As Far As I Can See

As Far As I Can See The Amazon Diaries

By Charlie Brinkhurst Cuff

Introduction During the summer of 2011 myself, and over 60 other young people aged 15-21 from all around the UK, took part in an expedition to the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest – specifically the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve Park, a place almost untouched by Western influences. We were split into four groups named Fire’s of around 15 people, with around half in each Fire going home after three weeks, while the rest continued on for another two. I was in Fire B. Run by the British Schools Exploring Society, the expedition was a huge success. Below is my account of the expedition, starting with our plane journeys to the Amazon and continuing on to document our four phases: Canoe phase, San Martine phase, Jungle trek phase and Science Camp phase.

The majority of the photo’s used in the diary were taken by me, but as my camera ran out of battery halfway through the expedition some of Sam’s, Lucy’s, Ali’s, George’s and Dan’s photos have also been used!

Fire B: Group Leader – Andy Reid (Andy Major) Our Phase Leaders – Steven Greaves (Stevie G), Matthew Hodson (Matt), Andy Minor, James Borrel, Suzanna Jerrard (Suze), Timotheius Van Berkel (Tim), Arklay Purdie, Victoria Lamb, Theresa Meacham and Helen Macleod.

3 Weekers: Lucy Aitken, Andrew Blanshard (Grandy), Adam Brook, (Madam), Harry Hudson (Harold), Alihusein Kapasi , Amy Sutcliffe, William Thompson, David Turnbull 5 Weekers: Charlie Brinkhurst Cuff (Charles), Samuel Brookman, James Hannon (Jimmy), Siân Heys (Ian), Daniel Peel and George Simpson (Julie).

22nd of July 2011 Nearly Ready At present I am procrastinating. I should be finishing up my packing for the trip to the Amazon, but instead I deigned it an appropriate moment to begin writing my Amazon diary!

I can’t believe it’s finally here, but at the same time I sort of feel apathetic – not excited, spent. However, I think that probably has more to do with my hungover state than me not being excited. I mean, I’m living out one of my dreams. I’m going to the Amazon Rainforest! I can only imagine what it’s truly going to be like, but I can’t wait! Maybe I’m not as apathetic as I thought I was.

24th of July 2011 Madrid I’m on a plane! No going back now, that’s certain.

It was a slightly stressful few days, what with the tiring car journey down from Edinburgh and the manky hotel food endured at the Premier inn, but I made it to the airport in good time and all the nerves that had been slowly building up, disappeared as soon as I started speak to my Fire group (I managed to locate Amy first and she was standing with the others).

I’ve just realised that I forgot to say a huge thank you to my parents and my aunty. I’ll have to write them a postcard instead – probably sent from Iquitos.

Parents and aunty at the airport, just before check in

The view out of the window was, until recently, a blanket of pure white cloud. I wonder if we’ve reached Spain, as everything I can see below, all of the fields and landscape, looks brown and parched. The sunlight has stolen its colour.

From our earlier talks in the wait before we boarded the plane, I think my group is going to get on well. Everyone seems pretty amiable, even though we clearly all come from opposing ends of the spectrum (private boarding school juxtaposing with basic state school) as well as different ends of the country (from Swansea to Orkney to Belfast to Southern England). I’m excited to get to know them better.

We should land relatively soon and then we have a lovely six-hour wait - but because this flight was delayed by half an hour, hopefully it will be slightly less.

25th of July 2011

Sea We are soon to land in Peru. I can't believe it. I saw the beginnings of the most beautiful sunrise, a striking red, yellow and blue amalgamation that made me gasp.

Now we are descending into clouds, which, in the deceptive dark, I thought, were the sea. I had good reason to though, as mountains and hills rose out of them. I guess they must just be very high mountains.

I can see Lima now, as the plane has made it through the clouds - all orange lights. It's still dark - 6am their time but 12pm British time - but I wish it wasn't. I want to truly be able to appreciate the new-ness of it, the differentness. But even in the dark I can tell that it is different, small square houses lining dusty streets.

We have landed. And so the adventure begins.

25th of July 2011 Flight We are just now on the last flight we’ll have to take for a good few weeks, and much to my surprise, this final plane to Iquitos is perfectly normal looking, modern plane – despite the rural destination. In fact it’s probably the most modern plane we‘ve been on!

I am slowly getting to know the rest of the people from other groups as well as my own. It’s nice – I haven’t yet met one person that I would have a problem with. I know first appearances can be deceiving but my plan is to be as nice as possible.

Lima is grey since daylight has come upon us. It appears a comfortable temperature but not hot and sunny as I was expecting. There has been a long wait in this airport for check-in and boarding passes, but everyone, is in good spirits even

though they are, we are all, very tired. I also managed to remember to take my malaria tablet. No side affects this time! I have decided I like travelling.

11am – Our first sighting of the jungle from the plane. It appears to go on forever – a green mass of trees far, far below us. I think I can see the Amazon River too, or at least parts of it – snaking its way through in uneven loops, while casting tiny bits of itself, tributaries, they’re perhaps called, deeper into the vegetation. I just can’t believe how much growth there is, how many trees. The view from the plane is awe-inspiring. I think we still have an hour’s flight left though. I can see now, why we can only get to Iquitos by plane. This is crazily amazing.

26th of July 2011 River I love Iquitos. It’s a buzzing, vibrant place, strange, in its newness. We arrived to the sweltering, humid heat of mid-day. I remember thinking that the air-conditioning on the plane must have been really, really, good.

There was a bit of a kerfuffle with rucksacks but we soon boarded the rickety bus to our hostel. The streets were sandy – and everything looked as though it had been built a long time ago, crusty paint featuring. It struck me that the city looked as though the Spanish, with their riches, had gone in and built up all of these beautiful, grand buildings and then, after independence was given to the Peruvian’s, left them to rot. Even so, the city was so alive. Tuc-tuc’s (rickshaws with motorbikes) were rife, along with motorbikes themselves. Perhaps my strongest memory is of a young girl, sandwiched between what appeared to be her father and brother, on the back of a motorbike going at least 40mph.

