Charleston City Paper: Dish Dining Guide, Winter 2024

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BLACKENED CHICKEN ALFREDO

Editor and Publisher: Andy Brack Assistant Publisher: Cris Temples

editorial

The Burrito Bowl red plate special at The Royal American Ashley Rose Stanol

Welcome to the Charleston City Paper’s winter version of our quarterly publication, Dish, in which we highlight the best of the best eats this city has to offer. In this issue, we give you what you really want — carbs, bars and the classics. OK, there’s some healthy stuff, too — you can’t go into the new year without some greens, after all.

We chatted with local bar owners about what makes their food more than bar food. You’ll learn about a wide variety of tinned seafoods, fresh weekly specials and flavorful small bites. Local watering holes are offering more than just deepfried food these days.

If all those bites (with a side of booze, naturally) have you craving something a little, err, healthier, look no further than South Carolina’s leafy staples. Writer Libby Wiersema offers the lowdown on cooking up collards and kale with three hearty recipes perfect for cold winter nights.

Speaking of South Carolina staples — we’ve got you covered when you’re looking for Lowcountry cuisine around town. We tracked down 13 classic Lowcountry dishes, from fried green

tomatoes to shrimp and grits, and chatted with local restaurateurs and chefs about what makes these classics so damn good. And while pizza certainly isn’t a traditional Lowcountry dish, it is ubiquitous. We’ve rounded up lots of pizza joints in the area for a handy guide to everyone’s favorite carbohydrate.

Our essay comes from local chef Jason Stanhope, who left uber-popular downtown restaurant FIG last summer to open two new spots where he says he hopes he’s creating magic.

As always, we’ve got you covered with our Top 50 list of restaurants; be sure to keep an eye out for some new additions.

And if you’re still dying to try the area’s newest and hottest spots, well, you can find those on the aptly titled CP Hotlist.

—Connelly Hardaway

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Elevated eats find their way onto local watering hole menus

Winter sweetens the deal for an elevated greens experience

Get a taste of some of the perennial Lowcountry favorites

4 || DISH || Winter 2024

Eat your greens

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Here’s where to go if you’re looking for something new

Our top restaurants in Charleston for winter 2024

The CP Hotlist

sales Advertising Director: Ashley Smith Account Executives: Aynsley Barnett Kristin Byars Mariana Robbins

design Art Director: Scott Suchy Production Director: Déla O’Callaghan Graphic Designer: Christina Bailey Photographers: Rūta Smith, Ashley Rose Stanol

distribution Circulation Team: James Barron, Stephen Jenkins, David Lampley, Spencer Martin, John Melnick, Judy Narry, Michael Pham Published by City Paper Publishing, LLC

on the cover Tinned seafood at Stems & Skins, photographed by Rūta Smith.

inside Don’t call it bar food

Managing Editor: Samantha Connors News: Skyler Baldwin, Herb Frazier, Connelly Hardaway, Chloe Hogan, Lily Levin, Hillary Reaves Contributors: Michael Pham, Libby Wiersema, Tiare Solis, Amethyst Ganaway

The Dish Top 50

13 classic Charleston dishes

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For the love of pizza Where to find slices of pie in the Lowcountry

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A list of all our advertisers in this issue

Chef Jason Stanhope changes to stay the same

Dish Advertising Directory

From FIG to something new

Dish is a publication of the Charleston City Paper and is published quarterly

by City Paper Publishing, LLC. All content is copyrighted and the property of City Paper Publishing, LLC. Charleston City Paper P.O. Box 21942 Charleston, SC 29413 (843) 577-5304 charlestoncitypaper.com

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Elevated eats find their way onto local watering hole menus

B

By Connelly Hardaway ar food, once relegated to the category of deep-fried delights, has come a long way in recent years, with more and more bars and restaurants pivoting to offering food that’s sometimes lighter and brighter and often just plain fun.

While we love good old-fashioned greasy bar bites, we wanted to take a deeper look at the hows and whys behind several local bars’ innovative food menus. From European influences to local inspirations, these bars choose to offer food you might not normally consider, well, “bar food.” Here’s what they had to say.

babas on cannon, babas on meeting,

6 || DISH || Winter 2024

Edward Crouse

For babas owner Edward Crouse, deciding what to serve at the all-day cafes, located on Cannon and Meeting streets, is easy: “We serve what we love to eat.” At babas, that looks like foods that are salty and crunchy and what Crouse calls “more-ish; after every bite we want things to be so craveable that folks say ‘just one more bite.’ ” Bite-sized items are the name of the game at babas, with a menu that features dishes like soft boiled farm eggs, pickled shrimp and gigante beans. These bites may be small, but they’re mighty. According to Crouse, the limited menu (one that hasn’t changed in five years) is designed with perfection in mind. “We have to focus on making one or two bites perfect. Every bite is more flavorful,” he said.

babas serves up small bites, coffee and cocktails all day long

Photos courtesy babas

The all-day cafes can be difficult to categorize, especially in an American landscape that loves to label. Much more than a coffee shop or even simply a cocktail bar

— but not quite a full-scale restaurant, babas is modeled after the European cafes that Crouse and his wife and business partner Marie Stitt frequented while living and studying in Northern Italy.

“It’s so incredible as a patron to have a fun, inviting, delicious spot to come in at every time of day,” Crouse said. The food program, designed by Crouse and babas’ head pastry chef, Amanda Plunkett, is

“We have to focus on making one or two bites perfect.

Every bite is more flavorful.”

—babas owner Edward Crouse

reminiscent of Italy’s aperitivo culture.

Aperitivo means, quite literally, “to open,” and refers to early evening drinks and snacks. Babas even offers an aperitivo spread on Fridays and Saturdays; patrons can nosh on free bites with the purchase of a cocktail or glass of wine.

“We just lifted the business models from France and Spain,” Crouse said.

“They get that we don’t want mozz sticks before dinner; we want things that are not that substantial.

“This might sound silly, but if we don’t hear from patrons that whatever they’re eating is the ‘best they’ve ever had!’ we keep working on it and pushing ourselves to make the very best version of

Rūta Smith

Stems & Skins offers a wide variety of tinned seafood and small plates like octopus skewers

Stems & Skins, Justin Croxall

For Stems & Skins co-owner Justin Croxall, an innovative food menu was born out of necessity. When he opened the Park Circle wine bar in 2016, there was no range hood or fryer, so he and his team had to figure out what kind of easy and delicious food they could serve in a pinch. Enter: tinned seafood.

Tinned seafood is currently in vogue — look no further than a May 2023 Bon Appetit article that claimed: “Few appetizers achieve the coveted balance of low-effort/luxurious with the ease of the best tinned fish on toast.”

Back when Stems & Skins first opened, though, tinned seafood wasn’t as ubiquitous, and folks were a little more hesitant to dip their toes into the canned fishy stuff. “I grew up watching my dad eat those gas station sardines and saltines,” laughed Croxall.

“A lot of people had that idea [about tinned seafood].” He said that after watching an Anthony Bourdain episode where Bourdain eats tinned seafood in Portugal and pairs it with wine, a lightbulb went off.

“Stylistically, we lean towards [the style of] a European bar, so tinned seafood seemed like an obvious accompaniment,” he said.

With over 15 tinned seafood options, from tuna to mackerel to anchovies, Stems & Skins has a little something for every palate. Croxall says the folks at Stems will help guide customers to find a tinned fish that works for them. “There have been very few times where we got someone to try it, and they didn’t like it,” he said. “Ninety five percent of the time, people are [pleasantly] surprised.”

In addition to the tinned seafood, you can find more tapas-style small bites, like octopus skewers, whipped ricotta and grilled asparagus. Like any wine bar worth its salt, Stems offers a solid charcuterie selection, too.

We’d be remiss not to mention the actual wine served at Stems & Skins; the wine program was a James Beard semifinalist for Outstanding Wine Program in 2019 and named one of “The 15 Most Important Natural Wine Bars in America” by Food & Wine in 2018.

In the same way that the spot offers more than just meats and cheeses, the bar serves up more than wine, offering continued on page 8

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Jonathan Boncek file photo

the thing we could possibly fathom, until it is,” said Crouse.

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The Royal American chef Kirsten Lawton creates fresh and fun weekly specials

bar food from page 7

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classic cocktails, too.

Stems & Skins has cycled through several chefs since opening; Croxall said that the small kitchen isn’t always conducive to a long-term tenure for chefs used to busier environments.

While new chefs will rotate in new dishes, the core menu remains the same, with longtime customers coming in specifically for tinned seafood, Iberican ham and handmade pasta, Croxall’s personal favorite item.

“We’re definitely at a stage [in the bar food scene] where people are looking for more interesting things,” Croxall said.

The Royal American, John Kenney

Where babas and Stems & Skins mimic European bars and cafes, The Royal

American is, well, all American. The 1950s era industrial-style building located on Morrison Drive serves as both a bar and popular music venue. Beloved by locals, Royal serves up a fairly extensive menu, with both the “usual” bar fare of fries and wings, but with a fun addition of weekly “staff meals” and red plate specials, too.

“We have always wanted to focus on simple, classic American fare. We pick regional favorites from around the country and try to execute them as authentically as possible,” said Royal American co-owner John Kenney, who added that he wants customers to connect to the nostalgia around the bar’s classic dishes.

Kenney said Royal’s chef Kirsten Lawton is the mastermind behind the weekly specials. “She amazes me every day with her talent, creativity and flavor combinations.

While we try to keep things simple and classic, she is always just a bit ahead of me and keeps the surprises coming.”

In addition to the classics — think continued on page 8

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Recent Royal specials include deconstructed chicken pot pie (above) and a pork belly bowl (right)

10 || DISH || Winter 2024

bar food from page 8

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double patty cheeseburgers and a grilled chili dog — you can nosh on hearty goods like disco fries, served with black pepper brown gravy and cheese sauce, and lighter fare like the herb grilled chicken salad, featuring grilled chicken served over mixed local greens.

“We get lots of feedback from our guests, and yes, we have definitely run with their suggestions before,” Kenney said. “Over the years, our Instagram page has become quite popular in terms of our weekly specials.” Recent specials include a Lowcountry boil, loaded baked potato salad, chicken pot pie and fried loaded sweet potato gnocchi.

Courtesy The Royal American

In the warmer months, Lawton creates dishes like fresh bowls of whipped feta and watermelon, gazpacho and tempura-fried green onion straws. Look no further than Royal’s Instagram comments for a loyal bunch of happy eaters praising the weekly specials with phrases like “Please publish a book of recipes, so many bangers” and “That is seriously like a life giving plate. …

Y’all are very inspiring to me.”

Kenny added, “We want our guests to feel like they are family. We take immense pride in our menu and put love and care into every dish we prepare. Our chefs source as many local products as possible, and we are committed to delivering a substantial value on each plate.”

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Winter sweetens the deal for an elevated greens experience

By Libby Wiersema s we plod knee-deep through the drudgery of winter, the taste of tomato sandwiches and buttered corn-on-thecob consigned to precious memory, let us train our gastronomic eye upon the season of cool-weather greens.

The South Carolina diet is anchored by a variety of leafy staples: pungent mustard and turnip greens, kale of all sorts, colorful chards and abundantly grown collards, so beloved they were named the official state vegetable in 2011. While harvested year-round in this region, greens take on sweeter notes when things get a bit chilly. That is because the colder temperatures trigger the transfer of water from leaf to root, thereby upping sugar concentrations. A few light frosts, and it is prime time for picking of the greens.

Nutritionally, greens hit the plate packing as they are high in vitamins, calcium and properties that help lower cholesterol and cancer risks. Mama knew she was doing you a solid by insisting you eat your fair share. Perhaps she added a smoky ham hock, a little sugar or splash of vinegar (or all three) to the pot to enhance the flavor profile and mask whatever was disagreeable to your youthful palate. My Sicilian mother mixed cooked collards with garlic, onion, breadcrumbs, egg and pecorino cheese to make vegetable fritters known in Italy as subrich (soo-brick). To this day, these crusty, savory patties are a go-to comfort food of mine.

