ISLES OF WONDER

This image: Connecting ‘Big‘ Sark and ‘Little‘ Sark, La Coupée is a 100m-long causeway o ering spectacular views

The Channel Islands are fringed with beautiful beaches, lapped by clear waters, teeming with wildlife, and rich in history, and yet remain relatively under-visited. Henrietta Easton uncovers some of the islands’ best-kept secrets

Alderney’s perfect white-sand coves, impossibly blue waters, sea-bird populated cliffs, and quaint fishermen’s houses will warmly welcome you to the island

Clockwise, from left: Alderney is a bird watcher’s paradise and The Alderney Wildlife Trust runs regular bird tours; Essex Castle was built by the Tudors, later used by the Victorians, and occupied by the Germans in WWII; The Blonde Hedgehog hotel serves delicious dishes in a thoroughly modern setting headland), and the island’s main town, St Anne, which clifftops, offering spectacular views and a glimpse practically covers Alderney in its entirety, is bustling into Alderney’s fascinating history, which dates from during the day, even if in the evening activity is confined Neolithic times. to one or two pubs and restaurants on the town’s main The oldest site on the island is a burial chamber named street, Victoria Street. Roc à l’Epine dating from 4,000 BC.

St Anne is wonderfully pretty, with winding cobbled Just a few metres from this site lies the best-preserved streets that feel unmistakably French – not surprising small Roman fort in Britain (now known as The since France is just a few kilometres away. You are aware Nunnery), which dates from the 4th century and looks that you are not in France, however, thanks to the out over the island’s only natural harbour at Longis Bay. number of undeniably British tea rooms that line Victoria Also overlooking Longis Bay are the ruins of Essex Street, alongside gift shops Castle, built by the Tudors. selling buckets and spades, You can’t come to the island During Victorian times and the fact that the pubs are clearly the hub of the town’s without meeting some of Alderney was heavily fortified by the British activity during the evenings. During the day, the most Alderney’s wildlife, including in response to the French extending their popular shop in town is the the blonde hedgehog with its fortifications at Cherbourg. bike shop, Cycle & Surf, which has queues out the distinct cream-coloured spine The British built 18 forts and batteries to protect the door every morning during island. Many of these are summer. It’s worth getting up early to join the queue, now privately owned and some have been converted into or better still book in advance, as although it’s perfectly stylish homes. Some of the forts are now derelict (these possible to walk around the island in a day, using bikes is are particularly good for spotting the wildlife that have the easiest way to explore the 10 miles of paved roads made them their home), while others were occupied and and many more miles of pathways that snake their way fortified by the Germans during the Second World War. around the island. The German forts are all in near-perfect condition, and

Having bikes is also the best way to see the island’s visitors can walk through hidden passageways, warrens abandoned forts, which are dotted on the island’s of trenches, and gun chambers, many of which still have reminders of their German occupiers, including bunks and bathrooms. If you’d like to learn more about Alderney’s Second World War story, the Alderney Museum in St Anne’s town centre has an enormous collection of artefacts, including real pieces of a wrecked Spitfire. Those looking for a typical bucket-and-spade seaside holiday will find every box ticked on the island. Braye, one of the island’s most popular beaches, is just a short walk from the town centre and close to a restaurant, café, and the Braye Beach Hotel, with its unrivalled sea views. If you’re looking for somewhere quieter, one of the best beaches is Saye, conveniently located by an idyllic little campsite, and sheltered by rocky headlands, making it perfect for swimming. Even in summer you will often find you have the entire beach to yourself, but for a couple of grey seals or a noisy oystercatcher – instantly recognisable by their orange beaks and loud ‘peep-ing’ call. You can’t come to the island without meeting some of Alderney’s impressive wildlife, including the blonde hedgehog, with its distinct cream-coloured spine. © CATHERINE DAVIS PHOTOGRAPHY/CHRIS GEORGE The Alderney Wildlife Trust runs a wide range of activities, walks and tours throughout the year, including bat and hedgehog walks, and boat trips to spot seabirds (including the island’s puffin colony). For the more adventurous, there are even kayaking trips where you can venture into caves and reach unspoilt beaches. If you’d like a little bit of luxury during your stay, the brand-new boutique hotel, The Blonde Hedgehog, offers an effortlessly stylish and comfortable home away from home for your visit. Housing two suites, seven rooms, a family-friendly cottage, and a self-catering farmhouse,

© ALAN COPSON/AWL IMAGES/CHRIS GEORGE PHOTOGRAPHY/NICK DESPRES Left: Mont Orgueil Castle is Jersey’s largest castle, and has looked over Gorey harbour for more than 800 years Below, left to right: Hauteville House on Guernsey was home to author Victor Hugo during his exile from France; Herm has a population of just 60 permanent residents and cars are prohibited on the island, making it the perfect destination for a peaceful getaway the hotel’s calming seaside hues of sage green, deep maroons, and slate grey, make it feel like a little oasis in the town centre, with roll-top baths, rustic, relaxed furnishings, and ridiculously comfortable beds.

