Explore More Spring 2021

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EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Spring 2021 £3.95

SPIRITUAL VOYAGE Natural beauty and heritage in Japan

READERS’ EDITION

• GUEST REVIEWS • HOME COOKING • BOOK CLUB

OUTDOOR LIVING

Discover the design behind the onboard exterior living spaces

Embark on the ultimate adventure to the Arctic or Antarctica Discover the true Arctic on a journey to the top of the world, where polar bears reign and blue ice floats serenely on the horizon. Or explore Antarctica, the Last Continent, that is covered in ice and teeming with penguins, seals and whales.

Our new expedition journeys Arctic Adventure and Antarctic Explorer reveal a breathtaking view of the planet in its purest state, and take you to pristine landscapes to see wildlife in its natural habitat.

To allow you to best explore these unrivalled destinations, we have assembled a world-class expedition team to lead you on engaging shore landings, and esteemed scientific partnerships to develop enriching onboard programmes.

The expedition ship perfected, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris are home to just 378 guests, and build on our legacy of exploration, with many industry firsts. Availability is limited and we are now taking bookings for our 2022 voyages. Join us on the ultimate adventure aboard a ship that offers the ultimate in comfort.

Find out more about our extraordinary expedition ships and our equally extraordinary journeys to the Arctic, Antarctica and the Great Lakes. Call 0800 014 7538 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk

WELCOME

Welcome to our Spring edition of Explore More To celebrate a new season, and to mark the start of an exciting new chapter as we gear up for travelling once again, we are delighted to bring you a new issue in which you – our guests and readers – are centre stage.

In this special reader edition, we have gathered reviews from guests who have travelled with us to regions all over the world. We have loved reading about your travel experiences, learning what your highlights have been, and gaining an insight into a few of the things you are most looking forward to when it comes to future trips. We have also enjoyed seeing photographs of the recipes you have cooked up, inspired by your travels, and we have loved your thoughtful book reviews. Thank you so much for all your contributions!

For those of you dreaming of new adventures, we have rounded up ten of our favourite sights to see in Egypt, and we take a look at the history and geography of the Douro River as it winds its way across Spain and Portugal. For those of you at home, Paul Hervey-Brookes has plenty of gardening advice, and we find out what Opera Holland Park is planning this summer.

Above all, we hope that this issue finds you well, and we very much look forward to spending time with you all on board again soon.

With best wishes,

Managing Director, Viking UK

 Tweet us: @VikingCruises

Like us: facebook.com/VikingCruisesUK

Follow us: instagram.com/vikingcruises

Email us: uk-marketing@vikingcruises.com

Find out more about the Viking Explorer Society on our website

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Co n t e n t s more

EXPLORE

IN THIS ISSUE...

14 TOP 10 EGYPT Highlights from the ancient world

See more of the world with Viking / Spring 2021 £3.95

SPIRITUAL VOYAGE

18 A TASTE OF SALAMANCA Kay Wilkie reports back

Natural beauty and heritage in Japan

from her first visit to the ancient university city

READERS’ EDITION

24 ON DECK Exploring the outdoor spaces on Viking ships

• GUEST REVIEWS • HOME COOKING • BOOK CLUB

32 ALASKAN ADVENTURE Viking guests Sheila and Ed Davies discover the majestic landscapes of Alaska and Canada 44 NIGHT AT THE OPERA We find out more about the new outdoor setting at Opera Holland Park

OUTDOOR LIVING

Discover the design behind the onboard exterior living spaces

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Cover: Mount Fuji, in Japan, is framed by overhanging branches

60 DISCOVERING THE DOURO An exploration of the river that weaves its way through Portuguese countryside 70 GREAT LAKES EXPLORED The secrets of the Great Lakes that border Canada and the US

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FEATURES

REGULARS

10 VENICE TO ATHENS Travelling friends Val Hills and

6 VIKING NEWS The latest news and events as well as an interview with Lizze Cho, CEO of London-based charity Nova

20 AMAZING ASIA Lindsay and Fiona Robinson share their experience of travelling from Bangkok to Tokyo

13 CITY GUIDE: ATHENS Greece’s capital is one for the

30 IN THE GARDEN Award-winning garden designer, Paul Hervey-Brookes, marks a new season with historical anecdotes

23 CITY GUIDE: TOKYO Futuristic skyscrapers and

36 A CULINARY JOURNEY Delectable dishes inspired

40 SPRING FLING Bright colours and fun accessories

41 INSPIRING PEOPLE The composer Debbie Wiseman discusses her wide-ranging musical career

66 VIKING BOOK CLUB Readers review a selection of novels to accompany you on your next adventure

54 MY ANTARCTIC Dr. Damon Stanwell-Smith reflects

68 KARINE’S COLUMN Executive Vice President Karine

56 COME FLY WITH ME Artist Susan Beal tells us about

74 CITY GUIDE: TORONTO An in depth look at Canada’s largest city, known for its cosmopolitanism and arts

Ann Gregory reminisce about their Adriatic voyage

by Viking’s voyages across the world

on his connection to this icy world

her latest project, sculpting 100 polar birds out of felt

bucket list, blending urban cool with ancient spectacles

ancient temples, the city of Tokyo fuses old and new

to bring your wardrobe to life this season

Hagen shares her experiences of being back on board

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Viking NEWS A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking

THE LONELINESS OF THE SOUL We are excited to announce that the Royal Academy will be re-opening to the public on 18th May, meaning visitors will have the chance to view the Viking-sponsored Tracey Emin/Edvard Munch: The Loneliness of the Soul exhibition in person, after it was extended until 1st August.

The exhibition features more than 25 of Emin’s works including paintings, some of which are on display for the first time, as well as neons and sculptures. These works, which explore the loneliness of the soul, have been chosen by Emin to sit alongside a carefully considered selection of 18 oils and watercolours drawn from MUNCH’s rich collection and archives in Oslo, Norway.

NILE NEWS Viking Aton, a new state-of-the-art river vessel, will be the latest addition to Viking’s Egypt fleet. Inspired by the design of the award-winning Viking Longships, and built specifically to navigate the Nile, Viking Aton is scheduled to debut in September 2022, sailing on the popular Pharaohs & Pyramids itinerary.

Hosting 82 guests in 41 staterooms, Viking Aton will join its sister ships Viking Osiris and Viking Ra in Egypt, where Viking is the first and only Western company to build, own and operate ships on the Nile.

“Egypt remains a top destination for many of our guests who are inspired to discover the rich history and beauty of the region,” said Torstein Hagen, Chairman of Viking. “The addition of Viking Aton is a reflection of our continued investment in Egypt; we look forward to introducing the country’s cultural treasures to even more Viking guests in the future.”

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NEWS

BEST IN SHOW WE WERE THRILLED TO BE NAMED RIVER CRUISE LINE OF THE YEAR IN THE 2020 FOOD AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE READER AWARDS RECENTLY. THE WINNERS WERE ANNOUNCED AT A VIRTUAL CEREMONY EARLIER THIS YEAR AND WE ARE VERY GRATEFUL TO ALL THOSE WHO VOTED FOR US, THANK YOU! “OUR READERS KNOW THEIR STUFF WHEN IT COMES TO CRUISES, SO TO CROWN VIKING THE CHAMPION IN THIS CATEGORY FOR FIVE YEARS IN A ROW IS A TRUE MARK OF EXCELLENCE,” SAID THE JUDGES.

SUMMER SHOWTIME RHS Hampton Court Palace Garden Festival is set to return this summer, after the Royal Horticultural Society confirmed it will take place 5 – 11 July. We are delighted that Viking will continue its long-standing relationship with the RHS, and will be the headline sponsor of this year’s event.

Visitors to the shows will be able to discover innovative gardens and fantastic florals alongside a shopper’s paradise of plants, tools, sundries and accessories to decorate all gardens, big or small, plus plenty of activities, talks and demonstrations.

Show gardens will shine a light on key issues and environmental

challenges and there’ll be a brand new RHS Flower Market.

“After months of planning and uncertainty we can’t wait to return to what we do best, putting on our famous RHS Flower Shows for all to enjoy,” said Helena Pettit, RHS Director of Gardens and Shows.

“We have seen a huge increase in people taking up gardening and growing in the last year.

Bringing the horticultural world together again will be significant for the industry and we are continuing to plan for different scenarios to ensure we can open our gates safely and implement social distancing measures if still necessary.”

VIKING VENUS GODMOTHER

We are pleased to announce that British journalist and broadcaster Anne Diamond will be the godmother of Viking’s seventh ocean ship, Viking Venus, due to debut this spring.

Anne is well known for her career in television that has spanned more than 40 years, as well as her pioneering cot death campaign, following the death of her own son Sebastian.

Over the last year, Anne has been a key figure on Viking’s award-winning enrichment channel, Viking.TV. “Back in March 2020, at the start of the global lockdown, I rang my good friend Karine to ask if there was anything I could do,” recalls Anne.

“Never did I think it might lead to such a fascinating journey. But exhilarating journeys are what Viking is all about!”

“We are delighted and honoured to have Anne serve as the godmother of Viking Venus,” said Karine Hagen, Executive Vice President of Viking.

“Since the day we paused operations, Anne immediately volunteered to help our guests and crew manage through this period of uncertainty and became the face of Viking.TV on her weekly Thursday livestreams, brightening the days of nearly two million viewers. There is no one more deserving to become the godmother of Viking Venus.”

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UK CRUISES RESTART HAVING BEEN THE FIRST CRUISE TO SUSPEND OPERATIONS AT THE BEGINNING OF THE PANDEMIC, VIKING WILL RESTART OPERATIONS IN THE UK IN MAY, WITH THREE SPECIAL SAILINGS ALONG THE COAST OF ENGLAND. AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY FOR UK RESIDENTS, THE NEW EIGHT-DAY ITINERARY – ENGLAND'S SCENIC SHORES – WILL BE A ROUNDTRIP FROM PORTSMOUTH. GUESTS WILL BE AMONG THE FIRST TO SAIL ON BOARD VIKING'S NEWEST OCEAN SHIP, VIKING VENUS .

VIKING.TV Earlier this year, in March, our online experience channel, Viking.TV, celebrated its first birthday. With livestream shows every day, as well as an extensive library of on-demand programming, including short documentaries, interviews, lectures and musical performances, viewers can continue to explore the world with Viking from the comfort of home.

Coming up in April, there will be a week of art-related content, as well as a week of

programmes focused on the British Isles. In May, we’ll take a closer look at the Caribbean region for a week, and we’ll also be appreciating all things Portuguese. Each of these topics and areas will be explored in more depth, with shows touching on history, culture, cuisine and traditions, as well as a range of inspiring guests with fascinating life stories.

Visit Viking.TV to discover a wide variety of online content to inspire a sense of wanderlust.

We love hearing from you, so please do send your comments and suggestions to uk-marketing@viking.com

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NEWS

CHARITY SPOTLIGHT We are proud to be supporting the London-based charity Nova, which works with individuals, communities and organisations looking to achieve their potential and seeking a better future for themselves and the wider society. CEO, Lizzie Cho, gave us some more insight into their work:

What do you hope to accomplish at Nova?

Our work at Nova is based on the three pillars of social cohesion – social mobility, social inclusion and social capital. As CEO of Nova, my ambition is to create a blueprint for a way of working that supports other organisations and individuals to connect across boundaries for the collective good and creating pathways for all people, irrespective of background.

Throughout the Covid pandemic we have been busy delivering laptops, food, vitamin D tablets, SIM cards and activity packs and over 1,000 hours of 1-1 support. If we can inspire as many people as possible to change the little bit of the world around them through our work, I’ll be happy!

What do you love most about your job?

There is a lot I love about my job so it’s hard to pick out what I most love!

The grassroots work is incredibly rewarding – seeing people improving their lives through education and being supported towards employment. Our reach work is also immensely satisfying – joining up dots across business, government and civil society for wide-scale societal improvements.

It’s incredible working with a fantastic range of partners from Imperial College to the Natural History Museum to The Jo Cox Foundation and Viking, whose values match our own and by working together we profoundly improve experiences and outcomes across the board.

What is on the horizon for Nova this year?

We have been busy launching a podcast and our Visionaries Giving Scheme, as well as expanding our work with families and our events programme – our second TEDx Ladbroke Grove main stage event is in May 2021.

This year we aim to reach over 2,500 people and connect with more partners. We’ll be offering nearly 6,000 hours of dedicated 1-1 support, 300+ activities for children and families (greatly enhanced through our partnership with Vking), 600 adult learning sessions through our grassroots work and around 40 events via our reach work.

For more information, and to donate, please visit novanew.org.uk

We receive some amazing feedback, which acts as a kind of rocket fuel for us. Here are some recent quotes: “They stopped me going over the edge when I was at my lowest.”

"Nova has really helped to keep our spirits up in these unprecedented times.

They have been extremely helpful in my time of need.”

“Thank you for providing a safe place for my family that has helped us through the lockdown.”

“All services and support we receive is amazing, and a unique opportunity for our children.”

“To know there is somewhere like Nova when you are going through a problem…it is literally an oasis in the desert. It’s about someone giving up their time and being concerned about your plight. It’s very hard to put into words. They go the extra mile.“

“I learned so many things about myself by coming to Nova classes.

I have seen the impact on my mental health and speaking ability, and communication skills."

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Time

travel

Friends Val Hills and Ann Gregory reminisce about the historical highlights of their Adriatic voyage

T

he opportunity for two ladies of a certain age to be a part of the maiden voyage of Viking Sun was too good to miss and she didn’t disappoint!

