Charleston City Paper - Dish Dining Guide, Summer 2022

a Charleston City Paper publication

Summer 2022 || Free

The

LOWCOUNTRY is our COUNTRY

@re dsic e h ou se

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Historic Shem Creek | 98 Church St. Mt. P | 843.388.0003 | r e d s i c e h o u s e . c o m |

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The blackened triggerfish at The Refuge Editor and Publisher: Andy Brack

editorial Digital and News Editor: Samantha Connors Contributing Editors: Herb Frazier, Chelsea Grinstead, Michael Pham, Michael Smallwood Contributors: Stephanie Barna, Susan Cohen, Suzanne Cohen, Katherine Connor, Elise DeVoe, Eric Doksa, Robert Donovan, Kinsey Gidick, Allston McCrady, Robert F. Moss, Melissa Tunstall, Vanessa Wolf, Mary Scott Hardaway, Sam Spence

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design Art Director: Scott Suchy Production Director: Déla O’Callaghan Graphic Designer: Christina Bailey Staff Photographer: Rūta Smith Additional Photography: Ashley Rose Stanol Rūta Smith

The sweltering heat of summer is here, but that won’t stop the people of Charleston from getting out and about. From salads to seafood to ice cream, this summer’s Dish, Charleston City Paper’s quarterly dining guide, highlights plenty of places for you to stop and taste it all. Round out that weekly beach trip with our list of Seaside Stops, take a trip to Shem Creek and dine at some of the area’s oldest

restaurants or dive into the story of Life Raft Treats, the local ice cream company that’s taken the city — and country — by storm with its Not Fried Chicken. Of course, the Top 50 is back to help you explore the scope of what the city has to offer.

Enjoy this summer’s edition in your home or at the beach, and remember to stay cool, readers.

—Michael Pham

inside (p6)

(p810)

(p16)

Seaside stops

Sweet disposition

A look into some of Mount Pleasant’s oldest go-to restaurants

It’s more than just lettuce at these five Charleston establishments

Island restaurants to help round out your day at the beach

Inside the “weird” and whimsical world of Life Raft Treats

Shrimpin’ on Shem

Five summer salads

(p24)

The Dish Top 50 Our top restaurants in Charleston for Fall 2021

(p48)

Charleston’s Favorites Tried and true Holy City eateries

(p20)

(p50)

Inspiration everywhere How Lesley Carroll finds meaning in the dishes created at Jack of Cups

distribution Circulation Team: Chris Glenn, Robert Hogg, Stephen Jenkins, David Lampley, John Melnick, Tashana Remsburg, Tony Rhone Published by City Paper Publishing, LLC Members: J. Edward Bell • Andrew C. Brack

on the cover The seared tuna app at High Thyme, photographed

by Rūta Smith.

Dish is a publication of the Charleston City Paper and is published quarterly

by City Paper Publishing, LLC. All content is copyrighted and the property of City Paper Publishing, LLC. Charleston City Paper P.O. Box 21942 Charleston, SC 29413 (843) 577-5304 charlestoncitypaper.com

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Photos by Rūta Smith

A look into some of Mount Pleasant’s oldest go-to restaurants

By Michael Pham

W

hether for a vacation or staycation, Shem Creek has it all — cold drinks, fresh food and a waterfront view. It’s undergone several changes throughout its decades-long history as a formal shrimping environment, but remains a place for locals and tourists to gather and enjoy some of Mount Pleasant’s freshest seafood.

There are plenty of places to eat and drink, but if there’s one thing each restaurant has in common, it’s the mascot of Shem Creek: shrimp.

Captain Wayne C. Magwood is credited with introducing shrimping to Shem Creek in 1930. A bridge was built over Shem Creek in 1937, granting even more access to the area. Over the next two decades, companies like Moultrie Fisheries and Mount Pleasant Seafood Company opened, making the area an important hub for Charleston’s shrimp industry.

Today, Shem Creek is home to some of the area’s oldest establishments, like Red’s Ice House, The Wreck of the Richard and Charlene, Vickery’s Bar & Grill and Shem Creek Crab House.

These Shem Creek staples withstood the test of time, weather and even a pandemic, but continue to thrive with the resurgence of vacationers and local patrons flocking to the area.

Enjoy fresh seafood from Red’s Ice House with a view of the water

Red’s Ice House

Though shrimp has been and always will be a mainstay for restaurants on Shem Creek, Red’s Ice House owner Dianne Crowley noticed a new food trend popular with younger generations. continued on page 8

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Shem

You get away on vacation and you just sort of let go a little bit more.”

The same can be said of locals who go to Shem Creek, too. (Order the fried shrimp; don’t worry, we don’t tell.)

from page 6

“A couple of the things that I’ve noticed are a fresher take on things in the last five or seven years,” Crowley said. “Poké being one of them. Obviously, there’s not a lot of poké coming from our waters. But more fresh [items], like ceviche or fresh fish in nachos.”

Being ahead of the trend, though, Red’s has offered Saku Tuna on its menu since day one, a blackened, rare seared tuna served with cucumber salad and sweet and spicy soy mustard.

Red’s also offers more traditional fish shack menu items like fried or grilled shrimp, fish, scallops and oysters. Crab leg clusters have also been a longtime favorite of Red’s regulars and visitors.

But, fresh seafood and new cuisine trends are showing up at more places than just Red’s. Tavern & Table, also owned by the Crowley’s, is an upscale seafood restaurant on the waterfront next door to Red’s with menu items curated for those who are looking for less fried dishes and more fresh offerings.

In place of fried shrimp, Tavern & Table offers items like oysters on the half shell, peel-and-eat shrimp, charcuterie boards, flatbreads and more — things you won’t find just over the railing at Red’s.

But if there’s one thing Crowley’s sure of, it’s that shrimp will always remain at the top of Shem Creek’s food pyramid no matter what form.

“I think that Shem Creek will always be known for fried shrimp,” Crowley said.

“These waters provide very good shrimp.

I think most of us use local shrimp with peel-and-eats because of the authentic taste. It’s about as unfiltered as it gets.”

Originally, Red’s building and dock was owned by Lewis Hughes “Red” Simmons and his family from the 1950s to 1990s, providing shrimpers with a place to pack and ice for when they set off into the waters. In the late ’90s, when Simmons was ready to retire, he sold the property, and the new owners dubbed the restaurant Red’s Ice House after the late Simmons.

Now, instead of shrimpers stopping by Red’s for ice, tourists and locals alike head to the lively restaurant’s dock for an ice cold drink on the water and a glimmer of hope that they might spot a dolphin.

Shem Creek Crab House

Shem Creek Crab House, formerly known as Shem Creek Bar and Grill, was purchased two years ago by current owner John Keener and is considered

Vickery’s Bar & Grill

Owner Ann Warner (right) and crew serve up “rustic” seafood platters (above) at The Wreck of the Richard and Charlene one of the longest-running establishments on Shem Creek.

Though classified as a “crab house” by name, the restaurant offers plenty of seafood options.

Families or groups of friends can split the Crab House’s steam pots of Alaskan crab, dungeness crab and, of course, shrimp. All the hot pots, and the Lowcountry boil, are cooked with corn and potatoes, and covered in garlic butter and Old Bay seasoning.

If you’re looking for a triple threat of seafood, the Crab House offers its Crab House Crab Pot, with both types of crab and shrimp all in one boil.

But if you’re there alone, with a date or looking for something less filling, Crab House has other options, too. Indulge in appetizers like crab dip or peel-and-eat shrimp, or try an entree specialty like a grilled seafood trio of redfish, scallops and shrimp served with Charleston red rice and seasonal vegetables.

The Crab House also offers a “You

Photos by Rūta Smith

Hook It, We Cook It” option. Patrons can bring in cleaned, fresh catches and the restaurant will cook and prepare it. No need to take it home or to the Airbnb and dirty up the kitchen.

And for the fried seafood lovers, there are plenty of options to try.

“There’s a lot of people on vacation that come down and say, ‘Hey, we’re on vacation. We don’t care. We’re going to eat what we like to eat: eat fried food, eat ice cream and drink piña coladas,’ ” Keener said.

“We’re sort of all this way, you know?

Vickery’s wasn’t always a part of Shem Creek, but it definitely found its place, especially as the crowds continue to grow.

Originally located at 15 Beaufain St. in 1992, Vickery’s opened the doors to its second (and current) location at 1313 Shrimp Boat Lane in 1999.

Vickery’s initial menu originated from its flagship location in Atlanta, offering a Caribbean and Cuban-inspired menu, but when owner Jim Stalker and his business partner at the time Sam Weyman wanted to open a location in Charleston, adding more shrimp to the menu was a no-brainer.

The food has since strayed away from the taste of the islands to a taste of the Atlantic coast, offering more seafood-centric options like its oyster bisque or Lowcountry saute with tail-on shrimp, crab and crawfish tails cooked in bourbon butter. Its Caribbean and Cuban flair is still reminiscent on the menu, though, with grilled jerk chicken salad and classic Cuban sandwich. And of course, if you’re not into seafood but happen to find yourself in Shem Creek, Vickery’s is the place to “get a stiff drink and a good burger,” Stalker said.

Though the Vickery’s downtown closed in 2010, Vickery’s on Shem Creek has remained open for more than 20 years and continued to keep its “open for all” attitude. When the first Vickery’s opened downtown, it became the place for everyone, where you might see “a $500 Brooks Brothers suit talking stocks to this kid that had purple hair,” said Stalker.

“That’s what we wanted to bring to Charleston — a great time,” he added.

“And we did.”

When they opened a Vickery’s on Shem Creek, Stalker knew the one thing to keep business good and the surrounding neighbors happy: blend in.

“If you’re gonna have a restaurant or business or something, at least try and blend in,” he said. “You don’t want to be the guy that stands out.”

If you’re looking to be more on than water than overlooking it (Vickery’s sits atop on the second floor of a building), underneath the eatery is Muddy’s Dockside Bar.

Muddy’s sits right on the water and offers a slice of Key West along the edge of Shem Creek.

The Wreck of the Richard and Charlene

Dedicated fans of The Wreck don’t mind waiting in line to eat at the 30-year-old shrimp shack, serving up fresh-caught seafood by the platters. One thing to note: the food will be delicious, but it will be messy.

“We’re very rustic,” said owner Ann Warner. “We serve on paper plates. That’s appealing to some, but not all. It’s always been more of a place that you just really have to seek out.”

The establishment has been in its current location since opening in 1992 at the end of the creek, but hasn’t seen much change in the area the same way buildings up the creek have experienced.

Along the edge of the water near The Wreck, shrimp trawlers and charter boats dock for the night. Another dock overlooking the water was recently built for the public, Warner said, but other than that, the area is pretty much the same as the day it opened.

“Well, one thing is where we are, it hasn’t changed that much,” Warner said.

“Because we are down at the end, you know, amongst the shrimpers. It’s been here about 30 years, and it really has not changed much at all.”

First opened by Fred Scott in 1991, The Wreck is now owned and operated

by Warner and her sister Allison Cagle and brother-in-law Hank Cagle, who took over the space in 2016.

Since purchasing the restaurant, Warner has only wanted to maintain what Scott established — a simple shrimp shack for the locals of Shem Creek.

But its appearance on Netflix’s popular show Outer Banks, the restaurant gained a wider audience. The show’s success during the Covid-19 pandemic helped bring people from all over the country once travel started picking back up, according to Warner. Some of the regulars were still reluctant to come out she said, but tourists were eager to see the restaurant they had seen on their TVs. “And that’s also why there is no advertising, so the people that find us are happy to find us,” Warner said.

More than just shrimp

These establishments have become pillars in this area of Mount Pleasant, and for good reason. Not only do they cater to the tourists wanting to grab an ice cold drink on the water, but they care for the residents who live and work nearby.

“To me it feels wonderful to be a part of the local industry,” Warner said. “I love food and restaurants, and the idea of farm-to-table is always the best. And we

“I think most of us use local shrimp with peel-and-eats because of the authentic taste.

It’s about as unfiltered as it gets.”

—Red’s Ice House owner Dianne Crowley

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But Shem Creek has grown into something bigger than just a shrimping community; it’s become a gathering place for people to connect, eat and drink while hanging out by the water.

“It’s a tiny, tiny little creek now compared to what it used to be,” Stalker said.

“Of course, the water hadn’t changed.

