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EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Spring 2019 £3.95
Cool Cuba D I S C O V E R T H I S M A G I C A L I S L A N D PA C K E D W I T H C U LT U R E A N D H I S T O R Y
PHOTOGRAPHY MASTERCLASS How to capture the essence of your travels
TRAVEL TRENDS
Our top destinations for 2019
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Viking
WELCOME
A spring in our step Welcome to the spring edition of Explore More. At this time of new beginnings, we’ve put together our top destination trends for 2019 to inspire you for the year ahead. From pulsating tango beats on the streets of Argentina to commemorating 30 years since the collapse of the Berlin Wall, there are plenty of global events to enjoy. A first-time cruiser writes about the enlightening experience of a river trip in Provence, full of onboard surprises and cultural highlights. Further afield, we’ve been learning about life in Cuba – a country whose people have developed enormous creativity under extraordinary circumstances. Lifelong lessons in photography are yours in our feature on taking that perfect holiday picture, and for the green-fingered among you, garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes has some wonderful tips to get your garden looking fresh this spring. And why not bring your travels to your kitchen and try Karen Burns-Booth’s tantalising selection of her favourite recipes from around the world? New this year is our short stories feature and this issue we’re proud to introduce Wendy Holden and her romantic tale set in Russia. For those in London, there’s an exciting new Edvard Munch exhibition at the British Museum from April, an artist close to the heart of the Viking family. From all of us here, we look forward to seeing you soon at our events in 2019.
T WEET US:
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FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE VIKING EXPLORER SOCIETY ON OUR WEBSITE
Managing Director, Viking UK
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Co n t e n t s more
EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Spring 2019 £3.95
Cool Cuba
24 TRAVEL TRENDS The latest ideas infuencing how and
PHOTOGRAPHY MASTERCLASS How to capture the essence of your travels
where we will be travelling this year, plus global events to book
28 SPECTACULAR SPRING Award-winning garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes eagerly anticipates spring
TRAVEL TRENDS
Our top destinations for 2019
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Cover: Authentic American cars bring a retro vibe to Havana’s buzzy streets. Photo: Getty Images
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10 CUBAN COOL A surprise discovery of exciting culture, retro vibes and fascinating history on this resilient island 18 AMERICAN DREAMS Retrace the footsteps of the first Britons to reach Boston and enjoy an East Coast adventure including Canadian cities and scenes of autumn leaves
D I S C O V E R T H I S M A G I C A L I S L A N D PA C K E D W I T H C U LT U R E A N D H I S T O R Y
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IN THIS ISSUE...
34 PICTURE PERFECT Photographer Chris Caldicott explains the techniques involved in creating the ultimate photograph 44 FIRST IMPRESSIONS Fond recollections from a firsttime river cruiser down the Rhône aboard Viking Heimdal
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18 30 28 50 FEATURES
REGULARS
17 MAGICAL DANUBE Enjoy Budapest, Bratislava, Vienna
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VIKING NEWS The latest news and events
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YOUR WORLD Letters and photos from our guests
and Passau from the elegant Viking Legend and Viking Prestige
33 DISCOVER ASIA Immerse yourself in four countries in Southeast Asia on one journey through Indochina
42 POSTCARD FROM KIEV The enchanting capital proves
30 COLOUR POP Update your wardrobe – choose bold shades to bring life to neutrals with our fashion edit
a fascinating stop off on our Kiev, Black Sea & Bucharest cruise
59 KARINE’S TRAVELS Karine Hagen’s latest adventures
48 MEET AND GREET Two Viking staff members share
60 BOOK CLUB River-themed reads to get you in the mood for your next cruise – where will they take you?
50 A TASTE OF TRAVEL Inspired by her love of travel,
68 CITY GUIDE: TOYKO Explore one of the most exciting and vibrant cities on Earth as you venture to the Far East
54 TOP TEN COFFEE SPOTS How you drink your coffee is important, but so is where you go to have it
70 CITY GUIDE: BERLIN One of Europe’s most cultural,
62 ALICE THE GREAT Writer Wendy Holden transport us
72 CITY GUIDE: ČESKÝ KRUMLOV This Czech Republic town has preserved some of the best Renaissance architecture
their stories and insider tips on the perfect cruise
Karen Burns-Booth shares recipes from around the world
to romantic Russia with a tale of rediscovery
creative cities celebrates 30 years of unification
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Viking NEWS A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking
New HORIZONS We’ve been working hard to help you plan your next adventure. With several new itineraries launching over the next couple of years, fresh travel opportunities await. The new Greek Odyssey journey is an 11-day round-trip from Athens to the ancient empires of the Aegean. With new ports of call including Volos, Thessaloníki and Nafplio, this new itinerary reveals the region’s gems from 2021. For discoveries further afield starting this year, Journey Along the Pacific Coast covers eight countries in 27 days. Starting in Santiago, Chile, and finishing in Los Angeles, this is an enlightening cruise along the west coast of the Americas. There are new opportunities to span two of the world’s most iconic 6
seas – the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. From 2020, you can go from Puerto Rico to St. Martin, Portugal, Spain and Gibraltar, France, Italy, Greece and Croatia on the new 26-day Caribbean & Mediterranean Odyssey journey. Alternatively, start in Italy, travel via France, Spain, and Portugal crossing to Bermuda and Miami on the Mediterranean & Atlantic Crossing. For a truly far-flung voyage, the new 2020-2021 Viking World Cruise will span 161 days, six continents and 75 ports, with overnight stays in 13 cities. With six new ports of call, this exciting trip will include Viking's inaugural visit to the Hawaiian Islands.
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NEWS
DATES FOR THE DIARY
New ships set sail
This year, we are adding seven new river ships to our fleet, including six additional awardwinning Viking Longships, which will sail the most popular itineraries on the Rhine, Main and Danube. The additional ship on order for 2019 will be designed specifically for our Portugal’s River of Gold itinerary. As a result of high demand, our new sister ship will join our existing fleet of three ships on the Douro. For ocean cruisers, Viking Jupiter sets sail this year on a variety of Mediterranean and Northern Europe itineraries, as well as to South America.
Come and see us at one of these fantastic events over the next few months:
AWARDS SEASON
We are delighted to share Viking’s achievements in recent months. We were the winners of:
2-7 July 2019 Hampton Court flower show 1-7 July 2019 Greenwich Music Time
BEST RIVER CRUISE LINE; BEST MIDSIZE SHIPS CRUISE LINE; (British Travel Awards 2018) BEST ENRICHMENT, VIKING RIVER CRUISES; BEST ITINERARIES, VIKING RIVER CRUISES; BEST ITINERARIES, VIKING OCEAN CRUISES; BEST SPA, VIKING OCEAN CRUISES; BEST VALUE FOR MONEY, VIKING OCEAN CRUISES (Cruise Critic UK Editors Picks) WE ARE THRILLED TO HAVE BEEN NAMED TOP OF THE TABLE IN THE OCEAN CRUISES CATEGORY IN WHICH? RESEARCH. What a terrific start to 2019!
THE ARTS SCENE We are proud to be main sponsor for the second year at Greenwich Music Time. The six-day, live music festival will be held from 1–7 July at the historic Old Royal Naval College overlooking the River Thames in London and headline acts include Sir Cliff Richard, Madness and Paul Weller. Also in London, our friends at The British Museum have announced a new exhibition, Edvard Munch: Love and Angst (11 April-21 July). In this collaboration with the Munch Museum in Oslo, explore his remarkable work, some of which we are proud to showcase on board our ocean ships.
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
21-25 May 2019 Chelsea Flower Show
THE YEAR OF THE PIG
Chinese New Year is on 5 February and 2019 is the Year of the Pig. In Chinese culture, the pig is a symbol of wealth, but it is the twelfth of all zodiac animals. According to one myth, the Jade Emperor said the order would be decided by when they arrived to his party; the pig was last because he overslept! SPR ING 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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Your WORLD
We catch up with where you’ve been and what you’ve seen on your Viking cruises... and where you’re off to next
YOUR LETTERS Just back from our Douro cruise starting on 28 October. We are lucky to have been on a dozen or so cruises with various cruise lines, including Viking. I have to say the Douro cruise had the best captain, crew, programme director and chef that we have ever had. Thanks to all on board! Ian and Elspeth Jackson
Friends reunited We thought you might be interested to read about our informal group of friends who have together formed the wholly informal ‘Viking Explorer Society GB’. We’re sorry if we have ignored any copyright with this! We are three couples who met on the Jan ‘17 West Indies Explorer on Viking Star. We found we were all seasoned river cruisers with Viking and, indeed, we have now amassed over 16 river cruises in total with Viking, including China. We enjoyed a number of extremely convivial dinners in the restaurant and in Manfredis, together with pleasant times in the various lounges and terraces and on trips and excursions, all made particularly special by the excellent crew. We became good friends and subsequently went on Panama, Central America & Cuba on Viking Sky and will soon go to South America & the Caribbean on Viking Sea. We meet somewhere in the UK several times a year to explore different parts of the United Kingdom and to plan future cruises with Viking. Steve and Julie Burns
A taste of Russia With an Eastern European background in my genetic makeup, and an adult daughter who had been entranced by Russian history while at university, a trip 8
to Russia had always been high on the to-do list. This October it came to fabulous fulfilment with a 13-day cruise on Viking Truvor from Moscow to St Petersburg via the rivers and lakes of this vast and incredible sub-Arctic paradise. We took part in almost everything, in between a glorious selection of shore excursions. Whether it was learning about Russian wines, the history of Russia, a bit of the language, vodka tasting – when my head and legs suddenly stopped functioning in unison – the next day’s trips, or a quiet drink in the lounge, it was all designed to enhance our experience of this wonderful country and charming people. There were always marvellous surprise extras within the tours we took and more delightful surprises on return to the ship, for example, a glass of Russian lemonade as we boarded the ship, vodka and balloons or punch and caviar on deck to say farewell to various ports of call, a lovely babuschka keyring and a beautiful book on the Hermitage, left in our stateroom in advance of our return to ship after the shore trip to the Hermitage. Very early on, the greeting “Welcome home” began to have real meaning as we piled out of our coach and sought the comfort of ‘our ship’. Iain Hirschfield
Food for thought I recently travelled with Viking on a cruise from Odessa to Kiev. May I express the thanks of both my wife and myself. The cruise was superb and the staff wonderful. Special mention should be made of your chef; his food was of a quality far in excess of our expectations. Mike and Jenny Cherry
S TA R L E T T E R
We’ve just completed our fourth river cruise in three years, a wonderful trip down the Mekong. Vietnam and Cambodia are countries that have to be explored – what better way to do this than with Viking. Everything was exceptional. We have never been disappointed with the high level of service and the excellent food that we enjoyed, including deep fried tarantulas! The majority of the crew were Cambodian and the warmth and never-ending smiles contributed greatly to what was a memorable holiday. Six out of a total of 56 were first timers with Viking. They told us they would definitely book again. We are so looking forward to our two Viking ocean cruises in 2019 – we also feel very much part of the Viking family. John and Julie Ball
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
The dream team
You could win...