We had chosen this journey as it takes us through history – from the Venetians to the Romans and ancient Greece.

The ship was glorious: sleek and modern, with a hint of Scandi. Our stateroom would have to wait – we were off to explore Venice, to plan our next day, taking the waterbus shuttle arranged by Viking.

A whole day in Venice to look forward to! On the way back from our recce, we noticed how elegant the ship looked from the water and we couldn’t wait to explore her.

Our stateroom was near Mamsen’s and this quickly became our favourite place for breakfast – the pancakes were divine – and the adjacent Explorers’ Lounge is a wonderfully stylish and sociable space, ideal for enjoying views.

Next day, the water bus to St. Mark’s Square worked a treat, with Viking staff and their big red brollies very visible, to help us find our way. We began with the included tour, then made our way off the beaten track. Venice is always busy around St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto bridge, so

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REVIEW

we would recommend the Hidden opposite our balcony. After Isles beyond. Our Venice on Foot tour, unless you are breakfast, we headed out to the tour guide gave us confident enough to go it alone. coach which took us to the Krka a real insight into There is so much to see – little National Park. This really is a jewel life in medieval streets, almost alleys really, opening of Croatia, with spectacular scenery Dubrovnik into wonderful old squares, nearly and stunning waterfalls. Our tour (formally Ragusa) all with an ancient church; canals guide Harry’s knowledge was including the criss-crossed by little hump-back extensive, and his witty delivery origin of the word bridges. And all the while, the made the outing great fun. ‘quarantine’. We had no idea it ebb and flow of began here in 1377, Venetians living their when a mandatory Krka National Park really is a jewel lives around you. offshore period of 40 of Croatia, with spectacular scenery The colourful market days was introduced to near the Rialto bridge stave off the plague. and stunning waterfalls reminds you that this Walking on the is a living, breathing walls is a must for city where people live and work; it That evening, we ate in more intimate views of the city. is not Disneyland.

Manfredi’s Italian restaurant and The difference between the new The Lion of Venice, the can honestly say that the steak was red pantile roofs and the older ones ancient winged lion statue that is the best we’ve tasted - and that’s reveals the extent of the damage synonymous with the city, would some feat! It was so good we went and trauma suffered by this city be our constant companion on there twice in a week! during the war of the early 1990s. most of our journey. Sailing away From one “Game of Thrones” Kotor beckoned the next day as from the Venice lagoon is simply backdrop to another: it’s onwards we sailed on down the Dalmatian wonderful. From the top deck, we to the pearl that is Dubrovnik, coast into the beautiful fjord-like could see the islands on both sides certainly a ‘must see’ of the inlet. This small Montenegrin city as Viking Sun glided slowly through Adriatic. Surrounded by thick, is a relatively new destination. the lagoon, before breaking out medieval walls that tower over The ancient narrow streets give a into the Adriatic Sea. the city and the sea, it is a sight to sense of its past and the need for The next morning, we woke up behold. The included tour took us protection against pirates. It was in Split, Croatia with a fantastic high above Dubrovnik, which gave October and the days were getting view of Diocletian’s Palace directly a fantastic view of the city and the warmer as we travelled south.

This page, left to right: Early morning in the Piazza San Marco, Venice; Val and Ann enjoy a drink on board Viking Sun Overleaf, left to right: Grand Canal palace façades viewed from the fish market; a stunning waterfall spotted in Krka National Park

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REVIEW

So, we returned to Viking Sun in of water called ‘The Eye’. The last years till 400 AD. That’s like us the afternoon to enjoy some of its full day of our journey loomed still watching the Olympic games many delights and eventually found as our beautiful ship cruised into every four years that were started by ourselves sitting in the sun chatting the Ionian Sea and we arrived in William the Conqueror! to new friends over a cocktail.

Katakolon. It was to be one of the The site is vast, and it was We headed down the coast most memorable days. Absolutely interesting to see the place where towards Corfu, to the the present-day island’s old town and torch is There is so much to see – little streets Olympic fortress. We took to the lit. The museum is water again, this time wonderful: the Greeks opening into wonderful old squares, in a small boat to visit were true masters of canals criss-crossed by little bridges Paleokastritsa and it’s stonemasonry and wonderful coastline. sculpture. Here we Our little boat inched its way into found out that the Greeks were the compelling was our visit to a cave where sunlight somehow Olympia, the home of the Olympic first to create statues with a relaxed shone through an underwater cave hip where one leg is bent slightly, games, whose origins go back to from the other side, to reveal a a legacy passed on to Michelangelo nearly 800 BC and took place remarkable bright turquoise splash every four years for the next 1100 and evident in his David statue. We both came away truly awestruck by the spectacle and size of the site.

Back on Viking Sun, we went to a discussion about the Elgin Marbles led by the onboard resident historian; there was an extensive programme of historical, geographical and political talks during the trip to suit all interests.

All too soon our journey was over but we had a fabulous time.

Everything about the ship, her staff and our journey was truly memorable. We loved it so much we are booked to do it again!

The 8-day 2022 Venice, the Adriatic & Greece journey, from Venice to Athens, starts from £2,740pp.

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Above: Katakolon, a small town on the coast of the Ionian Sea Below: The monastery of Paleokastritsa in Corfu

CITY GUIDE

Athens A thens is where the ancient and modern worlds collide to create something utterly spectacular. Centuriesold Byzantine churches and classical buildings line cobbled streets, and sprawling neighbourhoods play host to buzzing bars, restaurants and cafes, where people pour out into the streets and bask in the heat of the day. The city’s art scene has abounded in recent years, with commercial galleries like The Breeder and Goulandris Foundation favoured hot spots for art enthusiasts. Athens exudes a charming energy and chaos, and at its heart, the gleaming marble of the Acropolis, which sits on a hill and is visible from almost all corners of the city – an ever-present reminder of the country’s age-old history.

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Don’t miss

• The National Gardens, tucked away in the heart of the city, have offered a serene retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city since the 19th century.

Europe’s classical capital beckons with an electrifying blend of urban grit and ancient grandeur, delicious food and sweeping vistas

• The Museum of Cycladic Art is rich in ancient statues, figurines, vases and sculptures, with more than 3,000 artefacts of Cycladic, ancient Greek and Cypriot origin, connecting Greece to its past.

• Head to the neighbourhood of Monastiraki for your fun fix of rooftop bars, markets, buzzing restaurants and cafés and peruse shops filled with antiques and handmade jewellery • Be sure to visit Anafiotika, a charming Cycladic village clinging to the northern slopes of the Acropolis. Cats snooze among the geraniums and whitewashed houses reflect the sun’s golden glow.

Fast facts

• Athens is Europe’s oldest capital city, with its origins dating back to 3,000 BC, and is regarded as the birthplace of democracy, with the political system enacted in 500 BC where eligible citizens could vote directly on laws.

• The marathon came from the story of Pheidippides – a Greek soldier who ran from Marathon,

Greece, to Athens in 490 BC. His long run has inspired the famous 26.2-mile event today.

• Athens was named after Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom and war, although it was nearly named after Poseidon, the God of the sea.

Athena won with her gift of an olive tree.

Above: The Acropolis dominates the ancient cityscape of Athens

INSIDER TIPS Changing of the guards The Hellenic Parliament stands in the heart of the city. It’s here that two guards take up residence, dressed in traditional costume.

Café culture Experience Grecian café culture by heading to the neighbourhoods of Pangrati and Exarhia, where locals spill out from tavernas to play games of backgammon.

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TOP 10

DESTINATIONS IN EGYPT We’ve rounded up the highlights of this ancient land, a place where the remains of an ancient civilisation blend with the hustle and bustle of modern-day life

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DISCOVERY

THE SECRETS OF THE PYRAMIDS Egypt’s pyramids are its most iconic treasures.

Discover the necropolis of Sakkara, thought to be the first pyramid built in ancient Egypt. At Giza Plateau, the most spectacular are the Great Pyramids of Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure. Also on the list is Abu al-Hol – the Sphinx that guards the entrance to the tombs.

LUXOR TEMPLE

This striking temple sits on the fringes of the modern town of Luxor.

Known as the Southern Sanctuary, the interiors boast ancient hieroglyphs telling of the festival of Opet which was held annually in ancient Egypt. Visit the Great Court of Ramses II, whose walls are adorned with the names and titles of his 17 sons.

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CITADEL OF SALAH EL DIN

The medieval Islamic-era fortification in Cairo is perched on a hill that looms over the city. Its spectacular dome and minarets shoot up to dominate the capital city’s skyline while its imposing gateways and high defending walls show its purpose during a time of warfare.

The citadel is one of Cairo’s main attractions and one of the most popular non-pharaonic monuments – along with the Mohamed Ali Mosque – it today houses various museums, and is the most prominent and photographed spot within the complex.

The complex of Dendera is one of Egypt’s best-preserved sites and is situated on the west bank of the Nile. It dates all the way back to the mid-4th century BC and is thought to be a shrine to the goddess of love, Hathor. Inside, the temple boasts examples of Ptolemaic Egyptian art, and a replica of the Dendera Zodiac – a sculpture from the Greco-Roman period that charts stars in the ancient sky.

TEMPLES OF PHILAE Founded around 280 BC, the Temples of Philae were an important centre for the cult of Isis, and later were of great significance to the Greeks and Romans. The temples are now a UNESCO site, and have been moved, block by block, to Agilka Island. Discover the sites of the temples, staying for the evening to catch the light show that creates a dramatic kaleidoscope of light and shadow, bringing the figures displayed on the walls to life.

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CAIRO MARKETS

Egypt’s pulsating souks are feasts for all the senses where you’ll find everything from crafts and intricate jewellery to aromatic and unusual spices and foods. A trip to Cairo isn’t complete without a visit to the famous Khan El-Khalili market where visitors wander its narrow walkways on a quest for that ultimate souvenir.

The souk sits on the site of what was once an ancient trade route and so today’s atmosphere isn’t unlike what it was during the times of the Berbers and Turks who would trade after journeying on camelback.

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DISCOVERY

OLD CAIRO Discover the narrow alleyways of Coptic Cairo – the final stage of ancient Egypt that can be characterised by its Christian faith. Visit the Christian Quarter of Cairo, the Coptic Museum, which holds the largest collection of Christian artifacts in the world and is built on the ruins of the Roman Babylon Fort. Old Cairo is also home to the Ben Ezra Synagogue, originally a Coptic church until it was sold to the Jewish community.

DISCOVERING ASWAN

The Aswan High Dam is a masterpiece of engineering that protects the Nile’s surrounding fields. A modern undertaking finalised in the 1960s, its damming established the 300-mile-long Lake Nassar which now provides electricity and water for all Egypt.

A charming town off the beaten track that offers its own fascinating quirks. Along the waterfront sit quintessential 19th-century houses with traditional mashrabiya – wooden lattice screens. Esna was once the site of Latopolis, and its ancient temple remains, devoted to the guardian of the source of the Nile, Khnum.

The temple is thought to be one of the last built by the Egyptians, and it is here visitors will find the last-known hieroglyphic inscriptions recorded by the Roman emperor Dios in 250AD. Towering columns are still adorned with intricate carvings that tell Khnum’s story.

THE TEMPLE OF HORUS

This particular temple was built in Edfu, on the west bank of the Nile, during the Ptolemaic Dynasty. Totally submerged by desert sands for two centuries, the temple remains one of the best preserved of all Egypt’s temples. A shrine to the falcon-headed god of light, the entrance is flanked by two falcon statues. Inside, you’ll spot a colonnaded courtyard, hieroglyphics and rows of lotus columns. The stairway to the roof was once used in the annual New Year’s festival when priests carried a statue of Horus so it could be revitalised by the year’s first sun.

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THE VILLAGE OF ESNA

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A taste of

Salamanca

Kay Wilkie reports back from her first visit to the ancient university city of Salamanca, in Spain

This page, clockwise, from above: The magnificent skyline of Salamanca; spotting storks nesting in the rooftops is thought to bring good luck

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W

e thoroughly enjoyed revisiting Lisbon and Porto on our Portugal’s River of Gold cruise, however our favourite destination was the Spanish university city of Salamanca. Viking Osfrid moored at Vega de Terrón, the furthest navigable point on the Douro, and we set off. Although we had holidayed in Spain many times, we had never visited Salamanca and my knowledge of the city was limited to vaguely-remembered history lessons about the 19thcentury Peninsula War. A goldenstoned city with many fine buildings, including two cathedrals and the 13th-century university, there has been a settlement on the site on the Rio Tormes since

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pre-Roman times.

The excursion began in one of Salamanca’s food markets where we sampled local cured meats, cheeses and olives, accompanied by a glass of locally produced red wine. From there we headed to the Plaza Mayor where we were free to explore. For centuries, these main squares have been central to the life of many Spanish cities, being part town square, part theatre, part residential and part gathering place. Built in the 18th century, the Plaza Mayor in Salamanca is one of the largest and finest in Spain. Surrounded

by Baroque buildings, it provides a stunning backdrop for lively Salamancan life.

Having admired and photographed the square, we

headed down one of the narrow streets until we reached a building with two towers and a dome, the Pontifical University of Salamanca, a private Roman Catholic University. Hearing our accents, the curator switched to English and told us that his wife came from Glasgow and that he had lived there for several years.

He advised that, despite the many steps, we should be sure to go right to the top of the towers for the magnificent view. He didn’t lie,

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REVIEW

about the view or the steps!

The golden city basked in the sun, and an unexpected bonus was a close-up view of several storks’ nests in the neighbouring towers.

I was fascinated by the small heads popping out from the clutter of sticks. Storks nesting on a rooftop are thought to bring good luck.