It’s just the people who use it and what it’s being used for. There must be 1,000 kayaks and paddle boards on the creek from time to time.”

“It’s changed from a fishing village into a drinking village,” said Keener. “There’s still some of the industry, but it’s just not as vibrant as it used to be … I don’t look at it as a negative at all, either.

“I think it’s just going to get better.”

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Commercial fishing is less common up near the bridge where places like Red’s and Vickery’s sit. Many of the old buildings used by shrimpers and fishermen have since been converted into restaurants and hotels, but near The Wreck, shrimperowned buildings still operate. Right next door, Wando Shrimp supplies its shrimp to The Wreck.

The decades-old restaurant is surrounded by what Shem Creek used to be, and still is — a shrimping community.

“I feel like this is an institution and it’s part of the history at this point, having been here 30 years,” Warner said. “It’s nice for people that have grown up here or been coming here forever to see what this part of Shem Creek has always looked like, for the most part.”

Summer Series

Wednesday -Sunday @ Muddy’s

10 || DISH || Summer 2022

It’s more than just lettuce at these five Charleston establishments

By Elise DeVoe The summer heat in Charleston can be brutal, but at least it brings delicious seasonal produce with it. Enjoying sweet melons, peaches, corn, juicy tomatoes and more in peak season is worth leaving the comfort of the air conditioning and venturing out into the world. Summer salads allow these staples of the season to shine, and these five Charleston restaurants are making summer produce the star of the plate.

babas on cannon

When husband and wife team Edward Crouse and Marie Stitt conceptualized the menu for babas on cannon, they drew inspiration from family recipes. Before they were married, Crouse attended one of Stitt’s family reunions, and her mother’s pickled shrimp was a favorite of the gathering. At the party, the shrimp was served with crackers, but Crouse and Stitt wanted to serve their own take on it.

“I never have it in a salad necessarily, continued on page 12

babas on cannon and meeting bring a family’s pickled shrimp to the Lowcountry

Photos by Rūta Smith

The Daily’s salad may be summerish, but refreshing for the summer heat nonetheless

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Salads

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from page 10

but I think when we thought through the fare we wanted to offer at babas, we wanted it to be clean and fresh, but still filling,” Crouse said.

While the recipe for the pickled shrimp came from Stitt’s mother, Frances, the concept of the dish was also inspired by Stitt’s father, Frank. Frank Stitt is a restaurateur in Birmingham, Ala., and serves shrimp louie at a few of his restaurants, which features a large pile of shrimp, whole avocado and beautifully dressed greens.

The pickled shrimp salad at babas combines both of these inspirations and features local shrimp from Tarvin Seafood, half an avocado, greens from Limehouse produce, fresh parsley, shallots and the dressing is a mix of the shrimp pickling Lindsay Shorter liquid and champagne vinaigrette.

“The season for shrimp started about Frannie & the Fox incorporate a month ago, so everyone associates this Italian cuisine with Lowcountry salad with summer,” Crouse added. ingredients

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The “Summer-ish” salad at The Daily proves that salads don’t have to be boring, and can even be a little indulgent.

Executive chef and kitchen manager Mark Fivecoat wanted to step outside of the typical salad and vinaigrette combination and brought something fresh to the table for summer.

The “Summer-ish” salad features lettuce from Vertical Roots, Cherokee heirloom tomatoes, roasted rainbow carrots seasoned with aleppo pepper, sumac-chive yogurt dressing, za'atar pita crumble, benne seeds and The Daily’s signature whipped feta.

“The inspiration for me was growing up and being Italian. I have a big love for cheese and feta is one of my favorites,” Fivecoat said.

The combination of the whipped feta and sumac-chive yogurt already brings a richer flavor than the average vinaigrette, but Fivecoat adds in lemon and sherry vinegar to keep the flavors vibrant.

Instead of serving the salad with large pita chips to imitate croutons, Fivecoat prefers to pulverize the chips to get a little crunch in every bite. The juicy heirloom tomatoes scream summer, but the salad is called “Summer-ish” because of the difficulties with sourcing certain ingredients with ongoing supply chain issues. Adding the “ish” leaves room for flexibility in ingredients, but the balance of flavors in this hearty salad will remain.

Frannie & the Fox

The dishes at Frannie & the Fox are inspired by the cuisine of Italy, but incorporate ingredients from the Lowcountry.

When executive chef Tim Morton was adding a seasonal item to the menu, panzanella salad was the perfect vehicle to incorporate summer produce.

Frannie & the Fox’s take on a panzanella salad is a rustic mix of toasted homemade bread, basil, tomatoes and Georgia peaches. The peaches are charred in a wood-fired oven prior to being added to the salad for an extra depth of flavor, and a portion of it is reserved to be used as the sweetener in the balsamic vinaigrette.

The remainder of the peaches are chopped in larger pieces to match the size of the bread, which is made in house using a Roman style dough. The same dough is used to make the house bread at the restaurant, and the leftovers are used to make the salad, which is how the salad is traditionally made in Italy. The rough chop of ingredients is also traditional, and for good reason.

“You only get two to three components per bite, so as you’re eating through the salad you’ll have three to four different experiences,” Morton said.

If a bread salad sounds like a salad you can get down with, head to Frannie & the Fox before peach season is over, or you will have to wait until next summer.

“Seasonal menus are usually unique every continued on page 14

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14 || DISH || Summer 2022

Salads

local pickled veggies, fresh herbs, roasted mushrooms and a spicy tangy sauce.

from page 12

season, but I think the panzanella will come back every summer,” Morton added.

Church and Union

Huriyali

Visiting the back patio at Huriyali is like stepping into a tropical oasis, and the menu items match the summer vibes.

Owners Tom and Ruchi McFall ensure that the menu is packed with veggie-centric dishes that are light enough to enjoy in the Charleston heat, but satisfying enough to keep you fueled for the rest of the day. The cafe’s signature salad is the Goddess Salad, which packs your daily serving of vegetables along with a punch of flavor from the dressing.

“We are always looking for ways to add extra umami to replace the richness of meat while keeping the dish healthy,” said Tom McFall. “We accomplish that goal by mixing things like gluten free tamari, tahini, aromatics and quality organic olive oil.”

The salad keeps you interested with a variety of textures, from the crunchy shredded beets and carrots to the juicy tomatoes and soft bed of pumpkin seed

Enjoy the Goddess Salad in Huriyali’s tropical back patio pesto rice at the bottom. To bulk up the salad even more, the cafe offers a variety of protein add-ons that are vegan and carnivore friendly. To really kick up the flavor, try adding the curry cauliflower or chicken.

If you would rather enjoy your salad between two pieces of bread, check out the veggie banh mi. The sandwich features a sourdough baguette from Tiller Baking,

Typically a wedge salad is loaded with ranch dressing, bacon and bleu cheese, but Church and Union has a lighter take on this classic that is perfect for summer.

Instead of a chunk of iceberg lettuce, the New American restaurant utilizes little gem lettuce from Vertical Roots right here in Charleston.

The wedge salad has been a staple on the menu for so long because of the variety of textures and toppings.

Church and Union accomplishes this with crunchy toasted pumpkin seeds, tender braised red and gold beets, juicy grapefruit segments and crumbled cotija cheese, with a creamy, but light dressing.

“The salad dressing is a copycat of my favorite salad at my favorite Mexican restaurant from my hometown of Simi Valley, California,” said executive chef Alex Spencer. “It closed down a few years ago and it’s nice to have that taste of home while I’m at work.”

The dressing is a mix of cilantro, jalapenos, lime juice, red wine vinegar,

Photos by Rūta Smith

Church and Union gives a fresh take on the wedge salad pumpkin seeds, cotija cheese and a touch of mayonnaise for creaminess. To plate it, the little gem lettuce is simply cut in half, the toppings are scattered on top and the dressing is draped over the lettuce.

“It’s enjoyable in the summer because of the bright balance of flavor from all the toppings and the nice crisp crunch from the lettuce,” Spencer said.

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Seaside stops Island restaurants to help round out your day at the beach

By Samantha Connors Summer is the season of beach trips and fresh seafood, and some of our favorite beach restaurants know exactly how to tap into the seasonal selection. Local oysters and fish, sourced scallops and mussels and delicious finger foods and sandwiches are just some of the items that top our list of beach eats from Isle of Palms to Folly Beach.

Whether you’re looking for classy beachside dining before an evening walk along the shore or a quick place to grab a bite to eat and a frozen drink on your way to or from the beach, we’ve got you covered.

Isle of Palms The Refuge

1517 Palm Blvd. Suite A, Isle of Palms The Refuge offers fresh, local dishes with an emphasis on seafood in an upscale setting, making it the perfect place for a date night out near the beach. The dinner menu includes unique takes on classic dishes like BLT deviled eggs, crab au gratin dip and lobster mac and cheese. For entrees, the restaurant offers seafood and meat dishes including locally caught blackened triggerfish with broccolini and dirty rice, seared scallops with corn and black bean salsa, haricots vert, orzo and parmesan crisps and a bone-in grilled porkchop.

Stop by The Refuge for dine-in lunch or order one of its signature sandwiches to go like the blackened trig– continued on page 18

Stop at The Refuge on the way out of Isle of Palms for their pretzelcrusted Seared Scallops Rūta Smith

Tucked away on Charleston’s bustling upper King Street, The Cocktail Club is an upscale lounge dedicated to the art of the craft cocktail.

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18 || DISH || Summer 2022

Seaside

from page 16

gerfish sandwich, a chicken Caesar wrap or the Refuge burger with a secret house sauce. For brunch, the restaurant goes all out with classic dishes like breakfast sandwiches and omelets. They let their creativity shine with brunch items like bagel and lox pizza served on everything seasoned naan bread or the apple pie stuffed French toast.

Coda del Pesce

1130 Ocean Blvd., Isle of Palms A newcomer to the Isle of Palms, Coda del Pesce made a name for itself right away. Located beachside on Front Street, this seafood restaurant tries to incorporate local and sustainable seafood in every dish. Because of its focus on fresh, local ingredients, the menu often changes daily, making it a restaurant you’ll want to dine at over and over again. The menu is broken up like a traditional Italian menu into antipasti (appetizers), primi (firsts) and secondi (seconds). Italians know how to eat. Primis usually consist of soups, pastas or rice.

At Coda del Pesce, you’ll find unique pasta dishes that incorporate seafood and seasonal produce. Secondi entrees are typically heavier, meat or fish based dishes.

Coda del Pesce uses this section of the menu to highlight seafood like triggerfish, wreckfish or a meat dish like naturally raised veal scallopini. Though diners come for the delicious food, they definitely stay for the view, which overlooks the beach.

Whether you opt to sit out on the deck or inside with the floor-to-ceiling windows, you’ll be able to dine with a view.

Sullivan’s Island The Obstinate Daughter

E as tB

ay Deli. c o m

2063 Middle St., Sullivan’s Island Chef Jacques Larson of Wild Olive brought his talents to Sullivan’s Island when he opened The Obstinate Daughter on Middle Street in 2014. Today, it’s become a staple in the island’s fine dining scene.

The Obstinate Daughter serves Southern food with French, Spanish and Italian influences. The menu includes an array of pasta and wood fired pizza options along with fresh raw bar items like oysters on the half shell and seafood dishes like octopus and swordfish. The menu changes seasonally though some staple items like the shrimp roll, Old

Jonathan Boncek file photo

The Obistnate Daughter’s shrimp roll is a menu staple Danger pizza and traditional Southern Frogmore Chowder are available year-round.

The restaurant’s interior reflects the area’s nautical vibe while keeping the atmosphere upscale — walls are composed of restored wood, thick knotted ropes drape across the ceiling and light beachy colors decorate the sunny dining area. If you’re feeling brave enough to combat Charleston’s summer heat, you can opt for patio seating — don’t worry, the outdoor fans help.

Home Team BBQ

2209 Middle St., Sullivan’s Island A favorite establishment for locals and tourists alike, Home Team BBQ offers slow-smoked barbecue in a casual, fun environment. All of Home Team’s barbecue offerings are coated in its special dry rub, bringing out the smoky flavor of the meats: pork, chicken, turkey and jalapeno cheddar sausage. Barbecue lovers will gravitate towards the two- or threemeat combo platters and sandwiches filled with pulled pork or chicken or smoked brisket. But, don’t sleep on the Fiery Ron’s burger topped with house made bacon and served on a King’s Hawaiian bun.

