Explore More 18 - Winter 2019 by The Chelsea Magazine Company

EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Winter 2019 Â£3.95

BACK-TO-NATURE NORDIC INTERIORS

The call of

THE WILD

Join our resident expert to learn more about wildlife at sea

TOP 5

MUSICAL CITIES TO VISIT IN 2020

“…literally dazzling” Tom Holland, The Sunday Times

CANOPIC COFFINETTE OF TUTANKHAMUN

150 ORIGINAL ARTEFACTS

FINAL WORLD TOUR

2 November 2019 – 3 May 2020 Book Tickets:

WELCOME

Welcome to our winter edition of Explore More We have had a brilliant year here at Viking and are thoroughly looking forward to the year ahead. We recently had the pleasure of meeting many of our guests at a special event we held at Cadogan Hall in London, where we gathered for a concert conducted by the wonderful Debbie Wiseman, OBE. As we filmed the concert we are delighted that many of you will be able to view it whilst travelling on board our ships. We are also thrilled to be sponsoring the London leg of Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharoah which has recently opened at the Saatchi Gallery. We interviewed curator Tarek El Awady to find out more about this historic exhibition (page 38) which we have loved being involved with, especially as Egypt is one of our most popular destinations. As ever, we have a range of inspiring travel features and information-packed City Guides, as well as food writer Karen Burns-Booth’s recipes from Russia (page 60). Nordic-inspired interiors are one of the things that defines Viking, and we loved reading more about journalist Laura Ivill’s favourite areas of Viking Jupiter on her trip to see the midnight sun. We have rounded up our top five musical destinations around the world (page 28) and the award-winning garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes shares his insights on Egyptian plants and their ancient meanings (page 40). We wish you all a very happy Christmas and New Year, and look forward to seeing more of you at our events in 2020. Until then... Best wishes,

Managing Director, Viking UK

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Like us: facebook.com/VikingCruisesUK

Email us: uk-marketing@vikingcruises.com

Find out more about the Viking Explorer Society on our website

WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Co n t e n t s more

EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Winter 2019 £3.95

BACK-TO-NATURE NORDIC INTERIORS

IN THIS ISSUE... 10 VIKING SURPISE Seeking out the midnight sun on a voyage from Bergen to London proves an eye-opening experience for television producer Fi Cotter Craig

18 SYMMETRY AT SEA Viking Jupiter’s Scandinavian interiors take centre stage on Laura Ivill’s cruise to Norway The call of

32 THE CALL OF THE WILD Viking’s resident dolphin and

THE WILD

Join our resident expert to learn more about wildlife at sea

whale expert shares his top tips for spotting wildlife while at sea

TOP 5

MUSICAL CITIES TO VISIT IN 2020

38 TUTANKHAMUN’S TREASURES Before a new exhibit on the pharaoh comes to London, we speak to the curator

40 PHARAOHS AND FLOWERS Paul Hervey-Brookes OFC_EM18_FINAL.indd 1

05/11/2019 16:04

Cover: The elegant Scandinavian art and design on board our ocean ships

takes a closer look at the Ancient Egyptians’ plant obsession

42 TUNE IN Classic FM presenter John Brunning talks to us about music, travel and his bucket-list destinations

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

FEATURES

REGULARS

16 BEAUTIFUL BORDEAUX Charming châteaux and

VIKING NEWS The latest news and events

YOUR WORLD Letters and photos from our guests

world-class wine combine on this French river cruise

24 SUNLIGHT SPECTACULAR All you need to know

about capturing the magic of the midnight sun on camera

28 TOP FIVE MUSIC DESTINATIONS Love music and

46 SEASONAL CHECK LIST Update your winter wardrobe with tartan staples and metallic accessories

travel? These are our pick of the best places to visit

52 KARINE’S TRAVELS Karine Hagen talks Nordic design

48 WIND POWER Kinderdijk is an unexpected highlight

62 BOOK CLUB Viking readers’ share their favourite books

54 POSTCARD FROM NORWAY Tiny fishing port

68 CITY GUIDE: ST. PETERSBURG All golden spires and gilded domes, Russia’s Imperial capital never fails to wow

of a holiday to the Netherlands for writer Kate Finney

Honningsvåg was a big hit on a recent cruise to Norway

56 RUSSIAN DISCOVERY Karen Burns-Booth gives a

day-by-day account of her journey along Russia’s waterways

74 MY UKRAINE Viking UK Senior Marketing Executive

Olya Krvavych shares what she loves about her home country

70 CITY GUIDE: ISTANBUL The only city to straddle two continents is a magical meeting place of East and West

72 CITY GUIDE: RIO DE JANEIRO Urban beaches, a cinematic backdrop and seductive samba beats merge in this hypnotic South American hotspot WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Viking NEWS A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking

Setting sail on 31 August 2019, Viking will attempt to set a new Guinness World Record for the Longest Continuous Passenger Cruise with its 245-day roundtrip journey embarking from London. Guests on Viking Sun will be able to visit six continents, 51 countries and 111 ports as they circumnavigate the world. The Ultimate World Cruise itinerary also offers overnight stays in 23 cities around the world and a varied cultural programme of activities and excursions. 6

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

VIKING RETURNS TO TIBET Viking guests can once again travel to Tibet with us on the aptly named Roof of the World journey, from Beijing-Tibet-Shanghai or in reverse. Departing April-October 2020, the 17-day trip will take in the soaring Himalayas as well as Shanghai’s futuristic skyline, the Great Wall of China, Xian’s Terracotta Army and Beijing’s Forbidden City. In Tibet, guests will visit Lhasa, the spiritual and cultural centre, known as the “City of the Sun”, and will have the chance to take tea with a local family and to learn more about the Buddhist tradition.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

ULTIMATE WORLD CRUISE

NEWS

DATES FOR THE DIARY Come and see us at one of these fantastic events:

5-8 December 2019 Country Living Magazine Christmas Fair Harrogate

16-19 January 2020

NEW CARIBBEAN TRIPS Due to popular demand, we have just released two fabulous new cruises around the legendary Caribbean islands. The 13-day Iconic Southern Caribbean is a round-trip from Miami taking in the glorious white-sand beaches of Aruba, the breath-taking scenery of St.Kitts as well as the colourful city of San Juan in Puerto Rico. Meanwhile, Caribbean Island Treasures takes in Antigua’s beautiful beaches, St. Lucia’s lush mountains, historic St. Kitts and St. Thomas.

PICASSO AND PAPER

We are excited to announce that we’re joining forces with the Royal Academy of Arts to sponsor the new exhibition, opening in January 2020, devoted to Picasso’s use of paper. Featuring over 300 works from Picasso’s prolific 80-year career, Picasso and Paper will be the most comprehensive showcase to look at his imaginative and original uses of paper. royalacademy.org.uk

CLASSIC FM LIVE WITH VIKING

Destinations The Holiday & Travel Show, Manchester EventCity Manchester

25 January – 13 April 2020 Picasso and Paper Royal Academy of Arts, London

30 January – 2 February 2020 Destinations The Holiday & Travel Show Olympia London

Earlier this year in October, as part of our ongoing partnership with Classic FM, we supported another Classic FM Live concert at London's Royal Albert Hall. Our relationship with the radio station, however, extends beyond these spectacular events – we stream Classic FM across our river and ocean ships, so Viking guests can tune in and listen to the classical music radio station wherever in the world they happen to be travelling with us.

AWARDS SEASON We are thrilled to have won the following awards over the last few months: THE BRITISH CRUISE AWARDS 2019 Best River Cruise Line and Best Overall Cruise Line 2019 TRAVEL BULLETIN STAR AWARDS (as voted by Travel Bulletin’s travel agent readers) Star River Cruise Company Award From left to right: Viking's Jenny Wade and Andrew Schweitzer at the Travel Bulletin Star Awards; Viking's Sabrina Piscioneri, Gaynor Lee, Bryony Gammon, Laura Radford, Claire Tibbles and Laurent Ferros at The British Cruise Awards.

FOOD AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE AWARDS 2019 Best River Cruise Line WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Your WORLD

We catch up with where you’ve been and what you’ve seen on your Viking cruises...and where you’re off to next

YOUR LETTERS Throughout our Danube Waltz cruise we were treated like royalty by the Viking Egil crew. We had not been to anywhere east of Germany before and found it very interesting. It was our eighth cruise with Viking and number nine is already booked. Robert and Adrienne Atkinson

Top marks for detail My wife and I returned a week ago from our Rhine Getaway, which was our fourth Viking river cruise. Every time we say it cannot get any better, but once again the crew excelled themselves. Massive praise goes to Andrew Lazarus, the programme director, and Nebojsa Milosevic, the hotel manager. I’d also like to give a special mention to the two waiters who looked after us, Darren and Enrico. They were so attentive and and a credit to the company. No other river cruise line can match Viking’s attention to detail. Mr and Mrs R Hunt

Over the moon We have recently returned from the excellent Waterways of the Tsars cruise and would like to commend three people who gave that ‘little extra’. Firstly, maître d’ Pavel, whose calm and efficient management of the restaurant was noteworthy. Secondly, Chef Leonidas; we took the kitchen tour, which is a really worthwhile optional extra. It is so easy to forget the kitchen crew members, who are rarely seen but essential to meal times, and there was clear evidence of an excellently organised and happy team. Thirdly, Tatiana Prokofieva, our guide on the Moscow City Tour and at the Cosmonautics Museum. I’ve long had an interest in space and can claim a certain 8

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

knowledge of the Soviet/Russian achievements, but her knowledge on the subject was exceptional. Particularly good service deserves to be recognised, so to them all, very many thanks. John Boyes

Making memories on the Mekong We went on the Magnificent Mekong cruise this August and added on an extension to Ha Long Bay (which is so worth doing as it’s nature at its best). We were not disappointed at all by the trip: the hotels were exceptional, Viking Mekong was lovely, and all the staff were welcoming and attentive. A big thank you also to the chef and local guides. The guides on all our Viking holidays have been of a high standard, but Bob (real name Tuyen Nguyen), our programme director on this cruise, has to be the best we’ve ever had. He was so caring, as well as knowledgeable and passionate about his country. His warm nature and sense of humour really helped to make our holiday a wonderful one. Paul and Brenda Andrew

Viking triumphs again We have just returned from our river cruise from Bucharest to Budapest on board Viking Aegir. This was our fourth cruise with Viking and as usual it was outstanding. Everything from the staff and facilities to the itineraries and guides were exceptional, far better than any other company we have travelled with. I would like to give an extra mention to Mircea Poena, our programme director, who was such a helpful, wonderful and sincere person. It was such a pleasure to travel with him on the Danube. Glenis Green

S TA R L E T T E R

We have just returned from our fifth Viking cruise (Empires of the Mediterranean) and once again had a really successful trip. We were initially attracted by the itinerary, especially as we hadn’t visited Slovenia, Bosnia or Montenegro before. We went on six of the organised tours and particularly appreciated being able to escape into the countryside and avoid the most crowded destinations. We had previously visited Dubrovnik and Santorini, so we elected to visit Mostar and cruise the caldera – both very well-organised trips with knowledgeable and articulate guides, who gave us the a very good appreciation of the history, culture and politics of the region. Christopher and Maureen Powell

You could win...

...a £50 M&S gift voucher if your letter is chosen as our star letter. Email us at uk-marketing@ vikingrivercruises.com

PHOTOS: © AWL IMAGES/ISTOCK

The royal treatment

LETTERS

Y O U R P H O T O S #MyVikingStory Follow us on Instagram @VikingCruises for more inspirational images

Cruise highlights Clockwise, from top left: 1. Take the Nile cruise! Take the Nile cruise! Forcedexit 2. We ate and drank our way through Europe on Viking’s Grand European Tour. Peg Dunsworth 3. Peeked out my balcony window upon waking and saw this view – I knew a great day on the Danube was in store. Claudia Rabinowitz 4. On the Rhine Getaway learning how to make Flammkuchen with the sous chef. Candis Hines 5. The stunning view from our stateroom this morning – what an amazing start to our day on the Cities of Light cruise. Marc Geisler 6. Sailing on Viking Sky towards Iceland I looked out of my window and saw this rainbow. Bob Feinberg 7. It is all Van Gogh all the time in Arles. Peter Delean 8. A tufted puffin in flight captured on the Wildlife Photography excursion in Kodiak. Ian Withnall 9. Amazing day in Köln and an amazing week on Viking Tialfi. A big thank you to the crew who treated us like royalty. Karin Freis

Hit List

YOUR MESSAGES minute of it and so did my husband. It’s a real feel good movie and I would recommend. Anne Moffatt

Everyone should add Lucerne in Switzerland to their wish list – it was an amazing city. Rowland Taylor I watched the Downton Abbey film on Saturday and it was fantastic. I enjoyed every single

I have had wonderful experiences with the crew on all my Viking cruises (both river and ocean). They are top notch and I would like to thank Viking for providing a wonderful time for us. Kim King I can’t wait until our next cruise. Congrats on winning the awards for best cruise line and best river cruise line again this year... no one can come near to Viking! Joyce Stewart

Viking, thank you so much for the lovely little cookbook I’ve just received following our recent trip on the lower half of the Danube. There are some great recipes. Elizabeth Dodds We’ve just got back from our Viking Homelands ocean cruise and saw The Little Mermaid statue on one of our tours in Copenhagen. Great times. Marilyn Christie I’m doing the Rhine & Moselle Discovery river cruise in June and cannot wait to visit Strasbourg. It looks like such a beautiful city. Amanda Levell

We went with Viking on its first Caribbean cruise earlier this year. It was a wonderful experience. I would highly recommend going if you can. Dawn Henson

WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

VIKING SURPRISE

Television producer Fi Cotter Craig discovers more than she bargained for on a trip to witness the midnight sun

ull disclosure. I am a massive Viking fan, and asking me to write about a Viking cruise is guaranteed to make me go full Jane McDonald and use far too many superlatives; fabulous, amazing, fabulous, wonderful, great, fabulous – all are synonymous with any Viking cruise, but unlike Jane, I’ll try to restrain myself. That the cruise was going to be excellent was a given, what I wasn’t expecting was the surprises.

