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7-NIGHT EPHESUS & GREEK ISLAND GEMS
7 AU G ; 13 N OV * 2022 | SE A B O U R N E NCO R E Roundtrip Athens (Piraeus) With Included air from £3,299pp. Visits: Agios Nikolaos (Crete); Patmos; Kusadasi (Ephesus); Cesme (Turkey); Mykonos; Skiathos l l l
Inclusive economy air and transfers~ Classical Concert in Ephesus £250pp low deposit *Lead fares based on 13 Nov 2022.
14-NIGHT EXOTIC CARIBBEAN IN DEPTH
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COMPLIMENTARY SUITE UPGRADES | LOW DEPOSIT FLY/CRUISE FROM £3,299PP Seabourn is a world of all-inclusive, all-suite ultra-luxury, where space is generous and crowds are few; where names and wine orders are remembered, preferences noted, and wishes granted before they are spoken. A concept designed around an intimate
7, 21 JAN ; 4* , 18* FE B ; 4* MA R 2023 S E ABOU R N O VA T I O N Roundtrip Barbados With Included air from £6,299pp
Visits: Port Elizabeth (Bequia); Trois Ilets (Martinique); Basseterre (Guadeloupe); Charlestown (Nevis); St Johns Antigua; Carambola Beach (St Kitts & Nevis); Philipsburg (St Maarten); Sopers Hole (Frenchmans Cay); Basseterre (St Kitts & Nevis); Gustavia (St Barts); Terre-de-Haut (Iles des Saintes); Rodney Bay (St Lucia); Saline Bay (Mayreau) l l l l
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14-NIGHT THAILAND, VIETNAM & MALAYSIA
8* , 22 JAN ; 19 FE B ; 5 MA R 2023 S E AB O U R N E NCO R E Roundtrip Singapore Cruise from £5,199pp; Fly cruise from £6,299pp Visits: Laem Chabang (Bangkok); Ko Kood+ (Thailand); Sihanoukville (Cambodia); Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon); Port Klang (Kuala Lumpur); Malacca (Malaysia) l l l
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16-NIGHT AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND
5* , 21~ D E C 202 2; 6, 22~ J A N; 7 FE B 2023 S E ABO U R N O DYSSE Y Sydney to Auckland Cruise from £6,499pp. Fly/cruise from £8,499pp Visits: Phillip Island; Melbourne; Milford Sound & Cruising Fjordland National Park (New Zealand); Oban (Halfmoon Bay); Port Chalmers (Dunedin); Timaru; Kaikoura; Picton; Wellington; Matiatia Bay. l l
Suite upgrade £250pp low deposit ~Itinerary in reverse. * Lead fare based on 5 Dec
12-NIGHT SAILING THE HUMBOLDT ROUTE 26 OC T 2022 | SE A B O U R N VE NT U R E Callao (Lima) to San Antonio (Santiago) Cruise from £7,499: Fly/cruise from £8,629pp Visits: Islas Ballestas (Peru); General San Martin (Pisco); Matarani; Arica (Chile); Iquique; Antofagasta; Isla Pan du Azucar; Isla Choros; Coquimbo (La Serena) l l
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14-NIGHT PANAMA CANAL QUEST
11* , 25^ N OV; 9 DE C, 23 DE C^ 2022 S E AB O U R N Q U E ST Cruise from £4,999pp; Fly/cruise from £5,849pp Visits: Miami; Key West; Belize City; Banana Coast (Trujillo, Honduras); Bocas del Toro (Panama); daylight Panama Canal transit olfito Costa ica Puntarenas Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica); San Juan del Sur (Nicaragua); Quepos (Costa Rica); Fuerte Amador (Panama) l l
Suite Upgrade £250pp low deposit ^Itinerary in reverse *Lead fare based on 11 Nov 2022
CONTACT YOUR SEABOURN TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR SEABOURN RESERVATIONS ON 0344 338 8615 WWW.SEABOURN.COM Terms & Conditions: *Featured prices are per guest based on double occupancy and promo codes NB, JE & JB. Prices are inclusive of Cruise Fare, Taxes, Fees & Port Expenses in Pounds Sterling. All savings amounts are included in the prices shown. Complimentary eranda Suite pgrades are subject to availability at time of booking on these voyages. pgrade will be reflected in fare paid for selected Suite category. educed Deposit offer is valid on select sailings that are outside of standard penalty periods. educed Deposit amounts vary by class of ship Ocean Fleet Seabourn Odyssey, Seabourn Sojourn, Seabourn Quest, Seabourn Encore and Seabourn Ovation reduced deposit of per guest Expedition Fleet Seabourn enture and Seabourn Pursuit reduced deposit of per guest. educed Deposit offer is based on promo DD. Europe Caribbean ex- arbados cruises only nclusive Economy Class Air offer is subject to availability, valid only for guests residing in the and applicable to the st nd guests sharing a Suite only. n the event that promotional Economy Class Air is not available at the sole discretion of Seabourn or for guests not wishing to utilize the promotional air offer PAO , a cruise credit in the amount of per guest Europe and 6 per guest Caribbean will be applied to the booking amount. PAO include complimentary transfers between the airport and ship and in case of an airline delay or cancellation, next port protection. f PAO flight s and or cruise schedule s force an overnight, a complimentary hotel night is included. Promotional Economy Class Air offer is based on promo code E. Early onus Saving. Guests must pay in full by on cruises departing onwards to receive a discount, which will only apply to the gross cruise-only base fare and Taxes, Fees or Port Expenses TF PE . Full payment means full balance of the booking including, without limitation, any air, excursions, transfers, or hotels . Offer must be asked for specifically in order to be applied. Guests using a Future Cruise Credit and or rebooking from voyages impacted by a pause in operations are not eligible for this offer. All offers are capacity controlled and may be modified or withdrawn at any time without prior notice. Other restrictions may apply. Seabourn reserves the right to correct errors. Ships registry ahamas. Seabourn.
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EDITOR’S LETTER
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/MARIDAV; POMPEI LUCA; SHUTTERSTOCK/NEJDET DUZEN
Welcome
David Attenborough knows a thing or two about nature, so when he dubbed Horizontal Falls “one of the greatest wonders of the natural world”, you can take him at his word. Yet our front cover image is just the start of the raw natural beauty on display in the remote Kimberley region of Western Australia. If you’re not familiar with the Kimberley’s rugged landscapes and rich Aboriginal heritage, see what our writer discovered when she embarked on an adventure cruise (page 38). It’s sure to leave you feeling as inspired as we are to explore. If you fancy a coastal cruise that’s a bit closer to home, we’ll also transport you to the sun-kissed shores of Croatia to test out the superyacht lifestyle on new luxury vessel Emerald Azzurra (page 50). Plus we find out whether you really can squeeze the gorgeous Greek isles into a long weekend (page 80), and set our sights on the best cruises for amateur photographers (page 70). Heading a little farther afield, we visit the lush shores of Hawaii, where every sailaway is like a sightseeing cruise (page 60) and take a whistlestop tour through Singapore, which has reopened to cruise ships in a significant step forward for Asia cruises (page 68). With so much focus on flight delays or cancellations, it’s easy to forget the unadulterated joy that comes with travelling the world, meeting new people and experiencing new cultures. To put it in the words of our Kimberley cruiser, “it’s a rare and unforgettable privilege”.
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The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ. Tel: 020 7349 3700. Email: info@cruise-international.com. Website: www.cruise-international.com EDITORIAL Editor Katie McGonagle Art Director Chloë Collyer Sub-Editor David Powning Contributors Jane Archer, Rebecca Barnes, Joanna Booth, Sue Bryant, Kaye Holland, Sara Macefield, Melanie May, Lizzie Pook, Jeannine Williamson DIGITAL Digital Product Manager Ben Iskander Digital Editor Claire Benktander Digital Marketing Assistant Olivia Matthew ADVERTISING Group Director of Sales Catherine Chapman Sales Manager Warren Wilkinson PUBLISHING Publisher Simon Temlett Managing Director James Dobson Chief Financial Officer Vicki Gavin Chairman Paul Dobson NEWS DISTRIBUTION News Trade (UK and Rest of World): Seymour International Ltd., 2 East Poultry Avenue, London, EC1A 9PT CRUISE INTERNATIONAL (Print ISSN 1758-2326) (Online ISSN 2396-9237) is published bi-monthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
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98
17
CONTENTS
70 FEATURES 22 New Ships
Our verdicts from Viking Mars, Discovery Princess and NickoVision
30 Med for Foodies
Feast on flavour in the Med with an Oceania Cruises epicurean trip
38 Kimberley, Australia
Prepare to be awed by Western Australia’s most remote region
48 Wellness Cruises
REGULARS 6
Hot Spot
River cruise ships are upping their game when it comes to wellness
48
50 Croatia
Skim the Adriatic in style on board luxury yacht Emerald Azzurra
The ancient city of Ephesus is a highlight of cruise calls at Kusadasi
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60 Hawaii
See smouldering volcanoes and lush scenery on these paradise islands
On Our Radar
Explore art, urban adventures and Cuban culture in Tampa Bay, Florida
68 City Guide
Enjoy the best Singapore has to offer as cruises to the city-state restart
11 Cruise News
Get the latest tips on new ships, travel updates and cruise add-ons
70 Photography Cruises
Brush up on your skills with our pick of the finest camera-friendly cruises
17 Style
Give your summer wardrobe a lift with our pick of must-have items
80 Greece
Squeeze a Greek isles sailing into a long weekend with Celestyal Cruises
19 Health & Wellbeing
Check out the latest spa news and handy essentials for your suitcase
87 Cruise Directors
Go behind the scenes to see what your favourite crew members do
58 Competition
Win a Danube cruise for two worth up to £5,000 with Nicko Cruises
ON THE COVER
92 Recipes
PICTURES: SECRET ATLAS/FLORIAN LEDOUX; GETTY IMAGES/ ISTOCKPHOTO/DENNISVDW; PONANT/NICOLAS MATHEUS
Freshen up your summer soirées with ideas from Angela Hartnett
96 Ask the Experts
Flight delays, onboard apps and Italy trips are tackled by our expert panel
98 Celebrity Travels
Superstar soprano Sarah Brightman previews her onboard performance
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TOURISM AUSTRALIA/SCOTT SLAWINSKI
© The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd 2022 All rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The information in CRUISE INTERNATIONAL has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by contributors to CRUISE INTERNATIONAL are not necessarily those of the publisher. For up to date travel advice, always check fco.gov.uk before you go.
Printed in England by William Gibbons, West Midlands. Origination by All Points Media www.allpointsmedia.co.uk CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
J U LY/AUGUST 2022 |
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HOT SPOT
Ephesus, Turkey
PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/MURATART
A sense of power and prosperity still emanates from the grand facade of the Library of Celsus, a repository of ancient learning that once held more than 12,000 scrolls, and it feels as much of a status symbol today as it would have in the ancient world. Then, the city of Ephesus was second only to Rome in its importance: capital of Asia Minor, home to one of the seven wonders of the ancient world in the Temple of Artemis, and a centre of early Christianity. Now, its biscuit-coloured buildings may lie in ruins, but its star is on the rise once again as dozens of cruise lines call at the Turkish port of Kusadasi for excursions to this ancient city. Seabourn is even going so far as to host a one-off concert within its atmospheric surroundings, bringing classical tenor and Britain’s Got Talent star Jonathan Antoine to perform at the line’s Evening at Ephesus event on August 10. >> Turn to page 98 for an exclusive interview with singer Sarah Brightman, who is performing a one-night-only show on Seabourn Encore
ON OUR RADAR
Tampa Bay, Florida There’s a reason Americans flock to Florida to escape the winter chill – the Sunshine State combines laid-back living with a creative foodie scene and high-energy attractions, making it the ideal spot to spend a few days before or after a Caribbean cruise. But if your mind goes straight to glitz and glamour in South Beach, Miami, or family fun in Orlando, look again, because Florida cruise port Tampa is fast becoming a hub of outdoor adventure, art and a thriving Cuban culture. Spend your days strolling or cycling along the Tampa Riverwalk, which features uber-cool food halls such as former streetcar warehouse Armature Works. Come evening, head to Ybor City to find out how this district, home to Cuban, Italian and Spanish immigrants since the 1880s, became the world’s cigar capital, and watch tabaqueros deftly roll cigars on Seventh Avenue. With the city’s first five-star hotel opening this year, the 172-room Tampa Edition, plus a dual-branded Hampton Inn and Home2 Suites opening near the port next year, you’ll be sure of a good night’s sleep before you set sail with the likes of Celebrity, Royal Caribbean, NCL or Carnival Cruise Line. >> Turn to page 60 to read more about US cruises
PICTURE: ALAMY
IT’S MORE THAN RIVER CRUISING
It’s Truly All-Inclusive Luxury in a Class of its Own At Scenic, we draw upon 37 years of experience, innovation and commitment to creating seamless and spectacular journeys, always putting our guests at the heart of everything we do. It’s more than just river cruising. It’s an immersive exploration of the towns and villages that line Europe’s historic waterways. The heart of your journey is your truly all-inclusive luxury Scenic Space-Ship, with a maximum of only 163 guests. Every detail of your journey is cared for to the Nth Degree, from the moment you book until the day you return home. Join us on a Europe river cruise in 2023 so we can take you on a remarkable journey that you will remember for a lifetime.
Castles and Palaces of the Rhine, Main, Danube and Moselle rivers Northern France’s Historic River Seine Spectacular South of France Beautiful Bordeaux Portugal’s picturesque Douro River
2023 Super Earlybird Offers Available Exclusive Scenic Enrich Events
Order your FREE brochure call 0808 258 4434 or visit scenic.co.uk/2023
Choice of up to five dining venues
Cruise News SHIPS / EVENTS / DESTINATIONS
LATIN AMERICA IS “RISING STAR” Cruise holidays in South and Central America are on the rise as the region bounces back post-pandemic. Colin Stewart, chairman of the Latin American Travel Association (Lata), said: “[Cruise] has been the rising star in terms of untapped markets, with growth over the past four or five years, pre-Covid. I don’t think there’s ever been a healthier appetite for cruising.” A Lata consumer poll, which included Cruise International readers, found 18% of those surveyed had taken a holiday in the region in the past five years, with a quarter including a cruise (lata.travel).
SCENIC ADDS EUROPE TRIPS
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/SL_PHOTOGRAPHY; SHUTTERSTOCK/ALIAKSANDR ANTANOVICH
SEABOURN VENTURES FORTH Seabourn has taken delivery of its first purpose-built expedition ship, Seabourn Venture (above), which at the time of going to press was due to sail a maiden voyage from Tromso, Norway, on July 27. It is the first of two new expedition ships for the line and features a team of 26 scientists and naturalists on board. Seabourn president Josh Leibowitz said: “Seabourn Venture will raise the bar in ultra-luxury expedition travel, and we look forward to introducing her to the world as she sets sail to explore remote destinations from the Arctic to Antarctica.” The line has also released Sail Away Event offers including free veranda suite upgrades and reduced deposits, until August 31 (seabourn.com).
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A new Rhine cruise, a tour through Croatia and Slovenia, more historical landmarks and a truffle farm are among the additions to Scenic’s European river cruise programme in 2023. It has added an eight-day itinerary on the Rhine and Moselle, with a trip on the Winzerexpress mini train in Rudesheim and a cable car journey above vineyards (below), plus visits to Baden-Baden, Strasbourg and Freiburg. Guests on the Jewels of Europe from Amsterdam to Budapest can tag on a four-night extension to Slovenian capital Ljubljana, take a boat across Lake Bled and explore Plitvice National Park in Croatia (scenic.co.uk).
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CRUISE NEWS
EMER ALD HEADS FOR AMERICAS Central America, the Caribbean and transatlantic voyages are among the additions to Emerald Cruises’ new programme of luxury yacht cruises. The 2023-24 collection features 15 new islands and countries for Emerald Azzurra and sister vessel Emerald Sakara, which is due to launch next year. Highlights include both vessels homeporting in the Caribbean over winter. There will also be three Atlantic Ocean crossings and new ports of call in the Med, including: Sardinia, the Balearic Islands, Gibraltar and the Canary Islands (emeraldcruises.co.uk).
SILVERSEA TAKES FLIGHT Silversea has added three fly-cruise departures to Antarctica for 2024, letting guests fly over the notorious Drake Passage in business class. The Antarctica Bridge programme is the fastest route to the region, taking visitors to an air base on King George Island to join Silver Cloud. Silversea president and chief executive Roberto Martinoli said: “We provide guests the luxury of choice, with the most diverse offering in ultra-luxury Antarctica cruising. Our pioneering Antarctica Bridge option is tremendously popular with time-conscious travellers.” Two five-day cruises depart on February 2 and 7, 2024, with a six-day sailing departing on February 12, 2024. Prices start from £10,700 per person (silversea.com).
MSC GOES BIG ON KIDS MSC Cruises has unveiled details of its largest-ever kids’ area on new ship MSC World Europa (left), which is due to launch in December. The family facilities include a 766sq m kids’ space divided into seven areas for age groups from babies to 17 years old. New features include a Lego room; Z Active sports area with football, basketball, pickleball and hoverboards; Drone Academy relay race; and game shows inspired by K-pop and parents’ and kids’ music tastes (msccruises.co.uk). 12
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EXPLOR A I ADVANCES Luxury cruise line Explora Journeys took a step towards the launch of its debut vessel when it was floated out of its Italian shipyard. Explora I is due to launch in May 2023, the first of four ships being built at the Fincantieri shipyard in Monfalcone. Explora I’s maiden voyage will be an 11-night Med cruise from Barcelona to Athens. The first year will see it visit 132 ports in 40 countries, including two destinations – Kastellorizo in Greece and Saint Pierre in Martinique – that have never received cruise ship visitors before. It will then move to Alaska for summer 2024. The ship has 461 oceanfront suites, penthouses and residences plus 10 restaurants, 10 bars and lounges and four pools (explorajourneys.com).
