ATTRACTIONS | CULTURE | HISTORY | HERITAGE | PLACES TO STAY
2018 GUIDE
inspiring ideas
WIN a trip to Blenheim Palace
180 pages to plan your perfect holiday
OLD HAUNTS
Ghostly tales from our spookiest cities
BIRD’S EYE VIEWS Landmarks like you’ve never seen them
Live like a
A TASTE OF BRITAIN Afternoon teas and whisky tours
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Inside Hever Castle and Henry VIII’s finest homes
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2018 GUIDE
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COVER IMAGE: HEVER CASTLE © IAN DAGNALL / ALAMY. PHOTOS © IONUT DAVID/ALAMY/INCAMERASTOCK
WELCOME Welcome to the BRITAIN 2018 Guide, our annual look at the most inspiring attractions, heritage sites and destinations scattered across our beautiful shores. Digging into our history and exploring our landscape, we go on a Tudor trail of stately homes in the heart of England, uncover the legends of Snowdonia and hone in on coastal wildlife. This year also sees the bicentenary of the birth of one of our much loved novelists, Emily Brontë, of Wuthering Heights fame, providing us with an excuse to highlight her Yorkshire roots – not that we need one. Laura Silverman, Deputy Editor
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We have our rich history and romantic sensibilities to thank for the tales of eerie encounters lurking in Britain’s historic cities. Here, we reveal some of spookiest goings-on
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See the sights like never before aboard one of these sky-high attractions from soaring over the Lake District in a hot-air balloon to riding in a helicopter over London BRITAIN | THE 2018 GUIDE
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2018 GUIDE
CONTENTS
www.britain-magazine.com The 2018 BRITAIN Guide is published by the makers of BRITAIN magazine: The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ Tel: 020 7349 3700 Fax: 020 7901 3701 Email: info@britain-magazine.com
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Our pick of the best tours, shows, exhibitions, events and more from around Britain in 2018
34 LONDON
Editor Sally Coffey Deputy Editor Laura Silverman Art Editor Clare White
Discover the story behind Tower Bridge – and find out how it almost ended up in the United States
Head of Market James Davis Senior Sales Executive: Paul Beckham Senior Sales Executive: James Davenport Sales Executive Samuel Sud
40 SOUTHWEST ENGLAND
Taking traditional afternoon tea is a must. We pick some of the most tempting cafes in the Cotswolds
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51 COMPETITION
Win a day out at historic Blenheim Palace, with an overnight stay at the charming Feathers Hotel
52 SOUTHEAST ENGLAND
Managing Director Paul Dobson Deputy Managing Director Steve Ross Publisher Steve Pill Finance Director Vicki Gavin Head of Media James Dobson Circulation Manager Daniel Webb Printed in England by William Gibbons Ltd Production All Points Media
60 HEART OF ENGLAND
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Visit Hever Castle, the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, and roam its acres of stunning gardens From Grimsthorpe Castle to Packwood House, we explore the stately homes with ties to Henry VIII Suffolk boasts some of the most beautifully preserved Tudor towns. We take you to some of the best
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On the 250th anniversary since his maiden voyage, we explore the Yorkshire towns that shaped Captain Cook
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We uncover the legends of Snowdonia, with its old abbeys and castles, and its mountains and valleys
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Lewis and Harris is Scotland’s largest island and home to some of the most remote settlements in Britain
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Take a day trip from Belfast and explore the landscape from the Giant’s Causeway to the Mourne Mountains
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Once the centre of Victorian artistic pursuits, the town of Freshwater on the Isle of Wight is having a moment
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The best in British brands, from Twinings tea to Plymouth gin. Plus, our pick of the restaurant scene
140 BRITISH DAYS OUT
Whichever part of Britain you choose to visit next, use our regional directory to plan your trip
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HISTORIC CITIES
Treasurer's House, York Opposite page: Edinburgh is full of haunted spots
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HISTORIC CITIES
Britain’s most HAUNTED CITIES We have our rich history and romantic sensibilities to thank for the tales of spooky encounters lurking in Britain's historic cities. Here, we look at some of the spookiest stories across the country WORDS ADRIAN MOURBY
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HISTORIC CITIES
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f all the ancient cities of Britain, York seems to be the most haunted. Visitors can join three different ghostly walking tours of the centre and even board the Ghost Bus, a vintage London Routemaster painted black, with a commentary from its driver. Very few historic buildings in the city lack a ghost. At York Minster, young Dean Gale, a clergyman who died
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in 1702, is occasionally spotted in the pews listening to sermons. At the York Museum in Tower Street, a man in Edwardian dress sometimes paces up and down at night (but he will disappear when approached). Meanwhile, at The Golden Fleece, a former coaching inn and York’s most haunted public house, there are said to be five spirits in residence including Lady Alice Peckett, whose husband was Mayor of York in the 18th century, and One-Eyed Jack, who sports a 16th-century frock coat and pistol. Strangest of all, at the Treasurer’s House in Minster Yard, people working in the basement have occasionally seen a cohort of marching Roman soldiers. They are visible only from the knees up, but this is because the Roman road that runs under Minster Yard is 15 inches below the current level of the cellar floor. Chester, on the Welsh border, comes a close second when it comes to haunted cities. A medieval monk sometimes wanders through the cathedral pews, and a vengeful ghost called Jenny, who drowned in the waters of the River Dee many years ago, still lurks beneath the water, ready to grab the ankle of any passing man and drag him down to a watery grave. Another unhappy woman haunts the
PHOTOS: © NATIONAL TRUST/CHRIS LACEY/CHRIS DORNEY/THE FOTO FACTORY/CLEARVIEW/ANN KIMMEL/ALAMY
The Golden Fleece, York Below: A sign at the entrance to the pub
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HISTORIC CITIES
Soldiers are said to march through the basement of the Treasurer’s House, York www.britain-magazine.com
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Bear & Billet in Lower Bridge Street. Locked in her room, the chambermaid starved to death. Today, her ghost sometimes moves furniture around, but she only ever manifests herself to men. There are quite a lot of mistreated chambermaids and abandoned fiancées haunting Chester, but the Sofa Workshop in Watergate Street – housed in a 600-year-old building – is haunted by a young boy. In the 18th century, boys were employed here to clean the powdered wigs of gentlemen. This was done with arsenic, which is said to have killed him. Today, staff claim they can hear the child sobbing and often feel as if they are being watched. Also in Watergate Street, half-timbered Stanley Palace is home to three ghosts. Sometime a giggling child is heard; at other times people have seen a white-hooded Dominican friar and a woman in 17th-century clothes. Occasionally, when she doesn’t appear, her clogs can be heard walking across the wooden floorboards. Not surprisingly, a city as old as Oxford has a fair number of ghosts too, including Colonel Francis Windebank who, during the English Civil War, was shot by a Royalist firing
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PHOTOS: © MULROONEY OXFORD UK/CHRIS HOWES/WILD PLACES PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY
HISTORIC CITIES
Mistreated chambermaids and abandoned fiancées haunt Chester Left: St John's College, Oxford www.britain-magazine.com
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squad for having surrendered his post. The execution took place in 1645 on Dead Man’s Walk just behind Merton College. On a dark night the colonel can be found there in the company of other Oxford apparitions as in medieval times Dead Man’s Walk was the route that Jewish funerals took out of the city. Another Royalist executed in 1645 was Archbishop William Laud, who was beheaded in London by Parliament but buried in St John’s College, his alma mater. Students working late at night in the college library have claimed to have seen Laud, candle in hand, kicking his head along the library floor like a football. Just outside Oxford, Rosamund the Fair, a former mistress of King Henry II, haunts the ancient Trout pub – often featured in Inspector Morse. Rosamund was living as a nun in Godstow Priory on the other side of the Thames from The Trout Inn when Henry’s queen, Eleanor of Aquitaine, tracked her down. Eleanor forced Rosamund to drink poison and today her sad ghost is sometimes seen as a shadowy figure on the first floor of the pub. Because many of Britain’s public houses have such long
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PHOTOS: © DYLAN GARCIA/PHOTO 12/ALEX SEGRE/TIM GAINEY/ALAMY
Merton College, Oxford Below: All Souls, Oxford
HISTORIC CITIES Left: The Spaniards Inn, Hampstead Below: Body snatchers raid a cemetery
histories it’s not surprising that for many the word ‘spirits’ has a double meaning, particularly in London. The Grenadier in Belgravia was once an officers’ club. Here, in the early 19th century, a poor soldier called Cedric was clubbed to death by fellow officers when he was unable to pay his gambling debts. Today, Cedric’s ghost moves chairs around the pub and breaks the odd glass, but is not considered malign. In fact, he is so popular that drinkers attach pound notes, euros, and dollar bills to the pub ceiling to pay off poor Cedric’s debt. On Hampstead Heath, The Spaniards Inn is a 16th-century pub haunted by a Spanish traveller who died in a duel over a woman he loved, while a woman in white haunts the garden – female ghosts are often in white or grey. Meanwhile, in Spitalfields in London’s East End, there is a room at the top of The Ten Bells pub that no one likes to enter. The ghost of George Roberts, the pub landlord in Victorian times often appears here. As he was murdered with an axe the apparition can be quite gruesome. Near St Bartholomew’s Hospital, The Rising Sun pub was once a dangerous place to drink as, in the 19th century, www.britain-magazine.com
body snatchers use to spike drinks of the unwary, murder their victims and sell the bodies for medical research at the hospital. None of the victims has reappeared to demand vengeance, but a pair of barmaids living above the pub have been terrorised by a poltergeist that insisted on removing the sheet covering them. In Edinburgh, the 19th-century grave robbers Burke and Hare provided a similar medical service, digging up dead bodies for dissection. Today, it is believed that they haunt Niddry Street vaults off the Royal Mile. It was in these catacombs that the pair hid the corpses they would sell for research. There is much poltergeist activity in the vaults, particularly in one room, which lies in perpetual darkness because any light bulb installed instantly explodes. A number of electricians have failed to understand or solve the problem. Beneath the forbidding shadow of Edinburgh Castle, there are many haunted houses. Deacon Brodie, the respectable locksmith who lived a double life and inspired Robert Louis Stevenson to write Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, was eventually hanged in 1788, but many people have attested to seeing BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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Brodie’s ghost walking along Brodie’s Close (where he used to live) in the company of a demonic, fire-breathing horse. Similarly, the Quaker Meeting House on Victoria Terrace is frequented by a 17th-century figure who once lived there. His name was Major Thomas Weir and he was a soldier – and devil worshipper. He was executed in 1670, but still haunts his old hangouts. In the castle itself, visitors have reported encountering the ghosts of prisoners from Britain’s French and American wars who never returned home. There’s also a phantom piper and a headless drummer, who are noisy at night. Of course, it’s impossible to say how much of this is true, but a good ghost always brings in visitors, from the sceptical who wish to prove it all nonsense to those who just want to be frightened witless. The question is: which one are you? To find out more about the spooky history of some of Britain's best-loved buildings, visit www.britain-magazine.com
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PHOTOS: © FRANCISCO MARTINEZ/ALAMY/RICHARD MASCHMEYER
Left: Edinburgh Castle Below: Deacon Brodie's Tavern, Edinburgh
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EXPLORE BRITAIN
BIRD’S EYE BRITAIN
See the sights like never before aboard one of these sky-high attractions WORDS NEIL JONES
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EXPLORE BRITAIN
Thirlmere, a reservoir in the Lake District, provides the perfect escape www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTO: © JASON GEEVES
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here are few more exhilarating experiences than seeing Britain from above, viewing all the colourful pieces of the landscape fall into place. Over the next few pages we highlight some of our favourite ones, enabling you to see the country as never before. We preview a trip in an aerial gondola in the Scottish Highlands and go hot air ballooning over the Lake District. We take a helicopter ride over London, offering a unique view of the capital’s landmarks from St Paul’s Cathedral to the Shard, and chug up Wales’s highest mountin on a charming vintage train. From Ben Nevis to Brighton, each location proves more dazzling than the one before. We hope you will agree that each location offers an inspiring – and, dare we say, spectacular – perspective. Do send us your pictures.
GLIDE ABOVE THE LAKE DISTRICT Here’s your chance to wander “lonely as a cloud / That floats on high o’er vales and hills”, though perhaps not quite as Lakeland poet William Wordsworth imagined. Flying over the Lake District by hot air balloon really does bring home the thrilling scale and serene beauty of mountain, fell and glacial lake scenery. With Virgin Balloon Flights, you can launch morning or evening from a site near Lake Windermere, England’s largest natural lake and a setting for Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons adventures. Depending on wind direction, you then waft over Windermere or drift towards Whitbarrow National Nature Reserve, or the pretty parish of Cartmel Fell and the winding River Winster. The gorgeous green and blue map below will give you plenty of ideas for walks back on solid ground – after a Champagne toast on landing, of course. www.virginballoonflights.co.uk
The Palace of Westminster sits at the heart of London Above left: The Lake District has inspired some of Britain's greatest poets Left: British Airways i360 offers breathtaking views over Brighton seafront
PHOTOS: © BLEND IMAGES/AL AMY/BRITISH AIRWAYS/ VIRGIN BALLOON FLIGHTS
PEER AT BRIGHTON BEACH Just as the (now closed) West Pier on Brighton beach invited Victorian society to “walk on water”, so the British Airways i360 beside it acts as a vertical pier inviting modern visitors to “walk on air”. Designed by the same creators as the Coca-Cola London Eye and opened in 2016, it is the world’s tallest moving observation tower, allowing you to glide in a futuristic glass pod up to 138 metres of its overall 162-metre height. In-flight crew point out landmarks during your 25-minute trip (you can also download a free app) and there’s a Sky Bar serving local Nyetimber sparkling wine to help you drink in the 360-degree views, including King George IV’s exotic Royal Pavilion; the Palace Pier, and, weather permitting, as far as the Isle of Wight.
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ZOOM OVER THE CAPITAL For a real treat why not soar high above the crowds with The London Helicopter, seeing the city’s landmarks just like a bird on the wing. Departing from Battersea Heliport, trips vary from 12 to 30 minutes and take in central London, sweep along the River Thames or follow a route that views iconic landmarks from stately Syon Park and House to Tower Bridge and the Thames Barrier. Have your camera ready for aerial perspectives on the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Royal Albert Hall, Hyde Park and Buckingham Palace, as well as St Paul’s Cathedral, the Shard and the Tower of London. All the pieces of London’s colourful jigsaw fall into place before your very eyes. www.thelondonhelicopter.com BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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VIEW BEN NEVIS FROM A GONDOLA Ben Nevis – from the Gaelic for ‘mountain with its head in the clouds’ or ‘venomous mountain’ – is Britain’s highest peak at 1,345 metres. And there’s no more genteel way to admire its giant proportions than from a mountain gondola as it rises up to 650 metres on the slopes of nearby Aonach Mor. Sit back for 15 minutes and let the scenery of the wildly romantic Scottish Highlands, Great Glen and, on clear days, the Inner Hebrides open up with breathtaking splendour. Built for skiers, Britain’s only mountain gondola also offers other high-level adventures. Two walking trails from the Gondola Top Station lead to further spectacular viewpoints and, in summer, you can take the Scenic Chairlift to gaze over the Leanachan Forest and Great Glen. Alternatively, you could just relax in the Snowgoose Restaurant & Bar, looking across Lochaber. www.nevisrange.co.uk/mountain-gondola
KEEP AN EYE ON LONDON’S SKYLINE Not only does the Coca-Cola London Eye on the banks of the River Thames offer superb views of the capital but it also stands as an iconic landmark on the skyline in its own right alongside the likes of Big Ben and St Paul’s Cathedral. Designed by Marks Barfield Architects, it is the world’s largest cantilevered observation wheel at 135 metres tall and has been voted the UK’s most romantic location, hosting more than 5,000 marriage proposals. A gentle 30-minute rotation high above the bustle of London’s streets is wonderfully therapeutic: peering down on the Gothic towers of the Palace of Westminster, watching boats bobbing on the River Thames, suddenly seeing London’s scattered landmarks in perspective – and distant Windsor Castle if you are lucky. Download the London Eye Guide app for free to have lots of fascinating facts about landmarks revealed at the tap of a finger, creating your own personal London Planner for explorations back at street level. www.londoneye.com
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Ben Nevis is the highest peak in the UK Right: Spinnaker Tower overlooks Portsmouth Harbour and beyond Below: The London Eye is perfectly placed to enjoy the sights of the capital
A toe-tingling Sky Walk across a glass floor, seeing harbour activity 100 metres directly below you, is just one of the memorable (if slightly unnerving) experiences of a visit to Portsmouth’s Emirates Spinnaker Tower. The 170 metre-tall gleaming white icon of the Renaissance of Portsmouth Harbour project offers three view decks over the historic maritime city, coast and seascapes (the Sky Walk is on the first deck), while i-VIEW touch screens reveal the stories behind the panoramas. The South Downs, Southsea Castle, the site in the Solent where King Henry VIII’s favourite warship Mary Rose sank in 1545 can all be spotted, as well as the Old Portsmouth that Nelson knew when he departed in 1805 to join HMS Victory (now berthed in the Historic Dockyard). Indulge in a traditional High Tea – literally – in The Clouds café and bar at 105 metres; feel the sea breezes at 110 metres in the Sky Garden open to the elements; track shipping movements with the Shipfinder. www.spinnakertower.co.uk BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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PHOTOS: © KEITH FERGUS/AL AMY/COCA-COL A LONDON EYE/ STEFAN AND SAR A VENTER
ONE FOR SEA-LOVERS...
EXPLORE BRITAIN
STEAM UP MOUNT SNOWDON
PHOTOS: © MARK HAWKINS/AL AMY
Experience travel Victorian style on a one-hour, four-mile trip by vintage train on the Snowdon Mountain Railway, which climbs from Llanberis up Wales’s highest mountain. Exhilarating views from the top reach right across the rugged Snowdonia National Park as far as the sea. Built in 1896 for intrepid tourists keen on grand tours and picturesque scenery, the rack-and-pinion railway is a true feat of Victorian engineering, with original steam (or diesel) locomotives pushing heritage carriages up a 1-in-7 gradient to the summit visitor centre at 1,085-metres. Here you can listen to historic tales told by the ‘whispering windows’, enjoy a warming oggie (Welsh pasty) and panoramic vistas over Snowdonia – in Welsh, Eryri, Land of the Eagles. Welsh princes once held council amid the mountains, and eerie ruins hint at long-lost communities, while the giant Rhita, vanquished by King Arthur, is said to be buried here. www.snowdonrailway.co.uk
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Visit the heart of beautiful Georgian Bath and step into history with a visit to the Roman Baths, one of the finest spas of the ancient world. See the Roman Baths transformed by torchlight during our late night opening from 16 June to 31 August. Only 90 minutes from London Paddington Book online at www.romanbaths.co.uk
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The DIARY
Stately Homes
Chatsworth unveiled We’re all familiar with a little spring cleaning, but at Chatsworth House, the team have been doing more than most. The Derbyshire stately home, which stood in for Mr Darcy’s residence of Pemberley in the film adaptation of Pride & Prejudice with Keira Knightley, has recently unveiled the culmination of a
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decade of restoration and conservation work. Not only have cornices been dusted down and furniture polished in the usual deep clean; but the belvedere turrets have also been rebuilt, ornate details have been carved in the stonework and vast blocks have been replaced in the walls. Chatsworth Renewed: The House Past,
Present and Future, on until 21 October, will reveal previously forgotten stories and features of the estate. You will be able to climb the belvedere to see the renovated roof, find out what’s under the floor in the Chapel Corridor and admire the newly restored tapestries. www.chatsworth.org www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: © SIMON WATKINSON/NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM
From stunning stately homes to our most famous wordsmiths, through the best tours, exhibitions and places to stay, here are some of the top ways to spend 2018
BEST OF BRTAIN
Exhibition
Titanic remembered A new exhibition in Cornwall examines the myths and controversies surrounding one of Britain’s most momentous events. Running until 7 January 2019, Titanic Stories at the National Maritime Museum presents rare and never-before-seen artefacts telling the stories of some of the survivors, victims and their descendants, as well as dispelling some of the assumptions about the maritime disaster. The exhibition focuses on the rapid commercialisation of the sinking – souvenir postcards were produced just days later and the first film hit the cinemas the next month – which resulted in a flurry of ‘fake news’. Guest co-curator Eric Kentley said: “Curator Claes-Göran Wetterholm and I met on the 1994 expedition to the Titanic wreck site, retrieving artefacts from the seabed, two and a half miles underwater. “What fascinates us both is how the memory of this ship – and this ship alone – has become so engrained in our culture, how myths have been built around it, and how each generation retells the story.” www.nmmc.co.uk/titanic-stories
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BEST OF BRITAIN
Heritage
Keeping the faith The triforium of Westminster Abbey, 70ft above the floor, has been hidden away for more than 700 years. In June, it finally opens to the public. The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries will display more than 300 objects telling the story of the grand Gothic church as the setting for every Coronation since that of William the Conqueror in 1066 and the venue for a mere 16 royal weddings. Look out for Queen Mary II’s Coronation Chair; the Liber Regalis (Latin for ‘Royal Book’) – a 14th-century illuminated manuscript with guidance on how to conduct a coronation (should you ever need to) and the marriage licence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. www.westminster-abbey.org
Stay
Rooms with a view PHOTOS: © ALAN WILLIAMS/MR ZIYU QIU/HAYES DAVIDSON/CHRIS D'AGORNE
This summer, the Devon hotel Gara Rock will reopen following a huge renovation, which has seen it turned into a breathtaking coastal retreat. Located near the popular resort town of Salcombe, Gara Rock will have six seaview apartments (perfect for enjoying sundowners) and five new loft suites, alongside five existing cottages and 12 apartments. In the 19th century, the site of Gara Rock was home to coastguards who lived in a collection of cottages and kept a watchful eye out for smugglers. The new-look retreat, will have a restaurant serving British cuisine, a private cinema room, an indoor and an outdoor clifftop heated pool, and a beach. www.gararock.com
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www.britain-magazine.com
BEST OF BRTAIN
Exhibition
Terracotta Army marches on Until 28 October 2018, the city of Liverpool plays host to one of the most remarkable manmade collections in the world. China’s First Emperor and the Terracotta Warriors at the city’s World Museum features the 2,000-year-old life-sized Terracotta Army, which proudly protected the tomb of China’s First Emperor Qin Shi Huang in secret until a chance discovery in 1974. The exhibition features dozens of artefacts that have yet to go on display in Britain – many of which are on loan from the Shaanxi Province of China – and which shed insight into the Emperor’s obsession with immortality and how he planned meticulously for the afterlife. www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
Anniversary
RAF 100 The RAF museum’s London home has had an impressive makeover to celebrate this year’s centenary of the Royal Air Force. The rich history of the RAF extends from early aviation pioneers and explorers to the peacekeepers and pioneers of today. This June, the newly renovated site will reopen, with outdoor picnic areas, a restaurant and new displays. Two galleries will explore the first 100 years of the RAF and its future. A third exhibition will focus on the role of the RAF from the Falklands conflict of the early Eighties to its current work. More than 500 previously unseen objects, from logbooks to lucky charms, will be on display. The museum is also launching RAF Stories, a digital project featuring personal accounts of those who have shared or known members of the RAF. Look out for RAF 100 activities throughout the country, with the RAF Baton Relay team arriving at Horse Guards Parade on 10 July. www.rafmuseum.org.uk
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BEST OF BRITAIN
Culture
Best for the Bard Here’s a challenge: how many attractions can you visit in one, two or three days? The new Shakespeare’s England Explorer Pass gives you free or discounted entry into 19 Warwickshire attractions – not, of course, that you must visit all of them. Your golden ticket applies to a wealth of Bard-related sites, including Shakespeare’s Birthplace, Shakespeare’s New Place, Hall’s Croft, Anne Hathaway’s Cottage (pictured) and the Royal Shakespeare Company’s The Play’s the Thing exhibition. And when you’re Shakepeared out, you can head to Warwick Castle, Radley Hall or Kenilworth Castle. It will also give you discounts at shops, hotels and restaurants. An adult pass costs £49 for one day, £65 for two days and £75 for three days. www.shakespeares-england.co.uk
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BEST OF BRTAIN
Culture
Calling all Brontë fans If 2016 was the year of Charlotte Brontë and 2017 was the year of her brother Branwell, then 2018 is the year of her sister Emily. As well as her poems, Emily is known for her only novel, Wuthering Heights – a tale of love and revenge on the Yorkshire Moors. The tallest of the Brontë sisters, Emily loved animals, but had a bit of a temper. Anniversary events, before and after her birthday on 30 July, will include an exploration of Emily’s love of nature. Sister Anne’s bicentenary will be celebrated in 2020 and the arrival of Rev. Patrick Brontë, the writers’ father, in Haworth will be celebrated in 2019. See page 80 for more about Brontë country.
PHOTOS: © VISITBRITAIN/LEEBEEL /IANDAGNALL COMPUTING/ALAMY
www.bronte.org.uk
Travel
Flights of fancy If you are travelling to the UK from the US, then take advantage of some of the new flight routes for 2018. From May, British Airways will fly directly between London Heathrow and Nashville, making it the only airline to fly directly from the capital of Tennessee to Europe. British Airways will also run three flights a week to London Gatwick from Las Vegas. United Airlines now offers daily flights on its nonstop service between Denver and Heathrow between late March and late October. Primera Air has just launched a daily service to London Stansted from New York and will also operate direct flights from Boston to London Stansted and Birmingham four times a week. Meanwhile, Thomas Cook Airlines is launching a new route from Seattle to Manchester on 27 May.
British Explorers
Yorkshire celebrates The Captain Cook Festival (6-8 July 2018) in the seaside town of Whitby will celebrate the 250th anniversary of the first voyage of one of Britain’s most accomplished explorers, Captain James Cook. Though Cook left from Plymouth, Devon, on his inaugural journey across the Pacific Ocean, it was in Whitby that he learned his trade as a seaman and it www.britain-magazine.com
was here that his ship, HMS Endeavour, was built. Central to festivities over the summer weekend will be two tall ships, which will be docked in Whitby’s historic harbour and free to board, giving a sense of what life was like on the high seas in the 18th century. Visitors can also test their sea legs aboard the Bark Endeavour Whitby, a small-scale
replica of Cook’s ship, which will be making coastal trips from Whitby to Sandsend. Events will take place along the Yorkshire coast throughout 2018, while the exhibition Whitby in the Time of Cook, the Making of a Great Seaman runs until 4 November. See page 82 for our feature on Captain Cook. www.discoveryorkshirecoast.com BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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BEST OF BRITAIN
Travel
Wild ways Trundle through meadows of flowers and past swathes of colourful crops on new circular walking paths, created and managed by the National Trust. The Vile, near Rhossili in Wales, is one of the last medieval strip field farming systems in Britain, where land is still farmed using methods of old. The word ‘vile’ is also an ancient one – it meant ‘field’ in old Gower. Routes offer spectacular views over the sandy Rhossili Bay (voted Wales’ Beast Beach 2018 in the TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards), along hilltop ridges, and across to Worm’s Head (a striking limestone rock). Look out for grey seals on the beaches, while choughs and peregrine falcons soar overhead.
