THROUGH THE GRAPEVINE

Grape BRITAIN BRITAIN

Expertise is being poured into English winemaking, with the results winning over the most discerning palates, writes Anne Cuthbertson

“A lthough the English wine industry is still quite small, relative to our continental cousins, it’s perfectly formed,” says Barbara Drew, master of wine and content o cer for Berry Bros & Rudd.

Once considered an eccentric pastime, winemaking in England has garnered international respect and, in recent years, developed into a full-fl edged industry. Our temperate climate, teamed with the correct soil type in southern counties, is seeing certain grape varieties fl ourish. By contrast, parts of the traditional winemaking world are watching climate change and extreme temperatures deplete these sensitive crops.

The resulting wines are pulling in the awards. “The country’s top vineyards can be found in Hampshire, Sussex and Kent, where limestone-dominated soils allow cool-climate varieties like chardonnay and pinot noir to thrive,” notes Drew. “A range of wines are produced, but England is already globally-renowned for its sparkling wines – which often trump top Champagne houses in blind tastings,” she says.

Sam Linter, managing director and head winemaker at Bolney Wine Estate agrees. “English wine wasn’t widely celebrated 50 years ago, so when my parents fi rst took on the challenge of planting vines in Sussex, they encountered sceptics who maintained it was impossible to produce quality English wine. How wrong they were! There are now more than 800 vineyards in the UK, and I’m so proud that we’ve been at the forefront of

this growth, using our pioneering techniques, innovation and a strong belief that English wine is deserving of global recognition.” The mild climate and sandstone soil has enabled the Bolney Estate to produce award-winning still and sparkling wines. Established in 1972 by Janet and Rodney Pratt, it’s one of the UK’s oldest vineyards. English sparkling wines giving the Champagne region a run for its money include: Hattingley Valley, Hambledon, Nyetimber, Balfour, “ENGLAND IS ALREADY GLOBALLYGusbourne, Camel Valley, Wiston Estate, Sugrue on RENOWNED FOR ITS the South Downs, SPARKLING WINES” Bride Valley in Dorset and Rathfi nny in East Sussex. Equally exciting are the still wines, which account for around a third of wine production. These use the pinot noir and chardonnay varieties, as well as the bacchus grape, which has grassy, elderfl ower notes. Premium still wines come from Bolney, Camel Valley in Cornwall, Danbury Ridge and New Hall in Essex, and Gusbourne, Balfour and Simpsons’ Estate in Kent. Rosé is long the preserve of Côtes de Provence. However, the 2021 folc rosé (£16.99) is the highest-ranking English version. Having decided to champion English rosé four years ago, founders Elisha Rai and Tom Cannon began production during the pandemic, before being awarded a Gold at the 2021 Independent English Wine Awards. It’s a blend of six grape varieties sourced from family-run vineyards in Kent, East and West Sussex, and Su olk: pinot noir, pinot meunier, chardonnay, pinot gris, bacchus and kerner. The grapes then travel to Canterbury to meet folc’s experienced winemakers. L

A FINE VINTAGE Opening

page: The UK's top vineyards can be found in southern counties Left: The 2021 folc rosé is the highestranking English still rosé Below: This year, Bolney Estate celebrates its 50th anniversary

Barbara Drew

RECOMMENDS

Berry Bros. & Rudd English Sparkling Rosé by Hambledon, Hampshire, England, £27.95

Made by one of England’s oldest wineries, this sparkling rosé is dominated by chardonnay – providing fresh apple and lemon fl avours, and a wonderful bright acidity. A small splash of pinot noir brings red fruit and a fl oral hint, plus a gorgeous deep hue. A sparkling wine that can easily compete with Champagne; ideal for celebrations of any size.

2021 Flint Vineyard, Bacchus, Norfolk, England, £18.95

Bacchus is a grape that's perfectly suited to the cool and, let’s face it, often quite damp climate in the UK. Similar to sauvignon blanc, it has plenty of grapefruit, green apple and gooseberry aromas, and a wonderful zesty acidity. A bright and refreshing wine, ideal with salads, goat’s cheese and fi sh dishes.

2018 Danbury Ridge Wine Estate, Pinot Noir, Essex, England, £34

English red wines are still relatively rare, requiring a touch more sunshine than the white wines to ripen. This is a beautiful example, though: a light-bodied pinot noir full of vibrant strawberry and red cherry fruit, and a hint of spice.