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EXPLORE See more of the world with Viking / Autumn 2019 £3.95

ALASKAN ADVENTURE Discover natural wonders on an ocean cruise

TOP 10

GLOBAL GARDENS

Divine

DOURO

Venture into the heart of Portugal’s wine region

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WELCOME

Welcome to our autumn edition of Explore More We have thoroughly enjoyed a fantastic summer of events, and more than anything have enjoyed meeting so many of our past guests at events such as the Game Fair and the Scottish Game Fair, Greenwich Music Time and Opera Holland Park. We have also loved welcoming many of you on your visits to our ocean ships around the country. It has been wonderful to be able to offer so many guests the chance to win tickets to these events, and we hope everyone has enjoyed it as much as we have. Another of our highlights was winning a gold medal at this year’s RHS Hampton Court Palace Garden Festival. There are pictures of our garden and Will Williams, the designer, on page 39. Continuing the garden theme throughout the issue, we are thrilled to announce the winner of Viking’s Favourite Garden competition. We were very impressed with the standard of entries and it was a difficult job to pick the winner! Read more about that garden on page 36. As usual we have a range of travel features to transport you around the world, from the wilds of Alaska to the Douro Valley in Portugal. We have also rounded up 10 gardens from across the globe that are well worth a visit, on page 28. We look forward to seeing more of you at events coming up soon. Until then... Best wishes,

Managing Director, Viking UK

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Like us: facebook.com/VikingCruisesUK

Email us: uk-marketing@vikingcruises.com

Find out more about the Viking Explorer Society on our website

AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Co n t e n t s more

EXPLORE

IN THIS ISSUE... 10 THE DOURO IN DETAIL Fascinating facts and sublime sites abound along this river, as Writer John Wilmott discovers

See more of the world with Viking / Autumn 2019 £3.95

ALASKAN ADVENTURE

22 FINAL FRONTIER Derek and Irene Mepham discover

Discover natural wonders on an ocean cruise

epic landscapes and wildlife on an immersive Alaska cruise that presented no-end of photographic opportunities

TOP 10

GLOBAL GARDENS

Divine

DOURO

Venture into the heart of Portugal’s wine region

32 HOW DOES YOUR GARDEN GROW? We reveal the green-fingered winners of Viking’s Favourite Garden competition 40 OPERA SEASON We talk to Michael Volpe, general director at Opera Holland Park, about his career highlights

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Cover: Tlingit carving, Juneau, Alaska Photo: © instagram.com/ derekcmepham

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N 2019

42 RHINE GETAWAY Travel writer John Wilmott explains how to combine historical sites with modern-day comfort 74 A GUIDING STAR Norwegian opera singer Sissel Kyrkjebø discusses becoming a godmother to Viking Jupiter

50 48 FEATURES

REGULARS

16 AUTUMN SPLENDOUR Explore New England and Canada against a backdrop of fiery fall foliage

VIKING NEWS The latest news and events

YOUR WORLD Letters and photos from our guests

18 CATHERINE THE GREAT Learn more about the Russian empress before a new TV series based on the ruler airs

28 TOP TEN GLOBAL GARDENS Our line-up reveals where the world’s most glorious gardens can be found

50 POSTCARD FROM FAVAIOS The small town proves a

48 BEAUTIFUL BOTANICALS Discover how to update your autumn wardrobe with floral prints and leaf motifs

54 KARINE’S TRAVELS Karine Hagen shares her love of

gardens and reveals how she connects with the great outdoors

delightful stop-off on our Portugal’s River of Gold cruise

62 BOOK CLUB Our pick of the best nature-inspired reads

53 DIVINE DOURO Hear the call of charming cities, scenic

68 CITY GUIDE: BOSTON The birthplace of the American

58 BEHIND THE SCENES Discover the British dishes Karen Burns-Booth created as a Guest Chef on board Viking Sun

70 CITY GUIDE: SALAMANCA Architectural beauty and cosmopolitan flair combine in this must-visit Spanish city

65 MOVIE MAGIC As Downtown Abbey transitions to the

72 CITY GUIDE: STRASBOURG Feel as though you’ve

countryside and medieval marvels along this glittering river

big screen, we catch up with the show’s Jim Carter

Revolution abounds with vibrant modern appeal

stepped into a fairy tale in Alsace’s pretty medieval capital

AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Viking NEWS A round-up of the latest travel news and events from the world of Viking

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUTUMN 2019

We are thrilled to announce that Explore More has been nominated for Best Consumer Travel Magazine at the British Travel Awards! EX PLORE Visit the C o E PLOR ol Cuba website EX art of travel The to vote for us: See more of the worl d with Vikin g

/ Sprin g

2019 £3.95

DISCO

VER TH IS MA r 2019 £3.95 GICAL WITH Viking / Summe ISLAN C U LT U the world with D PA C RE AN See more of KED D HIST O RY

DISCOVER

H D THROUG THE WORL

NS A NEW LE

PHO TOG MA STE RAP HY RCL

ASS How to capture the essence of your travels

TRA VEL TRE NDS

THE AFRIC AN DREA M

Our top destinati ons for 2019

How to see s South Africa’ Garden Route in style OFC_FINAL

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DANU BE DELIG HT

A voyage of t enlightenmen

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Discover vibrant and colourful Istanbul on a range of new journeys departing in 2021. Choose from enriching itineraries, including Ancient Mediterranean Treasures, an eight-day journey from Istanbul to Athens (or the reverse) and Ancient Adriatic Treasures, a 15-day ocean cruise from Venice to Istanbul (or the reverse). Both trips take in the ruins of Troy, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the idyllic islands of Rhodes and Crete, and feature overnight stays in Istanbul and Athens. Alternatively, the 22-day Iconic Mediterranean Treasures departs in October 2021 from Istanbul to Barcelona and takes advantage of the quiet season.

VOTE FOR US!

DISCOVER ISTANBUL

NEWS

DATES FOR THE DIARY Come and see us at one of these fantastic events:

8 October 2019 Classic FM Live, Royal Albert Hall, London

13 – 17 November 2019 Country Living Christmas Fair London, Business Design Centre

21 – 24 November 2019 Country Living Christmas Fair Glasgow, SEC Centre

EXPLORING EGYPT THE VIKING WAY Inspired by the design of our award-winning Viking Longships, in September 2020 we will be launching Viking Osiris, which has been built specifically for the Nile. To tie in with this we’ll be offering two new pre-cruise extensions to enhance your knowledge base of Egyptology prior to arriving in Cairo. These five-day extensions to our Pharaohs &

Pyramids itinerary will offer Privileged Access to archives and exhibits in London and Oxford not normally accessible to the public. “Egypt has inspired explorers for generations,” said Torstein Hagen, Chairman of Viking. “We look forward to introducing the historic treasures of the region to even more Viking guests.”

RHS CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW GOLD WIN We are very proud to have won a Gold medal for The Art of Viking Garden at RHS Chelsea Flower Show this year. Designed by Paul HerveyBrookes, the garden was inspired by artworks found on board Viking's ocean ships. Left: Viking’s Wendy Atkin-Smith with designer Paul Hervey-Brookes at RHS Chelsea Flower Show

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

VIKING JUPITER VISITS SCOTLAND FOR THE FIRST TIME

In June 2019, our newest ocean ship, Viking Jupiter, sailed into Edinburgh for the first time, as part of its maiden season in the Mediterranean and Northern Europe. Guests on the Into The Midnight Sun cruise calling at the city can visit the Royal Mile, taking in Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyrood House, as well as the 18th-century New Town, on an included tour.

INTRODUCING VIKING VENUS

Following this year’s launch of Viking Jupiter, Viking Venus will set sail in January 2021. Our seventh sister ship, it promises sleek Scandinavian style and contemporary, uncluttered calm – the perfect sanctuary for relaxing after a day’s adventures. Viking Venus will start by sailing the Viking Homelands, British Isles Explorer, Into the Midnight Sun, In Search of the Northern Lights and Iberian Explorer itineraries. AUTUMN 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Your WORLD

We catch up with where you’ve been and what you’ve seen on your Viking cruises...and where you’re off to next

YOUR LETTERS We had an excellent cruise on Viking Jupiter, visiting eight countries in 15 days. The crew was extremely friendly and efficient. The cooking was absolutely superb and the facilities were attractive. An excursion was included with each port visited and the guides were knowledgeable. Our stateroom was immaculate and well equipped, and the free minibar was restocked daily. We enjoyed all the live entertainment as well as the gym, spa and swimming pools. This is our second cruise with Viking and we are looking at a third in the near future. Brian Millson

Formula for success We have thoroughly enjoyed seven Viking cruises and have two more booked. It shows you have the right business formula at Viking, so we’d like to thank you all for making our holidays great! We’re looking forward to more happy times soon. Tom and Sue Middleton

Food glorious food My husband and I have recently returned from our Viking river cruise. I am a coeliac and require a gluten-free diet. I felt that I must compliment Viking and all of the restaurant staff for looking after me regarding this. The cruise itinerary, the staff and the standard of gluten-free food was first class. Hilda E McCormack

The warmest welcome I would just like to thank Viking, not only for the total experience but also for the staff of Viking Tialfi who were wonderful. The reception we received when 8

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUTUMN 2019

we came through arrivals at the airport was wonderful, and on arrival at the ship our luggage was swiftly taken and put in our suite before we could say anything. Superb efficiency. The welcome received when we stepped on board made any nervousness on my part (not having cruised before) disappear and we were taken to our suite straight away and everything in the room and the facilities were explained. What my husband and I found extremely useful was the daily delivery of the Viking News – useful information about the places we were going to plus interesting facts. How useful, how interesting and very impressive on Viking’s part. Our first Viking experience was extremely memorable and we will be looking for another river cruise in 2021. Whenever we see anyone and they ask about our trip we are very quick to tell them to try a Viking river cruise as they are wonderful. Doreen and Mick Ridden

A perfect cruise Last night we returned from Oslo having enjoyed our three-day extension there at the end of our cruise. I am writing to you with pleasure to report it was a perfect cruise – the weather was most unlikely for Iceland and Norway: not a drop of rain in 12 days! Mind you, my wife reminded me I have always been lucky with the weather throughout my career in filming! The cruise was excellent. The crew was in good spirits and we had some reunions with some members from our cruise last year. We were especially well looked after by Darwin, the guest services manager, and Mr. Singh, the manager of The Chef’s Table. Peter Sasdy

S TA R L E T T E R

Having recently returned from our Douro cruise on Viking Helgrim I had to write to thank all the staff and crew for making our holiday so enjoyable. The crew was very professional and it just goes to show what an amazing group of people you have in your employment. I would also like to thank everyone who helped my husband with his wheelchair and made sure we got as much from the trip as we could. We realised that there would be trips that we would not be able to go on but your team went above and beyond to make sure we experienced everything, even bringing us back almonds from one excursion. Thank you so much for an amazing holiday. Gordon and Patricia Guest

You could win...

...a £50 M&S gift voucher if your letter is chosen as our star letter. Email us at uk-marketing@ vikingrivercruises.com

PHOTOS: © AWL IMAGES/ISTOCK

A trip to remember

LETTERS

Y O U R P H O T O S #MyVikingStory Follow us on Instagram @VikingCruises for more inspirational images

Cruise highlights Clockwise, from top left: 1. Bruges is distinguished by its canals, cobbled streets and medieval buildings. GeofotoF 2. Viking Sun, Viking Sky and Viking Sea in Bergen. Mjobacker 3. In Skagway, Alaska, we flew by helicopter to the Denver Glacier to go dog sledding. Sheila Davies 4. In the shadow of Vesuvius in Pompeii, Italy. GeofotoF 5. Catherine Palace is a stunning site and we had a stunning tour with Viking. Kerrie Anne Peck 6. Enjoying our first day on the Cities of Lights cruise. Debra Janezeck 7. Great safari while on Viking’s Along Africa’s Western Shores itinerary. Norman Charles Jary 8. Vineyards grow on steep banks overlooking the river in Germany’s Mosel wine region. AsWeSawIt 9. The best cruise I have ever been on – Alaska has so many wonderful things to see. Justin Davidson

Hit List

YOUR MESSAGES enjoyed the excursion to San Gimignano and a fun lunch with lovely wines on an organic farm. Ann Moffatt

Fantastic time on the Hemming! The river is beautiful and I cannot rate the crew highly enough! Well done Viking... again! Pauline Barrett

We have just returned from a Viking River Cruise from Lyon to Provence on Viking Heimdal. We just wanted to say how impressed we were with the way the staff dealt with our gluten-free and non-cow’s milk diet. The attention to detail was very impressive and it made our holiday. Thank you very much. Linda and Peter Davis.

Went to Pisa with Viking last year it was a great trip. I particularly

I have just been on your Portugal’s River of Gold cruise, loved it.

