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EDITOR’S LETTER

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Welcome

Don’t you love this time of year when wintry days and dark evenings are on the way out and spring blooms are waiting to burst into life in a riot of colour? We’ve certainly got spring sunshine on our mind in this issue, with a visit to MSC Cruises’ private island Ocean Cay in the Bahamas (page 24), a small-ship cruise around the Caribbean (page 32), and a sunny sailing in Egypt just in time for the release of Kenneth Branagh’s film remake, Death on the Nile (page 60). If you’re not thinking of jetting off to the sun just yet, we also have fantastic flight-free cruises for spring and summer, so you can skip the airport and sail from British shores or travel by rail or ferry to your departure point (page 48). The sheer variety of no-fly sailings shows how lucky we are to love cruise – there are so many places to see by ship. We also take a train ride through the Rockies to find out why Canada’s famous rail journey is such a popular add-on to Alaska cruises (page 70), get the lowdown on once-in-adecade events in Europe this year (page 108), and find out what to expect on an Antarctica voyage (page 88). If you have any cruise questions to ask our expert panel or want to share a photo of yourself on board, you can send them to info@cruise-international.com, and they could be published in our next issue. Which just leaves the incredible story of how former BBC political editor John Sergeant came to witness Martin Luther King Jr’s most famous speech first-hand – what a special moment.

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The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ. Tel: 020 7349 3700. Email: info@cruise-international.com. Website: www.cruise-international.com EDITORIAL Editor Katie McGonagle Art Director Andrea Lynch Sub-Editor David Powning Contributors Jane Archer, Rebecca Barnes, Laura French, Kaye Holland, Jamie Lafferty, Sara Macefield, Jeannine Williamson DIGITAL Digital Product Manager Ben Iskander Digital Editor Claire Benktander Digital Marketing Assistant Olivia Matthew ADVERTISING Group Director of Sales Catherine Chapman Sales Manager Warren Wilkinson PUBLISHING Publisher Simon Temlett Managing Director James Dobson Chief Financial Officer Vicki Gavin Chairman Paul Dobson NEWS DISTRIBUTION News Trade (UK and Rest of World): Seymour International Ltd., 2 East Poultry Avenue, London, EC1A 9PT CRUISE INTERNATIONAL (Print ISSN 1758-2326) (Online ISSN 2396-9237) is published bi-monthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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CONTENTS

FEATURES

24 New Ships

Reviews of Holland America Line’s Rotterdam and MSC Seashore

32 Caribbean Islands

Set sail with Star Clippers on a small-ship cruise in the Caribbean

40 Wellbeing on Board

Find out how Celebrity Apex has raised the standard for spas at sea

48 No-Fly Cruises

Skip the airport queues with our top flight-free cruises to book now

60 Nile Voyages

REGULARS 6

Australia is back on track for travel so we look at cruising Down Under

Follow in the footsteps of Poirot and co with a Uniworld sailing on the Nile

Hot Spot

On Our Radar

Dine out in the Norwegian port city named Europe’s top spot for food

68 Croatian Coast

5 of the best yacht cruises in Croatia

70 Rocky Mountaineer

Extend your Alaska cruise by adding on Canada’s most scenic rail journey

11 Cruise News

82 Dos and Don’ts

The latest travel trends, new ships and cruise programmes for 2022/23

Practical tips for your next cruise

18 Shopping

88 Antarctica

19 Cruise Well

98 City Guide

Brighten up your travel wardrobe with our top style picks for spring

Inspire a sense of adventure with a step-by-step guide to Antarctica

Silversea’s new spa, healthy eating with Oceania and latest beauty buys

Forget Venice, try Verona instead

100 Women in Cruise

20 Celebrity Recipes

Marking International Women’s Day

Saturday Kitchen chef and author Shivi Ramoutar on Caribbean cuisine

108 River Events

Rhine in Flames, Floriade Expo and the Oberammergau passion play

80 Win with Princess Cruises

Enter our competition now for your chance of a Spain & France escape

ON THE COVER

96 Online

Our pick of highlights from new-look website cruise-international.com

112 Ask the Experts PICTURES: ALUN CALLENDER; ANDREW BURTON SHUTTERSTOCK\JOCELYN O; ROCKY MOUNTAINEER

All your questions about cruising answered by those in the know

114 Celebrity Travels

John Sergeant on seeing Martin Luther King’s most famous speech

SHUTTERSTOCK/BIST

© The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd 2022 All rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The information in CRUISE INTERNATIONAL has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by contributors to CRUISE INTERNATIONAL are not necessarily those of the publisher. For up to date travel advice, always check fco.gov.uk before you go.

Printed in England by William Gibbons, West Midlands. Origination by All Points Media www.allpointsmedia.co.uk CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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Kimberley, Australia

Forget Kylie – the name on the lips of Aussie cruise fans this year is Kimberley, the remote, rugged northwest region that is best visited by ship. It’s as far as you can get from the perennially popular cities of Sydney and Melbourne, so it rarely makes it onto the radar of first-time travellers, but whether you’ve been Down Under before or you simply want to celebrate the long-awaited reopening of Australia’s national borders with a truly epic trip, Kimberley is one-of-a-kind. You’ll be well rewarded with vast tracts of red-rock terrain that hold some mind-boggling marvels of nature, from the beehive-shaped stacks of the Bungle Bungles in Purnululu National Park (pictured) to the giant dinosaur print still visible on the shores of Broome. There’s even the Horizontal Falls – described by Sir David Attenborough as one of the greatest wonders of the world – where enormous tidal currents squeeze through two impossibly narrow gorges to create the effect of a waterfall that flows horizontally. Add examples of Aboriginal rock art, some of it recent and some many thousands of years old, along with abundant wildlife and endless wilderness, and interest in this sparsely populated region is set to soar. >> Turn to page 88 for more on expedition cruising

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PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/RIPPLE100

HOT SPOT

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Trondheim, Norway

Tucked away on the banks of Norway’s fjord-filled coastline, Trondheim is a guaranteed feature on any cruise itinerary along these shores. While you might saunter through the city’s compact centre – stopping to take photos of its colourful waterfront wharves from the Gamle Bybro (Old Town Bridge) or admire the magnificent façade of the Nidaros Cathedral – don’t miss the foodie revolution going on behind its quiet cobbled streets. Trondheim and the surrounding region of Trøndelag have been awarded the title of European Region of Gastronomy in 2022, showcasing top-class chefs and passionate local producers who have made this spot Norway’s leading culinary destination. The city is home to the world’s three most northerly Michelin-starred restaurants: the chandelier-filled dining room at Speilsalen; Credo, which was granted Michelin’s first sustainability award; and Fagn, where you can sample traditional dishes with a startlingly modern twist. But even if you’re simply keen to sample a few wares, look out for ‘monk cheese’ munkebyosten, take a sip of local brew aquavit and get a taste of fresh seafood and sustainably grown veggies from the farmlands that surround the city. >> Turn to page 48 for a selection of no-fly cruises from the UK

PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/SORINCOLAC

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For 36 years Coral Expeditions has operated with a single purpose – to take small groups of like-minded explorers to remote places with expert guidance and warm Australian hospitality. Our modern fleet of 3 small expedition ships have been purpose built and designed with comfort and capability for exploring the most remote small islands and coastal realms. With all approvals in place, a safe travel environment, and flexible booking terms, you can sail with us in confidence on our upcoming expeditions.

> Australia’s coastal wilderness Kimberley, Tasmania, Great Barrier Reef > Small Islands of the Indian Ocean > Raja Ampat, Spice Islands and Papua New Guinea > Small Islands of Japan and The Philippines > Melanesia and New Zealand

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Cruise News SHIPS / EVENTS / DESTINATIONS

ANTARCTICA BOOST FOR SCENIC Scenic has seen bookings to Antarctica double in the past year and has unveiled a 2023/24 programme to the region featuring fly-cruises and an Antarctic Circle crossing. The Antarctica and South America Voyages & Land Journeys collection features a second ‘discovery yacht’, Scenic Eclipse II, which will join its sister vessel in Antarctica in December 2023. Among the additions are fly-cruises that skip the notorious Drake Passage with a two-hour flight to King George Island, where guests embark on an 11-day Wild Antarctica: Fly the Drake voyage. Prices start at £13,450 departing December 24, 2023. A 19-day Beyond the Antarctic Circle voyage is also new,

heading to the far south to see changes in environment, sea ice and wildlife. Prices start at £15,850 on February 8, 2024. A Super Earlybird offer saves up to 20% off the cruise fare if you book and pay for a cruise in full 12 months before departure (scenic.co.uk).

STAR CLIPPERS IN COSTA RICA Star Clippers is marking the introduction of new destination Costa Rica with 20% off selected sailings to the central American country. The offer is valid until April 30 and applies to sailings on December 10 and 17, 2022, and January 7, 2023, meaning prices now start from £1,251 per person for a seven-night trip. Other departures have 10% off. There are two itineraries, with ports of call including Quepos, Isla Tortugas and San Juan del Sur in Nicaragua (starclippers.co.uk).

NEW SHIPS COMING SOON DISCOVERY PRINCESS VALIANT LADY EMERALD AZZURRA WONDER OF THE SEAS SPIRIT OF THE DANUBE

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/GALYNA ANDRUSHKO; ISTOCK

BRANSON’S NEW MIAMI TERMINAL Virgin Voyages has opened a cruise terminal in Miami in a ceremony led by company founder Richard Branson (left). The three-storey Terminal V at PortMiami includes an outdoor terrace and VIP pre-boarding lounge for suite guests, and has achieved LEED gold certiﬁcation for its energy-efﬁcient design. Virgin Voyages chief executive Tom CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

McAlpin said: “Terminal V gives us greater opportunity to elevate the sailor experience from the moment you see the ‘ahoy’ sign to the time you disembark.” The Port of Seattle has also unveiled a new International Arrivals Facility at Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, which includes a walkway set 85 feet above an aircraft taxi lane. M A RCH /A PR IL 2022 |

NEW SHORE EXCURSIONS BR AND

HURTIGRUTEN’S 100-DAY ADVENTURES Hurtigruten has announced a series of pole-to-pole expeditions lasting nearly 100 days, covering four continents and more than 100 landing sites, among a new range of Grand Expedition Cruises. There are three sailings, all departing in August 2023, on board hybrid-powered Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen plus custom-built expedition ship Fram. They depart from Vancouver, Reykjavik and Montreal respectively, ticking off destinations including Alaska, Greenland, the Panama Canal, Ecuador, Peru, the Chilean fjords and ending in Antarctica. Hurtigruten Expeditions chief executive Asta Lassesen said: “These are undoubtedly the most unique and exclusive expedition cruises we have ever offered in our 126-year history, and we believe that these are the ultimate expedition cruise experiences. “These extraordinary voyages will showcase some of the most spectacular nature and wildlife on our planet and offer authentic encounters with unique cultures.” (hurtigruten.co.uk)

Cruising Excursions has rebranded as Venture Ashore and now claims to be the world’s largest independent shore excursions provider. The UK-based cruise excursions company was acquired by US firm Hornblower Group – which also owns City Cruises and American Queen Voyages – last year and has now been integrated into the new brand. Venture Ashore offers excursions in 111 countries, with departures from 500 ports of call and more than 5,000 individual tours worldwide. It offers full refunds up to 24 before the excursions and a ‘back-to-ship’ guarantee. Chief operating officer Rinat Glinert said: “We are thrilled to launch Venture Ashore and share with travellers our collection of tour offerings that will fully immerse you in the sights, sounds, tastes, passions and cultures in cruise destinations around the globe.” Venture Ashore will operate via an office in Staffordshire (ventureashore.com).

P&O HITS MILESTONE FOR ARVIA P&O Cruises has held its traditional coin-laying ceremony for new ship Arvia, a major milestone in the construction of the vessel at the Meyer Werft shipyard in Papenburg, prior to its launch in December. P&O Cruises president, Paul Ludlow, said: “Arvia will be our second ship to be powered by liquefied natural gas as part of P&O Cruises’ ongoing commitment to sustainable travel. These coins, with the workmanship and skill of everyone gathered today – and so many more – will keep and protect all on board this spectacular ship.” The ceremony used specially selected coins from homeport Barbados as part of a long-standing ship-building custom (pocruises.com). 12

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CRUISE NEWS

AZAMARA AROUND THE WORLD Azamara has released its 2024 World Voyage, a 155-day journey around the globe on new ship Azamara Onward. It will set sail on January 5, 2024, from Florida and visit 40 countries on six continents. The epic voyage is made up of 10 segments that can be booked individually or back-toback, with highlights including the Great Wall of China, Petra in Jordan, the Pyramids in Giza and Rio de Janeiro (right). Each segment booking will include an Experience More Essentials Package of free Wi-Fi, $300 onboard credit and an upgraded premium drinks package (azamara.co.uk).

SWAN HELLENIC’S VEGA FLOATS OUT

MSC VIRTUOSA

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK/ISITSHARP/SOL STOCK; MSC CRUISES; INGRID FIEBAK-KREMER; OSCAR E FERRERA GONZALEZ/HURTIGRUTEN

STAYS IN SOUTHAMPTON MSC Cruises has extended its UK and Arabian Gulf programmes in response to demand. MSC Virtuosa (above) will operate an extra four sailings from Southampton in October, while MSC Bellissima will remain in Dubai until June. Virtuosa’s new itineraries take in the western Mediterranean, Spain and Portugal plus a halfterm departure to the Canary Islands, before the ship moves to Genoa in Italy in November. Antonio Paradiso, UK & Ireland

CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

managing director for MSC Cruises, said: “Officially it’s the longest season we’ve ever done from the UK, and it’s on board one of the most beautiful new ships in our fleet. Sailing from the UK is a hassle-free experience – all you need to do is pack up a suitcase and get on board!” Bellissima was due to move to Asia but will now be based in Dubai from April until June for cruises to Abu Dhabi and Doha (msccruises.co.uk).

Swan Hellenic’s second expedition cruise ship, Vega, has been floated out of dry dock at Helsinki Shipyard, to be delivered in May. The ship (below) will depart on a maiden voyage from Leith, the port for Edinburgh, to the Faroe Islands and Iceland, on May 29. It has 76 cabins and suites accommodating 152 guests, along with an expedition lab, observation lounge and marine life library. A third ship with capacity for 208 guests in 96 cabins is also being built and will be delivered early next year. All three have been designed to minimise environmental impact and comply with emission standards, with a hybrid-ready propulsion system. The Swan Hellenic brand relaunched under new ownership in July 2020 with a focus on ‘cultural expedition cruising’ (swanhellenic.com).

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CRUISE NEWS

MOBILITY SCOOTER

GETS GOING

A new mobility scooter has launched in the UK market, designed for use on cruise ships. The TravelScoot Escape is made from aircraft-grade aluminium and is said to be the world’s lightest mobility scooter, weighing just 14.8kg. It is approved for air travel, fits between the cabin doors of cruise ships and can be stowed in the boot of a small car. The scooter has a 20-mile range on a single charge and a top speed of 4.7mph. It is priced at £2,399 plus VAT (mytravelscoot.co.uk).

SILVERSEA GOES LONG IN LATIN AMERICA Silversea Cruises has introduced an epic 71-day Grand Voyage to Central and South America on its newest ship, Silver Nova. Guests will visit 38 destinations across 18 countries, departing on January 4, 2024. It will be the first in the range to include round-trip business-class flights in the fare, set to be rolled out across all Grand Voyage itineraries thereafter. The cruise will circumnavigate Latin America, before sailing along the Amazon River, making a maiden call in Ilhabela in Brazil, visiting Rio de Janeiro for a three-night stay during its world-famous Carnival, cruising the Chilean fjords and finishing in the eastern Caribbean. Silver Nova is due to launch in summer 2023 and will feature the line’s food-focused programme, Salt (silversea.com).

FRED OLSEN’S ADRIATIC AND ARCTIC ESCAPES Fred Olsen Cruise Lines has released details of sailings to the Arctic and Adriatic in a preview of its summer 2023 programme. Borealis is due to travel to Florence, Venice, Split and Kotor with a scenic trip along the Amalfi Coast as part of a 25-night journey departing in May 2023. The following month, flagship vessel Bolette will undertake a 23-night voyage to the Arctic so guests can experience the Midnight Sun and the fjords, glaciers and mountains across the region, calling in at small ports in Norway and Iceland. Martin Lister, head of itinerary planning and destination experience, said: “These sailings are perfect for those looking to excite their inner explorer and have been hand-crafted to allow our guests to really immerse themselves in the culture and history of the destinations they are visiting.” (fredolsencruises.com) 14

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PONANT’S

GREEN GUARANTEE Ponant has set out a series of environmental pledges during a One Ocean Summit held in association with the EU and United Nations. Chief executive Hervé Gastinel said: “We are proud to be invited to present the corporate actions taken to minimise the ecological footprint of our ships. We have ambitious objectives and are pursuing our actions with determination to protect the ocean and the polar ecosystems. We also want to inspire other players to get involved.” The commitments include eliminating single-use plastics aboard and ashore, increasing recycling and reuse, cutting nitrogen oxide emissions, reducing CO2 output by 30% by 2030 and inviting

VIKING CHARTS A COURSE TO ALL SEVEN CONTINENTS

scientific research teams onboard polar ship Le Commandant Charcot. Reservations are now open for the ship’s summer

Viking’s first expedition ship has begun its maiden Antarctica season, bringing the line to all seven continents in its 25th anniversary year. Viking Octantis remains in Antarctica until its christening in New York City in April, to be followed by voyages in the Great Lakes region. Norwegian explorer Liv Arnesen, the first woman to ski solo to the South Pole in 1994, will act as godmother. Viking chairman Torstein Hagen said: “Antarctica has always inspired the most intrepid explorers. With Viking Octantis, we are offering our guests the opportunity to explore this unique part of the world in comfort and in the most responsible way possible.” Octantis is one of several ships set to join the fleet this year, including expedition ship Viking Polaris, two ocean ships, more Viking Longships in Europe and purpose-built vessels for the Nile, Mekong and Mississippi (vikingcruises.co.uk).

2023 sailings, with 10 Arctic departures including five new or revised itineraries (uk.ponant.com).