While the versatility and health benefits of greens are impressive, the most prized pay-off for Southerners is likely

12 || DISH || Winter 2024

While harvested year-round in this region, greens take on sweeter notes when things get a bit chilly.

continued on page 14

Getty Images

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Greens from page 12 the good luck thought to be imparted by a New Year’s meal of greens, peas and pork. Even we who eschew superstition 364 days a year tend to be believers on that one auspicious day.

But back to the sweet talk: The time for an elevated greens experience is now.

The dipping temps not only mean milder greens, but it may signal your best chance to change the minds of those turned off by the bitter taste and funky bouquet greens emit while simmering.

To that end, here are three of my favorite greens recipes, each infused with the potential to turn haters into lovers while also awakening a routine winter menu.

FULL U MEILN B A LE AVA

Getty Images

Ribollita

I first had this hearty, greens-packed, bread-thickened vegetarian stew in Tuscany in 2016. It has been a staple of my cold-weather repertoire ever since. You can buy Tuscan kale (also called Italian kale, dinosaur kale or Lacinato kale) from area growers or at local grocers like Harris Teeter and Whole Foods.

14 || DISH || Winter 2024

INGREDIENTS ¹⁄³ cup of good quality extra virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 6 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 3 carrots, peeled and chopped 2 stalks of celery, washed and chopped 2 bunches of Tuscan kale, washed, stemmed and chopped 1 28-ounce can of Italian whole tomatoes 1 bay leaf, broken in half Leaves from 2 sprigs of fresh thyme

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Leaves from 2 sprigs of fresh oregano ½ cup dry red wine 1 15-ounce can of cannellini beans, drained ½ loaf of day-old Italian bread, torn into pieces 4 cups water Parmesan rind Crushed red pepper flakes to taste ½ tsp. salt ½ tsp. ground pepper Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

METHOD Empty tomatoes and juice in a large bowl and crush by hand until there are no large pieces. Set aside. In a cast iron soup pot over medium heat, sauté first four ingredients in olive oil until softened and aroma blooms in the air. (Do not brown.)

Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add kale and tomatoes with juice and herbs. Cook for 5 minutes. Pour in red wine and cook for another 3 minutes, then fold in cannellini beans. Drop half the torn bread into the pot and stir gently, then incorporate the water. Add the Parmesan rind and red pepper. Heat through. Adjust salt and pepper to taste. Top with remaining bread pieces, drizzle 1 tablespoon of olive oil, and slide the pot into the oven. Bake for 15 minutes or until bread is golden brown. Ladle into bowls and top with shaved Parmesan or Pecorino Romano.

Italian Collard Fritters (Subrich) A great way to use leftover greens. All kinds work in this recipe, so feel free to substitute.

INGREDIENTS 4 cups of cooked, chopped collards, drained 3 cloves of garlic, minced ½ of an onion, minced 2 eggs ¾ cup of fine breadcrumbs 3 Tbsp. grated Pecorino Romano cheese (may substitute Parmesan Reggiano) ¼ tsp. kosher salt ¹⁄8 tsp. ground black pepper Olive oil for frying

Libby Wiersema

METHOD Place cooled, cooked greens in a large mixing bowl. Add remaining ingredients (except oil), and mix well. Mixture should be moist and hold form as you shape them into patties. If too loose, add more breadcrumbs, a tablespoon at a time until desired consistency. In a heavy skillet, fry fritters in olive oil (turning once) over medium heat until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve.

Shredded Collards with Walnuts and Pickled Apples Chef Patty Griffey, former proprietor of the Latta country inn, Abingdon Manor, taught me to make this crunchy, raw collard salad years ago. A great dish any time of year, it will put a little spring in your winter step.

INGREDIENTS For pickled apples: 2 Gala apples, cored and cut into ¹⁄8 -inch wedges ½ cup cider vinegar 1 cup water ½ cup sugar 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. pickling spice For dressing: ½ cup walnut halves ¼ cup of olive oil 1 bunch of collards, washed and de-ribbed Salt and pepper to taste

charlestoncitypaper.com || 15

METHOD Bring vinegar, water, sugar, salt and pickling spice to a boil in a saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Add apples and return to a boil. Transfer apples and mixture to a heatproof bowl, cool, then chill until cold.

In a small skillet over medium heat, toast walnuts in oil until they darken a shade. Remove from heat and let cool. With a slotted spoon, transfer walnuts to a cutting board. (Reserve oil.) Coarsely chop 1 tablespoon of nuts and finely chop the remainder.

Stack collard leaves and tightly roll into a “cigar.” Slice crosswise into ½-inch strips. Transfer to a large bowl. Add finely chopped walnuts and reserved oil.

Toss with salt and pepper to taste. Drain pickled apples and add to the bowl. Toss again. Garnish servings with coarsely chopped walnuts.

Get a taste of some of the perennial Lowcountry favorites

16 || DISH || Winter 2024

By Connelly Hardaway

82 Queen’s she-crab soup is made with a pound of white crab meat

Courtesy 82 Queen

Charleston City Paper cuisine writer Eric Doksa in 2011 laid out “the ultimate taste of Charleston,” listing “Classics to Get Schooled In.” From she-crab soup to pimento cheese, he gave readers a taste, if you will, of all the Southern classics you’ve got to try around town.

Now, 13 years later, we’ve taken a look at 13 classic dishes around town. While times have changed — a cup of soup is gonna set you back more than $7 — these classic dishes have not. We asked local chefs and restaurants what makes their version of a Southern staple so special. We revisited some spots that Doksa mentioned years ago, and we looked at some people and places that have cropped up since that initial list. continued on page 18

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Classic from page 16 Some of these places are simply best-reviewed on Yelp and some just have clever twists on classics. By no means is this list exhaustive, and if we mention a version of fried chicken that isn’t your favorite, don’t take offense. This list is just an introduction: We encourage you to try every iteration of these dishes around town.

She-crab soup at 82 Queen

A Lowcountry favorite, she-crab soup is a bisque made with cream and crab. According to Discover South Carolina, the soup originated with Scotch-Irish settlers and was later influenced by the French and Creole who gave it a thicker consistency. Chef and butler William Deas is credited with adding crab roe to the dish in the early 1900s, which gives it its orange hue. Roe (fish eggs) can only be collected from female crabs, giving the soup its name. 82 Queen’s sous chef Lamont Ferrebee said the 42-year-old restaurant’s soup, made with a pound of white crab meat, is a longtime favorite for a reason: “Experience and consistency are the keys to any great product, and our she-crab soup is no different.”

Magnolias’ fried green tomatoes are served over white cheddar grits

18 || DISH || Winter 2024

Fried Chicken at Rudy Royale

Rudy Royale opened on East Bay Street in 2021; longtime Charlestonians may remember 209 East Bay St. as the former location of Wet Willies. In the spirit of that fun spot, Rudy Royale focuses on cocktails (bless) as well as their signature fried chicken. Chef Macready Downer had this to say about his popular dish: “Rudy Royale’s signature fried chicken is a dish that we take immense pride in as we work diligently to Andrew Cebulka ensure that each bite strikes the perfect balance between fresh, Rudy Royale’s classic Courtesy Magnolias juicy and crispy. Our commitfried chicken sammy ment is to prepare fried chicken that is well-seasoned and finished with a crispy crust, similar to chef Andy McLeod said: “Fleet’s stuffed a classic American version.” hush puppies call on traditional techniques and flavors to evoke a sense of comfort and familiarity unique to the Fried green tomatoes at Magnolias Lowcountry. From proudly featuring Both a popular 1991 comedy and a Lowcountry staple, ingredients born locally, I feel that this fried green tomatoes are as ubiquitous as good manners in dish embodies all the best of Charleston’s Charleston dining establishments. Head to Magnolias for culinary roots. I think the SHP are so the appetizer made with white cheddar and caramelized iconic because even if people have seen onion grits, country ham, tomato chutney and tomato butter. hush puppies before (which I think is Magnolias chef Don Drake said: “I like to say that our fried just a Southern thing), they’ve certainly green tomatoes are a taste of Charleston in one bite.” never seen tennis ball-sized hush puppies loaded with lobster and shrimp!”

Fleet Landing’s stuffed hush puppies

Nothing says comfort food like fried balls of cornbread, and you can find just that — hush puppies, of course — on many menus across the Lowcountry. Fleet Landing’s stuffed hush puppies stand out for adding a little extra umph. Fleet Landing

Bert & T’s desserts

You’ll find benne wafers at food stands and markets around the area. The quintessentially Charleston dessert

Andrew Cebulka

snack has been, according to the Historic Charleston Foundation, popular since colonial times when slaves from East continued on page 20

Fleet Landing’s stuffed hush puppies hit the spot

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Classic from page 18 Africa brought benne (the Bantu word for sesame) and planted it in the South.

Beyond benne, though, are additional, traditional Gullah candies that aren’t as well-known; local baker and Bert & T’s food truck owner Christina Miller sells these Gullah candies.

“I sell a variety of traditional Gullah candy on my food truck and online (local pickup and nationwide shipping),” Miller said. “The candies that I offer include groundnut cakes (crushed peanut candy) monkey meat (coconut candy), benne brittle and black walnut brittle. It’s hard to find the candy now (it used to be sold on the streets of downtown Charleston), but many people of my parents’ generation remember eating and making the candy at home as children.”

Fried fish at Bintü

In 2011, writer Eric Doksa sang the praises of fried fish. Thirteen years later, we’re still celebrating the Southern staple, but with a little added knowledge from West African chef Bintou N’Daw, owner of new downtown restaurant, Bintü’s Atelier.

The restaurant serves up a whole fried

snapper paired with your choice of sides.

N’Daw talked us through the “crucial event” that is eating a whole fish, called dieun and translated as “the fish” in the Wolof language, on the West African coast: “Every country lives heavily from the seafood caught the same day. The men fish early in the morning and the women sell their fish directly on the beach.

Nothing is going to a freezer or a fridge.

It’s for the same day. Small fishermen would bring sardines, dorades, croakers and also, at times, tilapia from the rivers.

If they get lucky, a big grouper or a tuna comes along, and it gets cut up or bought by the wealthy. It’s always served with a lot of fixings, rice or couscous but always eaten with respect for the sea and the fishermen that caught it. The dieun from Bintü’s is just that. Charleston is a port, and we should be able to eat a local seasonal fish fresh from the boat.”

Fried shrimp at Hank’s Seafood

Look no further than Hank’s Seafood — voted City Paper’s Best Seafood in Charleston just last year — for a satisfying platter of fried shrimp. Served with French fries and coleslaw, the classic

Courtesy Bintü Atelier

Bintü Atelier’s whole fried fish is a nod to the West African coast Lowcountry dish is fresh, simple and, when possible, local. Like many area restaurants, Hank’s is a partner of the South Carolina Aquarium’s Good Catch Program, which works to serve guests a higher percentage of local and sustainable seafood.

Lima beans at Bertha’s Kitchen

You can find lima beans (also known as butter beans) at most soul food restaurants around town. They’re the perfect accompaniment to soul food staples like fried pork chops and chicken wings.

Former City Paper contributor Allston

Rūta Smith file photo

Bert & T’s Gullah candies include groundnut cakes and monkey meat McCrady sang the praises of the meat and three platters served up daily at Bertha’s, which frequently makes it on Dish’s Top 50 list: “Businessmen, laborers and far-flung tourists alike shuffle through the quick cafeteria-style service counter loaded with a smorgasbord of meat and threes, such as fried pork chops, fish specials, yams, stewed greens, home-style mac-and-cheese, limas nestled with smoked turkey necks, dark roux okra soup, moist cornbread and fried chicken better than anyone’s Grandma ever made.”

