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EDITOR'S LETTER Hang out the bunting! There’s celebration in the air this issue as the Queen becomes the first British monarch to reign for 70 years. In this Platinum Jubilee special we look back at her magnificent reign through seven iconic portraits (The Queen through the decades, p25); we speak to the Queen’s hatter about the excitement of a royal commission (Last Word, p82); and we cherry-pick the best of the royal exhibitions, events and Jubilee teas (The Bulletin, p9). One of England’s finest stately homes, Blenheim Palace, is celebrating a big anniversary of its own this summer (The first Churchill, p35); while Seaton Delaval Hall, once home to a Georgian family known for their parties and practical jokes, is being restored to its former glory (The drama of the Delavals, p44). And as ever, we visit some of Britain’s loveliest regions, including one of my favourites: Exmoor (Lyrical landscapes, p14). This wildly beautiful patchwork of moorland, dramatic coast and timeless villages inspired some of our best-loved poets, and can’t fail to have the same effect on fellow romantics today.

Porlock Bay, Exmoor

CONTENTS

VOLUME 90 ISSUE 3

FEATURES Natasha Foges, Editor

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BRITAIN A slice of Devon Sample Exmoor’s cream teas & romantic views

Historic Lancashire

THE DRAMA OF THE DELAVALS

SIMPLY CAPITAL

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HERO OF BLENHEIM

Remarkable life of the first Churchill

PARTIES & PRANKS

Wild escapades in the 18th century

The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee The nation celebrates her 70-year reign

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Cover image: Thatched cottages in Exmoor © Joana Kruse/Alamy

This year, Her Majesty The Queen celebrates her Platinum Jubilee. We look back at her reign through seven iconic portraits

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THE QUEEN THROUGH THE DECADES

THE FIRST CHURCHILL

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HISTORY HERITAGE TRAVEL CULTURE

The poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge was just one of many writers to be awed by Exmoor’s rolling hills, timeless villages and dramatic coastline

FIND YOUR

LYRICAL LANDSCAPES

The 1st Duke of Marlborough rose from a youth of genteel poverty to become Britain’s greatest soldier and statesman Go behind the scenes at Seaton Delaval Hall , once the home of a scandalous Georgian family who were known for their parties and pranks Discover the rich history of the towns that once served as Britain’s ancient capitals

FEATURES 59 65

REGULARS 6

LETTERS

THE BULLETIN

COMPETITION

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ISLANDS IN THE STREAM The small islands, called ‘eyots’ or ‘aits’, dotted along the River Thames in London have fascinating stories to tell of their former lives

SHAFTESBURY At the heart of Dorset, Shaftesbury is one of England’s most beautiful market towns

REDISCOVERING THE RED ROSE COUNTY Historic Lancashire was central to the Wars of the Roses, a hub of the Industrial Revolution and the location for a notorious witch trial

BRITAIN is the official magazine of VisitBritain, the national tourism agency. BRITAIN is published by The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ Tel: 020 7349 3700 Email: info@britain-magazine.com Editorial Editor Natasha Foges Art Editor Rhian Colley Assistant Editor Henrietta Easton Advertising Group Sales Director Catherine Chapman Head of Sales Operations Jodie Green Sales Executive Melissa Arancio Publishing Chairman Paul Dobson Managing Director James Dobson Publisher Simon Temlett Chief Financial Officer Vicki Gavin EA to Chairman Sophie Easton Subs Marketing Executive Bret Weekes For VisitBritain Sarah Wagner Printed in England by William Gibbons Ltd Production All Points Media

Share your stories and memories of Britain SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES USA and Canada: www.britsubs.com/britain Tel: 1-888-321-6378 (toll free) Email: btncustserv@cdsfulfillment.com Post: BRITAIN, PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518 (USA only); OR BRITAIN, 1415 Janette Avenue, Windsor, Ontario N8X 1Z1 (Canada only) UK and Rest of World: www.subscription.co.uk/chelsea/help Tel: +44 (0) 1858 438 878 Email: britain@subscription.co.uk Post: BRITAIN, CDS Global, Sovereign Park, Market Harborough, LE16 9EF, UK Did you know you can manage your subscription online? Oversee your print and digital subscriptions online today simply by signing up at https://www. subscription.co.uk/chelsea/solo/. Stay up to date with the latest issues, update your personal details, and even renew your subscription with just a click.

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Annual subscription rates (6 issues) UK – £35; Europe – £45 USA and Canada – US $75 Australia – AUD $105 Rest of World – £55 www.britain-magazine/subscribe Back issues www.chelseamagazines.com/shop News distribution USA and Canada: NPS Media Group, 2 Enterprise Drive, Suite 420, Shelton, CT 06484. UK and Rest of World: Seymour, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT, UK Tel: +44 (0)20 7429 4000

IN THIS ISSUE SCOTLAND

SCONE p52

SEATON DELAVAL p44 NORTHERN IRELAND

LANCASTER p68 EIRE ENGLAND

HEREFORD p77 EXMOOR p14

4 BRITAIN

WA L E S

BLENHEIM PALACE p35

BRITAIN (ISSN 1757-9732) (USPS 004-335) is published bi-monthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK Distributed in the US by NPS Media Group, 2 Enterprise Drive, Suite 420, Shelton, CT 06484. Periodicals postage paid at Shelton, CT and other mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BRITAIN, PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518 Publications Mail Agreement Number 41599077, 1415 Janette Ave, Windsor, ON N8X 1Z1. Canadian GST Registered Number 834045627 RT0001 © The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd., 2022. All rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers The information contained in BRITAIN has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by contributors to BRITAIN are not necessarily those of the publisher or VisitBritain.

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YOUR LETTERS

Write to us with your thoughts on the magazine and memories of Britain

My love of London/Britain began about 86 years ago when my older sisters would read to me, and one of A.A. Milne’s books was a favorite – about Christopher Robin “going to the Palace”. Then, newspaper and radio accounts of the new King George VI and his family held my attention for many years. In 1978, our uncle remembered his nieces and nephews in his will, and two sisters and I signed with a tour group from a local college for a ten-day tour of London! We covered many miles and saw the wonderful places and things that I had dreamed of

for a long time. We had one free day; one sister had an old guidebook describing the Queen’s Guest Book and as we strolled down Park Lane toward Buckingham Palace, she suggested we try it. And much to my amazement, we did get to do it! From 1978-1999, one sister and I would save our money for other trips and visit Jeremy Bentham, see the Keys ceremony at the Tower and find other grand experiences to remember the rest of our days. These days as I look at journals and pictures, I rely on BRITAIN to make more journeys, and I thank you for this. Dorothy M. Weathersby, Terry, Mississippi, USA Our star letter wins a copy of The Queen: 70 Glorious Years, the official souvenir album of the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee (£19.95). www.royalcollectionshop.co.uk

TRAIN TAKES THE STRAIN Thank you so much for the issue [Vol 90 Issue 1] that highlighted rail journeys in Britain. While we are not averse to driving through the country, the experience and sightseeing on a train is an e njoyable convenience. We save all the issues of BRITAIN magazine, but your suggested itineraries in this particular issue makes for more dog-eared pages than usual. We’ve been to the railroad museum in York – what a treasure! Put that front-and-center while on a visit to that part of the country. Jan Owens, Mount Pleasant, Wisconsin, USA

WRITE TO US! By post: Letters, BRITAIN, The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London, SW3 3TQ Via email: editor@britain-magazine.com FOLLOW US! Twitter: @BritainMagazine Instagram: @britain_magazine Facebook: www.facebook.com/BritainMagazine Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/britainmagazine

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Big Ben strikes again It was absolutely wonderful to see Big Ben’s face when I was there 10 days ago! Even if mine was covered by a mask 99.9% of the time, it was worth seeing Westminster Abbey and parliament again! Leah Merryweather, via Facebook BRITAIN replies: Look out for a special feature on Big Ben next issue!

MAGICAL YORK On a snowy day in Canada I have very much enjoyed being taken back to many visits to the UK as I read the latest issue [Vol 90 Issue 1]. In particular, ‘Top 10 York’ struck many chords for me as I have visited this lovely city and area numerous times over the years with various friends and family. I was delighted to count that I have taken in eight of your top ten places to visit and look forward to being able to add the National Railway Museum and the Merchant Adventurer’s Hall on my next visit. From exploring the streets and shops in the Shambles to arriving in time for Evensong in the Minster, taking in all the sights by walking along the walls, learning about the Vikings at the Yorvik Centre, exploring Castle Howard and all things Brideshead, touring Fairfax House and exploring the Castle Museum and its history of chocolate, I have many fond memories of my time spent in York. I can still smell the aroma of chocolate from a cruise on the river and I went on my first ever ghost tour starting at a pub by the river. However, the memories that stand out the most are the visits to Betty’s. Not only is the food delicious, here and in Harrogate, my mother’s name was Betty so the cafe has a special place in my heart. Denise Bridge, London, Ontario, Canada www.britain-magazine.com

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HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION

The

BULLETIN From parades and special exhibitions to a royally good cake, here’s everything you need to celebrate the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee

GARDENS

Blooming lovely Summer 2022 will be a beautiful one at the Tower of London, as 20 million seeds planted in the famous moat will burst into flower in an incredible new display: ‘Superbloom’. Planted in honour of the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, the sea of scented flowers will constantly evolve from June to September,

changing colours and patterns and creating a biodiverse space to support wildlife. The initiative is part of a project to transform the moat into a new natural landscape in the heart of the city, supporting nature as well as our own wellbeing: a permanent Jubilee legacy. www.hrp.org.uk

HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION

EVENTS

The big weekend

SHOPPING

Jubilee souvenirs There are plenty of Jubilee souvenirs on offer for you to commemorate this summer’s royal events. Tuck into some treats from Biscuiteers, whose new Buckingham Palace collection of biscuits are hand-iced with royal-inspired designs, including crowns, corgis, gilded carriages, and even a biscuitportrait of Her Majesty herself. Meanwhile, the Royal Collection Trust are toasting the Jubilee with a special Platinum Jubilee English sparkling wine. For a souvenir that lasts longer than fizz and biscuits, how about a Jubilee coin? The Royal Mint has struck every coin of the Queen’s reign, and they’re marking the Jubilee with a special £5 coin. www.biscuiteers.com; www.rct.uk; royalmint.com

This Platinum Jubilee year, events will culminate in a four-day bank holiday weekend (2-5 June), and there’s a lot to look forward to. Celebrations will commence with the Queen’s traditional birthday parade, Trooping the Colour, on 2 June, featuring 1400 parading soldiers, 200 horses, 400 musicians and members of the Royal Family on horseback and in carriages. On the same day, 1500 Jubilee beacons will be lit, while on 5 June, a colourful pageant will parade through the capital. www.royal.uk/platinumjubilee

EXHIBITIONS

A remarkable reign

H E R I TAG E

Stamp of approval Ever since postage stamps were introduced in Britain they have been synonymous with the monarchy: the first ever stamp, the Penny Black in 1840, showed a profile of the young Queen Victoria. This year, to mark the first time in history that an English monarch has celebrated a Platinum Jubilee, the Royal Mail have released eight new stamps. Each captures a different part of Her Majesty’s work as Queen – from Trooping the Colour to visits across the Commonwealth – and celebrates her dedication to service over an extraordinary 70 years. The Queen, herself an avid collector of stamps, will surely be adding these to her collection. www.royalmail.com/platinumjubilee