ALL GREEK FOR CELEBRITY Guests sailing in Greece this summer can book shore excursions with the captain’s personal seal of approval thanks to a new programme of Captain-Curated experiences from Celebrity Cruises. Available on any Celebrity ship sailing the Greek isles in summer 2022, they include visiting a family-owned olive mill in Olympia, enjoying lunch like a local at the Bairaktaris Tavern in Athens and taking a foodie tour through the backstreets of Mykonos (above). The line has a strong Greek heritage having been founded in 1988 by the Chandris family, and 70% of its marine officers are from Greece (celebritycruises.com).
PICTURES: MSC; POMPEI LUCA; IVAN SARFATTI; SHUTTERSTOCK/GEORGIOS TSICHLIS; FIIPPO VINARDI
HOLLAND AMERICA RETRACES ITS ROOTS Holland America Line is marking its 150th anniversary with a second commemorative transatlantic crossing on new ship Rotterdam (right) in April 2023. The 16-night cruise will reverse the route that was taken on the company’s first-ever voyage, departing from Fort Lauderdale, Florida, on April 3, for an overnight call in New York City. It will then cross the Atlantic, stopping at Plymouth and Dover, before arriving in the Dutch city of Rotterdam on the company’s 150th birthday, April 18, for a night of celebration. The line is also operating an anniversary crossing that will depart from Rotterdam on October 15, 2022, exactly 150 years since the departure of its first-ever vessel (hollandamerica.com). CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
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GARY BARLOW ON IONA The Take That singer has announced a series of charity performances in the Headliners Theatre on P&O Cruises’ newest ship, Iona. Barlow said: “One thing I love is making memories, and I think music does that extremely well. I look forward to joining guests on board Iona later this year to create some truly special holiday memories.” He is set to appear on a Spain and Portugal cruise departing Southampton on October 29, 2022; and a Spain, Portugal and Canary Islands cruise departing November 12, 2022. Raffle tickets to attend will be £10 each, with proceeds going to Child Bereavement UK and the Teenage Cancer Trust (pocruises.com).
A-ROSA EMBRACES ECO TECH German river cruise line A-Rosa has launched its first hybrid-powered, family-friendly ship, A-Rosa Sena (below), on a maiden voyage from Cologne. The ship uses new ‘E-Motion’ technology to allow noise-free and emission-free sailing in populated areas, the first time the system has been rolled out on a river cruise vessel. Lucia Rowe, UK & Ireland managing director, said: “This is what we’ve all been waiting for – our next-generation ship’s sustainability credentials demonstrate to the sector what can be done.” (arosa-cruises.com)
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AMBASSADOR REVEALS AMBITION A round-the-world cruise, Christmas in the Caribbean and new UK departure ports are among the highlights of Ambassador Cruise Line’s 2023-24 programme. Ambience will sail a 120-night Grand Round the World Cruise visiting six continents, 24 countries, 34 ports of call and transiting the Panama Canal. Second ship Ambition (above)
will offer 49 cruises, including a maiden voyage to Scandinavia and a Christmas and New Year cruise to the Caribbean. The British company is due to launch Ambition on March 4, 2023. It will also add no-fly sailings from Newcastle, Dundee, Liverpool, Belfast, Bristol and Falmouth, on top of current homeport London Tilbury (ambassadorcruiseline.com).
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CRUISE NEWS
CRYSTAL CRUISES SHIPS ACQUIRED Abercrombie & Kent’s parent company has bought ocean cruise ships Crystal Serenity (below) and Crystal Symphony. The ships were sold at auction in the Bahamas for a reported $128 million, and are due to restart sailing in 2023 after being refurbished. They will continue to operate under the Crystal Cruises brand, which has also been acquired by the A&K Travel Group. It comes after Crystal Cruises’ parent company, Genting Hong Kong, collapsed in January. Manfredi Lefebvre d’Ovidio, co-chairman of A&K Travel Group and former owner of Silversea Cruises, said: “I am thrilled to start this new chapter and to be back in an industry that has always had, and always will have, a special place in my heart.”
RIVIERA TRAVEL ADDS CITY STAYS Riviera Travel has introduced city break add-ons to its European river cruises following demand for longer durations. Three-day extensions are available in 10 cities – namely Amsterdam, Basel, Cologne (above), Frankfurt, Lyon, Marseille, Munich, Paris, Porto and Vienna – and can be added to any 2023 Europe river cruise. Katja Hildebrandt, head of river and ocean cruise at Riviera Travel, said: “From relaxing with a cafe au lait and croissant in a Paris eatery to experiencing the architectural grandeur of Cologne, our city stays allow guests to explore even more, safe in the knowledge that we will take care of all accommodation and travel arrangements.” Stays include B&B accommodation in a central city hotel, transfers from the ship to the hotel and airport, and access to activities via tour provider Holibob (rivieratravel.co.uk).
PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/S.BORISOV
VIKING CIRCLES SATURN FOR 2023 DEBUT Viking is shooting for the stars with the float-out of its newest ocean ship, Viking Saturn (right), due to set sail in April 2023. The 930-passenger vessel – which is identical to the rest of the ocean fleet – took to the water for the first time in June at the Fincantieri shipyard in Italy, marking the final stage in construction. Viking chairman Torstein Hagen said: “It is always a proud day when a Viking ship meets water for the first time. We look forward to welcoming guests on Viking Saturn when she’s delivered next spring.” Sister ship Viking Neptune is also scheduled to launch later this year (vikingcruises.co.uk). CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
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$150 ONBOARD SPEND PER COUPLE
The Cruise Centre indrick Way, Barlborough, Chesterfield, S4 4 E
QUOTE: BCC REF 8120. ISSUED 06.07.22. Please see our website www.bolsovercruiseclub.com for the most up to date offers and availability. A copy of Bolsover Cruise Club’s Terms of Business is available on request or by visiting our website. Prices shown are subject to availability based upon 2 adults sharing the lowest available grade within the stateroom type specified. Prices and availability are correct at time of publishing and may go up or down. Onboard Credit is applicable to passenger 1 & 2 only, available on all grades and varies by cruise duration and cabin category. Onboard Credit of up to 500 per cabin based on 2 people in a Suite booking on cruises that are 20 night duration or more. Onboard Credit may be used on a single voyage, is non refundable, no cash alternative will be offered and expires at the end of that cruise. Offer is available from 1st June 2022 - 1st August 2022, and applies to cruises in this campaign only. This advert contains an outline description of the product featured, which is solely organised by Princess Cruises. It should be read in conjunction with Princess Cruises current brochure which contains full information about the cruise itineraries, accommodation details, booking conditions that apply, passport and health requirements, what’s included in the fare and other general information. Prices shown are per person, based on twin occupancy and are correct at the time of going to print. Further terms and conditions apply, please call for details.
Cruise Club Fares From pp £
2,257
$200 ONBOARD SPEND PER COUPLE
FREE
Bi-Monthly Cruise Magazine worth £29.70 per year when you join the Cruise Club www.bolsovercruiseclub.com/into-the-blue
CRUISE STYLE
TRUE BLUE If you’re looking to pair your Belle Modelle skirt (below) with matching shoes, check out these Sante + Wade Eniola sandals featuring a slim block heel and intertwining straps of stretchy nappa and textured leather, available in blue, olive or cerise (£195, sizes 4-11, Wolf & Badger or online at santewade.com).
LOOK SHARP
Under cover Liven up your poolside attire with this silk crepe cover-up from Lindsey Brown. The Zanzibar’s animal and orchid print design is accented with crystals and gold pendants at the neckline, and shell and starfish motifs on the shoulders – wear it on the sun deck by day and as a flowy top by night (£165, length 85cm, one size S-L, lindseybrown.com).
PICTURES: JAMES HALSALL-FOX; TRAVEL AND THE GIRLS
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The new CL Curio 7x21 binoculars from Swarovski Optik will bring your cruise sightseeing into focus. Lightweight and compact, they are available in solid black or burnt orange with a silver bridge (from £630, Harrods, Selfridges or swarovskioptik.com).
SHOPPING GLAM UP OR DRESS DOWN YOUR SUMMER STAPLES WITH OUR HOLIDAY MUST-HAVES
arts
These cruelty-free fragrance, bath and body products from Noble Isle use Yorkshire rhubarb, Irish samphire and more to create a selection of trios and quartets (£20 for three x 75ml products, £12 for four x 30ml, available at Selfridges, Harrods and nobleisle.com).
RISE AND SHINE Opt for a crease-free cruise with Belle Modelle’s pleated Estelle maxi skirt, in silver or electric blue. Its eye-catching shimmer finish, stretch waistband and handy side pockets make this long-line skirt a must-have both day and night (sizes 8-22, £29.95, belle-modelle.co.uk).
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SHELL WE DANCE Get in the holiday mood with this sunray shell necklace from Wanderlust Life Jewellery, a limited-edition piece cast from a shell found on Saunton Sands in north Devon. It’s available in recycled silver or ethically sourced gold plating. A £5 donation from each sale goes to Plastic Free North Devon. (£72, wanderlustlife.co.uk). J U LY/AUGUST 2022 |
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The Yacht Cruise Experience
Home at Sea SEVEN DAY SMALL SHIP CRUISE ADVENTURES
GREECE • SEYCHELLES • TAHITI • RED SEA • COSTA RICA & PANAMA WEST AFRICA • CAPE VERDE • BARBADOS
0208 324 3114
varietycruises.co.uk NEW BROCHURE OUT NOW
H E A LT H & W E L L B E I N G
CRUISE WELL THE LATEST HEALTH AND WELLBEING NEWS FROM AROUND THE CRUISE WORLD
Après-sea and spa We love the L’Occitane-branded spa and gym from ‘luxe-adventure line’ Atlas Ocean Voyages, which has promised to create an ‘après-sea’ experience that replicates a luxury ski lodge. The Florida-based line launched its first ship, World Navigator, last August, with four more to follow. The 196-passenger ship has an infrared sauna, fitness studio with TechnoGym equipment such as treadmills, bikes and yoga balls, and water sports facilities including kayaks, WaveRunners and jetskis. Atlas Ocean Voyages cruises can be booked via Fred Holidays, offering financially protected packages (fredholidays.co.uk).
FLY NOT DRY Don’t let your skin dry out mid-flight with these individually sized formulas from Wo Skincare. Not only will you feel the benefit of the Power TonIQ Intense Hydrating Essence – a mix of watermelon rind, lentil seed and apple extracts – or the Daily Base Comfort Balm, a make-up remover, cleanser and hydrator using Korean herb oils, but each blister pack is also made from recycled drinks bottles so you can do your bit for the environment too (Power TonIQ £18 for 14 doses; Comfort Balm £30 for 28 doses, wearewo.com).
PICTURES: OLIVIA IRWIN; PONANT/GILLES TRILLARD
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TRAVEL TAN Leave any thought of sunbeds behind with the new quick-fix Skinstant Bronze Tanning Stick from Rose & Caramel. This travel-sized stick fits in your washbag and has a sweat-proof and waterproof formula that dries fast and lasts all day. Includes a mitt to help you contour and fix any fake tan mistakes (£24.99, roseandcaramel.co.uk). CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
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Ponant has announced a new series of themed collections for its 2022-23 cruises with wellbeing and lifestyle as one of its core pillars, alongside planet, culture and geopolitics. The line will offer holidays that focus on wellness, yoga, nutrition and sleep with an opportunity to disconnect from tech and concentrate on mindfulness and spirituality. Sailings include its first Yoga & Wellbeing cruise featuring Tigre Yoga Club founder Elodie Garamond, who will run daily classes on Le Dumont d’Urville and ashore in the Caribbean, along with naturopath Leila Nasri (ponant.com).
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Las Teresitas beach and San Andres village, Tenerife
EXPERIENCE EUROPE with exceptional value Get much more for less with NCL
H
olidays are all about feeling free – to explore new places, try new things and enjoy the best experiences that life has to offer. And that’s exactly what you’ll find on an NCL cruise, inviting you to see the very best of Europe with over 118 ports of call – more than any other contemporary cruise line – across northern Europe, the Med and the sun-kissed Greek isles. Plus NCL has just announced a fantastic range of new winter-sun sailings in the Canary Islands. On board the fun-packed Norwegian Sun, you could go from floating the day away on the beautiful beaches of Las Palmas in Gran Canaria to enjoying an indulgent evening in the ship’s Mandara Spa,
or from sampling tasty tapas in Santa Cruz de Tenerife to tapping your toes along to award-winning Broadway musicals. These great-value winter-sun holidays also offer the chance to delve even deeper into the islands’ local culture and foodie traditions with a new Go Local range of shore excursions that will ensure you come home with more than just a tan. Book today and you could get 40% off ALL cruise and fly-cruise packages, and up to £250 airfare credit per person on select Europe sailings.* Whether you’re looking for a last-minute autumn escape, a spot of winter sunshine or a culture-rich voyage to look forward to next summer, you will find plenty of
options to choose from. NCL has more than 170 unique, port-rich itineraries, with some that include two ports in a day or skip sea days for even more time ashore. And with a choice of more than 15 departure ports and nine Europe-based ships, it’s no wonder NCL has been voted Europe’s Leading Cruise Line 14 years in a row by the World Travel Awards. To book, call 0333 336 1594, contact your travel agent or visit ncl.com
2021 Europe's Leading Cruise Line
P R O M OT I O N A L F E AT U R E
Clockwise: Enjoy wonderful food; Balcony stateroom; fun in Corfu; Champs Bar on Norwegian Sun
FEEL FREE AT SEA
FEATURED JOURNEYS
Enjoy exceptional value with NCL’s Free at Sea offer, where from as little as £149 per person,* you could enjoy:
Mediterranean: Italy, France & Spain from Barcelona
Open bar: unlimited drinks, including cocktails and premium spirits in every bar and restaurant throughout your cruise. Speciality dining: eat at amazing speciality restaurants ranging from Cagney’s Steakhouse to Japanese teppanyaki, Italian classics and fine French cuisine, with two included per cruise. Free Wi-Fi: stay in touch with 150 minutes of included internet per person.
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/BALATE DORIN/ ERLANTZ PÉREZ RODRÍGUEZ; NCL/RICK DIAZ/JIM HUGHES
Shore excursion credit: get the very best out of your time ashore with up to $300 towards NCL’s immersive destination experiences. Family and friends offer: if you want to bring the whole brood, third and fourth guests can stay in your stateroom at no extra cost on selected sailings, other than the applicable taxes.
Norwegian Epic
7 days, Jul-Sep 2022 Combine time on the Med’s best beaches with culture and history – from visiting the house where Napoleon was born to exploring Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel in the Vatican and sculpture of David in Florence. Inside from £685 per person, Balcony from £969 (departing August 28, 2022).**
Greek Isles & Italy: Santorini, Athens & Florence from Rome (Civitavecchia) Norwegian Escape
10 days, Jul-Sep 2022 This voyage brings together the Med’s most iconic summer spots, featuring Mykonos and Santorini – all whitewashed streets and hot-pink bougainvillea – plus to-die-for dining in Rome and Naples and postcard-pretty views in Valletta. Inside from £1,045 per person, Balcony from £1,559 (departing September 2, 2022).**
Spain, Portugal & Gibraltar from Granada (Malaga) Norwegian Sun
11 days, Dec 9, 2022 and Feb 3, 2023 This journey will offer a new perspective on familiar places. Wander the charming cobbled streets of medieval Portuguese town Obidos or hike the other-worldly volcanic landscapes of Lanzarote, in between golden beaches and grand city landmarks. Inside from £620 per person, Balcony from £1,290 (departing December 9, 2022).**
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: *New qualifying bookings made for any open for sale 3+ night sailings made between 15 July and 29 July 2022 for individual FIT reservations and new created qualifying groups (delegates with names) for all stateroom categories. Cannot be held as a new or existing traditional or group block (except 40% discount). Not applicable to affinity / FS group types (except 40% discount). Free at Sea upgrade charge depends on cruise length – £149pp for cruises of 6-8 days. 3rd and 4th guest pay taxes only available on select sailings, and only valid where 1st and 2nd guests on booking pay full fare. 40% cruise and fly-cruise discount apply to total cruise only fare and flight cost of all guests subject to exceptions below. All offers: limits, conditions, restrictions and exclusions apply. Offers not applicable to charter or inaugural sailings. Single occupants paying 200% of voyage fare qualify. Up to £250 per person air credit applies to first and second guests (inc single guests) on reservation (inc IX, OX, BX and MX). Bookings in Balcony staterooms and above receive £250 per person air credit. Bookings in Oceanview staterooms and below receive £125 per person air credit. For new individual FIT (gross) reservations only for all open for sale Europe 2022 sailings (excluding Norwegian Star and Norwegian Prima). Air credit will be applied against cost of flights selected at the time of booking using NCL’s interactive air only. Fly and Cruise bookings only, not applicable to cruise-only. Not applicable to any other guests on the booking or to child or infant prices. New individual FIT reservations cannot be moved into an existing speculative / traditional / gross group. Cannot be held as a group block and is not combinable with Interline or net rates. Offer is capacity controlled and can be withdrawn at any time. **Lead prices are shown in £GBP and based on cruise-only, dual occupancy including government taxes, port expenses and fees. NCL reserves the right to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions and to change or update fares, fees and surcharges at any time without prior notice. Government taxes, port expenses & fees, general excise tax (GET), discretionary onboard service charges and gratuities additional. Offers non-transferable, non-refundable, have no monetary value and cannot be substituted or customised. Offers and combinability subject to availability, capacity and change or withdrawal at any time. Full terms and booking conditions available at ncl.com. NCL (Bahamas) Ltd, UK Office, Mountbatten House, Grosvenor Square, Southampton, SO15 2JU. ©2022 NCL Corporation Ltd. Ships’ Registry: Bahamas and USA.