...a £50 M&S gift voucher if your letter is chosen as our star letter. Email us at uk-marketing@ vikingrivercruises.com
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LETTERS
Y O U R P H O T O S #MyVikingStory Follow us on Instagram @VikingCruises for more inspirational images
Cruise highlights Clockwise from top left: 1. “I just want more – more of your days, more of your nights, more of your dark, more of your light” magic! 1000petallotus 2. I’ve decided I need to start planning another vacation. I miss Europe! Where shall we go next? jennamdixon 3. Your Happy Place is waiting. ferraroworldtravel 4. Picture perfect Porto danigod 5. So light and bright! This is the Explorers’ Lounge on the lovely Viking Sea. sandinmysuitcase 6. Lunch with sharks cosmopolitini 7. Awesome views of Shanghai at night, from the out-of-this universe skyline to the view from the infinity pool which looks neverending! gretchenista 8. The optional excursion to the medieval town of Pérouges was magical! Highly recommend. M Martinson 9. It’s Christmas time aboard the Viking Alruna! Sarahjfloyd
Hit List
YOUR MESSAGES Just had our sixth river cruise. These things just get better and better! Gareth Phillips Loved our cruise to the Caribbean. It was my first ever cruise and beyond anything I imagined. Well done! Kathleen Dobson
We have just returned from the Danube and could not be happier. We were treated like a king and queen! David Morgan was our programme director and did an incredible job. And the chef on Viking Jarl gave us a Thanksgiving feast that was amazing! David Love
Nuremberg was the first Christmas market we visited on our Danube cruise in 2016. We have since done the Rhine at Christmas and it would be very difficult to choose the best! Contrary to popular belief, the markets are all so different with lots of local flavour. The best glühwein is in Nuremberg, the best bratwurst in Passau, the best handcrafted
gifts in Budapest. However, the best food, comfort and ambience is when you get back on your Viking ship! Chris Purnell The best holiday we ever had was your river cruise in Russia. Our every need was met and the variety of trips each day was outstanding, not to mention the fabulous food. Hoping to go with you to Budapest. Peggyjoan Sutton Lea We have been on seven cruises with Viking and have never been disappointed. Whether France, Portugal or middle Europe, there is always something wonderful to see. Tony Green
After a great trip a few years ago, we have just booked another Douro cruise to mark our wedding anniversary in October. This time we will have four days in Lisbon before embarking. Elizabeth Wilde
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Cuban Cool Travel writer John Wilmott re-lives the highlights of his trip to Cuba, packed with exciting culture, retro vibes and fascinating history
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T R AV E L
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puttering mopeds and rasping open trucks. Rickety horse-drawn carts and home-made bicycletaxis. Coconut-shaped tuk-tuks and artwork-on-wheels classic cars. And, more conventionally, buses and trains. By the time I left the city of Santiago de Cuba, the last stop of my Cultural Cuba cruise with Viking, I had almost lost count of the curious variety of ‘vehicles’ the local people use as public transport. More powerfully, this menagerie of machinery demonstrated the spirit and ingenuity of the Cubans. Isolated from much of the world for so many decades, they have become masters of make-do-andmend; not just through a lack of money, but because materials have simply not been available. That’s why so much of this
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This page: Coco-taxis in Malecon street, Havana. Opposite: John Wimott’s holiday photos capture the essense of Cuba and Miami, from dazzling showgirls to reto cars and classic architecture
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huge Caribbean island’s transport cars were imported to Cuba in relative privilege of air-conditioned is not just creakingly old but the 1950s when the island was a coaches with toilets and TVs on all has been repaired and recycled playground for wealthy Americans. our excursions. countless times. After the revolution in 1959, many And don’t get the impression With most Cubans getting by on were abandoned and adopted by that this is a downtrodden nation very limited finances, a compelling local people. that feels sorry for itself. You’ll cooperative has developed to help Ever since the trade embargo find as many wide smiles here as people get about. Moped owners began soon after, it has been anywhere in the Caribbean, from a give neighbours a lift for a few very difficult to obtain parts. welcoming and enterprising people. pesos. Some of those horse carts The inventiveness of the Cubans My cruise had begun against the even operate on set routes. Those is never better illustrated than backdrop of Lego-like skyscrapers lucky enough to have a car of in the way these classics have been that form Miami’s skyline, drifting their own share their fortune with maintained against all the odds, into a leisurely day and a half sail hopeful hitchhikers. even though most now rely on down and round to Cienfuegos. As for those classic cars, they revived diesel engines from On the day at sea, I interspersed are the moving dips in Viking Star’s Every other vehicle is a blobby, curvaceous or main pool, its roof emblems of Cuba. I had open to the blue sky, finned behemoth from 1950s’ America the notion that with lectures on Cuban there were a history and those cars. few dozen of these snarling around donor cars, trucks or even boats. From the sun deck, I surveyed the the capital, Havana, for the benefit It was in one of the cherished profile of lonely green mountains of of tourists’ cameras, yet there examples – a bright red, open-top, Cuba on the horizon, exchanging are thousands of them. I reckon 1955 Chevrolet Bel Air with shiny expectations of what the next day every other vehicle is a blobby, white seats – that I was driven might bring with my shipmates. curvaceous or finned behemoth to dinner during my overnight Cienfuegos is set on a giant, from 1950s’ America. trip to Havana from Viking Star’s lagoon-like bay and the only In colours as varied as a pick mooring at the south-coast city entrance is via a narrow, zig-zag ’n’ mix sweet counter, and in of Cienfuegos. channel. The captain opened up conditions from rusty to polished Of course, not everything in the foredeck so as many guests as prime, they are the nation’s second Cuba is way past its sell-by date. possible could follow our progress taxi service, a back-up to the stateTourism is important here, so my in the warm sea breeze, the ship owned modern yellow cabs. The fellow Viking guests and I had the taking a precise route between
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T R AV E L
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from light to dark but from sleepy to buzzy. Salsa music, as much a hallmark of Cuba as the cars, floated out of cafés and bars, luring locals and visitors to a long, wide set of steps that clearly acts as the social hub of this charming town. Early the next morning, our new tour guide, Vladimir, was filling our heads with facts and figures as we travelled cross-country to Havana. “I’m not Putin, I’m not even Russian!” he joked, explaining that many of his generation had been given Russian names due to the
fulfilling of my travels. Our little group gazed across a bay at the Havana panorama – a city that celebrates its 500th anniversary this year – from a huge 18th-century castle, bizarrely boasting its own cigar and rum shop. Shortly after, Vlad pointed his red Viking ‘lollipop’ at various colonial buildings and one of Hemingway’s watering holes as we strolled through the various squares in the historic centre. Arriving at a restaurant for lunch, Vlad looked concerned as
Salsa music, as much a hallmark of Cuba as the cars, floated out of cafés and bars past links with that country. Like all the guides on our cruise, even though he was working for a staterun organisation, Vlad was open and honest, inviting any questions. We asked him about Cuba’s education and health services, its wildlife, the economy and, yes, even politics and were rewarded with a mine of information, much of which has not even reached Google. The next 24 hours were tiring but rank among the most
I said I wouldn’t be joining the group to eat. “I’d rather fill my memories than my stomach,” I said as I took off to rediscover the boulevard filled with art stalls and the haughty El Capitolio former government headquarters I had seen earlier from the coach window. After a quick shower in the hotel arranged by Viking, my group was collected by a fleet of honking, gleaming American sedans that took us – via a traditional dinner
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/AWL IMAGES
giant shore markings. Before long, I was viewing fields of sugar cane, rice and mango from a coach window, with the tobacco that is rolled to make the cherished cigars grown further up in the hills. I had chosen Trinidad – a UNESCO World Heritage Site town between the mountains and the sea – for my first excursion largely because of a photo I had seen in a magazine. It featured yet another old car, set against a neat row of pastel-painted buildings. Soon I was staring along that same street, the shiny blue car of the magazine picture replaced by a same-era white vehicle that had seen better days. As we strolled through the lanes, one guest pronounced how rough the cobbles were. “Don’t blame us!” laughed our guide. “These stones are from the bed of the Mississippi river. They were brought over as ballast on the ships collecting our sugar,” he proclaimed. Skirting the main square, lined by handsome mansions and a neoclassical church, we gathered in an antique-filled restaurant for an early dinner. When we emerged, the atmosphere had changed. Not just VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | SPR ING 2019
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Clockwise, from left: The sun sets over Havana; the impressive architecture dominates the capital’s skyline
of chicken, rice and black peas – to Tropicana. To be honest I’m not the biggest fan of stage shows but this rum-fuelled, totally overthe-top cabaret was a visual and aural revelation. The open-air theatre, with multi-level stages, celebrates its 80th birthday this year and I could appreciate why it still attracts the crowds. The costumes! The music! The acrobatics! Iridescent images were still swirling in my mind as I drifted off to sleep that night. Back on board, to keep the Latino spirit in my soul, I dined on the Aquavit Terrace where the chefs had set up a Cuban live-cooking station. There’s fine-dining galore on Viking Star but nothing could satisfy me more that night than pork kebabs consumed under a star-struck Caribbean sky. Santiago was our other significant destination before sailing back to Miami. Its location, more than 500 miles east of Havana, shows just how large is Cuba. A city of a million people, its broad plazas (every Cuban city has a Revolution Square) contrasted with the rough-andready streets where women gossiped
while hanging laundry and kids mischievously chased balls. I was tempted by Viking’s trip to a coffee plantation in the hills, but instead opted for a tour of the city’s art, concentrating on the gallery workshops in a leafy, well-to-do part of Santiago. This may be a country run by a singular communist party, but creativity is far from stifled. Having seen the eye-opening artworks, perhaps isolation has encouraged imaginations to wander. Sailing back to Miami, I sought respite from the hot sun in The Spa. Laying on the rack in the hydrotherapy pool, I let the bubbles soothe away the remains of any fatigue from the previous days’ enlightening activities. Bubbles? Cuba does indeed still exist in its own little world, despite an axiomatic shift towards loosening its boundaries. It’s a world that’s colourful, captivating and perplexing – and one in which you really feel part of a history that is still unravelling. An eight-day Cultural Cuba cruise from Miami starts at £2,690pp vikingcruises.co.uk
ESSENTIAL INFO VISAS: You’ll need a visa to visit Cuba, but Viking makes this very easy to obtain through its governmentapproved agency partners. MONEY: The Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC – pronounced ‘kook’) is the currency tourists use. Exchange booths at cruise terminals will change pounds, euros or dollars. Some restaurants and shops will accept dollars, but ask first. Many do not take credit cards. LANGUAGE: Spanish is the official language but many Cubans speak a little English. SHOPPING: High-quality cigars and rum are sold in special shops. Tablecloths, hats and seashell necklaces are offered by vendors at tourist sites. Markets sell wooden and pottery gifts, T-shirts and art. TIPPING: Local people appreciate small gratuities. Expect to pay a tip if you ask to take someone’s photograph or if you’ve listened to a live musician. Toilet attendants should be tipped too. FOOD: Cuban food tends to be simple but tasty. Chicken, pork and fish are staples, usually served with rice, black beans and perhaps plantain chips.
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ITINERARY
Magical
DANUBE
Enjoy the highlights of Budapest, Bratislava, Vienna and Passau from your Viking ship Clockwise, from above: Budapest, Hungary’s vibrant capital, is the starting point for this cruise; beautiful skies over historical buildings in Linz, Austria
DAYS 1 & 2 / BUDAPEST, HUNGARY Hungary’s enchanting capital straddles the banks of the Danube, with the majestic Chain Bridge uniting both sides. A vibrant cultural scene and elegant Art Nouveau architecture all converge here.
DAY 3 / BRATISLAVA, SLOVAKIA The capital of Slovakia, Bratislava is filled with lovingly restored baroque city palaces and is dominated by an enormous castle 300 feet above the Danube.
DAY 4 / VIENNA, AUSTRIA
capital of Upper Austria. Take a day trip to Český Krumlov in the Czech Republic.
DAY 7 & 8 / PASSAU, GERMANY Founded by the Celts more than 2,000 years ago, Passau is one of Bavaria’s oldest cities. Based at the confluence of the Inn, Ilz and Danube Rivers, enchanting Passau is home to elegant and colourful buildings and graceful arcades. The 8-day Danube Waltz cruise from Budapest to Passau, or in reverse, starts from £1,195pp
Packed with green parks, upscale shops, theatres and gracious boulevards, the capital city of Austria boasts a fascinating history and a natural elegance.
PHOTOS: © iSTOCK
DAY 5 / KREMS, AUSTRIA The crown jewel of the Wachau Valley is the Benedictine Abbey of Göttweig, a 900-year-old working monastery.
DAY 6 / LINZ, AUSTRIA Originally known as Lentia in its days as a 1st-century Roman castle-settlement, Linz is today’s provincial SPR ING 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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American T
dreams Travel writer Dave Monk retraces the British invasion of the East coast and enjoys a warmer welcome than his former countrymen
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he British are coming! That’s the famous cry once attributed to silversmith Paul Revere, who warned his fellow Americans of the red coats’ approach in 1775. But this time the British – or, at least, my wife Mandy and I – were arriving in Boston in peace, and on board the elegant Viking Sea rather than a warship. Our mission wasn’t to quell rebellious colonists but to trace the history of Revere, who made a legendary midnight ride into the countryside to alert the local militia that the enemy forces were on the way. Walking the Freedom Trail, we saw Revere’s house and the Old North Church where he ordered two lanterns to be lit as a warning sign that the British were inbound. We visited his grave at the Granary Burying Ground. Other patriots, such as John Hancock and Samuel Adams, are interred there, as well as victims of the Boston Massacre in 1770 when British troops killed five people. And, of course, you can’t miss the site of the Boston Tea Party, where campaigners dumped 342 chests of tea into the harbour in a protest against “taxation without representation”.
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T R AV E L New York, Boston and Montreal, was the freedom to go off exploring on our own as well as joining the organised excursions, many of which are included in the fare. Our voyage began in the Big Apple, walking the streets made so familiar by many US television shows, craning our necks up at the lights of Times Square, strolling in Central Park and taking a boat trip to see shoreline highlights, such as the Statue of Liberty. We got to see Lady Liberty again later as Viking Sea left its moorings and set off on its 13-day voyage north-east along the Massachusetts coastline to Nova Scotia in Canada and down the St. Lawrence river to Quebec and Montreal. Mandy and I stood on the bow deck, wind ruffling our hair, as our ship passed under the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge and out to sea. Being on board Viking Sea again felt like coming home. Having been on one of her first cruises, from Venice to Barcelona in 2016, everything seemed familiar – the little clutches of chairs, the reindeer pelts on the backs of sofas and the comfortable Explorers’ Lounge with its artificial flames. We spent one of
This page: The Boston financial district skyline viewed from Fan Pier
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY
Taking advantage of the overnight stay in port onboard Viking Sea during our Eastern Seaboard Explorer voyage, Mandy and I also took a train 18 miles out to Concord (pronounced “Conquered”), the scene of “the shot heard round the world’ when the first British soldiers were killed at the start of the American Revolution. As well as one of Revere’s lanterns, the Concord Museum displays muskets, swords, cannon balls and other memorabilia of the war. There are also much more peaceful exhibits, such as the desk of writer Henry D. Thoreau and the study of author Ralph Waldo Emerson. But our main reason to visit the town was to see Orchard House, the home of Little Women writer Louisa May Alcott, which has been wonderfully preserved as she lived there, down to her sewing kit with her name embroidered on it. Walking around the house, we learnt how fact and fiction crossed over in Alcott’s life, with her and her sisters remarkably similar to the characters in her best-known book. The joy of our itinerary, with two-day dockings in
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the first nights on board by the main pool watching Breakfast At Tiffany’s on the big movie screen, while eating freshly made popcorn. It was the first time I’d seen the film – and the first time I’d ever watched a movie under the stars on a cruise ship – so a memorable experience on both counts. Our first experience with Viking was in 2013 on the Rhine, retracing a cycle ride I did at the age of 17. Since then, we’ve enjoyed other voyages on the Danube and Mekong, so we were thrilled when Viking launched its first ocean ships while continuing to keep the best features of river cruises and adding so much more. As regular Viking cruisers know, the ships are just the right size – not too big and not too small. The atmosphere is refined, relaxed and informal. While not bumping into the same people all the time, we also didn’t feel crowded at any point on our cruise. Bigger ships towered above us at the Manhattan cruise port but we were happy to be on our nine-deck home. On our route to Boston, we passed along the Cape Cod Canal, making our 930-guest ship seem more like a river boat as we watched the scenery glide by, such is the versatility of these vessels. Our first stop in Canada was at Halifax, where we took a tall ship tour of the harbour and a hop-on, hopoff bus round the town, including the graveyard where many of the Titanic victims are buried. What’s less known is that Halifax was also the scene of a huge blast that killed more than 2,000 people in 1917 when a Norwegian vessel collided with a French cargo ship laden with high explosives. It was a sobering thought as our tall ship passed near the scene before returning to shore. Reboarding Viking Sea, we sailed
to our next port of Gaspé, a city with a population of just over 15,000, where we saw the autumn colours at their best – the turning leaves put on a wonderful show for us. On a visit to Forillon National Park, we stopped to admire swathes of trees coated in bronze, yellows and reds. Our school bus transport also stopped at the Hyman House and Store, a historic trading post from where fishermen sailed to the Channel Islands. A day cruising the St. Lawrence River brought us to Saguenay, but bad weather gave us the excuse to enjoy another day on the ship, exploring new nooks and corners while many other guests were ashore. I spent some hours in The Spa, having a deep-tissue massage
Clockwise, from above: Orchard House, home to author Louisa May Alcott; the hustle and bustle of the Big Apple; the boardwalk at Halifax, Nova Scotia
PHOTOS: © ALAMY
The home of writer Louisa May Alcott has been wonderfully preserved as she lived there, down to her sewing kit with her name embroidered on it
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T R AV E L
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T R AV E L and trying out the snow grotto, bucket splash, indoor pool and sauna. Thankfully, the rain stayed off for a while as we sailed the next day into Quebec, which quickly became one of my favourite cities. A short walk from the port took us to the old town and funicular railway for a spectacular view. Later we joined a well-informed and jovial guide for a tour, breaking off at one point to eat a traditional dish of poutine and drink a Baileys and hot chocolate to fortify ourselves against the chill outside. I have long wanted to visit Quebec. It’s funny how you conjure up images of places you haven’t seen purely on what other people tell you. This was one of those ports that exceeded even those expectations with its French colonial beauty. Having said au revoir, our final stop was Montreal and a visit to the Notre-Dame Basilica in the old town. Nearby are two statues – an Englishman and a French woman, both holding dogs. Their snooty noses are turned away from each other, while their pets are obviously keen to get acquainted. Later, a coach tour took us to Mont Royal, from where the city gets its name. We stopped to take in the view and reflect on our epic trip, which had taken us from the bustle of Manhattan to remote settlements on the Canadian coast and into the heart of Frenchspeaking cities. History – and our colonial pasts as British people – followed us everywhere. To see Montreal, Boston and New York in the autumn on one cruise was a real treat. And, of course, we loved the food on Viking Sea, from the delicious burgers at the pool grill to the glorious buffets in the World Café, where we ate most evenings, and the à la carte delights of The Restaurant. As a couple, we could eat alone wherever we wanted, meeting new friends around the ship but retaining our own company at meal times. This was especially true when we celebrated our anniversary at sea at Italian restaurant Manfredi’s with a romantic table for two.