Strongly recommend to new river cruisers. Lesley Brunink We’ve done your Viking Homelands cruise and loved every minute if it – such wonderful and varied port stops, great food and a lovely cabin. We were lucky with the weather too. Can’t recommend it highly enough. We have booked on three river ones including one next month. Diana Marchand Your Grand European Tour cruise was the most amazing experience I’ve ever had! Fabulous holiday! Sue Wright

Can’t wait for our third Viking cruise to Alaska and we’ve booked Imperial Jewels of China for 2020. We’re also on the list for The Mekong in 2021. Can’t recommend Viking highly enough. Linda Howe

AUTUMN 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

The Douro

in detail

Travel writer John Wilmott uncovered a mix of fascinating history and jaw-dropping beauty on a captivating cruise-and-stay journey through Portugal and Spain

T R AV E L

n this 50th year since the first moon landing, we’ve been saturated with images of astronauts. Yet the last place you’d expect to see a spaceman is on the portal of an ancient cathedral. The building of Salamanca’s New Cathedral began in 1513, but in 1992 the magnificent structure needed some restoration work. With permission from the diocese, the stone-carvers added a couple of modern touches to the ornate vine-leaf and animal depictions already surrounding the cathedral’s main entrance.

On the next column to the astronaut, the carvers’ other playful signature is a wicked-looking beast eating an ice cream, said to represent the students of Spain’s oldest university, found in the city. Salamanca, called the Golden City because its grand sandstone architecture glows in the sun, was the furthest point on my Portugal’s River of Gold journey. Leaving Viking Helgrim where the Douro crosses the border, we had boarded the smart Viking coaches that accompanied us throughout our journey to drive

up through the olive and almond groves and across into Spain. I love the little nuggets of information, like the astronaut and the tiny frog – a good-luck charm similarly on the façade of Salamanca’s university – that are dug out by the best guides. We also learned that the devil is in these details, notably at the city’s 15th-century House of Shells. In its inner court, I noticed the well in the centre had been placed at a wonky angle. Poor workmanship? No, explained our guide; the devil is attracted to perfection, so the

This page: The incredible urban skyline of Porto

AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N 2019

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/AWL IMAGES

T R AV E L easy to be dazzled by the view of Portugal’s capital from the elegant rooftop bar of our five-star hotel on the main boulevard. Our introductory tour sensibly avoided the busiest attractions – it was high summer – and took in the waterside Belém district and its excellent Maritime Museum in a wing of the Jerónimos Monastery. The ancient city of Coimbra made a captivating stop on our drive to Porto and produced the first of the mini-stories I adore. In the grandiose library of Portugal’s oldest university – an inspiration for Harry Potter’s Hogwarts – lives a family of bats. When the last visitors have left for the day, the curtains are closed architects deliberately disrupted the guide who was dressed in the black and the bats emerge to devour any symmetry to keep him at bay. sombrero and cape of the enigmatic insects that might otherwise feast The cities on this cruise may figure in Sandeman’s logo. on the priceless books. be glorious, but for me it was very The terrain is ideal for growing Viking Helgrim was waiting much the diversity of landscapes grapes because the flaky shale rock on the quay at Vila Nova de Gaia along the river that was the biggest holds water during the dry summer. and, once on board, I immediately revelation. Twisting sharply through Rows of olive trees help stabilise the made for The Sun Deck to take in a deep valley, the Douro is never soil on the vertiginous slopes. The the views of Porto’s tall, colourful less than exuberantly scenic. At pollen from carefully planted rows buildings climbing the hill just times, there were just a few feet of of rosemary and thyme falls on the across the Douro, with the elegant water to spare either side of the ship grapes, fine-tuning their flavour. ironwork of the Dom Luis I Bridge as Captain Manuel spanning the river. steered us through Exploring the The vines have been planted on every a narrow canyon. city the next day, It is called the there was a jolly patch of land, however impractically River of Gold summer buzz in the steep and clefted the contours because when the air, with tourists and sun strikes the water locals alike sharing at a certain angle, the Douro – like On a terrace high above the alfresco tables to enjoy the views Salamanca – takes on the lustre Douro, the guide taught us how over glasses of port. Potter author of the precious metal. Far more to appreciate the port. “Stick your J.K. Rowling was also influenced prolific, though, is the colour nose in the glass. Make friends with by Porto and although the snaking green, from the emerald forests to the wine. Ask it how it’s feeling!” he queue to visit the revered Livraria the incredible swathes of terraced said, to much amusement. Lello bookshop had me turning my vineyards smothering hills that rise I started my journey in Lisbon, tail, the city still cast its spell. sharply from the deep blue river. almost 200 miles south of Porto, With ample free time, I walked Along the UNESCO World where we enjoyed a two-night across the top level of the bridge to Heritage stretch, the vines have pre-cruise hotel stay. It was very a breathtaking viewpoint beside been planted on every patch of land from the waterline right up to the crests of the hills high above the river, however impractically steep and however clefted the contours. Many of the grapes are, of course, used to make port wine. At the start of the cruise in Porto I admired the old rabelo boats which, until the the Douro’s dams and locks were built, transported the wine barrels from the vineyards downstream to the city. Today the rabelos are symbolic, with giant sails proudly displaying the names of the city’s famous old port houses. Later, at the quinta of one of these producers, I learnt more of those little details that decorate this journey, this time from the estate’s

Clockwise from far left: Hilltop village Castelo Rodrigo; vineyards growing along the Douro; stunning views of the river from the deck of Viking Helgrim; Igreja da Serra do Pilar, one of many churches in Porto

AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N 2019

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

T R AV E L

the Serra do Pilar monastery, with the city’s soaring churches, noble palaces, flitting boats and bustling riverfronts laid out in front of me like an animated painting. Most guests were still asleep when Viking Helgrim glided out of the city in the morning, no doubt due to the super-comfy beds in the staterooms. I awoke to the surprise of a sandy river beach outside my private veranda, a few locals already in place with their towels to catch the morning sun. My first engagement with the Douro’s wine history came on an included tour to Mateus Palace. Its 18th-century Baroque façade adorns the teardrop-shaped bottles of Mateus rosé, but the estate never produced this supermarket favourite. Another wine producer long ago bought the rights to the image, apparently to the chagrin of the palace’s current owners who deal only in fine vintages. These mini-stories continued on our excursions. A Portuguese tour escort joins each Viking coach, and in my case it was Diogo, whose endearingly British accent was adopted from watching the BBC. At the medieval hilltop village of Castelo Rodrigo, he told how the priest adopted a young stork which had hurt itself falling from its nest atop the bell tower. After treatment, the bird became a village mascot until it was savaged by a dog. The stork was stuffed and now has pride of place in the fire station, whose officers helped with its rescue. After returning from Salamanca, I wished to sail again through the striking gorge that makes up the

narrowest part of the navigable Douro, so I chose to miss the next excursion and spend the morning on The Sun Deck, my feet dangling in the plunge pool to keep cool. It was a compelling episode. The giant boulders clinging to the side of the canyon yielded to yet more vineyards, their giant signboards echoing those of the rabelo sails I had seen in Porto. However, when a new friend on board raved about the visit to a traditional bakery followed by a fabulous meal at a distinguished quinta, I wondered if I had made the right decision. Never mind. I’d already indulged in a Portuguese feast devised by our ship’s chefs, loading my plate with courses of sardines, shrimp pasties, roast duck and crispy custard tarts. One of my highlights of this Douro cruise was the final excursion to Lamego, an old town just a short drive above the river. The coaches took us up to the sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios. If the twin-towered Rococo shrine is a marvel, its position at the top of a tremendous cascade of 686 zig-zagging steps is even more so. I could not resist walking back down. Emblazoned with beautiful azulejo tile murals, fountains and statues of kings, this must be the most impressive staircase in Europe. If the minutia of facts, legends and historical tales enriched this cruise for me, it was complemented by Viking’s own superb attention to small but valuable matters. I did not expect the company to have a dedicated team, with its own

desk at the hotel, in Lisbon. And a flash of your Viking Longship’s card at Salamanca’s New Cathedral and the Museum of Lamego, gets you free entry because Viking generously sponsors their upkeep. I witnessed a demonstration of the opening of a bottle of port using hot tongs in the ship’s lounge but, needing a pre-dinner shower, missed the sharing of its decanted contents. Not to worry – bar tender Gergana had saved me a glass. On our final full day of the cruise, I reluctantly missed dessert to watch Viking Helgrim sail back into Porto, this time the iron bridge framing the delightful city. Once we had docked, I listened to a local folk band performing live in the lounge, gazing out of the picture windows to watch the sun setting over the city, its golden light picking out the delicate details.

Clockwise, from far left: A colourful street in Coimbra; Mateus Palace; relax in the pool while enjoying scenic views; traditional rabelo boats rest along the banks of the Douro in Porto

A 10-day Portugal’s River of Gold journey from Lisbon to Porto starts at £2,145pp

AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

ITINERARY

Autumn Splendour Witness the fiery hues of autumn on this historical and cultural exploration of Canada and New England Above: Quebec is known for its beautiful lakes

DAYS 1 & 2 / MONTREAL, CANADA

DAY 7 / GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE

Start your cruise in Montreal. Known as the cultural capital of Canada, this metropolis, situated on an island in the St. Lawrence River, is buzzing with theatres, art galleries and foodie haunts. Top places to visit include the Old Town, the Old Port and the heights of Mount Royal Park, perfect for a panoramic view of the city.

There’s more chance to experience your ship’s modern amenities as you head towards your next desitnation.

DAY 3 / QUEBEC CITY, CANADA Arrive in Quebec City, one of North America’s oldest settlements imbued with an irresistible French flair. The Old Town is a good place to begin exploring. Don’t miss Château Frontenac, Place Royale square and the Second Empire-style Parliament building.

DAY 4 / SAGUENAY, CANADA Once a disparate region of boroughs, Saguenay was established as a city in 2002. Learn more about the city, which has rich fur-trading and timber industries, during a live performance of storytelling, dance and song.

DAY 5 / ST. LAWRENCE RIVER, CANADA Make the most of the elegant on-board facilities as your Viking ship travels down the St. Lawrence River, an important waterway that allows vessels to travel from the Atlantic Ocean to the Great Lakes of the Midwest.

DAY 6 / GASPÉ, CANADA PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

A stunning drive along the rugged Gaspé Peninsula, from the town of Gaspé to the monolithic Percé Rock, reveals the region’s natural beauty. An optional whale-watching boat trip or a hike through the Forillon National Park are also great ways to spend the day. 16

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N 2019

DAY 8 / HALIFAX, CANADA The site of the first permanent European settlement in the region, Halifax is now the cosmopolitan capital of the Nova Scotia province. A sightseeing tour enables guests to explore landmarks such as the hilltop Fort George, St. Mary’s Basilica and the Old Burying Ground.

DAY 9 / NOVIA SCOTIA COAST The third and final day of scenic cruising takes place along the staggeringly beautiful coasts of Nova Scotia and Maine as your ship crosses the Gulf of Maine.

DAYS 10 & 11 / BOSTON, UNITED STATES As the birthplace of the American Revolution, Boston is rich with history. Uncover all the major sites, including the Old North Church, where Paul Revere hung his tell-tale lantern, and the Old South Meeting House, where Samuel Adams started the Boston Tea Party.

DAYS 12 & 13 / NEW YORK CITY, UNITED STATES New York City provides a fitting finale, with a half-day excursion introducing all the big sights, such as Times Square, the Empire State Building, the 9/11 Memorial, the Rockefeller Center and St. Patrick’s Cathedral. The 13-day Eastern Seaboard Explorer itinerary from Montreal, Canada, to New York City, United States, or in reverse starts from £5,190pp in 2020

Sail from Canada to America on Eastern Seaboard Explorer The fusion of French and Canadian flavours in Montreal. The taste of fresh oysters on Prince Edward Island. Whales breaching in the pristine waters of the North Atlantic. Children playing on the shoreline of Cape Cod. The heritage of Halifax. The brilliance of Boston. The style of New York City. From the vibrant French-Canadian cities of Montreal, Quebec and Saguenay to Americaâ€™s capital of culture, this voyage along the east coast of North America is rich in natural beauty, history and modern-day triumphs. Rather like the ship you sail on.