PHOTO: ISTOCK; MICHAEL AUSTEN; ALISCIA YOUNG; PONANT/OLIVIER BLAUD

NCL OFFERS FIRST LOOK AT VIVA Norwegian Cruise Line has released the first images of new ship Norwegian Viva, which will be based in the Mediterranean when it launches in June 2023. It will be the second in its class following the launch of Norwegian Prima this year. The ship is due to homeport in Lisbon, Venice (Trieste), Rome (Civitavecchia) and Athens CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

(Piraeus), before transferring to Puerto Rico for winter 2023/24. Norwegian Viva will hold 3,219 guests in the fleet’s biggest inside, ocean-view and balcony staterooms. It will also feature exclusive area The Haven by Norwegian, with space for 107 suites, a sun deck, infinity pool overlooking the ship’s wake and outdoor spa with glass-walled sauna (ncl.com). M A RCH /A PR IL 2022 |

PRINCESS CRUISES SCALES UP MEDALLION

RESEARCH BY UK SPECIALIST REVEALS INCREASING CONFIDENCE IN CRUISE Nearly three-quarters of regular cruise travellers have booked a sailing, with half due to travel in the next six months, according to research by a UK cruise specialist. The survey of 1,200 customers by travel agency cruise.co.uk found that of those who took a cruise in 2021, 73% had already committed to another sailing this year. Of those, 49% were due to travel in the next six months and 13% in the next three months. It also revealed a jump in ex-UK cruises, accounting for 61% of bookings, compared with 50% in the same period two years ago. Deputy managing director Tony Andrews said: “We are very encouraged by these figures, which clearly demonstrate the majority of cruise passengers are keen to get back on the water. “The success of last year’s round-Britain season means we are seeing demand from seasoned cruisers as well as guests who sailed for the first time. As testing restrictions are increasingly lifted, we’re confident holidaymakers will continue to choose cruise.” (cruise.co.uk)

Princess Cruises has extended its Ocean Medallion technology to cover purchases in ports of call. Guests can use the Ocean Medallion – wearable technology that doubles as a room key and payment system – in participating shops, bars, restaurants and excursion operators, and earn 7% of the value in onboard credit or future cruise credit. The MedallionPay scheme is available in 65 retailers in Saint Thomas, Cabo San Lucas, Cozumel and Puerto Vallarta, and will soon be rolled out in Alaska. John Padgett, president of Princess Cruises, said: “Guests can shop, play, eat, drink and purchase almost anything in our ports of call in the Caribbean, Mexican Riviera – and soon, Alaska – and get 7% instant onboard credit. It adds value and breaks down the historic institutional divide between ship and shore.” (princess.com)

DISNEY DEBUTS PIXAR DAY AT SEA Disney Cruise Line guests can meet characters from Toy Story, Monsters Inc, Finding Nemo and The Incredibles (left) on a new Pixar Day at Sea. Available on selected sailings of Disney Fantasy in early 2023, the day-long event will include themed dining, encounters with 16

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Pixar characters, dance parties, a theatrical musical as well as a deck party. Pixar Day at Sea will be included on nine select Disney Fantasy cruises from January to March 2023, departing from Port Canaveral, Florida to the Caribbean (disneycruise.com). CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

CRUISE NEWS

CUNARD

BRINGS THE BARD ON BOARD Cunard is taking Shakespeare to the high seas in 2022 as it partners with the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC) to bring worldclass theatre to its transatlantic stage. Exclusive to Queen Mary 2, guests can enjoy tailored RSC theatrical performances, including a blend of Shakespeare’s iconic love scenes in new work Boundless as the Sea. They can also watch acclaimed RSC plays, meet the cast and join Shakespeare Tales, informal events where actors perform their favourite speeches and answer questions. The events run from May 29 to August 12 and September 15 to November 13 (cunard.com).

CROISIEUROPE

RELEASES 2023 PROGRAMME CroisiEurope has put its worldwide programme of 2023 river, canal and ocean itineraries on sale, with 15% off until August. The new range features 170 itineraries on 55 ships, sailing on 39 waterways in 37 countries. New options include a hotel barge cruise from the Petite Seine to the Yonne on board Deborah. The seven-day cruise starts in Paris, taking guests to ports of call featuring splendid gardens, historical sites and excellent cuisine, with twice-monthly departures from April to October. The line is also offering an early booking discount on all 2023 itineraries (excluding the Volga, Nile and Ganges) of 15% if booked by August 31, 10% if booked between September 1 and October 15, and 5% for bookings from October 16 to November 30. In addition to this, CroisiEurope has waived the single supplement on all river, ocean and French canal departures between March 1 and April 30 (croisieurope.co.uk).

EMERALD CRUISES

PICYURES: CHRISTOPHER ISON; MARK KATZMAN; TOPHER MCGRILLIS; BILL MALONEY; STEFAN SCHLUMPF

ADDS GLACIER EXPRESS Emerald Cruises has released its 2023 programme, which includes a new Danube cruise and city stays in Copenhagen, Munich, Seville and Zurich. The river cruise line has added an 11-day The Great Danube itinerary, from Passau to Belgrade. Excursions include a hike to a vineyard followed by a wine tasting in Weissenkirchen, and a guided bike ride in the Wachau Valley. There are also more options to extend a river cruise holiday with a city stay in Copenhagen, Munich (including departures timed to coincide with Oktoberfest) or Seville. Guests on the Jewels of the Rhine itinerary can also tag on a three-night package exploring Zermatt and Zurich with a journey on the scenic Glacier Express train (right) (emeraldcruises.co.uk). CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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CRUISE STYLE BLOW AND BEHOLD Don’t let a sun deck stroll send your cruise ‘do into disarray. If you like being on deck on breezy sea days or after-dinner drinks under the stars, this travel-size Fudge Professional Skyscraper hairspray will control frizz and flyaways with a lightweight, weather-proof finish (£5.50, in hair salons nationwide or at uk.fudgeprofessional.com).

Bright ideas Add some muchneeded pizzazz to your life with this one-piece from the spring/summer 2022 collection from swimwear brand Gottex. With a hand-drawn design and eye-catching colour palette, you’ll be in holiday mood the moment you put it on (£160, simplybeach.com).

BEST FOOT FIRST Perfect for strutting your stuff in floaty beachwear or strolling around town on a sightseeing tour, these new Havaianas You Malta Mix sandals are versatile enough to work with any holiday outfit. They come in a host of vibrant shades combining comfort and colour (£34, havaianas.com).

SHOPPING

REFRESH YOUR TRAVEL WARDROBE FOR SPRING AND SUMMER WITH OUR PICK OF THIS SEASON’S MUST-HAVES STAY IN CHARGE There’s no need to worry about running out of juice – or charging ports – with this multi-purpose cable that comes with USB-A, USB-C, micro USB and lightning connections. It’s easily stored and has a velvet pouch so it won’t get tangled in your hand luggage (£24.99, atomstudios.com).

BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY Make packing a cinch with the new Rhapsody collection, the first female-focused range from Briggs & Riley. Available in plum, navy and black, each piece features pockets, padded compartments, an Outsider handle for wrinkle-free flat packing and a lifetime guarantee (from £89, briggs-riley.co.uk).

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PICTURE: ARI CUSTODIO

SLEEP EASY Banish jet lag with these all-natural products from Jet Candy, said to ease the stress of travel. They range from a homeopathic remedy to boost circulation and hydration, to a rose and lavender essential oil and a five-flower essence to help you unwind (£8.50-£22, jet-candy.com).

H E A LT H & W E L L B E I N G

CRUISE WELL THE LATEST HEALTH AND WELLBEING NEWS FROM AROUND THE CRUISE WORLD

Super foodies

Healthy-eating restaurant Aquamar Kitchen is among the dining options to be introduced by Oceania Cruises on new ship Vista when it launches in early 2023. Breakfast options revealed so far include cold-pressed raw juices and super-food smoothies, homemade granola, organic power bowls and savoury breakfast wraps. The lunch menu will offer items such as slow-roasted organic salmon with quinoa tabbouleh and lemon tahini or yellowfin tacos with white cabbage slaw. It will be one of 12 dining venues for the culinary-focused line, also including American-inspired classics at Ember, steak and seafood at Polo Grill, Tuscan cuisine at Toscana and pan-Asian dishes at Red Ginger (oceaniacruises.com).

Indulge in Otium

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK/THEVEREST

A spa where you can eat chocolate and sip champagne? Sign us up! Yes, you read that correctly – the new Otium spa from Silversea Cruises is all about prioritising indulgence and positivity over sweat and sacrifice. Inspired by the Romans, you can expect spa treatments using honey or Argan oil – plus a glass of champers with your mani-pedi – and quiet spots to relax. The concept also extends to your suite, where tailor-made mattresses, 400-thread count Egyptian cotton sheets and a pillow menu offer a peaceful night’s sleep, along with scented bath salts, natural loofahs, spa amenities and a sea-inspired cocktail list to enjoy on your veranda. It will be available on Silver Dawn, due to set sail in spring, and new ship Silver Nova, launching in summer 2023 (silversea.com).

FUN IN THE SUN

SO SCENTED

You might be feeling sun-starved and desperate to jet away this summer, but it’s crucial to shield your skin from the harmful effects of the sun. Monat’s new Sun Veil mineral-based sunscreen offers SPF30 and UVA/UVB protection and can be used daily before you apply your make up. It’s sweat and waterresistant, suitable for all skin types and coral-reef friendly so marine life will be protected (£38, monatglobal.com/uk).

Hand sanitiser is a must any time you travel, but if you hate the smell, try this lightly scented Pure & Clean hand gel from So..? Its 60% ethanol formulation will protect you against bacteria, plus it’s vegan-friendly and available in a handy 50ml travel size (£1.49, Superdrug).

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A taste of the

Caribbean

Shivi Ramoutar is the queen of contemporary Caribbean cooking and will be bringing her vibrant recipes to P&O Cruises’ new ship, Arvia, this year. She shares a few of her favourite dishes for spring 20

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RECIPES

Tip

To freeze, leave the cashew nuts out of the recipe and allow the rice to cool, then portion up

CURRY CHICKEN SERVES 4 “Wherever I am in the world, when I eat Caribbean food it takes me back to a specific memory. This curry chicken recipe evokes memories of lovely Sundays in Trinidad, of being with my family and enjoying great, warm, plentiful food. I always want to make this when I need a little reassurance; it gives me that feeling of comfort. The recipe can be adapted, depending on what you have around the house, so it’s always a little loose. Tweak it to find your own style.” INGREDIENTS 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, roughly chopped 3 cloves garlic, grated 2 tbsp chopped coriander 2 tbsp curry powder 1 tbsp ground cumin 8-12 boneless, skinless chicken thighs 250ml chicken stock

made with 1 stock cube 1 x 400g tin chickpeas, drained 1 large potato, skin on, in bite-sized cubes Scotch bonnet pepper sauce or hot sauce, for drizzling 4 wraps, or rice cooked as per instructions

PINEAPPLE FRIED COCONUT RICE SERVES 8

“Could this sound any more tropical? I love food that is as colourful as a rainbow and full of textures and flavours. While it is a wonderful meal in its own right, it is also a brilliant addition to grilled meats and fish. This recipe makes enough for four portions now, and four to freeze for later, but you can halve the quantities if you’d rather not batch cook. A midweek magic meal!”

METHOD

PICTURES: ALUN CALLENDER; ANDREW BURTON

l To

make the curry, heat the oil on a medium heat and soften the onion for about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and the spices and cook until the aroma hits you, stirring regularly. l Add the chicken, brown, then add the stock, chickpeas and potato. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer, adding a splash of water if the mixture becomes too dry. The curry should be thick and not too liquid. Cook until the chicken is cooked through and the potato is soft, about 25 minutes. Season to taste. l Pop the curry into a bowl and serve with rice, or serve it like street food and wrap in roti or wraps like a burrito, with splashes of hot sauce.

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INGREDIENTS 600g long-grain rice 4 large glugs of vegetable oil 2 large garlic cloves, smashed 1 tsp ground allspice 4 sprigs of thyme 2 x 400ml tins of coconut milk 8 spring onions, thinly sliced 2 small chillies, finely chopped

2 x 325g tins sweetcorn, drained (or use 500g frozen) 2 x 220g tins pineapple chunks, drained 6 tbsp finely chopped coriander A couple of large handfuls of unsalted cashew nuts, chopped

METHOD l Rinse

the rice in a sieve under cold running water. Heat a glug of oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and add one clove of garlic, two sprigs of thyme, the allspice and drained rice. Stir well to coat the rice. l Add 400ml water and bring to boil, then add the coconut milk, reduce and simmer until the rice is cooked – 15-20 minutes. l Carefully remove the garlic clove and thyme and set aside. Heat another large glug of oil in a large frying pan or wok over a high heat, then fry the remaining garlic clove, thyme, spring onions and chillies, stirring until the aromas hit you, for 30 seconds or so. l Add the sweetcorn, pineapple and coriander and continue to fry for another five minutes (you may need a few minutes extra if using frozen sweetcorn), stirring continuously. l Finally, add in the rice, give it a stir to mix well and season with salt and pepper. Set aside half to freeze for later and add the cashew nuts into the other half, frying for another minute or so, and serve. 8 M A RCH /A PR IL 2022 |

RECIPES

Tip

FROZEN YOGHURT BARK

Swap the berries for mango and kiwi, or swap the cinnamon and vanilla for cardamom

SERVES 8

“This makes a refreshing alternative to the usual iced treats on warm days but it is also quite a lovely touch at dinner parties – it will be passed around until totally devoured, I assure you. I find it therapeutic to make; there’s nothing more satisfying than studding fruit and nuts into a smooth lake of thick yoghurt. Make it as decadent or as wholesome as you like – try adding toffee pieces or swirls of salted caramel.” INGREDIENTS 2 x 600g tubs Greek yoghurt 6 tbsp honey 2 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp vanilla extract 2 large handfuls of desiccated coconut 2 large handfuls of frozen (or fresh) berries

2 large handfuls of dark chocolate chips (or roughly chopped dark chocolate bar) 2 large handfuls of chopped nuts (pecans, walnuts or hazelnuts are my favourite)

METHOD

everything together, except for the chocolate, berries and nuts. l Line a baking tray with baking parchment. Spread the yoghurt mix onto the paper, to a thickness of about 1cm. Stud with the chocolate, berries and nuts. l To freeze, cover the baking tray with foil and put into the freezer until firm, about 4-6 hours. Break into shards and store in a labelled resealable freezer bag. l To serve, place the shards in the fridge to defrost and soften for a couple of minutes before serving; but not too long – if left out of the freezer for more than 10 minutes, the bark will melt.

PICTURE: ANDREW BURTON

l Mix

LOCAL FOOD HEROES

Shivi Ramoutar grew up in Trinidad before moving to New York, Leicestershire and London, and has gone on to publish two cookbooks and appear as resident chef on ITV’s Martin & Roman’s Weekend Best. She is working with P&O Cruises as one of its Local Food Heroes on new

ship Arvia, which launches in December, and will celebrate her passion for Caribbean cuisine with an exclusive collection of dishes at Taste 360 and The Beach House. Shivi said: “I’m so excited to share my food with Arvia’s guests. It’s my interpretation of the Caribbean dishes that have

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influenced my life, with British elements thrown in too. I hope to make the experience as much about limin’ – the Caribbean art of relaxing with friends – as it is about the food.” Recipes and images appear courtesy of The Ice Kitchen, published by HarperCollins and available in shops now at £16.99.

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S P O N S O R E D F E AT U R E

DISCOVER EUROPE by sea with NCL Get 35% off cruises and fly-cruises when you book with NCL

ith Norwegian Cruise Line, you’ll unpack once and wake up to a new destination nearly every day. Go from breathtaking vistas in Mykonos to a steam with a scene in the Mandara Spa on board, from touring Tuscan vineyards to treating your taste buds at our speciality restaurants. Whether you wish to get away for a week or be immersed in a longer holiday, NCL’s wide variety of destination-rich itineraries offers something for everyone, plus enjoy 35% off all cruises and fly-cruises*. Sail away on your dream cruise to Norway or spend 10 days island-hopping

in the sun-drenched Greek isles. From the Mediterranean and northern Europe to Iceland and our new destination of Greenland, the possibilities are as endless as the experiences awaiting you at sea with NCL. There’s never been a better time to book the holiday of your dreams. To book, call 0333 336 1594, visit ncl.com or contact your travel agent

FEATURED JOURNEYS Mediterranean: Italy, France & Spain from Barcelona Norwegian Epic

7 days, Apr-Sep 2022 & May-Oct 2023 Explore Napoleon’s birthplace in Corsica, enjoy authentic pizza in Naples or gelato on Rome’s Spanish Steps, then return via the French Riviera. Inside from £545pp, Balcony from £769pp, departing Apr 17, 2022.

Greek Isles: Santorini, Mykonos & Croatia from Venice (Trieste) Norwegian Gem

TOP REASONS TO BOOK WITH NCL

PICTURES: JIM HUGHES; RICK DIAZ

n Book today and save 35% on all sailings, including fly-cruise packages n Add Free at Sea from £99pp and receive packages including Open Bar and Speciality Dining

n Choose from 11 ships and 15 departure points, including new ships Norwegian Prima and Norwegian Viva n Book a fly-cruise from your local airport for added peace of mind – includes

transfers and luggage allowance n Discover award-winning entertainment and hit Broadway shows such as Million Dollar Quartet and Burn the Floor

*New qualifying bookings made for any open for sale 3+ night sailings made in applicable booking window (see full terms available at ncl.com), individual FIT reservations and newly created qualifying groups (delegates with names) for all stateroom categories (club balcony and below for reduced deposit). Cannot be held as a new or existing traditional or group block (except 35% discount). Not applicable to affinity / FS group types (except 35% discount). Free at Sea upgrade charge depends on cruise length; £99pp for cruises of 7-9 days. 3rd and 4th guest pay taxes only, available on select sailings, and only valid where 1st and 2nd guests on booking pay full fare. 35% cruise and fly-cruise discount apply to total cruise-only fare and flight cost of all guests subject to exceptions below. All offers: limits, conditions, restrictions and exclusions apply. Offers not applicable to charter or inaugural sailings. Single occupants paying 200% of voyage fare qualify. Government taxes, port expenses & fees, general excise tax (GET), discretionary onboard service charges and gratuities additional. Offers non-transferable, non-refundable, have no monetary value and cannot be substituted or customised. Offers and combinability subject to availability, capacity and change or withdrawal at any time. Some sailings may be capacity controlled and may be closed at any time. Full terms and booking conditions available at ncl.com. NCL (Bahamas) Ltd, UK Office, Mountbatten House, Grosvenor Square, Southampton, SO15 2JU. ©2022 NCL Corporation Ltd.

7 days, May-Oct 2022 & May-Nov 2023 Set off to Kotor in Montenegro, before skimming the waves of the Aegean to Corfu, Santorini and Mykonos, with a final call in Dubrovnik. Inside from £749pp, Balcony from £1,405, departing Oct 30, 2022.

Baltic: Germany, Russia, Sweden & Finland from Copenhagen Norwegian Getaway

9 days, May-Aug 2022, 2023 & 2024 The treasures of northern Europe await on this cruise, with Copenhagen, Berlin, Tallinn, St Petersburg, Helsinki and Stockholm on the agenda. Inside from £739, Balcony from £1,175pp, departing May 18, 2022.