Culture
Picture our past Travel back in time to experience an age where photography was in its infancy with a new exhibition, Victorian Giants: The Birth of Art Photography. Running at the Millennium Gallery in Sheffield from 30 June to 23 September 2018, the exhibition, curated by Phillip Prodger, includes pictures chosen by its patron, the Duchess of Cambridge. Her Royal Highness has written a foreword to the catalogue in which she discusses her interest in 19th-century photography and explains that photographs of children, which feature predominantly within the exhibition, are of particular interest to her. The exhibition is accompanied by a full-colour illustrated book by the curator. www.npg.org.uk
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PHOTOS: ©NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOHN MILLER /NATIONAL PORTR AIT GALLERY LONDON
www.nationaltrust.org.uk
‘TRULY A NIGHT TO REMEMBER’ EVERYTHING THEATRE
RADISSON BLU EDWARDIAN, BE PART OF THE SHOW! BLOOMSBURY STREET HOTEL TORQUAYSUITETHEATRE.COM (+44) 0845 154 4145 TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD
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London
Take time to take it in
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PHOTO: © NTPL/ PHOTO: © TIM GRAHAM/ROBERT HARDING DAVID SELLMAN
Londoners get a bad press. We don’t talk to each other, we’re always too much in a hurry. But while it’s true that there are certain times to avoid making small talk (such as rush hour), catch us on the late-night Tube, or better still in the pub, and you’ll find we are as friendly as they come. We might live in this big, bustling city, but like most people we like to hear ourselves think. Look for us in parks, having a stroll around a market on a Saturday morning, taking in an exhibition at a world-class gallery, or simply people-watching on the Southbank and you’ll see a different side to us: warm, relaxed and with time to spare. This is where visitors would do well to follow our lead: don’t rush from one sight to another – it’s not about ticking locations off a list but absorbing the atmosphere everywhere you go. Look around as you walk about and you’ll spot London legends such as the Chelsea Pensioners (pictured) running errands, or see London icons (red buses, telephone boxes and Tube signs) at every corner. Just don’t linger at the bottom of escalators. It's a crime worse than treason.
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LONDON
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LONDON
from
A VIEW THE BRIDGE Tower Bridge is an iconic part of the London cityscape – and has come to represent the capital WORDS LAURA SILVERMAN
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The Olympic rings hang from Tower Bridge during London 2012
T
ower Bridge is such a symbol of London that an American oil baron apparently thought he was buying it in 1967 when he snapped up London Bridge, half a mile upstream. Robert McCulloch was building a new city in the Arizonian desert. What more could he want than a Gothic-style feat of Victorian engineering? McCulloch later denied he had mixed up the bridges, but the myth captures an important truth: think of a bridge in London and Tower Bridge springs to mind. The bridge was built in the late 19th century to ease pressure on the capital’s infrastructure. London had become the world’s biggest city, with a population of 6.5 million. The design was the result of a competition in 1876 to create a Thames crossing that didn’t obstruct sailing ships. It was won by architect Sir Horace Jones, and developed with the help of engineer John Wolf Barry. Work started in 1886 and took eight years. The cost was huge: £1,184,000 back then – the equivalent of £122 million today. Five constructors were involved and 432 labourers. Two piers were plunged into the river to support the structure, while more than 11,000 tons of steel provided the frame for the towers and walkways. The bridge was finished with Cornish granite and Portland stone. About 31,000,000 bricks were used and 22,000 litres of paint. The Gothic look, created by George D Stevenson, complemented the Tower of London, on the north bank. The opening, on 30 June 1894, was a grand affair. The Prince of Wales (the future King Edward VII) and his wife, Alexandra of Denmark, cut the ribbon. Celebratory canons were fired from the Tower of London. Not everyone loved
it, particularly architectural experts: HH Statham wrote in 1916 that it represented “the vice of tawdriness and pretentiousness”; F Brangwyn and WS Sparrow’s 1920 Book of Bridges described it as “absurd”. But within decades, the bridge had come to symbolise the capital. The public warmed to its appearance, while its survival of the Blitz represented the strength of the city. The bridge even played a starring role in the London 2012 Olympic Games. Not only were a set of Olympic rings suspended from its centre, footballer and national treasure David Beckham also drove a speedboat underneath it during the Opening Ceremony. On a regular visit, Beckham sightings are rare. But the historic Grade I listed construction has its own appeal. A combined bascule and suspension bridge, it consists of two 214-foot high towers connected by a pair of walkways. The central span between the towers measures 200 feet and is split into two bascules, which can be raised to an angle of 86 degrees. Since 2010, the bridge has been a stylish blue and white. Earlier visitors may remember it as red, white and blue after it was painted (from the original brown) to celebrate the Queen’s Silver Jubilee in 1977. The classic London sight is to watch the bridge being raised and lowered. Twice daily times can be found on the Tower Bridge website. Boaters can also request additional lifts. The bascules open about 850 times a year. The first year, the bridge opened 6,194 times, an average of 17 times a day. River traffic takes priority as former US President Bill Clinton discovered on his visit to the capital in May 1997. Returning from a lunch with Prime Minister Tony Blair, President Clinton arrived at the bridge just as it was opening. His motorcade was duly split up. Inside, you can see the steam engines that once operated the bridge. Until 1976, the bascules were driven by hydraulic power. Today they are powered by oil and electricity. You can also cross the high walkways, which are now covered and fitted partly with a glass floor, providing a unique view of London from 42 metres above the Thames. Or, of course, you can join the 40,000 drivers, cyclists and pedestrians who cross the bridge every day. Even those who do so regularly can be caught glimpsing up at the turrets or gazing at the stonework and breathing a sigh of relief that Robert McCulloch took London Bridge for Arizona and that Tower Bridge has remained.
The public warmed to its appearance and its survival of the Blitz represented the strength of the city
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PHOTOS: © TRAVEL PIC COLLECTION/AWL IMAGES LTD/JUSTIN KASE ZSIXZ/ALAMY
LONDON
London Bridge Hotel has everything you need in a London hotel, relaxed yet comfortable and contemporary accommodation; a great location and transport links and the buzz of the city just outside the door. Situated in the heart of the historic and thriving Borough of Southwark, London Bridge Hotel provides an excellent base from which to enjoy all the attractions of the capital, The Shard, the newly regenerated London Bridge Quarter, Borough Market and the River Thames. Whilst here you must pay a visit to Quarter Bar & Lounge, the hotel’s bar which offers a chic design with a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere. Choose a glamorous cocktail from our vast menu, or if hunger beckons why not try one of our sharing platters and other tasty treats.
8/18 London Bridge Street
l
London
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SE1 9SG
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7855 2200 Email: reservations@londonbridgehotel.com www.londonbridgehotel.com
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Southwest England Coastal inspiration
PHOTO: © VISIT BRITAIN/DAVID NOTON
With the longest coastline in England, the South West offers a wealth of quaint fishing towns and seaside resorts. Even its cities, from Salisbury in Wiltshire (pictured) to Truro in Cornwall are picturesque. The area, which covers Gloucestershire, Bristol, Wiltshire, Somerset, Dorset, Devon, Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly, offers an incredible four World Heritage Sites, including the Jurassic Coast and Stonehenge, as well as two national parks – Exmoor and Dartmoor (famed for its roaming Dartmoor ponies). Londoners especially like to flock to Cornwall for the summer, waking up the sleepy towns and villages. Long walks along the beach, ice cream in hand, are a must. A haven for foodies, the region boasts fresh crab, pasties, cider and cream teas. Ideally, you will want to sample cream tea in both Devon and Cornwall to better assess the tastiness of the scones – Devonshire folk traditionally put the cream before the jam; the Cornish spread their jam first, before heaping cream on top. The drama of the coastline has also inspired some of England's most popular writers and their work. Agatha Christie had a home in Devon; Daphne du Maurier spent much of her time in Cornwall.
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SOUTHWEST ENGLAND
TEA in the COTSWOLDS WORDS SALLY COFFEY
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fternoon tea is one of those peculiar traditions for which us Brits are known the world over. Custom dictates that it includes finger sandwiches (with staple fillings such as cucumber, coronation chicken, and smoked salmon and cream cheese), scones, cakes and – of course – a pot of our national drink: tea. Originating in the Victorian era as a way of filling the long wait between lunch and dinner (an idea sparked by Anna Maria Russell, the 7th Duchess of Bedford and a friend of Queen Victoria), afternoon tea has been a British institution ever since.
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As author Henry James once said: “There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea.” However, over the years the custom has shifted from being a daily event for many, to an occasional treat. Today there is no shortage of quaint tea shops and grand hotels offering their take on the meal for those of us who don’t have time – or staff – to make fresh scones and delicate cakes at home, and few places offer quite the breadth of choice as the Cotswolds. Tisanes Tea Rooms in the pretty village of Broadway, Worcestershire, is housed in a www.britain-magazine.com
ILLUSTRATION: © LAURA HALLETT PHOTOS: © RAY EVANS/TIM GAINEY/ALAMY
Where better to indulge in one of our most quintessential pastimes than in one of Britain’s most idyllic regions?
SOUTHWEST ENGLAND Just one of the stunning views of the Peak District. Inset: Charlotte Brontë (left) and Jane Austen
Clockwise from top left: Tisanes Tea Rooms; Broadway Tower; delectable afternoon tea at Whatley Manor; luxurious Lucknam Park
Just one of the stunning views of the Peak District. Inset: Charlotte Brontë (left) and Jane Austen
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Afternoon tea is a Victorian tradition sparked by Anna Maria Russell, the 7th Duchess of Bedford – a friend of Queen Victoria’s
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Clockwise from above: The leafy village of Upper Swell, near Stow-on-the-Wold; St Edward's Church in Stow; tea in the Drawing Room at Whatley Manor; Broadway village
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17th-century stone building that is every bit as charming inside as its exterior suggests. It’s a popular, informal spot, and although it is quite small, staff are quick, jolly and serve freshly made sandwiches and home-made cakes, accompanied by your choice of tea, with finesse. If it’s warm and sunny, you could sit in the nice garden. You can also take home a selection of preserves, curds, marmalades, chutneys, jellies, mustards, teas and coffees. Just 12 miles south of Broadway, in the village of Stow-on-the-Wold, is Huffkins. Huffkins is also housed in a 17th-century building, which may even have been here when the Cavaliers surrendered to the Roundheads in the town’s market square in the final battle of the English Civil War, in 1646. Today the market town is more sedate – all antiques shops, art galleries and fabulous Cotswolds views from its position high above the ancient Fosse Way. Make time to visit St Edward’s Church, which retains many 13th- and 14th-century features and has stunning stained-glass windows. When it’s time for tea, Huffkins – which boasts three other Cotswolds tearooms, plus one in Stratford-upon-Avon – will furnish you with flavoursome hand-cut sandwiches, warm scones with clotted cream, and cakes, all using Cotswolds ingredients and served in the first-floor lounge. The original Huffkins bakery opened in Burford in 1890 and delivered goods by donkey and cart, so you can rest assured the company knows its stuff. Just 17 miles south of Stow-on-the-Wold is the rather special Barnsley House, set in a beautiful Tudor manor house in the Gloucestershire countryside. Afternoon tea is served in the serene
PHOTOS: © ANDREW ROLAND/ALAMY/SLAWEK STASZCZUK/LOOP IMAGES
PHOTOS: © ANDREW ROLAND/NIKRATES/ALAMY/SLAWEK STASZCZUK/LOOP IMAGES
SOUTHWEST ENGLAND
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Oxford London Luxurious coach travel
Whether it’s one of the world’s most famous university cities you’re looking to visit or the top attractions in the Capital, travel by coach between Oxford and London.
Free WiFi Pay contactless* Frequent departures No need to pre-book For timetable and fare information
oxfordtube.com
*Terms and Conditions apply. See oxfordtube.com for details.
KIDS TRAV FREEE* L 7 day saw eek
Oxford - London a l l d ay. . . a l l n i g h t . . . a l l ye a r
SOUTHWEST ENGLAND
PHOTOS: © WWW.MARKLORDPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK/COLIN UNDERHILL/ALAMY
Vintage afternoon tea comes in china cups and the table is dressed for the occasion with fresh linen and flowers
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Above: Barnsley House’s gardens are rightly celebrated Below: Watch passing horse-riders from the bay window of The Kitchen
Potager restaurant, with views over the gorgeous gardens designed by revered horticulturalist Rosemary Verey. Sandwiches include the ubiquitous cucumber, alongside ham and mustard, plus the posh-sounding Arlington White egg mayonnaise, and Severn & Wye smoked salmon. Nice twists on the classic and Champagne tea offerings include the hotel’s G&Tea, which provides all the essential afternoon tea elements, alongside a ‘gin of the week’ G&T. At The Kitchen, in the town of Minchinhampton, four miles south of Stroud in Gloucestershire, you can choose between classic, traditional and vintage afternoon tea. The last one comes in china cups and the table is dressed for the occasion with fresh linen and flowers. Sit by the huge bay window and watch passing horse-riders and an occasional herd of cows. You may even be able to spot the Princess Royal, HM The Queen’s daughter Anne, who lives at Gatcombe Park near the ancient market town. Talking of the Royal Family, the Duke of Edinburgh played skittles and darts at The Methuen Arms in Corsham in the far south of the Cotswolds (just 10 miles from Bath) while stationed at the petty officers’ training school at HMS Royal Arthur close by. It was during his time here that the young officer requested leave to visit London to propose to Princess Elizabeth, as she was then. Today The Methuen Arms, which stands on the site of an older Tudor building just outside Corsham Court and which has been operating as an inn BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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since at least the 18th century, is showing off the results of a major refurbishment. The restaurant with rooms is set in a grand Georgian house and serves an elegant afternoon tea courtesy of award-winning head chef Leigh Evans, who previously worked at The Royal Crescent Hotel in Bath and is committed to using only the best local ingredients. Continuing the grand theme, at Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa you can enjoy afternoon tea in an impeccable country house hotel. Built in the 18th century, this romantic house in located on the outskirts of Malmesbury, England’s oldest borough, which is home to a 12th-century abbey that is still in use today. The house and gardens would not be out of place in a period drama, and tea can be taken in one of the refined dining areas, or on the lawn in summer, from where you can admire the ivy and wisteria as it creeps round the mullioned windows. If you want to make the most of your visit, then book a room for the night and make good use of the highly regarded spa, too. And last, but certainly not least, why not take tea in the Palladian mansion of the Lucknam Park Hotel, just six miles from the centre of Bath? You can have tea in the delightful drawing room, in the library or on the terrace, when the weather allows. Lucknam is set in 500 acres of unspoiled grounds in the Wiltshire countryside. There is thought to have been a Saxon settlement on the site from before the Norman invasion of 1066, offering a long history. Alongside its luxurious and revitalising spa, it even boasts its own cookery school and equestrian centre. We are sure the Duchess of Bedford would have heartily approved.
The historic market town of Malmesbury Below: Delicate and delicious cakes at The Methuen Arms
For more Cotswolds inspiration and afternoon tea reviews, visit www.britain-magazine.com
TIME FOR TEA Tisanes Tea Rooms Tea and cakes served from 10am-5pm www.tisanes-tearooms.co.uk
The Methuen Arms Afternoon tea is served between 3pm and 5pm, although the restaurant is open all day. See the website for details www.themethuenarms.com
Huffkins Open Mon to Sat 8.30am-5pm; Sun 10am-5pm www.huffkins.com Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa Afternoon tea is served 3pm-5.30pm Barnsley House Mon to Fri; 3pm-4.30pm Sat & Sun Afternoon tea is served from 3pm-5pm www.whatleymanor.com www.barnsleyhouse.com Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa The Kitchen Available Mon to Sat 2.30pm-5pm; Afternoon tea is served daily from 3pm-5pm. Sun 3pm-5pm www.thekitchenminch.co.uk www.lucknampark.co.uk
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PHOTOS: © TERRY MATHEWS/ALAMY
SOUTHWEST ENGLAND
picturesque villages, lively historic towns
Discover Wycombe District
and Enjoy…
t in the heart of the Chiltern Hills, Wycombe District is the perfect year round destination whatever your agenda. countryside the beautiful walks, waterways and cosy English pubs provide an idyllic rural retreat. phere the bustling historic market towns offer endless entertainment for all the family.
llages, lively historic towns
Princes Risborough
n Hills, Wycombe District is the perfect year round destination whatever your agenda. mbleden Village High Wycombe and cosy English pubs provide an idyllicHa alks, waterways rural retreat. market towns offer endless entertainment for all the family.
d
Set in the glorious county of Buckinghamshire within the heart of the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Wycombe District’s combination of quintessential English villages, townsone and beautiful outexciting morehistoric contact of ourrural Tourist landscapes make an ideal destination for a day trip or break, all year round.
e Marlow Just a short ride from London the 483597 1892 Tel: +44(0)1628
Princes Risborough
Information Centres Princes Risborough Tel: +44(0)1844 274795
undiscovered Chiltern Hills provide an idyllic and picturesque retreat. Strolling www.wycombe.gov.uk/tourism or email tourism_enquiries@wycombe.gov.uk the Thames Path at Marlow and hiking the Ridgeway National Trail from Princes The River Thames at Marlow Risborough being just a few of the District’s pleasures. Wycombe is proud to host some of the finest accommodation in the Buckinghamshire and with Michelinstar restaurants, cosy countryside pubs, elegant afternoon tea venues and a selection of micro-breweries dotted throughout, you won’t need to search far to enjoy the unique luxuries on offer.
ct one of our Tourist Information Centres To find out more visit
Marlow www.wycombe.gov.uk/tourism
for inspiration483597 planning your trip Tel: or +44(0)1628
contact our Visitor Information Service on
+44(0)1296 382415
Princes Risborough Tel: +44(0)1844 274795 Cycling the Chilterns
ourism or email tourism_enquiries@wycombe.gov.uk
COMPETITION
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A TRIP TO
BLENHEIM PALACE
Enter our competition for your chance to win a day out at Winston Churchill’s magnificent birthplace, plus an overnight stay at The Feathers Hotel
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Blenheim Palace that offers guests comfortable bedrooms and a warm welcome. Food and drink are the focus: the hotel’s award-winning restaurant serves excellent modern English cuisine, while The Feathers Bar was the first bar to enter the Guinness Book of World Records for its huge gin selection. The stylish garden courtyard is a fabulous place to sit outside and sip a G&T on a warm spring or summer evening. TERMS AND CONDITIONS
Closing date for entries is 12pm GMT 4 October 2018. Prize to be redeemed by 1 October 2019, subject to availability. Travel not included. For full terms and conditions, go to www.britain-magazine.com/Blenheim2018
HOW TO ENTER For your chance to win this great prize go to www.britainmagazine.com/competitions/ Blenheim2018 to apply online or fill in the coupon below with the answer to the following question: Q: What famous statesman was born at Blenheim Palace? a) Robert Walpole b) Winston Churchill c) Benjamin Disraeli
ENTRY FORM SEND YOUR COUPON TO: US readers – Blenheim2018 Competition, C/O Circulation Specialists, 2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton, CT 06484 UK and Rest of World readers – Blenheim2018 Competition, BRITAIN magazine, The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London, SW3 3TQ , UK My answer: Name: Address:
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PHOTOS: © ANDREW WALMSLEY PHOTOGRAPHY
W
e’ve teamed up with Blenheim Palace and The Feathers Hotel, Woodstock, to offer you the chance to win an overnight stay with dinner and breakfast at The Feathers Hotel, together with a pair of tickets to Blenheim Palace, including access to the Palace State Rooms, park and formal gardens, and exhibitions that bring the house’s history to life. A true masterpiece of Baroque architecture, Blenheim Palace delivers an awe-inspiring experience. Inside the palace you can discover more than 300 years of captivating stories from Blenheim’s past in the animated and interactive visitor experience, The Untold Story. With over 2,000 acres of landscaped parkland and formal gardens, there’s always something to explore, whatever the season. From great open spaces, punctuated with mature trees, through the intricate Water Terraces, and more peaceful areas such as the Secret Garden and the Churchill Memorial Garden, which celebrates the life and legacy of our ‘Greatest Briton’. The magnificent formal gardens and park also provide stunning settings for cultural and sporting events throughout the year. Part of the very fabric of the nearby village of Woodstock since the 17th century, The Feathers is a chic town house hotel by the gates of
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Southeast England Charm and character
PHOTO: © PEARL BUCKNALL/ALAMY
Known for its countryside, southeast England offers the North Downs and the South Downs, the Chiltern Hills and the New Forest. Close to London, and easily accessible by train, the area covers Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Hampshire, the Isle of Wight, Kent, Oxfordshire, Surrey, and East and West Sussex. With its cobbled streets and antique shops, Rye (pictured) in East Sussex is one of England’s prettiest towns. Its nearby sandy beaches – at Camber, Rye Bay and Romney Marsh – make it perfect for a seaside break, too. Brighton, also in East Sussex, is more lively. Built as a retreat for the Prince Regent (later King George IV), its Royal Pavilion, with its domes and minarets, is one of the most striking buildings in England. Lovers of historical buildings could, however, spend weeks ticking off the many splendid properties in the area. Buckinghamshire offers Cliveden (with its 180-acre garden) , Oxfordshire has Blenheim Palace (home of the Duke of Marlborough), Berkshire has Windsor Castle (HM The Queen's favourite home), while Kent offers Canterbury Cathedral (one of England's oldest cathedrals).
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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND
Hever’s ideaways
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If you’ve always dreamed of visiting Anne Boleyn’s childhood home, then why not combine it with a stay in the castle, which will give you unique access to the grounds out of hours WORDS SALLY COFFEY
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Did you know you could stay at Hever Castle? www.britain-magazine.com
here is something about Hever that is simply magical. Perhaps it is the double moat, or the way it seems not to have aged a day since its Tudor prime. And while the exterior is undeniably romantic, inside it just gets better and better. Many visitors to Hever are disappointed when they learn that the impeccable Tudor interiors are not actually original but the work of William Waldorf Astor, who bought Hever in the early 20th century and set about restoring it to the medieval show home that it is today. They’re wrong to be disappointed: Hever is a pristine example of a Tudor interior, which has been sensitively done, bringing back all the grandeur that would have existed during the time that Anne Boleyn and her family lived here. Originally built as a defensive castle around 1270 (the 13th-century gatehouse is still here), and having evolved into a splendid manor house in the 15th century, by the time Astor bought Hever in 1903 it was in a poor state of repair. Astor, who was worth about £100m, spent £10m of his fortune restoring Hever over a period of five years, enlisting the skill and labour of some 750 craftsmen and adding the show-stopping gardens and lake. Astor, like many Edwardians, was enthralled by the Tudor period and sourced authentic pieces of furniture and artworks from across Europe to realise his dream of creating a Tudor village. BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND The result is impeccable. In the Inner Hall, which would have been the Great Kitchen in Tudor times (and where reportedly tenant farmers allowed their livestock to roam in the Victorian era), an intricate wood-carved gallery, inspired by the rood screen in King’s College Chapel, Cambridge, dazzles. On the wall hangs a replica Holbein painting of Anne – note the Tudor spelling of her name, ‘Bullen’, one of several variations – and a replica of a clock given to Anne from Henry on their wedding day. Rumour has it that HM The Queen gifted the original clock to the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge when they got married in 2011. The Drawing Room, just off the Inner Hall, is where the Astors would have entertained guests such as Sherlock Holmes writer Arthur Conan Doyle, film stars Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor, and Winston Churchill, who was a close friend of William’s son John Jacob (JJ), who inherited Hever after his father’s death. It is an exquisite room, with beautiful panelling that was copied from the Elizabethan Inlaid Chamber at Sizergh Castle in Cumbria and includes a secret door where the Astors kept their drinks cabinet. The Dining Hall, which would have been the Great Hall during the Boleyn family’s time, has a minstrels’ gallery, much like the one that would no doubt have been here when Henry VIII came to dine. A huge tapestry takes up the whole of one side of the room – it is an original, though not necessarily from Hever. One genuine artefact that remains in this room is a lock belonging to Henry. Henry was very paranoid about assassination attempts and wherever he travelled he took a locksmith who would lock the door of any room that he spent any length of time in. Incredibly the gilt lock still functions. The Library, which overlooks the moat and Anne Boleyn’s Orchard, has bookcases modelled on ones owned by diarist Samuel Pepys, while the ceiling is a replica of one from Hampton Court Palace. The modest Morning Room, where Tudor women would have retired to after dinner, has 17th-century panelling and Astor – who was known for his tall tales – claimed that human remains were found here. It’s possible that on this occasion he was telling the truth – during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, Hever was owned by the Waldegrave family, who were Catholics, and a cupboard in this room once concealed a priest hole. Stairs from this room lead up to Anne Boleyn’s Bedroom. There is some debate as to whether Anne was born here or at Blickling Hall in Norfolk, but this is thought to be where she slept as a child. Don’t be fooled by the pieces of furniture, including a bedhead bearing her initials, though. Although Astor bought them in good faith believing they belonged to Anne, they are later forgeries. Two prayer books at Hever are thought to belong to Anne though. The Catholic prayer book, from Bruges, hand-printed on vellum with illuminating colours and gold detailing is the most visually stunning. Dating from 1410 (about 100 years prior to Anne’s birth), it was given
Clockwise from top: The intricate wood-carved gallery in the Inner Hall; the Pergola Walk, which runs down the south side of the castle; the Drawing Room, where the Astors would have entertained guests
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PHOTOS: © COURTESY OF HEVER CASTLE & GARDENS
Hever is a pristine example of a Tudor interior, with all the grandeur that would have existed during the time that Anne Boleyn lived here
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THE PLANNER GETTING THERE Trains run from London Victoria and London Bridge (via Oxted or East Croydon) to Edenbridge Town Station. From the station it’s just a three-mile taxi ride. www.thetrainline.com www.edenbridgecars.co.uk TICKETS Adult Castle and Gardens tickets are £16.25 when bought online, or free to B&B guests. Tour prices on request.