From right: Notre-Dame Basilica, Montreal; Bonsecours market, Old Montreal
We sailed into Quebec, which quickly became one of my favourite cities. A short walk from the port took us to the old town and funicular railway for a spectacular view
An 13-day Eastern Seaboard Explorer cruise from Montreal to New York City, or the reverse, starts at £5,190pp vikingcruises.co.uk Dave Monk writes for World of Cruising, the Daily Telegraph, Daily Mirror and Metro online, as well as his own awardwinning blog, shipmonk.co.uk. You can also follow him as @shipmonk on Instagram and Twitter.
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PHOTOS: © ALAMY
During our cruise, a range of expert lecturers brought our destination ports to life, even before we arrived. But it was always a delight to return on board and be served a coffee or drink in The Living Room while listening to classical music being played in The Atrium. With so much included in the fare, such as drinks with meals, we weren’t left with a huge onboard bill either. Even after arriving in Montreal, our North American adventure wasn’t over and we flew back to New York for a few more days before heading home. The British were leaving. And this time having been given a very warm welcome during an unforgettable Viking cruise.
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READY TO EXPLORE ORGANISER BAG, £10, NATIONAL TRUST
This essential bag has three zipped compartments, a phone pocket and an adjustable shoulder strap.
PLUG IN EARPHONES, £109.95, ARGOS
BeatsX Earphones by Dr. Dre connect to your phone or tablet via Bluetooth so there are no trailing wires. Perfect for onboard downtime.
WEEKENDER BAG, £265, ANNABEL JAMES
Packing
STAY CLEAN HAND SPRAY, £6.50, NEAL’S YARD
Keep hands fresh while using tourist transport with Organic Defence Hand Spray.
ESSENTIALS Cruise writer Dave Monk shares his tips for a well-equipped trip to New York and Canada
PACK IT UP CARRY-ON CASE, £159, SAMSONITE
The Samsonite Spark SNG Spinner has four wheels and a zipped top pocket.
SNAP HAPPY CAMERA, £779.99, CANON
The Canon PowerShot G3X has a 25-times zoom and a WiFi connection to your mobile so you can easily upload shots online.
WISE WORDS LITTLE WOMEN, £6.99, WATERSTONES
IT’S A WRAP RACING GREEN JACKET, £75, DEBENHAMS
This mid-length hooded jacket is waterproof and breathable so you can stay dry on rainy days without overheating.
BEST FOOT FORWARD WATERPROOF SHOES, £100, MERRELL
These Merrell Outmost Ventilator GORE-TEX shoes can handle the rocks of the Canadian coastline while staying breathable in the city.
The famous book by Louisa May Alcott – get into the mood before you fly and buy this Puffin Classics copy.
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Travel trends The latest ideas influencing how and where we will be travelling this year
UNDER-THE-RADAR DESTINATIONS
Experiential travel has facilitated exploration and now inquisitive tourists are looking to lessertravelled destinations. These three countries are on the up:
Sardinia: Caribbean-style beaches, wholesome food, and a beautifully rugged and mountainous interior. Greenland: Jade green lakes, a stunning fjord-lined coast and the promise of summer’s midnight sun and winter’s Northern Lights. Nicaragua: Atmospheric
colonial towns, twin volcanoes and dense jungle packed with wildlife. 24
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WORKING WORLDS
Discovering the day-to-day lives of people in the destinations you visit is a great way to get a different perspective, and understand a place in more depth. More and more travellers are opting to enhance their travel experiences by getting to know local people, and experiencing the way they make a living. Viking offers guests the chance to witness the working world in many of it’s destinations. In Croatia you could join a local oyster fisherman to bring in the day’s catch. Or in Portugal visit a bakery where bread has been made the same way every day for centuries. It is these unique experiences that really make for unforgettable memories and the reason why more travellers are seeking them out.
PHOTOS: © iSTOCK/ALAMY
RESPONSIBLE TOURISM EXTENDS TO ANIMAL WELFARE
Tourists are thinking much more about how and where to travel in a way that is beneficial to the environment and local communities. This year, the spotlight has been firmly placed on animal welfare in particular. Travellers are being encouraged to boycott certain practices that we might partake in on holiday, including elephant rides, tiger selfies and dolphin shows, as they have been associated with the mistreatment of animals. Happily, seeing animals in the wild is one of the best ways to observe them in their natural environment.
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LOCAL FOOD
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CITY CYCLE SCHEMES
There’s no better way to get to grips with a new city than by cycling around it! The world’s first bikesharing scheme, the Velib in Paris, is now more than a decade old, and following its success, many other cities around the world have followed suit with their own versions. China is leading the way with low-cost options enticing millions of users to take a quick trip, whilst Madrid, Dublin, Oslo and Brussels also offer great value. Many cities in the US offer rental bikes now, as does London.
PHOTOS: © iSTOCK
A big trend in travel at the moment is discovering a destination through its food. Visiting local markets and trying regional specialities is one of the best ways to get a true taste for the local culture. Stepping outside your comfort zone and trying foods you wouldn’t usually go for can be both fun and enriching, and you may just discover some new favourites to re-create at home. Viking offers guests the chance to visit a local market, in the company of a chef. Purchases are then brought back to the onboard cooking school where guests are shown how to create a wonderful local meal, which can then be enjoyed afterwards!
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SPECIAL SPOTS FOR 2019 1. BERLIN, GERMANY There’s never been a better time to visit the vibrant German capital, as events get underway to mark the 100th anniversary of the foundation of Bauhaus, as well as the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. With exhibitions, films, performances and special tours highlighting the influential architectural movement and this worldchanging political event, Berlin is will be honouring both this year. Discover Berlin on our 10-day Elegant Elbe trip
2. HELSINKI, FINLAND As the country takes on the presidency of the Council of the EU, 2019 is a big year for Finland. Its capital is being praised as the European Capital of Smart Tourism and it is indeed functional and clever in its approach to authentic tourism experiences. The new Helsinki Central Library, Oodi, opened in December 2018, in a striking new building made of wood, glass and steel. Stop off in Helsinki during a 15-day Viking Homelands cruise
3. DURBAN, SOUTH AFRICA With the launch of British Airways’ new direct flight, South Africa’s third largest city, Durban, will be even easier to
explore this year. Boasting exceptional beaches and a harbour packed with restaurants and bars, as well as a recent revamp thanks to the city being the host of the 2010 Football World Cup, Durban is a destination in its own right, as well as providing a gateway to the Kwa-Zulu Natal province and beyond. Book a pre-cruise extension to the new Along Africa’s Western Shores trip to enjoy extra time in Durban
4. BRIDGETOWN, BARBADOS No-one ever needs an excuse to visit the brilliant island of Barbados, but if you need a push the 10th anniversary of the Barbados Food and Rum Festival falls in 2019 so there will be an even bigger celebration than usual with local culinary talent at the forefront of the exciting line-up. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Bridgetown boasts the Commonwealth’s third oldest Parliament, as well as a vibrant cultural scene that will enrich your visit. The West Indies Explorer cruise calls into Bridgetown as part of an 11-day round trip
5. TORONTO, CANADA Toronto’s diverse art scene has something to entice any art lover. As a new generation of curators sets out to re-define the city’s cultural landscape,
the epic 90-day Toronto Biennial of Art, launching in September, is not to be missed. Meanwhile, the Museum of Contemporary Art has recently moved into a former industrial space where it continues to push boundaries and showcase innovative international art. Visit Toronto before joining the Eastern Seaboard Explorer cruise, which departs from Montreal
6. TOKYO, JAPAN Tokyo will play host to the Rugby World Cup this autumn and the city is already gearing up to host an influx of visitors. With state-of-the-art bullet trains and an impressive infrastructure, the city successfully manages to mix the ultra-modern with its traditional culture. In addition to this, the city is proud to be home to the most Michelin-starred restaurants. Toyko is the grand finale of a 15-day Far Eastern Horizons cruise
7. BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA Argentina is one of the hottest destinations for 2019, but if you need further persuasion, the city welcomes the World Tango Championships in August this year. Keep dancing! Viking’s 18-day South America and the Chilean Fjords cruise starts with two days in Buenos Aires
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Spectacular Spring Award-winning garden designer, Paul Hervey-Brookes, eagerly anticipates the dawning of a new season
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Top to bottom: RHS Wisley’s glass house is surrounded by colourful plants; choose bud bulbs to benefit from quick and colourful garden additions; it’s the perfect time to plant radishes
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his time of year sees the winter give way to the first hints of spring and then a riot of colour, which lifts the spirit after long, lean months. Not that winter isn’t beautiful, but spring has a special quality and many cultures revel in celebrating this awakening. In my garden I shall be eagerly anticipating bluebells and cyclamen – with their soft blue and pink flowers they are like a delicate sprinkling of confetti on the ground. Although poisonous if ingested, the bluebell has a long history in folklore; perhaps the most romantic and full of springtime hope is the story
that if you can turn a bluebell flower inside out without tearing it, you will win the heart of an unrequited love. This is the same of cyclamen whose popularity was at its height in France in the 17th century due to Louis XIV insisting on decorating the halls of Versailles with great bunches of the delicate flowers. Throughout the 18th century, the plant was often given to children and has become a symbol of maternal love in most of Europe. This love and passion is perhaps one of the joys of spring, a season where all possibilities are laid open before us. Unfurling
flowers and intoxicating perfumes make days outside in gardens and the countryside feel special and full of joy. If you haven’t been proactive and planted lots of spring bulbs in the borders in autumn and winter, don’t worry! Garden centres and nurseries will have done all the hard work and grown bulbs in pots, which allows you to cheat and plant in bud bulbs to give yourself a carpet of colour, especially useful if you have recently moved house or just need a splash of Easter colour in containers on the terrace. If you are out and about at flea markets or simply having a weekend away in a town like Hay-onWye, there are lots of ideal shops to rummage
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GARDENING
in and find unusual containers to plant. Smaller containers, such as old enamel bowls or even colanders, make great homes for succulents and houseleeks.
POWERFUL PLANTS
Succulents are great plants for summer, but are not winterhardy, whereas houseleeks can be left outside, virtually without worry, all year round. Houseleeks also require nearly no care; being drought-tolerant they are ideal for travelling gardeners. Our love of houseleek Sempervivum goes back a long way. In ancient times, houseleeks were credited with the power to ward off witches, and when planted upon a home’s roof they brought prosperity and safety to those who dwelled within. The Roman Emperor Charlemagne commanded his subjects to plant houseleeks on their roofs to prevent lightning strikes, a practice that probably stemmed from the ancients’ belief that houseleeks were earthly manifestations of Jupiter and Thor, the Roman and Norse gods of thunder. Indeed, regional labels for houseleeks still include Jupiter’s beard, Thor’s beard, and Donnersbart (thunderbeard).
SOWING SEEDS
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK; ALAMY; DAVID BROADBENT
If you are at home over the next few months, is it a busy season in the garden. Sowing spring leaves and peas will bring rewards in six weeks with fresh crops, and radish sown in March will be ready to harvest from early April, the traditional time to make French radish tarts. Sowing late season annuals
now directly into warm ground will reward you with richly coloured blooms in August. Zinnia and Rudbeckia are particularly tough and if sown direct can be left in summer without too much trouble. Herbaceous perennials can be lifted and divided during March and April and used to plug any glaring gaps or swapped with friends. It is also a good time of year to prune back shrubs; the risk of frost getting into unhealed wounds will have passed so be brave and give woody plants a good haircut – they will reward you with vigorous growth and fresh new foliage. Potted perennials, such as agapanthus (African Lily), should be lifted and re-potted with fresh soil. Don’t be tempted to transfer into a larger pot as a little restriction prompts good flowering later. If you are travelling through the waterways of France or Germany this spring, you will see many wild flowers. One of my favourite late spring blooms is the linden, Tilia, a well-known landscape tree found on many country estates throughout the UK. It originates from Spain, but can be seen all across Europe. Its delicate starry flowers can be picked and used either dry or fresh as a tea. Historically, linden tea was normally harvested from the species Tilia cordata and Tilia platyphyllos, and it has been used to treat a variety of ailments including high blood pressure, migraines, digestive complaints, colds and anxiety, but for me it is a delicate taste of spring which captivates my imagination.
OUT
& ABOUT
There are plenty of English gardens which can transport you to faraway climes. Whether you chance upon a new gem or rediscover an old favourite, the beauty of gardens is that you’ll find a different version each time you visit depending on the season. If you fancy a weekend away and want to visit some amazing gardens inspired by travel and fantasy, these are my top choices:
PAINSWICK ROCOCO GARDEN, GLOUCESTERSHIRE This garden is the sole surviving example from the Rococo period and, somewhat by chance, also has the largest naturalised plantings of thousands of snowdrops so well worth a visit on a sunny day in early spring. rococogarden.org.uk
RHS WISLEY, SURREY The flagship garden of the Royal Horticultural Society offers winter walks, vast herbaceous borders and packed glass houses, to mention just a few elements. A lovely café and many seasonal events make it a great destination for a day trip. rhs.org.uk
THORP PERROW, YORKSHIRE The lovely daffodil trail winds its way through a stunning array of trees in the arboretum, and there are many exciting varieties, colours and combinations of this spring gem on display. thorpperrow.com
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Beaded earrings (£10, Accessorize) Sun hat (£45, Hobbs)
Tote bag (£70, Amara)
For women...