From the towers we noticed that the walls of the building opposite were decorated with scallop shells, the badges of pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela. The Casa de las Conchas, again built around a central courtyard, was once the home of Rodrigo Maldonado, a knight of Santiago, and is now a library. After exploring it we strolled along the narrow streets, then across the gardens to the cathedral, or rather the cathedrals, the new cathedral being built alongside the old. As Viking guests we had free entry to this magnificent Renaissance building.

The Plateresque design is specific to Spain, so called as the detailed sculpting on the stone resembles elaborate silverwork. The highlight of the new cathedral is the multipanelled altarpiece surrounding a statue of Salamanca’s patron saint. We left through the 12th-century Romanesque cathedral, but didn’t linger as there was a wedding in process; a beautiful bride and a handsome groom with a congregation of very fashionably-dressed guests.

From there, we made our way down to the River Tormes. The Roman bridge still has 15 of its original 26 arches and gives a superb view of Salamanca.

Returning to the cathedral gardens, we noticed that they were now filled with people, some in robes and some stylishly dressed.

We quickly realised that this was a truly joyful occasion – graduation – the celebration of several years’ hard work, the beginning of a new chapter in life and a cause for family pride. Unlike British

This page, clockwise, from top left: Kay enjoyed the local delicacies on offer; the ecclesiastical architecture was a highlight; the University of Salamanca from a spectacular viewpoint

robes – where the subject and class of degree are denoted by different coloured hoods – the Spanish robes had fabric triangles featuring different colours for different faculties, on which subject and degree level were visible. Much to my husband’s embarrassment, I enjoyed looking out for different subjects and classifications, mostly Life Sciences and Pharmacology.

By now in need of sustenance before joining the afternoon walking tour of the 16th-century university buildings, we were fortunate enough to find two seats along with new graduates and their proud families in one of

the bustling outdoor restaurants.

We ordered some snacks to share – gambas pil pil, croquettes de serrano, patatas bravas, tortilla and albondigas with a plate of pimentos de Padron on the side, laughing and spluttering when one of us got a hot one. As we enjoyed a glass of Ribera del Duero with our tapas, a group of music graduates and lecturers went past, in medieval dress, playing lutes, guitars and other stringed instruments.

A truly memorable day.

A 10-day 2022 Portugal’s River of Gold trip, from Lisbon to Porto, starts from £2,195pp.

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Amazing Asia

Lindsay and Fiona Robinson look back at a remarkable journey of contrasts, from Bangkok to Tokyo

REVIEW

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PHOTOS: © ADOBE STOCK; ISTOCK

wo years ago some friends suggested that we joined them on the very first Viking cruise from Hong Kong to Tokyo. We thought it would be a great experience and, in addition, we decided to add on the preceding sector from Bangkok to Hong Kong which would allow us the opportunity to explore even more of Asia.

We visited huge and spectacular mega cities and saw a way of life under attack from the relentless pace of change. We also experienced the thoughtful resilience of Hiroshima and Nagasaki and the unimaginable horror experienced by those who lived there just over 70 years ago.

The countries came thick and fast with glimpses of Thailand, Cambodia, Taiwan, and South Korea and the chance to see Vietnam, Hong Kong and Japan in much more depth. We saw countries at very different stages of their development. Cambodia – struggling to escape from the poverty of a destroyed economy and education system – was not easy to see but we appreciated going, seeing and trying to understand what it was going through. We were astonished by the fast pace of growth, the creative architecture, ambitious infrastructure and changing lifestyles. We saw countries

ruined by war in the last 75 years, resurrected from the ashes.

Busan in Korea, Ho Chi Minh City, Hiroshima and Nagasaki have all been transformed after their destructions and the Asian economic miracle is clear to see!

CONTRASTS

As well as mega cities, we were privileged in many places to see life as it was, and, where – in just a few places – it remains unchanged. A two-day trip into the Mekong Delta from Ho Chi Minh City allowed us to see the people and lifestyles in this special environment. In Ha Long Bay we took trips into the bay over two days to see the fishing villages and the economic development that sustains traditional communities.

Fun street markets in Hong Kong provided the chance to work on our negotiating skills. There were many opportunities to see traditional craftsmen at work and to enjoy local entertainment. The two breath-taking cable car trips across the bay in Ha Long Bay and the other from Lantau back to Honk Kong were a contrast.

PEOPLE

The people of Asia are a revelation and are what make the experience welcoming, hardworking, young, fun, spirited and engaging. We had some very knowledgeable tour guides, met the most friendly people, even in the poorest of places, and as we travelled through Japan, every port put on a special show to welcome us and bid us farewell.

Unexpected moments of course are the best: the floating shopkeeper who came to sell us delicious fruit in Ha Long Bay; the Japanese girls dressed in their gorgeous kimonos celebrating their new emperor during the Golden Week celebrations; and the delightful free guide who took us around a beautiful garden in Hiroshima in the pouring rain, and who wouldn’t even accept a tip! In Shimizu, we were stunned to find there was a carnival atmosphere for our arrival and 24-hour stay in the shade of Mount Fuji.

This page, clockwise, from top right: KinkakuJu temple in Kyoto; Lindsay and Fiona Robinson; dressing up for Golden Day in Kyoto Opposite: The epic landscape surrounding Ha Long Bay

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REVIEW

In Japan, we travelled with the locals as they celebrated their new emperor. Vast crowds thronged religious sites and cities were in the midst of special celebrations.

Kyoto was perhaps the busiest place we saw – our tour managed to get us into the three most spectacular sites, the Kinka-Ji Golden Temple, Arashiyama and the bamboo grove, and the Fushimi Inari complex with its 10,000 tori gates. The gardeners even cut the grass with scissors to leave a stunning moss carpet. I don’t think that will be repeated in our

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garden! In Sihanoukville, we saw the challenge of starting out again after the Pol Pot genocide – we visited the Ream National Park where attempts have been made to encourage sustainable tourism, but also saw a culture where rubbish is not collected, investment is in very short supply and pockets of real poverty and deprivation still exist.

We are glad Viking did not airbrush out this part of our experience.

VIKING ORION

Viking Orion was the same beautiful and relaxing place we know so well. We enjoyed Asianthemed food, gracious service, making new friends, and wellproduced entertainment. We particularly enjoyed relaxing in the Living Room bar in the evening as the pianist Geza played effortlessly hour after hour and of course the enthusiastic vocalists who sang in the Star Theatre most evenings.

The lectures followed the usual Viking pattern, but on this cruise there was something different. We were privileged to attend lectures with the multi-talented and highly knowledgeable Dr. John Freedman.

Never have I seen a lecturer work so hard and be so engaging. Sometimes he lectured twice a day and there was standing room only in the Star Theatre for his accessible contemporary history and culture lecture programme!

AND FINALLY

There were so many highlights that it is difficult to pick a few that stand out. For us, we loved the beauty of Japan, the welcoming people, the stunning architecture and visiting the places where new cities have grown out of unbelievable horror, with forgiveness and understanding.

We were fortunate to have Viking Orion as our base from which to explore and there is no question if we could do it all again tomorrow we would be there without a second thought! It is a life experience we will never forget.

A 15-day 2022 Southeast Asia & Hong Kong trip starts from £5,290pp, and a 15-day 2022 Far Eastern Horizons journey starts from £6,490pp.

Clockwise, from top left: Kyoto, Japan at the bamboo forest; welcoming children in Ream National Park; Asian-themed food, such as sushi, was part of the experience

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ AWL

PLACES

CITY GUIDE

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

Tokyo E lectric, sprawling, everchanging, Tokyo is a fascinating city known for its sleek skyscrapers, pop-coloured billboards, buzzing nightlife scene and fast-paced lifestyle. On the horizon, Mount Fuji looms, reminding us that as futuristic as Tokyo feels, it is steeped in history.

Visitors to Tokyo can still find a taste of time gone by, and head to its more sleepy neighbourhoods, where bright lanterns hang from wooden buildings, seeking to preserve the culture and history of the country’s feudal era. Amidst the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, tranquillity and stillness can be found, too. The district of Asakusa is home to the city’s oldest Buddhist temple, Senso-Ji, and traditional stalls along Nakamise street. Along the Kanda River, the French Quarter, Kagurazaka, is home to cobbled streets and Zen paradise gardens. In springtime, Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden’s cherry blossoms are a must-see.

Tokyo is a feast for all senses with its futuristic skyscrapers, ancient temples, and vibrant markets

Don’t miss

• For an authentic experience of Tokyo, head to Tsukiji fish market.

Get there early and you will catch all the action, and enjoy the full experience with a sushi breakfast.

• For a historical tour of Tokyo, head to Edo-Tokyo Museum and discover how the 15th-century village of Edo transformed to become one of the largest cities in the world.

• For panoramic views of the city, make your way up the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, known as Tochi in Japanese. On a clear day, you can see as far as Mount Fuji from the observation deck on the 45th floor.

• Tokyo is famed for its gaming, so head to the arcades of Ikebukuro and watch gamers in action at the multi-story arcades.

Fast facts

• The cherry blossom is the national symbol of Japan. In April, the trees flower for a two-week spectacle, known as Hanami.

• Tokyo has the world’s highest volume of Michelin stars.

• The city is home to about 10 per cent of Japan’s entire population.

If you include the greater Tokyo metro area of Kanagawa, Saitama and Chiba, the population amounts to around 38 million people.

Above: Tokyo by night has an electric atmosphere

INSIDER TIPS Sky high Opened in 2012, the Tokyo Skytree broadcasting tower is an iconic landmark, with several observation decks open to the public.

Row and relax Several districts are home to boating lakes, moats and ponds where visitors can rent rowing boats by the half hour.

Glide off to find your very own peaceful oasis.

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The GREAT OUTDOORS We highlight the variety of inviting outdoor spaces on board Viking ships

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he great outdoors is especially energising when you’re at sea or on the river. The breeze is fresh, the air is clean, and it’s the perfect place to take a stroll on deck, relax and restore a sense of equilibrium. We’ve gathered some of our favourite outdoor places on board our award-winning ocean ships, Viking Longships and new expedition ships. Pull up a sun lounger or a comfy chair – we’ll see you there!

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DISCOVERY

AQUAVIT TERRACE First designed for Viking Longships, this outdoor terrace has been reimagined for our ocean ships, where it is set around the Infinity Pool. By day, it’s a relaxing lounge area, at night it transforms into a magical space where your destination is your dining room. Likewise, on Viking’s expedition ships, the Aquavit Terrace is a sociable, relaxing space, where you can take in the views or take a dip in a choice of three pools.

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FINSE TERRACE This beautiful space on the Viking expedition ships offers the ultimate in outdoor comfort. Inviting sofas with feather-filled cushions wrap around a Nordic-style fire pit, and plush blankets add to the warm ambience.

Everywhere you look, you are met with spectacular views of stunning scenery.

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DISCOVERY

PRIVATE VERANDA Step out of your stateroom straight onto your private veranda. On the river and at sea (where every room comes with a veranda), your outside retreat is the perfect spot to relax and take in the fresh air, or take breakfast, lunch or dinner – our ocean ships offer 24-hour room service, all included, of course.

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THE MAIN POOL ON VIKING OCEAN SHIPS A haven for relaxation, swims and soaks, the heated main pool, with its overhead retractable roof, is a calming oasis in all weathers. By night, it transforms into a magical venue for stargazing and for watching a classic movie, or enjoying opera under the stars.

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DISCOVERY

OWNER’S SUITE ON VIKING EXPEDITION SHIPS The largest suite onboard our expedition ships offers 1223 sq.ft of exceptional space and amenities, including a private garden lounge area, complete with badestamp, a traditional wooden-sided hot tub. Perfect for relaxing after a busy day of exploring.

SUN DECK AND LOUNGE The top deck on the Viking Longships offers a walking track, organic herb garden, and panoramic views that change with every bend in the river. This space on Viking’s ocean ships is an outdoor living area with comfy sofas, and you can practise your swing on the putting green and make use of the fitness equipment.

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SPRING celebration Award-winning garden designer, Paul Hervey-Brookes, marks the new season with historical musings and gardening tips

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This page: A lush courtyard area caught in bright spring sunshine; award-winning designer Paul Hervey-Brookes

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t this time of year, each day seems to lengthen, and noticeably so, until by the end of April, it seems that spring has finally sprung, in all its decadence and blossom-laden wonder.

The first day of April, known to many as ‘April Fools’ Day’, is the day when the morning can be spent playing tricks on friends and family – all light-hearted fun.

Ask almost anyone and they will find its origins quite obscure, but they are in fact French. In the 16th century, New Year’s Day was marked on April 1st and celebrated with parties, dances and garlands of blossom and spring flowers.

However, in 1582, Pope Gregory

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introduced a revised Christian calendar which moved New Year’s Day to January 1st. Of course in a world without telephones and computers, news was slow to travel and New Year’s Day continued to be celebrated for some time in April. People who accepted the new date gradually began playing tricks on those they called April fools which was the foundation of a new tradition that travelled with European settlers around the world.

The saddest part of this story for a gardener is the lack of flowers available for January’s celebrations.

But we can still celebrate the end of April with another ancient celebration, Walpurgis Night, marking the eve of the Christian feast day of Saint Walpurga.

Thought to be of Scandinavian origin, Walpurga was born in Britian in the early 8th century, and

later in life travelled to Germany where she founded the Catholic Convent at Heidenheim. She died in 779 and was made a saint on 1st May later the same year. By Papal chance, her saint’s day falls on the same date as ancient Viking fertility celebrations and allowed the pagan ritual and the Catholic celebration to intertwine, hence the night-time parades to ward off evil that follow a day of bell tolling and prayers.

