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BEST 2020

Places to visit

CULINARY CORK

Home to three of Ireland’s Michelin starred restaurants

BELMOND GRAND HIBERNIAN

GALWAY’S BIG MOMENT

This year’s European Capital of Culture

Ireland’s most luxurious sleeper train

CÉAD MÍLE FÁILTE

THE WILDE WEST

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Celebrate St Patrick’s Day in Ireland’s lively pubs

Visit the rugged landscapes that inspired Ireland’s best writers CASTLES | WHISKEY & GUINNESS | ATTRACTIONS | GAME OF THRONES

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EDITOR’S WORD

W best of Irish travel, brought to you by the team behind Scotland magazine.

elcome to the third edition of Ireland’s Best, an annual that celebrates the very

Ireland is renowned for its lush landscapes that are home to natural wonders and ancient sites, which have inspired no end of myths, legends and folk tales that have been passed down through the generations. Storytelling is in the blood here and whether you want to join a tour where you can hear the secrets of the land by way of an expert guide (see page 89) or listen to tales as told through song in one of Ireland’s many fantastic music pubs (see page 104), we’re fairly sure you’ll remember your visit long after you’ve left. Over the next 116 pages, you can read about each of the main Irish provinces, from the Ancient East in Leinster (page 18), home to the capital, Dublin, to the raw beauty of Connacht (page 36) in the west, the pretty towns and villages of the southwest in Munster (page 28) and the wild pull of the north in Ulster (page 44).

We’ve also worked hard to bring you some of our favourite places to stay, visit and relax in our ‘best’ directory (starting on page 54) to take the stress out of planning your next trip. But before all that, turn to page 8 to read about why 2020 is the year you really must come to Ireland, where we’re waiting with open arms to welcome you. To borrow from an old Irish proverb, wherever you go and whatever you do, may the luck of the Irish be there with you.

Editor sally.coffey@chelseamagazines.com

SALLY COFFEY

Ireland’s Best 2020 3

BEST 2020 Ireland’s Best 2020 is published by the makers of Scotland magazine: 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ Tel: 020 7349 3700 Fax: 020 7349 3701 Email: info@scotlandmag.com www.scotlandmag.com

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4 Ireland’s Best 2020

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CONTENTS 6 CÉAD MÍLE FÀILTE

Tips and tricks for a smooth trip

8 GO NOW

Six reasons to visit Ireland in 2020

PROVINCES 16 MAP 18 LEINSTER

Whiskey, music and folklore are a merry match

28 MUNSTER

Fill up on fine-dining in County Cork

36 CONNACHT

The WB Yeats trail takes us in and around Sligo

44 ULSTER

The thrills of the Causeway Coast

DIRECTORY 54 MAP 56 ATTRACTIONS 66 CASTLES & COUNTRY HOUSES 76 DISTILLERIES 86 SHOPPING 89 TOURS & CRUISES 94 BEAUTY SPOTS 104 PUBS 110 PLACES TO STAY

Ireland’s Best 2020 5

CÉAD MÍLE FÁILTE Or, as we say in Ireland, a thousand million welcomes

First referred to as ‘the emerald isle’ in 1795 by Belfast-born poet William Drennan, the island of Ireland is now synonymous with this romantic vision of rolling hills and vales of green. In reality, it’s all this and more, with 32 counties and 10 characterful cities in “40 shades of green”. Of course, its natural landmarks are especially impressive, from the Wild Atlantic Way on the west, which showcases the foaming seas and staggering cliffs of Ireland’s unspoilt coastal communities, to Ireland’s Ancient East, which combines craggy mountain peaks with unmissable castles and fairy forts, all on Dublin’s doorstep.

The island of Ireland is also known as ‘the land of saints and scholars’ and like the Celtic missionaries that earned their home this adage, their descendants too have the gift of the gab. Indeed, Freud is known to have said that the Irish are the only race “impervious to psychoanalysis”: you can keep asking questions, but don’t expect any straight answers. Following in the footsteps of George Bernard Shaw, James Joyce and Oscar Wilde, the stories brought to life by the folk singers, tour guides or just your average Irish pub punter are the lifeblood of the place. From the mighty giants to the chipper leprechauns, here you can let your imagination run wild and sink into the past, without relinquishing your hold on the excitement and drama of the modern moment.

A thousand million 6 Ireland’s Best 2020

ON TOUR PRACTICALITIES

GETTING HERE

GETTING AROUND

CURRENCY

Hop on a bus, coach, train or ferry to take in the sights along your journey and meet the locals. The National Journey Planner is your go-to resource for planning routes and comparing options. It covers the whole island and is available in app-form. Dublin Bus is the main public transport provider for the Greater Dublin Area. journeyplanner.transportforireland.ie www.dublinbus.ie

There are two currencies in use on the island of Ireland, and it pays to be prepared. In the Republic of Ireland, the official currency is the euro, whereas in Northern Ireland, pound sterling is the local currency. Visa and Mastercard are widely accepted throughout the whole of Ireland; American Express less so. Travellers’ cheques are no longer accepted.

INFORMATION Tourism Ireland is the one-stop-shop for all your holiday planning. Routes, tours and trip ideas, places to stay and things to do can all be browsed on its comprehensive website. Accessible Ireland has compiled a list of accommodation options that offer disabled facilities. ireland.com accessibleireland.com

welcomes

You can fly direct to Ireland from many European cities and regional airports, as well as North America. Aer Lingus offers direct flights to Dublin from Boston, New York, Chicago, LA and Philadelphia. Ferries depart from Holyhead, Pembroke and Fishguard in Wales, as well as Birkenhead and Liverpool in England, and some ports on mainland Europe. Ferries arrive into Belfast, Dublin, Cork, Rosslare, Ballycastle and Larne. aerlingus.com

Ireland’s Best 2020 7

GO NOW Don’t put your trip off any longer, here are six reasons you should visit Ireland in 2020

GALWAY’S SAVAGE BEAUTY

8 Ireland’s Best 2020

THE FANTASY LAND OF BELFAST

FOLK MUSIC AND PUBS

ON TOUR REASONS TO VISIT

LITERATURE CENTRAL

BLOOMSDAY IN DUBLIN

SPOOKY DERRY

Irelandâ€™s Best 2020 9

10 Ireland’s Best 2020

GREAT GALWAY

Dublin and Cork have already had their turn as European Capital of Culture, now 2020 belongs to Galway. The smallest of Ireland’s major cities, it already has an outsized reputation for cultural vitality, drawing on folk music and storytelling traditions that extend deep into local tribal history and across the surrounding Gaeltacht region of native Irish speakers. A year-long programme of events has been duly designed to shine a light on this gateway to Ireland’s wild west. Quite literally, in the case of Kari Kola’s Savage Beauty installation, which will see the Finnish light artist use his technical sorcery to make the Connemara landscape glow green around St Patrick’s Day in March. Other highlights will include scenes from the ancient epic Gilgamesh staged indoors

and out throughout spring and summer, an autumn ‘fire garden’ created by French street performers Cie Carabosse, and a neo-Pagan celebration called ‘Otherworld’ to mark the start of winter and the turn of the ancient Celtic new year. Live music sessions and literary readings provide constant diversions between the higher-profile fixtures, while the Áit ab Áil Liom digital audio map allows visitors to explore the surrounding countryside with indigenous songs and stories ringing in their ears. galway2020.ie

ON TOUR REASONS TO VISIT

2 2

WESTEROS COMES HOME

HBO’s long-running megahit fantasy TV show Game of Thrones ended in a storm of ice and fire in spring 2019, as the mythical world of Westeros saw many of its major cities and castles destroyed by frozen zombie armies and flamespewing dragons. Some sets have now been rebuilt however, to decorate the lavish new Game of Thrones Legacy Site at the Linen Mills in Banbridge, just south of Belfast. Much of Game of Thrones was shot on the adjoining backlot, while some of its most iconic locations are dotted across the Ulster landscape, from the so-called ‘King’s Road’ through the Dark Hedges of County Antrim to the ‘Dothraki Grasslands’ of

Shillanavogy Valley. These are the exteriors that have helped transform the profile and popularity of Northern Ireland as a tourist destination while the show was on air, but now the Linen Mills studio tour is expected to be a real focal point for even casual fans of the series. Opening in spring 2020, the studio will occupy 110,000 square feet of atmospheric floorspace that was once home to parts of Winterfell and Castle Black. It will walk visitors through armouries of prop weapons, costumes and artwork, and interactive tech exhibits breaking down the effects and choreography behind major battle scenes. linenmillstudios.com Ireland’s Best 2020 11

In 2020 the world’s biggest celebration of traditional Irish music and dance, Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann (more commonly known as ‘the All-Ireland Fleadh’), returns to its roots, in the market town of Mullingar, County Westmeath, where the event was originally founded back in 1951. Some half a million visitors descend upon whatever corner of Ireland is chosen to host the festival on any given year, but this summer’s Fleadh promises to be something special, an occasion officially heralded as ‘The Homecoming’ and packed into a week of concerts, pub sessions, and informal street performances. Organisers are putting particular emphasis on the latter as the best expression of what they consider the essential ‘Fleadhanna spirit’, and the

central Town Park will be set aside for impromptu and unamplified performances by folk players, céilí troupes, comedians, and magicians. On top of all that colour and culture, it’s an invitation that practically sings to the aficionados and first timers alike, drawing them across the farmlands of County Westmeath to the green and beating heart of Ireland itself. fleadhcheoil.ie

FLOCK TO THE FLEADH

ON TOUR REASONS TO VISIT

WORLD OF WORDS

Ireland has not exactly undersold its extraordinary legacy of written culture. Dublin in particular is scattered with institutions honouring the nation’s great poets, novelists and playwrights, no fewer than four of whom won the Nobel Prize for Literature: WB Yeats, George Bernard Shaw, Samuel Beckett and Seamus Heaney. As recently as last year, however, there was no single dedicated space for introducing visitors to the cosmos of Irish books and authors, until the Museum of Literature, or MoLI, opened in September 2019. Custom-fitted within Newman House – a gorgeous 18th-century Georgian mansion on the edge of St Stephen’s Green, and the original home of University College Dublin – its collection draws the college’s

extensive archives together with those of the National Library. That setting may be quaint and stately right down to its central courtyard garden, but the installations tend toward the high-tech, including an audio-visual primer called ‘A Riverrun of Language’, which traces Irish writing back to ancient, oral storytelling via recorded readings and projections. Interactive displays surround precious analogue objects like handwritten letters between luminaries like Joyce and Yeats. Rooms have been set aside for temporary exhibits, and an on-site digital station, Radio MoLI, invites expert guests in to broadcast their love of Irish literature around the world, 24/7. moli.ie

“Youth is wasted on the young” George Bernard Shaw

RE-JOYCE FOR BLOOMSDAY

This year marks a centenary of sorts for James Joyce’s classic-modernist novel Ulysses. Now considered a defining work of Irish literature, and an immortal portrait of Dublin city, it was first serialised in the American journal The Little Review from 1918 to 1920. The publishers were prosecuted for obscenity and every copy was removed from circulation, but 100 years later it is widely considered more shameful not to have read that book, though even its keenest evangelists will admit that it remains a tough sell. Bloomsday provides an annual excuse to have fun with a difficult text, as Dublin celebrates Joyce and his work around the date the book is set – 11-16 June 2020 – with citywide parties, readings, walking tours and pub crawls. The scale of the event has inflated in recent years to become a kind of literary St Patrick’s Day, with citizens dressed in

Joycean-Edwardian costume drinking Ulysses-themed cocktails and eating foods enjoyed by its wandering hero Leopold Bloom on his path through the city and the novel (think offal-heavy dishes like giblet soup and fried liver in breadcrumbs). Related events now take place several days in advance across multiple locations, from the James Joyce Tower and Museum at the author’s fort-like former residence at Sandycove to the sombre tombs of Glasnevin Cemetery, where the Hades chapter is set. bloomsdayfestival.ie Ireland’s Best 2020 13

The US may have rather taken over when it comes to Halloween celebrations over the last century or so, by way of carved pumpkins, costume parties and horror movies, but the annual festival has its origins in Ireland, where it has been celebrated in some form or other for over 2000 years. The ancient Celtic festival of Samhain marked the end of harvest time and the start of the long cold winter, when the border between the physical and spirit worlds was said to become passable, and the souls of the dead could return to Earth for one day only. The night before was occasion for ceremonial bonfires, ritual sacrifices, the wearing of animal masks and the telling of fortunes. The modern

Irish Halloween is considerably less bloody and druidical, but certain city councils and community organisers still give their hometown festivities all the fiery, witchy oomph they can muster. Derry in particular is now known as the best place in the world to spend Samhain, the low-key parties of the 1980s having ballooned into a massive four-day event (28 Oct-1 Nov 2020) in and around the 17th-century walls of the so-called ‘city of bones’. The main draw is a monumental torchlit carnival with a pleasingly grassroots feel, as local kids, musicians, artists and theatre troupes are all actively involved in the costumes, props, and parade floats for maximum inclusive spookiness. derryhalloween.com

THE BEST HALLOWEEN PARTY ON THE PLANET

14 Ireland’s Best 2020

IRELANDâ€™S BEST

ON TOUR PROVINCES

THE FAB FOUR In Ireland there are four main regions, which you’ll read a lot more about over the next few pages. Here’s a little taster of what you will find where

Lorem ipsum Ulster

Connacht

CONNACHT

LLR Leinster

Munster

hough historically there were more – the Irish word for ‘Provinces’, ‘Cúige’, means ‘fifth part’ and there were even more in medieval times – since the 17th century there have been four provinces in Ireland: Leinster, Munster, Connacht and Ulster. These four main territorial areas were permanently set during the reign of King James I (VI) and though they serve little political purpose today, it’s a useful way of breaking up the country into more manageable areas when planning your trip. Leinster (page 18), in the east, is home to Ireland’s capital, Dublin, as well as the Garden of Ireland, Wicklow, and many of the prehistoric sites that lead to it being referred to as the Ancient East.

PROVINCES

LEINSTER

MUNSTER

In Munster (page 28), in the southwest, you’ll find the counties of Cork and Kerry, home to some of the most scenic spots in the whole of Ireland, including the Ring of Kerry and pretty towns and villages such as Dingle and Kinsale. Connacht (page 36) in the west, is home to the vibrant city of Galway (this year’s European Capital of Culture), as well as the wilds of the west coast and the Aran Islands. And finally, Ulster (page 44), in the north encompasses the six counties of Northern Ireland as well as Donegal, Cavan and Monaghan, and two of Ireland’s most lively cities: Belfast and Derry. Each spectacular in their own right, which province will you choose?

PROVINCES

CONNACHT

ULSTER Ireland’s Best 2020 17

LEINSTER

PROVINCES

WHISKEY, MUSIC & FOLKLORE Words by Stephen Phelan

n a pub dating back to the Middle Ages, in a part of Dublin built over the bones of early Viking settlers, Johnny Daly is telling stories even older than the city itself. The tale of Balor, for example, a mythical giant and tyrant with a single evil eye that destroyed whatever, or whomever, it glared at. He was finally killed, as prophesied, by his own grandson Lugh, who blasted the eye out the back of his head with a slingshot, thus turning its dreadful power against Balor’s rearward army of Fomorians. Perhaps a metaphor for a crop-destroying drought or blight, that legend has been passed down from the ancient tribes of Laen-Tir, or Leinster, as this eastern province of Ireland is now known. Daly traces his own bloodline to the bards and poets, or seanchaí, who recorded and transmitted the culture of those bygone Celts by way of mouth and memory. Seven nights a week (two in January and February) his Irish Folk Tours occupy a back room at The Brazen Head. It’s Dublin’s oldest pub, supposedly established in 1198, though the tour will soon move to a bigger home base at O’Shea’s on Talbot Street. Daly and team draw capacity crowds of 50 or so, the majority

PROVINCES LEINSTER

Scotland’s Ireland’s Best 2020 19

PROVINCES LEINSTER

can put the listener “They into a kind of trance. This is the oldest form of entertainment, and it triggers quite primal emotions

”

20 Ireland’s Best 2020

of them visiting Irish-Americans, to hear their ancestors’ fables put into context. Between tales, Daly explains how fairy lore and underworld beliefs prevailed so long here at the far edge of Europe because the Christian church arrived so late. “I think a lot of people come to Ireland looking for something mystical, which can actually be quite hard to find,” he says. “But it’s still there in the stories. They can put the listener into a kind of trance. This is the oldest form of entertainment, and it triggers quite primal emotions.” We Irish seem to have inherited a particular knack for it, says Daly. “Go to any pub, and you’ll see and hear it all around you. All of us are storytellers, it’s ingrained in us.” And speaking of grain, we also know that a little whiskey can make those stories easier to swallow. This very area, The Liberties, used to form a so-called ‘Golden Triangle’ of 19th-century whiskey companies. They’re all gone now, even Jamesons, which has long since moved to far-off Cork, though its old Bow Street plant, just across the River Liffey, remains a popular tourist attraction. But new distilleries have been popping up around here lately, the flashiest being Roe & Co, a whiskey-making annex of the incredibly popular Guinness Storehouse at St James’s Gate. Just up the street, inside the former St James’s Church, a couple of copper pot stills were recently installed beneath the stained glass windows by Doctor Pearse Lyons, an actual professor of yeast and fermentation. Lyons picked a distinctive site to produce a small-batch boutique whiskey – a Victorian-era gothic chapel on a medieval burial site. Nine of his own relatives, including his great-great-grandfather, had been laid to rest in the adjoining graveyard, along with prominent barrister and politician Sir Toby Butler, British war hero John Lucas, and celebrated local brothel-keeper Peg Plunkett. Then Lyons himself died in 2018, just as his new distillery was opening to the public.

