14 minute read
LIFE IN THE BIG HOUSE
EXCLUSIVE Life in The Big House
With the new Downton Abbey film imminent, we meet the household of the ‘real’ Downton Abbey, Highclere Castle Words and photos by Jeremy Flint
Above: Luis Coelho, head Luis Coelho, head butler, welcomes guests to the Drawing Room Left: The exterior of Highclere Castle
Right: Lady Carnarvon in the Library, with one of her seven dogs
Highclere Castle is a magnificent stately home in the heart of Hampshire that has gained global recognition as the filming location for the British period drama Downton Abbey.
The six seasons and feature film have enthralled audiences worldwide, where, through the magic of TV and cinema, this Grade I listed house has been turned into the Yorkshire mansion in which the aristocratic Crawley family live.
With this captivating property, its beautiful interiors, lavish costumes, and manicured country estate vistas, providing the most picturesque of backdrops, Downton Abbey tells the story of how Robert Crawley risks losing the family estate after his heirs die on the Titanic.
Soon, the Crawleys are introduced to Matthew, the next heir, who resists their way of life. The programme and subsequent films follow the family’s challenges as they adapt to the modern age, while focusing on the bonds that link the upstairs nobles with the downstairs servants, bridging the social class divide.
Parallels can be drawn between the fictional Lady Crawley and the 5th Countess of Carnarvon, Lady Almina, who in August 1914 turned Highclere Castle into a hospital for officers returning from the First World War, as featured in Series Two.
Today, Highclere is home to George Herbert and his wife Fiona, the 8th Earl and Countess of Carnarvon (Lord and Lady Carnarvon), owners of the ‘real’ Downton Abbey castle.
With the much-anticipated movie Downton Abbey: A New Era about to grace our screens (in the UK in April and USA in May), we were invited behind the scenes at Highclere Castle to meet Lady Carnarvon and some of the many people who work there.
“Highclere is much older than people might think” says Lady Carnarvon.
The history of Highclere can be traced back through the landscape and early written records to AD749, and has been in George’s family since 1679, when it was a Tudor house.
“It has been adapted and recycled,” says Lady Carnarvon. “In 1838, the 3rd Earl of Carnarvon brought in Sir Charles Barry (architect of the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben) to transform his home from a Georgian mansion into the grand Victorian Castle, which we know today as Downton Abbey.”
But how has Lady Carnarvon coped with sharing her home with camera crews and film sets for years? By pulling up her sleeves and getting stuck in, by the sound of things.
“When filming the television series, they were here for 6 or 7 months at a time, so we all got to know each other very well,” Lady Carnarvon says.
“My husband would open the door to them at 6 in the ➤
Above: John Gundill, Highclere’s general manager, in the Saloon Right: Luis, head butler, preparing the Dining Room for dinner morning. It was a 13-hour day, and a team of guides would be on hand with John, our castle manager. I checked everything was unplugged as the day ended and would close the door behind them in the evening, once everyone had left,” she adds.
“Everyone was very respectful of our home and our treasured artworks, and our dogs were very fond of the catering van they brought! They had an excellent pop-up coffee shop with the latest film as well.”
Certain scenes have become special to Lady Carnavon. “I remember Downton recruited extras at our real summer fete, to create the scenes in their fete, which was really enjoyable to see” she says.
According to Lady Carnarvon, life today in the big house differs greatly from the screen. “It has a different role than one for which it was created, I have more dogs – seven! – and there are more people who work here today than in Downton, playing varied roles as we welcome visitors,” she says. “A lot of work goes on in the gardens and on the farm in the real Downton Abbey!”
Highclere Castle has featured on the UK tourist map since opening to the public in 1988, but Downton Abbey has brought an international audience. Highclere receives around 1,500 visitors a day during the peak summer season, with many coming from around the world.
Lady Carnarvon says: “We are working hard to make the best of the marketing platform Downton Abbey provides by building on our brand with Highclere Castle Gin. I have also written books. We are helping Highclere to play its part on the world stage.”
