Charleston City Paper - Dish Dining Guide, Spring 2022

a Charleston City Paper publication

Spring 2022 || Free

ESCAPE

THE USUAL. Step away from the ordinary at Élevé and discover vibrant, European-inspired cuisine with an artful twist. Then, step into our rooftop bar and lounge for an herb-infused craft cocktail and spectacular views of the city’s historic skyline.

FOR RESERVATIONS, FIND US ON OPENTABLE.

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elevecharleston.com | @GrandBohemianCharleston

4 || DISH || Spring 2022

167 Sushi Bar’s crab rangoon roll

Publisher: Andy Brack

editorial Senior Editor: Chris Dixon Contributing Editors: Herb Frazier, Chelsea Grinstead, Michael Pham, Michael Smallwood Staff Writer: Skyler Baldwin Digital Editor: Samantha Connors Contributors: Stephanie Barna, Susan Cohen, Suzanne Cohen, Katherine Connor, Elise DeVoe, Eric Doksa, Robert Donovan, Kinsey Gidick, Allston McCrady, Robert F. Moss, Melissa Tunstall, Vanessa Wolf, Mary Scott Hardaway, Sam Spence

sales Advertising Director: Cris Temples Account Executives: Hollie Anderson Kristin Byars Ashley Frantz Gregg Van Leuven Sales Assistant: Melissa Veal

design Rūta Smith

Ah, spring. Warm weather, cool breezes and clouds of pollen and no-see-ums in the air. Don some shorts, grab those bottles of Allegra and bug spray and head out to enjoy all the Lowcountry spring has to offer. This edition of Dish, Charleston City Paper’s quarterly publication of the Holy City’s culinary world, takes you out of the house and out to town — and beyond, with lists galore, picnic dining in style and the love of the slice!

Inside this spring’s Dish, we’ve updated our venerable list of Top 50 Restaurants, showcasing Charleston’s ever-evolving foodscape. We’re also delivering a massive round-up of spots to snag a roll of sushi.

In the mood for a picnic? Experts from Avondale Wine & Cheese and goat.sheep.cow. have some tips for a perfect charcuterie board set up for an outdoor dining spread with friends or family.

And finally, we set out on a trip across

the peninsula and chatted up with some of the city’s pizza pundits to answer the age old question: What’s so great about pizza, anyways? Find out the answer and more in this edition of Dish.

—Michael Pham

inside (p6)

(p8)

(p12)

(p22)

Local pie bakers answer this ultimate question

Enjoy a springtime picnic with to-go charcuterie and cheese platters

Where to find a fresh sushi roll in the Lowcountry

Our top restaurants in Charleston for Spring 2022

What’s So Great About Pizza, Anyway?

Making the Cut

(p47)

Best Of Charleston Redux A look back at the bars and restaurants who won in 2021

Some Like it Raw

(p48)

Charleston’s Takeout Favorites Great Local Grab & Go Favorites — a special advertising section

The Dish Top 50

(p50)

Lessons Learned Chef Jenny Gaddy talks about growing up and learning the value of good food

Art Director: Scott Suchy Production Director: Déla O’Callaghan Graphic Designer: Christina Bailey Staff Photographer: Rūta Smith

distribution Circulation Team: Chris Glenn, Robert Hogg, Stephen Jenkins, David Lampley, John Melnick, Tashana Remsburg, Tony Rhone Published by City Paper Publishing, LLC Members: J. Edward Bell • Andrew C. Brack

on the cover Fuji’s Sweetheart, Rainbow and Mt. Fuji rolls, photographed

by Rūta Smith.

Dish is a publication of the Charleston City Paper and is published quarterly

by City Paper Publishing, LLC. All content is copyrighted and the property of City Paper Publishing, LLC. Charleston City Paper P.O. Box 21942 Charleston, SC 29413 (843) 577-5304 charlestoncitypaper.com

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WHAT’S SO ABOUT

GREAT

PIZZA, ANYWAY?

By Michael Pham

Pizza is like a lover. Its circular shape is a hug, the burns at the roof of your mouth are a painful yet satisfying kiss. The simplicity of dough, tomato sauce and mozzarella blasted in a 500-degree oven is the perfect companion to cozy up with after a rough day.

There’s no denying the fact that pizza is universally loved, but why? City Paper sought out a handful of our best local pie bakers to answer this ultimate question.

“I think the reason we like pizza and why most people like pizza is that it’s a very every person-type of food,” said D’Allesandro’s Pizza co-owner Nick D’Allesandro. “It’s accessible for everybody … and it’s not too expensive. It’s just good, easy food for everybody to enjoy.”

Angie Tunstall of Baker and Brewer shares the sentiment: “It’s comfort food. It makes all ranges of people happy in the sense of, it’s something Frannie and the that when you go out with your friends who might be a vegetarian, or your mother or with Fox serves pies like this daily at your kids, everybody’s going to find a pizza, Hotel Emmeline right? So I mean, just that alone, like the ease of it, pizza makes people happy.”

“It’s a complete meal, and I’m not sure if it’s true, but in college, my professor told me a Photo by Rūta Smith

continued on page 8

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Pizza

from page 6

cheese pizza has more nutritional value than liver and onions,” said Baker and Brewer’s bartender Chris DeArmond.

“I mean, I think really, it’s the simplicity of it,” said Emmeline food and beverage manager Adam Jimenez.

“Overall, right it’s at its heart, it’s a pretty simple idea. And I do think that’s generally what most people enjoy about it. The idea of just grabbing a piece and having at it, so to speak.”

Chef Tim Morton of Frannie and the Fox had a more direct explanation: “Melted cheese on bread is just always delicious.”

Toppings. Some like them hot. Some like them … not.

That simplicity and accessibility of pizza boils down to its roots. According to History, the dish popularized in Naples in the 1700s and 1800s by the poor working class who “required inexpensive food that could be consumed quickly,” and pizza — “flatbread with various toppings” — met those requirements.

“Pizza has obviously evolved over the years,” Jimenez said. “But I think it’s still considered easy even if you know what goes into it and are doing it really well.”

What makes a good pizza, though?

Base ingredients are simple: dough, cheese and tomato sauce, so of course, it’s the quality of ingredients that really matters. “Making sure you have the best ingredients really makes a huge difference,” Jimenez said.

“What makes a good one is the care that somebody puts into making it,” added D’Allesandro.

Plenty of other items can top a pie of course. Pepperoni, tomato, mozzarella and basil (Margherita), mushrooms, bell peppers, banana peppers, sausage, olives and anchovies can be found at any selfrespecting pizza parlor. But around town it’s not too hard to find kale, arugula, grilled pineapple, roasted cauliflower, squash, pesto, artichoke, sun dried tomato, goat cheese, blue cheese, feta, prosciutto or even locally caught shrimp.

Jason Adelaars, a line cook at Baker and Brewer, said, “There are just so many toppings. Sky’s the limit with customization.”

“The diversity that can go into toppings is incredible,” added Tunstall. “You can get, you know, spicy calabrese on there and then have the acidity of pickled continued on page 10

Photos by Rūta Smith

Angie Tunstall of Baker & Brewer with its margherita pizza

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Pizza

from page 8

red onions with it. There’s so much diversity on what can go on top of a pizza without it being like a kitchen sink. It could be a thoughtful palette, you know?

Morton calls himself a “purist.” His favored topping is pepperoni.

D’Allesandro is of a similar mindset: “Everybody likes something different,” he said. ”But I think people put too many toppings on their pizzas, and it weighs it down. I think less toppings is better.”

But with that, D’Allesandro offered this qualifier: “Since I own a place, my favorite pizzas are the ones that get messed up. I don’t know what it is. Sometimes you just walk in and there’s a pizza sitting there that got messed up, and there’s just something about it.”

So how do you ultimately know if a pizza spot is legit?

Tim Morton of Jimenez suggested a test.