Pair any of these dishes with traditional Southern sides like mac and cheese, collard greens or Brunswick stew and you’ve got yourself the perfect postbeach meal. If you’re looking for lighter options, try the tacos, salads or order the BBQ nachos as a snack. Trust us, you won’t be disappointed.

And, a stop at Home Team wouldn’t be complete without trying its signature frozen drink — the Game Changer, gold and spiced Caribbean rum mixed with OJ, pineapple juice, cream of coconut and

Johnson said the summer menu dropped July 14. Try something new and always interesting while dining on Jack of Cups’ back or front patio or inside at one of the quaint booths before walking just down the street to the beach.

seared tuna over dirty rice and Dijon coleslaw and PEI mussels cooked in a chili garlic coconut broth and served with sourdough bread — essential for soaking up that flavorful broth. Grilled yellowfin tuna, pan-fried crab and shrimp cake, spinach and herb risotto and grilled tenderloin are just a few stars of the entree menu. Enjoy outdoor dining on the front patio or seating inside the charming cottage-style building.

Jonathan Boncek

Home Team BBQ is an all-around favorite in the Charleston area

Rita’s Seaside Grill

Folly Beach Jack of Cups Saloon

34 Center St., Charleston Helmed by executive chef Lesley Carroll and co-owned by her husband Nick topped with fresh-grated nutmeg. But proceed with caution. It got that name for Carroll, Jack of Cups Saloon is known for unique cocktails and unusual food good reason. pairings. Though the eclectic, seasonally changing menu keeps locals and High Thyme Cuisine tourists coming back for more, some top 2213 Middle St. C, Sullivan’s Island contenders remain all year-long like the trio of curries that can be ordered over High Thyme Cuisine prides itself on nachos or rice or the ever-popular red offering fine dining dishes in a laid back curry mac and cheese. Recent standenvironment. You’ll find seafood dishes outs from Jack of Cups’ rotating food aplenty here with appetizers like rare

Rūta Smith

Start a hearty meal with its rare seared tuna appetizer at High Thyme Cuisine items include Cap’n Crunch deviled eggs, sweet chili Doritos wontons and pad thai gnocchi, but general manager Chris

2 Center St., Folly Beach Just steps away from Folly Beach’s waterfront, Rita’s Seaside Grill has long been a favorite of beachgoers looking for a beer and a quick bite to eat. From the outside, Rita’s looks like a quaint surf shack, but inside, pops of color and eclectic wall decor like surfboards and old bicycles decorate the interior and the spacious patio allows diners to enjoy the ocean breeze while sipping on a strawberrybasil mimosa or Rita’s rum runner.

The blackened Ahi tuna nachos (also available with pulled pork instead) are a must-order for appetizers, but oysters on the half shell, smoked chicken wings and peel-and-eat shrimp are other popular choices. Rita’s knows exactly what people need after a long day soaking up the sun, offering salads, sandwiches, tacos, barbecue dishes and more.

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charlestoncitypaper.com || 19

Featuring inventive tacos, hand crafted margaritas, and an upbeat atmosphere

20 || DISH || Summer 2022

Sweet disposition

Inside the “weird” and whimsical world of Life Raft Treats By Abby Tierney

I

f you’re a local with even one toe in the food scene, odds are you know the name Cynthia Wong. Perhaps you’ve marveled over a Not Fried Chicken drumstick after dinner at sustainable seafood joint Chubby Fish or City Paper’s Best New Restaurant 2022, Pink Bellies.

Maybe you’ve snagged a pastel-hued ice cream bar from the Life Raft Treats truck around town. Helmed by Wong, former Butcher & Bee pastry chef and six-time James Beard Award semifinalist, Life Raft has been delivering “weaponized mouth joy” to the Lowcountry since 2018. The last few years, however, have ushered in a new era for the business.

By 2020, Life Raft was primarily events-focused, distributing to various Charleston restaurants and hosting popups with the truck. When everything came to a halt that spring due to the pandemic, Wong found a surprising opportunity to take stock. “We were incredibly lucky that we were still operating out of a commissary kitchen, and my husband (co-founder Jon David Harmon) wasn’t working for the company full-time yet,” Wong said. “I could just kind of roll into a ball and take the blows.”

Emerging from that initial lockdown, Wong took advantage of a suddenlysparse calendar to reassess what Life Raft was all about. “Originally, we’d been doing a lot of scoops out of the truck, but I was never really excited about that,” she said.

“I’d always wanted to get into novelties, but it seemed people didn’t quite get it.”

The pandemic, it turned out, created the perfect moment — and a hungry audience — for Wong’s creative vision.

“We finally had the time to make these

Your eyes deceive when looking at Cynthia Wong’s creations

really interesting treats, and people responded,” she said. As Wong experimented with ingredients and textures, her double-take-worthy creations (like “ham sandwiches” on hyper-realistic brioche) were gaining traction. “We weren’t making things for Instagram, but they really took off there. Maybe because they were bright and captivating when times still felt pretty bad,” she added.

Wong was approached by Goldbelly that summer, the online marketplace for local, artisanal foods. Goldbelly’s cofounder had stumbled upon Not Fried Chicken and, stunned by the product, immediately got in touch. “When we

Jonathan Boncek

started talking, I didn’t think we had the capacity for something like this,” Wong said. “But I knew I wanted to find the capacity.” Come October 2020, the partnership was in full swing, and Life Raft continued on page 22

Rūta Smith

Jonathan Boncek

charlestoncitypaper.com || 21

TASTE THE SMOOTH

22 || DISH || Summer 2022

BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY EVERY DAY

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Sweet

from page 20

came to a nationwide audience, aided by additional distribution deals with Whole Foods and FreshDirect. After three years working from the SaltHouse Catering kitchen on James Island, one thing became clear: Wong needed more space.

In June 2021, Life Raft took over a portion of the former Paolo’s Gelato showroom in North Charleston, a 2,500-square-foot production space that the business quickly outgrew. Today, Life Raft claims more than half the warehouse, and employs a small but growing team of F&B veterans. All too familiar with the typical restaurant grind, Wong takes pride in creating a different kind of environment for her crew. “These are highly skilled, motivated people who truly love the work, but are just done with those settings,” she said. “We’re all tired of the F&B scene— endless hours, working the line.” It’s a refreshing shift with a four-day work week and high value on life outside of work; Courtesy and compassion are baked into the Life Raft ethos.

Even with the extra hands, churning out thousands of drumsticks each week is no simple feat. The team still works primarily by hand, though Wong admits this may not always be the case. “There are definitely days when we say to ourselves. We’ve got to get more automated than this,” she said with a laugh. “It’s a very specific process, and we haven’t found machinery that can imitate the motion of someone’s hand.”

While Not Fried Chicken production can feel like a well-oiled machine, Wong still finds time to play. Any one of her mind-boggling creations demands far more work than your average pint, but it’s worth it, she said. “I like a scoop as much as the next person, but I’d much rather eat a bar,” Wong added. “From the ice cream to the filling and shell, it feels like a little story, and I love telling stories with food.”

As far as what stories to tell, the pastry chef lets whimsy and nostalgia guide her, experimenting with molds and flavors that capture her imagination. The result?

“TV dinners,” where gravy-smothered mashed potatoes are really peanut butter ice cream with caramel sauce, or marshmallow- and pistachio-studded strawberry ice cream masquerade as sliced mortadella. “Desserts don’t have to be pretentious or annoying, with someone lifting a dome or blowing smoke in your face,” Wong said. “Some things are just fun.”

At Life Raft, visual splendor (and the occasional optical illusion) doesn’t come at the cost of quality. “No one in their

Jonathan Boncek

Life Raft Treats’ cake donuts are definitely not of the fried variety right mind would have food class as high as ours, but I refuse to give up on that,” she said. Life Raft uses grade-A milk from Lowcountry Creamery, as well as local, seasonal produce as available. “We try not to let form overtake function and flavor. If we’re using strawberries in something, it’s really going to taste like strawberry, even if it looks like ham.”

Some of Wong’s favorite projects have been commissions — the zanier, the better. This past spring, a Columbia couple contacted Life Raft about their vision for a nontraditional wedding cake.

“They wanted a giant sub sandwich, but couldn’t find a deli to take it on. When they asked if we could make it out of ice cream, I was like, ‘Say no more. When do you need me to be there?’” Wong said.

With Life Raft’s growing profile, the pastry chef feels she’s finally found her tribe. “The people who think what we’re doing is weird just don’t matter anymore,” she said. But those who want a multi-foot ice cream “sandwich” for their wedding? That’s another story.

“The weirder the request, the more likely I am to say yes,” Wong said. “If you’re really weird, we’ll get each other.”

Though locals may have heard rumblings of a Life Raft brick-and-mortar, Wong said she’s still waiting for the right moment to make that leap. For now, the team is staying the course, and growing to keep up with a national craving for Not Fried Chicken. Still, Charlestonians get first dibs on the coveted creations — just duck into Renzo for the novelty du jour, Pink Bellies for a Yuzu Taco or Not Fried Chicken or look out for the mint green ice cream truck.

On a steamy summer day, an ice cream treat is a life raft indeed.

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EVERY TUESDAY @4PM ALL YOU CAN EAT CRAB LEGS

24 || DISH || Summer 2022

The lobster tail at Bistronomy

by NICO Rūta Smith file photo

Our go-to restaurants for everything from decadent to down-home fare Whether you’re a visitor vacationing in the Holy City or a local looking for a meal, the choices can be overwhelming. Scrolling through Instagram, Twitter or even a simple “food in Charleston” Google search can yield inconsistent results.

Fortunately, we’ve narrowed down the list to the city’s Top 50, a notso-easy task. From upscale seafood and steakhouse dining to casual sandwich shops and cafes, it’s safe to say there’s no shortage of food choices in Charleston. But what sets these 50 restaurants apart isn’t the price or location, but each establishment’s dedication to providing a memorable dining experience through its food and service. This is the list to give family or friends visiting the city; the list to scan through when you’re undecided; the list with options for every budget; and the list that, like the Holy City, always changes.

Organized in alphabetical order.

167 Raw SEAFOOD

Moderate Downtown. 193 King St. (843) 579-4997 167raw.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

tuna burger. —Mary Scott Hardaway

babas on cannon, babas on meeting CAFE

Moderate Downtown. 11 Cannon St. (843) 284-6260 Downtown. 804 Meeting St. babasoncannon.com Serving Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

babas on cannon is one of those places that truly does everything well, even more impressive when you glance at its expansive daily menu. There’s strong espresso, baked goods, avocado toast, salads and sandwiches during the day followed by small bites and aperitifs later at night.

Nearly everything is house-made — from peanut milk to banana bread topped with flakey sea salt — and the ingredients are always local. Want to get in and out quickly? babas has its own app for easy online ordering. If you’re staying awhile, you’ll find it to be the type of place where the employees want to know your name and remember your order. babas’ ability to maintain that comfortable neighborhood vibe while keeping customers’ expectations front of mind is truly a work of art. With a welcoming space and the food to match, babas on cannon delivers on its promise of as a new-school old-world European cafe.

Check them out at the location on Meeting Street, sharing space with goat.sheep.cow. north —Parker Milner

GREAT COCKTAILS AND TASTY FOOD MENU

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charlestoncitypaper.com || 25

Surrounded by high-end boutiques, swanky inns, antique stores and art galleries, 167 Raw’s King Street home sits Basic Kitchen CAFE along a quiet stretch of storefronts. But Moderate fear not, they’re still boasting the same Downtown. 82 Wentworth St. lineup of New England bivalves and (843) 789-4568 lobstah rolls that were much-lauded at basickitchen.com its original (teeny) East Bay spot. The Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), first floor of the ever-so-charming 19th Weekend Brunch century building is long and narrow, with original brick walls and a walnut In a city filled with hearty Southern bar. Even with four times (at least) as cuisine, sometimes it’s tricky to find a flamuch seating as their original space, vorful, light meal. Not so at Basic Kitchen 167 Raw gets packed. Arrive early to tuck into your 10-hour carnita taco and continued on page 26

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26 || DISH || Summer 2022

Top 50 according to co-owner Ben Towill, that has been exactly the goal since opening the restaurant with his wife Kate in 2017.

“We want to provide massive flavor and a meal that’s hearty but still feels light.”