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NEW SHIPS

PICTURES: MICHEL VERDURE; IVAN SARFATTI

Get the lowdown on the latest launches as our writers step on board MSC Seashore and Holland America Line’s Rotterdam

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PICTURES: IVAN SARFATTI; CONRAD SCHUTT

NEW SHIPS

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NEW SHIPS Clockwise, from far left: The towering, four-deck-high LED screen; the adult-only bar area and infinity pool at the vessel’s aft; Ocean Cay restaurant; MSC Seashore at the

line’s private island retreat, Ocean Cay; Balcony cabin decorated with restful and muted tones; the Butcher’s Cut steakhouse offers an al fresco dining area

MSC SEASHORE MSC Cruises’ latest ﬂagship takes its inspiration from the Big Apple and proves bigger really is better, ﬁnds Jeannine Williamson

hen you step aboard a ship and come face to face with a 13-foot-high replica of the Statue of Liberty, neon-bright Times Squarestyle billboards and a four-deck-high LED screen with projections of the Manhattan skyline, you know you’re on a vessel that’s out to make a statement. And MSC Seashore certainly does that.

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MSC Cruises’ new flagship is as big and bold as New York itself, with wow-factor features at every turn, including Danza del Mare (Dance of the Seas), a mesmerising spiral art installation with 190 shimmering glass fish that ‘swim’ up four decks. The vessel is the 19th and largest in MSC’s expanding and evolving fleet and was the first-ever ship to be christened  M A RCH /A PR IL 2022 |

Clockwise from above: Asian-style restaurant Kaito Teppanyaki; Mexican Hola Tacos & Cantina; Pirates Cove Aquapark; MSC Seashore’s maiden call at Miami

at the cruise line’s private island, the Ocean Cay MSC Marine Reserve in the Bahamas. The first MSC Evo-class ship, it’s built on the blueprint of the two Seaside-class ships, MSC Seaside and Seaview, which were designed to sail in sunny climes and bring passengers closer to the sea with large outdoor promenades for eating, drinking and lounging. On Seashore, 65% of the public spaces have been ‘reimagined’ with all-new features including an al fresco dining area outside MSC’s signature steakhouse Butcher’s Cut. Its six swimming pools include the swashbuckling new Pirates Cove for youngsters, while grown-up passengers can head to the adult-only bar area and infinity pool wrapped around the aft of the ship. This is a standout new spot, with loungers

partly immersed in the shallow waters at the edge of the pool. Moving inside, the sweep of MSC’s trademark Swarovski crystal-studded staircases lead to new spaces. The five speciality restaurants are conveniently

dining rooms called Central Park, Manhattan, Tribeca and 5th Avenue. All in all, there are nearly 30 restaurants, lounges and bars. There are plenty of entertainment venues, too. Le Cabaret Rouge is an atmospheric French-inspired live music venue wrapped in dark red walls, while the Uptown lounge is a lively piano bar. Meanwhile, youngsters can let off steam at the largest children’s club in the MSC fleet, which has a fun space-themed area. Away from the dazzling public areas, Seashore’s 2,270 cabins, including 66 accessible rooms, are decorated in restful and muted tones including palettes of taupe, blue and green. There are 15 different stateroom categories to choose from and 11 of those come with balconies. More than 30 swanky suites have their own hot tubs on the veranda.

THE VESSEL IS THE LARGEST IN MSC’S EXPANDING FLEET AND THE FIRST-EVER SHIP TO BE CHRISTENED AT THE LINE’S PRIVATE ISLAND, OCEAN CAY

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situated in the redesigned Chef’s Court: Butcher’s Cut; the theatrical Kaito Teppanyaki; Mexican Hola Tacos & Cantina; Kaito Sushi Bar, with a new conveyor belt of rotating dishes; and the new Ocean Cay seafood restaurant. Elsewhere, the New York vibe extends to the main

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PICTURES: IVAN SARFATTI; MICHEL VERDURE;

NEW SHIPS

On a ship full of superlatives and bigger-than-before features, the largest cabins – a pair of owner’s suites – can be found in the exclusive MSC Yacht Club, also the largest in the fleet. The ship-within-a-ship enclave, occupying the front upper decks of Seashore, has its own panoramic lounge, dining room and pool deck, and guests are pampered with 24-hour butler service. The 5,632-passenger Seashore sails on round-trip cruises from Miami to the eastern and western Caribbean, with destinations including the Bahamas, Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic, Mexico and Jamaica. All cruises feature a day or overnight stay at Ocean Cay, the island where Seashore was named by Hollywood actress Sophia Loren. Quite a few lines have private playgrounds in the Bahamas, but again MSC breaks the mould with the 95-acre Ocean Cay, 65 miles off the Miami coastline. Rather than buy a CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

‘ready-made’ island, in 2015 MSC took on an abandoned sand mine covered with scrap metal and a surrounding sea bed littered with harmful debris. An ambitious £134 million regeneration project has seen corals brought back to life and the island transformed into an eco-friendly chill-out spot for passengers, which spearheads the line’s commitment to protecting the marine environment. Activities are low-key and sustainable, such as climbing up to the top of the lighthouse, kayaking, snorkelling or simply lazing on loungers and bean bags on the beach. At night there’s a lively and colourful Bahamian Junkanoo parade. Latest developments include a marine research centre, which is being built on the island as a base for visiting scientists and to let passengers learn about conservation work. MSC has certainly made a splash with its island hideaway and forward-

thinking flagship, whose technology reduces emissions and saves energy. Seashore paves the way not only for the next in class, MSC Seascape, but also for the line’s next trailblazing vessel, MSC World Europa. Launching this December, it will be MSC’s first ship powered by the cleanest marine fuel liquefied natural gas (LNG). Watch this space.

GETTING THERE A seven-night sailing on MSC Seashore, departing on July 9, and sailing round-trip from Miami to the Caribbean, starts from £799 per person cruise-only. For details visit msccruises.co.uk

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NEW SHIPS

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NEW SHIPS

ROTTERDAM Art and music are everywhere on Holland America Line’s classy new ship, soon to be christened by Dutch royalty, writes Jane Archer

he first thing that catches your eye as you board Rotterdam is Harps, a stunning stainless steel sculpture that rises up through three decks in the ship’s atrium. It’s a fitting welcome onto a vessel dedicated to art and music. In all, there are more than 2,500 original pieces of art on board, much of it musicthemed. Collectively it’s worth an eye-watering $4.1 million (Harps alone cost $620,000), so no wonder the ship is touted as a floating art museum. The seventh ship to bear the name Rotterdam in Holland America Line’s 150-year history, it launched in October 2021 and come May will be the second Rotterdam christened by Princess Margriet of the Netherlands. It’s also the biggest, hosting 2,668 passengers. If you get lost, take your bearings from the stairwell art. It’s architecturethemed forward, music-themed mid-ship and wildlife-themed at the aft. The Music Walk is the ship’s entertainment hub. There are live bands in the Rock Room and BB King’s Blues Club, duelling pianists playing hits in Billboard Onboard and classical quartets supplied by New York’s Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts. At least once a

cruise, highlights from BBC Earth’s natural history programmes are shown on a wall of LED screens in the theatre to music composed specially for HAL. Dining on Rotterdam is as eclectic as the music scene. I love Sel de Mer’s

Explorations Central, where interactive tables have information on ports and navigation. Cabins run the gamut of insides with no window up to the exclusive Pinnacle Suite, which has separate dining and living spaces, a veranda with whirlpool and private concierge. Spa cabins and suites have fridges with healthy snacks and are clustered around the spa, which means residents don’t have far to walk for their daily pampering. To massages and facials add a thermal suite with sauna and steam rooms, a whirlpool and bucket of cold water that brave souls can tip all over themselves.

PICTURES: MICHEL VERDURE

WITH 2,500 PIECES OF ART ON BOARD, THE SHIP IS TOUTED AS A FLOATING ART MUSEUM

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authentic French feel and food, but Tamarind’s Asian dishes are a close second. Pinnacle Grill has steaks (a whopping 18oz rib eye if you dare) while Canaletto serves Italian classics. These venues cost extra. For no charge, there’s the dining room or self-service, but those in Pinnacle or Neptune suites, or who buy into a Club Orange package of perks, can dine in the intimate new Club Orange. The all-weather Lido, with floorto-ceiling glass walls and a retractable roof, is a great hangout. Enjoy burgers, pizzas and the pool by day, and movies and popcorn after dark. You can’t go far without coming across a bar, but for something different try a cocktail themed around Holland America Line’s history at the new Half Moon or combine drinks with learning at the Crow’s Nest in

From top left: The main dining room; Rotterdam is the seventh HAL ship to bear that name; the art on board is collectively worth $4.1 million; Verandah Stateroom balcony and interior

GETTING THERE A seven-night Naming Celebration cruise to Norway round-trip from Amsterdam departing May 29 costs from £1,749 per person including flights, drinks, one free visit to a speciality dining restaurant and one shore excursion worth up to $100 per person. Find out more at hollandamerica.com

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CARIBBEAN

SUN, SEA and SAILS A beach a day is the perfect antidote to winter blues, ﬁnds Jane Archer on a small-ship cruise in the Caribbean

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Clockwise, from left: Royal Clipper and Star Clipper sail the Caribbean; Friar’s Bay, St Kitts; on the lookout for marine life

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“I

’m gonna repeat that,” Patricia shouts down the mic. “Rum punches and pina coladas are free.” A cheer goes up. After all, potent libations are just what you need at 9.30 in the morning when you’re about to rock and roll along a narrow-gauge track on the only train in the West Indies. I’m in St Kitts on a railway carriage that was brought here from Seattle in 1926 to carry sugar cane from the fields to the factory for processing. It’s set to take two hours to cover just 18 miles of track. “We go at camera speed,” Patricia laughs as the train jolts back and forth, and finally rumbles off, swaying alarmingly from side to side as it balances on a track that’s just 30 inches wide. Sugar was the main industry on St Kitts from the 1600s until 2005, when the island decided it was no longer financially viable and the train was remodelled for tourists, with an open-air top deck. The farmers’ loss is our gain. We trundle past abandoned sugar fields and over worryingly thin bridges, always keeping a sea view throughout the journey. It’s a delightful way to spend the morning, and certainly very different. That’s very fitting given I am escaping the winter blues

R O YA L C L I P P E R I S A V I S I O N OF TEAK AND BRASS WITH

on a sun-filled voyage around the Caribbean on Royal Clipper, a cruise ship with different in its DNA. Modelled on Preussen, a full-rigged tall ship built at the turn of the last century, it’s a vision of teak and brass, has five masts, 42 sails – and really does sail. As we set off from Bridgetown, capital of the new Republic of Barbados, the haunting strains of 1492 Conquest of Paradise by Vangelis fill the air as the sailors hoist the canvas. Magical doesn’t do it justice. The music becomes our theme tune for the week as we set sail each evening for another island. Saint Lucia, Dominica, Antigua, St Kitts and Barbuda – we’re visiting them all and still have time for a sea day. Royal Clipper is the largest of three sailing ships owned by the cruise line Star Clippers, but with room for just 227 passengers, the ship is still very small. Even better, there are just 129 on our cruise (blame Covid). Most of them are Brits, spanning everything from an activity-loving honeymoon couple who have never cruised before to adventurous septuagenarians who have, but there are a lot of Germans and a handful of Americans as well – it’s like being on our own private yacht. And as it is yachting rather than cruising, don’t be surprised if your legs take a day getting used to the motion. 8 Clockwise, from top left: View of the peninsula from Timothy Hill, St Kitts; taking in the view from the deck; Rodney Bay, Saint Lucia; Royal Clipper in full sail on the open seas; quality dining on board; kayaking on calm waters in St Kitts 34

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PICTURES: SHUTERSTOCK/UMOMOS; ESTHER QUELLE PHOTOGRAPHY

FIVE MASTS AND 42 SAILS

CARIBBEAN

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CARIBBEAN

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We’re in cabin 209, which is much like every other room on the ship – small, en suite and with portholes (there are some inside cabins and a handful of suites with balconies for those who want to splash out). It feels in keeping with the sailing ethos, as does the entertainment. In place of lavish shows, we tie knots and stargaze with the officers and learn about pirates (not the rollicking Captain Jack variety, but guys armed with AK-47s looking for a ship to hold to ransom). My lack of a head for heights means I chicken out of climbing the mast, but hubbie Mark has no qualms. He harnesses up, shins the rope ladder 20 metres to the main top and returns raving about the great view from on high. In a nod to the pandemic, Star Clippers has halted open-seating dining, instead allocating everyone a table for breakfast, lunch and dinner for the duration of the cruise, and put the bridge off-limits to passengers. Hopefully things will revert once Covid restrictions are eased, because meeting new people over dinner and talking navigation with the officers are important parts of the Star Clippers experience. Having to wear masks indoors is less of an issue as we just hang out among the ropes and pulleys on the top deck

R O YA L C L I P P E R A N C H O R S I N B AY S A N D B E A C H E S

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/DAVE PRIMOV/DEREK D. GALON

A W AY F R O M T H E C R O W D S or at the bar, which happily is outdoors. Drinks are not included in the fare; likewise tours, tips and Wi-Fi. It’s noon on the first full day of the cruise as we sail into Saint Lucia – not the port at Castries where the big ships go, but an anchorage in Rodney Bay, from where we tender ashore to the beach. The sand is soft, the water inviting, and the rainforest to one side with hilly Pigeon Island on the other look gorgeous under the blue skies. “Is that really a cruise ship?” a British couple ask. They have spotted Royal Clipper out in the bay and are so enthralled by the idea of a sailing that I reckon they’ll book for next year. Saint Lucia sets the pattern for the week. We might be going to well-known islands, but Royal Clipper always stays at anchor in bays and beaches away from the crowds while we go ashore in a tender that doubles as a landing craft when we’re disembarking onto sand. In Dominica, we anchor off Portsmouth, a small town in the north of the island. The sensible people are going on river boat tours but we’re off river-tubing – an activity that entails sitting in a big rubber ring, swirling uncontrollably down rapids and getting very wet. Curwen, the guy in charge, explains the dos and don’ts before we set off – which essentially boil down to not falling out – and then we are on our way. 8 Clockwise, from top left: Christophe Harbour and and the southeast peninsula, St Kitts; beach fun at Friar’s Bay; enjoying the wam glow of the Caribbean sun; exploring the Indian River, Portsmouth, Dominica; Syndicate Waterfalls, Dominica CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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Well, everyone else is. My ring makes a beeline for the bushes on the riverbank, from where Curwen has to rescue me. Ironically, given we’re in a rainforest, the Pagua River is low on water so there are no rapids, and progress is slow. However, even Mark, who usually objects to any activity that involves getting wet, admits it’s been great fun as we dry off at the end in the banana plantation that doubles as a changing room. In Antigua, we go ashore on Pigeon Point Beach in pretty Falmouth Harbour and wander over the hill to English Harbour, where the Royal Navy had a base in the 18th and 19th centuries. Naval enthusiasts head to Nelson’s Dockyard but we wheel back to the beach for a swim before a yummy lunchtime barbecue the crew has prepared. In Barbuda, an island devastated when Hurricane Irma swept through in 2017, we anchor off River Bay, a beach that cruise director Mino warns has no shade or facilities – but more than makes up for it by being very pretty. He’s almost right. An enterprising local has opened his beach bar, much to everyone’s delight, although I’m not sure which is the bigger attraction – the beer or the shade! There’s another Robinson Crusoe moment as we anchor off a deserted beach in Friar’s Bay in St Kitts. We thought

I’M NOT SURE WHICH IS T H E B I G G E R AT T R A C T I O N , THE BEER OR THE SHADE that was great but the best was yet to come. As we get ready to leave the bay, Mino says anyone who wants to see the ship in full sail should head to the tender. We don’t need telling twice. Taking the tender out so passengers can watch as all sails are hoisted is a classic Star Clippers moment and no one wants to miss it. The tender driver is brilliant, getting us in close and positioning us in just the right places, including one spot with the ship coming directly at us. Spectacular, but also a little scary. And just when we thought things couldn’t get any better, a pod of dolphins appears, leaping back and forth beside the tender in threes and fours, as if synchronised swimming. The driver switches off the engine and we just sit and watch their antics. Entertainment doesn’t get better than this.

PICTURE: SIMPLY ANTIGUA BARBUDA

GETTING THERE

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A seven-night Windward Islands Sailing round-trip from Barbados on Royal Clipper costs from £2,379 per person departing December 10, including flights and transfers, based on two sharing a category six cabin. The ship calls at Saint Lucia, Dominica, Antigua, St Kitts, Iles des Saintes and Martinique. Drinks and Wi-Fi cost extra; a tip equivalent to €8 per person per day is recommended for the crew. Contact your local travel agent or call 0845 200 6145 to book. Read more about Caribbean cruises online at cruise-international.com CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

CARIBBEAN

Clockwise, from top left: English Harbour, Antigua; Royal Clipper at sunset; a pod of playful dolphins

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WELLNESS

WELLNESS on the WAVES Rebecca Barnes gets her wellbeing fix on board the stylish ship Celebrity Apex

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PICTURES: CELEBRITY CRUISES/QUENTIN BACON

Opposite: The Persian Garden This page: Santorini

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WELLNESS

’m meditating alongside a large amethyst crystal and can almost feel the indulgences of the night before slipping away. The detoxing Crystalarium Energy Healing spa treatment on board Celebrity Apex is just one of the ship’s next-level wellness offerings – the element of earth is said to emanate a ‘luminous vibrancy’, while the natural crystal serves as the ‘conduit for healing energy’. If this sounds like your kind of sea day heaven, you’ll be happy to know there’s much more where that came from, partly in thanks to Celebrity Cruises’ partnership with wellness and lifestyle brand goop. In fact, the ‘goop cruise’ was trending for much of last year, not least because the brand’s founder, Gwyneth Paltrow, has been appointed Celebrity’s ‘wellbeing advisor’. Then there’s the line’s Women in Wellness programme, which features a panel of wellbeing gurus assigned to energise passengers with specially curated workouts and mindfulness sessions (on select sailings). They include Noella Gabriel, co-founder of Elemis; Katie Brauer, founder and chief executive of The Yoga Professional; Ruth Zukerman, co-founder of SoulCycle and Flywheel Sports; and Moran Mitchell, Olympian and F45 athlete, among other leaders in their fields. With so many of us suffering from Covid fatigue, it’s

a timely move. The impact of the pandemic has changed the way many of us prioritise our physical, mental and emotional health, and many cruise lines are investing in elevated spa and wellness facilities to meet this demand. Designed by Kelly Hoppen CBE, the palatial spa on Apex offers 120 treatments and therapies, along with a number of technological firsts in beauty and fitness at sea, including F45 classes and Peloton bikes overlooking the ocean. There’s even an aesthetics clinic offering injectables, fat freezing and radio frequency treatments. Exclusive to Edgeseries ships is the Sea Thermal Suite, which features eight tranquil spaces to enjoy some quiet time. While the curvy heated loungers are extremely tempting, I drink in the sea views while nestled in a swinging basket chair in the Float Zen Zone. As well as being the ideal spot for chilling pre or post-treatment or fitness class, it’s a great place to feel at one with the ocean. Afterwards, I head to the AquaSpa Cafe for a customblended goop chlorella smoothie. Designed by Paltrow and the aforementioned wellbeing advisors, it contains chlorella, berries, peaches and ginger and puts a spring in my step. You may also want to get your wellness fix on land. When sailing in the Mediterranean, there are a number of active excursions on offer, from kayaking along 8