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NEW SHIPS
PICTURES: PRINCESS CRUISES/CHRISTOPHER ISON; VIKING CRUISES/ERIC LAIGNEL; ADAM HILLIER
a e the rst ste o ars iscover a fu ac e alace at sea or tr a erma cruise li e ow ma i a ame for itself i the ritish mar et e test out the latest lau ches from arou the cruise worl
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NEW SHIPS
VIKING MARS
or et flash rsts a atte tio rabbi e tras the latest a itio to i i s ocea fleet is all class s Jeannine Williamson
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irtually all new ocean ships launch with a fanfare about first-at-sea attractions and attention-grabbing facilities. The difference with every new Viking ship is that there is no difference between each vessel, and that holds true for Viking Mars, which was launched in May at a low-key ceremony in Malta. It might sound like a contradiction in terms, but it’s this very distinction that makes Viking stand out from the crowd. Going aboard the 930-passenger ship, which is number seven in the line’s ocean fleet, creates an instant feeling of deja vu for passengers who have sailed on its predecessors. There are also similarities with the river fleet, such as the Scandi-cool decor and areas such as the al fresco Aquavit Terrace. Even for first-time passengers, it’s easy to find your way around this ship. From the open-plan Living Room – which features an unconventional and airy reception, where staff can talk to passengers face-to-face rather than from behind the barrier of a huge shared desk – through to the lounges, | J U LY/AUGUST 2022
bars, entertainment areas and restaurants, the design is logical and well thought-out. Viking chairman and founder Torstein Hagen has stuck to his guns about creating refined and relaxed adult-only ships aimed at curious and
GOING ABOARD THE SHIP CREATES AN INSTANT FEELING OF DEJA VU well-travelled over-55s, rather than vessels trying to please everyone. So what you won’t find on Viking Mars (and, of course, all the others) is a casino, water park, formal nights, fees to dine in alternative restaurants, gaudy cocktails topped by paper umbrellas, photographers, art auctions or pushy spa staff trying to get you to buy products. Conversely, wine with lunch and dinner, Wi-Fi, tips and an included excursion in every port are among the many things you can expect on board. Crew members are incredibly attentive and intuitive. Borrow a book from one of the hundreds scattered
around the ship, or put your own on the bedside table, and you’ll return to your cabin to find a bookmark has been put in it by the steward. I asked about vegetarian options in the World Cafe buffet and, rather than just pointing them out, the chef surprised me by creating a special dish. Everything feels comfortable and effortless. Ashore, optional excursions on my Mediterranean cruise included fun experiences such as making pizza at a familyowned restaurant in Naples. Viking Mars is sailing in the Mediterranean, Scandinavia and northern Europe before relocating to Asia, Australia and New Zealand for8 winter 2022-23.
GETTING THERE A 15-night Across the Bay of Bengal cruise on Viking Mars, departing on November 14, 2022, sailing from Mumbai to Bangkok, starts from £4,590 per person including flights. For details, visit viking.com CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
PICTURES: ARCHIMAGE/ANTHONY WELLER; VIKING CRUISES/ERIC LAIGNEL; ADAM HILLIER
Clockwise from above: The main pool; Living Room area; infinity pool; Mamsen’s eatery; arriving at Valletta; Penthouse Junior Suite; the relaxed Wintergarden area
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DISCOVERY PRINCESS
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t the International Café, the barista glances at his screen, smiles and says: “Good morning, Melanie, same as last time?” Remembering your preferences is just one of the time-saving features of Princess Cruises’ Ocean Medallion, a small wearable device that enables everything from quicker embarkation to
locating your shipmates. It’s all very clever and convenient. This cutting-edge technology fuses seamlessly with Princess’s elegant design. Previous guests will recognise
much of the new Discovery Princess, the sixth and final Royal-class newbuild, but exploring further reveals subtle but impressive enhancements. The Piazza, resplendent in gleaming gold and glass, is still the focal point of the interior and is surrounded by shops, as well as places to eat and drink. In total, there are 25 bars and restaurants, including six speciality dining options
CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY FUSES SEAMLESSLY WITH PRINCESS’S ELEGANT DESIGN
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PICTURES: PRINCESS CRUISES/ CHRISTOPHER ISON; FIIPPO VINARDI
Al fresco dining, endless activities and state-of-the-art technology await on Princess Cruises’ newest ship, says Melanie May
NEW SHIPS
and the most al fresco eateries of any Princess ship. When it comes to al fresco facilities, spread across three decks are mini golf, a jogging track, sports court and children’s play area. For aqua fanatics, there are 10 hot tubs and four pools, including two deep-tank options and an infinity-style pool aft of the ship. Cruising with children? There are kids’ clubs for three to 17-year-olds. Once they’re safely dropped off, you can book a lounger or private cabana in the adult-only Sanctuary and enjoy the signature drinks, meals, massages and tranquillity. On the other hand, those seeking stimulation can head to the colourful, cacophonous casino. Wonderful wellness spaces include a gym with sea views, a spa and the impressive Enclave – Princess Cruises’ CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
largest-ever thermal suite – where you can revive in the hydrotherapy pool and relax in the hammam and caldarium steam chamber. Recharged, there’s no excuse to miss out on the non-stop events and activities. From sunrise yoga to movies under the stars, art auctions to Zumba action, you can choose to make your cruise as wild or as mild as you like. Entertainment on board includes original musical productions in the Princess Theatre and live performances in the ship’s many lounges. Once you’re ready to rest, a plush bed awaits in the staterooms, beautifully decorated in calming tones of teal and silver. The 3,660-guest ship has accommodation to suit a range of budgets, but the jewel in the crown is the Sky Suite, featuring 270-degree
panoramic views from the largest balcony in the Princess fleet. From April until September, Discovery Princess operates a season of seven-night Alaska cruises from Seattle. The ship then heads south to begin a series of Mexican Riviera and California coast voyages from 8 October until April 2023.
Clockwise from far left: The Sanctuary; Crown Grill; Bistro Sur La Mer; the Retreat pool area; Discovery Princess; Mini Suite
GETTING THERE A seven-night round-trip Alaskan cruise from Seattle departing September 11, 2022, starts at £416 per person (excluding taxes, fees and port expenses), based on two people sharing an Interior stateroom. More details at princess.com
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NICKOVISION
s d s n d ss n n s d fin n what’s possible on river cruises. By Jeannine Williamson
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uropean river vessels have to comply with strict length, height and width guidelines to fit into narrow locks and sail under bridges, which makes it a tricky job for lines that want to do something a bit different with their ships. Nicko Cruises, however, has managed just that with its new flagship NickoVision. In fact, its clever, wellthought-out design makes it hard to believe it carries up to 220 passengers, which is more than many other ships sailing on the Danube. Although the Nicko name might not sound that familiar, the long-established German line now offers English-speaking sailings aimed at Brits, which are bookable in the UK through cruise specialist Light Blue Travel. Seasoned river cruisers will immediately notice the details that make NickoVision decidedly different. Split-level decks and extensive use of glass make the ship feel incredibly light and airy throughout, and create a real sense of space that is most noticeable in the public areas. Instead of one long lounge with a bar, the room has been divided in two, with the bar situated at the bottom of a curved staircase overlooking the front
of the ship, and a lovely outdoor area for sundowners on warm evenings. A ceiling only covers part of the main dining room, with some of the tables visible from the bar and lounge, and
area for breezy days. The line’s motto is ‘Time to Discover’, reflected in unhurried itineraries that feature full days and overnights in cities such as Vienna and Budapest. Passengers can join included excursions, which are mostly walking tours, and still have plenty of time to do their own thing. Additional for-fee excursions are also available, such as a trip on Vienna’s landmark Prater wheel at night and a tuk-tuk tour in Budapest. NickoVision sails the Danube and fares include flights and transfers, four shore excursions on a week-long sailing, a drinks package covering wine, beer, cocktails and soft drinks, Wi-Fi and tips. No-fly cruises are available.
PICTURE: LEUE-PHOTO.COM/LARS BÖHNKE & HOLGER LEUE
SEASONED RIVER CRUISERS WILL NOTICE THE DETAILS THAT MAKE THIS SHIP DIFFERENT
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again this makes it feel especially bright and spacious. Notably for a river vessel, there are two additional alternative dining venues, both included in the fare. Cosy, jazz-themed Manhattan has all the atmosphere of an intimate bistro on dry land and again features a two-level design. It’s great for couples who prefer to dine alone as there are lots of tables for two, another rarity on most river ships. At lunchtime, it offers a lighter buffet option and in the evening serves the same à la carte menu that’s offered in the main dining room. At the back of the ship is Mario’s Grill, serving burgers and the like at lunch and becoming a steakhouse in the evening. The vessel has a gym and sauna and there are loungers, deckchairs and a hot tub positioned around the spacious sun deck, which also has a sheltered
Clockwise from far left, top: Sailing in Budapest; cabin on NickoVision; Panorama Salon; Mario’s Grill; sun deck facilities
GETTING THERE A seven-night Danube cruise on NickoVision, departing on October 24, 2022 and sailing round-trip from Passau, starts from £1,645 per person including flights. For details, visit lightbluetravel.co.uk Turn to page 58 to find out how you could win a Danube cruise for two on NickoVision, worth £5,000 J U LY/AUGUST 2022 |
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This page: Sveti Stefan island, Budva Opposite page: Olive market stall, Corfu 30
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PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/S-F; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/KROXI
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Above: Organic veg at a farmers’ market Right: Olive oil, Greece’s golden nectar Below right: New-look Vista Suite following the planned makeover of Marina
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ho says cruises can’t be educational? On my culinary-focused sailing through the Med I learnt plenty, including: one, I’m not half as bad a cook as I thought; two, I can now create a nifty bowl holder with a napkin and a flick of the wrist; and three, no amount of Greece’s golden nectar is ever enough when it comes to cooking. “When we see non-Greek people using such a small amount of olive oil to cook with, we always laugh,” attests our entertaining local tour guide Fofo with a hearty chuckle. We’re just back from searching the stalls of the Corfu town market for local ingredients including honey, olives and fig pie – a typical dessert which, depending on the season, is either bound together with the Greek aniseed-based tipple ouzo in winter or wrapped in fig leaves come summer. Clutching five euros, we were each tasked with finding and purchasing a specific ingredient. In my case it was dried oregano on the stem. Greek oregano, according to Oceania Cruises’ chef instructor Leah Caplan, is distinctive and earthy because it’s cultivated by the salty wind. Caplan, who discovered her love for food thanks to travelling through Asia as a child, tells us cooking is 90% patience and the rest, preparation. “Then you will find it more enjoyable,” she says. During our walk around the market and Old Town shops, we dodge the unseasonal rain showers by stopping for a tasting. We down chasers of local kumquat liqueur and keep to the sticky-sweet theme with some moreish caramelised nuts – a match made in heaven if ever there was one. Back on board Oceania Cruises’ Marina, host of our seven-night Venetian Vignettes cruise, we head to the Culinary Centre to complete part two of our foraging and
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PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/KASTO80/DULEZIDAR/TITOSLACK
cooking excursion. Overseen by executive culinary director Jacques Pepin, a master of French technique, the Culinary Centre offers hands-on instruction with master chefs. Ingredients on standby, we are instructed to cook a lunch of stuffed Kalamata figs; garlicky tzatziki; pastitsio, a Greek pasta bake; and yoghurt parfait, all washed down with a kumquat spritzer and a couple of glasses of Cretan rosé. It is by all accounts an epic feast, and one which has me so sated that I quite happily forgo Oceania’s legendary afternoon tea and in-suite canapés. Buoyed by the previous day’s achievements, this unseasoned chef ventures back a second time to master steak Diane teamed with almond-topped haricots verts and a perfectly dressed fresh green salad. It’s a triumph, even if I say so myself. The 1,238-passenger Marina launched 12 years ago and was last refurbished in 2016. Due to enter dry dock in 2023 for a spruce-up along with sister ship Riviera, it’s due to have a total overhaul of staterooms, lighter decor in public spaces and new dining options including an al fresco restaurant and a trattoria serving wood-fired pizzas. Oceania boldly claims to have the “finest cuisine on the ocean” and I am more than happy to put this to the test, with reservations for the four speciality restaurants (all complimentary on Oceania), plus two culinary classes. Whether you’re looking for a healthy pre-workout breakfast, bite-sized afternoon treats or a six-course champagne-paired dinner, you will find it on board. When I discover the Raw Juice & Smoothie bar, which offers plant-based, gluten and lactose-free smoothies, energy bowls and juices, I am hooked and gradually work my way through the menu. 8 CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
WHEN I DISCOVER THE RAW JUICE & SMOOTHIE BAR, I AM HOOKED AND WORK MY WAY THROUGH THE MENU Clockwise from main image: Greek taverna; the ship’s pool deck; Grand Dining Room
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It’s relatively easy to be virtuous, as there’s also a poke bowl station at Waves Grill and the Aquamar Vitality Cuisine menu in the Grand Dining Room, featuring calorie, fat and fibre-counted dishes such as soft-shell crab tempura with roasted cherry tomato aioli, and tamarind-braised grouper fillet with ginger sauce, steamed rice and stir-fried vegetables. But as we all know, cruise calories don’t really count, and there’s an abundance of decadent options, including a soufflé of the day, a diverse Sunday brunch, wine tastings and, of course, daily afternoon tea. I am drawn to the sweet-and-savoury snack options served every afternoon at Baristas coffee bar, while one of my favourite speciality dining experiences is at Asian restaurant Red Ginger, where I feast on fragrant chicken satay, followed by an impressive lobster pad thai laced with lashings of lime. Available 24 hours a day, room service is also complimentary, and unlike many cruise line in-room menus, there’s more choice than you might expect – which is ideal when you fancy a low-key movie night with some first-class dining on demand. Situated on deck 11, my Penthouse Suite is more traditional than overtly flashy, featuring dark woods combined with calming accents of taupe and duck egg blue. There’s ample storage along with some useful – and very necessary – touches such as a bathroom night light, refillable water bottles to keep, an excellent TV entertainment system, silk and cashmere throws for when it gets chilly, and a bed that will entice you into having the best night’s sleep you’ve ever had. Along with a personal butler who can help with anything from booking speciality dining to running a bath filled with
This page, from top: Selling produce on the Amalfi Coast; the Grand Staircase; Owner’s Suite foyer 34
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MED FOR FOODIES
Clockwise, from above: St George Island seen from Perast, Montenegro; ever-popular limoncello; learning new skills in the ship’s Culinary Centre
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/GEORGE STANDEN/GIVAGA/KAJAKIKI; MIKE LOUAGIE; VRX STUDIOS/JUSTIN KRIEL; DEBORAH JONES STUDIO
pink Himalayan salt, this suite category also gives you a generously proportioned balcony, a bathroom with bathtub and a walk-in wardrobe. Around the ship, suite guests also have the use of an Executive Lounge, as well as a private sun deck with loungers and two hot tubs. One morning, after a rocky night, the captain orders a sea day as high winds make it too challenging to dock in Kotor. I’m disappointed, but my shipmates turn it into a chance to hit the gym, test out the excellent spa with two relaxation rooms, sauna and steam room or try activities including team trivia and afternoon tea. Health and wellness facilities are excellent on Marina, with a large gym and fitness area, so I opt for a workout with ocean views, followed by in-room lunch, a pedicure 8
AS WE ALL KNOW, CRUISE CALORIES DON’T REALLY COUNT, AND THERE’S AN ABUNDANCE OF DECADENT OPTIONS CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
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MED FOR FOODIES
SORRENTO IS THE LIMONCELLO CAPITAL OF ITALY AND THERE ARE FRAGRANT LEMON TREES AND GROVES EVERYWHERE
and a culinary class – not a bad day after all. By the time we reach lofty Sorrento, the sky is once again cornflower blue – the views of the Bay of Naples and the private beach clubs jutting into the water are the definition of Mediterranean glamour, reminiscent of the iconic summer scenes documented by photographer Slim Aarons. This southern Italian coastal town, located west of the Amalfi Coast and a train ride from Pompeii, manages to capture both my heart and my taste buds – Sorrento is the limoncello capital of Italy and there are fragrant lemon trees and groves everywhere, bursting with life, and citrus fruit ripening in the sun. During our Alleys of Sorrento walking excursion, I enjoy wandering the maze of bustling streets in the Old Town, sampling gelato in Piazza Tasso, and shopping for edible souvenirs including zesty sherbet lemon sweets and bright bottles of limoncello. It’s a fitting way to savour the sights, smells and sumptuous flavours of a cruise that was a genuine feast for the senses.