Since taking over as Basic Kitchen executive chef in July 2019, Robin Hollis has honed in on this mission by creating more wholesome dishes that highlight vegetables from local purveyors. BK’s lunch menu is divided into small plates, bowls, salads, sandwiches and sweets.

As for dinner selections, Towill says, “We wanted to narrow our focus by adding more classical entrees, and Nathan Wentworth has enhanced our wine program by making it all natural, biodynamic wines.” —Parker Milner

a two-story robin’s egg blue building with purple trim and a line stretching out the door. The Southern soul food platters here are so tasty, generous and inexpensive, that the line starts forming well before they open for lunch.

Businessmen, laborers and far-flung tourists alike shuffle through the quick cafeteria-style service counter loaded with a smorgasbord of meat and threes, such as fried pork chops, fish specials, yams, stewed greens, home-style macand-cheese, limas nestled with smoked turkey necks, dark roux okra soup, moist cornbread and fried chicken better than anyone’s Grandma ever made. The laid back atmosphere of the no-frills joint allows diners to fully experience the rich flavors of this down-home cooking.

—Allston McCrady

Bertha’s Kitchen

Bistronomy by Nico

Top 50

from page 25

SOUL FOOD

FRENCH

Inexpensive

Expensive

Downtown. 2332 Meeting Street Road.

Downtown. 64 Spring St. (843) 410-6221

(843) 554-6519

bistronomybynico.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Fri.)

Serving Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

Head up Meeting Street until you see

One month after getting the keys to

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64 Spring St., Bistronomy by Nico coowners Nico Romo and Dominique Chantepie opened the French bistro after revamping the space previously occupied by Josephine Wine Bar. Since opening in November 2020, Bistronomy has served playful plates like escargot rice dumplings, goat cheese spring rolls and lobster with candied ginger in a setting reminiscent of a Parisian bistro. The cuisine mirrors the vibrant atmosphere and draws on celebrated dishes from Romo’s 10 years at Fish, which closed in 2017 after 17 years on King Street. Romo calls Bistronomy’s menu approachable French cuisine with an Asian fusion twist. “There were a lot of dishes and food I was doing like the duck steam bun that I had,” Romo told the Charleston City Paper. “I had a big following then for that food, which I do not do at NICO, which is more flat classic French with an oyster bar.” Look for mussels and pomme frites, tuna crudo and a tomato and pankofried mozzarella salad in the small plates section, while the entrees consist of plates like lobster tail, Bouillabaisse and scallops with coconut rice, all under $40. If

you want to sample Romo’s fare in Mount Pleasant, his original bistro NICO sits right off of Shem Creek. —Parker Milner

Bowens Island Restaurant SEAFOOD

Moderate James Island. 1870 Bowens Island Road.

(843) 795-2757 bowensisland.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Don’t expect white tablecloth and maitre d’ service at Bowens Island. It’s famously no frills, but it’s worth it. The nightly crowds are a testament to the family fish camp. Since its founding in 1946 it’s grown from a grimy, albeit quaint, cinder block outpost to a pluff-mud pantheon that offers up damn good fried seafood, hushpuppies and cold local beer in its upstairs dining room. Follow your nose downstairs and elbow-out yourself a space at the all-you-can-eat oyster tables and slurp down tasty local oysters by the shovelful that were likely pulled off the marsh that day. Oyster season or continued on page 28

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Top 50 Top 50

from page 26

not, we have a hard time passing up the Frogmore Stew, a pot full of potatoes, sausage, corn on the cob and shrimp steamed together as God intended it.

—Sam Spence

small plates with a Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influence. It’s safe to say that pretty much anything you order from here will be incredibly creative.

—Suzanne Cohen

Charleston Grill MODERN AMERICAN

Butcher & Bee

out items from each section of Weaver’s menu and sit back to enjoy the house jazz band tucked in the corner.

—Robert F. Moss

Chez Nous FRENCH

Expensive

Very Expensive

Downtown. 6 Payne Court. (843) 579-3060

Downtown. 224 King St. (843) 577-4522

cheznouschs.com

Moderate

charlestongrill.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.),

Downtown. 1085 Morrison Drive.

Serving Dinner (daily)

Sun. Brunch

MEDITERRANEAN

(843) 619-0202 butcherandbee.com Serving Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

Going on four years since it moved to a bright, sunny building on Morrison Drive, Butcher & Bee is an elevated restaurant that belies its hipster hangout roots in its old dark, tiny space on Upper King Street. B&B’s menu features a large range of dishes with everything from falafel to decadent burgers to carefully crafted fresh seafood and veggie-forward dishes. An excellent feature present on the menu for brunch, lunch and dinner is B&B’s mezze selection, a collection of

Amid ever-shifting culinary fashions, Charleston Grill has remained one of the city’s crown jewels by delivering a consistently flawless dining experience.

Executive chef Michelle Weaver’s dishes can be decadently lush, like her beef tenderloin with bourguignon sauce or seared foie gras, spiked with pineapple rum and cashew-coconut granola. The dishes are balanced, ingredient-centric creations, like a delicate charred octopus tossed with chorizo croquettes, served with smooth adobo aioli, while contemporary spins on Southern cuisine are bold and satisfying. The best way to experience the full sweep of the cuisine is to pick

n e p O w o N

Most mornings before lunch, the Chez Nous Instagram feed (@cheznouscharleston) features a picture of the day’s menu, handwritten in black ink on a small white card in executive chef Jill Mathias’ eccentric and highly stylized script. Next comes a separate picture of each and every dish being served that day, taken from above in flawless light.

Admittedly, it’s only seven pictures total, since Chez Nous serves just two starters, two entrees and two desserts, and the selection changes daily. The setting is charmingly old and the cuisine European-inspired, but it’s hardly a throwback to an older mode of dining.

Chez Nous stands alone just as it is, an eccentric outlier. With such a dynamic menu, any review of Chez Nous is by necessity a fleeting snapshot. On my last visit each of the courses balanced a dark, heavier dish with a brighter fish-based option, and each was splendid, though in very different ways. —Robert F. Moss

Chubby Fish SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 252 Coming St. (843) 222-3949 chubbyfishcharleston.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Executive chef James London serves a hyper-local, daily changing menu at this vibrant Coming Street restaurant. And while the fish selection may vary, London is known for a few signature preparations. Expect raw oysters, crudos and likely one small plate that incorporates caviar, along with heartier options like king mackerel curry, crab tagliatelle and lamb ribs. We recommend ordering several dishes and sharing with the group continued on page 30

BOWENS RAW BAR

OFOPR LEUNNCH Bowen’s Island Restaurant

1870 BOWENS ISLAND RD • 843.795.2757 TUE - SAT, 11AM-9:30PM • BOWENSISLAND.COM

SuRf TaCoS TeQuIlA 2205 MIDDLE STREET SULLIVAN’S ISLAND

1109 PARK WEST BLVD MOUNT PLEASANT

4.5% alc/vol

charlestoncitypaper.com || 29

A refreshing sipper by the pool, on the boat, or any occasion this summer

817 ST. ANDREWS BLVD WEST ASHLEY

30 || DISH || Summer 2022

Top 50 Top 50

from page 28

before finishing off with sweets from Life Raft Treats’ Cynthia Wong, who supplies Chubby Fish with dessert. Chubby Fish doesn’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the wait for one of 30 or so seats inside a restaurant that prides itself on turning under utilized types of fish into dishes you’ll crave for weeks.

—Parker Milner

Coda del Pesce ITALIAN/SEAFOOD

an ideal setting for Vedrinski’s signature high-end Italian fare, which offers plenty of bright flavors and unexpected twists.

Masterful pasta anchors the primi selection, which includes ricotta gnudi tossed with house-made duck Italian sausage in tomato sugo. The secondi highlights fresh fish like swordfish and there’s a little heavier fare, too, like naturally raised veal “marsala.” Pair any of these with an Italian wine from the impressive list, and you’ll have one splendid fish tale to share with friends. —Robert F. Moss

Daps Breakfast & Imbibe

Expensive Isle of Palms. 1130 Ocean Blvd.

BREAKFAST/BRUNCH

(843) 242-8570

Inexpensive

codadelpesce.com

Downtown. 280 Ashley Ave. (843) 718-1098

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

dapsbreakfast.com

With Coda del Pesce, chef/owner Ken Vedrinski of former downtown restaurant Trattoria Lucca headed out to Isle of Palms to create a beachside Italian seafood restaurant. The beautiful secondstory dining room has brick walls, reclaimed wood floors and, in a rarity for the Lowcountry, floor-to-ceiling windows offering a lovely view of the Atlantic. It’s

Serving Breakfast, Brunch (Thurs.-Tues.)

Breakfast fanatics have found a home at Daps Breakfast & Imbibe, where owners Nick Dowling and Jeremiah Schenzel serve sandwiches, daily specials and whimsical plates like Fruity Pebble pancakes or Cinnamon Toast Crunch sticky buns. But don’t be fooled by the duo’s unorthodox take on the morning

meal — each composed plate has a local touch, whether its pork from Holy City Hogs or eggs from Fili-West Farms. The fun-loving atmosphere is the perfect summertime escape, as patrons sip Daps’ canned mimosas on the patio while sinking into the sorghum mayo-topped chickpea sandwich, patty melt or spicy West Coast-style breakfast burrito.

—Parker Milner

Dave’s Carry-Out SOUL FOOD/SEAFOOD

$10 for a generous portion of shrimp to $20 for shrimp, fish, scallops and deviled crab. If you want a true local experience, opt for the lima beans and rice. It’s meaty and filling. A few tables allow customers to dine in, but most folks get their Dave’s to-go, whether for lunch or a greasy latenight snack. —Melissa Tunstall

Delaney Oyster House SEAFOOD

Moderate Downtown. 115 Calhoun St. (843) 594-0099.

Inexpensive

delaneyoysterhouse.com

Downtown. 42-C Morris St. (843) 577-7943

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

facebook.com/Daves-Carry-Out111720082197029/ Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This soul food joint offers a true taste of Charleston. For under $10 you can get a takeout box filled to the brim with the best of Lowcountry cooking like pork chops, crispy chicken wings and fingerlickin’ ribs. The selection of sides is small but tasty — try the lima beans, thick steak fries or rice. The lunch specials change daily, but your best bet is to go with a seafood platter — they range from

The Neighborhood Dining Group — owners of Husk — have converted an old single house on Calhoun Street into a stunner of a seafood restaurant. The raw bar offerings range from local oysters and clams to hackleback caviar, and executive chef Shamil Velazquez’s inventive small plates are stylish and intensely flavored.

Menus have featured rich kombupoached lobster tossed with orbs of tangy Asian pear, ground peanuts and green Thai basil leaves, while a deconstructed chowder delivers tender clams, mussels,

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shrimp and a flawless peach-hued scallop within a pool of creamy, savory broth.

Each dish is finished with precise visual style that befits the picture-perfect setting. Grab a seat out on the second floor piazza, order a glass of chilled red wine and dive in. —Robert F. Moss

cannot be beat. —Vanessa Wolf

Edmund’s Oast

Estadio, which opened on Spring Street in October 2019, is technically the second outpost of a successful Washington, D.C., Spanish-style bar and tapas restaurant. The decor and the deep sherry and gin selection echo the D.C. original, but executive chef Alex Lira’s impressive menu is unique to Charleston.

The pintxos and tapas — grilled shrimp on skewers, crisp patatas bravas, tunatopped “seven minute” eggs — offer beguiling little bites. Fresh local shellfish and savory sofrito- and saffron-laced rice — especially the crispy bits charred to the edges of the flat metal cooking pan — transform the seafood paella into an unforgettable treat. With a slate of sherry cocktails, “gin tonics” made with

MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Downtown. 1081 Morrison Drive.

(843) 727-1145 edmundsoast.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Sun. Brunch

This hip gastropub has a laid-back vibe.