Clockwise, from far left: Iconic Suite bedroom; pool deck; Villajoyosa, Alicante; Apex’s spa;

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/ZIGRES; MICHEL VERDURE

THE PANDEMIC HAS CHANGED THE WAY MANY OF US PRIORITISE OUR PHYSICAL AND MENTAL HEALTH

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WELLNESS Majorca’s west coast to a biking tour in Valencia and trekking through Catalonia’s rolling hills in Barcelona. If that’s a priority, pick a spring or autumn sailing to enjoy sunny days minus searing temperatures – almost perfect conditions for boosting your step count ashore. As the only cruise ship tendering in Santorini’s caldera one morning, there are fewer tourists around, so I enjoy getting lost in Fira’s undulating maze of cobbled streets before heading back down to the port. Sleep hygiene is taken seriously on board, so a refreshing night is all but guaranteed. On Apex, when you retire you’ll slip into luxurious eXhale bedding – exclusively designed for all staterooms using 300 thread count Egyptian cotton alongside a cashmere mattress, it’s said to bring nature’s elements and the latest technologies together for pure luxury and comfort. For a truly immersive wellness experience, the AquaClass staterooms offer unlimited access to the Sea Thermal Suite, in-room yoga mats, goop amenities, on-demand wellness classes on stateroom TVs, a pillow menu, spa concierge, spa credit and preferential spa rates. On new ship Celebrity Beyond, which launches this spring, AquaClass gets an upgrade: the all-new SkySuites combine the best of the AquaClass offerings with the luxury

amenities of The Retreat, the exclusive resort-within-aresort for suite guests. The following day I find myself back in the spa on a tilting table – the immersive zero gravity massage is said to produce a weightless feeling by tilting and changing into different positions. It’s actually incredibly comfortable, especially in the S-shape configuration that is almost like lying in a hammock. Teamed with a Himalayan salt stone to penetrate tense muscles, I lie on my front before flipping onto my back. When the bed tilts up and down it seems like you might slide off, but the floating feeling that washes over you is immensely relaxing. I don’t want it to stop. Post-massage, despite being as zen as a person could possibly be, I stand under the colourful rainfall water therapy showers – the drops and streams of water are said to wash away tension while refreshing, invigorating and massaging the body. It doesn’t end there, with even more in store for serious wellness devotees. Apex is the world’s only cruise ship offering the Iyashi Dôme Experience, rooted in the Japanese tradition of heating the body using far infrared light. The medical-looking dome device is not one for claustrophobics, but upon hearing that one session can burn up to 600 calories, I decide to give it a go.

SLEEP HYGIENE IS TAKEN SERIOUSLY ON BOARD, SO A REFRESHING NIGHT IS ALL BUT GUARANTEED

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Below: Eden restaurant Opposite, clockwise from top left: Fresh seafood at Raw on 5 restaurant; spa treatment room; Eden bar; Edge Villas on Celebrity Beyond; coastal views in Serra de Tramuntana, western Majorca; crystal healing; sensory shower; Celebrity Apex

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PICTURES: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/IMAGEBROKER; MICHEL VERDURE; CELEBRITY CRUISES

WELLNESS

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get exclusive access to clean cuisine restaurant Blu, offering inventive dishes and plant-based options including delicious Beyond Burgers and sustainable, biodynamic wines. The multi-level experiential Eden restaurant is perhaps the most exciting dining experience. In a nature-inspired setting, you can feast on dishes such as the bazaar bowl with chilled labneh yogurt, beets, cucumber, almond and homemade naan bread; cold-smoked yellow tomato veloute with green apple, basil and wasabi; and slow-cooked halibut with cracked wheat tabbouleh, piquillo, lemon emulsion and chive. We all know that holidays bestow you with multiple mental and physical health benefits, and Celebrity Cruises’ innovative 360-degree approach puts it way ahead of the competition in the wellness space. I step off the ship feeling calmer, happier and more serene. Along with the naturally restorative powers of the sea itself, it’s just the postpandemic tonic I was craving.

Clockwise, from top left: The Retreat sun deck on Celebrity Beyond; writer Rebecca tests the therapy shower; The Retreat, the ‘resort within a resort’, on Celebrity Apex; chilling out in the spa area

PICTURES: CELEBRITY CRUISES; MICHEL VERDURE; QUENTIN BACON; REBECCA BARNES

The 50-minute treatment works by making you sweat while you relax; this is said to aid the body’s detoxification process while releasing tension, kick-starting the metabolism, minimising jet lag and enhancing muscle recovery. While I don’t notice any drastic inch loss, I do feel very relaxed afterwards and ever so slightly slinkier in my outfit that evening. Outside the spa, 2,900-passenger Apex is one of the coolest, most exciting ships on the ocean, with many boundary-pushing spaces. Most of the staterooms are roomy Infinite Verandas, but I’m staying in a spacious Celebrity Suite that has a separate sitting area, plush Frette robes and slippers, premium bath amenities and a generously sized balcony with loungers. Along with exclusive access to suite-class restaurant Luminae, suite guests receive additional perks including premium drinks, personal butlers and access to The Retreat. This VIP sanctuary features a sun deck, cabanas, a bar, a pool with swing chairs and hot tub – it’s a tranquil place to relax, socialise or soak up the sun. Elsewhere on the ship, dining choices abound, and it’s easy to be virtuous if you wish: the Spa Cafe offers nourishing, spa-inspired dishes and creative takes on healthy cuisine, while light breakfasts and lunches can be taken in the globally inspired Oceanview cafe, which offers everything from fruit platters to salads and stir fries. Mediterranean fare is served up in main restaurant Cyprus; focusing on seafood, the menu features simple, fresh dishes inspired by the region. AquaClass guests also

GETTING THERE A four-day Short Caribbean Getaway cruise on Celebrity Apex costs from £759 per person, excluding flights. For more information speak to your travel agent or visit celebritycruises.com Read more cruise reviews online at cruise-international.com CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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NO-FLIGHT

Club

From ex-UK voyages to rail-and-sail packages, no-fly cruises are booming. Laura French picks out the best itineraries for anyone looking to skip airport queues this spring and summer

here’s something magical about casting off from UK shores, watching the British coast fade into the distance as you head off for an adventure on the high seas. Throw in the added bonuses of going flight-free – among them seamless travel, no airport queues and no need to feel the flush of flight-shaming – and it’s not hard to see why demand for ex-UK cruises is booming. And with an ever-greater number of cruise lines getting in on the trend, from the all-new Ambassador Cruise Line sailing from Tilbury in April to MSC Cruises extending MSC Virtuosa’s UK season, you aren’t short on choice. But no-fly cruises don’t only have to mean ex-UK. More and more operators are packaging up Eurostar or coach travel with continental river cruises, bringing the likes of the Seine, the Rhone, the Rhine and the Moselle to your fingertips without requiring a flight. So whether you’re looking to sail along the Seine, navigate the Norwegian fjords or cast off to Croatia, we’ve sought out some of the most enticing no-fly trips to get excited about for this spring and summer.

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PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/AKEGOOSEBERRY

An Icelandic сcape Spluttering geysers, smoking volcanoes, bubbling mud pools and crashing waterfalls – Iceland’s extraordinary topography has put it on the map for adventurers the world over, and there’s nothing quite like eyeing its majestic fjords and mountain-framed bays from the comfort of a cruise ship. Ambassador Cruise Line will be taking passengers around the island on a round-trip voyage from Southampton in June as part of its maiden season, exploring Reykjavik, Grundarfjordur, Isafjordur and Akureyri, with a stop in the Faroe Islands and Lerwick thrown in for good measure. The new line is marketing itself as ‘premium value’, with talks, entertainment and five restaurants on board the 1,400-guest vessel, Ambience. The 14-night Land of Ice and Fire voyage departs June 7 from Tilbury, with prices from £1,199 (ambassadorcruiseline.com). 

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Mediterranean moments Saga’s ship Spirit of Adventure – which debuted last summer – will be heading for Italy, Croatia and beyond in August on an epic 22-night voyage from Southampton, taking in Gibraltar, Valletta (right), Split, Ravenna, Venice, Zadar, Dubrovnik, Palermo and Cadiz. Excursions range from a dolphin-watching trip around Gibraltar’s bay to visiting the emerald-pooled Plitvice Lakes National Park, with plenty of time at sea to sample the amenities on the vessel – which include two speciality restaurants, a theatre and spa. It’s one of several ex-UK itineraries on Adventure, with other itineraries running from Dover and Tilbury. Saga’s 22-night Croatia and Cities of the Central Mediterranean cruise departs August 7 from Southampton, with prices from £5,999 (travel.saga.co.uk).

The Emerald Isle Closer to home, Ireland beckons with windswept cliffs, billowing hills and tucked-away towns, and Ramblers Walking Holidays has a cruise trip taking in the best of it. Cruising Emerald Ireland sandwiches scenic walks in between time on board a five-night Fred Olsen Cruise Lines departure on Borealis from Liverpool. You’ll sail to Cobh, travel by coach to Ballycotton cliffs, then on to Galway for a walk in Connemara National Park. The cruise ends in Belfast with a stroll along the Giant’s Causeway, as famous for its basalt columns as for tales of the giants said to have put them there. Ramblers’ five-night Cruising Emerald Ireland trip departs August 24 from Liverpool, with prices from £1,085 (cruiseandwalk.co.uk). For a no-fly return, Stena Line runs ferries from Belfast to Liverpool from £129 (stenaline.co.uk). 50

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New York, New York PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/ANTON ZELENOV; TOURISM IRELAND/CHRIS HILL PHOTOGRAPHIC

A no-fly cruise doesn’t have to mean staying in Europe; for a longer-haul getaway that’s all about the journey, Cunard’s 14-night Roundtrip Transatlantic Crossing from Southampton is an excellent option. Guests will sail to New York over six days, taking time to enjoy the entertainment on board the iconic Queen Mary 2 – from live musicians to West End-style productions, aerial performers to illusionists – before arriving in the Big Apple on day eight to explore the ‘city that never sleeps’. The following days are spent on the return leg across the Atlantic, with ample time to check out the facilities – which span a planetarium, cinema, kids’ play zone, theatre and more. Cunard’s 14-night Roundtrip Transatlantic Crossing departs from Southampton in April, May, July, August and October, with prices from £3,298 in April (cunard.com). 8

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Petit Paris

PICTURES: IVAN SARFATTI; MSC CRUISES/M. LADU SHUTTERSTOCK/ANELE NOVA

Dip your toe into cruise with this weekend mini-break on Anthem of the Seas, sailing from Southampton to Le Havre on a Friday, spending a sophisticated Saturday in Paris, then arriving home in time for work on Monday. It’s the perfect taster trip to find out if cruising is for you without the commitment of a longer break, plus you’ll get to explore one of Royal Caribbean’s most action-packed ships. Get 360-degree views from the North Star observation capsule, grab a surfboard and try your luck on the 40-foot-long FlowRider or feel the rush on the RipCord by iFly skydiving simulator. Alternatively, enjoy more sedate pleasures such as dining at Jamie’s Italian then settling in for an all-singing, all-dancing performance of We Will Rock You or Spectra’s Cabaret. Royal Caribbean’s Two-Night Weekend Getaway Cruise sailing from Southampton on May 13 starts from £405 for an Interior cabin or £451 for a Balcony (royalcaribbean.com).

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Atlantic island-hopping MSC Virtuosa has extended its UK season this year in response to soaring demand, with a selection of itineraries casting off from Southampton throughout spring and summer. Among the highlights is a 12-night itinerary pairing the Canaries with Madeira, stopping in Funchal, Gran Canaria, Tenerife and Lanzarote before throwing in a dose of Camino culture in Spain’s Santiago de Compostela. It’s not just about the destination, though; on board, guests can head to the aquapark, try out the Formula One simulator or sample the just-added MSC Starship Club – an immersive entertainment experience complete with 3D holograms, digital art and a robotic bartender that’s futuristic to the core. MSC Cruises’ 12-night Northern Europe cruise departs May 1 from Southampton, from £1,049 (msccruises.co.uk). 8

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Norman conquest For a river cruise that puts the emphasis on the experience, try Avalon Waterways’ nine-day Active & Discovery on the Seine itinerary, which sails from Paris to Normandy with three included excursions to choose from at each stop. Learn how to make an original Chantilly cream, see Monet’s Garden at Giverny (right), visit the landing beaches of Normandy or head out on a kayak tour. It’s all about immersion on this idyllic sailing via Vernon, Rouen, Caudebac and Le Havre, and why not tag on a few nights in Paris to top off your adventure with some capital culture to boot? Avalon’s eight-night Active & Discovery on the Seine departs from Paris in April, May, July and August, with prices from £1,743 (avalonwaterways.co.uk). Eurostar fares from London to Paris start at £35 each way (eurostar.com).

Wine on the Rhine

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/OLEG BAKHIREV/ FEEL GOOD STUDIO; MAHLOW MEDIA

If it’s more fairytale castles, vineyard visits and quaint country villages that spark your interest, look to Great Rail Journeys’ Magic of the Moselle and Rhine river cruise, which combines Eurostar travel from St Pancras with a sixnight cruise on Amadeus Brilliant. You’ll get the chance to sample the wines of the Moselle, sip a Rüdesheimer kaffee (a creamy, brandy-infused coffee concoction) and wander the Roman-built streets of Trier as you sail to Luxembourg, Rüdesheim, Cochem, Koblenz (pictured), Speyer, Strasbourg and beyond on a scenic journey to remember. The six-night Magic of the Moselle and Rhine itinerary departs August 15 from St Pancras, with prices from £1,795, including rail travel (greatrail.com).

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French fancy If getting picked up by coach and letting a guide and driver do the rest sounds tempting, Just Go Holidays’ coach-and-cruise packages might be just the ticket. Step aboard A-Rosa Stella on its 10-day Cruising the Rhone, Burgundy, Provence & the Camargue itinerary and you’ll find yourself wandering the labyrinthine alleys of Lyon, glimpsing the rolling vineyards of Burgundy and passing the purpled landscapes of Provence, with a bike tour around picturesque Chalon-sur-Saône, a visit to historic Avignon and a stop in Arles – former home of Van Gogh – among the delights. The 10-day Cruising the Rhone, Burgundy, Provence & the Camargue sailing departs June 10 and September 9 and 23, with prices from £1,449, including coach travel from various UK departure points (justgoholidays.com). 

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Bсt of Britain

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PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/MARTIN PAYNE

Domestic voyages exploded in popularity last year, and the trend isn’t over yet. Among the best of the bunch is a 13-day British Isles trip with Hurtigruten that explores some of Britain’s most remote coastal treasures, passing through Devon, Ireland, the Isle of Man and the Scottish Isles, with the line’s expedition team on hand to guide guests through the wildlife and dock in rarely visited corners of the country. Highlights include St Kilda (pictured), the Unesco-listed archipelago home to Europe’s largest seabird colony; Islay, famous for its peat-smoked whisky; and Fingal’s Cave, etched into the Isle of Staffa and known for its echoing ocean sounds. Hurtigruten’s 13-day British Isles – Remote Islands, Natural Wonders and a Diverse Coastline cruise departs from Dover in April, May, August and September, with prices from £2,849 (hurtigruten.co.uk). 

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FLEXIBLE BOOKING

Transfer your 2022 booking for free anytime up until your ﬁnal balance payment is due. Book by 31st March 2022*.

Cologne

CHRISTMAS MARKETS OF THE RHINE 5 DAY RIVER CRUISE FROM £795pp

Experience the spirit of Christmas on the Rhine, discovering fairytale Germany at the most magical time of the year. Renowned Christmas markets, the natural beauty of the Rhine Gorge and a host of festive treats await.

London

Rüdesheim

Cologne

UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES

WHAT’S INCLUDED

Visit the Christmas markets of Rüdesheim, Bonn and Cologne Discover the twinkling lights and enticing aromas of Germany’s Christmas markets, each with their own unique twist on this age-old, festive tradition.

4 nights of relaxed luxury on board your Amadeus ship

Seasonal celebrations Get in the festive mood with mulled wine, carol singing and a spectacular festive gala dinner on board that serves up both German and British Christmas treats.

Daily excursions led by local guides

Sail through the Rhine Gorge This geological monument has been the inspiration for countless legends throughout the years, and, at this time of year, is surrounded by glorious winter scenery.

Bonn

Koblenz

Cologne

London

2022 DEPARTURES Dec 2 from £795

Fully escorted return rail travel from London St Pancras

Dec 5 from £795

AMADEUS FLEET Our 5-star Amadeus ships boast impressive on-board facilities, including a ﬁtness room, a hairdresser and spa. There’s also a panoramic lounge and bar where you can relax, admiring the scenery as you cruise gently by.

5-Star dining and drinks package with dinner Your choice of spacious cabin UK Tour Manager and Cruise Director On-board entertainment

Order your free brochure now Call 01904 734083 • Visit GreatRail.com/RLM FLEXIBLE BOOKING

49 YEARS OF EXPERTISE

FULLY ESCORTED

Transfer your 2022 booking for free anytime up until your ﬁnal balance payment is due*

With ﬁve decades of experience at our ﬁngertips we’ll ensure your holiday goes without a hitch

Professional UK Tour Manager with you from start to ﬁnish

Protected by ABTOT. Dates and prices are subject to availability. Prices shown are per person, based on 2 people sharing. Prices may change prior to and after publication. *Book your 2022 holiday between 31st January 2022 up to and including 31st March 2022 and transfer your holiday for free anytime up until your ﬁnal balance payment is due. Terms and conditions apply, please see website for details.