Embrace the trend for colour this season with all things bright and beautiful! From accessories to colour block separates, there is something for everyone.
Yellow blouse (£99, Hobbs)
Colour
Tortoiseshell sunglasses (£35, notanotherbill.com)
Wicker bag (£49, Monsoon)
pop
Update your wardrobe and put a spring in your step by adding a splash of colour to your neutrals Yellow tea dress (£26, Next)
Ruffle dress (£299, Hobbs) Cherry cardigan (£65, Cath Kidston)
Saddle bag (£16, Tu at Sainsbury’s)
Cashmere cardigan and chinos (both from Pure Collection)
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Woven flats (£30, Accessorize)
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FA S H I O N Sheepskin coat (£1,275, Celtic & Co.)
and for men...
Add a sporty jacket for a smart but practical look this spring.
Puffa jacket (£99.95, Barbour) Rollneck jumper (£18, Next)
Gingham shirt (£57, Crew Clothing)
Blazer, skirt and trainers (all from Next)
Pleated skirt (£59, Debenhams)
Slim trousers (£30, Burton)
Chukka boots (£110, Crew Clothing)
Denim jacket (£55, Monsoon) Slim trousers (£35, Next)
Chino shorts (£39.95, White Stuff) Denim trainers (£45, White Stuff)
Silk earrings (£7, Accessorize)
Leather loafers (£75, Dune)
Circular bag (£29, Accessorize)
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Tartan shirt (£59.95, Barbour)
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Amazing Asia, with Viking On our extraordinary Southeast Asia & Hong Kong cruise, explore four fascinating countries on one sweeping journey. From bustling Bangkok, visit Sihanoukville in Cambodia, with its enchanting fishing villages. Ho Chi Minh City is a heady mix of French and Vietnamese cultures, and the city of Da Nang offers sandy beaches and resort living. In Ha Long Bay, cruise the spectacular waters on a traditional junk, and in Hong Kong, wander the eclectic streets. Seventeen days, one amazing journey.
2020 Southeast Asia & Hong Kong ocean cruise from ÂŁ5,790pp Call now on 020 8780 8575 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices and availability are correct at time of going to print but are subject to change. From price is based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom on Southeast Asia & Hong Kong departing on selected dates in 2020. Single supplements 100%. Please note a visa may be required and is at the passengers own expense. Prices valid until 31 March 2019. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.
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ITINERARY
Discover
ASIA
Immerse yourself in the tapestry of four Southeast Asian countries on one memorable journey through Indochina Above: Ha Long Bay in Vietnam is made up of over 2,000 limestone islands of various heights, creating mystical scenery
DAY 1 / FLY FROM THE UK TO BANGKOK DAYS 2 & 3 / BANGKOK, THAILAND Witness the cultural splendour of Old Siam, beautifully set on the Chao Phraya River, as you experience one of the regions’s most vibrant and cosmopolitan cities. From temples to street markets, immerse yourself in this kaleidoscopic metropolis.
DAY 4 & 5 / SIHANOUKVILLE, CAMBODIA This Cambodian coastal town offers stunning beaches with turquoise waters. Visit the colourful murals and Buddha sculptures at Wat Krom, ride on a tuk-tuk in town, explore local markets and a nearby fishing village.
DAY 6 / SCENIC CRUISING: GULF OF THAILAND Unwind on your private veranda while watching for marine life, indulge in some reading as the ocean views pass you by, or meet new friends in The Wintergarden.
DAYS 7, 8 & 9 / HO CHI MINH CITY, VIETNAM
PHOTOS: © AWL IMAGES
Formerly known as Saigon, this city mixes French and Vietnamese cultures, where croissants are served alongside pho, the country’s famous noodle soup. Enjoy the city’s museums, as well as floating markets in the Mekong Delta.
DAY 10 / SCENIC CRUISING: SOUTH CHINA SEA Today you will sail into the South China Sea, waters that were navigated for thousands of years by dynastic emperors and the barbarians that opposed them.
DAY 11 / DA NANG (CHAN MAY), VIETNAM Transformed into a US base during the Vietnam War, today this former sleepy backwater is a bustling cultural centre combining colonial architecture and ornate temples with a countryside of paddy fields and the nearby legendary China Beach, where US soldiers came for relaxation during the war.
DAYS 12 & 13 / HA LONG BAY, VIETNAM Home to 2,000 limestone islands of astonishing heights, take a scenic cruise on an authentic junk through one of the world’s most magnificent landscapes. There’s also the opportunity for a day excursion to Hanoi.
DAY 14 / SCENIC CRUISING Enjoy spectacular Asian scenery and take full advantage of on-board facilities, including Nordic-style treatments in The Spa, or relax by the pool with a cocktail in hand as you journey towards China.
DAY 15 & 16 / HONG KONG, CHINA Your last stop is Hong Kong, where glittering skyscrapers dazzle among the peaks, where East and West sensibilities meet, and where ancient and modern lifestyles interweave to create a fascinating juxtaposition.
DAY 17 / FLY BACK TO THE UK Catch a flight home from Hong Kong back to the UK. The 17-day Southeast Asia & Hong Kong itinerary from Bangkok to Hong Kong starts from £5,790pp SPR ING 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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C U LT U R E
Picture perfect Photographer Chris Caldicott shares his advice on taking great photographs while on your travels
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ne of the great joys of travel is capturing images of your adventures as photographs that become the permanent record of a journey and a way of sharing the experience with others. As Expedition Photographer-in-Residence to the Royal Geographical Society I was privileged to travel to some very remote places to photograph the vanishing lifestyles of indigenous people around the world. These days I spend most of my time travelling as a freelance photo journalist and travel writer visiting more accessible destinations, yet 34
still get as much satisfaction from capturing a perfect image of my travels as I did when I first started. In this piece I will give some very simple and user-friendly advice on how to be a little more creative with your camera and help you capture evocative images as a memory and record of your travels. I will illustrate all the points covered using a selection of images I took on my recent Southeast Asia & Hong Kong cruise on board Viking Orion. I boarded Viking Orion at the port of Laem Chabang near Bangkok for a section of its maiden voyage through Asia. It
was a magnificent journey with exciting photo opportunities both at sea and on our interesting shore excursions in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, China and Hong Kong. On my first morning at sea I woke before dawn, full of energy and anticipation for the journey ahead, and was rewarded with the magical experience of watching a full moon slowly slide below the port-side horizon of a red wine sky to the east as the sun came up in honey tones on the starboard west. Even the widest lens cannot capture both sides of the sky in one shot but it was a good example of how some of the best light for
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C U LT U R E
Clockwise, from facing page: Viking Orion; a man cycling in Vietnam; a woman planting rice in a paddy field in Vietnam
photography is often in the first hour of the day when most people are still asleep. On my early travels I was shooting black and white film with a fully manual Leica M6 35mm camera to make hand printed images for exhibitions. Like me, cameras have come a long way since then; there has been a digital revolution and now even mobile phone cameras are capable of producing amazingly high-quality photographs. Some things never change though and every successful photograph still depends on a combination of exposure, focus and composition. Whether you are
using a basic compact camera or a sophisticated SLR camera, you will always have the option to set the camera to automatic and simply point and shoot. The camera will take care of exposure and focus, but the composition is all down to the photographer, even for those using a mobile phone camera. So let’s get down to basics and start with exposure – this is the amount of light that you let into the camera to expose the sensor that captures the image. If you don’t let enough light in the image will be underexposed and too dark; conversely too much light and it will be overexposed and washed
out. The amount of light that enters the camera is controlled by a combination of the size of the hole that lets the light in (or aperture, referred to as an f-stop) and the length of time the hole is open (or the shutter speed; this can be anything from a fraction of a second to several minutes). On an automatic setting your camera will give you an optimum combination of these two based on the light available by combining the fastest shutter speed and smallest aperture possible. The camera chooses the smallest aperture as this will give you the greatest depth of field, which SPR ING 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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means that as much as possible of all the subject matter in the image will be in focus. Sometimes you may want to make a creative decision to override this and chose a larger aperture to intentionally create a narrower or more selective depth of field. I did this in the images I took in Vietnam, of a man on a bike riding down a country road and a woman planting rice in a wet paddy field (image on the previous page). In these images by selecting a larger aperture the subject has been isolated from the background for dramatic effect. This can be achieved by simply changing your camera setting from P (program) or A (auto) to Av (aperture priority) then choose a large aperture (the 36
It was a magnificent journey with exciting photo opportunities both at sea and on our excursions smaller the f number the larger the aperture), point the camera at the main subject in order to focus on it (using the auto focus option) then just click the shutter and the camera will do the rest, automatically choosing the best shutter speed for a perfect exposure. It seems counterintuitive – the lower the number, the larger the aperture. By selecting a small aperture like f22 or f11 you will have maximum depth of field so everything from a grain of sand in the foreground of your shot to a distant mountain will be in focus,
while a large aperture with a low number (f4 or less) will give the smallest depth of field leaving only the subject you select in focus. This is perfectly illustrated by my shots of this row of statues in a Buddhist monastery in Sihanoukville, Cambodia (above). In each case I focused on the front statue. In the main image I selected f 22 so all the other statues are in focus from foreground to background. In the top left image using f8, only the first three statues are in focus and in the image to the top right using f4 only the front
Clockwise, from above: Statues in the Buddist monastery in Sihanoukville, Cambodia; the deck and pool area of Viking Orion; Hong Kong
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The smaller the aperture is, the longer the shutter needs to be open to let in enough light Clockwise, from facing page: The temple in Ho Chi Minh; Cambodian monks; Halong Bay
one is in focus. In each shot all I did was choose the aperture and the camera did the rest. In situations when you want everything in focus, use the P mode and your camera will automatically give the greatest depth of field. However, the smaller the aperture is, the longer the shutter needs to be open to let in enough light. In low light conditions you may need to increase the ISO setting on your camera to increase the speed of capture and avoid a slow shutter
speed that will risk camera shake and make the whole image out of focus. All cameras have a dial to change the ISO; unfortunately the higher the ISO, the higher the grain or noise in the finished photo so this option has to be used with caution. In bright sunny weather, an ISO of 100 is fine, however, in the shots I took at dawn and dusk as Viking Orion sailed crossed the Gulf of Thailand, I compensated for the low light by increasing the ISO
from 100 to 4000 – high enough for a good depth of field without too much noise. In the shot of the Hong Kong skyline at night, there was no option other than using a tripod. This allowed me to use a long shutter speed at f11 to capture the cityscape and clouds in fine focus detail. Sometimes, even on the P or A setting your camera can let you down as it selects the exposure according to all the light available rather than that on your subject. In two of my images (one of shafts of light coming through the temple roof in Ho Chi Minh, opposite, and the other of two Cambodian SPR ING 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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You can use this technique to concentrate on details, like these tiny Buddahs
monks, previous page) I have had to override the camera’s choice by using the exposure compensation dial. In the first case to lower the exposure by one stop and in the second case to increase the exposure by one stop. This is easily done by turning the dial (every camera has one) to +1 or -1 while in the P mode. On some cameras the compensation dial is found on the menu by pushing the symbol of a square with a diagonal line dividing it into two triangles with a + sign one side and a - the other. In the first shot there is very little light for the camera to find and it over 40
compensated by overexposing the shot, so I simply dialled in less light (-1). In the shot of the monks the light behind them is brighter than the light on them so the camera would have underexposed the shot so I corrected it (by choosing +1), letting in more light. I have never seen a camera without an exposure compensation dial but some are easier to find than others; it is worth persevering as it is a very valuable tool that I regularly use. It works in every camera mode except Auto. A good tip for getting interesting images on a dull day is to wait for that brief moment between sunset
and dark, which is what I did on this shot taken in Halong Bay (previous page). Despite grey skies, this image of another ship passing us, all lit up with the mountainous limestone islands as a backdrop, is very atmospheric. You can also use this technique to concentrate on details, like these tiny Buddhas in a Bangkok street stall or these offerings on the wall of a Chinese temple in the old town of Haikou (above). Once you have mastered these technical tricks they soon become second nature allowing you to choose the composition of your images with increased confidence.
Above: Offerings on a wall of a Chinese temple in Haikou; Buddahs from a Bangkok street stall
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T R AV E L
POSTCARD from
KIE V Writer Cassie Wilcox enjoyed three days in the Ukrainian capital on Viking’s Kiev to the Black Sea river cruise
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY
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he history of Ukraine is long and exciting. Revolutions have come and gone, and the country’s liberation from the Soviet Union in 1991 saw the emergence of a proud, independent nation with a rich culture and heritage. Today, nearly 30 years on, Ukraine is undergoing a different revolution, a cultural transformation, in which it is emerging as an exciting travel destination, and nowhere is this more evident than in its capital, Kiev. Our 11-day cruise along the beautiful Dnieper River began in Kiev, where we settled in to Viking Sineus, our home for the journey. From here, we headed out to explore the historic city, where elegant boulevards and huge squares with ornate statues and fountains lend a European flavour. The city is green with parks and forested hills, punctuated with incredible monuments, including the UNESCO-listed Monastery of the Caves. Tourists and Orthodox pilgrims flock to this multidomed complex of churches and monasteries, set on grassy hills overlooking the river. Founded in the 11th century, its gold-domed churches shine in the sun, and as we walked inside the walls, we were awestruck by the sound of a choir singing in the nearby Dormition Cathedral. Equally divine was the Refectory Church, with its stunning frescoes. The Church of the Saviour at Berestove is close by, recognisable by its green domes. But it is the medieval network of underground caves that is perhaps the most exotic and intriguing site – it contains 51 mummified bodies of monks and saints. With only candles to light our way, we descended the narrow steps and filed past the open coffins whose contents are covered, save that of Saint Ilya Muromets, whose brown withered hand is visible. For pilgrims, this is the holiest site in Ukraine. The next stop on our tour was the glorious St. Sophia Cathedral. Another UNESCO site, it was built over nine centuries, with sections of the original 11th-century brown and pink stones intact and is the oldest standing church in Kiev. The interior is spectacular, boasting original mosaics and frescoes, dating back to the 11th century. Our ship was docked in Kiev for three days, which is ample time to see the highlights. As well as an included daily excursion, Viking offers a number of optional tours, including a visit to Kiev War Museum, and one on which you can explore the city’s Jewish history. I opted to join our Viking chef on a trip to Kiev’s central food market. Here, we savoured a selection of traditional Ukrainian
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foods. Salo is a Ukrainian staple. Cured pork fat, it’s served on rye bread, washed down with a shot of vodka. The freshly baked Ukrainian bread with cheese was exquisite, as was my personal favourite – pickled cucumbers with garlic and dill. The cheesecake – made with fresh cranberries – was equally delicious. Our final day’s excursion was a 15-minute drive out of town. The Pirogovo Open-Air Museum of Architecture is a collection of more than 200 buildings, relocated from all over Ukraine. Even the roads, or dirt tracks, are authentic. Like many of the excursions on this trip, there was an ‘active’ version if you felt like walking further. Wandering around the different houses, church and school was a brilliant insight into how everyday life was lived in Ukraine. The attention to detail was extraordinary, and made even more interesting with our knowledgeable guides. Perhaps the most striking monument in Kiev is the Motherland Statue. Overlooking the river, this monumental 102 metres-high warrior woman towers over everything. Inaugurated by Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev in 1981, it was the last such monument erected in Ukraine. The Motherland Statue is a unique and extraordinary sight as you sail out of the city, south to the Black Sea. It was a fitting finale to our stay in Kiev, and a lasting impression of the strength of this vast country, and its inspiring people.