2020 Eastern Seaboard Explorer Thirteen days from ÂŁ5,240pp Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available, departing on selected dates in September 2020. Prices valid until 30 September 2019. Single supplements 100%. Please note that duration of cruises shown is the cruise only. Total duration including flights may be longer. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N 2019

C U LT U R E

Catherine

Great the

Intelligent, ruthless and revolutionary, Rebecca Bradbury explains how Catherine the Great was instrumental in pushing Russia into the modern world

PHOTOS: © ALAMY

Opposite: On the throne for over 30 years, Catherine the Great was one of Russia’s most influential rulers

here are two things that Christianity) now bearing the husband planned to divorce her, may surprise you about name Ekaterina, or Catherine. she worked with her lover, Grigory Catherine the Great. Orlov, a military officer, and her Firstly, her name wasn’t THE PATH TO POWER other allies to overthrow him. After Catherine and, secondly, she wasn’t The marriage between Catherine just six months on the throne, Russian. The woman who would go and Peter was unhappy from the Peter III was deposed in a coup on to rule Russia for 34 years was, start. He was reportedly neurotic, d’état and murdered eight days later. in fact, born Sophie von petty and small-minded, whereas It can’t be proved Catherine was Anhalt-Zerbst in Prussia behind his death but, with on 21 April 1729. And Holding European culture close to Peter out of the picture, she although a daughter of an cially became the new her heart, Catherine surrounded offi obscure German prince, empress of Russia on she was by no means herself with like-minded people 22 September 1762. considered as a top-tier member of the European nobility. she was clearheaded, bright and FOREIGN AFFAIRS But her ambitious mother’s driven. Both had affairs, with Truly dedicated to her adopted campaigning paid off when Sophie Catherine taking up at least country, Empress Catherine II (as was invited to Russia by Empress three lovers during her husband’s she was now known) intended Elizabeth, a daughter of Peter the lifetime. Yet, despite their fraught to make Russia a prosperous and Great. Unmarried and childless, the relationship, they did have one son, powerful state. During the early Russian monarch had selected her Paul, nine years into their marriage. years of her reign, she reduced the nephew Peter as heir and was now Following the death of Empress power of the clergy, and continued in search of a suitable bride. Sophie Elizabeth, Catherine’s husband to preserve friendly relations with Prussia, France and Austria. made an immediate impression on became Tsar Peter III in January In 1764, she specified Poland’s Elizabeth, if not on her intended 1762. An unpopular ruler, his borders and installed a former lover husband, and the couple were reign did not last long, and this (Stanislaw II Augustus) as King of wed on 21 August 1745 with the was mainly down to Catherine’s Poland – Catherine was renowned bride (a new convert to Orthodox interventions. Believing her AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

PETER III 1 7 2 8—1 7 6 2 R 1 7 6 1—1 7 6 2

CATHERINE II 1 7 2 9—1 7 9 6 R 1 7 6 2—1 7 9 6 PAUL I 1 7 5 4—1 8 0 1 R 1 7 9 6—1 8 0 1

FAMILY TREE

ALEXANDER I 1 7 7 7—1 8 2 5 R 1 8 0 1—1 8 2 5

NICHOLAS I 1 7 9 6—1 8 5 5 R 1 8 2 5—1 8 5 5

ALEXANDER II 1 8 1 8—1 8 8 1 R 1 8 5 5—1 8 8 1

ALEXANDER III 1 8 4 5—1 8 9 4 R 1 8 8 1—1 8 9 4

NICHOLAS II 1868—1918 R 1894—1917

for handsomely rewarding her lovers (or ‘favourites’) with titles and land as well as parting ways amicably with them and remaining life-long friends. Catherine also expanded Russia’s borders, continuing the process of Westernisation begun by Peter the Great. Two successful wars waged against the Ottoman Empire brought Crimea under Russia control and with it long-desired access to the Black Sea. In total, she added 200,000 square miles to Russian lands, becoming known as a major world power along the way.

ART AND CULTURE

Catherine the Great made huge strides in other areas, too. When she first took the throne, Russia was seen as a provincial wilderness by many Europeans. To change this negative view, the monarch became a patron of literature, science, the arts and education, and her time on the throne is considered by many as Russia’s age of enlightenment. Early in her reign she began a 15-year correspondence with one of her favourite authors: the French enlightenment philosopher Voltaire.

The pair discussed everything from disease prevention to Catherine’s love of English gardens, and he was not the only great mind Catherine wrote to – she also exchanged letters with the likes of Diderot and D’Alembart. Holding western European philosophies and culture close to her heart, Catherine wanted to surround herself with like-minded people within Russia. She believed that a ‘new kind of person’ could be created by inculcating Russian children with European education and therefore consulted a variety of educational pioneers. Catherine sent Russian artists and scholars abroad to learn from Western examples while foreign architects, artists and scientists came to St. Petersburg to enrich the city’s appearance and cultural life. She wrote comedies, fiction and memoirs herself – and even had a go at composing an opera. Art was another area of interest for the ruler and, in 1764, she purchased a set of 225 paintings, including works by Rembrandt and Frans Hal, from a Berlin dealer. With these works she founded the

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Hermitage and went on to collect and commission thousands of additional pieces for the museum.

SERFDOM AND REBELLION

PHOTOS: © AWL IMAGES/ISTOCK

Other attempts at reform weren’t as satisfying for Catherine. Before her accession, she had planned to emancipate the serfs, but very quickly realised this would never be tolerated by the conservative land owners whom she depended on for

support. So instead, she ended up giving the nobility more control. Such actions resulted in 160 documented uprisings in the first 10 years of Catherine’s reign. The most dangerous was the Pugachev Rebellion. It was led by Yemelyan Pugachev, who gained momentum by pretending to be Catherine’s dead husband, Peter III. Despite some big military victories, Pugachev and his supporters eventually suffered a crushing

defeat in August 1774 and their revolution fell apart. These social failings, however, cannot overshadow the other successes Catherine achieved throughout her reign – nor can her infamous line-up of favourites. One lover of note, though, is Grigory Potemkin. Not only was the Russian military leader the most powerful of her romantic attachments, but he was also said to be the greatest love of her life. A new four-part drama starring Helen Mirren, on air this autumn, will follow the end of Catherine’s reign and the pair’s unique relationship. Thirty-four years after assuming the throne, Catherine the Great passed away on 6 November 1792. Succeeded by her son, Tsar Paul I, she continues to be source of national pride for modern-day Russians. One of her biggest legacies is to have been a woman who became synonymous with a momentous era in the development of her country. Catherine the Great, starring Helen Mirren, starts on Sky this Autumn

Clockwise from far right: Catherine the Great founded the Hermitage Museum, home to the Jordan Staircase; the ornate Catherine Palace was built by the wife of Peter the Great, but Catherine the Great undertook many renovations; the Hermitage Museum now has a vast collection of more than three million pieces

Clockwise, from above: Horsetail Falls on Thompson Pass in Valdez; a grizzly bear swimming at the Fortress of the Bear sanctuary in Sitka; Hubbard Glacier; historic Creek Street in Ketchikan

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FINAL FRONTIER When Derek and Irene Mepham travelled to Alaska on Viking Orion, the epic landscape and wildlife offered endless photographic opportunities

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This page, top to bottom: Cruising Alaska’s Inside Passage; a great blue heron

hen we first sailed the Inside Passage 40 years ago there were hardly any cruise ships, so we took the MV Columbia ferry from Vancouver to Skagway and slept on the deck under deck heaters. Today, we were pleased to be boarding the fantastic Viking Orion in Vancouver to cruise the Inside Passage to Alaska in style and far more luxury, having booked the trip more than two years ago, before the ship was even built! It was certainly worth waiting for with Viking Orion. The ship offers amenities in abundance, spaciousness, verandas for every stateroom, and quality and tasteful decor. What’s more, the crew were second to none and the food was the best we have ever had on any holiday. We were excited to be sailing the gentle waters of The Inside Passage, which extends 500 miles along the Alaskan panhandle through Seymour Narrows, a 5km section of Discovery Passage. For most of its length, the channel is only 750m wide, which the Captain into Creek Street, strolling along the board walks. navigated superbly. The tree line hugs the water’s edge, With just 14 miles of roads, Sitka is the only town making it ideal habitat for wildlife to live in peace in Southeast Alaska facing the Gulf of Alaska and has against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains, which long been inhabited by the indigenous Tlingit people. we could observe from the Explorers’ Lounge. The town grew to become the capital of Russian Alaska One evening early on and remains of those days in the trip, the restaurant The restaurant suddenly erupted can be found in the Russian suddenly erupted with Cathedral. We with “oohs and aahs” as fountains Orthodox “oohs and aahs” as many visited the Alaska Raptor of water spouted out of the ocean... Centre, where injured birds guests stood pointing at are nursed and released fountains of water spouting it was our first whale sighting back into the wild, and we out of the ocean. I counted got to see American Bald 18 of these whale blows; Eagles up close. After exploring nearby forest trails, they were possibly from humpback whales and it was we visited the Fortress of the Bear sanctuary. The bears our first whale sightings of the voyage. are looked after in a spacious, natural setting, and the Our stop at Ketchikan, set among soaring coastal mountains and sloping woodlands of Tongass National viewing platforms enable you to see them up close. Next we visited Juneau, the only US capital that is Forest, introduced us to the Tlingit people. Home to inaccessible by car, and one of the most picturesque the largest collection of standing totem poles in the cities in the world with its fjord-like terrain and world, Ketchikan is also the gateway to America’s 50th state and known as the “Salmon Capital of the World”. dramatic backdrop of rugged mountains and vast We explored beyond the lively waterfront and ventured glaciers, the closest being Mendenhall Glacier.

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This page, clockwise from above: A Tlingit totem pole mural; a sea urchin in the Seward Sea Life Centre; Alaskan waters are great for watching orca whales in the wild

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PHOTOS: © INSTAGRAM.COM/DEREKCMEPHAM

Clockwise, from above: Medenhall Glacier in Juneau; Derek and Irene Mepham reach the White Pass Summit; the pair got to see American bald eagles up close; Steller sea lions in the Kenai Fjords National Park; an expertly restored gold mining house in Skagway

Skagway bought back memories, as we were last to get one of my favourite photos of the whole there 40 years ago on a camping trip to follow the old trip; what a memorable day. Chilkoot gold rush trail. Skagway still has its old board Viking Orion arrived at Hubbard Glacier ahead walks and about 100 of the gold rush buildings have of schedule and although it was an overcast day, it been restored. The narrow gauge railway follows the old enhanced the blue of the ice; what a magical sight. Yukon route to historic White Pass. The old gold rush The captain expertly manoeuvred the ship so everyone cemetery has been preserved and is next to a stunning could get a good view of the six-mile-wide glacier. waterfall. On our return with Viking, we viewed White More breathtaking scenery appeared as we travelled Pass summit – a 2,865-foot elevation – courtesy of a the deep-cut fjord in Prince William Sound, arriving in sightseeing bus trip, which offered stunning views of Valdez. The glacial Chugach Mountains surround the the glaciers, snow-capped city, which is better known The bear reappeared at the crest of as the southern terminus of mountains and Bridal Veil Falls. It was quite magical. the hill and peered down at us. I the Trans-Alaska Pipeline, Icy Strait Point is a carrying oil from Prudhoe managed to get one of my favourite Bay to the Artic coast. After recreated village outside of the small town of an oil spill in 1989 the photographs of the whole trip Hoonah, located on the wildlife is making a strong island of Chichagof. It is a comeback and visits from former salmon canning and packing station restored Viking ships have helped boost the local economy. by the local Tlingit people. We went on a hike in the Cruising along Resurrection Bay towards Seward, Tongass National Forest which has far-reaching views our final stop, we marvelled at the mountains which across the Spasski river valley. On the way back to the come right down to the water – a fitting finale to what bus there was movement in the bush, the guide halted must be one of the last great frontiers for a cruise. us and motioned for us to be quiet. Suddenly a bear’s An 11-day Alaska & the Inside Passage journey head appeared. Just as we thought the animal had in 2021 starts at £4,790pp moved into the undergrowth, he reappeared at the vikingcruises.co.uk crest of the hill and peered down at us. I managed AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

TOP 10

GLOBAL GARDENS Join us to discover the secrets of the world’s most glorious gardens, from cactus beds to Arctic botanicals

SANSSOUCI, GERMANY

Built in 1747 by Frederick the Great, King of Prussia, as a summer palace and garden to rival Versailles in France, Sanssouci (which translates as ‘without care’) is a Rococo gem that sits above vine-clad terraces. It became a sanctuary for the king, a place he could withdraw from the world with his beloved dogs. Its location and layout reflect the pre-Romantic ideal of harmony between man and nature.

In Vila Real you can visit the extraordinary Mateus Palace – the building famous for appearing on the Mateus Rosé wine label. A perfect example of Baroque architecture, the palace was designed to present a series of vistas and mirror images. Meanwhile, its delightful gardens are among the most beautiful in Europe, with topiaries, box hedges, elegant statues and a spectacular tunnel of cedars. A highlight is the lake, a body of water built in the 1950s to reflect the palace’s main façade and home to a João Cutileiro sculpture. If you are visiting in winter, you can also see the grand old camellias in bloom. 28

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PHOTOS: ©ALAMY

MATEUS PALACE GARDENS, PORTUGAL

GARDENS

IMPERIAL PALACE, CHINA Beijing’s vast Imperial Palace, built in 1417 during the Ming Dynasty and also known as the Forbidden City, is the ultimate in majestic grandeur. Step through the Gate of Terrestrial Tranquility into the Imperial Garden, the private garden of the former royal family which features a pair of 400-year-old consort pines, symbolising the harmony between the emperor and empress.

SCHÖNBRUNN, AUSTRIA

One of the most important monuments in Austria, Schönbrunn is also one of Europe’s grandest palaces. Discover opulent rooms and period furniture, as well as beautiful formal gardens. Unsurprisingly, the whole ensemble, which includes the palace and park, with its fountains, statues, palm house and zoo, is now a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site.