Frannie and the Fox “The sign of somewhere that throws pies daily in does pizza really really well its brick oven is how good their Margherita is,” he said. “It’s their sort of ‘plain’ pizza, right? It’s in its most simple form, you know, little basil, tomato, sauce, cheese. Perfect.”

Rūta Smith

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goat.sheep.cow. owners Patty Floersheimer and Trusi Wagner know a thing or two about charcuterie and cheese

Rūta Smith

MAKING THE CUT Enjoy a springtime picnic with to-go charcuterie and cheese platters

W

e are all desperate for sunlight after the cold winter season and it shows. If you’re planning on soaking up the sun, make sure you have a great snack on hand. At goat. sheep.cow. and Avondale Wine & Cheese, that means a pre-made cheese and charcuterie board. goat.sheep.cow.

If you’ve planned ahead for your picnic, goat.sheep.cow. has stunning charcuterie and cheese plates that you can order with at least 24 hours notice. “You can’t do that

By: Elise DeVoe kind of beautiful artwork on the fly,” said goat.sheep. cow. co-owner Patty Floersheimer. Note that these are charcuterie and cheese platters, because as Floersheimer explained, a charcuterie board in the traditional sense only includes meat. The boards we see with a combination of meats, cheeses, fruits and condiments are an Americanized version.

Floersheimer’s smallest sized platter is $60 as a full lunch for two people, or appetizers for four. The disposable wooden board it’s served on is perfect for a picnic because you don’t have to return it, and it’s easy to transport. The board includes three or four cheeses and two meats. The “perfect cheese board,” according to Floersheimer, includes a soft, semi-hard, hard and blue cheese. This creates a variety of textures, and to vary the flavor, each cheese may come from a different animal.

“If I put a soft goat, I might put a semi-hard sheep’s

milk cheese, a hard cow’s milk cheese and a blue cheese,” Floersheimer said.

For the charcuterie part of the board, one of the popular options is salami and the other meat can be either coppa or speck. “Coppa is a ‘solid muscle meat’ because it isn’t ground, while speck is a slightly smoky long strip that kind of looks like bacon,” explained Floersheimer.

The meats are then folded nicely for an elegant presentation, further accented by the addition of dried fruits and sometimes olives for a salty, briney touch.

“Always try to finish the board with dried fruit and nuts,” added Floersheimer. “Cheeses are delicious, but that’s because everything is animal fat, which sounds awful, but it’s actually wonderful. The fruit lightens it up with things like dried cherries or marcona almonds continued on page 14

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Cheese

from page 12

to finish things off and get a break from the heaviness.”

In the springtime, lighten your cheese board with goat.sheep.cow’s selection of fresh goat cheese. “Nothing is more perfect (in the spring) than ‘fleur vert,’” said Floersheimer. “It means green flower and looks like a cake. It’s beautiful. It’s this curdy, nice goat cheese that’s covered on the outside with herbs, mostly tarragon and it’s delicious with a rosé.”

Speaking of beverages, the Meeting Street location of goat.sheep.cow. offers

Avondale Wine & Cheese

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an expansive wine collection. On the flip side, if you’re looking for something caffeinated to go along with your picnic, babas on meeting recently joined forces in sharing the goat.sheep.cow. north space and is now serving coffee, tea, snacks and other café favorites. So the operations don’t compete with each other, goat.sheep.cow. no longer serves its daily sandwich at the Meeting Street location, but you can still find it at the Church Street location.

“We closed at the beginning of the pandemic, so when we reopened, it was just for retail,” said Floersheimer. “This beautiful space was sitting here going to waste, so we reached out to babas … It’s working out beautifully.”.

Rūta Smith

Cat Kincaid at Avondale Wine & Cheese can help with your board

For a more spur-of-the-moment springtime picnic, order a beautifully arranged 15-item to-go platter from Avondale Wine & Cheese with a few clicks on its website. Choose from an assortment of meat, cheese, condiments and accouterments, some of which are made in house.

“We’ve had Gorgonzola-stuffed dates wrapped in prosciutto on our menu since continued on page 16

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16 || DISH || Spring 2022

Cheese

from page 14

we opened,” said co-owner Cat Kincaid.

“Those are really good and different. We heat them up just a little bit so the cheese is slightly melted.”.

Another housemade item that Kincaid recommends for your platter is the duck rillette, an herb-infused, spreadable, confit-style pulled duck. Every board comes with a baguette from Normandy Farm Artisan Bakery.

“A good pairing would be duck rillette with blue cheese and fig jam. It would make a great build-your-own crostini,” added Kincaid.

When choosing meats for your board, Kincaid explained that prosciutto is definitely a crowd favorite, but for those who don’t eat pork or have allergies, bresaola is a great option. It’s made from 100% beef tenderloin and adds a different flavor profile to the board.

To add a Southern twist, Wine & Cheese offers homemade pimento cheese, which is Kincaid’s grandmother’s recipe. “I’m from Charleston; my granny is from Charleston, so it’s a Southern style recipe,” Kincaid said. “I never had it

Enjoy a spread at Avondale Wine & Cheese off Savannah Hwy, or take one to-go to enjoy at a park

written down, I learned how to make it at their house and I had to write a recipe for it here, which was kind of difficult because I was used to throwing stuff together. I added pickled jalapenos to make it a little bit different.”

When you’re deciding how many items you should get for your group, Kincaid explained that four items is a good sized lunch for one person while 15 items can feed four to six, depending on hunger level.

If you really fall in love with an item (like the pimento cheese) you can order all of the items by the ounce or pound, so you can either make your own charcuterie board at home or just dive in with a spoon.

If you’d rather enjoy a springtime afternoon on Avondale Wine & Cheese’s patio, stop by on a Saturday to enjoy a rosé tasting along with your snacks. If you want to kick off the weekend a little early, the shop now offers lunch with assorted sandwiches and salads starting at noon, Thursday through Saturday.

Enjoy a glass of wine with your meal or explore the retail section to find a bottle or choose from a variety of local beers.

Rūta Smith

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18 || DISH || Spring 2022

Some like it

RAW Where to find a fresh sushi roll in the Lowcountry

By Michael Pham Seafood is pretty much at the heart of Lowcountry cooking.

She-crab soup, fried flounder, frogmore stew, deviled crabs, crab cakes, shrimp and grits and fire-steamed oysters are just a few of the local marine wildlife dishes that grace our tables.

But the Lowcountry’s cuisine is ever expanding, offering an abundance of international seafood. This is most evidenced by the local abundance of sushi. A traditional Japanese dish, sushi originated on the other side of the world, but it has become beloved amongst Charlestonians.

“Sushi has been such a thing on the global stage for so long, and it’s always been an option in Charleston, but now there’s just so many people moving down from other places,” said Chris Schoedler of Sushi-Wa Izakaya. “We see a lot of people from New York moving down here and they’re kind of looking for something to remind them of home.”

Sushi rolls are the perfect snack for an on-the-go meal or paired with edamame, a ginger salad and a Kirin Ichiban or

Pair Mei Thai’s North Charleston or Fire roll with Filipino and Thai cuisine Photos by Rūta Smith

Sit at the chef’s counter at Fuji to watch sushi rolls be made right before your eyes

warm sake to create a relaxing lunch or dinner with old friends.

Here’s where to find sushi of all shapes, sizes and textures in the Lowcountry, spanning from the downtown peninsula to the furthest reaches of Summerville.

Note, this list is not exhaustive, but if you can’t fulfill a craving from what follows, we can’t help you.

Downtown 167 Sushi Bar Moderate 289 East Bay St. (843) 625-3031 167raw.com/charleston-sushi-bar/ Open Mon. to Sat. lunch and dinner

167 is an intimate little spot with only 24 seats offering daily nigiri, sashimi and futomaki rolls and an array of unique hot items from the “izakaya” side of the menu.