Again flowers were an integral part of this festival, used in headdress garlands and as adornments throughout the dwellings. April has an abundance of blooms – from bluebells, blossom and even wild orchids – ensuring that these festivals, complete with incense and reverence, must have been a sight to behold. Our own celebrations in the garden start

GARDENING

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; ALAMY

with the joy of bulbs we planted last autumn appearing alongside spring flowering perennials such as Pulmonarias, Brunnera and emerging Aquilegia.

April is the first month of the year where the ground is warm to the touch, and seeds sown directly will germinate within days.

No wonder our ancestors of old saw this as a fertile month and celebrated it.

I like to direct sow Nigella seed in April or, if I forget and am slightly late, in early May. It is perhaps one of the most dazzling of the easy annuals you could choose. I love the soft blues of the ordinary Nigella damascena, known commonly to many as ‘Love in the Mist’, but the ‘Bridal Veil’ variety has large faded white petals and highly pronounced black anthers, so it really does look like a bridal gown of old.

Nigella damascena comes from Syria, and was brought to Europe in the 1500s, most likely by the Crusaders. Its seeds can be collected and are often used in cookery and its soft, fragile-looking flowers dry well and can be kept for up to five years before fading completely.

The other must-have easy annual I grow is the humble marigold, Calendula officinalis. Again this can be sown directly in-between perennials in the open border, in containers and in cutting beds during April, May and June.

Calendula, often known as ‘English Marigold’ comes in many colours, from brilliant yellow and burnt orange to the softer pastel shades and the beautifully bi-coloured

THE ESSENTIALS

‘Neon’, whose petals are darker on the reverse, giving a subtle colour even though the name suggests something much brighter. Calendula is an ancient potherb, meaning its flowers have been used to garnish salads and other dishes since ancient Greek times.

In India and the Middle East, where the flowers were used as a substitute for saffron, a chance discovery was made. The poor, hard-working woman whose hands should have been calloused and worn from work instead had soft, gentle hands, the envy of their rich masters. The reason seemed to be cultivating and harvesting the flowers and stems of Calendula for food and as a dye plant. This discovery lead to an explosion in demand for Calendula which began in the Middle Ages, when plants that had been exported to Europe were closely guarded by the monks in their monastery gardens. Today, the plant is just as popular and used in many skincare products.

One of the other great delights of the season is rhubarb, forced sweet pink stems are utterly delicious and unique. Their sister stems later in the year need heavy baking and sugars to render them edible. Rhubarb also

With so much to celebrate in the garden, it is easy to overlook the more humble of gardening happenings. Keep on top of the weeds now and spend time rooting out annual weed seedlings as they germinate to reduce work later on. If you grow fruits such as currants and raspberries, reduce your weeding and watering work by adding a thick mulch now. Wood chips and even lawn cuttings will work well and you will be thankful for one less job as the weather starts to get hotter.

As soon as the frosts have passed in your area you can plant out dahlias into the borders. These queens of the later summer garden are loved by slugs, so mulch thickly and set the odd bear trap to ensure you enjoy the plants and flowers and the slugs do not.

had an interesting history, for this strange, prehistoric looking plant once cost, gram for gram, more than gold.

Rhubarb had been an important and valuable medicinal plant since 2700BC in China, but during the later years of the Sung Dynasty, one Emperor believed that a daily dose kept his Empress thin, beautiful and youthful of complexion. The Empress was indeed beautiful and as the secrets of her beauty escaped the palace so the demand for rhubarb rose, along the Silk Route the news travelled, and in Russia the craze was so intense that at one stage it was punishable by death to take rhubarb out of Russia.

Smuggling the wonder food was profitable business, ensuring that in Europe it cost more than gold for a time.

The bubble eventually burst and rhubarb was relegated for some time to depressed English steamed puddings and school dinners, but its health properties have been proven of recent times and with its superfood status restored, demand is again increasing. The sweetest variety to grow is of course a secret but I’ll let you in on it, the species form Rheum tanguticum produces both delicious slim sweet stems, has attractive cut foliage and its flowers which come in mid to late summer are followed by ruby red seed capsules – worth looking out for.

Above: A Nigella damascena ‘Persian Jewels’ seedhead Below: The superfood rhubarb once cost more gram for gram than gold

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REVIEW

Alaskan adventure Seasoned Viking guests Sheila and Ed Davies venture into the icescapes of Alaska and Canada

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

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his was our 22nd Viking (river and ocean) cruise.

We were just as excited about joining our ship Viking Orion as we were when we joined our first Viking cruise, and we were certainly not disappointed.

Prior to embarking on our cruise we were fortunate enough to join the Rocky Mountaineer Journey pre-cruise extension and what an experience that was. Before boarding the train we spent three days in the beautiful city of Banff and enjoyed the included tour of the area and the optional tour to the Columbia Icefield where we were taken to the Athabasca Glacier in a huge all-terrain Ice Explorer.

On the way we visited the Peyto Lake – the turquoise water has to be seen to be believed.

As we waited for the Rocky Mountaineer train to pull into the station and take us from Banff to Vancouver, I have never seen so many excited people eagerly waiting to get on board. The GoldLeaf service was excellent, as was the view from the glass-domed upper deck of our exclusive Viking carriage, giving us a perfect view of

the outstanding scenery along our route. After two days on board, we left the train to spend two nights in the beautiful city of Vancouver where we enjoyed the included tour. We would highly recommend this pre-cruise extension.

Then it was time to join our ship. It was just like coming home and we were quickly settled in to the familiar surroundings of what was to be our comfortable home for the next eleven days.

Cruising on day one allowed us to relax and enjoy the wonderful scenery of the Inside Passage. On arriving at Sitka we went on a whale watching trip with another couple. We were fortunate to see some marvellous scenery and a family of grey whales that circled the boat – at times they were so close we could almost touch them.

At Skagway we joined the optional excursion to the Denver Glacier to experience the fun of dog sledding. What an experience!

The helicopter ride up to the glacier was fabulous, as was the scenery.

We all had a turn at standing on the back of the sled and the feeling was exhilarating. Finally, we met

some puppies for a cuddle and would have run off with them if no-one was looking. On returning to Skagway, we enjoyed a walk around the beautiful town.

The next day was spent scenic cruising in the Yakutat Bay to view the Hubbard Glacier and we were stunned by its vastness and colours against the water – it was truly magnificent. The Captain was able to cruise reasonably close to the glacier allowing everyone the opportunity to have a good view of it. It was amazing to see the glacier calving and the many small icebergs floating around the ship.

It was also a great experience to visit all the other ports of call, to appreciate how the locals live and to understand the culture of the Alaskan people. All too soon our cruise came to an end and it was time to go home. But we have brought many happy memories home with us and are so pleased to have cruised with Viking again.

This page, clockwise, from top left: Mount Edgecumbe, near Sitka, in Alaska; Ed and Sheila Davies next to a British flag at Columbia Icefield Opposite, clockwise, from top left: Ed meeting the dog sledding puppies in Skagway; a dog sledding experience in the snow; Icy Strait Point in Hoonah; whale watching in Sitka; Viking Orion docked in Skagway; sailing the Inside Passage at night; a sea otter in Sitka; Hubbard Glacier Yakutat Bay; Ed and Sheila at Columbia Icefield

An 11-day 2022 Alaska & the Inside Passage journey, from Vancouver to Seward, starts from £4,790pp.

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New York Cheesecake A Viking set-up sent in by Christine and Christopher Gandy

Churros and chocolate sauce Lynne Morris baked these delicious Spanish treats, perfect for dipping in chocolate!

Your World

Our readers have been busy exploring the world from their kitchens...

Flavours of the world

Alaskan Salmon Ella Mitchell used a brown sugar glaze for this baked dish

Goulash Mary Crisp tried creating this Hungarian classic at home

Borscht Angie Heini cooked this beetroot-based soup popular in Eastern Europe

COOKING

Chicken Pörkölt Jenny Miah served her chicken recipe alongside pasta

Chicken Pörkölt A hearty Hungarian stew rustled up by Wendy and Nick Atkin-Smith

Poached salmon and Cucumber Salad David Thomas enjoyed making this Norwegian dish at home

Mamsen’s Waffles Everybody’s favourite, Lynne Morris paired her waffles with fresh raspberries

Tarte Tatin Mrs Baker conjured up this apple tart, a staple of French cuisine

Smørrebrød (open sandwiches) A Danish favourite, David and Louise Harrison combined salmon gravlax with a mustard dill sauce

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Japan

A culinary journey Join us in creating new dishes that celebrate the amazing variety of local produce and foreign flavours from these fascinating destinations

RECIPES

TEMAKI SUSHI Serves 4 INGREDIENTS:

• 200g (7oz) sushi rice • 60ml (2 fl oz) rice vinegar • 1 tbsp sugar • ½ tsp salt • 1 pack sushi nori sheets FOR THE FILLINGS:

• Sushi grade fresh tuna • Salmon roe • Teriyaki chicken • Avocado • Cucumber • Shrimp • Wasabi • Sushi ginger 1. Cook the rice according to the packet instructions. Mix the rice vinegar, sugar and salt and stir through the rice. Allow to cool.

2. Cut the nori sheets in half and assemble all the fillings, cut into small 10cm (4 inch) strips.

3. To assemble the temaki, spread a layer of rice over each nori sheet, then add fillings to taste. Roll into a cone shape, and moisten one edge before pressing to seal.

Croatia BLACK RISOTTO

Norway TROLLKREM Serves 4 INGREDIENTS:

• 2 egg whites • 6 tbsp lingonberry jam • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 1 tsp caster sugar TO GARNISH:

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

• Lingonberry jam 1. Place all the ingredients into the bowl of a food mixer (make sure the bowl is really clean).

2.Whisk on the highest setting until the mousse increases in volume and forms soft peaks.

3. Serve piled into individual glasses and garnish with some extra lingonberry jam.

Serves 4 INGREDIENTS:

• 450g (1 lb) cherry tomatoes • 2 tbsp olive oil • 2 cloves garlic, crushed • 450g (1 lb) squid, prepared and sliced • 2 tbsp olive oil • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped • 1.2l (2 ½ pints) fish stock • 2 tbsp butter • 1 small onion, chopped • 355g (12 ½ oz) Carnaroli risotto rice • 150ml (5 fl oz) white wine • Salt and pepper • 1 x 4g sachet squid ink 1. Prepare the cherry tomatoes. Blanch briefly in boiling water, then remove with a slotted spoon, peel and chop.

2. In a frying pan, heat the olive oil, then add the crushed garlic and the squid. Sauté really fast and remove from the pan as soon as the

squid starts to curl. Reserve and keep warm.

3. In the same pan, add a further 2 tbsp of olive oil and the chopped garlic. Fry the garlic until golden and then add all of the chopped cherry tomatoes. Cook gently until reduced and thickened, then add in the squid. Season with salt and pepper, then keep warm.

4. For the risotto, heat the fish stock in a saucepan, then in a heavy-based pan melt the butter, add the onion and cook for five minutes until soft without colouring the onion. Add the rice and stir well, coating in the oil, then add the white wine.

Cook the rice until all the wine has been absorbed, stirring all the time.

5. Begin to add the warm fish stock, a ladle at a time, stirring the risotto constantly and never allowing it to dry out. Add the squid ink to the risotto and keep stirring, then keep adding the stock until the rice is just tender and the risotto is slightly runny. This should take approximately 15 minutes or so.

6. Serve the risotto and top with the squid in tomato sauce.

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USA

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RECIPES

VIKING BURGER Serves 6 INGREDIENTS:

• 6 sesame-seeded buns • 6 slices cheddar cheese • 6 slices pancetta • Smoky barbecue sauce FOR THE BEEF PATTIES:

• 900g (2 lb) minced beef • 1 egg, beaten • 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce • 70g (2 ½ oz) dry breadcrumbs FOR THE ONION RELISH:

• 4 tbsp butter • Pinch salt • 6 red onions, sliced • 175ml (6 fl oz) orange juice • 100ml (3.5 fl oz) red wine vinegar • 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar • 4 tbsp honey • 1 small beetroot TO SERVE: • French fries • Coleslaw • Lettuce and tomato • Sweet pickled gherkins 1. To make the burger patties, mix the minced beef, egg, Worcestershire sauce and breadcrumbs together in a large bowl. Shape into six generous burgers, then chill until required.

2. For the red onion relish, melt the butter in a heavy-based pan and add in the onions. Sprinkle over the salt, then cook gently until soft and translucent, but not coloured.

Add in the orange juice and both vinegars, then stir in the honey and the thinly-sliced beetroot.

3. Continue to cook gently until all the excess liquid has evaporated and the mixture has thickened.

Allow to cool.

4. Season the burger patties with salt and pepper, then grill for about 3-5 minutes on each side (depending on your preferences).

5. Meanwhile, toast the burger buns and add a slice of cheddar to the bottom half. Place the cooked burgers onto the cheese. As you remove the burgers, add the slices of pancetta to the grill to crisp up.

6. Top each burger with a spoonful of the onion relish and a squeeze of barbecue sauce. Finish with the crispy pancetta before adding the top half of the bun. Serve with French fries, coleslaw, crunchy lettuce and slices of tomato, and a few sweet-pickled gherkins.

France

TARTE TATIN Serves 6 INGREDIENTS:

• 100g (3 ½ oz) caster sugar • 55g (2 oz) butter • 6 dessert apples • 2 tbsp butter • 320g (11.2 oz) puff pastry 1. Preheat the oven to 175°C. Heat the sugar and butter over a medium heat until it turns a deep golden brown. Don’t allow the caramel to burn.