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HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/RICHARD LEA-HAIR/CHRIS FAIRWEATHER/HUEW EVANS PICTURE AGENCY LTD/IWM (TR 2835), PRINCESS ELIZABETH, A 2ND SUBALTERN IN THE AUXILIARY TERRITORIAL SERVICE/BEN CARPENTER

Dedicated exhibitions will be taking place across the land. As the Queen’s main residence, it’s fitting that Windsor Castle will host a special exhibition commemorating her Coronation (7 July to 26 September). Visitors will be able to admire her Coronation Dress, designed by Norman Hartnell and made of richly embroidered white duchesse satin. The Imperial War Museums, meanwhile, are marking the occasion with a photography exhibition exploring how the Queen’s life has been touched by war and conflict, including this image of the young Princess serving in the Auxiliary Territorial Service in 1945. www.rct.uk; www.iwm.org.uk www.britain-magazine.com

AFTERNOON TEA

Royal teas Set between the two buildings of the Old Royal Naval College in Greenwich, London, the Queen’s House was England's first The only hotel with a Royal Warrant, The Goring are celebrating classical building, built in the 17th-century by architect Inigo the milestone with a special Jubilee-themed afternoon tea. Dishes Jones for Anne of Denmark, as a gift from her husband, James I. include traditional treats such as coronation chicken and royal Four hundred years later, the splendid royal villa is due to fruit cake, and Jubilee-themed cocktails have been created for the reopen on 11 October following extensive renovations, which occasion. Meanwhile, the Platinum Jubilee Afternoon Tea at the have seen an overhaul to the galleries housing its famous Taj 51 Buckingham Gate will send you on a delicious journey

collection of art – including key works by Gainsborough and Hogarth – and original features, such as the Tulip Staircase. through Her Majesty’s 70-year reign. On the menu are delicacies If that’s not reason enough to visit, it is likely to be the home such as Bombe Glacé Princess Elizabeth, which was served at the of the historic Armada portrait of Queen Elizabeth I (pictured wedding of the young Princess and Philip Mountbatten in 1947, above), one of the most iconic images of any British monarch. and Peaches à la Reine Alexandra, a frangipane, peach and apple The painting has been the subject of intensive fundraising tart that’s a favourite at royal banquets. to save it for the nation since it was put up for sale. With the www.thegoring.com; taj51buckinghamgate.co.uk

HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION

READING CORNER Take inspiration for your British adventures from these great reads Harry of England: The History of Eight Kings from Henry I to Henry VIII by Teresa Cole (£20, Amberley Publishing). A fascinating glimpse into the lives of eight kings united by a name.

RECIPE

Almond Cake Every recipe in Tea at the Palace: 50 Delicious Recipes for Afternoon Tea (White Lion Publishing, £14.99) has its own royal inspiration. Written by Carolyn Robb, former chef to the Prince and Princess of Wales, this new book is the tastiest way to pay tribute to Her Majesty.

I n g re d i e n t s : 150g butter, at room temp, plus more for the tin

180g caster sugar, plus more for dusting

180g whole blanched almonds

4 free-range eggs, separated

60g fine polenta

200g whole-milk ricotta cheese

Finely grated zest of 4 lemons, plus extra to serve

Juice of 2 lemons

Method: Preheat the oven to 150°C (Gas mark 2). Butter the sides of a 23-cm round springform tin and line the bottom with nonstick baking paper. In a food processor, pulse the almonds until finely ground. Add the polenta and lemon zest and process briefly to mix. In a medium bowl, using an electric mixer, beat together the butter and sugar on medium speed until pale and fluffy. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each. Stir in the almond mixture. In a small bowl, stir together the ricotta and lemon juice, then add to the almond-butter mixture and stir until blended. In another medium bowl, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form. Using a rubber spatula, fold the egg whites into the almond-butter mixture just until evenly distributed and no white streaks remain. Spoon into the tin and smooth the top with an offset spatula. Bake for 40–50 minutes until a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tin on a wire rack for 20 minutes, then unclasp, lift off the sides and, working carefully, gently transfer the cake, still on the tin bottom, to the rack to cool. Once completely cool, invert it, lift off the base and parchment and then turn it upright on a plate. Dust with sugar and sprinkle with some grated lemon zest before serving.

BRITAIN

A 1930s Childhood: From Conker Fights to Coal Fires by Colin G. Maggs (£9.99, The History Press). Memories of growing up in the 1930s in Britain, from home life, games and food to history-changing events. The Castle: A History by John Goodall (£16.99, Yale Books). A thrilling history of the castle in Britain, from the middle ages to the present day, drawing on poems, letters and novels. Shadowlands: A Journey through Lost Britain by Matthew Green (£20, Faber). The historian explores places across Britain that have been lost to war, plagues, natural phenomena and economic shifts. Magical Britain by Rob Wildwood (£18.99, Wild Things Publishing). An absorbing and fascinating roll-call of 650 enchanted and mystical sites across Britain.

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IMAGE: JOHN KERNICK

Ricotta, ground almonds, lemon and polenta give this cake a soft texture and zesty flavour

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Lyrical

Landscapes Born 250 years ago, the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge was one of many writers to be awed and inspired by the wild beauty of Exmoor, and fellow romantics will be too WORDS NATASHA FOGES

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BRITAIN

Previous page: Medieval Dunster Castle sits amid the rolling hills of Exmoor Opposite: The castle looms above the pretty medieval village of Dunster Below: Coleridge Cottage in the village of Nether Stowey

BRITAIN

he national park of Exmoor, which carpets 267 square miles of Devon and Somerset, is a microcosm of England’s most iconic landscapes: heather-clad moors; undulating green hills dotted with sheep; tumbling rivers in deep wooded valleys; and dramatic cliffs plunging to the shoreline. It’s thrilling to travel between these varied terrains via the winding lanes that criss-cross Exmoor, which reveal stunning views at every turn. And it’s not all about the landscape: enfolded within the hills are historic towns and villages with houses hewn out of the local stone, and centuries of traditions and stories to discover. Many visitors’ first stop is the medieval village of

Dunster, pretty as a picture with its cobbled streets, thatched cottages and fairytale castle perched high on the hill above. This Saxon castle was the home of the aristocratic Luttrell family from 1376, who transformed it into a lavish country home in the Victorian era. Dotted with family mementos, the castle has a warm, lived-in feel that gives you the lingering sense that the Luttrells have only just left the room. Among many treasures, the jewel of the collection is a set of rare 17th-century leather wall hangings telling the love story of Antony and Cleopatra. Exmoor’s wild beauty has drawn many romantic souls here over the years, most famously the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge (1772-1834), who was born 250 years ago this year. Coleridge was fond of walking from his cottage in Nether Stowey across the moors to the sea, often accompanied by his friend and fellow poet, William Wordsworth. The Romantic poetry movement, rooted in reverence for the natural world and the notion that nature can set the imagination free, was born on these long countryside strolls. The Coleridge Way allows modern-day romantics to follow in the poet’s footsteps. Signposts marked with a quill lead the way to the bustling village of Porlock and, further down, Porlock Weir, an ancient port that’s now a quaint hamlet, sheltered beneath towering cliffs. You can walk from here along the coast path to the hamlet of Culbone, where England’s smallest church has a ‘leper window’, created for a 16th-century leper colony to peer in during services. In 1797, after walking to Culbone, Coleridge stayed in a nearby farmhouse where he fell into an opium-induced trance that inspired his strange, hallucinatory poem www.britain-magazine.com

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DEVON & SOMERSET Kubla Khan. The arrival of a visitor from Porlock shattered his reverie and caused him to leave the poem unfinished, hence the phrase ‘a person from Porlock’ to mean the unwelcome interruption of one’s creative flow. On the path to Culbone, two tunnels are all that remains of Ashley Combe House, the summer retreat of Ada Lovelace, daughter of another Romantic poet, Lord Byron. Obsessed with mathematics rather than poetry – her father called her his ‘Princess of Parallelograms’ – she is now considered the world’s first computer programmer. The grand house, demolished in the 1970s, had an Italian-style terraced garden with tunnels built into the cliff so that tradesmen could approach the house without spoiling the view. Another writer inspired by Exmoor’s wildly romantic landscapes was RD Blackmore (1825-1900). One of the most famous novelists of his generation, Blackmore set Lorna Doone in the mystical Badgeworthy Valley. His tale of nobles turned outlaws was based on stories of the Dounes, a family of brigands that once roamed these hills. Visitors to Lorna Doone Country, as it’s now known, can peek into 15th-century Oare Church, scene of the novel’s climactic wedding-day shooting, and seek out the Lorna Doone Farm in the picture-postcard village of Malmsmead, with its ancient bridge and ford.

If you’re lucky, you’ll spot Exmoor’s oldest inhabitants: a herd of wild ponies that have grazed here for thousands of years For a change of pace, it’s a short journey (though something of a rollercoaster ride) to Lynton and Lynmouth on the coast. The dramatic, almost alpine feel of these twin towns was beloved of the Victorians, who nicknamed them ‘Little Switzerland’. The poet Shelley honeymooned here with his teenage bride Harriet, but they were forced to leave town when the local authorities found that Shelley had been spreading his revolutionary political ideas by launching pamphlets in corked bottles into the sea. A corniche road twists and turns round a series of hairpin bends to reach the pretty lower town, Lynmouth. Today it’s a cheerful fisherman’s village, with salty pubs and cafés selling hot pasties, but an exhibition in the Memorial Hall remembers its darkest hour: in 1952, the West and East Lyn rivers burst their banks, toppling houses and shops throughout the town, and 34 people lost their lives.