Top to bottom: The bedhead, later discovered to be a forgery; the Daffodil Room in the Astor Wing; the marriage tapestry of Princess Mary Rose Tudor hangs in Hever
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WHERE TO STAY Choose between rooms in Hever’s Astor Wing and the Anne Boleyn Wing. www.hevercastle.co.uk/stay
to Anne by some unknown benefactor. The more muted prayer book is typical of the ‘new ideas’ of the Reformation and is the one that Anne is believed to have taken to the executioner’s block. Another original artefact belonging to one of Henry’s wives has recently been uncovered and is now on show at Hever in the Queen’s Chamber. An oak panel, dating from around 1544, is believed to have come from a former home of Anne of Cleves, which could have been Hever Castle. The panel shows Anne’s insignia and features a design that formed the basis of the decoration used on her tomb in Westminster Abbey. Although Anne’s marriage to Henry was short-lived – the marriage was annulled on the grounds that it was not consummated – the king was fond of her and gifted her several properties, including Hever Castle, which she owned until her death in 1557. In the Long Gallery, installed by Anne Boleyn’s father and used as a place of exercise when the weather was bad, you can see many of the paintings for which Hever is renowned – it has one of the best Tudor art collections in Britain, second only to the National Portrait Gallery. Staying at Hever has some obvious benefits, quite aside from the fact that sleeping in the very castle in which Henry wooed Anne while still married to Catherine of Aragon, is an unforgettable experience. Guests at the B&B have exclusive access to areas out of bounds to other visitors, such as the Anne Boleyn Orchard. Plus, when the last of the day visitors has left you are free to roam parts of the grounds at your leisure, without hoards of people spoiling the romantic illusion. Indeed, book out of season when the castle is closed to the public and you’ll have the gardens to yourselves for even longer. Rooms in the five-star B&B are lavish and well appointed and are located in both the Astor Wing and the Anne Boleyn Wing. In the former you can expect Tudor-style interiors with Edwardian furnishings – you’ll need to use the stools to reach the tall beds – and you can also make good use of the gorgeously refined Music Room downstairs (which despite its name is a quiet room). Rooms in the Anne Boleyn Wing are slightly more modern but still classic in style. For a truly memorable stay, book into the Edward VII Suite, which has the best castle view of any room we’ve ever seen. Don’t fret if you can’t get in there though, as the Breakfast Room in this wing also has great views across the orchard to the castle. All guests at the B&B get free access to the castle and grounds, plus on select days they can enjoy a guided tour of the castle before it opens for the day. Tours average at about 25 people (if you’re not staying you can still book a place on a tour) or for a more intimate tour, book onto a connoisseurs’ tour. Rooms in the Astor Wing can only be booked eight weeks in advance, while rooms in the Anne Boleyn Wing can be booked up to six months ahead. In addition, throughout the year there are opportunities to ‘Dine and Stay’, some of which allow you to have dinner in the Dining Hall in the castle, where Henry himself would have eaten. Now that really would be something.
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PHOTOS: © KENNY HICKEY PHOTOGRAPHY/HEVER CASTLE & GARDENS/STEVE VIDLER/ALAMY
SOUTHEAST ENGLAND
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Heart of England Booming Birmingham
PHOTO: © MAURITIUS IMAGES/GMBH/ALAMY LLMAN
This region of England is home to both the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, Ironbridge, and the birthplace of the world’s most famous playwright, William Shakespeare, in Stratford-upon-Avon. But while the Tudor villages of Warwickshire have obvious charm, and the museums of Ironbridge Gorge are world-class, don’t dismiss the cities, which buzz with culture. In Birmingham, the UK’s second biggest city, you can walk through the conservation area of the historic Jewellery Quarter, and see some of the 500 businessess still selling their shiny wares from neat red-brick houses. Elsewhere, the Ikon Gallery is a very cool contemporary art venue in the recently uplifted Brindleyplace neighbourhood. Have lunch or a drink in one of the trendy canalside restaurants or bars nearby. The Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery (home to the Staffordshire Hoard) also has an endearing Edwardian Tea Room (pictured). It is one of the loveliest museum cafés we’ve ever encountered – and it has some tough competition.
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On the TUDOR TRAIL The Heart of England hides some spectacular stately homes and castles, which attracted even the most notorious of Tudor kings, Henry VIII WORDS SALLY COFFEY
The stunning garden and entrance pathway leading to 16th-century Packwood House in Warwickshire
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hough his daughter Elizabeth’s annual progresses may have been better documented, King Henry VIII also embarked on a royal progress each summer to escape the heat in London, which would cause the smell from the already pungent open sewers to become unbearable. For the king, this exodus from the capital was a chance to flaunt his kingship as he stayed with courtiers along the route, who would virtually bankrupt themselves by going to extreme measures to ensure their homes were fit for royal guests and their entourage (which went into the thousands). It was during Henry’s Great Progress of 1541 – in which the progress took the king all the way from London to York – that he stopped off at Grimsthorpe Castle in Lincolnshire. Henry had granted Grimsthorpe Castle to William Willoughby, 11th Baron Willoughby de Eresby, in 1516 when he married Maria de Salinas, lady-in-waiting to Henry’s queen at the time, Catherine of Aragon. By the time of the 1541 visit, the house was in the hands of their
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daughter, Catherine Willoughby and her much older husband (and previous ward), Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, who had been Henry’s brother-in-law. The couple went to great expense to extend the house for the visit by Henry and his fifth wife Catherine Howard, using limestone from the nearby Abbey of Vaudey, which had been dissolved in 1536. Henry must have been impressed – he held a privy council here on two days – but unfortunately for his wife, her alleged affair with Thomas Culpeper was about to be uncovered, bringing about her downfall and subsequent beheading. Catherine Willoughby went on to be lady-in-waiting for Henry’s 6th wife, Catherine Parr, and in his book Henry VIII’s Last Love, historian David Baldwin submits his theory that Henry was lining her up to be his 7th wife. Today Grimsthorpe Castle bears the hallmarks of its later architect Sir John Vanbrugh’s Baroque style but its Tudor quadrangle is a reminder of its former guise.
PHOTOS: © PEAKSCAPE/ALAMY/JOHN HAMMOND/JAMES DOBSON/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES
Haddon Hall has been the location of many films
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PHOTOS: © RIK HAMILTON/NATURESLIGHT/ALAMY/GETTY IMAGES/MARY EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY
Set high on the rugged, windswept Cornish coast, few places beat the drama and romance of Tintagel Castle
The view down the long gallery towards the entrance hall at Packwood House www.britain-magazine.com
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Built in the 16th century and maintained in immaculate condition, Thornbury Castle Hotel now acts as a unique and historical setting for visitors from all around the world. Built by Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, during the reign of King Henry VIII, Thornbury Castle has a history that’s almost palpable as you walk its centuries-old halls. King Henry VIII honeymooned here for 10 nights with his new bride Anne Boleyn in 1535, after executing Stafford for treason and seizing the castle. Thornbury then fell empty for two hundred years before being saved from ruin in the 1850s and used as a family home. Today, the castle offers a unique experience as a hotel, restaurant and event venue, where guests can find inspiration in a piece of the country’s history. Within the castle, there are 27 sumptuous bedchambers, most with four poster or coronet beds and some with feature bathrooms. You will also find chandeliers, wood-panelled walls and furnishings that combine medieval style and modern comfort. “The Duke’s Bedchamber” which was where the King and Queen spent their honeymoon, is still available as a guest bedchamber to this day.
Thornbury Castle offers all of the contemporary comforts and conveniences of a modern hotel but with breath taking historical grandeur. The castle is enclosed within stunning and original Tudor walled gardens, inspiring guests as they approach. The castle interiors are just as impressive, with stone walls lined with suits of armour and tapestries, lending a sense of weight and majesty to any stay. The castle also has an award-winning restaurant and offers wonderful food and drink that live up to the venue. Our Head Chef, Andrew Chan and his team of talented chefs prepare fresh food with an emphasis on choice and quality using seasonal ingredients, many of which are grown in our castle gardens. You will find Thornbury Castle Hotel on the edge of the Cotswolds, just north of Bristol and Bath and conveniently close to the M5 and M4 Motorways. The castle is also easily accessible from London Paddington Station with direct
trains every 30 minutes and a journey time of just 80 minutes to Bristol Parkway station, which is located just 9 miles away. There’s complimentary car parking on-site, and even a helipad, though remember to call ahead if you want to arrange a landing. This 16th-century castle truly is a stunning hotel, with delicious food, excellent service and fantastic facilities, perfect for infusing your visit with a little regal grandeur and to stay here is like taking a step back in time.
T: +44 (0)1454 281182 E: reception@thornburycastle.co.uk thornburycastle.co.uk
HEART OF ENGLAND
The Great Hall at medieval Baddesley Clinton in Warwickshire
Inside, tours take you through the grand interior, including the Vanbrugh hall – considered Vanbrugh’s noblest – while outside you can explore the impressive grounds, where deer have walked since medieval times. Further south, Henry granted the Norman fortress of Rockingham Castle in Leicestershire, which had fallen into disrepair, to Edward Watson, a local landowner in 1530. Edward, ancestor of the current owner, transformed Rockingham into a comfortable Tudor house, although it was later changed again into a Victorian mansion. In the hall you can see reminders of its Tudor past, including a portrait of Henry hanging next to one which some historians believe depicts Mary Boleyn, the ‘Other Boleyn Girl’ and sister of Henry’s doomed second wife, Anne. One place where Tudor heritage has been revived rather than forgotten is at Packwood House in Warwickshire, further west. This formerly modest Tudor manor house, which had evolved through its Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian ownerships, was restored to its Tudor glory in the first half of the 20th century by owner Baron Ash. The painstaking project included converting a large cow barn into a Tudor-style Great Hall with a sprung floor for dancing, which was linked to the main house by a Long
Gallery whose walls were adorned with giant tapestries. To add authenticity, Baron Ash acquired antiques from other historic houses, including bringing the hall table from nearby Baddesley Clinton, a medieval moated manor located a few miles away in the beautiful Forest of Arden. The well-preserved house of Baddesley Clinton is nothing short of an architectural gem. Home to the Ferrers family for 500 years, it is now in the hands of the National Trust and includes a moat, bridge and crenelated gatehouse entrance. Throughout the house you can see examples of the Ferrers’ coat of arms in the stained glass and carved wood, a tradition begun by Henry Ferrers the Antiquary, who lived at Baddesley from 1564 to 1633, and who is thought to have built the magnificent Great Hall. Following the Reformation, Henry Ferrers rented the house to two Catholic sisters and it became a hiding place for Jesuit priests – its three surviving priest holes are testament to this. Another Tudor house worth a visit in Warwickshire is Coughton Court, which retains many original features, including its elaborate 16th-century gate tower, which was dedicated to King Henry VIII by the house’s owner, Sir George Throckmorton. Throckmorton was once a favourite courtier of Henry’s but he risked execution when he sided
PHOTOS: © JAMES DOBSON/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES
The well-preserved house of Baddesley Clinton is nothing short of an architectural gem
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THE PLANNER GETTING THERE There are mainline train stations within half an hour of each of the properties with regular connections to London. To explore the region fully, however, a car is invaluable. www.thetrainline.com; www.auto-international.com TAKE A TOUR Rockingham Castle and Grimsthorpe Castle form part of the Hidden England collection of properties, which runs group tours that include visits to both these, plus the burial place of Henry VIII’s first wife Catherine of Aragon at Peterborough Cathedral. www.hiddenengland.org FOOD AND DRINK Take afternoon tea in the 17th-century stable block at Haddon Hall, which overlooks the River Wye, while The Case is Altered is a convivial old pub near Baddesley Clinton, which has served locals for centuries but you won't get food here: just good beer and conversation. www.haddonhall.co.uk; www.thegoodpubguide.co.uk
Aerial view of Rockingham Castle in Leicestershire
with Henry’s first wife Catherine of Aragon when Henry wanted a divorce, and he stood against the Reformation. The house at Coughton Court is like a time capsule into the life of an early Tudor family, with incredible portraits and memorabilia on display, including a chemise, which was apparently worn by Mary, Queen of Scots, on the day of her execution, and a bishop’s cope, which Catherine of Aragon is said to have once worked on. It is the house’s links to two gruesome plots that earns it its place in the history books, however, as it was here that the Throckmorton Plot was first hatched – a plan by Catholics to murder Queen Elizabeth I and replace her with her cousin, Mary, Queen of Scots – while conspirators of the 1605 Gunpowder Plot rode here after their plans were thwarted. Heading north into Nottinghamshire, Wollaton Hall is an Elizabethan mansion, built in the 1580s by the great grandson of one of the richest men in England, Sir Francis Willoughby. Sir Francis’s great grandfather had made what is now Wollaton Old Hall the family’s main home so he could exploit the local coalmines for further riches. Sir Francis obviously felt the family home was no longer suitable for a man of his status and so he commissioned Robert Smythson, the architect behind Longleat in Wiltshire, to create an ambitious country house that would leave visitors in no doubt as to the extent of his wealth. Further north on the edge of the Peak District, Haddon Hall is one of Britain’s finest medieval manor houses.
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WORCESTER CATHEDRAL Factor in a visit to this, the final resting place of Arthur Tudor, older brother of King Henry VIII and the first husband of Catherine of Aragon, who succumbed to a mysterious ‘sweating sickness’ in 1502. Arthur's remains lay beneath a lovely chantry chapel and the cathedral is also home to King John's tomb – the king visited often to see the shrine of Saint Wulfstan. www.worcestercathedral.co.uk
Such is its period appeal that it has provided backdrops in no fewer than three screen versions of Jane Eyre, as well as films Elizabeth, Pride & Prejudice, The Other Boleyn Girl and The Princess Bride. With its stunning location overlooking the River Wye outside the Derbyshire town of Bakewell, Haddon Hall is rightly considered one of the most romantic Tudor houses in Britain, not least because of a love story that has been passed down by generations. The story goes that in 1563 Dorothy Vernon, daughter of the then owner Sir George Vernon fell in love with John Manners, the second son of the First Earl of Rutland, but her father condemned a union. Quite why Sir George disapproved, nobody knows, perhaps it was because the Manners were Catholics while the Vernons were Protestants. Whatever the reason, during a ball at Haddon Hall, the couple slipped away and eloped to be married. The rest, as they say, is history. Today Haddon Hall is one of the seats of the Duke of Rutland – in the 1920s the 9th Duke and his wife revived the decaying house after 200 years of neglect and it is now inhabited by Lord Edward Manners, brother of the 11th Duke, meaning it is still in the hands of Dorothy and John’s descendants almost 500 years on. To find out more about the Tudors and England's spectacular stately homes and castles, visit www.britain-magazine.com www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: © ROCKINGHAM CASTLE
TUDOR HAVEN Complete the experience with a stay in your very own self-catering Tudor cottage, located near Bidford on Avon in Warwickshire. www.tudorcottage.me.uk
TAILOR-MADE PRIVATE TOURS FOR THE DISCERNING
Photo: Shakespeare Birthplace Trust
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East of England Natural beauty
PHOTO: © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/IAN WARD
The wide, open skies over the Fens, a large coastal plain stretching across Norfolk, Suffolk and Cambridgeshire, characterise the East of England. Come here for the beauty and tranquillity of the landscape, as many have done before. One glance at Suffolk and you won't be surprised that the country has been home to two of England’s finest painters – John Constable and Thomas Gainsborough. There is plenty to do, too. At Blakeney National Nature Reserve in Norfolk (pictured), look out for flocks of birds, as well as the seals that congregate on the coast. The county is also a hot spot for stately homes, from Sandringham (where the Royal Family spend Christmas) to Holkham Hall (with its herd of deer). Suffolk and Cambridgeshire are particularly renowned for their ancient archaeological treasures. Sutton Hoo in the former county is one of England’s most significant Anglo-Saxon finds, comprising a ship burial containing gold and silver bowls and jewellery, and is well worth a visit. For living culture, make a trip to the university city of Cambridge. Amble round the historic colleges and punt down the river.
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EAST OF ENGLAND One of the oldest timber-framed buildings in Lavenham, the medieval Little Hall
Suffolk WOOL TOWNS We journey through the beautifully preserved Tudor towns of Kersey, Lavenham, Cavendish, Clare, Sudbury and Long Melford WORDS ALISTAIR MACQUEEN
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location in the Harry Potter films as Godric’s Hollow – Harry’s birthplace), there are numerous sights to explore, such as the Guildhall of Corpus Christi, which was used to shape the laws and regulations of the local wool trade. Built in the 16th century, the hall is now owned by the National Trust and features a local history
Above: A beautiful example of a timber-framed house in Lavenham, painted in Suffolk pink
PHOTOS: © NAGELESTOCK.COM/TRAVELLING LIGHT/MJ PERRIS/ALAMY. ILLUSTRATION: © MICHAEL HILL
B
y the time medieval England was entering the Early Modern Period (around 1485), wool was the veritable engine of the economy, thanks largely to the huge demand that existed for it from the fashionable cloth-making regions of Belgium, France and Italy. And nowhere benefited more from this trade than Suffolk, where the confluence of an abundance of sheep and wool merchants made a noticeable impact on the towns and villages where the wool was produced. Arguably, the centrepiece of the trade was Lavenham where a plethora of well preserved timber-framed buildings line the streets, in a place that is thought to possess some of the finest examples of medieval architecture in Britain today. The intricate buildings constructed out of great British oaks were limewashed in different hues to produce the vibrant and enchanting scenes that have welcomed travellers for centuries. Records suggest there are more than 300 listed buildings in the town and many of them have been afforded protection status by English Heritage. From its vibrant market square (used as a
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PHOTOS: © DAVID J GREEN/ROBERT WYATT/IAN DAGNELL/ALAMY
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exhibition, plus a wonderful tea room with a Tudor interior and the freshest of scones. Lavenham’s crowning glory is surely the church of St Peter and St Paul’s. Built between 1485 and 1525, it encapsulates the wealth of its aristocratic benefactors, such as Lord of Lavenham, John de Vere, the 13th Earl of Oxford, as well as three generations of local merchants, Thomas Spring, I, II and III. With a 141ft tower built by John Clerk and the nave and aisle by John Wastell (whose work can also be seen in the Great St Mary’s in Cambridge), the grand exterior is both imposing yet arresting, while its interior is a wonderful example of restored rood and parclose screens, expansive windows that draw the eye upwards, as well as a juxtaposition of ornate carvings and misericords (including one of a man playing a pig as if it were a set of bagpipes). Stepping back into the village, it would be a mistake not to immerse yourself in the more secular aspects of village life. The Swan at Lavenham is a truly first-class hotel, pub and restaurant that guarantees a relaxing, indulgent stay. Whether you’ve got a hankering for www.britain-magazine.com
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afternoon tea, fine-dining, or a drink in the must-see Airmen’s Bar, The Swan is an institution with timber-framed bedrooms and a spa. Meanwhile, The Lavenham Greyhound, another local institution, underwent a restoration in 2014 and its final phase has now been completed with a new restaurant and kitchen. It offers the best in all-day pub food using only local ingredients and serves a fine array of lagers, wines and cocktails.
PHOTOS: © MICHAEL BROOKS/ALAMY/GUY EDWARDES/GETTY
Above: Clare Antiques & Interiors Below: Thatched cottages with St Mary the Virgin Church in Cavendish
Lavenham’s riches are often compared to its nearby rival Long Melford, where a mixture of charm and tradition is strewn through its 2.5-mile high street. Like many wool towns, it has a commanding church to the north of the village on its beautiful green. Funded by three wealthy families, it has battlements on the tower and down the nave with buttressed side aisles, which lends it an imposing quality, and is festooned inside with fine examples of medieval art and sculptures. Built to inspire humility, it displays wealth at every turn. Melford Hall, cared for by the National Trust, was built in the 16th century and has passed through several hands, from the abbots following the Dissolution of the Monasteries, to its current occupiers, the Hyde Parkers. With a surfeit of activities and walks, and countless examples of art throughout the centuries, it has also entertained many royal and culturally significant figures. A stained glass window of Queen Elizabeth I recalls her visit here, and there is a significant amount of Beatrix Potter-related paintings and artefacts (such as a toy of Jemima Puddleduck) throughout the building as Potter was related to the Hyde Parkers. While the hall has a fine tea room, replete with fresh sandwiches and scones, visitors in search of more solid sustenance, and a place to rest their head, should visit The Long Melford Swan,
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THE PLANNER GETTING THERE Suffolk’s wool towns are roughly 80 miles northeast of London, between Cambridgeshire and Norfolk, and take 1 hour and 15 mins to reach by train. Trains depart from London Liverpool Street 24 times a day. www.thetrainline.com LAVENHAM FARMERS‘ MARKET On the fourth Sunday of every month, the Lavenham Farmers’ Market is held in Lavenham’s village hall. Winner in the 2015 Best Food Market in Suffolk category at the BBC Radio 4 Food & Farming Awards, it features a panoply of locally sourced meat, fruit and vegetables from artisan suppliers, with fresh lamb, sausages, venison, game, pies, jams, and pickles. It feels very English – in the best possible way.
FRAMLINGHAM CASTLE From its beginnings as a motte and bailey castle, this 12th-century Suffolk gem near Framlingham (below) is well worth a visit. Walk its well-preserved ramparts, discover the extensive surrounding parklands and delve into the history of the place where Queen Mary was proclaimed ruler of the country. www.english-heritage.org.uk KENTWELL HALL This wonderful red-brick Tudor mansion near Long Melford is home to a rare breeds farm and colourful gardens, with many varieties of plants and flowers. Kentwell also holds numerous events such as films in the open air, operatic nights, sheep-shearing days and historic recreation activities. Stop for afternoon tea or lunch in the Stableyard Tearoom. It even offers accommodation on the estate in the form of cottage holiday lets. www.kentwell.co.uk HEDINGHAM CASTLE Granted as an estate by William the Conqueror to Aubrey de Vere I in 1086, this castle is often described as the best Norman keep in England and offers commanding views from its lofty 110ft walls. Due to its popularity as a wedding venue, you will need to check opening times before visiting but you can expect to see a range of activities and events, from archery to outdoor plays, as well as classic car shows and regular jousting tournaments. www.hedinghamcastle.co.uk
There are just 350 residents in the pretty parish of Kersey
a Michelin-listed, 2 AA Rosette boutique restaurant and hotel, which oozes culinary flair from its tasting menus and breakfasts. Alternatively, stay at the nearby Bull Hotel, which once hosted John Lennon and Yoko Ono. As well as the usual array of shops, Long Melford has its fair share of antique stores: Long Melford Antiques Centre, in Chapel Maltings, and the Melford Antiques and Interiors Warehouse are the places to look for original and reproduction gems. More antiques can be found further east in the village of Clare at Clare Antiques & Interiors, which has four floors of treasures to delve into. Clearly there is more to Clare than this though. Located on the River Stour, Clare’s well organised workers and merchants made the most of the lucrative foreign markets and would distribute the wealth back into the town, and it shows with its numerous almshouses and 133 listed buildings. The ruins of Clare Castle can also be found at the Clare Castle Country Park, just 2 minutes from town. There’s not much left now of the great construction, but it’s a great place to take in the countryside views – you might even make out the spire of Cavendish’s United Reformed Church. While the building itself isn’t the greatest of Suffolk’s churches, the village of Cavendish is splendid, with three cosy pubs – the George, the Five Bells and the Bull – nestling among a high street adorned with thatched buildings that lead off from the village green. If you’re lucky, you might even see some traditional maypole dancing. To the south of Cavendish lies Sudbury, the hometown of painter Thomas Gainsborough. The son of a local cloth merchant, Gainsborough’s statue can be seen in front of St Peter’s church. Nearby, in the artist’s restored house, there’s a museum dedicated to his life and works, which also details the influence he had on many other painters, such as John Constable, who also regularly referenced the Suffolk countryside in his work. To see how the wool trade could make a small village flourish, a visit to Kersey is a must. This supremely attractive parish displays a wonderful Grade I listed church, St Mary’s, dating from Norman times, which was extended throughout the medieval period. The population swelled to 800 during these prosperous times, when the famed Kersey coarse twill cloth that was integral in making army uniforms was weaved, but there are just 350 inhabitants today. With a ford running through the centre of the village, it’s an idyllic scene and a walk past the thatched cottages should earn you a visit to The Bell Inn. Housed in a medieval building, it offers good food and three cask ales as well as an authentic open log fire. Magical, whatever time of year you choose to visit. Much like the rest of Suffolk in many ways. To discover more about the beautiful county of Suffolk, visit www.britain-magazine.com/suffolk
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Northern England Brontë country
PPHOTO: © PABSIGNS/ALAMY
This year marks 200 years since the birth of Emily Brontë, the younger sister of Charlotte, who is celebrated for her only novel, Wuthering Heights. Set on the brooding Yorkshire Moors, Emily‘s tale of thwarted love, revenge and cruelty, which is marred by tragedy, caused controversy in Victorian society, but today is deemed a classic. The book was published in 1847 as the first two volumes of a three-volume set that included her sister Anne’s book Agnes Grey. Emily died just a year after the book was published under a pseudonym: Charlotte arranged for a later edition to be correctly attributed to her. It's well worth exploring the surrounding countryside – the heather moorland conjured up in Emily's work. Brontë fans can also visit the Brontë Parsonage Museum (pictured), housed in the family’s former home in the village of Haworth. This year the exhibition Emily Brontë: Making Thunder Roar will feature some of Emily's writing, artwork and personal possessions, shedding light into the life of the much-loved author. Other highlights of the area include Durham, with its historic cathedral, and Liverpool, with its museums and galleries.