GETTING THERE A seven-night Romantic Coastline itinerary on Oceania Cruises’ Marina costs from £2,519 per person based on two sharing a balcony stateroom and departing on April 20, 2023. For more information speak to your travel agent or visit oceaniacruises.com 36
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PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/CATHERINE PHILIP/GABRIELE MALTINTI
This image: A Sorrento lemon grove Below: Oceania Suite
MED FOR FOODIES
Alleyway with duomo steeple, Sorrento
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AUSTRALIA
PICTURE: TOURISM AUSTRALIA/CJ MADDOCK
Red
PL ANET The wild and remote Kimberley coastline offers n d n n finds Lizzie Pook
AUSTRALIA
F Above: Swimming in a secluded Kimberley bay 40
rom the Zodiac, the island in front of us looks like little more than a jellied smear, but as we approach – the sun blazing overhead and the sea as vivid as blue-green glass held to the light – the land mass appears to shimmer, then fracture into tiny little pieces, which rise slowly up and disperse into the air. I blink. Squint. My jaw falls open. It’s not the island that’s moving, it’s tens of thousands of seabirds billowing upwards: brown boobies, red-chested frigates, sooty terns and squalling noddies, swooping and soaring and filling every inch of expansive blue, like a Sunday night David Attenborough special. “On your right!” Our guide, Dr Frederique Oliver, excitedly points to the water. We peer over the side of the boat as a tiger shark powers stealthily by. “And here. Manta ray.” She gestures to the left. A dark shadow swoops along with wings as slow and as gentle as a ballerina’s arms. Scenes like these are becoming an everyday occurrence on our epic Kimberley adventure – a trip that’s already taken us through horizontal waterfalls, into other-worldly bays and creeks and along spectacular gorges, where ospreys watch on | J U LY/AUGUST 2022
with hunched shoulders and crocodiles bask with jaws wide open, sharp teeth glinting like polished silver in the sun. The Kimberley in far-flung northwestern Australia is a place imbued with spine-tingling history – from frontier wars and tales of dangerous pearl diving to Aboriginal Dreamtime stories and millennia-old landscapes. The region is almost double the size of the United Kingdom, with thousands of islands scattered along its rugged coastline, yet it has fewer people per square metre than almost any other place on Earth. Landscapes here are big and bold, and so are the weather systems, with monsoonal rains thundering down in the wet
THE LANDSCAPES HERE ARE BIG AND BOLD, AND BEST E X P L O R E D B Y W AT E R CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
PICTURES: TOURISM AUSTRALIA/JAMES VODICKA/MATT DEAKIN; PONANT/STUDIO JEAN-PHILIPPE NUEL; SHUTTERSTOCK/ROCKYPLANETPHOTOGRAPHY/ROBERT MCGILLIVRAY
season and some of the largest tides in the world sloughing the reefs and lapping ancient cliffs. It’s no surprise, then, that the Kimberley is a place best explored by water, and our 10-day expedition cruise with Abercrombie & Kent has already proven to be the very finest way to do it. Travelling from the old pearling town of Broome to the port city of Darwin in the Northern Territory, it’s put us right into the heart of this eye-popping destination, where milky turquoise seas lap crimson sands and fascinating human and natural history is brought to life in vibrant Technicolor. The cruise is an ideal add-on for any Western Australia CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
adventure, and many of my shipmates are pairing it with time spent swimming with whale sharks on Ningaloo Reef or go-slow epicurean breaks in WA’s most celebrated wine region, Margaret River, just a three-hour drive south from the capital city of Perth. Ponant’s Le Laperouse is a 184-passenger ship perfectly designed to deliver luxury in places that would be hard to point to on a map. And luxury is certainly the name of the game here. When we’re not off discovering hidden rock art or snorkelling lush reefs on our daily excursions, there’s a chance to unwind with a deep tissue massage or hydrating facial at the Ponant Yacht Spa. At mealtimes, a sommelier is on hand to recommend the perfect wine for every palate, and for those who don’t want to lift a finger (or get out of bed for breakfast), every suite comes with personalised butler service. Most spectacular in my opinion, though, are the inclusive helicopter trips, which take giddy guests to the stunning Mitchell River Falls and the Bungle Bungles range (Purnululu), affording once-in-a-lifetime views of the unusual 850-million-year-old beehive-like domes. 8 J U LY/AUGUST 2022 |
Clockwise from top left: Onboard sauna; humpback whale with calf; sunset on the Darwin waterfront; Wandjina cave art
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PICTURES: TOURISM AUSTRALIA/CJ MADDOCK; PONANT/NICOLAS MATHEUS/ NICK RAINS/CHRISTOPHE DUGIED; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/GRAEME SNOW
AUSTRALIA
Unsurprisingly, the food on Le Laperouse is exquisite, too. The breakfast buffet is a gratifying feast of eggs, bacon, sausages and fruit, with hot dishes such as Benedicts, pancakes and omelettes made to order (and lashings of champagne for those who like to start their day in style). Nemo restaurant, open to the elements on the aft deck, offers a hybrid of buffet and made-to-order dishes. Each night we tuck into wagyu burgers, barramundi, red snapper, stuffed calamari and steak as the fingernail moon gleams fiercely above us. Le Nautilus restaurant on the fourth deck is a fancier, table-service affair where dishes of lobster with celery remoulade and truffle dressing and king fish fillet with courgette and pea risotto are paired with the finest Artemis Domaines wines long into the night. But the most spoiling time of day is early evening, when we all gather for cocktails and canapes on the ship’s observatory deck, watching as the skies are set ablaze with crimson, lilac and gold in the Kimberley’s trademark sunsets. The ship’s 92 staterooms and suites (all with private balconies) are bright, airy and decked out in muted textiles CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
O U R G U I D E S A R E I M P R E S S I V E LY E X P E R I E N C E D , H AV I N G S P E N T DECADES BETWEEN THEM EXPLORING THE KIMBERLEY and tones. Our Deluxe Suite is just as impeccably curated and as spacious as any luxury hotel room, with a sink-into double bed, huge sofa and double doors opening onto a balcony with chairs and a lounger. Just as impressive as the cabins is A&K’s skilled expedition team. Our guides, helmed by expedition leader Brad Climpson, are impressively experienced, having spent decades between them exploring the Kimberley as well as Antarctica, the Russian Far East and the sunny South Pacific. Each day they help us efficiently into the Zodiacs and take us out into remarkable, unfathomable landscapes. At Porosis Creek, an eerily atmospheric mangrove swamp, Brad tells me tales of crocodiles launching themselves out 8 J U LY/AUGUST 2022 |
Clockwise from opposite page: Rockpool at Pender Bay; enjoying the view; crocodile by the King George River; Owner’s Suite; Porosis Creek 43
AUSTRALIA
This page, clockwise from top left: Brown boobies; Lost City caves, El Questro; upper deck area; yellow acacia flowers 44
of the water to snatch huge flying foxes dangling from the tree branches. At King George River, where towering bric-a-brac rocks perch vertiginously atop one another, geologist Jason Hicks points out burning red sandstone that has been honeycombed with wear and twisted into spiral staircase shapes by time and tides. As we snorkel off Ashmore Reef, surrounded by green turtles and velvety navy starfish, Dr Oliver, a scientist and wildlife filmmaker, tells us how she would swim for miles through shark-infested waters while working on research vessels throughout Australia. A nightly lecture series allows us to understand even more of the cultures and landscapes that we’re passing through. Anthropologist Dr Shirley Campbell helps us interpret the fascinating Wandjina paintings we spot at various points during our excursions, while Bart Pigram, a Yawuru guide and curator from Broome (Rubibi), speaks engagingly about his family’s history with pearl diving. This Aboriginal culture is further brought to life by the local people we meet who graciously showcase their homeland to us. And who better to have as our guides – | J U LY/AUGUST 2022
A BUSY MIND WILL NEVER BE BORED WITH ALL THE HISTORY AND N AT U R A L W O N D E R after all, this is a landscape Indigenous people have inhabited for millennia. At Freshwater Cove, local Worrorra guide Neil leads us through his island home, carpeted with swaying spinifex grass, purple hibiscus and yellow wattle flowers. When we reach a cave filled with beautiful art, the hairs on my arms lift in unison. Neil explains all of them to us, pointing out turtles, dugongs, fish and stingrays. Each image, thousands of years old, is a testament to how rich and abundant these surrounding waters really are. It’s also poignant to hear about local Aboriginal communities who were historically exploited by white settlers in this area. During our trip to the bird-filled CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/TREETSTREET; TOURISM AUSTRALIA/MATT DEAKIN; PONANT/NICOLAS MATHEUS/NICK RAINS; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/TRACIELOUISE
Lacepede Islands, where entrepreneurial Europeans mined guano (fossilised seabird excrement) in the 19th century, we’re told of how pearling masters once held Aboriginal people captive here, before trading them as reluctant crew members for their diving boats. A busy mind will never be bored with all the history and natural wonder that the Kimberley has to flaunt. And out here, even whiling away an afternoon on your balcony is an adventure. When we’re left with an afternoon at sea, I spend my time watching the flying fish, which skim effortlessly across the inky surface of the ocean like teeny tiny paragliders. Occasionally a brown booby will swoop by to pick one off for its supper, or a swarm of jellyfish will billow past the ship like puffy cumulonimbus clouds. I keep my binoculars poised for the pointed fins of dolphins, as they twist their bodies to pick off salmon from huge, swirling bait balls, and I delight in spotting the occasional sea snake drifting idly by, like a cooked noodle squiggled on the surface of the water. On our final day, as we pull into the historic port of Darwin, I reflect on what a thrill it is to have experienced in CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
such detail a landscape that few people will ever have the opportunity to see. To have it interpreted by those who’ve dedicated their lives to studying these rocks, these waters, these animals, and to spend time with those whose ancestors have lived, paddled and walked these lands for tens of thousands of years, is a rare and unforgettable privilege.
Above: Exploring the Kimberley coast in a Zodiac
GETTING THERE Abercrombie & Kent’s 12-night A&K Expedition – Kimberley Cruise: Australia’s Last Frontier 2023 costs from £12,699 per person based on two people sharing. Includes flights to Broome via Perth, transfers, excursions in Broome, activities on board and private balcony accommodation with butler service on a full-board basis. Find out more and book at abercrombiekent.co.uk Read more about expedition cruising at cruise-international.com J U LY/AUGUST 2022 |
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PREPARE YOUR TASTEBUDS
FOR A JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD EVERYTHING WE KNOW SO FAR
5% LOW DEPOSIT AND REGIONAL FLIGHTS
Arvia has more features than you can shake your keycard at. If you’re part of the P&O Cruises Lunch: loyal band of followers then you won’t be disappointed - Headliners Theatre and The Crow’s est are never far away, but Arvia wouldn’t be Lunchtimes are worth worthy of its Excel class status without a few not-so-little extras thrown in.
What’s on board?
SkyDome
The Grand
If you’ve already stepped aboard Iona, then you can’t have failed to notice her spectacular Sky ome. Arvia’s is much the same, but with one major difference - it’s retractable. Measuring a whopping 40.9 meters by 4.24 meters, this glass dome will be open or closed depending on what the weather has in store. By day, you can stare at clear blue skies as you chill out by the pool. Once sun Well, sets the which you will, have onboard watched from one of the many In the mood forthe food? choice is allofincourse, your hands P&O Cruises new Excel viewpoints on board , decks 1 fancy and 17 alive banquet with evening entertainment. Aerialon artists, class ship Arvia. Whether you a ficome ve-course in the main dining room cookery demos andor aJ sets - Sky Grand ome looks set or to The be the beating heart of Arvia. Celebration Night lightunder bite inthe thestars luminous Atrium Glass House, Arvia
has got something for everybody and every appetite. With menus inspired by your holiday destinations, you are sure to get a taste of them before you even set foot ashore.
looking forward to with specialty dishes from P&O Cruises Local Atrium Food Heroes.
The stunning Atrium will provide widescreen ocean views against the most spectacular backdrop. Aside from watching the scenery roll by, aerial performances will also be held in the triple-height space, alongside a full programme of live events and entertainment.
Breakfast: Starting your day off with a scrumptious breakfast in one of many restaurants onboard Arvia will keep your energy levels going for a fun packed full day of exploration. Enjoy an array of buff et options in the Horizon or a more bespoke breakfast in one of the main restaurants Coral, Opal, Aqua or Pearl. Not one to miss out on the most important meal of the day, you can also enjoy a luxurious start and experience breakfast in The Epicurean.
Canary Canary Islands Islands
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with a 5% low deposit MAIDEN VOYAGE
ARVIA (K203) | 9 DEC 2022 | 14 NIGHTS 9 DEC 2022 | 14 NIGHTS | K203
Cruise
Fares From
1,761 1,564
£ £
pp ◊ Per
Person
With With
with a 5% low deposit CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR
Fly from/to London*, Barbados, Curacao, Dominican Southampton, Funcal (Madeira), Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, Republic, St. Kitts, Antigua, St. Maarten, Martinique, Cadiz (Seville), Lisbon,(overnight Southampton St. Lucia, Barbados in port)
540 90
£ £
Caribbean Canary Islands
ARVIA (K301A) | 6 JAN 2023 | 16 NIGHTS 23 DEC 2022 | 14 NIGHTS | K204
Southampton, Funchal (Madeira), Tenerife, Southampton, (Funchal), Canaria, Gran Canaria,Madeira Lanzarote, Cadiz Tenerife, (Seville),Gran Lisbon, Lanzarote, Cadiz (Seville), Lisbon, Southampton Southampton
Cruise Club Club Fares From
£70PP LOW DEPOSIT ◊BOOK TODAY
^ ^
per cabin to spend on board per cabin to spend on board
Cruise Cruise Club Club Fares From Fares From
1,534 1,534
£ £
pp◊ Per
Person
With With
550 90
£ £
^ ^
per cabin to spend on board per cabin to spend on board
◊BOOK TODAY
with a 5% Caribbean low deposit Caribbean Transatlantic
ARVIA (K303A) | 4 FEB 2023 | 15 NIGHTS 6 JAN 2023 | 15 NIGHTS | K301
Fly from/to London*, Barbados, Curacao, Southampton, Tenerife,St.St.Kitts, Maarten, St. Kitts, St. Lucia, Dominican Republic, Antigua, St. Maarten, Barbados, Fly London Martinique, St.toLucia, Barbados (overnight in port)
Cruise Cruise Club Club Fares From Fares From
2,405 1,257
££
Regional departures at no extra cost.
0800 028 2177
The Cruise Centre indrick Way, Barlborough, Chesterfield, S4 4 E
◊pp Per
Person
With With
540 £90
£
^ ^
per cabin to spend on board per cabin to spend on board
Dinner:
Where is Arvia going?
Elegant surroundings and mouthwatering aromas are only the start of what Arvia has to offer at dinner time. From flawless service and delicately crafted, delectable dishes in one of theStudios main dining rooms to authentic Ocean tastes of the Mediterranean in The Olive Is thereyou anything more to relaxing than sitting Grove, are bound look forward to the back in front of evening a blockbuster following day’s meal. flick on a sea
Be among the first to experience Arvia, the brand new P&O Cruises ship. when she launches in ecember 2022. Take your pick from one of her incredible itineraries, ranging from seven to 22 nights. Arvia’s maiden voyage sets sail from Southampton on 9 ecember 2022, when guests will head down to the Iberian Peninsula in search of flamenco, fiestas and well-earned siestas. Madeira, Tenerife, ran Canaria, an arote, Cadi and isbonTea: are all on the itinerary for this Afternoon inaugural cruise.
day With Ocean Studios, you’ll get a proper big-screen experience from the comfort of your ship. The multi-screen boutique cinema has ultra-comfy seats and a myriad of movies to choose from, complete with all the popcorn and ice cream you could ever want. If you’d rather sit under the Sky ome and soak up the rays while you munch your way through a selection of movies, the everpopular SeaScreen has you covered.
The Quays: First rolled out on her sister ship Iona, the multi-venue dining piazza The Quays has something to please everybody. Welcoming a tasty new eatery on Arvia and reinventing the classic Sunday roast, you can enjoy a selection of roasted meats, served with all the trimmings in a golden Yorkshire pudding wrap.
Mission Control Escape Room
Feeling peckish between lunch and Then Arvia willdown be heading westwards dinner? Head to one of Arvia’sto Barbados for the winter season. main restaurants where2022 you2can enjoyIf you’re lucky enough to be on board, ports a traditional British afternoon tea. the From of call include Antigua, Barbados, Cura ao, finger sandwiches to freshly baked scones epublic andspeciality Martinique. all ominican washed down with teas, it is an unmissable indulgence.
Altitude Skywalk, Minigolf and Splash Valley Just when you think you’ve seen it all on board a P&O Cruises ship, they go and knock it out of the park with this sky-high spectacle. If you’re afraid of heights then look away now. Altitude Skywalk includes two courses scaling 54 metres above the ocean waves in the first P&O Cruises high ropes experience.
Even further into the future and who doesn’t want a holiday or six to look forward to , it’s now possible to book Arvia as far ahead as 2024. More Caribbean and Transatlantic itineraries await, so if you want a countdown to beat all holiday countdowns, add Arvia to your list. Barbados
ather keep your feet on the ground pick up a putter and try your hand at nine holes of tropicalthemed Altitude Minigolf on the level below. For the youngsters in your party, head to Altitude Splash Valley, a colourful outdoor play area with interactive water features. That should keep them happy for a good few hours
6th Street Diner:
Thought you couldn’t handle any more P&O Cruises firsts Arvia will also feature a submarineThink big-flavour American food favourites mixed with fun laid-back classic jukebox vibes themed, multi-sensory escape room experience. With two storylines to choose from and a host of and there you have it, 6th Street Diner. From chicken and waffles to bourbon twists and turns to navigate, Mission Control is sure to be a sea day hit.
mascarpone, you will feel like you are Stateside right onboard Arvia.
◊BOOK TODAY
Caribbean Caribbean
with a 5% low deposit
ARVIA (K304A) | 18 FEB 2023 | 15 NIGHTS 17 FEB 2023 | 15 NIGHTS | K304 Fly from/to London, Barbados, Curacao,
Fly from/to London, Barbados in port), Curacao, Dominican Republic, St. Kitts, (overnight Antigua, St. Maarten, La Romana, St. St. Maarten, Martinique, Martinique, St. Kitts, Lucia,Antigua, Barbados (overnight in port) St. Lucia, Barbados
Cruise
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2,474 2,207
££
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Person
Regional departures at no extra cost.
BOLSOVER CRUISE CLUB BEST HIGH STREET CRUISE AGENCY
BOLSOVER CRUISE CLUB BEST ONLINE CRUISE AGENCY
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with a 5% Mediterranean low deposit Caribbean Transatlantic
ARVIA (K308) | 16 APR 2023 | 14 NIGHTS 17 MAR 2023 | 16 NIGHTS | K306
Cruise
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989 1,376
£ £
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Regional departures at no extra cost.