Of course we’re easily identifiable as tourists, what with our odd, foreign clothes, and pale (well for the others at least) skin. This meant that the locals flocked around us, like moths to light, as soon as we

went anywhere. Even so, I’ve been relishing in the

freedom BSES has given us. In the 24 hours spent at the hostel, we basically had free reign, apart from a couple of briefings and a

lovely trip to a restaurant, which happened to be floating! On the Amazon River! And although it was a bit unplanned, something which I generally hate, it’s been good.

The fire is bonding nicely. Especially George and Dave ha-ha. They especially make me laugh. George is a huge, deadpan nice guy, while Dave is equally nice with a cynical sense of humour and a fear of flying. I’ve been getting on splendidly with the girls too – we’re at present lying side by side in our hammocks! Our biggest bonding session however, was probably at the restaurant today. Entrusted with 350 nuevo sol’s (the local currency), we went to get lunch as a group. Some of the guys, James and George, got turtle curry! Against my better judgement, I tried some – it tasted like chicken.

We’re now on the Eduardo, a big three-storey boat. We each have individual hammocks (see below), and at present I’m sitting feet up, staring out at the Amazon River. Many other Young Explorers (as is the collective term for us) are also writing their diaries, teasing as we go. I’m tired.

27th of July 2011 Eduardo Still on the Eduardo “Ocho”. It was a long, sleepless night, spent out on the prow of the boat with Toby, Tasha and Sam. Instead of sleeping in my uncomfortable lacy hammock (all green and nippy) I slept under the stars last night, with the soothing scent of jasmine wafting in from the jungle, while the flashlight that kept the boat from crashing into the meandering banks of the Amazon kept me awake. Although we’re not in it yet, the jungle appears to have a particular, fresh, scent. There is debris floating by in the murky brown water that is not so much debris but plants, living plants that I guess must feed off the sediment in the water. According to Dan from the other fire, the reason for the Amazon being brown is due to healthy rivers picking up sediment.

It seems that the river goes on forever. It is so very vast. And yet there is still life – we never go more than a few feet without a peke-peke (motorised canoe) or floating house in sight. We are going deep into the jungle, but apparently humans are like a virus – they infect

everywhere, cutting down trees and sending rubbish down the biggest freshwater river in the world as they go. I sort of feel guilty for coming here, for being part of a group who is on a boat that is spilling oil into the river. It feels almost selfish, is the conservation work we’re doing enough?

Still getting on well with the group – I’m laughing at the baby of the group, sixteen-year-old Dan at the moment. I love his Welsh accent; it’s hilarious and he always seems happy. The inverse logarithmic scale has also been invented (we have in jokes, woooo!) – if you are 10 cool’s then that is far less minus 10.

Time is ticking by. I’m hungry again, even though lunch was gorgeous (see left). I’ll tell you one thing, Peruvian’s know how to cook! I was brave and even ate the savoury banana although I abstained from the meat. Still, at least five hours to go on the boat. Once I’ve finished this I might go upstairs to chill on the roof.

I’ve come to the conclusion that everyone here is very smart. They’re making me feel less intellectual that I thought I was. Need to get back into reading. One girl here read my relatively large book in about an hour and a half, Mita. Even so, my particular group is pretty down to earth. We have two aspiring zoologists, and a medical student as well as a geographer, however.

Accents are still a source of amusement. I’m going to go socialise! View from the Eduardo Ocho

28th of July 2011 Swimming We went for an epic swim after setting up camp and that made me immensely happy. I love the water! Fish were nibbling at us and I think that freaked out George and Sam (and me) but you got used to it. Tonight is our first night in the jungle!

We arrived in San Martine around 11 hours later than scheduled, or thereabouts. The end of the Eduardo Ocho was fun and funny, but tiring. I managed to catch a few hours sleep in my hammock, which was treacherously near the edge of the boat; I could be swung out, as Inigo attempted to do. The problem mainly lay in the fact that it was so dark and late and yet we knew we were going to have another two-hour bout journey. The second boat journey wasn’t too bad though. The majority of Fire B was in one section of a small boat and after a few nippy false starts and lots of laughs we were off – mosquito’s dancing around us as if we were their royalty. I swopped Sarah’s floor for my seat and managed to sleep basically the entirety of the time we were in motion.

29th of July 2011 Canoeing The little we saw of San Martine looked nice yesterday morning and we had a more than edible breakfast of egg and tomato rolls. It seems, however, that I shall definitely be losing weight on this trip, as rations are tight (only three cereal bars for lunch courtesy of ‘Harold’ – our resident cook for the time being).

After destroying our jungle camp this morning and a disgusting meal of porridge, we set off canoeing. It’s hard work, but I got to know Will, probably the person I’ve spoken to least in the group so far. He and I bitched about Dave’s lack of rowing (ha-ha) and we all (me, George, Dave and Will) complained about the heat. Today it was blistering, so Adam and Will are both burnt, but the sky was a gorgeous blue and the Amazon was exactly as I had imagined it. Beautiful! I also saw two gorgeous Morpho butterflies, which really made my day. Fluttering along the side of the bank they were huge; iridescent blue wings surrounded by a black outline that looks like paint seeping inwards.

We have now set up a new camp and the boys are just back from fishing. I’m cooking tonight! Woo!

31st of July 2011 Ill Illness has wreaked havoc in our fire for the past few days. In total, Dan, Amy, Dave, James and I have suffered variants from mild heat exhaustion to full blown malarial symptoms (see ill James below). Last night Dave was taken away in a boat after being bitten by an unidentified insect. He was pale and shaking – George, his partner in crime, was completely freaked and everyone was worried. Luckily they’re both back now.

Last night it majorly rained again. I was a wee bit dehydrated but I’ve drunk more today and feeling better. I have a tan! Well, more of a tan ha-ha. Still not missing anyone particularly but I read my best friend Roxy’s letter today when I had a bit of a headache and it was really sweet. She wrote it for “when I needed it” according to the lettering on the back.