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CaptainCook
Country In the 250th anniversary year since his maiden voyage, we explore the Yorkshire towns and villages that shaped one of Britain’s most famous explorers WORDS NEIL JONES
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The charming fishing village of Staithes
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O
ne day in 1746 a 17-year-old youth arrived in Whitby on the Yorkshire coast to be apprenticed to a master mariner engaged in the coal trade between the North East and London. You can visit the mariner’s handsome white harbour-side house where the young man lodged when not at sea, and where he studied by candlelight deep into the night in the attic. The youth was none other than James Cook (1728-1779), who would go on to join the Royal Navy and make three epic voyages that radically altered perceptions of world geography, set new standards in map-making and placed him among the world’s greatest navigators. This year marks the 250th anniversary of the beginning of Cook’s first pioneering journey, during which he crossed the then almost uncharted Pacific, circumnavigated New Zealand and surveyed the east coast of Australia. An exhibition (until 4 November) at his former lodgings – now the Captain Cook Memorial Museum Whitby – marks the occasion. While Cook sailed from Plymouth, Devon, in 1768, he was aboard a sturdy, flat-bottomed Whitby-built
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Clockwise from above: Captain Cook; picturesque Whitby Harbour; Whitby Abbey inspired ‘Dracula'
bark, Endeavour, and the exhibition Whitby in the Time of Cook, the Making of a Great Seaman explains the debt he owed to the Yorkshire seaside town. This year’s Captain Cook Festival (6-8 July), which takes place in the town, will feature two tall ships, giving a taste for life at sea in the 18th century. The Yorkshire coast where Cook acquired his first whiff of maritime adventure stretches from the northern resort of Saltburn-by-the-Sea down to Spurn Point. At its northern end, fishing villages cling to cliffs, while traditional seaside resorts – Whitby, Scarborough, Filey and Bridlington – helter-skelter south, interspersed by the chalk cliffs of Bempton and Flamborough, where nearly half a million seabirds gather each year. Of course, Cook isn’t the only person to be inspired by Whitby. In the summer of 1890, the Victorian author Bram Stoker came to stay and, touring the gaunt ruins www.britain-magazine.com
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PHOTOS: © MICHAEL PASDZIOR/GETTY IMAGES/VISITENGLAND/RICH J JONES/CHARLOTTE GRAHAM/ ZUMA WIRE/ALAMY/NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, LONDON. ILLUSTRATION: MICHAEL A HILL
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Left: The Saltburn Cliff Lift is Britain’s oldest working water-balanced cliff tramway Below: Thornwick Bay, Flamborough attracts birdwatchers
of the medieval abbey and the graveyard of St Mary’s Church perched on East Cliff, found the dramatic setting for the chilling night arrival of his bloodsucking vampire, Dracula. In the guise of a black dog, Dracula bounds ashore from a storm-tossed ship and heads up the 199 steps to the church before claiming his first victim. The Dracula Experience on Marine Parade, town walks and occasional events at the abbey make the most of associations with the Gothic horror classic. You can discover more about the abbey’s long history in the visitor centre. Then, after taking your fill of panoramic views over town and sea, head down to Whitby Museum in Pannett Park. Here you can find out about the port’s 18th- and 19th-century heydays of shipbuilding and whaling, see Jurassic fossils collected along the Yorkshire coast, as well as locally mined jet – the black mineral popularised for mourning jewellery by Queen Victoria. You can still buy fossils and jet jewellery in Whitby shops, or follow nose-twitching smells to the smokehouse of Fortune’s Kippers in cobbled Henrietta Street, established in 1872 and still tempting tastebuds. Local fishermen ensure you are spoiled for choice for seafood. Quayside, a restaurant serving Yorkshire fish and chips, deep-fried in beef dripping, has the added attraction of being housed in a building that once contained the library where Stoker came across the name ‘Dracula’. Heading north along the coast from Whitby (and www.britain-magazine.com
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NORTHERN ENGLAND
Join a top-hatted storyteller on a ghost walk through intriguing alleyways to hear tales of shipwrecks and smugglers resisting the inland enticements of the North York Moors National Park), you pass the sandy beaches of Sandsend and Runswick Bay where red-roofed cottages stick limpet-like to the cliffs and artists reach for their paint boxes. The fishing village of Staithes, higgledy-piggledy around the cosy harbour, is another magnet for artists. It’s also where James Cook worked in a haberdasher’s shop before he left for Whitby, a link you can explore further in the quirky Captain Cook and Staithes Heritage Centre. On, then, to Saltburn-by-the-Sea, which developed from a fishing hamlet into a holiday resort in Victorian times. Gently descending 120 feet aboard Britain’s oldest working water-balanced cliff tramway (1884) to the restored pleasure pier is just one delight redolent of the era. Yet a century earlier, the area was notorious for ‘free trade’, spearheaded by ‘King of the Smugglers’ John Andrew, landlord of The Ship Inn next to the beach. The olde worlde pub is just the place to watch waves over lunch. Secluded bays and caves right along the coast favoured smuggling, and south of Whitby, Robin Hood’s Bay was reportedly the busiest smuggling community on the Yorkshire coast in the 18th century: with so many www.britain-magazine.com
Above: Robin Hood’s Bay was the busiest smuggling town on the Yorkshire coast in the 18th century Top: Today it is still full of steep hills and secret passages
hiding-places and secret passages that a bale of silk could pass from the bottom of this steep little village to the top without leaving the houses. Check the board next to the Slipway in the Dock and join local storyteller Rose Rylands, top-hatted and carrying a lantern for the occasion, on a ghost walk through intriguing alleyways to hear more tales of shipwrecks and smugglers. Further south again, Ravenscar boasts remains of the Peak Alum Works, managed by the National Trust. It evokes a once-thriving industry – alum was used as a fixative for dyes in textiles – and shows how quarrying helped shape the rugged Yorkshire coastline, uncovering many fossils in the process. The beach at Ravenscar, like BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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THE PLANNER GETTING THERE There are train stations at Bridlington, Filey, Scarborough and Whitby. For a treat, enjoy a trip along the Whitby coastline aboard the ‘Bark Endeavour Whitby’, a scaled replica of Cook’s original ship. www.trainline.com; www.endeavourwhitby.com WHERE TO EAT The Magpie Café overlooking the harbour at Whitby is famed for its seafood dishes, from Whitby crab bisque to Whitby kipper with brown bread, and seafood chowders. www.magpiecafe.co.uk WHERE TO STAY Overlooking Robin Hood’s Bay, Raven Hall Country House Hotel, Ravenscar, was once home to King George III’s physician – the ‘mad’ king allegedly stayed here during treatment. Dine in the Panorama Restaurant with sumptuous views and stay in a bedroom or suite in the hotel, or a lodge in the grounds. www.ravenhall.co.uk CAPTAIN COOK Discover more Yorkshire places associated with Captain Cook on a circular 70-mile Cook Country Tour, including his Birthplace Museum in Marton, the Schoolroom Museum in Great Ayton, as well as coastal Staithes and Whitby. www.captaincook.org.uk
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Above: The sunny Spa Complex at Scarborough Below: Anne Brontë's grave, Scarborough
many Yorkshire beaches, is good for fossil hunting. Leaping onwards to Scarborough, you will find amazing fossils from East Yorkshire’s ‘Dinosaur Coast’ in the Rotunda Museum. But the resort, as well as Filey and Bridlington, are chiefly famed for their beaches with all the ice-cream parlours, bucket-and-spade fun, and seafood stalls that make the great British seaside. Bridlington’s historic harbour is the largest shellfish port in England. In St Mary’s churchyard below Scarborough Castle is the grave of Anne Brontë, the youngest member of the literary family, who died in the town in 1849. Anne spent several happy summer holidays here in the 1840s and set scenes in her novel Agnes Grey here, notably when Edward Weston proposes to Agnes: “I shall never forget that glorious summer evening... watching the splendid sunset mirrored in the restless world of waters at our feet”. Charlotte Brontë visited both Bridlington and Filey in the 1850s; the former said to be the model for the “clean and ancient town of Bretton” in her novel Villette, the latter leading her to record in a letter, “the sea has all its old grandeur”. That is still the case today all along Yorkshire’s magnificent coast. For more Yorkshire travel inspiration, visit www.britain-magazine.com www.britain-magazine.com
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Wales
Expect the unexpected
JAMES O. DAVIES
This year marks the Year of the Sea in Wales – a celebration of the country’s rich maritime traditions as well as its islands, coves and clifftops that have spawned tales of smugglers, wreckers, pirates... even saints. With 870 miles of Wales Coast Path to explore there is no shortage of quaint fishing villages to visit and beautiful bays to discover (there are 230 beaches in Wales). But while the 13th-century walled sea town of Tenby offers singular charm, and Britain’s smallest city of St Davids – the final resting place of the Patron Saint of Wales – has an irrepressible allure, not all of Wales’s attractions are best enjoyed outdoors. Visitors to Cardiff Castle in the Welsh capital are often astounded at the opulent interiors hidden within. While its exterior retains some modest Norman and medieval features, inside guests can walk through a Victorian Gothic Revival fantasy palace (pictured), created for one of the richest men of the time, the 3rd Marquess of Bute. And this is one of the things we love about Wales: just when you think you know everything about the place, you discover something new.
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WALES Snowdonia’s breathtaking Llyn Gwynant lake
MISTS of TIME We travel to Snowdonia in north Wales to discover a land rich in myths and legends that refuse to die WORDS ADRIAN MOURBY
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PHOTO: © STUART BLACK/WWW.ROBERTHARDING.COM. ILLUSTRATION: © LAURA HALLETT
WALES
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T
he Snowdonia National Park takes its name from the tallest mountain in Britain outside Scotland – Snowdon. Formed by volcanoes and sculpted into a series of razor-sharp ridges by glaciation, Snowdon dominates the horizon at the north end of the park. But even at Snowdonia’s southernmost point, you are never far from a hill to climb or a dramatic valley to admire. This is a landscape forged by water. The wettest place in Britain is Crib Goch, a ridge just below the summit of Snowdon. All the rain pours down the hillsides in white torrents, often just gushing over exposed rock and cascading over cliffs. Unsurprisingly, Snowdonia is rich with coniferous forests, Welsh oak and mountain ash trees, blankets of rhododendrons and deep beds of moss. It even has its own lily, which in the UK only grows here. This is a mythical landscape; a bright green wilderness of ruined abbeys and old castles, of ancient slate bridges and low stonewalls that march almost vertically up hillsides. According to legend, Vortigern, the last Romano-British king of these islands, retreated into Snowdonia when the Anglo-Saxons stole his kingdom BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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Clockwise from this image: Bala Lake; sunlit mountains surrounding Cregennen Lakes at Cadair Idris; Harlech Castle at sunrise; the Fairy Glen near Betws-y-Coed
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PHOTOS: © DUNCAN MAXWELL/ADAM BURTON/PETER LEWIS/WWW.ROBERTHARDING.COM
PHOTOS: © ANNA STOWE/TRAVELIBUK/AF ARCHIVE/ALAMY
PHOTOS: © KENNY LAM/VISITSCOTLAND/INFREQUENT_FLYER/ALAMY. ILLUSTRATION: © LAURA HALLETT
Bala Lake is not just popular with fishermen – it’s also said to be home to ‘Teggie’, a female creature and cousin of the Loch Ness Monster
from him. The various princes of Wales who avoided capture after the Norman invasion of Britain used Snowdonia as their refuge, disappearing into the mists, reputedly never to be seen again. There are dragons in Snowdonia and they’re not all on the Welsh flag. At the southern end of the park, the town of Dolgellau acts as a gateway to Snowdonia. Here, houses are hewn of huge black stone blocks, roofs are grey slate and street patterns meandering and medieval. Walkers come to Dolgellau to hike the Precipice Walk, the Torrent Walk and the route to Cadair Idris, named after a Welsh giant who fought a great battle on its slopes. Today, the local legend still runs that those who climb the Pony Path to the summit to spend a night on Idris’s chair (cadair) will return a poet, a madman, or never wake again. Head north from Dolgellau and you will reach Bala Lake, a long, deep lake popular with fishermen and known in Welsh as ‘Llyn Tegid’. Llyn Tegid is full of pike, perch, brown trout and gwyniad, a white fish unique to the lake. It is also said to be the home of ‘Teggie’, a mysterious female creature and cousin of the Loch Ness Monster. While not all locals take Teggie seriously, they’ll tell you that Bald Tegid (‘Tegid Foel’) was the husband of the Welsh witch, Ceridwen, and that his palace is now beneath the waters of the lake because it was drowned one terrible night. Whenever the moon shines bright, the lights of the drowned court of Bald Tegid are said to be shimmering up from the depths. West from Dolgellau, the Mawddach Estuary flows down to Barmouth, a Victorian seaside town that nestles beside the national park. The town has been linked to the Midlands by rail since 1860 and has long, prosperous terraces of slate boarding houses along its front. The Rev. Evans, a local clergyman, recorded with pleasure at the time that “the class of tourist in Barmouth is genteel and, in season the place was filled with Shropshire and Hereford beauties”. Further north along the coast, however, the ancient BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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enmity between the British and the Welsh is revived at Harlech Castle. Its turrets rear up on top of a cliff like a crenelated French fort. Castell Harlech was built by the English King Edward I during his invasion of Wales and has been described by UNESCO as one of “the finest examples of late 13th-century and early 14th-century military architecture in Europe”. Mostly intact, the castle is accessed by a land bridge. Once inside, it’s clear how easy it was to defend – and yet how pleasant to live in, too. Over hundreds of years, Harlech Castle withstood many sieges. Usually, the Welsh were besieging the English, but sometimes the tables were turned. Originally when encircled, it could be resupplied by the sea that lapped the base of its cliff. Now, however, the Irish Sea has retreated over a mile as the west coast of Britain rises, and today King Edward’s mighty castle commands a vista of sand dunes. During the rebellion of Henry Bolingbroke (later Henry IV) against King Richard II, the ‘Welsh Wizard’ Owain Glyndwr held Harlech Castle for the Lancastrians. After his defeat in 1409, Glyndwr disappeared into the mountains of Snowdonia, like so many Welsh princes
PHOTOS: © ROBIN WEAVER/ALAMY/PETER BARRITT/ROBERTHARDING.COM
Right: A sculpture of Llywelyn the Great’s faithful dog, Gelert Below: The seaside town of Barmouth with views of the Mawddach Estuary
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This tearoom in a 15th-century cottage in Llanrwst marks one of the entry points to Snowdonia National Park
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before him. His body was never found, giving rise to the myth that he would return one day to save his country. The further north you travel in Snowdonia the more dramatic the scenery. Beddgelert sits in the Glaslyn valley and white clouds seem to rest on the sunny hillsides above the town. Many people come here for the grave (‘bedd’) of Gelert, a faithful dog belonging to the 13th-century Welsh prince, Llywelyn ap Iorwerth (Llywelyn the Great). One day the prince came back from hunting to find his baby son missing and his dog covered in blood. Thinking Gelert had killed the baby, the quite possibly drunk Prince Llywelyn impetuously slew the hound only to discover the baby, safe under the corpse of another, more savage wolf. Faithful Gelert had been protecting the child. It’s a fanciful story, but in the fields just outside Beddgelert there is a 19th-century grave for Gelert and nearby a 20th-century statue of him. Further north still lies the Llanberis Pass that separates two routes up Snowdon. An old roadside inn called the Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel, where the ninth British expedition to Everest stayed while training for their successful ascent of the Himalayan mountain in 1953, guards the pass. The inn has a Smoke Room for residents that is full of memorabilia of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay,
Clockwise from this image: A pub in Beddgelert; Tu Hwnt I’r Bont Tearoom; the Pen-Y-Gwryd Hotel hosted walkers on the ninth expedition to Everest
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To bear the trademark Orb of authenticity, Harris Tweed must be “hand-woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides” BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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PHOTOS: © PAUL TOMKINS/VISITSCOTLAND/GARY DOAK/DANITA DELIMONT/ALAMY
PHOTOS: © ANDREW HASSON/SEBASTIAN WASEK/DGDIMAGES/ALAMY
Only the pure virgin wool from Cheviot and Scottish Blackface sheep may be used for Harris Tweed (below)
WALES
THE PLANNER GETTING THERE Arriva trains run to and from the English border to Barmouth and Harlech on the edges of the national park. Within the park, the Ffestiniog Railway runs a steam service between Porthmadog and Blaenau Ffestiniog. www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk; www.festrail.co.uk GET YOUR DISCOUNT CARD For just £5 and lasting a year, a Snowdonia Pass will save you money at over 50 attractions across Gwynedd, Conwy and Anglesey, including restaurants, shops and hotels. www.snowdoniapass.co.uk WHERE TO STAY Ffynnon is a colourful, award-winning boutique townhouse hotel in Dolgellau converted from a Gothic Victorian rectory. Stylish, modern rooms start at £160 and suites at £220. www.ffynnontownhouse.com WHERE TO EAT Stop off at Tu Hwnt I’r Bont – a lovely tearoom on the west bank of the River Conwy, housed in a 15th-century ivy-covered building that is now in the hands of the National Trust. www.tuhwntirbont.co.uk
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including ice picks, crampons, a string vest, an umbrella and even a straw boater. Finally, one comes to the glorious Snowdon itself, which can be climbed via a number of routes or ascended on an old Swiss rack and pinion mountain railway that first carried passengers in 1896. It still takes an hour to click its way slowly past sheep and cattle grazing on bright green moorland. At one point, it weaves high above Llyn Du’r Arddu, which was trapped 1,900 feet above sea level when the glaciers retreated. At the top, the train judders to a halt at a modern station and café that looks like an alien spacecraft lying on its side. From here, it’s a short walk to the summit where there are spectacular views – if you are lucky enough to hit a clear day – all the way to Ireland and Scotland. Meanwhile, down below to the east lies the sinuous shores of Llyn Llydaw, into which Sir Bedivere is said to have thrown Excalibur as King Arthur lay dying. You will also find Dolbadarn Castle, a romantic ruin above the lake of Llyn Peris, which was painted by JMW Turner. Snowdonia is a dramatic landscape wrapped up in mists and legend and the memory of it lingers long after you have headed home. For more stunning places to discover in the Welsh countryside, visit www.britain-magazine.com/wales www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: © CROWN COPYRIGHT/VISIT WALES
Could Cadair Idris have been the seat of a Welsh giant?
VISIT THE HELIX
HOME OF THE KELPIES Visit the word’s largest equine sculptures in the heart of Scotland
www.thehelix.co.uk
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Scotland
Spectacular castles
PHOTO: © ANDREW PICKETT/VISITBRITAIN LLMAN
Think of Scotland and it’s hard not to picture a land of mighty munros, crystal-clear lochs and great glens, punctuated with the romantic ruins of medieval strongholds. And rightly so. The restored prowess of Eilean Donan in the northwest Highlands, which marks the point at which three sea lochs meet, is one of the most famous views in Scotland, while who can forget the first time they saw the haunting remains of Urquhart Castle as it stood lonely on the banks of Loch Ness? Aberdeenshire in the northeast is known as Scotland’s Castle Country, not least for HM The Queen’s Scottish holiday home of Balmoral. Balmoral was created for Queen Victoria by Prince Albert and you can visit many of the sites linked to the royal couple to see what led Victoria to describe it as a “dear Paradise”. Perched atop volcanic rock and looming protectively over the Scottish capital, as it has done for 900 years, Edinburgh Castle is a true icon of Scotland. Visit during the annual Edinburgh Tattoo (pictured) for a remarkable display of pomp and ceremony, featuring a marching band and massed pipers wearing kilts – with all entertainment delivered with military precision.
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W ILD SOLITUDE
Lewis and Harris is Scotland’s largest island and home to some of the most remote settlements in Britain WORDS PETER WILLIAMSON
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D
esolate yet dramatic, windswept and wild, the ‘Long Island’, as it is known, comprises Lewis in the north and Harris in the south. It’s a fascinating mix of peat moorland and craggy mountains, white-sand beaches and turquoise bays, where hobbit-like houses hanker down in the face of blustery winds sweeping in off the Atlantic, blending almost imperceptibly with the rugged landscape. Although you can fly to Stornoway, the island’s small capital, from several airports in Britain, by far the most romantic way to get here is to follow the ‘Road to the Isles’ through the monumental grandeur of the Scottish Highlands. In Uig on the beautiful Isle of Skye, we board the MV Hebrides, one of Caledonian MacBrayne’s iconic car ferries, for the short crossing of the Minch to the tiny port of Tarbert on Harris. While on deck, my wife and I are thrilled to see a pod of dolphins briefly riding the bow wave, solitary gannets dive for fish and a pair of puffins hurry away, inches above the waves.
All too soon, the ferry disgorges its cargo, and we head north, initially climbing over the mountains of Harris, before descending to reach the empty, loch-sprinkled moorland of southern Lewis. The scene ahead is irresistibly wild, a vast region of low craggy hills and hundreds of small shimmering lochs, known as ‘knock and lochan’, stretches away into the distance. We spot a golden eagle (the first of many) soaring high above the heather-clad moor, where a group of red deer, silhouetted against the distant hills, eyes it cautiously. After passing the famous Callanish Stones our route takes us along a single-track road to our base for the week – the village of Gearrannan. This remarkable group of traditional blackhouses was a thriving crofting community as recently as the early 1970s when the last hardy inhabitants moved into more modern homes nearby. Rather than see them slowly be consumed by the land, a charitable trust was set up to preserve them for posterity, converting some into self-catering accommodation, one into a museum and another into a gift shop and café. Mairi MacRitchie, the affable
Gearrannan Blackhouse Village Above: Callanish standing stones Previous page: Luskentyre Sands, one of Britain’s most stunning beaches; the Lewis Chessmen
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PHOTOS: © KENNY LAM/VISITSCOTLAND/INFREQUENT_FLYER/ALAMY. ILLUSTRATION: © LAURA HALLETT
PHOTOS: © ANNA STOWE/TRAVELIBUK/AF ARCHIVE/ALAMY
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manager, who has worked with the trust for many years, shows us to Taigh Thormoid ‘an ‘ic Iain (‘The House of Norman, the son of Iain’) one of the oldest houses in the village. That night, as the setting sun casts its silver shimmers over the bay, we settle into our home from home, the log-burning stove casting a ruddy glow over us as we sink into voluptuous deep-red armchairs, while our stockinged feet luxuriate on the warmth of the modern underfloor heating. The stone walls are four-feet thick; the newly thatched roof is weighed down with stones from the nearby beach, which we can see from the only window. This is the epitome of cosiness, as if the house itself has taken us to its very bosom in a warm, loving embrace. Let the weather fronts streaming in off the Atlantic do as they will – The House of Norman will keep us safe. Drawing back the curtains, we awake to the glorious sight of white-tipped waves rolling into the bay, and crashing onto the shore, their effervescent spume causing the ancient volcanic rocks of Lewisian gneiss to glisten like black gold. The sound of the waves, an occasional shriek from a reeling oystercatcher – this is how this island must have sounded for hundreds of years. Lewis and Harris boasts some of the best beaches in Britain and even some that have been voted the best in
PHOTOS: ©GEOFF DU FEW/ALAMY/ANDREW BUTLER/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES
PHOTOS: © KENNY LAM/VISITSCOTLAND/PETER WATSON/LOOP IMAGES
Left: The Lewis Chessmen were found near Uig (below) in 1831 Right: Old crofter’s huts amid Lewis’s wild moorland
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The sound of the waves, an occasional shriek from a reeling oystercatcher, this is how the island must have sounded for centuries
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SCOTLAND Only the pure virgin wool from Cheviot and Scottish Blackface sheep may be used for Harris tweed (below)
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PHOTOS: © PAUL TOMKINS/VISITSCOTLAND/GARY DOAK/DANITA DELIMONT/ALAMY
the world. We drive south to explore the white sands of Uig, possibly the most famous beach of all, for it was here in 1831 that the Lewis Chessmen were found, having lain undiscovered beneath the sands since the days when Vikings ruled these islands. We see no one as we walk from the car park in the dunes to the southern end of the sands, before heading back across the machair – the low-lying grassy plain that backs the shore. Carpeted in an abundance of brightly coloured flowers all summer, these fertile meadows provide one of the rarest habitats for wildlife of anywhere in Europe. Each day we enjoy invigorating walks, revelling in the wild solitude of the island, and I soon come to find the seemingly barren moors of Lewis every bit as seductive as the mountains and white beaches of Harris. They are strangely familiar, too, as these evocative landscapes form the brooding backdrop to Peter May’s atmospheric trilogy of ‘Lewis’ novels: The Blackhouse, Lewis Man and The Chessmen. Before heading back to our cottage, we call in to the Abhainn Dearg (‘Red River’) Distillery – the first ‘legal’ distillery built in the Outer Hebrides for 200 years. Marko Tayburn set up the distillery in 2008, with the distinct aim of producing whisky using only natural products from the island. We have a tour of the quirky premises – they use old wooden stills and hand-label bottles – and enjoy a wee dram before leaving. Marko and his team are eagerly awaiting their first 10-year-old malt, which will be ready this year. The road home soon takes us past another foodie establishment that we’d heard about – the Scallop Shack on the small harbour at Miavaig. For more than 30 years, Lancastrians Julie and Dave Smith
SCOTLAND
THE PLANNER GETTING THERE Caledonian MacBrayne (Calmac) Ferries operate all year round, offering winter and summer timetables to Lewis and Harris, either from Uig on Skye to Tarbert (1h40) or from Ullapool to the capital Stornoway (2h30). Eastern Airways and Flybe both fly to Stornoway from a number of British airports. www.calmac.co.uk; www.easternairways.com WHERE TO STAY Gearrannan Blackhouse Village near Carloway in southern Lewis is a great base from which to head north to explore the cliffs and peat moors of Lewis or south to the mountains and beaches of Harris. www.gearrannan.com WHERE TO EAT The island has several excellent seafood restaurants including The Anchorage in Leverburgh (+44 (0)1859 520 225); Digby Chick in Stornoway (www.digbychick.co.uk); The Verandah at North Bragar (www.40northfoods.co.uk/the-verandah); and North Harbour Bistro on Scalpay (+44(0)1859 540218).
