to the river Danube, and in the countries lovely wines of Erich Machherndl High Court. I wonder what she through which it meanders. They in Wachau, in our third episode. would say to parents who And perhaps this The Hungarian wine regions await abandoned their children childhood experience a day, leaving them the start of my interest discovery and are oft overshadowed by for alone, in a hostile foreign in this country and its their European neighbours country? No doubt she’d production. Austria’s be most disapproving. Wachau can claim the But one glass of Tokaji Aszú are mostly unknown regions, even crown, along with Tokaji, as the Essencia would make any great within the wine trade, but await other best-known wine region wine-lover more understanding of discovery for anyone with a wine within all the wine producing my parents’ decision back then. It interest and fortunate enough to countries through which the was a pilgrimage of sorts. take a cruise along the river. Danube flows. Sadly it would be

Clockwise, from top right: Hungary’s expansive vineyards; Bartholomew Broadbent enjoys a Hungarian red; a bottle of Tokaji from the Tokaji wine district in Hungary; winding rows of vineyards in Wachau valley

WINTER 2020/21 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Viking BOOK CLUB Join London-based bookshop Heywood Hill, whose experts curate the libraries on board Viking ships, as they recommend a variety of top non-fiction choices

JOIN OUR BOOK CLUB

www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/why-viking/community/book-club

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BOOK CLUB

THE MAKING OF MODERN BRITAIN BY ANDREW MARR

VIENNA. PORTRAIT OF A CITY BY CHRISTIAN BRANDSTATTER

Pan Macmillan

Taschen

Those looking to absorb the history of Britain should carry Marr’s fantastic book with them as a handbook. Taking you through the eras, from the death of Queen Victoria that signalled the end of an empire, to the Second World War, Marr weaves cultural and sociological anecdotes with hard-hitting historical facts. Far from being intimidating, the book is written in an approachable way and provides an accessible deconstruction of English history. Based on the memorable BBC documentary series of the same name, the book contains a huge amount of wide-ranging research, so you’re bound to pick up a new understanding of historical events, along with some fabulously fun facts along the way. BEETHOVEN: A LIFE IN NINE PIECES BY LAURA TUNBRIDGE Penguin Books

An enlightening and engaging biography of German-born Ludwig van Beethoven, published to coincide with the 250th-year anniversary of his birth. Tunbridge eloquently presents the musician’s life through nine different compositions – each unearthing stories, anecdotes and aspects of Beethoven’s life and character, as well as the places where he lived. Tunbridge’s picks span all phases of Beethoven’s compositional career, from his early success in Vienna to the creation of the single-movement composition, Grosse Fuge.

A beautiful testament to the Austrian capital’s illustrious history. What was once the beating heart of the Austro-Hungarian empire, now a thriving cosmopolitan city, Vienna has changed hands many times, and has always reflected the cultural climate of Europe along the way. This book is a collection of photography from the last 175 years, charting this evolution from imperial centre to modern metropolis. The photographs display everything from Vienna’s genteel coffee house culture to its sensational worldclass arts and music scene which produced the likes of Johann Strauss and Egon Schiele. A must-read for anyone with the city on their bucket-list. THE NORDIC COOKBOOK BY MAGNUS NILLSON Phaidon

A look at the rich culinary pickings of the Nordic region, with 700 recipes, some well-known, some less so, selected and curated by the notable Swedish chef, Magnus Nilsson. The book is richly illustrated with personal photography from Nilsson and looks in depth at special ingredients famed throughout the Nordic region, telling a story of the area’s culinary history. Taking inspiration from the chef’s own travels around Denmark, the Faroe Islands, Finland, Greenland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden, the book is an inspiring and wanderlustinducing piece of work.

