Cruise International Spring 2022 by The Chelsea Magazine Company

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MAY/JUNE 2022 | £5.25

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END Y WEEK A LUXUR EY WITH IN JERS TARRED IN-S MICHEL OR TWO F DINING

FORCE of NATURE EXPLORE THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS IN STYLE

SUSAN CALMAN

Behind the scenes of hit travel TV show

River RISING A M U S T- R E A D G U I D E F O R YO U R F I R S T R I V E R C RU I S E

ATUL KOCHHAR RECIPES ■ FAMILY CRUISES ■ RED SEA PARIS IN SPRING ■ NORTHERN LIGHTS ■ NEW SHIPS

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BOOK BY 31 MAY 2022 AND ENJOY: Up to $1,000 per suite onboard spend

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ALL-INCLUSIVE | ULTRA-LUXURY | GREECE & TURKEY Explore great cities such as Athens, Istanbul and Venice, stroll timeless island villages hugging tiny harbours on Mykonos, Spetses and the shining white town of Thira cresting the cliﬀs of Santorini. Call into the less visited Turkish ports of Bozcaada or Cesme. Discover fascinating UNESCO world heritage sites such as Delphi and Olympia on the Peloponnese and walk in the steps of the ancients

presents

at a special evening at Ephesus. Go shopping in a Greek or Turkish market and learn about local produce with Seabourn’s executive chef as your guide, enjoy a complimentary Marina day with watersports in Spetses or Nydri.

JUST A FEW OF OUR EXTRAORDINARY CRUISES 7-night Classic Greek Isles & Ephesus

7-night Greek Isles & Turquoise Coast

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24 Jul*; 21 Aug; 18 Sep; 16*, 30* Oct 2022 | Seabourn Encore (Piraeus) Athens; Patmos; Crete; Kusadasi (Ephesus); Mykonos; Skiathos; Bozcaada; Istanbul

3, 31* Jul; 28 Aug; 25 Sep; 23* Oct; 6* Nov 2022 | Seabourn Encore Istanbul; Nisos Limnos; Cesme; Bodrum; Rhodes; Santorini, Spetses; (Piraeus) Athens

10 Jul 2022 Seabourn Encore (Piraeus) Athens; Monemvasia; Katakolon (Olympia); Nydri; Brindisi (Lecce); Dubrovnik; Zadar; Venice

Fly/cruise from £3,799*pp Seabourn’s Classical Concert at Ephesus *Lead fare based on 24/7, 16 & 30/10 2022

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All dining venues are complimentary, guests may dine where, when and with whom they wish

A Spectacular Evening at Ephesus Wednesday 10th August 2022 Internationally acclaimed singing sensation Jonathan Antoine will appear for one night only at the ancient amphitheatre at Ephesus, accompanied by pianist and Steinway Artist Dominic Ferris for this once-in-a-lifetime experience exclusive to Seabourn.

Experience this spectacular ‘Seabourn Moment’ when you book our:

7-night Ephesus & Greek Island Gems 7th August 2022 Fly UK/Athens; Board Seabourn Encore in Piraeus; Agios Nikolaos (Crete); Patmos; Kusadasi (Ephesus) Enjoy a ‘Spectacular Evening at Ephesus’; Cesme (Turkey); Mykonos; Skiathos; Piraeus. Fly Athens/UK.

Fly/cruise in a veranda suite from £3,499pp

Also available as a 14-night combination ﬂy/cruise from £6,299pp

Terms & Conditions: Featured prices are per guest based on double occupancy. Prices are inclusive of Cruise Fare, Taxes, Fees & Port Expenses. Prices are in Pounds Sterling. All savings amounts are included in the prices shown. Shipboard Credit offers are in U.S. dollars and are non-refundable, non-transferable, have no cash value, expire at the end of the cruise, may not be used in the casino and are not combinable with other promotional shipboard credit offers. Shipboard credit offer is based on promo Z**. Europe Inclusive Economy Class Air offer is subject to availability, valid only for guests residing in the United Kingdom and applicable to the first and second guests sharing a Suite only. Promotional Inclusive Business Class Air may be available from £99 each way per guest for select Europe sailings. In the event that neither promotional Economy nor Business Class Air are available (at the sole discretion of Seabourn) or for guests not wishing to utilise the promotional air offer, a cruise credit in the amount of £300 per guest on select Europe sailings will be applied to the booking amount. Promotional air offers include complimentary transfers between the airport and ship and in case of an airline delay or cancellation, next port protection. If promotional air flight(s) and/or cruise schedule(s) force an overnight, a complimentary hotel night is included. Promotional Economy Class Air offer is based on promo code JE and promotional Business Class Air offer is based on promo code JB. All offers are capacity controlled and may be modified or withdrawn at any time without prior notice. Other restrictions may apply. Seabourn reserves the right to correct errors. Ships' registry: Bahamas. ©2022 Seabourn.

EDITOR’S LETTER

PICTURES: VIACOM/CHANNEL 5/LIVIA HUGHES; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/ EVGENIY BILETSKIY; ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/SILVAN BACHMANN

Welcome

Have you been watching Cruising with Susan Calman? I’ve loved following Susan’s travels through the Canary Islands and the Med over the past few weeks, so it was a treat to chat to her about what really goes on behind the scenes when filming the Channel 5 show. She was every bit as engaging and enthusiastic as she comes across on screen, and it’s great to have such a passionate ambassador flying the flag for cruise (page 98). It seems she’s not the only one, as many of you have been getting back on the water too. I recently returned from a weekend in Budapest, visiting various river cruise ships and getting a taste of life on the Danube. It was so refreshing to go away without having to book expensive tests or fill out endless forms – all I needed was a passport and a suitcase and off I went, just like old times! If you’re contemplating a river cruise this summer, check out our must-read advice from the industry’s best experts before you book (page 78). You might want to plan further ahead for some of the other adventures in this issue. We travel to the far north coast of Norway for a mesmerising journey above the Arctic Circle to witness the Northern Lights – and they are every bit as spectacular as promised (page 40). Then we’re back in bucket-list territory on a luxury trip to the Galapagos Islands to swim with sea lions and meet giant tortoises – I guarantee you’ll feel jealousy and joy in equal measure (page 60). Remember, if you have a cruise booked, send a picture of yourself on board to info@cruise-international.com and it could be published in our next issue.

40 Subscriptions Tel: +44 (0)1858 438 749 Email: cruise@subscription.co.uk Online: www.subscription.co.uk/chelsea/help Post: Cruise International, Subscriptions Department, Tower House, Sovereign Park, Lathkill Street, Market Harborough, LE16 9EF

Katie McGonagle, Editor katie.mcgonagle@chelseamagazines.com

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The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ. Tel: 020 7349 3700. Email: info@cruise-international.com. Website: www.cruise-international.com EDITORIAL Editor Katie McGonagle Art Director Andrea Lynch Sub-Editor David Powning Contributors Jane Archer, Joanna Booth, Sue Bryant, Zoey Goto, Sara Macefield, Frances Marcellin, Jeannine Williamson DIGITAL Digital Product Manager Ben Iskander Digital Editor Claire Benktander Digital Marketing Assistant Olivia Matthew ADVERTISING Group Director of Sales Catherine Chapman Sales Manager Warren Wilkinson PUBLISHING Publisher Simon Temlett Managing Director James Dobson Chief Financial Officer Vicki Gavin Chairman Paul Dobson NEWS DISTRIBUTION News Trade (UK and Rest of World): Seymour International Ltd., 2 East Poultry Avenue, London, EC1A 9PT CRUISE INTERNATIONAL (Print ISSN 1758-2326) (Online ISSN 2396-9237) is published bi-monthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

M AY/J U N E 2022 |

T H E U LT I M AT E

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Book before the 20th May 2022 to receive 15% reduced fares and ALL 3 OLife Choice amenities – Shore Excursions, Beverage Package and Shipboard Credit, for FREE!

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R A M BL A S & T H E R I V I E R A S ROME TO BARCELONA 7 days | 26 September 2022 – RIVIERA CATEGORIES AND OLIFE CHOICE FARES PER GUEST FROM* VERANDA

£2,426

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DA Z Z L I NG M E DI T E R R A N E A N ROME TO MONTE CARLO 11 days | 24 October 2022 – RIVIERA CATEGORIES AND OLIFE CHOICE FARES PER GUEST FROM* VERANDA

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Airfare* plus all three:

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F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N O N A D D I T I O N A L S A I L I N G S I N T H E U LT I M AT E S A L E C A L L 0 3 4 5 5 0 5 19 2 0 , V I S I T O C E A N I AC R U I S E S . C O M O R C O N TAC T YO U R T R AV E L A G E N T TERMS & CONDITIONS: *OLife Ultimate promotion is available on select voyages and open for select categories. OLife Ultimate promotion and fares are valid on new bookings until 20th May 2022. Additional Terms and Conditions may apply. Complete Terms and Conditions may be found at OceaniaCruises.com/terms or in the Guest Ticket Contract.

CONTENTS

18 FEATURES 26 New Ships

Latest launches by Virgin Voyages, Silversea and Arena River Cruises

34 Seine in Spring

Set sail on Viking’s new longship for a laid-back cruise from Paris

40 Northern Lights

70 REGULARS 6

Journey above the Arctic Circle with Norway’s new line, Havila Voyages

50 Family Cruises

Bring the kids on board with the best family holidays on the water

60 Galapagos Islands

See this unique region in style on Silversea’s new ultra-luxury ship

Hot Spot

Enjoy the finer things in life with a wine and art stay in Bordeaux

68 City Guide

Head to the home of the blues on a Mississippi cruise from Memphis

On Our Radar

Explore the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and more in San Francisco

11 Cruise News

The latest travel updates, cruise line programmes and new ships

18 Style

Give your holiday wardrobe a lift with our pick of must-have items

19 Cruise Well

Yoga-themed sailings, sleep aids and all-natural spa and skincare

20 Recipes

70 Red Sea

Soak up sunshine and sightseeing on an Egypt and Jordan adventure

78 River Cruise Tips

Never been on a river cruise? Read our essential guide before you book

90 Sustainable Ships

Eco-friendly technology is making cruise ships cleaner than ever

ON THE COVER

Get a sneak peek at Atul Kochhar’s latest book release, Curry Everyday

PICTURES: ADRIANO BARIOLI; ALEXANDRE SATTLER; SHUTTERSTOCK/VICHIE81; MIKE COOPER

96 Ask the Experts

Find the answers to your biggest cruise questions from our panel

98 Celebrity Travels

Behind the scenes of Channel 5’s Cruising with Susan Calman

SHUTTERSTOCK/VLAD61

© The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd 2022 All rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The information in CRUISE INTERNATIONAL has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by contributors to CRUISE INTERNATIONAL are not necessarily those of the publisher. For up to date travel advice, always check fco.gov.uk before you go.

Printed in England by William Gibbons, West Midlands. Origination by All Points Media www.allpointsmedia.co.uk CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

M AY/J U N E 2022 |

Bordeaux, France

France is the darling of river cruising right now, with more ships meandering along its waterways this year than ever before. They all offer a feast for the mind and body with rich local foods and fine French wines to enjoy along the way, but for true oenophiles, it has to be Bordeaux. This is the gateway not only to the Garonne River, on whose banks it sits, but also to the rolling vineyards, historic chateaux and tiny medieval villages along the Gironde and Dordogne. In fact, wine is so fundamental to the region’s character that there’s even a huge museum complex devoted to the culture, heritage and understanding of wine. Cité du Vin offers much more than just a tasting or two, delving deep into how winemakers have shaped not only this region – home of famous names like Rothschild and Margaux – but also other wine hot spots around the world. This summer, it hosts an art exhibition that runs until August 28 exploring how Picasso depicted wine in his works, making it the perfect starting point for a true epicurean escape. >> Turn to page 34 for more on French river cruising

PICTURE: HEMIS/AWL IMAGES/PHILIPPE ROY

HOT SPOT

San Francisco, the US The City by the Bay has always loomed large in travellers’ imaginations, courtesy of its landmark Golden Gate Bridge, fantastically diverse neighbourhoods, LGBTQ+ culture and, of course, our endless fascination with the prison island of Alcatraz. Yet it’s rising through the ranks of key US cruise ports too, with a record 127 ships calling here in 2022. Visitors will find a lot has changed in the city over the past couple of years, with more than 1,000 new al fresco restaurants, hundreds of miles of new hiking and cycling paths plus acres more outdoor space. The team behind the High Line in New York has turned its attention to the West Coast by redeveloping a new parkland at the Presidio Tunnel Tops, offering views of both the city and the bridge, along with a kids’ campfire circle and picnic grounds to enjoy in this urban oasis. Then there’s the 150-foot-high SkyStar Wheel, added in 2020 to mark Golden Gate Park’s 150th anniversary and boasting unparalleled views over the Pacific. Add to that its thriving arts scene, Michelin-starred dining and more pedestrian-friendly developments making it easier to get around, and San Francisco is an ideal spot to explore on a pre-cruise stay. >> Turn to page 68 for a guide to the US city of Memphis

PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/CANADASTOCK

ON OUR RADAR

Orkney Cruise Capital of the UK

The Old Man of Hoy, Orkney stands at 449-foot (137m) high and is one of the highest sea stacks in the United Kingdom.

Contact: Paul.Olvhoj@orkney.gov.uk

Cruise News SHIPS / EVENTS / DESTINATIONS

ENCHANTED PRINCESS SET FOR SOUTHAMPTON Princess Cruises is bringing Enchanted Princess (right) to the UK in summer 2022, making it the line’s fourth ship based in Southampton this year. The vessel, which joined the ﬂeet in November 2021, will homeport there alongside Sky Princess, Emerald Princess and Island Princess. It will sail 13 voyages of four to 14 nights to the Canary Islands, Mediterranean, Scandinavia, Norway and Iceland. Stuart Allison, Princess Cruises’ senior vice-president for Asia Paciﬁc, UK and Europe, said: “We are delighted to have two of our newest ships in the UK this summer. Bringing Enchanted Princess to Southampton is testament to the UK cruise market.” Princess also plans to mark the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee

on its Southampton-based ships. From June 2-5, it will show live coverage of the Trooping of the Colour, a thanksgiving service at Westminster Abbey and the Jubilee Party. Guests can tuck into a Royal Afternoon Tea and British-themed dinner, and those on Sky Princess will enjoy a Royal Variety Show-style performance and a talk from Grant Harrold, former butler to the Prince of Wales (princess.com).

VOLENDAM HELPS UKRAINE

PICTURES: MICHEL VERDURE; UNIWORLD RIVER CRUISES

UNIWORLD UNVEILS EPIC RIVER CRUISE Luxury river cruise line Uniworld has launched a 43-day voyage across Egypt, India and southeast Asia on sale exclusively in the UK. The boutique river cruise line will bring together four countries, three ‘super ships’ and 21 Unesco World Heritage Sites in one ‘exotic rivers’ adventure departing in January 2023. It combines river cruising and luxury touring across Egypt and the Nile, India’s Golden Triangle and the Ganges, and a sailing along the Mekong through Vietnam and Cambodia. UK managing director Chris Townson said: “We are excited to announce our ‘World’s Most Exotic River and Land Journey’. It reﬂects the trend of customers booking back-to-back river cruises.” The journey departs on January 7, 2023, from £18,885 per person (£16,995 if booked before May 31), including ﬂights (uniworld.com). CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

Holland America Line is basing its ship, Volendam, in Rotterdam for the next three months to provide a temporary home for up to 1,500 people fleeing from the conflict in Ukraine. Gus Antorcha, president of Holland America Line, said: “We are in a unique position to accommodate the immediate need for food and housing, so we felt it was very important to work with the City of Rotterdam and charter this ship. “Our company was founded in Rotterdam around the mission of helping immigrants find a better life. So today we’re proud to be a small part of a similar mission for Ukrainians who have tragically been displaced.” Volendam was originally scheduled to resume sailings on May 15 but will now return to service on July 3. The company has also launched a $1 million emergency assistance fund for Ukrainian staff (hollandamerica.com).

M AY/J U N E 2022 |

AZZURR A SETS SAIL Emerald Cruises’ long-awaited superyacht Emerald Azzurra has taken to the waves with its first guests on board. The 100-passenger yacht departed on its maiden voyage from Aqaba in Jordan in March and will spend the summer sailing in the Med and Adriatic, taking in Kotor in Montenegro, Sarande in Albania, Corfu, Kefalonia and a transit of the Corinth Canal. It will be joined by sister vessel Emerald Sakara in February 2023 in the Seychelles, Black Sea and Middle East, marking a new venture into ocean cruising for the river line (emeraldcruises.co.uk).

KATY PERRY NAMED

NCL GODMOTHER

Pop star and host of American Idol Katy Perry (above, left) has been named godmother of Norwegian Cruise Line’s latest ship, Norwegian Prima. The star will perform at the christening in Reykjavik on August 27 – the first time the Icelandic capital has hosted a ship naming – prior to Prima’s maiden voyage. “We are so excited to welcome Katy Perry, and proud that she will be part of the Norwegian Cruise Line family,” said Harry Sommer, president and chief executive of NCL. Perry said cruising was her “favourite” type of holiday. She added: “Every morning you wake up, you get

to experience an incredible new view.” Norwegian Prima will sail from Southampton to northern Europe, from New York to Bermuda and from Galveston, Texas, to the Caribbean in its maiden season. Seabourn has also announced mountaineer and polar explorer Alison Levine (above, right) as godmother of expedition vessel Seabourn Venture, which launches in July. Levine captained the first American Women’s Everest Expedition in 2022, worked on Arnold Schwarzenegger’s California governor campaign, wrote a New York Times bestseller and is a recipient of the Ellis Island Medal of Honour.