There are communal tables, as well as a chef’s counter and an expansive outdoor patio. Chef Bob Cook’s menu highlights include the house-made charcuterie and cheese plates, plus upscale bar food like fried tripe, hanger steak or crispy chicken with green curry sauce. The drink menu is every bit as compelling, rife with small batch cocktails, meads and a host of inventive beers brewed on-site. And happy hour in The Bower when the weather’s nice, well, the price and vibes

Estadio TAPAS

Moderate Downtown. 122 Spring St. estadio-chs.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

continued on page 32

Rūta Smith file photo

167 Raw’s Sushi Bar offers seafood dishes like charred octopus

COMING O SOON T LE! A D AVON

NOW OPEN

171 E Bay St, Charleston

charlestoncitypaper.com || 31

M-F: 7:30am-2pm, Sa-Su: 7:30am-3pm

32 || DISH || Summer 2022

Top 50 Top 50

from page 31

rare Spanish brands and porróns of wine, Estadio brings a brilliant taste of Spain to the heart of downtown Charleston.

—Robert F. Moss

EVO PIZZA

Inexpensive North Charleston. 1075 E. Montague Ave.

oche buns and smoked shrimp tacos with white bean puree. There’s always a cheffy special or two, like pulled pork empanadas or a pit-smoked pork chop with purple cabbage and apple, and don’t miss out on Home Team’s smoked chicken wings with tangy white Alabama-style sauce.

—Robert F. Moss

FIG MODERN AMERICAN

(843) 225-1796

Very Expensive

evopizza.com

Downtown. 232 Meeting St. (843) 805-5900

Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

eatatfig.com

At EVO, the use of fresh, local ingredients is key, and they’ve been keeping it local from the very beginning, back when they were a mobile wood-fired oven serving pizza at the farmers market in Marion Square. Large chalkboards decorate the walls, listing local ingredients from various farms, along with daily specials, ranging from house-made sausages to duck crostini. But we’re partial to the pizza. The crust is thin and slightly charred, and the mozzarella is made fresh and pulled in-house twice a day.

The pistachio pesto pie was named one of the best pizzas in the country by Food Network Magazine, and the sinful Pork Trifecta keeps customers coming back.

Check out the beer list for what’s on tap, and you’ll find plenty of local brews to keep your inner beer snob happy.

—Kinsey Gidick

Home Team BBQ BARBECUE

Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

In 2003, chef Mike Lata set out to prove that ‘food is good.’ After blazing a trail for the robust local farm-to-table restaurant scene, FIG still stands out, winning awards and creating devotees year after year. Although snagging a reservation can be a challenge, the seasonally inspired cuisine and impeccable service are worth the effort. Change is a constant, but stalwart menu standbys like the fish stew provencal and pillowy ricotta gnocchi alla Bolognese never fail to satisfy. Be sure to check out the wine offerings, as — along with two nods for Best Chef Southeast — FIG is also a national James Beard award-winner for Outstanding Wine Program.

—Vanessa Wolf

The Glass Onion NEW SOUTHERN

Moderate West Ashley. 1219 Savannah Hwy.

Moderate

(843) 225-1717

West Ashley. 1205 Ashley River Road.

ilovetheglassonion.com

(843) 225-7427

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.),

Downtown. 126 Williman St. (843) 225-7427 Sullivan’s Island. 2209 Middle St. (843) 225-7427 hometeambbq.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

With three Charleston locations plus one in Columbia and another way out in Aspen, Colorado, pitmaster/chefs Aaron Siegel and Taylor Garrigan have built an acclaimed barbecue empire. Whether you’re at the West Ashley original or at the newer outposts on Sullivan’s Island or downtown, the barbecue offering is anchored by pulled pork, smoked chicken, ribs and a superb salt-and-pepper brisket, all cooked over wood on offset metal pits.

Siegel’s and Garrigan’s fine-dining roots show in an array of creative snacks and tacos, like chopped brisket sliders on bri-

Sat. Brunch

Since 2008, the Glass Onion has exemplified the “neighborhood favorite” category — a restaurant less formal and ambitious than a fine dining spot but still delivering seriously delicious meals. The offering blends the home cooking of chef/ owner Chris Stewart’s native Alabama with dishes and styles he absorbed while working in fine dining kitchens first in New Orleans and then in Charleston.

That means hearty, savory gumbo brimming with okra and sausage, Cajun boudin balls with Creole mustard and crisp okra beignets served with spicy red remoulade. Pristine local seafood makes for fresh, satisfying plates, like pan-roasted flounder served over tender braised beans and thick mashed potatoes. A few more adventurous entrees,

Our go-to restaurant list

like a beguilingly dark rabbit ragout with ricotta gnocchi, pop up with regularity alongside hearty Southern classics like shrimp and grits and fried catfish with red rice. It’s a surefire formula for a satisfying meal. —Robert F. Moss

The Grocery MODERN AMERICAN

with a celebrated Sunday brunch, The Grocery’s innovative cocktail program features standouts like the dirty green tomato, a martini made with pickled green tomato juice. —Vanessa Wolf

Husk Restaurant NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive

Expensive

Downtown. 76 Queen St. (843) 577-2500

Downtown. 4 Cannon St. (843) 302-8825

huskrestaurant.com

thegrocerycharleston.com

Serving Lunch (Mon.-Sat.), Dinner (daily),

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.), Sun. Brunch

Occupying a space that is at once industrial and inviting, chef/owner Kevin Johnson’s menus are seasonally inspired and passionately local. Utilizing a mix of fresh farmed, fished and foraged ingredients, The Grocery exemplifies farm-to-table dining. The Southern/ Mediterranean offerings have included such highlights as fried oysters with deviled egg sauce and bread and butter pickles. Year-round standbys include the generous portions of Lowcountry seafood pilau and the changing varieties of roasted whole fish, cooked in the restaurant’s massive wood-burning oven. Along

Sun. Brunch

Husk has outposts in Nashville, Greenville and Savannah, but this location — housed in a white mansion on Queen Street — is the original. Here, executive chef Travis Grimes carries out the vision of innovative, modern farmto-table perfection. The kitchen creates such must-try marvels with a frequently changing menu like Southern fried chicken skins, ‘Kentuckyaki’ pigs ear lettuce wraps, or the hulking Carolina heritage pork chop, while dessert offerings include such innovations as the continued on page 34

BLUE PLATE LUNCHES MONDAY - FRIDAY 11am-4pm M Fried Pork Chop T Fried Chicken $9.95 W Pot Roast TH Country Fried Steak F Fried Flounder Includes 2 Sides & Soft Drink

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190+

SUNDAY BRUNCH 11AM-3PM

817 Savannah Highway | 843-225-GENE | Genes.Beer

FULL BAR HCB KITCHEN

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TAKEOUT BRUNCH

34 || DISH || Summer 2022

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savory-sweet cornbread pudding. There’s a welcoming, rustic atmosphere indoors, but if weather permits, sit out on the upstairs porch and enjoy what is, without hesitation, Southern food at its best.

—Vanessa Wolf

Jackrabbit Filly CHINESE

Moderate North Charleston. 4628 Spruill Ave. (843) 460-0037 jackrabbitfilly.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Wed.-Sat.), Sun. Brunch

TACO TUESDAY ALL DAY $2 STREET TACOS WITH RESIDENT DJ NATTY HEAVY THURSDAY TRUFFALO FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICHES SUNDAY BRUNCH WITH QUESO 11AM-4PM & MORE

The menu at Jackrabbit Filly — Shuai and Corrie Wang’s brick-and-mortar jump from their popular Short Grain food truck — takes quintessential Asian fare, and adds some vamp. The pork and cabbage dumplings are where Yangtze meets Ganges, with a rich mix of pork, cabbage, ginger and coriander encased inside the perfectly cooked pasta wrapper. Topped with a pungent chinkiang vinegar and Lao Gan Ma chili crisp sauce, the first bite is like suddenly finding something in life you hadn’t even realized was missing. Short Grain’s beloved karaage endures — the meat is juicy, the coating crunchy, and the drizzle of lemon mayo and ponzu, along with some togarashi-induced heat, should be presented with the following disclaimer: “The karaage is a small structure made of chicken. It is delicious, and you are not ready for it.” While no World Famous Jackrabbit Filly twist contest exists (yet), a similar, multi-tiered, two-foot tall trophy sounds about right. Grab some friends, share the love and share it hard.

—Vanessa Wolf

Kwei Fei CHINESE

Moderate

1809 Reynolds Ave, North Charleston 843-619-0104 • RebelTaqueria.com

menu is an equally wild ride, offering an array of appetizers, entrees and veggiebased sides sorted into blocks labeled “Loud,” “Hot” and “Vibes.” The crescent dumplings are an outstanding way to give your tastebuds a crash course in the events to come. Made with ground pork and redolent Sichuan pepper, the five plump dumplings are served in a soybased, vinegary sauce and topped with fresh cilantro and chives. Hot, sour, salty, sweet: everyone’s here. On the “vibes” side of things, vegetarians are well-taken care of with the dry-fried green beans.

Here some rice makes sense and adds bulk to the delicate haricots verts, which are coated with an intense, chunky garlic and ginger combo with a little spicy kick.

But of course. —Vanessa Wolf

Le Farfalle ITALIAN

Expensive Downtown. 15 Beaufain St. (843) 212-0920 lefarfallecharleston.com Serving Lunch (Mon.-Sat.), Dinner (daily), Sun. Brunch

Led by celebrated chef Michael Toscano, Le Farfalle is certain to delight. The bright, upscale space is generously laid out with an elegant bar suitable for a quick lunch of agnolotti pasta or a relaxed afterdinner conversation over craft cocktails.

Dinner service starts with a slice from the restaurant’s ginormous wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, but matters are then in your own hands. Seasonal appetizer stand outs have included a veal tartare toast served with shoestring fries and a sublime octopus carpaccio. You can’t go wrong with the housemade pastas, and other memorable dinner selections have included a vibrant whole branzino with pine nuts and a tender fried chicken picatta. —Vanessa Wolf

Lenoir NEW SOUTHERN

James Island. 1977 Maybank Hwy.

Downtown. 68 Wentworth St.

kweifei.com

(843) 534-9031

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Dineatlenoir.com

Set next door to Charleston Pour House in the space previously occupied by The Lot, Kwei Fei’s interior looks the sameish, except now the chairs are yellow and you’ll find some Asian knick knacks scattered about. But the updates are the only understated thing about Kwei Fei. Pretty much nothing else — from the food to the music to the chef himself — can be described as subtle. Kwei Fei’s

Serving Dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

Chef Vivian Howard’s first restaurants outside Eastern North Carolina opened in Charleston in the first half of 2021.

After PBS’ A Chef’s Life introduced Howard to audiences far from her first restaurant, Chef & the Farmer in Kinston, N.C., she now has two concepts open in the Wentworth-facing side of the downtown Renaissance Hotel. Handy &

Our go-to restaurant list

Steve Freihon

Basic Kitchen takes meatless options up a notch with dishes like falafel Hot checks the boxes as the hotel’s quickservice lobby cafe (with the addition of snackable hand pies and knockout biscuit sandwiches), but Lenoir is where Howard will make her mark. Tables ring the cozy dining room around a central bar, and a steady stream of reinvented Southern specialties flow from the kitchen. With dishes ranging from local crudo and butterbean agnolotti to the K-town patty melt, Howard’s touch as a chef is apparent without taking things too seriously. Chef Tyson Detzler brings experience at Chef & the Farmer to Howard’s Charleston kitchen, so you know anything local and seasonal will be a good bet on your table. —Sam Spence

Leon’s Fine Poultry & Oysters SEAFOOD

Moderate Downtown. 698 King St. (843) 531-6500 Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

The chargrilled oysters at Leon’s embody the restaurant’s approach to food: unfussy and delicious. The “Fry-Up” platter is a jumble of oysters, shrimp and clams battered and delicately fried and served with a tartar sauce so good we sometimes just dip a fork in it in between bites. If

Lewis Barbecue BARBECUE

Moderate Downtown. 464 N. Nassau St. (843) 805-9500 lewisbarbecue.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Lewis’ building houses four custom-built smokers and a sausage smoker that can cook 1,600 links at a time, all hand-built

by Lewis and his father. Once inside you’ll queue up to have meat hand-sliced by one of two meat-cutters stationed behind a long counter directing you to opposite ends. Lewis’ “life changing” beef brisket is definitely the star. The infinitely tender meat has a salty, peppery crust and shines with melted fat. But there’s also juicy smoked turkey, pulled pork, pork ribs and Texas sausage called “hot guts” available and priced by the pound (or hot guts by the link). After your tray continued on page 36

charlestoncitypaper.com || 35

leonsoystershop.com

we know anything about restaurateurs Brooks Reitz and Tim Mink, it’s that they know how to design a restaurant that both looks and feels good. This is the kind of place that gets in your regular rotation because it’s comfortable, delicious and reliable. —Stephanie Barna

36 || DISH || Summer 2022

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from page 35

is filled with your order of meats, choose your sides from mustardy potato salad, lemon slaw, cowboy beans and rich green chile corn pudding. —Robert Donovan

Maison FRENCH

Expensive Downtown. 708 King St. (843) 990-9165 maisoncharleston.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Maison shares a low, unassuming King Street building with a climbing gym, but step inside and you’ll find an immaculate invocation of a stylish French bistro.