It all began in Bergen, which it turns out is a mighty and important Norwegian city, has a storied history, ancient wooden buildings, is the home to the Viking ocean fleet, and was once part of the Hanseatic League. Basically a medieval version of the EU which England joined late and left early. No surprise there. After a whole day in Bergen and being the perfect passenger – you know the sort of thing, looking for a classy fridge magnet, going up

and down a mountain, trying to buy a hand-stitched Norwegian flag for less than 500 euros (impossible), and eating my bodyweight in cinnamon buns, drinks, dinner and lively chat – I was ready for bed by about 9.30. I headed to my stateroom, got into my pyjamas and went to bed, ready to sleep. Sleep, what was I thinking of ? I was in the land of the midnight sun. It may have been almost midnight but it was practically still afternoon outside. I know

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This page: Fi loved experiencing the midnight sun whilst at sea WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/CATHERINE COLLINS

T R AV E L breath away were the farm houses precariously positioned hundreds of metres atop fortress-like walls rising from who knows what depths, and accessible only by narrow vertical tracks. That’s bad enough, but if you were a small child or animal there was a pulley and basket combo to hoist you from sea level to the top. Extraordinary. However if anyone had asked me what sort of things I’d expect to find growing there (unlikely, but stick with me) I would have said; carrots, potatoes, peas, beans, maybe the odd turnip, but almost certainly not apricots. But grow there they do. Geirangerfjord is 62 degrees north and only a few hundred miles south of the Arctic I could have closed the curtains greet me, and every passenger who Circle, and here the most delicious but we were gliding past savagely came in to breakfast by name. As and northerly apricots in the world beautiful islands whose Thor-like the cruise continued I discovered thrive and grow. Arctic apricots? like presence would have been this was standard with so many of Yes please. I really did need a little rude to ignore. These magnificent the staff – the stateroom stewards, lie down after all this overwhelm monoliths backlit by the sun the security team who waved us on and it still wasn’t 09.00. were mesmerising. and off the ship, the shore staff, the Then we got off the ship and Mile after mile, despite the waiters and waitresses, the ladies in went for a very Norwegian hike, simple repetition of sea and austere the spa – everywhere. Now that’s a I say very Norwegian because islands, I couldn’t tear myself away. surprise like a warm hug. it involved walking up some There was nuance in the shapes, the Next, Geirangerfjord. To be incredibly steep hills quite fast. birds that clustered There was just on and around them, something so You need to see the midnight sun to the sparse flora and intriguing about fauna nestling in Geiranger that a bit believe it and I can guarantee you’ll be nooks and clinging like the adventurous as surprised and seduced as I was to crannies, the way schoolgirls in Picnic the sunlight reflected at Hanging Rock we in the deep, dark water made honest I had been a bit sceptical felt the urge to walk higher and every second thrillingly different about the fjord part of this cruise, higher, but mercifully without and created a hunger for the next I’m Scottish, I live on the shores of the disastrous consequences that moment of magic. I think I finally Loch Linnhe, have swum in Loch befell them. fell asleep at about 03.30. The Ness and have even taken a boat The higher we went the more midnight sun is one of those things out on Loch Lomond, so what on impossibly bucolic it became, people can tell you about until they, earth could a fjord offer that my from flower meadows brimming or you, are blue in the face. You beloved Scottish lochs didn’t? Quite with welcoming cheeriness to need to see it to believe it and I can a lot it turned out. untrimmed billowing hedges, pretty much guarantee you’ll be as The first thing that took my the smell of summer grass, surprised and seduced as I was. After that the surprises came thick and fast. So thick and fast in fact, I nearly missed the second one. Breakfast, 07.30, Day Two. The important bit here is ‘Day Two’. Late night island spotting is exhausting, but nothing comes in the way of breakfast, and breakfast in a Viking World Café is just the best. I was steaming full speed ahead past reception and heading for the eggs benedict when I realised the smiling Maitre d’ had said ‘Good Morning Miss Cotter Craig’. Hang on a minute, I had only been on board for just over 24 hours, there were 900 people on Viking Sea, and yet he was able to

Clockwise from far left: A view from Viking Sea as the ship approaches the Lofoten Islands; Lupins growing in the Nordic countryside; the picturesque fishing village of Honningsvåg; Fi was surprised to discover apricots grow so close to the Arctic Circle

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/CATHERINE COLLINS

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the rush of mountain streams, small vertiginous fields bursting with multi-coloured wildflowers; campions, bog cotton (here it has had an upgrade to Arctic cotton), buttercups, cornflowers, saxifrage, sedums and poppies. If all that hadn’t been enough, the sudden appearance of a pack of llamas and herd of bell-ringing goats on the track in front of us just seemed normal for Norway. In retrospect they were just another wonderful surprise in one of the most beautiful and individual countries in the world. Every day the surprises came when you least expected them, like a chain of beautiful bridges in the Arctic Sea linking one remote tiny island with a handful of humans and some sheep to another tiny and remote island with a handful of humans and some sheep. I am positive that if you could look down on it from space they would create a linking pattern as beautiful as the DNA helix. In every port we had the joy of experiencing the seductive attraction of a new place; the smells, the prices, unfathomable things in shops, hummus as a snack for customers in a high end clothes shop, confident Scandinavian friendliness, unheard of brands of confectionery, ancient paving stones, the odd tram rattling politely past or the terrifying ski jump high above TromsØ, a town inside the Arctic Circle at the top of the world and the middle of nowhere. Norway was both just like home and like nowhere else. Other surprise highlights? Being

beaten by birch twigs in the spa (really, try it!), eating king crab fresh from the sea and cooked in a yurt, huge rapacious sea eagles being attacked by furious, tiny terns in the Lofotens. Shetland, part of Scotland, but with an ancient Norwegian soul, the lush treeless greenness of Orkney and the standing stones that made me stand and weep. All never to be forgotten and just when I thought none of these could be beaten – they were. Like all great hosts Viking saved the best surprise til last. The last night of a cruise is always a bittersweet affair, not only is there the sadness of it being over, and goodbyes to be said, but far, far worse – the horror of packing. Why did I not realise that I really didn’t need two huge reindeer skins from TromsØ, and how on earth was I going to deal with the 25 Viking helmets (plus horns) for everyone at work, then there was the orange and green superkingsize ‘limited-edition’ blanket from the art gallery in Orkney. My last night was turning into a disaster. Mercifully I am easily distracted, and a medley of hits from Elvis, Little Eva, The Beatles, Chubby Checker and The Supremes drifting down from the top deck saved me. Anything was better than wrestling the with Viking helmets so I legged it up to Deck 7 to see what was happening. Nothing prepared me for what was happening. A Happening was happening. The house band was setting the night on fire, the singers were belting out hits from the

sixties, and the passengers were dancing. Boy were they dancing. The Locomotion, The Swim, The Mashed Potato, The Twist, The Frug – they still had all the moves, maybe a bit slower and less exuberant than in their prime, but they were giving it everything. Watching them dance, was life affirming and joyous. I will never forget it, and I suspect nor will they. For about an hour at the end of their cruise they were all sweet sixteen once more and in that moment somewhere in the North Sea had their whole lives ahead of them again. That really is a money-can’t-buy experience and ‘surprising’ really doesn’t touch the sides. But then, that’s a Viking cruise for you.

Clockwise, from far left: A view of the Lofoten Islands in Norway; one of the bridges linking isolated islands; Fi meets a Giant Crab; the Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø

A 15-day Into the Midnight Sun trip in 2021 starts from £5,290pp. vikingcruises.co.uk

WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

ITINERARY

Beautiful Bordeaux Discover UNESCO-listed treasures, charming châteaux and inviting ports on this river cruise through Bordeaux – a region synonymous with fine wine and fine living Above: Place de la Bourse is a vision of elegance and symmetry at the heart of Bordeaux

DAY 1 / BORDEAUX, FRANCE

DAY 5 / BOURG & BLAYE, FRANCE

Arrive in Bordeaux, a charming city on the River Garonne in southwestern France renowned for its world-class wine, wonderfully preserved 18th-century landmarks and burgeoning arts scene. Get settled on your ship before joining an escorted evening walk through the city.

The day starts with either a walk around the historical village of Blaye or an optional excursion to Cognac, birthplace of one of the world’s best-known types of brandy. During lunch your ship sets sail for Blaye and its atmospheric citadel built in 1685 to protect the Gironde River and gates of Bordeaux. Be wowed by the dramatic fortification and the fine red wines.

DAY 2 / BORDEAUX, FRANCE Tour the city centre in the morning, taking in UNESCO-listed sites such as the neoclassical Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux and several spectacular churches. There will then be free time to explore the city’s vibrant pedestrian area before sailing upstream to Cadillac, a small commune with a 17th-century castle which gave its name to the American car brand.

DAY 6 / PAUILLAC, FRANCE

DAY 3 / CADILLAC (SAUTERNES), FRANCE

A final morning of cruising will bring you back to Bordeaux, giving you more time to marvel at the city’s rich heritage and wonderful wine appellations. Or you could opt for a tour of the upscale seaside resort Arcachon, a boat ride along the estuary to Cap Ferret to taste the local oysters or a market visit accompanied by the Viking Chef.

Begin your day with a walking tour of Cadillac, then undertake an excursion to Sauternes. Here you’ll visit a château and learn how its prized wines are made.

DAY 4 / LIBOURNE, FRANCE PHOTOS: © AWL IMAGES

There’s much to see and do in Libourne, respected throughout France as a wine-making capital. Pick from a leisurely stroll through the picturesque city square, a trip to the Bergerac area for a truffle masterclass or a wine-tasting session at a nearby château. In the afternoon, visit Saint-Émilion, where charming medieval lanes call for exploration. 16

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After a morning of sailing downstream, past islands and scenic countryside, arrive in Pauillac in the early afternoon for a wine country tour and tasting. Another treat awaits in the evening – dinner at a château set amid rolling vineyard-laced hills.

DAY 7 / BORDEAUX, FRANCE

DAY 8 / BORDEAUX, FRANCE Enjoy breakfast on board before returning to the airport for your flight back home. The eight-day Châteaux, Rivers & Wine journey from Bordeaux roundtrip, starts from £2,045pp.

Explore Bordeaux on Châteaux, Rivers & Wine Nestled in the southwest corner of France lies the famous wine-producing region of Bordeaux. Stunningly beautiful and steeped in history, it is home to countless châteaux and vineyards, medieval towns and ancient cities. On an award-winning Viking Longship, sail the idyllic Gironde, Garonne and Dordogne from the UNESCO-listed city of Bordeaux to medieval Blaye and Saint-Émilion, visiting Cadillac, Sauternes, Pauillac and Bourg. Your journey ends with two nights back in the beautiful city of Bordeaux. Picturesque countryside, medieval towns, World Heritage Sites and, of course, exquisite food and wine – it is all awaiting your discovery. Every Viking river cruise includes: • Return flights from the UK, including flights from selected regional airports • A choice of staterooms and suites • Onboard meals

• Quality wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner on board

• Onboard Wi-Fi (connection speed may vary) • Expert guided excursions

• Tea, coﬀee, snacks and bottled water on board • Onboard enrichment programme • Onboard gratuities

2020 Châteaux, Rivers & Wine Eight days from £2,045pp Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Price and availability are correct at time of going to print but are subject to change. Price is per person and is based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available on Châteaux, Rivers & Wine, departing on selected dates in 2020. Single supplements apply. Prices valid until 31 December 2019. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

This page: The Explorersâ€™ Lounge is the perfect place to sit and enjoy the views

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Symmetry

at sea

Journalist Laura Ivill shines a light on the sumptuous Scandinavian interiors on board Viking Jupiter

trip along Norway’s west coast proved to be the perfect way to experience the dramatic beauty of this stunning coastline, whilst also providing the opportunity to explore Viking Jupiter, the sixth ship to join Viking’s impressive ocean fleet, in more detail. Like its five almost identical sister ships, Viking Jupiter was designed to be a floating boutique hotel, spacious and bright enough for its 930 guests never to feel crowded, yet intimate enough to make it their home-from-home. As I wandered through the ship, it seemed clear to me that Viking founder, Torstein Hagen, had his guests in mind when designing the

myriad spaces, with a wonderful selection of picture-windows from which to enjoy the constantly changing views. My stateroom – softly decorated with blond woods, sea blues and Scandi textiles – reinforced the Norwegian design ethos that underpins the overall look of all Viking vessels. Staterooms are spacious, offer 24-hour room service and most importantly, feature their own balcony, essential for watching the world glide by. The architect responsible, Richard Riveire, had worked previously on the design of the Longships for Viking River Cruises, before moving on to work on Viking’s ocean fleet. Riveire’s background was in WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Clockwise from above: The Aquavit Terrace caters for those keen on al-fresco dining; cosy snugs feature across the Viking fleet; sculptural furniture adds a unique touch; staterooms feature woven blankets and blackout curtains

hotel design, a fact he initially eating, socialising, or simply sitting their trip. It is easy to fall in love assumed would count against him, and watching the world float by. with Norway’s clean fresh air and but which had the opposite effect, I often took binoculars to quiet pace of life, and to appreciate making him the perfect candidate dinner, so as never to miss a stormthe simplicity of sea, sky and earth. in the eyes of Torstein Hagen. petrel nor albatross, a lonesome No wonder Viking aims to subtly All of Viking’s ocean ships are fishing boat nor pods of orca out capture and convey the fresh backdesigned along to-nature spirit of almost identical No wonder Viking aims to capture and convey its homeland. lines, but with would be the fresh back-to-nature spirit of its homeland Itmadness some ships not to. offering special A thorough tour of the ship helped to familiarise features, such as the planetariums hunting. I apprciated the ship’s the layout, and the Viking Art onboard both Viking Jupiter and authentic Scandinavian interior Guide is a clever app that led us all Viking Orion. design – the clean lines, symmetry, around Viking Jupiter by way of One of the benefits of replicating sculptural furniture, warming the curated art collection, another the design and layout is the sense of woods, cosy cushions, handmade inspired offering from Viking that familiarity it brings to repeat guests. textiles and hygge hides. The flow of interconnecting spaces All of these touches worked really helps you to settle into your ensures that guests can always find together to ensure guests feel environment and to broaden your a special spot, suitable for reading, relaxed and recharged during understanding of the art onboard

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PHOTOS: © VIKING

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in the process. I particularly loved the digital animations of flowers unfolding in The Chef ’s Table and the animation of the Bayeux Tapestry. Although most of the artwork, from etchings and paintings to photographs and ceramics, both bought and commissioned, are by Norwegian artists, I confess my favourites were by Kate Jenkins, a textile artist from Brighton, whose plates of seafood featuring squid, sardines, mussels, crayfish and scallops, are all amusingly and delicately crocheted and displayed, appropriately, in the World Café. In addition to the impeccablydesigned dining areas, the LivNordic Spa was another WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Clockwise, from above: Feast on Norwegian specialities in Mamsen’s; one of Kate Jenkins’ crochet artworks; the LivNordic Spa is a spoiling affair

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

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FIVE FAVOURITE COSY CORNERS

The light and airy Wintergarden is a relaxing destination for afternoon tea. Share a plate of pastries or indulge yourself with the whole three tiers.

PHOTOS: © VIKING; KATE JENKINS

The perfect place to watch the world unfold is the Explorers’ Lounge at the bow of the ship. Cosy up on a favourite sofa with soft blankets and a hot drink.

highlight, featuring a mesmerising water-vapour fireplace, a traditional Nordic sauna and treatments and even a Snow Grotto. The real showstopper on Viking Jupiter – and on her sister ships – is the reception area known as the Wintergarden. Comfortable lounge chairs are arranged under an ingenious treelike wooden canopy, originally designed to hide the ceiling structure. A delicious afternoon tea is served daily, with musical entertainment provided by the ship’s onboard musicians. Overall, Viking’s impeccable interiors and clever design elements work to reinforce the seascapes and natural surroundings, and to heighten guests’ appreciation of the epic scenery, resulting in a journey for both the mind and the senses.