PHOTOS: © STUART BL ACK /AL AMY/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/MARK JOHNSON

Left to right: Wild Exmoor ponies amongst heather and gorse, with Dunkery Beacon in the distance; the ancient bridge and ford leading to Lorna Doone Farm in pretty Malmsmead

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DEVON & SOMERSET Left to right: A spectacular sunset as seen from the coastal path at the Valley of the Rocks; a thatched farmhouse in the village of Bossington

For more things to do in beautiful Devon, see www.britainmagazine.com

THE PLANNER

PHOTOS: © AL AMY/STEPHEN DOREY ABIPP/GR AHAM HUNT

GETTING THERE Trains run from London Paddington to Taunton, from where you can take a local bus to Minehead, gateway to the Exmoor National Park, a journey of 3hr 15min. The West Somerset Railway is a heritage line that skirts the eastern edge of Exmoor from Bishops Lydeard to Minehead. www.thetrainline.com; www. west-somerset-railway.co.uk WHERE TO STAY Minehead on the coast is a good base for exploring Exmoor, with a historic harbour, plenty of local amenities and appealing places to stay such as the 17th-century Anchor Cottage, whose rooftop terrace has lovely sea views. In Dunster, the Luttrell Arms Hotel has elegant rooms, some of which come with four-poster beds and original fireplaces. In Porlock Weir, Locanda on the

Weir is a boutique offering overlooking the harbour with stylishly eclectic furnishings. anchorcottageminehead.co.uk; www.luttrellarms.co.uk; locandaontheweir.co.uk WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Reward yourself after a walk at Tarr Steps with a hearty lunch or a drink by the fire at Tarr Farm, an atmospheric inn dating from the 17th century. There’s a cosy bar menu as well as more formal restaurant fare. For fine dining, try The Coleridge Restaurant at Dunkery Beacon Country House, whose menu has dishes such as Fillet of Brixham sea bass with a prawn and udon noodle broth. www.tarrfarm.co.uk; dunkerybeaconaccommodation.uk

FURTHER INFORMATION www.visit-exmoor.co.uk

You can climb the zizagging steps to clifftop Lynton – bigger than its sister town, with a more refined air – or take the water-powered Victorian funicular for wonderful views of the sea far below. A precipitous path hugs England’s highest cliffs from Lynton to the Valley of the Rocks, an evocative landscape of craggy tors and vast boulders with names like ‘the Devil’s Cheesewring’, ‘Ragged Jack’ and ‘Castle Rock’. The poet Robert Southey, a friend of Coleridge, described the valley as ‘rock reeling upon rock, stone piled upon stone, a huge terrifying reeling mass’ – a forbidding landscape, certainly, but one whose harsh angles are softened by the serene beauty of the sea views. Coleridge himself was inspired to write The Rime of the Ancient Mariner during his wanderings here. After sea air and dramatic views, a cream tea is called for. Watersmeet is a National Trust tearoom in a magical setting, deep in a wooded gorge with tables set out on a lawn next to a ferociously gushing river. There has been a tea garden here since 1901; Devon tradition dictates that you spread the cream on your scone first, followed by a dollop of jam. Rivers tumble through tree-clad valleys throughout Exmoor, most famously at Tarr Steps, where an ancient ‘clapper’ bridge (formed by resting slabs of rock on stacks of stones, without the use of mortar) spans the River Barle. It is by far the longest such bridge in Britain, and its origins are a mystery: some date it to as far back as 1,000 BC, while local legend says that the steps were first laid by the Devil. As the story goes, when the Devil refused to let locals cross, the local parson decided to try his luck, confronting his adversary on the bridge and intimidating him into backing down. From then on anyone could cross unharmed – on the condition that they let the Devil sunbathe on the rocks when he wished. Assuming the way is clear, you can cross the bridge for a walk along the river, whose banks are swathed in bluebells in the spring. The Devil looms large in many local legends, often to explain Exmoor’s geological quirks. According to one tale, it was by hurling a spadeful of earth from Winsford Hill that the Devil created Dunkery Beacon. Somerset’s highest point at 1,705ft, this hill topped with Bronze Age cairns towers above the heathery moorland, a sea of purple in summer. From here, breathtaking views of a tapestry of landscapes unfold as far as Wales. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot Exmoor’s earliest inhabitants on the moors: a herd of wild ponies that have grazed here for thousands of years. More elusive is the fabled ‘Beast of Exmoor’, a phantom feline resembling a panther that’s said to roam the moors. Eyewitness sightings have been recorded since the 1970s, but the existence of the ‘beast’ remains uncorroborated. As the Romantic poets proved, the imagination does run wild on Exmoor. BRITAIN

COMPETITION

WIN A TWO-NIGHT STAY IN E

BEAUTIFUL EXMOOR

nter our competition to win a twonight stay at Cross Lane House, an intimate boutique hotel tucked away in picturesque Allerford, ideally located to explore Exmoor and the South West Coast Path. Nestled within the 12,000-acre National Trust Holnicote Estate within the Exmoor National Park, Cross Lane House is a beautiful Grade II-listed building that showcases many historic and original features, from the centuries-old notches in the walls to the handsome stone fireplace, dating to 1545. Cross Lane House has three en-suite bedrooms, all individually and lovingly designed with comfort and relaxation in mind.

Soothing colours, cosy textiles and homespun touches such as fresh flowers, books and retro radios make the rooms a real home from home. Breakfast at Cross Lane House is a serious affair! Freshly brewed coffee and tea, fruit, homemade granola, pastries and a hot breakfast set you up for a day of exploring. The cosy bar, although small in size, is big in West Country character. It serves a range of local spirits, ales, locally crafted cider, cocktails and a selection of wine. The prize includes a bottle of wine and a West Country cheeseboard for two. Cross Lane House is in an exceptional location for exploring Exmoor. Idyllic Allerford

ENTRY FORM SEND YOUR COUPON TO: US and Canada readers – Exmoor Competition, BRITAIN magazine, PO Box 207, Des Moines, IA 50301, US UK and Rest of World readers – Exmoor Competition, BRITAIN magazine, The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK

HOW TO ENTER For your chance to win this fantastic prize go to www.britain-magazine.com/ competitions/exmoor to apply or fill in the coupon below with the answer to the following question: Q: What is Exmoor’s highest point? a) Selworthy Beacon b) Dunkery Beacon c) Dunster TERMS AND CONDITIONS

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has a blacksmith’s forge and a packhorse bridge. Dunkery Beacon, Exmoor’s highest point, and Selworthy Beacon are nearby, while the medieval village of Dunster – a must-see – is just 10 minutes away. www.crosslanehouse.com

Closing date for entries is 12pm GMT 18 July 2022. The prize is for two people sharing a room and is subject to availability. The prize must be taken by 30 April 2023, excluding weeks with UK bank holidays, Christmas, New Year's, Valentine’s, and Easter weekend. Travel, meals, drinks and extras other than those featured in the prize are not included. Over-18s only. The prize is not transferable and there is no cash alternative.

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Historic Listed building & the oldest Historic Listed building & the oldest squash court in England. Explore the squash court in England. Explore the local Tudor and Medieval villages. local Tudor and Medieval villages. Bossingtonhall.co.uk +441643 862800 Bossingtonhall.co.uk +441643 862800 info@bossingtonhall.co.uk info@bossingtonhall.co.uk Prices from £150/n Prices from £150/n

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BRITAIN 23

Your Ultimate Platinum Jubilee Souvenir THE

HAPPY & GLORIOUS THE REMARKABLE LIFE AND TIMES OF HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II

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THE QUEEN

Queen

PHOTO: © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II, 2022/DOROTHY WILDING

The

through the decades To celebrate Her Majesty The Queen's Platinum Jubilee, we look back at her reign through seven iconic portraits WORDS HENRIETTA EASTON

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PHOTO: © ROYAL COLLECTION/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II, 2022/DOROTHY WILDING

PHOTO: © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2022/CECIL BEATON

THE QUEEN

1952

This image is from the first series of photographs of the Queen as the new sovereign, just 20 days after her accession. Taken by Dorothy Wilding, the first female photographer to earn a Royal Warrant, the photographs were used as a basis for new coins, banknotes and stamps. Her Majesty is wearing the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland tiara, supposedly her favourite, and affectionately known by her as ‘Granny’s tiara’, as it was a gift from Queen Mary on her wedding day. Both the Wilding portraits and the jewellery that appears in them will feature in a special display, The Queen’s Accession, in the State Rooms of Buckingham Palace (22 July to 2 October).

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1968

The society photographer Cecil Beaton photographed the Queen on many occasions, including on her Coronation day. Beaton write in his diary, “In choosing me to take her photographs, the Queen made a daring innovation… My work was still considered revolutionary and unconventional.” Looking away from the camera, Her Majesty is wearing the robes and star of the Order of the Garter, the most senior British order of chivalry. This portrait is on display at Kensington Palace as part of an exhibition, Life Through a Royal Lens (until 30 October), exploring the Royal Family’s enduring relationship with the camera.

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THE QUEEN

1976

PHOTO: © BETTMAN/GETTY IMAGES

Taken to celebrate her 50th birthday, this photograph shows Her Majesty smiling as she poses in the grounds of Windsor Castle. Windsor is the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world, founded by William the Conqueror in the 11th century, and has since been the home of 39 monarchs. For many decades the castle was a weekend home for the Queen, but since the death of Prince Philip she has chosen increasingly to spend her time at Windsor, and it is now considered her main home.

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PHOTO: © GETTY IMAGES

THE QUEEN

1987

In this official birthday portrait, taken at Buckingham Palace, the Queen looks happy and relaxed despite her formal attire. She wears a glittering gold lamé gown and an array of jewellery connecting her to past monarchs. The early 19th-century Diamond Diadem was originally made for King George IV; a diamond and ruby necklace – a gift from the Queen Mother – and Queen Mary’s ruby cluster earrings complete the sparkling ensemble. Pinned to the blue sash of the Order of the Garter are two family orders which bear miniature portraits of her grandfather King George V and her beloved father King George VI.

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PHOTO: © ANWAR HUSSEIN 2003/GETTY IMAGES

THE QUEEN

2003

Three generations of a family are photographed together in this portrait by Anwar Hussein, taken to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Queen’s Coronation at a special dinner hosted by Prince Charles at his home, Clarence House. The smiling Queen sits on a throne-like chair with Prince Charles and 20-year-old Prince William, first and second in line to the throne, behind her. “Our children, and all my family, have given me such love and unstinting help over the years,” the Queen said at her Golden Jubilee. Father and son seem to be almost contemplating their destiny as future kings as they stand proudly together behind the Queen.

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IMAGE: © COLIN WHITE/MAX COMMUNICATIONS LTD/RALPH HEIMANS

THE QUEEN

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THE QUEEN

For more on the Queen’s landmark Platinum Jubilee, see www.britainmagazine.com

2012

This portrait, entitled The Coronation Theatre, was painted by Ralph Heimans to mark Her Majesty’s Diamond Jubilee. She is pictured inside Westminster Abbey, standing at the centre of the Cosmati pavement, upon which she was crowned 60 years previously. This intricate mosaic has been an integral part of the Coronation ceremony since the time of Henry III, when it was created to evoke the eternal patterns of the universe; Shakespeare called it the ‘floor of heaven’. The Queen wears the crimson Robes of State, which she wore for her Coronation in 1953. Her diamond necklace and earrings, designed for Queen Victoria’s Coronation, were also worn by the Queen at her own Coronation ceremony.

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PHOTO: © CHRIS JACKSON/BUCKINGHAM PALACE/GETTY IMAGES/PA MEDIA

THE QUEEN

2022

Taken by royal photographer Chris Jackson to mark the 70th anniversary of Accession Day and the start of the Platinum Jubilee year, Her Majesty is pictured at Sandringham House, her Norfolk residence. On the table is the iconic red box, which is given to the monarch daily and contains government documents for review. The Queen’s diamond ivy leaf brooches were a 21stbirthday present from her mother, and the photograph beside her is of her father. The Queen said in a statement: “It is a day that, even after 70 years, I still remember as much for the death of my father, King George VI, as for the start of my reign.” The snowdrops, meanwhile, are a symbol of hope and consolation: “As I look ahead with a sense of hope and optimism to the year of my Platinum Jubilee, I am reminded of how much we can be thankful for.”

