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THE WINE MENU Leading city oenophiles offer up tipples for the table

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Three London wine experts offer their picks for Christmas, including some thoughtful choices with sustainable credentials

RICHARD GLADWIN

Co-owner of Nutbourne, Battersea, Rabbit in Chelsea and newly opened The Fat Badger in Richmond

Christmas is all about family coming together across multi-generations, so make sure there’s something for everyone. It’s always a nice touch to make sure you know your guests’ preferences before placing a wine order – this will then be a talking point throughout the meal.

This year consider a English sparkling. Nutty Vintage Brut 2017 (£25.50 from nutbournevineyards.com), is a particular favourite. I always think buying local is the way to go. Visit your local vineyard and take time to learn about the wine and the producer. Whatever wine you choose, consider the farming and its origin, look for organic and biodynamic producers, or at the larger end of the scale, the welfare of the farming. The wines I purchase for our restaurants are chosen from producers with a similar ethos in their farming methods, using smaller production scales and reduced spraying.

For the cheeseboard, classically people go for Bordeaux – I like a Cru Bourgeois, 2010 if possible. This is probably because they have opened too many bottles for the main course. I think it’s always nice to invigorate your palate whilst eating pudding or a cheese board. For example, an acidic and aromatic white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, such as a Famille Perrin Châteauneuf-du-Pape, or glass of Champagne, cuts through the fat of the cheese and gives a better taste.

For a dessert wine or aperitif, try Secret de Château Biac. Warning: don’t open too much red wine with the main course. nutbournevineyards.com DAWN DAVIES MW

Head buyer at The Whisky Exchange, fi ne wine and spirits retailer

When it comes to sparkling wines, Chardonnay-based Champagnes are fabulous as an aperitif. The growers at Lelarge Pugeot work organically and biodynamically and achieve a really good concentration out of their grapes so are a delightful accompaniment to shellfish platter on Christmas Day (Lelarge Pugeot, pictured above, £36.75-£56.95).

With a chalky, linear character perfect with fresh oysters, Jacques Lassaigne is first and foremost a great wine and then a great Champagne (£49.95). He uses very low levels of sulphur and only at the press. This gives a delicate bubble and linear almost-chalky Chablis quality to the palate.

Finally Veuve Fourny (£34.75-£53.45) always delivers great value for money, whether it is their standard Cuvée or their vintage. This is the perfect gift to take along to celebrate the season that won’t break the bank but will make you look amazing! look amazing! t thewhiskyexchange.com hewhiskyexchange.com GILES BURKE-GAFFNEY

Buying director, Justerini & Brooks wine and spirits merchants

There’s so much going on Christmas Day, not to mention on the plate, that I think what you want is a good serviceable wine, but perhaps not your best bottles. I often find an older southern Rhone is a great choice. Yannick Feraud is amongst the most exciting young winemaking talent in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and his Chateauneufdu-Pape, Domaine Feraud et Fils, 2017 at £38.58, has striking finesse. If I’m going to open a best bottle at Christmas, it’ll be Champagne – at the start of the day. Pierre Paillard, Les Parcelles, Bouzy, Grand Cru, at £32.82, has to be one of the best serious nonvintage cuvées on the market and is great all on its own, but with enough stuffing to pair with roast chicken. Alternatively, Pascal Douquet, Arpège, 1er Cru, Extra Brut, NV, at £34.42. Winemaking for this 100 per cent Chardonnay Champagne is natural and non-interventionist, with only wild yeasts used for fermentations.

Justerini & Brooks has worked with Château de Meursault, below, since 2012. Château de Meursault, Bourgogne Blanc, ‘Clos du Château’, 2017, £26.68, is a pure and impeccably balanced white Burgundy.

Finally, every Christmas table needs a sherry. Bodegas Tradición is a unique Sherry Bodega that bottles consistently genre-defining, mature wines that are a veritable assault on the senses – in the nicest possible way (Bodegas Tradición, Amontillado, Vors, 30 years, £63.56). L justerinis.com

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