SCENIC’S PENGUIN PAIRS Scenic has added an exclusive helicopter excursion visiting the remote Snow Hill Island in Antarctica to see 5,000 breeding pairs of emperor penguins. The penguin colony, set on an island only accessible by helicopter, is surrounded by soaring icebergs and was not discovered until the 1990s. Guests on Scenic Eclipse’s 19-day Antarctica & The Weddell Sea itinerary departing December 19 will be among the first to take the excursion, timed to coincide with the end of the breeding season to see the penguins with their down-covered chicks. The voyage includes a chance to see elephant seals, plus orca, minke and humpback whales (scenic.co.uk). 12

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CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

CRUISE NEWS

NAVIGATING NEW ZEALAND New Zealand-based cruise line Heritage Expeditions is marking the reopening of the country’s borders with the addition of three new voyages visiting scenic and remote spots around its islands. Highlights include the bubbling mud pools of Rotorua (right), Milford and Doubtful Sounds, Abel Tasman National Park, and the wildliferich Stewart and Ulva islands where visitors can spot kiwi, rare Hector’s dolphins, native fur seals and penguins. Prices for the voyages start at $4,495 per person cruise-only, including a $500 flight credit (heritage-expeditions.com).

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/ALEXANDER HAFEMANN; STEVE DUNLOP; SHUTTERSTOCK/FAREC; POMPEI LUCA

P&O CRUISES’ INSTA ISLANDS P&O Cruises has launched a summer 2024 programme including ‘Instagram’ cruises to Ibiza, Mykonos and Amsterdam. The range offers popular island itineraries, the scenic Norwegian fjords and extended time in destinations to enjoy new onshore experiences. “This programme of holidays, more than ever before, maximises the time in port to ensure our guests can see and experience the very best of each destination at their own pace,” said P&O Cruises president Paul Ludlow. New shore excursions include visits to beach clubs in Ibiza, off-the-beaten track vineyards and adrenaline-pumping activities (pocruises.com).

CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

CELEBRITY BEYOND TAKES TO THE WAVES Celebrity Cruises has taken delivery of new ship Celebrity Beyond (above), the third and most luxurious in the fleet’s Edge series, which departs on its maiden voyage from Southampton. President and chief executive Lisa Lutoff-Perlo paid tribute to the thousands of people involved in construction at the Chantiers de l’Atlantique shipyard in SaintNazaire, France, the yard’s first in-person delivery ceremony since the pandemic. She said: “Beyond speaks

to the growing trend of people seeking new luxury experiences that are personalised, effortless and meaningful. We are seeing a continued desire to travel as business steadily increases, and we see Beyond leading the cruise industry into the next era of luxury.” Celebrity Beyond’s maiden voyage departs from Southampton on April 27, followed by Mediterranean and Greek isles itineraries until October, when it transfers to the Caribbean (celebritycruises.com).

M AY/J U N E 2022 |

OCEANIA

ADDS SOLO STATEROOMS

AMAWATERWAYS

TIPS 2022 BESTSELLERS AmaWaterways is tipping French river cruises, Floriade-inspired garden trips and the Nile as its most popular sailings in 2022. The line has increased capacity in France with five ships, a new Impressions of the Seine & Paris itinerary (above) and easier back-toback sailings for those who want to link multiple cruises. International horticulture exhibition Floriade Expo, which runs until October 9, has also boosted interest in the Rhine and Dutch and Belgian waterways. UK managing director Jamie Loizou said: “France is selling well because it’s a place where people feel very comfortable and confident, and the cruise is all in one country. The Rhine is really popular, driven by Floriade, while the Mekong is taking off and Egypt has been a revelation. “Normally people would have booked a seven-night cruise, but they’re now booking for longer with a pre or post-cruise stay, or both.” AmaWaterways has also confirmed plans to expand into South America with a ship on Colombia’s remote Magdalena River in 2024 (amawaterways.co.uk).

Oceania Cruises is set to expand capacity for solo travellers by adding more single cabins on four of its ships. The company will increase the number of such cabins on Regatta, Nautica, Insignia and Sirena by October 1, 2022, with each featuring 14 Solo Oceanview Staterooms (below) on deck six. President and chief executive Howard Sherman said: “These new singleoccupancy staterooms are ideal for guests seeking the joy of travelling solo while experiencing all the comfort, cuisine and destination expertise Oceania Cruises is renowned for.” (oceaniacruises.com)

FOODIE CRUISE THROUGH CROATIA Sail Croatia has introduced a private yacht itinerary linking up some of the best restaurants along the Dalmatian coast. The seven-night holiday departs from Split and takes in sought-after restaurants in Hvar, the Pakleni Islands, Vrboska and Makarska, although the route can be tailored to each group by the local skipper. Grant Seuren, Sail Croatia director, said: “We can’t wait for guests to sample our new fine-dining route, as all restaurants have been hand-picked for their glowing accolades or tales of premium foodie experiences from our skippers and past customers. Guests are guaranteed a unique insider’s guide to gourmet dining in Croatia.” The private experience is on board a yacht holding six to 10 people, and is priced from €387 per person including airport transfers, insurance and Wi-Fi (sail-croatia.com). 14

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CRUISE NEWS

FRED OLSEN UNVEILS AFRICA EPIC Seeing lemurs in Madagascar, meeting dabbawalas in Mumbai and walking on white-sand beaches in the Maldives are among highlights of Fred Olsen Cruise Lines’ new 93-night sailing. The ‘grand voyage’, Intrepid Beauty of Africa & the Indian Ocean, will depart Southampton in November 2023, travelling via Egypt and Oman to India, the Seychelles, Tanzania, South Africa, Namibia, Senegal, the Canary Islands and Madeira before returning to the UK. Martin Lister, head of itinerary planning and destination experience, said: “This sailing is a real adventure, and working closely with Mr Olsen Jnr himself, we have curated the itinerary to allow guests to have real, immersive experiences ashore, whether that’s visiting spice plantations or helping dabawallas deliver tiffin boxes in Mumbai, walking the dunes of the world’s oldest desert in Namibia, or taking in the cultures and traditions of destinations away from the beaten tourist track.” (fredolsencruises.com)

SWAN HELLENIC TO DEBUT DIANA

PICYURES: MIKE LOUAGIE; MICHEL VERDURE; PIXABAY/STUDIO KLICK; MARTIN BIANCO

REGENT ROLLS OUT DESIGN TOURS Regent Seven Seas Cruises and sister brand Oceania Cruises have added two shore excursion programmes focusing on eco-friendly and architecture tours. The new ranges – dubbed Eco-Connect and Behind the Design on Regent, or Go Green and Beyond Blueprints on Oceania – take guests to see conservation efforts in action and go behind the scenes of architectural landmarks. The eco range comprises more than 150 tours worldwide, including to an organic vineyard in Bordeaux, a sloth sanctuary in Costa Rica and a national park in Hue, Vietnam. Architecture tours are available in 10 European locations, including the Royal Library and Blue Planet aquarium in Copenhagen (above) and the Equinor office and Edvard Munch museum Munchmuseet in Oslo. Regent’s president and chief executive, Jason Montague, said: “Guests love the service on our luxury fleet, but their primary reason for travel is to discover and explore. That’s why our destinations team has worked tirelessly, creating unique and immersive ways to explore destinations with fresh perspectives.” (rssc.com) CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

Swan Hellenic has announced the name of its third expedition ship, set to launch in early 2023 in the Med. Diana will be the line’s largest ship to date, holding 192 guests in 96 staterooms and suites, most with balconies, alongside 141 crew. It will feature a swimming pool, spa and sauna, library, expedition laboratory and observation lounge to host lectures from the expert team on board. The ship has a diesel-electric hybrid engine, Polar Class 6 ice-strengthened hull, and air conditioning with UV sanitisation systems, and is being built at the Helsinki shipyard. Swan Hellenic recently delayed the launch of its second ship, Vega, which will now join sister vessel Minerva (below) in September (swanhellenic.com).

M AY/J U N E 2022 |

VIVA ONE’S VOYAGE

SEABOURN ENCORE

GETS CLASSICAL IN TURKEY Seabourn has returned to Turkey for the first time since 2016 and is due to hold a one-off musical event among the ruins of Ephesus (above) in August. Seabourn Encore started sailings in the eastern Mediterranean in April with seven-day voyages from Athens to Istanbul, and will remain in the region until November, calling at ports in Greece, Turkey, Croatia and Israel. The line’s return to Turkey includes visits to Cesme, Bodrum and Kusadasi, along with an Evening at Ephesus, a private classical concert under the stars at the Unesco-listed site, complimentary for those on the August 7 departure. The performance will feature classical singer Jonathan Antoine – who at 17 won fame as a finalist on Britain’s Got Talent and became the youngest tenor to have a number-one-selling classical album – alongside one of the UK’s leading pianists and Steinway ambassador, Dominic Ferris (seabourn.com).

German cruise line Viva Cruises has launched its first new-build ship, Viva One. The vessel (below) was christened in April in its home port of Dusseldorf, where the company is based, and is due to operate five and sevennight all-inclusive voyages along the Rhine and Moselle in 2022 and 2023. The ship holds 176 guests in 88 cabins and suites, has two restaurants, a sun deck and spa, plus hybrid technology and solar cells to reduce energy consumption. Andrea Kruse, chief operating officer, said: “After lots of hard work and a couple of uncertain years, we are thrilled to have launched our first-ever new-build ship. Viva One has been carefully designed using Viva Cruises’ ethos and environmentally friendly technology. “We are truly looking forward to welcoming British people on our new ship – they will have a whole new river cruise experience like never before.” (viva-cruises.com)

MSC HEADS FOR FJORDS MSC Cruises has opened sales for the inaugural season of MSC Euribia (left), which will be based in northern Europe from next summer. It will begin sailing from Kiel in Germany in June 2023, becoming the second ship in the fleet to be powered by liquefied natural gas (LNG) and including a host of measures reducing its impact on the environment. The ship will feature exclusive artwork following an international competition to create a design for the ship’s hull, with Northumberlandbased graphic artist Daniel Weatheritt among the finalists. It will sail to the Norwegian fjords calling at Copenhagen in Denmark, and Hellesylt, Alesund and Flaam in Norway (msccruises.co.uk). 16

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CRUISE NEWS

SMALL SAILINGS IN SVALBARD A small-ship expedition cruise line has unveiled ‘micro-cruises’ for just 12 guests travelling to the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard. Secret Atlas offers the smallest group sizes in the Arctic and Antarctica but the highest guideto-guest ratio, with one expert leader for every six passengers. The cruises take place on icestrengthened, purpose-built vessels, calling at smaller and more remote ports. Among the new itineraries is a 10-day expedition, Natural Wonders of Svalbard, which departs from Longyearbyen between May and August to make the most of the midnight sun. Guests can spot polar bears, walruses, whales, Arctic foxes and reindeer. Prices start at £6,800 per person full-board with shared facilities. Amateur photographers can join a nine-day Natural Wonders of Svalbard Photo Tour in May 2023, led by wildlife photographer Chase Teron, from £7,000 per person (secretatlastravel.com).

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/MEHMET YASA; TOM JASNY; MSC CRUISES; BERNARD BIGER;

PASSPORT WARNING The UK Passport Office has issued a warning to holidaymakers in need of updated travel documents to expect a 10-week turnaround time on applications. The government department said the longer processing time was a result of more than 5 million people delaying passport renewals during the pandemic, leading to a pre-summer surge. Abi Tierney, director general of HM Passport Office, said: “Now that international travel has resumed, we know people will be looking at going away on holiday, and yet many are leaving applying for a passport too late. “The summer holidays are fast approaching so if you need a new passport, we urge you to apply now. Our dedicated staff are working tirelessly to ensure that passport applications are processed as quickly as possible.”

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CLOSER TO UTOPIA Royal Caribbean International has revealed the name of the latest addition to its fleet, set to begin sailing in spring 2024. Utopia of the Seas will be the sixth Oasis-class vessel and is under construction at the Chantiers de l’Atlantique shipyard in Saint-Nazaire, France. It will be the second ship in the fleet to be powered by the cleaner fuel, liquefied natural gas, once sister vessel Icon of the Seas debuts in autumn 2023. President and chief executive Michael Bayley said: “Vacationers can look forward to the signature combination of Royal Caribbean experiences and many brand-new adventures.” (royalcaribbean.com) M AY/J U N E 2022 |

CRUISE STYLE

SHINY DANCER Let Elton John inspire you with these 1398 Square Sunglasses, which reference the iconic, oversized frames worn by the British singer in the 1970s and ‘80s. They will add glam to every outfit and are available in three styles: blackout, brush stroke (pictured) and bone (£375, cutlerandgross.com).

BRONZE BOOST Get a headstart on your holiday glow with this powder-based Vasanti mineral bronzer, designed to suit all skin tones. It’s available in three shades to boost your natural complexion and give it a healthy sheen. Choose from Sunkissed, Brazilian Tan or Sun Peach Glow (£26, vasanticosmetics.co.uk).

SHOPPING FLOWER POWER We love the pop of colour that this new reversible, multi-way Bougainvillea swimwear will bring to your poolside attire, with numerous ways to mix up your look. It’s part of the summer collection from British brand Tucca Swim and inspired by the Med’s bright blooms. The sisters behind the brand, Chloe and Helaina Thomas, say: “You can’t go anywhere in the Med without seeing that tropical punch of colour of the bougainvillaea flower. We wanted to replicate this in our vibrant swimwear designs.” (available sizes 6-16, from £49; tuccaswim.co.uk). 18

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Dress to impress If you want light summer staples that work by day and by night, look no further than this round-neck woven swing dress from Live Unlimited London. Pair with strappy sandals for sunset drinks on deck or with trainers for city sightseeing. With a fuss-free T-shirt bodice and swing-style skirt, it flatters every figure (available sizes 12-28, £48, liveunlimitedlondon.com).

LISTEN UP Don’t fiddle around on your next flight with in-ear buds that barely block out the engines – Groov-e’s Zen wireless headphones have active noise cancelling so you can keep up with your podcasts, music or in-flight movies without interference. They offer Bluetooth connectivity, 10 hours’ playback and have a built-in mic and 3.5mm headphone jack (£49.99, from Tesco, Currys, The Range and Robert Dyas).

PICTURES: ADRIANO BARIOLI; MIKE STEVENSON

BRIGHTEN UP YOUR HOLIDAY FASHION WITH OUR MOST COLOURFUL MUST-PACK ITEMS

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H E A LT H & W E L L B E I N G

CRUISE WELL THE LATEST HEALTH AND WELLBEING NEWS FROM AROUND THE CRUISE WORLD

Feeling good

SLEEP TIGHT Getting a good night’s sleep can be tricky at the best of times, but especially when you’re travelling and a new time zone or unfamiliar environment can throw your sleep cycle even further off track. With that in mind, the Langham Hospitality Group – which runs The Langham Hotels and Resorts, Cordis Hotels and the Chuan Spa brand – has teamed up with the World Sleep Society to create the programme Sleep Matters by Chuan. Expect a turndown kit with herbal tea, earplugs and cushioned sleep masks; a menu of wellness items, including a yoga mat, weighted blanket, pillow menu, whitenoise machine and lavender bath products; plus a Spotify playlist to aid relaxation. (langhamhotels.com)

If you’re a spa-at-sea devotee, check out the new category of AquaClass staterooms on Celebrity Cruises’ new ship, Celebrity Beyond. They’re located near the spa and include verandas that feel like you’re walking right to the water’s edge, along with exclusive access to healthy restaurant Blu, a free fitness pass, spa concierge, special rates on more than 120 treatments and an in-room yoga mat (celebritycruises.com).

Moss have

Many of us have uncovered treasures hailing from closer to home over the past couple of years, and this spa brand, inspired by the wild beauty of Ireland and the British Isles, is no exception. Moss of the Isles is a vegan body and skincare brand founded on the belief that nature offers the best remedies, bringing together essential oils and natural extracts. Its products have been featured in some of the best spas and hotels around the world, including a recent partnership with The Berkeley in London. Choose from bath salts, body oils and salt scrubs to get your skin holiday-ready (from £25, mossoftheisles.com).