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Churchill The first

The 1st Duke of Marlborough rose from a youth of genteel poverty to become Britain’s greatest soldier and statesman

IMAGE: © BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

WORDS NEIL JONES

“H

e is about the middle height, and has the best figure in the world; his features are without fault, fine, sparkling eyes and good teeth… His ambition knows no bounds.” Such descriptions from his contemporaries paint a compelling picture of John Churchill, 1st Duke of Marlborough, the military genius behind the famous allied victory over Franco-Bavarian forces at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704. Today he is ranked one of England’s greatest-ever generals, while Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire, built as a gift to him from Queen Anne and a grateful nation, is a breathtaking display of Baroque architecture. The life and achievements of Marlborough are being celebrated this year – the 300th anniversary of his death – with a lively range of activities at Blenheim Palace. A Battlefields and Baroque immersive exhibition (until May) sees the palace decorated as it was in the 18th century and explores his family, royal connections and illustrious military career, while a Marlborough 300 Pageant (30–31 July) promises a colourful re-telling of his early life and soldiering, with spectacular re-enactments that include a battle, cavalry charges, muskets and drums. Look out, too,

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for talks and tours, and other themed activities. So who was John Churchill (1650–1722) and how did he rise from relative obscurity to become such an iconic figure? In a career as a soldier and statesman that spanned five different monarchs he won, lost and regained favour, switched his royal allegiances, was imprisoned, went into exile, and was maligned and fêted by turns – a fascinating, complex character whose motivations are the source of debate to this day. Born in 1650, the son of a gentry family impoverished in the Civil War, John became a page to the Duke of York (later King James II), joined the army and served abroad with distinction. “Handsome as an angel”, he made his mark at court too, becoming the lover of Barbara Villiers – mistress of King Charles II. It’s said the latter, having caught the pair together one day, simply admonished his young rival as “a rascal”, while Villiers, who bore Churchill a daughter in 1672, fondly gifted him the then immense sum of £5,000, though she said she paid much for “very little service”. In his turn Churchill became smitten with Sarah Jennings, an attendant and friend of Princess (later Queen) Anne. Against the norms of the day that largely saw

Previous page: John Churchill, 1st Duke of Marlborough, by Godfrey Kneller (1650-1722) Clockwise from above: Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire; portrait of Sarah Churchill, Duchess of Marlborough, by Kneller c.1700; the 1st Duke of Marlborough, by Kneller c.1712; Barbara Villiers, by Lely c.1665-70

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PHOTOS: © INCAMERASTOCK/IAN DAGNALL COMPUTING/ALAMY/BRIIDGEMAN IMAGES

HISTORY

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HISTORY For more on Blenheim Palace visit www.britainmagazine.com

Clockwise from top left: Illustration of the Battle of Sedgemoor by Peter Jackson; the 1st Duke and his family, by Closterman c.1690s; the Second State Room at Blenheim Palace; King James II, by de Largilliere c.1686

marriage as a business transaction for advancing one’s wealth and influence, the couple wed for love and in secret in 1677/78. Later accepted by their families, the stormy but devoted union produced five children who survived to adulthood. John and Sarah, strong-willed, ambitious and with eyes to the main chance, would become the power couple of the age. In 1685 Churchill was second-in-command of the army that quelled the Monmouth Rebellion at the Battle of Sedgemoor and thus helped to secure King James II on the throne after the death of Charles. However James’ ardent Catholicism soon troubled Churchill (who was raised in the Church of England), and in a move that combined undoubted personal self-interest with political acumen and religious belief Churchill transferred his allegiance in 1688 to Protestant William of Orange. An apologetic note justifying his actions to James explained: “I hope the great advantage I enjoy under Your Majesty, which I own I would never expect in any other change of government, may reasonably convince Your Majesty and the world that I am actuated by a higher principle…” While James fled, the new King William III rewarded Churchill with the title Earl of Marlborough. After a series of successful commands of English troops in Flanders and in Ireland between 1689 and 1691, Marlborough seemed well set for greater glories. But behind the scenes he was still in touch with James – it has been suggested he was not the only figure to hedge his bets against another regime change. When a forged document

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IMAGES: © LOOK AND LEARN/BRIDGEMAN IMAGES/IAN DAGNALL COMPUTING/ALAMY

Against the norms of the day that saw marriage as a business transaction, the couple wed for love and in secret

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falsely implicated him in a plot to restore the deposed king he was imprisoned in the Tower of London in 1692. Released after just five weeks, Marlborough was not really suspected of treason by responsible contemporaries but he continued to be cold-shouldered by William. His opposition to the King’s granting of favours to Dutch associates certainly didn’t help matters. But the wheel of fortune turned again. After the throne of Spain became vacant in 1700, the prospect of a potential union with France that would destabilise the balance of power in Europe set alarm bells ringing. A Grand Alliance including England, Austria and the Netherlands set out to contain French expansion, and with Queen Anne having succeeded William in 1702, Marlborough was appointed supreme commander of the allied forces. The War of the Spanish Succession (1701–14) saw the high point of Marlborough’s diplomatic and military achievements. He helped to negotiate, and held together, the Grand Alliance, and he proved his brilliance on the battlefield as a tactician in manoeuvring troops: at Blenheim in 1704, Ramillies in 1706 and Oudenarde in 1708, and although the “very murdering battle” of Malplaquet in 1709 was a draw, French expansion was finally halted. Sir

Winston Churchill noted that his distant relation “united the cunning of the fox to the force of the lion” Winston Churchill, writing much later of his distant relation, noted: “As clever at piercing the hidden designs of his enemy as in beating him on the field of battle, he united the cunning of the fox to the force of the lion.” Created Duke in 1702, Marlborough was lavishly rewarded for his feats, most notably with the gift of the Royal Manor of Woodstock in Oxfordshire and a grant for the building of Blenheim Palace. Meanwhile his wife Sarah had been accumulating power and offices at court, not least the role of Keeper of the Privy Purse. Her imperious influence over Queen Anne (dramatised with a degree of poetic licence in the Oscar-winning 2018 film The Favourite) had reached its apogee. Then the Marlboroughs’ fortunes suddenly tumbled again. Jealousies and plots at court and in parliament, political factionalism, and a general weariness with war led to accusations against the Duke that his personal avarice and ambition had motivated him to prolong the www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © HISTORY AND ART COLLECTION/ALAMY/PHOTOSM

Clockwise from above: The Battle of Malplaquet, by Laguerre c.1713-14; the Chapel at Blenheim Palace; the Marlborough 300 Pageant this summer will celebrate the life of the 1st Duke with battle reenactments

HISTORY

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Blenheim Palace, Gardens and Park are generally open daily. Battlefields & Baroque, an exhibition on the life of the 1st Duke of Marlborough, including 18th-century armour, a court feast and costumes from the film The Favourite, is at the Palace until the end of May.

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The Marlborough 300 Pageant (30-31 July) will see battle re-enactments, with horses, muskets, flags, drums and cavalry charges, as well as historical cameos and encampments showing life in the late 17th century. www.blenheimpalace.com

fighting. Following charges (later dropped) of appropriation of public money, he was dismissed from his offices. Sarah also had one too many altercations with the Queen and was stripped of her posts. The Marlboroughs retired from public life and went into what the Duchess called “a sort of exile” on the Continent for two years, returning in 1714 when they were restored to favour by the new King George I. By now, however, the Duke was a sick man prematurely worn out by his labours and responsibilities, and he largely passed his final years quietly, riding and playing cards, and much attached to his grandchildren. He would die following a stroke at the age of 72 in 1722, leaving the Duchess to complete (with no few arguments) Blenheim Palace. Both are buried in the Chapel there. There is no doubt that John Churchill was ruthless when necessary, highly ambitious and not averse to intrigue. But he was also personally courageous, a skilful administrator, inspired loyalty from his soldiers through the care he bore them, and displayed outstanding military talents. Visit Blenheim Palace and you will find out plenty more – there’s even the chance to ‘meet’ John and Sarah at the Marlborough 300 Pageant in July and hear what they have to say about their lives and times. BRITAIN

e im t y an 3 COMPETITION n 2 ake e 20 t be Jun n a c fore e z Pri be

WIN A GREAT BRITISH HOLIDAY Enter our competition for your chance to win a holiday in Britain for two worth up to £5,000, plus free international flights Would you like the chance to stay in five-star luxury in London, taking in the capital’s most famous sights? How about a trip to the quaint villages and rolling hills of the Cotswolds? Or even a visit to Edinburgh, Scotland’s stunning capital? You can win all of this and more in our fantastic Great British Holiday competition.

A luxurious London stay Starting with free flights (for overseas entrants), one lucky winner and their guest will travel

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to London for a luxury onenight stay at The Capital, a five-star townhouse hotel in the heart of Knightsbridge – just down the road from the iconic department store, Harrods, and a short stroll from Buckingham Palace. Get your stay off to a sparkling start with a glass of Champagne at the hotel before venturing out to explore the sights. Prepare to immerse yourself in English history, as the prize includes tickets to Hampton Court Palace, Henry VIII’s spectacular home,

as well as to the Tower of London. Here you can meet the legendary beefeaters and get up close to the Crown Jewels. Our winners will also receive tickets to attend the Ceremony of the Keys, the 700-year-old ceremonial ‘locking up’ of the Tower. After cocktails at The View from the Shard, where you’ll enjoy a breathtaking panorama of the city, you’ll be treated to a Michelin-starred dinner at Galvin La Chapelle, set in a grand former Victorian chapel.

On to historic Edinburgh Next, our winner and their guest will head to Edinburgh for a one-night stay at The Dunstane Houses, a five-star boutique hotel set in two Victorian townhouses. During your stay, you’ll visit the iconic Edinburgh Castle, followed by a special three-course dinner.