ARCTIC-ALPINE BOTANICAL GARDENS, NORWAY Tromsø, the largest city in northern Norway, is set against a backdrop of snow-topped mountains. The city lies more than 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle, yet the climate is comfortably warmed by the Gulf Stream. You can visit the Arctic Cathedral and walk through Tromsø’s Arctic-Alpine Botanical Gardens, the world’s northernmost botanic garden which features plants from the polar regions and high mountains. The beautiful giant Tibetan blue poppies are always a favourite with visitors. AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

SHUKKEI-EN, JAPAN

Located in Hiroshima, Shukkei-en garden translates to the ‘shrunken scenery garden’ which is an apt description for this intriguing landscape. Modelled on the beautiful landscape of Xihu, China, the gardens date back to 1620 and are full of charming miniature forests, valleys and mountain landscapes. Take a leisurely stroll along its winding garden paths and around the central pond, which is surrounded by several traditional tea houses.

KEUKENHOF, THE NETHERLANDS Every spring, botanists, flower fans and tourists alike make the annual pilgrimage to Keukenhof, the world’s largest flower garden, which began life in the 15th century as a herb garden. Here, you can see an unforgettable seasonal display of more than seven million tulips, daffodils, narcissus, hyacinths and other spring bulbs, as well as bluebells and orchids. Plus, its 80 acres are dotted with lovely greenhouses, streams and ponds. Remarkably, it is redesigned every year to keep up with current floral trends. 30

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Boasting mountains of rainforests and glorious beaches, St. Kitts is the larger of the two Caribbean islands that form the nation of St. Kitts and Nevis. From its capital, Basseterre, you can visit the beautifully restored 18th-century Fairview Great House, once the home of a French military commander, as well as the great grandfather of Virginia Woolf. There are breath-taking views out to sea, and you can stroll in the garden through a tropical oasis filled with flowers, trees and shrubs bursting with colour and fragrance.

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY

FAIRVIEW GREAT HOUSE, ST. KITTS

GARDENS

PARK GÜELL, SPAIN

Visitors to Barcelona can enjoy some of the surreal works created by architectural genius Antoni Gaudí at Park Güell. Covering almost 50 acres, the park was built between 1900 and 1914 and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. Many of the attractions in the park were originally designed for aristocrats to enjoy, but today the otherworldly creations, such as the multi-coloured tiled mosaic dragon fountain at the entrance, are accessible for all to experience. Visitors will also be treated to great views of the city below.

MONA VALE, NEW ZEALAND

This serene setting in Christchurch is now a public park based around a homestead and gate house, both of which have recently been restored to their former glory. Boasting a fernery and rose garden and enveloped by mature trees, sloping lawns and beautiful bedding displays, it is steeped in history. Among the lush greenery, you will also find rhododendrons, camellias and a stunning iris garden, and visitors can stroll along the Avon River which borders the park alongside a sweeping margin of annual bedding displays. There’s also a Lily pond, added in the 1940s. AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

GARDENS

How does your GARDEN GROW?

We have been on the lookout for our favourite garden this year in a competition judged by award-winning garden designer Paul Hervey-Brookes

arlier in the year we launched a competition to find an extra-special garden, and we had an amazing response from Viking guests with more than 60 entries making it through to the final judging stage. The competition was judged by Paul Hervey-Brookes, designer of two gold medal-winning RHS gardens for Viking, and Viking

UK Managing Director Wendy Atkin-Smith. Paul and Wendy were on the lookout for good use of colour and space and unique features and focal points, as well as seasonal planting schemes. And, it was a bonus if gardens attracted insects and wildlife. All the entries were of a very high standard, which made the judging process very difficult indeed! But, we are thrilled to announce that the winner is Elizabeth Wright, who has a beautiful garden at her home near Nottingham, and she has won a Romantic Danube river cruise. “This garden stood out for me amongst all of the entries for its great use of different spaces, and wonderful variety of planting,” said Paul Hervey-Brookes. “The owner’s passion for creating a truly beautiful and relaxing garden really shines through,” he added. “The mix of plants from around the world, such as Mediterranean figs, Japanese Hosta and English runner beans, invokes a sense of travel, and the garden has the

ability to take you on a journey as you explore the different areas. I especially love the arch made of ivy, which is both decorative and good for bees. The trellises and wooden archways add interest by creating different layers of height, and draw you in to want to explore every corner.” Paul and Wendy loved seeing so many beautiful gardens created by some extremely green-fingered Viking guests, and reading about what makes them so special. Thank you to everyone who entered.

Clockwise from far right: Paul Hervey-Brooks on the steps of the Royal Horticultural Society; Wendy Atkin-Smith and Paul look through the entries; over 60 gardens made it through to the final stages; Paul picks the winner

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Highly commended

GARDENS

As well as picking an overall winner, Paul Harvey-Brookes was also tasked with selecting four runners-up

he high standard of entries into this year’s Viking’s Favourite Garden competition is perfectly demonstrated by the four impressive gardens that were crowned runners-up. Having been overwhelmed by the level of entries, Paul Hervey-Brookes and Viking’s Wendy Atkin-Smith reported that

the decision-making process was extremely difficult! From wildlife-friendly features to space-saving innovations, each garden stood out for a different reason, and the talented gardeners behind the beautiful designs were each awarded with a £100 garden centre voucher. Here are the four gardens chosen as runners-up...

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

GARDENS

KENNETH AND ELSPETH CRICHTON

DEREK MEPHAM

For Paul, the most striking aspects of Kenneth and Elspeth’s garden was its architectural design and interesting use of different levels. The setup makes great use of the available space, while the planting is varied and interesting, too.

Derek’s Japanese-inspired garden caught Paul’s attention due to its unique features. The whole garden shows real diversity with everything from the kitchen garden vegetable patch to the alpine planting. Overall, it truly reflects Derek’s love of travelling and passion for exploring new places.

JULIAN BLACKENMORE

JAN FRANCIS

With Julian’s garden, Paul was especially drawn to the colourful planting scheme and wildlife-friendly aspects. The pond, home to frogs, newts and water voles, was a particular highlight for the judges.

Paul loved what Jan has done with a small space, creating a colourful and unique garden with every inch thoughtfully planned out. The use of mirrors to create the illusion of more space is very clever, and there is so much detail that draws the eye.

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GARDENS

And the winner is... Competition winners Anthony and Elizabeth Wright explain how they created their garden and how it evokes happy childhood memories

O Scenes from Elizabeth and Anthony Wrightâ€™s winning garden

ur house and garden is We believe that, with a little situated in the suburbs love, care and attention, gardening of Nottingham. It repays you tenfold in mental and is south facing and physical joy, and relaxation with roughly 600 ydÂ˛. We bought the its great natural beauty. house and garden in 1984 as a As a little girl, I was my darling repossession. There was no kitchen dadâ€™s assistant in his beautiful and there was motor oil all over garden, hitching a lift on the the lounge back of the floor where an a little love, care lawn mower, With engine had been watering the and attention, gardening puddles before dismantled, whilst, outside, he planted repays you tenfold the garden was something and really just a patch of rough ground. harvesting his wonderful tomatoes. Over the years, my husband Even today, the smell of freshly Tony built walls and pathways, cut grass or the stalk of a tomato created beds and installed mirrors, evokes these times spent with my and did this at the weekends after father. For us the power of nature work whilst I tended the planting is not to be underestimated. and the lawn. Since retiring, Tony We feel we already have the has become equally addicted to greatest prize of all, the garden, pottering in the garden and it has but winning this competition is literally grown and blossomed into the icing on the cake, so we are the garden we have today. delighted to have won this prize. AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

CHARITY

Charity MISSION

Friends of Sussex Hospices (FSH) is one of the new charities we’ve partnered with this year as we join them in their mission to raise funds for a dozen hospice care providers Left: Fundraising reps from Sussex Hospices promote the Sussex Hospice Trail walking event Below: A Family Fun Day with The Gruffalo is another popular charity event run by FSH

SH begun in 1995 when a small group of like-minded friends organised a charity fair to raise money to help build a hospice in Hove. Since then it has grown into a charity which champions and raises funds for all 12 hospice care providers that serve the adults and children of Sussex, and Viking is very proud to offer its support. As the charity is run entirely by volunteers, none of the money raised goes on salaries. This maximises the amount of funds that can be put towards the hospices' running costs. Each of the hospice care providers are independent charities which rely hugely on their local communities for funding and, through its fund-raising activities, FSH supports and supplements what they do alongside raising awareness.

WHAT IS HOSPICE CARE?

Hospices provide care and support, as well as pain and symptom control, to patients with terminal and life-limiting diseases. They also support the carers, family members and close friends of patients, both during the illness and bereavement. Although the support provided by hospices is about end-of-life care, it is 38

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also very much about living, helping patients live life as fully as possible. Similarly, it might not extend a person’s lifespan, but it does ensure the utmost quality of life during their final days. WHY FSH NEEDS SUPPORT

Hospice care is free for everyone at the point of delivery, but it’s not cheap and demand is growing, as people are living longer with multiple chronic conditions, needs are becoming more complex and this requires more intensive care. About 60% of hospice patients are cared for in the community – in their own home or a nursing home – and statistics reveal hospices are only reaching two thirds of dying people who could benefit from hospice care. So increased funding would enable hospices to reach more people in need of their services. FSH’S FUND-RAISING EVENTS

The charity has gained a stellar reputation for organising an array of fund-raising events, ranging from black tie dinners to pub quizzes. It hosts a Summer Concert each year, a Family Fun Day with The Gruffalo, a quarterly luncheon club and this year will see its 25th Christmas Fair.

There are also lots of supporters who run marathons, climb mountains and partake in other activities. And, in 2016, FHS began its annual Sussex Hospices Trail – a 200-mile-long series of circular walks which link the areas of the 12 hospices that the charity supports. FHS is delighted to have been chosen as a charity partner by Viking, which has already generously donated fantastic cruises as auction prizes at two recent events.

friendsofthesussexhospices.org

es vis ited Actress Keeley Haw s Lagom Garden The Viking Cruise

Wendy Atkin-Smith with gardener Will Williams

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PARTY PEOPLE

Charlotte

Hawkin

l ing flora s was feel

Celebrating gold at RHS Hampton Court Palace Garden Festival

n our fourth year as the headline sponsor of the festival, we are thrilled to have been awarded a gold medal for The Viking Cruises Lagom Garden designed by Will Williams, the youngest designer ever to create a garden within the Show Garden category at Hampton Court. Inspired by the notion of balance, Will created a garden where nature meets contemporary design, a space where wildlife can live and thrive in harmony with people, and a functional garden for everyone to enjoy.

Judy Murra y took time out to enjoy the gardens to Will Williams was thril led al have achieved a gold med

e Leith judge Pru Bake Off sh ti ri B t Grea Alex Jones was excited to tour the garden

The festival is a busy time for gardener Rachel de Thame

Bill Bailey is a long-time fan of AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK the festival

OPERA SEASON

This summer Viking partnered with Opera Holland Park for their production of Puccini’s Manon Lescaut. We talk to General Director Michael Volpe

How long have you worked at Opera Holland Park?

From top to bottom: A production of La Rondine at Opera Holland Park; Michael Volpe has loved classical music since his school days

I have been at Holland Park for 30 years now, which feels remarkable. We often joke that many of the team were not even born when I first arrived. The theatre was part of the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea’s arts portfolio and had a variety of things on; theatre, dance and opera. The opera was bought in from small independent companies so I convinced the council to start its own company in 1996 and we went from one production to all productions by 2001. The rest, as they say, is history and in 2015 we became an independent charity.

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When did your love for classical music begin?

My love for classical came as a consequence of my school – a remarkable and unusual place that I wrote about in my book Noisy at the Wrong Times. What has been the highlight of your career so far?

That is difficult to answer because there have been so many highlights. Becoming an independent charity would be one real landmark, but I think the greatest achievement is a collective one – as a company we have championed a late Italian repertoire over 24 years. Being awarded an Honorary Doctorate in Music was something I was indecently pleased about, too. How did the partnership between Opera Holland Park and Viking come about?

Charles Mackay, our Chairman, knows the company very well

and I met with Wendy Atkin-Smith as a consequence. We talked about the way in which Viking has a strong thread of cultural content as part of its cruise experience and we agreed that OHP would be a valuable addition to the portfolio of cultural partners Viking already had. We also got along very well! What would you consider to be your favourite Opera and why?

I would say L’amore dei tre Re by Montemezzi – my youngest daughter Fiora is named after the heroine. It is a very beautiful, but also savage, opera with the most mind-bendingly gorgeous music. It is also short at about 100 minutes. The central theme of love and betrayal is offset by the sad, loveless life of a man who is supposed to be a baddie but turns out to be the most decent of them all. However, there are several operas that could qualify as a ‘favourite’. It is an unfair question to ask an opera fan!