20 || DISH || Winter 2024

Collards at Hannibal’s Kitchen

The James serves up Marylandstyle crab cakes with remoulade

Andrew Cebulka

Speaking of soul food, you can get your fix at Hannibal’s Kitchen, established in 1985 by the Huger Family and named after the family patriarch, Robert Lawrence Huger, who went by the nickname “Hannibal.” The restaurant is now owned by L. J. Huger and run by his daughters, Sani and Felicity, who serve up fresh Southern classics, including collard greens. According to NPR, the dense green dish “originated in the South during slavery. African slaves brought to America had to feed their families from precious few foods. Because greens such as collards grew abundantly, they often used them as the basis for one-pot meals.” At Hannibal’s, the collards can be ordered on their own or as a side to entrees like turkey wings and crab rice.

usually salty, sometimes sweet, varieties of bivalves available in the Lowcountry and farther afield. You really can’t go wrong ordering a plate of chargrilled oysters at Bowens Island, though, where the views are almost as good as the food.

Crab have been made in one form or another for hundreds of years. It is said that native peoples would cook and pick the crabs by hand and form their meat into ‘cakes’ using cornmeal before frying them in bear fat.” At The James, you can enjoy your crab cakes served with remoulade, asparagus and coleslaw.

Cornbread at Rodney Scott’s BBQ

Angie Mosier

Rodney Scott’s cornbread is served sweet just like his grandma made it

Chargrilled oysters at Bowens Island Restaurant

Oysters — served up raw, roasted and steamed, can be found in many restaurants and raw bars across the Lowcountry. We recommend checking them out at as many places as possible to get a true taste of the

You may head to Rodney Scott’s BBQ for a taste of his whole hog barbecue, but you’re going to want to sit down and stay a while to enjoy all his delectable sides, including his cornbread served with honey butter, inspired by Scott’s grandmother’s recipe. “Saturdays were spent at her house watching Soul Train, and she always made me a little plate of cornbread with some Cane Patch syrup on the side as a treat. We unapologetically make our cornbread sweet with honey butter as an homage to my grandmother, Saturdays and Soul Train, and it takes me back every time I take a bite,” said Scott.

Crab cake at The James

While crab cakes are often thought of as a mid-Atlantic delicacy — fear not,

The Glass Onion’s shrimp and grits

Courtesy Hank’s

Hank’s fried shrimp is fresh and, when possible, local Maryland, we’ll let y’all officially claim this dish — they are still plenty Southern and found on many local menus. Chris Meiklejohn, general manager of The James, which opened last year on James Island, acknowledged Maryland’s influence on his restaurant’s crab cake dish: “The tradition behind our crab cakes originates in Maryland, where ‘cakes made from the body meat of the Blue

Head to the Glass Onion for a taste of one of the Lowcountry’s most popular classic dishes, shrimp and grits. Opened in 2008 by chef Chris Stewart, the West Ashley restaurant is neighborhood-based and locally focused, with an emphasis on supporting local farmers and purveyors. In that vein, the menu changes often, based on what’s in season. Still, you’re more than likely to see shrimp and grits on there; a recent iteration was served with a New Orleans influence (we’re talking aligator sausage and creole tomatoes) and local shrimp from James Island-based Captain Harry’s. Pair the dish with a local beer from Munkle or Edmund’s Oast, and you’ve got yourself a real Charlestonbased winner of a dinner.

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Come to the eclectic little oyster bar where you can enjoy amazing seafood, a casual, fun atmosphere and have an extraordinary experience.

Where to find slices of pie in the Lowcountry

By Michael Pham

22 || DISH || Winter 2024

n the 2022 Spring Dish Dining Guide, Charleston City Paper asked the age-old important question: What’s so great about pizza, anyway?

Easy answer? “It’s the simplicity of it,” said Emeline food and beverage manager Adam Jimenez in the article.

But what we didn’t talk about were the vast styles pizza can come in. A simple Google search will yield: grandma pizza, wood-fired pizza, New Yorkstyle pizza, thin and crispy bar pies, Detroit, Chicago, Neapolitan, etc.

Ben D’Allesandro, co-owner of D’Allesandro’s Pizza, said he’s a fan of the thin, New York-style pizza, but really is “a fan of all types of pizza. You put enough tomato sauce and cheese on carbs, and it’s gonna be good one way or another.”

However, his brother Nick D’Allesandro, the other co-owner of D’Allesandro’s Pizza, has a different favorite:

Park Pizza serves up unique, seasonal pies Photo sby Ashley Rose Stanol

Ben D’Allesandro lives for New York-style pizza; his brother prefers the thicker Detroit style

the Detroit-style pizza, which can be found in the Summerville location of D’Allesandro’s Pizza.

“A lot of times I like to eat the thick crust, the [Detroit style-pizza],” Nick D’Allesandro told City Paper in 2022.

“It’s kind of pillowy and thick with some crunchiness.”

This time around, we also asked pizza connoisseur Ben D’Allesandro his opinion on the polarizing Chicago-style pizza: “It’s definitely a tasty pizza, if you can call it pizza. It’s more like a pie though.”

But whether you like it thick, thin, circular, rectangular or maybe even folded over (calzone, anyone?), there’s no shortage of pizzas in the Charleston area.

Here’s where to find ’em in alphabetical order:

A Dough Re Mi Pizza New York Style Mount Pleasant. 2700 N. Hwy. 17 #100 (843) 881-6989 adoughremi.com

Antonio’s Pizzeria New York Style North Charleston. 8636 Dorchester Road (843) 494-9154 antoniospizzeriaclassico.com

Amalfi’s Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria Neapolitan and Sicilian Style Mount Pleasant. 664 Long Point Road (843) 793-4265 amalfisofmountpleasant.com

Frannie & the Fox specializes in Neapolitan pizza

Rū

You’ll find Neapolitan pizza at Summerville’s Antica Napoli

Antica Napoli

Benny Mazzetto’s

Neapolitan Style Summerville. 4650 Ladson Road (843) 900-8604 anticanapolipizzeria.com

New York Style Summerville. 111 S. Main St. (843) 225-0873 bennysva.com

Athens Restaurant

Benny Palmetto’s

Greek Style James Island. 1739 Maybank Hwy., Suite G (843) 795-0957 athensofcharleston.com

New York Style Mount Pleasant. 433 W. Coleman Blvd.

(843) 388-4332 bennysva.com

Baker’s Bar

Benny Ravello’s

Traditional West Ashley. 6 Windermere Blvd.

(843) 207-4935 bakersbarchs.com

New York Style Downtown. 520 King St. (843) 414-7143 bennysva.com

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continued on page 24

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Rūta Smith file photo

ta S

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Pizza from page 23 Benny Rinaldi’s New York Style North Charleston. 1079 E. Montague Ave., Suite 100 (843) 900-3885 bennysva.com

Renzo’s woodfired pizzas change with the seasons

Brooklyn South Pizza New York Style Summerville. 10597 Dorchester Road (843) 900-8100

Coastal Crust Neapolitan Style James Island. 979 Harbor View Road (843) 576-4562 coastalcrust.com

Crust Wood Fired Pizza Neapolitan Style James Island. 1956 Maybank Hwy. #B (843) 762-5500 crustwoodfiredpizza.com

DeSano Pizza Bakery Neapolitan Style North Charleston. Charleston International Airport. Concourse B, 5500 International Blvd.

(843) 767-7000 desanopizza.com

D’Allesandro’s Pizza New York Style, Detroit Style Downtown. 229 St. Philip St. (843) 853-6337 Summerville. 414 Nexton Square Drive (843) 900-3593 dalspizza.com

EVO Pizzeria Neapolitan Style North Charleston. 1075 E. Montague Ave. (843) 225-1796 evopizza.com

24 || DISH || Winter 2024

Famulari’s Pizzeria New York Style, Chicago Style Cainhoy. 1721 Clements Ferry Road (843) 972-8001 Hanahan. 1000 Tanner Ford Blvd.

(843) 572-7105 James Island. 1291 Folly Road (843) 225-4646 Summerville. 105 Old Light Road (843) 821-7770 Summerville. 1​ 704 Old Trolley Road (843) 832-2222 West Ashley. 2408 Ashley River Road (843) 571-0555 famularis.com

Rūta Smith file photo

Fiore’s Pizza & Grinders

JI Pizza

Mellow Mushroom

Traditional West Ashley. 3642 Savannah Hwy. (843) 556-5571 fiorespizza.com

New York Style Johns Island. 2770 Maybank Hwy. (843) 559-9200

Traditional Mount Pleasant. 3110 N. Hwy. 17 (843) 881-4743 North Charleston. 4855 Tanger Outlet Blvd.

(843) 790-9000 West Ashley. 19 Magnolia Road (843) 747-4992 mellowmushroom.com

Frannie & the Fox Neapolitan Style Downtown. Hotel Emeline. 181 Church St. (843) 577-2644 hotelemeline.com

Gilroy’s Pizza Pub Irish Style Downtown. 353 King St. (843) 937-9200 gilroyspizza.com

Iggy’s Pizza Shop Traditional Mount Pleasant. 1220 Ben Sawyer Blvd.

(843) 388-7872 iggyspizzashop.com

Indaco Neapolitan Style Downtown. 526 King St. (843) 727-1228 indacorestaurant.com

Jet’s Pizza Detroit Style North Charleston. 5325 Park Forest Pkwy.

(843) 552-0311 Jetspizza.com

King’s Pizza New York Style Summerville. 3786 Ladson Road (843) 875-9630 kingspizza.co

La Pizzeria Brick Oven Mount Pleasant. 976 Houston Northcutt Blvd.

(843) 375-4607 mtplapizzeria.com

Laura Neapolitan Summerville. 101 N. Main St. (843) 738-6988 laurasummerville.com

Mario’s Italian Ristorante Traditional Downtown. 487 King St. (843) 641-0441 mariosristorante2.com

Melfi’s Roman Style Downtown. 721 King St. (843) 513-0307 eatatmelfis.com

Neon Tiger Vegan Style Downtown. 654 King St. (843) 640-3902 neontiger.com

New York City Pizza New York Style Downtown. 190 E. Bay St. (843) 805-5933 newyorkcitypizza.com

The Obstinate Daughter Traditional Sullivan’s Island. 2063 Middle St. (843) 416-5020 theobstinatedaughter.com

Orlando’s Brick Oven Pizza New York Style Mount Pleasant. 295 Seven Farms Drive (843) 884-6292 orlandospizza.com

Paisano’s Pizza Grill

Slice Co.

Traditional James Island. 1246 Camp Road (843) 762-1135 Mount Pleasant. 1151 Queensborough Blvd.

(843) 972-8853 West Ashley. 1798 Ashley River Road (843) 818-4969 paisanoschas.com

New York Style West Ashley. 1662 Savannah Hwy. #202 (843) 343-5827 slicecompany.com

Park Pizza Co. Traditional Park Circle. 1028 E. Montague Ave. (843) 225-7275 parkpizzaparkcircle.com

Pizza a Modo Mio New York Style West Ashley. 3125 Bees Ferry Road (843) 640-3897 modomiopizza.com

Pizza Pazzo Neapolitan Style Mount Pleasant. 1035 Johnnie Dodds Blvd.

(843) 972-8722 pizzapazzo.pizza

PizzaVola Express Italian Style, New York Style James Island. 1041 Folly Road (843) 804-9900 pizzavola.net

Pizzeria Di Giovanni New York Style Downtown. 40 N. Market St. (843) 727-6767 pizzeriadigiovanni.com

Renzo Neapolitan Style Downtown. 384 Huger St. (843) 952-7864 renzochs.com

Republic of Pizza Neapolitan Style Downtown. 451 King St. (843) 730-0000 republicofpizzas.com

Rog Pizzeria

Traditional Folly Beach. 16b Center St. (843) 900-0059 slicelife.com

Steel City Pizza Pittsburgh Style Mount Pleasant. 1440 Ben Sawyer Blvd.