The charming Cotswolds To conclude your trip, it’s time to escape to the countryside. Our winner and their guest will be given annual passes to one of www.britain-magazine.com

COMPETITION

Free international flights A night in a luxury London hotel Tickets to some of the capital’s top sights Gourmet dining A night in a boutique hotel in Edinburgh Edinburgh Castle Spa stay and dinner in the Cotswolds Blenheim Palace

In London, enjoy cocktails for two at The View from the Shard, followed by a gourmet dinner at Galvin La Chapelle. In Scotland’s capital, visit historic Edinburgh Castle and enjoy a threecourse dinner – courtesy of Buyagift, the UK’s leading provider of experience days. www.buyagift.co.uk

Explore the iconic Tower of London, which includes a pair of tickets to the Ceremony of the Keys, as well as tickets to Hampton Court Palace, courtesy of Historic Royal Palaces. www.hrp.org.uk

HOW TO ENTER Britain’s finest stately homes and the birthplace of Winston Churchill, Blenheim Palace. Your stay for the night will be at Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa, a luxurious hotel in the Wiltshire Cotswolds, with dinner in Michelin-starred The Dining Room included. You can also take advantage of the top-class facilities at the Aquarias Spa, rounding off an unforgettable stay with a relaxing flotation pod experience for two. www.britain-magazine.com

Go to www.britain-magazine.com/ gbh2022 or fill in the coupon on the right with the answer to the question below:

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Question: Where are the Crown Jewels held? a) The Tower of London b) Buckingham Palace c) Hampton Court Palace

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PHOTOS: © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/RICHARD LEA-HAIR/LAZYLLAMA/SHUTTERSTOCK

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Two annual tickets to Blenheim Palace, one of the country’s finest stately homes and the birthplace of Winston Churchill. www.blenheimpalace.com

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The Drama

Delavals

PHOTO: © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JAMES DOBSON

of the

Seaton Delaval Hall was once the home of a scandalous Georgian family known for their parties and pranks. 200 years after a catastrophic fire, a National Trust restoration is bringing back the Delavals’ spirit and spectacle WORDS FELICITY DAY

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STATELY HOMES

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STATELY HOMES

o the sailors anchored off the Northumberland coastline near Whitley Bay, the sunset on the 3rd of January 1822 seemed an unusually brilliant one. But the mesmerizing glow they saw on the horizon that night was no natural wonder; half a mile inland a fire was raging at Seaton Delaval Hall. For five hours it blazed furiously, the heat so intense, according to local newspaper reports, that the lead in the roof “poured down like water” and the glass windowpanes melted away. By daybreak, “a mass of splendid ruins” was all that remained of a house once brimming with life and laughter. For almost a century beforehand, the hall had been home to a Georgian dynasty like no other. It was Admiral George Delaval, made rich by naval prize money, who purchased the land from a near-bankrupt Delaval relative in 1717, knocked down the existing mansion and commissioned Sir John Vanbrugh to create a home for his retirement. The result was the striking central block of Seaton Delaval Hall, scorched and stripped back to the brick as a result of the fire, but still standing solidly in the Northumberland soil; its facade, with its theatrical turrets, triangular pediment and imposing pillars, faintly recognisable to anyone familiar with Vanbrugh’s Yorkshire commission, Castle Howard. Unfortunately, the Admiral died before he could enjoy the fruits of his labours, so it was left to his nephew Captain Francis Delaval, wife Rhoda and twelve children to breathe life into the house, which they did with gusto. Especially after the Captain’s eldest son, also called Francis, inherited in 1753.

Previous page: Seaton Delaval Hall, Northumberland Clockwise from left: A new art installation in the house, by artist Imogen Cloët; the rose garden; Sir Francis Blake Delaval, by Joshua Reynolds, c.1759

A fast-living 18th-century aristocrat, Sir Francis was fond of women, good wine and gambling

IMAGES: © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOHN HAMMOND/DENNIS GILBERT/COLIN DAVISON PHOTOGRAPHY

A characteristically fast-living 18th-century aristocrat, Sir Francis Blake Delaval was fond of women, good wine and gambling – not to mention spending money and showing off. On one occasion he hired London’s Drury Lane theatre simply to stage Othello, performed by his nearest and dearest for an audience that included most of the nobility and the royal family. Despite being very happy with his mistress – a one-time ward of the Delaval family – his expensive lifestyle saw him resort to tricking a vulnerable heiress into marriage. Middle-aged widow Lady Isabella Paulet was persuaded by a fortune teller – a theatrical friend of Delaval’s in disguise – that she would meet her next husband in London’s Green Park the following day, dressed in blue and silver. Lo and behold the man poor Isabella clapped eyes on was Francis, dressed accordingly and going out of his way to be agreeable. They married just days later. Thankfully, the bulk of her fortune was so well tied-up that Francis was unable to touch it, and eventually his debts mounted so high that he was forced to cede control of the Seaton Delaval estate to his brother, Sir John, in exchange for a regular allowance. www.britain-magazine.com

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STATELY HOMES

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STATELY HOMES

IMAGES: © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JAMES DOBSON/JOHN HAMMOND

Left to right: The dramatic North Front; Rhoda Apreece, wife of Captain Francis Blake Delaval, by John Vanderbank the younger, 1725

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Francis was far from the only member of the family to court scandal. His married niece Sarah was mistress to George III’s son, Frederick, Duke of York, before leaving her husband for the Earl of Strathmore; while his sickly nephew John was finally carried off after receiving a forceful kick in the groin from a maid fending off his amorous advances. But it wasn’t only the scandal that made the Delaval brood and their Baroque mansion notorious. Sir Francis and his siblings were not only known for hosting shindigs on a monumental scale – 4,000 guests milling around the garden; dinner parties that got through 145 bottles of wine – but famed for pranking their party guests. Unsuspecting visitors of ‘The Gay Delavals’ (as they were known) might wake to find that their bedroom seemed to be upside down, the furniture stuck to the ceiling, or that their clothes suddenly seemed a couple of sizes too small, having been taken in overnight. Even unluckier victims had their bed plunged into a pit of cold water without warning, or an artificial wall in their bedchamber hoisted at the very moment they were undressing. How exactly the pranks were played remains a bit of a mystery. Disappointingly, no trace of such shenanigans remains today, the South East Wing that contained all the bedrooms having been destroyed in the fire. Yet the mischief-making, theatre-loving Delavals remain a vivid presence in the house, particularly in the West Wing, re-opening to visitors this spring – the culmination of one of the most ambitious conservation projects ever undertaken by the National Trust, who acquired the hall in 2009. BRITAIN

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Housing the kitchens and servants’ quarters in the time of Sir Francis and his siblings, the West Wing was most recently home to the 22nd Baron Hastings, into whose family the house had passed after the death of the last male in the Delaval line in 1814. Now, it brings ‘The Gay Delavals’ back to life for visitors, with family portraits (some by local artist William Bell, rescued from the fire and newly restored); and a taste of the furnishings that provided the backdrop to their lavish parties – though only a few items in the collection pre-date the fire. One of them, a 17th-century ebony and ivory cabinet, is crammed full of concealed drawers, surely once the perfect repository for Delaval secrets. Not just in the West Wing, though, but all around the property are reminders of its fascinating former residents and chequered past: from the spots of lead that stain the walls and tiled floor of the Central Hall (which the Trust plans to leave as a sort of atmospheric, living monument to

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the house’s near-destruction); to the initials of Sir Francis stamped into the door of the silver safe in the basement, and the stable-block he christened by making its stalls the surprising venue for a banquet. There are nods to the naval career that made Admiral George rich, and to the coalmining and bottle-making that filled the family coffers during the Industrial Revolution; as well as an early engineering marvel, a pair of cantilevered spiral staircases that carried Delavals and servants alike. It may be a shadow of its 18th-century self, but it’s easy to see why Seaton Delaval Hall was once considered one of northern England’s most splendid houses. Thankfully, two centuries after the devastating blaze that almost destroyed it, the stage is all set for its glorious second act.

Above: The beautiful cantilever staircase, designed by Sir John Vanbrugh

PHOTO: © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/COLIN DAVISON

All around the house are reminders of its fascinating former residents and chequered past

 For more on stately homes, visit www.britain-magazine.com

PLAN AHEAD The National Trust will re-open the West Wing at Seaton Delaval to visitors in May 2022. For opening times, ticket prices and visitor information, see www.nationaltrust.org.uk/seaton-delaval-hall

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HERITAGE

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HERITAGE

SIMPLY CAPITAL

A number of towns in Britain once served as ancient capitals. Discover the rich history of the towns that achieved the highest status in the land

WORDS JANICE HOPPER

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HERITAGE

Oxford, Oxfordshire

It’s said that Oxford was spared from Nazi air raids because Hitler planned to make this elegant seat of learning England’s new capital. Oxford did in fact serve as a capital city during the English Civil War (1642–51), when King Charles I made the city his Royalist base for much of the conflict. The city, and especially its university, provided core Royalist support. The King resided in Christ Church; Parliament was held in Oxford; the Royal Mint moved to the city; weapons, gunpowder and the production of soldiers’ uniforms became bustling industries; and the serenity of New College and its cloisters was interrupted when it was used as a munitions store. Despite Royalist efforts, the city fell to the Parliamentarians in 1646. Modern visitors will find the Oxford of today a more tranquil place, whose reputation as a world-class seat of learning can be felt within the hallowed walls of the Bodleian Library and the iconic Radcliffe Camera. Take in historic colleges from Christ Church and Magdalen to Keble, drop by the Ashmolean Museum for a global array of artefacts and stories, and glide along the river on a traditional punt. www.experienceoxfordshire.org

Gainsborough, Lincolnshire

Gainsborough’s time as a capital was famously short. After Ethelred the Unready ordered the slaughter of the Danes in England in 1002, Sweyn Forkbeard, King of Denmark, sought revenge. Forkbeard claimed the English crown, making Gainsborough and its castle his headquarters, but a mere five weeks later he died of suspected poisoning: Britain’s shortest-reigning monarch. His son, Canute, regained control but swiftly abandoned Gainsborough and was crowned in London. One of the best-preserved medieval manors in Britain, Gainsborough Old Hall witnessed the town’s other moment in the spotlight. Gainsborough had strong links with the Mayflower pilgrims: local separatists were secretly worshipping in the Old Hall from 1606, eventually escaping to religious freedom overseas. Visitors can wander the manor’s huge oak-beamed kitchen and Great Hall, then take in sweeping views across town from its red-brick tower. www.discovergainsborough.com

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HERITAGE

Scone, Perthshire Before Edinburgh, Scone was the ancient capital of Scotland. King Kenneth MacAlpin united the Picts and the Scots of Dalriada under his rule in 843. He established his seat of power in Scone, and is credited with bringing Scotland’s famous Stone of Destiny, ancient symbol of the Scottish monarchy, here in the 9th century. Among Scotland’s kings and queens to be crowned at Scone’s Moot Hill was Robert the Bruce in 1306; the last ceremony was that of Charles II in 1651. Perthshire fell from royal favour after King James I’s assassination at Blackfriars Monastery in 1437, and Edinburgh subsequently rose to prominence. Today, Scone is an elegant and welcoming town whose architectural highlight is the 19th-century Scone Palace. Explore the grand State Rooms where Queen Victoria and Prince Albert dined during their visit of 1842, before admiring the replica Honours of Scotland – the Scottish Crown Jewels – in the Lennox Room. scone-palace.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com

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Winchester, Hampshire

King Alfred the Great oversaw the Kingdom of Wessex, a vast swathe of southern England, in the late 9th century, and was England’s dominant ruler at the time. From his capital, the city of Winchester, he presided over a series of Viking attacks and counterattacks, and ruled until his death in 899. Today, Winchester seems far removed from the turbulent home of a warrior king. Jane Austen fans are drawn to Winchester Cathedral to visit her final resting place, while tours highlight the city’s connection with other literary lights, including John Keats and Thomas Hardy. The city’s 13th-century Great Hall houses the iconic symbol of medieval mythology, King Arthur’s Round Table, while the lovingly restored heritage trains of the Watercress Line steam and whistle through the idyllic countryside around town. www.visitwinchester.co.uk

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HERITAGE

Tamworth, Staffordshire

Colchester, Essex The Roman Emperor Claudius made Colchester (then known as Camulodunum) the first capital of Roman Britain in AD 49. It was granted the status of a Roman colonia: a settlement for Roman veterans, and a beacon of Roman values and way of life. Camulodunum boasted a theatre and a temple to Claudius, but it wasn’t particularly well defended and its glory days ended during Boudica’s Revolt of AD 60, when it was a natural target for the rebellious Queen of the Iceni. The city was ransacked and its citizens slaughtered. The town was rebuilt, this time incorporating thick defensive walls, many sections of which are still standing. Of particular note is Balkerne Gate, the original main entrance to the town. Discover more of the town’s ancient past at the Colchester Castle Museum, whose star exhibits include a hoard of Roman treasure, ancient statues and mosaics. Nearby, the Roman Circus Visitor Centre is home to the remains of a Britain’s only known chariot-racing track, a monumental structure that seated up to 8,000 spectators. www.visitcolchester.com