Clockwise, from opposite page: The domes of St. Sophia's Cathedral shine in the sunlight; Motherland Statue is a striking monument in Kiev; an example of traditional Ukrainian embroidery
A 12-day Kiev, Black Sea & Bucharest cruise in 2020 starts at £2,895pp
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First impressions Sarah Williams, a first-time river cruiser, reports back from her travels on the RhĂ´ne, and finds a home-from-home aboard Viking Heimdal
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irst impressions matter. So when two Viking representatives greeted my partner and me by name at the airport, we knew our Viking journey would be even more special than anticipated. Our excitement grew as we were personally escorted to our transport and whisked through beautiful Lyon to the elegant Viking Heimdal. Awaiting crew welcomed us on the quay, took our luggage and led us into the graceful, cleanlined atrium where we checked in easily. As we entered our impressive stateroom, the calming design and efficient layout made us instantly feel at home. This was our first cruise of any kind, and our escort, whom
we happily got to know during the week, explained the finer details of our stateroom and life on board our Viking Longship. Our gracious steward, Maxim, also introduced himself, and helped to provide whatever we needed. After unpacking into ample storage space, we opened the door to the warmth of our veranda. Already feeling cosy and pampered, we enjoyed a relaxing drink as we eased into the gentle rhythm of life on board with Viking. It was then time to explore our temporary home. On the Sun Deck we admired the very comfortable lounge chairs, and played a terrifically inexpert game of shuffleboard. In the airy
restaurant below we indulged in the sumptuous Embarkation Buffet, where we piled our plates high with fresh salads, charcuterie and cheeses. Seating ourselves next to the floor-to-ceiling windows by the expansive Rhône river, we were soon joined by people whose company we continued to enjoy throughout the week. My partner and I have always been active travellers, and on our first full day we eagerly set out with our knowledgeable local guide to explore vibrant Lyon. The imposing Basilica de Notre-Dame de Fourvière stands proudly above the city, offering stunning views. By the Saône river, outdoor murals covering entire building walls
This page: Lyon stands proud on the banks of the Saône River
The imposing Basilica de Notre-Dame de Fourvière stands proudly above the city, offering stunning views
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highlight Lyon’s historical figures. We were especially charmed by the city’s traboules, intriguing covered passageways hidden behind closed doors, which wind through courtyards between cobbled streets. After the tour, we sought out Lyon’s famous silk in old city shops. That afternoon, members of one of the city’s last remaining family
Aquavit Terrace, but its comfortable sofas with stunning river views offered a relaxing place to socialise with fellow travellers. We enjoyed pre-dinner drinks there too, taking full advantage of the Silver Spirits Beverage package we had purchased to indulge in the ship’s array of excellent wines. There we also enjoyed varied cultural programmes, including a We were charmed by the city’s traboules, fascinating talk intriguing covered passageways hidden behind on the French closed doors, which wind through coutryards Resistance, performances by local musicians, owned silk workshops treated us to and even a cheese tasting! a presentation in Viking Heimdal’s While feeling comfortably at Lounge on Lyon’s silk history, making home on board Viking Heimdal, and painting. We were even invited we were also determined to take to try our own hand at painting advantage of the many excursions some of their beautiful silk velvet. on offer. The Beaujolais Wine The Lounge became a real Country trip took us out into hub for our trip. Not only did the stunning countryside. Our we enjoy its buffet lunches, often first stop was in the picturesque eating outside on the sun-drenched town of Beaujeu, for which the
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wine is named. After visiting the lovely Church of Saint-Nicolas, we explored quiet side streets, exchanging greetings with local residents. A stunning display of flowers and a pretty, hidden alleyway caught our eye, but ultimately we were drawn into a bakery for freshly made tartes au pomme, and a chocolate shop where the proprietor happily helped us to select from the delights on offer. Our next stop was for a château winery tour and tasting, and our contentment was complete. As our Viking Longship glided away from Lyon that afternoon, my partner and I settled into rocking chairs at the very front of the Aquavit Terrace, sipping more wine as we enjoyed the open river views and buzz of excitement as we passed through our first lock. Lovely Vienne, our next destination, has a fascinating Roman history, marked by a temple, amphitheatre and gardens
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T R AV E L all in the city’s centre. More active explorers climbed the steep Mount Pipet to admire its quaint chapel, Virgin Mary statue, and expansive river and city views. We opted to take the more leisurely land train to the top and back, and then enjoyed a meander through Vienne’s impressive Saturday market. Whilst cruising smoothly down river that afternoon toward Tournon, we were invited to visit the bridge where Captain Richard generously answered our questions as we witnessed his impressive navigation skills first hand. A relaxed hour on the Sun Deck, sharing wine and sausage from the morning’s market foray, led to cocktails in the Lounge and another spectacular meal with newfound friends, served by the capable, affable Jakub, who learned our tastes and shared our humour. A delightful steam train journey through the spectacular, unspoilt Doux Valley of the Ardèche was a
highlight of our stay in Tournon. Later we were treated to an evening walking tour of the hilly village of Viviers before departing overnight for Avignon. Waking briefly in the night, the only indication that we were moving was the landscape gliding gracefully past. Avignon is a fascinating city encircled by gleaming white walls. Our tour took us through the pristine streets to the Palace of the Popes, where we breezed past crowds waiting to enter. Inside, our expert guide brought to life the palace’s remarkable history. I felt a particular thrill standing in the Window of Indulgences, exactly where the popes of Avignon stood to address their faithful followers. Another highlight was our optional excursion to Châteauneufdu-Pape where we watched the famous wine in production and savoured their various bottles before confronting the difficult decision of which ones to take home with
us. Arles, our final destination, was equally engaging. Our guide shared with us the traditions surrounding bull fighting in the Amphitheatre and details of Vincent Van Gogh’s troubled time there. The afternoon allowed free time to explore Arles further, including its new museum, the Foundation Vincent Van Gogh. After a week of fine weather, the mistral began to blow as we reluctantly disembarked for the last time. We would miss Viking Heimdal – the comfort of our stateroom, the warmth, generosity and seamless efficiency of the crew, and the abundant, enticing food and drink. We departed with wonderful memories, new friends, and an appreciation of the glorious Rhône region, our appetites whetted for another Viking adventure. An 8-day Lyon & Provence trip starts from £1,495, departing in March 2020. vikingcruises.co.uk
Clockwise, from facing page, far left: The Basilica de Notre-Dame de Fourvière, Lyon; Châteauneuf-duPape; the Pont Saint Benezet, Avignon; Sarah Williams enjoys the sunshine; French flowers in bloom
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Meet and greet Two Viking staff members share their backgrounds and their insider tips for the perfect cruise How did you get into working on a cruise ship?
IVANA VUJOVIC, BARTENDER, VIKING SUN Ivana was born in the north of Serbia. Before she started at Viking in 2014, Ivana had worked in various professions including martial arts, stand-up comedy and singing.
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Working as a bartender at the time, I was looking for a change, a possibility to get out of the routine, when one of my friends suggested I work on a cruise ship. I was a bit hesitant at first, but then really enjoyed the training and to learn all aspects of working on a ship. What do you like most about working for Viking?
I like the energy on the ship and the feeling of being part of a big family as I consider my colleagues as family. I also like the management style, as managers always have an open ear for staff,
which creates a positive work environment, and I pass this positive attitude on towards the guests. I also like all the little details that make the guests happy and the possibility to meet many international people on the ship and, of course, to make them laugh. What are your favourite areas on the ship?
Personally, I enjoy using the gym very much, as I am quite an active person. I would also recommend doing the tastings on board because you can learn how to make a range of delicious drinks and cocktails that can easily be recreated when you are back home.
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size of the ships and the itineraries. The product and concept is the best in the industry, any day, hands down. What are your favourite areas on the ship?
The Explorers’ Lounge, which can be found at the front of the ship on Deck 8. It is beautifully designed and offers exquisite views of the scenery we cruise past.
TOM ABERG, HOTEL MANAGER Tom is Swedish, but he lives on the beautiful Spanish island of Palma de Mallorca. Why did you decide to work in the cruise industry?
What are your favourite destinations?
I love Norway and Scandinavia, especially the nature and the fjords and the possibility to explore. I also really like the Baltic, Estonia and the Mediterranean as these countries have so much history. How do you like to spend your time off?
Above: The Explorers’ Lounge on board a Viking ocean ship. Right: The picturesque Mallorca coastline
My father had ships when I was younger and I started working for him, on smaller vessels, cruising from Sweden to Finland. I did behind-the-scenes positions for a few years (Laundry, Housekeeping, Dishwash and Galley) but then started tending the bars. My last position on that ship was as a bartender in ‘Sky Bar’, their big bar with a dancefloor. After this era in my life, I got recruited to shore-side operations, and worked in huge restaurants, hotels and banquet operations all around the world. After doing that for 15 years, I returned to ships. What do you like the most about working for Viking?
I started working for Viking in 2016, and I love the product, the
Which is your favourite port so far and which destinations would you like to visit and why?
I love Kotor in Montenegro and most ports around the Dalmatian coast – Dubrovnik, Split, Zadar. Perfect weather, happy people and not too exploited with tourism. A destination I haven’t visited yet is the islands of French Polynesia – Bora-Bora, Tahiti and Papete. Those are bucket-list stops for me.
How do you like to spend your time off?
In many ways. I like to build stuff in my home and I like to redecorate. Floors, walls and furniture often gets changed out and I love looking into new lighting options and cutting-edge gadgets too. Do you have any tips you would like to give to future Viking guests to make the most of their time on board?
Enjoy everything about your trip; the food, the tours, the crew, the drinks, the views, the rooms, because they are really the best. You will not find better value for money elsewhere, that’s my opinion.
I like to read books, watch movies, work out in the gym and spend time with my friends. On board the ship I also do a bit of stand-up comedy for my colleagues from time to time.
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK
What tips would you give to guests for making the most of their time on board?
Try Aquavit, go to all the shows and talks and learn as much as you can. I would also recommend the food in Turkey, St. Petersburg for buying jewellery and the wine in Greece, as well as the Baltic and Estonia for budget-friendly shopping. SPR ING 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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A TASTE OF
TRAVEL
Inspired by her love of travel and history, food writer Karen Burns-Booth shares some of her favourite recipes from around the world
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FOOD
STREET FOOD SINGAPORE NOODLES Part of the charm of this small Far East nation is its street food. You will find “chow halls” and streets dedicated to all manner of fast food wherever you go in Singapore, with families and businessmen rubbing shoulders with one another as they enjoy their noodles. This is a quick vegetarian dish that uses frozen Asian vegetables for convenience. SERVES 4
• 320g egg noodles • 450g frozen stir-fry vegetables (mixture of shredded cabbage, carrots, spring onions, peppers, bean sprouts, sweetcorn kernels) • 1 egg, beaten • 1 teaspoon five-spice powder • 2 teaspoons mild curry powder • 2 tablespoons of soy sauce METHOD
Cook the noodles in a large wok, drain the noodles and add the vegetable mixture. Mix well. Empty the noodles and vegetable mixture into another container and fry the egg in the wok, scrambling it. Add the noodles and vegetables to the wok again. Heat the noodles and vegetables with the egg over a medium heat for 5 minutes, then add the five spice, curry powder and soy sauce, mix well and cook over a high heat for a further 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with extra soy sauce and sweet chilli sauce.
TRADITIONAL CYPRIOT BREAKFAST There are many variations of a traditional Cypriot breakfast and they vary little from North to South Cyprus, as in Greece and Turkey, but this is how I remember them when I lived in Cyprus many years ago. This is not so much a recipe but a list of ingredients that must be assembled together. However, each component is essential to the overall taste and enjoyment of this rustic Levantine dish.
SERVES 1+
METHOD
• 1 large ripe beefsteak tomato, sliced • Handful of black or green olives • 1 to 2 slices of halloumi (hellim) cheese or feta cheese (Beyaz Peynir) • Sliced cucumber • 1 to 2 slices of “country” bread or sourdough bread • Dried oregano • Sea salt • Black pepper • Drizzle of olive oil • Fried or boiled egg (optional)
Arrange the sliced tomato, olives, cheese and cucumber on a large plate. Sprinkle some dried oregano, sea salt and black pepper over the tomatoes, cheese and cucumber. Drizzle the olive oil over the bread and tomatoes, and then serve. (Add the egg if using at this stage.) NB: The halloumi (hellim) cheese is usually served cold in this dish, as it will be aged and quite hard; if using a fresher soft halloumi (hellim) cheese, you can fry it over a gentle heat until golden brown. SPR ING 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK
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DURBAN LAMB CURRY A hot and spicy lamb stew which is cooked in a rich tomato and curry masala broth, Durban curry doesn’t usually have fruit added, but I have added some plump, dried South African apricots for sweetness and texture. Use diced lamb leg or neck of lamb and serve with basmati rice, naan bread, chutney and a handful of peanuts. SERVES 4 WITH LEFTOVERS
• 1 tablespoon rapeseed oil • 600g diced fresh lamb (leg or neck of lamb) • 2 onions, peeled and finely diced • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely diced • 2 inches fresh ginger root, peeled and finely diced • 2 teaspoons garam masala • 1 tablespoon curry masala, or chilli powder, adjust the heat to suit by reducing the amount if necessary • 200g chopped tinned tomatoes • 600ml stock, mixed with 1 tablespoon tomato paste/ concentrate • ½ teaspoon salt • 2 tablespoons frozen peas • 1 green pepper, trimmed and diced • 12 to 16 dried apricots • 2 tablespoons roast peanuts • chopped fresh coriander to serve • extra peanuts to serve 52
METHOD
Heat the oil in a non-stick pan or a cast iron pan that has a lid, and then add the diced lamb; sauté the lamb in batches over a medium heat until it is brown. Set aside the cooked lamb and continue to sauté the lamb until it is all browned. Add the onions, garlic and ginger to the pan and sauté over a low heat until the onions are just golden brown. Add the curry spices and cook for 1 to 2 minutes until they release their aroma. Add the tinned
tomatoes, stock with tomato puree and season to taste with salt. Simmer for 3 to 4 minutes before adding the peas, peppers and apricots, place a lid on the pan and simmer over a low to medium heat without boiling for 35 to 40 minutes until the lamb is tender and the vegetables are cooked. Adjust seasoning to taste, scatter the peanuts and chopped coriander over the curry and serve with basmati rice, chutney, naan breads and extra peanuts.