For those who love to dine al fresco, the Aquavit Terrace is the ultimate spot for a bite to eat. Enjoy the views from the upper deck. Keeping in touch with those back home has never been better thanks to the workstations tucked away under the atrium’s staircase next to the stunning Lichen Garden. The LivNordic Spa’s hot tub is always inviting, as are the heated stone loungers. For those feeling adventurous there is even a Snow Grotto. WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

This page: Chris experimented with various techniques in order to capture the magic of the midnight sun

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Sunlight

SPECTACULAR Photographer and travel writer Chris Caldicott shares his tips for capturing the magic of the midnight sun

hotographing the midnight sun of the Arctic Circle had been top of my wish list for many years. My dream came true this year on the Into The Midnight Sun cruise on Viking Sea sailing north from Bergen to TromsĂ¸ with the epic backdrop of the ancient glacier-carved landscape of fjords,

waterfalls and islands. The spectacle of the midnight sun took me completely by surprise and exceeded all my expectations. Rather than the perpetual daylight I was expecting, the nights delivered some of the most stunning sunsets I have ever seen, lasting several hours as they seamlessly blended into a long

WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

This page: Chris recommends using mountains and clouds to shield the full force of the sun’s light

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lazy sunrise as the sun seemed to bounce off the North Pole. The length of these nightly, yet ever-changing, visual feasts of organic light-shows made sleep hard to fit into the cruise as the days were also filled with unmissable shore leave excursions

like Nordic Walking hikes in the mountains and activities like Sea Eagle Safaris among the archipelagos of islands. The elevated outdoor terrace of Viking Sea’s Explorers’ Lounge proved to be the perfect stage to photograph the landscape as we

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cruised at a leisurely speed ever northwards, although there were still several technical challenges to overcome. Above, you’ll see some of the images I shot of the sunsets and sunrises. Due to daylight saving adjustments and time zones the

sun actually reaches its lowest point around 0120 hours rather than midnight on our watches – this is the only time when its rays are soft enough to shoot directly into it. In these shots I hid or partially hid the sun behind the clouds or mountains, creating silhouettes to

avoid the full power of the sun’s light burning straight into the lens and bleaching out the fabulous colours in the sky. This gave me the luxury of just setting the camera to Intelligent Auto and letting it chose its own optimum combination of aperture and shutter speed. WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

TOP 5 MUSICAL DESTINATIONS Music, whatever the genre and whatever the period, offers an unbeatable opportunity to sample a new culture or immerse yourself more fully in a familiar one, says travel writer Jo Cair

ST. PETERSBURG, RUSSIA Russia’s second largest city is home to one of the most prestigious music schools in the world, the St. Petersburg Conservatory, so it’s unsurprising that there are so many celebrated composers associated with the place. Tchaikovsky enrolled at the school the year it opened in 1862, followed by Prokofiev in 1904 and Shostakovich in 1919. You can hear works by all three composers at the Mariinsky Theatre, which stands across the square. The historic theatre is one of the leading venues for opera and ballet in the world and hosts a large range of performances in its modern concert hall and chamber music spaces. The illustrious history of Russian ballet is told at the Samoilov Family Museum (a branch of the Saint Petersburg State Museum of Theatre and Music), which occupies the former home of the renowned 19th-century actor Vassily Vassilievich Samoilov. Alongside costumes and posters from the early days of Russian ballet, you’ll find memorabilia from the era of dance impresario Sergei Diaghilev. Another music-related excursion is the atmospheric Tikhvin Cemetery, where Tchaikovsky was buried following his death at the age of 53. Dating back to the early 19th Century, the graveyard is the final resting place of many Russian artists. 28

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C U LT U R E Clockwise, from below: Ballerinas at the historic Mariinsky Theatre; the Johann Strauss Monument in Vienna; a concert played in costume in the Mozarthaus

VIENNA, AUSTRIA

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PHOTOS: ©ALAMY; ISTOCK

The Austrian capital is proud to call itself the ‘City of Music’ and it’s not hard to see why, given the enormous number of influential composers who lived and worked there over the centuries. Beethoven, Brahms, Strauss, Mahler, Haydn and Schubert are all associated with the city, but Vienna’s most famous export is surely Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who composed many of his best-known works in the city. Mozart relocated to Vienna from his hometown of Salzburg to be closer to the music-loving Emperor Joseph II and the career opportunities available in Viennese high society. He lived all over the city but the flat where Mozart spent his happiest years – now a museum – is Vienna’s chief pilgrimage site for fans of the composer. As well as a place to get to know Mozart better, Mozarthaus Vienna hosts afternoon concerts twice a week in July and August. Mozart’s works are regularly performed by the Vienna Philharmonic orchestra, which plays at the beautiful 19th-century Musikverein concert hall, among other venues. Whatever the programme, it’s a treat to attend a concert in this jewel box-like hall. Another unmissable musical highlight is the Vienna State Opera, one of the grandest – and busiest – opera and ballet venues in the world. There’s a different performance almost every day of the week, with works by celebrated Viennese composers programmed alongside international names such as Giuseppe Verdi, George Bizet and Gaetano Donizetti.

BERGEN, NORWAY

XIAN, CHINA

Clockwise, from top left: A piano recital in Grieg Hall in Bergen; a local tavern in Lisbon; traditional dancers perfom in Xian; the exterior of Grieg Hall, one of Bergen’s landmarks

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

While Western classical music is known and loved in China, the same can’t be said for Chinese traditional music here in the West. Xian, a capital of 10 ancient dynasties and today one of China’s most visited cities, is a great place for culturally curious travellers. The Tang period (618-907), when Xian (then called Chang’an) was the most populous city in the world, was a particularly fruitful time for the development of music in China. The dynasty’s extensive trade links with Persia, the Arab world, India and the Malay

peninsula meant that Xian’s cultural community was in constant flux, with both commercial and courtly music scenes reflecting the broad range of styles. One style of music thought to have originated during that era is Xian guyue, a type of ceremonial folk music that features wind and percussion. Placed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2009, it is performed both at indoor performances and outdoors, in street parades and at temple fairs. The Tang era greatly influenced Chinese opera today, with Tang Emperor Xuanzong founding the ‘Pear Garden’, China’s first academy of music, training musicians, dancers and actors.

PHOTOS: ©ALAMY; ISTOCK

Edvard Grieg, the Norwegian composer best known for his Piano Concerto in A minor and Peer Gynt suites, was born in Bergen in 1843 and the city is justifiably obsessed with its most famous native son. Bergen hosts an extensive concert series of Grieg’s music in the beautiful surroundings of the medieval Holy Church of the Cross each summer (June to August) but there’s plenty to occupy classical music fans year-round. The composer lived in the same house, in Troldhaugen, just outside Bergen city centre, for 22 years and wrote many of his best works in a little hut overlooking the fjord. Now a museum, it is open to visitors all year and hosts daily lunchtime concerts and Sunday evening recitals from June to September. Grieg served as artistic director of the Bergen Philharmonic, one of the world’s oldest orchestras, between 1880 and 1882. Today the orchestra is based at Grieg Hall in central Bergen, where it performs a varied programme of classical concerts, operas and contemporary works. Grieg suffered from poor health his whole life as a result of complications from a bout of tuberculosis in his youth, but worked relentlessly nonetheless, touring Europe extensively each year. Summers were spent getting back to nature at Troldhaugen; you can retrace his steps by exploring the hiking trails that criss-cross the seven mountains surrounding Bergen. Or for something a little less strenuous, there’s the Ulriken cable car.

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LISBON, PORTUGAL

Any Lisboeta will tell you that one of the city’s must-do experiences is to wander among the cobbled alleyways, slip inside a tasca (tavern) and listen to Portugal’s haunting national soundtrack: fado. Translated as fate, fado is renowned for its deeply expressive and melancholic character. It originated in the early 19th century on the streets of Lisbon’s Alfama neighbourhood, and is usually accompanied by a Portuguese 12-string guitar. Each ballad speaks of life, passion and struggle, and evokes the Portuguese emotion of saudade – a longing for something lost. A newer variety of fado performed exclusively by men exists in the city of Coimbra. But Lisbon’s scene has always been dominated by women. In a homage to the undisputed queen of fado, Amália Rodrigues, most performers have traditionally cloaked themselves in a black shawl and donned red lipstick before belting out songs of heartache, lost sailors and tempestuous passions as their voices hover on the edge of a sob. Fado is held in such high regard that UNESCO recognised the art form on its Intangible Cultural Heritage List in 2011. Although tavern performances are more authentic to the music’s working class roots, there are some dinner-and-a-show experiences at adegas in the city, which showcase the country’s top singers. But no matter where you watch fado, there are some unwritten rules: remain completely silent, put down your utensils, and don’t order a drink or enter the club until the performer has finished their song.

WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

THE CALL OF THE WILD

This page, top to bottom: A Brown Booby hitchhiking on the foremast of Viking Sun; a Harbour Seal spotted in east Russian waters from the deck of Viking Orion Opposite: A pod of common dolphins breach the water in the Bay of Biscay

y first Viking voyage also happened to be Viking Star’s first transatlantic crossing, In the Wake of the Vikings, in September 2016. This itinerary was particuarly good for spotting whales and dolphins, and guests reported how the atmosphere and activity in and forward of the Explorers’ Lounge was similar to that found on an expedition ship. This is something I now try to recreate on every voyage by involving guests in spotting and recording the wildlife, and providing opportunities to ask questions and share stories. Each wildlife encounter is carefully logged with a latitude and longitude, and data about visibility and sea conditions. Guests can access and add to this ongoing record, which is used to help further our understanding of the movements and distribution of whales, dolphins and porpoises. The first lecture is usually a rundown of what we are likely to see on the cruise, especially the whales, dolphins and porpoises, but also the other creatures to look out for. Later talks look in more detail at particular species, environments or conservation issues. Then every sea day, and often when we enter and leave port, my wife Kris and I will be on deck watching, recording and photographing what is seen. Some guests soon become regular watchers, putting in almost as much time as we do, but many more join us for shorter periods and suddenly sea days become a chance to engage with the

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amazing creatures we share our planet with. People are often surprised at just how much wildlife we see, but weather and sea permitting, we expect to spot something every day we are at sea, wherever we are. Some areas are, of course, better than others, but the main factor is how much time you are prepared to spend watching, and the beauty of the Viking fleet is that there are so many places to watch in comfort. The deck forward of the Explorers’ Lounge is the best location, but the lounge itself is very comfortable and the floor-to-ceiling, self-cleaning windows provide superb views. But many guests, once inspired to watch, enjoy their wildlife from The Restaurant, World Café or the loungers and sofas along the edge of the Wintergarden and Pool Deck. Even the sofas on Deck 2 have their moments. White-caps, waves and swell seriously reduce the chances of spotting wildlife so my top tip is to concentrate your efforts on days when the sea is calm. Also learn where the best places to watch are: coastal and continental shelf areas are generally better than deep ocean, but there are feeding areas for some species hundreds of miles offshore. Sometimes underwater ridges and seamounts, canyons and ocean currents can result in concentrations of food and, therefore, predatory animals far from land. Even in relatively quiet areas of the ocean, there is still life. Much of it might be

PHOTOS: © KRIS SIMPSON/ROBIN PETCH

Robin Petch, aka ‘The Whale and Dolphin Man’, is passionate about studying and protecting the marine environment. Here he reveals how he passes his knowledge on to Viking guests

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Above: The loggerhead turtle lives in oceans all around the world

below the surface, but occasionally some of it surfaces. Argentina is renowned for sightings of orca taking seals Whales, dolphins, sharks, seabirds, turtles or large fish from the beaches in March and April, and October and might be passing through on migration or searching November, and is also home to other species including over vast areas for food, so it’s always worth keeping southern right whales from June to December. The your eyes open. Beagle Channel, Strait of Magellan and Chilean Fjords So where are the best places to see whales and are full of whales, including minke, humpback, sei, dolphins? And which cruise should you book? The fin and blue whales, as well as Chilean, Commerson’s, answers depends on which species you would most Peale’s and dusky dolphins. From here up to Peru and like to see and what time of the year you wish to travel. Ecuador, the cold Humboldt Current ensures marine In summer and early autumn, North Atlantic life is rife, with various species of albatross and giant itineraries are good for spotting minke, humpback, petrels among the many seabird encounters. sei, fin and even blue whales, as well as many dolphin Hawaii is home to breeding humpbacks in the species. Seabirds such as, gannets, fulmars, kittiwakes winter, but in the summer and autumn they head and puffins are also favourites in this part of the to Alaska to feed. Grey whales join them here after world. Even in UK waters, the Sea Watch Foundation migrating along the western seaboard of the USA (seawatchfoundation.org.uk) has records of 29 species and Canada from the lagoons and coastal waters of of whales, dolphins and Baja California where porpoises! they breed. If it’s orca you If it’s orca you want to see, the Striped and common want to see, the Inside Inside Passage between the dolphins inhabit warmer Passage between Vancouver mainland and Vancouver Island is Island and the mainland is waters such as the Bay of Biscay, which usually the best place the best place in the world to go undoubtedly features on voyages to go, although Iceland, heading from Northern Norway, Alaska and the Europe to the Mediterranean, Azores and Canaries, all Antarctic are other popular places to spot the species. of which provide great opportunities to see many of the Further afield, Australia, New Zealand and South above species too. The Azores is also good for sperm Africa are brilliant for marine life encounters, especially whales and easier to get to than the famous whale hub humpback and southern right whales in the southern of Kaikoura, a town on New Zealand’s South Island. summer and early autumn, and various dolphin species Meanwhile, the eastern seaboard of the US and year round. New Zealand is famous for the sperm Canada, from Massachusetts northwards, draws whales of Kaikoura and is the the only place to see humpback, sei, fin and occassionally blue whales, as Hector’s and critically endangered Maui’s dolphins. well as the critically endangered northern right whale. Similarly, only in Namibia and northern South Hotspots include Stellwagen Bank off Boston, the Africa can the Haviside’s dolphin be seen. Bay of Fundy and St. Lawrence Seaway, which has the If you’d like to join Robin, he’ll be on board world’s only non-Arctic population of beluga whales. Viking Sun for the World Cruises from January In the winter months, the Caribbean and Central American waters provide feeding grounds for migrating 2020 and 2021 (LA to London); Viking Jupiter for British Isles Explorer (26 July and 9 August humpback whales, but year-round, Atlantic and 2020) and Viking Homelands (23 August 2020); pantropical spotted dolphins, bottlenose dolphins, Viking Sun for Cities of Antiquities and the Holy pilot whales and sperm whales can be seen. Seabirds Land (7 Nov 2020) and Western Mediterranean such as brown and masked boobies are amazing sights Explorer (21 Nov 2020). here too, often chasing the abundant flying fish. thewhaleanddolphinman.co.uk Around South America, Peninsular Valdez in

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PHOTOS: Â© ROBIN PETCH

Clockwise from above: The Viking fleet has many spaces for wildlife watching; one of 40 known flying fish species; a humpback whale breaches in the Beagle Channel; a wandering albatross spotted in New Zealand

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Tiny beginnings using everyday things turn . .. ts n e m o m e v si s a m to in The Childrenâ€™s Trust offers a range of residential brain injury rehabilitation services for children and young people with acquired brain injury (ABI). Our services aim to maximise each childâ€™s potential and help them discover their tiny massive moment. How can you get involved? Make a donation â€“ help us invest in vital equipment, outings and activities for children with brain injury.

thechildrenstrust.org.uk/vikings

Charity registration number: 288018. TCT_570. 07/19

Discover how a clay snake was pivotal in helping Emilie communicate again.