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FURTHER INFORMATION www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk
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have been hand-diving for scallops in the local bays and inlets, a sustainable and ethical way of harvesting this seafood delight. You can’t miss the shack – it glows in the sunshine with golden scallop shells, which cover its walls. Back at Gearrannan, fresh scallops gently sizzle in lashings of garlic butter on the stove, and while the sun sinks below the distant horizon, we sip on our recently acquired malt whisky, its wild peaty flavour leaving a wonderfully warming sensation on the throat – like the island, it’s certainly got a character of its own. Not half a mile away from Gearrannan stands the Carloway Harris Tweed mill and here we are given a guided tour by director Annie Macdonald, who explains, in her gently lilting brogue, how the raw wool is washed, dyed and blended using one of hundreds of age-old traditional ‘recipes’ to create the coloured yarns that are woven into the world-famous Harris tweed. To bear the trademark Orb of authenticity, Harris tweed must be “hand-woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the Outer Hebrides, and made from pure virgin wool, dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides”. On our final day, we call in to see Norman MacKenzie, one of the last Lewis weavers still using an old-fashioned Hattersley single-width handloom from Lancashire, which is housed in an outbuilding at the back of his home. We chat as the rhythmic clickety-clack of the machine heralds the creation of another length of Harris Tweed, the muted colours of which are inspired by the hues and shades of the island. It’s as if this special cloth was woven from the land itself. For more wonderful places to discover in the Scottish Highlands and islands, visit www.britain-magazine.com/scotland BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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PHOTOS: © KENNY LAM/VISITSCOTLAND/PETER WILLIAMSON
Top: Lewis moorland is known as ‘knock and lochan' Below: The island's capital , Stornoway
SOUTHWEST ENGLAND
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Northern Ireland Cultural renaissance
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PHOTO: Š NTPL/DAVID SELLMAN
PHOTO: Š NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOHN HAMMOND
From the 40,000 basalt columns that make up the Giant's Causeway on the north coast to the granite tors of the Mourne Mountains, Northern Ireland is best known for its wild and dramatic landscape. The capital, Belfast, however, has become quite the cultural hub in recent years, as it recovers from its turbulent past. A host of trendy restaurants and hotels have sprung up, while the fascinating Titanic Belfast museum, telling the story of the doomed ship, is often voted a top attraction. Head to Queen's Quarter to admire Queen's University, the Botanic Gardens and the Ulster Museum. One of the best ways to learn about the history of the area is to visit the International Peace Wall, a collection of murals created by the nationalist and unionist communities remembering the conflict. Wherever you go, from the cities to the villages, you will encounter the characteristic Northern Irish friendliness, demonstrated most of all in the numerous pubs, such as The Crown Bar in Belfast (pictured). Make sure you try the Guinness and listen some traditional folk music.
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Day trips from Belfast
Discover more of the stunning Northern Ireland landscape with these easy-to-follow inspirational itineraries WORDS LOUISE BASTOCK
Myths, legends and a magnificent coastline await day-trippers to the Giant’s Causeway and the Antrim Coast. Start out early from Belfast to beat the crowds to the Dark Hedges (about an hour’s drive from the city). This fantastical tunnel of twisted beech trees, a star location in Game of Thrones, makes for some epic photos. From here, continue to the coast and the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge in Ballycastle. Suspended from the cliff-face 100ft-high, test your mettle as you traverse the bridge once used to connect a remote fisherman’s cottage to the mainland. After that adrenaline-pumping action, treat yourself to a calming cream tea at the Wee Cottage Cafe beside Dunluce Castle, a 20-minute drive to the west, and take time to explore the 15th-century castle ruins. Imagination piqued by Dunluce’s ocean vistas, head back east to the Giant’s Causeway. Here, huge hexagonal basalt columns erupt from the Atlantic Ocean – legend has it these are the remnants of a causeway built to connect two fiercely quarrelling giants in Ireland and Scotland. Before heading back to Belfast, stop by the famous Bushmill’s Distillery – the oldest whiskey distillery in Ireland – for a quick tour and tasting. Then round off your day with dinner at Harry’s Shack. Tucked up amongst the dunes of one of Port Stewart’s most idyllic beaches, choose from mounds of cod and chips or delectably delicate, smoked salmon salads, before walking it all off with an after-dinner stroll along the sands. www.discovernorthernireland.com
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PHOTO: © NITB PHOTOGR APHIC LIBR ARY
THE GIANT’S CAUSEWAY (AND THE ANTRIM COAST)
NORTHERN IRELAND
Clockwise from top left: The Dark Hedges; the Giant’s Causeway; Dunluce Castle; Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridgeow Brodgar www.britain-magazine.com
NORTHERN IRELAND Clockwise from far left: Fermanagh; White Island; Marble Arch Caves
With ancient landscapes hewn by glacial activity and studded with shimmering lakes, a day trip to County Fermanagh is all about getting out into nature. Two hours west of Belfast, make for Lough Erne and a morning of exploring the idyllic islets dotting this bucolic backwater. Hire a small cruiser, water taxi or even a canoe to hop between the historical sites of Devenish Island and the curious carved stone figures of White Island and Boa Island. Wind your way to Enniskillen town centre for a lunch of sumptuous sandwiches and an eye-watering selection of sweet treats at the aptly named Jolly Sandwich Bar. Mop up the crumbs and grab some goodies to go before hiking the rugged peaks and meandering trails of the Cuilcagh Mountain Park. Amid the flora and fauna of this 2,500-hectare park you’ll discover Neolithic ruins, towering sandstone cliffs and even small marine fossil relics from when this region was covered by a tropical sea some 300 million years ago. Complete your Cuilcagh explorations with a trip to the Marble Arch Caves, south of Lower Lough Erne at the foot of the mountain. Subterranean boat tours last just over an hour, shuttling you through soaring chambers, underground rivers and serpentine passageways. A half-hour’s drive from the Marble Arch Caves is the Watermill Restaurant, which appears like a hobbit house on the shores of Upper Lough Erne. Marrying stunning lakeside views with mouthwatering IrishFrench fusion food, it’s a great spot for dinner. www.fermanaghlakelands.com www.britain-magazine.com
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PHOTOS: © NITB PHOTOGRAPHIC LIBRARY; ROBBIE SHONE
COUNTY FERMANAGH
NORTHERN IRELAND Clockwise from top: Murlough National Nature Reserve; William Kennedy Piping Festival; Castle Ward
Go in search of Irish heritage, old-time seaside towns and sweeping landscapes in County Armagh. Start your day in Newcastle, an hour’s drive from Belfast. This Victorian-era seaside resort town, gracefully set at the foot of the Mourne Mountains, has recently undergone a £14 million revamp, with a new waterfront promenade that shines as bright as the 5km of golden sands it backs onto. Grab some supplies from one of the many cafes (the awardwinning ice cream at the Strand Cafe & Bakery is a must), before heading for the hiking trails that lace the mighty Mourne mountain range. One of the classic routes is to track a section of the Mourne Wall that snakes impressively for 35km across the 15 summits. You’ll be dazzled by views of the sea, so it’s worth stopping at the Mourne Seafood Bar in Dundrum for a lunch of deep-blue delights. Next, journey up the coast to Downpatrick, said to be the burial place of Ireland’s patron saint, St Patrick. Stop in the St Patrick Centre, a gorgeous stone, glass and timber building, for a multimedia history lesson on the man himself, before heading to Down Cathedral to visit the spot where he is believed to rest. On your way back to Belfast, plan some pit stops at Castle Ward (an 18th-century manor house that served as the set of Winterfell from Game of Thrones) or Castle Espie (an immense Wildfowl and Wetlands centre). Alternatively, make a detour to the west and the quaint cathedral city of Armagh where you can check out the first edition of Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels in the Armargh Robinson Library or visit the Iron Age Navan Fort, just over 4km from the city centre. Both afternoon itineraries allow for dinner at the Bull and Ram in Ballynahinch as you loop back to the capital. This Grade I-listed Edwardian butcher’s shop is a sophisticated spot for prime salt beef or venison Wellington (vegetarian options are available), washed down with a glass of wine. www.visitmournemountains.co.uk
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PHOTO: © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOHN MILLER/NITB/PAUL KRUGMAN/ALAMY
COUNTY ARMAGH AND THE MOURNE MOUNTAINS
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PHOTOS: © PAUL TOMKINS/VISITSCOTL AND
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British Islands A breath of fresh air
PHOTO: © JEROME MURRAY – CC/ALAMY
Britain has more than 1,000 islands – although only about 200 are inhabited. Each has its own appeal, charm and character. Wildlife lovers have many to choose from, but Skomer, off the Pembrokeshire coast in Wales, is one of the loveliest. About half of all Manx shearwaters in the world live on the island, while the Atlantic puffin colony (pictured) is the biggest in southern Britain. The largest island off the coast of Wales is Anglesey, which boasts wide beaches, Victorian seaside towns and the village with the longest name in Britain (it’s shortened to Llanfairpwllgwyngyll). The Scottish islands are especially picturesque and serene. Arran, often described as ‘Scotland in miniature’ has beautiful beaches, mountains and woodlands. Islay, part of the Inner Hebrides, is the place for whisky lovers: it has eight distilleries. Not that England is left out. Highlights include the Isle of Wight, close to the Hampshire coast, which has been a popular retreat since Victorian times (you can tour Osborne House, Queen Victoria's palatial holiday home there). The Isle of Man, off the coast of Lancashire, meanwhile, has its own language (Manx), as well as some fabulous medieval castles.
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Artists at Home
Once the centre of the Victorian intellectual and artistic Freshwater Circle, the town of Freshwater on the Isle of Wight is undergoing a renaissance thanks to two major projects
Sunset at Freshwater Bay Inset: Julia Margaret Cameron and Alfred, Lord Tennyson www.britain-magazine.com
PHOTOS: © ROBERT MAYNARD/ALAMY/NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
WORDS KATHRYN LISTON
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s writer Anne Thackeray Ritchie said on a visit to Freshwater in 1865, “Everybody is either a genius, or a poet, or a painter or peculiar in some way.” With this mind, I visit Farringford, the family home of poet Alfred, Lord Tennyson, which opened late last year after a seven-year restoration project, and nearby Dimbola, the home of pioneering Victorian photographer, Julia Margaret Cameron, his friend. Lucy Kellet, Farringford’s interpretation and collections manager, shows me around the poet laureate’s home, where he lived from 1853 to 1892 with his wife Emily, and their sons Hallam and Lionel. See the replica apple pie in the dining room? This is what Tennyson ate for lunch and dinner every day; he also drank a bottle of port each night. A loving father, Tennyson ironed Edward Lear’s alphabet poems onto BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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PHOTOS: © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOHN MILLER
BRITAIN'S ISLANDS canvas for his sons – they hang in the schoolroom. “We wanted to shed new light on a figure who has a reputation for being quite austere, and show him as a witty, warm, humane person and to draw attention to his family life as well as his work,” says Kellet. In the dining room, where 90 per cent of the original cornice has survived, the grand table is laid out with a pink Victorian dinner service, as if Tennyson’s friends – the Prime Minister William Gladstone and artist GF Watts – are about to pop by. The “informal and unpretentious” host would happily carve meat for guests, adds Kellet. The discovery of a detailed 1860s inventory helped to recreate the home. An original blue Parthenon-design frieze in the reception room (now the blue room) was found beneath an 1856 newspaper used as lining paper. I picture the poet striding out over the downs each day wearing the original cloak and hat that are on display. Original clay pipes, a tobacco bowl and velvet smoking cap denote more daily routines. His original fossil collection will go on show this summer. We visit the library where he wrote the Idylls of the King, and the attic study, where he penned Maud. You can listen to a crackling voice recording of Tennyson reading The Charge of the Light Brigade in the study. Here, you’ll see Tennyson’s original writing desk, Windsor chair and two globes (terrestrial and celestial), loaned by the current Lord Tennyson. A spiral staircase, where this “shy” man used to escape unwanted visitors, leads off here. Afterwards, I head to the nearby Dimbola museum and gallery, the home of pioneering photographer, Julia Margaret Cameron. Here the literati of the Freshwater Circle would gather, including Tennyson, Charles Darwin, William Thackeray, Lewis Carroll and Edward Lear. Cameron’s great niece, Virgina Woolf, set her play, Freshwater, at Dimbola. Saved from demolition in the 1990s, Dimbola is also undergoing a makeover. This will include a Victorian artist’s studio and a dark room where courses on traditional techniques such as black and white film processing will be taught using vintage equipment. “We want it to be a living museum as if Mrs Cameron has just left the building,” says Dr Brian Hinton, the museum’s executive chairman. The museum houses a collection of her portraits, a timeline of her life, vintage cameras including a wet-plate collodion camera similar to the one Julia first used and roll-film box brownies. Cameron took up photography at the age of 48, quickly becoming famous for her pioneering close-ups and soft-focus techniques. Although she took 1,200 photographs during her 15 years at Dimbola (1860-1875), the failure rate was high and she would “hurl plates out of the window into the garden if she made a mistake,” says Dr Hinton. After a long day, I retire to my room at the North Hotel, West Cowes, where Dame Judi Dench slept when filming Victoria and Abdul at stately Osborne House. Now that’s tomorrow’s itinerary sorted out.
Clockwise from this image: The Tennyson Monument on Tennyson Down; the Ellen Terry Gallery at Dimbola; Tennyson’s dining room at Farringford
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BRITAIN'S ISLANDS
THE PLANNER GETTING THERE Wightlink runs frequent ferries from Lymington on England’s south coast to Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight. www.wightlink.co.uk FARRINGFORD Audio tours (must be booked) Weds to Sat at 11am and 2pm. Self-catering cottages available to rent in the grounds. www.farringford.co.uk DIMBOLA Open daily 10am-5pm (Apr-Sept); Weds-Sun 10am-3pm (Oct-Mar). www.dimbola.co.uk. QUEEN VICTORIA TRAIL Follow this dedicated trail, which includes key royal sites across the island, such as the church where Princess Beatrice married, HM The Queen’s favourite viewpoint, and the yacht club created for her. www.visitisleofwight.co.uk/ victorias-island-trail WHERE TO STAY North House in West Cowes offers fresh and modern rooms – many with sea views – with Egyptian cotton sheets and luxury toiletries. www.northhousecowes.co.uk
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DISTILLED FROM GRAIN PRECISELY CRAFTED IN ENGLAND
See where the magic happens at our multi-award winning distillery
Visitors welcome 7 days a week. Monday-Saturday 9:30 -17:00, Sundays & Bank holidays 10:00 -15:00. 90 minute distillery tours also available: Tuesday & Thursday 19:00, Saturday 11:30, 14:00, 16:00, Sunday 10:00, 12noon, 14:00. For more info, or to book a tour, see our website:
www.silentpooldistillers.com SILENT POOL DISTILLERS, SHERE ROAD, ALBURY, SURREY GU5 9BW
FOOD AND DRINK SPECIAL
FOODIE BRITAIN
For heritage restaurants, seasonal produce and the best tipples in Britain step this way WORDS LAURA SILVERMAN
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TOP FOOD EXPERIENCES
EAT IN A CASTLE
It’s not often you get the chance to eat in a 14th-century castle with original battlements and seven-foot-thick walls, making Langley Castle in Northumberland particularly appealing. Suits of armour, wrought-iron candelabras and gilt-framed portraits take their place in the restaurant. During the week, expect fine-dining versions of British favourites, from partridge garnished with thyme, and hake served with roasted cauliflower, to treacle tart and chocolate fondant. The Sunday roast is also heartily recommended: the meat mains come with all the trimmings (potatoes, parsnips and carrots), while desserts include a particularly tempting sticky toffee pudding. Set on a large woodland estate, the castle also offers rooms with four-poster beds. www.langleycastle.co.uk
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FOOD AND DRINK SPECIAL
TRY ‘THE WORLD’S BEST RESTAURANT’
The Black Swan in Oldstead, 20 miles north of York, was recently named the world’s best restaurant in the annual TripAdvisor awards. A charming and unassuming country pub, it is owned by the Banks family, who have lived and farmed in the area for generations. Today, it is Michelin-starred and offers a delicious and elaborate tasting menu with dishes such as raw Dexter beef, scallops with fermented celeriac, and blackened apple with rye. The drinks menu blends local ingredients. Look out for plum brandy made with bullace plums from the Oldstead Grange and damson gin using damsons from a nearby farm. www.blackswanoldstead.co.uk
DINE LIKE THE TUDORS
Great Fosters is a former Tudor hunting lodge in Surrey and is believed to be the first country house hotel in England. The restaurant setting alone will impress: the intimate Tudor Room is furnished with 16th-century tapestries, silk-lined walls and velvet chairs. Nor should the food disappoint: the kitchen was awarded a Michelin star and three AAA Rosettes a couple of years ago and still garners consistently tasty reviews. Sample dishes include Himalayan salt-aged venison with turnip, chanterelles and blackberry; and five British cheeses with truffled honey. The Estate Room is less formal but equally welcoming. www.greatfosters.co.uk
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PHOTOS: © PAUL MASSEY/ALLARD SCHAGER/ALAMY
Clockwise from this image: The White Swan & Chophouse; Rules, Covent Garden; oysters at Wiltons; The Punchbowl
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FOOD AND DRINK SPECIAL HISTORIC LONDON RESTAURANTS
Combine a meal out with a trip back in time at one of London’s historic restaurants. Pinning down the oldest restaurant in the capital is a challenge because the word itself only appeared in the 1820s. But before that, lots of pubs and street stalls in London sold food – oysters and pies being particularly popular. Today, a wealth of restaurants and pubs proudly display their roots, serving British classics in charming settings. Founded in 1798 by Thomas Rule as an oyster bar, Rules in Covent Garden has a strong claim as one of the oldest places still around. Offering traditional British dishes (game, as well as more oysters and pies), it has served a long list of illustrious diners in its time: from Charles Dickens and Laurence Olivier to Clark Gable and Charlie Chaplin. Look out for its wittily-named cocktails including Kate Middleton’s ‘Royal 29’ with No2 Gin and Finlandia Vodka, and Meghan’s ‘Royal 19’ with Cuvee Champagne. Wiltons in Jermyn Street also started life selling shellfish, back in an even earlier 1742 (it celebrates its 275th birthday this year). Initially, it was a stall, before becoming a fishmongers’ and then a seafood restaurant. It gained its first Royal Warrant in 1836 for supplying oysters to the Royal household; Queen Victoria was later said to be a fan. Today, it offers an oyster bar as well as upmarket takes on other British dishes, from lamb cutlets with mint jelly to bread and butter pudding with vanilla custard. Staking a claim as one of the oldest pubs is The Punchbowl in Mayfair, which was founded in 1729. Selling itself as ‘a slice of cosy countryside in the heart of the city’, framed cartoons, Toby jugs and candlelight furnish this Grade II-listed Georgian building. Tuck into ale-battered fish and chips or hearty burgers with hand-cut chips in the pub area, or book a table in the elegant dining room for a special occasion. For more comfort food, equally well-executed, head to The White Swan Pub & Chophouse in the City of London. Meat from heritage breeds raised at British farms is the focus of this chophouse, a 16th-century institution embracing feasts, good company, fine wines and ales. The menu, which boasts ‘gutsy flavours’, includes venison mince and turnips, Hebridean hogget with kale and gravy, and Longhorn brisket steak with bone marrow mash. There are fish and vegan options, too. Exposed brickwork and vintage Champagne racks add a touch of indulgence to the surroundings. www.rules.co.uk; www.wiltons.co.uk; www.punchbowllondon.com; www. thewhiteswanlondon.com BRITAIN | THE 2017 GUIDE
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FOOD AND DRINK SPECIAL SAMPLE THE CATCH OF THE DAY
Beach House in Oxwich holds the coveted title of AA Restaurant of the Year for Wales 2018. It’s worth a trip just for the setting – the relaxed restaurant offers sweeping views of the golden beach of Oxwich Bay, but the food will make a favourable impression, too. Led by head chef and Welshman Hywel Griffith, the menu features dishes such as brill with creamed kale and red wine fish sauce and hand-dived scallop with crispy pork shoulder – with many ingredients from local suppliers. Can’t decide what to have? There’s also an eight-course tasting menu. www.beachhouseoxwich.co.uk TAKE A FOOD TOUR
Under an hour from London, Brighton is a haven for foodies. Brighton Food Tours, run by locals Angela Brightwell and Catriona Lane, are peppered with the kind of independent, quirky shops and cafes that make up the seaside city. The itineraries vary, but the VIB (Very Independent Brighton) walking tour has taken in such delights as Brighton Sausage Company, a cheese and meet deli; Smorl’s Houmous, Falafel and Salad Bar with organic, vegan ingredients; the Bluebird Tea Company, selling strawberry split and cherry Bakewell teas; and Rainbow Organic Chocolates, an artisan chocolatier. Bring empty luggage. www.brightonfoodtours.com
Clockwise from this image: Beach House, Oxwich; HiSbe, Brighton; Rock Rose Gin; a pot still at the Cotswolds Distillery
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FOOD AND DRINK SPECIAL
GIN
PLYMOUTH GIN
A crisp gin and tonic has long been the classic British drink. Black Friars Distillery in Plymouth, Devon, is the oldest working gin distillery in England. It has been making Plymouth Gin using the original recipe since 1793, combining juniper berries, coriander seed, orange peel, lemon peel, green cardamom, angelica root and orris root. In medieval times, the building was a monastery, while it later housed the Pilgrim Fathers, before sailing off to the US. You can even distil your own gin. www.plymouthdistillery.com COTSWOLDS DRY GIN
Cotswolds Dry Gin, produced at the Cotswolds Distillery in Shipston-on-Stour near Stratfordupon-Avon, is considerably younger: the gin was launched in 2014. Yet the distillery, housed in a pretty cottage, still feels quintessentially English. Cotswolds Dry Gin is distilled with juniper, coriander seed, angelica root, local lavender, bay leaf, fresh lime, pink grapefruit, cardamom, black peppercorn in a 500-litre copper pot still. Tours end with a welcome tasting. www.cotswoldsdistillery.com THE LAKES GIN
The Lakes Gin is surrounded by the peaks and fells of the Lake District National Park. The only gin from Cumbria, it combines local juniper with 13 other botanicals from the area. Originally a Victorian cattle farm, the distillery, which opened in 2014, has extensive grounds – now home to a herd of alpacas. Pop into the restaurant after a tour for lunch, dinner or tea, or drop into the shop to stock up on rhubarb and rosehip gin liqueur. www.lakesdistillery.com
PHOTOS: Š TOM ELMS PHOTOGRAPHY/PHIL BOORMAN PHOTOGRAPHY LTD
ROCK ROSE GIN
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Almost three-quarters of the gin drunk in the UK comes from Scotland. Rock Rose Gin is produced at Dunnet Bay Distillery. The distillery is close to wild coasts and landscape yielding the rose root and sea buckthorn for its gin. Keen to get the recipe just right, the founders of Rock Rose Gin created its unique blend of botanicals after 55 experiments. A few sips will win you over. www.dunnetbaydistillers.co.uk SILENT POOL DISTILLERS Silent Pool Distillers is based on the Duke of Northumberland's beautiful Albury Estate, in the Surrey Hills. A key member of the skilled and enthusiastic team is The Major, a vintage wood-fired steam boiler made especially for the distillers. Blends include Albury Limited Release Strawberry Gin Cordial and English Rose Finest Dry Gin.
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FOOD AND DRINK SPECIAL Glenfiddich Distillery Below: Barrels at Penderyn Distillery
WHISKY GLENFIDDICH
Scotland boasts more than 100 distilleries – whisky is its national drink after all – and the Glenfiddich Distillery is one of the largest. Founded in 1886, it produces 10 million litres of spirit a year. Tours include the opportunity to combine different cask samples of Glenfiddich and take home a bottle of your own creation. The Malt Barn Bar also offers a huge choice of 12- to 50-year-old single malts, vintage reserves and rare whiskies no longer in production. One for enthusiasts and connoisseurs. www.glenfiddich.com PENDERYN
PHOTO: © JOHN POWELL ALBURY VISUAL SERVICES
Penderyn whisky was launched on St David’s Day 2004 in the presence of HRH Prince Charles. The distillery, owned by the Welsh Whisky Company, is based on the southern corner of the beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park, and is one of the few remaining independent distilleries. Tours take in the mill, the mash tub and the copper-pot stills – one of which was designed by Dr David Faraday, a relative of the 19th-century scientist Michael Faraday. Tasting the award-winning single malts is also encouraged. www.penderyn.wales
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FOOD AND DRINK SPECIAL
BEER & WINE FULLER’S GRIFFIN BREWERY
Fuller’s Griffin Brewery in Chiswick, west London, goes back to 1828 and is the home of London Pride, one of the UK’s most popular beers. Tours take visitors behind the scenes and present the history of British beer-making from the Middle Ages, when it was brewed at abbeys and independent alehouses, through to the time of Oliver Cromwell, when large households would brew their own, and on to the modern breweries still around today. Tours also include ‘a tutored tasting’. www.fullers.co.uk
PHOTOS: © IAN G DAGNALL/ALAMY
CHAPEL DOWN WINERY
Ever wondered where the top restauranteurs get their wine? Chapel Down Winery in Tenterden, Kent supplies Gordon Ramsay and Jamie Oliver, as well as the Royal Opera House and No 10 Dining Street. Tours, which run from March to November, include a walk around its 22-acre vineyard, as well as a whizz around its winery. Chapel Down also produces beers and ciders using original techniques. The Swan restaurant on site, which has been awarded two AA Rosettes and a Michelin Bib
Gourmand, offers stunning views across the vineyards and countryside. www.chapeldown.com DENBIES WINE ESTATE
This family-run vineyard in Dorking, Surrey, offers far-reaching views of the North Downs, best enjoyed on one of the outdoor winery tours (aboard a petit-train no less), during which you can try a glass of Denbies sparkling wine. Indoor tours take you through each step of wine production, from the vine to the bottle, and end with a tasting in the cellars. The Gallery Restaurant is also recommended: it offers seasonal dishes paired, of course, with complementary wines. The Denbies Vine & Dine Grape Picking Experience each October includes grape picking, a walking tour of the vineyard, lunch and refreshments, and will leave you feeling like an aficionado. www.denbies.co.uk 28O-50O WINE WORKSHOP & KITCHEN
Named after the latitudes contained many of the world’s vineyards, 28˚ -50˚ offers a changing list of
more than 30 wines – half red, half white. One of three London sites, the Mayfair branch on Maddox Street offers a dining room, complete with marble tables and vintage-style lamps, and a cocktail bar, with a reclaimed timber bar and leather stalls, downstairs. Look out for the wine cocktails, including the Grape Gin Martini with Chambery Dolin; Kir Imperial with Chambord, raspberries and Champagne. Expect classy food to match: oysters, Scottish rib-eye steak and lobster. The other branches are in the City and Marylebone. www.2850.co.uk
The Swan at Chapel Down Winery Above: 28˚-50˚ Wine Workshop and Kitchen, Marylebone
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FOOD AND DRINK SPECIAL
TEA
AFTERNOON TEA IN LONDON
Afternoon tea is almost obligatory when you’re visiting Britain, but where to go for the finest finger sandwiches, warm scones and delicate pastries? For the classic English experience, take your pick from Claridge’s (with its choice of 24 loose leaf teas), The Ritz (served in the elegant Palm Court with its chandeliers and mirrors), The Savoy (where tea will be accompanied by a serenading pianist) and Fortnum & Mason (before popping into the shop and taking home a stock of supplies to keep you in tea for the rest of the year). For something a little different, we can recommend Rosewood London (with its art-inspired menu) and Bea’s Cake Boutique (with its particularly indulgent cupcakes). www.claridges.co.uk, www.fairmont.com/ savoy-london, www.theritzlondon.com, www.fortnumandmason.com, www. rosewoodhotels.com, www.beas.london TWININGS
PHOTOS: © STUDIO APPETIT
Art-themed tea at Rosewood London Above: Traditional tea at The Savoy
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Founded in 1706, Twinings is one of the world’s oldest and most recognisable tea brands. In 1837, Queen Victoria granted Twinings its first Royal Warrant and it has supplied every British monarch ever since. Hundreds of teas are sold in store, from traditional English breakfast and Earl Grey to more unusual blends such as green tea with cranberry and lime, and turmeric with orange and star anise. Twinings has also just launched its first cold brew. You can taste teas at its Tea Bar, browse the small museum of Twinings memorabilia or enrol on a two-hour tea masterclass to learn about different varieties and brewing methods. www.twinings.co.uk
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OPEN DAILY from APRIL to OCTOBER
Enjoy a stroll through history at Woburn Abbey •
Explore the award-winning, historic gardens •
Treat yourself at the Duchess’ Tea room •
NEW EXHIBITION: Humphry Repton: Art & Nature for the Duke of Bedford 01525 290333 www.woburnabbey.co.uk
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DIRECTORY
BRITISH DAYS OUT
With our 2018 directory, you can explore the best of Britain's attractions to ensure you make the most of your trip
KEY TO SYMBOLS Information Shop Plant sales Corporate hospitality/functions Disabled access Refreshments/cafĂŠ/tearoom Restaurant
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elcome to the 39-page BRITAIN Guide 2018 directory. After being inspired by the features in the rest of the guide, you can now pick your favourite destinations and plan your perfect holiday. To make your preparations even easier and more enjoyable, we have divided this advertisement directory into geographical areas, so that you can see at a glance the best of what each region has to offer. Whether you want to explore a UNESCO heritage site, go on a culinary tour, saunter around a stately home and its gardens or catch the latest gallery or museum exhibition, we have just the thing for you.