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FOOD
SWEDISH MIDSUMMER FRESH BERRIES & CREAM GATEAU The cake is traditionally made with a fatless sponge. It has three layers and is filled with an egg -enriched cream (similar to confectioners’ custard) as well as strawberries. Although I love confectioner’s custard, I decided to lighten my recipe up after advice from a Swedish friend and use Chantilly cream. I also added some fresh raspberries; I feel that most Swedes will forgive me as they are a nation of berry lovers.
MAKES 12 SLICES
METHOD
Cake • 6 eggs • 250g caster sugar • 2 teaspoons baking powder • 100g self-raising flour • 50g potato flour • 90ml warm water
Pre-heat oven to 180ºC/350ºF/Gas mark 4. Line a round cake tin (30cm x 10cm) with baking paper. Whisk the eggs with the sugar until light and fluffy. Mix the dry ingredients together and then gently fold them into the whisked eggs. Add the boiled water and then mix until all amalgamated, but do not over mix. Pour the cake mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 30 to 35 minutes until it has risen and is golden brown. Turn out of the tin and allow to cool on a wire rack. Meanwhile make the Chantilly cream by whisking the cream, icing sugar and vanilla extract together until the cream holds firm peaks. Cover it and store in the fridge until needed. When the cake is cold, carefully cut it into three layers and place one layer on a serving plate. Spoon a third of the cream over the cake, then add the strawberries and raspberries. Continue to layer the cake this way ending with the top which is also decorated with cream, strawberries and raspberries. Serve cut into slices with extra fruit on the side.
Filling and Topping • 350ml double cream • 4 tablespoons icing sugar • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract • 450g fresh strawberries, hulled and cut in half if very large • 200g fresh raspberries
All recipes featured here are taken from Karen’s new book, Lavender & Lovage, published by Passageway Press.
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Top Ten
COFFEE SPOTS Americano, cappuccino or latte? How you drink your coffee is important, so too is where you drink it. Cassie Wilcox picks 10 of the best spots to sit and sip
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ARLES
You don’t need to be a Van Gogh fan for this place to make an impression. Café van Gogh on the Place du Forum is the place to channel your inner artist. Van Gogh famously painted this quintessential French café in 1888 during his stay in Arles. It makes for the perfect spot to sit and soak up the atmosphere.
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VIENNA
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Serving what is arguably the best coffee and cake in the world, a visit to a Viennese kaffehaus (coffee house) is more than a caffeine fix, it’s a complete sensory experience. The cafés of Vienna are an elegant affair, an integral part of society where you can read a newspaper, chat, play a game of chess, listen to music and really relax. Many famous Viennese institutions, including the opulent Café Sacher, which serves its irresistible Sachertorte, and the gorgeous, Art Nouveau Café Sperl, have been up and running for over 100 years.
BUDAPEST
Foodies will flock to Budapest’s Central Market Hall, one of Europe’s largest and most spectacular indoor food markets. Located in a grand Gothic building, it’s the perfect place to get to know Hungary’s famously delicious cuisine. The ground floor is a feast of colour and tastes, selling everything from fruit and vegetables to spices and salami. Head up to the first floor for the cafés, where you can enjoy a rich, restorative coffee.
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SIEM REAP
Gateway to Angkor Wat with its ancient, UNESCO Site temples, Siem Reap has grown into a resort centre of hip hotels and world-class food and drink, and that includes delicious world-class coffee. The town boasts a great choice of cafés to savour a coffee just the way you like it. Here, in the heart of the Cambodian jungle, you can enjoy the best of both worlds.
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STOCKHOLM
The tradition of fika in Sweden is important throughout the country; it means to stop and enjoy a coffee and pastries with friends or family. During the long winter months it helps to have a little extra energy, so why not slow down for an hour and enjoy this little moment of everyday indulgence.
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BERLIN
The chic capital, you would expect Berlin to be bursting with great cafés and great coffee – and it certainly delivers. Berlin’s coffee scene is thriving and offers a wonderful variety of choice, with The Barn and Double Eye ranking among our favourite haunts. Near the Berlin Wall Memorial is Bonanza Coffee Roasters, one of the first and best.
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Russia is famous for many things, but great coffee isn’t one of them. However, there are a few cafés and restaurants in Moscow’s ornate GUM Department Store that serve very passable kofe. It tastes even better if you find a seat outside on Red Square, with views of the Kremlin, St. Basil’s Cathedral and the State Historical Museum. 56
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY
MOSCOW
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PARIS
In a country where “people watching” is a national sport, you want the coffee to be perfect. Beautiful Paris does not disappoint. Sitting in a Parisian café is one of the many simple pleasures in this glorious city. Paris’ Left Bank offers an eclectic mix of historic and new cafés with plenty of atmosphere.
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CHINA
ILLUSTRATION: © GETTY IMAGES
If coffee really is not your cup of tea, you’ll feel right at home in China. Tea is at the very heart of Chinese culture and history, and the delightful tea ceremony represents an important ritual of spirituality. There are five main categories of tea (white, green, black, oolong and post-fermented or dark tea), as well as scented teas that are flavoured with flowers, fruits and herbs.
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LISBON
Lisbon’s picturepostcard cobblestone streets, pastelcoloured houses and whitedomed cathedrals are reason enough to pause for refreshments and take in the views. Then there’s the pastéis de nata, the sweet and scrumptious Portuguese custard tart that is the perfect accompaniment to a cup of rich coffee. Thanks to its Brazilian connections, Portugal has long enjoyed the best coffee beans – as well as the best baristas.
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Investec Opera Holland Park
2019 Season
Join as a member and save up to £8 per ticket
4 June – 3 August 2019 Featuring new productions of: Puccini’s Manon Lescaut Verdi’s Un ballo in maschera Cilea’s L’arlesiana Wolf-Ferrari’s Il segreto di Susanna Tchaikovsky’s Iolanta
Book now at operahollandpark.com Viking Explore More ad.indd 1
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COLUMN
ON LOCATION with Karine As Senior Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen is constantly on the move. Here she shares her pick of the best bookshops around the world
HEYWOOD HILL, LONDON
LIVRARIA LELLO, PORTO
Situated in the heart of Mayfair, this iconic literary landmark is a destination in itself. With new, old and antiquarian books on offer, the staff excel in matching customers with just the right book to read, and we are honoured that Heywood Hill curates the libraries on board Viking ships. heywoodhill.com
This spectacular bookshop, packed with architectural beauty and atmosphere, inspired JK Rowling to write some of the famous scenes in Harry Potter. If you’re on one of our Douro cruises, it is a lovely idea to visit this store in your free time. livrarialello.pt
SHAKESPEARE AND COMPANY, PARIS This famous English-language bookshop in the heart of Paris, on the banks of the Seine, became a Left Bank literary institution and has long been a meeting place for writers and thinkers. Still owned by the same family today, the shop has a fascinating history and a tradition of hosting travelling writers known as ‘tumbleweeds’. shakespeareandcompany.com
LIBRERIA ACQUA ALTA, VENICE This quirky shop is situated in the heart of Venice and, as a result of being near so much water, has a novel approach to keeping books safe from any floods: they store stacks of books in boats, bathtubs and gondolas. A magical place to visit, full of secret nooks, quiet reading corners and even a flight of stairs made of books. facebook.com/libreriaacquaalta
DAUNT BOOKS, LONDON When I lived in London, I loved having this independent bookshop around the corner from my home, particularly since it boasts a great selection of travel books. dauntbooks.co.uk
PHOTOS: © ALAMY
NEW FINSE BOOKS My beloved Labrador, Finse, is the host of a series of books exploring the world. Finse often accompanies me on my adventures, and has most recently been exploring how to communicate in world languages and learning about the planets in our solar system. Other books in the series include Finse’s First Journey, Finse Explores Scandinavia, Finse Explores Europe, Finse Explores World Foods and more.
Clockwise, from above: The impressive interiors of Livraria Lello; the welcoming entrance to Heywood Hill
FINSE EXPLORES THE UNIVERSE
PLANETS
Karine Hagen Suzy-Jane Tanner
FINSE EXPLORES WORLD LANGUAGES
Karine Hagen Suzy-Jane Tanner
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VIKING
Book Club If you’re on the lookout for a new read, your search is over! Here is our round-up of the best books inspired by, or based around, rivers
THE SECRET RIVER
THE DANUBE
By Kate Grenville
By Nick Thorpe
MEANDER: EAST TO WEST ALONG A TURKISH RIVER
Canongate, £8.99
Yale University Press, £12.99
By Jeremy Seal
This best-selling historical novel won the Commonwealth Writers’ Prize and was on the Man Booker Prize shortlist. In 1806, William Thornhill is a waterman earning a living on the River Thames, but as events unfold he is sentenced to live out his days in New South Wales. Eventually pardoned, he dreams of owning land along the Hawkesbury River, and the story focuses on the characters also based around the river and the struggles between incomers and the indigenous population. A modern classic, the story revolves around one man’s struggle for survival in the Australian outback.
A year-long adventure sees travel writer Nick Thorpe travel the length of the mighty Danube River from east to west. Spanning ten countries in total (Romania, Ukraine, Moldova, Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia, Hungary, Slovakia, Austria and Germany), the journey is both personal and amusing, as well as geographically epic. From swimming in the river every morning to meeting the huge range of local people living on its banks, the book serves as a useful guide and also as a very addictive and enjoyable travelogue.
Chatto & Windus, £16.99
HEART OF DARKNESS
THE WIND IN THE WILLOWS By Kenneth Grahame
FROM SOURCE TO SEA: A MEANDER DOWN THE DORDOGNE VALLEY
Chatto & Windus, £16.99
Penguin Classics, £5.99
Published 110 years ago, this classic tale is popular with both children and adults and centres around the entertaining lives of Mole, Rat, Badger and Toad, as well as many other creatures living on, and in, the river. The book is full of adventures and mishaps, with Toad usually in the midst of the action! This edition features beautiful illustrations by Australian artist Robert Ingpen. A sentimental choice that will conjure up childhood memories, whilst also addressing more serious themes.
An epic tale focusing on Marlow, a seaman who undertakes a physical and psychological journey in the Congo. Searching for ivory trader Kurtz, who looms large in his imagination, Marlow travels upriver into the heart of Africa. There he uncovers the truths about both Kurtz and the dark side of colonisation that has enabled Kurtz to gain his power, and in turn starts to question the foundations of his own life and the civilisation in which he lives. A timeless classic.
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By Valerie Thompson valerie-thompson.co.uk, £14.99 from amazon.co.uk or lulu.com Written by a past Viking guest, this clever book is a journey down the whole length of the Dordogne River, exploring the history, the archaeology and architecture, and the cathedrals and castles of several regions alongside and surrounding the waterway. Numerous pen and ink illustrations and maps, also drawn by the multi-talented Valerie, enliven the text and help to inspire readers to lose themselves in this educational voyage of discovery.
PHOTOS: © GETTY
By Joseph Conrad
Famously winding, the River Meander has leant its name to the concept of digression, and it is this idea that sparked writer Jeremy Seal to set off on his solo trip in a folding canoe along its length. Starting at the source of the river in the uplands of Turkey and finishing at its mouth on the Aegean Sea, there is a huge range of historical, cultural and personal threads woven into this journey. Jeremy’s passion for Turkey is evident in this lovely book that is sure to inspire your next adventure.
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BOOK CLUB
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ALICE
THE GREAT In our new short story written for Viking by Wendy Holden, a journey to Russia becomes a turning point for a writer looking for inspiration
ALICE was wide awake. She had not slept a wink. Her mind had churned throughout the small hours, replaying endlessly what had happened at her publishers the previous afternoon. “Maybe you should try a new direction,” her latest editor had suggested. The last few years had brought a new one annually to preside over ever-more-slumping sales of Alice’s novels. “What direction?” Alice had wailed. The editor, who was called Leaf and was a child in her early twenties, had suggested Alice “have a think about it”. Whilst doing so she should revamp her online platforms and build up readers and followers. Look at other writers in her field and see what they did. Remembering this bit of the conversation, Alice groaned. Other writers’ platforms were terrifying. They were buzzy, busy and bright and made her own look like something Dr. Beeching had shut down in the Sixties. In the dim light of dawn, the Victorian ceiling cornices were starting to emerge. Alice had bought No 78 with her first really big advance. Reardon Road had then been unfashionable; her career, meanwhile, had been at its zenith. But now they had changed places. Another of Leaf ’s suggestions was that Alice update her original genre. Her hit novels had been about single girls in bedsits looking for Mr Right. But Alice no longer had any idea how single girls in bedsits lived. Nor, in the age of Tinder, gaslighting, and compulsory gender fluidity, did she especially want to know. Her own Mr Right, her husband Nick, anyway now seemed more like Mr Wrong. They had been married for twenty five years. Rather like the house value, Nick’s legal career had waxed as his wife’s had waned.