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Clockwise, from far right: Michael loves the escapism offered through travel and music; Englishman’s Bay in Tobago; the cathedral in Florence; Michael always packs his headphones; Positano on the Amalfi Coast

Travel is about escape and emotional experiences and that is precisely what music does too What do you think connects travel and music?

This is indisputable for me; travel is about escape and emotional experiences and that is precisely what music does too. We often associate music very powerfully with travel and holiday experiences or the memory of them. In my view, the wonders of travelling to beautiful places has a direct human and mental similarity to music and the enrichment of our lives. On the most basic level, if you are standing on the deck of a Viking cruise ship sailing past a beautiful coastline, the experience would be amplified in power a hundred times if you were wearing headphones and listening to gorgeous music! Composers were often brilliant at evoking places in their music; if I listen to Sibelius I can see the cold and stark Arctic mountains and fjords in my mind’s eye.

Which pieces would you recommend for the perfect cruise playlist?

I would say you couldn’t go far wrong with a compilation of Puccini arias. I also have a soft spot for Vaughan Williams and other British pastoral composers. Lots of people know Vaughan Williams’ “The Lark Ascending” which is a hugely accessible piece. I would also suggest Strauss’s Four Last Songs which are a bit funereal but devastatingly beautiful – I can imagine cruising the Danube in winter listening to those! Which cities and destinations have inspired you the most?

I am Italian so I have an affinity to cities and places there – Florence, Rome, the Lakes etc. The Amalfi Coast for sure is one of the most iconic and beautiful places on the planet and I get quite emotional

just sitting on a balcony watching the sun rise over the Bay of Naples. In August at the height of summer, a mist always rolls off the hills and creates the most unbelievable golden morning light. I really love Neapolitan music so nothing could be more perfect than watching this dawn show with an espresso and Roberto Murolo playing in my headphones. I also adore the Caribbean – Tobago in particular. Anywhere you go in the Caribbean you find sensational musicians just doing their thing. Oddly, I love the Arctic and frequently visit northern Finland in the winter. What three things do you never travel without?

My headphones, a phone full of music and an open mind.

PHOTOS: © ROBERT WORKMAN /ISTOCK

What is your dream destination or destinations?

I mentioned the Amalfi Coast, but if you mean somewhere I haven’t yet been, I would say the North Pole. And if someone could easily transport me up to the summit of Everest without me having to make the effort, I would love to have the experience of looking out from the highest point on the planet. AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

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Rhine

Getaway The combination of historical sightseeing and modern-day comfort is a winning formula, says travel writer John Wilmott

From left to right: Houses line the canal in Amsterdam; windmills are a landmark in the Dutch village of Kinderdijk

ettle down behind your desks, because you are about to enjoy a short lesson in European history. 1248: Work starts on the colossal Gothic cathedral in Cologne. The builders take their time – its soaring twin towers are not finished until 632 years later, although they did take a tea break in the 16th century. 1439: Strasbourg genius Johannes Gutenberg introduces the printing press to Europe with the first machine using moveable type, thereby starting a revolution in mass communication. 1542: The Brömer family build their glorious aristocratic residence in Rüdesheim. It now houses the

wonderful Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Museum where around 350 musical instruments are on display. 1629: Nobleman Philipp Hainhofer is the first to describe a cuckoo clock. Then architect Domenico Martinelli mentioned using the bird’s call to note the hour in his horology book. But the first known examples came out of the workshop of a Black Forest mechanic in the 18th century. 1740: The perpetually soggy Dutch polder-keepers at Kinderdijk embarked on the construction of an ingenious series of 19 windmills to pump excess water off the low-lying land, enabling them to reclaim tracts of land for agriculture.

1828: Twenty-seven years after the French blew up the hilltop fortress of Koblenz, its replacement is completed. The Revolutionaries are unlikely to try another – the new Ehrenbreitstein is one of the largest fortifications in Europe. Join Viking’s eight-day Rhine Getaway and you will make a journey through time, though do not expect a chronological order. Then again, going backward and forward through the centuries as you travel is all part of the unforgettable experience. Each of the above dates is a snapshot of the history of the places visited on the leisurely glide along the river from Amsterdam to Basel, or vice versa if you prefer. And there are a great many more fascinating insights into the past to discover along the way. The morning after my departure from the heart of Amsterdam, I was making the short hop over the dike to the first of many UNESCO World Heritage Sites on the itinerary. The string of handsome windmills around the polder at Kinderdijk, the densest concentration in The Netherlands, makes for a stirring vision. But incredibly, although modern pumps have been used to keep the farmland dry since the 1950s, a couple of the 18th-century mills remain on standby here just in case an emergency occurs. AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

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I stood beneath the softly whomping sail of one, listening to our guide explaining how the mills worked in tandem to gradually raise the water into reservoirs until it could be sluiced into the river. On into Germany, and to say Cologne’s mighty cathedral dominates the city is a massive understatement. I was glad they finally completed those soaring spires in the late 19th century, making the cathedral the tallest building in the world at that time.

Not wanting to miss a thing I took lunch on the al fresco Aquavit Terrace looking out over the ship’s bow The next morning, we were enjoying wraparound views from a cable car. The destination was impressive – the giant Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, looming over the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers from its 390ft perch opposite Koblenz. An actor in period costume conducted the lively tour of the

Prussian complex, built in the early 19th century and now housing an excellent museum. We learnt that it is the latest of a number of incarnations of a fortress, going back 3,000 years, on this strategically important hill. It is a storybook example of the 40 or so castles on the steep hillsides along the lovely Rhine Gorge. They range from the fairty tale to the formidable, from different periods and in various stages of preservation or decay. After we had left Koblenz, I sat out on the Sun Deck of my Viking Longship to spy on them one by one, including 11th-century Marksburg Castle, the only one never to be captured, and the wonderful Pfalzgrafenstein, like an anchored ship in the middle of the river. Not wanting to miss a thing, I took lunch on the al fresco Aquavit Terrace over the ship’s bow. If leaving the beautiful gorge behind left my spirits a little dampened, they quickly perked up again when we arrived in the

Clockwise from above: Swathes of deep-green woodland in the Black Forest; undertake a tour of Strasbourg’s grand cathedral; Marksburg Castle overlooks the Rhine below

AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

This page: A Viking Longship sailing on the Rhine overlooked by the magical Rheinstein Castle

wine-making town of RĂźdesheim. cathedral, boasts four towers and With a whole evening in port, I two domes, and is the burial place wandered along the Drosselgasse, of eight German emperors and is a medieval alley crammed with a UNESCO World Heritage Site. taverns and shops, many with ornate signs hanging Strasbourg boasts one of the over the cobbles. I found most gorgeously picturesque a nook in a wine bar to old quarters in Europe sample the aromatic local Riesling before admiring the turrets of BrĂśmershof, the I spent my free time inspecting musical instrument museum. the historic trains, planes and We stepped back further in time automobiles of the Speyer Technik at the next port, Speyer. Nearly Museum, among whose exhibits is 1,000 years old, its Romanesque a jumbo jet and a space shuttle.

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N 2019

That evening the German theme continued on board, with lederhosen-clad folk musicians wandering among the tables in the restaurant with their accordions as we feasted on bratwurst. As my table guests and I discussed the days ahead, none of us really knew what to expect from our next destination, which turned out to be the best surprise of the entire cruise. Strasbourg boasts one of the most gorgeously picturesque old quarters in Europe. Postcard-perfect

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half-timbered buildings lean over dainty canals in Petite-France and everywhere you look there are colourful flowers in bloom, bursting from window boxes and planters hung from waterside rails. Our guide pointed out the Ponts Couverts, a set of three bridges that link four distinctive towers completed in 1250. Until the 18th century the bridges, which once formed part of the city walls, had wooden roofs to protect those defending the city from invaders. I chose a suitable spot on one of the colourful streets to drink in the

scene with a slice of tarte flambée, the local version of pizza. This visual feast would have been memorable enough without my visit to the Gothic cathedral. Its intricately-carved façade blocked out the sky as I approached through the narrow Rue Mercière. Inside, passing between the immense columns of the nave, I came upon the elaborate astronomical clock, though I had missed the daily procession of apostle figurines that forms part of workings so complex they make Gutenberg’s printing press look rudimentary. This clock does not have a cuckoo, but we learnt about those that do deep in the Black Forest at the hamlet of Hofgut Stemen. The timepiece’s origins may be hazy but we did discover how they became the emblem of this wild and woody corner of Germany, before inspecting the giant version on the end of one of the buildings. We had driven here from Breisach through countless fir trees and lush pastures; it was beautiful enough for me to yearn for a closer look, which a hardy little group of guests managed on a ravine trail after our spot of clock-watching.

The Swiss border slipped by silently in the night and I awoke to step out on to my veranda to view a panorama of leafy Basel, our final destination. I realised now why this cruise is called the Rhine Getaway. With an elegant stateroom as my constant travel companion, unearthing such a wonderful assortment of historical nuggets had been as easy as taking a single-city break – and a lot more satisfying.

Clockwise from above: John enjoyed a slice of tarte flambée, a local version of pizza; the origins of the cuckoo clock proved fascinating; the Hohenzollern Bridge leads to the magnificent Cologne Cathedral

An eight-day Rhine Getaway itinerary, departing from Amsterdam to Basel, or in reverse, starts from £1,495pp vikingcruises.co.uk AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Principles cape (£69, Debenhams)

Cotton cardigan (£42, Fat Face)

Leather backpack (£130, Cath Kidston)

For women...

Recycled scarf (£22.50, Accessorize)

Pick clever neutral pieces to complement floral prints to ensure a more classic look

Beautiful

botanicals Oriental trousers (£42, Fat Face)

Choose pieces featuring floral prints and leaf motifs for a fresh take on this season’s celebration of the natural world

Sunglasses (£100, Folli Folli)

Hawaiian fan (£5, Accessorize)

Shirt dress (£199, Hobbs)

Quilted jacket (from a selection at Cotton Traders)

Flower earrings (£18, Oliver Bonas)

Straw hat (£24, Fat Face)

Tan loafers (£78, Dune)

FA S H I O N

and for men...

A floral shirt is perfect for adding a playful touch to a holiday outfit

Cord jacket (£50, Burton) Printed dress (from a selection at Cotton Traders)

Adventurer hat (£35, National Trust)

Flannel shirt (£49.95, White Stuff)

Floral dress (£78, Cath Kidston) Leaf print shirt (£28, Burton)

Jeans (£49.95, White Stuff)

Cord jacket (89, Hush) Nubuck belt (£22.50, White Stuff)

Roll top rucksack (£30, Next)

Sheepskin gloves (£30, National Trust)

Accessories (from a selection at Debenhams) Hiking-style boot (£65, Next)

Overnight bag (£48, Cath Kidston)

POSTCARD from

PORTUGAL Specialist Cruise Consultant Bianca LeQuesne's favourite destination on her Douro cruise was the small town of Favaios, here she tells us more about it

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | SUM MER 2019

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PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

hoosing just one place from my beautiful Douro cruise was difficult, but Favaios, a town in northern Portugal, was special. A small town with a population of just over 1,000 people, it is known for its wine – Moscatel de Favaios – and also for its ‘four corners bread’, both of which were delicious. Our first stop was the local museum of wine and bread, where it was great to learn more about the treats that awaited us and to understand the important role that these two industries have played for this small town. Our local guide advised us that the locals drink Moscatel with breakfast – it is left to your interpretation as to whether this is a true or not, but I like to think this is one of the reasons that the local residents have such a cheery and friendly demeanour. We then visited a local cooperative to learn a little more about how the Muscat grapes are made into the Moscatel wine and of course to try the final product. Very sweet and surprisingly light, Moscatel wine can be used in cocktails but it is easy to see why locals prefer it just as it is. I discovered there were more products also made from the grapes; jams, and jelly for example, and I am still enjoying these at home now. My favourite part of the day was a visit to the bakery. There are still eight bakeries in Favaios which bake their famous four corners bread each day to distribute to the surrounding towns and villages. The small bakeries will bake around 1,000 loaves a day and it was a great privilege to go and visit one of these bakeries to see how this is done. The ingredients are simple: water, yeast, flour and salt – the end product, delicious! We were invited in with open arms to watch the bread being baked in the two stone ovens. Loaves upon loaves were brought out and we were encouraged to try the freshly-baked bread with butter, cheese, ham or jam. As we left Favaios our journey back to the ship in Pinãho was stunning. These little places we visited were for me the real jewels of the Douro wine region.

Clockwise, from opposite page: The town of Favaios was a highlight; the countryside around Favaios is peppered with terraced fields and traditional villages; Bianca loved discovering more about local industry; the famous ‘four corners bread’

A 10-day Portugal’s River of Gold journey, from Lisbon to Porto, starts at £2,095pp in 2020 vikingcruises.co.uk AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Discover Portugal’s River of Gold Explore Portugal’s true beauty and rich past on this memorable journey that begins with a two-night hotel stay in colourful Lisbon. From Porto, sail the Douro alongside rippling terraced vineyards, through an ancient land of tiny villages clustered around historic churches, monasteries and castles. Discover baroque palaces and resplendent manor houses. Admire tranquil and timeless landscapes. Indulge in delicious ports and wines. The heart and soul of Portugal is felt everywhere, every day, on this enchanting journey.