The hotel restaurant offers the best food on the island. Enjoy a cocktail in their pretty little suntrap garden before sitting down to a menu of locally sourced, farm-to-table ingredients, with surprising, modern twists, all inspired by Alderney and the Channel Islands.

As well as regular flights from a handful of major UK airports, Alderney is easily accessible by boat from both Guernsey and Jersey. And, if you’re in the area, why not explore the other islands in the archipelago, each of which offers its own attractions.

Jersey

At five miles long and nine miles wide, Jersey is the largest of the Channel Islands and, being further south, it feels more like it’s in the Mediterranean than the English Channel. The island has a totally unique identity, as well as its own language – Jèrriais.

As well as a handful of pretty towns, including the bustling capital St Helier, Jersey is blessed with a stunning coastline, incredible beaches, and miles of stunning coastal routes to explore. Like Alderney, the island’s history is rich and there is plenty to see – from ancient burial grounds and castles to Second World War bunkers, which tell stories of resistance, liberation, and celebration.

One unique historical site visitors can stay in is Elizabeth Castle, which dates from around 1590 and was once home to Sir Walter Raleigh, while he was governor of Jersey. Prince Charles (later King Charles II) also sought refuge here during the English Civil War. The castle, which offers a self-catering apartment, sits one mile off the coast of St Helier and is surrounded by sea twice a day. Another castle worth visiting is the medieval Mont Orgueil Castle, which has overlooked Gorey harbour, on the east of the island, for centuries. visitjersey.com

Guernsey

Head north on the ferry from Jersey and you’ll reach Guernsey, the second largest island in the archipelago, and the former home of French writer Victor Hugo. Guernsey is best known for the scenery of its coastal cliffs, its 13th-century fortifications, and, of course, its pristine white beaches. The waterfront Cobo Bay Hotel (cobobayhotel.com) is the perfect base from which to enjoy all the island has to offer, and its restaurant is the ideal spot in which to take in one of the beautiful Guernsey sunsets and watch pods of dolphins swim past, while sipping on a cocktail…or two.

Herm

Just 20 minutes by ferry from St Peter Port in Guernsey is Herm, home to Europe’s most southerly puffin colony,

local pods of dolphins and long stretches of unspoilt beaches and sandy cliff paths. The island has options for camping and self-catering cottages, as well as the harbour-side White House Hotel, which boasts amazing sea views and a Britain in Bloom Gold award-winning island as its garden. herm.com

Sark

The smallest of the islands, and just 50 minutes by ferry from Guernsey, Sark is considered to be the archipelago’s crown jewel. A visit here is like stepping back in time. Cars – apart from tractors – are prohibited so it is best to get around by bike, or, if you’d prefer, horse-drawn carriage. With a population of 500, rising to about 1000 in peak season, Sark is an undiscovered gem.

Although you could see the incredible La Seigneurie Gardens on a day trip, an overnight stay is recommended as Sark is the world’s first designated Dark Sky Island. With no public lighting in the lanes and only farm vehicles on the road, locals use The Milky Way to navigate, and it is at night-time that the island really shows her magic. There is a good selection of hotels, B&Bs and self-catering cottages for those wishing to experience Sark’s night skies. sark.co.uk

Each with their own identity, history, and laws, although the Channel Islands lie just south of the English coast, they feel like a totally different world. If you’re looking to reconnect with nature, explore hidden beaches, discover the islands’ history, and get up close to some wonderful marine wildlife, you will not be disappointed. n

PLAN YOUR VISIT

Our tips on getting to the Channel Islands by sea and air

Flights operate all year to Jersey, Guernsey and Alderney from London City, Heathrow, Luton, Gatwick, Manchester, Glasgow, and Birmingham, as well as Southampton, Liverpool, Bristol, and Exeter. britishairways.com; aurigny.com (for Guernsey and Alderney)

Condor Ferries connects the ports of Guernsey and Jersey with Poole and Portsmouth and is the only UK ferry service that sails to Guernsey and Jersey. condorferries.co.uk

Owned by The Blonde Hedgehog Hotel, The Salty Blonde provides a ferry service from Alderney to Guernsey, Sark, Herm, and Jersey, and charters to the UK and France are available. Thesaltyblonde.gg

A few ferry services operate from St Peter Port, Guernsey, to Sark and Herm, for a spot of island hopping. traveltrident.com; sarkshipping.gg Below: La Seigneurie Gardens on the Isle of Sark, in the grounds of a beautiful 17th-century manor, is one of the nest walled gardens in Europe

© REINHARD SCHMID/4CORNERS IMAGES