Scandi cool Denmark, Russia, Estonia and Sweden are the stars on Celebrity Cruises’ 12-night Scandinavia & St Petersburg cruise, which departs from Southampton on the recently renovated Celebrity Silhouette. Guests will witness Copenhagen’s colourful architecture, explore St Petersburg’s shimmering canals and admire Tallinn’s baroque buildings on a 12-night voyage, docking in Stockholm to see its myriad islands and winding up in Visby, a walled Viking city situated on the Swedish island of Gotland that is known for its medieval art. Celebrity Cruises’ 12-night Scandinavia & St Petersburg cruise departs May 30 from Southampton with prices from £1,499 (celebritycruises.com). 8

Valiant exploration Virgin Voyages’ second ship Valiant Lady will make its inaugural trip on March 18, sailing from Portsmouth to Bruges on a mini ‘mermaiden voyage’. Guests (or ‘sailors’, in Virgin speak) will have three nights on board to sample its Insta-friendly features – among them 20 eateries, a glitzy nightclub, casino, immersive theatre and slew of lively bars – with a day in the historic Belgian city, where options include a day trip to Ypres and a scenic sail through Ghent. Virgin Voyages’ three-night Long Weekender in Zeebrugge departs March 18 and April 1 from Portsmouth, with prices from £898 per cabin (virginvoyages.com). 58

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Fording the fjords

PICTURES: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/KAVALENKAVA VOLHA; CELEBRITY CRUISES/MICHEL VERDURE; CHRISTOPHER ISON FOR P&O CRUISES

Drifting through Norway’s mirror-like fjords, mountains towering above as clouds dapple the peaks, is magical – and it needn’t require a flight to get there with P&O Cruises’ round-trip voyage from Southampton on new ship Iona. Expect aqua-blue glaciers, crashing waterfalls, colourful Viking-era settlements and remote fishing villages as you venture to Stavanger, Olden, Alesund and Haugesund. Thirty dining spots, three entertainment venues, a spa and multiple pools mean you’re unlikely to get bored on board, either. P&O Cruises’ seven-night Norwegian Fjords voyage departs from Southampton on various dates from April through to September, with prices from £549 (pocruises.com).

Sunset at the entrance to Luxor Temple, on the east bank of the Nile

IN THE FOOTSTEPS 60

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PICTURE: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/ALFREDO GARCIA SAZ

NILE CRUISE

pharaohs As a new film of Agatha Christie’s Death on the Nile puts Egypt in the spotlight, Sara Macefield explores ancient temples and age-old tombs without the crowds

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NILE CRUISE

A S T H E T R E AT S A R E L A I D O U T, I’M CONTENT TO S AV O U R T H E SWEETNESS OF THE MOMENT

ith a grand flourish, the butler throws open the hotel suite’s wooden louvred doors leading on to the balcony, and everyone gasps in astonishment. Before us lies what can only be described as an astounding visual feast: the indigo waters of the Nile sprinkled with lush emerald islands and the ivory sails of gliding felucca yachts, against a backdrop of golden Saharan sand dunes. Put bluntly, it’s a view to die for – and the irony of this is not lost on me as we are standing in the Agatha Christie Suite of the historic Old Cataract Hotel in Egyptian city Aswan. This is where the best-selling murder mystery queen

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stayed for six months in 1937 while writing her thriller Death on the Nile, the latest film adaptation of which hit movie screens in February. Sitting down for afternoon tea on the terrace overlooking the Nile’s sparkling waters, I can’t help wondering how a beautiful location like this could inspire such dark thoughts, but as the treats are laid out in front of us, I’m simply content to savour the sweetness of the moment and the views. We are at the most southerly stop on our one-week cruise from Luxor on Uniworld’s new opulent riverboat, Sphinx, which started sailing between the two cities CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

PICTURES: UNIWORLD/TM STUDIOS

last September, adding to the record number of vessels scheduled to cruise the Nile this year. Resembling a floating boutique hotel, this 84-passenger craft is full of Egyptian flavour, with plush interiors of local fabrics and hand-carved blonde wood ceilings that are complemented by traditional furnishings, including beaded brass lamps and artworks sourced from local artisans. The top deck is a palatial hangout that makes a perfect base to spend lazy hours absorbing riverside views from its mosaic-tiled pool, surrounded by sumptuous daybeds with tented drapes, inspired by ancient Egyptian barges. My suite, with its smart petrol-blue decor and spacious CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

marble en suite – with the luxury of a bath as well as a shower – is similarly enticing, especially as the French balcony makes another ideal viewing point. But as we set off on our 250-mile round trip from Luxor to Aswan, I’m surprised at how few other cruise boats there are. We have the river to ourselves most of the time, and spot many other vessels tied up along the banks in lines up to seven or eight deep. Apparently, there are 362 riverboats on the Nile this year, reflecting a boom in demand for cruises along this noble waterway, though only 55 were believed to be operating when I was there in January. 8 M A RCH /A PR IL 2022 |

Clockwise, from above: Cruising the peaceful Nile; the restaurant’s carved wood decor; a suite on Sphinx; the sun deck

Clockwise, from above: Hatshepsut Temple, Valley of the Kings; ramheaded sphinxes and columns with hieroglyphics, Karnak Temple, Luxor; view from the sun deck

The tourist sites are hardly overflowing either, with very few Europeans and no other Brits as far as I could tell. Even on Sphinx, apart from the small group of Britons I’m travelling with, everyone else is American. Yet the lack of tourists makes it an ideal time to explore this stretch of Upper Egypt before the crowds return, as they surely will. The country is pinning its hopes on a trio of momentous events this year to help restore tourism fortunes to the heady heights of 2010, when it pulled in nearly 15 million holidaymakers. The first is the new Death on the Nile movie, with a stellar cast led by director Kenneth Branagh who also | M A RCH /A PR IL 2022

plays Belgian detective Hercule Poirot, providing a fitting shop window for Egypt’s awe-inspiring backdrops and breathtaking antiquities. Additionally, this year is the centenary of the discovery of Tutankhamun’s treasures by British archaeologist and Egyptologist Howard Carter on November 4. This has also been flagged as a potential date for the much-delayed opening of Egypt’s $1 billion Grand Egyptian Museum, which has been built near the pyramids on the outskirts of Cairo to house more than 100,000 artefacts. They feature at least 4,500 items from the boy-king’s tomb, including the iconic gold death mask. It will be CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

NILE CRUISE

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/MAXAL TAMOR/ ANDREI NEKRASSOV/BIST; UNIWORLD RIVER CRUISES

O N LY N I N E TOMBS ARE O P E N AT A T I M E , T H E I R WA L L S D E C O R AT E D W I T H PA I N T I N G S

the first time the collection has come together since being removed from his burial chamber 100 years ago, following a detailed process of preserving and cataloguing that took nearly 10 years. Another star exhibit will be King Tut’s mummified body, which for the moment remains in situ in his tomb, meaning that I’m lucky enough to see it on our visit to the Valley of the Kings. Before the pandemic, 1.5 million visitors thronged to the sandstone cliffs of the Valley of the Kings each year, with crowds and queues commonplace. On our visit, fellow tourists are sparse – our boat makes up the largest group – CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

giving us the luxury of space and time to savour its secrets. Who knows how many tombs exist here, but so far 63 burial chambers have been discovered, carved into the craggy landscape, the largest dedicated to the family of Rameses II and containing an astounding 150 rooms. However, only nine tombs are open at any one time, their walls decorated with intricate paintings of the afterlife, the vivid colours seemingly undimmed by the passing of the millennia. Tutankhamun’s is the main draw, but also the smallest and least impressive of the four we view, though the account of its discovery and unimaginable riches found inside have given it legendary status, while the presence 8 M A RCH /A PR IL 2022 |

NILE CRUISE

EGYPT’S ANCIENT R U L E R S M AY H AV E D E PA R T E D, B U T THEIR SPIRITS S T I L L P R E VA I L

Clockwise, from top: Temple of Hathor; felucca sailboats on the Nile; pharaohs carved into the sandstone cliffs at Abu Simbel Temple

of his mummified remains lends an extra frisson. I’m intrigued as our guide, Tommy, tells us how the famous Tutankhamun curse has been blamed for a number of premature deaths within months of the tomb’s discovery. Lord Carnarvon’s demise following a mosquito bite has been well documented, but a key member of the excavation team is also said to have died in a mysterious car crash, and a colleague of Carter’s took his own life. Who knows if this is pure coincidence or the workings of sinister forces, but it all adds to the air of mystique surrounding these ancient dynasties and the long procession of temples and relics of their rule. | M A RCH /A PR IL 2022

At the start of the week Tommy warned us there would be a lot of information to take in – and after a few temple visits, I understand what he means. But that is not to downplay the extraordinary legacy of the ancient Egyptians and the mass of hieroglyphics carved into the walls and columns of the temples of Karnak and Dendera, among others, telling vivid stories of their existence and journeys into the afterlife. While fascinating, details about the many deities can be hard to absorb, but such information overload is a contrast to the timeless peace that comes with cruising the Nile. I relish the relaxed pace on Sphinx, with attentive service from the Egyptian crew and an exceptional mix of local CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/MERLIN 74/UNAI HUIZI PHOTOGRAPHY/EMANUELE MAZZONI PHOTO; ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/CALIN STAN

and international cuisine that ensures we dine royally and are treated like pharaohs. Yet my greatest pleasure comes from sitting on deck, mesmerised by a passing panorama of fishermen throwing their nets from rickety old boats, and the occasional camel plodding steadfastly along the banks. As the sun drops below the shimmering horizon at the end of another day, its dying rays turn the desert landscape blood red and a deep, soul-stirring silence descends. Egypt’s ancient rulers may have departed for the afterlife thousands of years ago, but on evenings like this, you sense their spirits still prevail. CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

GETTING THERE Uniworld offers 12-day Splendors of Egypt and the Nile packages that include four nights in Cairo and a seven-night round-trip sailing from Luxor to Aswan, between September and May. From £5,499 per person, including flights, drinks, excursions, onboard gratuities and Wi-Fi. Find out more and book at uniworld.com Read more about voyages along the Nile at cruise-international.com M A RCH /A PR IL 2022 |

5 BEST

CROATIA CRUISES If skimming the waves of the Adriatic appeals, stopping to swim by day and dine ashore by night, you’re not alone. With demand high for coastal cruising in Croatia, we seek out some of the best options APT: ISLANDS OF CROATIA CRUISE When a company quadruples capacity in just one destination, you know that it must be selling well – so it’s a sign of APT’s confidence in Croatia that it has added new dates, more itineraries and a second ship to its fleet in order to keep up with demand this summer. Custom new-build yacht Lady Eleganza is sailing nine-day voyages from May to October, stopping off to tour Dubrovnik, visit the Benedictine Convent in Hvar, explore Diocletian’s Palace in Split and see Marco Polo’s birthplace on the island of Korcula. A second ship, Princess Eleganza, is being refurbished and is due to join the fleet in spring. Prices start at £2,795 per person including flights, accommodation, some meals, beer and wine at lunch and dinner, and transfers (aptouring.co.uk).

SAIL CROATIA: DUBROVNIK RETURN This Croatia specialist started out targeting Aussie backpackers on a budget, but 17 years on, the UK makes up the majority of its market. That’s particularly true for its cycling trips, which are growing in popularity with families and active travellers, and its top-end Elegance range that offers a little bit of luxury at an affordable price. The Dubrovnik Return route, new this year, is one of 100 Elegance cruises on offer and includes excursions to Diocletian’s Palace in Split, a walk along Dubrovnik’s city walls and a stop at the mesmerising Blue Cave in Vis. A seven-night Dubrovnik Return cruise on board the 38-guest Esperanza starts at £899 per person including breakfast and three-course lunch, a captain’s dinner, local village dinner, transfers, tour manager and Wi-Fi (sail-croatia.com).

Anti-clockwise from top right (this page): Old city, Dubrovnik; The Terrace, Emerald Azzurra; a swim stop with Sail Croatia; the harbour in Dubrovnik; Lady Eleganza’s outdoor lounge

C R O AT I A C R U I S E S

ORBITAL TRAVEL: DELUXE DALMATIAN PARADISE CRUISE Wine tasting in Korcula, olive oil tasting on board, a dinner cruise alongside Dubrovnik’s city walls and a party in a local village all await guests on this itinerary from small-ship operator Orbital Travel. You’ll get the inside story on Game of Thrones filming locations around Split and Dubrovnik, and enjoy views across the latter city on a cable car ride from the Old Town to Srd Mountain, all from the comfort of a deluxe-category vessel holding up to 38 passengers. A seven-night cruise starts from £1,499 per person, including flights from London, transfers, breakfast and three-course lunch, captain’s dinner, wine tasting in Bol, guided tours, cable car and entry to Mljet National Park (orbitaltravel.co.uk).

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/MARCIN KRZYZAK/LOVRIC; JOSEPH THOMPSON; APT

TRADEWIND VOYAGES: CROATIA HIGHLIGHTS This new entrant on the tall-ship scene will see flagship vessel Golden Horizon flitting all over the world on different itineraries, so you’ll have to be quick to nab a spot on its sought-after Croatia sailings in July and August. Set off from Split with a short stop in the Italian city of Trieste, then admire the Venetian-inspired architecture of Rovinj, pristine landscapes of Mali Lošinj, hiking trails of Mljet and finally the much-photographed beach of Zlatni Rat on Bol – one of the best stretches of sand anywhere in Croatia. The 10-night sailing starts at £2,549 per person cruise-only departing July 31 (tradewindvoyages.com).

EMERALD CRUISES: CROATIA IN DEPTH Be among the first guests to step on board new superyacht Emerald Azzurra, the first of its type to join the Emerald Cruises fleet, when it sets off from Dubrovnik for eight-day voyages to Venice this spring and summer. Calling in at Croatia’s most popular islands – try the local white wine in Korcula, dine with the yachting crowd in fashionable Hvar and explore the country’s medieval roots in Krk – expect opulence on board and elegance ashore. Prices start from £3,571 per person with departures in April, May and July 2022 and April or June-November 2023 (emeraldcruises.co.uk).

Clockwise from top left (this page): Cycling with Sail Croatia; Golden Horizon; Rovinj, Croatia; Lady Eleganza; Zlatni Rat, Bol

Rocky TOO 70

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R O C KY M O U N TA I N E E R

With so many Alaska cruise travellers tagging on a trip on the Rocky Mountaineer, Katie McGonagle ﬁnds out what to expect from Canada’s most scenic rail journey

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R O C KY M O U N TA I N E E R

ust five more minutes, I think, as I draw another deep breath of crisp mountain air and exhale slowly, watching the tiny cloud of fog swirl away towards the forested slopes in front of me. The lure of the heated railway carriage and reclining seat is tempting, to be sure, but having this open-sided observation car all to myself is just too good to give up. Passengers had been wandering in and out all morning to take photos or exchange stories of their travels thus far – many of them comparing notes on Alaska cruises or offering tips for those about to embark. But now, there’s nothing to distract me from the view except the rhythmic trundling of the train on its tracks and a distant buzz of chefs hard at work in the kitchen car. That is until the tiniest hint of a snowflake drifts across, followed by another and another, carried on the air in a gentle flurry until it feels like I’m in the midst of my own personal snow globe, the jagged peaks of the Rocky Mountains my fairy-tale backdrop. Barely two days ago, I’d been basking in sunshine in Vancouver, but climbing from the coast into the mountains is like turning the clock back a season as far as the temperature is concerned. My secret solitude doesn’t last long – drawn by the first glimpse of snow, a rush of fellow travellers races to the viewing platform in barely the time it takes to throw on a coat and grab a camera. Yet I can’t begrudge them wanting to share in this experience, just one of the unexpected moments that occur on a journey through Canada’s great wilderness. 8

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PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK/ADAM KORZEKWA; SHUTTERSTOCK/YINGNA CAI; ROCKY MOUNTAINEER

Above: Downtown Vancouver, including Stanley Park Right: Boarding the Rocky Mountaineer

Clockwise from left (this page): Backdrop of the Rockies; Capilano suspension bridge; totem poles, Stanley Park

CLIMBING FROM THE COAST INTO THE MOUNTAINS IS LIKE TURNING THE CLOCK BACK A SEASON

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Clockwise from left (this page): Bald eagle; view of Castle Mountain from the observation car; dining in GoldLeaf; Stoney Creek

How far we had come from boarding the Rocky Mountaineer train in Vancouver, though the buzz of excitement in the air had been just as tangible then. Fresh from sightseeing in Vancouver – strolling along the seawall in Stanley Park, sampling artisan eats at Granville Island Public Market and taking a tour to Capilano Suspension Bridge – we were heralded onto the train by a bagpiper, the resounding notes echoing as we found our allotted GoldLeaf carriage. The train operates a mix of Gold and SilverLeaf service, including new GoldLeaf carriages added in 2019 to offer more legroom and other improvements. The most obvious differences are the size and mealtime routine: GoldLeaf offers a double-decker set-up with a dining room downstairs and seating on the upper deck (also accessible via a wheelchair lift), which brings you closer to the glass-domed ceiling. In SilverLeaf, meals and drinks are served to the seat, but there’s plenty of room and no shortage of scenery to enjoy through oversized windows. There was just enough time to admire the gleaming blue-and-gold façade before we were welcomed on board by our hosts, Holly and Jocelyn. Their voices would become pleasingly familiar as they led the commentary on the two-day First Passage to the West journey from Vancouver to Banff, highlighting points of interest along the way, not to mention keeping an eye out for sightings of bears, eagles, ospreys and more. We set off through the rather unassuming (some might say unattractive) outer reaches of the city, which gave way to the suburbs and slowly unravelled to reveal wide open stretches of British Columbian countryside. I spotted the shadowy curve of a mountain away in the distance. “Is that the Rockies?” I asked Holly, eager to catch my first glimpse. A bit too eager, it turned out, as she pointed 74

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PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/INGVAR GRIMSMO; LAARA CERMAN; ROCKY MOUNTAINEER

WE WERE HERALDED ONTO THE TRAIN BY A BAGPIPER, THE RESOUNDING NOTES ECHOING AS WE FOUND OUR CARRIAGE

R O C KY M O U N TA I N E E R

From top: Commentary in the domed GoldLeaf carriage; Albert Canyon near Glacier National Park; the scenery was spectacular throughout the entire journey

to the Cascade Mountains on a map and promised me the best was yet to come. Indeed it was, as the wide sweep of the Fraser River soon narrowed into a rushing torrent at the aptly named Hells Gate, the fastest-flowing spot along the river. We followed its tree-lined banks for a time, crossing over to the other side and back again, all the better to appreciate its powerful currents. It’s a reminder of just what it must have taken to lay down mile after mile of track in the midst of such vast tracts of untamed wilderness. The Rocky Mountaineer might be a relatively modern invention, in operation for just over 30 years, but the railway dates back much further. The nearly 600-mile route uses the tracks originally laid down for the Canadian Pacific Railway, following a promise to connect the eastern and western provinces by means of a cross-continental railroad. The train even passes the point at Craigellachie where the last spike was driven into the tracks in 1885, completing a gargantuan effort that cost not only huge sums of money but also countless lives. The contribution of legions of Chinese workers in carrying out some of the most dangerous construction tasks, often for the least reward, is only just starting to be recognised. Soon, we skirted the edge of Kamloops Lake, getting ready to pull in for the night at the British Columbian city of Kamloops. I’ve travelled on other long-distance train journeys where you settle into a sleeper carriage and wake up with a new view in the morning, but Rocky Mountaineer travels only during daylight hours so you need not worry about missing the best scenery under cover of darkness. We disembarked and were transported to our chosen hotel – which varies depending on whether you are travelling in Gold or SilverLeaf – and didn’t even need to worry about bags as these made it to the room before we did. 8 CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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There was plenty of time for dinner in a local restaurant and a good night’s sleep before we were up early to complete act two of our journey through the Rockies. Breakfast is served on the train and makes a feature of high-quality Canadian ingredients. Think Yukon Gold potatoes, Montreal smoked beef and British Columbian salmon lox, followed by Fraser Valley chicken and Alberta steak at lunchtime. The preference for Canadian produce even extends to the drinks list, with a host of BC-made wines. The correlation between cruise travellers and Rocky Mountaineer guests becomes ever more apparent, with the same focus on good food and stellar service to complement the experience. And what an experience it was, as we twisted and turned through sheltered valleys and across yawning gorges, watching the scenery transform from arid, undulating plains into slate-grey rockfaces and pine-forested peaks. We passed over the vaulted arches of Stoney Creek Bridge, towering dizzyingly high above the rushing water. Then snaked along the shores of Kicking Horse River for several miles, marvelling at how it seems almost to glow bright turquoise thanks to the glacial meltwater flowing through. Nature and industry go hand in hand every step of the way along this route, and no sooner had we finished gushing over the wonders of the natural world than we came across a wonder of engineering: the Spiral Tunnels. Ascending the Rockies is no mean feat, and the sudden increase in gradient in this section of the route proved treacherous for early 20thcentury trains. That’s when assistant engineer JE Schwitzer came up with the idea of carving two huge spiral tunnels out of the solid rock under Mount Ogden and Cathedral Mountain. The half-mile-long tunnels twist around inside the mountains and emerge 50 feet higher than where they started, offering a genuine thrill for rail buffs and novices alike. 8

Clockwise from top: Fine dining; Kicking Horse River; Fraser Canyon; elk in the Rockies; stunning views from the train; chef serving lunch in SilverLeaf; Stoney Creek Bridge

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PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK/OLEG CHARYKOV; LAARA CERMAN; ROCKY MOUNTAINEER

R O C KY M O U N TA I N E E R

THE PREFERENCE FOR CANADIAN PRODUCE EVEN EXTENDS TO THE DRINKS LIST, WITH A HOST OF BC-MADE WINES

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R O C KY M O U N TA I N E E R

From top: Castle Mountain; a grizzly bear in Banff National Park; Moraine Lake

Once navigated, the final stretch to Banff began, leaving time to scour the landscapes for any last wildlife sightings. It was in these exciting final few minutes that the call “Grizzly on the right” came over the speakers, as Jocelyn turned our attention to the fuzzy blob lumbering down the slopes. But in truth, I spent this time reflecting on how much I’d seen in just two days, collecting a mass of individual views – each one more spectacular than the last – into one abiding memory. Like the whole that is greater than the sum of its parts, travelling on the Rocky Mountaineer isn’t just an accumulation of snapshots of mirror-like lakes or rugged peaks, wondrous as they are. It’s about letting the scenery swirl around you and settle in the mind until you can close your eyes, no matter where you are in the world, and imagine yourself back in the heart of the Rockies.