◊ Per
Person
With With
ARVIA (K311) | 28 MAY 2023 | 14 NIGHTS 24 NOV 2023 | 15 NIGHTS | K324
Fly from/to (overnight London, Barbados in port), Tortola, Barcelona in port),(overnight Cadiz (Seville), La Romana, St. Maarten, Antigua, St. Kitts, Martinique, Southampton St. Lucia, Barbados
540 100
£ £
with a 5% low deposit
Southampton, La Coruna, Valencia, Marseilles,
Southampton, La Coruna, Valencia, Marseilles, Fly from London, Barbados (overnight in port), St. Lucia, Barcelona (overnight in port), Cadiz (Seville), Martinique, St. Kitts, Tenerife, La Coruna, Southampton Southampton
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Mediterranean Caribbean
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Cruise
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1,118 1,930
££
pp
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QUOTE: BCC REF 8119. ISSUED 06.07.22. The process of production/distribution takes several days and could therefore limit the availability of prices and accommodation as advertised, or they could not be available at all. Please see our website www.bolsovercruiseclub.com for the most up to date offers and availability Select Prices are per person and based on two adults sharing the lowest grade of cabin available. ^Book a new Select Price holiday Sea View cabin or above on applicable departures between 10 Jul 22 and 29 Oct 24 by 22 Aug 22 and receive extra on board spend to use during your cruise. ^Extra on board spend amounts shown are per cabin based on two adults sharing the lowest grade of Sea View cabin QUOTE: BCC 8118. ISSUED of production/distribution takes several days could limit the availability of prices and accommodation asand advertised, or they could not be available andREF amount shown 06.07.22. includesThe theprocess Select Price benefit of on board spend plus theand extra ontherefore board spend. Amount varies by cabin, cruise duration date and is not applicable available all. Please seecruises our website www.bolsovercruiseclub.com forapplies the mosttoupnew to date offers andor availability. This bookings offer applies to new andapplicable may be withdrawn by P&O Cruises without to Inside at cabins or on under 7 nights. ◊5% low deposit Select Price Early Saver made bybookings 22 Aug only 22 on departures from 10 Jul 22 tonotice. 29 Oct 24. excludes with Theany World Classic Journeysofand fly-cruises. For bookings madeTerms afterofthe balance due date full or amount willour bewebsite. due at This time It isOff notercombinable otherCruise, promotion and Southern is subject toHemisphere the booking conditions P&OExotic Cruises. A copy of Bolsover Cruise Club’s Business is available on the request by visiting of booking. Offan eroutline is combinable the current on board offorganised er on qualifying departures 10 be Julread 22 to Oct 24. with As the operates a fluid pricing policy these fares may advert contains descriptionwith of the cruises featured, whichspend are solely by P&O Cruises. It should in 29 conjunction P&Ocruise Cruisesline current brochure which contains full information about change and P&O Cruises reserve the right to change or withdraw these offers at any time in whole or on individual cruises without notice. A copy of Bolsover Cruise Club’s Terms of the cruise itineraries, accommodation details, booking conditions that apply, passport and health requirements, what’s included in the fare and other general information. Prices shown are per person, based Business is available on request or by visiting our website. This advert contains an outline description of the cruises featured, which are solely organised by P&O Cruises. It shouldon be twin occupancy in the with lowestP&O available grade within the categorywhich type, and alreadyfull includes current fuel surcharges anditineraries, Cruise Club Members Cashback details, at the time of goingconditions to print. Further terms and conditions read in conjunction Cruises current brochure contains information about the cruise accommodation booking that apply, passport and health requirements, what’s included in the fare other general information. Prices shown are per person, based on twin occupancy in the lowest available grade within the category apply, please call for details. Travel insurance, visa’s andand vaccinations are at an additional cost. E&OE. type, and already includes current fuel surcharges and Cruise Club Members Cashback at the time of going to print. Further terms and conditions apply, please call for details. Travel insurance, visa’s and vaccinations are at an additional cost. E&OE.
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5 OF THE BEST
WELLNESS RIVER CRUISES Clockwise from bottom left (this page): Healthy eating with Scenic, and its salt lounge; yoga with AmaWaterways; Spa treatments from Uniworld
The spas may be smaller than on their ocean counterparts, but river cruises are upping their game when it comes to health and wellbeing, finds ara ace eld
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WELLNESS HOSTS ON THE RHONE AMAWATERWAYS
Sail through Provence for gastronomic delights underpinned by health and fitness frills designed to feed body and mind. AmaWaterways’ European cruises have wellness hosts who organise complimentary daily activities ranging from Pilates and cardio classes to wellness walks and cycle rides on each vessel’s bikes. Guests can also take the plunge in the onboard pool or work up a sweat in the fitness room, before easing off with a well-earned spa treatment on this voyage aboard AmaKristina. A seven-night Colours of Provence sailing along the Rhone and Saone rivers between Avignon and Lyon includes cycling tours through Lyon, Avignon and along the ViaRhona cycle route near Vienne. From £2,454 per person for a November 24 departure, including flights (amawaterways.co.uk).
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SALT THERAPY ON THE DANUBE SCENIC
This Australian company promises to nourish body, mind and soul on its ‘Space-Ships’, so-called because of their airy surroundings. Scenic lays claim to having the only river vessels with salt therapy lounges as part of each ship’s wellness area, comprising a spa and gym. The sun deck, with a pool and walking track, is the venue for yoga and tai chi classes, but there are also healthy dining options, ergonomic ‘slumber beds’ and complimentary e-bikes. As part of Scenic’s Freechoice programme, guests can also opt for active, moderate or relaxed shore activities. A one-week Gems of the Danube cruise from Nuremberg to Budapest, including calls at Passau and Vienna, costs from £3,295 per person departing May 3, 2023 (scenic.co.uk). CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
WELLNESS
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ACTIVE & DISCOVERY IN HOLLAND AND BELGIUM AVALON WATERWAYS
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AYURVEDA YOGA ON THE GANGES UNIWORLD
PICTURES: MICHEL VERDURE; UNIWORLD RIVER CRUISES; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/DENNISVDW
Ever fancied conducting an orchestra, touring an extinct volcano or exploring a salt mine? Avalon Waterways packs energetic and immersive activities into Active & Discovery cruises that take guests off the beaten track and delve into local history and culture. Daily excursions are split into Active, Discovery or Classic to give different flavours of each destination. This voyage along the Dutch and Belgian waterways offers biking trips and walking tours, plus a chocolate-making workshop in Brussels and a pottery class in Rotterdam. A seven-night round-trip sailing from Amsterdam, including stops at Ghent and Antwerp, costs from £1,964 per person for a July 21, 2023, departure (avalonwaterways.co.uk).
Sunrise yoga classes and suspension training sessions organised by resident wellness instructors are highlights of Uniworld’s ‘wanderlust meets wellness’ philosophy, bolstered by its ships’ fitness centres and Serenity River Spas. Passengers can sample healthier dining options on its Travelling Lite menu and power through ‘Let’s Go’ excursions encompassing kayaking, hiking and cycling using the fleet of onboard bikes. A 12-night India’s Golden Triangle & The Sacred Ganges package includes two nights in Delhi and Jaipur plus an overnight stay in Agra and one-week round-trip sailing from Kolkata. This includes onboard yoga classes and meditation sessions led by a yoga guru, plus healthy cooking classes. From £5,499 per person, including flights, departing December 5 (uniworld.com).
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ICE GROTTO ON THE RHINE A-ROSA
The line’s German roots are evident in the ‘Spa-Rosa’ facilities across its riverboats, which boast a sauna, relaxation room, treatment rooms and a gym. Its newest and largest vessel, A-Rosa Sena, raises the bar with an expanded spa area where guests can also chill out in the ice grotto, luxuriate in the hot tub or relax on heated benches. A larger gym enables more group classes, the relaxation room boasts a fireplace and the top deck has two swimming pools. A one-week Rhine Discovery Amsterdam and Rotterdam round-trip sailing from Cologne on A-Rosa Sena, including calls at Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Antwerp, departs October 15. It costs from £1,749 per person (the-cruise-specialists.co.uk/river-cruises). CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
Clockwise from top left (this page): Amsterdam; Ganges Voyager, Uniworld; the spa and sun deck on A-Rosa Sena; Scenic e-biking
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C R O AT I A
HIGH
society
PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/VUK8691
What better way to explore the Croatian coast than by superyacht? Sue Bryant tests out new luxury vessel Emerald Azzurra
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C R O AT I A
I Above: Old Town and harbour, Dubrovnik 52
’m standing at the highest point of Rovinj, in the shadow of the baroque Church of St Euphemia, looking down over the terracotta rooftops of the medieval Croatian town. Distant islands shimmer in the heat haze and the Adriatic sparkles invitingly, although only a few swimmers are braving the still-cool water. A superyacht is anchored in the bay, a helicopter parked on its foredeck. Far below me, I can see people milling around on the quayside, gazing in awe up at my own superyacht, Emerald Azzurra, docked just below the Old Town. Well, not exactly mine, but as close as I will ever come to living the oligarch lifestyle. With just 100 passengers on board, cared for by 68 crew, Emerald Azzurra has many of the trappings of a private yacht but without the price tag. The ship is ultra-modern, with sleek lines and an inviting infinity pool on the aft deck. Extensive, padded lounging areas beckon from beside the pool and the oversized Jacuzzi on the Sky Deck at the top of the ship. The vessel’s cool, stylish interiors, with colour schemes consisting of grey, stone, taupe and lots of chrome, | J U LY/AUGUST 2022
are softened by leafy banks of plants. There’s nothing else really like Azzurra. A ship this smart and this small that won’t break the bank is a new phenomenon – and clearly a successful one as a second yacht, Emerald Sakara, is launching in 2023. Our fellow passengers, mainly from the US, Canada and the UK, are curious. They’re almost all experienced cruisers prepared to pay for luxury, but can live without the butler service and open bar offered by the more expensive lines. What comes up again and again during this week-long sailing from Dubrovnik to Venice is the bliss of the ship’s small size. This is the perfect vessel for exploring Croatia’s
THIS IS THE PERFECT VESSEL FOR EXPLORING THE ISLAND-SPECKED C O A S T O F C R O AT I A CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/SCHNEPFDESIGN; POMPEI LUCA
island-specked coast, where the best ports are often the smallest and we can tuck in neatly alongside. Everywhere we go is buzzing, as Croatia gets into the swing of the first big summer season since the pandemic struck. My partner, David, and I mooch around Dubrovnik, whiling away a sunny afternoon with a platter of cheese and air-dried ham, washed down with a chilled local white. There’s plenty of room on the Stradun, the smooth, limestone-paved promenade that bisects the glorious Old Town. I’ve been to Dubrovnik before when you could barely get through the gates in the massive ramparts, let alone stroll along the Stradun, an experience that does nobody any favours. To the locals, business isn’t quite back to normal yet. “The Americans aren’t back in the numbers that they were before,” says Lucija, our tour guide. “The Australians certainly aren’t – and none of the big Asian groups have come at all this summer. Sometimes it’s too much, but we would like a balance.” Not so great for Croatia but, selfishly, ideal for us. As if to illustrate Lucija’s point, Korcula has a wonderful stillness when we arrive the next day. It’s Sunday, and the locals are in church. I hang around the door, letting the soothing choral music waft over me. The town’s many art CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
galleries are just beginning to open. Restaurants are serving brunch: flaky burek meat pies, frittata, fruit platters and coffee, which is drunk very, very slowly. Nobody is in a hurry here. It’s a reminder of how much things have shifted, culturally, during lockdown, as if we’ve forgotten how to enjoy the pace of the Mediterranean lifestyle. Some rather high-maintenance types on our cruise struggle just to let go and relax, wanting constant stimulation. The Croatians look at them in bemusement. Once the church service is over, David and I climb the bell tower. This is a dizzying experience: narrow, extremely steep and something of a scramble at the top. It’s worth it, though. The views out over the rooftops and the glassy bay are dreamy, the only ripples formed by a group of kayakers. Emerald Azzurra is moored right next to the gates of the walled town, so we head back for a lazy lunch on deck. Meals on board are a very pleasant experience, as we 8 J U LY/AUGUST 2022 |
Clockwise from top left, this page: Emerald Azzurra; Observation Lounge; the Aqua Pool; Owner’s Suite bathroom
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C R O AT I A
WE TRY OUT E- BIKES IN Z A D A R , W H I Z Z I N G PA S T M A R I N A S , F I S H I N G B O AT S A N D WAT E R F R O N T PA R K S
PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/XBRCHX/ VIKTORIA HODOS/PHOTOSMATIC; POMPEI LUCA
Clockwise from opposite page: The city of Zadar; Terrace Suite; breakfast burek; writer Sue Bryant relaxes on board; Gregorius of Nin statue, Split
manage to get a table outside at La Cucina, the ship’s main restaurant, most of the time. This space on the aft deck accommodates almost half the passengers and Croatia is a wonderful place in which to enjoy it, as we often stay late in port, soaking up a fiery sunset as the first glass is poured and the menu arrives. The food is mainly Mediterranean, with dishes such as fried calamari, chicken parmigiana with polenta cake and a delicious lemon risotto on the daily-changing menu. Breakfast and lunch are buffets, while dinner is waiter-served. Lighter options are available at the Aqua Pool Lounge for breakfast and lunch, including a whole menu of flatbreads, which are a light but satisfying alternative to pizza. CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
I feel justified in tucking in at mealtimes, because despite the temptation to spend all day lounging around the yacht, we fill our time in port with plenty of activity. An excursion is included in most ports, with others available from around £85 upwards, which proves to be worth it for a walk in Krka National Park, a place of almost otherworldly beauty, located near Sibenik. On its way to the sea, the Krka River cascades over dozens of limestone rock shelves, some of the waterfalls more than 45m high. We wander along wooden boardwalks through forests of pine and fig, stopping every few minutes for jaw-dropping views of different falls tumbling into aquamarine pools. Dragonflies in electric blue hover over woodland streams. We try out the ship’s e-bikes in Zadar, cycling right around the enormous bay, whizzing past marinas, fishing boats and leafy waterfront parks. I’m very taken with my bike and investigate the make and price online. I’m shocked to see I’ve been riding around on £3,400-worth of equipment. There’s certainly been no expense spared in kitting out Emerald Azzurra. J U LY/AUGUST 2022 |
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PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/ZDENEK MATYAS PHOTOGRAPHY
C R O AT I A
Above: Skradinski Buk Waterfall, Krka National Park
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In Split, we join a hiking group to ascend Marjan Hill, a wooded headland that rises out of one end of the bay. The two-hour climb takes us through the medieval part of town, once considered an undesirable place to live but now all spruced up, pretty well every house an Airbnb. Out of town, we climb up to a viewpoint through scented pine forest, the hillsides covered with giant agave cacti and yellow broom in full flower. Below, tiny ferries, like bath toys in the distance, buzz to and from the many islands. Once per cruise, Emerald lays on a special event, billed as EmeraldPLUS. In Split, it’s a visit to the magnificent Diocletian’s Palace, a town-within-a-town that was built for the eponymous emperor in 305AD and which is still inhabited today. We descend into the cool gloom of the Roman foundations and cellars for a private klapa performance, the traditional a cappella singing that’s typical of Dalmatia. A male quartet regales us with melodic tales of love, life and loss, wonderfully atmospheric in this silent substructure with its perfect acoustics. That night, moored up in Split, there’s a party on the | J U LY/AUGUST 2022
Sky Deck after dinner. Evenings on Emerald Azzurra are generally low-key, apart from a couple of lively quizzes, but this one is different. Cocktails flow as disco classics thump out into the night and the middle-aged crowd goes wild, high on the moment and the knowledge that while we’re probably way too uncool for Split’s legendary nightlife, we can’t think of anywhere we’d rather be than the top deck of our very own yacht.
GETTING THERE Seven nights’ full board on identical new sister yacht Emerald Sakara, launching in 2023, costs from £3,970 per person on a cruise from Dubrovnik to Venice, departing on April 22, 2023, including flights, drinks with meals, tips, Wi-Fi, and some excursions. Find out more or book at emeraldcruises.co.uk. For more Croatia cruises, go to cruise-international.com CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
BOOK NOW
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25%
2023 Luxury Yacht Cruises Join us in 2023 on board our luxury yachts, custom-designed to allow unique access into the fascinating ports and harbours only small ships can reach. Our collection of insightful itineraries will take you on a spectacular journey along stunning coastlines and crystal-clear waters in contemporary luxury. Uncover new ports of call across the Mediterranean & Adriatic Sea, embark on an adventure to the Middle East & the Red Sea, and fall in love with our new voyages to the Caribbean, as well as our Transatlantic crossings. Explore iconic destinations independently at your own pace, or choose to join insightful guided tours on our included EmeraldPLUS excursions. With a wealth of generous inclusions, you can rest assured knowing your adventure with Emerald Cruises will make memories to last a lifetime.
8-Day Croatian Coast and the best of the Adriatic July, August & October 2023 Venice, Italy • Krk, Croatia Zadar • Šibenik • Hvar • Split Korcula • Dubrovnik
Always included... Return economy flights from London Heathrow (regional departures available on request) Airport transfers to and from your luxury yacht All on board meals
Cruise from £3,645pp Save up to 35% + FREE Premium Drinks Package
11-Day Gems of the Arabian Peninsula with Doha December 2022 & January 2023 Doha, Qatar • Sir Baniyas Island, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates • Abu Dhabi • Khasab, Oman • Fujairah, United Arab Emirates • Zighy Bay, Oman • Dubai, United Arab Emirates Cruise from £4,460pp
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10-Day Hidden Charms of the Caribbean November & December 2023 San Juan, Puerto Rico • Culebra Island • Vieques Island St. John, US Virgin Islands • Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands • Saint Barthélemy • Saint Kitts and Nevis St. John’s, Antigua, Antigua and Barbuda Cruise from £4,910pp
Wine, beer and soft drinks to accompany lunch and dinner ESPA luxury toiletries on board State-of-the-art coffee machines and tea stations Bottled water, restocked daily First-class service from an English-speaking crew Included excursions with knowledgeable local guides Complimentary Wi-Fi Gocycle electric bicycles on board All airport taxes and port charges ABTA and ATOL protected All gratuities on board
Book online at emeraldcruises.co.uk or call 0808 239 4479 Terms and conditions: All our holidays are subject to availability. Prices are correct at time of going to print (4th July 2022) are per person based on two people sharing, in low season, based on lowest available cabin grade and include relevant discounts. Supplements apply for single travellers, upgraded cabins and other departure dates. All offers are valid between 15th July and 31st July 2022. Super Earlybird and Earlybird Fares available for new 2023 bookings are limited in number, once sold out the Full Fare will apply. The up to 25% Super Earlybird saving is created by combining the Earlybird Fare (of up to 15% saving on the Full Fare) plus an extra up to 10% Pay In Full saving when paying in full 12 months before departure. If full payment is not received 12 months prior, the Pay In Full saving will be removed. Earlybird D Cabin fare must be paid in full 12 months before departure. Exclusive savings of up to 35% off the cruise cost and a FREE Premium Drinks Package is available on the Gems of the Arabian Peninsula itinerary only†. Savings are applicable on the cruise element only, excludes air fares, port charges, hotel stays and other additional items. In the event of suitable flights not connecting with cruise embarkation/disembarkation timings, overnight accommodation may be required at an additional cost. Our offers are not combinable, and we reserve the right to withdraw our offers at any time. Our itineraries, hotels, dates, and inclusions are subject to change. Flights may not be a direct service and a supplement may be charged. We recommend you seek independent advice regarding visas and vaccinations. For full booking conditions visit emeraldcruises.co.uk. E&OE.† Free Premium Drinks Packages apply to on board drinks only and excludes Champagne, wine by the bottle and mini bar beverages.