As the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Mercia, Tamworth has an intriguing past. King Offa (757-796), its most admired leader, had a royal palace at Tamworth from which he communicated with foreign powers such as Charlemagne and Pope Adrian I. But in 874 the Vikings destroyed Tamworth, and it lay in ruins until 913, when it was re-fortified by Aethelflaed, daughter of King Alfred the Great, who became known as the Lady of the Mercians. When she died in Tamworth just five years later Mercian power declined and the region was merged into the Kingdom of Wessex. A statue of warrior queen Aethelflaed stands at the foot of the Norman Tamworth Castle, where a new interactive exhibition, Battle and Tribute, brings the town’s tumultuous Anglo-Saxon history to life. Other gems in town include the Assembly Rooms, built in 1889 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee; almshouses built in 1678 to provide homes and a garden for local poor women; and the Moat House, a Tudor stately home, where you can stop for refreshment in a beer garden with a notably aristocratic backdrop. www.visittamworth.co.uk

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Explore 1,000 years of history

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Islands

Stream in the

The small islands, called ‘eyots’ or ‘aits’, dotted along the River Thames in London have fascinating stories to tell

WORDS GILLY PICKUP

HERITAGE

60 BRITAIN

round 180 small islands, called ‘eyots’ or ‘aits’, are dotted along the River Thames, stretching from West London to Windsor. The name ‘eyot’ or ‘ait’ (pronounced ‘eight’) comes from the Old English word ‘iggath’, meaning a small island. The word crops up in Charles Dickens’ Bleak House (“Fog everywhere. Fog up the river, where it flows among green aits and meadows ….”), and the islands themselves have many of their own stories to tell. Some of the islands are accessible by footbridge, others by road, while a few, including Garrick’s Ait and Pharaoh’s Island, situated above Shepperton Lock, can only be reached by boat. The latter was named when Admiral Lord Nelson won the Battle of the Nile, one of the key victories of the Napoleonic Wars. He was rewarded with the ait and it became his fishing retreat. Many residences here still sport Egyptian names such as Luxor, The Sphinx and Pyramid – a touch of exoticism on the River Thames. Magna Carta Island is also steeped in history. Researchers believe it was where King John signed the Magna Carta, the first document to put into writing the principle that the king was not above the law, in 1215. Within the Charter Room of the island’s main house is an octagonal slab of stone where the parchment was thought to have been spread out. In 1217 Henry III and the future Louis VIII of France met here, while in 1974, Her Majesty the Queen visited from nearby Windsor to plant a tree in the garden. The island was put up for sale in 2021 for

Previous page: Temple Island, start point of the prestigious Henley Royal Regatta Clockwise from above: The peaceful Sonning Eye island; the Temple to Shakespeare on Garrick's Ait; Pharaoh's Island was once Nelson's fishing retreat

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HERITAGE £4.25 million: not too unreasonable a sum to own your own island and a monumental slice of history. One of the best-known aits is car-free Eel Pie Island, named after a dish on the menu of a 19th-century hotel here that mysteriously burned down in the 1970s. Its main claim to fame was as a music venue in the swinging 60s. Pink Floyd, the Rolling Stones, Rod Stewart and The Who all performed here, as did 17-year-old Davy Jones, who later shot to fame as David Bowie. Indeed, Eel Pie Island has been dubbed ‘the place where the Sixties began’, though many tabloid newspapers of that era weren’t so kind, describing it as a ‘beatnik-infested vice den’. This only increased its intrigue, and for a period, the island became so popular that it even began issuing its own passports. While its party-loving heyday was undoubtedly the 1960s, the island’s reputation for loucheness goes back

Magna Carta Island was put up for sale for £4.25 million: not too unreasonable a sum for a monumental slice of history centuries. In days of old, the only way to reach Eel Pie was by a small ferry, which suited some rich gentlemen of the time who built chalets there to house their mistresses out of harm’s way. The story goes that these rogues would pay the ferryman not to row their wives across. However, a pedestrian bridge built in 1957 put an end to those particular shenanigans. While on the subject of love nests, Holm Island further west was a favourite haunt of Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson. They stayed in a house called The Nest, the ideal romantic hideaway to protect them from prying eyes. Meanwhile, the Three Swans pub on Brentford Ait was also infamous as a meeting place for royal liaisons. The Prince Regent, later George IV, used to slip away from Kew Palace for meetings with his mistress Mary Robinson here. It is possible, though not certain, that Monkey Island’s

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HERITAGE name was derived from the Old English ‘Monks Eyot’, because the first inhabitants were an order of Augustinian monks. Whatever the name’s origins, for over 800 years the island has attracted monarchs, writers and aristocrats. The 3rd Duke of Marlborough bought the land in 1723 to use as an angling retreat, and built grand Palladian buildings, a ‘Fishing Temple’ and an octagonal pavilion for entertaining. The pavilion’s ground-floor ‘Monkey Room’ was exotically painted with depictions of monkeys fishing and hunting. After the duke’s death in 1758, rumours swirled that ‘mad’ King George III had been banished to the island with his pet monkey. Centuries later, it became a fashionable location for the London party crowd of the 1960s, hosting Princess Margaret and her friends. Today the duke’s grand fishing retreat is now a five-star hotel, where you can enjoy afternoon tea on the terrace overlooking the river. Another island that attracted London’s high society is Tagg’s Island. Thomas Tagg built the island’s Thames Hotel, the place to be seen back then – Prince Edward, the future King Edward VII, was a regular. However, it was impresario Frederick Westcott, better known as Fred Karno – the man who discovered Charlie Chaplin and was the originator of the custard-pie-in-the-face gag – who put Tagg’s Island on the map. He created an entertainment complex here, comprising a hotel, ballroom and a music

MORE SECRET ISLANDS Temple Island enjoys an idyllic location surrounded by wooded hills. It marks the start point of the Henley Royal Regatta, the prestigious annual rowing event held since 1839. The island has an elegant ornamental temple designed by the architect James Wyatt and built in 1771. Garrick’s Ait was popular for its willow trees in the 18th century, whose wood was made into all manner of things including cricket bats, ladders and fence poles. This island is named after the 18th-century actor and theatre manager David Garrick, whose house and Temple to Shakespeare are nearby. Sonning Eye has long been a favoured artist’s location, thanks to its location on one of the loveliest stretches of the Thames; Pre-Raphaelite painter George Price Boyce lived here. More recently, film star George Clooney and his wife Amal bought a 17th-century mansion (complete with its own boat house, of course) on this idyllic heart-shaped island. Oliver’s Island takes its name from the myth that Oliver Cromwell once took refuge here. There was even talk of a secret tunnel connecting the island with a nearby inn, the Bull’s Head, built to help Catholic priests escape their Protestant persecutors. No trace of this has ever been found, however, and the only inhabitants are now herons, cormorants and Canada geese. Queen’s Eyot is owned by Eton College, England’s most famous public school, and is accessible only by private ferry. The four-acre island, a few miles upstream from Windsor, is home to a clubhouse where the boys of Eton could once buy snacks and beer. Lock Island was uninhabited until the late 19th century, when Londoners moved here to escape the grime of the city. During the Blitz, more families fled the bombs for this relatively safe haven, and their descendants live here to this day.

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Left: King George III, by Zoffany c. 1771 Below and far left: views of the Monkey Island Estate, which is now a hotel

hall, the ‘Karsino’, designed by renowned theatre architect Frank Matcham. There were tennis matches and croquet on the lawn. Opened in 1913, it was billed the ‘finest and most luxurious river hotel in Europe’ and enjoyed huge success. Karno modestly described the resort as “the hub of the universe for river people”, but as with so many of these little Thames islands, whose fortunes have ebbed and flowed with the centuries, the tide turned with the outbreak of the First World War. A vestige of the island’s one-time glitz remains, however: today, the island is surrounded by some of the Thames’s most luxurious houseboats, earning this stretch of the river the nickname ‘the Thames Riviera’.

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WEEKENDER

“T

SHAFTESBURY

he City of Dream” is how localborn writer Thomas Hardy described Shaftesbury, one of England’s most picturesque towns, which played a key role in two of his best-loved novels. At 750 feet above sea level, Shaftesbury is also one of England’s highest towns, and its steep main street played a starring role in the celebrated 1970s Hovis bread advert, made by filmmaker Ridley Scott, where a young delivery boy puffs up the hill with his bread-laden bike, then freewheels down the other side. Known as Sceptesberie in the Domesday Book, Shaftesbury was founded by the Saxons as part of a fortified settlement in the late 9th century. King Alfred the Great, who created the settlement as part of a defensive network designed to ward off Danish attack, also founded Shaftesbury Abbey as a Benedictine nunnery, installing his daughter, Aethelgiva, as abbess. In 978 the young Saxon King Edward was murdered and laid to rest in Wareham, some 30 miles from Shaftesbury, and a www.britain-magazine.com

At the heart of Dorset, Shaftesbury is one of England’s most historic and beautiful towns WORDS HEIDI FULLER-LOVE

year later his relics were transferred to Shaftesbury Abbey. According to one contemporary account, during the 30-mile journey, two paraplegics who were brought to see Edward’s bier immediately regained the use of their legs. Other miracles reportedly occurred when Edward the Martyr’s remains were laid to rest in the abbey, and Shaftesbury rapidly became an important pilgrimage site, attracting a flurry of royal visitors, including Elizabeth, wife of Robert the Bruce and Viking King Above: Gold Hill featured in the 1970s Hovis adverts Next page, from left: St Peter’s Church dates to the 14th century; Durdle Door on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast is only a short drive from Shaftesbury

Canute, who died here in 1035, and whose heart may have been buried at the abbey. As the abbey gained in importance, King Athelstan, a grandson of Alfred the Great known for his piety, established several royal mints in the city with the aim of unifying Britain’s coinage. As the mints churned out Saxon pennies bearing the pious king’s image, this high-flung fortified town at the heart of one of Britain’s prettiest regions grew extremely wealthy. A popular saying at the time declared “If the abbot of Glastonbury should marry the abbess of Shaftesbury, their heir would have more land than the King of England.” A few centuries later, during the English Reformation in 1539, however, the town’s wealth became its downfall. Declaring himself the Supreme Head on Earth of the Church of England, King Henry VIII, who was interested in expropriating the abbey’s legendary assets, ordered his minister Thomas Cromwell to have the convent dissolved and the buildings demolished. Thomas Hardy, who featured the town BRITAIN