PICTURES: LORNA FITZSIMONS; SHUTTERSTOCK/NETFALLS REMY MUSSER

SUN SALUTATIONS ON DECK Specialist cruise line Star Clippers has introduced a range of yoga-themed sailings this summer, so you can try downward dog by the dock or practise your warrior pose up on deck. The range of 14 yoga-themed cruises will take place on tall ship Star Clipper between April and December 2022, featuring professional yoga instructors leading sessions. General manager Fay McCormack says: “The CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

mental and physical wellbeing of our guests while on board remains an absolute priority, and we are delighted to offer this service.” Itineraries will feature ashtanga yoga classes each morning with a second session at sunset, meditation, lectures on yoga philosophy and advice for continuing the practice at home. They will sail from Athens, Rome and Cannes, priced from £1,760 per person (starclippers.co.uk). M AY/J U N E 2022 |

FEAST ON

flavour

Michelin-starred chef and restaurateur Atul Kochhar picks out quick-cook vegetarian dishes from new book Curry Everyday, featuring recipes from India to the Far East, Africa and beyond 20

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RECIPES

CHERMOUL A CAULIFLOWER chermoula qarnabit SERVES 4 (AS A SHARING DISH)

Fresh herbs, garlic, lemon juice and warming spices are what you’d expect to find in a traditional chermoula sauce, popular in Morocco and throughout North Africa. In this recipe, however, I’ve created a honey-sweetened version and omitted chilli powder, which you might expect – I like to let the magic of garlic, lemon and honey come through. Chermoula is typically served with meat or seafood, but is a perfect accompaniment for a whole roasted cauliflower. INGREDIENTS 1 large head of cauliflower, trimmed and left whole Sea salt For the chermoula sauce: 3 garlic cloves, crushed 4 tbsp olive oil 4 tbsp runny honey 1 tbsp ground toasted cumin seeds 1 tbsp smoked paprika

½ tsp ground black pepper Finely grated zest of 1 large lemon 4 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice 30-40g fresh coriander leaves, chopped Slivered almonds, toasted, to garnish Lettuce leaves on the side, to garnish

METHOD

PICTURES: MIKE COOPER

l Preheat

the oven to 200C (fan 180C, gas 6) and line a roasting pan with baking paper, making sure the paper comes up the side of the pan. l To make the sauce, combine the garlic, olive oil, honey, ground cumin seeds, paprika, black pepper, lemon zest and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Whisk in the lemon juice, then add about three-quarters of the coriander leaves. l Place the cauliflower upside down in the bowl and spoon over the chermoula sauce. Use your hands to rub the sauce all over the cauliflower, top and bottom, making sure it goes between the florets. Push any leftover sauce into the gap between the central core and florets on the bottom – you don’t want to lose any of that flavour. l Transfer the cauliflower, right side up, to the roasting pan. Pour over any sauce remaining in the bowl and cover with foil, pressing the foil around the cauliflower. Place in the oven and roast for 30 minutes. l Uncover the pan and continue roasting for a further 25 minutes, or until the cauliflower is tender and slightly charred. You should be able to slide a knife into the core easily. Sprinkle with the remaining coriander leaves and serve. CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

JACKFRUIT SATAY nongka sate MAKES 8 SKE WERS

Jackfruit doesn’t have much flavour, so I marinate it in a well-balanced satay paste before cooking. My version has the sourness of tamarind and sweetness from sugar and sweet soy sauce to balance the chillies’ heat. There is a lot of preparation, but it can be done in advance and the cooking is quick and easy. I’ve given you the option of grilling or barbecuing the skewers; I like them cooked on a barbecue – satays come alive when cooked over charcoal. INGREDIENTS 2 x 400g cans jackfruit pieces, drained Sunflower oil for greasing For the Indonesian satay paste: 4-5 fresh red chillies, to taste, chopped 4 garlic cloves, chopped 4 shallots, chopped 2 fresh or freezedried makrut lime leaves, fine central ribs removed

METHOD 1.5cm piece fresh galangal or ginger, peeled and chopped 6 tbsp sunflower oil 4 tbsp tamarind water 2 tbsp sweet soy sauce (kecap manis) TO SERVE (optional): 1 lime, quartered Spring onions, finely chopped Mint leaves, chopped Peanut dipping sauce

Tip

For a mild flavour, I dilute tamarind paste with water, using two parts water to one part paste

l If using bamboo or wooden skewers, put eight skewers in a bowl of water and leave to soak for at least one hour. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. l Meanwhile, make the spice paste. Put all the paste ingredients in a food processor and process until a fine paste forms, scraping down the side of the bowl as necessary. Alternatively, pound the ingredients together with a pestle and mortar. l Put the spice paste in a large bowl, add the jackfruit pieces and stir together gently so they are coated. Cover and chill in the fridge for at least 15 minutes, or up to six hours. l Just before you are ready to cook, light a charcoal barbecue and leave until the coals are glowing, or preheat a grill to high and line the grill pan with aluminium foil. l Gently thread the jackfruit pieces onto the skewers. Brush the barbecue grid or grill rack with oil, then add the skewers and grill for three to four minutes, turning so they are lightly browned all over. Transfer to a platter and squeeze over fresh lime juice, then serve with lime wedges, spring onions and mint leaves, if using. Give each person a portion of the peanut dipping sauce. 8 M AY/J U N E 2022 |

Tip

Remove lemongrass base and dried outer leaves, then bash the stalk to release the fresh flavour

AUBERGINE AND BROCCOLI IN COCONUT CURRY amok SERVES 4 - 6

Amok is Cambodia’s national dish, with the lemongrass, galangal and fresh turmeric providing the distinctive character of this curry. I’ve kept all those ingredients in the curry paste in this vegan version, for an authentic dining experience. Serve with jasmine rice.

INGREDIENTS 3 tablespoons coconut oil 2 red onions, thinly sliced 4 fresh or dried makrut lime leaves, fine central ribs removed 2 large aubergines, trimmed and cut into bite-sized pieces 800ml coconut milk 150g broccoli florets and stalks, chopped 200g frozen peas Sea salt Spring onions, sliced, to garnish For the curry paste: 6 garlic cloves, chopped 6 fresh or dried makrut lime leaves,

central ribs removed 2-3 fresh red chillies, ideally Thai chillies, to taste, chopped 15g shallots, chopped ¼ lemongrass stalk, outer layers removed and the stalk bashed and finely chopped 3cm piece of galangal, peeled and finely chopped 1cm piece of fresh turmeric, peeled and grated, or 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 4 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice 4 tsp grated jaggery or demerara sugar

METHOD

LEMONGRASS, GALANGAL AND FRESH TURMERIC PROVIDE THE DISTINCTIVE CHARACTER OF THIS CURRY 22

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l First make the curry paste. Put all the ingredients in a food processor and combine until a smooth paste forms, scraping down the side of the bowl as necessary. Set aside. l Heat a wok over a high heat. Add the coconut oil and swirl it around until it melts. Add the red onions with a pinch of salt and stir-fry until softened. Add the makrut lime leaves and aubergine and continue stirring to sear the aubergines. l Lower the heat to medium-high, add the curry paste and stir for two to three minutes to cook out the rawness. Stir in the coconut milk and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to the point where the mixture just simmers and leave for about 10 minutes until the aubergine is half tender. l Stir in the broccoli and a splash of water, if necessary, so the liquid just covers the vegetables, and simmer for a further 10 minutes. Add the peas and continue simmering until the vegetables are hot and tender. Taste and adjust the salt, if necessary, then garnish with spring onions and serve. CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

RECIPES

PERSIAN PUMPKIN AND CHICKPEA CURRY khoresh fesenjãn SERVES 3 - 4

This is my vegan version of an Iranian classic, a rich dish with walnuts and pomegranate flavourings and a hint of cinnamon. You can use vegetable stock if you’d like, but I wanted to keep the flavours of the other ingredients quite pure, which is why I’ve specified water.

INGREDIENTS ½ large pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into bite-sized cubes, about 400g prepared weight Sunflower oil Ground cinnamon 75g walnut halves 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 onion, chopped 7cm piece of cinnamon bark 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground turmeric 2 x 400g cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed 100ml pomegranate juice

75g pomegranate molasses ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp ground black pepper Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste, or a pinch of ground nutmeg 1 unwaxed orange, zested About 500ml water, as needed Maple syrup, optional 80g pomegranate seeds Salt and ground black pepper Chopped flat-leaf parsley or coriander, to garnish

METHOD l Preheat

the oven to 220C (fan 200C, gas 7). Put the pumpkin cubes on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Drizzle with sunflower oil and lightly dust with ground cinnamon, then shake the tray so all the cubes are well coated. Roast in the oven for 20 minutes or until the pumpkin is tender and the tip of a knife slides through easily. l Meanwhile, heat a frying pan, ideally non-stick, over a medium-high heat. Add the walnuts and toast, stirring often, until lightly browned. Leave to cool, then transfer to a food processor and combine until finely ground. Set aside. l Heat two tablespoons sunflower oil in a large saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the garlic and onion and fry, stirring often, until the onions start to soften. Add the cinnamon bark and continue frying, stirring, until the onions are light brown. Stir in the cumin, turmeric and ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, and stir together for 30 seconds. Add the chickpeas, pomegranate juice, pomegranate molasses, salt, pepper and a good grating of nutmeg. Increase the heat and bring to the boil, stirring. CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

l Add the pumpkin cubes and ground walnuts and return the mixture to the boil, stirring until it thickens. Add the orange zest and stir in just enough water to get the thickness you like. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if needed, and if it’s too sour add maple syrup. Stir in the pomegranate seeds and garnish with parsley before serving.

Atul Kochhar is a celebrated chef and author of six cookbooks. He was the first Indian chef to receive a Michelin star, and is a regular on UK television. Curry Everyday is published by Bloomsbury Absolute and is out now in hardback, priced at £26. Photography by Mike Cooper. M AY/J U N E 2022 |

UNCOVER JERSEY’S best-kept secrets Welcome to the curiously Brit...(ish) island of Jersey, a place that’s familiar yet ever so slightly exotic

et just eight miles off the French coast, Jersey’s continental curiosities are waiting to be discovered in every corner of this small island, which is just nine by five miles. It’s the sunniest spot in the British Isles, combining stunning coastline and rustic coves, sophisticated shopping in the capital, St Helier, with rolling countryside and rugged clifftops, all just a short flight or ferry ride away. Perfectly petite and packing a punch, Jersey is a melting pot of the best bits of the British Isles, blended effortlessly with sophisticated French influence and authentic character that lures travellers in search of sunshine, history, local gastronomy and adventure.

FEAST ON OYSTERS BY THE BAY

It’s famous for Jersey Royals and distinctively creamy dairy products – best enjoyed in an indulgent afternoon tea – but this island has plenty more fresh, field-to-fork produce to discover. With the world’s third-largest tidal range, its shores are an ideal environment to find fresh oysters, lobsters and hand-dived scallops. This is an island where honesty is its own reward, so why not pop a few Jersey pounds in any farm-gate honesty box to pick up freshly dug Royals or sweet strawberries. Or enjoy a tasting experience in the heart of the

countryside at La Mare Wine Estate, the UK’s most southerly vineyard and a place to pick up gourmet souvenirs and gifts including Jersey black butter, vodka or locally made chocolate.

SLEEP LIKE A QUEEN

Walk across the causeway (at low tide) or take the castle ferry to the ancient battlements of Elizabeth Castle, which has stood over St Aubin’s Bay for more than 400 years. Find out about Sir Walter Raleigh’s stint as governor of Jersey in the early 1600s, why King Charles II sought refuge here during the English Civil War, and see the hermitage where St Helier lived – and if that’s not enough, you can even stay overnight to explore this Tudor castle.

SOAK UP ST HELIER

Enjoy the bustling streets of St Helier, which has all the shops, bars and restaurants you’d expect of the capital within a walkable distance. Head to the Central and Beresford Street Market where stalls are piled high with fresh fruit and veg then browse the boutiques along King Street to dig out quirky local crafts. Make sure you book ahead for the island’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, Bohemia, which has held that honour for 17 years straight thanks to contemporary cooking and top-notch ingredients.

A D V E RT I S I N G F E AT U R E

GO ON SEAFARI

Glide across the water on a boat trip to spot dolphins and other marine life frolicking near Jersey’s shores. You’ll head towards nearby islands of Les Ecréhous or Minquiers while a guide points out Atlantic grey seals, a host of birdlife or playful bottlenose dolphins – and you could even upgrade your adventure to stop off for a private sandbank picnic on the way.

PICTURES: VISIT JERSEY; MAX BURNETT; MATT PORTEOUS

WATCH THE SAND GLOW AT NIGHT

Jersey’s beaches are delightful by day, but La Rocque harbour after dark treats you to an entirely different kind of beauty. Jersey Walk Adventures hosts spectacular bioluminescence walks on the seabed so you can stroll through ‘caulleriella bioculata’ – worms that glow like fireflies – as they light up the sand below to match the stars in the sky above.

BOOK NOW

British Airways Holidays offers a fantastic-value short break in Jersey, with flights and three nights at four-star La Place Hotel and Country Cottages from just £329 per person (based on travel from Heathrow on selected dates from August 1-31, 2022, ATOL protected, terms and conditions apply. Book at ba.com/jersey).

Opposite, top to bottom: Shopping at St Helier’s Central Market; cycling in St Ouen; enjoy fresh seafood Main image: Sand bank at Les Minquiers Clockwise from above: Spectacular bioluminescence walks; Portelet Bay; Elizabeth Castle; fine dining at Bohemia, from head chef Callum Graham

Win A WEEKEND FOR TWO WITH MICHELIN-STARRED DINING V

isit Jersey is giving away a luxury weekend for two with a Michelin-starred dinner, along with two hampers packed full of Jersey goodies for the runners-up. One lucky reader will enjoy two nights in a Deluxe room with breakfast at The Club Hotel & Spa, set in the heart of St Helier and featuring a rooftop garden, heated pool and thermal spa. They’ll be treated to a tasting menu for two at the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Bohemia – the only venue on the island to boast the prestigious

accolade – along with return travel with Condor Ferries for two passengers and a car, departing from Poole or Portsmouth.* There are also two hampers of luxury Maison de Jersey goodies to be won, stuffed with Jersey blackbutter fudge, white chocolate-dipped biscuits, handmade chocolate Florentines, Jersey black butter, apple chutney and onion relish. To be in with a chance of winning, simply answer the question below by 11.59pm on June 10, 2022, online at cruise-international. com/win-a-jersey-weekend

What is the name of Jersey’s only Michelin-starred restaurant?

■

Bohemia

■

Florentine

■

Maison de Jersey

* Travel must take place between October 1, 2022, and March 31, 2023, excluding Christmas and New Year. Full terms and conditions can be found at cruise-international.com/win-a-jersey-weekend

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NEW SHIPS

PICTURES: VIRGIN VOYAGES/MELANIE ACEVEDO; FIIPPO VINARDI

Enjoy a sumptuous spa on Silversea’s Silver Dawn, foodie fun on Virgin Voyages’ Valiant Lady and a home-from-home on Arena River Cruises’ long-awaited Arena with our reviews of the latest ship launches

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NEW SHIPS

SILVER DAWN Spoil yourself with the new spa concept from Silversea Cruises, which puts the emphasis on indulgence, writes Jane Archer

ell, this is different! Usually after a spa treatment, the therapist instructs you to drink only water for the rest of the day to allow the toxins she has released to flow away. But I’ve just been escorted to the relaxation room on Silver Dawn, where Sandra, my masseur, treats me to lemongrass rum and chocolates as I listen to classical music instead of the usual whale sounds. Welcome to Otium, a new way of spa-ing inspired by the Romans’ love of pleasure and indulgence rather than the modern notion of abstinence, now available on the latest ship launched by luxury line Silversea Cruises. The Latin name Otium was picked as it loosely translates as ‘do nothing’. That’s rather fitting because the moment you step on board for the first time, you are overwhelmed by a desire to do just that. Nothing. Especially when greeted by a butler who even offers to unpack your suitcase. Silversea has been setting the tone for luxury since it was founded in 1994, but has honed the sybarite lifestyle to a T with this ship. It’s not just having so much included that you

never have to think about price, but also the decor, which is elegant and gentle on the eye, and the feeling of space, which is surprising on a small ship that holds just 596 passengers. For one so small, there is an

WHEN YOU STEP ON BOARD YOU’RE OVERWHELMED BY A DESIRE TO DO NOTHING

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amazing choice of restaurants serving everything from Argentinean steaks and Japanese teppanyaki to homemade Italian pasta. La Dame is the place for French fine dining, while the Salt Kitchen serves food favourites of the places being visited. Going local is part of another new Silversea initiative that connects passengers to places through food and drink. Next to the Salt Kitchen (the acronym stands for Sea and Land Taste), try local cocktails in the intimate Salt Bar and cook regional favourites in the Salt Lab while learning how dishes developed. As befits a vessel of this class, all cabins are suites and almost all have a balcony. Book an Owners’ or Grand

Suite and you get something akin to an apartment, with a bedroom, a sitting and dining room, huge bathroom and walk-in wardrobe. The other rooms are none too shabby though, with lots of space, big balconies, showers, baths and walk-in wardrobes. All suites come with that welcoming butler, who exclusively on Silver Dawn has a few Otium treats up his immaculately pressed sleeves. Fancy relaxing in a candlelit orange blossom bath while nibbling on caviar and macaroons? How about hot chocolate with rum on the balcony while swaddled in a cashmere blanket? Indulgent? You bet. But that’s what Otium is all about. 

GETTING THERE A seven-night cruise from Civitavecchia (Rome) to Barcelona departing August 4, 2022, costs from £4,100 per person including home-toairport chauffeur, businessclass flights, overseas transfers, drinks, shore excursions, most dining, tips and Wi-Fi. Find out more at silversea.com

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PICTURE: SILVERSEA CRUISES/MATTEO IMBRIANI

Clockwise from above: Otium-branded products; relaxing on the balcony; Otium spa; dining on deck; enjoying indulgent treats

NEW SHIPS

 CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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NEW SHIPS

VALIANT LADY Virgin Voyages’ second ship brings the Branson-owned line’s playful style to the high seas once again, ﬁnds Katie McGonagle

hen business-savvy superstar Jennifer Lopez gives a brand her seal of approval, you know it must be doing something right, so Virgin Voyages’ latest move – to bring J-Lo on board as an investor and director of the line’s lifestyle and entertainment programme – is set to introduce the brand to an entirely new audience. When it burst onto the

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scene with its first ship, Scarlet Lady, Virgin Voyages promised to throw out the rulebook and reinvent the cruise experience afresh, casting buffets aside in favour of funky street-food markets and even introducing the first-ever

tattoo parlour at sea. Two years later, second ship Valiant Lady incorporates that sense of playfulness with a food, fitness and entertainment-focused vibe that will suit a work hard, play hard clientele. The adult-only ship is packed full of instantly Instagrammable spots, from the cabanas on the sun deck to the mirrored, fairylightfilled entrance to nightclub The Manor, where you can’t

THE VIBE ON VALIANT LADY WILL SUIT A WORK HARD, PLAY HARD CLIENTELE

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PICTURES: VIRGIN VOYAGES/MELANIE ACEVEDO/ SANG AN; BRIAN BRACHER

NEW SHIPS

help but feel glitzy and glamorous as you gear up for an evening of entertainment. Food and drink are the serious standouts here, with nine restaurants and six bars on board, and clever design offering plenty of tucked-away little nooks to enjoy a quiet drink à deux. There’s relaxed dining in street-food hall The Galley, Korean barbecue at Gunbae and Mexican favourites at Pink Agave, along with energetic venues such as Razzle Dazzle where you’ll find vegan options and fun-filled drag brunches, with all dining included in the cruise fare. I opted for the tasting menu in The Test Kitchen, where the only clue of what’s to come is an open kitchen and a pared-back list of ingredients, relying instead on the chef explaining the elements of each dish one course at a time. We feasted on rich and CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

earthy mushroom mousse, scallops with salty prosciutto and venison with a sharp blackberry sauce, followed by mandarin sorbet and a chocolate fondant so perfectly gooey it would put many a MasterChef contestant to shame. But what really stood out was the incredible value for money in this top-quality tasting menu, presented without any fussiness. Cabins are comfortable and Sea Terrace and above feature a balcony with a hammock, ideal for swaying the day away on sunny voyages, and are kitted out with the latest tech including a tablet that operates everything in the room. Fitness is also a key feature here, with multiple gyms boasting long rows of treadmills, a resistance studio with weights and even a boxing gym and athletics course out on deck. The same fun and flair extends to the exercise

offer as well, with retro ’80s-style aerobics and sunrise yoga on the sun deck among the classes – plus healthy juices and snacks at the Gym and Tonic bar to enjoy afterwards. Valiant Lady is sailing in Europe this summer with holidays in Spain, Portugal, the Mediterranean and the Greek islands, promising a neverending supply of entertainment both  on board and ashore.