O-Ku’s Playboy Roll is but one of many custom creations

FishBowl Inexpensive 433 King St. (843) 640-3925 pokestopchs.com/fishbowl Open daily lunch and dinner

Fuji Expensive 585 King St. (843) 459-2888 Fujicharleston.com Open daily lunch and dinner

Hokkaido Sushi & Hibachi

plate of tataki or their most excellent scallop crudo.

SHIKI Expensive 334 East Bay St. (843) 720-8568 Shikicharleston.com

James Island/ Folly Beach James Island Fire Grill Hibachi Sushi

Moderate

Open Monday to Friday lunch and dinner,

Moderate

99 Westedge St., Ste. 1600 (843) 501-7296

Saturday dinner

1411 Folly Road. (843) 501-7771

Hokkaidocharleston.net Open Tuesday to Sunday lunch and dinner

Kanji Inexpensive 1300 Savannah Hwy, Unit 1. (843) 766-6669 Kanjicharleston.com Open daily lunch and dinner

MESU Expensive 570 King St. (843) 438-6640 Mesuchs.com Open daily dinner and late night

Expensive 463 King St. (843) 737-0112

Inexpensive 306 King St. (843) 764-3636 Open daily lunch and dinner

Sushi-Wa Izakaya Expensive 1503 King St. (843) 735-8633 Open Wednesday to Sunday dinner

Sushi-Wa isn’t the typical sushi joint in Charleston. Offering only nigiri omakase-style dining, guests can get tastes of more fresh seafood than the standard tuna or salmon, like sea urchin, mackerel or Kagoshima A5 wagyu beef.

Wasabi

O-kusushi.com

Expensive

Open daily dinner

1121 Oakland Market St., Ste. P

This longtime favorite spot helped revive the dining scene on Upper King Street and is well worth a stop for a

(843) 284-8337 Open Tuesday to Sunday lunch and dinner

Jamesislandfiregrill.com Open daily lunch and dinner

Jiang’s Asian Kitchen Moderate 520 Folly Road. (843) 406-0508 Jiangsasiankitchen.com Open daily lunch and dinner

Kanji Inexpensive 807 Folly Road. (843) 779-6888 kanjisushihibachi.com Open daily lunch and dinner

Snapper Jack’s Moderate 10 Center St., (854) 800-4048 snapperjacks.net Open Thursday to Sunday lunch and dinner

This Folly Beach favorite seafood-heavy

Snack on 167 Sushi Bar’s tuna carpaccio as an appetizer before continued on page 20 the main sushi course

charlestoncitypaper.com || 19

O-Ku

Sushi 101 on King

20 || DISH || Spring 2022

Raw

Wasabi Japanese Steakhouse

from page 19

bar also offers a full sushi menu. The Folly Roll holds tempura lobster, avocado, crab and cream cheese. Topped with filet mignon, wasabi sauce, spicy mayo, sriracha and green onions.

Moderate 202 Berkeley Cir. (843) 821-9292 Wasabiofsummerville.com Open daily lunch and dinner

West Ashley

Mt. Pleasant Daniel Island

Bushido Moderate 1975 Magwood Dr. (843) 573-2440

Fuji

Order.bushidojapaneserestaurant.com Open daily lunch and dinner

Expensive 644 Long Point Road. (843) 856-5798

Ginza Japanese Grill

2114 Hwy 41, Unit 100. (843) 631-1448 Fujicharleston.com

Inexpensive

Open daily lunch and dinner

946 Orleans Rd. #G1. (843) 297-4199 Ginzagrillmenu.com

Kanji

Rūta Smith

Inexpensive

Enjoy sports and sushi at Locals in West Ashley and Mount Pleasant

1039 Johnnie Dodds Blvd., Unit 11 (843) 888-8898 Fujicharleston.com

sushi place, enjoy a cold beer and some sports on TV with your roll.

Open daily lunch and dinner

Kanpai

Wasabi

Moderate 1035 Johnnie Dodds Blvd., Ste. B-9

Moderate

(843) 388-8001

194 Seven Farms Drive (843) 388-8828

Kanpai-japanese-restaurant.business.site

Wasabirestaurantgroup.com

Open Tuesday to Saturday dinner

Open Monday to Friday lunch and dinner, Saturday dinner

Locals Moderate 1150 Queensborough Blvd., Ste. B. (843) 388-5114 Localssushi.com Open daily lunch and dinner

Mix a bar with some experimental sushi and you have Locals. A different type of

North Charleston Ginza Japanese Grill

Open daily lunch and dinner

Summerville Bushido Moderate 9730 Dorchester Rd. Unit 106-107. (843) 695-8777 Bushidosummerville.com Open daily lunch and dinner

Fuji 501 Front St. (843) 879-9555 Open daily lunch and dinner

1211 North Main St. B. (843) 900-5854 Fujucharleston.com

Meithaicharleston.com

Open daily lunch and dinner

7620 Rivers Ave. #330. (843) 572-2818 4948 Center Pointe Drive #105. (843) 554-7544 Seasonsofjapan.com Open daily lunch and dinner

Inexpensive 1716 Old Towne Road, (843) 641-0066 Ichibancharleston.com Open daily lunch and dinner

Ichiban is a great choice for lunch, with affordable lunch deals such as its Maki B, offering spicy crab, spicy tuna and spicy salmon rolls for less than $15. Or, if you’re feeling dinner with a loved one, grab a sushi boat.

Inexpensive

7685 Northwoods Blvd. (843) 824-8887

Inexpensive

Ichiban Steak House & Asian Fusion

Kanji

Inexpensive

Seasons of Japan

Celebrate and shout “kanpai” (cheers in Japanese) at Kanpai

Open Tuesday to Sunday dinner

Tasteoftokyosc.com

Ginzagrillmenu.com

Mei Thai has a lot to offer besides just sushi. Get a taste of authentic Filipino and Thai cuisine in addition to sushi rolls.

688 Citadel Haven Dr. (843) 571-6025 Hachiyakyoto.com

Expensive

Open Monday to Saturday lunch and dinner

Moderate

3032 W Montague Ave. #204. (843) 566-5200

5647 Rivers Ave. (803) 774-4745

Mei Thai

Hachiya Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi Bar

Inexpensive

Inexpensive

Open daily lunch and dinner

Paul Cheney

Taste of Tokyo

Open daily lunch and dinner

Sushi 201 Moderate 103 S. Main St. (843) 285-5357 Sushi201.menufy.com Open daily lunch and dinner

It’s a little further out if you’re coming from the peninsula, but it’s worth the trip. Sushi 201 keeps it rolling with an expansive menu and quality rolls at affordable prices.

Rūta Smith

Take a break in West Ashley at Zen Asian Fusion and snag a Black Angel Roll

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VOTED BEST WATERFRONT DINING

Rūta Smith

Change up the sushi roll routine with fresh nigiri from SHIKI (above)

King’s Sushi Inexpensive 1119 Wappoo Road #H. (843) 737-5211 Open daily lunch and dinner

All you can eat sushi at an affordable price for quality rolls. Need I say more?

Kobe Grill Inexpensive 1836 Ashley River Road #O. (843) 297-8097 Kobegrillsc.com Open daily lunch and dinner

Locals Moderate 1690 Olde Towne Road. (843) 763-3908 Localssushi.com

Jonathan Boncek

Open daily lunch and dinner

Osaka Asian Bistro Inexpensivce

Vibe with MESU and its Mexican and Japanese fusion-style rolls every night

BRUNCH LUNCH DINNER

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100 Folly Road. (843) 852-9979 Osakacharlestonsc.com

Poke Burri Moderate 835 Savannah Hwy. (843) 887-8744

not the ones you’re used to. The sushi burrito, you’ve perhaps heard of, but what about a sushi donut?