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Guided tours Audio tours Parking available Education/school visits Accommodation Civil wedding licence Open all year Special events Accept euros
DIRECTORY
DIRECTORY 142 LONDON 150 SOUTHWEST ENGLAND 154 SOUTHEAST ENGLAND 160 HEART OF ENGLAND 166 EAST OF ENGLAND
PHOTO: © BANANA PANCAKE/ALAMY
170 NORTHERN ENGLAND 173 WALES 176 SCOTLAND
East of England
177 NORTHERN IRELAND 178 BRITAIN'S ISLANDS BRITAIN | 2018 GUIDE
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LONDON
Van Marle Chauffeur Service W: theexecutivecarservice.com T: +44 (0) 207 846 0176
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f visiting London for pleasure, with family and friends or after a tough week of business, Van Marle provides luxury chauffeur driven tours of London’s best sights. At Van Marle, we have a team of professional chauffeurs who regularly work throughout London and across the UK. Our expert chauffeur team pride themselves on offering a highly professional service. Whenever we undertake any form of chauffeuring work, we always go the extra mile to ensure we not only meet but exceed client expectations. We provide a vast range of chauffeur services. If you’re in need of a chauffeur, then please don’t hesitate to get in touch with Van Marle. Please visit our extensive website at www.theexecutivecarservice.com
For a key to symbols please see page 141
LONDON
Silent Pool Distillers Shere Road, Albury, Surrey GU5 9BW www.silentpooldistillers.com T: +44 (0) 1483 229136
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ilent Pool Distillers is nestled in the heart of the beautiful rural landscape of the Surrey Hills. Using water from the spring-fed Silent Pool, and the finest 24 botanicals, they hand-craft their award winning Silent Pool Gin, liqueurs, vodka and eau de vies and bottle them on-site. Visitors are welcome 7 days a week. Or come along and immerse yourself into the world of Silent Pool Gin with a 90 minute deep-dive distillery tour, covering all aspects of production including product sampling. Pre-booking is essential. For more information or to book a tour see the website: www.silentpooldistillers.com. OPEN: Open 7 days a week, Monday – Saturday 9:30am to 5pm, Sundays and Bank holidays 10am – 3pm. ADMISSION: Admission is free. 90 minute distillery tours also available: Tuesday and Thursday 7pm, Saturday 11:30, 2pm, 4pm. Pre-booking is essential. Adults: £15 including a £5 voucher.
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LONDON
Royal Museums Greenwich Park Row, Greenwich, London SE10 9NF www.rmg.co.uk T: +44 (0) 20 83126608
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oyal Museums Greenwich is home to the Royal Observatory, Cutty Sark, National Maritime Museum and the Queen’s House. All are located within the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Maritime Greenwich, one of London’s most charming areas. A top 10 UK visitor attraction, Royal Museums Greenwich is the place to discover sea and space exploration, British heritage, royal history, art and pioneering architecture. Stand astride the renowned Meridian Line at the home of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) at the Royal Observatory. Come on board Cutty Sark, once the fastest sailing ship in the world and now an award-winning visitor attraction. After taking the helm at the ship’s wheel, you can enjoy afternoon tea beneath the hull. The National Maritime Museum is the world’s largest maritime museum, where you can explore the life of one of our great naval heroes in the Nelson, Navy, Nation gallery. The Great British Seaside exhibition features photographs by Martin Parr, which runs from until 30 September 2018. You can also visit the Queen’s House, an architectural masterpiece from the 17th-century and marvel as its internationally renowned art collection, including the world famous Elizabeth I, the Armada Portrait. OPEN: Daily, 10am-5pm ADMISSION: Visit the website for details of tickets to individual attractions and passes. Book tickets online to save
Greenwich Royal Tours Greenwich, London SE10 9LW www.greenwichroyaltours.com T: +44 (0) 800 1804565
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reenwich Royal Tours offer small group guided walking tours in Greenwich and central London. The tours are personable, informative and always fun. They offer a variety of tours of different lengths around Greenwich. Their flagship tour is the Best of Greenwich Day Tour, which takes in the Cutty Sark, Greenwich Royal Observatory, National Maritime Museum, Queen’s House and Old Royal Naval College. The tour includes all admission fees, as well as a lovely pub lunch by the River Thames. They also offer other small group walking tours in Greenwich such as Greenwich Highlights Half Day Tour, Greenwich Food Tour and their new Greenwich Peninsula Tour. This latest tour is the first of its kind to take visitors to the many fascinating venues in the Greenwich Peninsula and Canary Wharf. Greenwich Royal Tours offer three speciality tours in central London as well: the Law in London Tour, Shakespeare in London Tour and Secret Gardens of London Tour. Their Gardens tour is unique in all of central London. Venues include the Rose Garden at the Actors’ Church in Covent Garden, the Sir John Soane’s Museum and the amazing Chelsea Physic Garden. The tour features a wonderful high tea at The Orangery at Kensington Palace. Just like their Greenwich counterparts, the tours are small group walking tours with a maximum of eight people. So come along with us on your next trip to London and be treated like royalty! OPEN: Tours run daily except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year’s Day
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LONDON
Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, Battersea, London SW11 4NJ www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk T: +44 (0) 20 79245826
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umbo rats, Aylesbury ducks and yellow-crowned parakeets are just some of the new species you can see at Battersea Park Children’s Zoo in 2018. There’s animal-themed fun too, including quiz trails, puppet making, bug days and more. With action-packed playgrounds, a tractor, fire engine and fabulous mammals, reptiles and birds, it’s one big wild world of adventure. OPEN: Open all year except 25 and 26 December. Spring/summer 10am-5.30pm. Autumn/winter 10am-4.30pm or dusk. Advised last admission is half an hour before closing time ADMISSION: See the website for details
Coach House Rentals www.chsrentals.com T: +44 (0) 20 83553192
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ive like a local. Stay in one of our vacation rentals and stay in a real London home – you will have the place to yourself and we provide a full concierge service, including arranging an airport transfer. With some 50 hand-picked London holiday rental properties and the services of our experienced reservation team, we can help you choose what’s right for you, taking the hassle and frustration out of choosing and booking your ideal London holiday home. Join the many 1,000s of happy guests we’ve looked since 2001.
Regent’s Canal Waterbus
Fun London Tours
Little Venice W9/Camden Lock Market NW1 www.londonwaterbus.co.uk T: +44 (0) 20 74822660
www.funlondontours.com E: info@funlondontours.com
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ravel on traditional canal boats on the historic Regent’s Canal. From the elegant tranquility of Little Venice, through the Maida Hill tunnel, the quiet fringes of Regent’s Park, and London Zoo to the lively bustle of Camden Lock Market. Trips one way, either direction, or return with stopovers for shopping, picnics or with entry to London Zoo at our own gate. No booking required, just turn up and pay on board. OPEN: Daily service 10am-5pm April to September. Reduced service October to March. ADMISSION: adults from £9, child £7.50, senior £7.50
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oin a small friendly group of independent tour guides who focus on the forgotten and fun side of London. Catering to first time visitors and regulars, the tours are unique and acclaimed, including: Secret London, Grime & Punishment and Changing the Guard. The walks are historical, family friendly and delivered with great enthusiasm by guides who really love this amazing city. OPEN: Tours operate throughout the year at various times of the day. Please consult the website for further information. ADMISSIONS: Prices range from: adults £12, concessions £10. 15% discount for our readers using the code DISBRIT15.
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The Postal Museum C and Mail Rail 16-20 Phoenix Place, London, WC1X 0DA www.postalmuseum.org T: +44 (0) 300 0300700
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elebrating the surprising and quirky history of Britain’s earliest social network, The Postal Museum, which opened to great acclaim in 2017, leads visitors through five centuries of world-class curiosities and offers a different perspective on some of the world’s most significant historical events. Across the street from the museum, situated in Clerkenwell, is a subterranean world that – up until now – remained hidden from the general public. Visitors descend into the former engineering depot of the century-old Post Office railway and board a miniature train designed to transport them through its tiny tunnels. Mail Rail’s interactive train ride lasts approximately 15 minutes, stopping at largely unchanged station platforms where an impressive audio visual display gives insight into how the railway kept mail moving through London for 22 hours a day. Thinking of bringing the kids? Sorted! The Postal Play Space is an incredible miniature world of mail designed to keep children up to eight-years-old entertained and gives them the chance to play at being mail workers themselves. OPEN: Every day 10am - 5pm. Closed 24 to 26 December ADMISSION: adults: £17.05, children: £10.45, concessions: £15.40
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LONDON
Houses of Parliament Westminster, London, SW1A 0AA www.parliament.uk/visit T: +44 (0) 20 72194114
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ascinating audio or fully guided tours of one of London’s most iconic buildings, the Houses of Parliament, offer visitors a unique combination of 1,000 years of history, modern-day politics, and stunning examples of art and architecture. Both tours follow the route taken by the Queen at the State Opening of Parliament; from the Queen’s Robing Room, through the Royal Gallery and Prince’s Chamber, and into the Lords Chamber. This part of the tour offers an impressive bounty of treasures, including elaborate ceilings and many historic paintings. Tours then move on to Central Lobby, Members’ Lobby and one of the voting lobbies before entering the Commons Chamber; scene of many lively political debates. Passing through St Stephen’s Hall, the tours end in 900-year-old Westminster Hall where Guy Fawkes and King Charles I were put on trial. As an optional extra, afternoon tea can be taken in elegant surroundings overlooking the Thames. OPEN: Saturdays throughout the year and most week days during holiday periods including Christmas, Easter and the summer. Entry is on a timed ticket basis. Check website for details. ADMISSION: Audio tours: adults £18.50; concessions £16. One child’s audio tour free with each paying adult, otherwise £7.50. Guided tours: adults £25.50; concessions £21; children £11. Higher prices are charged for tickets purchased on the same day as the tour. Afternoon tea: £29, in addition to the tour ticket. Concession rates apply to over 60s, students, and UK armed forces. Discounted group rates available.
The Royal Air Force Museum Grahame Park Way, Colindale, London NW9 5LL www.rafmuseum.org T: +44 (0) 20 8205 2266
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oming summer 2018: A greater FREE day out for all. Make 2018, the RAF’s Centenary Year, the year to visit the Royal Air Force Museum London. We offer a fun, entertaining day out for all the family. For 2018 we are offering visitors to our London site the following: Three new permanent exhibitions New interactive experiences - charges apply New restaurant, café and shop New beautifully landscaped site New outdoor play area for children For further details, please visit our website. Come for a flying visit and stay the day! OPEN: Entry is free and we’re open daily from 10.00am.
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Jewish Museum London Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert Street, Camden Town, London NW1 7NB www.jewishmuseum.org.uk T: +44 (0) 20 72847384
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he Jewish Museum is an inspirational place for people of all ages, backgrounds and faiths to explore British Jewish culture, heritage and identity. The Jewish Museum was founded in 1932 by Professor Cecil Roth, Alfred Rubens and Wilfred Samuel. Originally located in Woburn House in Bloomsbury, it moved to an elegant Victorian listed building in Camden Town in 1994. Set against a spacious and modern architectural backdrop, with displays across four permanent galleries, the museum houses one of the world’s finest collections of Judaica and reflects the vibrancy of Jewish history and culture. Through objects, art, photographs, and film footage, as well as personal stories and interactive displays, the galleries bring the Jewish story to life, placing it in a wider context of British history. The galleries are designed to engage children, enabling them to explore the displays through hands-on activities, games, costumes and trails. Take a break during your visit in the café and enjoy fresh sandwiches, bagels, soup, or a vegetarian dish of the day. OPEN: Daily 10am-5pm (apart from Friday, 10am to 2pm). ADMISSION: adults: £7.50, concessions: £6.50, children (5-16): £3.50.
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LONDON
smallcarBIGCITY
Auto-International Car Rental
www.smallcarBIGCITY.com T: +44 (0) 20 78396737
www.auto-international.com T: +44 (0) 20 8764s6490
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mallcarBIGCITY is an award-winning company that showcases the hidden gems of London, with a team of knowledgeable private chauffeurs and a fleet of classic Mini Coopers to take you around town. The company believes that visitors to London should feel like locals. Some of the best parts of London are tucked away down quirky back streets; not only is a classic Mini a motoring icon, it is the perfect size to squeeze down them. Since its launch in 2009 the company has taken over 25,000 happy customers around the swinging streets of this ancient city. It has grown to cater for corporate events (#FindTheGap), outdoor media advertising campaigns, wedding hire and event hire for television and films.
Kendall Cars 34 Aldershot Road, Guildford, Surrey, GU2 8AF www.kendallcars.com T: +44 (0) 800 770007
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family owned company with over 30 years experience in the UK vehicle rental market. We are able to offer the very best deal in car rental throughout the UK. All our UK rentals come with a free second driver and unlimited mileage. We offer a unique “Meet & Greet” service at London’s Heathrow and Gatwick airports. We guarantee to have you on your way in under 10 minutes from meeting in the arrivals hall. We can also deliver the car to your hotel or contact address. All our cars are newly registered and come with 24-hour breakdown and recovery service. Cars can be taken overseas but must be returned to the UK. One-way rentals between any UK location available. For a fast and friendly quote please contact us now or go to our easy to use website.
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re you planning on touring Britain to see the sights? Book a vehicle to suit your needs and tour the country in style at your own pace. Kendall Cars provide vehicles to accommodate all budgets and any number of passengers. Choose from an impressive range from its large fleet of more than 1,300 vehicles. Models range from the small economy size car, medium size and even up to the prestige Mercedes C-Class. They also offer MPV’s like the large seven-seater vehicles and 9 or 14 seater minibuses for more space. For ultimate British style and fun, you can even book from their BMW Mini range. Automatic and manual vehicles are both on offer. Kendall Cars can also organise a driver to meet you at Heathrow or Gatwick airport. This means you won’t have to wait in a queue for taxis, offering a quick and easy start to your holiday. Rates have no hidden extras, and include low deposits and the option of a free additional driver. All the car hire quotes include tax and fully comprehensive insurance – arranged for you. Kendall Cars has been providing its rental service since 1969. It now has 12 branches throughout Surrey, Hampshire, Canterbury and South London. Visit the website for more information or call today to book your vehicle.
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LONDON
London Canal Museum
Oxford Punting
12-13 New Wharf Road, London N1 9RT www.canalmuseum.org.uk T: +44 (0) 20 77130836
The Old Horse Ford, High Street, Oxford, OX1 4AU www.oxfordpunting.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1865 202643
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he museum tells the story of London’s colourful canals, their boats, cargos and horses, and of the families who lived afloat to make a meagre living from carrying goods. Enjoy the traditional artwork of “roses and castles”, too. A second theme is the Victorian ice trade, for which the building was built in the 1860s. Two huge ice wells remain beneath the floor and visitors can peer down and marvel at the way ice from Norway kept London’s milk cool.
SOUTHWEST ENGLAND
OPEN: All year, Tuesday -Sunday and bank holiday Mondays, 10am-4.30pm. Late opening to 7.30pm on the first Thursday of each month ADMISSION: adults £5; concessions: £4; children half-price, family £12.50
isit Oxford’s Magdalen Bridge Boathouse to hire a traditional Oxford punt, rowing boat or pedalo and enjoy cruising along Oxford’s stunning River Cherwell. Situated underneath Magdalen College Tower, at the lower end of Oxford’s world famous high street, you will find Magdalen Bridge Boathouse. Here you can hire traditionally crafted punts, rowing boats and pedalos or spoil yourself by hiring a Chauffeured boat. We can also supply a pre-ordered picnic hamper with your chauffeured punt if requested. You can hire a boat for just an hour or if you want to make a day of it, take a picnic and stay out on the river as long as you like, returning the punt at least half an hour before sunset. OPEN: 7 days a week from the 1st of February (weather permitting) to the 30th of November, between 9.30am – 9.00pm (or 1 hour before sunset)
Gloucester Cathedral
Museum of East Asian Art
College Green, Gloucester, Gloucestershire, GL1 2LX www.gloucestercathedral.org.uk T: +44 (0) 1452 528095
12 Bennett Street, Bath BA1 2QJ www.meaa.org.uk T: +44 (0) 1225 464640
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BOOKING REQUIRED
OPEN: Every day 8am-6pm. Check website for closures ADMISSION: free
his is the only museum in the UK solely dedicate to arts and culture from East and South East Asia, with a collection of almost 2,000 objects representing over 7,000 years of artistry and craftsmanship. Just a few meters off The Circus in central Bath, the museum is a sanctuary of tranquility in a busting World Heritage city. OPEN: Tuesday to Saturday, 10am to 5pm; Sunday, 12pm to 5pm. Closed on Monday, Bank Holiday Mondays, Christmas to New Year. Last admission at 4.15 pm. ADMISSION: adults: £5; seniors: £4; children under 16 and full-time students (with ID): free.
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BOOKING REQUIRED
ollowing a year of transformation, a whole host of new, interactive events and welcoming outdoor spaces are waiting to be explored. Visit the beautiful fan-vaulted Cloisters, the magnificent Great East Window, the Whispering Gallery and the tomb of King Edward II. You can also see where Harry Potter, Wolf Hall and Sherlock were filmed. It’s going to be a great year and we look forward to seeing you soon...
For a key to symbols please see page 141
SOUTHWEST ENGLAND
Azure Luxury Tours The Cotswolds and beyond www.azureluxurytours.co.uk E: david@azureluxurytours.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1242 510000 Phone from USA: 011 44 1242 510000 Kathy and Kent If we had to choose a word to describe our experience with Azure it would be perfection! From the first enquiry to our tour-ending good-byes in London, David was prompt, intuitive and professional. He truly listened to our desires and customised a tour through the Cotswolds and beyond, that exceeded our expectations. Thanks for a brilliant time David. We simply cannot thank you enough.
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zure Luxury Tours offer you a Tour of the Cotswolds and beyond, combining an Expert Guide, a Luxury Car and a Bespoke Itinerary. Your Expert Guide will always be the owner of Azure, David, who has built-up a solid reputation with clients such as Kathy and Kent, who were so pleased with his service that they wrote to say so. Other clients have included celebrities, sportsmen and women, and even a reigning king and queen. Your Luxury Car will be David’s BMW X5, which combines exceptional luxury with reassuring four-wheel-drive. Its commanding seating position is ideal for viewing the passing sights as you tour around. Its equipment includes full wifi capability for both your phone and the two onboard iPads, which can be used to track progress on Google Maps and access information about historical sites being visited. Your Bespoke itinerary will be personally created by David, so that it focuses on your interests and blends in with where you are staying. David works with hotels in the Cotswolds, such as Ellenborough Park, Dormy House and The Lygon Arms; as well as collecting clients from the top London hotels, such as Claridges and The Dorchester. Favourite destinations include Cotswold villages, Oxford, Blenheim Palace and Highclere Castle.
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NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES / MARK BOLTON
Lacock Abbey, Fox Talbot Museum & Village
The Museum of Army Flying
Lacock, NR Chippenham, Wiltshire SN15 2LG www.nationaltrust.org.uk/lacock T: +44 (0)1249 730459
Middle Wallop, Stockbridge, Hampshire SO20 8DY www.armyflying.com T: +44 (0) 1264 784421
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here are 800 years of history to explore at Lacock Abbey; from its beginnings as a medieval nunnery, to the Victorian family home that saw the invention of the first photographic negative, and now a popular film location, famous from Harry Potter and Wolf Hall. The Fox Talbot Museum tells the history of photography while the picturesque village, recognisable from Pride and Prejudice and Cranford, is full of lovely local shops. OPEN: 10.30am-5.30pm until 29 Oct; 11am-4pm from 30 Oct (Abbey Great Hall only open at weekends, 29 Oct-26 Nov and Thurs-Sun, 30 Nov-31 Dec). Closed 25-26 Dec and 1 Jan 2018. ADMISSION: adults £14.10, children £7.00, National Trust members and under 5s free.
he Museum of Army Flying tells the exciting story of ‘soldiers in the air’ and allows visitors a fascinating and imaginative glimpse into army aviation. With over 35 aircraft, an array of memorabilia and a great location next to a busy Army Air Corps airfield, visitors can regularly see Lynx and Apache helicopters flying from inside the Apache Café. OPEN: Daily 10am - 4.30pm (except Christmas Day and Boxing Day). ADMISSION: adults: £12, children: £7, seniors: £9.
Buscot Park Nr. Faringdon, Oxfordshire SN7 8BU T: +44 (0) 1367 240932 www.buscot-park.com
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Bodmin General Station, Bodmin, Cornwall PL31 1AG www.bodminrailway.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1208 73555
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his Cornish steam railway is the perfect station stop for families, groups and enthusiasts and visitors of all ages. Journey aboard a heritage steam or diesel train, magically transporting you back to a previous era of travel. Explore six and a half miles of track with a Freedom of the Line ticket – pay once and travel all day. OPEN: Selected dates throughout the year, regularly from March to October. Standard opening times 10am - 5pm. Standard fares adults: £13.50, children £6.50, under 3s free, seniors £12.50.
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LIMITED
Bodmin & Wenford Railway
BY APPOINTMENT
he 18th century Buscot Park gardens were designed to complement the estate’s Palladian house and include stately water cascades by Harold Peto.
The Weem Inn Weem, Aberfeldy, Highland Perthshire, Scotland, PH15 2 LD +44 (0) 1887 820381 +44 (0) 7796 886899 www.theweeminn.com
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tay in the historic Scottish inn, used by the Outlander production company and film crew when filming Outlander scenes locally. The inn is historically contemporary with the setting of the Jacobite uprising and the location, Highland Perthshire, is of great scenic value and beauty. Plus you will see J K Rowling’s Country House, just along the road. Experience true Highland Hospitality and friendly service in one of 14 characterful en suite rooms. For a key to symbols please see page 141
SOUTHWEST ENGLAND
The Holburne Museum Great Pulteney Street, Bath BA2 4DB www.holburne.org T: +44 (0) 1225 388569
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t the Holburne you will find a beautiful and fascinating art collection in one of Bath’s great buildings. Set within five acres of grounds and only a ten-minute walk from the centre of town, the stunning modern extension has galleries to explore and a garden café, serving fresh seasonal lunches and delicious cakes. The museum is renowned for its collection of 18th-century portraiture, but also has important collections of portrait miniatures, Renaissance bronzes, ceramics, silver and embroidery. Work includes paintings by Gainsborough, Stubbs and Zoffany. The Holburne stages critically acclaimed and popular temporary exhibitions of both historical and contemporary art during the year and programmes lectures, concerts, workshops and events. Exhibitions this year include Prized Possessions: Dutch Masterpieces from National Trust Houses (25 May to 16 September). OPEN: Monday to Saturday 10am-5pm, Sunday and bank holidays 11am-5pm. Closed 24-26 December and 1 January ADMISSION: Please check the website for details
Glastonbury Abbey Abbey Gatehouse, Magdalene Street, Glastonbury, Somerset BA6 9EL www.glastonburyabbey.com T: +44 (0) 1458 832267
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lastonbury Abbey is connected with legend more than any other abbey in England. Since medieval times it has held legendary status as the earliest Christian foundation in Britain linked to Joseph of Arimathea and the burial place of King Arthur. Today, it lies in a tranquil setting, and offers an opportunity for visitors to discover the stories behind the ruins, with tours from costumed ‘living history’ presenters in the grounds. These tours are free, but should be booked in advance for groups. A packed events calendar brings performances, concerts, exhibitions and workshops to the abbey grounds every year. School and university groups can enjoy tailor-made itineraries, and there are specific activities for families, too. An accredited museum showcases items from the abbey’s history and gives more information about the chronology of events and archaeological finds. It also offers an insight into monastic life. There are 36 acres of parkland to explore with a dedicated wildlife area and a medieval kitchen garden. OPEN: All year round, except Christmas Day ADMISSION: adults £8.25*, over 60s £7.15*, students (with card) £7.15*, children (5-15) £4.95*, families (2 adults, up to 3 children) £21.45* * Gift Aid Admission
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Portscatho Holidays
Hughenden Manor
4 The Quay, St Mawes, Truro, Cornwall, TR2 5DG www.portscathoholidays.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1326 270900
High Wycombe, Bucks, HP14 4LA www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hughenden T: +44 (0) 1494 755573
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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND
ortscatho Holidays in St Mawes, offers the largest selection of holiday cottages in South Cornwall. Set on the beautiful Roseland Peninsula in South Cornwall, we have a choice of waterside residences, contemporary homes and traditional country cottages. Our holiday cottages are situated in the best coastal, rural and waterside locations in St Mawes, Portscatho and all villages on The Roseland. A holiday home is a great way to enjoy your holiday time in Cornwall - your own space to relax into, no time constraints and we also have a good selection of dog friendly and family friendly cottages to choose from, so the whole family can spend their holiday together. Every year our guests return to enjoy the best of our holiday cottages, the sandy beaches, sea views, sailing in the Carrick Roads and walks along the glorious South West Coast path.
mid rolling Chiltern countryside lies the home of Victorian Prime Minister, Benjamin Disraeli. Stroll through the woodlands, admire the gardens or uncover Hughenden’s Second World War story. Finish your visit with a seasonal treat in the café or pick up a souvenir in the shop. OPEN: March to October, 10am-5pm, November to January, 10am-4pm ADMISSION: House and grounds – adults £12.65/£11.50, children £6.35/£5.75, families £31.65/£28.75. Grounds only – adults £6.35/£5.75, children £3.20/£2.90, families £15.90/£14.40
Bed Breakfast Nationwide
Bed & Breakfast Nationwide PO Box 10894, Frinton-on-Sea CO13 3AN www.bedandbreakfastnationwide.com T: +44 (0) 1255 672377
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xperience the British way of life by staying in a B&B in a private home. Our brochure and website include a selection of more than 450 B&Bs in Britain and Ireland, all of which have been inspected and chosen for their warm welcome and quality of accommodation. Many have facilities for the less mobile and welcome dogs, and some run special interest courses. Book direct with the B&Bs or use our booking service. We also provide bespoke tours. Contact us for a brochure quoting ref: BM18AG. See a selection of self-catering at www.holidaycottagesnationwide.co.uk
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Amberley House Cottage Holidays Pulborough House, 91 Lower Street, Pulborough, West Sussex, RH20 2BP www.amberleyhousecottages.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1798 877336
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mberley House Cottage Holidays is a leading independent holiday lettings agency based in Sussex with offices in Pulborough and Rye. We enjoy living here and we know the county and the South Downs National Park well. Our mission is to provide you with a friendly, professional and of course a local service whether you are a visiting guest to Sussex or a second homeowner who wants to enjoy the benefits of working with a local team. We offer our guests a choice, to book their accommodation with ease online, or for those who would prefer to talk to us and want some advice and a little guidance on where best to stay, then we are always on the end of the telephone.