North Charleston. 8600 Dorchester Road Summerville. 2511 North Main St. (843)-484-6500 steelcitypizza.com

VOTED BEST TRADITIONAL PIZZA SINCE 2019

Suna Restaurant Traditional Downtown. 141 Calhoun St. (843) 501-7322

Tolli’s Trattoria

PICK-UP & DELIVERY ORDER ONLINE at DALSPIZZA.COM 229 St. Philip St, Downtown 414 Nexton Square Dr, Summerville

Traditional John’s Island. 1803 Crowne Commons Way (843) 212-7893 tollistrattoria.com

Toni’s Detroit Style Pizza Detroit Style Mount Pleasant. 1795 Highway 17 (843) 416-8232 tonisdetroitpizza.com

Uptown Social New York Style Downtown. 587 King St. (843) 793-1837 uptownsocialchs.com

Vespa Pizzeria Neapolitan Style Daniel Island. 224 Seven Farms Drive (843) 881-0101 vespapizzeria.com

Woodhaven Pizza New York Style Mount Pleasant. 1701 Shoremeade Road woodhavenpizza.com

Zeppelin Pizza Co.

Sabatino’s Authentic New York City Pizza

New York Style, Detroit Style Johns Island. 2817 Maybank Hwy. (843) 764-9597 zeppelinpizzaco.com

New York Style Downtown. 151 Calhoun St. (843) 577-8861 sabatinosnypizza.com

This list is not exhaustive. If you have a place we missed, let us know!

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Traditional West Ashley. 720 Magnolia Road (406) 579-6649

Slice of Folly

CP Hotlist INTRODUCING THE

Here’s where to go if you’re looking for something new By City Paper staff This issue’s CP Hotlist shines a spotlight on notable, relatively new hot restaurants that impress our cuisine team. We encourage you to check them out and let us know whether you think they should be added to our Top 50 list. Now on the CP Hotlist (in alphabetical order):

26 || DISH || Winter 2024

Beautiful South (2023), Charleston. David Schuttenberg and Tina Heath-Schuttenberg, the team behind James Island’s Kwei Fei, are known for bringing the fiery flavors of China’s Sichuan Province to the Lowcountry. In August, they launched their second project downtown on Columbus Street, Beautiful South, which focuses on cuisine from southeastern China. While the beef and broccoli option is one of the most popular dishes on the menu, Schuttenberg told Charleston City Paper that many customers are excited about southeastern Chinese specialties — including street foods popular in Shanghai and Hong Kong. There are also plans to serve

Rūta Smith file photo

Beautiful South’s menu features Chinese-American takeout classics

whole-roasted duck and dim sum in the future. Moderate. Beautifulsouthchs. com. Lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Saturday.

Bintü Atelier (2023), Charleston.

Bintü Atelier serves up African cuisine to excited guests, who are eager to dive into familiar favorites like jollof rice, a fluffy rice dish with a connection to Charleston’s own red rice. Diners can also dig into dishes like goat egusi, a ground melon seed stew with pumpkin, spinach and a red pepper sauce, served with a side of starchy fufu. Chef N’Daw Young has cooked and traveled around the world, from her homelands of Senegal and France, to various countries in Africa, Europe and the U.S., landing in New York before moving to Charleston. Vegetarian options offered.

Moderate. Bintuatelier.com. Dinner, Thursday through Monday.

Honeysuckle Rose (2023), Charleston. Husband and wife restaurateurs Ryan and Kelleanne Jones opened a tasting menu concept, Honeysuckle Rose, last fall. The couple’s restaurant group, Free Reign Restaurants, includes Southbound, Community Table and soon-to-open Allora. Honeysuckle Rose offers an eight-course prix fixe meal with wine pairings curated for each course. The restaurant’s small size and darker lighting create a comfortable, carefully curated tasting experience.

Honeysuckle Rose hosts just four seatings weekly. The menu changes frequently based on what’s in season; check out the restaurant’s Instagram page for recent dishes. Very expensive.

Honeysucklerosechs.com. Dinner, Wednesday through Saturday.

King BBQ (2023), North Charleston. Shuai and Corrie Wang, owners of beloved Park Circle joint Jackrabbit Filly, opened their

Courtesy Honeysuckle Rose

The eight-course menu at new Westside restaurant Honeysuckle Rose changes with the seasons Chinese barbecue concept King BBQ last October in North Charleston.

The counter service spot opened after months of popular, sold-out pop-ups as well as publicity from national publications like Bon Appetit, which declared the spot one of its “10 Most Anticipated Restaurant Openings of Fall 2023.” The menu features plenty of meat — this is a barbecue spot, after all — in addition to hefty sandwiches and noodle dishes reminiscent of the Jackrabbit Filly offerings that customers have come to know and love.

The Wangs also want vegans and vegetarians to feel welcome at King BBQ; Shuai even created vegan Chinese barbecue “pork.” Be sure to follow along on Instagram for the restaurant’s fun and funky food and drink specials.

Moderate. Eatkingbbq.com. Lunch and dinner, Thursday through Monday.

Kultura (2023), Charleston. An homage to a Filipino grandmother’s home cooking, Kultura ties the fresh tastes of the Lowcountry to the Philippines. A must-try dish is the restaurant’s pancit made with rice noodles, local blue crab and vegetables in a calamansi sauce. Also of note is the Halo Halo cocktail — an enticing blend of purple yam (ube), pineapple, sake and oat milk.

Moderate. KulturaCharleston.com.

Lunch, Saturday through Sunday; Dinner, Thursday through Monday.

Lost Isle (2023), Johns Island.

Walking into this open-air concept feels a little like walking onto, well, a lost island. The name is fitting for a spot that’s quirky without trying too hard, featuring chandeliers floating among the Spanish moss of live oak trees. After checking out the menu, guests can order food and drinks and seat themselves. Chef Josh Taylor, formerly of Root Note Food, has crafted a seasonally focused menu with frequently changing specials and dishes, such as whipped ricotta with smoked tomato, wood-fired oysters with chili butter and Delmonico steak with chimichurri. Moderate. Lostislechs.com.

Open for dinner, daily.

Sullivan’s Fish Camp (2022), Sullivan’s Island. The third concept from the owner of Basic Kitchen and Post House (both in our Top 50), this eatery’s food offers tastes that are described as playful and perfect for the beach. There is a focus on Southern ingredients that create new takes on Fish Camp classics like shrimp linguine by using Tarvin Seafood shrimp, jalapeno and gouda hush puppies and, of course, yummy oysters. Moderate. Sullivansfishcamp. com. Lunch, dinner, daily.

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28 || DISH || Winter 2024

Rancho Lewis’ green chile pozole brings the flavors of the Mexico and West Texas stew to the Lowcountry Rūta Smith file photo

Making memories In an attempt to make it easier for you to find great restaurants in Charleston when searching for “food” results in a sea of suggestions, we offer The Dish Top 50 restaurants. From incredible, unique dining experiences like Sushi-Wa or Wild Common to more casual dining joints like Bertha’s Kitchen and Jack of Cups Saloon, there’s no shortage of fantastic dining experiences in town.

What sets these 50 establishments apart isn’t price or location. It’s the dedication each establishment puts into providing dining memories. This is the list to give family or friends visiting the city. It’s the list to scan through when you’re undecided. It’s a list with options for every budget. And it’s the list that, like Charleston and the seasons, is ever-changing.

Organized in alphabetical order.

167 Raw Oyster Bar SEAFOOD

Basic Kitchen CAFE

Moderate Downtown. 82 Wentworth St. (843) 789-4568 basickitchen.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Weekend Brunch

In a city filled with hearty Southern cuisine, sometimes it’s tricky to find a flavorful, light meal. Not the case at Basic Kitchen. According to co-owner Ben Towill, that has been exactly the goal since opening the restaurant with his wife Kate in 2017. “We want to provide massive flavor and a meal that’s hearty but still feels light,” he said. Robin Hollis, who took over as Basic Kitchen executive chef in July 2019, has honed in on this mission by creating more wholesome dishes that highlight vegetables from local purveyors. BK’s lunch menu is divided into small plates, bowls, salads, sandwiches and sweets. For dinner selections, it offers big plates like market fish with peach salsa, cilantro, avocado and lime or chicken or cauliflower schnitzel.

Expensive

Berkeley’s

Downtown. 193 King St. (843) 579-4997

SANDWICHES AND SUPPERS

167raw.com

Moderate

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Downtown, 624½ Rutledge Ave. (843) 501-7779 Serving Lunch, Dinner, Wed.-Mon)

Soak in the North Central neighborhood from the front patio and escape King Street crowds at this spot that feels like going over to a friend’s home for dinner.

Berkeley’s keeps its menu relatively simple but packs big flavor into each dish with plenty of options for meat-eaters and vegetarians alike. Opt for a traditional or vegetarian cheesesteak (made with mushrooms) or select another savory sandwich. If you’ve craving something heavier, look to chicken or eggplant parmesan, cavatappi or hanger continued on page 30

WATERFRONT DINING & TWO OUTDOOR BARS. A FAVORITE FOR BOTH VISITORS & LOCALS. HAPPY HOUR MON-FRI 4-7PM Lunch & Dinner Every Day at 11am Service Industry Night Tuesdays 8-11pm Food & Drink Specials!

WINE & LIQUOR SPECIALS } BEER, SPECIAL HAPPY HOUR MENU Sunday Brunch 11am – 1pm Big plates of Southern Comforts paired with a Specialty Brunch Cocktail Menu.

1313 Shrimp Boat Lane (843) 884-4440 • vickerysSC.com

charlestoncitypaper.com || 29

Surrounded by high-end boutiques, swanky inns, antique stores and art galleries, 167 Raw’s King Street home sits along a quiet stretch of storefronts. But fear not, it still boasts the same lineup of New England bivalves and lobster rolls that were much-lauded at its existing original (and teeny) spot at 289 East Bay St., which now operates as 167 Sushi Bar. The first floor of 167 Raw’s ever-socharming 19th century building is long and narrow, with original brick walls and a walnut bar. Even with four times (at least) as much seating as its original space, 167 Raw gets packed. Arrive early to tuck into your 10-hour carnita taco and tuna burger.

eatatberkeleys.com

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SUNSETS ON SHEM CREEK & THE CHARLESTON HARBOR.

Top 50 Top 50 from page 39 steak. One satisfied diner said, “The spicy shrimp polenta appetizer has been on my mind for weeks since I first tried it. It’s filling, flavorful and definitely more than enough to share. Pair it with the smoked salmon dip if you want to start your meal with a decadent seafood spread.”

Bertha’s Kitchen SOUL FOOD

Bistronomy by Nico FRENCH

SEAFOOD

One month after getting the keys to 64 Spring St., Bistronomy by Nico coowners Nico Romo and Dominique Chantepie opened the French bistro after revamping the space previously occupied by Josephine Wine Bar. The cuisine mirrors the vibrant atmosphere and draws on celebrated dishes from Romo’s 10 years at Fish, which closed in 2017 after 17 years on King Street. Romo calls Bistronomy’s menu approachable French cuisine with an Asian fusion twist. The menu changes seasonally, but at the time of publishing, it included items like frog

Charleston Grill MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive Downtown. 224 King St. (843) 577-4522

James Island. 1870 Bowens Island Road.

charlestongrill.com

bowensisland.com

Serving Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

not, we have a hard time passing up the Frogmore Stew, a pot full of potatoes, sausage, corn on the cob and shrimp steamed together as God intended it.