Zen Asian Fusion

Pokeburri.com

Expensive

Open daily Tuesday to Saturday lunch and dinner

2037 Sam Rittenberg Blvd. (843) 766–6331

Though ‘poke’ is in its name, Poke Burri also offers a selection of sushi rolls, just

Zenasianrestaurant.com Open daily lunch and dinner

843-722-8100

186 CONCORD ST.

FLEETLANDING.NET

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Open daily lunch and dinner

22 || DISH || Spring 2022

Rūta Smith file photo

Tingly beef noodle soup at Kwei Fei

Our go-to restaurants for everything from decadent to down-home fare Picking the 50 best restaurants in the Charlston area is no easy task. In fact, in a famed food town like ours, it’s a pretty hefty challenge. We not only have world-class establishments across the whole Charleston area, we’ve seen dozens of restaurants — including some iconic ones — close their kitchens for good in the past couple of years. Meanwhile, plenty of newcomers have joined the fold. Thus, what follows in our Spring Dish Top 50 is a rundown that continues to evolve along with The Holy City. This list isn’t about price or location, but about an establishment’s dedication to creating a memorable dining experience through authenticity, quality and care put onto the plate. When our friends, family, acquaintances or folks “from off” seek our guidance on dining enlightenment, these are the spots we don’t hesitate to recommend.

The list is organized in alphabetical order.

167 Raw SEAFOOD

Moderate Downtown. 193 King St. (843) 579-4997 167raw.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

CAFE

Moderate Downtown. 11 Cannon St. (843) 284-6260 Downtown. 804 Meeting St. babasoncannon.com Serving Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner (Tues.Sun.)

babas on Cannon is one of those places that truly does everything well. It’s more impressive still when you glance at their expansive daily menu. There’s strong espresso, baked goods, avocado toast, salads and sandwiches during the day followed by small bites and aperitifs later at night. Nearly everything is housemade — from peanut milk to banana bread topped with flakey sea salt — and the ingredients are always local. Want to get in and out quickly? Babas has its own app for easy online ordering. If you’re staying awhile, you’ll find it to be the type of place where the employees want to know your name and remember your order. babas’ ability to maintain that comfortable neighborhood vibe while keeping customers’ expectations front of mind is truly a work of art. With a welcoming space and the food to match, babas on Cannon delivers on its promise of as a new-school old-world European cafe. Check them out at the new location on Meeting Street, sharing space with goat.sheep.cow.north —Parker Milner

Bacco ITALIAN

Moderate Mount Pleasant. 976 Houston Northcutt Blvd.

(843) 884-6969 baccocharleston.com Serving Lunch (Tues.-Fri.), Dinner (Tues.–Sat.)

For more than a dozen years, Mount Pleasant’s Bacco has successfully pulled off the idea of that fabled “neighborhood Italian place” you hear about in other cities: small, friendly service with straightforward Southern Italian food that creates regulars out of customers.

Start your meal with the fire-roasted olives, warm multi-varietal and multitextured olives straight out

continued on page 24

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S R E T S Y O

BOWEN’S ISLAND RESTAURANT Whether you’re a first-time guest or a long-time regular, our aim is to serve you simple, excellent seafood. Just 5 minutes from Folly Beach, we’re famous for our locally harvested oysters, fried shrimp, hushpuppies, Frogmore stew, cold beer, and undisturbed views of the river, marshes, islands, and wildlife.

1870 BOWENS ISLAND RD • 843.795.2757 TUE - SAT, 4:30-9:30PM • BOWENSISLAND.COM

BOWENS ISLAND RESTAURANT

charlestoncitypaper.com || 23

Surrounded by high-end boutiques, swanky inns, antique stores and art galleries, 167 Raw’s new King Street home sits along a quiet stretch of storefronts.

But fear not, they’re still boasting the same lineup of New England bivalves and “lobstah” rolls that were muchlauded at their original (teeny) East Bay spot. The first floor of the ever-socharming 19th century building is long and narrow, with original brick walls and a new walnut bar. Bar vet Teddy Nixon is behind the long bar, shaking up the good stuff, while owners Jesse Sandole and Harrison-Panes, donning matching aqua hues, greet regulars at the door. Even with four times (at least) as much seating as their original space, 167 Raw gets packed. Arrive early to tuck into your 10-hour carnitas taco and tuna burger. —Mary Scott Hardaway

babas on Cannon, babas on Meeting

DID SOMEONE SAY

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Top 50 Top 50 from page 23

of the wood burning oven. The Italian focused cocktail menu is no slouch with a barrel-aged negroni and the Ficcho Bello, a fizzy drink with fig infused vodka with rosemary and cherry bitters.

The primi course is where chef Michael Scognamiglio shines. The gnocchi bolognese are little airy pillows tossed in meaty bolognese and the pappardelle al telefono is house-made pasta in a bed of tomato basil sauce and mozzarella. If you’ve made it this far the secondi course serves dishes like beefy tomato and red wine braised meatballs with polenta, an Italian take on chicken cordon bleu and sausage and peppers that would make your Nona proud. —Robert Donovan

Basic Kitchen CAFE

Steve Freihon

Basic Kitchen’s market fish comes served with local fish, golden beets, horseradish yogurt and Heron farms sea beans

Moderate Downtown. 82 Wentworth St. (843) 789-4568 basickitchen.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Weekend Brunch

In a city filled with hearty Southern

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Our go-to restaurant list

cuisine, sometimes it’s tricky to find a flavorful, light meal. Not so at Basic Kitchen according to co-owner Ben Towill, that has been exactly the goal since opening the restaurant with his wife Kate in 2017.

“We want to provide massive flavor and a meal that’s hearty but still feels light.”

Since taking over as Basic Kitchen executive chef in July 2019, Robin Hollis has homed in on this mission by creating more wholesome dishes that highlight vegetables from local purveyors. BK’s lunch menu is divided into small plates, bowls, salads, sandwiches and sweets.

As for dinner selections, Towill says, “We wanted to narrow our focus by adding more classical entrees, and Nathan Wentworth has enhanced our wine program by making it all natural, biodynamic wines.” —Parker Milner

purple trim and a line stretching out the door. The Southern soul food platters here are so tasty, generous and inexpensive, that the line starts forming well before they open for lunch. Businessmen, laborers and far-flung tourists alike shuffle through the quick cafeteria-style service counter loaded with a smorgasbord of meat and threes, such as fried pork chops, fish specials, yams, stewed greens, home-style mac-and-cheese, limas nestled with smoked turkey necks, dark roux okra soup, moist cornbread and fried chicken better than anyone’s Grandma ever made. Though it was still open at time of printing, Bertha’s building recently went up for lease. There are reported plans for a new location, but you’d do well to feast on the original goodness now. —Allston McCrady

Bertha’s Kitchen

Bistronomy by Nico

SOUL FOOD

FRENCH

Inexpensive Downtown. 2332 Meeting Street Road.

(843) 554-6519 Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Fri.)

Head up Meeting Street until you see a two-story robin’s egg blue building with

Expensive Downtown. 64 Spring St. (843) 410-6221 bistronomybynico.com

Serving Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch One month after getting the keys to 64 Spring St., Bistronomy by Nico co-

owners Nico Romo and Dominique Chantepie opened the French bistro after revamping the space previously occupied by Josephine Wine Bar. Since opening in November 2020, Bistronomy has served playful plates like escargot rice dumplings, goat cheese spring rolls and lobster with candied ginger in a setting reminiscent of a Parisian bistro. The cuisine mirrors the vibrant atmosphere and draws on celebrated dishes from Romo’s 10 years at Fish, which closed in 2017 after 17 years on King Street. Romo calls Bistronomy’s menu approachable French cuisine with an Asian fusion twist. “There were a lot of dishes and food I was doing like the duck steam bun that I had,” Romo told the Charleston City Paper. “I had a big following then for that food, which I do not do at NICO, which is more flat classic French with an oyster bar.” Look for those duck steamed buns, tuna tartare with shrimp “chips” and a tomato and panko-fried mozzarella salad in the small plates section, while the entrees consist of plates like truffle chicken, cassoulet and scallops with coconut rice, all under $30. If you want to sample Romo’s fare in Mount Pleasant,

his original bistro NICO sits right off of Shem Creek. —Parker Milner

Bowens Island Restaurant SEAFOOD

Moderate James Island. 1870 Bowens Island Road.