PREVIOUS PAGE: Jamesons in Dublin has been replaced by newer distilleries THIS PAGE, FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Ha’penny Bridge over the River Liffey in Dublin; Irish Folk Tours regale their audience with old folk tales

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes Guided Factory Tours Daily

C: +353 (0) 51 317000 E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com W: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

CLOCKWISE, FROM RIGHT: The famous Temple Bar district in Dublin; Johnnie Fox’s, the highest pub in Ireland; an evening of food, folklore and music thanks to Irish Folk Tours

“This was his dream,” says general manager Tracey Flinter of her late boss. “And nothing was impossible with Pearse.” He was, she says, a natural storyteller, and envisioned the place as “part of a narrative.” So, he hired traditional seanchaí to give tours of the facility, that would say as much about the history of these grounds, and the lives of those characters lying beneath, as about the maturation process going on in the brewhouse. The resulting range of whiskies, from a five-year-old blend to a 12-year-old Founder’s Choice single malt, are available at select hostelries nearby, like The Brazen Head, and a few further outside the Dublin city pub circuit. The province of Leinster ranges way beyond the capital, of course, and deep into the Irish countryside. Out there are pubs in small towns and hillside villages, in isolated valley farmhouses and waterfront fishing huts. Shane O’Donoghue, the owner and operator of Rural Pub Tours, has literally made it his business to show visitors some of his favourites. He loads them into a minibus and drives way out of town, into neighbouring County Wicklow, to act as designated driver while they drink, eat, and sometimes even dance at venues like Johnnie Fox’s. Claimed to be the highest pub in Ireland, Johnnie Fox’s is a sprawling thatched cottage on the flank of Two Rock Mountain, where a casual bystander may be hauled onstage to join the professional Irish folk dancers who perform their Hooley Nights amid two centuries of accumulated clutter: old tractor parts, dented vintage signage, the ashes of an Irish-American whose dying wish was to be interred within these walls. Over the sound of fiddles and flying feet, Shane encourages his customers to mingle among the regulars, to share jokes and tell amusing lies about themselves. “You’ll meet the friendliest, nosiest people in the world here,” he says. “And you’ll probably never see them again.” En route to the next stop, over 200-year-old military roads built by the British Army to help them hunt rebels in these hills, Shane explains that “business is not what it was.” The rural bar trade in particular has been impacted by the smoking ban, rising excise taxes on alcohol, and a general 22 Ireland’s Best 2020

PROVINCES LEINSTER

“

You’ll meet the friendliest, nosiest people in the world here. And you’ll probably never see them again

”

PROVINCES LEINSTER

decline in pub-going as an organising principle of Irish social life. The survivors have adapted to the times, says Donal Cawley, co-owner and manager of The Merry Ploughboy. The pub is named after Cawley’s veteran folk band, who bought the place about 13 years ago, though the pub itself has been serving whiskey since before it ever hung a sign or held a license, having begun life as a shebeen – or illegal drinking den – in the late 18th century. After closing for a while in the early 21st century, it has been revived by good music and a decent menu. “Food sells twice as much as drink these days,” says Cawley, and the dinner show upstairs draws 200 people a night to hear his band play classic native street songs and pastoral ballads while feasting on Galway Bay oysters and Slaney Valley lamb. “Tourists get to experience a real, authentic Irish pub, and locals get to meet people from all over the place. It’s a good balance.” Some visitors, of course, won’t be satisfied until they’ve had a mystical encounter in this country. There’s a pub for that too, out in Carlingford, County Louth. The Anchor Bar is better known as PJ’s, after late owner PJ O’Hare. In 1989, O’Hare found the suit and bones of a leprechaun at Slate Rock, high above the town, and put them on display in the pub, where they remain today. Regular customer Kevin Woods, an old friend of PJ’s, was inspired to investigate, and met several living leprechauns in the nearby Cooley Mountains. Only 236 of those little

CLOCKWISE, FROM RIGHT: Glendalough Lake in County Wicklow; the leprechauns have official protected status from the European Union; musicians at The Merry Ploughboy Pub

Food sells twice as “ much as drink these days;

the dinner show upstairs draws 200 people a night, who come to hear native street songs and pastoral ballads as they feast on Galway Bay oysters and Slaney Valley lamb

”

people remain in Ireland, says Woods who calls himself ‘the leprechaun whisperer’. He runs tours of the nearby Leprechaun and Fairy Cavern, and organises the annual Carlingford National Leprechaun Hunt every May. He has also secured official protected status for those remaining leprechauns from the European Union. They’ll be ok, he says, as long as 236 people still believe that they exist. “If that number fell to 200, say, then 36 of those leprechauns would die.” For those who doubt that the legends are real, Woods and his leprechauns may be living proof. “You can choose to believe it or not,” he says. “I see and speak to them, so it’s easier for me.”

You can choose “ to believe it or not,” he says. “I see and speak to them, so it’s easier for me

”

Ireland’s Best 2020 25

PROVINCES LEINSTER

PLAN YOUR VISIT Your guide to Leinster

THE BRAZEN HEAD, DUBLIN

Ireland’s oldest pub has live music nightly from 9.30pm and an afternoon session on Sundays from 3.30pm. brazenhead.com IRISH FOLK TOURS, DUBLIN

THE MERRY PLOUGHBOY PUB, RATHFARNHAM

At the foot of the Dublin Mountains, this is the place to come for a lively night of music and dancing. mpbpub.com

These tours are held twice weekly in January and February and daily through the rest of the year and from 2020 will include dinner and storytelling at Dublin institution O’Sheas.

PJ O’HARE’S PUB, CARLINGFORD

osheasoftalbotstreet.com irishfolktours.com

LEPRECHAUN AND FAIRY CAVE, COUNTY LOUTH

PEARSE LYONS DISTILLERY, DUBLIN

Various tours and tastings, priced from €20 to €30, take place in this boutique distillery in the restored St James’ Church.

A long way from Dublin, this pub in County Louth is famous for its unique display of leprechaun bones. pjoharescarlingford.com

If you have an open mind then let yourself be swept away with the unbelievable tales told on these tours. thelastleprechaunsofireland.com

pearselyonsdistillery.com RURAL PUB TOURS

ruraltours.ie JOHNNIE FOX’S PUB, GLENCULLEN

Poised on Dublin’s mountains, this is as traditional an Irish pub as you could hope to find. johnniefoxs.com

26 Ireland’s Best 2020

LEINSTER at a glance AREA 19,798 sq km COUNTIES 12 POPULATION 2.6 million LARGEST TOWNS/CITIES

Bray, Drogheda, Dublin, Dundalk, Swords RIVERS Barrow, Boyne, Liffey, Shannon HIGHEST POINT Lugnaquilla Mountain, 925m

Venture a little further from the capital with these afternoon, evening and full day pub tours, priced from €35 to €59.

The Patrick Donald Photography Gallery is centrally located along side rafton treet in the center of historic ublin. We offer a wide selection of framed and unframed Irish landscape images that typify the essence of what Ireland boasts in terms of iconic scenery. The Patrick onald collection is a unique insight into how abundant varied the small island of Ireland is. riginals of his work can be ordered shipped from his website, or if you are in town we would be delighted to show you around the gallery, please mention I .

MUNSTER

PROVINCES

CORK’S FINE-DINING TRAIL The southwest province of Munster is home to no fewer than three Michelin starred restaurants, making the most of the region’s natural larder

Words by Sinéad Smyth

ravel southwest from Ireland’s capital city of Dublin and you’ll find yourself in County Cork. As the largest county in Ireland, it is often referred to by locals as the ‘real capital’. Situated in the province of Munster, Cork is also part of the Wild Atlantic Way, a 2,500km route of rugged coastline that spans the length of the west of Ireland to Donegal in the north. Cork city, the capital of the county, is a vibrant place, full of shops, bars and

28 Ireland’s Best 2020

restaurants – the melodic sing-song of the Cork accent fills the air, and the people are jovial and friendly. However, journey west of the city centre and you will reach the wilds of West Cork. There’s something special about this region. Parts are extremely remote, and feel totally removed from the buzzing city. The west of Ireland is renowned for its natural beauty, attracting visitors from across the globe. West Cork in particular is home to a large number of expats who have felt its pull.

PROVINCES MUNSTER

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The area is home to a rich food culture, which in recent years has become a huge draw for tourists and locals alike. Visit in September and you can attend the A Taste of West Cork Food Festival, an annual food event that showcases the region’s stellar food. There are currently three Michelin starred restaurants in County Cork and you can visit them all on one stunning fine-dining trail. First up, there is Ichigo Ichie, located in Cork city itself. The self-described “Japanese haute cuisine” at Ichigo Ichie has provided Ireland with its first ever Michelin star for Asian cooking. With the name Ichigo Ichie meaning ‘once in a lifetime’, the restaurant certainly lives up to its name. The zen-like dining room seats just 25 guests, adding an air of exclusivity to the space. Chef patron Takashi Miyazaki once worked in an Irish bar in Hiroshima, whipping up cottage pie and typical Irish dishes. A far cry from the elegant Japanese cuisine he is renowned for now. The relaxed ambience complements the delicate and well-thought out flavours of the food. Book a seat at the chef’s counter and see Miyazaki up close and personal as he serves his multi-course Japanese meal.

30 Ireland’s Best 2020

PREVIOUS PAGE: Kinsale harbour in County Cork CLOCKWISE, FROM BOTTOM LEFT: Chef Takashi Miyazaki of Ichigo Ichie; Japanese haute cuisine is cooked up at Ichigo Ichie; the English Market, Cork

Â© TIM THOMPSON/TOURISM IRELAND

PROVINCES MUNSTER

colourful town “The of Kinsale, just 25km south of Cork, is renowned for its food scene, and like most coastal towns it has incredible seafood

”

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Following your fine-dining Japanese feast take a short spin to your next destination, the coastal town of Kinsale, just 25km south of Cork. Certainly one of west Cork’s prettiest towns, Kinsale is recognisable by its colourful shop fronts and bustling harbour. Translated from Irish, the name Kinsale means ‘Head of the Sea’, so it should come as little surprise that this fishing town is highly regarded for its fabulous seafood. When you want a seafood spread, Fishy Fishy on Crowley’s Quay is the place to be. The restaurant is run by Martin and Marie Shanahan, who started out with a fish shop and deli, which regularly had queues out the door. The shop’s popularity led to the pair opening up the restaurant and they’ve been racking up the awards ever since. As the restaurant’s head chef, Martin is super passionate about using the freshest fish available, and his

background as a fishmonger gives him a distinct advantage when picking the best local produce – he knows all the fishermen by name. During the summer, book yourself a table outside and enjoy alfresco dining. Most foodies visiting Kinsale, however, make a beeline for Bastion, a small towncentre restaurant that was awarded its first Michelin star in 2019 and which is renowned for its delectable modern Irish cuisine. Bastion’s chef proprietor Paul McDonald is a Scotsman who, like many others in the area, has succumbed to the charms of west Cork. Along with his partner Helen Noonan, who manages the front of house, McDonald offers tasting menus filled with local produce. The cooking has flashes of French flair, with dishes parading the best Irish ingredients, such as lamb (one of Paul’s favourites) and heavenly breads and butters.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Kinsale town; Kinsale, County Cork; chef Paul McDonald of Bastion; Bastion restaurant offers an eight-course tasting menu

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CLOCKWISE, FROM THIS PHOTO: Baltimore Beacon in west Cork; chef Rob Krawczyk of Chestnut; Chestnut serves exquisite food while retaining its old-school pub charm; Kinsale headland; Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral in Cork city

En route to the “Michelin starred restaurant Chestnut, in Ballydehob, detour past Baltimore for a real coastal adventure

”

Before you leave Kinsale make time to pop into one of the town’s many traditional pubs for a pint of the ‘black stuff’, or take a tour of the Kinsale Mead Co, the first meadery in Ireland in nearly 200 years. Last, but certainly not least on your west Cork Michelin star trail is Chestnut, 80km west of Kinsale in the little village of Ballydehob. Ballydehob, just 20km from Ireland’s most southwesterly point of Mizen Head (take a detour past Baltimore for a real coastal adventure), is home to just 300 people, but it sure packs a punch when it comes to food. Chestnut gained its first Michelin star in 2019 (and held onto it in 2020), turning a forgotten rural pub into a food lover’s dream. 34 Ireland’s Best 2020

Chef patron Rob Krawczyk, along with his partner Elaine, offer up some of the finest Irish hospitality in the country. With just 18 seats, each guest will feel completely looked after. Step inside this cosy restaurant and settle in for a few hours of incredible food in a laidback setting. Wood panelling and deep blue walls give the space a homely feel, with the food a shining star on each plate. The turfsmoked butter is worth the journey alone. Original stools that Guinness drinkers once perched upon still line the bar, and the space has been perfectly refurbished, still retaining its old-school pub charm. Warm and welcoming with delicious food on offer, there’s just something really special about Chestnut – it seems west Cork has sprinkled its magic around once again. IB

PROVINCES MUNSTER

FOLLOW THE FOOD ICHIGO ICHIE, CORK

A departure from the norm in Cork city, the first kaiseki restaurant in Ireland has rightfully held onto its Michelin star this year. ichigoichie.ie

BASTION, KINSALE

This intimate bistro-style restaurant is a fantastic place to try local dishes and gained its first Michelin star for 2020. Come hungry for its eightcourse tasting menu. bastionkinsale.com RESTAURANT CHESTNUT, BALLYDEHOB

Using techniques such as smoking and fermenting, Irish chef Rob Krawczyk will wow you with his cooking. You’ll be pleased you made the trip to Cork’s far west. restaurantchestnutwestcork.ie CLONAKILTY WALKING FOOD TOUR, CLONAKILTY

Join food writer Kate Ryan as she takes you to meet local food producers on this tempting tour. Learn the stories of the people behind some of Cork’s most beloved treats as you taste your way through the town. flavour.ie TOONS BRIDGE DAIRY, MACROOM

In the town of Macroom lies some of Ireland’s most coveted cheese. Stop by the dairy and stock up on Irish Mozzarella, Burrata and Halloumi (their Fior di Latte is legendary). The Toons Bridge pizzeria is right next door, so when you’ve worked up an appetite from staring at those creamy cheeses, have a traditional Neapolitan pizza slathered with just that. toonsbridgedairy.com

GLENILEN FARM, DRIMOLEAGUE

Just outside the little village of Drimoleague, owners Alan and Valerie run farm tours where you can hear the story behind Glenilen Farm. Learn about the history of farming in Ireland and see the processes involved in making these famous dairy goods. Sample the farm’s natural yoghurts, farmhouse butter or clotted cream and don’t leave without trying their homemade cheesecake – it’s simply delicious. glenilenfarm.com WOODCOCK SMOKERY, SKIBBEREEN

Starting out as a fisherwoman, Sally Barnes smoked her first fish in 1979 and hasn’t stopped since. Working solely with wild, non-farmed fish, caught in the seas around west Cork, Sally uses no artificial flavourings or colours. Instead, using just salt and hardwood smoke she produces award-winning fish, which is regularly seen on the menus of local restaurants. Sally is considered one of the key figures in the Irish artisan food movement and she also runs masterclasses for anyone keen to try their hand at this traditional method of smoking fish. woodcocksmokery.com

MUNSTER at a glance AREA 24,675km2 COUNTIES 6 POPULATION 1.3 million LARGEST TOWNS/CITIES

Cork, Ennis, Limerick, Tralee, Waterford RIVERS Bandon, Blackwater, Lee, Shannon, Suir HIGHEST POINT Carrauntoohill, 1,039m (highest in Ireland)

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CONNACHT

LAND OF HEART’S DESIRE We follow the WB Yeats trail in and around Sligo and discover the places that inspired the much-loved poet and his peers Words by Megan Eaves

ne of Ireland’s most celebrated literary sons, poet William Butler Yeats spent his childhood in Sligo and the county’s sorrowfully majestic landscapes are infused throughout his writing. Though he lived mainly in London and Dublin, Yeats never gave up his love of Sligo, visiting often throughout his life and penning the county’s soft romance in bouts of nostalgia. Born in Dublin, Yeats’ parents moved him to Sligo, where his mother’s family owned a small estate at Merville. He was the eldest

of four children, and all of his siblings were creatives that went on to be inspired by the storied, ancient scenery of Connacht. Jack B Yeats, William’s younger brother, became one of Ireland’s most celebrated painters, with many of his Sligo landscapes adorning the walls of the National Gallery of Ireland in Dublin today. The spirit of Yeats is never very far away in Sligo, from the lumbering mountains and waterfalls immortalised in his writing to artworks and exhibitions in his honour. Here are the places most associated with him.

PROVINCES CONNACHT

Had I the heavens’ embroidered cloths, Enwrought with golden and silver light, The blue and the dim and the dark cloths Of night and light and the half-light, I would spread the cloths under your feet: But I, being poor, have only my dreams; I have spread my dreams under your feet; Tread softly because you tread on my dreams.