GETTING THERE

Clockwise from far left, top: Yoga class; cabin interior design; dinner on the terrace of a Massive Suite; Valiant Lady; guests can control the TV, lighting and order room service via a tablet; sauna in Redemption Spa

The Irresistible Med, a sevennight itinerary round-trip from Barcelona, starts at £804 per person for an Insider cabin or £1,032 in a Sea Terrace with balcony, based on a June 26 departure. Find out more and book at virginvoyages.com

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NEW SHIPS

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NEW SHIPS

ARENA Enjoy an affordable escape on Europe’s rivers with the much-anticipated launch of this Arena River Cruises ship, writes Jeannine Williamson

or British cruisers, Arena is a very cosy and welcoming home-from-home. The breakfast buffet has everything you need for a satisfying ‘full English’, there’s daily afternoon tea and the dessert menu features traditional treats such as bread-and-butter pudding. Delayed for two years due to the pandemic, Arena River Cruises’ 192-passenger flagship finally set sail in March and is the first of two vessels being introduced by the UK line in 2022. On European rivers that are already awash with self-styled, five-star luxury ships, it fills the gap for anyone looking for a value-formoney river cruise, maybe as a second holiday or as a first-time river cruiser. Arena might lack the bells and whistles of swish ships with butlers and an array of dining venues, but it excels in offering a very comfortable and relaxed vibe with no formal dress code, friendly crew members, affordable fares and some pleasant surprises along the way. For example, most river ships have lower ‘duck level’ cabins that are just above the water line and have fixed windows that don’t open. Arena’s

cabins – which are all the same size – have floor-to-ceiling windows that slide open onto a Juliet balcony, where you can lean out over a railing rather than step out. They also tilt open to provide fresh air. As well as making

PICTURES: MARTIN POPE; CHRISTIAN TAUMER; SHUTTERSTOCK/NATTAPOOM V; ARENA RIVER CRUISES

ARENA EXCELS IN OFFERING A RELAXED VIBE AND SOME PLEASANT SURPRISES

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cabins very light, it’s a nice touch that you would normally associate with more expensive vessels. There’s even a small gym and sauna, too. Built in 2005 and previously sailing for another line under a different name, Arena was given a complete makeover before being launched by Arena River Cruises, which caters only for English and Irish passengers. The panoramic lounge is the hub of the ship. Again, it has large windows so you don’t miss any of the passing views. There’s a bar, resident keyboard player and dance floor, and on each cruise you can expect a couple of quiz nights run by the affable British cruise directors. Buffet breakfast and lunch, and an

à la carte dinner, are served in the one main restaurant and drinks are not included unless you buy the good-value €20 per day premium package, which includes other perks. It’s worth noting the ship doesn’t have any lifts so is not suitable for wheelchair users. Arena sails on the Dutch waterways, Rhine, Moselle and Danube, including themed spring bulbfields trips, expert-led itineraries that this year include gardeners Charlie Dimmock and Helen Yemm, and Christmas market sailings.

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Arena’s bar and lounge; gardening expert Helen Yemm; cruising the canals; cabin interior; Charlie Dimmock Above (left): Arena sailing on the Rhine (right) Church of St Peter, Bacharach, Germany

GETTING THERE A seven-night Danube cruise on Arena, departing on August 16, 2022, and sailing roundtrip from Passau, starts from £1,195 per person including coach travel and ferry crossing plus a one-night pre and post-cruise B&B hotel stay in Germany. For more details visit arenarivercruises.com Read more cruise reviews online at cruise-international.com M AY/J U N E 2022 |

SEINE

Top left: Royal chapel, Versailles Main image: Viking longship on the Seine

FRENCH PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/FADI BARGHOUTHY; VIKING CRUISES

fancy

What could be better than a springtime sailing along the Seine from Paris to Normandy? Frances Marcellin reports

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SEINE

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SEINE

s 10 white doves took flight, an awed silence filled the air at Port de Grenelle in Paris, save for some faint “oohs” from the crowd, watching as the birds’ fluttering wings powered them into distant specks high above the River Seine. Moments before, Karine Hagen, executive vice-president of Viking Cruises, had announced that on the christening of eight new longships (four in Paris, and four by a live link to Amsterdam), the company was releasing “some peace and hope into our skies”. After two years of pandemic problems, the celebration of a new beginning at this long-awaited event was overshadowed by the war in Ukraine and, out of respect, festivities were pared back. Doves soared overhead instead of fireworks, and a gala dinner at the beautiful Hotel Evreux on Place Vendôme was an intimate affair that focused on sharing hope for the future. One of the new longships, Viking Radgrid, named after a horse-riding spirit who served Odin, father of the Gods, would be my home for the next few nights. Captained by François Bertin, the 125m vessel is designed – like sister ships Kari, Skaga and Fjorgyn – specifically to navigate the Seine. My stateroom exudes elegance and even has a view of the Eiffel Tower from the balcony. In the morning we’re whisked off to the Louvre where our guide, film producer turned art historian Frédéric Huette, is a treasure trove of facts. After admiring the towering Arc de Triomphe de Carousel and the iconic pyramid of the Louvre, created by Chinese architect IM Pei, we explore the original 12th-century sandstone walls inside, still covered in hearts that were etched by stonemasons in medieval times.

Clockwise, from top left: The Seine at La Roche-Guyon; the chateau at La Roche-Guyon; entrance to the Petit Palais museum; Vernon, Normandy; a traditional mill house on a bridge above the Seine; the Louvre’s famous pyramid 36

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We take in the Greek marble beauty Venus de Milo, presented to Louis XVIII after being found on the Aegean island of Milos, and the golden-domed Apollo Gallery that displays the French crown jewels. We then debate whether the Mona Lisa was modelled on Leonardo da Vinci’s apprentice, Salaì – it was believed they were romantically involved and her name is even an anagram of ‘Mon Salaì’. We pay a quick visit to the Petit Palais art museum on the way back, but I only get as far as the exquisite courtyard garden. Its bright pink cherry blossom and verdant palm trees are a perfect spot for coffee, and outside I admire Jean Cardot’s impressive bronze sculpture of Winston Churchill. At sunset, under amber and purple skies, we float silently out of Le Pecq thanks to the ship’s hybrid diesel-electric engines. Green energy abounds as there are also solar panels on the top deck, the option to use shoreside power where available, and an organic herb garden. The next morning, I wake to blue skies and bright sunshine in La Roche-Guyon, part of the Val d’Oise. The serene country mooring is akin to a quiet motorboat berth and a world away from Paris. I’m enraptured by the village, and the atmosphere here is cleverly evoked by Claude Monet in his 1881 impressionist painting Le Château de la Roche Guyon. Instead of taking the walking tour to the château, I trail-run up the limestone hills to investigate the keep at the top. It’s well worth it: the view of the Seine snakes towards Normandy and I pause to soak in the magic of that moment. At our next stop, Vernon, I discover that during the German occupation a strong underground resistance formed called ‘Le Reseau’ – their resilience won out because when that network was destroyed, they formed another called 8 CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/THIERRY64/MARCELLO LAND SHUTTERSTOCK/D.SERRA1/FREE PROD33/VICHIE81

G R E E N E N E R G Y A B O U N D S A S T H E R E A R E S O L A R PA N E L S , SHORESIDE POWER AND AN ORGANIC HERB GARDEN

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PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/FRANCK LEGROS/ PARK ISLAND; ADAM HILLIER

I D I D N ’ T T H I N K V E R SA I L L E S CO U L D B E TO P P E D, B U T V I K I N G S U CC E E DS W I T H A M O O N L I T TO U R TO T H E E I F F E L TOW E R

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‘Vengeance’. From here you can bike or bus it to the Museum of Impressionism in Giverny, a stone’s throw from Monet’s old house and garden. The local Sainte-Radegonde church is where Monet was buried with his family. Less than 24 hours later, we’re eating melt-in-your mouth croissants for breakfast in the Palace of Versailles. Once the closest forest to Paris, this opulent residence started as a hunting lodge for Louis XIII, which is hard to believe when you’re being dazzled by light and chandeliers in the famous Hall of Mirrors. Visiting Versailles brings history to life, and the artworks are exquisite. In the 18th century, white hair was high fashion and our guide explains how the upper classes, including Marie Antoinette, powdered their hair with flour, which didn’t go down well with the masses who were starving because of a bread shortage. Her reputation plummeted, giving rise to the notorious pronouncement: “Let them eat cake”. As a mother, an oil painting of Marie Antoinette from 1787 with her young children twanged my heart strings, showing a closeness to them that was unusual for nobility at this time. After the monarchy was abolished in 1792, she was tragically separated from her family, including husband Louis XVI, and they were executed a year later. Only her eldest daughter, Marie Thérèse, survived into adulthood. Outside, the immaculate grounds cover roughly 2,000 acres, seeming to reach almost as far as the horizon. You could spend hours here exploring such monumental gardens. I didn’t think topping the Versailles experience was possible, but back in Paris, Viking succeeded with a moonlit riverboat tour to the twinkling Eiffel Tower, a new excursion CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

SEINE

set to be added on Seine sailings in 2023. Chocolate-covered strawberries and champagne flowed, and we marvelled at Gustave Eiffel’s 986ft masterpiece. As I took in the moment with old and new friends, the sound of a distant horn cast my mind back to the christening. When the bottle of aquavit – the Norwegian national spirit that is Viking’s preferred stand-in for champagne – broke over the bow of the eighth new ship, the fleet’s horns blasted out in celebration as the crowd clapped and cheered. “That Parisian traffic!” joked Alastair Miller – the master of ceremonies and Viking’s resident photographer – his quip making everyone laugh. That melange of elegance, experience and conviviality makes this voyage so special and, in this case, added a sprinkling of je ne sais quoi.

GETTING THERE Viking Cruises’ eight-day Paris & the Heart of Normandy trip starts from £1,945 per person for sailings in 2023, when booked by June 30. Includes flights from UK airports, all onboard meals with wine, beer or soft drinks at lunch and dinner, six guided tours, Wi-Fi, gratuities and evening entertainment. A new three-day culinary extension is also available, including a lesson in baking croissants at a Parisian cooking school and a wine and cheese evening hosted by a sommelier in a private cellar. To book, visit vikingcruises.co.uk To find out more about French river cruises, visit cruise-international.com Clockwise, from top left: Afternoon tea; the Hall of Mirrors and Marie Antoinette painting, Versailles; the library on board Viking’s longships; the Seine and Eiffel Tower, Paris, by moonlight; the royal garden and fountain, Palace of Versailles CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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Aurora Borealis, Lofoten islands 40

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N O R W AY

LIGHT fantastic

PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/ EVGENIY BILETSKIY

Nature’s greatest spectacle is just one of many memorable Arctic experiences, finds Sara Macefield

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M AY/J U N E 2022 |

he powder blue of the vast polar sky is fading into a rose-tinged hue as the sun gently slides towards the horizon. Under the silvery glow of the pale moon, suspended like a gleaming disc above us, we crunch across a crisp layer of deep snow to where our chariots await – a shiny line of snowmobiles poised to speed us into this icy wilderness. It’s a magical moment as we fire up the engines and slowly pull away across the milky white expanse into the Norwegian hinterland, revelling in the realisation that there’s nothing else around us – just snow, space and miles of sky. In a few weeks, 5,000 reindeer will flood onto these ivory slopes when they move from their winter grazing grounds to spend the milder summer months here as the snow melts away to reveal the grasslands beneath. But for now, the terrain is ours – an immense snowy Sahara stretching as far as the eye can see, where we glide

along in single file revelling in the breathtaking views across this polar moonscape as the magical twilight of the Arctic night descends. When we come to a halt and turn off the engines, the total silence is all-consuming, broken only by our whoops of amazement as we look behind to see that the horizon has dissolved into a searing cauldron of fiery crimson. Nature is clearly putting on a show, but it hasn’t quite finished yet. A few minutes later, against darkening indigo skies, slim wispy streaks appear directly above us. The Northern Lights have come out to play. They are the ultimate prize during this voyage, which hugs Norway’s craggy coastline to delve deep into the Arctic Circle and the promised land of the Aurora Borealis that teases and tantalises with the promise of mesmerising atmospheric displays. I’ve been here before, both literally and metaphorically, as a previous Arctic visit failed to deliver the wondrous

WE LOOK BEHIND TO SEE THAT THE HORIZON HAS DISSOLVED INTO A CAULDRON OF FIERY CRIMSON

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PICTURES: HAVILA VOYAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK/TATYANA VYC; GETTY IMAGES/ ISTOCKPHOTO/PEETERV; ØYSTEIN KLAKEGG; GETTY IMAGES/ANTONY SPENCER

N O R W AY

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Bergen; on snowmobiles; Trondheim sunset; Lofoten in winter This page (top): Couple on deck, Lofoten islands (below): Havila Capella stylings natural spectacle I’d hoped for. So when I board Havila Voyages’ shiny new ship, Havila Capella, in the Norwegian city of Trondheim, ready to sail to Kirkenes on the country’s far northern tip, my hopes are high that this time the journey will bear fruit. With forecasts of clear night skies and pronounced solar activity, the outlook is promising and, sure enough, after a night or two, the Aurora Borealis appears – but they are just whitish streaks across the sky, only attaining a greenish tinge in mobile phone pictures that are then edited to accentuate them even more. I can’t help thinking that this is cheating and, while the pictures look good, they don’t reflect the reality. I’m still distinctly underwhelmed, but my disappointment is swiftly erased by the natural bounty along this historic route, stretching between Bergen and Kirkenes, that takes in some of the most beautiful stretches of Norwegian scenery where roughly hewn mountains rise up like jagged teeth, their slopes dusted with icing-sugar snow. The ships on this route are subsidised by Norway’s government to ensure that the tiny remote communities dotted along the sweep of coast have a year-round freight and passenger service.  CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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PICTURES: HAVILA VOYAGES; MATTIAS FREDRIKSSON/FJORDNORWAY.COM

N O R W AY

Above: Skiing in Hjorundfjord Below: Balcony Deluxe cabin on Havila Capella Following years of being exclusively served by Norwegian line Hurtigruten, newcomer Havila Voyages debuted last December after winning a government licence to operate a number of services. The line is part of the family-owned Norwegian company Havila Group, founded in the 1950s with interests in shipping technology, transport and tourism, and its first ship, Havila Capella, will be joined by three identical sisters later this year. All claim to be the most environmentally friendly vessels on this route thanks to their being powered by a hybrid mixture of liquefied natural gas (LNG) and the world’s largest ship battery packs. This means Havila’s fleet isn’t only quieter, but emissions will be significantly reduced too – a vital requirement of sailing through the Unesco World Heritage-designated areas on the Norwegian coastline. Life aboard Havila Capella is also something of a hybrid experience, as cruise guests mingle with locals who hop on and off between ports, sometimes not even requiring a cabin. While accommodating as many as 640 passengers, there are just 179 cabins, including some rather swanky suites full of Scandi chic touches and even an imitation log fire, 8 44

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This page: Henningsvær village, Lofoten Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Sami dwelling in Tromso; writer Sara Macefield meets a reindeer; fine dining and cocktails on board promising that cosy hygge (or koselig in Norwegian) feeling while you admire the frozen landscape. My Seaview Superior cabin is a comfortable minimalist bolthole and at 15 square metres feels pretty spacious – something Havila claims as one of its USPs. But I don’t spend much time here, preferring to relax in the comfy chairs of the observation lounge, where the 270-degree floor-to-ceiling windows give a perfect vantage point. The hot tubs out on deck look even more tempting and I’m all set to take the plunge but, alas, they aren’t ready for use on our sailing. I console myself by tucking into the Norwegian-inspired cuisine with gusto. Havila may not be a cruise line in the usual sense, but that doesn’t mean we miss out on one of cruising’s most mouth-watering draws. Mealtimes become the ultimate dilemma with so many classic and Nordic favourites, but tasting-type menus at breakfast and lunch mean we can choose as many dishes as we want. I’m not disappointed because virtually everything I order exceeds my expectations. I gorge myself on delicious velvety forest mushroom soup and lightly grilled reindeer fillet, and dip into a line-up of veggie temptations with crunchy salads and crispy pea schnitzel. 46

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A premium Havila Gold menu, which carries a supplement, further opens up the choice and I throw caution to the wind, opting for the rather outlandish deep-fried cod tongue and cod cheek. I needn’t have worried; both are delicious and taste just like scampi. After more feasting in the fine-dining Hildring Restaurant (from £26), I balance my gluttony by taking advantage of the plethora of onshore adventures to burn off some calories. There’s everything from walking tours to dog-sledding and fishing adventures, though they come at a hefty price with the cheapest being a whistle-stop beer-tasting at approximately £40, while our snowmobiling jaunt tops the league at a cool £263. In Bodo, we admire spectacular mountainous vistas while scrambling along rocky paths and across sandy bays on a Taste the Arctic walk (£83), and in Honningsvag I opt for a King Crab experience (£136) to get close and personal with these spindly giants of the Barents Sea before tucking into one of them for lunch. However, I’m most excited about meeting Rudolph and friends on a reindeer sledding adventure at a Sami herder’s settlement near Tromso (£158). As we arrive, our antlered steeds are tethered up and CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/ FRANCKREPORTER/PAWEL OPASKA; TOM HAGA

N O R W AY

ready to go, steadily clip-clopping in a long line as we sit back and relish views of the sun’s rays bouncing off the snowy sweep of land. When we finally come to a halt, I try to engage our fourlegged friend, but she remains aloof, twisting her head away as I try to pat her. It’s a different story for the rest of the 300-strong herd as I walk among them with a bucket of feed pellets. Suddenly they all want to be friends; in fact, I feel rather too popular as several plod over in unison, barging each other out of the way as they try to stick their noses into the bucket. Scuffles break out and as I duck out of range, a disgruntled female butts me in the backside with her antlers. I let out a yelp of surprise as I skip away laughing, mightily relieved that these wiry combatants are so small. A few minutes later, I’m tucking into a warming bowl of reindeer stew in a traditional Sami Lavu tent, listening to 21-year-old herder Inga Margrethe talk about the lives

and traditions of these nomads who follow their reindeer through the mountains between their grazing areas. “Reindeer herding has now become a man’s job rather than a family one as it used to be, because more people are getting other jobs. Even my own mother now works in an office,” she explains. “I’m very excited to be doing this, but also very nervous.” Margrethe’s talk takes a fascinating turn as she explains how the Sami have endured discrimination as their culture and traditions have been chiselled away. And now their way of life is threatened by wind farms that are planned for the reindeer’s summer grazing grounds. “The Sami people live in nature and respect it, while others just see it as a way to make money,” she asserts. Her words ring through my mind on the final evening as we make our way through the dusky night towards Kirkenes and I gaze at the pristine line of mountains framing the horizon. 8

MEALTIMES BECOME THE ULTIMATE DILEMMA, WITH SO MANY CLASSIC NORDIC FAVOURITES ON OFFER

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PICTURE: 4 CORNERS IMAGES/MAURIZIO RELLINI

N O R W AY

Above: Northern Lights above Sakrisoy village Below: Panoramic Deluxe cabin on Havila Capella Suddenly, the ship bridge announces that the Aurora is overhead. I race outside and am blown away by the maelstrom in the sky above me as pulsating greenish streaks dance through the heavens, continuously ebbing and flowing through the darkness. This is what I’ve been waiting for – the ultimate light show that has us spellbound as we excitedly watch in awe. As a final-night finale, Mother Nature really did save the very best until last.