(843) 795-2757 bowensisland.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Don’t expect white tablecloth and maitre d' service at Bowens Island. It’s famously no frills, but it’s worth it. The nightly crowds are a testament to the family fish camp. Since its founding in 1946 it’s grown from a grimy, albeit quaint, cinderblock outpost to a pluff-mud pantheon that offers up damn good fried seafood, hushpuppies and cold local beer in its upstairs dining room. Follow your nose downstairs and elbow-out yourself a space at the all-you-can-eat oyster tables and slurp down tasty local oysters by the shovelful that were likely pulled off the marsh that day. Oyster season or not, we have a hard time passing up the Frogmore Stew, a pot full of potatoes, continued on page 26

654 KING STREET

THE FUTURE IS VEGA N

843.640.3902

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L I F E SAVI NG FOOD & COCKTAI LS

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Top 50 Top 50 from page 25

sausage, corn on the cob and shrimp steamed together as God intended it.

—Sam Spence

Butcher & Bee MEDITERRANEAN

Moderate Downtown. 1085 Morrison Drive.

(843) 619-0202 butcherandbee.com Serving Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

Rūta Smith file photo

Though the rainbow trout (pictured) isn’t available anymore, Chubby Fish changes it’s menu frequently with sustainable seafood

Going on four years since it moved to a bright, sunny building on Morrison Drive, Butcher & Bee is an elevated restaurant that belies its hipster hangout roots in its old dark, tiny space on Upper King Street. B&B’s menu features a large range of dishes with everything from falafel to decadent burgers to carefully crafted fresh seafood and veggie-forward dishes. An excellent feature present on the menu for brunch, lunch and dinner is B&B’s mezze selection, a collection of small plates with a Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influence. It’s safe to say that pretty much anything you order

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Our go-to restaurant list

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Charleston Grill MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive Downtown. 224 King St. (843) 577-4522 charlestongrill.com Serving Dinner (daily)

Amid ever-shifting culinary fashions, Charleston Grill has remained one of the city’s crown jewels by delivering a consistently flawless dining experience.

Executive chef Michelle Weaver’s dishes can be decadently lush, like her beef tenderloin with bourguignon sauce or seared foie gras, spiked with pineapple rum and cashew-coconut granola. The dishes are balanced, ingredient-centric creations, like a delicate charred octopus tossed with chorizo croquettes, served with smooth adobo aioli, while contemporary spins on Southern cuisine are bold and satisfying. The best way to experience the full sweep of the cuisine is to pick out items from each section of Weaver’s menu and sit back to enjoy the house jazz band tucked in the corner.

—Robert F. Moss

Chez Nous FRENCH

Expensive Downtown. 6 Payne Court. (843) 579-3060 cheznouschs.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.), Sun. Brunch

Most mornings before lunch, the Chez Nous Instagram feed (@cheznouscharleston) features a picture of the day’s menu, handwritten in black ink on a small white card in executive chef Jill Mathias’ eccentric and highly stylized script. Next comes a separate picture of each and every dish being served that day, taken from above in flawless light.

Admittedly, it’s only seven pictures total, since Chez Nous serves just two starters, two entrees and two desserts, and the selection changes daily. The setting is charmingly old and the cuisine European-inspired, but it’s hardly a throwback to an older mode of dining.

Chez Nous stands alone just as it is, an eccentric outlier. With such a dynamic menu, any review of Chez Nous is by necessity a fleeting snapshot. On my last visit each of the courses balanced a dark, heavier dish with a brighter fish-based

option, and each was splendid, though in very different ways. —Robert F. Moss

Chubby Fish SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 252 Coming St. (843) 222-3949 chubbyfishcharleston.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Executive chef James London serves a hyper-local, daily changing menu at this vibrant Coming Street restaurant.

And while the fish selection may vary, London is known for a few signature preparations. Expect raw oysters, crudos and likely one small plate that incorporates caviar, along with heartier options like king mackerel curry, crab tagliatelle and lamb ribs. We recommend ordering several dishes and sharing with the group before finishing off with sweets from Life Raft Treats’ Cynthia Wong, who supplies Chubby Fish with dessert.

Chubby Fish doesn’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the wait for one of 30 or so seats inside a restaurant that prides itself on turning under utilized types of fish into dishes you’ll crave for weeks. —Parker Milner

Coda del Pesce ITALIAN/SEAFOOD

Expensive Isle of Palms. 1130 Ocean Blvd.

(843) 242-8570 codadelpesce.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

With Coda del Pesce, chef/owner Ken Vedrinski of longtime downtown mainstay Trattoria Lucca headed out to Isle of Palms to create a beachside Italian seafood restaurant. The beautiful secondstory dining room has brick walls, reclaimed wood floors and, in a rarity for the Lowcountry, floor-to-ceiling windows offering a lovely view of the Atlantic. It’s an ideal setting for Vedrinski’s signature high-end Italian fare, which offers plenty of bright flavors and unexpected twists.

Masterful pasta anchors the primi selection, which includes ricotta gnudi tossed with house-made duck Italian sausage in tomato sugo. The secondi highlights fresh fish like swordfish and there’s a little heavier fare, too, like naturally raised veal “marsala.” Pair any of these with an Italian wine from the impressive list, and continued on page 28

SERVICES

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Top 50 Top 50 from page 27

Dave’s Carry-Out SOUL FOOD/SEAFOOD

you’ll have one splendid fish tale to share with friends. —Robert F. Moss

Daps Breakfast & Imbibe BREAKFAST/BRUNCH

Inexpensive Downtown. 280 Ashley Ave. (843) 718-1098 dapsbreakfast.com Serving Breakfast, Brunch (Thurs.-Tues.)

Breakfast fanatics have found a home at Daps Breakfast & Imbibe, where owners Nick Dowling and Jeremiah Schenzel serve sandwiches, daily specials and whimsical plates like Fruity Pebble pancakes or Cinnamon Toast Crunch sticky buns. But don’t be fooled by the duo’s unorthodox take on the morning meal — each composed plate has a local touch, whether its pork from Holy City Hogs or eggs from Fili-West Farms. The fun-loving atmosphere is the perfect summertime escape, as patrons sip Daps’ canned mimosas on the patio while sinking into the sorghum mayo-topped chickpea sandwich, patty melt or spicy West Coast-style breakfast burrito.

—Parker Milner

Inexpensive Downtown. 42-C Morris St. (843) 577-7943 facebook.com/Daves-Carry-Out111720082197029/ Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This soul food joint offers a true taste of Charleston. For under $10 you can get a takeout box filled to the brim with the best of Lowcountry cooking like pork chops, crispy chicken wings and fingerlickin’ ribs. The selection of sides is small but tasty — try the lima beans, thick steak fries, or rice. The lunch specials change daily, but your best bet is to go with a seafood platter — they range from $10 for a generous portion of shrimp to $20 for shrimp, fish, scallops and deviled crab. If you want a true local experience, opt for the lima beans and rice. It’s meaty and filling. A few tables allow customers to dine in, but most folks get their Dave’s to-go, whether for lunch or a greasy latenight snack. —Melissa Tunstall

Delaney Oyster House SEAFOOD

Edmund’s Oast MODERN AMERICAN

Moderate Downtown. 115 Calhoun St. (843) 594-0099. delaneyoysterhouse.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

The Neighborhood Dining Group — owners of Husk — have converted an old single house on Calhoun Street into a stunner of a seafood restaurant.