CHARITY

Charity MISSION

We’ve selected The Children’s Trust, the UK’s leading charity for children with brain injury, as one of our charities of the year. Read more about the indispensable work they do. Below: Last year, more than 1200 children and families were supported by The Children's Trust

very year more than 40,000 children in the UK are left with a brain injury as a result of an illness or accident. Many children make a good recovery, but thousands have to live with ongoing, long-term difficulties. Not only do the children require specialist medical attention and rehabilitation, but the families also need a huge amount of support. This is where The Children’s Trust comes in – the charity delivers rehabilitation, education and community services to children and young people, as well as their families, at this extremely difficult time, and Viking is proud to offer its support.

WHAT THE CHARITY DOES

Last year, The Children’s Trust supported over 1200 children and their families, both at its rehabilitation centre in Tadworth, Surrey – the largest unit of its kind in the country – and through its Brain Injury Community Service. The charity supports each child by tailoring a rehabilitation programme to suit their individual needs and with a variety of different specialist therapies, including physiotherapy, occupational therapy, speech and

language therapy and music therapy. The ultimate aim is for all children with a brain injury and neurodisability to have the opportunity to live the best life possible. FUNDRAISING EFFORTS

The Children’s Trust needs to raise £7m each year to support children and families. THE CHILDREN’S TRUST AIMS TO:

• Maximise each child’s potential • Restore lost skills if possible, develop alternative skills and provide compensatory aids • Facilitate new learning beyond the end of the child’s natural recovery period • Develop an understanding of the child’s needs • Ensure the child’s environment at home is modified for the way they will function after their brain injury • Prevent secondary problems from developing

To hit its fundraising targets, the charity runs a wide range of events throughout the year. These include a Rhythm & Grooves Ball and Fireworks Night and an annual Christmas concert. Two other events for 2020 are the Spring Golf Day in May and The Children’s Trust Supercar Event at Goodwood Motor Circuit taking place in late July. The Children’s Trust is also always on the lookout for keen runners, cyclists and golfers to participate in sporting events, such as the Virgin London Marathon and Ride London 100, as well as general fundraisers and volunteers. Viking has carried out a number of fundraising activities throughout the year to support The Children’s Trust, including an office dress-down day and donating cruises as auction prizes, and the charity is delighted it has been selected to be one of Viking’s charities of the year. WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Tutankhamun’s treasures

As the ground-breaking TUTANKHAMUN: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh exhibition continues its world tour, the curator Tarek El Awady discusses how it came about

How did you become involved with this Tutankhamun exhibition?

I studied archaeology at Cairo University and got my Ph.D. from Charles University in the Czech Republic. I was first appointed as Inspector of Antiquities for the Supreme Council of Antiquities, at the Ministry of Antiquities in 1994. I worked on the excavation of the Giza Pyramids, Saqqara and Bahariya Oasis as a member of the Egyptian Archaeological Mission, then I became the deputy field director of the excavation of the Valley of the Kings and the field director of the excavation in Abusir. In 2010, I became the director of the Egyptian Museum in Cairo and in 2015 I became the director of the Archaeological Museum of Alexandrina Bibliotheca. In early 2018 I was appointed as the curator of TUTANKHAMUN: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh, working to create the exhibition which is touring 10 cities across the world for the last time before the king’s treasures are moved to the Grand Egyptian Museum. Can you tell us a bit about the discovery of the tomb?

On 4 November 1922, the English Egyptologist Howard Carter discovered the intact tomb of Tutankhamun. Carter’s discovery proved the

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INTERVIEW

long-believed statement made by the American adventurer and excavator Theodore Davis that there was nothing left to be discovered in the Valley of the Kings was not true. It’s ironic that Carter found the tomb of Tutankhamun just two metres away from where Davis had stopped his excavation effort. Although Tutankhamun only spent a decade on the throne, his tomb was packed with more than 5,000 artefacts that represented everything the king might need in his final resting place and for his journey to the afterlife. The tomb was equipped with tiny objects like simple arrows and bows, but also contained the king’s chariots, funerary beds, shrines, and his magnificent nest of coffins. Tutankhamun’s treasure was moved by Carter and his team from Luxor to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, leaving only the king’s mummy in the outer coffin inside the tomb. Thanks to the first class conservation work of Alfred Lucas and the dry weather in Egypt, the treasures of Tutankhamun are still well preserved today. What is the legacy of Tutankhamun and the ancient Egyptians in the modern world?

The 1922 discovery opened a wide window for archaeologists and the public to look closely at the lost world of the pharaohs. However, ever since Tutankhamun’s tomb has been excavated, Egypt has found out that the king and his treasure also offer insights into modern-day Egypt. In fact, Tutankhamun is considered to be Egypt’s best ambassador to the world, and there have always been cultural, political, and economical reasons for sending the king’s treasure to tour the world. For example, the 1967 exhibition in France raised funds for saving Nubian monuments and helped to restore Egypt and France’s long relationship after the damage caused by the 1956 war on Egypt after the Suez Canal crisis. The king’s tour of the USA during the 1970s also improved the countries’ relationship. Also, when Egypt was hit by a savage terrorist attack in 1997 at Deir El Bahry in Luxor, the country sent a new Tutankhamun exhibition to tour the world

in 2004, starting in Switzerland, in order to improve the country’s appeal to tourists. What do you think makes this exhibition so special and why?

Egypt has only ever allowed a few objects to tour the world – this is until now. The new exhibition is the largest Tutankhamun collection to ever leave Egypt and commemorates 100 years since the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb. There are 150 magnificent artefacts associated with Tutankhamun on display to the public, 60 of which have never left Egypt before. These objects are masterpieces of ancient art, and the exhibition is designed to allow visitors to accompany the golden pharaoh on his magical journey to the afterlife. It also presents recent discoveries about Tutankhamun’s life and death, his family and his treasures, which were possible with the help of modern technology such as CT-scans and DNA analysis being utilised by researchers. What are your favourite artefacts within the exhibition and why?

of the guardian always makes me feel that everything is in the right order and that the universe still holds balance. For me, the trumpet of Tutankhamun is also special. Not only is the artefact the oldest musical instrument from the ancient world that still exists and that can still be played, but it is also the only tool that can actually connect us with the world of the pharaohs and allow us to listen and hear sounds from that magical time. I also very much like the wishing cup of Tutankhamun; it’s another breathtaking artefact. The hieroglyphic text on the rim reads: ‘May your Ka (soul) live thousands of years, may your eyes see wonderful things’.

Clockwise, from above: Dr. Tarek El Awady at work; a gilded wooden shrine with scenes of Tutankhamun; the Colossal Statue of Tutankhamun; a gilded wooden bed found in the tomb; an impressive statue of Tutankhamun

What are your tips for Viking guests visiting Egypt?

I would advise Viking guests to enjoy Egypt – the sun, the food and the rich history of the country. And a Nile cruise from Aswan to Luxor makes everyone on board feel as if they are on a time machine ride back to Ancient Egypt.

The guardian statue of Tutankhamun is my favourite piece that visitors can see in the exhibition. One can still see in this masterpiece of art the magic, the passion and the perfection of ancient Egypt. The look on the face WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

PHARAOHS and FLOWERS Garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes conjures up the allure of Egypt, shining a spotlight on the plants of the region

Top to bottom: Papyrus growing along the Nile River; Paul Hervey-Brookes

o many Egypt is a land of hot sun and searing bright light; it is exotic and steeped in ancient history but not often associated with flowers. However, the great Pharaohs, including the enigmatic boy king, Tutankhamen, were obsessed by flowers and intertwined them into daily life as well as more spiritual rituals. The most obvious plants that grow along the Nile are the lotus and papyrus and both featured highly in everyday life.

LOTUS LOVE

Bowls shaped like a lotus bloom would be carried to the Nile with lit candles, and whilst singing prayers 40

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the Egyptians would float the little lotus boat out; if it remained floating and drifted away a good year was to follow. Egyptians would sing to the lotus and replicate its form in architectural details, and it came to symbolise Upper Egypt and the source of the Nile whilst the papyrus stood for Lower Egypt. In spiritual life, thanks to its habit of opening in the morning and closing at night, the lotus came to represent the idea of rebirth and the flower symbolised in depictions and hieroglyphs the deceased as they entered the underworld and also their rebirth into new life. The gods Re and Nefertem were both depicted by ancient artists as emerging from Lotus flowers, a symbol of its power. There are two varieties of lotus that thrive along the Nile: Nymphaea coerulea and Nymphaea

lotus â€“ the blue lotus. The former is intensely scented and ancient Egyptians believed its heavenly fragrance indicated the presence of a god and, as such, in tomb scenes the deceased is often depicted with its bloom held to his or her nose.

POWERFUL PAPYRUS

The papyrus, which grows in large thickets along the banks and shores of the Nile, was a symbol of fertility and life. During the Old Kingdom (2686 to 2181BC) it was the most utilised form in architectural design and its free stalks and flowering heads often made up the offerings the dead would take to the grave. Later on, during the New Kingdom (1570 to 1070BC), many non-native plants arrived in Egypt via gift-giving and conquest. Tuthmosis III had a botanical garden planted at the Temple

GARDENING of Amun at Karnak and, in the tomb paintings of the period, plants such as Papaver rheas and Centuarea depressa from the Judaea and Samaria regions, along with European Arum italica and Dracunculus vulgaris, are depicted.

TUTANKHAMUN’S TOMB

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

During the 18th Dynasty, it was fashionable to wear large thin blueish tin collars of faience. These normally took the decorative forms of flowers we would know today as cornflower, chamomile, lotus and citrus type fruits. Collars made in the same style but of fresh flowers were created for ceremonies and feasts, and are also depicted in tomb paintings from the period. More exciting, however, are the six complete collars that were found in Tutankhamun’s tomb. These would have been worn at his funerary banquet and were embalmed to travel with him to the next life. Tutankhamun offers us one of the most complete insights into flowers and their significance for the next life in Ancient Egypt. Almost all Pharaohs of the New Kingdom would have been embalmed with a floral collar which rested on the chest on the innermost of their coffins. Tutankhamun’s is the sole surviving collar we have today and it includes plants such as olive, Egyptian willow and pomegranate. Alongside the collar, flat garlands made of similar plants, including acacia, delphinium, carthamus and white willow herb, were wound over the fabric of the embalmed Pharaoh in concentric semicircles. Most of these have not survived but depictions and fragments found

in the inner caskets point to the importance flowers held. There is also evidence that in rare circumstances the Pharaoh would have had a floral crown. Fragments had been found in the hair of Amenhotep II but final proof was found with Tutankhamun. Two crowns hung around the royal insignia of the brows of the first and second coffin. Statuettes of the deceased placed in the tomb were also decorated with floral garlands and, unusually, the jugs and casket of goods to be taken to the next life were also decorated with fresh floral garlands. Tutankhamun’s tomb is one of only three to be found containing pole bouquets – these were made from vines and the leaf stems of a native tree called melilot.

FLORAL TRIBUTES

There are still many mysteries surrounding the plants found in different tombs. The dried remains of Narcissus tazetta bulb were

found placed around the neck of Rameses II but not on any other Pharaoh, whilst the leaves of Crinum were placed over the eyes, nose, mouth and mummification incisions of Sennefer, Mayor of Thebes; fascinating as the leaves are the most uninteresting part of the bulb. Later, floral garlands were made into the shape of the Ankh sign and offered to the gods. These signs (sometimes two or three feet high) were also carried to the tomb entrance and stood with the casket, which was upright whilst the last rites before interment were offered. As time passed more complicated wreaths of exotic flowers including rosa, lychnis and jasmine were used in these ceremonies. Finally, of crucial importance to Ancient Egyptian life was the role of perfume and perfume production. Large amounts of mostly empty, perfume-filled jars, most likely made from the blue lotus were found alongside Tutankhamun. This perfume remained a staple trade export into the Greco-Roman period. So next time you see the famous Golden Mask of Tutankhamun you will be able to imagine that when it was originally set in place, under that mighty golden face would have been thousands of beautiful, scented flowers woven into rich garlands to transport the Pharaoh safely to the next life.

Clockwise, from above: Flowers were originally placed under Tutankhamun’s funerary mask; jasmin flowers; blue lotus is the sacred flower of the Nile; Egyptian gods drawn onto papyrus paper

WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

TUNE IN

As one of Classic FM’s longest-serving presenters, John Brunning is a firm favourite with listeners around the world

Above: A Viking Longship sails along the River Main; Classic FM presenter John Brunning

How did your career in radio start and develop?

Well my career in radio had rather dodgy beginnings because I ran a pirate station from the bedroom of my mother’s bungalow where I grew up in Colchester. Eventually we got busted by the authorities. I was about 15 at the time, which was just as well because had I been 16, they would have prosecuted me. I still have the letter somewhere from Chris Chatterway, the then

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

Secretary of State, saying how naughty I had been and not to do it again. My legitimate career started at Capital (Radio). I had a programme called The Way It Is, in the early 1980s. From there, I moved to Glasgow and then down to Invicta Radio in Kent and worked in news. I started at Classic FM in 1992, a couple of weeks before the station’s first on-air date in September. The controller heard about my love of music and suggested a change of direction. I was reluctant at first, but I have no regrets now because I love the music and it is the ideal job for me. Where did your passion for classical music stem from?

When I was a lad, my father used to work for Co-op Insurance and I used to go with him on his rounds. I must have been five years old and we stopped at an elderly lady’s house. Well she seemed elderly, but looking back, she was

probably about 30! She had an old gramophone and three 78rpm records. One was Bach’s Toccata and Fugue in D minor. I loved the sound of the organ, so I used to play it ad nauseam. My poor father! And that was it really. The truth is, I love all sorts of music, but classical music has always been very close to my heart. Who are you favourite composers and why?

There really are too many favourites to list! The three B’s, obviously: Beethoven, Bach and Brahms, I love all of them. I am very fond of Haydn, but if I had to choose one, it would have to be Tchaikovsky. His music is so melodic and so beautifully put together. What’s your favourite piece?

Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 5 and the No. 6, the Pathetique, are particular favourites, but ask me again tomorrow and I will

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probably come up with something completely different! I think the 6th is such an emotional rollercoaster. It has got all of life encapsulated within it, so I’d go for the 6th. Name your top three bucket-list destinations...

I would love to go to New Zealand as I’ve been to Australia and loved it. I would like to go to India because I think it is just a fascinating place, and Chile and Argentina are places I have always fancied as well. I can speak a bit of Spanish, but I would like to spend more time speaking the language. Have you ever ventured out on a cruise?

PHOTOS: © ROBERT WORKMAN /ISTOCK

I have, because many years ago, I used to host music festivals on cruises. I have done 15 cruises now, introducing various artists, string quartets, pianists and singers. I always enjoyed it and I used to look forward to it like a holiday. I haven’t done a river cruise and that is something I would very much

Clockwise, from bottom right: traditional Norwegian houses sit on the banks of a majestic fjord; classical music is John’s passion; a chance encounter with a gramaphone ignited his love for music; Ludwig van Beethoven

like to do because I have done three transatlantic crossings. The sail into New York is just something else, it really is. Stockholm is another really nice one and some of the Norwegian fjords are fantastic. The idea of going along the Rhine or the Danube is very appealing. What three things do you never travel without?