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DRUMCLIFF Under bare Ben Bulben’s head ru

hur hyar

eats s

Among Yeats’ most famous poems, ‘Under Ben Bulben’ has become known as his self-eulogy. Published in 1938, a year before his death, it describes the hulking Sligo mountain (sometimes spelled Benbulbin) and Drumcliff (or Drumcliffe) Churchyard where Yeats would be buried, even detailing the lines that would be inscribed on his headstone: Cast a cold eye / On life, on death. / Horseman, pass by. St Columba’s Church, where Yeats’ grandfather was rector from 1811-46, is a simple neo-gothic chapel, built in 1809. The site itself is much older, said to be founded by St Columba in the 6th century. The remains of an early monastery are marked by a leftover round tower and a high Celtic cross outside. Yeats’ grave and that of his wife, Georgie (listed on her headstone as ‘George’), are in the cemetery, which has broad views of the verdant Ben Bulben to the north. sligotourism.ie

“

Among Yeats’ most famous poems, ‘Under Ben Bulben’ has become known as his self-eulogy

PREVIOUS PAGE: Ben Bulben as seen over Sligo Bay THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Yeats’ grave in Drumcliff Churchyard; rural County Sligo; Ben Bulben

38 Ireland’s Best 2020

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INNISFREE

I will arise and go now, and go to Innisfree,

And a small cabin build there, of clay and wattles made;

Nine bean rows will I have there, a hive for the honey bee, And live alone in the bee-loud glade. In 1888, a 23-year-old Yeats was battling the heavy traffic of Fleet Street in London when his mind strayed to the serenity of a Sligo lake that he loved as a child. The 12 lines of one of his most beloved poems followed, and two years later, ‘The Lake Isle of Innisfree’ was published in the National Observer. The islet of Innisfree is a bump of tree-covered soil amid Lough Gill, a freshwater lake straddling the border between Sligo and County Leitrim. Barely big enough to contain the cabin that Yeats dreamed of, Innisfree can be seen on a boat tour with Rose of Innisfree (€20 adult/€10 child), which sails from the lake’s northern shore, near 17th-century Parkes Castle, daily from Easter to late October. roseofinnisfree.com

PROVINCES CONNACHT

GLENCAR WATERFALL The mystical cascade featured in ‘The Stolen Child’ plunges in a wide gush over shale and limestone cliffs into a deep pool, flowing into Glencar Lough below it. A damp path covered in emerald moss leads to the 15 metre-high Glencar Waterfall; it’s not hard to imagine that the fairies Yeats imagined in his poem are hiding in the weeping ferns and behind the delicate petals of alpine saxifrage and fringed sandwort that spring up from the banks of the stream. The waterfall is located seven miles (11km) west of Manorhamilton and is free to visit. leitrimtourism.com

not hard to imagine “It’sthat the fairies Yeats imagined in his poem are hiding in the weeping ferns

”

Where the wandering water gushes From the hills above Glen-Car, In pools among the rushes

That scarce could bathe a star 40 Ireland’s Best 2020

PROVINCES CONNACHT

LISSADELL HOUSE AND GARDENS Overlooking Drumcliff Bay from northern Sligo’s Maugherow peninsula, Lissadell House was the childhood home of writers and suffragists Eva and Constance Gore-Booth. After meeting Constance (more commonly known as Countess Markievicz) in London, Yeats vacationed at Lissadell, including for an extended period from 189495. Yeats and his brother Jack spent time playing cricket on the broad lawns here and conversing with the Gore-Booth sisters, particularly Eva, whose poetry greatly impressed Yeats, and so he wrote ‘In Memory of Eva Gore-Booth and Con Markievicz’. A permanent exhibition at the mansion celebrates the Yeats brothers through sketches, paintings, letters and rare photographs. Lissadell House and Gardens are open April-September (€14 adult/€6 children). lissadellhouse.com

THIS IMAGE AND FAR LEFT: Glencar waterfall TOP: Lissadell House BOTTOM: The gardens at Lissadell House

The light of evening, Lissadell,

Great windows open to the south, Two girls in silk kimonos, both Beautiful, one a gazelle

PROVINCES CONNACHT

The Yeats’ family holidays were based on Rosses Point peninsula, in the now ruined Elsinore House. The peninsula’s sweeping coastal terrain became a constant motif for Yeats, in ‘The Stolen Child’ (below) and in The Celtic Twilight, a collection of essays about fairies and folklore associated with the area. Rosses Point encompasses a pleasant village, coastal promenade and the wind-swept Rosses Point Beach, with its romantic “dim grey sands”. The four-star Yeats Country Hotel offers rooms with views of Sligo Bay, and the Little Cottage Cafe overlooking the promenade has hand-roasted coffee and warming seafood chowder should the wild Atlantic weather strike. yeatscountryhotel.com facebook.com/thelittlecottagecafe

Rosses Point Beach, “with its romantic dim grey sands ” Where the wave of moonlight glosses The dim grey sands with light, Far off by furthest Rosses We foot it all the night

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Rosses Point; ‘Waiting on the Shore’ at Rosses Point; WB Yeats statue in Sligo; a music session at Foley’s Bar; the cloisters at Sligo Abbey

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ROSSES POINT

PROVINCES CONNACHT

SLIGO TOWN How many loved your moments of glad grace,

And loved your beauty with love false or true, But one man loved the pilgrim soul in you,

And loved the sorrows of your changing face Yeats is everywhere in Sligo Town, the county’s largest urban centre. His face and words are memorialised in statues and painted on walls across the town. The most striking of these are the murals by artist Nik Purdy, including one of Yeats on a building on Lord Edward St across from Sligo Station, as well as one of Maude Gonne – Yeats’ long-time muse – and the words to ‘When You Are Old’ (above) at the northwest corner of Union and Wine Streets. A bust of Yeats on Lower Knox St marks the entrance to the Yeats Building, home to the Yeats Society (€3 entry fee), which maintains an exhibition and runs annual summer and winter schools dedicated to the poet. The Niland Collection at the Model Arts Centre has a collection of Jack B Yeats paintings and a complete collection of William’s poems from 1889-1936. The Sligo County Museum also maintains a Yeats collection that includes manuscripts, letters and a copy of his Nobel Prize. Yeats’ face even accompanies you to the bathroom at Foley’s pub on Castle St, where the poet’s aged visage has been immortalised in spray paint at the entrance to the loos. Sligo Town is stacked with pubs, but for consistently great arts and music, there’s nowhere better than Shoot The Crows, a bohemian pub that hosts weekly traditional Irish, folk and Americana music. yeatssociety.com themodel.ie sligoarts.ie facebook.com/shootthecrows IB

LITERARY CONNACHT Read on to see how Connacht inspired some of Ireland’s other great writers OSCAR WILDE

The poet and playwright described Connemara in County Galway as “a savage beauty”. His family summered at Moytura House near Lough Corrib in Mayo. Wilde is memorialised in bronze, conversing with Estonian writer Eduard Vilde (1856–1933), on William St in Galway City. GEORGE MOORE

Lough Carra in Mayo was the summer retreat for the writer and co-founder of the Abbey Theatre – his novel The Lake is set here. It is also believed that English writer DH Lawrence spent several months here in 1919. LADY GREGORY

The Abbey Theatre cofounder lived at Coole Park in Galway, which became an important meeting spot for the Irish Literary Revival. DOUGLAS HYDE

Ireland’s first president was born in Roscommon and spent a large part of his childhood here. His most well-known literary work is Love Songs of Connacht, a collection of poetry and verse written in Irish.

CONNACHT at a glance AREA 17,800km2 COUNTIES 5 POPULATION 550,000 LARGEST TOWNS/CITIES

Ballina, Castlebar, Galway, Sligo, Tuam RIVERS Corrib, Moy, Shannon, Suck HIGHEST POINT Mweelrea, 814m

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PROVINCES ULSTER

THE CAUSEWAY COAST We explore one of Ireland’s most thrilling routes, which skirts the northernmost shore of Ireland

Words by Nicola Brady

here’s an unavoidable romance to the Irish coast. It’s battered, dramatic and almost gothic in parts – a combination of soaring cliffs, empty beaches and tiny coves. And one of the most striking parts of the coastline is up in Northern Ireland, on what’s known as the Causeway Coast. This stretch of shore runs between Belfast and Derry, where a winding road weaves for 153 miles alongside the ocean.

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PROVINCES ULSTER

“

The queue of people waiting to walk is almost always peppered with acrophobics, nervously watching the rope bridge bounce as people pass over

”

The picturesque stopping points come thick and fast. One of the first detours is the Gobbins, a cliff path that was developed in the Victorian era, and (thankfully) upgraded to make it a whole lot more manageable. You’ll trek along the side of the cliffs, up steep paths, spiral staircases and over bridges that sway ever so slightly in the wind. The reward? Enchanting views, with the chance of spotting seals, seabirds and even some puffins, who nest at the end of the trail. If the mention of swaying bridges makes you nervous, the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge mightn’t be your cup of tea… as you stand at the entrance of the towering bridge, the queue of people waiting to walk across is almost always peppered with acrophobics, nervously watching the rope bridge bounce as people pass over. If, however, you don’t have a fear of heights, it’s an unmissable experience. Beneath your feet (if you have the courage to look down) the turquoise water crashes between the rocks, swirling almost 100 feet below. It’s not just the stopping points along the Causeway Coast route that offer the ‘wow’ moments. The route itself is an almost constant source of wondrous views, from the tiny tunnel you drive through near Waterfoot, to the bouncy green hills as you approach the coastal village of Cushendall. Head a little bit off the main road, and you’ll find the Cushendun Caves. A few years ago, this little collection of caves wouldn’t have been seen by many, but that all changed when a little production called Game of Thrones came to town.

46 Ireland’s Best 2020

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Brave explorers cross the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge; Lurigethan looms over Glenballyemon near Cushendall; the rope bridge crosses a hundred feet above the sea

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TOP TO BOTTOM: Ballintoy Harbour is just a few miles from the Giant’s Causeway; the Dark Hedges in Ballymoney feature in the Game of Thrones

Dotted with filming “ locations such as the caves ...you can also pop into Ballintoy Harbour (which doubled up as the Iron Islands), and the Dark Hedges (known as the Kingsroad

”

“

Ballintoy Harbour (which doubled up as the Iron Islands), and the Dark Hedges (known as the Kingsroad) are just off the main coastal route

”

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PROVINCES ULSTER

way and you’ll likely be rewarded with a bowl of thick, creamy chowder filled with salmon, smoked haddock and muscles, with warm soda bread to mop up the excess cream. In Ballycastle, the tiny café Ursa Minor has something of a cult following – people drive for miles to pick up their freshly-made sourdough bread, and it’s used in some of the best restaurants in the north. There’s more sourdough afoot at Mini Maegden, a tiny 1950s caravan that parks up right by the Giant’s Causeway from March to October. Be prepared for a queue, because their gooey grilled cheese sandwiches fly out the hatch as soon as the sign goes up. If you fancy something sweet, their hot chocolates arrive with a scorched blob of marshmallow on top and are every bit as delicious as they look.

Filmed largely in this part of Northern Ireland, the scenery around these counties is dotted with Game of Thrones locations, such as the caves (where Melisandre gave birth to a shadow demon). You can also pop into Ballintoy Harbour (which doubled up as the Iron Islands), and the Dark Hedges (known as the Kingsroad), which are just off the main coastal route – though it’s best to arrive early in the morning, so you can take in the gorgeous arc of tree branches without the gaggle of tour coaches at your side. If the world of Winterfell is foreign to you, fear not – despite the dedicated tour groups visiting the various locations, there’s plenty more to the region than the TV show. If you’re a foodie, the pleasures are endless. Stop into any of the tiny village pubs along the

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CLOCKWISE, FROM RIGHT: A still room at Bushmills Distillery; Dunluce Castle; The Bushmills Inn; the Giant’s Causeway; distillery barrels

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Just a short hop from the Giant’s Causeway is Bushmills, the charming little village that is home to Ireland’s oldest working distillery

”

50 Ireland’s Best 2020

PROVINCES ULSTER

Bushmills is a great village to spend the night in, too – Bushmills Inn is charming, dreamily snug and located roughly halfway along the route. After a day spent on the blustery coast, nothing feels better than sinking into one of their extra deep bathtubs, with the promise of a hearty plate of roasted venison in the restaurant afterwards. Barely five minutes away, the ruins of Dunluce Castle balance precariously on the cliff top, the gothic arches framing the sea behind. Ramble around the ruins and you’ll see wildflowers growing between the fallen rocks and walls, but the best views come from the still intact window frame that stands stoically among the ruins. The beach towns of Portstewart and Portrush are well worth a pit stop, particularly if you’re a golfer. In 2019, The 148th Open was held at the Royal Portrush Golf Club, and the course at Portstewart is almost as striking, if not as well known. At the end of the line, Derry is a city

The best views come “from the still intact window frame that stands stoically among the ruins

”

Of course, the namesake Giant’s Causeway is one of the biggest draws along the coast. This geological phenomenon is the source of numerous legends – depending on who’s telling the story, you might believe that the stones were placed there by the giant Finn McCool, on his way to Scotland to battle Benandonner. Or you might concede that the 40,000 hexagonal pillars are the result of volcanic activity. Either way, it’s a thing of extraordinary beauty. It’s the kind of place that never fails to impress, whether you’re seeing it as the sun dips towards the horizon, setting the stones ablaze in an amber hue, or whether the waves are crashing high over the columns, the grey Atlantic churning against the shore. Just a short hop from the Giant’s Causeway is Bushmills, the charming little village that is home to the world’s oldest working distillery. Book one of the tours with a tasting and you can cosy up by the fireside nursing some of their rare whiskeys.

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PLAN YOUR VISIT

THE GOBBINS CLIFFPATH, ISLANDMAGEE

Opening each year in March, you’ll need walking boots and a strong stomach to walk this coastal path. thegobbinscliffpath.com CARRICK-A-REDE, BALLINTOY

Talking of strong stomachs, this rope bridge that teeters above the wave-lashed rocks below is a real test of bravery. nationaltrust.org.uk/carrick-a-rede GIANT’S CAUSEWAY, BUSHMILLS

A geological wonder or the remains of a magical bridge? You decide, but we’re fairly sure you’ve never seen anything quite like it. nationaltrust.org.uk/giantscauseway URSA MINOR BAKEHOUSE, BALLYCASTLE

People come from all over to sample the homemade goodies at this bakery. ursaminorbakehouse.com MAEGDEN, BUSHMILLS

This food truck serving grilled cheese sandwiches and hot drinks is the perfect pitstop after a visit to the Giant’s Causeway. cheesemaegden.com BUSHMILLS DISTILLERY, BUSHMILLS

This distillery has been making whiskey since 1608, making it

52 Ireland’s Best 2020

the oldest working distillery in Ireland. bushmills.com BUSHMILLS INN

This 17th-century coaching inn is the perfect place to unwind after a day exploring the Causeway Coast. bushmillsinn.com WALLED CITY BREWERY, DERRY

For craft beer, cross the Peace Bridge and pay a visit to this brewery, breathing new life into old barracks. walledcitybrewery.com TAKE A TOUR, DERRY

Billy Scott runs private tours of the Causeway Coast, while Belfast Bus Tours runs coach trips to the Giant’s Causeway. You can book guided walking tours with Derry City Tours . touringaroundbelfast.com allensbelfastbustours.com derrycitytours.com0 ULSTER at a glance AREA 21,550km2 COUNTIES 9 POPULATION 2.1 million LARGEST TOWNS/CITIES

Bangor, Belfast, Craigavon, Derry, Lisburn RIVERS Bann, Erne, Foyle, Lagan, Shannon (source) HIGHEST POINT Slieve Donard, 850m (Northern Ireland’s highest peak)

that’s having a moment in the spotlight. Whether that’s the result of the hit TV show Derry Girls, or the regeneration of the city as a whole, there’s a buzz to the place that makes it a dream to explore. Take a walk along the city’s walls, and you’ll get a fascinating insight to the complex history of the area – it’s best to do this with a local guide, who can navigate the stories of the city. The city’s renaissance means that there’s an abundance of great places to eat and drink. The Walled City Brewery is over in Ebrington Square, in what was the military barracks. Now, it’s an area where people mingle for art exhibitions, events and an excellent pint of craft beer, almost all of which is brewed locally. The walk from the city to the square leads you over the relatively new Peace Bridge, a symbol of harmony between communities. As you cross the bridge, while the river flows beneath you and the city hums with activity, it feels like the perfect end to your journey. IB

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NORTHERN IRELAND

Londonderry 15

LONDONDERRY

ANTRIM

DONEGAL

8 7

ULSTER

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Belfast

TYRONE

10 9 7

Sligo

FERMANAGH

DOWN ARMAGH

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SLIGO

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LEITRIM

CAVAN LOUTH

MAYO

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ROSCOMMON

CONNACHT

LONGFORD

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IRELAND

8 GALWAY

6 5

MEATH

Galway

7 5

WESTMEATH

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DUBLIN

Dublin

2 4 9

O F F A LY

KILDARE

7 11

WICKLOW

LAOIS CLARE

5 9 TIPPERARY

Limerick

8 LIMERICK

Tipperary

MUNSTER

CORK

Cork 4 8

54 Ireland’s IRELAND’S BEST 54 Best 2020

6 WEXFORD

KERRY

KILKENNY

WATERFORD

CARLOW

Kilkenny

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DIRECTORY IRELAND'S BEST

DIRECTORY ATTRACTIONS

DISTILLERIES

BEAUTY SPOTS

Pages: 56-65

Pages: 76-85

Pages: 94-103

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Teeling Distillery The Powerscourt Distillery Tullamore D.E.W. Distillery Glendalough Distillery Royal Oak Distillery The Jameson Experience Slane Whiskey Kilbeggan Distillery Bushmills Distillery Echlinville Distillery

SHOPPING Pages: 86-87 1. The Distillery Store 2. Celtic Whiskey Shop

CASTLES & HOUSES

TOURS & CRUISES

Pages: 66-75

Pages: 89-93

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Newgrange Croke Park & GAA Museum Kilmainham Gaol Museum Guinness Storehouse The Book of Kells The Little Museum of Dublin Glendalough The Rock of Cashel Skellig Michael The Irish Whiskey Experience Cliffs of Moher Burren National Park Croagh Patrick Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark Derry City Walls Giant’s Causeway Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge Titanic Belfast

Belvedere House, Gardens & Park Castletown House & Parklands Áras an Uachtaráin Powerscourt Estate Kilkenny Castle Cahir Castle Blarney Castle & Gardens Derrynane House Bunratty Castle & Folk Park Parke’s Castle Florence Court Donegal Castle Dunluce Castle Mount Stewart Clonalis House

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Ireland’s Ancient East Get to the Heart of Ireland Embrace the Wild West Cork & Blarney Castle Belmond Grand Hibernian Rambling on Rathlin Belfast City Tours Game of Thrones

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Coumshingaun Loop Walk Inchydoney Beach Torc Mountain Carrauntoohil Coumeenoole Beach Mount Brandon Trá an Dóilín Dog’s Bay Benbulbin Errigal Mountain & Mackoght Loop Walk 11. Benone Strand 12. Tyrella Beach 13. Slieve Donard