COMPETITION
Win
A £5,000 DANUBE CRUISE NICKO CRUISES AND LIGHT BLUE TRAVEL ARE
I
f you’re not familiar with Nicko Cruises, never fear – this Stuttgart-based cruise line has been happily taking European guests on relaxed river cruises for decades, and is marking its 30th anniversary this year. To celebrate, it is giving away a cruise for two along the Danube with a choice of different itineraries of up to eight days’ duration. All include flights from the UK, transfers, a cabin based on two people sharing, meals on board, selected shore excursions, tips and Wi-Fi. In partnership with its UK representative, river cruise specialist Light Blue Travel, Nicko Cruises offers specific English-language departures so you can enjoy guided excursions, onboard entertainment and everything else you love about a laid-back river voyage in English. All Nicko Cruises river ships meet a high standard, similar to a four or five-star hotel, and new vessels nickoVISION and nickoSPIRIT offer a choice of three dining venues with open seating and no additional fee.
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FOR TWO ON NICKOVISION PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/DAVIDIONUT; SHUTTERSTOCK/FOOTAGECLIPS/BELLISIMO
GIVING AWAY A LEISURELY EIGHT-DAY RIVER CRUISE With a selection of excursions included at every port, you can enjoy a guided trip to the Schönbrunn Palace and gardens in Vienna, a walking tour through the hills of Buda and the flatter planes of neighbouring Pest, or a visit to the main castle (hrad) in the Old Town of Bratislava. You can choose your preferred Danube itinerary with durations ranging from between five and eight days, with a selection of departures on brand-new river cruise ship nickoVISION until December 2022 and from April to July 2023.
HOW TO ENTER For your chance to enjoy a river cruise along the Danube with Nicko Cruises and Light Blue Travel, simply answer the question below before the competition closes at 11.59pm on September 12, 2022. What is the name of Nicko Cruises’ newest river ship? nickoVIDEO
nickoVALUE
nickoVISION
To enter, go to cruise-international.com/win-a-danube-river-cruise-for-two
Terms & Conditions: The competition is open to adults aged 18 and over who are resident in the UK. One entry per person. The prize is based on two people sharing a cabin including flights, transfers, cabin accommodation, all meals on board, selected shore excursions (as detailed on itinerary), gratuities and Wi-Fi. Please note transfers include a train connection between Munich airport and Passau. Prize must be booked before September 30, 2022, for travel by December 31, 2023. The prize can be redeemed on any applicable Danube itinerary, within the conditions outlined above, up to eight days in duration. Total prize value up to a maximum £5,000. No cash alternative. Cannot be combined with any promotional offers. Subject to availability. All entries must be received by the closing date of 11.59pm on September 12, 2022. Terms and conditions apply. CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
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H AWA I I
ai
PAR ADISE Say ‘aloha’ to Hawaii on a cruise through these paradise islands, writes Jane Archer
I
PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/MARIDAV; NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE/MICHAEL DEYOUNG
t’s 3.30am and I’m on my way to the top of the Haleakala volcano on the Hawaiian island of Maui to watch the sun rise. Yes, I know crazy o’clock is not the time you want to be getting up on holiday, but I’m told this is a must-do when you’re in Hawaii so, well, I must do it. Preston, our guide, keeps the lights off as the coach zigzags up the mountain so those who want to can sleep. Me? I’m wide awake as my body clock is still on UK time, 11 hours ahead of the islands. I peer out of the window into miles of darkness and savour the fact that light pollution has not infected Maui. “You’re in the most remote place on the most remote islands in the world,” Preston tells us as we reach the top nearly two hours later. Specifically, we’re almost 2,400 miles from California, 3,900 miles from Japan and 10,000 feet above sea level. Not that you’d guess it’s that remote given all the people here, cameras poised, for the moment the sun appears over the horizon. The sky has a magnificent amber glow and, slowly, the first rays of the sun start to peek through. The day has begun. We return to the coach and commence the slow journey back to Norwegian Cruise Line ship Pride of America, arriving just in time for breakfast. I’m sailing from Honolulu, overnighting in Maui and Kaua’i and visiting Hilo and Kona on Hawaii (aka Big Island) – an unusual itinerary this ship is allowed to do because it’s registered in the US and has an all-American crew. I can fly in, hop on and visit four islands and five ports in seven days instead of needing the four or five days’ sailing it takes other lines to get here from the US West Coast (and then 8 the same going back), on top of the time spent in Hawaii itself. CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
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THE SHIP IS A SHRINE TO ALL THINGS AMERICA B U T A L S O P AY S H O M A G E T O H A W A I I A N C U LT U R E
Clockwise from above: American stylings on board; breadfruit tree; South Beach Pool; Wailua Falls 62
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The ship is a shrine to all things America – I have lunches in the Cadillac Diner, dinners in Jefferson Bistro, drinks at Ocean Drive Bar and watch live bands in Mardi Gras Lounge – but also pays homage to Hawaiian culture, with local singers and hula dancers as we embark, a Hawaiian buffet in the Aloha Cafe, lei-making classes and Big Wave beer behind the bar. Most of the 1,100 passengers (half the ship’s capacity, as dictated by Covid rules) are American, but there are a handful of fellow Brits and a few Australians. Between us we cover all ages, from toddlers to grandmothers. To make the most of the trip, many have added a few pre-cruise nights in Waikiki Beach, where surfers ride the waves by day and buskers and street painters keep the crowds entertained after dark. As a Hawaii first-timer, I’m packing in as much as possible this week, starting with a waterfalls-and-rainforest hike in Maui. “Don’t ask me to take pictures of you jumping off the waterfalls because I’ll be busy making sure no one drowns,” is the tongue-in-cheek advice from guide Marko as we set off. A few brave souls scramble eagerly up rocks beside the first waterfall and jump off – but only once. “That was scary. I won’t be doing it again,” Martin from Australia tells me. The waterfalls are beautiful, two at 15ft high, the largest more than 40ft, but the rainforest is the highlight for me. Marko, originally from San Francisco, is a mine of information, pointing out breadfruit trees, exotic tapioca, mango and ti plants, and taro, the roots of which are used to make a rather unappetisinglooking starchy paste called poi. “You must try it,” Marko says. There are many things I have to do while I’m here, but I decide that this is not one of them. All bar one of the ports on this cruise are out of town, so while you can do your own thing ashore, you need to book a hire car, taxi or local tour. The exception is Kona, where a tender normally takes you right into town. Unfortunately, on Kona morning we wake to news that there’s too much swell to get us ashore safely so we have a day at sea instead. I’m happy to take the ship’s tours as it means I can tick off my Hawaii wish list while gleaning nuggets of information from the guides. There are more than 130 atolls and isles in the archipelago but only eight main islands. Of those, Hawaii is the biggest geographically, but Oahu is streets ahead by population. Because they are so remote, almost everything has been imported, even pineapples and coconuts, which came with the first Polynesians 2,000 years ago. More recently, rats, mongooses and mosquitoes arrived on passing ships, which is a problem because they are killing off native birds. I learn that Hawaii used to have more cowboys than Arizona, that the islands are moving a few inches closer to Japan every year and that Hilo is seriously unlucky, having been hit by a tsunami in 1960 that killed 61 people and a volcanic eruption in 2018 that sent ash and lava spewing 11,000ft into the air and destroyed more than 700 homes. 8 CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
PICTURES: NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE/OLIVIER KONING; GETTY IMAGES/ ISTOCKPHOTO/MTCURADO/HAIZHANZHENG; CHRISTIAN SANTIAGO
H AWA I I
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PICTURE: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/MARCPO
H AWA I I
IT’S CR AZY O’CLOCK AND I’M O N M Y W AY T O T H E T O P O F HALE AK AL A VO LCAN O O N MAU I T O W AT C H T H E S U N R I S E 8 CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
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H AWA I I Clockwise from bottom left: Capitol Atrium on Pride of America; Kilauea is still smouldering; a traditional dance display; tiki carvings on Kona
GETTING THERE A seven-night Hawaii: Inter-island cruise round-trip from Honolulu on Pride of America costs from £3,140 per person departing January 14, 2023, based on two sharing an inside cabin. The ship calls at Kahului in Maui, Hilo and Kona in Hawaii, and Nawiliwili in Kaua’i. Price includes return economy-class flights, local transfers, a pre-cruise hotel where necessary, drinks, Wi-Fi, some speciality dining and one $50 shore excursion credit at each port. Flights are often, but not exclusively, via Los Angeles, San Francisco or Vancouver. Contact your local travel agent or go to ncl.com to book. Read more about US cruises at cruise-international.com 66
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PICTURES: CHRISTIAN SANTIAGO; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/35007/ BACKYARD-PHOTOGRAPHY; SHUTTERSTOCK/DEBORAH KOLB
I go to see Kilauea, which is still smouldering to this day after the explosion, in Volcano National Park. “If anyone needs a bathroom, there’s one over there. We call it a lava-tory,” jokes our guide Lili. She tells me that 20 miles away from Hawaii, deep under the ocean, a new island is being created by volcanic activity. It’s an exciting thought until she admits that it’ll be hundreds of years before it reaches the ocean’s surface. Kaua’i is nicknamed the Garden Isle but it should be known as Hawaii’s Hollywood. It’s home to a whole host of celebrities, including Pierce Brosnan, Bruce Willis, Bette Midler and Julia Roberts, and is the place where the Jurassic Park franchise, Raiders of the Lost Ark, King Kong and countless other movies were shot. We’re staying here overnight, so I book front-row seats at a luau, a traditional Hawaiian party where a pig is cooked in a fire pit, the alcohol is free-flowing and singers and dancers act out the journey their ancestors took to get to Hawaii all those centuries ago. Next day I take a boat along the Wailua River to Fern Grotto, a lava rock cave popular with couples tying the knot, where our hosts perform the wedding song. “This is a great island for honeymoons because there’s nothing to do in the evenings,” guide Rosario laughs. Too soon it’s the end of the cruise, but there’s one more adventure to tick off because I’m spending my last day in the islands at Pearl Harbor, the naval base that was attacked by the Japanese on December 7, 1941, bringing the US into the Second World War. The story is played out in exhibitions, films and on Mighty Mo, the battleship on which the Japanese surrendered. It’s a sobering experience but rounds off my must-do list. Or at least it would have, except I’ve just added Kona to the bottom.
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SINGAPORE
City guide
Cruise ships have restarted calls to Asia’s premier cruise hub, so it’s time to rediscover the joys of Singapore, writes Katie McGonagle
T
urning a quiet corner in Joo Chiat, we’re greeted by a fleet of vintage Vespas, lined up in a row along the roadside and decked out in rainbow-bright shades – cherry red,
powder blue and mustard yellow – all with sidecars styled to match. While passers-by look on in puzzlement, I’m handed a helmet and pointed towards the corresponding scooter, where my guide and driver, a Brazilian-turnedSingaporean called Guillermo, awaits. A few words of advice later and we’re scooting through the streets of this heritage district in a curiouslooking convoy, passing historic shophouses with their candy-coloured facades, eye-catching street art and
Bottom row, from left: Bay Suite, Mandarin Oriental Singapore; popiah; Gardens By The Bay; shophouses on Koon Seng Road
getting an occasional glimpse of modern glass-and-steel skyscrapers in the distance. It’s a novel way to explore a city and I can see why it
What to do
has become a must-try tour, letting time-pressed cruise
The whistlestop tours with Singapore Sidecars range
passengers tick off many of Singapore’s diverse districts
from one to three hours, with options to focus on art,
in one go while having fun at the same time. We skim
history, design or even creative themes including a
through Kampong Glam, Telok Ayer, Little India and
Crazy Rich Asians tour visiting the city’s distinctive
Chinatown, watching as the buildings transform from
black-and-white houses, a legacy of Singapore’s colonial
one style to another and getting an introduction to the
past. Prices start from around £106 per person.
cultural melting pot that is Singapore. With ships able to depart from this key Asian port
Once you’ve got your bearings, return to the cultural districts to explore in more depth. Visit the colourful
once again, the city-state is making a cruise comeback,
Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Museum and Hindu Sri
so we check out what to see and do before you set sail.
Mariamman Temple, which sit a stone’s throw from each other in Chinatown, or stroll through Little India to see its impressive street art. With the help of guide Karni Tomer, owner of foodie tour company Wok ’n’ Stroll, I start the day with dosa dipped in spicy chutney and cooling raita, served with sweet milky tea. We marvel at the neon-bright Indian desserts on display, then walk the narrow back-streets where she explains the stories behind murals depicting everything from traditional Indian folklore to the real-life tales of Chinese settlers arriving in Singapore (three hours, £70 per person).
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CITY GUIDE
Main image: Waterfront area Top row, from left: Sri Mariamman Temple; hawker centre in Chinatown; Buddha Tooth Relic Temple; Singapore Sidecars in Haji Lane; Singapore Flyer
What to see Singapore’s heritage districts are only half the story – this modern metropolis is awash with new development around its waterfront area, where the huge wheel of the Singapore Flyer and the Marina Bay Street Circuit racing track sit opposite the lotusflower-shaped ArtScience Museum and the towering super-trees of Gardens By The Bay. Although the huge, man-made trees are impressive, they don’t match up to the array of lush tropical plants on display in the Flower Dome, with its gushing waterfall and fragrant scents wafting through the air.
PICTURES: SINGAPORE TOURISM BOARD; GETTY IMAGES/POP JOP; HYPE DIGITAL; YIK KEAT; HOSANNA SWEE; URA; THE TRAVELLER DMC; ERIC AU; RORY DANIEL
And if it’s views you’re looking for, they won’t come better than from 57 storeys up at the SkyPark
the Cherry Garden restaurant
Observation Deck. You’ll see swimmers going to and
has, likewise, brought a
fro in the stunning infinity pool at Marina Bay Sands,
sense of sophistication to
admire the city’s mishmash of architectural styles and
traditional dishes, served up
huge swathes of green spaces, and look out across
in atmospheric surroundings.
the bay where you might even spot your cruise ship
Rooms at the luxury hotel,
coming into port.
where upper floors boast knockout views across the
Where to eat
bay, start at £236 per night.
Food is at the heart of any Singapore stay, with favourites like Hainanese chicken rice – a dish that was
Getting there
developed by southern Chinese immigrants – or spicy
Royal Caribbean International has restarted cruising
Malaysian-influenced chilli crab offering a taste of the
from Singapore on Spectrum of the Seas, which is
city’s diverse cultures as well as its local ingredients.
homeported there, along with Asian cruise line
The best way to experience Singaporean cuisine
Resorts World Cruises. Regent Seven Seas Cruises and
is to compare its fine-dining restaurants with the
Oceania Cruises are among those set to follow this
no-frills fare of its hawker stalls – there are hawker
year, while Celebrity Cruises, Holland America Line,
centres dotted all over the city, where you queue up for
Silversea, Seabourn and P&O Cruises are due to restart
flavour-packed dishes at impossibly low prices then sit
calls at Singapore in 2023. Direct flights are available
at shared tables to eat.
from Heathrow with British Airways, or Heathrow
Po in The Warehouse Hotel has elevated traditional
and Manchester with Singapore Airlines.
Chinese cuisine into an art form, with helpful waiters to guide you through dishes including soft-shell crab, spicy tamarind barramundi or popiah, a spring
For more city guides and destination updates, log on to cruise-international.com
roll-like wrap that you assemble at the table. At the five-star Mandarin Oriental, the Cantonese menu at
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Northern Lights, Norway CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
PHOTOGRAPHY
exposure
MA XIMUM
PICTURE: HURTIGRUTEN/STIAN KLO
Pretty-as-a-picture views, eye-catching portraits or thrilling wildlife sightings? Joanna Booth focuses on the best cruises for keen photographers
PHOTOGRAPHY
NORWAY Capturing the Aurora Borealis on camera is a thrill – the colours look even brighter through a lens. When the sky puts on a show, you want to be far away from light pollution, so being on board ship is ideal. Hurtigruten’s classic Norwegian coastal voyages spend half the itinerary above the Arctic Circle, maximising the chances of seeing the phenomenon. In fact, the cruise line is so confident it offers a Northern Lights Promise – another free voyage if they fail to show. You’ll need a camera with manual settings and a tripod. Hurtigruten recommends choosing a wide-angle lens, setting your focus to infinity, your aperture to f4 or lower, and your ISO high, at 800 or above. Experiment with your shutter speed to see what gets the best results. Hurtigruten’s 12-day Classic Round-trip Voyage sailing from Bergen to Kirkenes and back starts from £1,596, during the auroral season of October to March (hurtigruten.co.uk).
THE RHINE From the steep-sided, castle-spotted Rhine Gorge and the shaded paths of the Black Forest to the canals of Amsterdam and the half-timbered houses of Bernkastel, the views on cruises down the Rhine and Moselle are some of the prettiest in Europe. On selected sailings with Avalon Waterways, you’ll be joined by photographer Brenda Tharp, who’ll share onboard presentations, lead photo walks and oversee a fun contest to select the best shots taken on the cruise. She says: “Early morning and late afternoon are usually the best times for interesting light. Since the boat is often docked at the start of the day, try to take an early-morning walk before breakfast to experience and photograph the town without all the tourists. When photographing from a moving boat, keep your shutter speed fast enough to prevent scenes from coming out blurred. And don’t rest your camera or arms on the boat rail – you’ll transmit vibrations.” The 12-day Rhine & Moselle with One Night in Amsterdam for Photography Enthusiasts on board Avalon Imagery II departs on October 5 and starts from 8 £2,971 (avalonwaterways.co.uk). 72
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The Rhine running through Basel, Switzerland
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PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/SCSTOCK
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ANTARCTICA
The French Overseas Territory of New Caledonia is a quintessential South Pacific idyll, where lush, tropical vegetation nestles around inky limestone cliffs and the clear waters are home to vibrant coral reefs where turtles swim. Ponant’s voyage has been created in partnership with National Geographic, and Le Soleal will travel with both an expert and a photographer from the brand on board, helping to give you deeper insight into both the local Kanak culture and plenty of tips on how to capture the best possible shots of this beautiful region. It’s of the utmost importance to respect traditions, and guests should exchange greetings as well as bring a small gift when visiting Kanak clans. French is widely spoken, so ‘bonjour’ and ‘merci’ will go a long way. And don’t forget to ask permission before taking any photos – some people might not be comfortable with being photographed, and various structures are considered sacred. To make the most of the bounteous marine life, invest in an underwater case to protect your phone. The 10-night Pacific Islands Discovery, sailing from Noumea to Auckland, departs on November 22 and starts from £4,330 (uk.ponant.com).