There’s a pewter-topped bar, hexagonal white and black floor tiles and Parisianstyle bistro chairs with white and black woven backs. The menu options — escargots, steak frites au poivre, coq au vin — seem to hew to traditional bistro standards at first, but chef Vandy Vanderwarker gives each a creative, flavorful spin. The sultry coq au vin is a deconstructed delight, with long-marinated chicken that’s braised, shredded

and blended with roasted ramps into an intensely flavored patty. A thick wedge of monkfish tail has a smooth, buttery bite beneath its golden brown sear, heightened by the unexpected richness of roasted chicken butter sauce. With deep, intense flavors and a playful sensibility, Maison’s daring interpretations of traditional French plates are a welcome addition to the Charleston scene.

—Robert F. Moss

Malagon TAPAS

Moderate Downtown. 33 Spring St. (843) 926-0475

by roughly a dozen baby potatoes, tender chunks of octopus have a silky texture similar to that of a rare scallop. The mild flavors of the two soft ingredients are dominated by the sprinkling of smoked paprika on top. Despite being ‘small plates’ and probably owing in part to all the potatoes, your meal can be surprisingly filling and notably affordable.

Malagon is not only doing something different, they’re doing it extremely well.

—Vanessa Wolf

Malika Pakistani Chai Canteen PAKISTANI

malagonchs.com

Moderate

Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

Mount Pleasant. 1333 Theater Dr.

Even experienced tapas lovers may find themselves a bit wide-eyed at Malagon — the comprehensive menu isn’t fooling around. Rather, it gets right down to some sweet tapas tenderness, starting with familiar snacks like marcona almonds and dates wrapped in ham. The mojama (cured tuna belly) is a classic treat. Firm and salty, it’s often referred to as the jamón of the sea. Accompanied

(843) 897-5727 Malikacanteen.com Serving lunch and dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

Owners Maryam Ghaznavi and Raheel Gauba have taken Charleston by storm with their authentic Pakistani comfort food. First starting out as a pop-up in 2019 as Ma’am Saab (which will be opening in the old Jestine’s Kitchen on Meeting Street later this year), the

couple introduced a new cuisine to the market, bringing to the table dishes like chicken biryani or alu gobi. When the couple opened up Malika, they expanded their flavors and brought Pakistani street food to the fold, introducing samosa chaats, aloo tikki, tikka masala and drinks like desi chai or mango lassi. No matter what you get at Malika, though, do not skip out on the masala fries. The fries are extra crispy, yet still soft when you bite into them — and they’re topped with an in-house seasoning blend of cilantro, onions and spicy ketchup. The clashing flavors, from the freshness of the cilantro to the heat of the ketchup, blend perfectly in your mouth. Eat them by the handful. No one’s judging. —Michael Pham

Melfi’s ITALIAN

Expensive Downtown. 721 King St. (843) 513-0307 eatatmelfis.com Serving Dinner (daily)

Named for the family who once ran a pharmacy in the same space, Melfi’s menu

A V I V !

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Our go-to restaurant list

offers updated takes on Italian staples.

The polished, old-school dining room is warm and buzzy, providing a welcome backdrop to get your carbs on. Slip into a leather booth and proceed to feast on house-made linguine tossed with crab, or “Roman-ish” pizza, like the Mr. Wally, made with vodka sauce, Fresno peppers, sliced salami and meaty hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. Don’t miss the delicate tuna crudo with buttery pine nuts and Calabrian chile vinaigrette. Negroni aficionados will appreciate the choice of four innovative variations. —Vanessa Wolf

Nana’s Uptown SOUL FOOD

Inexpensive North Charleston. 5117 Dorchester Road.

(843) 937-9311

Charleston at 5117 Dorchester Road.

Mother and son duo Carolyn and Kenyatta McNeil’s takeout- and deliveryonly outpost specializes in seafood, with options like flounder, whiting, shrimp, scallops and more. But that’s not all you’ll find at Nana’s. The chicken wings are a must as are daily specials like crab legs with garlic shrimp. For sides, expect the classics, with the baked mac and cheese and bread pudding stealing the show and don’t forget to wash it all down with Nana’s signature pineapple sweet tea.

If we’ve learned anything over the past two years, it’s that high quality takeout is something that can’t be taken for granted. Nana’s Uptown delivers every time, offering the North Charleston community an affordable option serving authentic eats. —Parker Milner

nanasseafoodsoul.com

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Annie O’Love’s

Cafe of Sweet Abundance

Serving Lunch and Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Downtown’s Nana’s Seafood & Soul closed in 2020 after nearly two decades on Line Street, but fans of the family owned and operated restaurant can still find its affordable Lowcountry fare at Nana’s Uptown, located in North

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W

e invite you to join us for a communal dinner dining experience where you’ll have the best seats in the house. The five-course chef’s table experience is a traditional Mexican menu, created by Chef Raul Sanchez, and changes weekly to reflect seasonal ingredients.

For dinner reservations, visit us at raulsmayadelsol.com 1816 Reynolds Ave. Suite B • North Charleston • 843-225-2390

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from page 37

Neon Tiger VEGAN

G N I T A E Y H T L SS

GUE E H T E K A T

HEA

Daniel Island • Downtown • James Island + Beech “Acai Shack” in Mt. Pleasant BeechRestaurants.com

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SEAFOOD/SOUTHERN

Moderate Sullivan’s Island. 2063 Middle St. (843) 416-5020

Moderate

theobstinatedaughter.com

Downtown. 654 King St. (843) 640-3902

Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily),

neontiger.com

Weekend Brunch

Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

UT OF WORK O

The Obstinate Daughter

One of a handful of all-vegan establishments in Charleston, Neon Tiger doesn’t shy away from getting creative with its upscale offerings. The crispy konjac shrimp and trumpet mushroom calamari are two standout appetizer options for traditional seafood lovers. For a more classic veggie-forward meal, look to main dishes like lentil ragout and veggie bowl. But, if you want to venture out and see just what the chefs at Neon Tiger can do with an all plant-based menu, opt for the reuben sandwich with seitan smoked meat or the “big buffalo chicken” sandwich that captures everything you love about a chicken sandwich — sans meat. And while you’re at it, order a pizza for the table to split like the barbecue jackfruit or formaggio and champignon.

Whether you’re vegan or just curious looking to try something new, the creativity and flavor of Neon Tiger’s menu will impress. —Samantha Connors

Oak Steakhouse STEAKHOUSE

Expensive Downtown. 17 Broad St. (843) 722-4220 oaksteakhouserestaurant.com Serving Dinner (daily)

Located in a restored 150-year-old bank building, Oak is a long-running favorite for a big Charleston night out.

Hefty prime ribeyes and strips are the main attractions, with luxurious familystyle accompaniments like creamy whipped potatoes and lobster mac and cheese. Within the traditional steakhouse format there is always a twist or two, like a daily local seafood special or beef belly with sorghum barbecue sauce. The deep wine list focuses on California reds, and the service is reliably top-notch, regardless of whether you eat downstairs in the bar area, with its exposed brick walls and clubby red leather booths, or at the white clothdraped tables in the second story dining room, its high windows looking out over Broad Street. —Robert F. Moss

At The Obstinate Daughter, executive chef Jacques Larson’s big, open kitchen has a plancha and a wood-fired oven, and he uses it to create a beguiling array of pizzas, pastas and small plates. The pizzas bear tempting toppings, like clams and roasted fennel or pork meatballs and red peppers. The dishes on the rotating “plates” menu range in size from “Geechie frites” (long strips of fried polenta) to a crispy duck with carrot farrotto, cipollini and chermoula. Fluffy ricotta gnocchi are topped with an intensely flavorful short rib ragu with tender strands of beef in a pool of reddish orange tomato-tinged jus.

OD boasts a cheery, casual environment for enjoying Larson’s impressive parade of delicate but flavorful dishes. And that makes it one of the best upscale dining destinations not just out on the beaches, but anywhere in town. —Robert F. Moss

The Ordinary SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 544 King St. (843) 414-7060 eattheordinary.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

In December 2012, a historic King Street bank building found new life as an upscale oyster hall. The Ordinary — second child of Adam Nemirow and chef Mike Lata — opened with soaring 22-foot ceilings, the promise of locally sourced seafood and lots of buzz. Today such concepts are a dime a dozen (on the half-shell, please). But The Ordinary was the first of its kind, and I would argue, still the best. While regularly packed and filled with an upbeat ambiance, the high ceilings diffuse the jovial noise to a pleasant buzz. Along with six daily varieties of raw oysters on the half shell, the house-smoked oysters are not to be missed. Presented in an oil and vinegarfilled preserve jar and spiked with slices of crisp pickled celery, the six oysters are so gently smoked that they are still raw.

As a result, each is tender and juicy, the delicate hint of ocean flavor touched with woodsy smoke. Served with fancied-up saltines (brushed with butter and continued on page 40

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843.534.2434 CruCafe.com 18 Pickney St. Downtown Charleston

40 || DISH || Summer 2022

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Old Bay), rich, cold creme fraiche and vibrant hot sauce, the combination is outstanding: cool, crisp and smoky all at once. —Vanessa Wolf

The Pass SANDWICHES

Inexpensive Downtown. 207-A St Philip St.

NEIGBORHOOD TIKI BAR & LOUNGE

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course. “We’re trying to take it in a much more refined aspect,” Fortuna said about the restaurant’s new direction. “A lot less meat and the stuff that’s been there for a long time. It’s really just trying to put nice, beautifully composed plates on the dish and working a lot with local farmers & seafood.” —Vanessa Wolf

Pink Bellies VIETNAMESE

Thepasschs.com

Expensive

Serving Lunch (Wed.-Sun.)

Downtown. 595 King St. (843) 640-3132

“Unapologetically interesting sandwiches” is this quaint sandwich shop’s motto. Nestled into the Cannonborough/ Elliotborough area of downtown Charleston, the 700-square-foot space serves up carefully curated, gourmet sandwiches including: the Cacio e Pepe, a sandwich served on sourdough bread filled with cheesy goodness mixed with the saltiness of prosciutto and a drizzle of truffle honey; Such a Nice Italian Boy, a classic Italian sandwich with pickled Calabrian chili relish on a ciabatta roll; and the LBC, the perfect breakfast sandwich with house-cured lox, housemade scallion cream cheese, cucumbers and pickled onions on an everything bagel.

Owner and chef Anthony Marini also offers vegetarian and vegan sandwich options as well as another popular menu item — the OMG, I’m Coming Rome.

Not so much a sandwich, this offering is served with a large helping of diced tuna crudo flavored with citrus and roasted tomato oil mixed with green onion, capers and avocado. Dip the generous portion of crostini that accompanies this dish into the crudo mix, and you won’t be able to stop until the plate is clean.

—Samantha Connors

Peninsula Grill NEW SOUTHERN

Very Expensive Downtown. 112 N. Market St. (843) 723-0700 peninsulagrill.com Serving Dinner (daily)

There are milestones in life that require a fancy steak. Or at least the kind of place where one can get a fancy steak. If you’re in the midst of such an occasion, Peninsula Grill has got you covered. Even after more than two decades, Peninsula Grill continues to impress with its luxurious fare. Executive chef Kalen Fortuna has taken the helm, bringing with him over a decade of fine dining experience with plans to change the restaurant’s

eatatpinkbellies.com Serving Dinner (Thurs.-Sun.)

From their humble beginnings as a food truck serving hungry College of Charleston students, Pink Bellies has grown to a bustling hot spot on Upper King Street. The cult-followers of Thai Phi’s spicy, decadent garlic noodles showed up in droves when the restaurant first opened its brick and mortar location for takeout only in March of 2021. Now, diners can enjoy this signature dish and other Vietnamese fare in a moody, yet vibrant dining room that brings a muchneeded modern vibe to King Street.