Today actually, the group has split up. Half of us have gone up to the “lost cocha” which was our ultimate aim, while the others, including me, stayed at our current camp for a well-deserved rest. I don’t like canoeing, and dehydration/heat exhaustion two days in a row isn’t fun.

Must write in the moleskin group diary before I lose steam.

1st of August 2011 Month Today is three days until exam results! I can’t believe it.

I’m feeling really good today. I prefer our current camp – we’ve moved on to one that is in far nicer jungely surroundings. Dave is still feeling down, which is a shame. We’ve all been trying to cheer him up, to limited success.

I think I’m becoming acclimatised to the heat. It’s not as draining as it was before – and when James and I were out on the canoe earlier it was the most perfect temperature. It’s funny how the sounds of the jungle just blend and merge until there’s no sound at all. We’re adaptable, humans.

So today was another day of canoeing but only for one surprisingly relaxing hour, thank god. The groups are still split, which I sort of like but sort of abhor – ‘cause the full group mentality is gone for the time being.

It seems that the honeymoon period is over when it comes to how well the group is getting on. We’re settling in to patterns of patter – but people are beginning not to be afraid of getting angry at one another.

Just after a huge downpour here sometimes this white mist fills the air creating this foggy sheen over everything. The jungle can sometimes look like a murky English forest but its abundance of nature and heat makes it startling at times.

2nd of August 2011 Caiman I’m feeling good right now. All talced up, washed, wearing deodorant (an illegal substance in the rainforest) and only comfortably warm in my mosquito net.

Last night was beautiful. After a majorly disgusting dinner (my fault), we all got out onto the canoe at night and went to try and spot some caiman in “the lost cocha”. The star studded sky shuddered with a silent lightening strikes – it must have been from a storm far, far away – and the river looked serene as it glimmered. Fireflies still amaze me, and they were in abundance at the cocha, darting around – flitting fluorescent eyes in the starlight (the moon always appears to be hidden in the jungle). Antonio, our Peruvian guide, guided us around effortlessly – no surprise there – expertly avoiding the “traps” as he named the fishing nets. Speaking of which, the fish here are crazy little buggers, flipping out of the water at every shadow and nibbling us incessantly when we go swimming. The nibbling, although harmless, has actually put a lot of people off swimming, especially today!

But back to the cocha. After a few false moves, Antonio managed to catch a caiman and we were all able to hold it and take pictures with it! I was brave and held it too; got George to take a photo that I’m sure will be questionable due to the fact that I was shitting myself, ha-ha. It just felt so alive, and it was quite a petite little thing, only “uno” years old according to Antonio – just a baby.

Me and the baby caiman

For many, catching the caiman was the highlight of the trip so far. Sam, for instance, wants to go caiman hunting again! I was just so tired, fell asleep on the way back on the boat and fell into my uncomfortable ‘yoga mat’ that I use as a sleeping mat.

The next morning, this morning, we packed up camp in double quick time, left by half eight, and managed to canoe downstream back to our second day camp in an hour and a half! Impressive. We’ve re-set up camp here and for once I’m not cooking.

Sort of getting nervous for the amount of time left. Especially the jungle trek. By that point it will be just Siân, Sam, James (mosquito net buddy), George, Dan and I left to the mercy of the jungle! I miss the other half of the fire! Still, we’re reunited tomorrow.

James and I – but mainly me – have been nominated as the loudest out of the group. It’s weird because I still see myself as this unconfident adolescent, who I’m sure I was at some point, but now, it seems, I’ve truly changed when it comes to confidence levels. George and Sam take great delight in winding me up with extreme sarcasm though.

3rd of August 2011 Together Back together again! Realising why I didn’t want us to split up as a group! I hate canoeing, it’s official. After our half of the fire packed up camp today, Stevie G (one of the leaders) decided that we were going up a tributary that the other fire had travelled up the day before. I believe that this is due to his previous affirmation that “paddling is my passion”. Paddling is not my passion. I truly hate any sort of non-competitive exercise, however bad that sounds. It does reap its benefits though… and I have to admit – with shame – that Antonio, our Peruvian guide, did by far the majority of paddling in mine, Amy and James’s boat today. Although the final push at the end was worth it, and we all put in.

Tonight is luckily our last night before San Martine. I’ve been rather lazy today, but I’m so tired. By 2am tonight my exam results will have also come through. Amy is also getting hers tomorrow, as she’s Scottish too, but because she’s on the three-week expedition she might wait to receive them. Actually she said that if I do badly, she’ll open hers too because she thinks she’s done badly – understandably frank.

The food issues are becoming prominent. I’m hoping our time in the village will rectify my rapidly shrinking stomach. Apparently our trips to the shop in the village are limited to three, which is fair enough. I wish the food wasn’t such an issue – would leave my mind room for more important issues. At the moment, food, or its lack/disgustingness of it, is outweighing the scenery.

Tireder than tired now, but must mention the swim today! Was great fun with warm water (36.5 degrees) and lots of dunking, the river looking clear and blue from our angle rather than murky brown, stretched out in front of us – ripples glittered white with sun drenched brilliance. The fish bit us playfully – understatement, I freaked out and was nominated in kangaroo court due to their nibbling – often jumping over our heads and everything was splendid: “Let’s swim to San Martine and get food!”

p.s George fell into a hole. It was funny.

4th of August 2011 San Martine The best day of the trip so far.

Having come to the end of our paddling phase, we left canoe base camp at 8am sharp to travel across the Marañón River back to San Martine where we are to spend the rest of our week (phase 2). Sadly at the end of this phase the three-weekers are going home! Really rubbish, but it’s a nice way for them to finish of their time in Peru together.

Due to mine, Amy and Will’s vigorous paddling, we got to San Martine in a sweet seventeen minutes. Fire A was waiting for us on the shore, looking all clean and fresh. They don’t know what they’ve got coming!