I suppose a passport would be too obvious! So certainly a toothbrush. I don’t have much use for a hairbrush these days, so that clears a space for something else. The second item is a sink plug. And I always have to take my specs these days. I cannot get by without those! What would your playlist look like for a Viking ocean cruise around the Mediterranean?

Let’s think about the countries. We could have Manuel de Falla for Spain and Gabriel Fauré to represent France – on air, I always call him my favourite French composer. Vivaldi for Italy, of

course, and Brahms for Germany. I am a big fan of Brahms’ music and Mozart would have to be there, of course. With Brahms, I particularly love his late piano pieces that he wrote towards the end of his life. I get a sense of a man whose life had not been as easy as he would have liked. There is a wistfulness and a sense of regret in his very late piano pieces. The piano was his instrument, but you have to be feeling emotionally robust to listen to them, because they will tear you apart if you are not. They do me anyway. And what about the soundtrack to a Viking river cruise along the Danube?

Beethoven, Schubert, Mozart and Haydn, all the great Viennese, classical and romantic composers. I love Haydn’s Symphony No. 100, which is the Military Symphony. Even studying it academically at school hasn’t spoilt it for me. And I love Schubert’s The Trout Quintet, which would seem appropriate being on a freshwater river. How do Viking and Classic FM complement one another?

I think two words really: quality and relaxation. You understand what the customer, the listener, wants, and deliver that to them.

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CHRISTMAS at the CASTLE

To celebrate the publication of her new book, Lady Carnarvon conjures up the magic of Christmas at Highclere, her historic home and the setting for Downton Abbey How far in advance do you start preparations for Christmas at Highclere?

We plan our events in the summer and start making our decorations in October along with the Christmas pudding and Christmas cake. Then in late November the trees and the decorations go up.

It is usually 20 feet tall and is cut from a local farm. On the appointed day all the staff help out as it has to be carried in by hand and raised using a series of ropes and pulleys. It takes another two days to decorate so it is a team effort from all the Highclere elves. How many other trees do you display around the estate?

Can you tell us a bit more about your Christmas Day?

We have around another 40 trees, some which line the drive and VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

Do you have any favourite family recipes?

So many! I absolutely love the traditional Christmas Day lunch of roast turkey with all the delicious accompaniments and a large ham to slice hot or cold. But I also enjoy using up leftovers in dishes such as turkey rissoles or frying slices of Christmas pudding gently in butter. After Christmas I crave something lighter such as fennel, blood orange and walnut salad.

Tell us more about the huge Christmas tree in the saloon?

offer a twinkling, festive entrance for visitors. We have others in the courtyard and then about eight inside in the Dining Room, Library, Music Room, Drawing Room, Smoking Room and hall.

Usually we start with a dog walk, then it is back to the castle for

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Clockwise, from bottom left: Lady Carnarvon welcomes you in; Highclere Castle in the snow; estate staff carry the tree inside; Lady Carnarvon wraps presents by the fire; turkey is a highlight of lunch

a breakfast of scrambled eggs, smoked salmon, porridge and toast. Then we all head to church for the Christmas service before sitting down to a fantastic Christmas lunch. After lunch we open our presents and watch the Queen’s speech – much like many families around the country. And how do you celebrate Boxing Day and New Year?

On Boxing Day we have a traditional shoot followed by a warming stew or pie for lunch. On New Year’s Eve we have a party with traditional Scottish reeling. Our guests are welcomed by a piper in immaculate white spats, swinging kilt, a bearskin of a hat and a warm jacket. The first reel is inevitably the Dashing White Sargent in which guests have to line up in groups of three. It is the most enormous fun and no one is left out, whatever their age.

PHOTOS: © LADY CARNARVON

Can you describe a few of the events happening this year?

Our Christmas events this year really take their inspiration from the themes in my book Christmas at Highclere, from tips on preparation and planning, to decorating and shopping, singing carols together,

enjoying Christmas afternoon teas, and dining with us in the State Dining Room. We hope children will come and find Santa’s Grotto whilst, as a finale, Charles Dickens’ great, great grandson, Gerald Dickens, will join us to read excerpts from A Christmas Carol. Are there any Christmases that have stood out for you?

I think the first one Geordie and I hosted. My five sisters and their families came to stay and it was a hilarious experience. The mattresses were 150 years old and incredibly lumpy, they all put their feet through the sheets because they were so ancient. The hot water came on at all the wrong times and my husband looked askance at the spike in electricity as all of us blow-dried our hair at 6pm. We soon worked out what we needed to update – the most pressing one being heaters for the bedrooms. What is your top Christmas tradition at Highclere?

I have to say I love Christmas Eve when my husband reads the poem Twas the Night Before Christmas to the assembled children sitting around him on the floor, just like his father did before him.

LADY CARNARVON’S FENNEL, BLOOD ORANGE AND WALNUT SALAD SERVES 4 I am always looking for colourful winter salads, and nuts give a much-needed energy boost at this busy time of year. INGREDIENTS:

• 2 bulbs of fennel • 2 blood oranges • 60g walnuts • 10ml walnut oil and a further 10ml for a dressing • 100g wild rocket METHOD:

1. Peel and wash the whole fennel bulb. 2. Cut straight down the middle and remove the heart (the hard centre near the root). Now slice as thinly as you can – we use a mandolin for this. 3. Peel the blood oranges and segment and put the flesh segments to one side, saving any juice that comes your way, as this can be used later. 4. Wash the rocket in cold water and shake so it is as dry as possible. 5. Place a frying pan on a high heat and add the walnut oil. When hot, carefully add the walnuts until nicely toasted on both sides. Remove from the pan and allow to cool. 6. Time to toss the salad together. Take a big bowl add the rocket, walnuts and fennel and dress with walnut oil, then gently toss together. Try not to handle the salad too much, season with cracked black pepper and sea salt and any remaining blood orange juice. 7. Divide into four separate bowls and then add a few blood orange segments to each one.

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Tartan scarf (£44.95, Barbour)

Disk-drop earrings (£22, Oliver Bonas)

Knitted jumper (£85.95, Barbour)

Beaded earrings (£22, Oliver Bonas)

For women...

Cord jumpsuit (£70, Monsoon)

Metallic accessories will add a touch of sparkle to classic outfits Glitter clutch bag (£25, Marks and Spencer)

Seasonal

Sunglasses (£100, Folli Folli)

check list

Ochre midi dress (£229, Hobbs)

Add tartan staples to your wardrobe this winter for a look that will travel well

Sheepskin parka and snow boots (from a selection at Celtic & Co.)

Wool coat (£299, Hobbs)

Shirt dress (£199, Hobbs)

Leather boots (£89, Office)

Cross body bag (£159, Hobbs)

FA S H I O N Knitwear (from a selection at Celtic & Co.)

and for men...

Choose a tartan with a hint of bright colour for added zing Argyle sweater (£110, Hobbs)

Merino scarf (£25, Marks and Spencers)

Tartan bomber jacket (£65, Burton)

Merino jumper (£39.50, Marks and Spencer)

Cotton trousers (£55, White Stuff) Wide leg trousers (£129, Hobbs) Overnight bag (£80, Debenhams)

Cashmere jumper (£149, Marks and Spencer)

Circle earrings (£22, Oliver Bonas)

Suede boots (£125, Barbour) Wool beret (£29, Hobbs)

Checked shirt (From a selection at Burton)

Shoulder bag (£35, Monsoon)

Sheepskin gloves (£72, Celtic & Co.)

A-line skirt (£60, Laura Ashley)

Wind

power A visit to see the famous windmills of Kinderdijk proved to be the unexpected highlight of a trip to the Netherlands for journalist Kate Finney

hen I woke up on Roughly translated as ‘Children’s washing lines and the rhythmic a windy Saturday Dyke’, the name Kinderdijk is noise of the mills’ swooshing sails morning in the thought to originate from the rotating on their endless cycle Netherlands, I had infamous Saint Elisabeth’s flood of was slightly terrifying – it was a not anticipated that I’d be so moved 1421 which swept away the poorly remarkably windy day. when I found myself standing maintained dykes protecting the Accidents did happen – Miller outside an old windmill wearing a polder, leaving thousands of people Cees Hoek was widowed in 1916 pair of wooden clogs. The happy to drown. Once survivors dared after his wife, Alie, was hit by one noises of nearby children messing to venture out of their homes to of the sails trying to move one of around in rowing boats, a few survey the damage, a cradle was their 13 children out of harm’s way others residents – and on a windy swimming in the Windmills and pumping stations have been day, it is easy to waterway, and imagine how the the sight of neatly keeping the area dry for nearly a thousand years power of the wind tended gardens of could drastically neighbouring mills scattered across seen bobbing up and down on the change an entire landscape. the serene landscape made it easy to water, carrying a crying baby. A The clever system of windmills drift back into the past. cat balanced on the cradle to keep and pumping stations has been Kinderdijk consists of a network it afloat and the baby was saved, keeping the area dry for nearly of 19 windmills in the low-lying hence the name of the area. a thousand years. Designated a polder – or reclaimed – lands of the I had thought visiting windmills UNESCO World Heritage Site in Netherlands, and dates back to the might feel like a bit of a cliché, 1997, Kinderdijk – like some 40% early 1700s. Families of millers still but the reality was more like of the Netherlands – lies below sea inhabit the windmills and operate experiencing a very real piece level. Not only are the windmills them regularly, but two of them are of living history. Simple white used to remove water from the now museum mills. linen clothes were dancing on the landscape, they can also enable

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

Above: The sun sets over Kinderdijk, home to 19 historic windmills

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HISTORY OF KINDERDIJK In the 13th century, Count Floris V of Holland presided over the foundation of District Water Boards, an innovative and cooperative organisation which saw residents working together to keep their lands dry. Three Water Boards were founded here: Alblasserwaard, Overwaard and Nederwaard, which were later merged into the Rivierenland Water Board. A system of ditches and watercourses was used to lead the water from the polder to the low point at the western tip of the area. That point is Kinderdijk. Here a set of four sluices – two for each Water Board – have been built to let the water flow out into the river at low tide. These sluices, or Elshoutsluizen, were the first technological leap in the water management system you can still see at work today. Looking back to all the centuries ago, the establishment of the Water Boards was an important step towards the modern democracy of the Netherlands. Local residents were united in their quest to control and harness the power of the wind and the water. The Water Board directorship was elected by voting: a political tradition that still determines how the Netherlands is governed to this very day. Over the following centuries, the system was improved. The water in the lower basin can be lifted up into the upper basin in the event of excess water, but it can also be redirected back into the polder canals in times of drought.

Above: Thatched outbuildings can be explored in the grounds of the Blokweer Museum Mill

the flow of water back to land when needed during times of drought. Walking along the waterway, we entered the Nederwaard Museum Mill just as two millers were heaving the creaking top section around so that the sails were facing into the wind. It was a mighty beast of a windmill, yet inside there were countless objects laid out to conjure up what life would have once been like. A cosy kitchen area, pots and

pans, beautiful embroidered linen curtains, and bedsteads that you can actually lie in. Further along, at the Blokweer Museum Mill, we wandered around the vegetable garden, fed the goats and rabbits, marvelled at the simple wooden interiors, tried on the clogs and attempted to wash clothes using a mangle. Dating back to 1630, this mill features a scoop wheel, which moves the water, and is incredibly evocative of what life must have been like on a daily basis. The romance of it all is only somewhat shattered by imagining how incredibly hard the millers must have worked. Back at the Wisboom visitor centre I was ready to confront the predictable tourist trap, but instead was surprised to find an interactive installation in the re-purposed pump house, encouraging people to see how well they would fare as millers. The large model featured

the Kinderdijk windmills, as well as changing weather conditions and water levels. Not only do visitors need to turn their miniature mills depending on the wind direction, but the need to work as a team is vital for success – not at all easy! But it was the perfect way to demonstrate the skills that have been honed over the centuries. Today, all 19 of the windmills are still operational, and many are still handed down from one generation to the next. Yet for a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it wasn’t at all touristy. While there were lots of visitors wandering around, it was easy to see beyond them and soak in the peace of the place. And the clogs were surprisingly comfortable. An eight-day Rhine Getaway trip from Basel to Amsterdam starts from £1,845pp. vikingcruises.co.uk WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Help Musicians, who are we? Help Musicians is an independent charity with an extraordinary history. For nearly 100 years, we have provided a broad spectrum of help, support and opportunities to empower musicians at any stage of their career, from times of great need to times of opportunity. We want a world where musicians thrive and work tirelessly to provide creative development and preventative support to musicians of all genres and walks of life in an ever-changing musical landscape. Help Musicians is there for musicians starting out through to retirement, providing a lifetime of support when it is needed most.

How can we help?

Why do we need your help?

Through extensive research, we know that the nature of a musicianâ€™s life can be challenging, with many complex difficulties that can leave them vulnerable and contribute to a precarious state of wellbeing, physically, financially, creatively and emotionally.

Our insights show that the life of a musician can be precarious with many unique challenges that can impact emotional, financial and physical wellbeing.

Help Musicians is uniquely placed to help music creators and those within the industry meet these challenges head on with individually tailored help and a diverse, integrated programme of support. We offer crucial help to sustain careers and provides catalytic funding at times of great need, as well as support to avoid injury, minimise mental health challenges, support hearing health and more; helping musicians thrive, not just survive.

In 2018, the demand for our support increased by 67% and this trend is set to continue. In order for us to continue to meet the rising need among musicians, your help has never been more important to us. Help Musicians is delighted to have had the support of Viking, who generously hosted us and donated an incredible cruise as a raffle prize at Vikingsâ€™s recent concert at Cadogan Hall. We thank Viking for their further support towards our upcoming flagship Festival of St Cecilia, taking place at Westminster Abbey on 20 November, about which you can find out more and book your free tickets at helpmusicians.org.uk/festival2019. To find out more about our work and how you can help, please visit helpmusicians.org.uk, or get in touch on 020 7239 9100 or at info@helpmusicians.org.uk.

Registered Charity No.228089

pho ny The National Sym Orchestra in action

Debbie Wiseman takes to the rostrum

NEWS

Musician at Help The team

HIGH NOTES

s UK

Celebrating an evening of classical music and fundraising with the National Symphony Orchestra

n September, we hosted an evening of classical music performed by the National Symphony Orchestra, and presented and conducted by Debbie Wiseman, OBE, at London’s Cadogan Hall. Not only did the event wow Viking guests with its stirring symphonies, but it also helped to raise £2,000 for Help Musicians UK – a leading charity supporting musicians in need. The concert was filmed, too, and will be screened on Viking ships so all guests can enjoy the experience wherever they are in the world.