PUBS Pages: 104-109 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

McGrory's The Cobblestone O’Donoghue’s De Barra’s Folk Club Tigh Neachtain Matt Molloy’s The Beach Bar Duke of York Johnnie Fox’s Pub Mulligan's

PLACES TO STAY Pages: 110-114 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Wicklow Head Lighthouse Ashford Castle Galgorm Spa & Golf Resort Ballynahinch Castle Hotel Coppershill Killeavy Castle The G Hotel & Spa Glenlo Abbey

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ATTRACTIONS

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FROM THE ANCIENT TO THE MODERN Our top picks for days out across Ireland, from famous visitor sites to lesser-known natural marvels

THE ROCK OF CASHEL, COUNTY TIPPERARY

The Rock of Cashel is one of Ireland’s most treasured historical and archaeological sites, located just five minutes by foot outside the town of Cashel in County Tipperary. This prominent green hill, also known as St Patrick’s Rock or Cashel of Kings, rises from a grassy plain and was gifted to the Church in 1101 by the King of Munster, Muirchertach Ua Briain to end rivalry over possession of the Rock. The history of the Rock of Cashel predates the 12th and 13th-century buildings you can see today as this is reputedly the site of the conversion of the King of Munster by St Patrick in the 5th century AD, however there is little structural evidence of this period. The highlight of the Rock is Cormac’s 56 Ireland’s Best 2020

Chapel: consecrated in 1134, it is a beautiful example of Romanesque architecture, with wide arches, vaulted ceilings and carved doorways. Be sure to visit the Cashel Heritage Centre on Main Street in Cashel for information about the local area. Entry is free and the centre has a craft shop, which is a good place to pick up souvenirs. OPEN: Year-round, daily from 9am to 7pm in the summer months and until 5.30pm or 4.30pm at other times of the year. PRICE: Adults €8, children €4. +353 62 61437 heritageireland.ie/en/south-east/rockofcashel

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TITANIC BELFAST, BELFAST

Titanic Belfast is a relatively recent addition to Belfast’s skyline. Known as the Titanic Quarter, this area is a tourist hotspot thanks to its links with the world’s most famous shipwreck and the studios where much of the TV series Game of Thrones is filmed. The unique building was inspired by many maritime metaphors including ship’s bows, water crystals, the formations of icebergs, compass points and the White Star Line logo. Building work was completed in time for RMS Titanic’s centenary, with the centre opening to the public in March 2012. The massive structure houses nine galleries, an underwater exploration theatre, and a recreation of the ship’s cabins. OPEN: Year-round, daily from 8.30am to 7pm or 8pm in summer. Times vary slightly out of season. PRICE: Adults £19, children (5-16) £8.50. +44 (0)28 9076 6386 titanicbelfast.com

NEWGRANGE, COUNTY MEATH

Newgrange, located in the Boyne Valley, County Meath, is one of the most special sites in Ireland’s Ancient East. This Stone Age (Neolithic) monument was built by farmers that prospered on these rich lands and the attraction is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Newgrange is a large, circular mound with a 19-metre passageway inside, leading to three chambers. It was constructed around 5,200 years ago, making it older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramid of Giza. The structure is part of a collection of around 35 monuments built along a bend of the River Boyne. Together, they are known as Brú na Bóinne, the ‘palace’ (or ‘mansion’) of the Boyne. Visitors can access Newgrange by guided tour from the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre, where they can learn about how the monuments were built and the society in which they were created, before going to see the tombs themselves. OPEN: Times vary throughout the year, from 9am to 7pm in the summer months and until 5pm in winter. PRICE: Adults €7, children €4. +353 (41) 988 0300 newgrange.com

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THE BOOK OF KELLS, DUBLIN

The 9th-century Book of Kells contains the four Gospels of the New Testament written in Latin on vellum (prepared calfskin) and is a national treasure. Located in the heart of Dublin city, visitors are transported back to the 18th century as they walk through the cobbled stones of Trinity College Dublin to the Old Library where the Book is on display. This famous medieval manuscript has attracted many a well-known tourist, from the Queen to the Obamas. Famous largely for its lavish decoration, which combines intricate detail with bold and striking illustrations, the Book came to Dublin in the mid-1600s where it has been on display since the mid-19th century, though until March 2020 there is a replica in place while conservation work is undertaken on the original. Since 1953, it has been bound in four volumes but only two of these can normally be seen. OPEN: Daily from 8.30am to 5pm, May to September (9.30am to 5pm on Sundays) and 9.30am to 5pm from October to April (Sundays, 12pm to 4.30pm). PRICE: Adults €11-€14. Under 12s free. +353 (0)1 896 2320 tcd.ie/visitors/book-of-kells

CROKE PARK & GAA MUSEUM, DUBLIN

The imposing Croke Park stadium is unmistakable on the Dublin skyline and is the home of Gaelic games and the headquarters of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA). The stadium is one of the largest in Europe with a capacity of 82,300 and has hosted many high-profile, international sporting events and concerts. In the eyes of Irish people, Croke Park is much more than a stadium. Gaelic games and the GAA are at the heart of communities in Ireland and the GAA represents the country’s national games of Gaelic football and hurling. The museum features exhibitions and an interactive zone, while a stadium tour offers an access-all-areas experience. Don’t miss the Ericsson Skyline tour, a thrilling 17-storey-high, rooftop walkway suspended above the ground that offers breathtaking views of Dublin city and beyond. OPEN: Daily from 9.30am (10.30am on Sundays) to 5pm PRICE: Stadium tours and access to GAA Museum: adults €15, children €10. Museum only: adults €8, children €6. +353 (0)1 819 2300 crokepark.ie/gaa-museum-tours 58 Ireland’s Best 2020

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THE LITTLE MUSEUM OF DUBLIN, DUBLIN

A search for the best museums in Ireland will see this little gem on St Stephen’s Green top most lists. Following a public appeal for historic objects, the museum was able to open in 2011 thanks to the generosity of the Irish people who donated thousands of artefacts. Today, there are over 5,000 items in the museum’s collection, telling the remarkable story of the Irish capital. Located in a beautiful Georgian townhouse overlooking Dublin’s St Stephen’s Green, the aim of the museum is to remember the city’s recent past and offer visitors a snapshot of everything that shaped 20th-century Dublin. Tours are insightful, humorous, quirky and captivating, as guides tell the story of Dublin, entwined with facts on wider Irish history. Tours fill up quickly, so online booking is recommended. OPEN: Daily from 9.30am to 5pm (8pm on Thursdays). PRICE: Tickets from €8. +353 (0)1 661 1000 littlemuseum.ie

GUINNESS STOREHOUSE, DUBLIN

Many people say that Guinness doesn’t travel well, so where better to sample the Black Stuff than its home in the heart of Dublin. Located at St James’s Gate Brewery, the Guinness Storehouse is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions where eager tourists wind their way through the visitor centre for a well-earned pint in the rooftop bar. Visitors begin the journey at the bottom of the world’s largest pint glass before making their way up through seven floors of interactive displays and experiences. Understanding the brewing process and learning about the brewing heritage of Guinness alongside Ireland’s rich history is enough to build up a thirst by the time guests reach the world-famous Gravity Bar that overlooks the city. What better reward than a perfectly poured pint of Guinness while enjoying panoramic views of Dublin? OPEN: Year-round, daily from 9.30am to 7pm with extended opening hours in July and August. PRICE: Adults from €19.50, children €5-€16. Under 6s free. +353 (0)1 408 4800 guinness-storehouse.com Ireland’s Best 2020 59

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GLENDALOUGH, COUNTY WICKLOW

Glendalough, known as ‘the valley of the two lakes’, is another of Ireland’s beautiful visitor destinations. Located in the Wicklow Mountains National Park, people have been drawn to the area for thousands of years for its rich history, stunning scenery, archaeology and wildlife. There is so much to explore in the region, from the famously scenic lakes and glens to the historic monastic site, which flourished in the Valley of Glendalough from the 11th century AD; visitors travelled from all over to be taught by the monks and scholars. Enjoy pretty forest walks or take on a more challenging mountain trail to discover panoramic views. OPEN: Daily from 9.30am to 6pm (closing at 5pm from mid-October to mid-March). PRICE: Visitor centre admission: adults €5, children €3. +353 404 45352 glendalough.ie

SKELLIG MICHAEL, COUNTY KERRY

About eight miles off the coast of Portmagee in southwest Kerry, the Skellig Islands rise from the Atlantic Ocean to offer an unspoiled glimpse of Ireland’s ancient past. The islands are made up of Little Skellig and Skellig Michael, the latter of which rises an impressive 218 metres above sea level. While the rock is awe-inspiring in itself, it is the incredibly well preserved 6th-century monastic site that sits on top that piques the interest of tourists. Now a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, the monastic outpost can be reached by climbing a 1,000-year-old stairway of more than 600 steps. Visitors (of which there are more since it featured in the 2017 film Star Wars: The Last Jedi) can take a boat trip out to the island to discover the site firsthand, or visit the Skellig Experience Visitor Centre. Little Skellig is home to more than 27,000 pairs of gannets, the world’s second largest colony. Keen birdwatchers will also spot puffins and Arctic terns. OPEN: The Skellig Experience Visitor Centre is open from March to November with varying opening times. PRICE: Entry to exhibitions: adults €5, children €3. +353 (0)66 947 6306 skelligexperience.com 60 Ireland’s Best 2020

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THE IRISH WHISKEY EXPERIENCE, COUNTY KERRY

No trip to Killarney in the southwest of Ireland would be complete without a visit to the country’s premier sensory and interactive whisky attraction, the Irish Whiskey Experience. Whether new to Irish whiskey or a connoisseur, there is something for everyone here as you delve into the history of whiskey production, the distilling process and comparative tastings of the nation’s finest. Masterclasses and courses will take you through the art of blending, coopering, food pairing and deconstructions of Ireland’s most celebrated whiskeys. The attraction is a vibrant addition to Killarney’s beautiful countryside and visitors are sure to leave with a new appreciation for uisce beatha (the water of life). The Irish Whiskey Experience is located in the heart of Killarney, just five minutes from the tourist information office. OPEN: Daily from 12pm to 7pm. PRICE: Courses/tours from €25. +353 (0)64 663 5700 irishwhiskeyexperience.net

BURREN NATIONAL PARK, COUNTY CLARE

The Burren National Park is located in the southeastern corner of the Burren, a rocky, limestone region in County Clare with a landscape likened to that of the moon. The word ‘Burren’ comes from the Irish word ‘Boíreann’ meaning rocky place. The park stretches over 1,500 hectares of this distinctive area and was bought by the Government for nature conservation and public access as it contains examples of all the major habitats found in the Burren. There are five marked walking trails to help you discover the many habitats and species that thrive here, such as rich limestone grasslands, hazel and ash woodlands, and limestone pavements. To learn more about the formation of the Burren and how its unique flora and fauna are managed, visit the Clare Heritage Centre in Corofin, which is free to enter and open from April to September. Conservation is high on the agenda here and staff regularly organise talks, walks and activities. OPEN: The national park is open year-round. PRICE: Access is free. +353 (0)65 682 7693 burrennationalpark.ie Ireland’s Best 2020 61

CLIFFS OF MOHER, COUNTY CLARE

The Cliffs of Moher is another of Ireland’s famous coastal visitor attractions. These vertical cliffs along the Wild Atlantic Way draw over a million people a year to experience the stunning views out across the ocean towards the beautiful Aran Islands. Visitors can marvel at the ancient rock beneath their feet while surrounded by nature, wildlife and the sound of the mighty Atlantic as it crashes against the cliffs below. This tourist favourite can be so busy in the summer months that the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience is forced to close its doors due to overcrowding. At least two hours is required to really appreciate the 8km of sheer rock face, with many people spending half a day; and as the cliffs face due west, consider timing your visit with the sunset. Open: The Visitor Experience is open year-round from 9am. Closing times vary throughout the year with the attraction open as late as 9pm in July and August and closing as early as 5pm in the winter months. Online booking is recommended. PRICE: Adults from €4. Under 16s free. Price includes entry to The Cliffs exhibition. +353 (0)65 708 6141 cliffsofmoher.ie

MARBLE ARCH CAVES GLOBAL GEOPARK, COUNTY FERMANAGH

For thousands of years, the Marble Arch Caves lay undisturbed by visitors as the river below eroded millions of tonnes of limestone to carve out the majestic passages that we can explore today. In 1895, French cave explorer Édouard-Alfred Martel and a young scientist born in Dublin, Lyster Jameson, ventured into the darkness and discovered what is now one of Europe’s finest showcaves – taking visitors on a 75-minute tour of this natural underworld of rivers, stalactites and chambers. Electric-powered boats glide through subterranean rivers before visitors continue along a 1.5km walkway to marvel at the caves’ beauty. OPEN: Daily from 10am to 4pm from March to September (open until 6pm in July and August); 10am to 4pm during October; 10.30am-3pm during November; closed December to February. Cave tours may not be available after heavy rain. PRICE: Adults £9.50, children £6.50. Under 5s free. +44 (0)28 6632 1815 marblearchcaves.co.uk 62 Ireland’s Best 2020

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CROAGH PATRICK, COUNTY MAYO

Croagh Patrick, five miles from the town of Westport, is considered Ireland’s holiest mountain and is renowned for its traditional pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint. The famous mountain overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo and people have been making the pilgrimage to the summit for over 5,000 years to mark the 40 days that Saint Patrick fasted here in AD441. It is a common sight to see pilgrims trek to the summit in bare feet as an act of penance. The Croagh Patrick Visitor Centre, Teach na Miasa, is located at the foot of the mountain and was opened to showcase recent archaeological discoveries. OPEN: The Visitor Centre is open from 10am to 7pm in high season, with limited opening hours in low season. croagh-patrick.com

DERRY CITY WALLS, DERRY

The 17th-century walls surrounding the city of Derry make it one of the finest examples of a European walled city. At 1.5km in circumference, the walls form a walkway around the inner city, offering a unique view of the layout of the original town and its preserved, Renaissance-style street plan. The walls were built between 1613 and 1618 and there are four original gates – Bishop’s Gate, Ferryquay Gate, Butcher Gate and Shipquay Gate – with a further three that were added later – Magazine Gate, Castle Gate and New Gate. OPEN: Open to the public from dawn to dusk. PRICE: Free. +44 28 (0)7126 7284 visitderry.com

GIANT’S CAUSEWAY, COUNTY ANTRIM

The Giant’s Causeway is said to be the handiwork of giant Finn McCool, who, according to legend, used the hexagonal basalt columns to create a path to Scotland to take on the mighty Benandonner. The Giant’s Causeway has captured people’s imaginations for centuries, but it has also sparked debate among scientists. With over 40,000 interlocking columns, it is no surprise that this coastal wonder is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the result of intense volcanic and geological activity. The National Trust-owned site features a state-of-the-art visitor centre built to blend seamlessly with the surrounding landscape. OPEN: The visitor centre is open from 9am to 6pm (5pm in the winter); access to the coastline and North Antrim Coast Path is from dawn to dusk. PRICE: Adults £11, children £5.50, under 5s free. +44 (0)28 2073 1855 nationaltrust.org.uk/giants-causeway

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KILMAINHAM GAOL MUSEUM, DUBLIN

In 1796, Kilmainham Gaol was opened as the new county gaol for Dublin and was built to replace the old prison located near the present-day Mount Brown. Built on Gallows Hill, some of the most notorious figures in Irish history were detained and even executed here. From leaders of the 1798 Irish Rebellion to the Irish Civil War, names such as Henry Joy McCracken, Robert Emmet, Anne Devlin and Charles Stewart Parnell will always be associated with the building. The prison also held thousands of ordinary men, women and even children, convicted of everything, from petty offences to serious crimes. Due to the use of the prison as a holding depot for convicts awaiting transportation to Australia, overcrowding was a problem, which led to poor health and hygiene, and ultimately disease, through most of the 19th century. The gaol eventually fell to ruin and was closed in 1924, but by 1960 it was decided that the prison played an important role in Ireland’s history and it should be restored. The upkeep and running of the gaol was then taken into state care in 1986 under the Office of Public Works. OPEN: Year-round. Open from 9am to 6/7pm in the summer months and from 9.30am to 5.30pm during the winter. PRICE: Adults €8, children €4, under 12s free. Price includes a guided tour. +353 (0)1 453 5984 kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie 64 Ireland’s Best 2020

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CARRICK-A-REDE ROPE BRIDGE, COUNTY ANTRIM

This rope bridge, suspended almost 100 feet above sea level, as waves crash on the rocks below, is not for the faint hearted. First erected by salmon fishermen 350 years ago, the bridge connects the Antrim coastline to Carrick-a-Rede Island, home to a single cottage where fishermen would take cover. Each year, the tourist hotspot, looked after by the National Trust, attracts visitors from all over the world, who wait in line to take on the exhilarating experience. Although no longer used by salmon fishermen, the bridge has been replaced and upgraded several times over the years to cope with the volume of tourists that come to attempt the walk to the other side. The current bridge, erected in 2008, was made in Belfast at a cost of £16,000 and offers a much safer passage for visitors than previous versions. That said, many visitors have made it across to the island, but couldn’t face the return journey, requiring a boat to take them back. OPEN: 9.30am to 3.30pm. PRICE: Adults £9, children £4.50. +44 (0)28 2073 3335 nationaltrust.org.uk/carrick-a-rede Ireland’s Best 2020 65

CASTLES & HOUSES

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STATELY VISITS From fairytale castles to homes that have played a pivotal role in Ireland’s history, here are the heritage buildings you won’t want to miss