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Gold Hill is also the site of a small museum where artefacts relating to Shaftesbury’s history during the Industrial Revolution – as a centre for button making and for producing swanskin, a crude woollen cloth that was used by fisherman to make their uniforms – is now commemorated. Other exhibits that can be found in this intriguing museum include Dorset’s oldest fire engine, dating from 1744. Wander the tangle of lanes leading to the bottom of town and you will find countless other buildings that conjure up the city’s glorious past. Look out for the abbey’s massive buttresses along Gold Hill; Edwardstow, Shaftesbury’s oldest surviving building along Bimport; and 19th-century wall tablets in the Holy Trinity church on Lyons Walk. With its crooked alleys, cobbled streets, 18th-century houses and charming hotels, the town makes the ideal base for exploring some of Dorset’s other stunning sights too. Shaftesbury is just a short drive from the UNESCO-protected Jurassic Coast and the historic towns of Dorchester and Sherborne, and within walking distance of the glorious rolling hills of Blackmore Vale.  For more day-trips and short breaks, see www.britain-magazine.com

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE Trains run from London Waterloo to Gillingham, the nearest station to Shaftesbury (2hr 20min). The X2 bus travels between the two towns (15min), or take a taxi. www.nationalrail.co.uk WHERE TO STAY For a blend of comfort and history, check into the the Grosvenor Arms hotel in the town’s main square, which has spacious rooms and an excellent restaurant serving seasonal, local, wild and organic dishes. Or book a luxurious, all-inclusive stay in pretty Well Cottage near Shaftesbury with English Cottage Vacation. grosvenorarms.co.uk; www.englishcottagevacation.com WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK The Fontmell, a short drive from Shaftesbury, is the best place to eat in these parts. The menu changes daily but typical dishes are pan-roasted lamb with dauphinoise potatoes and seasonal greens, or Dorset cider-battered fish with homemade tartar sauce and chips. Among several appealing pubs, the Half Moon is a convivial place for a drink or for superior pub fare. The Sunday roasts are popular, so book ahead. www.thefontmell.co.uk; halfmoonshaftesbury.co.uk FURTHER INFORMATION www.shaftesburytourism.co.uk

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in his novels under its ancient name of Shastone, was fascinated by Shaftesbury’s history. Writing of the abbey ruins in Jude the Obscure, he speaks of “vague imaginings of its castle, its three mints, its magnificent apsidal abbey, the chief glory of south Wessex, its 12 churches, its shrines, chantries, hospitals, its gabled freestone mansions – all now ruthlessly swept away.” Today the abbey’s excavated remains are home to an award-winning museum, where a host of fascinating exhibits, including Saxon carvings, medieval floor tiles and other artefacts, tell of the convent’s long history. Surrounded by walled grounds dotted with medieval orchards, the abbey museum also has a large garden planted with more than a hundred medicinal herbs that were used during the Middle Ages. Gold Hill, the picturesque cobbled street surmounted by the medieval St Peter’s church, which featured in that celebrated 1970s Hovis advert, is a short but steep walk away from the abbey gardens. The street’s steep incline offers stunning views over what Thomas Hardy – who used it as the backdrop for the opening scene in Tess of the D’Urbervilles – called the “engirdled and secluded” Blackmore Vale.

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LANCASHIRE

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LANCASHIRE

Rediscovering the

Red Rose County Central to the Wars of the Roses, a hub of the Industrial Revolution and the location for a notorious witch trial, historic Lancashire is now a serene region of rolling hills and old-world villages WORDS CATHERINE JONES

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hen William Blake wrote about ‘Jerusalem’ being built among England’s pleasant pastures, mountains green and dark satanic mills, he could have been describing the landscape of 19th-century Lancashire. And 200 years on, Lancashire is still a land of contrasts: of populous former mill towns and a varied 130-mile stretch of coastline backed by stunning countryside. Perhaps surprisingly, given its key role within the history of the Industrial Revolution, four-fifths of the ‘Red Rose County’ remains rural. Bordered by the Lake District to the north and the Yorkshire Dales to the east, Lancashire’s countryside is redolent of both – a mix of moorland, stone wall-bounded fells and valleys, saltmarshes and waterways, all threaded with walking trails. Before industrialisation, Lancashire’s early history embraced Roman and Viking settlements, Saxon homesteads and Norman conquerors – and it was from the red rose symbol adopted in the 14th century by John of Gaunt, 1st Duke of Lancaster, that the county inherited its famous floral moniker. You can find remnants of Lancashire’s former inhabitants scattered throughout the county, from the remains of a Roman fort at Ribchester to ancient stone barrow graves near the ruins of the 8th-century St Patrick’s church at Heysham, and the Saxon ‘cruck’ barn at Rivington Hall. Meanwhile the ancient market town of Clitheroe nestles

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beneath the clifftop remains of a 12th-century Norman castle, now home to a museum and set in 16 acres of landscaped gardens. Clitheroe sits at the heart of the scenic Ribble Valley and on the edge of the Forest of Bowland, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty that encompasses sweeping moorland, wooded valleys and the dramatic Gisburn Forest. Narrow roads, hugged by drystone walls, wind their way through the landscape from one picturesque village to the next, where centuries-old houses still sport original mullions and datestones. The ruins of a 14th-century Cistercian abbey lie beside the River Calder at Whalley, while the jagged remains of a second abbey, at nearby Sawley and now in the care of English Heritage, date from 1148. The picture-perfect village of Downham sits in the shadow of the gritstone Pendle Hill, where in 1652 the preacher George Fox had a vision of “a people in white raiment, coming to the Lord” before founding the Quakers. However, it remains more famous for the 12 local ‘witches’ at the heart of one of the darkest moments in British legal history. It was claimed the 11 women and one man had brought about several deaths by sorcery and had cursed others in the moorland community. The accusations were levelled chiefly by and against two local families, the Devices and the Whittles, and were tinged with rivalry and revenge. The Pendle Witches traversed the Trough of Bowland’s

Previous page: A train travels over the Ribblehead Viaduct in the Ribble Valley Opposite, top to bottom: the market town of Clitheroe; the ruins of 14th-century Sawley Abbey

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The Pendle Witches traversed the Trough of Bowland’s high pass on their way to Lancaster, where ten of them were sentenced to death

Clockwise, from top left: Salmesbury Hall dates back to the 14th century; medieval Lancaster Castle is owned by the Queen; the ornate Jacobean Drawing Room at Gawthorpe Hall

A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME The Wars of the Roses (1455–1485) were a power struggle between two families, the royal houses of Lancaster and York who were both descended from Edward III and had rival claims to the throne. The wars’ name has been romantically attributed to a meeting of the two factions in a garden one day. When the Yorkist leader picked a white rose as his emblem, the Lancastrian leader plucked a red rose as his. The other nobles present followed suit, picking a white or red rose to show their allegiance. In reality, the scene probably never happened, and was invented by Shakespeare, who included it in his play Henry VI, Part 1. The Wars of the Roses were not so called until much later, when the 18th-century novelist Sir Walter Scott gave them their romantic name.

high pass on their journey to Lancaster where they were tried, alongside the so-called Samlesbury Witches, at the summer assizes of 1612; ten of the Pendle accused were sentenced to death. The assizes were held at Lancaster Castle. The magnificent and impenetrable Grade I-listed medieval landmark is today owned by the Queen through the Duchy of Lancaster and stands on a hilltop where the Romans once built a series of garrison forts. Generations of judges who decided the fate of defendants stayed in lodgings in the city, and the Judges’ Lodgings Museum dates from the 1620s when it was built for Thomas www.britain-magazine.com

Covell, the Keeper of the Castle responsible for locking up the Pendle Witches among others. Lancaster itself developed over many centuries along the curving banks of the River Lune. You can still find Georgian buildings lining its waterfront, while the Cottage Museum on Castle Hill recreates the life of ordinary people during Victorian times in rooms spread over five tiny but fascinating floors. If the Cottage Museum shines a light on the lives of everyday Lancastrians, the county is also rich with grander historic houses. Leighton Hall at Carnforth, just north of Lancaster, is the 18th-century ancestral home of the Gillow family of furniture makers. It’s filled with examples of their work as well as other beautiful objects and, unusually, visitors are encouraged to sit on the furniture here. A manor has stood at Samlesbury, outside Blackburn, since 1185, although the current Samlesbury Hall dates from the 14th century. The remarkable half-timbered building was saved from demolition after the First World War and later opened to the public. Meanwhile Browsholme Hall near Clitheroe, surrounded by beautiful gardens and parkland, has been in the same family since it was built in 1509. Gawthorpe Hall at Burnley has been dubbed a mini ‘Downton of the North’ (like Highclere Castle, the filming location for Downton Abbey, it was designed by the architect Charles Barry) and holds an important textile collection. It was the textile industry that revolutionised the fortunes of this corner of North West England, first through wool and linen manufacture and later thanks to ‘king cotton’, imported through the Liverpool docks and spun and woven into fabric at the mills and weaving sheds that sprang up across the south of the county. While most of Lancashire’s great mills are gone, you can get a sense of what it was like to work in one by watching historic machinery in action at the Helmshore Textile Museum, or exploring the atmospheric weaving shed at Queen Street Mill at Harle Syke near Burnley, which still holds more than 300 looms. At its peak, Lancashire supplied one third of all the world’s cotton goods, and at the end of the 19th century half a million people – one in eight of the county’s population – were employed in the industry. Work was hard and sometimes dangerous, and hours were long, but each summer from the mid-1800s Lancashire’s mills would close while their workers enjoyed what became known as the Wakes Week holiday. Each area nominated their own week between June and September during which heavy industry stopped, and thousands of happy holidaymakers would set out for BRITAIN

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Each summer Lancashire’s mills would close while their workers enjoyed Wakes Week, when thousands of happy holidaymakers would set off for the coast

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LANCASHIRE

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the Lancashire coast on ‘Wakes special’ excursion trains, heading for its sandy beaches. Resorts sprang up from Southport, with its Parisianstyle Lord Street and iron pier, the oldest in the country, to Morecambe, home to a four-and-a-half-mile prom, sparkling Winter Gardens and, in later years, the landmark Art Deco Midland Hotel. And of course, they flocked to Blackpool, the ‘playground of the north’ with its miles of beaches and dazzling annual illuminations. The oldest of the resort’s three piers, the Grade II-listed North Pier, dates from 1863, and when the Winter Gardens opened in 1878, visitors must have been dazzled by their giant glass-roofed Floral Hall and indoor and outdoor skating rinks. The Winter Gardens complex is still an impressive sight today, encompassing the Empress Ballroom, Spanish Hall and Art Deco Opera House. A few steps away, the Grand Theatre’s auditorium is a magnificent confection of cavorting cherubs and ornate plasterwork. Prolific theatre architect Frank Matcham had been briefed to build ‘the prettiest theatre in the land’, and some have called it his masterpiece. In 1894, the landmark Blackpool Tower was built, inspired by the Eiffel Tower. Of all the county’s many panoramic vantage points, there’s no better place from which to admire the curving coastline and the rolling Lancashire landscape than from the Tower’s lofty observation deck. It tops a building which also contains the world-famous, and unmissable, Tower Ballroom – another Matcham spectacular. Whether you choose a spin around England’s most famous dance floor or afternoon tea to the strains of the Wurlitzer organ, it’s an essential Blackpool experience. www.britain-magazine.com