GETTING THERE A 13-night package is offered by Best Served Scandinavia that includes a Havila Voyages 11-night round-trip sailing from Bergen to Kirkenes and two B&B overnight hotel stays pre and post-cruise. It costs from £1,495 per person, including flights and transfers, for departures in January 2023. Find out more and book at best-served.co.uk Read more about the best Norway and Northern Lights cruises to book by visiting cruise-international.com 48

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CRUISING

with the kids

It’s a big world out there and cruising is the ideal way to explore it with children, whether you’re taking a toddler to the Med or a teenager to the Poles. Joanna Booth selects some of the best family sailings on offer

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hether you’re looking for a relaxing family holiday following a stressful couple of years stuck at home, or the chance to spend quality time with grandchildren who are growing up too fast, there’s a cruise to suit. Traditional ocean ships are packed with family-friendly fun to enjoy together, alongside kids’ clubs to give parents a much-needed break. River cruise lines are starting to cater for children too, while adventurous families can consider an expedition cruise to explore some of the most exciting places on Earth. The bonus they all share? An easy-peasy way to experience a host of different destinations in one trip – the perfect chance to make up for all those missed holidays. Just remember to check vaccination and testing requirements before you book and travel as these can vary by line and destination.

BEST FOR

PICTURES: CROISIEUROPE/GREGORY GERAULT/ HELWIN GOETZINGER

5-12s

BEST FOR

Floating fiesta

Alternative Andalusia

Make your February half-term fun with a capital F on board Carnival Cruises’ Mardi Gras. This pleasure palace at sea has its own rollercoaster, water park, ropes course (left), IMAX cinema, deck parties and a live family game show to compete in. There’s something to suit a whole range of ages, from a Build-a-Bear workshop and Dr Seuss parades to ping-pong, pool tables and a video arcade. Shore excursions are designed to thrill too, whether sliding down waterfalls in the Dominican Republic or frolicking with stingrays in Turks and Caicos. The seven-day Exotic Eastern Caribbean sailing on Mardi Gras departing February 11, 2023, from Port Canaveral starts from £749 per person when a family of four shares an Oceanview stateroom (carnival.com).

Get beyond the Costa del Sol and discover a more authentic side to Andalusia with a river cruise along the Guadalquivir. Relaxed French line CroisiEurope offers Family Club sailings during the summer holidays, with free places for children under 16 (two per fare-paying adult, making it excellent value for solo parents). There’s a small pool on the sun deck and family-friendly excursions, including a visit to Seville Aquarium, a horse show in Jerez and a trip to the Isla Magica theme park, where the rides and slides nod towards historic explorers such as Columbus and Cortes. The seven-night Andalusia: Traditions, Gastronomy and Flamenco on La Belle de Cadix (above) departing Seville (top) on August 18, starts from £1,311 for an adult and two children sharing a cabin (croisieurope.co.uk). 8

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5-12s

Rhine River VIPs

BEST FOR

5-12s

Sometimes children can feel like an afterthought on a river cruise, but not on new ship A-Rosa Sena. From the onboard Treasure Island playroom and complimentary kids’ club activities during school holidays to the separate children’s pool on the sun deck and a kids’ section in the buffet, facilities tailor-made for young guests abound. Family cabins (right) sleep up to five with bunk beds and a toybox, and up to three children under 16 can sail for free with two full-paying adults. Special family excursions showcase suitable Rhine highlights, including Amsterdam Zoo and a chocolate tour of Antwerp. The seven-night Rhine Discovery Amsterdam and Rotterdam departing August 20 on A-Rosa Sena costs from £3,899 for a family of four, including flights from Heathrow and transfers (flexidirectholidays.com).

Norway, your way

BEST FOR

under-5s

Parenting very young children can sometimes be relentless. P&O Cruises gives you a genuine break, with complimentary kids’ clubs that start from two years – a year younger than most lines – plus a free night nursery, where under-fives can sleep watched by staff until 2am while you see a show or have an uninterrupted drink. The Norwegian fjords (left) are great for young families, as you can appreciate the views (book a Balcony cabin) and potter at your own pace in the ports, where berths are often in the centre of things. The seven-night Norwegian Fjords cruise on Iona, sailing round-trip from Southampton and departing August 13, starts from £1,099 per adult, £749 per child and £49 per infant (under two) in a Balcony cabin (pocruises.com). 52

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F A M I LY C R U I S E S BEST FOR

teens

Cool Yule Teens keen to leave behind the trappings of childhood will love Celebrity Cruises. Instead of waterslides and a splash pool, they’ll find a Teen Club (left) where they can socialise over video game tournaments and silent disco parties. Even the spa has teen treatments. The only thing cooler than that? Spending Christmas Day in the Cayman Islands (below) on this festive sailing, where you can snorkel with turtles, swim with dolphins and sunbathe on a white-sand beach. The five-night Grand Cayman and Mexico Holidays on Celebrity Summit departs Miami on December 22 and starts from £2,728 for a family of four sharing an Oceanview stateroom (celebritycruises.com).

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/ANDREY ARMYAGOV; CELEBRITY CRUISES/ MICHEL VERDURE/SHELBY SOBLICK; MARVEL/DISNEY

Spooky sailing

BEST FOR

5-12s

With augmented reality Star Wars challenges, The Incredibles-themed game shows, a Toy Story splash zone, Frozen picnics and a Marvel dining adventure (right), Disney Wish – launching in July – takes Disney’s cruise experience to new heights. As well as fun for the whole family, immersive kids’ clubs mean you can retreat to the infinity pool in the adultonly Quiet Cove area for a deserved rest. Take an October half-term cruise and there’ll be added spooky spectacles on board, plus some Bahamas sunshine with days spent in Nassau and on Disney’s private island, Castaway Cay. The four-night Halloween on the High Seas Bahamian Cruise from Port Canaveral on Disney Wish, departing October 24, starts from £830 per person when a family of four shares a Deluxe Oceanview stateroom (disneycruise.com). 8 CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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Ice ages

BEST FOR

teens

Spotting polar bears and walruses along the coast of Svalbard and sailing past skyscraper-high ice in the fjords of eastern Greenland will make this Arctic expedition cruise a showstopper trip for adventurous children aged eight and above. It’s action-packed, with excursions by Zodiac and sea kayak (right) to find whales, and treks in search of musk ox. While Aurora Expeditions’ ship Greg Mortimer doesn’t have the waterslides and kids’ clubs you find on traditional cruises, the team is very engaged with young passengers and larger cabin types can accommodate a third bed. The 15-day Jewels of the Arctic Voyage on Greg Mortimer sailing from Longyearbyen to Reykjavik, departing July 19, starts from £8,785 per person in a Balcony stateroom (auroraexpeditions.co.uk).

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F A M I LY C R U I S E S BEST FOR

5-12s

Caribbean Christmas New ship Norwegian Prima is designed for the sunshine, with an expansive outdoor deck packed with pools, waterslides, a go-kart racetrack (below) and an outdoor sculpture garden. Eating al fresco is encouraged too, with an open-air food hall and Italian, Mexican (left) and American speciality restaurants with outdoor seating. Prima is sailing in the Caribbean this winter, so you can make the most of the onboard experiences in the tropical sunshine and spend Christmas Day in Cozumel snorkelling on a coral reef, visiting Mayan ruins or driving an ATV to a cenote. The seven-day Caribbean: Great Stirrup Cay and Cozumel cruise on Norwegian Prima departing Port Canaveral on December 23 starts from £7,976 for a family of four staying in a Balcony suite (ncl.com).

BEST FOR

teens

Greek odyssey PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/JOANNA PERCHALUK/ POLE 2 POLE IMAGES; MICHAEL BAYNES; ALEXEY SEAFARER

Even the hardest-to-please teen will be converted to cruising by this week-long Mediterranean voyage on action-packed Odyssey of the Seas. Onboard thrills abound, with a skydiving simulator (far left), bungee trampoline, laser tag, bumper cars (left) and 4D virtual reality gaming, while picky eaters are catered for with 15 different restaurants to choose from. Sailing out of Rome, ports of call include super-stylish Santorini, Mykonos and Capri, all full of eminently Instagrammable selfie opportunities. The seven-night Greek Isles Cruise on Odyssey of the Seas departs August 14 from Rome (Civitavecchia), with prices from £888 per person for a family of four sharing an Interior Family Stateroom (royalcaribbean.com). 8 CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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Pole position

BEST FOR

5-12s

Antarctica isn’t only for adults, particularly if you choose the right cruise line. Lindblad Expeditions runs a Global Explorers programme where adventurous teens can earn a Zodiac ‘drivers licence’ and record sightings of penguins and whales in a field notebook with the crew’s naturalists. Teens will love spending Christmas among the ice, and you could even be back in Buenos Aires for New Year’s Eve (right). Expedition cruising is expensive, but Lindblad’s special offers can help, including $500 off for under-18s, fourth guest travels free and triple occupancy on some cabin types. The 13-day Journey to Antarctica: The White Continent cruise on National Geographic Endurance departing December 19 from Ushuaia starts from $23,190 per person based on two adults and one child sharing a cabin, with a $500 discount for under-18s (world.expeditions.com).

BEST FOR

Stress-free sunshine Cruising with small children needn’t be daunting. Sailing round-trip to the Med from Southampton with MSC Cruises, there’s no need for flights, and with the first couple of days spent at sea there’s time to get accustomed to the ship before trying a port excursion. MSC Virtuosa has a lot for the littlest to love, from partnerships with familiar toy brands Lego and Chicco in the kids’ clubs (left) and special menus in the restaurants to the onboard splash park. Ports of call include family favourites Alicante, Majorca and Barcelona. A 14-night cruise on MSC Virtuosa departs July 30 from Southampton, with prices from £1,399 per adult and £399 per child between two and 11. Under-twos cruise free (msccruises.co.uk). 56

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PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/RALF HETTLER/SAHIL YADAV; MSC/IVAN SARFATTI; PAUL NORDMANN; MARK KATZMAN

under-5s

F A M I LY C R U I S E S BEST FOR

5-12s

Alaskan adventure America’s greatest wilderness offers excitement at every turn – Glaciers! Grizzly bears! Totem poles! – making an Alaska cruise perfect for family memory-making. Sleek new ship Discovery Princess is brilliant for multigenerational trips, with onboard experiences to share including cuddles with husky puppies and movies under the stars. Take a break by sending the little ones to the Camp Discovery kids’ clubs while you relax in the adult-only Sanctuary area, then use the line’s wearable Medallion devices to locate one another again. On shore, the fun continues with activities such as dog-sledding, gold-panning and bear-spotting. The seven-night Inside Passage (Roundtrip Seattle) on Discovery Princess departs July 24, with prices from £1,264 per person for a family of four sharing a Balcony cabin (princess.com).

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FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY person £250 per dit airfare cre on selected European cruises

DISCOVER EUROPE by sea with NCL When you cruise with NCL, you get more

f you’ve been dreaming of touring ancient ruins in the Greek isles or strolling along the colourful canals of Amsterdam, you can save big in 2022 with 35% off cruises and fly-cruises.* Plus, you can extend the savings to your onboard experience when you receive ALL applicable Free at Sea upgrade packages for £99 per person* so you won’t have to choose between an open bar, speciality dining, shore excursion credit or Wi-Fi on board – you can enjoy them all. You’ll even get reduced rates for extra guests on select sailings, but act fast! This sale won’t last. With NCL, you can experience the best of Europe with more than 170 unique itineraries to choose from, exploring a new city every day with the convenience of unpacking only once. Choose from 118 ports of call across

northern Europe, the Mediterranean and the Greek isles – more than any other contemporary cruise line – and enjoy port-rich itineraries, some even visiting two ports in one day. You’ll get to stay in Santorini to watch the sunset, delve deeper into the Med’s rich history with longer itineraries between nine and 19 days, and spend up to 11 hours in port on Norway and Iceland itineraries so you can explore freely. NCL has been named Europe’s Leading Cruise Line 14 years in a row at the World Travel Awards. Choose from seven ships cruising Europe in 2022, including Norwegian Escape, the first ever Breakaway Plus-class ship in Europe, and new ship Norwegian Prima, with wide open spaces and a host of upgraded onboard venues. The ship even has pop icon Katy Perry as

its godmother, and she will perform at the christening in Reykjavik this summer. With NCL, you can Feel Free with no timetables – simply a choice of dining venues with the best views, well-appointed accommodation ranging from studios to three-bedroom Haven Suites, award-winning entertainment including hit Broadway shows, and activities for all ages. If you fancy a dip in a beautiful infinity pool, a massage at the Mandara Spa, a ride on a multi-level racetrack or down the fastest slides at sea, you’ll find all that and more with NCL. To book, call 0333 336 1594, visit ncl.com or contact your travel agent

A D V E RT I S I N G F E AT U R E

WHY BOOK WITH NCL?

PICTURES: JIM HUGHES; DANNY LEHMAN/NCL

n Fly-cruise package: book a hasslefree holiday where everything is included: check-in bags, flights from regional airports, port transfers and a pre-cruise hotel night if needed. You’ll have peace of mind knowing that if flights are delayed, we’ll arrange an alternative for you.

FEATURED JOURNEYS Mediterranean: Italy, France & Spain from Barcelona Norwegian Epic

7 days, Apr-Sep 2022 Admire Gaudi’s architectural masterpieces in Barcelona, then soak up the sun on a voyage to visit Napoleon’s home in Corsica, the grand piazzas of Naples, the famous art galleries of Florence and the chic shores of Cannes. Inside from £525 per person, Balcony from £645 (departing May 15).**

Greek Isles: Santorini, Mykonos & Istanbul from Athens Norwegian Jade

n Free at Sea packages: upgrade your holiday with an incredible-value tailormade package. For just £99 per person, you’ll receive ALL applicable add-ons, including open bar, speciality dining, shore excursion credit and Wi-Fi, plus reduced rates for extra guests.

7 days, Apr-Oct 2022, May-Oct 2023 Sail through the sun-kissed islands of Greece, taking in the Acropolis in Athens, Ephesus in Turkey and the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, then kick back among the whitewashed houses and beaches of Mykonos, Rhodes and Santorini. Inside from £695 per person, Balcony from £1,129 (departing May 15).**

n Sail Safe: cruise with confidence knowing enhanced onboard protocols are in place, including full vaccination for guests (aged 12 and over) and crew, testing, ship-wide sanitation and medical-grade air filters, so you can focus on enjoying your holiday.

11 days, Jun-Aug 2023, May-Sep 2024 Combine the best cultural highlights of Belgium and the Netherlands – from baroque buildings in Bruges to the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam – with the best of Scandinavian scenery, comparing the calm Norwegian fjords and the active volcanoes of Iceland. And if all that isn’t enough, enjoy the upgraded onboard experience of Norwegian Prima, the first in a new class of ships for NCL. Inside from £1,770 per person, Balcony from £2,765 (departing June 4, 2023).**

Northern Europe: Iceland & Norway to Reykjavik from Southampton Norwegian Prima

TERMS AND CONDITIONS *New qualifying bookings made for any open for sale 3+ night sailings made by April 29, 2022, for individual FIT reservations and newly created qualifying groups (delegates with names) for all stateroom categories. Free at Sea upgrade charge depends on cruise length – £99pp for cruises of 7-9 days. Third and fourth guests pay taxes only on select sailings, and only valid where first and second guests pay full fare. 35% cruise and fly-cruise discount applies to total cruise-only fare and flight cost of all guests subject to exceptions below. All offers: limits, conditions, restrictions and exclusions apply. Single occupants paying 200% of voyage fare qualify. £250 per person air credit applies to first and second guests (including single guests) on reservation in all stateroom categories for new individual FIT reservations only for all open for sale Europe 2022 sailings (excluding Norwegian Star and Norwegian Prima). Air credit applied against cost of flights selected at the time of booking using NCL’s interactive air only. Fly-cruise bookings only, not applicable to cruise-only. Not applicable to any other guests on the booking or to child or infant prices. Offer is capacity controlled and can be withdrawn at any time. **Lead prices are shown in £GBP and based on cruise-only, dual occupancy including government taxes, port expenses and fees. NCL reserves the right to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions and to change or update fares, fees and surcharges at any time without prior notice. Full terms and booking conditions available at ncl.com. NCL (Bahamas) Ltd, UK Office, Mountbatten House, Grosvenor Square, Southampton, SO15 2JU. ©2022 NCL Corporation Ltd. Ships’ Registry: Bahamas and USA.