Pure light, pristine terrain and unique wildlife make Antarctica one of the most rewarding cruise destinations for budding photographers. Days spent trekking over ice or speeding through the frigid waters in a Zodiac throw up chances to shoot epic landscapes and dramatic animal encounters, from breaching whales and slumbering seals to raucous penguin rookeries. Viking Cruises’ resident photographer, Alastair Miller, advises: “Bring extra camera batteries, because they drain quickly in low temperatures. As you move from the cold exterior to the warm ship, condensation will fog up your lens. One solution is to bring a sealable airtight bag to put your camera and lenses in, so they can slowly adjust to a warmer temperature. However, on board Viking Octantis, each stateroom comes with its own drying cabinet for wet clothes, and I discovered that by putting my cameras in there, in the time it took to have lunch they would be all nicely condensation-free for the afternoon.” The 13-day Antarctic Explorer on Viking Octantis – with a Viking photographer on board – starts from £12,995 including return flights from the UK, based on November 2022 departures (viking.com). 8
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PICTURES: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/MLENNY; VIKING CRUISES/ALASTAIR MILLER
Above: Lagoon at Tadine Bay, Maré Island Opposite page: Gentoo penguins, Antarctica
SOUTH PACIFIC
PHOTOGRAPHY
PHOTOGRAPHY
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PHOTOGRAPHY Left: Castle Stalker in Loch Laich, west coast of Scotland Below: A puffin takes flight
THE HEBRIDES
PICTURES: GARY BARBER; ST HILDA SEA ADVENTURES
No passport flexing is necessary on this close-to-home, small-ship cruise that sails around the far-flung and photogenic Hebridean islands. Soaring sea cliffs, wild-flower meadows, white-sand bays and oak forests are home to red deer, sea eagles and puffins. Sailing with you on board the 12-passenger Seahorse II is Gary Barber, a photographer who first experienced the cruise as a guest and now returns each year as an expert tutor. “Keep your eyes peeled,” he says. “Wildlife waits for no man, and you never know when a pod of dolphins could appear or an eagle might swoop in for a kill. Choose a fast shutter speed to capture the action, and leave your ISO setting on auto. You’ll be switching quickly between different backgrounds and won’t have time to manually adjust to suit the light levels.” St Hilda Sea Adventures’ seven-night Isles of Mull and Small Isles Explorer: Photography Tutor Onboard trip departs August 19, 2023, and starts from £2,170 (sthildaseaadventures.co.uk).
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PHOTOGRAPHY
Searching for wildlife in Svalbard
SVALBARD
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PICTURE: SECRET ATLAS/FLORIAN LEDOUX
The Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard is one of the world’s best places to see polar bears in the wild and, because they roam over ice floes and the shoreline, a ship is the best vehicle to track them in. And if you want to take the best pictures, then expert photographer Florian Ledoux, whose recent credits include Disney’s recent Polar Bear documentary, is the man to help. Ledoux will accompany a Svalbard cruise with small-ship polar operator Secret Atlas, sailing on high-spec, 12-guest expedition vessel Explorer. As well as polar bears, you’ll have the chance to spot walrus and whales among the glaciers and icebergs, and with a May sailing, you’ll have 24-hour daylight to make the most of every photo opportunity. If you’re wondering what kit to bring, Ledoux recommends a full-frame camera, plus a long lens of at least 400mm. “I also use a 60-600mm zoom which allows different framing – if you’re stuck on a Zodiac, for instance. But technical parameters only matter so much. Be open to anything – there is beauty all around the place!” The nine-day Natural Wonders of Svalbard Photo Tour departing May 13, 2023, starts from £7,500 for an en-suite double cabin (secretatlastravel.com).
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BY APPOINTMENT TO HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II SWAROVSKI OPTIK SUPPLIER OF BINOCULARS
NL PURE 32 ONE WITH NATURE SEE THE UNSEEN
Mykonos town, Cyclades Islands
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GREEK ISLES
AEGEAN PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/PROSLGN
express
If you’re short on time but big on sights, Jeannine Williamson tests out a mini cruise you can do in a weekend
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Clockwise from above: Writer Jeannine Williamson feels the squeeze in Mykonos; Minoan murals (top): the ship’s old-school stylings (bottom); Palace of Knossos ruins; Celestyal Olympia; the waterfront in Little Venice, Mykonos
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“W
e will forget everything and walk back in time,” says guide Mania as we enter the courtyard at the Palace of Knossos. “Imagine the king sitting on his alabaster throne and women with their jewellery shining in the sun.” Thanks to Mania’s lyrical descriptions, the vast site – considered by many historians to be Europe’s oldest city – comes to life as I turn back the clock 4,000 years. In the space of a couple of hours I walk in the footsteps of royalty, the ancient Minoans and the mythical half-man, half-bull minotaur, as well as British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans, who led the team that spent more than 35 years painstakingly excavating the site first uncovered in 1878. Exploring the ruins and partially restored areas of Knossos, the largest Bronze Age archaeological site on the island of Crete, is certainly a diverse experience. I’m enthralled as I listen to Mania’s tales of kings and queens, secret storage rooms and giant pottery wine and olive oil jars – or pithoi – that needed 10 people to lift them. We then delve deeper into the labyrinth of staircases and corridors that once connected the palace’s 1,400 rooms spread over four floors. But soon it’s time to come back to the present and move on. By lunchtime I’m back on board Celestyal Olympia for the next stop on this short sailing around Greece, which brings a whole new meaning to island hopping. While Greek line Celestyal Cruises offers week-long and leisurely 14-night sailings in the Aegean and beyond, it also has three and four-night mini cruises. I’m on the former, which is the shortest ocean cruise I’ve ever taken. With two ports of call each day, it’s a fantastic and value-for-money | J U LY/AUGUST 2022
way to get a real taste of Greece on the floating equivalent of a long weekend. Alternatively, because the itinerary starts and finishes in Athens, you could tack on a city break in the Greek capital. It might sound rushed, but curiously things never feel hurried. One of the reasons is that Celestyal Olympia is a relatively small ship, carrying 1,664 passengers, and it’s easy to get on and off. Passengers can choose to explore under their own steam, with up to eight hours at some stops, or sign up for optional excursions and still have time to head to a taverna for a refreshing Mythos beer or stroll through stunningly pretty waterfront towns, each seemingly more beautiful than the last, with their characteristically dazzling white buildings and azure blue shutters. In fashionable Mykonos, where celebrity visitors over the decades have included Elizabeth Taylor, Brigitte Bardot, Jackie Kennedy, Leonardo DiCaprio, Tom Cruise, Beyoncé and Tom Hanks – to name just a few – we rub shoulders with countless Instagrammers looking for spots in which to strike a perfect pose. But it’s a shame to simply view this cosmopolitan celebrity hotspot through selfies. Instead, we get lost in the maze of streets leading up from Little Venice, whose old houses perch on the edge of the sea. With no particular place in mind we wander through traffic-free cobbled lanes, where dazzling pink bougainvillea tumbles down balconies and walls, eventually coming to the narrowest of them all. Said to be the skinniest street in the whole of Greece, if not the world – locals fiercely contest the Croatian island of Krk’s claim to hold the record – it measures just 39cm across. I can’t resist seeing if I fit (just about) and hope I don’t get stuck or meet someone coming the other way. 8 CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK/YURII T/IULIIA N/SCSTOCK; GEORGE GIANNAKIS
GREEK ISLES
EXPLORING THE RUINS OF KNOSSOS ON THE ISLAND OF CRETE IS A DIVERSE EXPERIENCE
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GREEK ISLES
C E L E S T Y A L O LY M P I A IS AN OLD-STYLE SHIP W I T H A C O M F O R TA B L E AN D L AI D - BAC K VI B E
PICTURES: GEORGE GIANNAKIS; SHUTTERSTOCK/NEJDET DUZEN
Clockwise from opposite page: Celestyal Olympia sails past Patmos; Horizons Lounge & Bar; Ephesus; harbour in the village of Skala, Patmos Afterwards we take advantage of the late 10.30pm all-aboard time and linger awhile in town. It’s too early to sample the island’s legendary nightlife, which doesn’t get going until midnight, so we settle for a meal in a small restaurant overlooking the gently lapping sea and watch the sun disappear over the horizon. The meal is all the more atmospheric when a power cut hits a section of the beachfront and we eat by hastily arranged candlelight. Santorini is another sun-bleached showstopper. The island was shaped by a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago and its two main towns of Fira and Oia cling to towering cliffs on the edge of the water-filled caldera, or crater. But there are quieter islands, too. On Patmos we scale the steep street to reach St John’s Monastery, the tranquil, castle-like building that dominates the landscape and is dedicated to the apostle who wrote the Bible’s Book of Revelation on the island. Back down in the port of Skala we visit Christodoulos Confectionery, a family-owned bakery and ice-cream shop that goes back generations, to buy one of the cheese pies unique to the island – we resist sampling it before finding somewhere to sit in the shady main square. Costing less than €2, the crumbly pie is a treat in every sense and any initial thoughts of saving the rest until later didn’t last longer than the second delicious mouthful. The cruise also calls at Kusadasi in Turkey where the highlight is a tour of the ancient Greek and latterly Roman city of Ephesus, again made memorable by an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide. Back on board, Celestyal Olympia is a lovely oldstyle ship with classic wraparound teak decks lined with steamer chairs. The vessel has undergone several guises and refurbishments since being launched in 1981 and has a really comfortable and laid-back vibe. In fact, it’s an CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
extension of the whole Greek experience and the country’s relaxed love of life. Crew members are incredibly friendly, mealtimes straddle several leisurely hours and the authentic cuisine showcases locally sourced food and wine. There’s a Greek band and a colourful and energetic stage show, featuring dancers, singers and acrobats, themed around mythology. The shop sells Greek products and souvenirs and the reasonably priced spa even includes a Mediterranean massage using olive oil. Narrowest street on Mykonos aside, I certainly squeezed a lot into this short but very sweet sailing.
GETTING THERE Celestyal Cruises’ three-night Iconic Aegean round-trip Athens cruise, including all meals and drinks, two excursions to Knossos and Ephesus and onboard gratuities, departing October 28, 2022, starts from £257 per person, excluding flights. For more information or to book, visit celestyal.com/gb
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UR RE O R Y CHU E D O OR E BR OW E N FR
2023 RIVER CRUISES Portugal’s River of Gold
10 days, 8 guided tours Departing April to November 2023
From £2,495pp
Lyon & Provence
8 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2023
From £1,845pp Rhine Getaway
8 days, 6 guided tours Departing March to November 2023
From £1,845pp
Grand European Tour
15 days, 12 guided tours Departing March to December 2023
From £3,195pp
Romantic Danube
VIKING INCLUSIVE VALUE
8 days, 6 guided tours Departing March to December 2023
From £1,945pp
Rhine & Moselle Discovery
Save £750pp and free drinks package* on 2023 Viking river journeys
8 days, 7 guided tours Departing April to November 2023
With the world’s largest fleet of innovative river ships – including our multi-award-winning Viking Longships – only Viking can promise you more. More comfort, more quality, more style and more choice of cruises across Europe and Asia. Relax in spacious, contemporary surroundings. Indulge in fabulous, destination-inspired food and thoughtfully selected wines. Explore the cultures and customs of the places you visit on expertly led tours. And discover a unique and exciting new view of the world.
From £1,845pp
From £1,895pp
Châteaux, Rivers & Wine
8 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2023
Elegant Elbe
10 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2023
From £2,345pp
Paris & the Heart of Normandy
8 days, 6 guided tours Departing March to November 2023
From £2,195pp
Tulips & Windmills
VIKING INCLUSIVE VALUE SO MUCH INCLUDED Return scheduled flights from London and a choice of up to 11 regional airports at no extra cost
Free Wi-Fi on board (connection speed may vary)
River-view stateroom
Free tea, coffee and snacks any time on board
All meals on board including wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner
All port charges, government taxes and overseas transfers
An included excursion in almost every port
Onboard gratuities
Call now on 020 8780 8701 or book online at viking.com Prices are correct at time of going to print but are subject to change. Prices above include £750pp discount. All offers can be withdrawn at any time. £750pp discount is not valid on Viking Mississippi journeys. Offers expire 31 December 2022. *Restrictions apply to drinks package, please call for details. From prices are based on the lowest priced departure dates within the month. Some departure dates within the same month may be at a higher cost. All departures are subject to availability. Single supplements 100%. These cruises are only available to guests who will have been fully vaccinated at least 14 days prior to departure. Some countries may require a negative COVID-19 test to enter. You must have travel insurance that includes COVID-19 cover. For the latest updates on our Health & Safety programme please visit Viking.com. The UK Government list of countries where travel is permitted to can change on a regular basis and at short notice, Viking cannot be held responsible if at any point before or during travel the advice changes which then requires guests to quarantine on their return. The Department of Transport and The Foreign and Commonwealth Office have also issued advice which applies to cruises. If UK Government regulations or guidance prohibit or further restrict travel either within the UK or abroad, then we may similarly have to cancel planned cruises, or amend itineraries or other conditions for travel at short or no notice. Please refer to paragraph H.1 [and B2] in our Booking Terms and Conditions on our website viking.com for further information as to our cancellation policies in these circumstances.
10 days, 8 guided tours Departing March to May 2023
From £2,845pp
Magnificent Mekong
17 days, 16 guided tours Departing January to December 2023
From £5,145pp
Pharaohs & Pyramids
12 days, 11 guided tours Departing August to December 2023
From £4,915pp
CRUISE DIRECTORS
LET ME
entertain YOU
PICTURE: SHUTTERSTOCK/SKREIDZELEU
While guests eat, explore and enjoy the onboard entertainment, cruise directors are har at wor s Kaye Holland
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CRUISE DIRECTORS Seabourn’s ‘Caviar in the Surf’ event
What attracted you to the cruise director role? One of my first jobs involved calling bingo and hosting karaoke. It was during this contract that I worked with my first cruise director and saw how he was able to play such a key role in the cruise – from hosting to singing and sending guests off on tours. I was sold.
ROSS ROBERTS
Cruise director, Seabourn 88
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How did you cope when landlocked during the pandemic? It was a challenging time. Working at sea
isn’t just a job, it’s a way of life. When that life is gone, you have to get creative. For me, this meant helping local charities within my community, releasing a Christmas album for charity and volunteering at a food bank. What is your proudest achievement to date? There are actually two that spring to mind. Seabourn has an exclusive partnership with theatre lyricist Sir Tim Rice, and we perform his show, An Evening with Tim Rice. On one voyage, he was on board and I was able to explain how Joseph had inspired my path. The other is when a guest gave me a very special gift. It was a sparkly black scarf her late husband had given her, telling her that no matter what happened to him, she should go on the cruise and wear it. She told me that she had never expected to laugh again after losing her husband, but that I had made her do so and brought joy to her life once more. If you could invite one person onto your ship, who would it be and why? Graham Norton. He is truly brilliant at what he does, both on screen and radio – and I think he would love Seabourn!
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PICTURE: JENNA TAPLIN-JENNA LYN PHOTOGRAPHY
T
ell us a bit about yourself, Ross. I’ve been working at sea for 17 years. As a child, I always wanted to be on stage – performing and making people smile – but it was after a trip to the London Palladium to see Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, aged eight, that I knew this was what I wanted to do. After lots of auditions, I landed my first seafaring job, which gave me the opportunity to not only have my own show, but also to be in charge of the team on board. At the age of 25 I was promoted to cruise director and the rest, as they say, is history.
CRUISE DIRECTORS
ERIC DE GRAY
Cruise director, Azamara
W
hat exactly does the role of cruise director at Azamara entail? Azamara is unique in the sense that cruise directors need to have experience of performing on Broadway or in the West End. We are responsible for the overall scheduling of the entertainment, in addition to hosting events and keeping everyone in holiday mood. Why did you choose Azamara? I love the destinations we visit: we get to take our guests to places that bigger ships simply can’t dock at. It’s also a joy to present AzAmazing Evenings [the brand’s signature evening events aimed at connecting passengers to the culture of a destination] in stunning local venues. What challenges have you had to overcome as a cruise director? Being six feet, six inches tall on a cruise
ship comes with its own challenges! But the biggest is coming to terms with the fact that I am never going to make everyone happy, despite my best intentions. Any memorable passengers? On one voyage, I had a 92-year-old woman ask to give a toast. She raised her glass and said: “May the rest of your years be the best years of your life, and may all your pains be champagne!” The whole table cheered and I asked for permission to take her toast with me on future cruises – 18 years later, I still do that toast at any Captain’s Welcome. What are the qualities that a good cruise director needs? To be able to work from the heart. I was once told that, as cruise director, I am ‘the heart of the ship’ and it stayed with me. I love doing what I do for the guests, but also for the crew who are, after all, separated from loved ones.
Eric’s role includes overseeing the the onboard entertainment
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CRUISE DIRECTORS
TÂNIA MIRÃO
Cruise director, Uniworld Boutique River Cruises
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ell us a little bit about yourself, Tânia. I’m a 38-year-old Portuguese woman who calls Porto home and has hospitality in her blood: I have been working aboard river cruises for the past 18 years. I have sailed the Douro River in my native Portugal, as well as the Danube, Rhine, Main, Moselle, Nile, Po, Seine, Saône and Rhône. Why did you choose Uniworld? It’s simple: Uniworld was known for being the best. I haven’t regretted my choice – after 14 years, I am still here. I like how Uniworld pays attention to the small things – we call them “tiny, noticeable touches”. In other words, thoughtful details that make a big difference to the guest experience.