They plunged us straight in at the deep end at San Martine. The rest of the five-weekers and I are in a group together doing yuca planting/processing (yuca being a type of cassava root – a staple food in these parts), which was nice. We got to sit down and peel yuca’s before replanting. At 1pm was lunch – yummy. Actually, there was a bit of confusion when it came to lunchtime, we were told it was at 12pm - it was actually a whole hour later… But it ended up being one of the best bits of the day, as I managed to phone home and receive my exam results! Our schedule and groups for activities and work in San Martine

Me and Amy walked up to the shop in a nervous fervour. I was shaking and hyperventilating a wee bit – ha-ha. We bought phone cards and I proceeded to call home “99-00-131-538-0036”. My Aunty answered the phone and was of course incredibly surprised to hear from me, squealing. I asked for my exam results, bricking it, and she screamed for my dad who came and read them out: Advanced Higher English, A; Advanced Higher History, B; Advanced Higher Music, A; Higher Media Studies, A. I got into Goldsmiths, University of London! I couldn’t, can’t, believe it. I had convinced myself that I hadn’t got the results! I’m sad but happy, considering Adjustment (where you can change your University place if you got higher than predicted grades), but don’t know if I can. Glasgow would still ultimately be my first choice I guess. I can’t believe I’m probably going to be leaving my family and friends behind – although I suppose this current experience is good practice for that separation.

Dinner tonight was bloody excellent. Best meal I’ve had in two weeks! It was a medley of savoury banana chips, and tomato, eggs and potatoes. The chips especially were gorgeous. No more porridge for breakfast! I won’t starve anymore.

Now, sitting around after minimal kangaroo court nominations with Sam and George. Topics of conversation have ranged as such – homeopathy, religion, diaries, schools, and “poshness”.

It’s been a good night!

5th of August 2011 Yuca Today was another amazing day in San Martine.

Up bright and early, we had a lovely breakfast of freshly baked bread, eggs, jam and butter. Soon afterwards, we went straight down to our sponsor’s houses to start work. It feels good that we’re being useful, but yuca planting in the hot, hot sun is difficult (see left). We were all getting head rush from dehydration. Luckily our sponsor, Senor José’s wife (an old-ish but very strong Peruvian lady) moved us onto washing the yuca we’d put in the “Rio” the day before. Julie, her fifteen-year-old daughter, and Lizae and Moyriaba came to help too. Julie seems lovely, and we all laughed a lot through the language barriers. The two little girls are so cute – I gave them the bubbles from Toys Galore to play with and showed them the jumping frog I’d

brought.

After a lovely lunch of spaghetti and veggies, we had a relaxing afternoon of painting and the surprisingly difficult task of bead bracelet making. We also played a bit of football and volleyball, and at the end I was given the privilege of writing the blog for Canoe Phase.

Still laughing a lot, and oh my god my eyebrows (saw myself in a mirror for the first time in a while).

6th of August Heat Not a nice morning of working with yuca yet again (see left). Was very hot, this acclimatisation process is taking a while. Wasn’t very happy but feeling better now after another beautiful dinner.

In the afternoon we made our traditional bracelets (see below) and necklaces and played a funny game of volleyball with, at points, us versus Candy, Morelia, little Will and family (our main sponsors). Through this, and other activities, I’ve been picking up tiny bits of Spanish. I really would like to immerse myself in a culture that’s completely foreign to me and learn a language properly.

So, UNO has been played with Candy and family (who knew they had UNO in Peru?), my Personal Project written out by the kind Raetar, and I am, as usual, very tired. I might buy him something for his time, after consulting Suze, our resident translator.

Suze’s story of how she learned languages (well, Spanish) has inspired me actually. She didn’t learn it that long ago, after she’d finished University, and yet she’s here, on one of a few similar projects she’s been on, with the all-important job of translator (considering barely anyone else from BSES speaks fluent Spanish).

7th of August 2011 Football Another uncomfortable sleep that led to a good day. As it was a Sunday today, there was no yuca planting and I was in a better mood!

In the morning we had a very interesting activity. Breakfast, by the way, was the best meal of the day. I’m going to miss savoury fried banana’s so much! The activity was archaeological. Having been told it involved not only a boat ride straight after breakfast, but a twenty-five minute walk, I wasn’t too keen. Regardless, I donned a bright orange buoyancy aid and partook. Not that I had a choice.

Definitely worth it! Not only for the uber cool possible Inca pottery finds, but for the history surrounding the site, and the lesser important fact that it wasn’t a twenty-five minute walk. The history was fascinating. The bit of land we were on was so elevated that it stayed dry during the wet season (or at least it didn’t get flooded) and that was apparently the reason for the pottery being buried there. Only found eighteen years ago by our guide’s grandfather, it’s suspected that Inca’s buried anything of value when the Spanish came and invaded. Pottery was apparently part of this, and they think it was buried around the 16th Century. We very illegally decided to try and get the pottery we found dated at the V&A at the request of the Peruvian’s. On the way back from the trip we had a laugh, splashed water into the boat and nearly capsized a few times.

After lunch was the football match. In all honesty, I didn’t play that well. Dan, Sam and Ali played incredibly well on the other hand, far better than I did – in fact, everyone played well! But we did lose 6-1. To make excuses, it was just so unbelievably hot. Everyone (apart from football-mad Sam) had to keep on subbing while the Peruvian’s, playing barefoot, wanted a ninety-minute match (we plated for an hour in the end). But it was a lot of fun.

Beautiful red red red sunset. We took photos at the pontoon at night and went possum hunting.

Getting worried for my return. Last time I went on a long holiday, way back in 2008, everything was different on my return. But I guess that doesn’t matter so much anymore because I’m moving to London four weeks after my return home. It’s not sunk in yet at all. Probably only will when I start packing up my stuff.

Ali dropped an animal shaped bombshell after dinner. I’m not going into it, but it concerned hierarchy and social subconscious experimentation. I was a peacock, fish (fucking fish!), a monkey and dog among other things.