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He was in demand, busy in court, out early, back late. Days could pass without her properly seeing him. Alice’s main male companion now was Justin Webb, but only in a radio sense unfortunately. As Nick snored peacefully beside her, Alice wondered crossly whether he knew what was worrying her or cared. As full-blown despair threatened to grip, she slid out of bed. In the ensuite, she examined her wrinkles in the mirror. Her face looked like scrunchedup tissue paper. Make-up might help. But Alice had recently read an article in the Sunday papers warning about getting stuck in a make-up rut. This meant using the same old products the same old way. Alice, who had unwaveringly bought a particular lipstick, mascara and eyebrow pencil for the last twenty years, knew she was in the deepest of these cosmetics chasms. As for her once-blonde, now-grey hair, the least said the better and she no longer even knew where her contact lenses were. She went downstairs. On the kitchen table was the latest issue of the literary paper she subscribed to but rarely read, possibly hoping that the esoteric articles would transmit themselves by osmosis. Having switched on the kettle, she opened it at random. After a review of a book about the importance of cheese in literature and a sonnet about self-checkout tills, Alice found herself staring at the Classified section. Ads for villas in Italy and farmhouses in Languedoc, all offering the writer peace and quiet. As if, Alice thought scornfully, that was all you needed to succeed and not, as in her case, a complete change in literary direction. Another ad now caught her eye. Bigger than the others, it was in bold caps and enclosed in a box.
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“AUTHORS! SEEKING A NEW DIRECTION? NEED LITERARY REALIGNMENT? LET US GUIDE YOU ON OUR WRITING RETREAT IN RUSSIA. DISCOVER FRESH INSPIRATION IN THE LAND OF TOLSTOY AND DOSTOEVSKY.” Alice felt as if someone had rung a loud bell in her ear. Literary realignment was precisely what she needed. The location was a luxury hotel in St. Petersburg. Comfortable rooms, delicious food and the company of fellow writers was promised. Alice immediately pictured some mirrored and panelled palace hotel from the great days of the Tsars. She saw glasses of champagne and glistening piles of caviar. She saw herself, softly candlelit in the corner of some elegant salon, excitedly discussing her change of direction with people who, in stark contrast to her husband, understood her problems. She saw herself returning in glory, stunning Leaf with her new idea and blasting back up the bestseller list. To use that ghastly phrase, what was not to like? A month later, Alice locked the front door, pulled her suitcase down the path and climbed into the waiting Uber. She left behind her an empty house; Nick was away on a case in Scandinavia. He had been doubtful about the course. “Why go all the way to Russia? Can’t you do creative writing here?” He hadn’t understood the first thing about it, Alice thought, exasperated. Probably he hadn’t even been listening. She wasn’t just going to learn how to string a sentence together. She’d written sixteen novels, for goodness’ sake! But if she wanted to write any more, and have people actually buy them, she needed a new direction. And the chance to change track under expert guidance was what this course offered. “But who are the experts doing the guiding?” Nick wanted to know. His wife replied haughtily that they more than knew what they were doing. The course organiser, the very helpful, highly-literate and reassuringly well-spoken Sophie, had fielded all Alice’s queries on the telephone. She had grasped in an instant what her creative issues were. “We have many writers like you,” Sophie told her. “Household names have come to us in the past for help.” Alice was disappointed that client confidentiality prevented Sophie from naming those names. Nick had also pointed out how expensive it was, but Alice had decided that too was
her business. So what if the cost – paid in advance to get the ten per cent discount – absorbed most of what remained of her writing earnings? She was investing in her professional future. As well as taking herself somewhere she had always wanted to go. Romantic St. Petersburg, city of Anna Karenina and Natasha Rostov. Of the famous River Neva and the Mariinsky Theatre. Alice adored ballet, but Nick was too busy these days to ever go to Covent Garden, another thing that annoyed her about him. But in St. Petersburg she could go with her new writing friends. “I look forward to hearing all about it,” Nick had said dryly as he left. “Email me, won’t you?” As the Uber glided down Reardon Road Alice spotted the postman and waved. Seeing that he didn’t recognise her, she experienced a frisson of delight. Her new look, admittedly, was quite a departure. She had decided to address her make-up rut at the same time as her writing one and had, with the help of the obliging Jade in Selfridge’s beauty hall, entered a whole new world of contouring, brow-shaping and hydrating lipstick. Emboldened, she had then thrown caution to the wind, screwed her courage to the sticking place and gone into the trendiest hairdresser in Finsbury Park. She had emerged, not with the same streaked chin-length blonde bob she had rocked for the last thirty years, but something short, dark and dramatic that stopped at her ears. “Really shows off your cheekbones,” the hairdresser, a young man wearing eyeliner and leather trousers, had said. And once she had recovered from the shock, Alice had to admit it was an improvement. She had also bought new clothes, leaving her ancient jeans behind, and had rediscovered her contact lenses in a bathroom drawer. Alice had hoped to meet some of her fellow writers at Heathrow and had asked Sophie for their email addresses so she could contact them in advance. But Sophie had said it worked better if everyone met in Russia. “In the zone”, as she put it. Perhaps she was right, Alice thought, as the plane soared upwards and turned east. It might be hard work keeping up a conversation for five hours. She scanned the dog-eared drinks menu. At the price she had paid she hadn’t expected a no-frills airline, but no doubt the money was going on the grand hotel with the wonderful food. She was looking forward to that. It was early evening by the time Alice had completed her journey. She was now feeling quite confused. She wasn’t sure what she had expected on arrival in St. Petersburg, but it certainly hadn’t been
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a scruffy driver holding her badly-written, mis-spelt name on a battered piece of cardboard. Her first glimpse of the city had been exciting and uplifting – the light on the Neva, the glinting golden domes – but her spirits had slumped on being delivered to the concrete front of a basic-looking backstreet hotel. Perhaps they were going to the grand one tomorrow, Alice thought nervously, unlocking the thin balsa-wood door of her room and opening it to reveal a shoebox with a view over the hotel bins. She decided to go down to the bar. The other writers might be in there with any luck. The bar was off to the left of reception. It was subterranean and dark and furnished in a vaguely Eighties fashion. The barman was friendly, but spoke no English. Fortunately, ‘vodka’ was a universally understood term and having obtained one, Alice chose a slithery black plastic booth and looked round. There were no other writers from what she could see. No-one at all, in fact. Post-vodka, Alice returned to the reception desk. The tired-looking receptionist spoke even less English than the barman and it took time and patience to establish that no-one from the writing course had checked in. Slightly perturbed now, Alice went back to her room and rang Sophie. The number rang on and on and eventually rang out. Alice went online and consulted the website. Its minimalism, which had struck her as charming, now struck her as sinister. Sophie was the only contact mentioned on it and as Alice tried her number again, the grip of cold fear tightened on her insides. Nothing. She threw the phone on the bed and went to the window. Night had fallen, and a harsh light illuminated the brimming bins. Within Alice’s mind, an even harsher light revealed similarly unpleasant possibilities. There were no students and now there was no Sophie. Almost certainly there was no course. She felt sick, but even more, she felt a fool. Nick had been right to be suspicious. He would think her utterly stupid; a gullible, vain, delusory idiot. She sat on her narrow bed, opposite the muchscuffed wall and sobbed from sheer shame. Then she raised her head from her hands, took a deep breath and squared her shoulders. She had, as she saw it, two choices. One was to spend the seven days formerly earmarked for the course battling, in her non-existent Russian, with hotel and consular staff. But none of it was their fault and besides it was certain that Sophie would be untraceable.
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The other was to take it up when she returned to London – she had her ticket back, at least – and in the meantime make the most of the city she had long wanted to visit. The literary realignment course might have vanished, but St. Petersburg was very much still there. Alice decided on the second option. She would begin by moving hotels. “Dear Nick,” wrote Alice, the evening of the next day. “I have had the most wonderful day in St. Petersburg. I have never been anywhere so gloriously atmospheric; so redolent of the salons of old, the dazzling social life, the carriages, the diamonds. There are palaces everywhere and you can almost see the women in powdered wigs and the men in gold brocade and breeches; the mirrors twinkling with candles and the parquet floors ringing with the clip of buckled shoes. It all excites feelings that everyday life leaves completely undisturbed. “I visited the Peter and Paul Fortress, which is the city’s oldest building. It’s on the banks of the Neva and contains the Peter and Paul Cathedral, whose very tall slim spire can be seen all over the city. It’s a sort of Russian Westminster Abbey; all the Imperial royals are buried here, including Catherine the Great and Peter III, the feckless husband whom she overthrew on his accession. She dressed in the uniform of an Imperial Guardsman and rode out at the head of an army to arrest him…” An assertive woman, Alice thought, smiling. She had enjoyed discovering the story of Catherine, who seemed not only admirable but inspiring. She had faced many disasters and had always triumphed. Her indomitable example gave Alice hope that, in her much smaller way, she could do the same. She took a sip of chilled sparkling wine – there was a small bottle in the minibar – and looked happily around. Her new room was as magnificent as her old room had been scruffy; gold touches on the walls and ceiling and marble in the bathroom plus piles of white fluffy towels. The elegant French windows led out to a balcony overlooking the beautiful wide river. None of this came cheap, but it had utterly restored her spirits; possibly, in her heart of hearts, Alice was even glad that she wasn’t, after all, stuck inside doing a writing course. It would have been an utter waste of St. Petersburg. She took another sip and carried on. “The course is amazing but it’s the city I like best.” (It wasn’t quite a lie. The course – or rather the lack of it – had certainly amazed her. But Nick didn’t need to know the gruesome details. Not yet, anyway.) “Tomorrow I am going to visit the Hermitage. I hope the case is going
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C U LT U R E well in Oslo. Goodnight! Alice.” She hesitated and then added a few kisses. After a day happily wandering in so romantic a city, how could she not? Alice had expected the Hermitage to be spectacular but it surpassed anything she could ever have imagined. The huge baroque building, wildly decorative on the outside, was on the inside literally ablaze with art; some rooms, to increase the effect, actually had gold walls. Rubens, Rembrandts, Raphael, Titians; no significant painter from the Renaissance onwards seemed unrepresented. The size, the scale and the sheer number of works were almost literally staggering; sated with genius, Alice was practically reeling through the rooms by the end. But, as with the cathedral the previous day, it was the personality of Catherine the collecting Empress that intrigued her the most. It all started as politics, she wrote to Nick that night. Catherine began the Hermitage art collection by buying 225 paintings that Frederick the Great had passed on because he could no longer afford them. Catherine snapped them up to show that she was the richer, superior power. She started to look out for other collections and for the next 25 years it was a common sight to see ships tied up on the Neva outside the Winter Palace unloading packing crates containing Franz Hals and Van Dycks. Next day, still on the Catherine trail, Alice took herself to the Oranienbaum Park and wandered around beneath the trees, lost in the dreamy atmosphere. The cream and white Chinese Palace, “my private dacha” where Catherine had met her lover Grigory Orlov, was, Alice reported to Nick, so pretty, the rooms straight out of Italy and the paintings full of erotic significance. I spotted Diana and Endymion, the youth who was loved by a goddess. Orlov was a mere soldier in the Imperial Guard, geddit?! Reading it back, Alice realised with a jump of alarm that she hadn’t mentioned the course for several days now. The writing’s all very inspirational, she added hastily. And tonight I’m taking myself to the Mariinsky! She hastily amended this to we are going to the Mariinsky! That evening, sipping champagne during the interval of Swan Lake, Alice spotted a familiar figure amid the red plush, gilt and mirrors. After an initial shock of surprise, followed by a clench of terror – her secret would be out – she felt, rather unexpectedly, a warm flood of happiness. “Oslo’s only just up the road.” Nick pushed up his spectacles and smiled. The smile – somewhat awkward, slightly apologetic – twisted something within her; she hadn’t, Alice realised, seen it for a long time.
“And when you said you were coming here...” Nick nodded around the ornate foyer, “I thought I’d hop on a plane. It’s been a while since we went to the ballet together.” “Yes,” Alice agreed. He was still looking at her. Were it anyone else, she would describe his expression as “infatuated”. “You look so wonderful, Alice. So beautiful.” “My new hair.” She was actually blushing. How long was it since he had been able to make her do that? “That, yes. But something else too. You have a new glow about you. A confidence.” Thank you, Empress Catherine, Alice thought, lifting her chin and smiling. “I was wrong,” her husband went on. “The writing course – sorry, literary realignment – has done you a power of good.” Alice stared at the red carpet. “Um, about the course...” “Don’t worry. I know it hasn’t happened.” Over the cut crystal rim of his champagne glass, Nick’s eyes were twinkling. Alice stared into them, aghast. “How did you find out?” His broad shoulders, in what she now noticed was a smart new jacket, shrugged. “Same way you did, I imagine. A couple of phone calls.” Alice hung her head guiltily. “I’ve been such an idiot. Wasted a fortune on trying to restart my career.” The champagne, which had been so delicious, now tasted sour in her mouth. “Literary realignment,” she added bitterly. “On the contrary,” Nick said calmly. “I think it’s worked perfectly. Best investment you ever made. Apart from looking stunning and with a whole new lease of life about you, you are, I would say, completely literarily realigned.” His wife stared. “How do you work that out?” He tucked her arm into his and walked her back down the gold and white hallway. “Because, my darling, judging by your completely fascinating emails, you are clearly itching to write a novel about Catherine the Great.” “Am I?” Alice asked in surprise before realising that she was, she absolutely was. She could hardly wait to start, in fact. “And there’s plenty more in St. Petersburg where she came from. And so a toast,” Nick went on, clinking her glass, “to a brilliant new career in historical fiction. To Alice the Great!” Wendy Holden’s latest novel is Last of the Summer Moet, published by Head of Zeus, £7.99, and available to buy now
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CITY GUIDES Our destinations and shore excursions are at the centre of every Viking cruise. We’re always on the lookout for new experiences, and these travel guides are packed with local tips to inspire your next adventure
Page 68 Toyko From neon-lit streets to ancient temples, prepare for exciting new experiences
Page 70 Berlin A world-reowned art scene and layered history make this city a fascinating visit
Page 72 Český Krumlov History, food and culture pack a punch in this hidden gem
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Tokyo Tokyo’s neon skyscrapers, serene temples, ancient alleyways, and thriving markets offer visitors an unrivalled whirlwind of both familiar and very foreign attractions
I
t’s true that if you’ve spent 24 hours in Tokyo and aren’t feeling a little lost, you’re probably not doing it right. There’s not only the nonstop business district, with its hyperactive towers, buzzy karaoke bars, and around-the-clock work ethic, there’s also hundreds of temples, secret water gardens, and winding alleys. While the language barrier can be frustrating, it also adds to the experience, kick-starting unexpected interactions and forcing spontaneity. For a skyscraper fix, Park Hyatt Tokyo boasts the city’s most famous view (thanks to Coppola’s Lost in Translation), and if that’s not enough, the Tokyo Skytree is the world’s tallest broadcasting tower and has a viewing platform at the top. Akihabara, also known as Electric Town, is the most-visited shopping district thanks to its ‘animal’ cafes, manga shops, and electrical stalls. With so much shopping on offer, museums often get overlooked, but Tokyo National Museum is worth a few hours
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at least; it holds Japan’s largest collection of art and artefacts. There is plenty of calm to be found in Toyko, too. Head to the colourful district of Asakusa, home to the city’s oldest Buddhist temple, Sensō-Ji, and traditional stalls along Nakamise street. A little way up the Kanda River, the French Quarter, Kagurazaka, is home to cobbled-streets, Zen gardens and quaint shops and cafés. In spring, Shinjuku Gyoen’s cherry blossoms are a must-see, but other parks, like Imperial Palace Gardens, offer year-round tranquillity.