2020 Portugal’s River of Gold Ten-day itinerary from £2,145pp Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available, departing on selected dates in 2020. Prices valid until 30 September 2019. Single supplements 100%. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.

ITINERARY

Divine Douro Be enraptured by gorgeous Portuguese cities, steep terraced vineyards carved into mountains and 18th-century wine cellars while cruising along the glorious Douro River Above: The beautiful Douro Valley features lush green terrain rising up from the river below

DAY 1 / LISBON, PORTUGAL

DAY 6 / BARCA D’ALVA, PORTUGAL

Meet Viking at the airport and transfer to Hotel Tivoli (or similar), situated in the heart of Lisbon – a city that seduces with quaint alleyways, ancient ruins, a dynamic food scene and trending galleries.

Travel east along the Douro and be wowed by dramatic rock formations and striking terraced vineyards before arriving at Barca d’Alva. The afternoon is devoted to Castelo Rodrigo – one of Portugal’s 12 historic parishes.

DAY 2 / LISBON, PORTUGAL Spend the day exploring the Portuguese capital’s much-loved sights, from the 500-year-old architectural masterpiece, Jerónimos Monastery, and the Tower of Belém to the maze of charming streets lined with cafés and craft shops in the atmospheric Old Quarter.

DAY 3 / PORTO, PORTUGAL Take a scenic ride to Porto, stopping for lunch in Coimbra, home to one of Europe’s oldest universities. On arrival in Porto, board your ship and settle into your stateroom before a welcome cocktail and dinner.

PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES

DAY 4 / PORTO, PORTUGAL

DAY 7 / SALAMANCA, SPAIN Today you’ll enjoy a whole day in Salamanca, an ancient Spanish city dating back to the middle ages. The morning is free to explore before a guided tour reveals sites such as the Gothic House of Shells and the 13th-century Salamanca University.

DAY 8 / PINHÃO, PORTUGAL Learn how bread is baked at a traditional Portuguese bakery tucked away in a rural village in the Douro River Valley before moving on for lunch at a centuries-old rustic winery. Re-join your ship in Pinhão.

A morning city tour provides an excellent introduction to this endearing city. Marvel at its UNESCO-listed historic centre, before delving into its port heritage with a tasting at a top wine cellar. Alternatively, take an optional drive to Guimarães, Portugal’s first-ever capital.

DAY 9 / RÉGUA, PORTUGAL

DAY 5 / RÉGUA, PORTUGAL

Wake up in Porto, where your trip comes to an end. But you can extend your trip with extra nights in Braga, Portugal, and Santiago de Compostela, Spain.

Sail along the Douro and reach Régua by the early afternoon. The highlight of this stop is a visit to Mateus Palace, the baroque former residence of the count of Vila Real. Admire the lavishly appointed interiors, priceless objects on display and formal gardens.

On your return to Régua, visit the pretty town of Lamego, best known for its important pilgrimage site, the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies.

DAY 10 / PORTO, PORTUGAL

The 10-day Portugal’s River of Gold itinerary starts from £2,145pp AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

ON LOCATION with Karine

Executive Vice President of Viking, Karine Hagen, shares where her favourite gardens are around the globe, as well as where she goes to connect with nature

ature plays an integral role in Scandinavian life. Long walks in the mountains, bicycling to school and cross country skiing during the winter are childhood memories for most Norwegians. Today many still enjoy gathering with family and friends for St. Hans celebrations, peeling shrimp and sipping a glass of white wine in fjordside gardens on warm summer evenings.

GLORIOUS GARDENS When I travel I love to visit gardens to learn more about landscape design and to simply enjoy some time in the fresh air. The UK has some of the finest gardens in the world, including those found at Highclere Castle which is set in 1,000 acres of sweeping parkland. Highlights include the Monk’s Garden, the White Garden and the Secret Garden, with its curving herbaceous borders and beautiful displays of colour. In France, Claude Monet’s Giverny garden is beautiful. With each flower specifically 54

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chosen for its glow in the sunlight, it’s clear Monet took the greatest creative inspiration from his gardens. exploringmore.com/ video/monets-gardens Further afield in the bustling metropolis of Shanghai awaits the Yuyuan Gardens. Created by the wealthy Pan family, it’s a wonderful example of a traditional Chinese garden where the artful play of yin and yang, and water and stone, creates a welcome sense of serenity. exploringmore.com/ video/yuyuan-gardens

COLUMN

TRAIN WITH A VIEW One of the best places to connect with nature in the world is in the Norwegian countryside. The hike from the Finse mountain plateau along the Rallarvegen to Flåm is one of my favourites, as you see glaciers, waterfalls, farms and fjords along the way. Our guests can enjoy these views from the comfort of a railway carriage on our optional excursion on the Flåm Railway. This 12-mile journey is considered one of the world’s great masterpieces of engineering, and also showcases some of the world’s most dramatic scenery.

BERRY JAM

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK

DALE OF NORWAY

The village of Dale is nestled between steep mountains and fjords on Norway’s west coast, the perfect location for producing textiles to benefit from natural hydropower and access to the finest Norwegian wool. Founded in 1879, Dale of Norway soon became the region’s biggest employer, and has long been known as the leading Norwegian knitwear brand. Dale of Norway has designed a collection exclusively for Viking: a Viking Ragnhild sweater for ladies and a men’s Viking Tor sweater based on the pattern Mamsen knitted for her son (my father), and with a Thor’s

hammer zipper pull similar to the jewellery sold on Viking ships. The Viking Ragnhild has a Viking brooch design on its zipper pull and its knit pattern was inspired by textiles on the Oseberg ship. Naturally water-repellent wool is given a soft finish to create comfortable and elegant cardigans suitable for a variety of uses. The Dale wool is of exceptional quality as it always seems to keep you at the right temperature, and never pills. With slits on the side, the design is also universally flattering! There is also a new Viking Karine sweater available in my favourite colour blue, which is a variation of the Viking Ragnhild. exploringmore.com/video/ dale-of-norway

In Norway we love to pick wild berries and make a range of delicious jams to enjoy throughout the year. It’s a great way to engage with the land around you. Ingredients:

2.2 lb (1kg) fresh berries, e.g. raspberries (sliced) Juice of 1 lemon 2.2 lb (1kg) of sugar Method:

1. Put the fruit and lemon juice into a large pan. Heat for a few minutes to soften, add the sugar and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. 2. Once the sugar has dissolved and the liquid is clear, boil steadily for about six minutes, or until at setting point. To test if the jam is at setting point, spoon a little onto a cold plate, leave for a minute and then gently push it with your finger. If the jam separates without flooding back together, setting point has been reached. 3. Set the jam aside to cool, then spoon into sterilised jars. Label and seal with wax paper and lids.

AUTUMN 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

HISTORY

VIKING

supports

VICTORY WEEK For this year’s annual Victory Week, Viking sponsored Norwegian veterans from World War II to come to London to join the celebrations for the first time

Opposite and below: Norwegian veterans from World War II join the celebrations in London for Victory Week

ictory Week, which this year’s Victory Week. began as a salute by The veterans, who travelled British veterans of to the UK with family members, the Arctic Convoys include the last surviving sailor campaign to their Russian from HNoMS Stord, which was brothers-in-arms, has grown involved in a battle off the North into a tribute to all veterans of Cape in Norway with her British conflict including those who sisters, Scorpion, Saumarez and survived, and in remembrance Savage. Lt. Tony Ditcham, the of those who lost their lives. gunnery officer of Scorpion was Bringing together World War II reunited at the event with Engineer veterans from the allied forces from Trygve Hansen of Stord – possibly around the world including Russia, the last two men alive who were Canada and Jamaica, this year’s part of the successful battle. celebrations included the veterans The event was created by from Norway for the first time. Tim Lewin, son of the late as well as completing twelve The ‘Free Norway’ Navy Admiral of the Fleet, Lord Lewin Arctic convoys before finishing was made up of his Naval career as approximately 1,000 Quite simply, I could not have done Commander-in-Chief of men who are credited British Forces during this without the support of Viking all for making a significant the Falklands Conflict. contribution to the war “Quite simply, I efforts. Ever mindful of its Nordic of Greenwich, who fought in could not have done this without heritage, Viking played a key part the Norwegian Campaign, the the support of Viking,” said Tim in bringing the veterans together at Mediterranean and the Atlantic Lewin. “Their sponsorship was the difference between wishful thinking and fulfilment, they made it happen. With Viking’s support we were able to bring over the splendid Norwegian veterans and their families. As per the theme of this year’s Victory Week, we were ‘All in it together’ and Norway deserves to be part of our celebrations.” Victory Week included a ceremony at the Soviet War Memorial in Harmsworth Park and a gathering of Allied veterans onboard HMS Belfast, which was involved in the Arctic Campaign and D-Day, as well as a service at Loch Ewe in Scotland from where all the Arctic convoys set out on their missions. HRH Prince Michael of Kent attended the event on HMS Belfast to meet the veterans and to witness the Sunset Ceremony. AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N 2019

FOOD

Guest chef BEHIND THE SCENES Chef and food writer Karen Burns-Booth shares her experience of being a Guest Chef on board Viking Sun, and shares some of her recipes

This page and left: Chef and food writer Karen Burns-Booth joined Viking as a Guest Chef on board Viking Sun

hilst sailing around South East Asia on Viking Orion last autumn I had the pleasure of working with Anthony Mauboussin, Director of Culinary Operations & Development for Viking. I was thrilled when he invited me to be Guest Chef in The Chef’s Table restaurant on board Viking Sun, creating a British menu, as she ended her World Cruise and sailed into Greenwich, London. I’m an avid supporter of British cuisine, I feel it’s much maligned, and yet our island nation has so much to offer by way of fresh, seasonal produce with provenance. Ours is a nation of rich and varied fare, much of it brought back from our explorations overseas, so, as well as fish and chips, sherry trifle and shepherd’s pie, you’ll also see curry, Chinese cuisine and exotic spices included in our culinary canon. I flew out to Vigo where I boarded Viking Sun, and was looked after by Hugo Sanches Saldana (Corporate Culinary Development Assistant Ocean) throughout my time on board – in fact we did a joint British cookery class together! I had a fabulous team of seven in The Chef’s Table galley, led by Wayan Darmawan, Chef de Cuisine. The team all interpreted my British menu perfectly, and worked hard to prep and cook a menu they’d never seen before, to the very high standards Viking is famous for.

My day started with a visit to the galley to chat through the plans for the day, as well as arrange prep times and tasting sessions with the waiting staff. Each evening we would prepare the full menu in order for the waiting staff to try each dish and learn about its history; this was also the time we could discuss alternative choices for those guests with dietary

requirements. Hugo and I would meet the first guests of the evening at The Chef’s Table before going to help cook in the galley. The whole experience was very exhilarating and fulfilling, just as I remember from my own restauranteur days, albeit quite different from cooking on land! I enjoyed every minute, from the early morning meetings with my team to the busy service in the evenings, as well as the cookery demonstrations I did too. I’m already looking forward to my next Guest Chef experience on board Viking Sun later in the year. AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Recipes QUAIL SCOTCH EGGS

MAKES 24

Contrary to popular belief, Scotch eggs are not Scottish – they were actually invented by the famous London department store Fortnum & Mason in 1738. The word “Scotch” is an old English word meaning to chop or mince, and eggs covered with “chopped or minced” pork sausage meat, were given the name “Scotch Eggs”.

ROAST BEEF & YORKSHIRE PUDDING One of the most iconic of British dishes, this recipe has stood the test of time, dating back to the 1700s.