2. Peel and halve the apples, scooping out the seeds with a spoon. Place all the apples in the caramel and cook, moving

them around in the caramel, for approximately 10 minutes. Next, in a 23cm (9 inch) diameter oven proof dish or pan, arrange the apple halves, rounded side down.

Fill in any gaps with cut apples and dot with small pieces of butter.

3. Roll the pastry out into a circle, slightly larger than the pan and about 5mm (0.2 inch) thick.

Place the disc of pastry over the caramelized apples, tucking the edges in all around the dish. Brush with melted butter.

4. Bake for around 30 to 40 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown and the caramel is starting to ooze from the tart. Leave to cool for an hour before serving.

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FA S H I O N

The

Bright Side Mix and match your colours for a fresh new look this spring

Leather purse White Stuff, £35

Pink chinos From a selection at Next

Blouse Next, £35

Sandals Accessorize, £22.50

Cardigan Tu Clothing, £20

Paper hat National Trust, £20 Denim midi skirt M&Co, £35

Raincoat Regatta, £75

Trainers Marks & Spencer, £39.50

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Sunglasses Oliver Bonas, £24

INTERVIEW

INSPIRING PEOPLE

Debbie Wiseman The celebrated composer discusses her wide-ranging musical career, and her inspirations

Did you grow up as part of a musical family?

and mishaps of musician Elizabeth Drinkwater. It was such fun recording the series!

There is an unsubstantiated rumour that one of my great-great grandfathers may have been an opera singer, but apart from that, I was the first in the family to show a real interest in playing an instrument – and it was quite a surprise to my parents because they weren’t musical at all! From the moment I started to learn to play the piano at 7 years old, I think I knew even then that I wanted to be a musician. By the time I got a place at the Guildhall School of Music and Drama I knew I wanted to be a composer.

What has been your career highlight?

Looking back, each project I’ve worked on has been the highlight of my career at the time; the next step along the way, if you like…

I’ve been so lucky to have been involved in so many brilliant things over the years – films, TV series, concerts, Royal events – so I can’t possibly raise one above the rest!

What are you currently working on?

How did your career get started?

Although the Guildhall composition course was a purely classical training, there was interaction with the drama department, so I was involved in some of the productions there. I knew I wanted to write film and TV scores, so I put together a showreel of music and sent it out to hundreds of directors and producers – pretty much every film and TV company in the country!

After almost two years I received a reply from a director who was making a film for Channel 4. He bravely took a chance on a new composer and I’ll always be grateful for that.

Who or what inspires you, and why?

When I’m writing for a film or production then I have the inspiration on screen which is a real gift for a composer! When I’m writing an album, on the other hand, I’ll have a concept in mind and that will kickstart the writing process. The Viking signature music was composed following visits to the beautiful ocean and river ships – which was the perfect inspiration!

Who would you like to dine with?

Mozart and Beethoven! I would love to spend even 5 minutes in their company.

What kind of food do you love most?

I love all types of fish – and simple pasta dishes too. Why? Because that’s pretty much

all I can cook, except for apple crumble – and despite my husband’s insistence to the contrary, we can’t eat that all the time!

Do you have a memory that stands out from a trip abroad?

I have so many lovely memories, but I enjoy anywhere that takes me to the sea.

Listening to the sounds of the ocean and watching the ever-changing waves is relaxing and invigorating at the same time. It’s no coincidence that so many great works of art and pieces of music have been inspired by the sea.

I’m writing a new orchestral album for Decca to mark the Queen’s 95th birthday, which will be released in June. It features music specially composed to reflect the reigns of 12 selected kings and queens, culminating in a celebratory piece for HRH Queen Elizabeth II. I’ve also written and will present a show for Classic FM – Music for Monarchy – which will look at the hugely varied music that’s been composed for royalty through the ages. There will be new scores for the BBC and Channel 4 for several upcoming television series. All of these projects were postponed last year, so I can’t wait to get going again!

What was the inspiration for the podcasts you’ve recently produced for Viking?

We thought, wouldn’t it be great to be able to escape virtually for an hour or so and go on one of the cruises from the comfort of our own homes! The wonderful cellist and writer Justin Pearson worked with us to create this 6-part series which takes in several Viking cruises, and we’ve built a light-hearted story around the adventures

From top: Composer Debbie Wiseman, OBE; Debbie conducts the National Symphony Orchestra while recording The Traveller at Abbey Road Studios

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Making memories From her home in Scotland, Susan Robertson crossed into the Arctic Circle for an unforgettable adventure

This page, clockwise, from above: Viking Sky illuminated by the northern lights; a sledge ride was one of the many highlights of the trip

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hen I thought about which memories to write about I was spoilt for choice, but I decided on our last ocean cruise, In Search of the Northern Lights. My husband, Andrew, and I live in the north of Scotland, where we get very cold and snowy winters and our friends thought we were mad going to Norway for an even colder holiday. However this cruise proved them wrong!

Having packed all our thermal underwear and woolly jumpers we joined Viking Sky in London to start our adventure. After a relaxing overnight cruise we woke in Stavanger. Having visited before on a Viking Homelands cruise we took the opportunity to explore more of this town by ourselves. A trip to

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the Oil Museum was a must as we live near Aberdeen, the oil capital of Europe. The visit was fascinating as we were able to relate to a lot of the exhibits.

With clear blue skies and no sign of snow we began to wonder when we would need all our winter gear. We needn’t have worried because the further north we cruised the more snow we saw and the colder it became. There was great excitement as we approached the marker for passing the Arctic Circle and we all had cameras at the ready to capture the occasion.

Our certificates are pinned up in our kitchen to remind us.

The wind was strong so we sailed on to Tromsø and were able to enjoy an extra day there. I really wanted to buy a reindeer hide and

when we went shopping we were amazed to find that the pavements are all heated to keep them snow-free. Feeling full of energy, we decided to go up and down in the cable car above the town and walk back to the ship.

What superb views over the whole area we had from the top and we were so lucky to have such clear blue skies. After a beautiful concert in Tromsø cathedral we got our first show of northern lights. A lovely end to the day.

PHOTOS: © SHUTTERSTOCK

REVIEW

The next day was a real highlight for us. This was the trip to the Sámi to find out all about their way of life and to meet their reindeer and ride on a sledge. What a lovely family and so welcoming to us all.

Andrew and I also had a very fast ride on the back of their skidoos as father and daughter raced each other. A bit speedier than the reindeer sledge!

Our next stop was Alta in the far north. A day out to see huskies and experience a ride almost as fast as the skidoo. Wandering around the town we were impressed by the wonderful ice sculptures, especially a full-size tractor, before going to the market where we chatted to a stall holder who travels all the way from Sweden to sell his goods.

In the evening we set off in buses to search for the northern lights. We weren’t sure whether they would dance for us as the weather was a bit cloudy but suddenly they appeared and we were mesmerised. What a spectacle to witness. Soon it was time to board the ship and start going back down south again but we still had Narvik and Bergen to look forward to before the end of the cruise.

From Narvik we had opted to

visit the Polar Park where we had knowledgeable guides who told us about the animals. It was wonderful to see moose, bears, wolves, musk ox and lynx fairly close by, although I wouldn’t like to meet any of them without the fences.

Almost the end of the cruise but we still had Bergen to explore.

Having been before we decided to take the funicular up the mountain and have a guided walk. It was a beautiful clear day and the views were magnificent. A fitting finale to a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

I had one last treat the next morning – my waffle in Mamsen’s before we said goodbye to newfound friends and the wonderful Viking crew. However, every time we look at my reindeer hide draped over the couch we are reminded of the unforgettable experiences we had on our In Search of the Northern Lights trip.

This page, clockwise, from above: The Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø; an aerial view of Tromsø, Norway; a reindeer was one of the many animals that Susan spotted on the journey

A 13-day 2022 In Search of the Northern Lights journey, from London to Bergen, or in reverse, starts from £3,990pp.

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This page: Soprano Lauren Fagan debuts as Violetta in La traviata at Opera Holland Park

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C U LT U R E

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR Opera Holland Park’s Anna Picard celebrates the company’s new outdoor setting and introduces the 2021 summer season

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wenty-five years old this summer, Opera Holland Park is the only opera company in London to enjoy the ease of access that comes with a central urban location and the natural beauty of surrounding gardens and woodland. Its global reputation is twofold: as a company that balances stylish productions of core repertoire and operatic rarities with year-round awardwinning community and education work; and as a place where artists, creatives and audiences feel equally at home.

This year there is a fresh twist to the summer season, which marks the company’s return to full productions after a year in which the arts fell silent. Beneath the theatre’s iconic canopy roof, a new 400-seat auditorium is being built to accommodate flexible socially-distanced seating that will be arranged each night according to the size of the ticket holders’ bubbles. The space has been reimagined by the acclaimed set designer, takis, to maximise the connection to the greenery of Holland Park, with an extended stage, a boutique feel, and reclaimed and sustainable materials.

The upcoming season is set to begin on 1 June and sees the return

of music theatre to Kensington with five full productions by Opera Holland Park. 2021 also marks the tenth anniversary of Opera Holland Park’s famous Young Artists scheme, which identifies and nurtures talented singers, directors, conductors and designers The first production of the season, Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro, features six graduates of the scheme, now emerging stars in their own right. The material in the opera is juicy: a marriage on the rocks, a wedding in peril, a riot of teenage hormones, and some of Mozart’s most sublime music.

Written in 1786, The Marriage of Figaro has never grown stale or fallen out of fashion. Perhaps because the trials of love, lust, infatuation, infidelity, jealousy and reconciliation are so familiar.

In the course of a single hectic day on Count Almaviva’s estate, Aguas Frescas, three couples are united or reunited in marriage, while a fourth pairing is hinted between Cherubino and Barbarina, youngest members of the household. Expect bursts of insight into human nature, a faultlessly constructed comedy, and music as fresh as a summer breeze.

Of the five works in Opera Holland Park’s 2021 season

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Above, from top: An artist’s impression of the new flexible seating arrangements at Opera Holland Park; the canopy protects audiences from the elements whilst enjoying an al fresco performance

PHOTOS: © OPERA HOLLAND PARK

only one has an urban setting.

La traviata is Parisian to its core, a fierce critique of conventional morality played out in the French capital’s hedonistic demimonde.

Verdi’s opera is as much an exercise in realism as it is a romance. Two forms of consumption drive the tragedy: the pulmonary tuberculosis from which Violetta Valéry is in remission when we first meet her, and the conspicuous consumption involved in maintaining her position as the most celebrated courtesan of her age.

Glittering dances and exquisite arias are contrasted in this powerful drama of love and loss. Champagne, cut flowers, high fashion, gambling, dining and dancing come at a price, whether funded by entertaining a consortium of lovers or a single, extremely wealthy benefactor.

So, alas, does happiness. Violetta abandons her apartment, her friends, her profession for Alfredo.

After three short months in the country with him, ‘revived by the breath of love’, her money runs out. Verdi’s music reminds us that the city does not care, that its appetite for distraction and luxury is unstoppable. Even as Violetta lies dying back in Paris, longing for Alfredo’s return, the hedonism continues outside on the streets, a raucous mardi gras chorus.

Set in the vineyards and orchards of Alsace, L’amico Fritz a pet. Any hope of taming her is another opera in which nature Co-produced with Charles Court is quickly lost. Teased by the plays a critical role. Suzel’s gift of Opera, this family favourite is a bunch of violets is the first signal famous for its wordplay, as romance Forester’s children, she dodges the attentions of a lustful dog, that Rabbi David’s choice of bride blossoms amid the daisies and radicalises the chickens, for his bachelor friend, Fritz, is the willows of Cornwall, despite the humiliates the cockerel and right one, despite their age gap. interventions of the police and finally escapes to the forest.

Fritz is moved by Suzel’s gesture, the Pirate King.

Janáček was too wise but remains reticent until an observer of nature to David devises a scheme The space has been reimagined his animal in which to bring the to maximise the connection to the sentimentalise characters but he did lovers together. greenery of Holland Park make them loveable, Mascagni’s fragrant, real and recognisable. airy writing blossoms into With the accompaniment of something warmer and richer in the The greenest and wildest of the Janáček’s exuberantly rhythmic ‘Cherry Duet’ between Fritz and five operas in the 2021 season is Suzel. Laced with charming arias The Cunning Little Vixen. Here, two score, The Cunning Little Vixen captures the joys, thrills, fears and echoes of Jewish folk melodies, sets of characters, one human, the and sorrows of our existence – other a cast of animals and insects, this new production of L’amico whether or not we have a tail. live, love, grow up and grow Fritz, a rarity in other houses, It couldn’t be easier to journey marks the welcome return of an old older as the seasons change in the to Seville, Paris, the Alsace, Moravia favourite to Opera Holland Park.

Moravian forest. Chief among the and Cornwall this summer, with A happy ending is also assured human characters is the Forester, Opera Holland Park. in Gilbert and Sullivan’s comedy, who first sees Vixen Sharp-Ears www.operahollandpark.com The Pirates of Penzance. when she is a cub and wants her for

BECOME A MEMBER AT

OPERA HOLLAND PARK WITH AN EXCLUSIVE FREE TRIAL FOR VIKING SUBSCRIBERS

Enjoy a summer of al fresco opera in our new socially distanced theatre The Marriage of Figaro Mozart La traviata Verdi The Cunning Little Vixen Janáček L’amico Fritz Mascagni The Pirates of Penzance Gilbert & Sullivan As a member you’ll enjoy exclusive benefits throughout the summer, including:

£8 off every ticket to our main-stage productions 10% off all food and drink at the theatre Discounts across our pre-season events No booking fees and free ticket exchanges

No commitment or payment necessary.