What else goes on that passengers might never notice? Occasionally we come across a broken lock or high water on a river, and so have to work on ‘Plan B’ in the background while embracing ‘business as usual’ for guests. We will do everything in our power to keep calm and not show any signs of stress. Tell us about the qualities that a good cruise director needs. First and foremost: good people skills. To succeed, you must also be service-oriented, upbeat, flexible, possess the ability to be discreet (we often deal with confidential information) and calm under pressure.
PICTURES: TERRY VINE; TYSON MAYR; RICARDO GUEDES/LUMINOSIDADES; MYRIAM CASPER PHOTOGRAPHY/MASSIMO BASSANO; JOCELYN PRIDE
What do you love most about your job? When, at the end of a cruise, departing guests tell me they’ve had the trip of a lifetime –
there is no greater feeling. I also appreciate that, despite my job being intense, no two days are ever the same. I wake up in a different location on most days, and on every cruise I get to meet new people.
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CRUISE DIRECTORS Clockwise from main image: Greg Mortimer in Antarctica; Doris takes the plunge; penguin chick, Falkland Islands
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hat exactly does the role of cruise director at Aurora Expeditions involve, Ashley? As an expedition cruise line, we actually refer to our cruise directors as expedition leaders – at Aurora, we like to do things differently. I am tasked with leading the expedition, as well as managing the captain and crew. What do you love most about your job? It’s hard to single out just one aspect so I will answer with three. First, the daily challenges thrown at us by the weather, ice and other vessels operating in the area. Second, I love that I am constantly learning. Third, I love the teamwork involved. Any memorable passengers that stand out in your mind? This season, we welcomed a 92-year-old American lady called Doris, who had travelled to Santiago on her own. By day two, the other passengers had adopted Doris and were helping her with her waterproofs, and on and off the Zodiacs. On day three, Doris asked if she could do the polar plunge and, after answering some medical questions,
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there was no reason why not. So she plunged into the waters, cheered on by the entire ship chanting: “Doris, Doris, Doris!” Tell us about your proudest achievement to date. Planning and leading the only large vessel expedition to Antarctica in the middle of the pandemic to help Dr Tom Hart – who runs the Penguin Watch project at Oxford University – collect data to help stop penguin populations from declining. Which are your favourite ports of call, and why? I have two. First, the Falkland Islands. My husband was an engineering officer on the QE2 during the Falklands War and always wanted to return, so we did. The islands have fantastic wildlife, scenery and people. Second, South Georgia Island, where I lived for a spell – an experience few get. It is such a special place that I returned there in 2017 for my wedding. Read more behind-the-scenes interviews and insight at cruise-international.com
ASHLEY PERRIN
Expedition leader, Aurora Expeditions J U LY/AUGUST 2022 |
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Wild
WEEKENDS Award-winning chef, restaurateur and TV regular Angela Hartnett’s third book, The Weekend Cook, celebrates summer with a feast of fresh flavours
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RECIPES
ASPAR AGUS QUICHE SERVES 6 - 8 Some people think you are allowed to put anything you want on a quiche, but I’m not so sure. It is actually quite hard to make a good quiche and one of the best I’ve ever eaten was made from a Simon Hopkinson recipe – it was just onions, onions and more onions, plus cream and cheese. Use this egg-to-cream ratio and you have the perfect quiche base upon which to carefully build other flavours without going crazy. INGREDIENTS For the pastry: 170g plain flour, plus extra for dusting pinch of salt 50g lard 50g unsalted butter 1 egg yolk 2 tbsp iced water For the filling: 2 bunches of asparagus (approximately 800g) or purple
sprouting broccoli (200g) 15g salted butter 1 banana shallot 1 garlic clove 3 egg yolks 1 egg 200ml double cream 200g cheddar cheese, grated sea salt freshly ground black pepper crisp green salad, to serve (optional)
METHOD
First, make the pastry. Sift the flour into a large bowl and add the pinch of salt. Add the lard and butter and rub them in with your fingertips, until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Mix the egg yolk with the water and lightly whisk, then add to the flour mix and use the back of a knife to combine, then use your hands to bring the mixture together to a firm dough. l Tip out the dough onto a lightly floured board or work surface and knead it gently. Cover or wrap it in cling film and transfer it to the fridge to rest for at least 20 minutes. l While the pastry rests, prepare the vegetables for the filling. If you’re using asparagus, snap off the woody stems (feel along the stem until it bends) and blanch them in boiling salted water for about two minutes (depending upon the thickness of the asparagus), until just cooked. Drain well. If you’re using broccoli,
PICTURES: JOHN CAREY; JONATHAN LOVEKIN
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Tip
You could use broccoli if asparagus isn’t in season. You can also vary the cheese but it must be a firm variety trim the stems and blanch them in salted boiling water for two minutes, until just cooked, then drain well. l Heat the oven to 200C (fan 180C, gas 6). Roll out the rested dough on a lightly floured board or work surface to a 25cm disc about the thickness of a £1 coin (about 3mm). Carefully use the pastry disc to line a 20cm, loose-bottomed fluted tart tin, pushing the pastry into the edges and grooves. Trim the excess to neaten. Chill the tart case in the fridge for 20 minutes. l Prick the base of the chilled tart case all over with a fork, then line it with scrunched-up baking paper and pour in some baking beans (or use dried beans or uncooked rice, if you don’t have baking beans – you can reuse the beans, but don’t eat them!). l Blind bake the pastry case for 20 minutes until lightly golden, then remove the paper and beans and return the case to the oven for a further five minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly in the tin. Turn the oven down to 180C (fan 160C, gas 4). l While the tart case is cooling a little, make the filling. In a pan, add the butter and cook the shallot and garlic for about 10 minutes, until soft but not coloured. Transfer to a bowl and leave to cool, then add the egg yolks, egg, cream and cheese to the bowl. Give it all a good mix to break up the eggs and combine the ingredients, then season with salt and pepper. l Line the base of the pastry case with the broccoli or asparagus, then pour in the egg and cheese mixture. Bake the quiche for 25 minutes, until the filling is set to the touch and golden brown. Allow to cool slightly, then remove it from the tin to serve. I like to serve it slightly warm, with a crisp green salad on the side.
SEABASS, OR ANGE AND FENNEL CRUDO SERVES 6 (AS A STARTER)
This is a beautifully clean recipe – the freshest of fish, a bit of spicing and the acidic fruit to cure. If you don’t have orange to hand, lime or lemon will do – you just need the acidity of the citrus to work its magic. If you cannot get hold of bass, use seabream or monkfish. The key to this dish is to slice the fish nice and thin. INGREDIENTS 500g skinless seabass fillet 1/2 tsp pink peppercorns, lightly crushed 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 blood oranges, segmented with
any juice reserved 100g fennel, thinly sliced using a mandolin a handful of your choice of herbs, leaves picked (I like to use dill or basil) sea salt
METHOD
Using a sharp knife, slice the seabass down the centre, then across at an angle so that it looks like sashimi. l Place the seabass pieces on a serving dish, season with the pink peppercorns and some sea salt and cover with the olive oil and orange juice. l Top with the orange segments, sliced fennel and the dill and serve immediately. 8 l
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RECIPES
Tip
BARBECUED RIB-EYE STEAK WITH TOMATO SAL AD
You could also use sirloin or rump, or a T-bone steak if you would like a thinner slice
SERVES 12
This is a dish I’ve used at all our street parties. It’s an easy barbecue recipe and an all-time favourite. You just need rocket, watercress and a very good steak. If there’s ever a choice, then rib-eye is my favourite cut of steak, partly because of the ratio of fat to meat. I love it so much I had it at my wedding. I’m not a chef who wants my steak rare or bloody – medium or medium rare is perfect for me and rib-eye can be cooked like that without it turning out tough, and I think it’s just delicious. I love the flavour that the bone gives to the meat. INGREDIENTS 4 rib-eye steaks (about 800-900g each), bone in, if possible, at room temperature vegetable oil, for rubbing a handful of watercress and rocket salad, to serve sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the tomato salad: 2 tsp Dijon mustard 100ml extra-virgin olive oil 25ml red wine vinegar 1 garlic clove, peeled 4 oxheart or beef tomatoes, sliced 1 red onion, sliced a handful of basil, leaves picked
METHOD
Prepare your barbecue so that it’s at the right temperature to cook, but not burn, the meat. When the coals are white, they are hot enough to use. l Gently rub the steaks with a touch of vegetable oil, then season with salt and pepper and chargrill for at least 15 minutes, turning them over and moving them around the grill as needed, until evenly coloured but not burnt. l Move the steaks to one side, away from the fiercest heat, so that they do not scorch. Using a skewer or very thin-bladed knife, pierce the steaks and touch the blade to your lips – if it’s hot the steaks are done. Transfer them to a plate and leave them to rest for 15 minutes, covered loosely with foil. l Meanwhile, make the tomato salad. Mix l
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the mustard with the olive oil and vinegar. Then, using a microplane, slice the garlic very finely. Add it to the mustard, oil and vinegar and stir to combine to a dressing. l Mix the tomatoes with the red onion in a bowl, season with salt and pepper, then pour the dressing over the top. Set aside to marinate, until you’re ready to serve. l Once the steaks have rested, it’s time to carve them. Remove the meat from the bone (if necessary), and slice against the grain to give about 2cm-thick slices. Divide the tomato salad equally between serving plates and scatter over the basil leaves. Place the sliced steak on top of the tomatoes and garnish with some watercress and rocket. l Alternatively, serve the sliced steak and the salad on a large serving platter and allow everyone to help themselves.
The Weekend Cook is Angela Hartnett’s first cookbook in 10 years, offering a relaxed guide to hosting everything from intimate suppers to family barbecues. Angela is a regular on UK television, with appearances on Great British Menu, MasterChef, Saturday Kitchen and the BBC’s Best Home Cook. She was awarded an OBE in 2022 for services to hospitality and the NHS during the pandemic. The Weekend Cook, published by Bloomsbury Absolute with photography by Jonathan Lovekin, is in shops now priced at £26.
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ADVICE
ASK THE EXPERTS
Got a question about your next cruise holiday? Get an answer from our expert panel by emailing info@cruise-international.com
I have a Greek isles cruise booked in September but will airports be back to normal by then, or should I change my flights to travel out a couple of days before the cruise? Dave Mills, vice-president global supply, Iglu Cruise It’s difficult to predict what the flight situation will be. It’s not peak season and the airports and airlines will have had a few more months to recruit additional staff, so in theory it should be much improved. That said, if you have booked your cruise and your flight independently and if you think the airport situation could make you anxious and spoil the run-up to your holiday, you could amend your flight and extend your trip by a day. If you’ve booked a cruise line flight-inclusive package, the cruise line is responsible for your travel arrangements. But if you have booked through a specialist cruise agent or travel agent, it’s best to contact them for advice.
We’ve always wanted to go to Antarctica, but we’re also making efforts to be more mindful of the environment, so it’s a dilemma. We’ve looked at carbon-offsetting the flights, but how can we make sure the cruise doesn’t have a negative impact – or should we just accept that we can’t go? John McKeon, president and chief executive, Polar Latitudes This is a great question that is important for everyone working in Antarctic travel. After many years in this great white wilderness, I have to say one of the best reasons to visit is that Antarctica needs human advocates to stand up for it and campaign for its protection. Tourism has a huge role to play as visitors come away awed and changed by their experience. 96
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We pioneered citizen science programmes, through which guests can give back by taking part in real-life climate science. They capture data on behalf of academic studies and contribute to our collective understanding of Antarctica, alongside Nasa and various oceanographic institutions. So consider taking a trip that contributes to science and look for operators who are members of the new Polar Science Collective. Antarctica is a fragile environment but seeing its beauty and vulnerability is a powerful lesson in what we all stand to lose if we don’t address climate change. CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
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My wife and I sailed with a new cruise line recently, but it was so high-tech we felt overwhelmed. We are in our 70s and don’t have smartphones with the required apps, so it was frustrating. Which lines still adopt a more traditional approach, as that suits us better? Julie Peasgood, TV presenter and Cruise International contributor
It’s true that many cruise lines are developing their onboard technology because controlling everything from one device – whether it’s check-in, pre-booking excursions, menu choices or even cabin lighting – can make life easier. However, if that’s not for you I would in general recommend smaller ships rather than mega-vessels. Check out river cruises such as Titan Travel, Saga and Emerald Cruises. Saga’s two ocean-going ships also operate in a more traditional way, along with Fred Olsen, Marella Cruises, Holland America Line, P&O Cruises and the UK’s newest cruise line, Ambassador.
I enjoyed reading about rail holidays in your last issue – I’ve always wanted to see Italy by train but never thought of combining it with a cruise. The Orient Express is too expensive, so what else can you recommend?
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Anna Davies, marketing manager, Railbookers
Exploring Italy by train is a popular choice for many of our customers – from the canals of Venice and the monuments of Rome to the gorgeous coastlines of Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast. A firm favourite is the Grand Venice, Florence and Rome holiday where you’ll enjoy time in these three iconic Italian cities on one scenic holiday along the rails, travelling from the UK via the spectacular Swiss Alps. Explore the cities to their fullest with sightseeing tours and skip-the-line passes, which can be included with travel in first class throughout the trip. Then, after your stay in Rome, it’s an easy transfer to Civitavecchia for your cruise to begin! CRU ISE -I N T ER NAT IONA L .COM
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C E L E B R I T Y T R AV E L S
Sarah Brightman The classical singer and ship godmother is performing a one-night-only concert on Seabourn Encore
The first cruise I went on was from Singapore and around Vietnam, and once I got into the rhythm of it, I didn’t want to get off – it was so lovely. It’s the perfect way to spend a holiday because you can go on a crazy trip somewhere, then come back and spend a pleasant evening, whether it’s enjoying the food, getting room service or sitting on your balcony. You can relax and everything is done for you – then go to the gym when you’re feeling guilty!
diversity of the islands. One minute you’re in Tokyo, the next minute you’re driving past a paddy field. You can go north and see completely different people, then go all the way to the south where these beautiful islands are like the tropics.
Cruise entertainment has totally changed. Nowadays, people who go on ships are getting state-of-the-art theatres, wonderful cinemas, great shopping – and of course it’s duty-free! There are many more artists who want to entertain people on cruises. It’s more intimate and everyone’s in a good mood because they’re on holiday, so you’re part of their enjoyment.
I try to vary my concerts, always adding new songs. I like to perform a couple from Phantom, and Time to Say Goodbye as that’s always nice. It’s the first time 98
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I’ve done this so it will be bespoke for the audience on this ship. I have a lovely tenor, Jay Dref, coming on board to sing a couple of duets with me and some wonderful musicians as well, then we have a Q&A afterwards. Normally I’m on big stage sets so it will be a much more personal performance, and it’s even more special for me because I’m the godmother of the ship.
Clockwise from above left: Sarah christens Seabourn Encore; on stage; Tokyo skyline at sunset; The Colonnade
I’m dying to go on an Antarctica cruise; I have friends who have done it so that’s next on my list. It is a true adventure. And I’m excited to go back to Tokyo – Japan is almost like a second home for me and I haven’t been able to go there for a long time, so I can’t wait! I love the country, the culture and the
The places where I have the nicest travel memories are with family. I love to be in Italy, especially Portofino, or the south of France. The first place my parents took me was Ibiza in 1967 or 1968 – San Antonio was a beautiful little fishing village and it was all very simple. Then about nine years ago I went back to Ibiza and couldn’t recognise anything. It was completely different, but in an amazing way because I had a great time going to the clubs and restaurants. I went to Dubrovnik for the first time when I was only eight or nine years old, when it had just opened for tourism. The city was so charming because there weren’t many tourists. It was simple, beautiful and totally untouched. Sarah Brightman is appearing on Seabourn Encore for An Evening of Music and Conversation during a seven-day Aegean & Turkish Treasures cruise, sailing round-trip from Athens on August 14. Fares start at £3,799 per person in a Veranda Suite, including flights (seabourn.com). For more celebrity interviews, go to cruiseinternational.com
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PICTURES: ALAN LIM; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/F11PHOTO; ERIC LAIGNEL
It was a real honour to be chosen as godmother of Seabourn Encore, I loved it. I went to Singapore for the maiden voyage and the smash of the champagne bottle. Unfortunately on the way, my luggage got lost so there was a scramble to find a gown I could wear. I scoured the boutiques and we found different parts of the city we would never have seen otherwise. That’s the joy of travel: you never know what’s going to happen from day to day. It truly is an adventure.
Lindos, Rhodes, Greece
Explore the beauty of Europe with us later this year at a more relaxed pace and receive a Complimentary Single Category Upgrade* on select 2022 and 2023 voyages. That means you can enjoy an Oceanview Stateroom for the price of an Interior Stateroom or a Balcony Stateroom for the price of an Oceanview Stateroom! With Azamara®, you can spend more time exploring your destination, by day and night. Watch the sunset from the medieval town of Lindos, just a short drive from ancient Rhodes. Savour paella where it originated, with generations of locals in Valencia, or experience Barcelona’s architecture, museums, and restaurants on an exciting overnight stay. Get to know the world around you with Azamara®. You’ll always enjoy inclusive amenities featuring included gratuities, exclusive cultural events, select beverages, and more. In addition, our Cruise with Confidence programme† has been extended, giving you the flexibility to change your voyage up to 48 hours before you sail on all 2022 voyages.
BOOK BY 31ST AUGUST 2022 AND SAVE.* CALL: 0344 493 4016** VISIT: AZAMARA.CO.UK/CATUPGRADE CONTACT: YOUR TRAVEL AGENT Change The Way You Sea
*Single Category Upgrade applicable on specified dates only. Offer available on selected 2022 & 2023 voyages. See our website for full Terms & Conditions. †Visit Azamara.com/Cruise-With-Confidence for full details. **Calls cost the same as calls to geographic numbers (01 or 02) and are included in your landline or mobile free call package. ©2022 Azamara. Ships registered in Malta. ‘Change The Way You Sea’ is an international service mark of SP Cruises OpCo Limited.
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