For a key to symbols please see page 141
SOUTHEAST ENGLAND
Leeds Castle Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL www.leeds-castle.com T: +44 (0) 1622 765400
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isitors never forget their first breathtaking vision of Leeds Castle in Kent, rising majestically from the moat as it has done for almost 900 years. With 500 acres of beautiful parkland and formal gardens, a spiralling yew maze, free flying falconry displays and special events, it’s not just the glorious history of Leeds Castle that will ensure you want to come back time and time again. Leeds Castle has been a Norman stronghold; the private property of six of England’s medieval queens; a palace used by Henry VIII and his first wife Catherine of Aragon; a Jacobean country house; a Georgian mansion; an elegant early 20th-century retreat for the influential and famous; and in the 21st century, it has become one of the most visited historic buildings in Britain. Visitors can also go punting on the moat, take a train around the grounds or tour the castle surrounds on a Segway. There are even options to stay over. Experience more at ‘the loveliest Castle in the world’. OPEN: April to September, 10am-6pm and October to March, 10am-5pm ADMISSION: adults £25.50. seniors/students £22.50. children £17.50
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Hever Castle & Gardens Hever, Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG www.hevercastle.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1732 865224
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xperience 700 years of history at the romantic double moated Castle, once the childhood home of Anne Boleyn. Explore the 125 acres and see the changing seasons in the award winning gardens. The splendid rooms contain fine furniture, tapestries, antiques, an important collection of Tudor paintings and two prayer books inscribed and signed by Anne Boleyn herself. The stunning gardens, transformed by William Waldorf Astor, include the Italian Garden with its 38-acre lake and the spectacular Loggia with its very own Trevi Fountain. Step back in time in the Tudor Garden or inhale the fragrance of over 4,000 rose bushes in the quintessentially English Rose Garden. In the grounds there is also plenty to entertain including the Tudor Towers adventure playground aimed at 7-14 year olds, the Water Maze and the 100 old Yew Maze – how long will it take you to get out?
Photos: Hever Castle & Gardens
OPEN: Mid-February to March 10.30am to 4.30pm (Wednesday to Sunday). End March to October 10.30am to 6pm. End October to End November 10.30am to 4.30pm (Wednesday to Sunday). End November to Beg December 10.30am to 6pm (Wednesday to Sunday). Mid-December to 24 December 10.30am to 6pm. End of December to 1 January 10.30am to 4.30pm. 1 January to February half-term closed. ADMISSION: Castle & Gardens: adults £17.25; seniors £15.00; students £14.50; children (5-15) £9.75 (under 5’s free) Family ticket £45.50 (2 adults & 2 children or 1 adult & 3 children).
Oxford Castle & Prison 44-46 Oxford Castle, Oxford, OX1 1AY www.oxfordcastleandprison.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1865 260666
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iscover 1,000 years of Oxford’s history. Oxford Castle & Prison is a fascinating visitor attraction with a past stretching far beyond your imagination. For hundreds of years, it has held both famous and infamous residents, serving time as a religious site, a home for royalty, a centre of justice and even as the county jail. Led by costumed character guides, tours reveal the rich history of the castle. Climb the Saxon St George’s Tower, descend deep underground into the crypt, explore the prison D-wing and scale the mound of the 11th-century motte-and-bailey castle. Tours leave up to every 20 minutes from the admissions area in the gift shop. After your tour you will be able to look round the Debtors’ Tower and the exhibition wing. The wider castle site will also be available for you to explore at your own leisure. OPEN: Daily 10am-4.20pm (between April and September the last tour will leave at 5pm). The site will be closed from 24 to 26 December 2018 ADMISSION: adults £11.50, children £7.95, students £9.75, seniors £9.75, families £36
For a key to symbols please see page 141
SOUTHEAST ENGLAND
Arundel Castle Arundel, West Sussex, BN18 9AB www.arundelcastle.org T: +44 (0) 1903 882173
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rundel Castle is situated in magnificent grounds overlooking the River Arun in West Sussex. This year marks the 950th anniversary of its initial construction – the castle was founded at the end of the 11th century by Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Arundel and today it is the family home of the 18th Duke of Norfolk. The castle offers a full day out with guided and free-flow tours of the finely preserved rooms, including the Baron’s Hall, the 14th-century Fitzalan Chapel, the Regency library and Victorian bedrooms. There are also opportunities to ascend the Norman motte and keep and enjoy the Collector Earl’s Garden. Suitable for visitors of all ages, Arundel also offers an action-packed calendar of historical events throughout its open season, including a thrilling Jousting and Medieval Tournament on 24-29 July. OPEN: The castle is open 30 March until 28 October, from 10am-5pm, Tuesday to Sunday, and Mondays in August and Bank Holiday Mondays. ADMISSION: Tickets start from £13 for adults, £11 for children. For more information please visit www.arundelcastle.org
Saffron Walden Tourist Information Centre, 1 Market Place, Saffron Walden, Essex CB10 1HR www.visitsaffronwalden.gov.uk T: +44 (0) 1799 524002
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affron Walden is a picturesque, medieval town, in north-west Essex. It has a rich heritage of old buildings reflecting its wealth as a rural market town. There are many interesting historic buildings in the town. At the heart lies St Mary’s Church, the largest parish church in Essex. Fine examples of elaborate moulded plasterwork (pargetting), can be seen on the Old Sun Inn and the houses in Castle Street and Bridge Street. Also of note are the Eight Bells, the timber-framed Cross Keys, and the medieval building located at 1 Myddylton Place. Nearby, Saffron Walden Museum is of particular interest. The collections are housed in one of the oldest purpose built museum buildings in the country, completed in 1835. It has everything from mammoth tusks to mummies, from an early Tudor bed to a natural history museum gallery. In the grounds of the museum are the ruins of the Castle Keep which dates back to the 1130s or 40s. Bridge End Garden is a real jewel and an environment of great charm on the north side of Saffron Walden. Careful restoration has replicated gardening techniques and designs typical of the Victorian era and brought the garden back to its full splendour. The hedge maze is of particular appeal to children. The path into the garden passes the Fry Art Gallery which houses a collection of works by a Great Bardfield group of artists who settled in the Essex countryside in the 1930s. A market has been held here since 1141, and market days are now Tuesdays and Saturdays with shoppers enjoying browsing and buying goods from a variety of market stalls. Beyond the market place, there are many independent shops and eating places to choose from.
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The Munnings Art Museum Castle Hill, Dedham, Colchester, Essex CO7 6AZ www.munningsmuseum.org.uk T: +44 (0) 1206 322127
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n 2017, The Munnings Art Museum reveals another side to one of Britain’s finest equestrian painters with a new exhibition, Munnings and the River. This exhibition will explore Sir Alfred Munnings’ (1878-1959) artistic and literary responses to a subject with which he had a great affinity and which remained a constant motif throughout his life’s work. Admission to the museum in 2017 also includes access to a series of displays, using a further 150 art works hung chronologically, charting the rise of this son of a Suffolk miller to multimillion-pound selling artist. The Garden Café, set in the tranquil grounds of the museum, serves handmade, seasonal lunches, morning coffee and afternoon teas. Access to the Café and grounds is free. The museum shop sells a range of books and unique giftware, including cards and prints. Details of group visits, exclusive talks and tours, art workshops and other events can be found on the museum’s website. OPEN: 1 April to 29 October 2017, 2pm to 5pm (The Garden Café opens at 10am), Wednesday to Sunday and Bank Holiday Mondays. ADMISSION: Adults £6, children £1. Group visits by arrangement starting at £5 per person. Free car and coach parking
Romney Marsh: Fifth Continent Hidden History Travel, B14 7EP www.hiddenhistory.co.uk T: +44 (0) 121 4441854
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here’s an old saying that the world, according to the best geographers, is divided into Europe, Asia, Africa, America and Romney Marsh. The wetland area across Kent and East Sussex is one of Britain’s most intriguing regions. Hidden churches and lost villages reveal a rich history of famous names, fascinating stories and strange mysteries since the times of Julius Caesar. On this five-day tour, Dr Christopher Cole, a local archaeologist, invites you to join him exploring the unique heritage and rugged beauty of this coastal stretch of southern England, a landscape coloured by the sea. Dr Cole’s passion for, and knowledge of, the Marsh, its people and its history, give the tour an especially intimate insight. The tour includes four nights staying at the historic Mermaid Inn in Rye, Sussex, including breakfast every day, a three-course dinner on the first night, daily excursions in a small coach, all entrance fees and an expert guide. You will hear about the literary associations of the area from Edith Nesbit, author of The Railway Children, to playwright Noël Coward, as well as smugglers, shipwrecks, ghosts and hundreds of years of English history. The tours are limited to 15 participants each. Prices from £675. OPEN: There are six tours throughout June, July and August 2018 and 2019. See the website for details.
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SOUTHEAST ENGLAND
Stonor Park Henley on Thames, Oxon RG9 6HF www.stonor.com T: +44 (0) 1491 638 587
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tonor Park has been home to the Stonor family for over 850 years. The warm brick faรงade and Georgian windows conceal medieval buildings dating back to the 12th century, inside are many original architectural features including the 14th century Catholic chapel and 12th century medieval hall which today is the Pantry serving delicious snacks and light lunches. Visitors can view family portraits, old master paintings, artefacts and collections from around the world. Including a small exhibition celebrating the life and work of St Edmund Campion who sought refuge at Stonor during the reformation. Nestled in a Chiltern valley with stunning views of the fallow deer park full of wild life including buzzards and red kites. Visitors can walk through to the 17th century gardens with ancient terraces and lily ponds with fountains. The latest edition to Stonor is Wonder Woods a stunning adventure play park for our younger visitors. OPEN/ADMISSION: Visit our website for further information
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Didcot Railway Centre
Cottesbrooke Hall & Gardens
DIidcot, Oxfordshire OX11 7NJ www.didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk T: +44 (0) 1235 817200
Cottesbrooke, Northampton NN6 8PF www.cottesbrooke.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1604 505808
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ottesbrooke is a wonderful Queen Anne house, dating from 1702 and set in delightful award-winning gardens in rural Northamptonshire. The hall is home to The Woolavington Collection of sporting art, which is the finest of its type in Europe. The remarkable 18th-century landscaping of the park, its vistas and lakes provides the backdrop to the hall. OPEN: 2 May to 27 September. May and June: Wednesday and Thursday 2pm-5.30pm.July, August and September: Thursday only, 2pm-5.30pm. Bank Holiday Mondays (May to September) 2pm-5.30pm.
HEART OF ENGLAND
ecreating the golden age of the Great Western Railway (GWR), Didcot Railway Centre features 20 GWR steam locomotives, as well as many carriages, wagons and cranes. There is also a unique replica broad gauge locomotive. Original buildings and structures include a 1932 four road engine shed, an 1857 transfer shed, a coaling stage, signal boxes, signalling, and a turntable. Steamdays, gala events, and the themed ‘Day Out With Thomas’ are popular with visitors. OPEN: Every weekend and most school holidays. Daily 3 March to 7 October, 20 to 28 October, 10.30am - 4pm, although open till 5pm on steamdays and during summer.
National Civil War Centre 14 Appletongate, Newark, Nottinghamshire, NG24 1JY www.nationalcivilwarcentre.com T: +44 (0) 1636 655765
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visit to the National Civil War Centre will plunge you deep into the heart of Britain’s deadliest conflict. Explore this richly dramatic era in British history, following stories of gunpowder, plague and plot as you walk through its fantastic galleries. Discover the clash between Roundhead and Royalist, brother and brother, and learn how a once all-powerful monarch lost his head to the axeman. With real objects, digital interactive displays, a large-screen cinema, and costumes and armour for all to try, the National Civil War Centre makes a great day out. Plus, with a fantastic range of events throughout the year, as well as a diverse programme of temporary exhibitions (currently Shaking the Foundations: The Quest For Democracy and Cutting Edge: The Changing Tools of War running to autumn 2018), you can keep coming back and enjoying more unique opportunities to learn about this extraordinary time. OPEN: March to October 10am-5pm, November to February 10am-4pm. ADMISSION: adults £8, concessions (students and seniors 65+) £7, children (5-16 years) £3.50, children under 5 free, carers (accompanying persons registered as disabled) free
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HEART OF ENGLAND
The Cotswolds Distillery Phillip’s Field, Stourton, Shipston-on-Stour, Warwickshire, CV36 5HG www.cotswoldsdistillery.com T: +44 (0) 1608 238533
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he Cotswolds Distillery is the first ever full-scale distillery set in the beautiful Cotswolds countryside. Founded in 2014 by Daniel Szor, the distillery offers visitors a rare opportunity to see true craft distilling in action. Recently awarded a bronze medal for Guided Tour of the Year at the Visit England Awards for Excellence, the fascinating tours around the distillery’s production areas and warehouses show how the award-winning Cotswolds Dry Gin and Cotswolds Single Malt Whisky are crafted. Each tour finishes in the wonderfully cosy tasting room. Settle into an armchair and enjoy samples of the range of spirits and liqueurs while the guide talks you through each one. Takeaway samples are also available for drivers. OPEN: Daily, Monday -Saturday 9am-5pm, Sun 11am-4pm Tours run at 11am, 1pm, 3pm and must be booked in advance ADMISSION: Tour with tasting £10, tour without tasting £6
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HEART OF ENGLAND
The Robin Hood Experience 94 Friar Lane, Nottingham, NG1 6EB www.robinhoodexperience.co.uk T: +44 (0) 115 9474802
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n the place where history, folklore and imagination meet you will find The Robin Hood Experience, an exciting, interactive adventure back through time for the whole family to enjoy. Within the beautiful Georgian building, visitors will encounter a variety of set-pieces based on the traditional Robin Hood ballads, brought to life through mixed-media audio visual presentations. Along the way, information about Robin Hood’s stories, the history on which they are based, and the folklore and popular culture he has inspired is made available in a variety of formats accessible to all ages. The visit concludes with a chance to explore the Outlaw Archive – the largest collection of Robin Hood memorabilia on display to the public anywhere in the world.
OPEN: Open all year, Thursday-Monday during term time and every day during local school holidays. 10am-6pm with last entry at 5.30pm ADMISSION: adults £7.95, children/students/seniors £5.95, groups of four or more £5 each. Large group rates available for schools and similar organisations – please ask
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HEART OF ENGLAND
Avoncroft Museum of Historic Buildings Stoke Heath, Bromsgrove B60 4JR www.avoncroft.org.uk T: +44 (0) 1527 831363
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n award-winning museum with a collection of over 30 rescued and restored buildings including a working 19th century windmill, a Medieval Town House, a fully-furnished 1940s prefab and the National Telephone Kiosk Collection. A lively programme of events includes historical re-enactments, open-air theatre, workshops and family fun days run throughout the year. OPEN: Jan and Feb, Sat and Sun only, 10.30am–4pm Mar–June, Tues–Sun, 10.30am–5pm. July and August, Daily, 10.30am–5pm. Sept and Oct, Tues – Sun, 10.30am – 5pm ADMSSION: Admission fee applies
Broadway Tower Middle Hill, Broadway WR12 7LB www.broadwaytower.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1386 85239
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unique Capability Brown folly, Broadway Tower, offers visitors spectacular panoramic views across 16 counties from the dramatic roof platform. Three floors of displays illustrate the history of the Tower and its association with, amongst others, William Morris. The café offers a warm welcome, delicious food and an opportunity to browse quality gifts. Don’t leave without saying hello to the Red Deer.
OPEN: Tower: 10am-5pm daily Cafe: 9am-5pm daily (may vary in severe weather) ADMSSION: Admission fee applies
Visit Worcestershire www.visitworcestershire.org
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ombining the best of rural England, superb scenery and vibrant culture, Worcestershire has been inspiring visitors for centuries with its beauty and heritage. The county has plenty to offer, from breathtaking views, enchanting rural villages, pretty gardens to explore to historic buildings and miles of waterways. At the heart of Worcestershire is the final resting place of King John, the magnificent 11th-century Worcester Cathedral. The cathedral’s library still houses ancient medieval textbooks covering everything from medicine to law and more. Many historic houses of Worcestershire flaunt the wealth of years gone by, including Hanbury Hall (National Trust), the Greyfriars (National Trust) and Witley Court (English Heritage). Uncover a wide variety of Worcestershire stories with a visit to the Commandery to discover the history of the civil war, Harvington Hall to see the priest holes and the The Firs: Birthplace of Sir Edward Elgar (National Trust) to hear how the county inspired Sir Edward Elgar to write England’s great classical scores. Worcestershire is a gardener’s paradise with everything from walled cottage gardens, large arboretums, formal parks and even landscapes sculpted by Capability Brown, such as the wonderful Croome (National Trust). Worcestershire is a county full of spectacular rural contrasts from the magnificent Malvern Hills and the fertile plains of the Severn and Avon Valleys to the honeycoloured Cotswolds and woodlands of the Wyre forest. For more information, visit www.visitworcestershire.org
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HEART OF ENGLAND
Hartlebury Castle
Museum of Royal Worcester
Hartlebury Castle, Kidderminster DY11 7XZ www.hartleburycastle.com T: +44 (0) 1299 250416
Severn Street, Worcester, WR1 2ND www.museumofroyalworcester.org T: +44 (0) 1905 21247
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xplore the historic house that was home to the Bishops of Worcester for 1000 years. Tour grand state rooms, explore grounds and gardens, enjoy the Worcestershire County Museum’s fascinating collections including costumes, transport and toy gallery. 2018 will see the opening of a new café and children’s play area, with a variety of year-round events to add to your calendar.
he Museum is undergoing an exciting refurbishment programme and will reopen in May 2018. Up until that date we will run special offers and events. Make sure you visit to see work in action, mix with past Royal Worcester Artists who regularly work in our galleries and learn about the world’s finest collection of Worcester Porcelain.
OPEN: Tuesday–Friday 10am–5pm, weekends 11am–5pm
OPEN: From June 2018: Mon-Sat 10am-5pm and Sun 11am–4pm ADMSSION: Admission fee applies
Severn Valley Railway
Worcester Cathedral
Number One Comberton Place, Kidderminster, Worcestershire, DY10 1QR www.svr.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1562 757900
8 College Yard, Worcester, WR1 2LA www.worcestercathedral.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1905 732900
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evern Valley Railway operates a mostly steam hauled train service along the beautiful Severn Valley between Kidderminster and Bewdley in Worcestershire and Bridgnorth in Shropshire, a journey of about 16 miles. A must for a visit is The Engine House Visitor Centre at Highley. The reserve collection of steam locomotives is on display there and includes an exhibition that charts the history of the Severn Valley line. OPEN: Weekends and daily from May to September, plus local school holidays ADMSSION: Fee applies
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magnificent and inspiring building, possibly the most interesting of all England’s cathedrals, showing a wide range of architectural styles and timelines, it has been a place of prayer and worship for fourteen centuries. Visitors can see King John’s tomb, Prince Arthur’s Chantry, the early 12th century Chapter House, Saint Wulfstan’s Crypt, medieval cloister and beautiful Victorian stained glass. OPEN: Daily 7.30am-6pm (including Bank Holidays). Turn up for a tour at 11am and 2.30pm, Mon to Sat, March to end of November. Saturdays only during the Winter. Quote EWM18 to get a 10% discount on pre-booked tours. ADMSSION: Admission fee applies
For a key to symbols please see page 141
HEART OF ENGLAND
Eastnor Castle
The Hop Pocket Shopping Village
Eastnor, Nr Ledbury, HR8 1RL www.eastnorcastle.com T: +44 (0) 1531 633160
Bishops Frome, Worcester, WR6 5BT www.thehoppocket.com T: +44 (0) 1531 640323
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fairytale Georgian castle dramatically situated in the foothills of the Malverns, near Ledbury, Herefordshire and surrounded by a beautiful arboretum and lake. In the grounds there is an adventure playground, maze, junior assault course, woodland play area, lakeside and woodland walks and an event on every visitor open day. Visit the website for further details and to buy discounted tickets. OPEN: 11am–5.30pm (last admission 4.00pm). Open on selected days between Easter and the end of September. Please see website for full details of open dates. ADMSSION: Fee applies
he Hop Pocket is a rural shopping destination, an Aladdin’s cave of crafts, contemporary art, soft furnishings, clothing, toys and gifts, with local ciders, beers and wines, including free tastings every day. There is a large farm shop a lovely plant centre and a farmhouse family restaurant serving freshly cooked homemade food, scrumptious cakes and a traditional Sunday roast. OPEN: Tue–Sat, 10am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm; closed Mon, except Bank Holidays, Open 7 days a week November to Christmas Eve ADMSSION: Free
Visit Herefordshire & The Wye Valley www.visitherefordshire.co.uk
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erefordshire has long been considered the land of milk and honey, famed for its spectacular countryside, historic market towns and picture-book villages, not to mention an abundance of artisan makers, cider producers and foodie destinations. Located on the border with Wales, Herefordshire is steeped in history with some areas being relatively untouched for many years. So if it’s walking, ruins, castles, canoeing, attractions, gardens or family fun you’re after, there is something for everyone. At only 90 minutes travel time from Birmingham, Bristol and Cardiff, and three hours from London, Herefordshire has masses to offer with its beautiful, varied and undiscovered countryside. Herefordshire also boasts festivals galore with the UK’s largest poetry festival in Ledbury, and a full calendar across the county including Herefordshire Country Fair, Wye Valley River Festival, Bromyard’s Gala and Folk Festival, Leominster’s Victorian Christmas Market, the Contemporary Craft Fair, Borderlines Film Festival and, of course, the returning triennial presence of the famous Three Choirs Festival. You can also visit some of the many gardens, churches, National Trust properties, castles and historical locations such as Eastnor, Goodrich and Hampton Court, or even try llama-trekking over the Black Mountains where so many writers and poets have been inspired or, if you prefer to see the county on foot, stride out at our walking festivals from May to October. Even if the weather takes a turn, Herefordshire can still keep you entertained, from the stunning cathedral and prominent black-and-white house in Hereford city to the Cider Museum, as well as the many museums in all its market towns. For more information, visit www.visitherefordshire.co.uk
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HEART OF ENGLAND
Waterperry Gardens
Cambridge River Tours
Waterperry, Nr Wheatley, Oxfordshire OX33 1JZ www.waterperrygardens.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1844 339254
La Mimosa Punt, Station, Thompson’s Lane, Cambridge www.puntcambridge.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1223 927331
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aterperry Gardens comprises eight acres of beautifully landscaped ornamental gardens, including a formal knot, rose and alpine garden and one of the country’s finest purely herbaceous borders. Visit the plant centre, gift barn, gallery, rural life museum and teashop for lunch and cakes. Events all year round, and arts, crafts and gardening courses. Seven miles from Oxford.
unting is as synonymous with Cambridge as the University itself. The tour takes around 45 minutes and passes some of the most famous colleges in Cambridge, where the likes of Sir Isaac Newton, Stephen Hawking, et al, sharpened their minds. Take in all of this and more on a chauffeured punting tour with Cambridge River Tours.
EAST ENGLAND
OPEN: Every day, 10am-5.30pm (October to March, 5pm), except between Christmas Day and New Year’s Day ADMISSION: February to October, £7.95; November to January, £5.50
East Anglia: Origins of England Hidden History Travel, B14 7EP www.hiddenhistory.co.uk +44 (0) 121 4441854
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he rich lands of Norfolk and Suffolk are steeped in the tribal origins of England and brimming with an unmatched medieval heritage. The region was at the heart of England’s Anglo-Saxon and Norman history, and its rolling fields and timbered villages are a classic representation of the English countryside. Join historian Dr Martin Locker and archaeologist Dr Neil Faulkner as they unearth the creation of medieval England. This unique six day tour includes visits to England’s ‘Valley of the Kings’ at Sutton Hoo, its ‘Jerusalem’ at Little Walsingham, the Anglo-Saxon village at West Stow, the beautiful Norman Castle Acre and the historic city of Norwich. It also includes a fascinating day on a live excavation seeing the latest discoveries being made. The tour includes 5 nights at the historic St Giles House Hotel in Norwich, with all breakfasts, a 3-course evening meal, daily excursions by small coach, all entrances and expert guiding. Limited to 20 participants per tour. OPEN: Tour dates available in July and August 2018 and 2019. See website for details.