Moderate

Downtown. 64 Spring St. (843) 410-6221 bistronomybynico.com

Head up Meeting Street until you see a two-story robin’s egg blue building with purple trim and a line stretching out the door. The Southern soul food platters here are so tasty, generous and inexpensive, that the line starts forming well before it’s open for lunch. Businessmen, laborers and far-flung tourists alike shuffle through the quick cafeteria-style service counter loaded with a smorgasbord of meat and threes, such as fried pork chops, fish specials, yams, stewed

Bowens Island Restaurant

(843) 795-2757

Downtown. 2332 Meeting Street Road.

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Fri.)

legs, 24-hour short ribs, bouillabaisse and escargot rice dumplings. If you want to sample Romo’s fare in Mount Pleasant, his original bistro NICO sits right off of Shem Creek.

Expensive

Inexpensive (843) 554-6519

30 || DISH || Winter 2024

greens, home-style mac-and-cheese, limas nestled with smoked turkey necks, dark roux okra soup, moist cornbread and fried chicken better than anyone’s Grandma ever made. Bertha’s building was announced for sale earlier this year, but has since been taken off the market.

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Don’t expect white tablecloth and maitre d’service at Bowens Island. It’s famously no frills, but it’s worth it. The nightly crowds are a testament to the family fish camp. Since its founding in 1946, it’s grown from a grimy, albeit quaint, cinder block outpost to a pluff-mud pantheon that offers up damn good fried seafood, hushpuppies and cold local beer in its upstairs dining room. Follow your nose downstairs and elbow-out yourself a space at the all-you-can-eat oyster tables and slurp down tasty local oysters by the shovelful that were likely pulled off the marsh that day. Oyster season or

Serving Dinner (Wed.-Thurs.)

Amid ever-shifting culinary fashions, Charleston Grill has remained one of the city’s crown jewels by delivering a consistently flawless dining experience.

Chef de cuisine Suzy Castelloe’s dishes can be decadently lush, like her beef tenderloin with a red wine gastrique or seared foie gras, spiked with a strawberry jam and balsamic vinegar. The dishes are balanced, ingredient-centric creations, while contemporary spins on Southern cuisine are bold and satisfying.

The best way to experience the full sweep of the cuisine is to pick out items from each section of the menu and sit continued on page 32

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Top 50 fare, which offers plenty of bright flavors and unexpected twists. Masterful pasta anchors the primi selection, which includes ricotta gnudi tossed with mushrooms, guanciale (pork jowls) and vacche rosse parmesan cheese.

The secondi highlights fresh fish like swordfish and swordfish “marsala.” Pair any of these with an Italian wine from the impressive list, and you’ll have one splendid fish tale to share with friends.

Top 50 from page 30 back to enjoy the house jazz band tucked in the corner.

Chasing Sage MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Downtown. 267 Rutledge Avenue. (854) 444-3402 chasingsagerestaurant.com Serving dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Focused on farm-to-table cuisine, Chasing Sage is always a delight because you never quite know what dishes will appear on the menu. The plates rotate regularly, depending on what’s in season and what local purveyors provide. You might indulge in small plates like corn dumplings with bacon and chili oil or blue crab lettuce wraps topped with avocado and watermelon. Plates are organized by price and designed to be shared. Dishes are often veggie-forward, but there are plenty of options for meat eaters. If you’re dining with a large group, opt for the chef’s choice and let the kitchen decide.

Dave’s Carry-Out SOUL FOOD/SEAFOOD

Inexpensive Downtown. 42-C Morris St. (843) 577-7943 facebook.com/Daves-Carry-Out -111720082197029/ Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This soul food joint offers a true taste of Charleston. For under $10 you can get a takeout box filled to the brim with the best of Lowcountry cooking like pork chops, crispy chicken wings and fingerlickin’ ribs. The selection of sides is small but tasty — try the lima beans, thick steak fries, or rice. The lunch specials change daily, but your best bet is to go with a seafood platter, which ranges from $10 for a generous portion of shrimp to $20 for shrimp, fish, scallops and deviled crab. If you want a true local experience, opt for the lima beans and rice. It’s meaty and filling. A few tables allow customers to dine in, but most folks get their Dave’s to-go, whether for lunch or a greasy latenight snack.

Chez Nous FRENCH

Expensive Downtown. 6 Payne Court. (843) 579-3060 cheznouschs.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.), Sun. Brunch

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Most mornings before lunch, the Chez Nous Instagram feed (@cheznouscharleston) features a picture of the day’s menu, handwritten in black ink on a small white card in executive chef Jill Mathias’ eccentric and highly stylized script. Next comes a separate picture of each and every dish being served that day, taken from above in flawless light. Admittedly, it’s only seven pictures total, since Chez Nous serves just two starters, two entrees and two desserts, and the selection changes daily. The setting is charmingly old and the cuisine European-inspired, but it’s hardly a throwback to an older mode of dining. Chez Nous stands alone just as it is, an eccentric outlier. With such a dynamic menu, any review of Chez Nous is by necessity a fleeting snapshot.

Chubby Fish SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 252 Coming St. (843) 222-3949 chubbyfishcharleston.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Executive chef James London serves a

Delaney Oyster House SEAFOOD Rūta Smith file photo

Bowens Island Restaurant serves up fresh oysters on the marsh hyper-local, daily changing menu at this vibrant Coming Street restaurant, which opened in June 2018. And while the fish selection may vary, London is known for a few signature preparations. Expect raw oysters, crudos and likely one small plate that incorporates caviar. We recommend ordering several dishes and sharing with the group before finishing off with sweets from Life Raft Treats’ Cynthia Wong, who supplies Chubby Fish with dessert. Chubby Fish doesn’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the wait for one of 30 or so seats inside a restaurant that prides itself on turning under utilized types of fish into dishes you’ll crave for weeks.

Coda del Pesce ITALIAN/SEAFOOD

Expensive Isle of Palms. 1130 Ocean Blvd. (843) 242-8570 codadelpesce.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

With Coda del Pesce, chef/owner Ken Vedrinski of former downtown mainstay Trattoria Lucca headed out to Isle of Palms to create a beachside Italian seafood restaurant. The beautiful second-story dining room has brick walls, reclaimed wood floors and, in a rarity for the Lowcountry, floor-toceiling windows offering a lovely view of the Atlantic. It’s an ideal setting for Vedrinski’s signature high-end Italian

Expensive Downtown. 115 Calhoun St. (843) 594-0099 delaneyoysterhouse.com Serving Dinner (daily)

The Neighborhood Dining Group — owners of Husk — have converted an old single house on Calhoun Street into a stunner of a seafood restaurant.

The raw bar offerings range from local oysters and clams to hackleback caviar, and executive chef Will Fincher’s inventive small plates are stylish and intensely flavored. The menu has featured rich poached lobster tossed with mayo and lemon and scallops served with butternut squash farrotto, brown butter and sunflower seeds . Each dish is finished with a precise visual style that befits the picture-perfect setting. Grab a seat out on the second floor piazza, order a glass of chilled red wine and dig in.

Our go-to restaurant list

Edison James Island

Felix Cocktails et Cuisine

INTERNATIONAL

FRENCH BISTRO

Moderate

Moderate

James Island. 1014 Fort Johnson Road

Downtown. 550 King St. (843) 203-6297

(843) 872-5500

felixchs.com

Edisonjamesisland.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sun.), Brunch

Serving Dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

This is a place where you can taste the world with Lowcountry ingredients.

Co-owner and chef Joel Lucas puts his culinary skills to work in the kitchen with creative takes on international cuisine by using a rotating seasonal menu that highlights local produce and seafood available in the area. Start dinner off with the Vietnamese pho taco made with hoisin pork, glass noodles, cilantro, sprouts, ginger aioli and sriracha or the chef’s selection of charcuterie and cheeses, full-bodied sandwiches, soups and salads. Examples: the poached salmon burger, Thai chicken noodle soup and bistro steak salad. There also are hearty entrees like green curry meatballs, blackstrap braised beef short ribs with smoked gouda grits, panseared local swordfish with chimichurri, green peppercorns, asparagus and purple sweet potatoes.

Estadio TAPAS

Moderate Downtown. 122 Spring St. estadio-chs.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

FIG

Brunching with our Besties!

EVERY SATURDAY & SUNDAY 10AM – 3PM

MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive Downtown. 232 Meeting St. (843) 805-5900 eatatfig.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

In 2003, chef Mike Lata set out to prove that “food is good.” After blazing a trail for the robust local farm-to-table restaurant scene, FIG still stands out, winning awards and creating devotees year after year. Although snagging a reservation can be a challenge, the seasonally inspired cuisine and impeccable service are worth the effort.

Change is a constant, but stalwart menu standbys, like the pillowy ricotta gnocchi alla bolognese, never fail to satisfy. Be sure to check out the wine offerings, as — along with two nods for Best Chef Southeast — FIG is also a national James Beard award-winner for Outstanding Wine Program.

The Glass Onion NEW SOUTHERN

Moderate West Ashley. 1219 Savannah Hwy. (843) 225-1717 ilovetheglassonion.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Sat. Brunch

Since 2008, the Glass Onion has exemplified the “neighborhood favorite” category — a restaurant less formal and ambitious than a fine dining spot but still delivering seriously delicious meals. The continued on page 32

1090 Sam Rittenberg Blvd. | 843-766-0223 | MsRoses.com Open Lunch, Dinner, Saturday and Sunday Brunch

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Estadio, which opened on Spring Street in October 2019, is technically the second outpost of a successful Washington, D.C., Spanish-style bar and tapas restaurant. The decor and the deep sherry and gin selection echo the D.C. original, but executive chef Alex Eaton’s impressive menu is unique to Charleston. The pintxos and tapas — grilled shrimp on skewers, deviled eggs and caviar and matriano hash browns with black and white anchovies — offer beguiling little bites. Fresh local crudo and flat iron steak cooked with a poblano romesco and served with caramelized leek mashed potatoes are offered on the heavier side. With a slate of sherry cocktails, “gin tonics” made with rare Spanish brands and porróns of wine, Estadio brings a brilliant taste of Spain to the heart of downtown Charleston.

(Sat.-Sun.)

If you’re looking for a bright, comfortable French bistro in which to relax with delicious food with small plates and a soothing glass of wine or a cocktail, this is the place. We like a lot of what’s on the menu of this French-style bistro and bar, but will direct you to three classics that won’t disappoint – French onion soup, lobster deviled eggs and steak frites.

“Everything is exceptional,” said one patron who returns time and again. “If you are hungry and want a burger, get the Raclette Burger. Do not add any condiments, eat it as served. Be prepared to have a food orgasm.”

Top 50 Top 50 from page 33 offering blends the home cooking of chef/ owner Chris Stewart’s native Alabama with dishes and styles he absorbed while working in fine dining kitchens first in New Orleans and then in Charleston.

That means hearty, savory gumbo brimming with okra and sausage and Cajun fish cakes made with shrimp and catfish, served with Charleston red rice, collard greens and a red remoulade. While some have become staples on the menu like the shrimp po’boy, others rotate daily, with a new menu available every day at 11 a.m. on the website.

Halls Chophouse STEAKHOUSE

Expensive Downtown. 434 King St. (843) 727-0090 Hallschophouse.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Thurs.), Lunch (Sat.-Sun.)

Sure, there are newer and “hotter” restaurants, but Halls Chophouse is a special occasion classic for a reason. You can’t get better service with your steak, the wine list includes some unexpected offerings and the cocktails are generous.

And the steak, of course, is fabulous. Pro tip: order the giant tomahawk cut and split it. One diner told us to order any of the dried aged steaks, especially if you need a reason to cry tears of joy. “While I have only eaten there a few times for dinner,” he said. “I dream of the next opportunity to go back.”

Hannibal’s Kitchen SOUL FOOD

Inexpensive Downtown. 16 Blake St. (843) 722-2256 Hannibalkitchen.com

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Serving Lunch, Dinner (Sun.-Sat.)