THE FRENCH REVOLUTION BY MICHEL ROUX JUNIOR Orion Books

As one of the best-known French chefs living on UK shores, and armed with his twostar Michelin star restaurant in London, Michel Roux Jr is wellplaced to write about French cooking. Far from being a history book, the author takes you on a tour, visiting classic French dishes entwined in his own French upbringing, plus modern dishes that do away with the complicated cooking techniques often associated with French cooking. Instead, he opts for recipes that delight the palate without any difficulty. Look out for favourites including a delicate pea tart with filo pastry, a healthy hollandaise and a poulet basquaise (chicken stew) – all coming together for a taste of France. WHITE HEAT: A HISTORY OF BRITAIN IN THE SWINGING SIXTIES BY DOMINIC SANDBROOK Abacus

First coined under the administration of Prime Minister Harold Wilson, the term ‘White Heat’ alludes to the spirit of society during the 1960s, when England was undergoing monumental cultural and social change. From stories of Soho to tragedy in Northern Ireland, from designer Mary Quant and musician Mick Jagger to the drama of the football World Cup, this book unravels the threads that created an incredible period in Britain’s history. Informative, intelligent and highly readable, the book is a compelling social history.

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Viking

T R AV E L

ON LOCATION with Karine Executive Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen, writing from home, takes the opportunity to recall her top tips for visitors to St. Petersburg

How long did you live in St. Petersburg? I lived in the city for about 10 years, on and off.

go to the Shamrock Pub, owned by my friends, which is just across the street and a favourite haunt of ballet dancers.

What do you love most about the city? I love St. Petersburg for its people. They are so kind and incredibly cultured. Most Russian people also are very friendly and hospitable and will make you feel welcome.

Which museums and galleries stand out for you? St. Petersburg is my top art destination as it has so much choice. I am particularly impressed by the storage facilities at The Hermitage. Viking guests can take a Privileged Access:

What are your favourite local dishes to eat? I love Russian food, and one of my favourite dishes is borscht. I recommend trying it cold as well. What do you like to do in the evenings? I go to the Mariinsky Theatre, especially if my good friend Xander is performing. He was the first British dancer to sign with the Mariinsky and he rose quickly to become a soloist, which was so well deserved. Afterwards, I like to 68

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COLUMN The Hermitage Behind Closed Doors guided tour for exclusive access to these secured vaults to see the many treasures within. My talisman and the piece of jewellery I have worn for the past 20 years is a gold Scythian stag, a replica from the Gold Room, and a symbol of The Hermitage. Do you have a favourite place to walk in the city? I love the Field of Mars – it is peaceful and symbolic of everything that the city of has had to live through. An eternal flame burns in the centre, commemorating the victims of the 1917 Russian Revolution. What is your top tip for the first-time visitor? I would take a canal trip. There are around 100 canals and tributaries in the city, and over 800 bridges. As many of the grandest buildings are situated along the banks of the canals, it is the best way to see the city! Visit Viking.TV for many more interviews and films about Russia.

BORSCHT Serves 4 INGREDIENTS:

• 1.4 l (3 pints) chicken stock • 3 potatoes, peeled and chopped • ½ a green cabbage, very finely shredded • 3 tbsp olive oil • 3 medium beetroots, peeled and chopped • 1 red onion, finely chopped • 3 tbsp tomato purée • 2 bay leaves • 1 lemon • 3 tbsp chopped dill TO GARNISH:

55g (2 oz) sour cream 1 Heat the stock in a large pot and add the potatoes. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 15 to 20 minutes until tender. Add the sliced cabbage and cook for another five minutes. 2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan and gently sauté the beetroot and red onion until soft, then stir in the tomato purée. 3 Transfer the contents of the pan into the stock pot and stir through, adding the bay leaves, a good squeeze of lemon juice and two tablespoons of the chopped dill. Season well with salt and pepper to taste and simmer for a further 15 minutes. Serve garnished with sour cream and the remaining dill.