Other fan favorites include the spicy lamb dumplings and pho mai burger. The vibrant flavors do not stop at the food, they are incorporated seamlessly into the cocktail menu. Try the Tres Coop Riff, a tequila-based cocktail with an orange creamsicle flavor that is smoked and topped with cinnamon chips for a s’mores flavor. —Elise DeVoe

Post House Restaurant MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Mount Pleasant. 101 Pitt St. (843) 203-7678 theposthouseinn.com Serving Dinner (daily); Weekend Brunch

Post House Restaurant opened in Mount Pleasant in August 2020 after undergoing significant renovations led by Kate and Ben Towill of design and hospitality firm Basic Projects. Evan Gaudreau, a 2019 James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef nominee, served as the kitchen’s first executive chef, a role that was later assumed by Isles of Palms native Nathan Hood. Post House is a reincarnation of The Old Village Post House, which closed in February 2019 after 16 years at 101 Pitt St. The Towills completely redesigned the circa-1896 space, moving the main dining room to the back of the continued on page 42

for OPEN ERVICE S FULLG and N I N I D UT TAKEO soulful

food

charlestoncitypaper.com || 41

Mon-Sat11am-9pm 1219 Savannah Hwy • ILoveTheGlassOnion.com

42 || DISH || Summer 2022

eezy’s

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ICE CREAM & COCKTAILS

Rūta Smith file photo

The Pass serves up gourmet sandwiches in a charming, intimate setting

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restaurant and the bar to face Pitt Street.

The space is adorned with antiques, vintage rugs, local art, archival wallpaper and handcrafted fixtures. You’ll find seasonal snacks, raw bar options, fresh pastas, local seafood and an assortment of vegetarian dishes at Post House. Local seafood massaman curry, Carolina heritage farm pork with creamy kimchi collard greens and a “backbar” cheeseburger are some of the main dishes that pair with starters like lamb wraps or Anson Mills cornbread. Post House also features an expansive wine list with bottles from around the world, and those looking for a staycation can grab a room in the quaint inn connected to the restaurant.

—Parker Milner

Renzo PIZZA

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Moderate Downtown. 384 Huger St. (843) 952-7864 renzochs.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This former storefront-turned-hip neighborhood trattoria has a wood-fired oven and knows how to use it. Along with

tempting starters like warm homemade sourdough bread or charred cauliflower florets with savory mushoom XO sauce, the menu features a trio of pastas, plus an array of creative Neapolitan-style pizzas. Feeling adventurous? The Cheli offers a tomato base with lamb sausage, tangy pickled peppers, honey and za’atar.

There’s a bagel brunch on Sundays, plus Renzo offers one of the area’s largest selections of nat wine. —Vanessa Wolf

Rodney Scott’s BBQ BARBECUE

Inexpensive Downtown. 1011 King St. (843) 990-9535 rodneyscottsbbq.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Rodney Scott made waves in 2017 when, after two decades of cooking hogs at his family’s acclaimed operation in Hemingway, he brought his traditional burn barrel style of barbecue down to Charleston. That splendid whole hog — basted in a pepper-laced sauce and pulled into long, succulent strands — remains the foundation of Scott’s offering on King Street, but he’s added a continued on page 44

e v r e s s y a w l a e W ! e m i t t a e r g a up Reggae Nights Summer Concert

August 5

Dancing on the Cooper

August 20, September 17, & October 1

Toast Under the Oaks September 1 & 15

Wine Down Wednesday

September 7, October 5 & 19

Yappy Hour

September 8, 22, & 29

Dog Day Afternoon

September 10 & 11

MODERN TRADITIONAL OAXACAN CUISINE

INGREDIENTS AND TECHNIQUES

All Day Menu Tue–Sat 11am-9:30 pm Tequila & Taco Hour Tue–Sat 3pm-6pm 100-A Spring St • PinkCactusCHS.com

Starlight Yoga

September 15 & October 13

Evening of Remembrance September 25

Lowcountry Trail Half Marathon and 5K October 1

Latin American Festival October 9

Palmetto Park Jam

October 23

Calabria’s Fine Foods has partnered with Lowcountry Oyster Company to offer raw bars, oyster roasts, & grilled oysters for this season.

ChefGrahamCalabria.com for bookings or email Hello@CalabriasCooking.com

charlestoncitypaper.com || 43

CHARLESTONCOUNTYPARKS.COM

44 || DISH || Summer 2022

Top 50 Top 50

from page 42

few new options for the city crowd, like meaty spareribs, crisp fried catfish and craft beer on tap. The flawless collards and the ribeye sandwiches, made from pit-smoked steak sliced thin and piled high on soft rolls, are must-try sleepers.

Now, with a second restaurant open in Birmingham and two more in the works, Rodney Scott is exporting South Carolina-style whole hog cookery across the entire South. —Robert F. Moss

Royal Tern SEAFOOD

Expensive Johns Island. 3005 Maybank Hwy. (843) 718-3434 theroyaltern.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Set on Johns Island between Wild Olive and The Fat Hen, The Royal Tern is a welcome and well-positioned addition to that existing pair of successful Maybank Hwy restaurants. With a focus on fish, the menu offers an aquarium-full of options. Along with a raw bar, there are

fried “and chips” platters, elegant small plates and four variations of cooked oysters. Add to that a handful of sandwiches, a half-dozen seafood entrees and a hat trick of wood-fired steaks. The building is also glorious. Outside, it’s effortlessly stylish and would look just as appropriate nestled amongst a row of upscale beachfront estates. Inside, the chic, airy space boasts wood floors and high ceilings adorned with dramatic lights that resemble giant clusters of white grapes. The interior incorporates a number of current trends, including an open kitchen, marble-topped bar and miles of banquette seating. One of the best-looking joints in the area, The Royal Tern offers a hip place to scratch a variety of seafood itches on Johns Island.

—Vanessa Wolf

Shiki SEAFOOD

Moderate Downtown. 334 E Bay St. (843) 720-8568 shikicharleston.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

One of downtown’s longest standing

restaurants, SHIKI delivers fresh sushi rolls, nigiri and more in a cozy, newly renovated dining room, which is set to reopen this summer. Owner Hae Gon “David” Park opened SHIKI at 334 E. Bay St. in 2001 after moving to Charleston from New York City, where he worked at esteemed sushi restaurants like Yuraku, serving as head sushi chef for five years. The chef prides himself on sourcing the highest-quality fish and his technique when making rolls, sashimi and nigiri is second to none. Patrons who want to go big can order the chef’s choice “omakase,” which translates to “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese. Chef Park will bring out a seemingly endless assortment of sashimi and nigiri bites, allowing guests to try a little bit of everything. For less devout sushi enthusiasts, there’s approachable options like tempura shrimp and avocado rolls, teriyaki beef, pork katsu and more. Shiki’s menu hasn’t changed much over the years, but why would it, as the restaurant helps fill a void in a city that has very few sushi-focused restaurants. Next time you’re in the mood for high quality

sushi, give this family owned and operated restaurant a try. —Parker Milner

Slightly North of Broad NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive Downtown. 192 East Bay St. (843) 723-3424 snobcharleston.com Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

Slightly North of Broad (SNOB) is the perfect place to take visiting friends for their first taste of Charleston cuisine, for it embodies so much of what makes the city’s dining scene special. Since taking the reins in 2016, executive chef Russ Moore has deftly balanced the restaurant’s traditional dishes with more forward-looking fare. Pristinely fresh seafood gets an elegant Southern touch on plates like New Bedford scallops with tomato ham hock broth or seared tuna topped with crisp fried oysters and tart yellow “mustard Q” sauce. SNOB was a local charcuterie pioneer and a platter of hearty country pate, savory continued on page 46

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Save the Date

“...So refreshing! Bobby shares generations of recipes and stories passed down to him, which I learned upon moving to Charleston are markers of classic Southern Cuisine.”

46 || DISH || Summer 2022

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from page 44

Xiao Bao Biscuit ASIAN FUSION

pork rillettes and lush chicken liver mousse is the perfect evening starter.

—Robert F. Moss

Stella’s GREEK

Moderate Downtown. 114 St. Philip St. (843) 400-0026 stellascharleston.com Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Breezy Like Sunday Morning BRIGHTENING OUTDOOR SPACES SINCE 1984

It’s hard to say what’s most striking about Stella’s on St. Philip Street. Is it the hip, yet boisterous vibe? The large portions at an incredibly reasonable price point? Or the vast, authentic and consistently delicious menu? Regardless of your ultimate conclusion, this is a trifecta worth a visit… Or five. The grilled octopus and spanakopita are simple perfection, while the saganaki is a visual showstopper and an excuse to pig out on cheese. Stella’s own recipes — namely her calamari and braised lamb shank with No. 5 noodles and brown butter shank sauce, are at once comforting and elevated, testimony to the woman who inspired it all. —Vanessa Wolf

Wild Olive ITALIAN

Moderate Johns Island. 2867 Maybank Hwy. (843) 737-4177 wildoliverestaurant.com Serving Dinner (daily)

Best Lighting Store Finalist Best of Charleston 2022® Mon-Fri 8:30am - 4pm Sat 10am - 2pm 843-763-2282 1027 St. Andrews Blvd RicksLighting.com

Right off Maybank Highway sits Wild Olive, chef Jacques Larson’s haven for exquisite Italian fare. Since 2009, it has served as the go-to place for anniversary dinners and reunions with old friends.

A comfortable bar greets those looking for a casual bite but don’t let that relaxed atmosphere deceive you. Larson’s food is anything but. Incredible (and decadent) risotto fritters stuffed with sausage, spinach, Parmesan and mozzarella are a great way to start. And always ask about the specials, of which there are plenty.

A past highlight was a pappardelle with prosciutto, pork and escarole. Larson is a firm believer in local and his conviction permeates everything on the plate.

—Kinsey Gidick

Inexpensive Downtown. 224 Rutledge Ave. xiaobaobiscuit.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

What started as a pop-up with a devout following eventually found a dedicated shrine much to the delight of all who crave a wide swath of Asian flavors (Chinese, Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Thai, Taiwanese) interpreted with fresh Lowcountry ingredients. The dishes are not for the meek or unadventurous; each packs escalating levels of heat. On the gentler scale is the popular Okonomiyaki, a Japanese cabbage pancake criss-crossed with drizzles of sriracha and Japanese mayo, then topped with a runny-yolk egg.

On the spicy end of the scale is the Mapo Dofu, whose cubes of tofu incinerate your taste buds with swirls of chili oil, leaving heat seekers crying through tears of gratitude as they lick their plates clean. Cool your palate with a coconut milk or a (nonalcoholic) lemongrass ginger beer.

—Allston McCrady

Zero Restaurant + Bar MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Downtown. 0 George St. (843) 817-7900 zerogeorge.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

On the grounds of the elegant Zero George Street Boutique Hotel, Zero Restaurant + Bar’s romantic dining room is set in a former carriage house built in 1804. Here, chef Vinson Petrillo whips up innovative tasting menus with the option of four or seven courses, plus optional wine pairings. Selections vary with the seasons, but anticipate such treats as lightly grilled mackerel served with foie gras and local citrus, or venison prepared with vadouvan curry and taleggio cheese. Hit up happy hour for a craft cocktail; whether wielding a lead pipe or the candlestick, the bourbonbased Colonel Mustard is sure to pack a punch. —Vanessa Wolf

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48 || DISH || Summer 2022

CHARLESTON’S

FAVORITES TRIED AND TRUE HOLY CITY EATERIES

CRU CAFE Fried green tomato, pork belly croutons, sheep’s milk feta, smoked tomato caramel 1784 Harmon St., Charleston (843) 534-2433 • crucatering.com

GABRIELLE AT HOTEL BENNETT Bold and flavorful dining overlooking Marion Square.