KILKENNY CASTLE, KILKENNY

Strategically situated at a height along the banks of the River Nore, Kilkenny Castle stands proud at the heart of the city of Kilkenny. The original Angle-Norman castle was built for William Marshal, 4th Earl of Pembroke in the early 13th century and later became the main residence of the powerful Butler family for almost 600 years. A great deal of refurbishment was carried out in the 1600s, which included the planting of formal gardens with an elevated terrace, but by the early 18th century, a hiatus in the Butler family’s occupancy saw the castle fall into a state of ruin. On the return of the Butlers, elegant stables were added and the 19th-century remodelling of the castle introduced 66 Ireland’s Best 2020

castellated Baronial style and Ruskinian Gothic motifs until the family finally moved out in 1935. Since 1969, the castle and surrounding buildings have been in the care of the Office of Public Works and many programmes of conservation and restoration have been carried out. OPEN: Year-round, daily from 9am to 5.30pm (June to August); 9.30am to 5.30pm in April, May and September; 5pm closing in March and 4.30pm closing from October to February. PRICE: Adults €8, children €4. Guided tours more. +353 56 770 4100 kilkennycastle.ie

DIRECTORY CASTLES & COUNTRY HOUSES

CLONALIS HOUSE, COUNTY ROSCOMMON

This manor house is the family seat of the O’Conor family, direct descendants of the last High Kings of Ireland. The current house was built in 1878 by Charles Owen O’Conor Don in a rich Victorian Italianate style. The house is reached at the end of a huge driveway, which passes through green pastures and woodland and overlooks a parkland of oak and copper beech trees and is the epitome of refined elegance. The house is open to day visitors from June to August, when you can tour the resplendent rooms, including the library, which has books dating back as far as the 16th century, and the gorgeous drawing room. However, to fully appreciate the house (and pretend like it’s your own), you should book into one of the rooms for the night. From April to October, there are four comfortable guest rooms, including both the Green and Gold bedrooms, which have four-poster beds, and guests can take tea by the peat fire in the library, or explore the acres of grounds. From Tuesday to Saturday, dinner is served in the dining room by candlelight, under the gaze of seven generations of O’Conor family portraits. OPEN: Tours from June to August, B&B from April to October. PRICE: Adults €10, children €5. B&B rooms available from €188 to €210 per night, based on two people sharing. +353 (0) 94 9620014 clonalis.com

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BELVEDERE HOUSE GARDENS & PARK, COUNTY WESTMEATH

This magnificent lakeside estate is set over 160 acres of parkland in Mullingar, County Westmeath and includes a fully restored Georgian villa, romantic follies and a thoroughly intriguing story. Belvedere House was designed by the famous architect behind many of Ireland’s mansions, Richard Cassels, and was built in 1740 for Robert Rochfort, who later became Lord Belvedere. The Rochfort family lived at nearby Gaulstown House, but Belvedere became Robert’s main Irish residence after he accused his wife and younger brother, Arthur, of having an affair. Arthur was disowned, and Robert’s wife spent 31 years under house arrest at Gaulstown. The Jealous Wall, an artificial ruin of an abbey, was built around 1760 to obstruct Robert’s view of another brother’s residence, of which he was jealous. There is much to explore on the Belvedere estate, including beautiful woodland and lakeside walks, the magical Fairy Garden and the Walled Garden. OPEN: Year-round from 9.30am to 8pm in high season and until 4.30pm in winter (it closes at 6pm in March and October and 7pm in April and September). PRICE: Adults €8, children €4. +353 (0)44 933 8960 belvedere-house.ie Ireland’s Best 2020 67

POWERSCOURT ESTATE, COUNTY WICKLOW

Powerscourt Estate is a place of indulgence, relaxation and exploration, boasting 47 acres of landscaped gardens against the backdrop of Sugar Loaf Mountain. The estate also features a striking house that was transformed by the 1st Viscount Powerscourt in 1741 from a medieval castle to a Palladian mansion. The house was bought by the Slazenger family in 1961 but a fire in 1974 left much of the house as a shell. Thankfully, in 1996, it was restored and reopened to the public. The estate is now very popular with the gardens being considered among the best in the world. Explore the formal Italian gardens or enjoy the many varieties of trees in the Tower Valley before taking in the views from the top of Pepperpot Tower. Take a picnic to the nearby Powerscourt Waterfall, the highest in Ireland, or play a round of golf at one of the two Championship courses set in the foothills of the Wicklow Mountains half an hour away. OPEN: Year-round with access to the gardens from 9.30am to 5pm daily (closes at dusk in winter). Opening hours for other parts of the estate vary. PRICE: Gardens: Adults €8, children €3.50. Under-5s free. Waterfall: Adults €6, children €3.50. +353 (0)1 204 6000 powerscourt.com

ÁRAS AN UACHTARÁIN, DUBLIN

Áras an Uachtaráin is better known as the family home of the Irish President and a formal venue where the President carries out official state duties. Many world leaders have visited over the years, including Presidents Bill Clinton, Barack Obama and Charles de Gaulle, as well as Nelson Mandela and HM Queen Elizabeth II. The house was built in 1751 in Phoenix Park near Dublin by park ranger Nathanial Clements and in 1782 it was acquired for use by the Viceroys who oversaw British rule in Ireland. The Viceroys occupied the building until 1922 and it was used by the Crown’s representatives during the period of Home Rule that followed until it became the official residence of the President of Ireland in 1938. Its formal gardens were developed in the 1840s and together with 130 acres of parkland, they showcase wonderful Victorian features. Fruit grown on site is used to make juice for the President’s visitors. The East Wing was added in 1849 for a state visit by Queen Victoria and a West Wing in 1911 for George V’s visit. OPEN: Most Saturdays for one-hour guided tours of the formal rooms and gardens. PRICE: Free. Tickets can be obtained from the Phoenix Park Visitor Centre on a first-come-first-served basis. +353 1 677 0095 president.ie 68 Ireland’s Best 2020

DIRECTORY CASTLES & COUNTRY HOUSES

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CASTLETOWN HOUSE & PARKLANDS, COUNTY KILDARE

Castletown was built between 1722 and 1729 in the Palladian style for William Conolly, who was a speaker at the Irish House of Commons. As a man of great power, the house was designed to reflect his position and offer a venue for large-scale political entertainment. Typical Palladian architectural features include a central block, two pavilions, kitchens on one side and stables on the other. However, following the arrival of Lady Louisa Conolly in 1759, Castletown underwent quite a transformation over the next 40 years, with improvements to the house and demesne. Since her death in 1821, few changes have been made to the house. In 1967, the house and 120 acres of land were bought by the Hon Desmond Guinness and restored by the Irish Georgian Society before becoming the first house in Leinster to be opened to the public. In 1994, the property was taken over by the Office of Public Works and an extensive and ongoing conservation programme was launched to maintain the house and surrounding parklands for today’s visitors to enjoy. OPEN: Grounds are open year-round from 10am to 6pm. House is open daily from March to November. PRICE: Grounds are free to enter. Entry to the house and exhibitions: adults €10, children (12-17) €5. +353 (0)1 628 8252 castletown.ie

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MOUNT STEWART, COUNTY DOWN

The 19th-century house and gardens of the stunning Mount Stewart estate is located on the shores of Strangford Lough. Following the recent completion of a £8 million restoration programme, the house and gardens have been lovingly transformed, making this National Trust owned site a must-see attraction. In the early 20th century, Mount Stewart was home to the 7th Marchioness Edith, Lady Londonderry and her family. With a newly renovated Central Hall and Rome bedroom, the restoration work has brought back the elegance and charm of the house when it was home to the family. Exquisite collections are on display, including works by the likes of Lawrence, Brock and Stubbs, and the most significant display of silver in the National Trust’s collection. The gardens at Mount Stewart are among the best in the world thanks to the design and planting artistry of Edith, Lady Londonderry. OPEN: Opening times vary throughout the year. Guided tours of the house run from March to October. PRICE: Adults £9.50, children £4.75. +44 (0)28 4278 8387 nationaltrust.org.uk/mount-stewart 70 Ireland’s Best 2020

DIRECTORY CASTLES & COUNTRY HOUSES

DUNLUCE CASTLE, COUNTY ANTRIM

Around every corner of Northern Ireland’s north Antrim coastline lies something special – the Giant’s Causeway, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge and Bushmills Distillery to name a few. But this rugged coast also offers up superb sandy beaches and clifftop walks presenting breathtaking views across the North Atlantic to nearby Scotland. One location that forms the perfect backdrop is Dunluce Castle, which tells the story of the destruction caused by this dramatic crumbling cliff edge. This iconic ruin was first built by the MacQuillan family around 1500 but was later seized by the ambitious McDonnell clan some 50 years later who made their mark during an era of violence and rebellion. At the beginning of the 17th century, the castle was the seat of the earls of County Antrim, who created a small town at the site. Visitors can explore the long-abandoned Dunluce town, where recent archaeological digs uncovered cobbled streets and houses. Dunluce Castle has a long and tumultuous past with many links to historic events and the odd myth and legend, but today it is best known as Castle Greyjoy in the TV series Game of Thrones. OPEN: Year-round, from 10am to 4pm, with last entry at 3.30pm. PRICE: Adults £5.50, children £3.50. +44 (0)28 2073 1938 discovernorthernireland.com Ireland’s Best 2020 71

CAHIR CASTLE, COUNTY TIPPERARY

Located on a rocky island on the River Suir in County Tipperary, Cahir Castle is one of Ireland’s largest and bestpreserved medieval fortresses. Much of the original defensive structures are still in place and the castle has retained its impressive tower and keep. First constructed in 1142, this was once the stronghold of the powerful Butler family and in the late 20th century the castle was named a National Monument and is now managed by the Office of Public Works. Guided tours can be booked in advance and visitors can also enjoy a 15-minute audio-visual film, ‘Cahir Castle and the Story of Irish Castles’, which provides information about the castle and offers an overview of the role of medieval fortresses in Irish history. Following the tour and film, make your way to the top of Cahir Tower for stunning views of the Irish countryside. OPEN: Year-round from 9am to 6.30pm in the summer months and 9.30am to 4.30pm or 5.30pm at other times. PRICE: Adults €5, children €3. +353 (52) 744 1011 heritageireland.ie

DERRYNANE HOUSE, COUNTY KERRY

Sheltered within a woodland at the very tip of the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry stands Derrynane House. Derrynane was the ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell, a great figure in modern Irish history who was known as a lawyer, politician and statesman. Having occupied the house for several generations, many relics of the O’Connell family remain in the house today and it served as one of Daniel’s greatest influences as the place where he spent his childhood and hosted many guests during his adult life and career. Today the house and 120 hectares of surrounding land make up the Derrynane National Historic Park managed by the Office of Public Works. In 1967, the house was officially opened to the public as a museum to commemorate the life of Daniel O’Connell. Visitors can view a chariot presented to Daniel by the citizens of Dublin in 1844, a collection of silverware, and his deathbed, which was transferred from Hotel Feder in Genoa many years after his death on 15 May 1847. OPEN: The house is re-opening in 2020, with guided tours available that last half an hour. PRICE: Adults €4, children €3. +353 66 947 5113 derrynanehouse.ie 72 Ireland’s Best 2020

DIRECTORY CASTLES & COUNTRY HOUSES

BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS, CORK

Blarney Castle, built nearly 600 years ago by Irish chieftain Cormac MacCarthy, is a world-famous landmark that has attracted millions of tourists and has become a national treasure. While many come to see the castle itself and the surrounding gardens, few pass up the opportunity to climb the steps of the tower to kiss a certain Stone of Eloquence. Blarney Castle is, of course, home to the legendary Blarney Stone which, when kissed, ensures you will never be lost for words again. World statesmen, literary greats and celebrities are among those who have flocked to the site for over 200 years to gain the gift of eloquence. The top of the castle also offers wonderful views over the 60 acres of parklands with beautiful gardens, walkways, waterways and arboretums. Enter the Poison Garden at your own risk where you will find poisonous and toxic plants from around the world, many of which were once used as herbal remedies. OPEN: Year-round from 9am to 5pm/6.30pm in the winter months and 7pm in summer. PRICE: Adults €15, children €6. +353 21 438 5252 blarneycastle.ie

DONEGAL CASTLE, COUNTY DONEGAL

Donegal Castle dates back to the 15th century and is located along the River Eske in the centre of the town of Donegal. For around 200 years, many of the castle buildings lay in ruins until they were almost fully restored in the 1990s. The castle was built by the chief of the O’Donnell clan in 1474 and it was in the clan’s possession until they left Ireland in the early 1600s. During the Plantation of Ulster, the castle fell into the hands of English Captain, Sir Basil Brooke, who made extensive additions to the structure. The Brooke family occupied the site until the 1670s when it was sold to the Gore dynasty. The buildings fell to ruin under the Gores before their restoration by the Office of Public Works. The castle is surrounded by a 17th-century wall and features a gatehouse; inside, it is furnished throughout with Persian rugs and French tapestries. OPEN: Daily 10am to 6pm from Easter to mid-September. The rest of the year, the site can be accessed from 9.30am to 4.30pm. PRICE: Adults €5, children €3. Contact: +353 (74) 972 2405 heritageireland.ie/en/north-west/donegalcastle Ireland’s Best 2020 73

PARKE’S CASTLE, COUNTY LEITRIM

Sitting on the shores of Lough Gill in County Leitrim, Parke’s Castle is a beautifully restored plantation castle built in the early 17th century. There is evidence of an earlier tower house thought to have been built in the 16th century by Sir Brian O’Rourke. After sheltering survivors of the Spanish Armada in the tower, O’Rourke was eventually executed in London for high treason. A man named Robert Parke was next to occupy the site, creating a larger fortress using stones from the old tower house. The house is protected by a bawn that stretches to the water’s edge and Parke added a new gatehouse to the east side. OPEN: Daily from 10am to 6pm, late March to late September. PRICE: Adults €5, children €3. +353 (71) 916 4149 heritageireland.ie/en/north-west/parkescastle

BUNRATTY CASTLE & FOLK PARK, SHANNON

Bunratty Castle is Ireland’s most complete and authentic medieval castle, which was built in 1425 and restored to its former glory in 1956. The site once served as a Viking trading camp back in 970AD and the current castle is the last of four to be built here by the powerful MacNamara family. The castle was restored in the 1950s when it was purchased some years earlier by Viscount Gort. Complete with 15th and 16th-century furnishings, tapestries and works of art, it is now a must-visit. Tourists are also transported back to life in Ireland over a century ago at the Bunratty Folk Park – a 26-acre reconstruction of village life in the 19th century. Experience everything from a fully licensed pub to a doctor’s house, all staffed by costumed characters. OPEN: Year-round, from 9am to 5pm. Last admissions are at 4pm to prepare for the nightly medieval banquet from 5.30pm. PRICE: Adults €13.25, children €11.50. +353 (0)61 360 788 bunrattycastle.ie

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DIRECTORY CASTLES & COUNTRY HOUSES

FLORENCE COURT, COUNTY FERMANAGH

Located around eight miles from the town of Enniskillen in County Fermanagh, and with Benaughlin mountain rising above it, the splendid stately home of Florence Court offers the perfect backdrop for a day of exploring for the whole family. The estate boasts an 18th-century Georgian mansion house and gardens, and a forest park offering 15km of trails and bridal paths. The house and demesne, formerly the home of the Earls of Enniskillen (the Cole family), remains one of the most important Georgian houses in Ireland, with a remarkable collection of Irish furniture and one of the best examples of Rococo plasterwork in the country. It is the creation of three successive members of the Cole family, powerful landowners in the Fermanagh area, and a tour is will enlighten you on the family’s story.