To redeem visit the Opera Holland Park website

operahollandpark.com/viking-offer

REVIEW

Russia by river Chris Purnell travelled the waterways of Russia, enjoying everything from vodka to ballet

Clockwise, from above: A stunning view of Moscow from the river; the famous domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral; sunset on the River Volga; Kizhi Pogost, the famous site on Kizhi Island

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e arrived at our ship, Viking Akun, on a beautiful May morning.

It was such a lovely day that I had no coat on and I will always remember the shudder of one of the crew members at my bare arms.

She told me “Madam, you are in

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Russia!” We later found that she was the Hotel Manager, the lovely Karoline. She reminded me often during the cruise about that first encounter. That was the start of a very memorable cruise, a fantastic experience that turned lifetime dreams into treasured memories.

Our first full day on board found us visiting the sumptuous Catherine Palace at Pushkin. We were the first group to arrive so had early access to the palace and wandered the rooms and halls before strolling through the vast grounds. We returned to Viking Akun for lunch, had a lazy afternoon exploring the ship and then on to the Cossack show in the evening, a fun-filled experience not to be missed. My husband, Bob, was persuaded up onto the stage to join in, great fun.

St. Petersburg is fabulous. We toured the Hermitage on day two and although we had been once

before it was still a great treat. An even bigger treat that evening was a visit to the ballet. Swan Lake was performed and was wonderful, an amazing included excursion and another forever-memory made. We returned to the ship quite late and found that the chef had prepared a goulash supper for us. Viking really does think of everything.

A kommunalka visit on day three was a real eye opener – an authentic look at how the residents live. Tea and cakes were served by our hostess and an interpreter. As we sailed from St. Petersburg that night, we had no idea just how many treats were waiting for us along the river. The next day we stopped at Mandrogy where we visited the open air craft museum and saw many local craftspeople displaying their skills. We also visited the vodka museum which was eye-popping! So many varieties, so little time, but we did our best!

PHOTOS: © SHUTTERSTOCK

REVIEW

was interesting to note the great differences between this school and schools in the UK. One of the most welcome surprises was on the next day, when we visited Yaroslavl, a fabulous city. After a very long walking tour we arrived at the local market. We admired the local produce and as we turned the corner found a Viking stand, complete with chef Leonidas and crew, ready with much-appreciated drinks and snacks for us.

The next day we arrived at Uglich, a pretty town with a cluster of churches alongside the river.

After visiting the churches we were taken by local bus, complete with icons, curtains and cushions, to visit a local family in their home.

We enjoyed snacks and homebrewed vodka, at 10.30am, whilst chatting about our lives.

That night we sailed for Moscow. Arriving at lunchtime, we were taken on the fabulous metro system into the city centre Kizhi Island the next day was for our walking tour. After the another lovely experience, the tour we were treated to a classical onion-domed churches and village folklore concert – it was such a buildings were beautiful against a wonderful evening. The sound bright blue sky of Lara's Theme – we all took We also visited the performed on the a lot of photos will stay vodka museum. So balalaika that day. Back with me forever. on board a sailWe also visited many varieties, away party had Pushkin so little time...but we The been prepared.

Museum of Fine We all needed Arts on the next did our best! a sleep in the day, a real treat! afternoon, the Our last day extra-large balconies providing the came far too soon but saw the perfect spot. culmination of a dream I have The cruise continued with had since childhood, to stand memories being made both on alongside St. Basil’s Cathedral in and off the ship. The wheelhouse Red Square. It didn’t disappoint! tour with lovely Captain Vladimir We then toured Red Square, the was both fun and informative. The Kremlin and the gigantic GUM scenic cruising for part of every day department store. This was truly was very welcome after the walking a cruise-of-dreams, made possible tours. On day seven, we visited the

by Viking, and made even more 14th-century Kirillo-Belozersky special by travelling with lovely Monastery and a local school. It friends, Sue and Carl, who we

met several years ago on a Viking cruise. The itinerary was fabulous, the staterooms excellent, the crew amazing, as usual. Thank you Viking, we can’t wait to see you again and make more memories.

A 13-day 2022 Waterways of the Tsars journey from St. Petersburg to Moscow, or in reverse, starts from £3,095pp.

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Love

AFFAIR

Catherine Collins celebrates the ever-changing views, photographed on a journey to Norway with Viking

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y love affair with the sea began a long time ago in New Zealand where I was born. We were never far from it and despite a near miss with it as a toddler, it became my best teacher. I learned to swim, sail and fish in it. I discovered the delights of moonlight on water and phosphorescence, and giant stingrays cruising in the calm water of early morning and evening.

Our young lives were ruled by tides and weather; when to launch and retrieve the boats featured heavily.

In my early 20’s I moved to London. No sea. I missed it terribly, but I embraced other interests, predominantly photography and design. Now I live by the sea again, and it’s as if I’d never left it.

This page, clockwise, from top left: A view of land looming on the horizon; sunset view from deck; Geirangerfjord in the distance

It brought my love of photography, design and the sea together in 15 days of utter perfection

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Above: Built in 1842, Geirangerfjord church is known for its traditional Norwegian style Below: Light casts beautiful shadows on the land

T R AV E L

From the moment I stepped on board, I was transfixed by the beauty of the ship whose every aspect is impeccably considered

Clockwise, from top left: The ship passes serene rocky bays; a glimpse of the midnight sun from deck; an aerial view of the ship, Viking Sea

In 2019, I began another love affair.

I did something I had never done before. I went on a cruise with Viking, to Norway, Into the Midnight Sun. It somehow brought my love of photography, design and the sea together in 15 days of utter perfection.

From the moment I stepped on board, I was transfixed by the beauty of the ship whose every aspect is impeccably considered and exquisite. But the views completely blew me away. I don’t think any photograph or description could ever do them justice. What could be more rewarding than travelling the world in the best floating hotel imaginable. Thank you Viking, for being the company you are, and for giving us the possibility to realise our dreams.

A 15-day 2022 Into the Midnight Sun trip, from Bergen to London, starts from £5,590pp.

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My ANTARCTIC Dr. Damon Stanwell-Smith, Head of Science and Sustainabilty at Viking Expeditions, reflects on his emotional connection with this icy wilderness

Clockwise, from above: Damon and his wife Hannah; beautiful Antarctica; Damon emerges from an ice hole with a plankton sample; Damon (back row, second from right) with the British Antarctic Survey wintering team, Signy Base, 1993; Damon’s 1993 diary entry describing a (cold!) water polo match

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“I

was an Antarctic diver.”

A simplified description of my early career, yet when mentioned in social settings nearly thirty years after I first successfully applied for work as a marine biologist with the British Antarctic Survey, I still feel a tingle of excitement and the sense of immense privilege to have had the opportunity to experience the greatest wilderness on the planet.

In 1992, I graduated from a marine biology degree at university and was immediately plunged into the extensive preparations

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required for a deployment to Signy Base in the South Orkney Islands.

With some pleasing symmetry, it included spending the summer in the (Northern) Orkney Islands, training in commercial diving within the deep and swirling waters of Scapa Flow. I couldn’t quite believe I was being paid to explore this diving Mecca of scuttled warships and Celtic mystery.

After the course, I spent a weekend with friends by the coast on the South of England. It was October, and we were jumping in and out of the seasonally frigid

sea, and I was the one complaining the most about feeling cold. I was teased about my impending choice of subaquatic career and was privately crushed by shivering doubt that I was making a monumental mistake.

However, the Southern Ocean beckoned and I was swept along with the regimented excitement of the long flights south, then boarding an ice-strengthened ship across the fearsome Scotia Sea to eventually reach our island home for the next three years. Myriad adventures followed – of discovery

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; DAMON STANWELL-SMITH

DISCOVERY

and self-discovery – with thirteen colleagues and many thousands of penguins and seals.

My research investigated the planktonic, drifting larvae of the underwater invertebrate animals that thrive in Antarctic waters and I immersed myself in endeavouring to understand their way of life.

However, my overriding memory of that time is the morning ritual of donning a neoprene drysuit and breathing apparatus and lowering myself through a hole chain-sawed through the sea ice. Swimming down, down. I can close my eyes and it is as vivid as yesterday, recalling those wind-swept icy sledge trips to our dive sites and the calm blue world beneath.

By 2005, my Antarctic love was expressed through seasonally working on an expedition ship as a specialist guide and expedition leader, indeed where I first met Jorn Henriksen, now Viking’s Director of Expedition Operations. Jorn and

I were requested to supervise the in-water safety of a world-record swimming attempt in Antarctic waters by the remarkable athlete and ocean protection advocate, Lewis Pugh. Watching Lewis as he meditated prior to his recordbreaking swims vicariously evoked my own profound emotions of connecting with this wildest of briny places.

Being in Antarctica is a visceral experience, and so hard to describe to those who have not (yet) had a chance to visit. My partner has patiently listened to my tales of polar adventures, yet my words and the media images of the White Continent cannot truly convey its majesty. And so, in 2019, we travelled South together and were married, in the old Whalers church in Grytviken, South Georgia. We continued on to the Antarctic peninsula, and it was a joy to see

my wife splash into the sea for a most brief of ‘polar plunges’.

Once again, memories of diving under the ice fill my mind.

I am now sitting at my desk in Cambridge in 2021, cocooned in the pandemic-induced isolation we have experienced recently. Remotely, I work with Viking colleagues to prepare our expedition vessels in readiness for voyages next year and beyond – and I am once again reflecting on cold waters. My wife has found that swimming in our local rivers has been her salvation. I am once again teased for finding the local waters rather too cold, and yet I still dream of the White Continent.

“I am an Antarctic diver.”

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Come fly WITH ME

Having combined a love of the natural world with the art of needle felting, Susan Beal tells us more about her latest project, sculpting 100 polar birds for Viking expedition ships

This page: An arctic tern made using sheep’s wool and beeswax

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have done many different Needle felting involves using a adding different coloured wool, things in my life, but I’m special needle with tiny barbs along or by applying lightfast ink for happiest making beautiful its length that, when poked into exceptionally subtle markings things with my hands. For the wool over and over, felt or compact and colourations that are difficult past eight years I have been making the fibers. It’s akin to sculpture or to achieve with felting. lifelike bird sculptures from sheep’s carving, but instead of removing Much of my inspiration comes wool and beeswax using the from where I live, in the simple process of needle I grew up in, on a Why birds? They’re like flying, house felting. It’s like the best farm in Vermont that has singing flowers and they lift my been in my family for four aspects of carving, painting, crochet and embroidery generations. I make my heart with their beauty rolled into one. birds in the studio where Needle felting is low tech my father used to paint. and peaceful – no noisy machines, material as with wood or stone, I grew up in a creative family, dust or fumes, no expensive, fancy the wool is compressed and shaped surrounded by my father’s oil and equipment. My dogs Bodi and into the desired form, somewhat acrylic paintings, my mother’s Tulsi, and cats Elfin and Lili, like to like with clay, but becoming denser quilts, braided rugs, cushions, hang out with me while I work. I the more it is felted. Think of and curtains and, later on, gifts of can hear the calls and songs of birds what happens with cotton candy handspun sweaters, woven blankets outside while I sculpt, often the if you squish it…it’s a bit like that. and needlepoint from my two same species that I’m sculpting.

Detailed markings are made by mothers-in-law.

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DESIGN

We always had lots of dogs and cats, rescued as strays or from shelters, as well as horses and cows on the farm. I hated when the cats, all excellent mousers, hunted for little animals, most especially birds. It broke my heart, though I cherish the experience of rescuing and caring for the wounded little creatures, or comforting them as they died. But all of it gave me a great love and respect for animals, both companion and wild, and I have never lived without them.

I first began needle felting in 2012 when I received a bounty of wool fleece after my first motherin-law passed away. Much of it was hand dyed using vegetables, herbs, flowers and fungi. Not being a spinner or weaver like she was,

I wasn’t sure what to do with so much wool. Then I stumbled across a book about needle felting and, intrigued, decided to give it a try. I ordered a felting needle, grabbed a handful of brown fleece, and made a little brown bird – or an ‘LBB’ as ornithologists fondly call them.

And that was that.

I was completely enchanted by this unique, relatively unknown art form. I made another bird, and another. I made birds that live on our land – chickadees, wrens, robins, kestrels, orioles and nuthatches. Eventually, my daughter suggested I open an Etsy shop online. On a whim, I did. I never intended for it to be anything but a fun way to honour all the effort my mother-in-law put into

growing, carding and dyeing so much wool. Why birds? I’m not sure, exactly, other than that they’re like flying, singing flowers, and they lift my heart with their beauty.

The orders trickled in slowly at first but gradually increased. I made birds for friends and collectors, and endangered birds for conservation groups. Then Viking contacted me and asked if I would like to make 100 different birds for their new expedition ships: penguins, petrels, terns, albatrosses, loons, pelicans, eagles, kingfishers, and dozens of others. It’s a dream come true, and quite an honour. It couldn’t be a more perfect way to combine my passion for art, beauty, animals, nature, and the environment. flightofheart.weebly.com

Clockwise from top left: A collection of Susan’s creations; Susan in her studio; the tools used to create Susan’s sculptures; a wire frame used in the process

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DESIGN Chair and coffee table From a selection at Nest

Natural Nordic Embrace the elements this Spring with a mix of wood and natural fibres

Silver sheepskin Baa Stool, £80

LSA International vase Very, £65

Skagerat deck chair Nest, £625

Serving board Habitat, £12

Textured throw Amara, £75

Rattan mirror George Home, £20

Sheepskin stool Baa Stool, £399 Coffee table Habitat, £195 Wooden floor lamp Soho Home, £295

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INTERVIEW

INSPIRING PEOPLE

Ghislaine Wood The curator discusses her exhibition highlights and her love of Egyptian history

How did your museum career get started?