PICTURE: LUCIA GRIGGI

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G A L A PAG O S

POINT of ORIGIN Wildlife wonders are never far away in the Galapagos, discovers Jeannine Williamson on a new luxury cruise ship

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G A L A PAG O S

s I gaze down at the kaleidoscope of neon-bright yellowtail surgeonfish, I’m aware of a sudden movement to my right. The only thing that stops me gasping aloud is the snorkel mouthpiece clamped firmly between my teeth. A sleek Galapagos sea lion has dived into the water right next to me and with its head cocked to one side, the creature observes its inept and infinitely less streamlined swim buddy with a pair of quizzical, large brown eyes. Having seen enough, it twists effortlessly away and heads through the clear depths towards the reef below. Three more follow and as one brushes past a fellow snorkeller, it’s evident that our strict rule of keeping at least six feet away from animals doesn’t apply in reverse. We pop our heads back above the surface, and our guide Marco explains that the most frequently seen marine mammal in the Galapagos is both playful and inquisitive, particularly the juveniles in the colony that we’ve just encountered. Like all creatures in this wildlife wonderland, sea lions are not threatened by humans so they have no fear. It’s a win-win situation for all concerned. We clamber into the waiting Zodiac and as we speed back to our ship, Silversea’s new purpose-built vessel Silver Origin, there’s excited chatter about the latest extraordinary encounter, one of many during our weeklong expedition voyage. The Galapagos is known as a bucket-list destination for good reason, because it really is like nowhere else on Earth.

PICTURES: LUCIA GRIGGI; JORGE PRIGANN

THIS IS A BUCKET-LIST DESTINATION LIKE NOWHERE ELSE ON EARTH

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While it first gained global attention when Spanish sailors visited in 1535, the archipelago of 127 islands, islets and rocks has been carved and shaped over some five million years by volcanic eruptions – which continue today – and this vast geological timescale means each one is completely different. One day we marvel at beaches the colour of cocoa powder, the next we walk on snow-white sand. Soaring cliffs topped by greenery rub shoulders with flat, black lava landscapes dotted with improbably bright flowers that cling to the stark terrain. It was English naturalist Charles Darwin who brought the islands to prominence when he visited aboard the scientific exploration vessel HMS Beagle. In 1835 he spent six weeks studying birds and animals on the islands scattered 600 miles off the Ecuadorian coastline and in 1859 published his revolutionary book On the Origin of Species. Challenging commonly held beliefs with his ‘survival of the fittest’ theory, Darwin’s new understanding of evolution showed how the species that are most adaptable are the ones that stand the test of time. His ideas were graphically illustrated on every step of our round-trip voyage from San Cristóbal. There are 19 large islands in the Galapagos, of which only four are inhabited, namely San Cristóbal, Isabela, Floreana and Santa Cruz. In 1959 the region was declared a national 8

Clockwise, from top left: Silver Origin’s marina platform makes it easy to get on and off Zodiacs; the view over Playa Dorada and Pinnacle Rock, Bartolomé; colourful flamingos; the Basecamp hub; an inquisitive sea lion CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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G A L A PAG O S

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park and, aside from the quartet of populated islands, the joy is in seeing completely unchanged landscapes and seascapes through Darwin’s eyes. Landings by passengers on cruise ships and day-trip boats are stringently controlled, with only one allowed at a time, and they are all led by naturalist guides. Additionally, we went ashore from Silver Origin in very small groups, so even though the ship carries up to 100 guests, we never felt rushed or crowded. Over our week-long sailing to the western isles, we made seven landings for walking tours and visited the same number of sites on Zodiac, kayaking and snorkelling trips (with a beginner or refresher snorkelling lesson from the beach so everyone could participate). We could even take home the masks, though unless I go back to the Galapagos, I will never use it for anything that comes close to my unforgettable outings in those warm, wildlife-rich waters. Of the 9,000 species of flora and fauna on the islands, many are unique to the land and sea of the archipelago and some are as strange as they are astonishing. On our first sea snorkel off the rugged Vicente Roca Point, dotted with sea caves, there is the incongruous sight of a penguin that dives arrow-straight into the water in search of small fish. Originally swept over from Antarctica on the Humboldt Current, like many birds and animals that arrived by

PICTURES: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/JESSE KRAFT; LUCIA GRIGGI; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/SEBASTIEN LECOCQ

BLUE-FOOTED BOOBIES ARE OBLIVIOUS TO US FLOATING PAPARAZZI prevailing ocean streams and winds, it turned out to be a one-way ticket. With no means of getting back, the penguins had to acclimatise to a dramatically different home. They have less plumage then their cold-weather forebears and adopt a leaning-forward stance to protect their feet from the sun, as well as holding out their wings to further reduce their body temperature. As our Zodiac hugs the coastline, a flock of one of the archipelago’s most instantly recognisable feathered residents comes into view. Like all the birds we see throughout the week, the blue-footed boobies pose on the rocks oblivious to the floating paparazzi clicking just a few feet away. Their dazzling webbed feet are a result of pigments from their diet and are eye-catching in more ways than one. During the courtship ritual, males impress females with an extravagant high-stepping display that shows off their feet to the best advantage. The brighter their feet, the more chance they have of attracting a mate. Further on is another quirk of Mother Nature’s grand design for survival. The flightless cormorants look ungainly hopping from rock to rock and extending their stumpy wings for balance to reach the water. Endemic to the Galapagos and with few predators, they no longer need to fly so have metamorphosed into sleek diving machines hunting at up to 25 feet below the surface of the water for more than a minute at a time. Land hikes, usually early in the morning to avoid the heat of the day, reveal more marvels. Hundreds of dragonlike marine iguanas bask on Espinoza Point, Fernandina, 8

Clockwise, from top left: Silver Origin approaches Kicker Rock; a stretch of beach on Bartolomé; a Nazca booby; Galapagos penguins have acclimatised to their new home; the week-long sailing included activities such as snorkelling and kayaking trips CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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MY BIG MOMENT IS MEETING GIANT TORTOISES ON SANTA CRUZ where their soporific stupor is occasionally broken by females digging nests in the sand. At Cerro Dragon, on Santa Cruz, we get to see their spectacular golden land-based counterparts. It’s hard to pick a single highlight, but my big moment, in every sense, is meeting the giant tortoises on Santa Cruz. Once almost hunted to extinction by 19th-century sailors as a food source that could be kept alive on ships for months without any food or water, they now lumber along unhindered and can look forward to slow-motion lifespans of more than 100 years. Back on Silver Origin, we have plenty of our own creature comforts. The new vessel is Silversea Cruises’ firstever destination-specific ship. Designed to sail year-round in the Galapagos, it has been created to fit the destination and provide guests with an unforgettable experience. There’s a big marina platform to facilitate getting on and off the eight Zodiacs with ease. Unlike regular cruise ships, Silver Origin never moors in any ports and all its fuel, food, supplies – and passengers – arrive by sea. So although there are always crew members to lend a hand, you do need a reasonable degree of fitness to make the most of the trip. Wetsuits, flippers and other water sports equipment are provided and I appreciated the advance list with tips on what to pack. Unlike traditional cruises you don’t need to bring any dressy clothes because despite being a luxury ship, the onboard vibe is relaxed and casual. A central hub is Basecamp with a big LED screen showing informative footage about the Galapagos. Here you can also chat to members of the expedition team, all of whom are passionate about the islands and have an encyclopaedic knowledge. Indeed, all crew members are Ecuadorian and more than 50% of the food is sourced from the islands, with local specialities showcased on the menu. This makes it even more of an authentic experience. As we reluctantly disembark in San Cristobal, we gaze at yet another example of how wildlife has adapted. Snoozing sea lions lounge on public benches, blissfully unaware of us as we walk past. This really is another world.

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/LF PUNTEL

GETTING THERE

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Silversea Cruises offers year-round, seven-day alternating round-trip San Cristóbal cruises to the western and north-central Galapagos Islands, including home-to-airport transfers (up to 50 miles), flights, drinks, excursions, onboard gratuities and Wi-Fi. A sailing departing September 3 starts from £9,300 per person, also available cruise-only from £6,450. For more information or to book, visit silversea.com Read more about expedition cruises to the Galapagos Islands online at cruise-international.com Clockwise, from top left: Writer Jeannine Williamson meeting a giant tortoise; bathroom of Deluxe Veranda Suite; Superior Veranda Suite; Silver Origin’s Observation Lounge; a turtle swims majestically across a dense school of fish CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

G A L A PAG O S

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MEMPHIS

City guide

There are plenty of reasons to get all shook up in Memphis, Tennessee’s most soulful music city, says Zoey Goto

ituated on the banks of the mighty Mississippi

stop-off at Elvis Presley’s Graceland to pay your

River, Memphis is a medium-sized American

respects to The King. Here, you’ll wander through

city with a larger-than-life reputation.

Elvis’s wonderfully theatrical home, including the

Offering a heady combination of barbecue,

notorious Jungle Room lounge complete with shagpile

blues and Elvis Presley, the city has been attracting

wallpaper, before being dropped off at the recently

visitors like a magnet for decades.

added complex of shops, restaurants and museums to

But Memphis has recently regenerated many of its neighbourhoods, adding new hotels and attractions

admire the wonder of his bedazzling jumpsuits. Hip swivel across town to Sun Studio, the hit

into the mix. And with Viking announcing the launch

factory that brought us the first rock ’n’ roll single in

of its first US river cruise between New Orleans and

1951 with the release of Rocket 88. This small but

Memphis, there’s never been a better time to discover

mighty recording studio launched the careers of B.B.

the Bluff City’s charms.

King, Johnny Cash and Elvis and you’ll even get a lip-curling photo-op with their original microphone.

What to see

Any Memphis musical heritage trail should also

For an all-singing, whistle-stop tour to understand the

include a pitstop at the Stax Museum to explore

music history of Memphis, hop on board the vintage

the dawn of soul music at this movie theatre

Backbeat Tours bus. Local musicians lead the tours,

turned hugely influential recording studio, which

cruising around the city’s highlights while singing

has Isaac Hayes’ outrageously flamboyant gold-plated

spirited renditions of Memphis’s greatest hits. But be

Cadillac on display.

warned, crowd participation and tambourine shaking are actively encouraged! Many of the Backbeat Tours also include a

Over in the historic South Main district, you’ll find the must-visit National Civil Rights Museum, encompassing the original Lorraine Motel where Bottom row, from left: Graceland Mansion; The King’s dazzling attire; Sun Studios; International Blues Challenge; Bishop brasserie at the Central Station Hotel; neon lights of Beale Street

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CITY GUIDE

Martin Luther King was assassinated, with galleries sensitively guiding visitors through five centuries of civil rights struggles.

Where to stay Situated in the heart of Downtown, the Peabody hotel has been a Memphis icon since opening in 1869 and visitors still flock here for the twice-daily parade of ducks waddling through the lobby. A little further from the bustle of Downtown, the recently opened Central Station Hotel has

the legendary bluesman Blind Mississippi Morris and the Eric Hughes Band. Lafayette’s is a bustling music joint and

transformed a former Amtrak station into a stylish

restaurant in Overton Square, with a particular

hotel, surrounded by local cafes and bars in the

emphasis on jazz, blues and country. In the

revitalised South Main district. Nearby you’ll find

summer months, the Overton Park Shell outdoor

Southern cuisine elevated to fine dining standards at

amphitheatre hosts live concerts, many of which

Rizzo’s by Michael Patrick and sharing platters of

are free to attend. Bring a picnic blanket and let the

mouth-watering pulled pork at Central BBQ.

good times roll!

While in the South Main district, stop off at the

PICTURES: MEMPHIS TOURISM; GETTY IMAGES/ ISTOCKPHOTO/F11PHOTO; CRAIG THOMPSON; AMON FOCUS/BRAND USA; JUSTIN FOX BURKS; ELVIS PRESLEY’S GRACELAND; ANDREA ZUCKER; DUSTIN WILLIAMS; DAVID MEANY/CONTIKI PURCHASE

Main image: B.B. King’s Blues Club Top row, from left: National Civil Rights Museum; Beale Street; Peabody ducks; The Bar-B-Q Shop; Lafayette’s

beautiful Arcade Restaurant, a retro diner beloved

Getting there

by Elvis where you can enjoy a peanut butter and

British Airways, Virgin Atlantic and

banana sandwich in his favourite booth. For lip-

American Airlines fly to Memphis, with

smacking ribs fit for an actual king, head to Charlie

one change. American Queen Voyages

Vergos’ Rendezvous, a barbecue institution where

and American Cruise Lines both

Princes Harry and William once dined.

include Memphis in itineraries and Viking Cruises is launching its Heart

Nightlife

of the Delta voyage in June, between

The first stop for those seeking unbeatable live music

New Orleans and Memphis.

is Beale Street, America’s most famous songful street. Dubbed the home of the blues, Beale Street has been

For more city guides and

the place to hear live music since gaining notoriety in

destination news, go to

the Roaring Twenties. Acts to watch out for include

cruise-international.com

RED SEA

Shifting

SANDS

From the heights of the Treasury at Petra to the depths of the wildlife-rich Red Sea, Sue Bryant explores the best of Egypt and Jordan by ship 70

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PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/KONOPLYTSKA; ALEXANDRE SATTLER

Opposite page: Scuba diving on the coral reefs This page: The Treasury at Petra

Above: The trail to the High Place of Sacrifice, Petra Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Port of Aqaba; Ras Mohamed Nature Reserve; masked butterfly fish; Citadel of Saladin, Pharaoh’s Island in the Gulf of Aqaba; Karnak Temple, Luxor

’ve climbed up as far as I can on the steep trail to the High Place of Sacrifice. Far below me, tourists, Bedouin, camels and donkeys mill around the ancient site of Petra. Up here, though, it’s silent, apart from the rustle of the wind in scrubby bushes. The rocky desert stretches into the distance, its jagged chasms and rose-pink rock faces absorbing the facades of the city, built in the third century BC by the Nabateans. I savour the moment, away from the crowds. I’m on a week-long cruise from the Egyptian resort of Hurghada, sailing up the long finger of the Gulf of Aqaba to Jordan. We’ll spend two nights at Aqaba for visits to Petra and Wadi Rum, as well as a couple of days in Hurghada and one in Sharm el-Sheikh for some beach time. This is a new itinerary for French-owned CroisiEurope, a company better known for its wide range of European river cruises. As well as riverboats and canal cruisers, the company has two ocean-going ships. The 197-passenger La Belle de L’Adriatique spends summer in Croatia, but this winter it’s been exploring the Red Sea for the first time. Our little ship is a welcome sight when we arrive at Hurghada following a busy couple of days exploring the sights of Cairo. It’s like a cocoon after the crazy traffic, | M AY/J U N E 2022

the hustlers and the bureaucracy that come hand in hand with travel in Egypt. Following a refit in 2017, the ship is kitted out in soothing, muted colours. The crew members are beaming and the soft vocals of Tabaré, a young guitarist who plays every day, waft out of the lounge. There’s an open bar, too, which my fellow passengers are already enjoying. There are 75 of us on board, almost all from France and Belgium, and as such, the language of the ship is French, though with a more international crowd on board the tours would be conducted in English as well. I dig deep to revive my rusty conversational skills and, sure enough, by the end of the first day I’m already dreaming in French. Hurghada is buzzing with winter sun-seekers and every day a fleet of yellow semi-submersible craft heads out to the coral reefs for which the Red Sea is famous. This is one of the tours offered by CroisiEurope and given that the water is too cold for the snorkelling I had planned, I’m on board. We drift over the coral, sitting in blue-green light at the bottom of the boat, everyone marvelling at the proliferation of bright yellow butterfly fish and shimmering turquoise parrot fish. To my excitement, a small ray glides gracefully 8 over the coral heads. CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/GARGOLAS/RICH CAREY/REPINA VALERIYA; SHUTTERSTOCK/RUSLAN HARUTYUNOV/STANISLAV YEMETS

RED SEA

WE DRIFT OVER THE CORAL, E V E RYO N E MARVELLING AT B R I G H T YELLOW PA R R O T F I S H

I’M LOUNGING IN THE HOT TUB, CONSIDERING A MARTINI, AS SALMON PINK STREAKS THE SKY AND THE CALL T O P R AY E R ECHOES OUT

PICTURES: CROISIEUROPE/MUAMER MUJEVIC; FRANTISEK ZVARDON; OLVER ASMUSSEN; ALEXANDRE SATTLER; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/MONTICELLO

RED SEA

The following day there’s an excursion to Luxor which, I have to confess, I skip, having been there many times. I feel slightly guilty but instead spend a blissful day reading in the sun, enjoying an excellent Provençal rosé with lunch and mooching around town. I’m lounging in the hot tub on deck considering a martini as salmon pink streaks the sky and the evening call to prayer echoes out from dozens of minarets. The adventurers arrive back at 9pm, dusty and tired but euphoric, and this is where the cultural differences between British and French cruisers become clear. Whereas Brits would most likely raid the buffet and head straight to the bar, my French travelling companions settle down for a full, served three-course meal with decent French wines. I love the dedication on board to civilised dining. Fresh croissants and pots of tea and coffee are waiting on my table every morning for breakfast. Lunch and dinner are both fixed three-course menus: tournedos de boeuf, an intense mushroom soup, suckling pig, an exquisite tarte tatin and chocolate mousse. Chef Alan makes delicious meat-free dishes for me, too, from falafels to a delicate sea bass. The bar is kept busy all day, but evenings remain low-key, possibly as we’re all tired from sightseeing. I’m happy to go to bed early. My cabin is compact, with a picture window CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

and nicely done out in shades of cream and pale gold. La Belle de l’Adriatique sets sail for our first port, Sharm el-Sheikh, perched near the point of the Sinai peninsula. This is the only disappointment of the trip as again it’s too cold for snorkelling and there’s not a lot else to do. If you’re set on snorkelling, which is especially good here in Ras Mohamed Nature Reserve, aim to travel in warmer months. Jordan is the real prize on this itinerary and there’s a celebratory mood as we prepare to head north from Sharm through the Gulf of Aqaba. A belly dancer and a whirling dervish brought on before lunch shimmy and spin around the top deck as champagne flows. Later, I lounge in the warm afternoon sun. On one side of the narrow gulf, I can see the luxurious hotels along the Egyptian coast. Rocky islands line the middle of the channel, the occasional yacht moored in a shimmering turquoise lagoon. To starboard, the mountains and deserts of Saudi Arabia glow as the shadows lengthen. Jordan is completely different from Egypt: more organised, and with a much more prosperous feel. Petra, where we spend the first day, has changed since my last visit, with a gleaming new visitor centre and a contemporary museum telling the story of the site. The walk through 8 M AY/J U N E 2022 |

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Upper Deck Double Cabin; cod was among the fish dishes served on board; outdoor hot tubs; the ship’s sun deck; docked in Hurghada Above: Sharm el-Sheikh

Above: Wadi Rum, Jordan Opposite: Mosque and harbour, Hurghada

the Siq, the long, towering canyon that leads to the dazzling façade of the Treasury, is as thrilling as ever, with every jaw dropping as we round the last rocky bend for the great reveal. Some places you’ve seen before in a thousand photos and films are an anti-climax. Petra is the opposite. Wadi Rum, too, is extraordinary. We drive across a landscape vibrant with colour: rust, pink and gold. Rose-red sandstone is striped with crazed swirls of black and green granite and the cliffs resemble golden honeycomb. A row of 4x4s is waiting and we bump off into the great canyon in convoy, hurtling over red dunes, whooping and yelling. Countless films have been made here: Dune, Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker, The Martian and, of course, Lawrence of Arabia. We stop to look at 5,000-year-old rock inscriptions and a small carving of TE Lawrence’s face from 1917. Wadi Rum is dotted with desert camps and the cars pull up at the Captain’s Camp for lunch, which is superb: roast aubergine, beans with harissa, lamb-stuffed pita and flatbreads warm from a stone oven. After lunch, we lounge on low-slung sofas, drinking mint tea around a crackling fire. But the sky has darkened. As we leave, great clouds of sand block out the sun, spinning like | M AY/J U N E 2022

dervishes across the desert and forming drifts in the road. Watching the sandstorm, despite the grit in our eyes and cameras, is fascinating. I’m almost sorry to see the minarets of Hurghada piercing the horizon the following morning as we arrive back at base. This has been a trip packed with bucket-list experiences – and it’s an easy, stress-free way to string together these extraordinary sights, with superb food and good company into the bargain.