The foundations for the house were laid by Sir John Cole who named the house after his wife, Florence Bourchier Wray. The grounds also feature a pretty walled garden, an icehouse, sawmill and a thatched replica summerhouse. Don’t forget to visit the famous Florence Court Yew in the gardens – this treasured tree is considered the ‘parent’ of all Irish yew trees. OPEN: The grounds are open year-round, from 10am-7pm from March to November and until 4pm the rest of the year. The house is open for guided tours from 11am to 5pm from March to August. PRICE: Entrance to the grounds and forest park: adults £7, children £3.50. House tour tickets: adults £11.50, children £5.75. +44 (0)28 6634 8249 nationaltrust.org.uk/florence-court

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DISTILLERIES

DIRECTORY

THE SPIRIT OF IRELAND Our roundup of the top whiskey distilleries for tastings and tours

BUSHMILLS DISTILLERY, COUNTY ANTRIM

Initially registered as a distillery in 1784, Bushmills Distillery survived devastating fires, plus two World Wars to celebrate 400 years of whiskey production in the small Northern Irish town of Bushmills. Family and friends have worked here for generations, keeping to the company philosophy that hand-crafting small batches is the way to produce beautifully smooth Irish whiskey. Each year production exceeds four million litres of alcohol, triple distilled in the traditional Irish method. Substantial investment means the distillery has 10 stills running, producing a range of single malts at 10, 16 and 21-years-old, along with Original

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and Black Bush, two of its more notable blends. Bushmills Distillery welcomes around 120,000 members of the public through its doors every year, with guided tours offering insights into a working distillery and tutored whiskey tastings. Tours conclude with a dram in the distillery’s 1608 Bar. OPEN: 9.15am–4.45pm Monday to Saturday during the months of March to October (opens 10am in winter months), 12pm to 4.45pm on Sundays. PRICE: Adults £8, children (8-17 years old) £4.50. +44 (0)28 20 733 218 bushmills.com

DIRECTORY BEST DISTILLERIES

THE POWERSCOURT DISTILLERY, COUNTY WICKLOW

The Powerscourt Distillery started producing new spirit in June 2018 in the Old Mill House on Powerscourt Estate, Co. Wicklow. Dating back to the 1730s, this building has now been faithfully restored and extended to accommodate both production and visitor centre facilities. An adjacent warehouse for filling and storing casks helps to ensure a fully immersive distillery visitor experience. Set against the stunning backdrop of the Great Sugar Loaf mountain and enjoying a long heritage of local craftmanship, Powerscourt has become one of Ireland’s most treasured and frequently visited estates. Located within a 30-minute drive of Dublin city centre, nourished by pure Wicklow spring water, and enjoying a mild coastline climate, Powerscourt sets the perfect stage for distilling Irish whiskey. In November 2018 the distillery launched three new expressions of Irish whiskey under its Fercullen brand: Fercullen 14 Years Old single malt whiskey, Fercullen 10 Years Old single grain whiskey and Fercullen Premium Blend Irish whiskey. The old Irish name ‘Fercullen’ is given to the mountainous region of

the Powerscourt Estate and its use dates back to at least the 1300s. These three new whiskeys have been released by award-winning master distiller Noel Sweeney, whose experience and global recognition sit comfortably in a place renowned for attention to detail, craft and vision. Having carefully selected the aged stock used to craft these new expressions, Noel also helped to design the new plant, where he is responsible for all liquid production. OPEN: Daily. Winter opening arrangements may vary – check website. PRICE: Guided tours from €15. +353 1 506 5656 powerscourtdistillery. com

TULLAMORE D.E.W. DISTILLERY, TULLAMORE

Named after Daniel E. Williams, production of Tullamore D.E.W. has taken place all over Ireland, initially at Daly’s Distillery in Tullamore, then Powers in Dublin, Midleton Distillery and Bushmills. Only in late 2014, upon its acquisition by William Grant & Sons, did Tullamore D.E.W. have its own distillery, in Clonminch, on the outskirts of Tullamore. In October 2017, the company opened a new grain distillery and bottling hall so every stage of production could take place on one site, making Tullamore D.E.W. a true grain to glass whiskey. Behind Jameson, Tullamore D.E.W. is the biggest selling Irish whiskey brand. Set inside Tullamore D.E.W.’s Old Bonded Warehouse in the town of Tullamore, the visitor centre welcomes the public to follow the footsteps of Daniel E. Williams as he goes from stable boy to distillery manager. A variety of tours are available, with the centre also incorporating a gift shop and restaurant. OPEN: Monday to Saturday from 9.30am-6pm, Sundays and Bank Holidays from 11.30am-5pm. PRICE: Tour options range from €16 for the Curious Taster’s Journey to €90 for the Ultimate Distillery Experience. +353 57 932 5015 tullamoredew.com Ireland’s Best 2020 77

GLENDALOUGH DISTILLERY, WICKLOW

Distilling in Ireland has gone through something of a revival in recent years and Glendalough Distillery’s founders have very much been a part of the movement. Set up by a group of friends who share a deep passion for Ireland’s craft distilling heritage, the idea behind Glendalough Distillery is to make innovative spirits while staying true to Ireland’s distilling traditions. The Glendalough area is renowned for its early medieval monastic settlement that was founded in the 6th century by St Kevin, a legendary monk and the man on the distillery’s bottles. The craft of distilling spirits was nurtured in Irish monasteries around this time. The company has an exciting portfolio of whiskies, including the Triple Barrel and Burgundy Single Cask editions, which each won gold at the Spirits Business competition in 2019. Glendalough Distillery is not yet open for tours as it’s too small, but it hopes to move into a new home within the next two years where tours and tastings will be available. Until then, you can buy a bottle from The Craft Shop at the Glendalough Hotel. OPEN: Not yet open to the public, but watch this space. info@glendaloughdistillery.com glendaloughdistillery.com

TEELING DISTILLERY, DUBLIN

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The Teeling family’s relationship with whiskey started in 1782, at the beginning of the first Irish whiskey boom. Their namesake distillery, however, opened its doors for the first time in 2015 and thus became the first new distillery in Dublin for more than 125 years. Located in the heart of the city, the Teeling Whiskey Distillery has become the capital’s preeminent destination for anyone with an interest in Irish whiskey or Dublin’s longstanding association with distilling. The Teeling Whiskey Distillery hosts fully guided tours, during which guests can see all of the elements involved in Irish whiskey production. All visitors to the distillery receive a guided tasting with an expert distillery ambassador and there are a variety of whiskey tasting experiences available. For example, visitors can upgrade to a Teeling Trinity tasting and sample the Teeling Small Batch, Single Grain and Single Malt, or the Distillery Select tasting to sample the full award-winning range of Teeling whiskies. Visitors can also enjoy a drink at the Bang Bang Bar or purchase distillery-exclusive items in the gift shop. OPEN: Daily from 10.am–5.40pm (last tour). PRICE: Tours range from €15 to €150. +353 1 531 0329 teelingdistillery.com

DIRECTORY BEST DISTILLERIES

Irelandâ€™s Best 2020 79

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DIRECTORY BEST DISTILLERIES

THE JAMESON EXPERIENCE, CORK

Jameson’s world-famous Irish whiskey was originally distilled at the Bow Street Distillery in Dublin. The brand was born in the 1780s when Scottish businessman John Jameson moved to Dublin with his wife, Margaret Haig, to manage the distillery that was owned by her uncle. In 1975, production moved to the Midleton Distillery in Cork, an enormous facility built by Irish Distillers to produce its many brands. The move ended nearly 200 years of Jameson production in Dublin, but visitors can continue to visit a museum at the old site, which offers tours and tastings. With Midleton in Cork now home to Irish Distillers’ many brands, including Jameson, Midleton, Powers, Redbreast and Paddy, the impressive facility is well worth a visit. The Jameson Experience is a guided tour that brings the stories of Jameson’s heritage to life. Tours last 75 minutes and include a look around the distillery buildings and a toast to the founder with a sample of the famous spirit. OPEN: Daily from 9am–6pm March to October and 10am–6pm November to February. PRICE: Adults €20, under 18s €10. +353 (0)21 461 3594 jamesonwhiskey.com

Ireland’s Best 2020 81

The recently opened Slane Distillery can be found in the historic grounds of Slane Castle in the Boyne Valley. Brown-Forman, a leader in American whiskey since 1870, in collaboration with the Conyngham family of Slane, began construction of Slane Distillery in late 2015 and introduced Slane Irish Whiskey in mid-2017. This unique, triple-casked blend of Irish whiskey was sourced from other Irish distilleries and then matured using Slane Distillery’s signature ‘Triple Casked’ method, which uses virgin oak, seasoned whiskey and sherry casks. Now in full production, Slane Distillery has capacity to produce 600,000 cases of premium Irish whiskey per year. The working distillery features timber washbacks, state-of-the-art column stills, handbeaten copper pot stills and a small maturation warehouse, while the adjoining visitor centre offers an interactive and immersive journey through the fabric of the Conyngham family tapestry and the ancient art of whiskey making. OPEN: Year-round, daily from 10am–5pm. PRICE: From €18 for a standard tour to €60 for tour including ‘bottle your own’. A combined distillery and castle tour is available for €27. +353 46 903 0600 slaneirishwhiskey.com 82 Ireland’s Best 2020

SLANE WHISKEY, COUNTY MEATH

DIRECTORY BEST DISTILLERIES

ECHLINVILLE DISTILLERY, NEWTOWNARDS

Distilling at Kilbeggan has a long and varied history, which started over 260 years ago when the distillery opened its doors in 1757. The Old Kilbeggan Distillery is the oldest licensed distillery in Ireland and was founded by Matthias McManus. The company went through various ownerships before production ceased in 1957, at a time when much of Ireland’s whiskey production fell silent. However, John Teeling (then of Cooley Distillery) managed to revive distilling at Kilbeggan in the late 80s and it continues today. A visit to Kilbeggan Distillery is truly like stepping back in time as you discover artisanal whiskey distilling at its finest. Meet the families that owned the distillery, see the old equipment in its original positions and stroll across the courtyard to experience modern-day distilling. OPEN: Year-round, daily from 9am–6pm (check the website for tour times). PRICE: Tours range from €14 to €80. +353 57 933 2134 kilbeggandistillery.com

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DIRECTORY BEST DISTILLERIES

KILBEGGAN DISTILLERY, COUNTY WESTMEATH

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DIRECTORY BEST DISTILLERIES

ROYAL OAK DISTILLERY, CARLOW

Royal Oak Distillery (formerly Walsh Whiskey Distillery) was originally set up by founders Bernard and Rosemary Walsh following the success of their Hot Irishman company, which developed a recipe to create the perfect Irish coffee. In recent years though, the whisky-making side of the business has parted ways with the Walshes and has now moved into a new €25 million facility on the 18th-century Royal Oak estate in Co. Carlow, in what is known as the barley basket of Ireland. Steadily making a name for itself under its new brand, Royal Oak creates its spirit against the backdrop

of the magnificent Holloden House, which dates all the way from 1755, making it older than even the famous Guinness Storehouse. Royal Oak Distillery produces all types of Irish whiskey – malt, grain and pot still – in the one still house, making this a must-visit for distilling enthusiasts. OPEN: Tours are available seven days a week from March-October and six days a week out of season (closed Mondays). PRICE: Tour prices range from €15 to €40. +353 59 918 6653 royaloakdistillery.com Ireland’s Best 2020 85

SHOPPING

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BOTTLE IT

THE DISTILLERY STORE, DUBLIN

At The Distillery Store, they know whiskey. With years of experience under their belts, the Distillery Store team specialises in everything from Ireland’s creamy Pot Still style to Scotland’s best peated single malts and distinctive, complex Japanese whiskies. Looking for a glass of whiskey or a bottle to take home? The Distillery Store staff are on hand to share their knowledge and passion with every visitor that crosses the threshold. With this in mind, they provide bespoke and VIP tastings that cater for groups and events of all sizes. Located next door to Dublin’s famous Temple Bar pub and open seven days a week, be sure to go in 86 Ireland’s Best 2020

and try one of their whiskey and food pairings or just have a snifter with oysters, which are delivered fresh every day. Visitors can now bottle their own Temple Bar Cellar Cask whiskey in store too. From how whiskey is made, to its history and the current trends coming out of the whiskey industry, the Distillery Store team is there to answer any question you might have. Get an insight into whiskey from grain to glass from the experts, who are on-hand all week to guide you on your ongoing and exciting journey of whiskey discovery. +353 (0)1 6706441 thetemplebarpub.com/distillery-store

If you like what you try in Ireland’s distilleries and pubs, here are the places where you can buy some to take home

DIRECTORY WHERE TO BUY

CELTIC WHISKEY SHOP, DUBLIN

Nestled in the heart of Dublin city centre, the award-winning Celtic Whiskey Shop & Wines on the Green, is Ireland’s premier drinks emporium – owned and managed by Alistair Alpine, who over the years has developed strong ties with Irish whiskey and spirit producers. The shop’s whiskey and spirit specialists serve up free instore tastings daily and have been equipped with a wealth of drinks knowledge that they are only too happy to share. The shop can be divided into two halves: one side boasting a comprehensive whiskey range, including exclusive distillery bottlings and the award-winning Celtic Cask range. This section also houses a superb selection of Armagnacs, grappas, gins, rums and plenty inbetween – all of which can be shipped internationally. Meanwhile, the other side of the store has one of Ireland’s most eclectic wine selections, over 95 per cent of which has been directly sourced from some of the world’s very best vineyards. The Celtic Whiskey Shop also plays a pivotal role in the Irish drinks industry’s calendar by organising key events such as the Irish Whiskey Awards, Whiskey Live Dublin and Gin Experience Dublin. In March 2016, Celtic Whiskey Shop also launched its first bar, the Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder in Killarney. The bar hosts Ireland’s largest whiskey collection,

with around 1,200 whiskeys from across the globe, artisan Irish gins, craft beer, bistro-style food and daily drinks masterclasses. The most recent venture from the Celtic Whiskey brand, however, is the launch of the Celtic Whiskey Auction. This is an online auction site created by Ireland’s leading Irish whiskey experts for the benefit of the world’s whiskey collectors. Auctions predominantly feature Irish whiskey, as well as Scotch and world whiskies, spirits and wine. +353 1 675 9744 celticwhiskeyshop.com; celticwhiskeyauction.com Ireland’s Best 2020 87

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TOURS & CRUISES

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IN EXCELLENT COMPANY Take the stress out of travelling around with one of these tours and cruises – you may even make friends along the way

GET TO THE HEART OF IRELAND Heritage, tradition and culture

This year, established touring company Peter Sommer Travels launches its inaugural tour in Ireland, Exploring Ireland: The Heart of the Emerald Isle. The tour aims to deliver an insightful overview of Ireland’s heritage, tradition and culture. On the tour you’ll be taken to some of Ireland’s famous ‘must-see’ sights, such as the Megalithic tombs of Newgrange and Knowth and the monastic centre of Clonmacnoise, before exploring Dublin’s museums. Along the way, you’ll stay at some

carefully-selected hotels, including renovated castles, manors and townhouses, which evoke the country’s history and passion for hospitality. The price includes airport transfers, accommodation in a range of four and five-star hotels, minibus travel, entrance fees to sites, excursions with expert guides and all breakfasts, six lunches and seven dinners. PRICE: £4,815 per person for a 12-day tour. +1 855 443 3027 (toll-free US), +44 (0)1600 888 220 petersommer.com

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IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST Day trip through the historic Boyne Valley

Ireland’s east coast is a window to the country’s mystical Celtic past, featuring some of the oldest sites ever discovered on the island. The area is a hotbed of primeval and archaeological treasures, including Celtic high crosses and passage tombs carved with 6,000-year-old artwork. A day trip to the Boyne Valley, starting at Suffolk Street in Dublin, showcases the best of Ireland’s Ancient East. The first stop, Hill of Tara, was used as far back as the Stone Age for rituals and festivals and is one of Ireland’s most prized and sacred archaeological sites. Next, journey through beautiful countryside towards the ancient town of Trim and marvel at Trim Castle, the largest Anglo-Norman structure in Ireland built in the 12th century along the River Boyne. From here, the trip takes in the Loughcrew Cairns passage tombs, where a guide leads visitors through winding stone passageways to see the remarkable wall art. The tour then continues on to Fore Abbey, where St Fechin founded a Christian monastery in the 7th century. Finally, stop off at the ‘Hill of Uisneach’, the point at which the (then) five provinces of Ireland met, and where their kings would celebrate the ‘festival of fires’. The 10-hour trip returns to the starting point in Dublin in the evening. PRICE: From €45. +353 (0)1 907 3265 irishdaytours.ie

BELFAST CITY TOURS Taxi tour to see the sights

A taxi tour around the city of Belfast offers an insight into the colourful past of Northern Ireland’s capital city. Guides on Belfast City Tours (1-2 hours) tell the story of how Belfast grew from a collection of villages in the 17th century to being granted city status by Queen Victoria in 1888 as the city became a world leader in linen production, engineering and shipbuilding. At one time, the shipyard was the largest in the world and it was here that the city’s most famous product was built, RMS Titanic. Tours typically start in the city centre and head out towards the harbour where visitors are greeted by the iconic twin shipbuilding cranes, Samson and Goliath, which dominate the Belfast skyline. The area is now also home to the Titanic Studios where much of HBO series Game of Thrones is filmed. The route takes in such beautiful and important buildings as the City Hall, Queen’s University of Belfast and the government buildings of Stormont. These tours also provide background on ‘The Troubles’ – 35 years of conflict are depicted on murals dotted around areas of the city that were most affected, and the tour ends with a stop at the international wall, with murals featuring other conflicts from around the world. PRICE: From £33 for 1-3 passengers. +44 7879 795 445 belfastcitytours.com 90 Ireland’s Best 2020

DIRECTORY TOURS & CRUISES

EMBRACE THE WILD WEST Hiking and island hopping

If you’d like to explore Ireland’s rugged west coast and you’re not averse to getting some miles underfoot before sipping a pint of Guinness in front of a roaring fire, then the new Hiking and Island Hopping – Ireland’s West Coast tour from Wilderness Ireland could be for you. This guided hiking adventure allows you to see the Wild Atlantic Way from a new perspective, as you walk four of west Ireland’s islands, learning about local history and traditions on the way. Setting off from Galway, you’ll walk amid the otherworldly landscape of the Burren National Park, before visiting Inis Meáin in the Aran Islands, little-known Garumna Island, Inishbofin, (where you might spot sea birds and seals between the sea arches and sea stacks), and Clare Island, home to the 16th-century stronghold of pirate queen Grace O’Malley. PRICE: From €1,795pp sharing, including six nights’ B&B accommodation, daily lunches, two dinners, luggage transfers and guiding. +353 91 457 898 wildernessireland.com

CORK & BLARNEY CASTLE Cultural scenes by rail

Starting at Dublin’s Heuston Station, this cultural and historical day trip (13 hours) journeys through the Irish countryside by rail until reaching the city of Cork. From here, a short coach trip takes visitors out to the famous Blarney Castle, a medieval stronghold of southern Ireland and home to the legendary Stone of Eloquence, the Blarney Stone. For over 200 years, people have climbed the steps of the castle to kiss the stone, so as never to be lost for words again. Next, visit the village of Blarney for lunch and shopping before returning to Cork for a tour of the city. The trip concludes with a stop at the historic town of Cobh, located just 20 minutes from Cork on the coast. Cobh was the departure point for 2.5 million of the six million Irish nationals who emigrated to North America between 1848 and 1950, including Annie Moore and her two brothers who were the first to be processed at New York’s Ellis Island. Known as Queenstown at the time, this was also the final port of call for the Titanic before her maiden and, tragically, final voyage. On arrival at Cobh, visitors make their way around the Queenstown Story visitor attraction

and the restored Victorian railway station before boarding the train for a relaxing return journey to Dublin. PRICE: From £105. +353 856 0045 railtoursireland.com Ireland’s Best 2020 91

DIRECTORY TOURS & CRUISES

GAME OF THRONES Silver screen settings

From King’s Landing to Winterfell, Meereen to Dorne, any Game of Thrones fan will know their way around Westeros and many will have had the opportunity to experience the fictional continent first-hand on a visit to Northern Ireland’s north coast. With many of the filming locations from the popular HBO series dotted along the north Antrim coast, a fully-guided day trip with the aptly named Game of Thrones Tours makes this a trip to remember. Departing Belfast, the tour takes in Carnlough village to see the harbour that featured in series six, the Cushendun Caves, the Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, Larrybane Quarry and the Dark Hedges (the Kingsroad). Tour guides offer insight into popular characters, with entertaining tales and trivia along the journey. The trip takes in areas of outstanding natural beauty and UNESCO World Heritage Sites with stunning views and photo opportunities around every corner. Whether a Game of Thrones enthusiast or not, this tour around Northern Ireland’s most famous attractions is an unforgettable experience, shrouded in mystery and legend. PRICE: From £50. +44 28 9568 0023 gameofthronestours.com