A First Passage to the West journey in SilverLeaf starts at £1,043 and in GoldLeaf from £1,428, including overnight accommodation in Kamloops; departures run from April 25 until October. Rocky Mountaineer has also launched its first US route, From the Rockies to the Red Rocks, between Denver, Colorado, and Moab, Utah (rockymountaineer.com). Agents and tour operators can package up a journey on the Rocky Mountaineer with an Alaska cruise and sightseeing tours including to Lake Louise, Maligne Lake, the Icefields Parkway and more. Travelsphere offers a Rockies, Rail and an Alaskan Cruise holiday from £4,324 per person for 15 days, including a sailing on Holland America Line’s Volendam. Departures are available May to September 2022 (travelsphere.co.uk). Read more about cruise-and-stay holidays online at cruise-international.com 78

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PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/BGSMITH; ROCKY MOUNTAINEER

GETTING THERE

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PICTURE: ADAM GONZALES ON UNSPLASH

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Win

A SEVEN-NIGHT HOLIDAY SAIL FROM SOUTHAMPTON ON A SKY PRINCESS CRUISE

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COMPETITION

WITH PRINCESS CRUISES FOR TWO TO SPAIN AND FRANCE WORTH MORE THAN £1,500

rincess Cruises is offering one lucky Cruise International reader the chance to win an amazing seven-night cruise for two people, sailing from Southampton to Spain and France. Book excursions and connect with nature on a picturesque coastal cycle tour in Guernsey. Or travel to the peaceful islet of Herm, which remains almost unspoilt by man. From La Rochelle, you will discover the craftsmanship that goes into every bottle of cognac on the vineyards at the Camus Cognac chateau, or visit beautiful Bordeaux with its lush gardens, magnificent churches, sparkling waters and graceful bridges. Then on to Bilbao where an explosion of flavours awaits on a Local Connections Basque Cuisine Masterclass, or see exciting exhibitions at the masterpiece of titanium and limestone that is the Guggenheim Museum. Finally, a call at La Coruña would not be complete without a personal pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Alternatively, you can take a journey of a different kind to Spain’s first beer museum to enjoy tasting different Estrella Galicia beers.

You’ll sail in a balcony stateroom on board the stunning Medallion-class Sky Princess on September 17, 2022. Your cruise begins with your Medallion, a wearable device the size of a 10p piece. It offers the ultimate in effortless, personalised cruising and enables everything from touch-free boarding to locating loved ones anywhere on the ship, as well as enhanced

HOW TO ENTER For your chance to win, visit the Cruise International website to answer the question below before the competition closes at 11.59pm on April 29, 2022. What is the name of the wearable device used by Princess Cruises to enable touchfree boarding and enhanced service?

■ ■ ■

A Medallion B Key card C Bracelet

To enter, go to cruise-international.com/ win-a-cruise-with-princess-cruises

Terms & Conditions: The prize is offered by Princess Cruises and comprises a sevennight Spain & France cruise for two in a balcony stateroom on Sky Princess, departing from Southampton on September 17, 2022. The competition is open to readers of The Chelsea Magazine Company titles over 21 years only. Open to UK residents only, including England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland. Only one entry per person. The prize is as described, is not transferable and there is no cash alternative. The prize is one balcony cabin only for two people, subject to availability at time of booking. The prize includes accommodation, onboard main meals (excluding speciality restaurants in which a cover charge will apply), entertainment and most facilities on board. It does not include travel insurance (adequate insurance is a condition of travel), travel to or from the ship, parking, drinks, shore excursions, spa treatments, personal expenses, gratuities or pre-paid gratuities. All entries must be received by the closing date of 11.59pm on April 29, 2022. The winner and their guest must have a full valid passport (with validity for six months or more beyond the date of travel). Full terms and conditions can be found at cruise-international.com/win-a-cruisewith-princess-cruises

PHOTO: © ISTOCK

PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/MARIOGUTI

WHAT’S INCLUDED

service to have whatever you need, delivered. The ship’s contemporary design and luxurious features offer an array of included dining options such as Alfredo’s Pizzeria serving up hand-tossed pizza, the World Fresh Marketplace offering mouth-watering favourites throughout the day, and the International Cafe located in the Piazza – the perfect place for a crafted coffee while you watch the world go by. Or head to the main dining room to enjoy à la carte cuisine using fresh ingredients to create delicious food from scratch every day. For a treat, why not book one of the Speciality Dining options (charged extra) for a joyful celebration. Bistro Sur La Mer showcases a tantalising French feast; Sabatini’s Italian trattoria dishes up treasured family recipes curated by our Italian chefs; and the Crown Grill features premium aged beef and fresh seafood in a timeless setting. You’ll find plenty to do both day and night with an endless array of activities and entertainment. Enjoy a West End-style show at the Princess Theatre, snuggle up under a blanket on a starry evening to watch a feature film at our poolside Movies Under The Stars, and be captivated by experiences from one of the most trusted names in world travel with our Discovery at Sea programme. Retreat to the adult-only Sanctuary for some chill time or get well and truly pampered at the Lotus Spa – bliss! Sky Princess takes sea travel to new heights and this is your chance to win a trip of a lifetime. Enter now to be in with a chance of winning a Princess cruise.

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CRUISE ADVICE

Words of

WISDOM

Whether you’re a first-timer or an avid cruise fan, make sure you’ve ticked everything off your travel checklist with our expert tips on where to book, what to do before you depart and how to make the most of your time on board

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Scenic Gem, cruising Les Andelys

DON’T

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WORRY ABOUT FLYING

There’s no need to be put off by the idea of flying – there are many wonderful itineraries where you can travel by rail. And you can opt for a small ship where you’ll get a lot more space on board per guest. SARAH LANCASHIRE, BRAND & MARKETING MANAGER, SCENIC

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/ROSSHELEN; MIGUEL GONZALEZ

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BOOK THROUGH A TRAVEL AGENT

Travel agents play a vital role in the holiday experience, matching the customer with the right cruise line, ship and itinerary. They are also best placed to help those holidaymakers trying a cruise for the first time. Choosing a suitable cruise can seem a daunting process, but agents have the expertise and access to the best resources to help those who may want some additional guidance. They also work with a variety of cruise lines – and often travel with those lines – so they can offer personal and professional insight on different cabins, destinations, excursions and more, as well as on other complex issues such as travel insurance. From tips on finding a romantic bistro in a port city and the best times for onboard dining, to sourcing the most adventurous sea voyage for an upcoming trip, travel agents have the answers. ANDY HARMER, MANAGING DIRECTOR, CRUISE LINES INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (CLIA) UK & IRELAND

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CHECK THE LATEST RULES

“

When booking a cruise at the moment, check the requirements for vaccinations and testing for both the cruise line and the ports of call you are visiting – both when you book and again a couple of weeks before you travel as they are always being updated. The good news is that currently many of the requirements for vaccination are being relaxed.

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SIMONE CLARK, SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT OF GLOBAL SUPPLY, IGLU CRUISE

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Owner’s Suite living area, AmaMagna

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CONSIDER A LONGER CRUISE

We are certainly seeing a trend for longer cruises. Take the opportunity to see more of Europe on a 15-day cruise or even longer with our new Epic Voyages, taking in two or even three eight-day cruises combined.

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DAVID WINTERTON, GLOBAL DIRECTOR OF BRAND & MARKETING, EMERALD CRUISES

DON’T

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LEAVE IT UNTIL THE LAST MINUTE

We are seeing strong pent-up demand for this year, particularly for balcony and suite accommodation. So if there is a specific destination or time of year you are wanting to travel, get it booked now to avoid disappointment! JAMIE LOIZOU, MANAGING DIRECTOR, AMAWATERWAYS

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DON’T FORGET YOUR FACE MASK

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Carry a supply of comfortable masks with you for your safety. Well-fitting, high-filtration masks will make your travel experience so much more comfortable, and you will be safer too. EDWINA LONSDALE, MANAGING DIRECTOR, MUNDY CRUISING

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CRUISE ADVICE

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Porto, across the Douro River

PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO/ SEAN PAVONE PHOTO/ANNASTILLS; GREG PETERSON

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EXTEND YOUR TRIP

Consider a pre or post-cruise stay. Why not make the most of your flights or rail travel and spend longer in your cruise embarkation or disembarkation city? European river cruises start in cities such as Porto, Cologne, Lyon, Paris and Vienna – they are wonderful places to explore in more depth before or after you set sail.

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DO READ THE SMALL PRINT

One of the most important things to look out for is hidden costs, which can really bump up the price of a cruise. These include items such as soft and alcoholic drinks, shore excursions and gratuities, all of which are included within the cost of a Celestyal cruise. It’s also important to look into whether your cruise line will offer authentic experiences on board and ashore, as it is these experiences that will enable you to truly understand the destination, its customs and its culture. JO REID, COUNTRY MANAGER UK, CELESTYAL CRUISES

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LUCIA ROWE, MANAGING DIRECTOR, A-ROSA RIVER CRUISES UK & IRELAND CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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CRUISE ADVICE

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DON’T BE PREDICTABLE You don’t always have to travel in the same season. River cruises are great for returning travellers who wish to visit a destination again but want to see it from a different perspective.

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ROB STAPLEY, SENIOR CRUISE PRODUCT MANAGER, TITAN TRAVEL

DO FEEL REASSURED BY COVID PROTOCOLS

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The health and wellbeing of guests and crew is our number-one priority, and we have a wealth of measures on and off our ships to make cruises as safe as possible. Every guest must be fully vaccinated before departure. Our dedicated team ensures each ship and cabin is scrupulously clean, with touchpoints and shared equipment disinfected regularly. Enhanced policies across the ships include the use of hand sanitisers, contact-free services, social distancing and PPE. River cruising has always been one of the most rigorous sectors when it comes to health and wellbeing and we’ve enhanced it further, so this is the ideal time to catch up with travel once again.

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PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/LOST IN THE CITY; ROGER PAPERNO; SIMON HARVEY PHOTOGRAPHY;

STUART MILAN, CHANNEL DIRECTOR, RIVIERA TRAVEL

Chain Bridge across the Danube, Budapest 86

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Silversea in the Med

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BOOK EARLY FOR THE BEST VALUE

If you are a little nervous, book something closer to home – and what better than the Mediterranean? It is and will be the top-selling cruise destination this summer. But if you have a bucket-list trip in mind, now is the time to secure that trip of a lifetime for 2023 or 2024. We all love something to look forward to and booking early still gets you the best value. Look at all-inclusive holidays too, which include flights, transfers, hotels and everything while on board your cruise. Silversea now includes door-to-door private executive transfers between home and the airport. In the current challenging travel environment, it makes sense for the cruise line to take care of every element of your journey. PETER SHANKS, MANAGING DIRECTOR UK & IRELAND, SILVERSEA CRUISES

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DO USE YOUR FUTURE CRUISE CREDIT BEFORE IT EXPIRES

“

Do you have a future cruise credit still to use? Now is a great time to check the expiration dates of any credits received during our pause in operations and plan your return to ultra-luxury travel on a Seabourn cruise. We’ve extended our Worry-Free Promise so guests booking a cruise before March 31 and travelling before September 30 have the option to cancel a booking up to 30 days prior to departure on any new bookings and receive a future cruise credit.

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LYNN NARRAWAY, UK MANAGING DIRECTOR, HOLLAND AMERICA LINE AND SEABOURN

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DON’T FORGET TRAVEL INSURANCE

You must remember to get adequate travel insurance. This has always been important, but now, with the possibility of Covid impacting your travel plans, make sure you have adequate insurance to cover you against all eventualities, from a cancelled holiday through to lost luggage.

”

ANTONIO PARADISO, MANAGING DIRECTOR, MSC CRUISES UK & IRELAND M A RCH /A PR IL 2022 |

Neko Harbour, Antarctica

Antarctica

UP CLOSE Enjoy a step-by-step guide to the highlights of an Antarctica sailing with a steer from Jamie LaΩerty

PICTURE: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/ HAVE CAMERA WILL TRAVEL | ANTARCTICA

A N TA R C T I C A

ntarctica, the Seventh Continent, remains one of the world’s great wildernesses, and with no significant human habitation and strict rules around the conduct of both cruise ships and passengers, it’s set to remain a relatively pristine place for years to come. Flawlessness does not necessarily mean a warm welcome, however – conditions in the extreme south still dictate much of the planning for expedition leaders and ships’ captains. Many Antarctic itineraries are deliberately kept vague in case weather or ice prevent landings or, in some cases, even stop the ship from entering certain seas. Yet with much of the fun in the anticipation, it’s good to have an idea of where you’ll go and what you might see on your sailing. Even with all those qualifiers in place, here is a selection of the most frequently visited and most memorable sites around Antarctica’s frozen world.

WILHELMINA BAY

When people describe Antarctica as one of the planet’s best places for spotting wildlife, they typically mean for birds and, more specifically, penguins. Spend a calm morning in Wilhelmina Bay, however, and you can instead expect to be surrounded by cetaceans. It’s not uncommon to see dozens of humpback whales here in the middle of the Antarctic season, a job made a lot easier by the ordinarily calm water. Captains of smaller ships like the Magellan Explorer or G Adventures’ G Expedition tend to slow the vessel while passing through this classic Antarctic Peninsula destination, allowing passengers to take photographs or listen to the whales’ report as they come up for air.

DECEPTION ISLAND

Even by Antarctica’s remarkable standards, Deception Island is an unusual place. A still-active volcano, it provided shelter for whaling ships in the early part of last century but is now commonly visited by cruise ships as a final stop before heading back north across the Drake Passage. While most passengers will spend their time on black-sand beaches photographing chinstrap penguins or the remnants of an old whaling station, there are other ways of experiencing its sights up close. Aurora Expeditions has kayaking trips on sailings aboard Greg Mortimer or new ship Sylvia Earle that will have you paddling through the island’s imposing natural gate, a spectacular set of cliffs known as Neptune’s Bellows. Located at the north of the Weddell Sea, Paulet Island is home to a huge colony of Adelie penguins. The southernmost and hardiest species of brushtail penguin, in most Antarctic destinations they’re seen less commonly than their cousins, the gentoo and chinstrap. Not so here, where up to 100,000 breeding pairs of Adelies throng the rocky shore. Paulet is also remarkable thanks to it being one of the three bases established by men on Otto Nordenskjöld’s fraught 1901-04 expedition into the Weddell Sea. Following a hike across the island, don’t be surprised if you find Adelie penguins jumping around inside the ruins of the Swedish explorers’ hut.

PARADISE BAY

Given its name, perhaps Paradise’s popularity isn’t a surprise. Almost every cruise operator visiting the Antarctic Peninsula – including Hurtigruten, Oceanwide Expeditions, 8 90

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PICTURES: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/TOP-PICS TBK; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK/ FRANS VAN HEERDEN; SHUTTERSTOCK/BELOVA DARIA/ANDREW MOBBS

PAULET ISLAND

Opposite page, from top: A seal plays near the edge of an iceberg; gentoo penguins; view from the bow This page: Blue iceberg, Weddell Sea

PHOTOS: © ALAMY/AWL IMAGES

This page: Brown Base, Paradise Bay Opposite page, from top: Gravestone of Ernest Shackleton; former Grytviken whaling station; bust of Chilean Captain Pardo, Elephant Island

A N TA R C T I C A Celebrity Cruises and many more – will come to this scenic natural harbour. That’s partly because of the reliability of its conditions, but mostly because of just how gorgeous it is. Often filled with just the right amount of ice, it’s ideal for Zodiac cruises, kayaking and even snorkelling. Photographers will be very busy here – the ice often looks like floating sculptures – while anyone looking to stretch their legs will get the chance to visit Argentina’s Brown Base.

ELEPHANT ISLAND

Ships travelling between the Peninsula and subantarctic South Georgia will always pass Elephant Island. A dramatic and foreboding place, it was one of the key locations of Ernest Shackleton’s astonishing survival tale during the calamitous 1914-17 Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. The majority of Shackleton’s men were left here on Point Wild to wait out nightmarish conditions while their leader sailed with a handful of others to find help on South Georgia. Landing on Point Wild is rare, but Zodiac cruises around the historic peninsula or even seeing it from the deck of a larger ship will give a good introduction to what Shackleton’s men endured.