Don’t miss
•Tsukiji fish market gets inundated
with tourists, but remains authentic. It’s worth getting up early to earn the 120 or so spots available to watch the tuna auction and then linger for a sushi breakfast. •The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, known as Tocho in Japanese, has a free observation deck on its 45th floor with panoramic views. On a clear day, you can see as far as Mount Fuji. •Golden Gai in Shinjuku is a collection of wooden buildings that house tiny, closet-like bars seating just 10-12 people at one time. English signs indicate whether they welcome tourists. •Meiji-jingū is Tokyo’s grandest Shintō shrine and although rebuilt after being destroyed in WWII, remains incredibly atmospheric. Accessed via a winding path and surrounded by forested grounds
Fast Facts Famed for its 'animal' cafés, originating with cats, now a wide range of domestic pets and tamed animals (including snakes and owls) can be observed up close. Despite the 13-millionplus population, street crime is almost nonexistent in Tokyo.
with over 120,000 trees, it’s hard to believe you’re still in the city. • Shibuya Crossing is the best place to get a sense of Tokyo’s overwhelming and pulsating population – it’s said to be the busiest intersection in the world.
Eating & Drinking
Whether you fancy a bank-busting steak of world-renowned Kobe beef or loading up on convenientstore sushi at a konbini (corner shop), Tokyo’s food scene is full of unexpected delights for even the best-travelled taste buds. MATSUYA DEPARTMENT STORE £
Tokyo has the world’s highest volume of Michelin stars.
A two-level food hall in the basement of this modern department store offers dozens of kiosks selling everything from Japanese cheese to bizarre-flavoured ice lollies. Free samples mean browsing alone is a filling experience.
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T R AV E L
Clockwise, from this image: The brights lights of Toyko; Sensoji Temple at night in Asakusa
SUSHI DOKORO SHO ££££
Head downtown and grab a stool at the small, but perfectly formed Sushi Dokoro Sho in Yotsuya. With fresh ingredients from Tsukiji Market, order the bara chirashi, available only to 20 diners each day.
Insider Tips
MENYA ITTO ££
This unassuming little restaurant has been voted time and again as Tokyo’s best ramen joint. Meatballs are made in-house, ramen is fish brothbased, and the charsiu (pork slices) are infamous. Be prepared to queue!
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY
HAJIMEYA £
Tokyo’s ‘Yakitori Alleyways’ are a good bet for a cheap and cheerful dinner, but if you’d rather enjoy the city’s much-loved chicken skewers in calmer environs, then head to Hajimeya in Shinjuku. A variety of skewers are served alongside noodle bowls and veggie sides.
ROWING BOATS
RARE WHISKY
FUTURISTIC FASHION
are available in Kagurazaka to admire the district from the water. During springtime the riverside is lined with cherry trees in full bloom. Prices start from 600yen for 30 minutes.
is plentiful at dimly lit Zoetrope bar, which is also filled with cinematic memorabilia. With over 300 varieties on offer, whisky aficionados will relish the opportunity to try rare blends.
is on show throughout the buzzing Harajuku district. Known for its colourful street art and fashion scene, this is an energetic area filled with quirky vintage shops, trendy cafés and very cool kids.
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Berlin Since the two halves of this sprawling city were reunited 30 years ago, it has cultivated a reputation as Europe’s most creative, party-loving and cultured capital
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entral to Europe both geographically and historically, Berlin doesn’t shy away from its heady history. Instead, the past is interpreted and reinterpreted through ideas, architecture and art at almost every turn. From Check Point Charlie and the Holocaust Memorial to the Prussian Berlin Palace and the 13th-century remnants at Museum Island, there’s no shortage of cultural flashpoints. It’s worth looking out for subtler details, too: brass memorial cobblestones known as ‘Stolperstein’, East Side Gallery’s ‘Brother Kiss’, and the surviving love of currywurst. Art isn’t restricted to formal galleries; check out Soviet-era Modernist architecture at Capitain Petzel and sprawling installations in KINDL. Independent shops, cafés, and designers thrive throughout the city. Head to Mitte for bespoke stationery at RSVP and knitwear at Claudia Skoda, Kollwitzplatz for farmer’s markets and crafts, and Kreuzberg’s Markthalle Neun for
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hearty lunches washed down with biodynamic wines. Berlin has as much greenery as it does grit; parks and waterways are a wonderful gateway to the city’s laidback vibe. Although Tiergarten’s woodlands, Kreuzberg’s canal-side walkways, and Körnerpark’s NeoBaroque gardens are beautiful yearround, Berlin’s green spaces come to life during the summer. Stock up with a picnic and meander between free Tai Chi in Viktoriapark, take a dip in the pool at Columbiabad, and charter a motorboat at Müggelsee to explore Little Venice.
Don’t miss
•Cycling, running or strolling
through Tiergarten — Berlin’s sprawling woodland wilderness in the heart of the city. Refuel at Café am Neuen See where wholesome food is dished up in a cosy cabin. •The Reichstag’s impressive glass dome was designed to create a sense of political transparency and in doing so offers visitors spectacular views of the city. Admission is free, but you need to register in advance. •Berlin is flooded with fascinating museums (there are 200 in total). If time is limited, head to the tip of Spree Island where a unique collection of museums, known as Museumsinsel, have UNESCO World Heritage status. •Stroll along East Side Gallery, the longest remaining section of the Berlin Wall that is now an open-air gallery dedicated to global peace. Delve deeper into The
Fast Facts Over 44% of Berlin is made up of waterways, woods, rivers, and greenery. Berlin is nine times the size of Paris but with only a 1/5 of the population. With around 1,700, Berlin has more bridges than Venice.
Wall’s history and significance at the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial). •Kreuzberg’s Turkish Market is one of the city’s most colourful and meanders along a pretty canal — the surrounding streets, like Graefestraße, are home to independent coffee shops and boutiques by day and lively student joints by night.
Eating & Drinking
In a city where independent venues thrive, some of the most rewarding meals are those stumbled upon. If, however, you like to have a plan, here are a few that stand out: CODA DESSERT BAR £££
Designed to fuel minds and bodies for Berlin’s untamed nightlife, the city’s first dessert restaurant serves a six-course tasting menu of light desserts paired with cocktails – a great way to sample edgy Neukölln.
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T R AV E L
Clockwise, from this image: Brandenberg Gate; a street in Brunnenstrasse, Mitte district
WAGNER ££
Exploring a converted 1920s' power station on the banks of Kreuzberg’s canal is reason alone to pop into Wagner, where renowned restauranteur Ramses Manneck delivers exceptional bistro-style food.
Insider Tips
COOKIES CREAM ££
Vegetarian or not, it’s worth sampling just how tasty a meat-free meal can be at this Michelin star, loft-style restaurant. Only in Berlin do concoctions like beetroot gnocchi and Parmesan dumplings pre-empt dancing til dawn.
PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY
MARJELLCHEN ££
Old-world Germany seeps out of the walls as much as it does the classic dishes at this atmospheric institution. Huge plates of Bartsch (beetroot soup) and meatballs paired with dumplings are washed down with traditional German wines.
ABANDONED AIRPORT Former Tempelhof airport is one of Berlin’s most-loved public parks with a six-kilometre cycling, running, and skating track, urban allotments, and BBQ area.
REFUGEE TOURS
PARK KARAOKE
A walk led by Syrian guides, the Refugee Voices Tour ‘Why we are here’ draws parallels between Berlin’s chequered past and the reality for today’s refugees and their wartorn countries.
Every Sunday throughout the summer, Mauerpark hosts a huge sing-along karaoke session, Bearpit Karaoke. Expect lots of atmosphere and a friendly crowd. Also look out for the year-round flea market.
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Clockwise, from this image: The sun sets over the historic southern Czech Repulic town; the fairy-tale castle bell tower
Český Krumlov Not quite a city, this lesser-known medieval town in the Czech Republic is home to some of Europe’s most carefully preserved Renaissance architecture
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here aren’t many places in Europe where Renaissance, Baroque and medieval town planning remains perfectly intact, but thanks to over 500 years of peace, this sleepy Czech town is one of them (and has the UNESCO World Heritage Site stamp of approval to prove it). Baroque facades and vaulted ceilings tower over narrow alleyways that wind down towards the meandering Vltava River. A 13th-century castle looks down on the town from a dramatic rocky outcrop, and Gothic church spires punctuate distant views of green, rolling hills. Get your first fairy-tale view from the top of the castle bell tower. The castle complex itself is vast; the interior is only available via a guided tour, but the grounds and gardens are free to visit, and a small museum is helpful for historical context. Back in town, it’s possible to walk from one side to the other in just 30 minutes – pack robust shoes for the uneven
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cobbles. From Budějovická Gate walk the length of Latrán to the town square, Náměstí Svornosti, and across the bridge to the Barbakán. Český Krumlov packs a punch when it comes to food and culture. In July and August, live music events draw a younger Czech crowd into the town, and the riverbanks are filled with picnics and family gatherings. Beer lovers should head to the local Eggenberg Brewery for a tour and tasting session, and those with a penchant for the darker side of life might enjoy a nail-biting visit to the Torture Museum.
Don’t miss
•You can’t miss the 13th-century
Český Krumlov Castle that towers above the town and is the second largest castle in the Czech Republic. If you do just one thing, climb the bell tower for the best views in town. •Maleček Boat Rentals offer a few pleasant ways to see the sights of town from the water. They also run a boat service to nearby Zlatá Koruna, a beautiful monastery hidden among ancient oak trees. •Feeling energectic? Hike or bike to the top of the region’s highest point, Klet', along trails that start in town. The 360-degree views of South Bohemia are worth the sweat. •Bears have occupied the castle moat since 1707, and can still be seen there today in a recently spruced up enclosure. •The Regional Museum has an extensive collection of Bohemian antiques, fossils, and a delicately
Fast Facts Sweet treats are laid out for the bears by children every Christmas Eve. The Hollywood movies Inception and Hostel were filmed in Český Krumlov. The castle’s tiny theatre still uses the original 1680s' equipment and machinery.
painted ceramic scale model of Český Krumlov in the early 19th century featuring over 800 of the town’s intricate structures.
Eating & Drinking
Dining in Český Krumlov revolves around hearty meals; meats grilled around open fires, plates loaded with dumplings, and Moravian wines straight from the barrel. But thanks to an influx of younger visitors attending music festivals in the town, there have recently been some vegetarian and lighter restaurants opening up. LE JARDIN £££
One of Český Krumlov’s mostloved restaurants is inside one of its most beautiful hotels, Hotel Bellevue. A mix of French and Czech cuisine is served up in a luxurious, candlelit setting. Perfectly romantic.
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T R AV E L
KRČMA U DWAU MARYÍ ££
PHOTOS: © THE TOWN OF CĔSKÝ KRUMLOV / PHOTOGRAPHER MGR. LUBOR MRÁZEK/ ALAMY
Settle down in this medieval building to indulge in the Old Bohemian Feast sharing plates of traditional Czech food.
Insider Tips
MLS CREPERIE £
These five creperies throughout town offer a great little pit stop for weary legs. Although Transylvanian rather than Czech, trdelník, a stickshaped cake dipped in walnut icing, is a popular sweet treat with locals. RESTAURANT KONVICE £££
In the summer Hotel Konvice’s pretty terrace has views over the town’s roofs and in the winter live music keeps everyone jolly. Expect classic dishes cooked to perfection. APOTHEKA CAFÉ BAR ££
This up-market, vintage pharmacythemed bar rustles up the best cocktails in town.
CASTLE MUSEUM
RIVER RAFTING
RENAISSANCE TIME
invites you to the times of the Lords of Krumlov, Rosenbergs and other noble houses residing in Český Krumlov over the centuries. Also check out the tiny cinema where you can see 20th-century films.
along the Vltava River is a wonderful way to let off steam after a day of sightseeing. From fast rapids to a more gentle journey, there are different options depending on how many thrills you are seeking.
Every June, the city celebrates the Renaissance period. The streets and squares are filled with the roar of knightly tournaments, historical crafts fairs, banquets and medieval music.
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C U LT U R E
Work of art
Paul Hervey-Brookes describes the moment he came face-to-face with his favourite painting on board a Viking ship akob Wiedemann has been a hero of mine for many years. I love paintings that move you and are full of emotion, not just in a pictorial sense, but also in a way that is captured in the energy of the brush strokes. Perhaps it is being a garden designer and preferring to use hand drawing (instead of using computer-aided design), but I love studying this aspect of a painting: how the medium is applied and the effect it has on the finish of a completed work. Jakob lost an eye during the Second World War and was told he would never be a great painter. But he went on to transform abstract painting in Scandinavia and his work has a real magic to it. I never imagined I would see a work in the flesh, let alone be able to trace the stroke of the palette knife with my own hands and try to imagine for a moment what Jakob was trying to express, until I discovered that a piece from his Nature Series (Impressions of Nature, left, with Paul) was on show on board a Viking ocean ship. As a result, the painting has inspired elements of my next design at this year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show. As he becomes rightly more wellknown, I may never own a piece myself, yet I have been able to find inspiration which I am excited to use within my own field of artistry. It has just the kind of balance and energy I like to build into my garden design projects. The excitement of seeing and experiencing this work – to me a masterpiece – will stay with me for many years.
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Extraordinary style Exceptional value Every Viking river and ocean cruise is a journey of discovery. Where your ship is the most beautiful boutique hotel, and the places you visit excite and delight in equal measure. Where you can share adventures and stories with newfound friends, and laugh and dance and taste the world in all its glory. And where everything you could wish for is included in the price.
2020 river cruises from ÂŁ1,195pp 2020 ocean cruises from ÂŁ1,940pp Call for our worldwide brochure: 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices and availability are correct at time of going to print but are subject to change. From price is based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom on Danube Waltz river cruise and Iberian Explorer ocean cruise, departing on selected dates in 2020. Single supplements apply. Prices valid until 31 March 2019. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.
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