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RAMBLING ON RATHLIN Island exploration on foot

Consider yourself a wildlife enthusiast, lover of the great outdoors or a keen explorer of history and heritage? Then a trip to Rathlin Island, just off the coast of County Antrim is a must. This place is a walker’s paradise thanks to quiet, well-surfaced roads and off-road tracks in permitted areas away from the hustle and bustle of life on the mainland. Guide, Paul Quinn, is a

native of the Causeway Coast who has spent years exploring Rathlin. He loves nothing more than to create bespoke itineraries and share his home with people who have taken the ferry across to the island to uncover its secrets. PRICE: From £15 per person for a 90-minute tour. +44 774 556 6924 rathlinwalkingtours.com

DIRECTORY TOURS & CRUISES

BELMOND GRAND HIBERNIAN Step aboard Ireland’s most luxurious sleeper train Ross Castle or a round of golf on one of Ireland’s premier courses. In 2020, Belmond will bring the warmth and ‘craic’ of traditional Irish hospitality straight to the station, with a pop-up pub on the platform in the style of a shebeen (an old illicit inn), where you can expect music, dancing and plenty of Guinness. PRICE: From €3,300 per passenger on a two-night Taste of Ireland tour. +44 845 077 2222 belmond.com

On your next trip to the Emerald Isle, spoil yourself with a Taste of Ireland on a bespoke luxurious train journey with Belmond. The Belmond Grand Hibernian, which takes just 40 passengers, includes sleeper carriages inspired by Dublin’s Georgian architecture, a first-rate Observation Car and a classic saloon, where you can mingle with other guests as you listen to live music and animated storytelling. It’s like being on your very own Agatha Christie adventure. There is a range of tours to choose from, with two-, four- and six-night itineraries, and off-the-rails excursions include a sunset kayak tour of Killarney National Park against the backdrop of

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BEAUTY SPOTS

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SCENE-STEALERS Escape to one of these gorgeous beaches or landscapes and admire Ireland’s bare-naked beauty

The MacGillycuddy’s Reeks is a mountain range that sits on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry and boasts the highest peak on the whole island of Ireland, Carrauntoohil. The mountain stands at 1,039 metres and offers a rewarding and challenging climb for keen hillwalkers. The most accessible and popular route among tourists is via the Devil’s Ladder, which is a strenuous, linear trail. Although badly eroded in recent years, this 12km hike is the shortest and most direct, with a choice of two starting points, one at Cronin’s Yard and the other at Lisleibane. The most popular of the two is Cronin’s Yard and from there walkers follow an obvious path until crossing the river via stepping stones to reach

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the Devil’s Ladder. A well-worn path and stone piles lead to the summit where a giant cross marks the top of the mountain and visitors can enjoy stunning views of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks and the Atlantic Ocean, weather permitting. Visibility can be poor at the top and walkers are reminded to take extra care when leaving the summit to retrace their steps back down the mountain safely. Cronin’s Yard, the popular start point, has parking, showers, camping and tea shop facilities and the nearby city of Killarney offers plenty of accommodation and shops to stock up on supplies for the six to seven-hour trek. Where? Cronin’s Yard, Mealis, Beaufort, Killarney

CARRAUNTOOHIL, KERRY

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The Comeragh Mountains in County Waterford are the spectacular setting for one of Europe’s finest examples of a corrie, or mountain lake. Carved out by glacier movement during the Ice Age, the Coumshingaun Corrie is a natural amphitheatre of serenity and splendour that can be explored via the popular 7.6km Coumshingaun Loop Walk. The perfect way to soak up the silence. The moderately easy, circular route takes around four hours to complete and traditionally starts from Kilclooney Wood, where car parking is available. From here, walkers enter a gate and cross a stream before following a track to the right (north side) of the mountain. The lake itself is considered the most famous landmark of these mountains. The pear-shaped body of water is about a mile long and is backed by dark cliffs rising to 365 metres above the lake. Endurance swimmers have been known to use the lake for training and the area is also popular with climbers. At one time, the cliffs here were a busy breeding site for golden and white-tailed eagles; today keen bird watchers are more likely to spot red grouse, hen harrier, wheatear, siskin and crossbill frequenting the area. The highest point of the Comeragh Mountains stands at 792 metres and is close to Coumshingaun. Hikers will enjoy stunning vistas over the plateau. Where? Kilclooney Wood, Kilclooney, Cutteen

Inchydoney is another of Ireland’s Blue Flag beaches and is located only a few kilometres from the town of Clonakilty in west Cork. The area is not short of stunning beaches, but Inchydoney is both beautiful and family friendly thanks to vast expanses of white sand, dunes, facilities and activities. Surfing is very popular along Ireland’s coastline and water sports are high on the agenda of visitors to Inchydoney. Surfing conditions are excellent here and the local Inchydoney Surf School takes advantage of the consistent waves to help beginners take to the waters, with instructors accompanying learners at all times. The school has changing room facilities and also provides wetsuits and surfboards. The nearby Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa offers local seafood dishes and treatments for those wanting to unwind after hitting the waves. A public car park is located close to the beach and lifeguards are on duty in the busy summer season. Where? Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa, Clonakilty, west Cork

COUMSHINGAUN LOOP WALK, WATERFORD

INCHYDONEY BEACH, CLONAKILTY

TORC MOUNTAIN, KILLARNEY

Drawing parallels to Benbulbin (or Benbulben), Torc Mountain also has links to Irish mythology and the legends of the giant Finn McCool, who led the Fianna warriors in the 3rd century. ‘Torc’ is the Irish word for ‘boar’, and the story goes that Finn McCool killed an enchanted boar on this mountain, which is how it got its name. The route to the summit of Torc Mountain, standing at 535 metres, is popular thanks to the large wooden sleepers that make the 7.5km walk very accessible. Starting at the upper car park located about 8km from the town of Killarney, the path leads to the top where walkers can enjoy panoramic views over County Kerry. From here, many local attractions come into view including Killarney and its three lakes, Muckross House and Gardens, Killarney National Park and the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks mountains. Visitors can take in the wonders of the Ring of Kerry before following the path back down the mountain to return to the car park. Don’t miss the famous Torc Waterfall at the base of Torc Mountain – this is a real tourist hotspot. Where? GPS 52.001428, -9.516809

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COUMEENOOLE BEACH, DINGLE

Coumeenoole Beach in County Kerry is situated on the Dingle Peninsula and a popular stop for those travelling along the Slea Head Drive stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way. The route offers beautiful views of the Blasket Islands with many heavenly beaches along the way, including Coumeenoole Strand. Swimming is unfortunately not recommended here, however patches of perfect sandy beach and the surrounding cliffs covered in lush grass make for great walking conditions; for the keen photographer and wildlife enthusiast, photo opportunities are endless here. Coumeenoole and the surrounding area is wild and untouched so local facilities are limited. The nearest village, Dunquin (Dún Chaoin), is an Irish-speaking town renowned for its surviving Gaelic culture where you will find many local traditions. This area is famed for being the location for much of the filming of David Lean’s 1970’s film Ryan’s Daughter with much of the film set left on site as a tourist attraction. Where? Coumeenoole North, County Kerry

We all know Ireland is a country steeped in myth and legend with tourist hotspots all over the island telling the stories of giants, fairies and saints. While Mount Brandon offers a challenging and scenic hike, it also has a story or two to tell. Thought to be named after Saint Brendan, the navigator born near Tralee in AD 484, almost 1,000 years before Christopher Columbus – some believe Brendan was actually the first European to discover America. Others argue that the mountain is in fact named after the earlier Pagan legend of Bran, the god of regeneration in Irish mythology. This mountain offers a true voyage of discovery along the preferred 8.5km route from the small car park at the Faha Grotto near Cloghane Village and the town of Dingle in County Kerry. From the grotto, walkers follow a well-worn path along the slopes of the Faha Ridge before taking a lower path around the valley until some loughs come into view. A winding path leads you safely to the top of a sheer cliff face. Once at the top, it is a short, gentle walk to Mount Brandon’s 952-metre summit where visitors can enjoy stunning panoramic views on a clear day. There are numerous routes to the top of the mountain so walkers can choose to return via the same path or by the Slieveglass Valley. Keep an eye out along the Faha Ridge and the valleys for plane wreckages from the Second World War, as there were four crashes in this area between 1940 and 1943. Where? GPS 52.236685, -10.254023

MOUNT BRANDON, KERRY

TRÁ AN DÓILÍN, GALWAY

The beach at Trá an Dóilín, is located near the village of Carraroe in County Galway along the famous Wild Atlantic Way. This Blue Flag beach is also known as Coral Beach and is of great ecological importance as it is made up of a fine and rare coralline alga known as maerl. Trá an Dóilín is located in an area of outstanding natural beauty popular for its clear waters and rock pools, perfect for snorkelling, swimming and, of course, rock pooling. The beach offers parking, toilet facilities and changing rooms, with lifeguards on duty in bathing season, making this a great location for families. As Carraroe is located within the Irish-speaking region (Gaeltacht) of Connemara, this area is well known for promoting Irish culture through song, dance and Irish summer schools. The village is famous for its traditional fishing boats known as ‘Galway hookers’, and every summer Carraroe hosts a festival showcasing these distinctive native Irish boats. During the festival, called Féile an Dóilín, the boats race and take part in regattas along the Connemara coast – a real spectacle for both locals and tourists alike. Where? Carraroe, County Galway

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BENBULBIN, SLIGO

Benbulbin and the nearby peaks of Kings Mountain and Truskmore share many similarities with Mount Brandon in that these mountains are steeped in myth, legend and historic references. Sometimes referred to as ‘Yeats Country’ after the famous writer, WB Yeats who spent his childhood holidays in County Sligo and is buried in nearby Drumcliff (see page 36), the area offers spectacular scenery, which hillwalkers can explore on the moderate climb to Benbulbin Head. Forming part of the Dartry Mountains, Benbulbin is located not far from the town of Sligo in the northwest of Ireland and its highest point at 526 metres offers stunning views across the region. The distinctive plateau of Benbulbin and its unique vertical gullies makes for a fairly straightforward scramble to the tabletop summit. There is no obvious track, but walkers are advised to avoid the more dangerous north face and approach the mountain by the gentle sloping south side or the slightly steeper east side. Benbulbin is the Anglicisation of the Irish name Binn Ghulbain, Binn meaning ‘peak’ and Ghulbain meaning ‘beak’ or ‘jaw’. Ghulbain is also thought to be associated with the king, Conall Gulban, a son of Niall of the Nine Hostages, who has links with this famous mountain. Benbulbin is also considered the dwelling place of Fianna warriors in the 3rd century, when warrior Diarmuid Ua Duibhne was supposedly tricked by the giant Finn McCool into fighting an enchanted bear, which pierced his heart with its tusk. Like Mount Brandon, planes crashed here during the Second World War, leading to many fatalities and wreckages. Where? GPS 54.367465, -8.474445 100 Ireland’s Best 2020

BENONE STRAND, LIMAVADY

This multi award-winning Blue Flag beach forms one of the longest in Ireland with 11km of golden sand and breathtaking scenery. Stunning views across Donegal can be enjoyed along this clean beach, free from rocks, seaweed and shingle, and backed by magnificent cliffs and mountains. Benone Strand is also within the Magilligan Special Area of Conservation – a real nature-lover’s paradise with one of the largest sand dune systems in the UK and Ireland, which is home to a wide range of wildlife. The beach is popular throughout the year for a variety of activities including water sports, fishing and swimming, with zoned areas and lifeguards on duty in July and August for the safety of visitors. Walkers also flock to the area to trek the length of the beach from the Benone Strand car park towards Downhill and Mussenden with beautiful views of Mussenden Temple perched on the cliff edge high above. The nearby Benone Tourist Complex offers a fun-filled holiday for all the family with caravan and camping accommodation, golf, tennis and a surf school. Where? Benone Tourist Complex, 53 Benone Avenue, Limavady, BT49 0LQ

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DOG’S BAY, GALWAY

Located only a couple of kilometres from the village of Roundstone in County Galway is one of Ireland’s finest beaches, Dog’s Bay (below). Just like nearby Gurteen Beach, this spectacular horseshoe-shaped bay boasts more than a mile of pure white, sandy beach and crystal-clear waters thanks to sand made entirely of seashell fragments rather than typical limestone. These two beaches lie back to back to form a tombolo jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean, making this an area of great ecological, geological and archaeological importance. The sand and grassland habitats are of particular interest with the beach formed by the shells of tiny sea creatures and the grasslands made up of a rare vegetation found only along Ireland’s west coast and Scotland. The area is very popular with water sports enthusiasts and holiday makers as they are sheltered from strong currents and naturally protected by the headland. Many people flock here in the summer months to swim in the sea, windsurf and kitesurf, and the headland offers walks with incredible scenery. It can be a little tricky to find the narrow road leading to Dog’s Bay and Gurteen Bay, but this location is a hidden gem worth putting your navigation skills to the test. Where? GPS 53.381776, -9.963110

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SLIEVE DONARD, COUNTY DOWN

ÂŠ CHRIS HILL PHOTOGRAPHIC/TOURISM IRELAND/FAILTE IRELAND

At 850 metres, Slieve Donard is the highest peak in the Mourne Mountains, and indeed the highest in Northern Ireland. Reaching the summit on a clear day offers breath-taking views over Ireland, the Irish Sea and beyond to the Isle of Man and Scotland. The Mournes are known for being compact and straightforward to navigate, with a variety of waymarked paths and facilities making them a popular choice among walkers. The most accessible route to the summit of Donard is from the nearby seaside town of Newcastle. From here, the car park at Donard Park marks the beginning of the trail taking walkers along the Glen River and up through old woodland in the earlier stages of the 5km trek to the top. On emerging from the forest, the path continues along the river until it reaches the saddle between Donard and the second highest peak, Slieve Commedagh. Here, the path reaches the Mourne Wall requiring walkers to turn left and follow the wall for the final, steep ascent. The Mourne Wall was built between 1904 and 1922 to mark the water catchment area of the Silent Valley Reservoir and stretches 35km alongside 15 mountains. Walkers can return via the same route. Where? Donard Park Car Park, Newcastle, County Down

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ERRIGAL MOUNTAIN & MACKOGHT LOOP WALK, DONEGAL

Located in the northwest of Ireland along the Wild Atlantic Way, Errigal Mountain is the highest peak in County Donegal and the Derryveagh Mountains. The mountain stands at 751 metres to the east of the village of Gweedore and overlooks Dunlewy Lough and the Glenveagh National Park. Despite its remote location, Errigal is one of the country’s most popular walking routes and a 6km loop walk offers a moderate to strenuous trip to the summit and the nearby Mackoght Mountain, also known as Wee (little) Errigal. The route begins at a car park and follows a path across boggy land before a steep climb up quartzite scree to reach the summit. On reaching the top, walkers can choose to take the same path back down the mountain or continue along an exposed ridge walk known as ‘One Man’s Pass’ to reach Errigal’s twin peak, Mackoght. Care should be taken along the ridgeway, particularly in windy weather. Errigal is part of a chain of mountains known as the ‘Seven Sisters’ and is the steepest and most southern of the group. Beautiful panoramic views of the Seven Sisters can be enjoyed on this route on a clear day, which takes around three and a half hours to complete. During a setting sun, Errigal is known for giving off a pinky glow caused by the mountain’s quartzite peak – what better way to round off an afternoon of walking in these mountains? Where? GPS 55.035085, -8.113267

TYRELLA BEACH, DOWNPATRICK

Tyrella Beach is located on the east coast of Northern Ireland within Dundrum Bay, near Downpatrick in County Down. The award-winning Blue Flag beach is renowned for its pristine waters and clean environment, making it a beach favoured by the locals. The wide sandy beach is 2km long and set within a conservation area of dunes, which offers scenic walks, where you can see local flora and fauna. Facilities and safety at Tyrella are excellent and it is a popular choice with families, thanks to off-beach parking, toilets and on-duty lifeguards during peak season. If you want to make more of a day of it, walk along the Dundrum Coastal Path, visit Dundrum castle or play a round of golf in nearby Downpatrick. Where? Tyrella Beach, Clanmaghery Road, BT30 8SU Ireland’s Best 2020 103

PUBS

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ENJOY THE CRAIC There’s a reason Ireland is famous for its pubs – lively, friendly and often the hub of the community, there really is no better place for a pint of the ‘Black Stuff’

With 2,500km of coastal road to discover along the Wild Atlantic Way, travellers will stumble across many a hidden gem and plenty of places of interest as they journey around Ireland’s stunning coast. Upon reaching west Cork and the beautiful seaside town of Clonakilty, you may just happen upon De Barra’s Folk Club, which has earned a reputation as one of Ireland’s greatest live music venues. In the last 30 years, musicians from all genres and generations have played at De Barra’s, feeding the folk club’s magical history. Long-standing associations with many of Ireland’s leading folk artists have contributed to the world-wide renown

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of this little venue. Visitors and locals can enjoy the bar’s offerings every night of the week with a variety of entertainment, a hearty lunch menu, including undeniably Irish offerings such as black pudding wraps and roast beef sandwiches, plus a fine selection of brews to wash it all down. Embrace the bustling atmosphere and feast your eyes on the plethora of photos, press cuttings and musical instruments that line the walls of this Irish gem, charting some of the many memorable performances that have taken place here. +353 (0)23 883 3381 debarra.ie