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The RIVER DANUBE An essential lifeline for transport and trade across central Europe, this river has also provided the inspiration for waltzes, poetry and paintings

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RIVERS

Left: A sunset view of the Danube River from the county of Pest, in central Hungary

he River Danube has halted armies, divided countries and inspired poets and composers. Capital cities have grown up along its banks: Vienna; Bratislava; Belgrade; and Budapest. In addition, there are countless riverside towns and villages to explore, dominated by ancient castles and majestic abbeys, each concealing secrets and legends from centuries past. The Danube flows 2,870km through seven countries. Its journey takes it from a tiny spring in Germany’s Black Forest through the wooded hills of Bavaria, across the lush countryside of Austria’s Wachau Valley, famed for its wines, and beyond Vienna, onto the edge of the Hungarian steppes. It clips the southern spur of the semicircular Carpathian mountain range, forcing its way through the rock to create the dramatic Iron Gates Gorge on the border between Serbia and Romania, eventually broadening as it forks out into three arms that make up the delta, on the border between Romania and Ukraine. More than just a transport route, the Danube has created a dividing line between empires across history. The river once defined the northern boundary of the Roman Empire, creating a natural barrier against a world that the Romans considered to be hostile and barbarian. Many of the ancient fortifications along the banks date back to Roman times, and several of the region’s capital cities, not least Vienna,

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Budapest and Belgrade, have grown from Roman strongholds. By the middle Ages, the Danube was a vital transport artery for trade between Europe, Greece and India. The river was also a route used by the Crusaders, while the Ottomans advanced along its banks on their march into Central Europe. Navigating the waterway was, however, difficult and in the early days, boats had no means of sailing upstream. Wooden vessels would carry goods downstream and once they had reached their destination and discharged their cargo, would be broken up. Later, wares were hauled upstream by horses. Steam power arrived in the early 19th century and the first scheduled service for passengers began in 1830, operating between Vienna and Budapest. The company in charge of those early boats, the Donau-DampfschiffahrtsGeselleschaft (DDSG) rapidly became the world’s most powerful inland navigation company, owning more than 200 steamships and some 750 barges. Parts of the Danube were closed to navigation as Europe descended into conflict in the early 20th century. Following the Second World War, as the continent was divided into East and West, passenger shipping ended abruptly at Vienna, the frontier of the then

routes. Pleasure cruising really took off in the 1970s, the old paddle wheelers steadily being replaced by more sophisticated ships which offered service levels similar to those of oceangoing ships. River tourism had already been growing for a decade since

More than just a transport route, the Danube has created a dividing line between empires across history free world. The river remained open to commercial shipping throughout the Cold War but it was only since the breakup of the Soviet Union that river tourism into the former Eastern Bloc really developed. This was further hindered by the Balkans conflict in 1999, when bridges across the river were damaged. In 2002, however, the Danube was declared open for navigation and since then has become one of Europe’s most popular cruising 72

the opening of the Main-Danube Canal in 1992, a magnificent feat of engineering that connected the Rhine, the Main and the Danube via a 170km waterway that meant ships could cross Europe from the North Sea to the Black Sea. There’s more to the Danube than Strauss waltzes. Cruises typically begin at Passau, a beautiful city boasting the distinctive feature of Europe’s largest pipe organ in St. Stephan’s Cathedral.

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The Wachau Valley, the winegrowing district of Lower Austria, is one of the Danube’s most beautiful stretches, vineyards lining the banks and riverside villages guarded by ruined castles. At Melk, the majestic ochre-coloured Benedictine Abbey is perched on a wooded hillside. Close by, the riverside village of Dürnstein is one of the most picturesque in the area; the craggy remains of a castle in which Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in the 12th century gaze down on a petty hamlet dominated by a blue, Baroque church tower, perched on the riverbank like a giant pepperpot. Vienna is, of course, a highlight of any Danube voyage. Although it’s the home of Strauss waltzes, grand coffee houses, world-class opera, dancing Lipizzaner horses and some of the world’s finest baroque palaces, Vienna is also making a name for itself as an

RIVERS

emerging fashion and gastronomic centre. The city has a lively cultural scene, with many fine museums clustered together in the contemporary MuseumsQuartier, close to the centre. Vienna is as beautiful and romantic in winter, when the scent of cinnamon and mulled wine wafts through the snow-covered Advent markets, as it is in summer, when locals bask in the sunshine sipping Aperol Spritz and adopting an almost southern European approach to life. Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, is dominated by a squat, 16th century castle, the leafy squares and backstreets below lined with stunning Baroque palaces. Budapest, meanwhile, is one of the most beautifully situated riverside capitals, as the Danube flows right through the city centre, dividing Buda from Pest. Graceful buildings line the Pest bank, not least the fairytale, neo-gothic Parliament Building, while the