Hannibal’s Kitchen is a no-frills soul joint on the East Side of downtown Charleston that, according to owner L.J. Huger, has “been feeding the soul of the city” for more than 40 years.

After serving the community for so many years, Hannibal’s has become an institution in the Charleston food scene. It was even listed on The New York Times 2021 top 50 restaurants in the country. Try the signature dish “crab and shrimp rice.” Salmon, shrimp and shark steak are three other hot items at lunch time. And don’t skip out on the traditional Southern sides including lima beans, okra soup, fried chicken, pork chops and collard greens.

Rūta Smith file photo

Sichuan peppercorns, chilis and ginger top Kwei Fei’s Sichuan Beef

Husk Restaurant NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive Downtown. 76 Queen St. (843) 577-2500 huskrestaurant.com Serving Dinner (daily), Sat.-Sun. Brunch

Husk has outposts in Nashville, Greenville and Savannah, but this location — housed in a white mansion on Queen Street — is the original. Here, the kitchen creates must-try marvels with a frequently changing menu like Southern fried chicken skins, “Kentuckyaki” pigs ear lettuce wraps or the hulking Carolina heritage pork chop, while dessert offerings include such innovations as the savory-sweet cornbread pudding. There’s a welcoming, rustic atmosphere indoors, but if weather permits, sit out on the upstairs porch and enjoy what is, without hesitation, Southern food at its best.

Jack of Cups Saloon INTERNATIONAL

Inexpensive Folly Beach. 34 Center St. (843) 633-0042 jackofcupssaloon.net Serving lunch, dinner (Wed.-Mon.)

Jack of Cups Saloon describes its cuisine

as “globally inspired comfort food made with love,” and anyone who has dined here understands why. Jack of Cups co-owner and chef Lesley Carroll puts creativity and care into every dish she develops. And she’s always quick to offer a smile or share a laugh with diners.

Menu offerings rotate with the seasons and incorporate unique, unexpected flavor combinations like the ever-popular red curry mac and cheese. Other unusual and delicious offerings that have popped up on the menu include Tom Kha Gai gnocchi, a traditional Vietnamese coconut broth-turned-sauce blended with a classic Italian dumpling, and Cap’N Crunch deviled eggs. Check the menu ahead of time to discover the latest Jack of Cups creations. One diner is particularly fond of the ever-changing menu. “The seasonal menu brings new, exciting changes every quarter,” she said.

“This summer’s Cashew Korma was hands down the best curry I’ve ever put in my mouth. Sweet and savory, I couldn’t get enough. I felt like I died and went to curry heaven.”

Jackrabbit Filly CHINESE

Moderate North Charleston. 4628 Spruill Ave. (843) 460-0037 jackrabbitfilly.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Wed.-Sat.), Sun. Brunch

The menu at Jackrabbit Filly — Shuai and Corrie Wang’s brick-and-mortar jump from their popular Short Grain food truck — takes quintessential Asian fare, and adds some vamp. The pork and cabbage dumplings are where Yangtze meets Ganges, with a rich mix of pork, cabbage, ginger and coriander encased inside the perfectly cooked pasta wrapper. Topped with a pungent chinkiang vinegar and Lao Gan Ma chili crisp sauce, the first bite is like suddenly finding something in life you hadn’t even realized was missing. Short Grain’s beloved karaage endures — the meat is juicy, the coating crunchy and the drizzle of lemon mayo and ponzu, along with some togarashi-induced heat, should be presented with the following disclaimer: “The karaage is a small structure made of chicken. It is delicious, and you are not ready for it.”

Our go-to restaurant list

Kwei Fei CHINESE

Moderate James Island. 1977 Maybank Hwy. kweifei.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Set next door to Charleston Pour House in the space previously occupied by The Lot, Kwei Fei’s interior looks the sameish, except now the chairs are yellow and you’ll find some Asian knick knacks scattered about. But the updates are the only understated thing about Kwei Fei. Pretty much nothing else — from the food to the music to the chef himself — can be described as subtle. Kwei Fei’s menu is an equally wild ride, offering an array of appetizers, entrees and veggiebased sides sorted into blocks labeled “Loud,” “Hot” and “Vibes.” The crescent dumplings are an outstanding way to give your tastebuds a crash course in the events to come. Made with ground pork and redolent Sichuan pepper, the five plump dumplings are served in a soybased, vinegary sauce and topped with fresh cilantro and chives. Hot, sour, salty, sweet: everyone’s here. On the “vibes” side

of things, vegetarians are well-taken care of with the dry-fried green beans. Here some rice makes sense and adds bulk to the dry, fried shiitakes and peppers, which are coated in sichuan peppercorn and fermented bean paste, served with mushrooms and of course, peppers.

comfortable, delicious and reliable.

Leon’s Fine Poultry & Oysters

Lewis’ building houses four custom-built smokers and a sausage smoker that can cook 1,600 links at a time, all hand-built

by Lewis and his father. Once inside, you’ll queue up to have meat hand-sliced by one of two meat-cutters stationed behind a long counter directing you to opposite ends. Lewis’ “life changing’’ beef brisket is definitely the star. The infinitely tender meat has a salty, peppery crust and shines with melted fat. But there’s also juicy smoked turkey, pulled pork, pork ribs and Texas sausage called “hot guts” available and priced by the pound (or hot guts by the link). After your tray is filled with your order of meats, choose your sides from mustardy potato salad, lemon slaw, cowboy beans and rich green chile corn pudding.

SEAFOOD

Moderate Downtown. 698 King St. (843) 531-6500 leonsoystershop.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

The chargrilled oysters at Leon’s embody the restaurant’s approach to food: unfussy and delicious. The “FryUp” platter is a choice of oysters, shrimp, catfish or clams battered and delicately fried and served with a tartar sauce so good we sometimes just dip a fork in it in between bites. If we know anything about restaurateurs Brooks Reitz and Tim Mink, it’s that they know how to design a restaurant that both looks and feels good. This is the kind of place that gets in your regular rotation because it’s

Ma’am Saab PAKISTANI

Lewis Barbecue

Moderate Charleston. 251 Meeting St. (843) 259-2660

BARBECUE

Expensive

MaamSaab.com

Downtown. 464 N. Nassau St. (843) 805-9500 lewisbarbecue.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Serving lunch (Fri.-Sat.) and dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

If you’re looking for “flavorland,” you should check out this elegant but nonwhite-tablecloth Pakistani restaurant that offers modern takes on time-tested dishes. Owners Maryam Ghaznavi and Raheel Gauba took Charleston by storm with their authentic Pakistani comfort food, first as a pop-up in 2019.

The couple introduced a new cuisine to the market, bringing to the table dishes like lamb biryani or aloo gobi.

You’ll also enjoy the rich, savory and spicy flavors of chicken tikka and butter chicken. And the fresh naan? It’s to die for. Don’t forget the restaurant’s Mount Pleasant roadhouse called Malika Pakistani Chai Canteen in the Towne Center where you can get Pakistani street food such as samosa chaats, aloo tikki, dhamaka burger and more. continued on page 36

Legendary Catering Visit LegendDeli.com to place your catering order 843-450-3043 | 41-A George St, Downtown

charlestoncitypaper.com || 35

ELEVATE YOUR EVENT WITH OUR HANDCRAFTED SANDWICHES!

Top 50 promise of locally sourced seafood and lots of buzz.The Ordinary was the first of its kind. While regularly packed and filled with an upbeat ambiance, The Ordinary’s high ceilings diffuse the jovial noise to a pleasant buzz. Along with six daily varieties of raw oysters on the half shell, the house-smoked oysters are not to be missed. Presented in an oil and vinegarfilled preserve jar and spiked with slices of crisp pickled celery, the six oysters are so gently smoked that they are still raw. As a result, each is tender and juicy, the delicate hint of ocean flavor touched with woodsy smoke. Served with fancied-up saltines (brushed with butter and Old Bay), rich, cold creme fraiche and vibrant hot sauce, the combination is outstanding: cool, crisp and smoky all at once.

Top 50 from page 35

Maya del Sol Kitchen MEXICAN

Moderate North Charleston. 1813 Suite B Reynolds Ave. (843) 225-2390 Raulsmayadelsol.com Serving Lunch (Wed.-Fri., Sun.), Dinner (Thurs.Sat., reservation only)

Maya del Sol Kitchen is a good passion project for chef and owner Raul Sanchez, and it clearly shows. When the kitchen first opened in 2021, Sanchez started by offering his five-course chef’s table. He now serves lunch and brunch, too, where you can find Mexican standards like pozole, tamales or tacos al pastor. But if you’re looking for something a little heartier, try items on the rotating menu, such as the beef heart guisado (stewed beef heart) or puerco asado (roasted pork). Pro-tip: Check Instagram or Facebook for the lunch and brunch menus. For dinner, Sanchez is always cooking something special for his chef’s tasting menu, whether he creates dishes inspired by family recipes or hosts a themed night like an Italian dinner or an international ceviche special. Give the restaurant a ring for a seat at the table.

Peninsula Grill NEW SOUTHERN

Very Expensive Downtown. 112 N. Market St. (843) 723-0700 peninsulagrill.com Serving Dinner (daily)

Oak Steakhouse STEAKHOUSE

Expensive Downtown. 17 Broad St. (843) 722-4220

Lindsay Shorter

oaksteakhouserestaurant.com

36 || DISH || Winter 2024

Serving Dinner (daily)

Located in a restored 150-year-old bank building, Oak is a long-running favorite for a big Charleston night out.

Hefty prime ribeyes and strips are the main attractions, with luxurious familystyle accompaniments like creamy whipped potatoes and lobster mac and cheese. Within the traditional steakhouse format, there is always a twist or two, like a daily local seafood special or beef belly with sorghum barbecue sauce. The deep wine list focuses on California reds, and the service is reliably top-notch, regardless of whether you eat downstairs in the bar area, with its exposed brick walls and clubby red leather booths, or at the white clothdraped tables in the second story dining room, its high windows looking out over Broad Street.

Head to The Ordinary for its New England-style fish chowder served with sourdough croutons and dill

The Obstinate Daughter SEAFOOD/SOUTHERN

Moderate Sullivan’s Island. 2063 Middle St. (843) 416-5020 theobstinatedaughter.com Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

At The Obstinate Daughter, executive chef Jacques Larson’s big, open kitchen has a plancha and a wood-fired oven, and he uses it to create a beguiling array of pizzas, pastas and small plates. The pizzas bear tempting toppings, like guanciale, white anchovy or pancetta. The dishes on the rotating “plates” menu range in size from griddled octopus with crispy potatoes and black olive tapenade to swordfish siciliana with green olives, capers, tomatoes, raisins and currant. Fluffy ricotta gnocchi are topped with an intensely flavorful short

rib ragu with tender strands of beef in a pool of reddish orange tomato-tinged jus.

OD boasts a cheery, casual environment for enjoying Larson’s impressive parade of delicate but flavorful dishes. And that makes it one of the best upscale dining destinations not just out on the beaches, but anywhere in town.

The Ordinary SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 544 King St. (843) 414-7060 eattheordinary.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

In December 2012, a historic King Street bank building found new life as an upscale oyster hall. The Ordinary — second child of Adam Nemirow and chef Mike Lata — opened with soaring 22-foot ceilings, the

There are milestones in life that require a fancy steak. Or at least the kind of place where one can get a fancy steak. If you’re in the midst of such an occasion, Peninsula Grill has got you covered. Even after more than two decades, Peninsula Grill continues to impress with its luxurious fare. Executive chef Kalen Fortuna has taken the helm, bringing with him over a decade of fine dining experience with plans to change the restaurant’s course. “We’re trying to take it in a much more refined aspect,” Fortuna said about the restaurant’s new direction. “A lot less meat and the stuff that’s been there for a long time. It’s really just trying to put nice, beautifully composed plates on the dish and working a lot with local farmers and seafood.”