The raw bar offerings range from local oysters and clams to hackleback caviar, and executive chef Shamil Velazquez’s inventive small plates are stylish and intensely flavored. Menus have featured rich kombu-poached lobster tossed with orbs of tangy Asian pear, ground peanuts and green Thai basil leaves, while a deconstructed chowder delivers tender clams, mussels, shrimp and a flawless peach-hued scallop within a pool of creamy, savory broth. Each dish is finished with precise visual style that befits the picture-perfect setting. Grab a seat out on the second floor piazza, order a glass of chilled red wine and dive in.

—Robert F. Moss

Expensive Downtown. 1081 Morrison Drive.

(843) 727-1145 edmundsoast.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Sun. Brunch

This hip gastropub has a laid-back vibe.

There are communal tables, as well as a chef’s counter and an expansive outdoor patio. Chef Bob Cook’s menu highlights include the house-made charcuterie and cheese plates, plus upscale bar food like fried tripe, hanger steak or crispy chicken with green curry sauce. The drink menu is every bit as compelling, rife with small batch cocktails, meads and a host of inventive beers brewed on-site. And happy hour in The Bower when the weather’s nice, well, the price and vibes cannot be beat. —Vanessa Wolf

Estadio TAPAS

Moderate Downtown. 122 Spring St. estadio-chs.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

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Our go-to restaurant list

in October 2019, is technically the second outpost of a successful Washington, D.C., Spanish-style bar and tapas restaurant.

The decor and the deep sherry and gin selection echo the D.C. original, but executive chef Alex Lira’s impressive menu is unique to Charleston. The pintxos and tapas — grilled shrimp on skewers, crisp patatas bravas, tuna-topped “seven minute” eggs — offer beguiling little bites.

Fresh local shellfish and savory sofritoand saffron-laced rice — especially the crispy bits charred to the edges of the flat metal cooking pan — transform the seafood paella into an unforgettable treat. With a slate of sherry cocktails, “gin tonics” made with rare Spanish brands and porróns of wine, Estadio brings a brilliant taste of Spain to the heart of downtown Charleston. —Robert F. Moss

EVO

dients is key, and they’ve been keeping it local from the very beginning, back when they were a mobile wood-fired oven serving pizza at the farmers market in Marion Square. Large chalkboards decorate the walls, listing local ingredients from various farms, along with daily specials, ranging from house-made sausages to duck crostini. But we’re partial to the pizza.

The crust is thin and slightly charred, and the mozzarella is made fresh and pulled in-house twice a day. The pistachio pesto pie was named one of the best pizzas in the country by Food Network Magazine, and the sinful Pork Trifecta keeps customers coming back. Check out the beer list for what’s on tap, and you’ll find plenty of local brews to keep your inner beer snob happy. —Kinsey Gidick

GENE’S HAUFBRAU 1952

Starting out as a lunch counter and eventually adding a bar, Gene’s offered a full draft list making it a great ale house.

Today, we still honor the early menu with our daily Blue Plate Specials and offer the MOST variety and style of BEER.

PIZZA

Inexpensive North Charleston. 1075 E. Montague Ave. (843) 225-1796 evopizza.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

At EVO, the use of fresh, local ingre-

West Ashley - 817 Savannah Hwy. | 843-225-GENE | Genes.Beer continued on page 30

NOW OPEN

171 E Bay St, Charleston

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M-F: 7:30am-2pm, Sa-Su: 7:30am-3pm

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Top 50

Andrew Cebulka

Share Lewis Barbecue’s brisket nachos with a friend or eat it all by yoursef Top 50 from page 29

Fiery Ron’s Home Team BBQ BARBECUE

Moderate West Ashley. 1205 Ashley River Road.

(843) 225-7427 Downtown. 126 Williman St. (843) 225-7427 Sullivan’s Island. 2209 Middle St. (843) 225-7427 hometeambbq.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

With three Charleston locations plus one in Columbia and another way out in Aspen, Colorado, pitmaster/chefs Aaron Siegel and Taylor Garrigan have built an acclaimed barbecue empire. Whether

you’re at the West Ashley original or at the newer outposts on Sullivan’s Island or downtown, the barbecue offering is anchored by pulled pork, smoked chicken, ribs and a superb salt-andpepper brisket, all cooked over wood on offset metal pits. Siegel’s and Garrigan’s fine-dining roots show in an array of creative snacks and tacos, like chopped brisket sliders on brioche buns and smoked shrimp tacos with white bean puree. There’s always a cheffy special or two, like pulled pork empanadas or a pit-smoked pork chop with purple cabbage and apple, and don’t miss out on Home Team’s smoked chicken wings with tangy white Alabama-style sauce.

—Robert F. Moss

Our go-to restaurant list

FIG MODERN AMERICAN

Very Expensive Downtown. 232 Meeting St. (843) 805-5900 eatatfig.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

In 2003, chef Mike Lata set out to prove that ‘food is good.’ After blazing a trail for the robust local farm-totable restaurant scene, FIG still stands out, winning awards and creating devotees year after year. Although snagging a reservation can be a challenge, the seasonally inspired cuisine and impeccable service are worth the effort. Change is a constant, but stalwart menu standbys like the fish stew provencal and pillowy ricotta gnocchi alla Bolognese never fail to satisfy. Be sure to check out the wine offerings, as — along with two nods for Best Chef Southeast — FIG is also a national James Beard award-winner for Outstanding Wine Program.

—Vanessa Wolf

The Glass Onion NEW SOUTHERN

Moderate West Ashley. 1219 Savannah Hwy. (843) 225-1717 ilovetheglassonion.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Sat. Brunch

MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Downtown. 4 Cannon St. (843) 302-8825 thegrocerycharleston.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.), Sun. Brunch

Occupying a space that is at once industrial and inviting, chef/owner Kevin Johnson’s menus are seasonally inspired and passionately local.

Utilizing a mix of fresh farmed, fished and foraged ingredients, The Grocery exemplifies farm-to-table dining. The Southern/Mediterranean offerings have included such highlights as fried oysters with deviled egg sauce and bread and butter pickles. Year-round standbys include the generous portions of Lowcountry seafood pilau and the changing varieties of roasted whole fish, cooked in the restaurant’s massive wood-burning oven. Along with a celebrated Sunday brunch, The Grocery’s innovative cocktail program features standouts like the dirty green tomato, a martini made with pickled green tomato juice. —Vanessa Wolf

Try a few of our new buzzzzy spring /summer specialty drinks!

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Made with quality herbal-infused liquors, fresh herbs & fruit juices.

Husk Restaurant NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive Downtown. 76 Queen St. (843) 577-2500 huskrestaurant.com Serving Lunch (Mon.-Sat.), Dinner (daily), Sun. Brunch

Husk has outposts in Nashville, Greenville and Savannah, but this location — housed in a white mansion on Queen Street — is the original. Here, executive chef Travis Grimes carries out the vision of innovative, modern farm-to-table perfection. The kitchen creates such must-try marvels with a frequently changing menu like Southern fried chicken skins, ‘Kentuckyaki’ pigs ear lettuce wraps, or the hulking Carolina heritage pork chop, while dessert offerings include such innovations as the savory-sweet cornbread pudding.

There’s a welcoming, rustic atmosphere indoors, but if weather permits, sit out on the upstairs porch and enjoy what is, without hesitation, Southern food at its best. —Vanessa Wolf

Starts @ 11am

Big plates of southern goodness like our Shrimp & Grits!

Enjoy dining on our outdoor patio, or watching the sun go down at either of our two outdoor bars.