WEDDELL SEA

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/JORDISTOCK/GTW; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK/PK VISUAL JOURNEYS; JAMIE LAFFERTY

In some seasons the whole of the Weddell Sea is shut off because of dangerous ice conditions, and a few of history’s great explorers – including Shackleton and Nordenskjöld – were undone here. Modern captains understandably proceed with great caution. The rewards include a chance to see mighty tabular icebergs, some the size of shopping malls, up close. Landings to places like Vega Island offer an opportunity to go fossil hunting, too, but the real prize is Snow Hill Island. It’s there that ships with helicopters, including Quark Expeditions’ latest vessel Ultramarine and Scenic’s discovery yacht Scenic Eclipse, can visit the world’s northernmost emperor penguin colony. If your budget doesn’t quite stretch to the helicopter excursion add-on, other ships can still see some juveniles floating on bergs if they’re able to get close enough.

ANTARCTIC CIRCLE

Critics may suggest that crossing the Antarctic Circle is nothing more than a box-ticking exercise, but if you’re interested in extreme latitudes, then joining a Ponant cruise dedicated to hitting this mark will be worthwhile. If visiting Antarctica is rare, reaching this invisible boundary is yet more uncommon – only a tiny sliver of humanity ever gets to this point on the Earth. Racing down the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula, you’ll still have the chance to visit more popular sites such as beautiful Neko Harbour, but if conditions are favourable – and especially if you’re travelling on or around December 21 – you may have the sun with you all night.

ROSS SEA

The vast majority of Antarctic tourism starts and ends in South America, but for anyone looking for something wilder, Heritage Expeditions’ Ross Sea itineraries offer a full month of unpredictable adventure. Ordinarily leaving from New Zealand, the route passes singular subantarctic islands such as Snares and Macquarie with endemic penguin species, before pushing far south into the untamed Southern Ocean. Seeing other ships on these rare voyages is incredibly 8 M A RCH /A PR IL 2022 |

A N TA R C T I C A uncommon – this feels like Antarctic tourism from decades ago. If luck is on your side, you’ll also get a chance to visit Captain Scott’s hut and the sprawling McMurdo Station.

GRYTVIKEN, SOUTH GEORGIA

In as much as there is still a community on this British Overseas Territory, Grytviken is it. Once a Norwegian whaling station, it now feels like a living museum, with many of the rusting buildings testament to the grim industry that once dominated the region. Less macabre is the Norwegian Lutheran Church, occasionally used for weddings, while the South Georgia Heritage Trust maintains a shop, museum and post office. For many, however, it’s a chance to visit the grave of Sir Ernest Shackleton, who is buried in a small cemetery on the edge of the settlement.

STROMNESS, SOUTH GEORGIA

If South Georgia’s notorious winds allow, expedition staff will lead passengers almost literally in the footsteps of Shackleton on a hike from Fortuna Bay to the former whaling station at Stromness. ‘The boss’ led just two other men across this scenic pass in 1916 on their final, desperate trek to survival. Most visitors complete just the last four miles of the 36, passing through a colony of fur seals, before heading out across a bare pass, then down into a wide valley. Before descending, you’ll see what Shackleton saw: the old Norwegian base hugging the shore and offering respite.

SALISBURY PLAIN, SOUTH GEORGIA

King penguins are found around the world at subantarctic latitudes, but the gatherings in South Georgia are surely the most spectacular anywhere. Incomprehensibly large colonies are found in St Andrews Bay and Gold Harbour, both of which are visited by Swan Hellenic on its Falklands & Antarctica Discovery sailings, but the most dazzling is at Salisbury Plain. Often joined by bellicose elephant seals and cranky fur seals, the king penguin colony here is thought to be home to as many as 400,000 birds, which stand around a metre tall. It’s a lot to absorb with your eyes, but brace yourself as well for the smell and noise blasting over the plain. Stanley is a certain stop for any ships visiting the Falkland Islands, including everyone from NCL and Princess Cruises to Silversea, Seabourn and Holland America Line. If you’ve just spent a fortnight cruising around the Antarctic wilderness, arriving in a town of 2,500 people may feel a little jarring, but the chance to smell flowers and hike around Stanley Harbour to beautiful Gypsy Cove offers excellent compensation. There’s a surprising number of pubs, and a museum dedicated to the history of the island.

WEST POINT ISLAND, THE FALKLANDS

For some, this will be the final stop before heading back to South America. While that would make it unforgettable anyway, West Point is also home to one of the world’s largest colonies of black-browed albatross. These gorgeous birds nest in great numbers and a protected path allows intimate access to watch them perform courtship dances – or squabble with nearby southern rockhopper penguins. Read more about Antarctica on cruise-international.com 94

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PICTURES: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/TERENCE MENDOZA; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK/LEMBIBUCHANAN; SHUTTERSTOCK/ JOCELYN O; JAMIE LAFFERTY

STANLEY, THE FALKLANDS

This page: Humpback whale Opposite page, from top: Lutheran Church, Grytviken; blackbrowed albatross, West Point Island; Stanley, Falklands

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CRUISING THE CROATIAN COAST ON A PRIVATE YACHT Take one luxury superyacht, two Michelin-worthy chefs and swathes of sparkling blue sea along the sun-kissed Croatian coast, and you’re certainly in for a treat. That is exactly what Julie Peasgood discovers as she sets off on an Adriatic adventure with local yacht charter firm Goolets.

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With a rich tapestry of his tory, famous architecture, sun-soaked cov es and captivating cultural treasu res, the Med continues to sparkle as a destination. We round up the best Medite rranean cruises for the year ahead.

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SHIP REVIEW: SILVERSEA CRUISES’ SILVER MOON Embark on a culinary cruise with Silversea’s new foodie programme, Salt, which brings all the flavours of the region on board with cooking classes, creative restaurants and even a cocktail menu in keeping with the local area. Editor Katie McGonagle gets the lowdown on Silversea’s most recent ship launch in the Greek Isles.

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VERONA City guide

Add the city of star-crossed lovers onto an Italy cruise for the ideal alternative to Venice, says Katie McGonagle

erona has a lot to thank William Shakespeare for. Not only did he set two of his most famous plays here, forever associating it with the phrase ‘fair

Verona’ despite never setting foot on Italian soil, but he also sparked an obsession that still draws millions of visitors to this underrated city every year. They flock here in search of the ‘real’ Romeo and Juliet, captivated by theories that the story was based on two feuding families from the late Middle Ages, known as the Montecchis and the Cappellos. The names are just similar enough to Montague and Capulet for tourist guides to proudly proclaim Romeo’s House in the centre of the city and to encourage visitors to queue up for their fantasy moment on Juliet’s balcony. It’s largely wishful thinking, but while some come

you turn, there’s bound to be a landmark of some

in search of a tragic love story, they leave having

significance. Start with the Roman Arena, an

fallen for this seductive city. It’s not in the triumvirate

enormous amphitheatre built around 30 AD and,

of top-tier cities alongside Rome, Florence and

extraordinarily, still in use today for opera, rock and

Venice, but has more than enough to entertain for a

pop concerts. It’s also due to host the 2026 Winter

pre or post-cruise stay without the crowds.

Olympics opening ceremony.

Must-sees

– stopping to window shop at the likes of Gucci

Verona packs layer upon layer of history into a

and Dolce & Gabbana on this designer store-filled

remarkably small square footage, so wherever

street – to the bustling Piazza delle Erbe. Nowhere is

From there, it’s an easy stroll along Via Mazzini

Bottom row, from left: Piazza dei Signori; Palazzo Verona Hotel, NH Collection; local transport; Roman Arena; the best street for shopping

Verona’s jumble of architectural eras more apparent than in this market square, where a Roman statue of the Madonna sits atop a 14th-century fountain, overlooked by a baroque palace and a series of fresco-covered facades. If you want a really good view, try climbing the stairs (or take the lift, if an 84m-high tower sounds a bit of a stretch) of the Torre dei Lamberti, which sits at one corner of the square offering an ideal vantage point on the busy market stalls below. Just a few steps away, Piazza dei Signori pays tribute to another of Verona’s literary heroes: Dante

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CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

CITY GUIDE

Main image: Ponte Pietra Top row, from left: Castelvecchio Bridge; cheese and wine by the river; capturing the sights; Juliet’s balcony

wrote part of his Divine Comedy here and is depicted deep in thought in the centre of this enormous square. It sits next to the imposing Scaliger Tombs, a macabre monument to the Della Scala family who once ruled over this region. It’s worth taking a guided tour just to hear the intricate stories of the power struggles that plagued this dynasty for centuries.

Eating and sleeping The must-try dish in Verona is risotto all’amarone, which infuses an ordinary risotto with the rich, bold flavours of the region’s signature red wine. You’ll find it on menus across the city, from ordinary osterias

If you want to go further still, the balmy shores

up to fine-dining establishments, but for a truly

of Lake Garda are as little as half an hour away.

sumptuous version, Antica Bottega del Vino is one of

The southern tip around Peschiera del Garda tends

the best in town.

to be busier than the north shore, but you’ll find

There are some excellent hotels just outside the centre, but if you want to be in the heart of the

plenty of space to stroll along the waterfront with a gelato in hand.

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK/GIORGIO FOCHESATO/ NOSYSTEM IMAGES/MARIA VONOTNA/SAMAEL334/FLAVIO VALLENARI/ANZELETTI/NIMU1956/ROSSHELEN/YASONYA; FILIPPO GALLUZZI

action, the NH Collection Palazzo Verona Hotel has the dual benefit of being modern in design but also

Getting there

centrally located. Rooms start from £275 per night

British Airways will fly to Verona from its new base

(nh-collection.com).

at Gatwick from March 29 (ba.com). Meanwhile, Jet2.com serves the city from a number of regional

Explore further

UK airports including Manchester, Birmingham,

It’s hard to tear yourself away from the maze of

East Midlands, Leeds Bradford, Bristol, Stansted

medieval streets and tiny, tucked-away alleys in the

and Belfast International (jet2.com). Cruise

old town, but there’s more to Verona outside its city

lines that offer guided excursions and pre-cruise

walls. Cross the ancient Ponte Pietra over the Adige

itineraries in Verona

River – the once-furious torrent that was subdued in

include Seabourn, Regent

the 19th century after flooding left the area in ruins –

Seven Seas Cruises, Viking

for a superb vantage point on the old city to one side

and CroisiEurope.

and the cypress tree-dotted slopes of Castel San Pietro on the other. The bridge itself has a fascinating tale to tell, built by the Romans and a key trading route for centuries until several of its pillars were bombed during the Second World War, leaving it impassable.

For more city guides and destination inspiration, log on to cruise-international.com

The riverbed was later dredged and the bridge rebuilt using original materials.

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WOMEN IN CRUISE

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As the world marks International Women’s Day, Kaye Holland meets the women setting the agenda for the future of cruise

Making WAVES F

PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/AUMVECTOR

or centuries, the only female you’d find on most ships was the carved wooden figurehead, affixed to the bow, that the sailors believed would bring them navigational luck. Fast forward to 2022 and it’s all change: the past couple of decades have witnessed some inspirational women make a real and lasting impact across the industry. To celebrate International Women’s Day on March 8, we bring you six women – in fields from conservation to captaincy, culture and science – making their mark in the rapidly changing cruise world. 8

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WOMEN IN CRUISE

JO RUXTON Ocean conservation ambassador, Aurora Expeditions Film producer and plastic pollution campaigner Jo Ruxton founded Ocean Generation, an NGO on a mission to restore a sustainable relationship between humanity and the ocean. Jo has been hailed by Sir David Attenborough as “the person responsible for the plastic-free movement” and honoured with an MBE for her ocean advocacy. Have you always been drawn to the ocean? Yes. Growing up, I would read books about mermaids or water babies and when my family moved to Singapore in the ’60s, we spent every weekend in the sea. I then did a degree in marine biology and went on to establish the first WWF marine programme in Hong Kong before joining the BBC Natural History Unit. Tell us about your time at the BBC. I was at the BBC for 12 years and worked on Blue Planet, but always felt that we were only showing the beautiful side – not the rising levels of plastic finding its way into our oceans. I felt a duty to tell the true story so I left to work on my own documentary, A Plastic Ocean, and set up a charity, Ocean Generation, to spread the message of ocean conservation. And now you have been named Aurora Expeditions’ first ambassador for conservation… It’s an absolute honour. Cruise has been engulfed by various reports of damaging behaviour, certainly around coral. It’s time we had another look at this. The industry depends on

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the ocean being healthy, and that’s why this initiative is so important and why I am delighted to be involved. What challenges have you faced in your career? Being sidelined as an older woman. At the BBC I was told: “You will never get higher than a producer. Everyone is happy with your work, but you are an older woman.” Mature women are frequently overlooked, underestimated and ignored in all elements of life. When you’re not campaigning for the oceans, what do you like to do? Cold water swimming in Cornwall. I moved here a few years ago and, for the first time in my life, I felt at home. I don’t want to be anywhere but Cornwall – although I am looking forward to a voyage to Antarctica next year aboard Aurora’s newest ship, the Sylvia Earle. Who would I love to invite? My two heroes: [marine biologist] Sylvia Earle, who has devoted her life to protecting the world’s oceans, and Sir David Attenborough. Mind you, David has been there so many times he’d probably say: “Not Antarctica again!”

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VERENA MERALDI Chief scientist, Hurtigruten Mexican-Swiss biologist Dr Verena Meraldi was born in Mexico City and studied at the National University – the largest university in Latin America. Verena started working for Hurtigruten as a lecturer on board Fram in 2007. In 2018, she became the cruise industry’s only chief scientist. Tell us a little about your role as chief scientist at Hurtigruten. It is my duty to oversee the line’s Science Program, firstly by supporting the scientific community. We do this by offering our ships as research platforms. Secondly, by inviting guests to participate in specific Citizen Science Projects aimed at increasing awareness and creating ambassadors to contribute to the preservation of our planet’s most vulnerable regions, communities and wildlife. I also represent the cruise line in international scientific gatherings, where I introduce our ships and the potential they offer as platforms for temporal and spatial research studies in remote, difficult-to-access areas. What attracted you to expedition cruising? I’ve always had an inquisitive mind and when the circumstances allowed me to visit Antarctica for the first time in 2007, I jumped at the chance. I have been hooked ever since. I realise how these unique, fragile areas have the potential to channel change in the behaviour and attitude of those who are lucky enough to join our expeditions.

PICTURES: ALASTAIR SCARLETT; GENNA ROLAND/HURTIGRUTEN; ESPEN MILLS

What do you love most about your job? Seeing the surprise and wonder on our guests’ faces when they discover something they weren’t expecting to see, such as phytoplankton, which is responsible for producing half of the world’s oxygen. I’m always amazed and encouraged by guests’ desire to learn more and then commit to doing whatever they can to protect the ocean and environment. It’s priceless. From top: Verena in Antarctica; guests learning in the onboard lab; promoting Hurtigruten’s Science Program; researchers in Svalbard

Critics claim that cruise ships impact the ocean and environment. How do you respond to this? Everything we do has an impact on the environment. What’s important is what we do about it. Also, seeing is believing, and the best way to encourage people to do something about climate change is to witness it firsthand. We guide and encourage our guests to change their behaviour in favour of the preservation of our planet through education and by setting an example. 8

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LENTY KENIS Assistant shore excursions manager, Holland America Line Belgian-born Lenty Kenis joined Holland America Line (HAL) in 2016, having caught the cruise bug at the tender age of 12 following a family cruise around the Mediterranean. After studying tourism, she started her career as a reservations sales agent in HAL’s Rotterdam office, before swapping dry land for life at sea as an assistant shore excursions manager. Tell us about your current job responsibilities. I take care of all the excursions in each port of call. This involves keeping in contact with local tour operators, setting up the system for bookings, assisting guests with enquiries, dispatching the tours in each port, and then auditing them so we can continue to offer high-quality shore excursions. I love helping guests choose the right tour for them, and then seeing their smiling faces upon their return to the ship. What do you love most about life at sea? Travelling to amazing places – standouts include Australia, New Zealand, Greenland, Iceland, Alaska, Greece, Israel and Hawaii – and getting to explore and experience them via the excursions we sell, while meeting new people. Conversely, what is the most challenging aspect of ship life? Being away from home and not seeing my friends and family for six months at a time. However, this is offset to a degree by the fact that I get a new family: when you spend so much time together on board, your colleagues become

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family. When the opportunity presents itself, we’ll head ashore together or enjoy an after-work drink at the crew bar. It’s important that we’re there for each other, as we’re all a long way from home and loved ones. It’s not uncommon for women to still be heavily outnumbered on board… That’s true, but we are all equal and women shouldn’t be put off pursuing a career in the cruise industry. Most of the women on board work within the hotel department, but you will also find a few in the deck or engine department. I hope that will change and more women will pursue a career on the seven seas. What would you tell women considering a career in the cruise industry? Let nothing stop you. There are various roles on board and I’m sure there is one that would fit you. Working on a ship is almost addictive – visiting new destinations, meeting guests and working with different colleagues on each contract.

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WOMEN IN CRUISE

BELINDA BENNETT Captain, Wind Star, Windstar Cruises Saint Helena native Belinda Bennett made history when she became the first black female captain of a cruise ship – the 148-passenger Wind Star, one of Windstar Cruises’ three luxury yachts. She’s also a recipient of the highest honour in the UK merchant navy: the Merchant Navy Medal for Meritorious Service. However, her career at sea hasn’t always been smooth sailing.

PICTURES: ANDYJOHNSON; BENJAMIN ARTHUR PHOTOGRAPHY

Did you always set out to work in the cruise industry? I actually worked on a private yacht in Monaco for two years and wanted to stay in the yachting industry. However, after earning my Masters Unlimited Certificate, it transpired that I was a little ‘overqualified’ and an apparent threat to what was a very male-dominated yachting industry.

Belinda has worked hard to become captain of Wind Star (left in main image above)

Tell us about the difficulties you have faced and how you overcame them. I’ve encountered both racism and sexism over the years, but I have refused to let it ever be an issue. It’s not my problem, it’s theirs. As I tell my guests on board: “I am a woman who has had to work twice as hard, so that makes me twice as good, right?” What do you enjoy about working at Windstar? The company’s ships and the intimate atmosphere on board – you get to meet and greet guests and crew alike. And there are fabulous places that smaller cruise ships, unlike larger

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vessels, can call at. It’s the perfect cruise line for me, and for any guest who wants to get ‘off the beaten path’ a bit. Do you see yourself as a role model for other women? I am starting to now, having received so many lovely comments and messages from around the world. I set my personal goals in life, which I have achieved so far through hard work, dedication and a strong support network. It’s been fun ending up in the headlines and sharing my story, but it’s been incredibly exciting and gratifying to hear that I’m inspiring other women to forge similar career paths. Any advice for women wanting to follow in your footsteps? Don’t be afraid to come to sea. You get to travel the world and are paid to do so. When you put your mind to something and you really want it, you will work hard for it. And if you really, really want it, no matter what obstacles come your way, you can and will overcome them. If I can do it, anyone can. 8

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JENIFER AUSTIN Founder of oceanagenda.com and godmother of Enchanted Princess, Princess Cruises Jenifer Austin spent nearly 14 years at Google, where she jointly led the team that launched the first virtual map of the ocean, before starting oceanagenda.com to bring together diverse groups to support holistic ocean stewardship. In recognition of her contributions to ocean conservation, the keen scuba diver was recently chosen as one of three godmothers of Enchanted Princess.