A photo of the sunset in San Martine

8th of August Smell Today I have smelly hands. That is due to the bleeding’ yuca. As it’s a Monday we’ve been working as normal and today we processed yuca. We were wrong to presume that the processing meant drying out the yuca. Instead we were waiting for them to ferment and mould for the past two days. And today we had to separate the white mushiness from the hard bits of the plant; taking them out of the canoe where they’d been rotting, and making them into wee balls of a dough like consistency, which we put in a big sack. They freaking stank when our sponsor removed the palm leaves from. I had my nose held and was incredibly reluctant to touch them but, as I often have done on this trip, I gritted my teeth and got stuck in.

Luckily we finished an hour before 12pm and were treated to surprisingly delicious (considering the maggoty, rotten content) yuca fritters and a jelly coconut taken from a tree outside the house.

However, it is now 1.10pm and I can’t get the smell of yuca off my hands, even after using loads of chlorox… After lunch ends we’re going traditional fishing on the beach. Who knew there were beaches in the Amazon! Must bring my camera!

9th of August Cocoa

Lucy and I with two of the turtles

So the fishing last night was satisfactory. I forgot to bring my camera. We caught an abundance of small piranha but the main catch turned out to be turtles, which they captured so they could be ethically bred in their ‘swimming pool’. The net was cast three times at different points – each reaping different rewards.

The day ended with an impromptu church visit. I was with Ali, Will and James and as the only girl, had to sit on the left while they sat on the right. On a walk, we only went in as Will thought that one of our Peruvian friends was going to be playing the flute in the church at 7pm. Last time I heard it at night it was hauntingly beautiful hence why I complied with going in, but the flautist never appeared and after ten minutes of hauntingly familiar preaching – ahh missionaries, they went wide and far – I sneaked out during prayers. The boys

appeared soon after and we headed on up the walkway until I left them. On the solitary journey back to Asiendes I was barked at by a dog, tripped over running away from it, and later in the night got into an enlightening discussion with people about drugs.

I think certain debates shall continue with Amy, George, Sam and I, but I think they know how to handle it well anyway, so that’s fine. It’s funny how on an expedition such as this, where on some levels everyone has such a united focus, people can have such varying beliefs. It completely baffles me. I suppose it’s a lesson learned on all sides, and I’ve a feeling none of us will be changing our points of view on some issues at any time soon.

11th of August 2011 Trek th

Chocolate making is what followed on the 9 – our last full day in San Martine. Actually, the day began with more yuca processing with Senor Jose’s wife and family. More smelly hands unfortunately as we grated the yuca and then cooked in a blandera. I don’t think I was in a particularly good mood – too hot and the fire was burning my legs and eyes to oblivion.

Chocolate making process – 1.

Pick bright orange un-chocolately looking fruit.

2.

Cut fruit open and eat the jelly fruit surrounding cocoa beans.

3.

Toss and heat beans in pan.

4.

Break open cocoa beans outer shell

5.

Grind beans.

6.

Grind beans again with sugar.

7.

Make hot chocolate with cinnamon!

We had a fiesta on the last night at San Martine. Dan by far won the award for best costume – a coconut bra. Everyone was very inventive with a medley of natural face paint, plants, flowers and such. I was boring and simply put on the slip dress I brought with me, eyeliner and picked some flowers and put them in my hair. The smell of those flowers will forever remind me of San Martine.

Bare legs, bare feet – we danced with the local children and our hosts late into the night; Grandy, Amy and I even attempting some Ceilidh dancing at one point, but eventually resorting to the conga. Candy came up to me and stated in broken English, “now you look beautiful.” I told her she did too, as her words had cheered me no end. Actually, the whole night cheered me up as earlier I had fallen up the steps to Asiende’s and hurt my leg and thumb. Started feeling sorry for myself and had my second wobbly of the trip, meh.

The music they played for us was euphoric. No, it was sublime. Just a wooden flute and a drum but played in a way that made me want to dance, bare feet kicking up dust in time to the music. The kids were adorable. We picked them up, threw them around, much to their delight, and took tonnes of photos with them. I have to say though; the photos are very typical ‘gap yah’ (see left).

Memories: Handstands, human pyramids, Harold and the possum, our cat friend, Candy’s flirting, Dave and the Peruvian girls, James and Moriyaba.

Leaving The four-hour boat trip in the morning, which took us to Jungle base camp, was preceded by a teary goodbye as half of our fire departed home. To be honest, I couldn’t really feel very sorry for those on the bank when I knew that they were going back to warm, safe, home, whereas we were heading out into the unforgiving jungle! But I will miss them all a lot!

First impressions of Jungle camp were positive! Nice surroundings and all - even has a bench.

14th August 2011 Catch-Up Few days behind on the diary and well into Jungle trek now. It’s been stressful. Poor Siân got ill and I’ve thrown at least two embarrassing wobblies, if not more, over, err, various stresses. And porridge.

We have seen some pretty cool animals though. On the first day at Jungle Base Camp, Dan brought to our attention some monkeys, spider monkeys, and basically the first mammals we’d seen in the jungle, and since then we’ve seen a “shushubie” snake – a beautiful six foot green thing, with a rattling tail (which rattled furiously at Andy Major’s photo taking – Victoria, our resident doctor, had to basically pull him away as the snake got into the strike position) and a gorgeous silver strip down it’s scaly back and a tortoise which refused to withdraw from its shell. They call tortoises and turtles by the same name here, “Tortuga”.

I also saw the most beautiful blue egg – a turquoise colour, the guide informed us that is was a bird of paradise egg (see left), which was fitting considering its lovely colouring. Soon after I spotted a blue feather with gold on its underside. Unfortunately I dropped it before I could ask whether it was a bird of paradise feather (okay, just been informed that it will have been a blue and yellow macaw feather).

We’re at our second camp now, and opposite the science camp which is where we’re headed. I hate walking, and I think a pissed of James (who was incredibly nice during one of the wobbly’s in must be noted) agrees. A massive bullet ant (see left) bit him last night unfortunately.

Only two days till Science Camp!

15th August 2011 Porridge I HATE PORRIDGE! 10 days till Lois’s birthday. I miss my family and friends a lot. I’ll buy Lois and Natalie birthday presents in Iquitos.