GETTING THERE An eight-day cruise, Treasures on the Red Sea – Egypt and Jordan, with CroisiEurope starts from £1,857 per person departing on November 26 and December 3 and 10. The price includes a round-trip sailing from Hurghada with all meals and drinks, some excursions and port fees, but excludes flights. To book, visit croisieurope.co.uk Read more about the Red Sea at cruise-international.com CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/CREATIVE DREAM/UGURHAN BETIN

RED SEA

The Moselle River, Germany

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PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/JAN WEHNERT

City break lovers should identify key cities they want to visit and then look at river cruise options as you can often combine several in one trip. For example, on the Danube you can enjoy Vienna, Budapest, Bratislava and more, all by only unpacking once and with the hassle taken out of travelling between. My favourite is the Moselle River in autumn when it is at its most atmospheric. The grape harvest takes place in September and October and the vineyards along the banks of the river are so colourful as the leaves change colour. The entire Moselle Valley becomes a living postcard that is so relaxing to watch as you sail by, and many of the vineyards welcome you in like you are a member of their own family.

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LUCIA ROWE, UK & IRELAND MANAGING DIRECTOR, A-ROSA RIVER CRUISES

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RIVER CRUISE TIPS

IN FULL ﬂow Sailings have begun in earnest on many of the world’s great waterways, so there’s never been a better time to try a river cruise. We ask industry experts what you need to know before embarking on your first river adventure

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THE ART OF MAKING YOU FEEL AT HOME

THE WIDEST VIEW IN THE WHOLE WIDE WORLD

We deliver exquisite service that’s professional, courteous, and informative. Our approach is never stuffy but creates an atmosphere of relaxed luxury.

No other fleet of river cruise ships offers you a view of the world like Avalon Suite Ships. There’s nothing between you and the view.

THE AVALON TOUCH IN EVERY DETAIL Call 0330 808 4754 Visit avalonwaterways.co.uk Visit your Travel Agent

THE DINING OPTIONS YOU CRAVE

CRUISE YOUR WAY

À la carte, four-course dinners, Continental breakfasts, or al fresco lunch at the Sky Grill. We always set the table using fresh, quality ingredients prepared by expert chefs.

Borrow a bicycle from the ship for a picnic on shore or glide through the Rhine Gorge in a kayak. Whichever way you wish to spend your day, you’ll find activities that speak to you.

RIVER CRUISE TIPS

PICTURE: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO/SILVAN BACHMANN

Hungarian parliament building, Budapest

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River cruising is a serene and relaxing way to travel – no waves, just quietly and comfortably making your way between cities and towns, admiring the views along the way. The most attractive thing for me, regardless of which river or itinerary you choose, is the variety; all itineraries feature cities and lesser-known little gems, plus scenic areas, some of which are Unesco-rated. Even at night there can be great photo opportunities, such as when passing the brightly illuminated Hungarian parliament building in Budapest – stunning!

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The highlight for me is the destinations. To get the most out of the destination excursions, do some reading about the specific stops en route, and if you like social media, invest in a phone with the best camera. It’s easy to take great photos and there will be plenty to see along the way.

Many first-time river cruise clients are put off by the terminology, but a river cruise is really more akin to an escorted tour (without the coach) on a floating boutique hotel. You can be as social or as private as you want. Ask yourself when you would like to go – a spring cruise on the Moselle is very different to a late-autumn one, while a Mekong cruise is best from November to January. Are you travelling to celebrate a birthday or wedding anniversary with family or friends, or is it a quick holiday with a partner? A trip with two or three generations means bikes, a pool and other adventures, while a solo trip to look for peace and quiet – perhaps to finish a novel or to pursue an interest in golf, music or architecture – can be arranged without single supplements. And there’s no need to despair if you don’t fly as there are European sailings easily done by rail, car or even as a foot passenger on a cross-Channel ferry.

JOHN WARR, GROUP MANAGING DIRECTOR, TRAVEL VILLAGE GROUP

JAMES HILL, GORIVERCRUISE.COM

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MARK SAGE, SENIOR CRUISE COMMERCIAL MANAGER, TUI RIVER CRUISES

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RIVER CRUISE TIPS

Rheinstein Castle on the banks of the River Rhine, Germany

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River sailings are a great introduction to cruising. They tend to be shorter and the ships are significantly smaller, so they are a great option for a first-time cruiser. The smaller number of guests makes them more intimate, meaning they are also perfect for a solo traveller who may find a larger ocean cruise more intimidating when travelling alone. River cruises are a great way to immerse yourself in a country’s culture and explore some real hidden gems.

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ANDREW IWASYSZYN, HEAD OF RIVER AND THIRD-PARTY CRUISING, SAGA HOLIDAYS

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My top destination is Cologne. From the moment you float into the city on a Rhine cruise, you’ll spot the towering spires of the cathedral – once the tallest building in the world. Our Scenic space-ships dock right in the heart of Cologne, giving guests as much time as possible to explore this fascinating historic city. One of my favourite things to do there is shop like a local – a unique ‘Veedel’ tour will take you to the lesser-known shopping districts, an area not regularly visited by tourists. Filled with markets, boutiques and independent stores aplenty, this is the perfect way to get to grips with an alternative, more local side of Cologne.

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Look at taking a shorter cruise to begin with – our ﬁve-night Tulips and Windmills cruise is a perfect choice for a ﬁrst river cruise holiday. Enjoy spending time chatting with your fellow travellers – cruising is very sociable and you’ll have time to spend with new-found friends, perhaps joining in one of the onboard activities or sharing a drink in the lounge.

JENNY WADE, UK ACCOUNT MANAGER, AMADEUS RIVER CRUISES

ROB STAPLEY, CRUISE PRODUCT MANAGER, TITAN TRAVEL

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NICHOLA ABSALOM, DIRECTOR GLOBAL BRAND AND MARKETING, SCENIC

People often make the mistake of thinking a river cruise is expensive, but in many cases it represents fantastic value for money when you look at all the inclusions. We include five-star accommodation, all meals on board, beer, wine and soft drinks with lunch and dinner, tea and coffee, Wi-Fi and use of all facilities, including bicycles. It would be very difficult to do a seven-night city break for the same cost, and this isn’t just one city! I love river cruising on the Rhine – it has a great combination of iconic cities and quaint towns and villages, scenic cruising in the breathtakingly beautiful Upper Middle Rhine Valley and, most importantly, the region’s wines are fabulous!

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Christmas market in Basel, Switzerland

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/VIDEO MEDIA STUDIO EUROPE; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/JUERGEN SACK

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The Rhine is still one of my all-time favourite river cruises. It’s where my love of cruising began nearly 30 years ago with its majestic landscapes, fairytale castles, cathedrals, fortresses and historic towns and villages. The scenery along the Middle Rhine, which is a Unesco World Heritage Site, is absolutely spectacular. One of the most overlooked destinations on the Rhine is Basel – it is a fascinating city that sits right where the French, German and Swiss borders meet and can easily be explored by foot. One aspect I particularly love about river cruising is that you get a glimpse of local life along the riverbanks, and in Basel lots of local residents commute to work by swimming or rowing with their clothes in a waterproof pack, which is fun to watch. Make sure you choose a ship with plenty of outdoor space to make the most of the views – and the people-watching. This winter we have a new festive cruise, Christmas on the Rhine, to see Basel’s medieval Old Town transformed into a magical Yuletide wonderland. We are already seeing a high level of demand from our UK guests so it’s going to be a popular itinerary. WENDY ATKIN-SMITH, UK MANAGING DIRECTOR, VIKING CRUISES

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RIVER CRUISE TIPS

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My favourite region to cruise is the Rhone. The food, the views, the weather, the wine and the people all combine to make it the perfect destination for me, and by adding Paris at one end and Nice at the other it can be turned into an amazing 10-day holiday. On a river cruise, pretty much everything is included so you can choose excursions, have drinks at lunch and dinner, films in your stateroom, gratuities, bikes and walking poles all within the price you pay. You can be as active or as relaxed as you like – the cruise director and adventure hosts can help you make the most of your holiday in whatever way suits you.

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PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/CRISTINA A; PHILIP GAMMON

GILES HAWKE, UK CHIEF EXECUTIVE, AVALON WATERWAYS

Port of Nice, southern France 84

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Cologne

CHRISTMAS MARKETS OF THE RHINE 5 DAY RIVER CRUISE FROM £895pp

Experience the spirit of Christmas on the Rhine, discovering fairytale Germany at the most magical time of the year. Renowned Christmas markets, the natural beauty of the Rhine Gorge and a host of festive treats await.

London

Rüdesheim

Cologne

UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES

Cologne

WHAT’S INCLUDED

Visit the Christmas markets of Rüdesheim, Bonn and Cologne Discover the twinkling lights and enticing aromas of Germany’s Christmas markets, each with their own unique twist on this age-old, festive tradition.

4 nights of relaxed luxury on board your Amadeus ship

Seasonal celebrations Get in the festive mood with mulled wine, carol singing and a spectacular festive gala dinner on board that serves up both German and British Christmas treats.

Daily excursions led by local guides

Sail through the Rhine Gorge This geological monument has been the inspiration for countless legends throughout the years, and, at this time of year, is surrounded by glorious winter scenery.

Bonn

Koblenz

London

2022 DEPARTURES Dec 2 from £895 Dec 5 from £895

Fully escorted return rail travel from London St Pancras

AMADEUS FLEET Our 5-star Amadeus ships boast impressive on-board facilities, including a ﬁtness room, a hairdresser and spa. There’s also a panoramic lounge and bar where you can relax, admiring the scenery as you cruise gently by.

5-Star dining and drinks package with dinner Your choice of spacious cabin UK Tour Manager and Cruise Director On-board entertainment

Order your free brochure now Call 01904 734194 • Visit GreatRail.com/RLM TRAVEL SAFE

49 YEARS OF EXPERTISE

FULLY ESCORTED

Working with our partners to make sure you feel safe

With ﬁve decades of experience at our ﬁngertips we’ll ensure your holiday goes without a hitch

Professional UK Tour Manager with you from start to ﬁnish

Protected by ABTOT. Dates and prices are subject to availability. Prices shown are per person, based on 2 people sharing. Prices may change prior to and after publication.

Keukenhof Gardens, Netherlands

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A rail and river cruise holiday delivers the perfect mix of relaxation and enjoying the sights, with your floating hotel taking you to new places every day. A personal favourite of mine is Keukenhof Gardens in the Netherlands, which you can experience via a river cruise between late March and May when the flowers are in breathtaking bloom. Keukenhof is described as the ‘most beautiful spring garden in the world’ and I hear that echoed back from our passengers year after year. ANDY HAWKE, CRUISE PRODUCT MANAGER, GREAT RAIL JOURNEYS

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RIVER CRUISE TIPS

Restaurant in Avignon, France

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Pack comfortable walking shoes – many of the immersive excursions on a river cruise are on foot, and they’re to places that can’t be missed. I’d also take a good book to enjoy while relaxing on the top deck and watching the world drift past as you sail on your chosen river. My favourite place on a river cruise is Avignon on the Rhone – history, culture, architecture, food and wine all in one beautiful, easily walkable setting.

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JOHN FAIR, UK SALES DIRECTOR, CROISIEUROPE

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River cruising is an incredible way to visit multiple destinations on one holiday because you awake each morning in a new city and, because we dock in the heart of the city, you simply step ashore and begin your discovery. Your cruise director is your friend in the location, and their local knowledge is unsurpassed. I’d recommend guests use them as a sounding board for the best things to do in each destination, so that when combined with the included sightseeing, you are getting the best out of each place you visit, and able to maximise free activity time and spend it on your personal passions. For anyone nervous about a return to travel post-pandemic, river cruising is a fantastic way to holiday and we take care of every detail.

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PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/LIU XIAOYANG; GETTY IMAGES/ ISTOCK/KENNETH WIEDEMANN; MILA PAIRAN

PAUL MELINIS, MANAGING DIRECTOR UK & EUROPE, APT AND TRAVELMARVEL

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River cruises are calm, relaxing and there’s always something to see on shore. They’re different from a city break or a road trip as passengers just need to unpack once and explore multiple cities in a short space of time. I’m a big fan of the Rhone River, as it’s always warm and sunny, as well as the Danube as it offers endless nature experiences.

Cruising the Danube is absolutely incredible, with wonderful scenery and a variety of interesting places to visit. Bratislava is a real highlight – it’s less well known than Budapest but there’s so much to see with its pedestrian-only Old Town full of historic buildings, cobbled streets and squares, not to mention the impressive castle and suspension bridge. River cruise ships are small compared with ocean vessels, so those travelling for the first time should expect an intimate experience where they will quickly become familiar with other passengers and crew. Expect a more casual and relaxed atmosphere on board too, usually without a strict dress code apart from the occasional gala dinner or special event.

ANDREA KRUSE, CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER, VIVA CRUISES

TIM FLEMING, SALES AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER, ARENA RIVER CRUISES

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RIVER CRUISE TIPS

The Danube, Djerdap Gorge, Serbia

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Book early, especially as we emerge from the pandemic. Our guests have waited a long time to travel, and in many cases they have saved money, so they want to travel further, for longer and in style. If that sounds like you, get in quick to avoid disappointment, because those top-category suites are being booked out on multiple cruises, back-toback, as guests look to rediscover the joy of travel.

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CHRIS TOWNSON, MANAGING DIRECTOR, UNIWORLD BOUTIQUE RIVER CRUISES

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River cruise cabins can be every bit as luxurious as a room in a five-star boutique hotel. All are beautifully appointed and include a comfortable hotel-style bed that can also be set up as twin beds, as well as deluxe en-suite bathrooms. Our cabins include a French balcony or window, so you can admire the ever-changing scenery from the comfort of your room, plus everything guests need for a fantastic luxury river cruise experience is in the up-front booking prices. This means it’s easy to budget for your holiday, because the price will cover costs including flights, transfers, tours with expert guides and full-board.

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PHILL HULLAH, CHIEF EXECUTIVE, RIVIERA TRAVEL

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DAVID WINTERTON, GLOBAL DIRECTOR OF BRAND AND MARKETING, EMERALD CRUISES

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Speak to your expert travel agent because there are lots of river cruise lines that aren’t consumer-facing brands but work directly with travel agents. You need to have a good understanding of what’s included within the cost of the river cruise because it’s all about the value. Agents understand the rules and regulations and can give you the best advice and the best value, and make sure you get the product that suits you.

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JAMIE LOIZOU, UK MANAGING DIRECTOR, AMAWATERWAYS

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PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/ DJELIC S/PHOTOSERVICE; GREG PETERSON

My biggest tip for anybody looking to book their first river cruise is to do your research both on the destination and the cruise line. As with all holidays, there is a wide choice. Destination-wise, each river offers something entirely different with vastly different experiences. You may be wine lovers so choose the Rhone in France or Moselle in central Europe. You may love history or culture, so head to the Danube or the Rhine. And as for the cruise line, consider how you like to holiday. Do you want luxury, contemporary or traditional surroundings? If you are quite active, look for cruise lines that promote wellness – our onboard activity managers run EmeraldACTIVE hikes, biking and yoga, along with aqua-aerobics in our unique indoor pool.

RIVER CRUISE TIPS

French Quarter, New Orleans

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My favourite river has to be the mighty Mississippi. There is something for everyone – music, culture, history, food and wine. From cities such as New Orleans and Memphis to the beautiful antebellum mansions full of history and culture in Nottoway and Natchez, not forgetting civil war heritage in Vicksburg. And you can travel almost any time of year from February through to December. River cruising can be as busy and fast-paced or as relaxing and gentle as you want it to be. You can take advantage of organised shore excursions or simply wander and explore independently at your own pace, knowing that your ship is always close to hand.