404 King St., Downtown 844-713-0404 • GabrielleDining.com

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Cafe of Sweet Abundance ANNIE O’LOVE’S CAFE OF SWEET ABUNDANCE MacDaddy Chik’n Sammie, Chocolate Covered Strawberry Shortcake Jar of Abundance, Dream Big Cookie of Abundance, Cookie Celebration Vegan Cheesecake, Chik’n and Waffles 1901 Ashley River Road, Charleston 843-225-8368 • annieolovegranola.com

BEDFORD FALLS Bedford Burger, Crispy Chicken Sandwich, Dry-Rubbed wings, Spicey Margarita, $3 Coors Banquet 430 Meeting St., Charleston (843) 577-9312 • bedfordfallschs.com

BEECH Beech bowl, sweet fire bowl, chicken bowl, avacado toast, avie monkey smoothie 864 Island Park Drive, Daniel Island 315 King St., Charleston 1739 Maybank Hwy., James Island Acai Shack 1973 Riviera Drive, Mt. Pleasant beechrestaurants.com

CALABRIA’S FINE FOODS Oysters on the half shell, Stuffed Endives, Shrimp & Okra Purloo, Carpetbagger with Filet Mignon & Nashville hot fried Oysters, hello@calabriascooking.com 843.371.3834 • ChefGrahamCalabria.com

CANTINA 76 Peruvian shrimp taco, beef brisket taco, roasted chicken salad, chicken quesadilla, veggie taco 819 Coleman Blvd., Mt. Pleasant (843) 388-7717 219 Farm Lake View Road, Kiawah Island (843) 737-4607 • cantina76.com

CAROLINE’S ALOHA BAR Duck club sliders, pub burger, crab rangoons, beer cheese loaded tots, shrimp skewers.

15 Magnolia Road, Avondale 843-769-0228 • carolinesalohabar.com

CHARLESTON OYSTER HOUSE Oyster shooter, whole crispy flounder, snapper, coast seafood special, she crab soup, roasted beet salad 35 S. Market St., Charleston (843) 853-2900 • oysterhouse.menu BOHEMIAN BULL Build your own burger, wings, classic reuben, southern fried chicken sandwich 1531 Folly Road, James Island (843) 225-1817 • bohemianbull.com

BOWENS ISLAND RESTAURANT Locally harvested oysters, fried shrimp, hushpuppies, Frogmore stew 1870 Bowens Island Road, Charleston (843) 795-2757 • bowensisland.com

COCKTAIL CLUB Tea Time Cocktail, Double Standard, The Stay At Home Dad, Send Nudes Cocktail, Water My Lawn Punch Bowl 479 King St., Charleston 843-734-9411 theccoktailclubcharleston.com

DEEP WATER VINEYARD Palmetto Pepper Jalepeno Wine, Rotating Draft Meads, Magnolia White Wine, Sea Island Red Wine, Zinfandel red wine 6775 Bears Bluff Road, Wadmalaw Island (843) 559-6867 • deepwatervineyard.com

DUKE’S BBQ Meat + 2 or 3, meatloaf (Wednedays), fried flounder & red rice (Fridays), BBQ by the pound, banana pudding 331 Folly Road, Charleston 843-789-4801• facebook.com/DukesSC

EAST BAY DELI Chief Reuben, The Citadel, buffalo chicken wrap, crunchy salad 1120 Oakland Market Road, Mount Pleasant • (843) 216-5423, 334 E. Bay St. Ste. H, Downtown (843) 723-1234, 405 Dorchester Road, North Charleston (843) 747-1235, 858 Savannah Hwy, West Ashley (843) 571-2244, 9135 University Blvd., North Charleston (843) 553-7374 2519 N. Main St. Suite B, Summerville (843) 471-2444 • eastbaydeli.com

FLEET LANDING Charleston shrimp & grits, stuffed hush puppies, Lowcountry seafood pasta, triggerfish sandwich, crab cakes.

186 Concord St, Charelston (843) 722-8100 • Fleetlanding.net

FLORENCE’S LOWCOUNTRY KITCHEN Fried Flounder, Shrimp & Grits, Crab Cake Benedict, Fried Chicken, Jambalaya 90 Folly Road, Charleston 843-507-8385 • FlorencesKitchen.com

GAULART & MALICLET/FAST & FRENCH Bouillabaisse, Fondues (Cheese, Beef, or Chocolate), Le French Hot Dog, Vegetarian Escargot , Rendezvous For Two 98 Broad St., Charleston (843) 577-9797 • fastandfrenchcharleston.com

GENE’S HAUFBRAU Buffayaki or Southern fried wings, hand breaded chicken tenders, the motherload burger, fried pork chop sandwich, chicken quesadilla 817 Savannah Hwy, Charleston 843-225-4363 • genes.beer

THE GLASS ONION Upbeat spot serving refined, locally sourced soul-food favorites in charming environs.

1219 Savannah Hwy., Charleston 843-225-1717 • ilovetheglassonion.com

HOLY CITY BREWING Holy City burger, chicken wings, soft pretzels 1021 Aragon Ave., North Charleston (843) 459-2948 • holycitybrewing.com

INDACO 526 King St., Charleston (843) 727-1228 indacorestaurant.com

JALISCO Roasted shrimp, tamales, enchiladas, taco birria, carne asada 1271 Folly Road, Charleston (843) 638-8844 Jalisco-chs.com

KISS CAFE Hash It Out, Nunzio Perfect French Dip, The New Yorker, and specialty mimosas.

1802 Crowne Commons Way, Johns Island • (843) 405-8808 • kiss-cafe.com

LEWIS BARBECUE El Sancho Sandwich, Texas Hot Guts, Beef Brisket, Pork Spare Ribs, Green Chile Corn Pudding, Mac & Cheese, Brisket Nachos, Banana Pudding 464 N. Nassau St., Downtown (843) 805-9500 • lewisbarbecue.com

LOCALS Unique sushi rolls, great bar food and local drinks 1150 Queensborough Blvd, Mt. Pleasant 1680 Old Towne Road • Charleston localssushi.com • localsraw.com

MAYA CHARLESTON Aguachile, tuna tostada, al pastor taco, pollo en mole negro, enchiladas de calabaza 479-B King St., Charelston (843) 789-4299 • mayachs.com

PADDOCK & WHISKY Paddock Old Fashion, Race Day, Tequila Fresca, Tartare, Fries with Bernaise 1074 E Montague Ave., Park Circle (843) 203-4238 1962 Maybank Hwy., James Island (843) 225-5877 • Paddockandwhisky.com

PEACE PIE Salted Caramel Brownie, Key Lime Pie, Pecan Pie, Strawberry Shortcake, Molten Chocolate 223 Meeting St., Charleston 843-764-9611 • Peacepieworld.com

PINK CACTUS Don’t miss our killer tamales, tacos, enchiladas, tortas, quesadillas and most importantly — margaritas!

100 A Spring St., Charleston (843) 764-9343 • pinkcactuschs.com

POKE BROS Signature bowls like “The Duke” or the “Johnny Utah”, or build your own bowl.

Mochi ice cream. GF options.

5070 International Blvd., North Charleston 644-H1 Long Point Road, Mount Pleasant • (843) 800-5600 eatpokebros.com

MAYA DEL SOL KITCHEN Five course chef table dinner experience by reservation only. Thu-Sat 1813 Suite B, Reynolds Ave., North Charleston (843) 225-2390 raulsmayadelsol.com

REBEL TAQUERIA Tacos, Burritos, Bowls, Quesadillas, Nachos, Salads & More 1809 Reynolds Ave., North Charleston 843-619-0104 • rebeltaqueria.com

RUBY SUNSHINE Cochon benedict, bananas foster pain perdu, chicken st. Charles benedict, white chocolate bread pudding pancakes.

171 East Bay St., Charelston (843) 253-8188 • rubysunshine.com

STEEL CITY PIZZA Parmesan dippers, godfather weggie, spaghetti and meatballs, our white pizza, and the Steel City Special pizza 1440 Ben Sawyer Blvd. #1301, Mount Pleasant (843) 856-2525 8600 Dorchester Road, North Charleston (843) 225-6111 • steelcitypizza.com

SUNRISE BISTRO Breakfast burrito, open faced omelets, grits bowl, shrimp and grits 1039 Johnnie Dodds Ave., Mount Pleasant (843) 856-7796 1797 Main Road, Johns Island (843) 718-1858 110 Miles Jamison Road, Summerville (843) 225-6201 • sunrise-bistro.com

TRIANGLE CHAR & BAR Triangle Char + Bar’s menu features killer burgers, a sweet selection of tacos, eclectic entrees and an array of tasty bar snacks – all available for takeout!

828 Savannah Hwy., Charleston (843) 377-1300 • trianglecharandbar.com

UNCORK CHARLESTON Stuffed Portobello Mushrooms, Smoked Bourbon Brisket Sandwich, Three Cheese Baked Tortellini, Chicken Marsala, She Crab Soup 476 King Street, Charelston 843-222-3939 • Uncorkchs.com

VICKERY’S Lowcountry sauté, shrimp, sausage and grits, classic Cuban sandwich, mahi club, cashew encrusted tuna salad 1313 Shrimp Boat Lane, Mount Pleasant (843) 884-4440 • vickerysmtp.com

VIVA TACOS & TEQUILA Our Chilaquiles will definitely change how you do brunch time! Brunch here at VIVA happens every Saturday and Sunday from 11am-2pm, so don’t miss out!

864 Island Park Drive, Charleston (843) 972-8683 • vivatacostequila.com

eezy’s ICE CREAM & COCKTAILS

THAILICIOUS Authentic Thai dishes by Thai chefs created from imported ingredients.

Savory noodles to stir fries to fried rice to noodle soup to hot pot. Come take your taste buds on a journey to Thailand!

1975 Magwood Drive, Charleston (843) 501-7167 • thailicious.com

WEEZY’S ICE CREAM & COCKTAILS Brown Butter Bourbon Truffle Ice Cream, Summer of 77’ Cocktail, Adult Margarita Milkshake, Pig n’ Fig Panini, PGA Tour Flatbread 3293 Maybank Hwy., suite 205, Johns Island • 843-718-3136 weezysicecreambar.com

WANT TO ADVERTISE IN OUR NEXT ISSUE? contact us 843-577-5304 sales@charlestoncitypaper.com

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MEX 1 COASTAL CANTINA Taco tailgate box, Mex 1 margarita mix, guacamole and quesadillas 817 St. Andrews Blvd., West Ashley (843) 751-4001 2205 Middle St., Sullivan’s Island (843) 882-8172 1109 Park West Blvd., Mt. Pleasant (843) 352-9699 mex1coastalcantina.com

RANCHO LEWIS Beef Enchiladas, Chiles Rellenos, Chile con Queso, Coctel de Shrimp, Fajitas, Sopapillas, Margaritas, Rattlesnake Milk 1503 King St., Downtown (843) 996-4500 rancholewischs.com

RED’S ICE HOUSE Bubba Shrimp Platter, Smokehouse Platter, Palmetto Burger, Old Bay Shrimp Salad, Wild Buffalo Chicken Wrap 98 Church St., Mt. Pleasant 843-388-0003 • redsicehouse.com

50 || DISH || Summer 2022

ESSAY

INSPIRATION EVERYWHERE How I find meaning in the dishes created at Jack of Cups

By Lesley Carroll

When people ask about “inspiration” behind menu items, it’s sometimes tough to answer. Ideas come from everywhere and everything! I like to start with a vegetable and work my way out. I also like to start with a garnish and work my way in. I like bold flavors, and I like combining ingredients that surprise people.

That’s a whole special brain category to pull from.

Sometimes it’s the weather, or I’m missing my family or friend I haven’t seen in a long time. Menu items come from places around the world I really want to travel to, places that may be out of reach for now.

Inspiration can also come from nothing, a lightning bolt moment that just pops in there and impatiently sits until I try it out. If I’m stuck, or I’m trying to find a place to start, I love to read cookbooks and read old menus. I have watched hours and hours of videos over the years, including a video showing 60 or so ways to cook a potato. (That was during the height of the pandemic I think, so that checks out.)

Food itself inspires togetherness and celebrations and self care. That is probably my main drive. I want people to come to Jack of Cups, or my house or even on a damn picnic with me and feel something about the food that I’ve made. I want it to remind them of something — something that makes them happy or feel cared for.

As Jack of Cups grows I’m trying to learn about the chef that I want to be and where we go from here. Each day brings new information, new experiences and interactions which inevitably keeps the idea machine turning and evolving. I’m so lucky to be doing what I’m doing with the people I’m doing it with.

Lesley Carroll is the co-owner and executive chef of Jack of Cups Saloon located at 34 Center St. on Folly Beach.

Lesley Carroll of Jack of Cups finds inspiration and executes it for Jack of Cups’ devoted diners

Ashley Rose Stanol

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GabrielleDining.com | 844.713.0404 | 404 King St. Charleston, SC 29403