old ramparts and the turreted Fishermenâ€™s Bastion gaze down from a steep hill on the Buda side of the river. At night, the bridges are festooned with lights, creating a magical atmosphere. Many cruises end here but a voyage further east is almost like stepping back into the Middle Ages in places. Beyond Budapest, near Kalocsa, the fields are scarlet with peppers which are grown here to create the famous Hungarian paprika. Here, working riders from the Puszta region perform whip-cracking displays of daring horsemanship. The river flows on through Belgrade, capital of Serbia, where an imposing orthodox cathedral is set in the grounds of the spectacular Kalmegdan Fortress, a cluster of Turkish baths, Muslim tombs and today, museums, all surrounded by 19th century parkland. Beyond here, the Danube forces it way through the Iron Gates Gorge, an

awe-inspiring sight, sheer-sided limestone cliffs towering over the river as it winds its way. Making its way east, Romania on one bank and Bulgaria on the other, the river flows on through rolling scenes of bucolic countryside, the fields brilliant with yellow sunflowers in summer and golden wheat in autumn, tiny farming hamlets seemingly untouched by the 21st century, a fascinating insight into another world entirely.

Clockwise, from top left: A panoramic view of Budapest in the summer; the vineyards of the Wachau valley which produce a spectacular annual grape harvest; a view of the Iron Gates, forming part of the boundary between Serbia and Romania

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T R AV E L

My VENICE

Wendy Atkin-Smith, Viking’s UK Managing Director, shares her love for one of the most unique cities in the world

their whole lives. My favorite area is Cannaregio, the home of the famous church of Madonna dell’Orto, the Jewish Ghetto and some of the best local restaurants in the entire city. We’ve been visiting the same two restaurants for much of the time we’ve been travelling to Venice. The menus haven’t changed a great deal; they still serve the same Venetian specialities and whatever is in season because that’s what their loyal local customers want to eat. And, the same families run them still. The kids who started off helping out as waiters may now have families of their own but they’re still there working alongside their parents. There is always a warm welcome when we return too, even if it has been a while – “Good to see you Mr Nick, how’s your year been?” was a recent greeting at my husband’s favourite restaurant. There are lots of iconic places to visit in Venice but the best discoveries are often those you have when walking aimlessly or peoplewatching from a café. My favourite walk is from a café in the Ghetto

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to the Rialto Bridge. It takes you through the residential area, along the Strada Nova (the local high street) and past the Traghetto – the Gondala ferry where for a couple of Euros you can be rowed across the grand canal. Continue past the smart department store housed in the old post office, up the Rialto steps and down to Campo Bella Vienna and the tiniest bar Al Merca which serves drinks and those tasty cichetti snacks from just a counter in the wall. Next door is the amazing Casa di Pargmigina who will vacuum pack your cheese for you to bring home. Next take a walk around the nearby Rialto food market, boasting artistically displayed fruit and vegetables. The fish section is a sight to behold; piles of the freshest baby shrimp, scallops and squid and every kind of fish you can imagine. I’m already imaging what’s for dinner this evening!

Clockwise, from below: The Rialto fish market is a famous spot right on the Grand Canal; Wendy Atkin-Smith pictured in Venice; the waterways of Venice are lined with fascinating historic buildings

’ve been having a love affair with Venice for almost 20 years and there is no sign of it waning. It’s the first place I want to go to when I have anything big to celebrate, when I just need cheering up or when I simply can’t resist the pull of just being there any longer. Sailing across the lagoon from the airport is a treat in itself and comes with a huge feeling of anticipation, like meeting a friend you haven’t seen for a long time. You can’t wait to see them but you hope they haven’t changed too much. Whether there are bright skies above or there’s the atmospheric mist hovering over the water, both are equally enticing. Sunshine means dining outside on the canal side listening to the local Venetians greeting all their friends and neighbours passing by. Winter means amazing light, less tourists and cosy restaurants with steamed up windows. There is a real sense of community in Venice. People seem to live in the same area of the city

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