Philosophia GREEK

Moderate to expensive Mount Pleasant. 909 Houston Northcutt Blvd.

(854) 227-5738 philosophiamountpleasant.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This East Cooper restaurant blends the joy of dining with friendship and a menu that rocks Greek cuisine. “Amazingly good Greek food,” one satisfied gourmand said. Favorites include starters of pesto hummus and Greek pimento cheese and main dishes of pastitsio, whole branzino and stuffed leg of lamb. Wow.

Our go-to restaurant list

A DINNER YOU WON’T FORGET

J

oin us for a communal dinner dining experience where you’ll have the best seats in the house.

Chef Raul Sanchez’s five-course chef’s table experience is a traditional Mexican menu which changes weekly to reflect seasonal ingredients.

For dinner reservations, visit us at raulsmayadelsol.com 1816 Reynolds Ave. Suite B • North Charleston • 843-225-2390

Jonathan Boncek

Mount Pleasant’s Philosophia serves up decadent Greek fare like octopus over chickpea salad

Post House Restaurant MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Mount Pleasant. 101 Pitt St. (843) 203-7678 theposthouseinn.com Serving Dinner (daily); Weekend Brunch

A Family Owned Business Since 1968

Largest inventory in Charleston Retail • Wholesale • Fintech Service

CUSTOMER PARKING BEHIND THE BUILDING • ACCESS FROM MEETING & REID ST

Reid

EXPENSIVE

St.

Downtown, 212 Rutledge Ave. West Ashley, 1337 Ashley River Road.

(843) 789-0725

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rutledgekitchen.com

R Kitchen brings diners an exciting new continued on page 38

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Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

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418 Meeting St. (Corner of Meeting & Reid) • 843-723-0077 • burrisliquors.com

charlestoncitypaper.com || 37

Entrance to & from Reid St.

R Kitchen

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Post House Restaurant opened in Mount Pleasant in August 2020 after undergoing significant renovations led by Kate and Ben Towill of design and hospitality firm Basic Projects. Post House is a reincarnation of The Old Village Post House, which closed in February 2019 after 16 years at 101 Pitt St. The Towills completely redesigned the circa-1896 space, moving the main dining room to the back of the restaurant and the bar to face Pitt Street.

The space is adorned with antiques, vintage rugs, local art, archival wallpaper and handcrafted fixtures. You’ll find seasonal snacks, raw bar options, fresh pastas, local seafood and an assortment of vegetarian

dishes at Post House. Local seafood massaman curry, Carolina heritage farm pork with creamy kimchi collard greens and a “backbar” cheeseburger are some of the main dishes that pair with starters like lamb wraps or Anson Mills cornbread.

Post House also features an expansive wine list with bottles from around the world, and those looking for a staycation can grab a room in the quaint inn connected to the restaurant.

Top 50 Top 50 from page 37

Rodney Scott’s BBQ BARBECUE

holeycitybagels.com

experience every night. At both locations, enjoy intimate dining settings while getting up-close and personal with a rotating line up of chefs creating that night’s five-course meal. R Kitchen is quick to remind guests that it’s a kitchen, not a restaurant. The menu is always a surprise — to both diners and chefs, who create the dishes each morning based on what ingredients the kitchen received that day. On a recent trip to the West Ashley location, a loaded potato soup, short rib dish and French toast with bacon made an appearance on the menu.

Be sure to make a reservation in advance as these kitchens fill quickly.

Rancho Lewis TEX-MEX

Moderate Charleston Neck, 1503 King St. (843) 996-4500

BAGELS • BAGEL SANDWICHES • COFFEE • ESPRESSO BAR FREE PARKING • ORDER ONLINE • CATERING AVAILABLE 43 CANNON ST • DOWNTOWN • 843-212-3680 • CLOSED TUESDAYS

SHANA SWAIN VOTED BEST REALTOR 2023

38 || DISH || Winter 2024

MORE THAN $23M CLOSED IN 3 YEARS

Shana R. Swain, REALTOR 843-224-8400 shana.swain@carolinaone.com

Inexpensive Downtown. 1011 King St. (843) 990-9535 rodneyscottsbbq.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Rodney Scott made waves in 2017 when, after two decades of cooking hogs at his family’s acclaimed operation in Hemingway, he brought his traditional burn barrel style of barbecue down to Charleston. That splendid whole hog — basted in a pepper-laced sauce and pulled into long, succulent strands — remains the foundation of Scott’s offering on King Street, but he’s added a few new options for the city crowd, like meaty spareribs, crisp fried catfish and craft beer on tap. The flawless collards and the ribeye sandwiches, made from pitsmoked steak sliced thin and piled high on soft rolls, are must-try sleepers.

Rancholewischs.com

Royal Tern

Serving Lunch and Dinner (Mon.-Sun.)

SEAFOOD

Barbecue chef extraordinaire John Lewis adds Tex-Mex to his culinary mix with Rancho Lewis, where he uses his favorite Hatch chiles in many dishes. The tortillas are made fresh onsite, and, if you can stray from the tempting tacos, the burger — made with brisket — is terrific.

Don’t forget in-house classics like the Christmas burrito or fabulous enchiladas. If you’re looking for Mexican fresh, this is the place to visit. One diner raved: “Don’t leave without eating the steak fajitas. Period.”

Renzo PIZZA

Moderate Downtown. 384 Huger St. (843) 952-7864 renzochs.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This former storefront-turned-hip neighborhood trattoria has a wood-fired oven and knows how to use it. Along with tempting starters like ricotta gnudi, charred broccolini or cavatelli, the menu features a trio of pastas, plus an array of creative Neapolitan-style pizzas. Feeling adventurous? The Cheli offers a tomato base with lamb sausage, tangy pickled peppers, honey and za’atar. There’s a bagel brunch on Sundays, plus Renzo offers one of the area’s largest selections of natural wine.

Expensive Johns Island. 3005 Maybank Hwy. (843) 718-3434 theroyaltern.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Set on Johns Island between Wild Olive and Minero, The Royal Tern is a welcome and well-positioned addition to that existing pair of successful Maybank Highway restaurants. With a focus on fish, the menu offers an aquarium-full of options. Along with a raw bar, there are a handful of sandwiches, a half-dozen seafood entrees and a hat trick of woodfired steaks. The building is also glorious.

Outside, it’s effortlessly stylish and would look just as appropriate nestled amongst a row of upscale beachfront estates. Inside, the chic, airy space boasts wood floors and high ceilings adorned with dramatic lights that resemble giant clusters of white grapes. The interior incorporates a number of current trends, including an open kitchen, marble-topped bar and miles of banquette seating. One of the best-looking joints in the area, The Royal Tern offers a hip place to scratch a variety of seafood itches on Johns Island.

SHIKI SEAFOOD

Moderate Downtown. 334 E Bay St. (843) 720-8568 shikicharleston.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

To view active listings visit ShanaSwainRealtor.com

One of downtown’s longest standing restaurants, SHIKI delivers fresh sushi

Our go-to restaurant list

rolls, nigiri and more in a cozy, recently renovated dining room. Owner Hae Gon “David” Park opened SHIKI at 334 East Bay St. in 2001 after moving to Charleston from New York City, where he worked at esteemed sushi restaurants like Yuraku, serving as head sushi chef for five years. The chef prides himself on sourcing the highest-quality fish and his technique when making rolls, sashimi and nigiri that is second to none. Patrons who want to go big can order the chef’s choice “omakase,” which translates to “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese. Chef Park will bring out a seemingly endless assortment of sashimi and nigiri bites, allowing guests to try a little bit of everything.

For less devout sushi enthusiasts, there are approachable options like tempura shrimp and avocado rolls, teriyaki beef, pork katsu and more. Shiki’s menu hasn’t changed much over the years, but why would it, as the restaurant helps fill a void in a city that has very few sushi-focused restaurants. Next time you’re in the mood for high quality sushi, give this family owned and operated restaurant a try.

Slightly North of Broad

Sorelle

Southbound

NEW SOUTHERN

ITALIAN

LIVE-FIRE COOKING

Expensive

Expensive

Expensive

Downtown. 192 East Bay St. (843) 723-3424

Downtown, 88 Broad St. (843) 974-1575

Downtown, 72 Cannon St. (843) 823-0212

snobcharleston.com

Sorellecharleston.com

Southboundchs.com

Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily),

Serving dinner (Mon.-Sun.)

Weekend Brunch

Slightly North of Broad is the perfect place to take visiting friends for their first taste of Charleston cuisine, for it embodies so much of what makes the city’s dining scene special. Since taking the reins in 2016, executive chef Russ Moore has deftly balanced the restaurant’s traditional dishes with more forward-looking fare. Pristinely fresh seafood gets an elegant Southern touch on plates like New Bedford scallops with tomato ham hock broth or seared tuna topped with crisp fried oysters and tart yellow “mustard Q” sauce. SNOB was a local charcuterie pioneer and a platter of hearty country pate, savory pork rillettes and lush chicken liver mousse is the perfect evening starter.

If you consider yourself a foodie, then chances are you’ve heard of Sorelle, one of the hottest and most talked about restaurants of the year so far. It’s a partnership between chefs Adam Sobel and Nick Dugan, bringing their take on classic southern Italian cuisine to the South. Everything on the menu is “a banger,” said one diner who managed to get in. A great combo, he salivated, would be to order the pane (bread) with fougasse, roasted garlic and olive oil, the cavatelli al tartufo (a mushroom pasta) with ricotta dumplings and truffle parmesan, and the pasta-baked branzino for a dinner to die for. Note: While it’s hard to get a dinner reservation here, it’s attached store (mercado) is open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. for a quick bite.

Serving dinner, (Mon.-Sun)

Live-fire cooking takes center stage at this new Cannon Street restaurant from the same folks behind Mount Pleasant’s Community Table and BarPizza, formerly Kiki & Rye. The elegant two-story dining room is located inside a historic home, which features a large wood-fire grill on the first floor. The menu, which changes daily and is posted to Facebook and Instagram each day by 3 p.m., makes great use of the grill with items such as dry-aged steak tartare with smoked egg, grilled toast and miso butter, coal-roasted Spanish octopus and grilled bone marrow with fried oysters.

Examples of heartier entrees include an Australian lamb chop, crispy Orvia duck and housemade cavatelli with braised rabbit sugo. continued on page 40

WITH A VIEW OYSTERS Charleston’s Home of the Oyster Roast

Now Serving Steamed, Local Oysters TUE - SAT, 11A.M. - 9:30P.M. 1870 BOWENS ISLAND ROAD BOWENSISLAND.COM

charlestoncitypaper.com || 39

OFOPR LEUNNCH

Top 50 Top 50 from page 39

Stella’s GREEK

Moderate Downtown. 114 St. Philip St. (843) 400-0026 stellascharleston.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Fiesta Bowl

OD O H R O B NEIGH

S E V FA

It’s hard to say what’s most striking about Stella’s on St. Philip Street. Is it the hip, yet boisterous vibe? The large portions at an incredibly reasonable price point?

Or the vast, authentic and consistently delicious menu? Regardless of your ultimate conclusion, this is a trifecta worth a visit… or five. The grilled octopus and spanakopita are simple perfection, while the saganaki is a visual showstopper and an excuse to pig out on cheese. Stella’s own recipes — namely her calamari and braised lamb shank with No. 5 noodles and brown butter shank sauce, are at once comforting and elevated, testimony to the woman who inspired it all.

Sushi-Wa SUSHI

Expensive Downtown. 1503 King St. Extension.

(843) 735-8633 Sushiwacharleston.com Serving dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

Boss Hog

If you’re looking for an intimate date night with your significant other and a rare experience in the Southeast, head to Sushi Wa. This restaurant brings the traditional Japanese omakase dining experience to the Lowcountry, with chefs and owners Kazu Murakami and Chris Schoedler taking your taste buds on a culinary journey. The chefs curate what you eat during a special multi-course meal with decisions based on something pre-determined by the chef. Book a night out on Resy, or if you’re lucky by following on Instagram, you might be able to snag a last-minute spot.