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MICHELLE DANIELS, UK & EUROPE COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR, LIGHT BLUE TRAVEL (REPRESENTING AMERICAN QUEEN VOYAGES AND NICKO CRUISES)

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PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/SIBERIAN ART

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S U S TA I N A B L E S H I P S

Shipping

forecast

Battery power, lower emissions and banana peel cocktails? Jane Archer rounds up the eco-innovations that are making this year’s new ships more sustainable than ever

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S U S TA I N A B L E S H I P S

or years, cruise lines have vied with each other to offer the most restaurants at sea, the scariest waterslides, the most breathtaking feature (you know, the one where you gasp, ‘You can do that on a cruise ship, really?’). Now there is a new contest – the one to be the greenest of them all. Driven by changing public attitudes and tougher environmental regulations, companies are investing billions in new technologies that will keep our oceans and atmosphere as clean as they can be. At its simplest, it’s about banning single-use plastic as much as possible; at its most complex, it has meant developing engines that run on alternative fuels (liquefied natural gas is the current favourite, said to reduce sulphur emissions by almost 99% and nitrogen oxide emissions by up to 85%), as well as finding ways to reuse heat generated on board and treat waste water so the end result is almost as clear as drinking water. It has taken time for technology to keep up with aspirations, but things are starting to move fast. You can count on one hand the number of LNG-powered ships that have entered service since the technology debuted in 2018, but this year alone Disney Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, P&O Cruises and Carnival Cruise Line all have LNG-powered ships launching, and almost 20 more are slated to come out by 2027. Hybrid vessels that use a mix of LNG and battery power are also starting to set sail. It’s not just new ships that are going green. Hurtigruten, which sails the Norwegian coastal route, is converting three of its existing fleet into hybrids and installing SCR (selective catalytic reduction) units that reduce nitrogen oxide (NOx) gases by up to 80% on another three vessels. New British cruise line Ambassador has fitted an SCR system to its flagship Ambience, which was built in 1991, showing that efforts can be made to retrofit older ships alongside investing in the ships set to launch. Additionally, by cutting the ship’s average speed from 18.5 knots to

This page, top to bottom: Ambassador’s Ambience; Seabourn Venture; Atlas Ocean Voyages’ World Traveller Opposite page: Norwegian Prima; A-Rosa Sena; Celebrity Beyond 92

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16.25 to comply with new energy efficiency standards that will be in force from 2023, the line says NOx and CO2 emissions will fall 75% and 7% respectively.

BATTERY POWER

When it comes to eco-friendly cruising, Norwegian coastal start-up Havila Voyages takes some beating. Its first ship, Havila Capella, sails between Bergen and Kirkenes using a combination of LNG and massive battery packs that can power the vessel for up to four hours. For lovers of stats, they weigh 86 tons and have capacity of 6.1 megawatt hours, which is equivalent to 600 top-ofthe-range Teslas. Havila says they are the largest battery packs in the world designed for passenger ships. “We had the luxury of building now, when the technology is viable,” says UK country manager Matthew Valentine. He says sailing on battery power is just one part of the eco-equation on the ship. They also power it in port so it’s not kicking out emissions while docked – an important point because from 2026 Norway will only allow ships with zero emissions to enter popular Geirangerfjord. The batteries are recharged en route using clean hydropower as well as waste energy from the engines (a process known as ‘peak shaving’). Finally, a heat exchange system warms fresh air entering all cabins and the water used on board, and captures heat from showers and sinks. Havila has invested around £43 million to make its ships as environmentally friendly as possible (a second ship, Havila Castor, will enter service in May, with Havila Polaris and Pollux expected later this year). Valentine adds: “Sustainability is a big part of our focus. It also forms part of the buying decisions for a lot of people.”

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/ALEKSANDR ANDREEV; HOLGER LEUE; CELEBRITY CRUISES

“ S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y I S A B I G PA R T O F O U R F O C U S . I T A L S O F O R M S PA RT O F T H E B U Y I N G D E C I S I O N S F O R A L OT O F P E O P L E ”

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A-Rosa Cruises’ new river ship A-Rosa Sena, which launches on the Rhine in Germany in May, is also a hybrid. It operates on diesel (A-Rosa says an SCR filter captures at least 75% of NOx emissions and more than 90% of particulate matter) and switches to electric when arriving at and leaving ports. An exhaust heat recovery system generates electricity, which is then stored in the batteries. The vessel, based in Cologne, is the first on the Rhine with four inside decks. It runs on shore power when docked, and that shore power will also be used to recharge the batteries, topped up by peak shaving waste energy from the engines. “Everything to do with river cruising is about the destinations, so we have to protect the places that we visit,” says A-Rosa UK and Ireland managing director Lucia Rowe. The company will be refitting all of its river ships into hybrids by 2030 and is looking at how to use solar panels for charging batteries. “It is a big investment, but an investment protecting what we have. People will choose [who to cruise with] based on sustainability. We have to be ready.”

HOT TOPIC

Several ships launching this year have heat transfer systems that pipe surplus energy from one part of the ship to another instead of letting it disappear into the ether. On MSC World Europa, launching in December, heat from the laundry room and machinery will be used to warm up swimming pool water and other areas of the ship. It will also have an underwater radiated noise management system so marine mammals are not disturbed by noise coming from the hull and engine room. On Viking’s new expedition duo Viking Octantis and

PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/ALEKSANDR ANDREEV; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/ HAVILA VOYAGES/IAKOV KALININ; MSC CRUISES; ALASTAIR MILLER;

“ E V E RY T H I N G TO D O W I T H R I V E R C RU I S I N G I S A B O U T T H E D E S T I N AT I O N S , S O W E H AV E T O P R O T E C T T H E P L A C E S W E V I S I T ”

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CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

S U S TA I N A B L E S H I P S

Polaris, heat recovered from the engines warms water to produce steam that helps keep the fuel tanks heated. Seabourn’s new expedition ship, Seabourn Venture, has a novel waste disposal system that uses self-sustaining gasification to generate heat without harmful exhausts. The bio-char by-product that it creates can then be used as a fertiliser. Expedition line Atlas Ocean Voyages’ new World Traveller has a smart engine that uses only the amount of low-sulphur marine diesel fuel it needs, and can switch to quiet, electrically powered hydrojets. “We can stop [the ship’s] propellers and engage the pump engines to quietly cruise up to five knots in wildlife-rich waters,” says Mario Ferreira, chairman of Atlas holding company Mystic Cruises.

EVERY LITTLE HELPS

From a low-friction coating on the hull that cuts fuel consumption to ditching plastic cruise cards, all sorts of innovative eco-ideas are appearing on ships this year. Viking’s expedition ships join Silver Origin, the new Silversea vessel cruising the Galapagos, in using dynamic positioning systems rather than anchors so they don’t damage the seabed. On Celebrity Cruises’ new Celebrity Beyond, an app and QR codes for passengers reduce the amount of paper used on board, while those on Aurora Expeditions’ new Sylvia Earle will be provided with coral-safe sunscreen. Look out for the first sustainable bar from Norwegian Cruise Line, set to open on Norwegian Prima when it launches this summer. It will serve wines made from organic grapes and zero-waste cocktails such as the primadonna, made with surplus banana peel and sustainably produced Flor de Cana rum, so you can sip away without the slightest hint of guilt. To find out more about the new ships that are set to launch this year, visit cruise-international.com

Opposite page, top to bottom: Havila Capella; A-Rosa Sena relaxation room; MSC World Europa This page: In Antarctica with Viking Octantis CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

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ADVICE

ASK THE EXPERTS

Got a question about your next cruise holiday? Get an answer from our expert panel by emailing info@cruise-international.com

We’re thinking of booking a world cruise, but they always seem to sell out so quickly! Are there usually waiting lists for these, or would we be better oΩ booking back-to-back sailings instead? James Cole, founder and managing director, Panache Cruises

As with any specific cruise that you are interested in – a world cruise in this case – it is always best to book as soon as you possibly can, to secure your place at the very best price. First of all, if the sailing isn’t available to purchase yet, register an interest with your preferred travel agent so that they can book for you as soon as it is. However, if you only see the cruise once it has gone on sale then don’t worry too much – just give your agent a call and ask them to put you on the waiting list because places tend to come available over time. Alternatively, review the world cruise sectors to see if there are certain parts of the itinerary you would like to book as an alternative to sailing the full world cruise.

We’ve never been on a cruise before but we’re keen to give it a go with a Med sailing this summer, but there are so many lines and option to choose from. Where do we start? Andy Harmer, managing director of Cruise Lines International Association (Clia) UK & Ireland The Mediterranean is a favourite with UK holidaymakers and ideal for anyone planning their first sailing. As most cruise lines head to the Med during the sunny months, you have a wonderful array at your disposal. Decide which part you are thinking about: is it Spain, the south of France and west coast of Italy in the western Med; or something towards the east, 96

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including Greece, Croatia and the east coast of Italy? Then think about what kind of experience you would like: a big ship with more choice and options, or something smaller and more intimate? To help make the best decision, look no further than a Clia-accredited agent. Travel agents are experts in matching their customers with the right cruise line, the right ship and the right itinerary. For first-timers, choosing a suitable cruise can seem a daunting process, but agents have the knowledge, expertise and access to the best resources to help. I’m certain you’ll find the ideal ship and itinerary to suit you. Bon voyage! CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

ON SALE

JUNE 1

NEXT ISSUE... I’m keen to go on a cruise but so many companies seem to charge almost double the fare as a single supplement. Are there any cruise lines that won’t penalise me for being a single traveller, and what do they offer for solos on board?

SUMMER SPECIAL RAIL-AND-SAIL HOLIDAYS NEW SHIPS REVIEWED

Sarah Wikevand, managing director, ROL Cruise

The popularity of solo cruising is ever-increasing. When I worked on cruise ships, I hosted many solo traveller meet-ups and dinners, and they were always really well attended. Over the years, many cruise lines have introduced solo cabins, making cruising inclusive whether you’re on your own or with like-minded solo travellers. Many also arrange exclusive onboard events specifically for solo passengers to help individuals socialise, while others offer traditional assigned seating, which can be sociable for those travelling as a solo cruiser. The nature of cruising makes it an ideal way of travelling the world aboard your chosen ship, with the freedom to socialise as much as you wish. My advice is to speak to agents to identify solo offers or solo cabins, to help you find the right cruise line, ship and package to match your requirements and budget.

PICTURES: SEABOURN; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/NAPA74/ULTRAFORMA/GRAFISSIMO; CUNARD

With the ongoing conflict in Ukraine, is it safe to go on a Danube cruise and what rights do I have if I want to cancel? Edwina Lonsdale, managing director, Mundy Cruising

Currently, it is safe to travel on the Danube. River cruise lines are good at making nimble adaptations in the event of changing circumstances, and they would never put their guests in harm’s way. There is no Foreign Office advice against travel to the countries you will visit on a Danube cruise, so there should be no expectation to be able to cancel without penalty. Having said that, many companies still have in place the flexible cancellation terms they introduced during Covid, allowing you to roll monies forward or move a deposit to a different booking. Take the time to talk it through with your expert cruise consultant. CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM

PLUS

Win a holiday for two

C E L E B R I T Y T R AV E L S

Susan Calman

The Scottish comedian and presenter of Channel 5’s flagship cruise show reveals her favourite moments from filming I had always wanted to go on a cruise ship, but if we went on holiday it tended to be Arran, a beautiful little island just off the coast of Scotland, or a city break somewhere beautiful like Bath. Then in 2018, P&O Cruises asked if I wanted to go on its Strictly Come Dancing cruise to do audience Q&As and judge dancing competitions, and I said ‘Of course!’. I took my wife on the cruise and I loved it from the first second I set foot on that ship. I love the fact I get to my cabin, unpack my stuff and that’s me. I can get off and see the world, but I come back to the ship.

night on P&O Cruises and it’s lovely – everyone dresses up and it’s fabulous. I was wandering around talking to the camera but people kept calling me over to take photos, so I’m in countless people’s formal photographs. All over the country people have me and them on their mantelpiece for no apparent reason – members of their own family will be saying ‘Who’s that?’. It made me happy because we were part of the fun everyone was having on board.

We went to the Canaries – Tenerife, Lanzarote, Gran Canaria – and Madeira, which was exciting because it was completely new for me. We were there in October with Princess Cruises and it was boiling hot and brilliant fun. We also did a Royal Caribbean cruise from Barcelona to Italy, so I went to Rome and Lucca, which was beautiful. You end up doing things you wouldn’t normally do – I went jetskiing, did a sea-trek in Lanzarote, tried octopus for the first time and did lots of things I never thought I would do.

It’s so soothing to be on the ship as it sails away. My favourite modes of transport are boats and trains. I went on my honeymoon on the [Venice-Simplon] Orient Express and I love cruising in the same way I love being on a train. It’s the journey – the holiday is not just the destination, it’s how you get there. 98

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Clockwise from top: Susan in Rome; the Nile, her dream destination; Royal Caribbean’s FlowRider; with popular cruise director Andi

We couldn’t do what we do without the help of the crew on the ships. On Regal Princess there was a wonderful cruise director called Andi who was there every step of the way. You could see the effect he had on the passengers and how much they loved him. It’s difficult filming on a busy ship at times and they do everything they can to help us, so hopefully the show is also celebrating the wonderful people working on cruise ships.

I’ll give almost anything a go – I did ice skating and line-dancing lessons, and tried surfing on the FlowRider on Royal Caribbean, which was great fun. Cruising is a combination of everything that I know is good – eating, drinking, shows – and the unexpected, which actually turns out to be a lot of fun. I scour the newsletter to see what’s happening next day on the ship and I’ve kept every single one from all of my cruises. Eventually I’m going to paper a room with all the lovely memories of where I’ve been. My favourite thing was formal night on Princess. I’ve experienced a formal

I wanted to do something joyous at the end of the show. On Regal Princess there were probably about 2,000 people watching as we danced to Copacabana, it was the most nervewracking thing I’ve done since Strictly Come Dancing – in fact, it was worse! On Royal Caribbean, the captain agreed to let us dance on the helipad at the front of the ship, and we could see him waving from the bridge. They slowed the whole ship down so I could dance to Reach for the Stars on a helipad – now you can’t say that’s not a good job, can you? *Cruising with Susan Calman is available to watch now on My5 and will return with more episodes on Channel 5 later in the year. Read an extended version of this interview plus more celebrity travel stories on cruise-international.com

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PICTURES: VIACOM/CHANNEL 5/LIVIA HUGHES; ROYAL CARIBBEAN/ ROB KALMBACH; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/GIVAGA

When Channel 5 asked if I would like to take over Cruising, I was happier than you can possibly imagine. What an opportunity – it was a golden ticket moment. What’s more extraordinary is that I was offered the job before Covid, then the pandemic hit, and yet we’ve still managed to make a series of the programme during these difficult times, with the help of the cruise companies – we’ve done it despite all that.

I have one dream cruise, and this is not set up so it’s not a spoiler. I’m obsessed with Agatha Christie so I want to do the Nile. There is no other cruise in the world I would like to do more than that. When I got on board the Orient Express, I’m not ashamed to say I cried – I can only imagine what I’d be like on the Nile, so that’s my ultimate cruise destination.

Viking Mississippi, New Orleans

Explore the Mighty Mississippi 8 days, 5 guided tours 2023 journeys from £3,990pp Departing January- June & October -December 2023 New Orleans to Memphis, flights included Immerse yourself in history and heritage on Viking’s Heart of the Delta journey from New Orleans to Memphis. Soak up the rich French and Acadian cultures that infuse the Lower Mississippi, and be inspired by the stories of famed musicians and civil rights heroes. Savour delicious Cajun and Creole cuisine, as well as Memphis’s famous BBQ. And stir your soul with the rhythms of Dixieland jazz, Delta blues and gospel. All from the comfort of your beautiful new Viking ship, Viking Mississippi.

VIKING INCLUSIVE VALUE  SO MUCH INCLUDED • • • • • • • • • •

Return flights from London River-view stateroom 5 guided tours Culture Curriculum 24-hour room service All onboard meals, including regional specialities Specially selected house wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner on board Free tea, coffee and snacks any time on board Free Wi-Fi on board* Onboard gratuities

Call now on 020 8780 8701 or book online at viking.com *Connection speed may vary. Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available, departing on selected dates in 2023. Our cruises are only available to guests who will have been fully vaccinated at least 14 days prior to departure. All guests are required to take a COVID-19 test prior to departure, full details can be found at viking.com. You must have travel insurance that includes COVID-19 cover. Please visit viking.com for information on our full Health & Safety Programme. Please note that the information contained herein is subject to UK Government regulations on travel during the COVID-19 pandemic which are subject to change potentially with no or very short notice. The UK Government list of countries where travel is permitted to can change on a regular basis and at short notice, Viking cannot be held responsible if at any point before or during travel the advice changes which then requires guests to quarantine on their return. The Department of Transport and The Foreign and Commonwealth Office have also issued advice which applies to cruises. If UK Government regulations or guidance prohibit or further restrict travel either within the UK or abroad, then we may similarly have to cancel planned cruises, or amend itineraries or other conditions for travel at short or no notice. Please refer to paragraph H.1 [and B2] in our Booking Terms and Conditions on our website viking.com for further information as to our cancellation policies in these circumstances.

The Bow seating, Viking Mississippi

Deluxe Veranda, Viking Mississippi

HEART OF THE DELTA

8 DAYS, 5 GUIDED TOURS

Day 1 New Orleans, Louisiana Day 2 Darrow, Louisiana

Day 3 Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Day 4 St. Francisville, Louisiana Day 5 Natchez, Mississippi

Day 6 Vicksburg, Mississippi Day 7 Scenic Sailing: Lower Mississippi

Day 8 Memphis, Tennessee

em So ore rin ut ce ha cru ss m ise at pto s f pr n o rom in ce n ss .c om

All-inclusive Balcony fares start from only

£499 *Terms and conditions apply.

SCAN TO VIEW NEW 2022 CRUISES ON ENCHANTED PRINCESS Visit princess.com

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