Jenifer takes part in the christening ceremony for Enchanted Princess (main image)

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Congratulations on becoming a godmother to Enchanted Princess. What does the role mean to you and how did it come about? Being a godmother of Enchanted Princess means taking a protective role over the ship and its crew. We all gathered for an event to christen the ship and I said prayers for its protection. I think this is very important and there’s an ancient tradition around it. I am a Pisces, so have always had a connection to the sea. The opportunity came about because I am a member of The Explorers Club [a society dedicated to the advancement of field research, scientific exploration and resource conservation], and I served last year on the Women’s 40 Committee, celebrating 40 years of women being in The Explorers Club.

Have you encountered any difficulties in your field to date? In science, I found it a difficult environment as a woman. In business I was bullied, paid dramatically less than male colleagues, refused promotion, had my job taken over while on maternity leave and saw my projects given to men – who were then advanced on the basis of them. Inspired by what I went through, I have supported women and men and tried to be the change I want to see in the world, like Gandhi.

What’s next for you in terms of ocean conservation? The next big focus for me is to help improve investment into ocean and climate start-up companies. The EU has led the way in requiring that companies invest in climate-smart technologies. In the US it’s very difficult for ocean and climate start-ups to get traditional venture capital investment, so there’s a gap. We need new technology.

After years of scuba diving all over the world, what are the travel essentials you always pack? Fun fact: I make my own meditation essential oil perfume blends through my company, Ahana Gold. These are mustpacks for me: I put the scent in my travel mask for a touch of peace in transit. I also take along my Muse 2 meditation headband to track my brain wave activity while I meditate – after all, I am a neuroscientist.

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What do you consider your proudest achievement? My two children, who I’ve tried to teach about the ocean and climate and why it’s important. I’m also proud of launching the first virtual map of the ocean in the consumer products Google Earth and Maps. This has allowed billions of users to discover the ocean without a snorkel.

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KATE McCUE Captain, Celebrity Beyond, Celebrity Cruises Captain Kate McCue needs little introduction. The Louboutin-wearing skipper became the first American woman to captain a cruise ship, the 2,158-passenger Celebrity Summit, in 2015. She went on to captain Celebrity Equinox and is now in charge of an even larger vessel, the 3,260-passenger Celebrity Beyond, which is slated to launch in April. Do you remember when you decided that you wanted to pursue a career in cruise? My parents took my brother and me on our very first cruise, a four-day voyage to the Bahamas, when I was 12. When we were packing to go home, I said to my dad: “I want to be a cruise director when I grow up.” And my dad replied: “You can do anything you want to do in the world – including drive the thing.” What does becoming the first American woman to captain a mega-ship mean to you? Becoming the first American woman to captain a cruise ship was a goal I set as I was rising through the ranks. There is an advantage to being the ‘first’. For me, it meant I could write my own rule book and define my position the way that I wanted to, by being authentic and bringing a sense of self to the captain’s role. Do you think women are represented in cruise leadership? When it comes to leadership representation in the cruise industry, one name comes to mind above all others: Lisa Lutoff-Perlo. As Celebrity Cruises’ president and chief executive, she has made such a positive impact in recruiting underrepresented minorities, including women, into this industry by being a positive disrupter for change. What is the next big focus for you? My focus for 2022 is to introduce Celebrity Beyond to the world. She isn’t just a ship or an amazing destination in and of herself. While her hardware is spectacular, what sets her apart is her software – our incredible crew members. They make me so proud, every single day, to work with them.

Captain Kate is set to lead the bridge on Celebrity Beyond (middle image) this spring

It looks like you’ve been having a lot of fun on TikTok… I see it [TikTok] as a way to let your goofy out whereas Instagram is my digital photo album. At the beginning of the pandemic cruise ships didn’t have the best representation in the media, and what was frustrating was being on board and knowing the amazing things we were doing. Social media was a way I could highlight this.

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RIVER EVENTS 2022

All the worlds’

A STAGE This year, there’s a hat-trick of reasons to take a cruise on the Rhine or Danube as Europe’s most popular waterways are the gateway to three spectacular events. Jeannine Williamson explains all

FLORIADE EXPO 2022

What is it? The springtime delights of the Dutch bulbfields have long been a delight for garden enthusiasts, and there’s an extra special reason for green-fingered visitors to head to Holland in 2022. The Floriade Expo, held in the city of Almere outside Amsterdam, takes place only every 10 years. Spread over 150 acres, the global horticultural event showcases gardening expertise, innovation and inspiring ideas with input from the world’s leading horticultural experts. The theme of this year’s event is ‘growing green cities’, and after the six-month show finishes there are plans to turn the site into an eco-friendly residential neighbourhood. Pavilions, ornamental gardens, a vast greenhouse and an arboretum will be filled with more than 3,000 trees, shrubs, plants, flowers, vegetables and fruit, and an aerial cable car will give visitors a bird’seye view of the dazzling displays. From vertical sustainable gardens to tasting sessions, 108

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Floriade is a feast for all the senses. A packed programme of arts and culture events will run alongside the displays and include talks inspired by the idea of bringing the country into the city. River cruise lines are offering themed sailings to coincide with the unique exhibition, and some will be hosted by gardening gurus who will lead the trip to Floriade and share tips during onboard talks and Q&A sessions. They include Arena River Cruises, which has sailings accompanied by Christine Walkden, who has appeared on Gardeners’ World, and Helen Yemm, author of Gardening in Pyjamas. Saga passengers will be joined by horticulturist, writer and broadcaster Anne Swithinbank. Who sails there? Arena River Cruises’ Floriade and The Delightful Dutch Waterways cruise, departing May 21 and 25 (arenarivercruises.co.uk); Saga’s Flowers of Floriade and Keukenhof cruise, departing April 20 (travel.saga.co.uk); Scenic’s Dutch Sights and Belgian Delights cruise, departing May through October (scenic.co.uk).

PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/ANTON IVANOV

When is it? April 14 to October 9

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Above: Keukenhof park, near Amsterdam Below from left: Horticulturist and writer Anne Swithinbank; the common white jasmine; gardener Christine Walkden; a dahlia honka flower

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RIVER EVENTS 2022 OBERAMMERGAU PASSION PLAY When is it? May 14 to October 2

Above and below: Ever since 1663, Oberammergau residents have praised God – in play form – for answering their prayers during the Black Death

What is it? In 1663, the residents of the Bavarian village of Oberammergau promised to recreate the life, death and resurrection of Christ every decade if God spared them from more fatalities from the Black Death plague sweeping across Germany. Their prayers were answered and the following year they performed the passion play for the first time. Roll forward a few centuries and the 42nd performance of the epic spectacle of music and drama was cancelled in 2020 due to the pandemic, but the performance has been revived this year. To take part in the world-famous play, which involves a cast of 2,500 locals, participants must either have been born in Oberammergau, lived there for 20 years or been married to a local for 10. No wigs are allowed so actors grow their hair and beards for the roles. The sixhour play starts in the afternoon and is spread over two halves, with a three-hour interval that allows plenty of time for visitors to have dinner and see the picturesque town, which is also noted for its woodcarvings and ornate painted buildings. The play is performed in German, but English-speaking members of the audience receive a souvenir booklet with a complete translation of the text. Throughout the season, river lines are offering the opportunity to see the play on selected Rhine and Danube itineraries or as a pre-cruise land extension. With both options, all the arrangements are taken care of and passengers benefit from transport to and from Oberammergau, preferred seating for the performance and dinner during the interval. Who sails there? Emerald Cruises’ Oberammergau and Danube Delights cruise departs May 20 and June 11 (emeraldcruises.co.uk); Uniworld is offering a pre-cruise package on the Delightful Danube cruise departing May through September (uniworld.com); Viking River Cruises has assorted Oberammergau itineraries departing May through October (vikingrivercruises.co.uk).

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Above: The spectacular Rhine in Flames festival, Germany

RHINE IN FLAMES

PICTURES: ALAMY/SUEDDEUTSCHE ZEITUNG PHOTO; GETTY IMAGES/ ISTOCKPHOTO/EKH-PICTURES; DIGITAL VISION VECTORS

When is it? September 10 and 17 What is it? The dramatic Rhine in Flames is the largest and oldest fireworks show in Germany, dating back to the 18th century. The festival is held each year over five weekends from May to September, when huge firework displays light up the night sky at different locations along the river. Castles and historic buildings bask in a red and orange glow and the whole spectacle is reflected in the shimmering waters of the Rhine below. The finale takes place in the Middle Rhine Valley CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

in September, coinciding with Germany’s wine harvest, and these are the main dates for themed river cruises. During the festival a flotilla of illuminated vessels sail past the vineyards of the famous winegrowing region, and visitors from near and far raise their glasses beneath a cascade of glittering fireworks. Who sails there? Amadeus River Cruises’ Rhine in Flames cruise, departing September 8 (amadeus-rivercruises.co.uk); A-Rosa River Cruises’ Rhine Discovery St Goar cruise, departing September 11 (arosa-cruises.co.uk).

CAPTAIN’S NOTES “The Rhine in Flames festival is really special because there’s competition between celebrations in different places along the Rhine, so every year the festival has to be bigger, better and more spectacular. Each year the music is different, but the atmosphere is always amazing. “Calypso is one of a small number of river cruise ships sailing in the flotilla, because for safety reasons larger ships are no longer allowed to join. The flotilla comprises lots of day boats and maybe a maximum of five smaller river cruise ships, and when the ship is sailing with the flotilla you can experience the whole festival from beginning to end, which is something really special. “The best thing is seeing passengers happy after experiencing the festival. They love the whole atmosphere – the music in combination with the fireworks is spectacular, and thousands of people turn out to watch along the river, so it’s a really big event.” Wido Arts, captain of Arena River Cruises vessel Calypso

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ASK THE EXPERTS Got a question about your next cruise holiday? Get advice from our experts by emailing info@cruise-international.com

We missed out on our silver wedding celebrations last summer so we’re making up for it by splashing out on a big holiday to Alaska next year. Would we be better oΩ upgrading our stateroom to a suite, or upgrading to a luxury line but with a more basic room category? James Cole, founder and managing director, Panache Cruises

When you’re booking a cruise for a special occasion such as a silver wedding anniversary, it’s important to get it right. I always advise customers to look at the total cost of the cruise, rather than the initial cost. Many mainstream cruise lines charge a lower ticket price – the cost to get on board – but have considerable extra charges for the likes of drinks, excursions, speciality dining, Wi-Fi and tips or gratuities when on 112

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the vessel. As a result, the costs can be a lot higher than originally thought. In contrast, most luxury and ultraluxury cruise lines have a higher cost to get on board but include most or all the extras as part of the initial price, so the overall cost to cruise on a luxury ship is not as much as you might initially think. Also, on many luxury and ultraluxury cruise ships, suites are the standard accommodation type so that’s included too, and with some you even get your very own personal butler! So our advice would be to consider a luxury or ultra-luxury line and compare the total cost of the cruise, not just the initial price.

What happens if there are Covid cases detected on our ship – will we be conﬁned to our cabins or can we be tested and then get on with our holiday? Andy Harmer, managing director of Cruise Lines International Association (Clia) UK & Ireland

In most instances, passengers will be able to continue their holiday thanks to the cruise lines’ multilayered approach. This includes additional testing, enhanced sanitisation, contact tracking and the use of isolation and quarantine for those who test positive. There are some differences based on the ship, itinerary and specific protocols, and passengers are advised to speak to their cruise line before departing if they would like further information.

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ON SALE APRIL 22

I’ve been running every day since lockdown started but now we’re going on our ﬁrst cruise since Covid and I’m worried I’ll ﬁnd it hard to keep it going – any advice? Jeannine Williamson, Cruise International contributor

You might be clocking up nautical miles but you don’t have to hang up your running shoes at sea as all large cruise ships have gyms. Many rival the ones you find on dry land and are equipped with the latest treadmills, so you can stick to your training schedule. MSC has panoramic gyms overlooking the front of its ships so you run in the direction you’re sailing, and there’s a really cool urban-style gym on Virgin Voyages’ Scarlet Lady. Alternatively, most vessels also have outdoor running tracks with signs showing how many circuits equal a mile. One of the best is on Celebrity Edge, which even has uphill and downhill sections. On river cruises you’ve got a ready-made running track everywhere you dock as there are flat paths and promenades alongside the waterway, and if you stick to the bank you’re not going to get lost. So have a great cruise and keep on running!

NEXT ISSUE... NORTHERN LIGHTS GALAPAGOS ADVENTURE FAMILY CRUISES

We’re travelling to Barcelona in May for a cruise around the Med but my passport runs out in June – can I still travel or have the rules changed, and will I have time to get a new one before we go?

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK/MAKSIMS GRIGORJEVS; BILETSKIY_EVGENIY; MSC CRUISES/IVAN SARFATTI

Gemma Antrobus, managing director, Haslemere Travel

Since we left the EU in January 2021, passport rules have changed. If you’re travelling within the EU, your passport is now only valid for 10 years from the date of issue. Prior to last year, you had always been able to travel within the EU for the full length of your passport, but many travellers are now getting caught out. New passports are being issued with only 10 years’ validity, but if yours was issued prior to the change, you may find the new rules apply to you. Please also remember that countries in the EU will require you to have three to six months remaining on your passport, in order to travel. In this case, I’m afraid you’ll need to apply for a new passport. There are a number of ways to do this, including booking an appointment to have your passport issued on the same day. The quicker the service the more expensive it will be, but better to do this than lose your holiday because your passport is not valid. CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

PLUS

Win a holiday for two

C E L E B R I T Y T R AV E L S

John Sergeant

The former BBC and ITV political editor, also known for his star turn in Strictly Come Dancing, picks out his most memorable travel moments My wife taught Latin and Greek, and we usually discover common enjoyment in classical sites. I like the idea of learning something, as well as enjoying food and good weather, and that hasn’t changed over the years.

One of the happiest times of my life and my best holiday experience came in my ‘gap year’. I was 18 and had got into Oxford, and I worked as a filing clerk to save enough money to go to America for seven months. In those days, the cheapest way was to cross the Atlantic on one of the famous ocean liners. I travelled both ways on the old Queen Elizabeth, and worked just outside Washington DC as an accountant in a plant that made concrete patio blocks. Not on the face of it very exciting, except that the company was about to go bust and as bookkeeper, I had a ringside seat.

I would love to go to China, but after all my years with the BBC and now as a freelance, I am slightly concerned about how they might treat me as a journalist. But I haven’t given up hope. I remember after reporting from Vietnam during the war, we were allowed to spend a few days in Hong Kong, but seeing China from across the border was nowhere near enough.

I like to combine holidays with some work. I find one of the best ways to switch off is to keep busy. Over the years my annual sailing holiday – renting a yacht on the south coast and sometimes sailing to France – has fitted the bill perfectly. You spend so much of your time thinking about the wind and the waves. It is a marvellous way to escape from everyday concerns.

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Going back to a place where you have been badly frightened as a war correspondent is never easy. I was trapped in a hotel in Nicosia in Cyprus when the Turks invaded in 1974 and was only rescued with the arrival of Canadian troops working for the United Nations. But I have been back several times, and even though still divided, Cyprus remains one of the most bewitching holiday destinations.

Clockwise, from above: Martin Luther King Jr; Qinlong Temple, Xi’an, China; Eiffel Tower, Paris

I was married in January 1969 and with our very limited funds, Mary and I spent two glorious days in a very cold Paris. We try to get back there every year, though not always for the anniversary – as a holiday city, Paris is hard to beat. I have always liked holidays with a theme, and we have often found it in archaeology.

For the first time in years, I have not been abroad [since the start of the pandemic]. I did manage to get a West Country sailing trip, but I am longing to get going again. My last cruise was a winter trip to Barbados. It was brilliant to feel the weather getting better each day and when we finally reached the other side – suddenly it’s summer. The passengers were great and laughed at the jokes during my talks. Then there’s the food and drinks – that’s what I enjoy about the cruise experience. * John Sergeant will appear on Ambassador Cruise Line’s themed sailing, British Broadcasting Legends, alongside Floella Benjamin, Jan Leeming and other household names. The seven-night Autumn Fjordland cruise departs on October 16 from Tilbury and is priced from £629. Read more celebrity interviews at cruise-international.com

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PICTURES: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/PICTORIAL PRESS LTD; SHUTTERSTOCK/AUDIO UND WERBUNG/ASHARKYU; GEOFF PUGH

For several months I travelled across the States. I met two fellow students and one of them owned a station wagon. We went from coast to coast, with troubled times in the southern states where racial tension was rising, and delightful interludes of conventional sightseeing, including an awe-inspiring visit to the Grand Canyon. On one of my last days back with the family who had provided me with the job and let me stay at their home in Alexandria, I went to the March on Washington in August 1963, and heard the best political speech of my life: I was in the crowd when Martin Luther King made his ‘I have a dream’ speech, and I often recall that day and how the hairs went up on the back of my neck.

Sea Blue. Save Loot. 20% OFF ALL SAILINGS AND $100 ON YOUR BAR TAB.

Our best deal of the year has been extended, but it’s only sailing your way for a limited time. Book any voyage on any ship and you’ll get 20% off and an extra $100 toward your prepaid Bar Tab. And if you plan ahead, you’ll get an extra 10% off when you book with our Pay-in-Full Discount program. Swap cold, dark days for endless views, azure horizons, and moonlit moments by voyaging with Valiant Lady from Portsmouth, UK beginning in March, to islands and in cities throughout Spain, Portugal, Belgium, and the Canary Islands. With late-night and overnight stays in Málaga, Palma de Mallorca, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Lisbon, and Zeebrugge, you’ll have the opportunity to experience Europe come vibrantly alive at night and see it wake gently in the morning. As always, every sailing includes over $600 in valuable extras, like dining at 20+ eateries, all gratuities, free WiFi, essential drinks, and unlimited group fitness classes.

“Scarlet Lady is not your typical cruise ship. From the moment you board, the ship sets the mood...And that feeling of Virgin being one step ahead of your expectations continues all the way round the ship.” – Cruise Critic

B O O K N O W AT V I R G I N V OYA G E S .C O M Please visit virginvoyages.com/promotions-terms-and-conditions for full Terms & Conditions.

See what others don’t Antarctica 2023 For 70 years Swan Hellenic has been known for creating unique, cultural expedition cruises for those who want to explore more and dive a little deeper.

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