The James American Grill AMERICAN FARE

Moderate to expensive

40 || DISH || Winter 2024

James Island. 1939A Maybank Hwy. (843) 278-1066 Thejameschs.com Serving Lunch (Wed.-Sun.) and Dinner (all week)

828 Savannah Hwy. | 843-377-1300 | trianglecharandbar.com

A relatively new location for fine dining on James Island, The James American Grill blends the feel of a neighborhood joint with comfortable elegance. It offers lots of nice touches — sumptuous Parker

House rolls, tasty lump crab cakes with flair and fresh fish that soothes and nourishes. If you want an extra special treat, start with the creamy, rich mushroom soup with a hint of sherry that is topped by flaky pastry. Also enjoy the cozy bar and its satisfying drinks, including a rockin’ martini.

Vern’s NEW AMERICAN

Expensive Downtown. 41 Bogard St. vernschs.com Serving dinner (Thurs.-Mon.), weekend brunch

Tucked on the corner of Bogard and Ashe streets, Vern’s is the definition of a friendly neighborhood dining spot. And boy, is it popular. This New American restaurant offers family-style meals, which allow everyone at a table to enjoy dishes like gnochetti sardi, a rich and creamy gnocchi dish with arugula and walnut pesto, or the bavette steak with a sweet-tart balsamic glaze. If you get the chance to stop by for weekend brunch, don’t miss the sesame seed pancakes that embrace slices of local fruit and whipped ricotta for a delicate balance of sweet, creamy and nutty flavors. This, however, is a dish you might not want to share.

Wild Common MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Downtown. 103 Spring St. WildCommonCharleston.com Serving dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

The experience at Wild Common is different every time. Executive Chef Orlando Pagán changes the menu daily for a one-of-a-kind dinner. Some items on the menu may start with crab rice with kimchi or a baked oyster for some funk. And if you’re feeling fancy AND funky, throw in a caviar course to liven up the night. Other past menu items include the delightfully pink Unicorn grits from Marsh Hen Mill with yeasted cultured butter or a robust duck breast with mushroom quiche. For dessert, expect something playful like the chef’s elevated take on a Fig Newton or the chocolate and blood orange terrine with a citrus marmalade, hazelnut and dark chocolate. No two experiences are ever the same. How cool.

continued on page 42

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Oysters on the Half-Shell, Ceviche, Peel & Eat Shrimp, and Fresh Catch Smoked Fish Dip

Top 50

Rūta Smith file photo

Zero Restaurant’s chef Vinson Petrillo’s foie gras is a delightful delicacy

Top 50 from page 40

permeates everything on the plate.

Wild Olive

Zero Restaurant + Bar

ITALIAN

MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive

Very expensive

Johns Island. 2867 Maybank Hwy. (843) 737-4177

Downtown. 0 George St. (843) 817-7900

wildoliverestaurant.com

zerogeorge.com

42 || DISH || Winter 2024

Serving Dinner (daily)

NEXT ISSUE ON STANDS APRIL 26

To advertise call Charleston City Paper at 843-577-5304 or e-mail sales@charlestoncitypaper.com

Right off Maybank Highway sits Wild Olive, chef Jacques Larson’s haven for exquisite Italian fare. Since 2009, it has served as the go-to place for anniversary dinners and reunions with old friends.

A comfortable bar greets those looking for a casual bite, but don’t let that relaxed atmosphere deceive you. Larson’s food is anything but. Incredible (and decadent) risotto fritters stuffed with sausage, spinach, Parmesan and mozzarella are a great way to start. And always ask about the specials, of which there are plenty.

A past highlight was a pappardelle with prosciutto, pork and escarole. Larson is a firm believer in local and his conviction

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

On the grounds of the elegant Zero George Street Boutique Hotel, Zero Restaurant + Bar’s romantic dining room is set in a former carriage house built in 1804. Here, chef Vinson Petrillo whips up innovative tasting menus with the option of four or seven courses, plus optional wine pairings. Selections vary with the seasons, but anticipate such treats as lightly grilled mackerel served with foie gras and local citrus, or venison prepared with vadouvan curry and taleggio cheese.

Hit up happy hour for a craft cocktail; whether wielding a lead pipe or the candlestick, the bourbon-based Colonel Mustard is sure to pack a punch.

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Paul Stoney, president and CEO of the YMCA of Greater Charleston, supports the Charleston City Paper’s community journalism initiatives.

Photo by Ruta Smith.

Invest in local journalism Charleston leader Paul Stoney believes in the importance of having strong independent voices in journalism to challenge the status quo, strengthen democratic institutions and spread news that connects people to their communities.

“Independent newspapers like the Charleston City Paper prove they are committed to building inclusive, dynamic communities by publishing stories like those in this magazine that outline the historic importance 44 || DISH || Winter 2024

of the new International African American Museum. Support South Carolina’s independent journalists with a gift today.”

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DISH ADVERTISING DIRECTORY AIRAVATA VAPORS 1200 Queensborough Blvd., Mount Pleasant 1580 Old Trolley Road, Summerville airavata-vapors.business.site

LEWIS BARBECUE 464 N. Nassau St., Downtown lewisbarbecue.com

ALVIN ORD’S SANDWICH SHOP 2875 Ashley River Road, West Ashley 1291 Folly Road #119, James Island alvinordschs.com

LOCALS SUSHI 1150 Queensborough Blvd., Mount Pleasant 1680 Olde Towne Road, West Ashley 798 Folly Road Suite A, James Island localssushi.com

ANNIE O’LOVE’S CAFE OF SWEET ABUNDANCE 1901 Ashley River Road, Charleston annieolovegranola.com

MERCANTILE & MASH 701 E. Bay St., Charleston mercandmash.com

BAR VAUTÉ 1 Broad St., Floor B • brasserielabanque.com BOWENS ISLAND RESTAURANT 1870 Bowens Island Road, Charleston bowensisland.com BURRIS LIQUOR STORE 418 Meeting St., Charleston burrisliquors.com

MEX 1 COASTAL CANTINA 817 St. Andrews Blvd., West Ashley 2205 Middle St., Sullivan’s Island 1109 Park W. Blvd, Mount Pleasant mex1coastalcantina.com MS. ROSE’S FINE FOOD & COCKTAILS 1090 Sam Rittenberg Blvd., Charleston msroses.com

CAROLINA COOKER carolinacooker.com

NORTHBRIDGE DENTAL 1164 Northbridge Drive, Suite A, Charleston northbridgedentist.com

CHARLESTON OYSTER HOUSE 35 S. Market St., Charleston oysterhouse.menu

O-KU 463 King St., Charleston o-kusushi.com

D’ALLESANDRO’S PIZZA 229 St. Philip St., Downtown 414 Nexton Square Drive, Summerville dalspizza.com

O’NEILL PLASTIC SURGERY 245 Seven Farms Drive, Charleston oneillplasticsurgery.com

EARLY BIRD DINER 1644 Savannah Hwy., Charleston earlybirddiner.com EAST BAY DELI 1120 Oakland Market Road, Mount Pleasant 334 E. Bay St. Suite H, Downtown 405 Dorchester Road, North Charleston 858 Savannah Hwy., West Ashley 9135 University Blvd., North Charleston 2519 N. Main St. Suite B, Summerville eastbaydeli.com GABRIELLE AT HOTEL BENNETT 404 King St., Downtown gabrielledining.com GARY A. LING ATTORNEY 2971 W. Montague Ave., North Charleston charlestonattorneygaryaling.com GENE’S HAUFBRAU 817 Savannah Hwy., Charleston facebook.com/genescharleston GUILTY PLEASURES 2992 Ashley Phosphate Road, North Charleston • guiltypleasuressc.com HOLEY CITY BAGELS 43 Cannon St., Charleston holeycitybagels.com

ISLANDER 71 FISH HOUSE & DECK BAR 80 41st Ave., Isle of Palms islander71.com LEGEND DELI 41-A George St., Charleston legenddeli.com

RANCHO LEWIS 1503 King St., Downtown rancholewischs.com RAUL’S MAYA DEL SOL KITCHEN 1813 Reynolds Ave., Suite B, North Charleston raulsmayadelsol.com RED’S ICE HOUSE 98 Church Street, Mount Pleasant redsicehouse.com RICK’S LIGHTING 1027 St. Andrews Blvd., Charleston rickslighting.com SANTI’S 1302 Meeting Street Road, Charleston 1471 Ben Sawyer Blvd., Mount Pleasant Coming Soon! 1660 Savannah Hwy., West Ashley santisrestaurante.com SHANA SWAIN REAL ESTATE shanaswainrealtor.com SUNRISE BISTRO 1039 Johnnie Dodds Ave., Mount Pleasant 1797 Main Road, Johns Island 110 Miles Jamison, Summerville

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HOLY CITY BREWING & EMPIRE OYSTER AT HOLY CITY 1021 Aragon Ave., North Charleston holycitybrewing.com

PEARLZ OYSTER BAR 153 East Bay St., Downtown 9 Magnolia Road, West Ashley pearlzoysterbar.com

ESSAY

FROM FIG TO SOMETHING NEW Chef Jason Stanhope changes to stay the same

46 || DISH || Winter 2024

By Jason Stanhope At 25, everything I owned fit in a decrepit Land Rover with one windshield wiper and windows that were eternally open. I slept on a couch for three months. Change was easy. I was great at closure. The consequences were insignificant. Sixteen years later, I found myself walking out of FIG after my last service into the unknown. Life looks a little different. I spent the past decade and a half creating a life on James Island with my brilliant wife for my two feral boys. I was leaving a kitchen that I grew up in, a team that inspired me every day and a platform that empowered me to cook for my favorite city in the world.

The nervous excitement of a new path wasn’t strong enough to drown out the sheer terror of uncertainty. Could I cook outside of that kitchen? Would my body hold up? Is this a good decision for my family? FIG is 20 years old. Am I organized enough to build systems from the ground up? My mentor and my wife both assured me that I was capable of creating something great. I spent over a quarter of my life in the same kitchen. Understanding the nuances there brought me peace of mind. I knew where everything lived and how to finesse every corner to maximum efficiency.

When I started talking with the team at Method Co., I told them I was happy with my situation. This was true, but I also yearned for more. I had no shortage of prospective partners over the years. I dreamt up amazing concepts with great people.

Change was hard, and moving on from my comfort zone was difficult. I couldn’t load up the Land Rover and ramble on any-

Matthew Williams

more. It was during a pizza and Champagne party in my backyard when I realized that it was time to take the leap. The old adage proved to be true: I have to change to stay the same.

As cooks we can work anywhere, anytime. It’s probably too easy to change. I chose to spend 10 years at one restaurant, instead of one year at 10. My original plan went a little long. I love this industry, and I wanted to learn more than cooking. Mike Lata and Adam Nemirow are genuine. They live their brand, always put their team first and never stop practicing the art of hospitality. I was at the front of their classroom taking notes. I learned those infal-

lible systems and adopted them as my own. We were blessed with great accolades and worked tirelessly to give every guest a memorable experience. There were plenty of failures along the way, but we were relentless. The real reason I left the nest is simple.

It was time. I’m grateful that I was strong enough to embrace change and chase my dreams. I’m lucky to be surrounded by people that I admire. I’m still terrified but know that we are capable of creating magic on King and George.

Jason Stanhope is the executive chef at Lowland Tavern and The Quinte.

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Mon-Wed 10am-10pm | Thu-Sat 10am-11pm | Sun 10am-9pm | 1200 Queensborough Boulevard, Mount Pleasant | (843) 352-2746 | 1580 Old Trolley Road, Summerville | (843) 771-3222

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