Today has been another difficult day. We walked back to the guard station and took a canoe across the cocha, had another long walk, and then realised that it was a dead end. It was a most futile, humourless journey and everyone has been in a pretty shitey mood all day.

After walking back to the guard station we stopped for lunch, which was a welcome relief. One of the lovely Peruvian’s situated at the wooden hut – which was the guard station “Orma Rena” – invited us in for shade, as it was boiling. They treated us to a sort of limeade; apparently limes, or citrons (see left) as grow here, can be used as water purification means. After a twenty-minute break at Orma Rena we journeyed back down a well-trodden trail to be picked up by jungle hobo leader, Tim. We’d actually seen him and YE’s Bea, Sam and Izzy earlier.

The canoe journey across the cocha was hot and after we had to set up our first camp from scratch since canoe trek in the dense jungle. Stressful.

Now we’re all fed and washed – lying in adjacent sleeping positions as we construct a story word by word. Everyone’s happier, laughing even. I’ve still got the taste of the fantastic ration pack Bolognese we had for dinner, in my mouth.

Just looked at the photo of my friends. Miss them loads. So much will have changed by the time I get home. Only a week to go!

Science camp is apparently only 400m from here. Woo! Barely any walking to go!

16th August 2011 Walking It’s quarter to nine and we’re about to start our walk to Science Camp. Hopefully we’ll be there by twelve but no guarantees. Everyone’s very tired.

Roughly 7pm - It’s now bedtime after a slightly mellow day. The walk to Science Camp was only fifteen minutes! We were so happy and it was nice to see the other group, Fire A. We all swapped horror stories about the phases but Science Camp sounds as if it’ll be a lot easier than Jungle Trek, even though our starts shall be dead early.

Everyone has definitely been getting pissy today again, me included. James really reminds me of Oliver.

17th of August Science We’re at Science Camp (see left)! Happy to be here, on the other side of the cocha where we looked over so wistfully last week. However, so so tired after a very early start this morning to get to the camp for 7am. We got their bang on time and were treated to brunch – probably the best meal since San Martine.

Science Camp looks like it will be equally tedious and interesting. George and I are in a group together, which is dandy; as are Siân and Sam, and Dan and James.

Apparently, James and I are the moaniest in the group. I disagree ha-ha.

18th of August 2011 Transects Settling into Science Camp nicely – the amount of food especially has been a real treat (we’ve just found out that the Peruvian’s are going to cook lunch for us, every day!) Transects however, are quite boring. We have to walk 2km looking for animals in almost silence – although we do have a half and hour break before we turn back in which we sit and chat. Today George and I had an enlightening discussion about nuclear power. I sort of wish I knew more about science now, being surrounded by science nerds – I’m completely clueless.

The early wakes are going to be difficult, I fear. However, on transect apparently you see the most animals in the morning. Plus, the jungle, which I’m re-appreciating now we’ve only four days left, is cool and calm in the morning.

I’d love to learn about the ‘discovery of the rainforest’ by European travellers. NB: FLORA BRAILIENSIS on Von Martin, 1840 (Plate IX). When I get home I’m definitely looking it up. Twisting vines and trees fascinate me. In the jungle, it seems that many of the trees are lying. Dead for many years, they simply look alive because of the twisting vines that as well as quelling the trees life, give it a new lease of life.

Peruvian cooking completes me (see left). Freshly caught fish, there’s nothing like it. Tonight G and I are doing the caiman survey so we have quite a bit of free time until when we should start cooking dinner for everyone! Pasta tonight lads!

I’m going to read, wash, and do the moleskin.

19th of August Hunting Last night Sam, George and I went caiman hunting again. Sorry, surveying. I was so, so, so tired that I fell asleep on the boat at around 9pm but I did see a pretty massive black caiman – they are apparently the most vicious type and can get up to 6 metres long (a George x3 apparently). Speaking of which, James told us yesterday that George is one inch off being considered clinically disabled. I doubt the validity of this statement severely, but it is funny.

Woke up to Dan shouting “Breakfast!” welshly. I’m getting greatly better with breakfast. Ate a decent sized portion of quinoa and porridge with jam. After breakfast, “fish” began. We were out on the canoe on the most beautiful morning ever, surveying fish. I enjoyed it greatly, until the very end when I was too hot. The mist rose up into the sun filled sky, which seemed to go on infinitely – colours blending seamlessly.

Now we’re chilling in the Science hut – on my “lilo” (Amy’s sleeping mat which she kindly lent me), reading. I’m hungry!

20th of August 2011 Tortuga

The scenery on a morning survey at Science camp

I’m writing this on the canoe with Antonio and José (our respective scientist and guide) paddling and George and I sitting sedately, with “Helly Hansen” buoyancy aids on as we travel to do some bird watching. The sun is coming up on my back gently and the sky is clear and blue. It’s going to be another sweltering day. None of us are used to the extreme hotness of the mid-day sun as of yet, I think that it isn’t feasible to be in five weeks, considering the temperature sometimes peaks at over 40 degrees, but we did all say how cold it was this morning, when in actuality it was 23 degrees!

At 2am this morning we had to get up to go turtle egg hunting on beach with the guide and Theresa. No luck, but yesterday they came across twenty, including ‘viable’ ones (see right), which will be taken to Orma Rena – the guard station – and hatched free from poachers.

Regardless of the early start, I feel a little more chirpy today, having probably

got around six hours sleep.

22nd of August 2011 Fishing! On the canoe again, but this time fishing. I’ve caught three large red-bellied piranhas! Seems I’m okay the fishing lark. It feels cold today, for the first time in the over-four-weeks we’ve been here. Carachama fish caught on one of the fish surveys

Yesterday there was a relatively big storm and the boys took immense pleasure in “helping” me wash on the pontoon which was annoying but fun; as water fights always are, even if they are one sided.

Happily, because of the storm we had no activities in the afternoon (George and I were meant to be doing caiman which is a shame though), and it was a relatively good nights sleep for me – although I haven’t been sleeping that well here at all – waking up at least twice if not thrice or more per night. Actually, it was pretty freezing last night because of the storm, even in my sleeping bag.