THE PLANNER GETTING THERE There are direct train services from London Euston to Preston (2hr 10min) and Lancaster (2hr 25min). Change at Preston for Blackpool, Burnley and Blackburn, or at Lancaster for Morecambe. www.nationalrail.co.uk

Above: Blackpool's Tower Ballroom, designed by Frank Matcham, has England's most famous dance floor Opposite: The iconic Blackpool Tower

WHERE TO STAY Northcote Manor, at Langho in the Ribble Valley, offers sumptuous rooms and suites, as well as a famous Michelinstarred restaurant. For sea air and coastal views, step back in time at the Art Deco Midland Hotel on Morecambe’s waterfront. www.northcote.com; midlandhotelmorecambe.co.uk WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK The Ribble Valley is known as the food capital of the North and is full of fantastic places to eat, including the Freemasons gastropub at Wiswell and the 14th-century Inn at Whitewell. You can have afternoon tea in the sumptuous setting of the Tower Ballroom in Blackpool, or pop in to Notarianni’s, which has been selling its secret recipe ice cream to visitors since 1928. www.freemasonsatwiswell.com; www.innatwhitewell.com; www.theblackpooltower.com; notarianni.co.uk FURTHER INFORMATION www.visitlancashire.com; www.visitblackpool.com; www.visitribblevalley.co.uk

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CITY GUIDE

TOP 10 HEREFORD

Herefordshire's county town has a pretty riverside setting, bustling markets and the extraordinary Mappa Mundi, one of Britain’s finest medieval treasures WORDS KEITH DREW

he county town of Herefordshire has been shaped by its geography. The area that is now Hereford was first settled due to its proximity to a crossing over the River Wye – Hereford means ‘the ford used by the army’ – and then grew thanks to its position near the border between Anglo-Saxon Mercia and Wales. The ongoing battle for control of the region saw the town fortified first against the Welsh Princes and then further against the Danes, when Hereford become one of Alfred the Great’s burghs, a network of defensive settlements built to repel Viking attacks. A castle, reputedly constructed on a scale to rival Windsor, was added around 1050 in a further effort to secure the Welsh border, and the walls were extended for a final time www.britain-magazine.com

in the 12th century, after the Normans had moved the town's market further north. All that remains of the city’s defences today are a small section of the castle’s moat and a few separate stretches of city wall, while the town gates were dismantled in the late 18th century. Hereford’s markets are still going strong, though, drawing in shoppers from surrounding towns and villages and from across the Welsh and Worcestershire borders, while geography continues to play a key role in the city’s fortunes: most visitors to Hereford make a beeline for the Mappa Mundi, the town's pride and joy – the largest surviving medieval map of the world, etched in ink by a clergyman over 700 years ago. BRITAIN

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INDEPENDENT QUARTER The area around East Street and pedestrianised Church Street, which cuts across it halfway along, is known as Hereford’s Independent Quarter thanks to the number of interesting boutiques and one-off shops that line these laneways. You’ll find everything here from handmade jewellery and bespoke hats to beeswax candles and sustainable stationery. www.visitherefordshire.co.uk

HEREFORD CATHEDRAL

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VICTORIA BRIDGE This dainty wrought-iron suspension bridge provides a link across the River Wye between Castle Green and Bishop’s Meadow. It was built in 1897 to mark Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee – look out for the royal coat of arms that adorns the towers at each end.

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Hereford’s stout cathedral is best known for two unusual treasures: the unique Mappa Mundi, an ancient map created at the turn of the 14th century (see p.80); and the largest surviving chained library in the world, which holds the 8th-century Hereford Gospels and a rare copy of Henry III’s revision of Magna Carta in 1217. www.herefordcathedral.org

CITY GUIDE

MUSEUM OF CIDER Cider-making in Herefordshire dates back to medieval times, and this museum, housed in a creeper-covered former Bulmers cider factory, passionately documents it all. Uncover the story of the county’s favourite tipple before following one of the scenic ‘cider circuits’ in the Herefordshire countryside. www.cidermuseum.co.uk

BERRINGTON HALL The 18th-century Berrington Hall, a Neoclassical mansion located 16 miles north of Hereford, was designed by the architect Henry Holland, a favourite of the English nobility. The grand Staircase Hall is the pick of the set-piece main rooms. Outside, take a stroll through parkland created by Capability Brown, England’s most famous landscape designer. www.nationaltrust.org.uk

BROCKHAMPTON

WYE VALLEY Tourists have been visiting the Wye Valley since William Gilpin published the first British travel guidebook, Observations on the River Wye, about his journey from Ross-on-Wye to Chepstow. Hire a canoe from Canoe the Wye and follow in his footsteps, or walk up to Symonds Yat Rock for the Valley’s most memorable view. www.canoethewye.co.uk www.britain-magazine.com

Set on the edge of Bringsty Common, 17 miles northeast of Hereford, the estate at Brockhampton is focused around a medieval manor and – in a symbolic show of wealth – its gatehouse and (now ruined) chapel. The estate stretches for 1,700 acres across forested hills and is criss-crossed by some lovely way-marked walks. www.nationaltrust.org.uk BRITAIN

CITY GUIDE

WEIR GARDEN This peaceful National Trust property on the banks of the River Wye, five miles west of Hereford, is actually two gardens in one: an elegant walled garden, dating to the 1800s, and a wilder riverside garden that drops down to a rare 1920s Wye-side boathouse. www.nationaltrust.org.uk

BLACK AND WHITE HOUSE MUSEUM

MAPPA MUNDI Considered the most important medieval map in the world, the Mappa Mundi was drawn on a single sheet of vellum (calfskin) in 1300 and shows the world as it was then known, with Jerusalem at the centre. It is decorated with hundreds of drawings that depict Biblical stories, myths and legends, and towns a d cities, including Hereford itself. themappamundi.co.uk

It’s difficult to miss Hereford’s “Old House”. Built in 1621, this half-timbered residence is now surrounded by modern buildings in the heart of the city centre. With rare wall paintings, original fireplaces and 17th-century furniture, the museum’s rooms offer an intimate insight into everyday life in Jacobean England. www.herefordshire.gov.uk

GETTING THERE Regular trains run from London Paddington to Hereford (2hr 50min). The city centre is compact and easy to get around on foot. www.thetrainline.com

fireplaces and overlook the hotel’s waterside gardens. The restaurant uses produce from the owners’ own farm and is a top choice for a traditional afternoon tea. www.castlehse.co.uk

WHERE TO STAY Occupying a Grade II-listed Georgian villa, stylish Castle House enjoys a quiet spot in the city centre, just a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral. The immaculate rooms are named after local castles or historical figures, and some come with original

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK A classy conversion of a second-hand booksellers, airy, stripped-back The Bookshop does modern British cuisine very well, with an evening menu focused on (grass-fed) steak – highly appropriate for a county that prides itself on its beef

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– and an award-winning Sunday lunch. Rocket Kitchen Café, on pretty Church Street, uses a variety of local producers for their tasty flatbreads and pizzas, and homemade cakes and pastries. Head to The Barrels, an 18th-century coaching inn, for a pint of the local Wye Valley beer, best enjoyed alfresco in the flagstoned brewery yard. aruleoftum.com; rocketkitchen.co.uk; www.wyevalleybrewery.co.uk

FURTHER INFORMATION www.visitherefordshire.co.uk

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THE PLANNER

CHASE DISTILLERY Tucked away in the picturesque Herefordshire countryside, where our award-winning gins and vodkas were born and are still produced. This is also a visitor destination for Chase fans, offering the opportunity to go behind the scenes on a tutored tasting experience with our expert guides on a distillery tour. We offer distillery tours Tuesday – Saturday at a range of different times. Visit our website for availability and book your place

www.chasedistillery.co.uk

GREEN DRAGON HOTEL Following its extensive 2020 refurbishment, this iconic 83 room City Centre hotel now exudes tasteful glamour, welcoming residents and non-residents to the relaxing Garrick Lounge (think light lunches and afternoon teas), the vibrant Offa Cocktail Bar and the modern menu of The Hereford brasserie style restaurant, which is a showcase for Herefordshire’s ﬁnest produce. Look out for seasonal packages and special offers. It’s the perfect base from which to explore the county and of course Hereford City.

www.greendragonhotel.com

HEREFORD CATHEDRAL Wonder at the stunning architecture of the cathedral, its peaceful cloisters and the genius of its amazing Mappa Mundi and Chained Library. Marvel at the music of the cathedral’s world-leading choir and organ. Explore 6 acres of historic and beautiful riverside gardens during the summer with experienced gardeners, including the extensive Bishop’s Garden with its ﬁne specimen trees. Relax in the peaceful Chapter House Garden with tea and cake as you absorb the surroundings – a perfect escape from the world.

www.herefordcathedral.org

EXPERIENCE Herefordshire

with your official guide to the area

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LAST WORD

Rachel Trevor-Morgan

The milliner, who makes hats for the Queen, takes us through a typical day in the run-up to Royal Ascot, a highlight of the Summer Season 6am: Two or three times a week I start my day with a swim in the Serpentine in Hyde Park. It’s magical to be able to do this in the middle of London. Then I head home for breakfast before walking to work. My studio is based in beautiful, historic St James’s; I have been there 30 years and I love it. 8:30am: I arrive at work, although in our busy season it is earlier. I start my day in the workroom checking that my two milliners, Ann and Lucy, have everything they need. My personal assistant, Sophie, looks after everything that doesn’t involve making; my team are the best and vital to the success of the company. 10am: I’ll respond to clients’ queries regarding designs or arrange special collaborations. My mother is responsible for my love of hats; she always wore them to church on a Sunday. After an apprenticeship with Graham Smith when I was 19, I went on to work for Philip Somerville, another Royal Milliner, before leaving to set up my own label. I started making hats for Her Majesty The Queen in 2006, making my first for her 80th birthday service at St Paul’s Cathedral. I was granted my Royal Warrant in 2016 and it is definitely my greatest achievement. I believe a passion for my craft and hard graft has led me to where I am today.

4pm: I spend a lot of time in the workroom sewing when time allows. It’s a light and spacious room where we make all our hats, dying the straws and fabrics, blocking the hats, cutting and tooling silk for flowers, and curling beautiful feathers. I pride myself on my ability to mix dyes and achieve colours, but occasionally it can be a real challenge – I have known a colour to take several days to perfect. Handing over a finished hat and seeing the reaction of a client is so rewarding. There is something so satisfying about designing a collection, taking a client through the whole process of choosing the right hat, making, fitting and getting to the finished piece. 8pm: After work I head home to relax with my family. My husband Andy is a great cook and a good meal is at the heart of our evening. During the run up to Ascot, however, long hours mean eating at work and carrying on till late; it is both exhausting and exhilarating. racheltrevormorgan.com. Royal Ascot runs from 14 to 18 June; www.ascot.com

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11am: I go through the diary to make sure all our orders are in hand. Around Royal Ascot we are particularly busy. The race meeting goes on for five days and by the time we get there we are generally on our knees. We are never party to what the Queen will wear on what day so it is with eager anticipation that we wait to see what she has on her head and whether it will be one of ours! The pride that I feel at seeing Her Majesty in one of my designs never diminishes.

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