After university I briefly went to work in the City, in a management consultancy firm, but really hated it. Fortunately, a friend of mine had a job at the V&A, and encouraged me to apply and I got my first job in the newly formed Research Department. I loved it and stayed at the V&A for 20 years.

What has been the highlight of your career to date?

I have been lucky to work on many exhibitions and projects and to work with brilliant people. I enjoyed being involved in the British pavilion at the Shanghai Expo, if only briefly.

Thomas Heatherwick’s design was so extraordinary and the project really reflected British creativity. In terms of my own exhibitions, I think it would have to be the Ocean Liners: Speed and Style show. It was such fun to put together and I was extremely proud of the innovative scenography. Visitors even took selfies as if they were on deck.

What inspires you, and why?

I’m reading a lot of science fiction at the moment – probably to do with the very strange times we are in. I love escaping into the extraordinary worlds created by the best sci-fi writers. Ian M. Banks and Margaret Atwood of course, but I’m also reading Cixin Liu’s The Three Body Problem trilogy, which

is amazing, and terrifying – not a comforting read it has to be said.

Who would you most like to have dinner with?

I would love to have dinner with my mother who is 90 years old and has advanced Alzheimer’s.

I would love for her to recognise us and just chat.

What kind of cuisine do you enjoy and any best dishes?

I went to Georgia on a trip last year and was blown away by the cuisine, incredible dishes with fruit and nuts, particularly walnuts and pomegranate. It was all absolutely delicious – particularly dish called Phkhali, a vegetable dish featuring walnut paste.

Clockwise, from above: Ghislaine Wood; Ghislaine loves Georgian cuisine; the recent Ocean Liners exhibition at the V&A Museum; Walking hippopotamus, 1880BC, Egypt, Sainsbury Centre, UEA

Do you have a travel-related memory that stands out?

When I was in my early 20s, I went to Egypt on my own and remember hiring a horse and a guide, and riding between the pyramids at Giza and the stepped pyramid at Saqqara. The vision of the pyramid across the desert is indelibly printed on my memory to this day. I really felt like I had gone back in time.

Any top travel destinations?

I have been to Japan a couple of times, but I would love to go back and get out of the big cities and see more of the beautiful country, particularly Hokkaido. Skiing in Hokkaido is at the top of my fantasy travel list!

What are your current projects?

We are working on a really exciting new exhibition for 2022 that will mark the 100-year anniversary of the discovery of the tomb of the Ancient Egyptian pharaoh, Tutankhamun. The show will look at the enduring

PHOTOS: ©PIERS MACDONALD PHOTOGRAPHY LTD/ SHUTTERSTOCK

Have you always been keen on arts and heritage?

Growing up, I wanted to be an actress, both my parents were actors and I thought that was a normal thing to do. When I got to university, where I studied art history, I realised I wasn’t really committed to acting. You need to live and breath it and have a huge dose of luck to get anywhere.

influence that ancient Egypt has had on Western world, from art to design, architecture to fashion. The Sainsbury Centre has a wonderful selection of ancient Egyptian pieces in its collection, so we are very much looking forward to working alongside these collections and to creating an exciting major new show.

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RIVERS

The DOURO The winding river that weaves its way through sleepy Portuguese villages, past historic wine cellars and out to sea at the city of Porto

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Left: An aerial view of the Douro River meandering its way through the countryside

he Douro was named ‘River of Gold’ by the Romans and the Phoenicians, who mined the precious metal in this arid corner of Portugal and used the waterway to transport the ore to the coast. A more romantic theory as to the origins of the name is that the river reflects the golden sunshine that warms the hillsides.

The Douro rises to the northeast of Madrid, flowing west across central Spain before creating a natural border between Spain and Portugal for 96km, and turning west at Barca d’Alva, from where it flows in a series of gentle curves towards the Atlantic, just beyond the city of Porto. High in the hills, sleepy villages are guarded by ruined castles and beyond the sheer-sided river valley sprawl lavish, whitewashed country homes belonging to port-growing families.

The navigable stretch of the Douro has been tamed today by a series of dams and deep locks, so ships can sail to the Spanish border. The scenery is some of the most spectacular on the Iberian peninsula, the sheer slopes either side of the river, lush with vines producing the region’s port grapes.

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This page, clockwise, from top left: Port wine barrels, wine cellar of a winery in Gaia, Porto; the blue and white tiles so synonymous with Portuguese architecture; the colourful city streets of Porto, as seen from across the River Douro Opposite: The enchanting back streets of old Salamanca

PHOTOS: © ALAMY; AWL IMAGES

in the first instance, it was the wealthy British merchants settling in the city of Porto towards the end of the 17th century who began to produce port. In the early 18th century, the river was crammed with flat-bottomed rabelo boats, each one with a single sail, transporting thousands of barrels of port downstream from the country estates to the cellars at Vila Nova de Gaia, sprawling elegantly over the steep bank opposite the city of Porto. You will still see the occasional rabelo on the river today but their purpose now is solely decorative; grapes are now transported by truck. In 2001, the entire region was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its beauty and historic interest. Porto itself is the magnificent baroque Mateus Palace, 150,000 ancient volumes so second largest city in Portugal. made famous by the Mateus Rosé precious that visitors are only The famous metal bridge spanning wine labels. Lavish interiors aside, allowed to peer through glass. the Douro, Dom Luís, is strongly the palace is set in formal gardens Most of the towns visited along reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower featuring cedar-lined walkways, the Douro are located in the in Paris in its architecture; and sculpted hedges and serene rolling hills beyond the river valley. the designer, Théophile Seyring, ornamental ponds.

Bustling Lamego is dominated studied under Eiffel.

The narrow river A highlight of The scenery is some of the most spectacular valley itself is mainly any Douro voyage is save the on the Iberian peninsula, the sheer slopes uninhabited, a day in Salamanca, occasional hamlet or whitewashed Spain’s ‘golden either side of the river, lush with vines house overlooking city’ and university the vineyards, which is part of the town. Tucked away in a quiet, rural by the sanctuary of Our Lady of joy of sailing here. An exception corner of Castile-Leon, a couple of Remedies, perched on top of a is sleepy Pinhão, which has one of hours’ drive from Vega de Terrón, hill overlooking the town with the world’s most exquisite railway the limit of the Douro’s navigable ornamental steps cascading stations, adorned with blue-andstretch, the city’s sandstone walls down the wooded hillside. Figueira white azulejos tiles, depicting and spires blaze in the sunshine. de Castelo Rodrigo is a tiny, colourful scenes from the port The university was founded 12th-century walled village high industry in the 1930s and a reminder in the 13th century and was in the mountains, surrounded by of how dramatically life on the river has considered one of the finest in olive groves and wild lavender, changed over just a few decades.

Europe. The old library houses while Vila Real is the site of the

RIVERS

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Rediscovering the

Low Countries Carol and Jeremy Davies-Webb look back at the highlights of their trip to Holland and Belgium

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REVIEW

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/AWL

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n April 2018, seven friends ventured on Viking Baldur for the Tulips and Windmills cruise. We are a diverse group, friends from 40 years ago, ex-work colleagues from 20 years ago and newer Viking friends (yes, we met on a cruise and are now firm travelling companions).

We are all based in the UK and we had journeyed to most of the destinations offered but decided we would go for the adventure, relaxation and luxury Viking provides. What an adventure it proved to be. Here are just a few of the unforgettable memories...

We all arrived in Amsterdam on different flights or by train, two from “the West Country”, one from “Up North” and four of us directly to Amsterdam by Eurostar.

We had all visited Amsterdam on many occasions but tried to find something new. And we did – the Amsterdam Observatory and Sensational Swing, or A’DAM Lookout, Overhoeksplein, directly opposite the main railway station and reached by a free ferry. Flying free from the building with nothing underneath you but a sheer drop of 100m.

Two days later we were in the town of Hoorn and were taken on a walk around the lovely town. At the end of the walk we went to an apartment where we were hosted by two delightful young people, given amazing coffee and cake, and we all regard this as one of

the highlights of our trip.

Ghent was a real eye-opener for us. We had heard of it but had never visited. What an amazing town, all very accessible and easy to get around. We also visited Bruges and took the opportunity to see Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child, reputedly the only sculpture by the artist outside of Italy.

On the 27th April it is King’s Day, and we joined in with the celebrations, with the ladies in our group wearing orange feather boas (those feathers surfaced for many weeks after the cruise), the gents in orange trilbies. Even a café we visited in Veere gave us orangecoloured cakes and coffee.

But the pièce de résistance was

our return to Amsterdam. Two highlights stood out – a visit to the Hermitage Amsterdam where we learnt the story of the Night Watch and then to the Rijksmuseum to see the painting in all its glory, and afterwards, a visit to the renowned Keukenhof gardens for the spectacular floral displays.

All in all, an amazing cruise, and the whole Viking experience was terrific, as always. We loved all the new experiences along the way and we would recommend this trip to anyone, even if they have already been to The Low Countries.

This page, clockwise, from top left: Beautiful orchids; an interesting daffodil-inspired installation; Carol and Jeremy with friends; spectacular tulips; the Sensational Swing over Amsterdam Opposite: Windmills dot the landsccape

A 10-day 2022 Tulips & Windmills round-trip from Amsterdam, starts from £1,895pp.

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Viking BOOK CLUB Each month, we invite you to take part in our Book Club.

Read on for a taster of some of the reviews that readers have sent in recently

JOIN OUR BOOK CLUB

www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk/why-viking/community/book-club.html

WE GALLOPED THROUGH THE LOUVRE Viking guest Stuart Hannabuss looks at Mark Twain’s travel travails

This page: Florence Cathedral stands out above the rooftops of the city that Mark Twain and friends visited during their tour of Europe

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Many of us keep ourselves going at the moment by dreaming of future holidays. Perhaps cruises like the ones we used to have – great places, lovely people, super nosh.

‘One day soon,’ we say. We have our memories, check our diaries, look again at the pictures. Can’t be narrow-minded if you travel a lot, American writer Mark Twain said.

He is the guy who wrote kids’ books Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn, of course. And much else, including the travelogue The Innocents Abroad, published in 1869. A group of Americans came to Europe to see the sights, crossed the Med to the Holy Land (they were ‘pilgrims’ after all), and went back home again. Ever since, ‘innocents abroad’ has been used to describe naïve but determined tourists. We love this in travel books and films – think Bill Bryson, Tony Hawkes, Michael Palin, Michael Portillo – fun, but stuff that makes you think.

Twain does that too.

‘Florence pleased us for a while’, he tells us. Too many damned pictures, too much to take in, and far too many beggars. The guides speak bad English and everyone tries to fleece us. And don’t get me started on having a Turkish bath.

It was ‘worth a kingdom’ to be on

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board ship once more for civilized company and a good clean up.

Once there, we got to wondering: Notre Dame was impressive, Venice too, but with evidence of decay. Why all this reverence for old things? America was the New World and, as the Yankee told King’s Arthur’s court in another of Twain’s stories, the American message was about the future and not the past, technology and not chivalry. They deplored the wealth of the church alongside the poverty on the streets. They gasped at the majesty of the buildings and the awesome antiquity of the ruins, but found the relics disgusting.

Twain’s tone is equivocal, part

burlesque, part critique, which is why the book stays in print and speaks to us today. The actual trip is never quite what the guidebook promises: it can be worse, sometimes wonderfully better.

Twain travelled a great deal throughout his life, usually to publicise his books. Once safely home in New York, he reflects on the whole trip – ‘the grand pilgrimage is over’. Maybe things weren’t so bad after all. We were all tired but we were happy. Hope, too, we’re not so narrow-minded as we were before, broadens the mind, they say. Sustains the dreams, we’ll probably go again – somewhere different this time. One day soon.

BOOK CLUB

YOUR BOOK CLUB REVIEWS THE OCTOBER MAN

by Ben Aaronovitch

I enjoy a good ‘Who Dunnit’ and the fact that the story was based in Germany, a country I have loved cruising in with Viking, meant I could not wait to get started. I must confess to being a little apprehensive when realising there was a science fiction twist. However, I found myself believing in the main characters of Tobi and Vanessa and it had an interesting plot to follow. A light-hearted approach to what can sometimes be a very dark subject, the book certainly stretches the reader’s imagination.

Ed Davies

Aaronovitch writes detective stories that have a magical twist and if you have not previously been bitten by this strange mix, this one is a good place to start. The novella is set in the Mosel Valley near Trier and has an easy style. It combines humorous and sharp writing with a genuine feel for the area. The descriptions place you firmly in the steep, shaly vineyards as the vines are starting to ripen and the tale is a perfect combination of history, legend, magic and detective story.

Caroline Maddison 10 MINUTES 38 SECONDS IN THIS STRANGE WORLD

by Elif Shafak

The tool of using the time between death and brain death, 10 minutes 38 seconds, was an interesting way to follow Tequila Leila’s life from birth

to the end. She had a tough life but throughout the whole book there is a sense of personal strength told through her friendships and loyalties to other people. I want to go to Istanbul now to soak up the Bazaar, to watch the people going about their daily lives and breathe in the air.