There are 250-300 rooms in the castle, including the state rooms from Downton Abbey. Some of the most elegant rooms include the Library, the Saloon, and the
Dining Room, which cling onto their historical roots, furnished with extravagant chandeliers, wallpapers, and family portraits. You can tour the rooms and visit the cellars and old staff quarters, where you will find the Egyptian antiquities, celebrating the 5th Earl of Carnarvon’s role in the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun (which marks its centenary this year).
Lady Carnarvon’s favourite room is the library. “Who does not love the library?” she says. “But equally, I enjoy the Orient room, and of course climbing to the top of the Tower (the highest point of the castle) to look down on an Arcadian landscape and almost back in time.”
The castle looks out over 1,000 acres of spectacular parkland, designed by the famous 18th-century landscape gardener Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown.
“I have tried to share this [outdoor aspect of the castle] through the book Seasons at Highclere, offering stories, recipes, history and photos. Not everyone can watch the seasons as I can, and they offer havens, tranquillity, and inspiration. Of course, that then comes back inside the house for thinking about and sharing rooms with a view.”
At the helm of Lady Carnarvon’s esteemed team is John Gundill, Highclere’s general manager. John is responsible for the day-to-day running of the house, and events, working closely with all the castle staff. He manages the kitchen, banqueting, housekeeping, ➤
gardeners, estate staff, farm workers, and pretty much anything else, where required. John’s role has never really existed in Downton Abbey, as big houses in the first half of the 20th century weren’t businesses in the way they are today. Nevertheless, John loves managing the Downton Abbey filming requirements, as well as overseeing the larger outdoor park-based events, from concerts to game fairs and clay pigeon shoots, which take place during the year.
Having worked for Lord and Lady Carnarvon for over 16 years, John has many fantastic memories. “No two days are the same” he says. “Both Lord and Lady Carnarvon are very hands on and involved in all aspects of the business and the public love to meet them.
“I think humour is hugely important. I don’t think I would do what I do if it didn’t involve laughter. I am able to enjoy the beauty of the estate, and the sunsets and sunrises never cease to inspire. I have seen many early summer sunrises for filming, and I have been privileged to share and be present at some amazing events during my time here at Highclere.”
Luis Coelho, head butler at Highclere, is the modernday equivalent of Mr Carson.
“I’ve been working at Highclere for 14 years as butler to Lord and Lady Carnarvon, and I am also the banqueting manager, overseeing all the food and
beverages for public opening and event days,” he says.
“It is an absolute pleasure to work for Lady Carnarvon and I am so grateful to be part of life at Highclere Castle. Everyone likens me to ‘Carson’, only shorter with a better sense of humour.
“Carson is often described as a mirror for all parts of my role here and I have a great working relationship with Lady Carnarvon.”
Luis resides at the castle and entertains the family and friends of theirs, who often stay. “When family are in residence, we do a butler service in the same style as Downton, and I have a full team of butlers who work for me,” he says.
“My team share lots of roles and keep standards, it takes three hours to set the table and we ensure everything is perfect. We find out in advance whether there are any allergies, so we can make it a great experience for everyone.”
In the summer, with over a thousand visitors, Luis can manage 45-50 staff and all the food and beverage requirements, including a cocktail bar, takeaways, and a vintage ice cream van. “We work as they do in Downtown Abbey, although the kitchen is away from the house” says Luis.
Luis enjoys looking after the guests, whether VIPs or day visitors, and has endless funny moments to draw on from his time at Highclere. “Laughter is a big part of life at Highclere. We welcome thousands of people from all over the world and therefore we are never short of humour”, he says.
“We play games with the staff and have puppy parties, getting all the dogs together who were born here from different litters, including my Cocker Spaniel.” Lady Carnarvon, who is known for her sense of humour, always joins in, Luis says.
“I love the beauty the different seasons bring, including the colourful trees in autumn, and snow in winter. I even managed to go sledging with Lord and Lady Carnarvon and the dogs a few years ago, when we got snowed in,” Luis adds.
Luis’s highlight so far was the Highclere Castle Gin launch party, where the castle was turned purple to reflect the gin bottle. “It was both challenging and exciting to make cocktails for 200 people, including press and locals. We wanted to wow people,” he says.