Muddy’s Dock Bar

Open Every Day Drink Specials & Music Shem Creek – 1313 Shrimp Boat Lane (843) 844-4440 • VickerysSC.com

continued on page 33

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Since 2008, the Glass Onion has exemplified the “neighborhood favorite” category — a restaurant less formal and ambitious than a fine dining spot but still delivering seriously delicious meals. The offering blends the home cooking of chef/owner Chris Stewart’s native Alabama with dishes and styles he absorbed while working in fine dining kitchens first in New Orleans and then in Charleston. That means hearty, savory gumbo brimming with okra and sausage, Cajun boudin balls with Creole mustard and crisp okra beignets served with spicy red remoulade. Pristine local seafood makes for fresh, satisfying plates, like pan-roasted flounder served over tender braised beans and thick mashed potatoes. A few more adventurous entrees, like a beguilingly dark rabbit ragout with ricotta gnocchi, pop up with regularity alongside hearty Southern classics like shrimp and grits and fried catfish with red rice. It’s a surefire formula for a satisfying meal.

—Robert F. Moss

The Grocery

32 || DISH || Spring 2022

Top 50 Top 50 from page 31

Jackrabbit Filly CHINESE

Moderate North Charleston. 4628 Spruill Ave. (843) 460-0037 jackrabbitfilly.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Wed.-Sat.), Sun. Brunch

The menu at Jackrabbit Filly — Shuai and Corrie Wang’s brick-and-mortar jump from their popular Short Grain food truck — takes quintessential Asian fare, and adds some vamp. The pork and cabbage dumplings are where Yangtze meets Ganges, with a rich mix of pork, cabbage, ginger and coriander encased inside the perfectly cooked pasta wrapper. Topped with a pungent chinkiang vinegar and Lao Gan Ma chili crisp sauce, the first bite is like suddenly finding something in life you hadn’t even realized was missing. Short Grain’s beloved karaage endures — the meat is juicy, the coating crunchy, and the drizzle of lemon mayo and ponzu, along with some togarashi-induced heat, should be presented with the following disclaimer:

“The karaage is a small structure made of chicken. It is delicious, and you are not ready for it.” While no World Famous Jackrabbit Filly twist contest exists (yet), a similar, multi-tiered, two-foot tall trophy sounds about right. Grab some friends, share the love and share it hard.

—Vanessa Wolf

Kwei Fei CHINESE

Moderate James Island. 1977 Maybank Hwy. (843) 225-0094 kweifei.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Set next door to Charleston Pour House in the space previously occupied by The Lot, Kwei Fei’s interior looks the sameish, except now the chairs are yellow and you’ll find some Asian knick knacks scattered about. But the updates are the only understated thing about Kwei Fei. Pretty much nothing else — from the food to the music to the chef himself — can be described as subtle. Kwei Fei’s menu is an equally wild ride, offering an array of appetizers, entrees and veggiebased sides sorted into blocks labeled

“Loud,” “Hot” and “Vibes.” The crescent dumplings are an outstanding way to give your tastebuds a crash course in the events to come. Made with ground pork and redolent Sichuan pepper, the five plump dumplings are served in a soybased, vinegary sauce and topped with fresh cilantro and chives. Hot, sour, salty, sweet: everyone’s here. On the “vibes” side of things, vegetarians are well-taken care of with the dry-fried green beans.

Here some rice makes sense and adds bulk to the delicate haricots verts, which are coated with an intense, chunky garlic and ginger combo with a little spicy kick.

But of course. —Vanessa Wolf

Le Farfalle ITALIAN

Expensive Downtown. 15 Beaufain St. (843) 212-0920 lefarfallecharleston.com Serving Lunch (Mon.-Sat.), Dinner (daily), Sun. Brunch

Led by celebrated chef Michael Toscano, Le Farfalle is certain to delight. The bright, upscale space is generously laid out with an elegant bar suitable for a quick lunch of agnolotti pasta or a relaxed after-

dinner conversation over craft cocktails.

Dinner service starts with a slice from the restaurant’s ginormous wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, but matters are then in your own hands. Seasonal appetizer stand outs have included a veal tartare toast served with shoestring fries and a sublime octopus carpaccio. You can’t go wrong with the housemade pastas, and other memorable dinner selections have included a vibrant whole branzino with pine nuts and a tender fried chicken picatta. —Vanessa Wolf

Lenoir NEW SOUTHERN

Downtown. 68 Wentworth St. (843)534-9031 Dineatlenoir.com Serving Dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

Chef Vivian Howard’s first restaurants outside Eastern North Carolina opened in Charleston in the first half of 2021.

After PBS’ A Chef’s Life introduced Howard to audiences far from her first restaurant, Chef & the Farmer in Kinston, N.C., she now has two concepts open in the Wentworth-facing side of the downtown Renaissance Hotel. Handy &

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Our go-to restaurant list

Hot checks the boxes as the hotel’s quickservice lobby cafe (with the addition of snackable hand pies and knockout biscuit sandwiches), but Lenoir is where Howard will make her mark. Tables ring the cozy dining room around a central bar, and a steady stream of reinvented Southern specialties flow from the kitchen. With dishes ranging from local crudo and butterbean agnolotti to the K-town patty melt, Howard’s touch as a chef is apparent without taking things too seriously. Chef Tyson Detzler brings experience at Chef & the Farmer to Howard’s Charleston kitchen, so you know anything local and seasonal will be a good bet on your table. —Sam Spence

Leon’s Fine Poultry & Oysters SEAFOOD

Moderate Downtown. 698 King St. (843) 531-6500 leonsoystershop.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

The chargrilled oysters at Leon’s embody the restaurant’s approach to food: unfussy and delicious. The “FryUp” platter is a jumble of oysters, shrimp

and clams battered and delicately fried and served with a tartar sauce so good we sometimes just dip a fork in it in between bites. If we know anything about restaurateurs Brooks Reitz and Tim Mink, it’s that they know how to design a restaurant that both looks and feels good. This is the kind of place that gets in your regular rotation because it’s comfortable, delicious and reliable.

—Stephanie Barna

Lewis Barbecue BARBECUE

Moderate Downtown. 464 N. Nassau St. (843) 805-9500 lewisbarbecue.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

Lewis’ building houses four custom-built smokers and a sausage smoker that can cook 1,600 links at a time, all hand-built

by Lewis and his father. Once inside you’ll queue up to have meat hand-sliced by one of two meat-cutters stationed behind a long counter directing you to opposite ends. Lewis’ “life changing” beef continued on page 34

864 ISLAND PARK DR. | DANIEL ISLAND VIVATACOSTEQUILA.COM

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A V I V !

S O C A T

34 || DISH || Spring 2022

Top 50 Top 50 from page 33

brisket is definitely the star. The infinitely tender meat has a salty, peppery crust and shines with melted fat. But there’s also juicy smoked turkey, pulled pork, pork ribs and Texas sausage called “hot guts” available and priced by the pound (or hot guts by the link). After your tray is filled with your order of meats, choose your sides from mustardy potato salad, lemon slaw, cowboy beans and rich green chile corn pudding. —Robert Donovan

Maison FRENCH

Expensive Downtown. 708 King St.(843) 990-9165 maisoncharleston.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Maison shares a low, unassuming King Street building with a climbing gym, but step inside and you’ll find an immaculate invocation of a stylish French bistro.

There’s a pewter-topped bar, hexagonal white and black floor tiles and Parisianstyle bistro chairs with white and black woven backs. The menu options — escargots, steak frites au poivre, coq au vin — seem to hew to traditional bistro standards at first, but chef Vandy Vanderwarker gives each a creative, flavorful spin. The sultry coq au vin is a deconstructed delight, with long-marinated chicken that’s braised, shredded and blended with roasted ramps into an intensely flavored patty. A thick wedge of monkfish tail has a smooth, buttery bite beneath its golden brown sear, heightened by the unexpected richness of roasted chicken butter sauce. With deep, intense flavors and a playful sensibility, Maison’s daring interpretations of traditional French plates are a welcome addition to the Charleston scene.