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For a key to symbols please see page 141
EAST ENGLAND
Scudamore’s T Punting Cambridge Granta Place, Mill Lane, Cambridge, CB2 1RS www.scudamores.com T: +44 (0) 1223 359750
he tradition of punting in Cambridge is world famous, with punt tours featuring at the top of everyone’s list of things to do in Cambridge. The traditional punts offer a luxurious glimpse into the city’s history. Alternatively, if you’re looking to have your very own Cambridge adventure on the river then renting one of the self-hire punts is just the thing! Head along the inspiring College Backs for a sense of grandeur or choose a punt in the direction of rural Grantchester – a small village next to Cambridge, full of history. Scudamore’s Punting Cambridge first introduced pleasure punting to the city in the early 20th century. Remaining true to Jack Scudamore’s original vision from 1910, the River Cam can be enjoyed by all, offering the traditional boating services to everyone. OPEN: Open all year except 25 December, 9am until dusk ADMISSION: adults: £20, children: £11.50, students/seniors: £18.50
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EAST ENGLAND Thomas Gainsborough (1727-88) Wooded Landscape with Cattle by a Pool, 1782.
Gainsborough’s House
York Minster
46 Gainsborough Street, Sudbury, Suffolk CO10 2EU www.gainsborough.org T: +44 (0) 1787 372958
York Minster, Deangate York, YO1 7HH www.yorkminster.org T: +44 (0) 1904 557200
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ainsborough’s House and garden is the childhood home of one of Britain’s greatest artists, Thomas Gainsborough R.A. (1727-88). The elegant Georgian fronted townhouse and exhibition gallery shows an outstanding collection of his paintings and drawings and presents a changing programme of displays and temporary exhibitions throughout the year.
NORTHERN ENGLAND
OPEN: Monday to Saturday 10am-5pm. Sunday 11am-5pm. Closed: Good Friday and between Christmas and the New Year.
ork Minster is one of the world’s most magnificent cathedrals. A masterpiece in stained-glass and stone, its foundations are rooted in the nation’s earliest history. Visit and see the cathedral’s vast spaces brought to life with the glory of worship and heavenly music. This wonderful heritage belongs to us all, so come along and experience York Minister for yourself. OPEN: All year around. Check York Minster’s website for opening times.
Goldsborough Hall Church Street, Goldsborough, North Yorkshire, HG5 8NR www.goldsboroughhall.com T: +44 (0) 1423 867321 HHHHH AA 2AA Rosette
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oldsborough Hall came to fame in the 1920s as the former residence of HRH Princess Mary, the Queen’s Aunt, who lived here after her marriage to Viscount Lascelles, later the 6th Earl of Harewood. Goldsborough Hall stands in 12 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds boasting unspoilt elevated views over the historic gardens and tranquil parkland, making it one of the most private, exclusive and beautiful places to visit in Yorkshire. Situated near Knaresborough it is the perfect base to explore the chic shopping areas of nearby Harrogate, historic York and the city of Leeds. Spending the night at Goldsborough Hall is not just about taking in the 400-year-old Royal history of this private family home, but also relaxing in the most amazing accommodation, synonymous with the Goldsborough Hall standard. Experience for yourself the history, elegance, indulgence and sheer opulence of staying in a Royal residence. The 2 AA Rosette Dining Room is the epitome of fine dining in Yorkshire and the Royal Afternoon Tea, including a tour of the gardens, is a magical way to spend the afternoon.
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For a key to symbols please see page 141
NORTHERN ENGLAND
Durham Cathedral The College, Durham, DH1 3EH www.durhamcathedral.co.uk T: +44 (0) 191 3 387178
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urham Cathedral is one of the best examples of Romanesque architecture anywhere in Europe. Renowned for its spectacular location at the heart of the Durham UNESCO World Heritage Site, Durham Cathedral has been a place of worship, welcome and hospitality for almost a millennium, inspiring all who come. It is famous as the Shrine of St Cuthbert and the resting place of the Venerable Bede. The Cathedral also boasts some of the UK’s best-preserved medieval monastic buildings which are home to Open Treasure, a world-class exhibition experience which includes the exquisite Treasures of St Cuthbert. Discover 2,000 years of history on a journey from the medieval Monks’ Dormitory to the monastic Great Kitchen, as the remarkable story of Durham Cathedral and its incredible collections is revealed through permanent and temporary exhibitions. DURHAM CATHEDRAL: Open daily until 6pm. Free admission with donations welcome, admission charges apply to guided tours. OPEN TREASURE: Open daily, from 10am-5pm Monday to Saturday (last admission 4pm), 12pm-5pm Sunday (last admission 4pm). adults £7.50; concessions £6; children (5-18) £2.50; under 5s free; family ticket £17.50.
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NORTHERN ENGLAND
Brontë Parsonage Museum
Skipton Castle
Church Street, Haworth, Keighley, West Yorkshire BD22 8DR www.bronte.org.uk T: +44 (0) 1535 642323
Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD23 1AW www.skiptoncastle.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1756 792442
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et in the picturesque village of Haworth in the Yorkshire moors, the Brontë Parsonage Museum houses the world’s largest collection of Brontë furniture and personal possessions. With a programme of exhibitions, events and family activities, it offers an evocative experience for people of all ages.
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or more than 900 years, Skipton Castle has stood firm through wars and sieges at the gateway to the Yorkshire Dales. Once home to the famous Clifford Lords, it is one of the best preserved and most complete medieval castles in England.
OPEN: 1 April to 31 October, 10am-5.30pm; 1 November to 31 March, 10am-5pm; New Year’s Day 12 noon-5pm. Closed 24-27 December and 2-31 January. Last ticket 30 minutes before closing. ADMISSION: adults £8.50, seniors (65+) and students £6.50, children £4 (under 5s free), family £20
OPEN: Open year-round. Monday to Saturday (10am-5pm), Sunday (11am-5pm). October to March (4pm). Closed 23, 24, 25 December. ADMISSIONS: adults £8.30; children (5-17) £5.20; under-5s free; over-60s and students; £7.30
Yorkshire Air Museum & Allied Air Forces Memorial
Skipton Boat Trips
Halifax Way, Elvington, York, YO41 4AU www.yorkshireairmuseum.org T: +44 (0) 1904 608595
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xplore this memorial museum in a Second World War bomber command station. Exhibitions include Against the Odds, telling the story of RAF Bomber Command, and discover Yorkshire’s role in the birth of manned flight in Pioneers of Aviation. The collection illustrates developments from the 1853 Cayley Glider to the supersonic age. It includes RAF aircraft from the First World War to today.
OPEN: Summer 10am-5pm, winter 10am-4pm. Closed Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year’s Day ADMISSION: adults £10, concessions £8, children (5-15) £5, under 5s free, families £26
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Wharf Office, 3 Coach Street, Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 1LH www.canaltrips.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1756 790829
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kipton Boat Trips offer unique canal boating experiences and depart from the wharf in Skipton, on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales. With many different catering options available, and with everything taken care of, groups of 25 to 48 can enjoy cream tea, afternoon tea, lunches, buffets, roast dinner, or even Christmas dinner. Coffee and biscuit cruises are also available. Cruises last from 1 hour to 3 hours and coach parties are welcome with parking available nearby. Call to request a brochure.
For a key to symbols please see page 141
NORTHERN ENGLAND
JORVIK Viking Centre Coppergate Shopping Centre, Coppergate, York, YO1 9WT www.jorvikvikingcentre.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1904 615505
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he year is AD960 and the last Viking king in Jorvik, Eric Bloodaxe, has been banished. The city is thriving with a flourishing manufacturing centre and wide trading links. There are new buildings, new people and new stories to be told... Discover the world-famous JORVIK Viking Centre after its multi-million pound re-imagining, and explore the lives of the people who made York their home more than 1,000 years ago. Experience our new ride with sights, sounds and, of course, smells, of the Viking Age. Delve into our updated historical displays, showcasing the cultural melting pot of 10th-century York, and benefit from the latest cutting-edge technology bringing the Viking period to life. OPEN: April to October, 10am to 5pm; November to March, 10am to 4pm. During JORVIK Viking Festival, Christmas, special events and school holiday periods opening times may vary. ADMISSION: adults £11, children (5-16) £8, concessions £9, families of four £32, families of five £36. Please note: maximum of two adults per family ticket.
Keighley & Worth Valley Railway The Railway Station, Haworth, West Yorkshire, BD22 8NJ www.kwvr.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1535 645214
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tep back in time on the train in The Railway Children, in the heart of Brontë Country. Keighley & Worth Valley Railway is the perfect day out for all the family. Immerse yourself in the history of the railway and experience a really big adventure. Journey through history on a vintage train and enjoy a snapshot of the railway’s glory days. Experience the magic of the fantastic collection of engines, wagons and carriages. Explore Rail Story, two award-winning museums, with loads of things to do, experts to talk to and hands-on fun. Relive the well-loved tale of The Railway Children, as you watch the vintage steam trains puff in and out of the valley. Don’t forget to hop off the train at Edwardian Oakworth station, a key location in the 1970 film. At Keighley and Worth Valley Railway there is more to do than meets the eye. It’s so much more than a train ride! OPEN: The railway is open all year round. Trains run every weekend throughout the year, and daily in summer and during school holidays. See the website for details ADMISSION: We recommend Rover or Full Line Return tickets. Rover tickets allow you to explore Brontë Country, enabling a full day of travel as well as access to Rail Story. Rover (small family rover consists of one adult and one child): adults £18, families £22, concs £15. Full Line Return: adults £12 , children £6, under 5s free.
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NORTHERN ENGLAND
Whitmore Hall
Wandering Aengus Treks
Whitmore, Newcastle-Under-Lyme, Staffordshire ST5 5HW T: +44 (0) 1782 680478
info@WATreks.com www.wanderingaengustreks.com T: +44 (0) 1697 478443
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hitmore Hall is a Grade I listed building, designated as a house of outstanding architectural and historical interest. Parts of the hall date back 900 years and it is the seat of the Cavenagh-Mainwarings, direct descendants of the original Norman owners. The hall has beautifully proportioned light rooms and is in excellent order. There are family portraits with a continuous line dating from 1624 to the present day. The park encompasses a lime avenue leading from the hall to the parish church. There is an early Victorian summer house, refurbished in 2017 and a rare Elizabethan stable block. OPEN: 1 May-31 August: Tuesday and Wednesday, 2pm-5pm with guided tours available. ADMISSION: adult: £5, child: 50p
Castle Howard York, YO60 7DA Twitter: @castlehowardest Facebook: @castlehoward Instagram: @castle_howard www.castlehoward.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1653 648333
xperience the beautiful North Yorkshire coast by foot on a self-guided holiday with Wandering Aengus Treks. Wandering Aengus Treks will arrange your accommodation, transfer your luggage between overnight stops and provide all the maps and information you need for a carefree walk at your own pace. Self-guided itineraries are also available for the Lake District, Hadrian’s Wall, Coast to Coast and The Pennine Way. Instead of offering hundreds of itineraries, the company’s founders pride themselves on having walked each of the routes themselves. OPEN: Available from 1 April to 31 October
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xplore one of Britain’s most magnificent houses with awe-inspiring architecture and grand interiors, sweeping parkland, formal gardens, woodland walks, lakes and temples. Castle Howard was built more than 300 years ago by Sir John Vanbrugh for Charles Howard, 3rd Earl of Carlisle, and today remains home to the Howard family. Discover the delights of the house at your own pace with guides on hand to share stories about the family and the world-renowned collections. In the gardens, stroll along grass terraces and lakeside paths which offer stunning views at every turn, admire the botanical collection in Ray Wood and seasonal displays in the 18th-century walled garden. Leave time to visit the adventure playground, gift shop, farm shop, garden centre and cafe. OPEN: The gardens and courtyard are open year-round from 10am. The house is open from 24 March to 4 November and from 17 November for Christmas ADMISSION: adults £18.95, children (4 to 16) £9.95, concession £17.50
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NORTHERN ENGLAND
Footpath Holidays
Aberglasney Gardens
16 Norton Bavant, Warminster, Wiltshire, BA12 7BB www.footpath-holidays.com T: + 44 (0) 1985 840049
Aberglasney Gardens, Llangathen, Carmarthenshire SA32 8QH www.aberglasney.org T: +44 (0) 1558 668998
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ootpath Holidays has been an expert provider of walking holidays throughout England, Wales and the Scottish Borders since 1983. A family-run business, it offers top-quality walking breaks with a reputation for professionalism, customer care and enthusiasm. Based in the heart of rural England, Footpath Holidays is the perfect choice to make sure you get the very best experiences from your visit to the British countryside, whether on a guided, self-guided or bespoke holiday.
(PRE-BOOKED GROUPS)
OPEN: March to November
berglasney was made famous by the BBC television series A Garden Lost in Time which followed its restoration. Today it’s simply one of Wales’s finest gardens. A renowned plantsman’s paradise with a unique Elizabethan cloister garden at its heart, Aberglasney offers the opportunity to explore more than 10 acres of magnificent gardens along with the fully restored ground floor of Aberglasney’s Grade II listed mansion. OPEN: April to October, 10am-6pm (last entry 5pm), November to March, 10.30am-4pm (last entry 3pm). ADMISSION: adults £8.50, children 16 years and under free* (*Please note that for certain special events admission charges will apply for children.)
WALES
Photo: Visit Wales
Snowdonia: Land of Legends
Dragon Trails
Snowdonia, North Wales www.attractionsofsnowdonia.com Twitter: @GoSnowdonia
Guided walking holidays in wales www.dragontrails.com T: +44 (0) 1873 810970
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isted as a Top 10 Region in Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2017, North Wales is totally legendary. Ancient landscapes, majestic mountains and fabulous coastline with thousands of years of history wherever you look. Snowdonia is a land of myths and legends, but it’s also a land of zip wires, mountain surfing and family adventure. Everywhere you go, there are dazzling new ideas, in very old places. For more information and to #FindYourEpic, visit www.attractionsofsnowdonia. com; plus to save money on your visit, purchase a Snowdonia Pass Visitor Discount Card, www.snowdoniapass.co.uk
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xplore the spectacular scenery, history and wildlife of the Pembrokeshire and Ceredigion Coasts or Brecon Beacons with Dragon Trails. Daily guided walks with Welsh-speaking guide. Full-board with home-cooked food, log fires, croquet, coracling. Relaxed house-party atmosphere, seven, six or four night breaks. Local history, flora and wildlife a specialty. Singles, couples and groups all welcome. OPEN: See website for dates of tours from April - October 2018.
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WALES
St Davids Cathedral
Picton Castle & Gardens
St Davids, Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire, SA62 6RD www.stdavidscathedral.org.uk T: +44 (0) 1437 720202
The Rhos, Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire, SA62 4AS www.pictoncastle.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1437 751 326
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OPEN: Monday to Saturday 9am-5pm, Sunday 1pm-5pm ADMISSION: Donations of £3
OPEN: All year, 9am-5pm ADMISSION: adults £13, senior citizens (60 and over) £12, children (5-16) £8, children (2-4) £4, families (2 adults and 2 children aged 2 -15 years) £34.50
or almost a millennium and a half, St Davids has been a place of pilgrimage. St David came here to find tranquillity for himself and his community. On the site of Tyddewi (St David’s house and monastery), later generations built and adorned this splendid cathedral. It has stood for more than 800 years as a noble example of medieval architecture and as a place where prayer and the praise of God are offered daily.
xplore the 13th-century castle’s history, discover Wales’s largest collection of owls and enjoy the magnificent rhododendrons, shady woodlands, exotic jungle garden and colourful walled garden alongside living willow dens, family trails and an engaging adventure playground. An impressive schedule of events complements this award-winning RHS Partner Garden for all seasons.
Llancaiach Fawr Manor Gelligaer Road, Nelson, Treharris, Wales CF46 6ER www.llancaiachfawr.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1443 412248
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lancaiach Fawr Manor stands proudly, as it has done since c1550, overlooking the Glamorgan uplands. Set within a restored period garden, it provides the perfect opportunity to enjoy the passing of the seasons in a tranquil location where the past and the present collide. This superbly restored gentry manor house is no ordinary heritage attraction; the history here is tangible. The costumed servants of the house live and work in the year 1645 and allow you to share and engage in their world. Fires crackle, candles flicker and the sounds and smells of domestic life give you a memorable experience of the past. It takes a moment to attune your ear to the unfamiliar speech that echoes around the manor, but within seconds of arriving you’ll become immersed in the era of the Civil Wars and the cares and concerns of ordinary people living in extraordinary times. In the manor gardens, as much as possible is grown just as it would have been in 1645. The orchard contains rare varieties of apples and plants grown in the Physic garden that would have been used for cures, perfumes and in the household. OPEN: Tuesday to Sunday, closed 24 December 2018 to 2 January 2019. ADMISSION: adult: £8.50, concessions/child: £6.95, family (2 adults + 3 children): £25.
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WALES
Dylan Thomas Centre Somerset Place, Swansea SA1 1RR www.dylanthomas.com T: +44 (0) 1792 463980 Facebook: Dylan Thomas Centre Twitter: @DTCSwansea
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he Dylan Thomas Centre, home to the free Love the Words exhibition, celebrates the life, work and legacy of Wales’ most famous writer. From his birth in Uplands, Swansea in 1914 to his death in New York in 1953, the Love the Words exhibition explores Thomas’s biography, inspiration and writing through interactive displays and exhibits, accessible to all the family. The exhibition includes an interactive timeline and a children’s trail, featuring some of the animals that appear in Thomas’s writing. Meanwhile, the people trail focuses on some of the key figures in his life, from Charlie Chaplin to Pablo Picasso, as well as the rich cultural context in which he lived. One section in the centre of the exhibition is dedicated to Thomas the writer, and another to Thomas the performer. Meanwhile, Touchscreens tell the story of Thomas’s notebooks and explore his famous poem Do not go gentle into that good night. Listen to Thomas himself, and those who knew him, through built-in speakers in the chairs. The Dylan Thomas Centre also offers creative writing opportunities for adults and young people, as well as free children’s activities throughout the school holidays. Events included guided tours of Dylan’s Swansea during the year. There is also a cafe, serving cakes, scones, Dylan Thomas Centenary blend coffee, soup, salads and sandwiches. OPEN: Every day, 10am-4.30pm ADMISSION: free
Snowdon L Mountain Railway Llanberis, Gwynedd, LL55 4TT www.snowdonrailway.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1286 870223
et Snowdon Mountain Railway take you on the journey of a lifetime to the rooftop of Wales. Snowdon, at 1,085m, dominates the landscape of the Snowdonia National Park in North Wales. Since 1896, visitors have been travelling to the village of Llanberis at the foot of Snowdon to experience this unique journey to the summit of the highest mountain in Wales and England. From the first views of the waterfall plunging into the gorge below at the start of the journey to the breathtaking sights over the edge of Rocky Valley, every moment is memorable. This heritage narrow gauge railway operates two services, the Heritage Steam Experience and Traditional Diesel Service. On a clear day, the views stretch as far as Ireland from Hafod Eryri, the Snowdon Summit Visitor Centre. All summit services last two and a half hours, including a 30-minute stop at the peak. OPEN: Subject to weather conditions and passenger demand, trains run every day from mid-March until the end of October. The first train departs at 9am, and then at regular intervals. In March and April, trains are expected to run to Clogwyn, three-quarters of the way up the mountain. ADMISSION: See the website for details.
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WALES
Caldey Island
Wilderness Cottages
Caldey Island, Off Tenby, Pembrokeshire, SA70 7UH, Wales www.caldeyislandwales.com T: +44 (0) 1834 844453
www.wildernesscottages.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1463 719219
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aldey Island lies cradled in the magnificent South Pembrokeshire coastline on the western fringes of Wales. It is one of Britain’s holy islands. The Cistercian monks of Caldey continue a tradition, which began there in Celtic times. More than a thousand years of prayer and quiet living have made this remote and beautiful island a haven of tranquillity and peace. The monks and islanders are pleased to welcome day-visitors to share the delights of their island home throughout the summer season?
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ilderness Cottages offers a selection of quality self-catering properties throughout Scotland, ranging from those with rustic appeal to others boasting five-star luxury. There are plenty of options, whether you want to stay in the countryside or by the seashore. Popular areas include the Loch Ness region, the Isle of Skye and the West Coast. Cottages range in size from small and cosy – ideal for couples on honeymoon and romantic holidays – to larger holiday cottages that sleep between six and 12 people. Short breaks are available and pets are welcome. See the 2018 brochure online or order one by phone.
SCOTLAND
OPEN: April- October. No sailings on any Sunday. All island opening times / dates are subject to last minute changes in response to weather conditions. Please check the information phone line before setting out on your journey.
Roman Tours
New Lanark World Heritage Site
Tourist Information Centre, Townhall Square, Chester www.romantoursuk.com T: +44 (0) 1978 761264 or +44 (0) 7885 403485
New Lanark Mills, Lanark, ML11 9DB www.newlanark.org T: +44 (0) 1555 661345
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oin a fascinating walking tour of Roman Chester with a Roman soldier as your guide. This tour will transport you back nearly 2,000 years to a time when Chester was the largest fortress in Britain and boasted the largest amphitheatre in the country. Explore the remains of the amphitheatre and the biggest Roman fort (Deva Victrix) in this entertaining and informative tour. Tours last one and a half hours. OPEN: All year round, midday and 3pm except Sundays ADMISSION: adults £7, children £4. Private and group bookings available
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ew Lanark World Heritage Site is a unique 18th century mill village sitting alongside the picturesque River Clyde less than one hour from Glasgow and Edinburgh. Visitors can see recreated millworkers’ houses, historic working machinery and the nearby ‘Falls of Clyde’ waterfalls. There’s a Mill Shop selling locally made textiles, welcoming Mill Café and the New Lanark Mill Hotel. OPEN: Year-round, 10am-5pm (April – October), 10am-4pm (NovemberMarch). ADMSSION: adults: £12.50, concessions: £10.50. children (3-15): £9.00 – for current prices please see website.
For a key to symbols please see page 141
SCOTLAND
Duncans Tours Scotland www.duncanstourscotland.com T: +44 (0) 7972818072 enquiry@duntourscot.com
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uncans Tours Scotland offers visitors a flexible tour in the comfort of their luxury vehicles, with a narrative given to explain most aspects of anywhere in Scotland for a day, a week, or several weeks, for up to eight people, in one bus or 20 people across two eight seater mini buses and an estate car if needed, or tour buses. There’s also the option of an estate car to see castles, take whisky tours, enjoy the scenery of coasts, rivers, mountains, animals, ancient standing stones and circles, lighthouses, old prisons, caves, golf courses, kirks, museums or anything else of interests that you may wish to see. The trip is tailored to your needs. Explore the real Scotland, visit cities such as Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen and Inverness, or tour the Western Isles and Orkney, and the Northern Highlands. See the beauty of Scotland in the most relaxing way.
NORTHERN IRELAND
Tower Street Treasure
Value Vacation Belfast City
96 Tower Street, Belfast BT5 4FJ www.booking.com
164 Madrid Street, Belfast BT5 4EG www.booking.com
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his holiday home is superbly located in east Belfast, just 20 minutes’ walk from the vibrant city centre. It is just 2km from the Slipways, where the Titanic was built and launched more than 100 years ago, and close to Titanic Belfast, a popular attraction exploring the story of the famous ship. Built in the 1900, this modernised property offers economic and spacious self-catering accommodation. It has three bedrooms, sleeping up to six people in total, as well as a kitchen with a fridge, oven, dishwasher and laundry facilities. There is free on-site parking, with the property being conveniently near the motorway network. It is also close to the train station.
www.britain-magazine.com
his historic property in east Belfast is a spacious and economic option for self-catering accommodation, sleeping up to five people. A mid terraced holiday home, it has a seating area, dining area and a kitchen with a dishwasher and laundry facilities. It comes with free WiFi, towels and bed linen. There is free parking on site. Value Vacation Belfast City is close to Titanic Belfast, the world’s largest Titanic visitor experience, exploring the story of the famous ship through nine fascinating exhibition galleries. It is also near the Waterfront Hall and the Peace Wall, making this holiday property especially convenient for sightseeing. Belfast City Airport is just 3km away.
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GUERNSEY/ISLE OF WIGHT
Brading Roman Villa
ArtPark & Subtropical Gardens
Morton Old Road, Brading, Isle of Wight PO36 0PH www.bradingromanvilla.org.uk T: +44 (0) 1983 406223
Sausmarez Manor, St Martin, Guernsey, CI GY4 6SG www.sausmarezmanor.co.uk and www.artparks.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1481 235571
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ne of the finest Roman sites in the UK. The award-winning museum offers a unique insight into Roman Britain from beautiful mosaic floors to an extensive collection of archaeology. The villa offers something for everyone with a licensed cafe, shop and extensive grounds including a Roman garden. The new gallery space showcases a changing programme of exhibitions from national museums and galleries. OPEN: Daily 10am - 5pm. ADMISSIONS: adults: £9.50, seniors/students £8.75, children (5-16yrs) £4.75, family ticket (2 adults and up to 3 children): £25.
he result of nearly 30 years of collecting and planting subtropical plants in dry shady conditions, it has culminated in a lush area of jungle with groves of Bamboos, Tree Ferns, Banana Trees, flowering Ginger, giant leafed Arums, Abutilons, interspersed with Cyclamen in late summer and Camellias in spring. It is rounded off with poems and garden sculptures. OPEN: The sculpture park and subtropical gardens are open all year from 10am-5pm (the rest of the attraction only during the season). ADMISSION: £6.50; concessions £5; babies and registered disabled gain free entry. Ask about other special rates.
Isle of Wight Guided Tours www.isleofwightguidedtours.co.uk T: +44 (0) 1983 754444 / +44 (0) 7932 157326
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he real Island experience: Isle of Wight Guided Tours offers a range of entertaining, informative and educational bespoke tours which explore both the best-loved and most secret sights that the Island has to offer. We are dedicated Island specialists, both in itinerary planning and guided tours for individuals, couples, and groups of all sizes, all completely tailored to your own specific requirements, in either the English or German language. You may opt for something unique, or you may prefer to choose one of our tried and tested standout tours - be it one of the classics, the hidden treasures, a specific themed or-period tour, or a mix-and-match. Simply regard us as your own personal ‘one-stop Isle of Wight shop’. We personally ensure that you will experience the very best the Island has to offer. With us, you can consider the Island well and truly conquered! Please view our website for further information: www.isleofwightguidedtours.co.uk
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For a key to symbols please see page 141
Celebrate St. Pancras The people, the place, the journey
Historic image reproduced in part with kind permission from the Science & Society Picture Library / National Railway Museum.
Under one unique roof there is a remarkable story. Discover 150 years of St. Pancras’ history and heritage. To learn more about our journey and celebratory events in 2018, please visit:
www.stpancras.com @StPancrasInt facebook.com/stpancrasint stpancrasinternational