DE BARRA’S FOLK CLUB, CLONAKILTY

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MCGRORY’S, CULDAFF, DONEGAL

For those who like their music, McGrory’s has earned itself an excellent reputation for live performances, both in the back room and the front bar. The onus here is on traditional Irish music, and ranges from sounds that encourage a little foot-tapping to full-on dancing. McGrory’s is one of three pubs in the little coastal village of Culdaff on Donegal’s Wild Atlantic Way and has been in the same family for 90 years. As well as great music, it serves up tasty food – particularly the seafood – that is freshly cooked

and deliciously warming. Just what is needed after a blustery walk on the golden sands of Culdaff beach. There are also some cosy rooms to stay in. If you happen to be here on new year’s day, you could join in the annual swim at Culdaff beach when hardy locals take a dip in the Atlantic to raise money for local charities and come to McGrory’s afterwards to warm up with soup, coffee or something stronger. +353 74 937 9104 mcgrorys.ie

O’DONOGHUE’S, DUBLIN

O’Donoghue’s in the heart of Dublin is a well-known traditional Irish music bar with a rich history. Located not far from St Stephen’s Green, the pub was originally built as a grocery store in 1789 before operating as a full-time bar when purchased in 1934 by the O’Donoghue family. Ownership has changed a couple of times since then and the pub is now owned and run by publican Oliver Barden and his family. Frequented by many a famous name, O’Donoghue’s is popular with locals and tourists alike. The walls are adorned with drawings and photos of some of Ireland’s finest musicians who have played their part in

making O’Donoghue’s what it is today. The Dubliners, credited with kick-starting the crossover of traditional Irish music into the mainstream in the 1960s, started out performing here. They share their spot on the walls with the likes of Christy Moore, Séamus Ennis, Joe Heaney and Andy Irvine, to name a few. Visitors can enjoy live music at O’Donoghue’s seven nights a week. The pub also has guest rooms so you can take in the sights of Dublin by day and unwind with a music session in the evening. Book early on rugby weekends as it gets busy. +353 1 660 7194 odonoghues.ie Ireland’s Best 2020 105

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There’s a common theme when it comes to the best bars in Ireland: great beer, live music, rich history and ‘mighty craic’. The Cobblestone, located in one of Dublin’s oldest areas, Smithfield, is no exception. Owned by the Mulligan family, The Cobblestone is known for its laid-back and friendly vibes. Music runs in the blood, with five generations of the Mulligan family playing traditional Irish music. It is no surprise, therefore, that the pub is built on family traditions of respect for music and culture. There are free live music sessions each night of the week, but the bar also boasts a small adjoining venue, The Cobblestone Backroom, for paid courses, classes, gigs and other events. The Backroom often presents the sounds of bluegrass, country and folk, offers singer-songwriter nights, set dancing, cèilidhs, history talks and more. Located slightly off the beaten track, The Cobblestone is easily accessible by tram (just one minute from the Luas stop) or a 15-minute walk from the city centre. The Guinness is worth the trek alone to visit this ‘drinking pub with a music problem’. +353 (01) 872 1799 cobblestonepub.ie

Established in 1798, Johnnie Fox’s is one of Ireland’s oldest and most famous traditional Irish pubs. Situated high up in the Dublin Mountains in the peaceful town of Glencullen and just 30 minutes from Dublin city centre, Johnnie Fox’s is famed for being the highest pub in the country. The pub is also well known for its entertainment and in the past would have hosted many an impromptu live music session. It was also commonplace to encounter a storyteller or two who would take their place by the open fire on a cold winter’s evening to tell their tales. As well as a fine selection of beers, spirits and wines, Johnnie Fox’s is home to an award-winning seafood kitchen that champions local artisan food producers. Sample everything the pub has to offer by booking the ‘Johnnie Fox’s Hooley Experience’ – an evening of food, music and entertainment from the pub’s famous Irish dancers. +353 (01) 29 55 647 jfp.ie

JOHNNIE FOX’S PUB, DUN LAOGHAIRE

THE COBBLESTONE, DUBLIN

THE BEACH BAR, SLIGO

The name ‘Beach bar’ conjures images of a small shack serving up cocktails in tropical climes, but this traditional Irish bar and restaurant in County Sligo offers up a very different experience. Perched between the beautiful, unspoiled Aughris beach and the Ox mountains, The Beach Bar is an old-style, thatched roof pub with a 300-year history. The family-run business welcomes everyone from thirsty surfers taking cover from the Atlantic waves with a refreshing beer, to weary travellers resting tired feet by an open fire. The Beach Bar hasn’t changed much over the years, making visitors feel part of its long history while still offering something to suit all tastes. Live music sessions range from modern style to traditional sessions, with musicians welcome to join in every Saturday night. Local ingredients are sourced by the kitchen’s award-winning chefs to 106 Ireland’s Best 2020

bring a wide selection of dishes to hungry guests. The local beef and fresh seafood (as expected) are not to be missed at this glorious seaside location. Should visitors wish to stay the night, ensuite rooms are available. +353 (0)71 917 6465 thebeachbarsligo.com

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TIGH NEACHTAIN, GALWAY

Tigh Neachtain’s bar, located in the centre of Galway city, is one of the oldest in the area and steeped in local history. The site at the corner of Cross Street and Quay Street was the former home of prominent animal rights activist Richard Martin. Since opening its doors in 1894 the bar has been a meeting place for an eclectic and diverse mix of customers. Tigh Neachtain has a strong connection with local arts and musical communities so will be a good place to base yourself during Galway’s tenure this year as the European Capital of Culture. The bar will often play host to the best home-grown talent to celebrate their wonderful offerings, with old posters for plays and past festivals adorning the walls and live music every week from some of the finest Irish musicians. The bar’s food and drinks menu showcases the best from the area with oysters and wild Atlantic chowder sure to warm the cockles of your heart. Enjoy beer brewed on site and take your pick from a selection of over 130 whiskeys including both Irish and Scotch varieties. Whether enjoying a cold beer on a sunny July day, or taking cover by the fire on a chilly winter’s night, there’s never a bad time to visit Tigh Neachtain. +353 (0)91 568 820 tighneachtain.com

MATT MOLLOY’S, WESTPORT, COUNTY MAYO

The sound of traditional Irish music spilling from a bustling bar is commonplace around Ireland, but happen upon Matt Molloy’s in Westport, County Mayo, and you really are in for a treat. Owned by Matt Molloy himself, famed around the world for his flute playing with The Chieftains, his pub is well known as a live music hotspot. The pub has remained small and cosy to allow a sense of intimacy during live music sessions, remaining true to this style of traditional music. Matt Molloy’s draws crowds from around the world, everyone from the famous to the obscure standing side by side to drink in its sights and sounds; and you may even be lucky enough to spot the man himself. When Matt isn’t touring the world, he loves nothing more than to join in. For the price of a pint, you can enjoy his music at what will feel like your own personal gig. With live music seven days a week, Matt Molloy’s will undoubtedly offer a taste of a traditional Irish music session. The only challenge will be making your way through the crowds to get to the bar. +353 (0)98 26655 mattmolloy.com 108 Ireland’s Best 2020

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DUKE OF YORK, BELFAST

Concealed down a narrow, cobbled alleyway, the Duke of York isn’t the easiest of pubs to find in Belfast’s Cathedral Quarter, but it is certainly worth the game of hide and seek. The quaint street has become one of Belfast’s most photographed areas and so it can prove difficult to snap its beauty without capturing a photobombing tourist or two. As you await your moment, the Duke of York will offer a friendly welcome and plenty of entertainment, not to mention many a photo opportunity inside. With many modern bars and clubs in the surrounding area, this one stays true to its traditional roots. The pub has been owned by Willie Jack since the early 1980s and after being rebuilt following an explosion in 1972, the exterior mirrors the 1950s look it had before with advertising signs and hanging baskets of colourful flowers. Inside, the walls are lined with beer mirrors, trays, murals, bric-a-brac and Belfast phrases as Willie tries to preserve Belfast and Ulster’s proud brewing and distilling history. This traditional bar offers a huge selection of

whiskies and beers from Ireland and beyond, and you may be lucky enough to catch a live music session from a rising star. It all started here for the likes of Snow Patrol and Una Healy from the Saturdays, who still count the Duke among their favourite places to enjoy the ‘craic’. +44 (0)28 9024 1062 dukeofyorkbelfast.com

MULLIGAN’S, DUBLIN

There has been a pub at this Dublin site on Poolbeg Street since 1820, but it didn’t bear the Mulligan name until being leased by John Mulligan in 1854 for £20 a year. That said, there hasn’t been a Mulligan here since 1932 when the pub was bought by Cavan-born Cusack brothers, Con and Tommy. Nevertheless, this true Dublin pub has been perfectly preserved by its various owners throughout the years who have resisted modernisation and current pub trends; Mulligan’s is something of an Irish cultural phenomenon. The pub has a unique and colourful history having hosted many a famous name, including Judy Garland, Seamus Heaney, James Joyce and John F. Kennedy. For decades, performers from the nearby

Theatre Royal mingled with The Irish Press journalists from next door to create stories that are still regaled to eager listeners to this day. Just like the barmen of old, the friendly, speedy and sharp-witted staff will serve up one of the best pints of Guinness to be found in the city and that’s no mean feat, we can tell you. +353 (0)1 6775582 mulligans.ie Ireland’s Best 2020 109

PLACES TO STAY

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BE OUR GUEST Here are some of the most special places to stay on the island of Ireland in 2020

ASHFORD CASTLE, COUNTY MAYO

This stunning 800-year-old castle in County Mayo is a former home of the Guinness family and one of Ireland’s top hotel destinations. On arrival at Ashford Castle, guests are greeted by grand stone gates that welcome you into the estate grounds, home to 350 acres of ancient woodland and Ireland’s first school of falconry. The castle reopened to the public in April 2015 following a two-year renovation programme, which saw this 13th-century building restored to its former glory. Ashford Castle is now, once again, one of Europe’s most prestigious hotels, and guests have 83 luxurious rooms, suites and hideaway cottages to choose from. Accommodation combines modern 110 Ireland’s Best 2020

comforts with the castle’s original features, with beds draped in the finest of fabrics. Elsewhere, interiors are the height of decadence, dine in style in the George V Dining Room, or have a more relaxed dinner in the atmospheric Dungeon. You may even spot a familiar face as the hotel often hosts royalty, dignitaries and celebrities who come to enjoy the five-star experience, which includes fine dining and a state-of-the-art spa. In addition, staff can organise water sports, fishing, tennis and golf, horse-riding, archery, tree-climbing or clay pigeon shooting. +353 94 954 6003 ashfordcastle.com

DIRECTORY PLACES TO STAY

Today, all of Ireland’s lighthouses are automated and many have been restored by the Irish Landmark Trust to offer quirky holiday accommodation. One such example is Wicklow Head Lighthouse, which has safeguarded this stretch of the Irish Sea since 1781. It is close to many popular attractions, such as Wicklow Gaol, the monastic site of Glendalough and the Wicklow Mountains. The structure has six octagonal rooms in total, including two double bedrooms, a bathroom, kitchen, sitting room and a separate WC. Surrounded by the sea on three sides, guests can enjoy stunning views after climbing the 109 steps to the kitchen at the top. The Irish Landmark Trust offers a number of holiday options in restored lighthouses and keepers’ cottages by the sea. +353 1 670 4733 irishlandmark.com

GALGORM SPA & GOLF RESORT, BALLYMENA

Just 30 minutes from Belfast and the north Antrim coast, this luxurious hotel and spa is set amid lush parkland that includes a Par-72 championship course within the castle estate. The Galgorm has gained an excellent reputation for its 122 guest rooms: 48 are deluxe rooms, junior and signature suites, and service is unapologetically first-class. In 2019 it was named Best Luxury Spa Resort in Northern Europe at the World Luxury Hotel Awards. It also recently launched its Cottage Collection – a selection of 11 country-style cottages for those looking for a little more privacy. The hotel was once the Victorian villa home of local mill owners and today guests can choose to dine in the formal three AA Rosette River Room (where afternoon tea can also be enjoyed), the more rustic Fratelli Ristorante, Pizzeria & Bar, the brasseriestyle Gillies Grill, or unwind in McKendry’s whiskey bar. For many though, a visit to Galgorm is all about its spa and thermal village, which includes robed dining in the restaurant in the Halo Dome, numerous riverside hot tubs, plus indoor and outdoor pools, steam rooms and saunas. Plans are also afoot for a rooftop spa. +44 28 2588 1001 galgorm.com Ireland’s Best 2020 111

BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE HOTEL, COUNTY GALWAY

On the outskirts of Galway, this magical woodland hideaway feels a million miles away from the hustle of the city, while still offering reasonable access to some of the many events taking place there this year to mark Galway’s tenure as City of Culture. Flanked by the craggy mountains of Connemara with the Twelve Bens mountain range rising behind it, and perched on the edge of a river teeming with salmon, you could be forgiven for thinking you’d taken a wrong turn and reached the Scottish Highlands, but make no mistake: this is rural Ireland. Located on the popular Wild Atlantic Way driving route, the detached 18th-century three-storey country house has been adapted and added to over the years yet still retains much of its original aesthetic. Inside, there are several lounges to relax in, with no shortage of open fires to warm up by, and many of the grand bedrooms overlook the river. When it comes to dining, the Owenmore Restaurant is among Ireland’s finest restaurants, while the cosy Fisherman’s Pub and Ranji Room, with wood panelling and Chesterfield sofas, is a more relaxed place to sample local seasonal produce, such as fresh fish landed at Rossaveal, or slow-cooked pork that comes from the hotel’s own pigs. Making the most of its 700 acres, the hotel can organise a range of activities, including hiking, clay pigeon shooting and fly-fishing. +353 953 1006 ballynahinch-castle.com

COOPERSHILL, COUNTY SLIGO

This handsome house, which dates from 1774, and is set within 500 acres of grounds, has been in the O’ Hara family since its inception, with the 7th generation of the family, Simon O’ Hara currently in situ. It’s Simon’s wife, Christina, who is responsible for the delicious food served up in the restaurant, with ingredients sourced as locally as possible; venison comes from the hotel’s own deer herd and many of the vegetables and fruit are picked within metres of the dining room. The bedrooms, which are bright and welcoming, are decorated in a traditional style with lots of antique furniture throughout and period features such as Victorian rolltop baths. There are tea and coffee-making facilities but no TVs and no radios, so make the most of the silence. If you are looking for a little more action, follow the W B Yeats trail (see page 36), take a horse-riding trek or visit Sligo’s seaweed baths. +353 71 916 5108 coopershill.com

DIRECTORY PLACES TO STAY

KILLEAVY CASTLE, COUNTY ARMAGH

Shrouded by dense woodland at the foot of Slieve Gullion, this Grade A-listed historic building was first built by notable British architect George Papworth in 1836 before being transformed into a gothic castle that eventually fell into disrepair. Thankfully, much of the façade remained intact and the home has been restored to its gothic-style heyday, complete with the towers, Tudor-style windows and medieval inspired door. The four-star hotel, which includes 45 bedrooms, a spa, restaurant, bar and café, opened its doors in April 2019. In its kitchen, the farm to fork ethos is adhered to, with fresh vegetables and herbs picked from the hotel’s walled garden and estate-grown Cheviot lamb and longhorn beef featuring on the menu; the hotel is committed to sustainability, with a Zero Plastic endeavour. Plus, it’s all just over an hour’s drive from Dublin in one of the most underrated rural regions of Ireland. +44 28 3044 4888 killeavycastle.com Ireland’s Best 2020 113

THE G HOTEL & SPA, GALWAY

If you want to be based in Galway itself in the city’s celebratory year and are looking for supreme service and style, then this is the place to stay. A bright, modern and luxurious hotel, it has little of the stuffiness that you might expect at a top-end hotel, but all the amenities, including Galway’s only five-star spa. Designed by Galway-born milliner Philip Treacy, it is arguably Ireland’s most flamboyant hotel, with pink and purple walls and furnishings and no end of mirrors and gleaming chrome, but don’t let that put you off. Rooms are very comfortable and range from a respectable 30sqm superior room, right up to a palatial 120sqm penthouse. Gigi’s Restaurant has two AA Rosettes, making it the smart choice for dinner before heading into the city centre to enjoy the craic at Galway’s brilliant bars and pubs. +353 91 865 200 theghotel.ie

GLENLO ABBEY, COUNTY GALWAY

Just 4km from Galway City and overlooking the River Corrib, Glenlo Abbey is a two-storey five-bay detached house founded in the 18th century by the Ffrench family – one of Galway’s most famous tribes. The décor inside is exquisite, offering the most opulent backdrop to your holiday. Guests can partake in falconry, archery or fishing on Lough Corrib during their stay or test their skill on the 114 Ireland’s Best 2020

estate’s nine-hole Championship golf course. Alternatively, sink into plush red velvet chairs at the hotel’s Abbey Movie Theatre. For a real treat, book the hotel’s Pullman Experience, which combines a hotel stay with a four-course gourmet meal aboard one of two Orient Express carriages that sit within the grounds. +353 91 519 600 glenloabbeyhotel.ie

Get closer to what’s important

Killeavy Castle Estate is the perfect antidote to the modern fast paced world. As the centrepiece of 350 acres of mixed farm and woodland in County Armagh’s stunning Ring of Gullion, it’s the ideal place to escape, retreat and unwind. Warm local hospitality married with luxurious comfort, sumptuous food and fresh mountain air combine for a perfect rural retreat. Our Estate includes a 45 room boutique contemporary hotel with a fine dining restaurant, bar, spa and meeting facilities.

Distance to Airports

Belfast City: 1 hour, 47 miles Belfast International: 1 hour, 52 miles Dublin: 1 hour, 58 miles

Distance to Cities

Newry: 10 minutes, 7 miles Belfast: 56 minutes, 44 miles Dublin: 75 minutes, 65 miles

12 Ballintemple Road, Killeavy, County Armagh, BT35 8LQ • Tel: +44 (0)28 3044 4888 • Email: info@killeavycastle.com

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