Finished the book Andy Major lent me which he borrowed off Adrian the doctor and now passed it on to Siân. The past two days have been good actually. Banterous. We mucked about in the hut during the rainstorm and Peruvian’s cooked us another epic meal. No more head rushes!

23rd August 2011 Back We’re finally on a peke-peke back to San Martine having departed Science Camp at roughly 7am this morning.

To consolidate yesterday, it was a pleasant, cool day. After fishing we were all sent back up to the Orma Rena guard station to help carry some of the Science kit along the Segundo Renegal trail (Transect 4) to meet the chief leader and Suze (plus Peruvian’s) so that they could take it back to San Martine, a day before we had to leave. Finally, and perfectly timed as it

was our last day, I was gifted the opportunity to appreciate and view the jungle alone and at my own pace, as on the way back from this escapade Dan, James, Sam and I decided to run back down the trail. I couldn’t keep up with they guys and so had to fall back – hence the alone time.

I’ll miss the poetic trees – deceptive but beautiful, canopy towering overhead. I’ll miss the Peruvian’s – and how you can communicate with them without too much of a problem even with the language barriers (Adolofo, the oldest guide, and Antonio the scientist seem to like me) and their fantastic cooking (shuyo and carachama fish!). I’ll miss wearing no makeup and being free from social pressures in that sense. I’ll miss everyone in my fire, Siân, George, James, Sam, and Dan.

George and I did Transect 4 again as our last transect yesterday, after a dodgy lunch (I know I’m too fussy). I was hating on life initially but I took George’s advice on thinking of university things to keep myself entertained, and as transects go it wasn’t too bad. There’s quite a lot of stuff, however, that I’ve surmised that I need to buy. I think, also, after intense consideration, that I’ll sack the idea of Adjustment. Goldsmiths will be what I make of it, and I know I can make it good as long as I stay positive.

After Transect 4 was done we got a treat thanks to Antonio, who was our guide for the day and is also perhaps the only Peruvian we’ve met who knows a decent amount of English. Short in stature, as are most Peruvian’s (although one of the guys swears he saw a six-foot Peruvian at the airport along with a Peruvian nun), Antonio wears his hair curiously long and is University educated. Even so, he conforms to every other Peruvian stereotype I’ve noted as he blends seamlessly with the ambience of the place, and in a matter of minutes had the guards at Orma Rena willing to feed us. As always, the food was lovely. Jimmy and Dan were fed turtle at Orma Raena the other day! Although we didn’t eat turtle, I also got some Limon drink – which is actually made out of a fruit which is a genetic cross between a lime and a mandarin, and tastes as such.

Orma Rena, the guard station.

We were woken this morning to the sound of a Peruvian radio blasting music in the hut where the guides sleep. Not happy, but looking back, I appreciate the hilarity. We did have a nice Peruvian breakfast though – four mini savoury-boiled banana’s (must locate them in the UK), and fish in a tomatoey sauce. This made up for the rude awakening.

We then had to continue from yesterday in deconstructing the camp. Unfortunately, and much to my dismay, the jungle hobo that is leader Timothieus, landed me with one of the big green tarps to carry. Again, not happy. An hour into the walk I was even unhappier, straps digging into my shoulders from my broken bag and the tarp weighing me down on one side as it

was tied on irregularly. There were various obstacles – oars, fallen trees... But in the end we all made it, and it only took around two hours with healthy, but infrequent stoppages. Orange eat natural bars, a welcome change from the normal purple ones, were our rewards at the end of the trek, and the peke-peke was waiting for us.

We’re edging closer and closer to San Martine now, where food is apparently awaiting us. Sublime bars are our first priority! And then tomorrow, Iquitos! Oh, and fiesta tonight!

24th of August 2011 Past Here, in Peru, it’s easy to forget that you’re in the 21st century. All the places we’ve stayed, the transport, the pure living, has been at the upper end of primitive. But I love it. And the differences, although numerous, do not extend to the fundamentals. And now, as we sit watching horrific eighties hits on the “Sonia” boat (see left), I can say I’m truly appreciating this experience.

San Martine yesterday, as always, was bliss. We arrived just in time for lunch (rice, chicken with salsa, cucumber and tomatoes) and it was nice to chat to Fire D as the other fires were still on their various phases. As the other fires started to arrive we helped them off with their kit and eventually it was dinner – fresh, still warm bread (amaze!). After dinner there was a final goodbye and thank you with the San

Martinian’s where we gave them gifts and Toby was accepted as a local.

Although Science Camp was good, San Martine was definitely still my favourite phase. The water levels have dropped so much! On our way to Iquitos. 80’s music so far: Eye of the tiger, Billy Ocean, Take on me, Boy George.

25th of August 2011 End I am now very close to ending my time in Peru, and consequently this diary! It’s been a lovely past few days, although there was a horrid interjection yesterday.

Soon after I finished the previous diary entry, our chief leader, Steph, informed us that a boy had died on the BSES Arctic Svalbard expedition, having been mauled by a polar bear. As she spoke, at this point, not referencing gender, I watched as James deteriorated, as he had a friend on the Arctic expedition. Luckily, his worries were dispersed with ease when Steph told him the gender, but – as it so happened – Dan also had a male friend on the Arctic expedition and as Steph was unaware of the name of the boy, he didn’t know whether it was his friend or not. Therefore, the rest of the boat journey was fraught and tension filled. After departing the boat we had a two-hour bus journey to Iquitos – and luckily, as we got off the coach at 5pm, I was able to call my parents to confirm that it wasn’t Dan’s friend! Horrific news, but good for him, my parents were admittedly unwilling to provide us with information – and I feel bad for getting in an argument with my Dad thousands of miles away.

Dinner came next – our wee fire went and ate pizza after once more marvelling at the joys of the hostel (we have beds to sleep on!). It was really weird to see myself in a mirror – I have a tan and appear to have lost possibly a little weight. Pizza was good, see moleskin*.