Harpist Skai la Kanga

Percussionist Tristan Fry on the timpani drums

vikingcruises.co.uk

Lucky Viking guests won tickets to watch the exclusive performance

The orchestra’s solo violinist, Jack Liebeck

s reception the drink ests enjoy gu g in ik V

The National Symphony Orchestra has a reputation for excellence Debbie Wiseman conducts her own compositions

Michael Whight, one of the orchestra’s clarinettists

SPR ING 2018 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

ON LOCATION with Karine

Executive Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen, talks Nordic design, from what to look out for on board the Viking fleet to how to implement it into your own home

ordic design is all about simplicity, functional beauty and a lack of clutter. When I was growing up, my grandmother would often encourage me to ‘put everything back where it belongs’. This simple rule has always stuck with me; when everything has a dedicated place, it makes any space feel tranquil and refined, whether it be my grandmother’s tiny kitchen or the interior design on our ships, and it certainly saves time looking for things! I enjoy the Nordic aesthetic because it offers a respite from the constant stimulation of the modern world. It seems that we are always surrounded by noise, colour and distractions, and it is very easy to start acquiring possessions based on what’s trending; however, Norwegians on the whole are big proponents of taking care of what they have. We pass things down from generation to generation – from traditional sweaters, to our national costumes, to family furniture. I particularly enjoy contrasting old bondemøbler (Norwegian farm furniture painted with beautiful patterns) with more modern furnishings. This helps keeps Nordic heritage alive without becoming overwhelmed by it. Among my most prized possessions is the patterned Figgjo Flint crockery I inherited 52

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from my grandmother, which later inspired the dishware used in Mamsen’s, her namesake café serving Norwegian specialities on board our fleet of ocean ships. In my closet, you’ll find more Nordic pieces: my beloved Dale of Norway sweaters which I love for their classic patterns, longevity (they never stretch out or pill) and thoughtful design (the fantastic two way zipper and slits in the side to make room for hips); as well as my grandmother’s brooch, a timeless and elegant piece

that is by far my most worn and treasured piece of jewellery. Whether it’s in your living room or closet or your dining room table, Nordic design can help to bring a sense of calmness and serenity to your environment. If you’d like to incorporate some of this ethos into your life, I encourage you to create systems to ensure that every item in your home has its place. Identify the things you truly love and draw focus to them by getting rid of any unnecessary clutter.

Opposite, clockwise from top right: Gravlax smørbrød on a Mamsen’s dish; a table setting in Mamsen’s; a selfportrait by Edvard Munch on Viking Sun; a Weidemann painting on board Viking Sky Below: A cosy fireplace on board our fleet of ocean ships

COLUMN

NORSE HERITAGE While there are many beautiful spaces on board our ships, I am particularly fond of our Wintergarden on our Ocean ships where those who come here to relax or enjoy afternoon tea are surrounded by ironworks inspired by the gates of Oslo’s iconic Vigeland Sculpture Park. These are showcased Port and Starboard side and depict key Viking destinations from around the globe. The Wintergarden itself features a beautiful wooden canopy which represents Yggdrasil, the mythical Norse tree of life. Look closely and you’ll also notice two iron ravens – figures that also come from Norse mythology. Known as Huginn and Muginn, they are said to have flown around the world gathering intel for the Norse god Odin. The mythical pair is also depicted on an iron gate sitting on Odin’s shoulders and whispering the world’s secrets to him. We are proud of our heritage, and we love sharing Nordic traditions and folklore with our guests.

MAMSEN’S DINNERWARE

NORWEGIAN ART ON BOARD

On board our ships we have a comprehensive collection of Norwegian art spanning the spectrum from national romanticists to up-and-coming artists. Of special note are the works by Ørnulf Opdahl, a contemporary artist who focuses on the stark landscapes of northern Norway; Kåre Tveter, who painted moody scenes of Svalbard and is particularly important to me because he did a lot of his

work on the farm where my father grew up; Jakob Weidemann, a Modernist whose colourful pieces I find to be especially evocative; Hans Dahl, a national romanticist who painted bucolic scenes of country life; and of course, Edvard Munch, Norway’s most famous Expressionist. Those staying in our Owner’s Suites can enjoy original works by Tveter and Weidemann in the comfort of their rooms.

Mamsen’s, which is named after my beloved grandmother, is a deli where guests can enjoy delicious Norwegian treats throughout the day and evening. Many of the recipes used come straight from Mamsen’s kitchen, and the dishware also has a special story behind it. After my grandmother passed away, I was packing up her flat, when I came across the dishes that we’d used countless times before. I turned them over and noticed that the name of the pattern was ‘Tor Viking’. Viking’s Chairman, my father, is named Tor, so it seemed like a sign from above that we were meant to use these dishes on board our ships! Figgjo Flint resurrected the cherished pattern exclusively for Viking and called it Tor Viking II; we surprised my father with the dishware when the café first launched. Seeing this pattern brings back many wonderful memories of meals with Mamsen for both my father and I, and it brings us great joy to share it with our guests.

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VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | SUM MER 2019

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POSTCARD from

NORWAY Photo agency producer Catherine Collins shares her favourite destination and shore excursions from her recent cruise to Norway

PHOTOS: © CATHERINE COLLINS

arlier this year I had the best two weeks of my entire life. I was sailing on board Viking Sea on an Into the Midnight Sun voyage. Starting in Bergen with its exquisite wooden Hanseatic warehouses, we sailed up through the west coast archipelago of Norway (the Lofoten Islands) into the Arctic Circle, across to Shetland and Orkney, on to Edinburgh, and down the east coast of the United Kingdom to conclude the journey in London. Having never cruised before, I was utterly enchanted by the beauty of the ship as well as the thoughtfulness of those behind its design. I was also mesmerised by everything I saw from its decks – each destination was more spectacular than the last. However, if I had to pick one place as my favourite it would be Honningsvåg, a tiny Norwegian fishing port in the far north. This is down to the sheer thrills and excitement of the King Crab Safari excursion in the morning and the afternoon trip to North Cape. We sailed into Honningsvåg in the Barents Sea early in the morning of the 24 July. At 71˚ north, some 200 miles inside the Arctic Circle, the sun was already well above the horizon when I took my first shots at around 3am, but the day was a dull battleship grey with only a slight shimmer of pink compared with the firey glow of earlier skies. We had time to hug Bamse, the heroic dog who became the mascot of the Free Norwegian Forces during the Second World War, before getting kitted out in flotation suits for the King Crab Safari RIB ride. In true James Bond style, we sped across the Sarnesfjorden at high speed to the crab nets to collect our lunch. They are not called king crabs for nothing – they are ENORMOUS, weighing between 6 and 10 kilos each, and it took two men to lift the net into our RIB. We landed ashore in a small fishing settlement full of wild flowers where we were taught how to hold the crabs safely before watching them being prepared for lunch. The next step was to see the crabs expertly cooked in boiling water over an open fire in a traditional Sami tent. We could then eat this Arctic Circle bounty, and the flavour was sublime. So much

so that the silence of contentment was the only sound to be heard above the crackling fire. The trip back to the ship was thrilling – in and out of bays with sleep green slopes rising from the metallic sea, all at breakneck speed. I loved every second. The coach trip to North Cape in the afternoon was by comparison more sedate, but incredible nonetheless. As we climbed through the Arctic tundra dotted with reindeer to reach the plateau, which sits 1,000 feet above sea level, where the Norwegian and Barents seas meet, the fog was swirling all around us. It was quiet and eerie. Then, like magic, it cleared and we could see what has enticed explorers for generations. These shore excursions are typical of Viking’s attention to detail – enriching and enthralling, I would do them again in a heartbeat.

Clockwise, from above: Catherine Collins; a traditional Sami tent; typical wooden buildings housing shops line the cobbled streets; the view from Viking Sea

A 15-day Into the Midnight Sun journey, from Bergen to London, starts at £5,290pp in 2021. vikingcruises.co.uk

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PHOTOS: Â© ALAMY/ISTOCK

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Russian Discovery We join food writer Karen Burns-Booth as she journeys along the waterways of Russia on a river cruise from Moscow to St. Petersburg

ussia is a country that has constantly fascinated me. I remember reading Russian fairy tales with equal measures of joy and fear as a child, and now many years on, I am visiting on Viking’s Waterways of the Tsars river cruise. I hope you enjoy reading my travel diary as much as I enjoyed the voyage. DAY ONE:

After an early morning flight from London, we arrived in Moscow and were whisked off to Viking Akun, our floating home for the next ten days. (Akun was the nephew of Viking ruler Rurik, who was among the signatories of the 944 Rus-Byzantine Treaty named in the Russian Primary Chronicle.) My stateroom is large and spacious

with a veranda, which comes in handy for early morning viewing and scenic cruising. I began by exploring Viking Akun, which has a large main restaurant with amazing panoramic views, two bars, a Sun Deck, Library and a very enticing shop. Later, dinner was a delight, with a choice of delicious dishes from a set menu as well as the daily ‘destination menu’ which offers regional specialities. After a cocktail in the bar, I headed to bed early ahead of tomorrow’s full-day excursion around Moscow. DAY TWO, MOSCOW:

I was looking forward to today’s eight-hour Moscow Up-Close tour, which involved exploring the Russian capital by both Metro and foot. I had learnt about Moscow’s

Metro while studying for my history of art degree and it was fascinating to see the decorative stations firsthand. Their style and design ranges from over-the-top Rococo to elegant Art Deco, and they are adorned with a plethora of statues, chandeliers (yes, really!) and exquisite marble tiling. We rode the Metro for over an hour, alighting at certain stations to marvel at the art, before travelling on to Revolution Square and Red Square. We explored this area on our own and, as well as admiring St. Basil’s Cathedral and its dizzying collection of gaily painted domes,

Clockwise, from far left: One of Moscow’s ornate Metro stations; the Kremlin seen from the river; Karen Burns-Booth on board; an elegant Viking eatery

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I discovered GUM, the renowned Moscow department store, which by the way, has an extensive food hall to rival Harrods in London. Our sightseeing route then took us to the dazzling Cathedral of Christ the Savior, from where we crossed the nearby Patriarshy Bridge to Bolotnaya Square. The day ended with a fabulous Russian music and dance performance. We were entertained with a selection of classical and folk songs, played with traditional instruments, and there was lots of humour in the mix, too.

Crucian fried carp served in a dill sauce with slivers of crispy fried potatoes. A postprandial trip to the Cosmonaut Museum then enabled us to trace the history of Russia’s space exploration, spanning from the Sputnik era of the late 1950s to today’s space programme.

around the town and its numerous churches, we visited a Russian home for tea, cakes and some homemade hooch. After I had drank at least two shots, our hostess, Valeriya, proclaimed, via the translator, ‘please help yourself to more moonshine’ – a request I will be dining out on for years to come! This home visit was very humbling. Valeriya had baked cakes and biscuits, and offered us salad freshly picked from her garden, as well as homemade gherkins and bread. While we sipped tea, decanted from a highly decorative enamel samovar, she told us about her life. After graduating from university, she was ‘sent away’ thousands of miles from her home, where she worked until her recent retirement. She showed us around her small garden where she grows most of her own vegetables, but sadly, we didn’t get to see the still where the moonshine was made!

This page, top to bottom: Inside GUM Department Store; Assumption Cathedral in the Golden Ring city of Yaroslavl

DAY SIX, YAROSLAVL:

Today’s port of call was Yaroslavl, one of Russia’s Golden Ring cities. Our up-close excursion in the morning took us to Assumption Cathedral – the most beautifully decorated church of the voyage so far. The interior walls and ceilings were covered in exquisite murals, frescoes and icons, which seemed at odds with the very rustic looking wooden pews. After our tour we enjoyed some free time in the local market and managed to grab a

DAY THREE, MOSCOW:

Having two full days to explore Moscow turned out to be one of the best things about this cruise. We had some free time in the morning, so my friend and I took the Russian equivalent of an Uber (it’s called Yandex. Taxi in Russia, but can be accessed via the Uber app) into the city centre. We returned to GUM so we could browse the store in more depth, and were treated to caviar and vodka tastings as we manoeuvred among towers of exotic Russian chocolate, local cheeses and tea, and freshly baked bread and cakes. We stopped for lunch at Grand Café Zhivago, which is situated inside Hotel National, an elegant, although slightly faded, old-style hotel. Before dining we were treated to Samovar service – small cups of Russian tea were served with plates of sweet and savoury pasties. This was followed by a mouth-watering plate of

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DAY FOUR, THE MOSCOW CANAL:

Today I found myself in the middle of the Kremlin. The ancient fortress dates back to the 12th century and within its walls are stunning cathedrals, ornate palaces and museums. After our included excursion, I took an optional tour around the Kremlin Armory, which houses a multitude of priceless relics, including a collection of Fabergé eggs once belonging to tsars and tsarinas. The costume and carriage exhibition was wonderful, too, as was the huge collection of silverware. We were back on board Viking Akun in time for lunch and, afterwards, we set sail along the Moscow Canal, a man-made waterway that links the Moskva to the mighty Volga. As we passed forest-lined shores where small villages clung to the river banks, the exciting realisation set in that I was about to embark on the next step of my Russian adventure. DAY FIVE, UGLICH:

It was in Uglich that I had one of the most immersive experiences of the cruise. After a walking tour

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

As we passed forest-lined shores, the exciting realisation set in that I was about to embark on the next step of my Russian adventure

T R AV E L

coffee in a local coffee shop, even with our lack of Russian language and their lack of English! DAY SEVEN, KUZINO:

After an interesting tour around the Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery and another superb lunch on board Viking Akun, we set sail, passing through seven locks and alongside dense forests, charming churches and small waterside villages with pretty wooden houses. As a prelude to dinner, we all met in the bar and enjoyed watching the sun go down on the beautiful stretch of waterway with a cocktail in hand. DAY EIGHT, LAKE ONEGA AND KIZHI:

Today’s Kizhi Island Walking Tour was one of my favourite excursions of the entire cruise. All the houses, as well as the Transfiguration Church (which dominates the island), were built using wood from the Karelian Forests. We docked on Kizhi, which is on the northern side of Lake Onega, and were able to explore most of the island, which is an open-air UNESCO World Heritage Site. There’s a collection of historical Russian buildings that have all been painstakingly reconstructed and relocated here. This means you can experience barns, mills, a farmhouse and traditional banya (a Russian sauna) and the stunning fairy-tale church, with its five concentric rings of onion domes, as Russians would have done in years gone by.

DAY NINE, THE SVIR RIVER AND MANDROGY:

The Svir River or the ‘Blue Route’ connects Europe’s two largest freshwater lakes. Home to salmon and trout, the waterway is lined with numerous fishing huts. I even spotted an eagle swoop down and catch a fish early one morning – a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I’ll never forget. Mandrogy was once a thriving fishing village, but it was destroyed during World War II. However, it was reconstructed as an open-air museum in the 1990s and is now a centre devoted to keeping Russian traditions and art alive. I took part in an optional Matryoshka Painting workshop, where I learnt to paint the iconic nesting dolls that Russia is so famous for. We created our own set of three, using

watercolour and metallic paints, all while listening to our local guide’s stories about the area’s traditions and history. It’s also here that I purchased most of my souvenirs as the local craft shops offer only Russian-made goods. DAY TEN, ST. PETERSBURG:

We arrived in St. Petersburg in the morning. Sadly, it was my last day in Russia, although the Waterways of the Tsars cruise continues with a further three days in this beautiful and historic city, offering guests plenty of time to explore. Before my return flight home, I was able to visit the Imperial Porcelain Factory, where you can take a tour of the factory floor and museum as well as purchase some of the quintessential Russian-style imperial porcelain produced here – it really is exquisite. After a transfer to the airport, my magical and enchanting Viking river cruise was over, but what memories I have of this amazing journey – a truly remarkable and fascinating voyage through a vast and diverse country.