MINI YORKSHIRE PUDDINGS MAKES 12 INGREDIENTS:

• • • • • •

Rapeseed oil 1 teacup (250ml) of eggs 1 teacup (250ml) of plain flour 1/2 (125ml) teacup of water 1/2 (125ml) teacup of milk Salt and pepper

METHOD:

INGREDIENTS:

• • • • • •

2 tbsp vinegar 24 quail’s eggs 200g stale bread 120g blanched almonds Flat-leaf parsley 500g high meat content pork sausages • 4 hen’s eggs • 6 tbsp plain flour • Sunflower oil, for deep-frying METHOD:

1. Bring a large pan of water to the boil, add the vinegar, and then slowly lower in the quail’s eggs with a spoon. Cook for 1 minute, then take the pan off the heat and sit for 30 seconds. Scoop the eggs out and plunge straight into a bowl of iced water. Leave the eggs to cool for 10 minutes while you prepare the coating. 2. Put the stale bread, almonds and parsley in a food processor and blitz until finely chopped, then season and transfer to a shallow dish. Remove the outer casing from the sausage, chop the sausage and put it in the food processor along with 2 hen’s eggs. Blitz until just smooth. Divide the mixture into 24 patties and put on a plate. Set up 3 bowls with the flour in one, remaining 60

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUT UM N 2019

egg, beaten, in the second, and the crumb mix in the third. 3. Peel the quail’s eggs taking care not to expose the yolk, which should be softly boiled. Place 1 sausage patty on top of a piece of cling film. Flatten it as thin as you can, then put a quail’s egg on top. Use the cling film to draw the edges of the patty up and around the egg until it’s completely enclosed. Twist the ends of the cling film together to form a ball. Unwrap the Scotch egg and roll it in the flour, then dip in the beaten egg, followed by rolling it in the crumb mix. Repeat the beaten egg and crumb mix step to ensure a generous coating, and then repeat the whole process for the rest of the eggs. 4. Heat the oil until it reaches 180C. Lower in the Scotch eggs and fry for 5 minutes. If the Scotch eggs are browning quickly, turn the heat down, but leave them in for the full 5 minutes to ensure the sausage is cooked through. When done, scoop them out onto a plate lined with kitchen paper to absorb the oil. Repeat with all the eggs. While still hot but cool enough to be handled cut each in half and arrange on a platter with quick pickle, mesclun leaves and edible flowers.

1. Pre-heat oven to 230C/450F/Gas mark 8. Pour half a teaspoon of oil into each muffin hole. 2. Empty the flour, salt and pepper into a large bowl. Make a dip in the centre and add the beaten eggs bit by bit, mixing as you go. Add the water/milk mixture gradually and whisk in between each addition. Keep whisking until all the liquids have been added. The batter may still be lumpy – this does not matter. (You can cover and leave it to rest for up to 1 hour if you have time) 3. Pour the Yorkshire pudding batter into the muffin tin and cook for 15 to 20 minutes until the puddings are well risen and golden brown. Do not open the oven for the first 10 to 15 minutes or the Yorkshire puddings will drop.

FOOD

WHIM-WHAM – A TRIFLE WITH RASPBERRIES, ORANGES AND WHIPPED CREAM SERVES 10 Whim-Wham is a simple and delicious trifle that originates from Scotland and the Regency period. The expression Whim Wham comes from the word “whimsy” and means something that is quaint or fanciful, or even frivolous. This is a delectable dessert of sponge cake, fresh fruit jam, sweet cream sherry and scotch whisky, fresh raspberries, orange zest and swathes of fresh, double cream which is then topped with toasted blanched almonds.

SLOW BRAISED BRISKET WITH RICH GRAVY SERVES 10 INGREDIENTS:

• • • • • • • • • • •

1kg beef brisket joint 1 tbsp oil 2 garlic cloves, squashed 10 shallots, peeled 300ml beef stock 300ml red wine 175g mixed mushrooms 1 tbsp oil 1 onion, sliced 100g streaky bacon, chopped 2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped

METHOD:

1. Heat oven to 170C/325F/gas 3. Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the joint and brown on all sides. Tip in the garlic and shallots and lightly brown. Place in a deep ovenproof dish, season and add the stock and wine. Cover and cook in the oven for 2.5 hours. 2. Stir in the mushrooms during the last 30 minutes and then return to the oven. Heat the oil and lightly fry the onion and bacon until crispy. 3. Serve the meat scattered with the onion, bacon and parsley, as well as gravy and your choice of seasonal vegetables.

INGREDIENTS:

• 150g sponge cake (or trifle sponge fingers) • 5 tablespoons raspberry jam • 150ml sweet sherry (or sweet dessert wine) • 60ml Scotch whisky • 1 orange, juice and zest • 225g fresh raspberries • 500ml double cream • 6 tablespoons icing sugar • 50g blanched almonds (lightly toasted) METHOD:

to soak for 30 minutes before scattering the raspberries over the top, leaving some for decoration. 3. Pour the cream into a bowl and add the icing sugar. Whip the cream until it holds soft peaks and then spoon the cream over the raspberries, making sure they are all covered. 4. Scatter the remaining raspberries over the cream, as well as the orange zest and then the toasted almonds. Serve immediately, although it can be kept in the fridge after serving for up to 1 day.

1. Half an hour before you serve the Whim Wham, spread the jam over the sponge cake or sponge fingers and then cut the sponge cake/ fingers into small cubes; arrange them in the base of individual glass bowls or water glasses. 2. Mix the sherry, whisky and orange juice together and pour over the sponge cake pieces; allow AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

Viking BOOK CLUB If you’re on the lookout for a new read, your search is over. Here is our round-up of the best novels inspired by the themes of gardens and the natural world

THE LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS

LIFE IN THE GARDEN

THE SECRET GARDEN

By Vanessa Diffenbaugh

By Penelope Lively

By Frances Hodgson Burnett

Picador, £8.99

Penguin, £9.99

Puffin Classics, £12.99

A moving story of hope and forgiveness, the central character in this international bestseller is Victoria Jones, who has nowhere to go and is sleeping rough in a public park. She plants a small garden of her own, and, just like the Victorians used flowers to express emotions, so Victoria is able to express her feelings of grief and solitude. After meeting a mysterious vendor at the flower market, Victoria must choose whether to confront a painful secret from her past.

Always a keen gardener, Penelope Lively’s memoir of her own life in gardens includes the large garden in Cairo where she spent much of her childhood, her grandmother’s garden in Somerset and two Oxfordshire gardens of her own, as well as the smaller urban garden in North London where she lives today. Wise and engaging, Lively also explores gardens in literature, from Paradise Lost to Alice in Wonderland, and also covers writers (such as Virginia Woolf and Philip Larken) and their gardens.

First published in 1911, this timeless classic has transported many young readers into another world and has enjoyed many screen adaptations. Mary Lennox is sent to live with her uncle at Misselthwaite Manor, and is a spoilt, difficult girl. Lost in loneliness, Mary finds the key to a mysterious garden that has been kept locked for years, and it is here that she discovers a magical place and enters a world she could never have imagined.

THE FORGOTTEN GARDEN

THE BOTANIST’S DAUGHTER

W&N, £16.99

By Kate Morton

By Kayte Nunn

Pan MacMillan, £8.99

Orion, £8.99

The tale of a little girl called Nell, who is abandoned on a ship taking emigrants to Australia, is woven together with the story of her granddaughter, Cassandra, who discovers that she has inherited an abandoned cottage in Cornwall. Both women are searching for their roots, and it is in the forgotten garden of Cliff Cottage that Cassandra finally unravels the mystery surrounding her family and why her grandmother was cast aside all those years ago.

A gripping historical novel that brings to life the dangerous world of Victorian plant-hunters and a long-buried secret that could have deadly consequences. The story binds together two headstrong female botanists, separated by centuries: Anna in the present day is building a gardening business and finds an old box hidden in the wall of her late grandmother’s house, and Elizabeth who, in the 19th century, sets out on an adventurous plant-hunting mission.

A beautifully written memoir about her life after moving to Switzerland, this book focuses on Beth’s attempts to integrate with the Swiss, and how she finds solace in the natural world as she goes about creating a garden. Struggling with the rules and regulations of everyday life, she writes lyrically about the simple need to sow seeds and grow plants in her small apartment. After buying a house in the hills of the Swiss Jura, Beth finally finds her purpose in life and sets about transforming her new garden into an oasis of calm.

WHERE THE HORNBEAM GROWS

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUTUMN 2019

By Beth Lynch

BOOK CLUB

AUTUMN 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

C U LT U R E

MOVIE MAGIC As the hit television show makes the transition to our cinema screens, we catch up with Downton Abbey actor Jim Carter

What have been your career highlights to date?

How has it felt to re-unite the cast to film the movie?

Performing in Guys and Dolls at the National Theatre was a huge high for me. Other notable highlights include The Singing Detective, Cracker, Cranford and of course Downton Abbey on TV. On film, I’ve loved being in A Private Function, Top Secret, Brassed Off, Shakespeare in Love and King Lear.

Oddly in the film many of the cast didn’t really meet up with each other. Most of the ‘upstairs’ cast had finished filming before the ‘downstairs’ cast started work. Do you think you are in any way like your character Mr. Carson?

Why do you think Downton Abbey has been such a huge hit worldwide?

The eyebrows and nose are remarkably similar! I’m keen on politeness and punctuality, but I hope I’m a lot more fun than Mr. Carson. And unlike him I hate routine.

Nobody knows. Maybe it is a combination of good stories and a large cast of colourful characters which includes many great parts for women. The wonderful locations and stunning costumes must have helped, and the whole series was beautifully filmed. But above all, I think it must be the romance.

What are your favourite travel destinations, and have you ever been on a cruise?

The only cruising I’ve done was in a small boat on a canal in France – does that count? It was a brilliant holiday and I loved being out on the water. More recently, I’ve snatched a quick holiday with my daughter on a Greek island. I love an evening stroll to a Greek taverna and eating grilled fish and drinking white wine by the water’s edge. Bliss.

How did you feel about hosting the Music from Downton Abbey concert this summer?

The concert was a bit of a leap in the dark for me, but with the stage and the audience set up in front of Highclere Castle it was certainly a unique and very special setting. Hopefully, for the fans, it helped to stoke the excitement for the release of the film in September.

I’m keen on politeness and punctuality, but I hope I’m a lot more fun than Mr. Carson

The Downton Abbey movie is released on 13 September 2019

AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

CITY GUIDES Our destinations and shore excursions are at the centre of every Viking cruise. Weâ€™re always on the lookout for new experiences, and these travel guides are packed with local tips to inspire your next adventure

Page 68 Boston The birthplace of the American Revolution mixes rich history with modern pizzazz

Page 70 Salamanca Modern and ancient Spain fuse in this infinitely fascinating city

Page 72 Strasbourg Step back in time in Alsaceâ€™s fairytale capital, charming visitors all year long

From top to bottom: The foilage on the banks of Boston's Jamaica Plains changes colour as autumn draws closer; famous Red Sox player Mookie Betts

Boston Boston offers visitors the chance to see sites where the American Revolution unfolded, as well as the renowned Red Sox baseball team, Harvard University and fiery fall colours

he Boston Tea Party, the American Revolution and the invention of Facebook are just a few of Boston’s claims to fame. It’s also a city of firsts; the United States’ first public library, subway, public park, landfill and phone call. Iconic 19th-century architecture is some of the country's finest and best seen from Copley Square, flanked by the gothic-revival Trinity Church and the grand Boston Public Library. But it’s not just about looking back in this old-time city. As the epicentre of the Eastern Seaboard, Boston has always been a creative hotbed and there’s no shortage of the unexpected. Atop a multi-storey car park in Cambridge’s Kendall Square, there’s a secret garden complete with ping pong tables, and every first Friday of the month studios in the SoWa arts district open their doors to passers-by. In autumn, Boston comes alive with popping autumnal colours. The Public Garden, America’s

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oldest botanical park, is the best place to bask in the glow of orange and red foliage. Here over 600 trees create a combination of shapes and colours not seen anywhere else in New England. Come winter, head across the road to Frog Pond on Boston Common where locals go to finesse their ice-skating skills.

Don’t miss •

The Public Garden’s Swan Boats have been delighting passengers on the four-acre lagoon since the late 19th century. In the height of summer, it’s the perfect way to cool down, while in winter it gives way to ice hockey enthusiasts. • If you’re looking to immerse yourself in some of the erudite Harvard goings-on, grab a 60-minute free campus tour led by students and then head to The Harvard Book Store where famous authors give regular readings. • Beacon Hill is where the rich and famous live. This pocket of village life in the middle of town is about as picturesque as Boston gets. Take an hour-or-so to stroll the cobblestone streets nosing into brownstone homes. • The 2.5-mile Freedom Trail is an excellent way to uncover Boston’s American Revolution history. The red brick road connects Paul Revere House, Massachusetts State House, significant chapels and cemeteries, and the Boston Public Garden. • If baseball is on your agenda, and you miss the chance to pick up tickets to a Sox game, the next best

Fast Facts Boston’s most loved statue is a series of bronze ducklings in Boston Public Garden. The Hancock Tower has coloured lights that tell the weather. On 10 March 1876 Alexander Graham Bell made the first ever phone call to a Boston machine shop. The Public Garden has the world’s smallest suspension bridge.

thing is a tour of Fenway Park. The three-hour tours often take place just before a game so you’ll at least get a chance to see players warming up. A beer in the Bleacher Bar before or after is essential.

Eating & Drinking

Boston’s culinary delights lean towards the sea with oysters, lobster and clam chowders permeating most menus. Sampling fried clams and Boston pies are a must, while the Italian quarter serves up a mean Bolognese and there’s a thriving craft beer industry. CHART HOUSE £££

Boston Long Wharf is home to the city’s finest seafood, dished up with views across the harbour. Chart House occupies Long Wharf ’s oldest surviving structure, now filled with striking interiors. Alongside seafood classics, it’s renowned for Boston’s best ribs.