Today was a brilliant day. Having a cold, refreshing shower for the first time in five weeks the night before, Siân and I woke up bright and early for breakfast. We were then effectively given free reign to do what ever we wanted – which mainly consisted of eating tonnes of ice-cream, shopping for presents and calling home to find out about exam results. Siân, James and George bought ‘penis poppers’, those hilarious items, and we all bought various forms of what I’m sure the Peruvian’s deem as tack, but we all love. Haggling in Spanish is fun “autre”. If it’s “dieze soles” it’s “para cinquo soles por favor Senorita/Senor?” Our whole fire, and others, inspired by Suze, bought wicked Peruvian trousers. I want to go home looking like a hippy! I think I’ve got all my presents sorted out but I had to ask Dan to lend me s/.10 cause the bank refused to take my dollars – too scraggly. For myself, I have a painting, a San Martine bracelet and the troosers of course.

While shopping actually, I had the scariest experience – I fell down a huge manhole, one leg completely gone! James belatedly grabbed me, pulling me out, and I was shaking for years afterwards. Will take a picture of a manhole tomorrow.

Memories: George’s laugh/screech, last meal/party – crazy dancing, Ari’s American Diner – sublime ice cream, 1 litre tub, lemon slushy courtesy of Siân, chocolate cake, eating tomatoes – signifies change, moleskin faff, ratings, Sam and George and universities, restaurant/hotel with parents on return, wearing Peruvian trousers for tomorrow!

1 litre ice cream & Me, Sam, Dan, James, George and Andy in the hostel lobby

26th of August 2011

Tomorrow This time tomorrow I’ll be home! We’re at present on a flight to Lima. This time – luckily – all our baggage and stuff will be taken care of, so no more horrid check-ins. Unfortunately three Young Explorer’s and three leaders were left behind in Lima due to trouble with check-in. I really hope Sam and James are on the flight, ‘cause I didn’t see them board.

I’m going to miss Peru and the wonderful people I’ve met on this trip a lot. Last night we had a leaving party thing with some questionable Peruvian DJ’s and even more questionable dancing. Stevie G was a special favourite, and we even got George and James, the non-dancers apparently, up for a while. I beasted at limbo and we all had a go on the pole.

So… Consolidating and reviewing. My favourite phase would have to have been the one spent in San Martine. My favourite day – the night of the San Martine party, but yesterday was a good laugh too, laughing until my stomach hurt at George’s screech, throwing a tantrum over 50 centimes (or 12.5p) and just generally enjoying the company of my new friends. I know that the likelihood of us staying in touch is slim, but hopefully we’ll all hang out for a wee bit over the next few years. Arowana Fire.

The plane is slowly descending on Lima now. Bit wobbly, but as someone told me, more people die during accidents with spoons than on plane crashes. It is now my mantra – spoons, spoons, spoons.

So yesterday I called Roxy, slightly nervously, having not spoken to her in five weeks. She sounded happy enough to hear from me, I think, and we had a brief conversation, which ended with “love-you’s and miss you’s”. I also called Lois as it was her birthday but to no avail – bitch didn’t pick up ha-ha. Left her an answer message though. Sucks how everyone’s bloody eighteen now, literally all of my best friends.

I wonder if home will be a shock to the system. I know it’s going to be cold, but apart from that? I’m actually quite nervous for going home – most probably due to the prospect of moving out. I remember saying to my parents as a child that I would never move out – unable to understand the concept of separation from the people who had been practically my whole life so far. I’m also nervous for seeing my friends. Four weeks after returning from a five-week expedition I leave to move to London. Will I ever regain my previous friendships to their entirety? I’m also wondering if Natalie got into Greenwich University or not. Guess I’ll find out all of this soon. All that I know at present is that it’s going to be a very scary, exciting, few weeks.

We’re now on the second eleven-hour flight. There was a huge kerfuffle with this flight too – with less than an hour to board we were informed that instead of luggage check-in being dealt with for us, we would have to do it ourselves, after our initial flimsy boarding passes were rejected at security. It must have been quite a sight for the locals; forty Young Explorer’s and leaders, mainly in brightly coloured stripy trousers, rushing through the airport. Although stressful, I thought it was quite fun and exciting –everyone managed to board just on time! I’m now sitting at a window seat – 5L – catching my final glances of the jungle with extra legroom to boot. Such a vast place.

I wonder if this expedition has changed me. If it has, I hope they’re not fleeting, superficial changes. Although unwilling to fully admit it to myself, I needed to become less judgemental and more grown up. I don’t believe that good traits opposing the latter stated have necessarily been shown in me throughout the expedition, but I do know the meaning of hard work now, and I can always attempt to be a new, better and refreshed person regardless. I see deforestation out the window now. I want to help.

30th of August 2011 Amazon 2011 I'm home. I had an amazing, hard, stressful, exciting, joyful, tearful, hilarious trip. It was, if not the hardest and best thing I've ever done in my life, one of them. I don't feel like the experience has changed me so much as given me a different perspective on life and an insight into my own capabilities. Missed my family and friends a lot.

Roxy and Lois, my two best friends, came and met me at Heathrow Airport, much to my elated surprise. We then went and stayed at a hotel in London for the night, after a days shopping in Covent Garden and Camden. We then had a lovely 8-hour car journey back up to Scotland, which wasn’t particularly nice, but we all just slept on one another’s shoulders. That same day, as we got back on the 28th, was Natalie’s eighteenth birthday. I went to her party at her house to surprise her (she'd invited everyone round for a party). She was very very surprised. She nearly screamed the house down, it was hilarious. After some gentle coaxing, they managed to persuade me to come out with them for the night - we went to a club called Lulu's uptown. I was very knackered and jetlagged but still had a good night. It was lovely to see my ethnics again.

My best friend Natalie also got the grades she needed to get into her London University, Greenwich, which is only a fiveminute bus journey from my campus. We’re both going to London! I can't believe it.

And I miss the Amazon and all my lovely friends that I made while there already.

Elite Arowana, just before we said goodbye.