Clockwise, from above: Have a go at painting matryoshka; inside Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery; the pine-tree lined shores of Onega Lake; St Basil’s Cathedral is one of the must-see sites in Moscow

A 13-day Waterways of the Tsars journey in Russia, from Moscow to St. Petersburg, starts at £3,045pp in 2020.

WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Russian Recipes Food writer and chef Karen Burns-Booth serves up a delicious selection of winter recipes

HERRINGS UNDER A FUR COAT (SHUBA) SERVES 6 TO 8

This amusingly named recipe is for a traditional Russian dish that comprises pickled herring covered in a layered salad of potatoes, beetroot, carrots and onions, with a mayonnaise and sour cream dressing. Boiled eggs and dill pickles can also be added and the dish is always found on dinner tables throughout Russia at festive times, such as New Year and Christmas. I have taken a few liberties with my recipe, so the herring actually has its fur coat on the side, but you can, of course, cover your herring with the beetroot salad if you wish. INGREDIENTS:

• 6 pickled herring fillets, in oil and vinegar (chopped or halved) • 3 large potatoes, peeled, diced 60

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into small cubes and boiled until just soft • 2 large carrots, peeled, diced into small cubes, and boiled until just soft • 3 large cooked beetroots, diced into small cubes (NOT pickled beetroot) • 1 large red onion, peeled and very finely chopped • 1/2 teaspoon white pepper • 200ml mayonnaise • 100ml sour cream, plus extra for garnish • 4 hard-boiled eggs, cut into quarters • Fresh dill, to garnish • Dill pickles, to garnish METHOD:

1. Make sure the potatoes, carrots, beetroot and onion are all cut into the same size cubes. (Or you can grate them, but this is a messier and more time consuming process)

2. Mix the cooked potatoes, carrots, beetroot and onion together and then add the mayonnaise and sour cream. Season to taste with the white pepper, and mix well making sure you do not break or mash the vegetables. 3. Arrange the herring fillets on a serving platter and spoon the beetroot mixture over, and just to the side, of the herrings. Garnish with the boiled eggs, fresh dill and dill pickles. 4. For a more traditional serving idea, dice the herrings and spoon them into a serving bowl, then add the vegetables in this order: potatoes, carrots, onion, diced boiled-eggs and then the beetroot which has been mixed with the mayonnaise and sour cream. Finish by garnishing with fresh dill and extra boiled eggs, and serve with sour cream and dill pickles on the side of the dish.

RECIPES

RYE BREAD MAKES 1 LOAF Rye is a very popular ingredient in Russia and rye bread is a staple of the Russian diet. This recipe is for a simple light rye bread that is the perfect accompaniment to the Kislye Shchi cabbage soup (page 63), as well as being a lovely bread for sandwiches. The caraway seeds are optional, but I love the extra warmth they add. INGREDIENTS:

• 250g light rye flour • 150g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting • 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast • 1/2 teaspoon sea salt • 250ml tepid water mixed with 1 tablespoon honey • 1 teaspoon caraway seeds (optional) METHOD:

1. Tip both flours into a mixing bowl with the yeast, salt and caraway seeds, if using. Add the water and honey, and mix to form a dough. Add more water if necessary as rye flour is quite dry and can absorb a lot of liquid. 2. Tip the dough onto a floured board and knead for at least 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. Place the dough in an oiled bowl, cover, and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours until well risen. 3. Tip the dough back onto the floured board and ‘knock it back’ before shaping into an oval loaf, and placing into a floured banneton proving basket. Cover and allow to rise in a warm place again for about 1 hour, until its doubled in size. 4. Pre-heat oven to 220C/200C Fan/Gas 7. Uncover the loaf and slash the top in several places. Bake for 30 minutes until browned and hollow sounding when tapped underneath. Allow to cool and rest on a wire rack for about 15 to 20 minutes before slicing.

NEW YEAR’S EVE OLIVIER SALAD SERVES 6 TO 8

This must be Russia’s best-loved salad. It’s always served on New Year’s Eve and at other special celebrations, parties and family gatherings. Sometimes called olivie salad, it’s named after its inventor, Lucian Olivier, who was a Belgian chef at The Hermitage (one of the most famous restaurants in Moscow) during the 1860s. The ingredients most commonly used are potatoes, carrots, peas, onion, hard-boiled eggs, dill gherkins and either diced cooked chicken or smoked garlic sausage. INGREDIENTS:

• 900g waxy potatoes • 1 large carrot • 125g frozen peas, defrosted and cooked • 1 large onion, peeled and finely diced • 450g diced smoked garlic sausage • 3 hard-boiled eggs, finely diced

• 3 large dill gherkins, finely diced • Fresh dill, finely chopped • 3 bay leaves • 1 teaspoon black peppercorns • 250ml mayonnaise • Salt and white pepper, to taste METHOD:

1. Place the potatoes and carrot in a large saucepan with the bay leaves and peppercorns and fill with water to just cover the vegetables. Bring to the boil and then simmer until the vegetables are soft but are not falling apart. Drain, discard the bay leaves and peppercorns, and allow to cool before dicing them into small cubes of the same size. 2. Place the cubed potatoes and carrots into a mixing bowl and add the cooked and cooled peas, diced onion, diced sausage, hard-boiled eggs and dill gherkins. Mix well and add the fresh dill. 3. Add the mayonnaise, salt and pepper to taste; mix well and chill for at least 1 hour before spooning the salad in to a serving bowl. Garnish with dill, then serve. WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

SIBERIAN PELMENI WITH DILL AND SOUR CREAM SERVES 6

I first enjoyed these on my Viking Waterways of the Tsars river cruise, and I also helped make some with the executive chef in a special cookery demonstration on board Viking Akun. These little dumplings are filled with seasoned minced beef and pork, and are made in huge quantities just as the first frost arrives in Siberia, with the whole community coming out to share in making them. They are set out on large boards to freeze in the cold, and are then stored in sacks outside, so they remain frozen throughout the winter. Pelmini are also popular among hunters, who take a few bags with them on their hunts, and then just throw them into a pan of boiling water over the wood fire to defrost and cook.

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INGREDIENTS:

• Pelmeni Dough: • 250g plain flour • 250ml milk or water • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil • 2 large eggs, beaten • Pelmeni Filling: • 450g minced beef and pork, you can buy this as a mixture in most supermarkets • 1 large onion, peeled and finely diced • Salt and white pepper, to taste • To Serve: • 250ml sour cream • Fresh dill • Butter, optional METHOD:

1. For the filling, mix the beef and pork together with the onion, salt and pepper until amalgamated. 2. For the dough, mix the flour with the milk or water, salt, vegetable

oil and the beaten eggs and knead on a floured board until you have a smooth and elastic dough. 3. Split the dough into 3 portions. Take one and roll it out onto a large floured board. 4. Using a 5cm (2”) scone/biscuit cutter (or a water glass) stamp out rounds of the dough. 5. Fill each round with a teaspoon of the filling and fold it over into a half moon shape. Pinch both ends together to seal the opposite sides to make round parcels/dumplings. At this stage the pelmeni can be frozen or cooked straight away. 6. To cook the pelmeni, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and drop them into the water; boil for 15 to 20 minutes. 7. To serve, spoon the pelmeni into a large serving bowl and spoon some sour cream over the top before adding fresh dill. Pelmeni can be served with just butter too.

RECIPES

KISLYE SHCHI – RUSSIAN SOUR CABBAGE SOUP SERVES 6 TO 8

Russia is a country of many soups, the most well-known being borscht. But there are many other traditional soup recipes, such as kislye shchi. Translated as ‘sour cabbage’, it has sauerkraut as its main ingredient and is classic winter comfort food. It’s always eaten with rye bread and topped with the ubiquitous sour cream, as well as chopped fresh dill. It is easily adapted to be vegetarian, too, just omit the meat and add more mushrooms and potatoes.

INGREDIENTS:

METHOD:

• 1.8 litres chicken stock, fresh or made with 3 chicken stock cubes and boiling water • 3 medium potatoes, peeled and sliced or diced • 450g sauerkraut, drained • 125g shredded fresh cabbage • 1 large onion, peeled and diced • 1 large carrot, peeled and diced • 50g rehydrated dried mushrooms, such as porcini • 125g cooked chicken, bacon or ham, shredded or diced • Salt and white pepper to taste • Sour cream and fresh dill to serve and garnish

1. Bring the chicken stock to the boil in a large saucepan and add the potatoes, sauerkraut, onion and carrot and simmer with the lid on the pan until the vegetables are tender. This should take about 10 to 15 minutes. 2. Add the mushrooms, chicken, bacon or ham and season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer for a further 5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. 3. Serve in soup bowls with sour cream and fresh dill, as well as slices of rye bread (see page 61 for a simple recipe). WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Viking BOOK CLUB If you’re looking for reading recommendations for the year ahead, look no further. Here is a round-up of our readers’ best books…

JOIN OUR BOOK CLUB

www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/why-viking/community/book-club

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

BOOK CLUB

A GENTLEMAN IN MOSCOW BY AMOR TOWLES

BECOMING BY MICHELLE OBAMA

Penguin, £8.99

Penguin, £25

Sentenced to house arrest in a luxury hotel in Moscow, Count Alexander Rostov is forced to re-examine the parameters of his life. The result is a wonderfully inventive story of salvation, and a charming and insightful study of a cast of colourful characters. A GOD IN RUINS BY KATE ATKINSON Penguin, £8.99

Teddy Todd, heroic World War II bomber pilot, must navigate the perils and progress of post-war life in the 20th century. Devastating at times, this witty book looks at the effect that war has on the lives of those who live through it, as well as the lives of the subsequent generations. ALL THE LIGHT WE CANNOT SEE BY ANTHONY DOERR Harper Collins, £8.99

Interweaving the themes of science, morality and Nazi occupation, this Pulitzer Prize-winning book features a blind French girl, Marie-Laure, and a German orphan, Werner, whose paths collide in Nazi-occupied France. Deeply moving, the novel illuminates the power of kindness in the darkest of times and it is now being adapted for television by Netflix.

This memoir by the US’s former first lady is an intimate account of her life, from her childhood in Chicago and studying at Princeton to her time on the campaign trail and years in the White House. THE KNIFE BY JO NESBO Penguin, £20

Fans of rogue police officer Harry Hole will be holding on for dear life as he faces his darkest case yet. A chance for a new start goes wrong, and he ends up in his own worst nightmare. THE TATTOOIST OF AUSCHWITZ BY HEATHER MORRIS Zaffre Publishing, £8.99

Based on the recollections of one man, Morris tells the story of Slovakian Jew Lale Sokolv as he falls in love with Gita, a girl he tattoos at the concentration camp. An enduring tale of love, courage and survival. THE WOMAN IN THE WHITE KIMONO BY ANA JOHNS Legend, £8.99

YOUR FAVOURITE GENRES Fiction

63%

Crime, Thriller, Mystery

62%

Destination related travel guide

51%

History

18%

Romance

18%

Inspired by true stories, this book follows a woman on a journey to discover the true meaning of home, and another caught between her culture and her heart. A moving voyage to Japan, both geographical and emotional.

YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO READ ON BOARD In your stateroom or balcony

86%

In the lounge, living room or lobby area

60%

By the main pool or infinity pool

33%

In the Aquavit Terrace

25%

In the Wintergarden

16%

THE SEVEN SISTERS BY LUCINDA RILEY Pan Macmillan, £8.99

This page: Take your pick from these much-loved reads suggested by Viking guests

An epic story of love and loss, this novel takes you from the shores of Lake Geneva across the world to Rio de Janeiro. The level of historical detail is immense and the central mystery is expertly crafted. It’s also the first book in a series of seven based on the Seven Sisters of the Pleiades. THE SALT PATH BY RAYNOR WYNN Penguin, £14.99

After finding themselves unexpectedly homeless, Raynor Wynn and her husband Moth, who is terminally ill, bravely decide to walk the South West Coast Path, from Minehead down to Lands End, ending in Poole. A journey of self-discovery and survival, grief and the healing power of nature. THE LOST MAN BY JANE HARPER Little, Brown, £7.99

The Australian outback and its unrelenting sun is the setting for this atmospheric and shocking novel, covering the themes of family anguish, murder, grief and heartbreak. The desolate landscape and the isolation of the people living in it are at the centre of this gripping tale. WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

CITY GUIDES Our destinations and shore excursions are at the centre of every Viking cruise. Weâ€™re always on the lookout for new experiences, and these travel guides are packed with local tips to inspire your next adventure...

Page 68 St. Petersburg Russiaâ€™s imperial capital wows with its sheer grandeur, cultural jewels and fascinating history

Page 70 Istanbul Where the East and West collide, this intoxicating metropolis is a feast for all the senses

Page 72 Rio de Janeiro Samba beats, iconic sites and sublime landscapes seduce in this vibrant South American hotspot

St. Petersburg Known as the ‘Venice of the North’, St. Petersburg is the spectacular cultural capital of Russia, offering bucketloads of architecture and art

ounded by Russian Tsar Peter the Great in 1703, St. Petersburg was the capital of the Russian Empire, intended to showcase its growing global stature. Consequently, the city is filled with impressive palaces designed by the leading architects of the time. With a grid network of streets served by buses and a metro system, St. Petersburg is easy to navigate, so you won't miss the world-class ballets, operas and classical music playing in theatres across the city. Start with the neoclassical grandeur of Palace Square; site of 300 years of history, including the October Revolution, as well as the Winter Palace. Today the former Tsar residence houses the second largest museum in the world: The Hermitage, which has a huge collection of early 20th century art alongside other antiques. Continue taking in the city's breath-taking grandeur with a walk down main street Nevsky Prospect, or take a quieter stroll along one

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

of the many canals. Tour St. Isaac’s Cathedral, whose famous gold cupola offers the best views across the city, and don’t forget the iconic Saviour on the Spilled Blood, the incredible Orthodox church built to commemorate Tsar Alexander II.

Don’t miss

Fast Facts Rivers and canals in St. Petersburg stretch to 300km and are a wonderful way to tour the city.

•The Peterhof Grand Palace is a beautiful house with grandiose gardens built for Peter the Great. It features more than 80 original marble statues and sculptures. •Zayachy (Hare) Island lies across the Neva River and thanks to a bloody history houses some interesting museums. Adjacent is The Bronze Vasilevsky Island, offering views Horseman of the Winter Palace. Stay in the statue of Peter Strelka neighbourhood for dinner – it's where locals like to eat out. the Great sits •The Fabergé Museum has the on the Thunder world's largest collection of Carl Stone pedestal Fabergé, including nine Imperial that originally Easter Eggs. Founded to study and weighed 1500 preserve Russia's cultural heritage, tonnes. it’s well worth a visit to see these iconic jewelled masterpieces. •Inside a converted bread factory Out of nearly on Ligovsky Avenue is the Etagi 600 bridges in Loft Gallery, hosting contemporary and around Russian and international artists. St. Petersburg, Check out the views from the terrace, as well as pop-up shops, 22 are street food, concerts and films. drawbridges •Arts Square is a leafy plaza with which attract the grand Mikhailovsky Palace at its a crowd when centre. Inside, there's the Russian they raise Museum, as well as the Mussorgsky to let ships Theatre and the Bolshoi Zal, home of the St. Petersburg Philarmonia. through.