T R AV E L

CRAIGIE ON MAIN £££

Tony Maws leads the charge at this award-winning restaurant with a major influence on Boston’s foodie scene. Its burger is so popular, it’s become a limited edition, but the rest of the menu is equally brilliant.

Insider Tips

MARIA’S PASTRY SHOP £

For a gluten fix head to the Italian neighbourhood for fogliatelle (clamshell pastry filled with cheese and fruit) and cannoli (similar but in a cylinder shape). Maria’s Pastry Shop is a good place to start for a punchy dose of caffeine and sugar. BULLY BOY DISTILLERS TASTING ROOM ££

Local cocktail connoisseurs Dave and Will Willis not only make craft spirits but serve them to a small crowd in a Prohibition-era bar. The distillery is just next door, and if you reserve a spot, you can get a quick tour before sampling.

FOODIE FAVOURITE

VINTAGE APPEAL

HARBOUR SIDE

On Thursdays and Fridays, you can 'Sip & Shop' your way around Boston Public Market. Guests can enjoy beer and wine from a pop-up bar as they peruse the market's 40 food stalls.

SoWa Vintage Market is a haven of bric-a-brac that makes for pleasant people watching every Sunday. The rotating vendors sell everything from clothes to jewellery to art and furnishings.

For a proper harbour experience, get your hands on some Ipswich clams, steamed Wellfleet Littlenecks and raw East Coast oysters. Work up an appetite first with a walk along the shoreline.

AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

From top to bottom: The city's New Cathedral seen from the banks of Tormes River; an elaborate Moorish ceiling in Salamanca University

Salamanca With some substantial history, intellectual clout and a buzzing student population in its midst, the magical city of Salamanca bridges the best of ancient and modern Spain

espite its relatively small proportions, Salamanca has long been sought after. Since the 3rd century BC, when Hannibal sieged the city and made it his westernmost outpost, it has been fought over and prized by the Romans, Visigoths, Moors, Spanish Empire, Revolutionaries, Golden Age, and now, UNESCO, who have made it a World Heritage Site. Salamanca’s honey-coloured architecture is best sampled from Plaza Mayor; go early in the day to avoid the crowds. Once you’ve perused the arcaded walkways, Town Hall and Royal Pavilion dive into the back alleys for the less lauded beauty of intricate cobbled streets. Close by, the Casa de las Muertes is the earliest example of the city’s plateresque decoration, dating back to the 16th century. As with most Spanish cities, religion is omnipresent. Salamanca’s two cathedrals are contrasting and dominant landmarks – the Gothic

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Catedral Nueva (New Cathedral), dating back to 1513, is the more striking, while the medieval Catedral Vieja de Santa María (Old Cathedral) offers a more atmospheric experience. Other religious sites provide some of the city’s most charming moments – the Renaissance courtyard of Convento de la Dueñas and the Palacio de la Salina stand out.

Don’t miss •

Salamanca’s university was one of medieval Europe’s most excellent centres of learning. Although built in the 12th and 13th centuries, the 16th-century plateresque façade is what draws the crowds. • Casa de las Conchas (House of Shells) was built by a Knight of Santiago who attached 300 carved scallop shells onto the exterior of the building in homage to the Camino de Santiago (pilgrimage walk to Santiago de Compostela). • From Patio Chico on the cathedral walls, you can see both old and new cathedrals. After taking in the view of five centuries worth of history, get in among it by climbing up the towers and parapets through Museo Ieronimus. • Museo Casa Lis houses one of Salamanca’s best art collections. Art Deco delights include kitsch sculptures and garish vases, but it’s as much the building itself that draws a crowd – there’s a vast stained-glass roof in one atrium and a beautiful ironwork and glass façade at the back of the building.

Fast Facts Salamanca’s Old University has one of the world’s oldest libraries. Christopher Columbus sought approval for his journey to the West in Salamanca. There are 160,000 leather-bound volumes in the university library. Many street names are painted in a Romanesque font in blood-red paint (which used to be bulls blood).

•

Peruse Plaza Mayor at night when the cafés, street performers and boutiques come to life, and the ambience feels more congenial. The illumination of the surrounding buildings is spectacular.

Eating & Drinking

In true Spanish style, Salamanca prides itself on high-quality meat. Regional specialities include cured ham like jamón de bellota, Castilian black pudding called morcilla, and sweet and fluffy sponge biscuits known as amarguillos. EL MESON DE GONZALO ££

This traditional joint has been handed down through three generations; each perfecting the art of slow-cooked suckling lamb and patatas bravas (roasted potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce). Offering an escape from the summer heat is the stone-walled dining room.

T R AV E L

CUZCO ££

Depending on your mood, at Cuzco, you can dine on simple dishes of grilled meat and fish in the restaurant, or perch at the cosy bar with plates of regional specialities (of course, there’s plenty of jamón and local red wine, too).

Insider Tips

EL PECADO £££

If you fancy a break from tradition, this is the place to go. Although still very much Castilian in flavour, with fresh produce bought from the nearby Central Market, the menu, décor and clientele at El Pecado are laced with a modern flair. VALOR £

This unassuming café is possibly home to the Salamanca's best sweet treats. Close to the university, a churros and hot chocolate fix at Valor is the perfect respite from a busy day of sight-seeing in the city.

DELI DELIGHTS

SURPRISE SIGHTS

SKY-HIGH WONDERS

Delicatessens sell the best cured pork in the city; load up with jamón de bellota and find a shaded picnic spot such as the Huerto de Calixto y Melibea – the prettiest of Salamanca's parks.

Always look up; buildings in Salamanca have unexpectedly spectacular ceilings. The hidden Mudéjar-style ceiling in Convento de las Claras, home to a small museum, is always a favourite.

Guided night tours at Puerta de la Torre in the corner of the new cathedral are a great way to see Salamanca’s twinkling lights. Tours also include access to cathedral exhibitions.

AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

From top to bottom: The most charming of Strasbourg's houses are found in Petite France; the ornate façade of Cathédrale Nortre-Dame

Strasbourg Alsace’s fairy-tale capital straddles France and Germany, weaving between old and new to delight and surprise whatever the time of year

azing out across its medieval squares and cobbled alleys, you would be forgiven for forgetting that Strasbourg is the home of a divisive European Parliament. Politics aside, the city has year-round appeal – flower-adorned café tables beckon passers-by in summer, and Christmas markets bring festive cheer in winter. Straddling the Franco-German border, many agree it exudes the best of both. The Grande-Île is the city’s showpiece; the UNESCO-listed historic city centre is surrounded by the Canal du Faux-Rempart and River Ill. Little over 1km long and wide, the island is packed full of culture and architecture. Place Kléber is the main square and home to the city’s biggest Christmas market, although most visitors head straight to Cathédrale Notre-Dame to admire its Gothic architecture, 12th-century stained-glass windows and magnificent spire. On the western edges of the island is Petite

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France, home to the city’s most historic and picturesque houses where the tanners, millers and fishermen of yesteryear lived. For more historical intrigue, the Musée Alsacien recreates homes and interiors throughout two largely untouched 16th- and 17th-century houses, or hop on a Batorama boat trip to the 19th-century German Neustadt. For historical respite, the 26-acre Parc de l’Orangerie is the city’s best-loved recreational space; shaded pathways lead to secret waterfalls, and there’s a free zoo.

Don’t miss •

Eleven Christmas markets now host more than 300 vendor chalets, filling different parts of the city between 24 November and 30 December. Alsace treats on offer include hot wine, bredele cookies, and ornamental white storks. • Palais Rohan is considered to be a miniature Versailles thanks to its ornate 18th-century grandeur. Inside, there’s plenty for history lovers to feast on from the Musée Archéologique in the basement to the Musée des Beaux-Arts' old masters painting collection. • The striking Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain makes a nice visual change from the quaint medieval streets. Inside, works from Picasso, Monet and locally-born Gustave Doré are on display. • France’s largest mosque on the banks of the River Ill can accommodate 1,500 worshippers. Designed by an Italian architect, its

Fast Facts Storks are a symbol of Alsace, nesting in treetops in the spring. The cathedral’s astronomical clock strikes solar noon at 12.30pm every day. Greenpeace has awarded Strasbourg as the best city for green transport. The Alsace wine region has France's highest percentage of organic and biodynamic wines.

colossal copper dome is a symbol of religious tolerance in France. • Not only is Cave Historique des Hospices de Strasbourg one of France’s oldest medical institutions, but it also has a wine cellar dating back to the 14th century – over the years patients have left chunks of land that have accumulated into one vast vineyard.

Eating & Drinking

Whatever the season, the Alsatians have got food and drink wrapped up from choucroute garnie (grated cabbage pickled in wine) to a hearty baeckeoffe (casserole) and lashings of Riesling to wash it all down. BISTRO ET CHOCOLAT ££

Although just a stone’s throw from the cathedral, this top brunch spot enjoys peaceful surrounds on Rue de la Râpe. Breakfast feasts come with scrambled eggs, fruit and delicious homemade cake.

T R AV E L

AU CROCODILE ££££

This is one of Strasbourg’s most prized Michelin-star restaurants; a relaxed, sophisticated atmosphere is well suited to elegant dishes such as oyster tartar, scallops and roast turbot. Book well in advance.

Insider Tips

RESTAURANT AU PETIT BOIS VERT ££

Under the shade of a giant tree on the River Ill, this is about as picturesque a spot as you can get for an Alsatian lunch or dinner. Ingredients are local and organic, and the menu of hearty local dishes changes to suit the season. PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/ALAMY

ACADÉMIE DE LA BIÈRE £

Beer lovers should try at least a couple of the multitude of beers on offer at this hallmark of Strasbourg nightlife. Sensibly, food is on the menu too – mostly pub-like dishes like tarte flambée and moules frites.

ON YOUR BIKE

PERFECT PICNIC

RAISE A GLASS

Docking stations let you rent a Vélhop for just one euro to make the most of easy-going cycle paths in the car-free city centre. Or, take the Forts Trail to see the countryside that surrounds Strasbourg.

Quai St-Nicolas is a favourite picnic spot. Admire beautiful waterside houses while feasting on charcuterie, farmhouse cheeses and fresh bread picked up from one of the markets.

Place du Marché-Gayot is a lively cobbled square for pre-dinner drinks. Whether basking in the evening sun or huddling around a gluhwein, the UNESCO-listed hub is abuzz all year round.

AUT UM N 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK

INTERVIEW

Sissel KrykjebØ The world-renowned Norwegian opera singer discusses becoming godmother to Viking Jupiter At what age did you start singing?

I started in a children’s choir at the age of nine and started to sing professionally at 16; I have always loved singing. What musical genres have influenced and inspired you?

The radio was my main inspiration growing up. My brothers listened to Pink Floyd, Queen, Gilbert O’Sullivan, Kate Bush, Genesis, Manfred Mann and so on, while my parents loved Scandinavian pop, country music and Tom Jones. I remember I found a classical album, and

I think I was the only one who listened to it! I loved to dance and sing along when I was home alone. Kate Bush’s album Lionheart was the first album I ever bought, it was a big moment for me. And then at the age of 11, I heard Barbra Streisand singing on the radio and I was lost! I thought: if she can sing like that, I can too. I started analysing her technique and she became my first vocal coach, without ever knowing. How does Viking help to promote Scandinavian heritage?

VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | SUM MER 2019

What is your all-time favourite song?

That is a really tricky question! I have to admit, I don’t have one as it always depends on my mood.

What Karine and Torstein Hagen have achieved is just incredible, and as a Norwegian I am so proud when I visit the ships. For us Scandinavians they easily feel like home. The Norwegian and Scandinavian interior, design, culture and food is solid throughout the fleet. And guests are even greeted with people standing dressed in some of our National Costumes. This is looked upon in Norway as most honourable as they are the outfits we wear for special occasions.

How do you feel about becoming godmother of Viking Jupiter?

What has been the most special moment in your career?

At the shakedown, I was with my friends and my family, and everyone was so happy! To have this opportunity to enjoy the experience together, was the memory of a lifetime!

There have been so many! Singing during the intermission of the Eurovision song contest was in many ways the real start 74

of my career. Then the ceremonies at the 1994 Winter Olympic Games in Lillehammer, Christmas in Vienna, and Moscow with Placido Domingo and José Carreras are also extremely memorable. And of course, it was so special to work with the great composer James Horner on the score for the movie Titanic.

When Karine and Torstein Hagen asked me, I felt so honoured that they trusted me to become a godmother to their dear Viking Jupiter. I have sung at many of the other naming ceremonies and I thought that in itself was an honour, so this is very overwhelming. I feel I am part of the Viking family. What are your favorite memories from sailing on Viking Jupiter?

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Eight-day river cruises from £1,395pp Eight-day ocean cruises from £1,690pp Call 020 8780 7900 or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices & availability are correct at the time of going to print but are subject to change. From prices are based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom on a Danube Waltz river cruise and a Penthouse Veranda Stateroom on Iberian Explorer ocean cruise, departing on selected dates in 2020. Single supplements apply. Prices valid until 30 September 2019. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.