Nigel Meredith

Even if you’ve never been to Turkey you get a real insight into customs and lifestyle. Religion and tradition spread their arms wide and then pull them in, restricting and ruling the behaviour of the various people whose lives we merely touch upon but who create an impression that lasts much longer than 10 minutes and 38 seconds.

Brenda Mills JOURNEYS IN THE WILD- THE SECRET LIFE OF A CAMERAMAN

By Gavin Thurston

Given the amount of horror stories it contains, this book is strangely compelling. It is a scary, enthralling, addictive read. I found it hard to put down. It is the sort of book that makes you glad that someone else has done the travelling. I love travelling, and I have been to some wonderful places, but by Thurston’s standards I am a real softie. It is clear that Thurston is not just a skilful observer of animal behaviour. Over the years he has amassed some wonderful material on his fellow humans, and he tells it all in a highly readable manner.

Caroline Wickham-Jones

This is not a book I would have usually chosen to read, but I have loved it. Gavin’s experiences stayed

with me for a while – escaped octopus in a car, antics with a witch doctor, overturned jeeps in Russia, active volcanoes in Hawaii.

He certainly lives life to the full and has some amazingly close shaves.

Fiona Fletcher THE OTHER END OF THE LINE

By Andrea Camilleri

More than the usual murder mystery story, this book includes lots of detail of refugees landing in Sicily.

Various views are expressed, but Moltalbano expresses sympathy for the plight of these people fleeing war and poverty, which perhaps echoes Camilleri’s viewpoint and brings the remit of the novel to a current and very real human crisis.

Robin Wood THE THURSDAY MURDER CLUB

By Richard Osman

I couldn’t wait to start this book and I wasn’t disappointed. It was like having a gossip with a friend. The wit throughout was tangible and the plot moves on so fast with so many twists and turns that you want to keep turning the pages for more.

An absolute delight of a book.

Bette Haley

This was such an enjoyable book.

Completely quintessentially English with its gentle humour and great characterisations. Some of the characters seemed so familiar. I am very much looking forward to a second book.

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BACK ON BOARD with Karine

Executive Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen, recalls her recent time on board Viking Star and Viking Jupiter

Clockwise, from above: Karine catching up with the crew of Viking Jupiter; Karine serving Norwegian dish pølse og lompe

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n February, I was fortunate to bring Finse and Charlie with me on board Viking Star and Viking Jupiter for a ten-day work trip in Kristiansand, where two of our six ocean vessels were in warm layup awaiting the restart of operations. After almost a year of COVID confinement, I admit I was secretly looking forward to delicious prepared meals, and having my bed properly made by someone else, but I quickly discovered that what I had missed more, much more, than the luxury of service, or the comfort of the ships, was human contact. Being on board, protected by our health protocol of daily,

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simple, non-invasive saliva PCR testing, gave me a sense of freedom I had not felt on land for an entire year.

While our ships have been in warm layup, our crew has been busy, keeping them shipshape and ready to restart at short notice. Having ships on standby hopefully only happens once in their lifetime (and once in ours!), and as hard as this year has been on the world, we must try to find some silver linings.

A silver lining for me – being on board – was getting to know some of our crew much better. Heartfelt conversations about their families, lives and homes, their childhoods

and growing up in different parts of the world, allowed my mind to travel the world, without moving my body an inch.

I travelled with video technician Mahesh, to his family’s modest mango farm in the village of Madhavamala, in southern

PHOTOS: © VIKING

COLUMN

India, where his bride is waiting to meet him for the first time when he returns home next month.

He shared with me pictures of his new family home, and the Hindu housewarming ritual of having a cow be the first to enter the home, ideally “doing its business inside” as Mahesh said politely, to bring good luck to the marriage. Hotel manager Sujith joined our conversation and said that in his home town in India, the cow has to enter backwards for the luck to really last!

Within minutes of my mind in southern India, I was transported to the tropical island of Carabo in the Philippines, talking with Hilda

about her childhood growing up on this tiny exotic island with no electricity, apart from the night light from the moon and the fireflies; where their toys were found in nature; and where she would hang off the outrigger on the island canoe – used to go grocery shopping on the neighbouring, larger island – to learn how to swim in the crystal-clear waters, with an empty gallon and old rope tied around her waist as a life vest.

A childhood that was bereft of material surplus, but absolute paradise to Hilda and all of us listening, and a place that is now top of my travel bucket list after

seeing her eyes shine with delight in describing her privileged upbringing and recalling stories from her childrhood. I wasn’t actually travelling anywhere physically but in a matter of minutes my mind had travelled around the world.

To fear another person for no reason, but the air between us, is a strange mindset we have all had to live with throughout the duration of this pandemic.

And I think it has become clear to many of us, after having been by ourselves for such a long time,that human contact is indeed a fundamental need, quite essential to our wellbeing.

Clockwise, from top left: Celebrating Valentine’s Day with Viking umbrellas on Viking Star; Finse and Charlie make some new friends; Hilda encounters snow for the first time and tries on expedition gear; Carabo Island, in the Philippines

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MAGIC GREAT LAKES

of the

Oonagh Turner explores the natural beauty of the chain of lakes that lie between the USA and Canada

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ike great inland seas, these bodies of fresh water are fringed by quaint lakeside villages, thick woodland, lighthouse-dotted beaches and mighty cities. Providing a natural border between Canada and the US, the Great Lakes are a series of interconnected masses of water that flow from Lake Superior. The journey starts life as precipitation, filling up the great scars in the north American landscape that were left by receding glaciers. The water passes the sleepy Canadian villages of Lake Huron, laps the shores of isolated islands, meanders down and criss-crosses the border to America where it provides a scenic

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backdrop for electric cities like Chicago and Detroit. The water flows into Lake Erie, the shallowest of the Great Lakes, before it takes a plunge over the Niagara Falls to reach its final lake – Lake Ontario.

The lakes are a natural spectacle and together encapsulate the essence of American and Canadian culture.

LAND OF ADVENTURE

On Lake Superior, the northern shores are peppered with the expansive national parks of Canada – Lake Superior Provincial Park, Pukaskwa National Park – dense forests that look out over rocky shores and rolling hills that cater to keen hikers. The largest of

the lake’s islands is Isle Royale, home to its own isolated bays and lakes offering kayaking and scuba diving opportunities. At Thunder Bay, keen adventurers can try out the trails of the Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, with its sweeping vistas and towering granite cliffs.

Elsewhere, on the northern shores of Lake Huron, the water is sheltered by the land that juts in and forms Georgian Bay. This area of land - the Bruce Peninsula - divides Georgian Bay from the rest of Lake Huron and is home to Flowerpot Island – famous for its bizarre sea stack rock formations – pillars of limestone shaped by years of erosion from the elements.

PHOTOS: © ALAMY

LAKES

Known for its windswept pines, plentiful fishing and endless beaches, the summer months are popular with tourists keen for a taste of lakeside life out on the bay. The north of Huron quietens around September, when the tourists have left but the water is still warm enough for kayaking out among the bay’s 32 historic lighthouses and 30,000 islands.

Visitors take advantage of the bay’s aquatic highway and access the region’s top attractions by boat, or visit the Fathom Five National Marine Park – the first park of its kind in Canada which offers visitors the opportunity to see 22 underwater shipwrecks, either by

diving or on a glass-bottomed boat.

On Mackinac Island, in Lake Huron’s US side, a charming island awaits, known as a haven for cyclists as vehicles are banned.

Visitors might want to opt for horse-drawn carriage for an historic discovery, visiting sites like the Grand Hotel – a Victorian-era building with the world’s largest front porch.

NIAGARA FALLS

Adventure-seekers might also wish to head for where the water passes from Lake Erie and funnels into Lake Ontario, straddling US and Canadian territory and flowing under the Rainbow Bridge. After

its lengthy journey, it’s here where the water rushes and thunders over three iconic natural waterfalls. The most spectacular and famous of the three is Horseshoe Falls, so named for its rounded formation. The movement of water and its sheer power creates a spellbinding mist that rises and soaks the smiling faces of every tourist who visits.

Holiday makers can take elevators to a lower vantage point behind the falls for a real feel of the falls’ force, with the added option to board a boat for a closer look.

The dramatic waterfalls marks the water’s final flurry before it narrows to all but disappear along the St. Lawrence River and out to sea.

This page: Fall foliage on the north shore of Lake Superior

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Clockwise, from top left: The ethereal beauty of Lake Superior; a mesmerising cityscape on the shores of Lake Ontario; sunset over Lake Michigan; wild grasses on the edges of Lake Michigan; the view of the lakes, as seen from space; a lighthouse on Lake Erie; Chicago’s skyscrapers towering over the city; the clear waters of Lake Superior

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LAKES

CITY BUZZ

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ ALAMY

On Lake Michigan, the bustling cities that cling to the water’s edge are the peak attractions and feel a million miles away from the silent and hushed shores of Canada.

Chicago is famed for its high-flying architecture, like the stratospheric glass-floored Willis Tower, or the neo-Gothic skyscraper Tribune Tower, while on street level, wind tunnels through the streets give it its affectionate name – The Windy City. Top chefs and street food vendors alike put this city on the foodie map, and every year the city comes to life with rollicking music festivals, with thousands making their way to Chicago especially for the occasion.

Milwaukee, also on Lake Michigan, offers much to discover but is often overlooked in favour of the dazzling lights of neighbouring Chicago. Settled by the Germans in the 19th century, it is to this day known for its beer-making. It also plays host to a plethora of museums and galleris, with state-of-the-art architectural landmarks like the Milwaukee Art Museum, and the Harley-Davidson Museum. Come evening time, walk the city streets and you’ll discover a throng of stylish restaurants.

At Sarnia, Lake Huron’s water flows through a small gap of land and past Detroit to make its way into Lake Erie. Another electric city, Detroit attracts with its arts

scene and boutiqe, hipster cafes, galleries and chocolate shops.

Art Deco skyscrapers punctuate the skyline and at night, sultry jazz clubs beckon as music floats down the city streets.

On Lake Ontario, Toronto hugs the shoreline. A Canadian capital, the city’s multiculturalism manifests in its foods, languages, night life and arts scene, and a spectacular 200 cultures are represented here.

Toronto’s CN Tower is one of the city’s most iconic structures, but there are plenty of others to discover. All the while, the water of the Great Lakes provides a mighty backdrop, lazily flowing on its way out to sea.

Clockwise, from top right: Niagra Falls; views from the Aula, the stunning panoramic al fresco auditorium; a map detailing the geographical location of each lake, and the US-Canada border

An 8-day 2022 Great Lakes Explorer trip from Milwaukee to Thunder Bay starts from £5,795pp.

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CITY GUIDE

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; ALAMY

Toronto O n the western fringes of Lake Ontario sits bustling Toronto, a multicultural city where more than 200 cultures are represented in the city streets.

With residents having roots in all corners of the globe, world foods, cultures and customs come together seamlessly to make the city what it is. Toronto’s arts scene is unrivalled, with a bountiful array of museums, theatres and galleries like the Art Gallery of Ontario which features more than 95,000 works, and the shard-like structure of the Royal Ontario Museum, which unveils a fascinating history of Canada and beyond. Elsewhere, architecture dazzles, with old red brick juxtaposing against glass, and King Street West next in the pipeline with Frank Gehry designs for twisting skyscrapers extending up to 289 metres in the sky. Come evening time, the sun sets and casts a pink glow across the lake and twinkling city lights flicker on and set the stage for its nightlife.

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Canada’s largest city is known for its cosmopolitan charm, varied arts scene and splendid foodie offering

Don’t miss

• Graffiti Alley, south of Queen Street and west of Spadina, features seven blocks of vibrant outdoor art.

• Caribana is the largest single-day parade in North America. With a route of 3.6km, the festival is a day-long celebration of Caribbean culture and heritage in Canada • Toronto’s CN Tower is one of the city’s most iconic structures and offers the best views over the surrounding landscape. Head up for sunset and watch as the whole city bathes in a golden orange hue.

• Perched east of Downtown, the Distillery District is a historic landmark and energetic neighbourhood that once housed a whisky distillery and today is visited for its hip bars, boutiques and outdoor galleries.

Fast facts

Toronto is extremely multicultural, with a Little Italy, Little Portugal and Chinatown. All areas are marked with dual-language street signs written in both English and a language other than French.

• There are over 8,000 restaurants in the city ofToronto, meaning it would take you some 22 years to try them all if you tried a new one every night.

• There are an estimated 10 million trees in the city's public parks, streets and squares, from maples to backyard oaks.

INSIDER TIPS Explore the arts Discover the bohemian neighbourhood of Kensington Market, where Victorian buildings house boutique shops and arts spaces.

Foodie favourite Toronto’s rich and diverse food scene is yours for the eating. Head downtown to the St. Lawrence Market to sample traditional Canadian dishes.

Above: The Toronto skyline is dominated by the CN Tower, a communications and observation tower

Welcome to a better world Nova New Opportunities is proud to partner with Viking, a supporter of our community work in London

Since 1983, Nova has been positively impacting people’s lives. On the grassroots level, we offer adult education and advice for people to find new opportunities in life and a family programme with fantastic experiences for children, parents and carers. In parallel we run a series of events that bring people together across boundaries to build connections and learn about and from one another.

Our mission is to build a more inclusive and socially cohesive society and a better world for all.

We would love for you to join our journey - there are numerous ways that you can support our growing portfolio of work.

novanew.org.uk o Please get inpotsosuibcilhitiets exploe.vreolpteh@enovanew.org.uk mik

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