Eating & Drinking

Traditional Russian dishes like Borsch, Stroganoff, Olivier (potato and vegetable) salad or Solyanka (a thick, spicy and sour soup) are often hearty fares, but European and Asian influences are also common in the city's cuisine. PALKIN ££££

Dating back to 1785, Palkin is one of the oldest restaurants in the city. The traditional Russian fare served as this elegant eatery is exceptional but the caviar, oysters and crab are also highly recommended. SEVERYANIN £££

The perennially popular Severyanin feels like dining in someone’s 1930s home, complete with vintage photos, wallpaper and a piano. Among the varied menu's top picks are the earthy mushroom soup and the Baltic flounder in wine.

T R AV E L

From top to bottom: The Cathedral of Our Savior on Spilled Blood is one of St. Petersburg's most iconic sites; borsch is a Russian soup made of beetroot

PELMENYA ££

Choose a high or low stool in this restaurant found below a distinctive brick arch by the river, and select from an array of traditional Russian pelmeni (dumplings), ravioli or Japanese gyoza.

Insider Tips

ZOOM CAFÉ £££

The cosy and homely Zoom Café (with a kids’ corner) can get very busy so you might have to wait for a table. Its eclectic menu features Japanese Teriyaki chicken, and salmon and cream cheese blini. There's a gallery and library too.

MANSARDA RESTAURANT ££££

This upscale venue offers exquisitely presented, modern fine dining in a light and airy restaurant, with spectacular views of St. Isaac’s gold dome. Try the warm chef ’s salad with seafood or the fregola from a menu of the latest culinary trends.

MIDNIGHT SUN

COCKTAIL HOUR

SHOW-STEALER

In June, the sun never really sets below the horizon, so the city buzzes with late-night activity in the famous ’White Nights' – join revellers at festivals, concerts and parties.

There's a rising trend for speakeasy-style bars in St. Petersburg, so check out hidden basement bar El Copitas, named one of the World’s 50 Best Bars, and sample one of its unusual cocktails.

Don’t miss the elaborate frescos and glittering chandeliers inside the Mariinsky Theatre. Grab a cheap balcony ticket to an opera or ballet to experience the beloved building at its best.

WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

From top to bottom: The Blue Mosque gets its nickname from the blue Iznik tiles that adorn its interior; Galata Tower stands out on the city skyline

Istanbul The city where East meets West is not only a melting pot of history, religion and food but is also brimming with contagious passion and warm hospitality

owhere encapsulates Europe’s chequered history better than Istanbul. Straddling the busy Bosphorus Strait and teetering between two continents, the city has played host to the Greeks, the Romans and the Turks. It’s been bestowed upon by all three, leaving a trail of treasures and intrigue, from the holy domes of the Blue Mosque to the sordid secrets of Topkapi Palace. The walled confines of historic Sultanahmet, Istanbul’s old city, is an excellent place to start exploring, before throwing yourself into the colourful and chaotic Grand Bazaar and nearby Spice Market. For more relaxed browsing, Feriköy Organic Market has stalls piled high with local, haggle-free produce. A top remedy for this sensory overload are the Turkish Baths, especially in opulent-tiled 16th-century venues like Kilic Ali Paşa Hamami. While culture vultures will make a beeline for the infamous Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, it’s

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worth taking time out for the city’s subtler charms, too. Get a sense of daily life in the entertainment hubs surrounding the Galata Tower, and take a ferry over to the city's Asian shores to see Istanbul anew from Kadıköy and Moda. The waterside art gallery, Istanbul Modern, is a fantastic way to celebrate Istanbul’s contemporary creative scene.

Don’t miss

•The 1,500-year-old Basilica Cistern is the largest of hundreds of ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city. Its 336 columns were said to be built by 7,000 slaves. •For an instant cultural fix, head to the Hagia Sophia and its neighbour, the Blue Mosque. The former is now a museum but keep eyes peeled for unique details in the mosaics and graffiti spanning Christian and Muslim history. •Topkapi Palace can suffer from overcrowding, so pick a good time to visit or head to the quieter Harem section with its beautiful tiles and intriguing history. Once legs (and minds) get weary, the café offers terrific views over the strait. •Whether you’re looking to shop or not, the Grand Bazaar’s 4,000odd shops and stalls are a must, and getting a little lost amid the narrow alleyways is all part of the charm. •The view from the top of Galata Tower is worth the steep climb up. After descending, take some time to stroll through the pulsating streets of Karaköy, Galata and Beyoğlu for a slice of modern Istanbul below.

Fast Facts Istanbul is the only city in the world that is both Europe and Asia, geographically. Istanbul is one of the biggest cities in the world, with a population of 15 million. Like Rome, Istanbul was founded on seven hills. The city has a total of 3,113 mosques – one on every street corner.

Eating & Drinking

With so many influences at play, Istanbul’s food scene is a continually evolving collection of tastes from market stall cheap eats and kebabs to Michelin-starred fusion menus on rooftop idylls. MÜRVER ££££

Unsurprising perhaps given its location in hip Karaköy, Mürver’s menu is of the moment, featuring organic produce, slow-cooked meat and fish parcels cooked over wood fires. Everything is made all the more sensational thanks to panoramic views from the rooftop. KHORASANI ££

All kinds of kebabs are served up with filling plates of meze (starters), dips and lavas (unleavened bread) in this low-key ocakbaşı (grill house). Situated on a quiet cobbled street off bustling Divan Yolu.

T R AV E L

ASITANE £££

This sophisticated garden restaurant attached to the Kariye Hotel offers an authentic and delicious taste of Ottoman Turkey. Dishes include Mahmudiye; a slow-cooked chicken stew served with rice and lava.

Insider Tips

ARCADIA BLUE HOTEL £££

If you only manage one rooftop drink in Istanbul, make sure it's at this hotel bar. Go after dinner to experience the romantic twinkling lights of the old city and the Sea of Marmara at night.

MIKLA ££££

An early champion of the food movement called New Anatolian, Mikla serves up dishes celebrating the best of Turkish ingredients in a distinctly European setting. The rooftop views are especially romantic as the sun starts to dip below the city skyline.

STREET-SIDE BITES

BUILDING BRIDGES

MYSTICAL MOMENTS

There's a hidden culinary delight at every turn in Istanbul; don’t shy away from hole-in-the-wall flatbread joints like Halil Lahmacun, near Kadikoy market, for a quick snack at any time of the day.

It’s worth lingering on Galata Bridge – not only does it span the Golden Horn, a harbour and inlet of the Bosphorus, but it is also where fishermen gather for fun creating quite a spectacle.

To better understand the Sufi community and hear the story of Sufism, head to a Whirling Dervish ceremony (or sema) in one of the city’s Sufi monasteries or at the Galata Mevlevi Museum.

WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

From top to bottom: Fringed by idyllic beaches and green forested mountains, the city's backdrop is sublime; sample a caiprinha, Brazil's national cocktail

Rio de Janeiro Arguably the most iconic South American city, Brazil’s former capital offers a cinematic backdrop, a wealth of experiences and pulsating samba beats sure to get you in the party mood

razil’s second largest city, Rio de Janeiro, plays host to more than 6.5 million visitors each year, and with so many iconic features, it’s easy to see why. Never has the phrase ‘culture clash’ been more appropriate than when describing Rio – sights range from the world’s most renowned statue of Jesus to its annual Mardi Gras celebrations. Then, as well as housing some of Brazil’s best museums and galleries, Rio has a vibrant nightlife and, of course, those incredible beaches. The city is big, but several of the must-see sights are grouped relatively close together, so start with a cable car trip up to the beautiful Sugar Loaf Mountain and soak in the views overlooking the city and its bay. You may also spot a marmoset here. Back on the ground take a stroll along Copacabana Beach, pausing to people watch and sip a caipirinha. You'll probably catch the local game, foot-volley (volleyball using feet) here, too.

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

From the beach take the tram or minibus up to Christ the Redeemer. There are 200 steps to climb or you could opt to take the escalator. On a clear day there are spectacular 360-degree views but, beware, there can be big crowds to negotiate.

Don’t miss

• Cariocas – the name for Rio

residents – have invented a bunch of things besides foot-volley. This includes their own samba. Visit the neighbourhood of Lapa to soak up the atmosphere of live music, cocktails, tapas and dancing. • Take a guided tour through The Jardim Botanico (Botanical Gardens), which dates from 1808 and contains more than 6,000 exotic and indigenous species of plants, birds and animals. • Ipanema Beach is a two-mile stretch of idyllic white sand with breath-taking vistas of the neighbouring mountains. Blend your sunbathing with shopping, skewer shrimps from a beach barbecue or a local art gallery visit. • With views across to the Rio Niteroi Bridge, the Centro district houses Museu do Amanhã, a science museum; the modern art hub, Museu de Arte do Rio; and the Ilha Fiscal, a neo-Gothic castle. • For some architectural heritage, take a stroll through the cobbled streets of Santa Teresa, wandering by grand mansions and pavement mosaics. There are also lots of local craft stores, traditional Brazilian restaurants and bohemian galleries.

Fast Facts Cariocas call their home the Cidade Marvilhosa or marvellous city. Carnival was exported to Brazil from the Portuguese tradition of celebration at Easter, and dates back to the 15th century. Superfood Açaí is a traditional ingredient in Brazil and you’ll find it in many popular desserts and smoothies.

EATING & DRINKING

Brazilians love their meat, so there's no shortage of restaurants offering juicy burgers and steaks, but you'll also find fruity salads and an array of fish dishes. Don’t be afraid to also try traditional pastels (filled pastries) from street-side stalls. PÉRGULA ££££

Pérgula is the relaxed, semi-fine dining offering from the Belmond Copacabana Palace. Watch chefs at work in the show kitchen while you dine on international or local dishes presented with expert flair. GALETO 183 ££

This is where to come for big portions of great value, no frills food close to the sights of Centro. The house speciality is chicken (galeto) but the tenderloin is also recommended, as is the Angu do Gomes (oxtail ragout with polenta).

T R AV E L

BRASEIRO DA GÁVEA £££

If steak is your thing, check out this barbecue-style restaurant close to the Jardim Botanico. You should try the traditional farofa (toasted breadcrumbs with cassava) and Portuguese potatoes.

Insider Tips

CAFÉ DO ALTO £££

Good for vegetarians and vegans, this traditional little café also does a fantastic moqueca de peixe (shrimp casserole) as well as chicken dishes and curries. There's a very good selection of local beers to try, too.

RESTAURANTE APRAZÍVEL ££££

Featured in the Michelin Guide, Aprazível provides outdoor fine dining with fantastic views from a prime city high-point. Order the grilled fish or traditional roasted, rustic dishes and feast on the fresh, local ingredients of Brazil.

GUAVA GOODNESS

IN THE SADDLE

BRAZILIAN BEATS

Try the local guava ketchup on your burger for a uniquely delicious experience. Similar to the tomato variety but with an extra tropical zing, this fruity condiment will leave you wanting more.

Use the bike hire scheme for a cheap, fun way to get around, especially along the coast. Rio has 435 kilometres of bike lanes and most urbanised areas are flat, despite the surrounding mountains.

For a taste of the local food, art and music all under one roof, visit the Feira de São Cristóvão. With 600 stalls, the fair is enormous. Go at the weekend to catch live bands and samba groups.

WINTER 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

T R AV E L

My UKRAINE

Viking UK Senior Marketing Executive Olya Krvavych on why you should visit her homeland

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | WINTER 2019

study law, but changed my career path later in life. I am now part of the incredible Viking team. When I was 10, the Soviet Union collapsed and Ukraine finally got its independence back. Unfortunately, changes are not happening as quickly as everyone would like, but I still believe that this hard-working, talented nation will one day prosper. Ukrainians are famous for their contribution to the world of mathematics, literature, sports and music. You may be surprised to learn that the beautiful ‘Carol of the Bells’ was adapted from the famous Ukrainian carol ‘Shchedryk’, arranged by the composer Mykola Leontovych. Ukraine is incredible to visit. The Dnieper is one of Europe's major rivers, and Viking is the only cruise company that will take you on this brilliant journey in comfort. During the Kiev, Black Sea & Bucharest voyage, you’ll visit Kiev, dating back to the late 9th century.

The site was on the trade route that connected Scandinavia and the Roman Empire. One of my favourite cities, elegant Odessa, will surprise you with its stunning architecture, tree-lined avenues and beaches. On your journey you will enjoy delicious food, cooked from the most humble ingredients. Make sure you try borscht, our traditional beetroot soup. There is a saying that no matter how many times you cook it, it will never taste the same. My favourite food is varenyky (potato dumplings). If you ask for it to be served with fried onion and sour cream you will experience it at its absolute best. Above all, you will be welcomed by some of the friendliest people on the planet.

Clockwise, from below: Varenyky (dumplings) is Olya’s favourite dish; St. Sophia Cathedral in Kiev; Olya Krvavych

orn in the 80s in Lviv (western Ukraine), I grew up in a home of scientists, a profession that was very highly regarded in the Soviet Union at that time. It may come as a surprise, but Ukraine gave me the best childhood, with caring parents, a fantastic education and culture. Living in a communist country was not always bad. We had free access to full-time education, including nurseries, schools and universities. On the downside, some of the basic human rights, like freedom of thought, free speech, movement, and religion, were breached. The Greek-Catholic Church was forced underground for more than four decades until 1989. I was baptised at home with the blinds closed. To grow in your career you were expected to be a member of the Communist Party. This was probably the reason I grew up with a strong desire to become a human rights lawyer. I pursued this dream and went to

Artwork by Rebecca Campbell for Opera Holland Park

Exceptional opera in one of the most beautiful parks in London

Opera Holland Park

2020 Season

Eugene Onegin Tchaikovsky Rigoletto Verdi The Merry Widow Lehár a double bill of

Margot la Rouge Delius & Le Villi Puccini and Gilbert and Sullivan’s The Pirates of Penzance

2 June–8 August 2020 Booking opens in the new year Find out more at www.operahollandpark.com

455 cities 106 countries Countless discoveries Where in the world do you want to go? Do you want to explore the epic scenery of Scandinavia? Or discover the Caribbean, and a diﬀerent island every day? Do you want to explore more of Europe, with its rich history and culture? Or discover the mystical beauty of Asia? Are you inspired to visit the vibrant cities and natural wonders of Australia and New Zealand? Or intrigued by the ancient civilisations of South America? Wherever you want to explore, Viking will take you there in comfort, on the most enriching journey.

Eight-day river cruises from £1,645pp Eight-day ocean cruises from £1,990pp Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices & availability are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom on a Danube Waltz river cruise on selected dates in 2020 and a Deluxe Veranda stateroom on Iberian Explorer ocean cruise departing in January 2021. Single supplements apply. Prices valid until 31 December 2019. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.