Jason Nash, a full-time housekeeper, is one of the newbies at Highclere, responsible for making beds, hoovering, and cleaning. He is part of a small team who keep the castle pristine for the family who live there and visitors who arrive.
“I liken my role to Mr Barrow,” he says, referencing the Downton Abbey character and footman. Jason’s favourite part of the job is having access to all areas of Highclere Castle, including the incredible Egyptian exhibition.
His most memorable moment was climbing the Tower “even if it was to hoover up dead flies” he says.
Mainly working back of house and behind the scenes, Jason sometimes covers front of house, assisting Luis with the guests. Although his time at Highclere has been brief, Jason has fitted in well and is a great team player. He loves working for Lady Carnarvon and describes it as like having a second family.
With the new Downton Abbey movie due to hit screens, it’s great to see the real-life castle thriving, with a wonderfully hard-working team at its core. n To find out more and to arrange a visit to the castle, go to highclerecastle.co.uk
Left: Jason Nash, one of Highclere’s housekeepers, adding some finishing touches in the Saloon
Killeavy Castle Estate The Future of Luxury
Set within 350 acres of woodland and working farmland, in the foothills of Slieve Gullion in County Armagh, the luxurious Killeavy Castle Estate is the perfect base to experience historic, beautiful and vibrant Ireland.
Just one hour from both Dublin and Belfast, Killeavy Castle Estate has the beautifully refurbished castle as its centrepiece – a Grade A-listed, 19th-century gem that lay derelict for many years, before being restored. The castle is joined by an award-winning 45-bedroom luxury boutique-style hotel, with spa, restaurant and bar, and a picturesque self-catering Gatelodge.
The estate opened in 2019 following a £12m investment, and sits within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. While the history and majesty of Killeavy Castle embodies the luxury experience, Killeavy is grounded in an ethos of sustainability, with a working farm and walled gardens providing 90 per cent of the food served in the award-winning restaurant.
Clockwise, from left: A view of the Killeavy Castle Estate with the restored 19thcentury castle; the hotel spa’s pool area; the modern hotel bar with views of the surrounding woodland
The estate is also leading the way in sustainable tourism, with the aim of creating a legacy of sustainability. A new Farm Store and Estate Garden will open in March 2022. Guests can visit the farm animals, walk the walled gardens and see how the meat that features on the menus is cured, smoked and preserved. The estate has also introduced zero plastics and energy reduction policies, and plans to restore the 19th-century water wheel for renewable energy production. Working towards achieving net zero by 2027, the estate has embarked upon a reforestation initiative that will see the replanting of Slieve Gullion forest with broadleaf trees.
From the hotel, guests can enjoy the magnificent countryside surrounding Killeavy, with miles of scenic walking and cycling trails accessible directly from the estate. Foraging, forest bathing, mindfulness experiences and ebike hire are also on offer.
Killeavy Castle Estate’s central location makes it the perfect base to explore the east coast of Ireland. Take a day trip north to visit Belfast, with its vibrant shopping and entertainment scene. The world-leading Titanic Belfast museum celebrates its 10th anniversary this year and the Cathedral Quarter, Ulster Museum, Botanic Gardens and St. George’s Market are all worth a visit.
Just one hour south of Killeavy is Ireland’s capital city, Dublin, with its many attractions, including the Guinness Storehouse, Book of Kells, Trinity College and the historic Dublin Castle.
Closer to home, in County Armagh, guests can explore the historic cathedral city of Armagh, tour some of the many orchards that pepper the countryside, and visit the 250-year-old Robinson Library and the Armagh Planetarium.
Game of Thrones fans should visit the world’s first ever Game of Thrones tour at the Linen Mill Studios, Banbridge. For the adventurous, a short drive east takes you to County Down, where you can climb the Mountains of Mourne and master Slieve Donard, or take in some Irish history at St. Patrick’s grave and visitor centre in Downpatrick. To find out more about Killeavy Castle Estate and make a reservation, visit KilleavyCastle.com