—Robert F. Moss

Malagon TAPAS

Moderate Downtown. 33 Spring St. (843) 926-0475 malagonchs.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

E as tB

ay Deli. c o m

Even experienced tapas lovers may find themselves a bit wide-eyed at Malagon — the comprehensive menu isn’t fooling around. Rather, it gets right down to some sweet tapas tenderness, starting with familiar snacks like marcona almonds and dates wrapped in ham. The mojama (cured tuna belly) is a classic

treat. Firm and salty, it’s often referred to as the jamón of the sea. Accompanied by roughly a dozen baby potatoes, tender chunks of octopus have a silky texture similar to that of a rare scallop. The mild flavors of the two soft ingredients are dominated by the sprinkling of smoked paprika on top. Despite being ‘small plates’ and probably owing in part to all the potatoes, your meal can be surprisingly filling and notably affordable.

Malagon is not only doing something different, they’re doing it extremely well.

—Vanessa Wolf

Malika Pakistani Chai Canteen PAKISTANI

Moderate Mount Pleasant. 1333 Theater Dr. (843) 897-5727 Malikacanteen.com Serving lunch and dinner (Wed.-Sun.)

Owners Maryam Ghaznavi and Raheel Gauba have taken Charleston by storm with their authentic Pakistani comfort food. First starting out as a pop-up in 2019 as Ma’am Saab (which will be opening in the old Jestine’s Kitchen on Meeting Street later this spring), the couple introduced a new cuisine to the market, bringing to the table dishes like chicken biryani or alu gobi. When the couple opened up Malika, they expanded their flavors and brought Pakistani street food to the fold, introducing samosa chaats, aloo tikki, tikka masala and drinks like desi chai or mango lassi. No matter what you get at Malika, though, do not skip out on the masala fries. The fries are extra crispy, yet still soft when you bite into them — and they’re topped with an in-house seasoning blend of cilantro, onions and spicy ketchup. The clashing flavors, from the freshness of the cilantro to the heat of the ketchup, blend perfectly in your mouth. Eat them by the handful. No one’s judging. —Michael Pham

Melfi’s ITALIAN

Expensive Downtown. 721 King St. (843) 513-0307 eatatmelfis.com Serving Dinner (daily)

Named for the family who once ran a pharmacy in the same space, Melfi’s menu offers updated takes on Italian staples. The polished, old-school dining room is warm and buzzy, providing a

Our go-to restaurant list

A Sanctuary of Sorts

Rūta Smith file photo

Get a taste of authentic Pakistani cuisine at Malika Pakistani Chai Canteen

Nana’s Uptown SOUL FOOD

Inexpensive North Charleston. 5117 Dorchester Road.

(843) 937-9311 nanasseafoodsoul.com Serving Lunch and Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

Downtown’s Nana’s Seafood & Soul closed in 2020 after nearly two decades on Line Street, but fans of the family continued on page 36

SMOOTHIES • JUICES • BOWLS • BITES 476 Meeting St • 843.819.2823 • Order at ToastTab.com

charlestoncitypaper.com || 35

welcome backdrop to get your carbs on.

Slip into a leather booth and proceed to feast on house-made linguine tossed with crab, or “Roman-ish” pizza, like the Mr. Wally, made with vodka sauce, Fresno peppers, sliced salami and meaty henof-the-woods mushrooms. Don’t miss the delicate tuna crudo with buttery pine nuts and Calabrian chile vinaigrette.

Negroni aficionados will appreciate the choice of four innovative variations.

—Vanessa Wolf

36 || DISH || Spring 2022

Top 50 Top 50 from page 35

Oak Steakhouse STEAKHOUSE

! g n i r p S o Hell

owned and operated restaurant can still find its affordable Lowcountry fare at Nana’s Uptown, located in North Charleston at 5117 Dorchester Road. Mother and son duo Carolyn and Kenyatta McNeil’s takeout- and delivery-only outpost specializes in seafood, with options like flounder, whiting, shrimp, scallops and more. But that’s not all you’ll find at Nana’s. The chicken wings are a must as are daily specials like crab legs with garlic shrimp. For sides, expect the classics, with the baked mac n cheese and bread pudding stealing the show and don’t forget to wash it all down with Nana’s signature pineapple sweet tea. If we’ve learned anything over the past two years, it’s that high quality takeout is something that can’t be taken for granted. Nana’s Uptown delivers every time, offering the North Charleston community an affordable option serving authentic eats.

—Parker Milner

Located in a restored 150-year-old bank building, Oak is a long-running favorite for a big Charleston night out.

Hefty prime ribeyes and strips are the main attractions, with luxurious familystyle accompaniments like creamy whipped potatoes and lobster mac and cheese. Within the traditional steakhouse format there is always a twist or two, like a daily local seafood special or beef belly with sorghum barbecue sauce. The deep wine list focuses on California reds, and the service is reliably top-notch, regardless of whether you eat downstairs in the bar area, with its exposed brick walls and clubby red leather booths, or at the white clothdraped tables in the second story dining room, its high windows looking out over Broad Street. —Robert F. Moss

Neon Tiger

The Obstinate Daughter

VEGAN

Moderate Downtown. 654 King St. (843) 640-3902 neontiger.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

One of a handful of all-vegan establishments in Charleston, Neon Tiger doesn’t shy away from getting creative with its upscale offerings. The crispy konjac shrimp and trumpet mushroom calamari are two standout appetizer options for traditional seafood lovers.

For a more classic veggie-forward meal, look to main dishes like lentil ragout and veggie bowl. But, if you want to venture out and see just what the chefs at Neon Tiger can do with an all plant-based menu, opt for the reuben sandwich with seitan smoked meat or the “big buffalo chicken” sandwich that captures everything you love about a chicken sandwich — sans meat. And while you’re at it, order a pizza for the table to split like the barbecue jackfruit or formaggio and champignon.

Whether you’re vegan or just curious looking to try something new, the creativity and flavor of Neon Tiger’s menu will impress. —Samantha Connors

828 Savannah Hwy. | 843-377-1300 | trianglecharandbar.com

Expensive Downtown. 17 Broad St. (843) 722-4220 oaksteakhouserestaurant.com Serving Dinner (daily)

SEAFOOD/SOUTHERN

Moderate Sullivan’s Island. 2063 Middle St. (843) 416-5020 theobstinatedaughter.com Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

At The Obstinate Daughter, executive chef Jacques Larson’s big, open kitchen has a plancha and a woodfired oven, and he uses it to create a beguiling array of pizzas, pastas and small plates. The pizzas bear tempting toppings, like clams and roasted fennel or pork meatballs and red peppers. The dishes on the rotating “plates” menu range in size from “Geechie frites” (long strips of fried polenta) to a crispy duck with carrot farrotto, cipollini and chermoula. Fluffy ricotta gnocchi are topped with an intensely flavorful short rib ragu with tender strands of beef in a pool of reddish orange tomato-tinged jus. OD boasts a cheery, casual environment for enjoying Larson’s impressive parade of delicate but flavorful dishes.

And that makes it one of the best upscale dining destinations not just out on the beaches, but anywhere in town.

—Robert F. Moss

Our go-to restaurant list

The Ordinary SEAFOOD

Expensive Downtown. 544 King St. (843) 414-7060 eattheordinary.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

In December 2012, a historic King Street bank building found new life as an upscale oyster hall. The Ordinary — second child of Adam Nemirow and chef Mike Lata — opened with soaring 22-foot ceilings, the promise of locally sourced seafood and lots of buzz. Today such concepts are a dime a dozen (on the half-shell, please). But The Ordinary was the first of its kind, and I would argue, still the best. While regularly packed and filled with an upbeat ambiance, the high ceilings diffuse the jovial noise to a pleasant buzz. Along with six daily varieties of raw oysters on the half shell, the house-smoked oysters are not to be missed. Presented in an oil and vinegarfilled preserve jar and spiked with slices of crisp pickled celery, the six oysters are so gently smoked that they are still raw.

As a result, each is tender and juicy, the continued on page 38

Kirk Robert Chambers

Wash down Post House’s Backbar Burger with a cold brew

A Casual Mexican-Inspired Taqueria & Bar

OPEN SEVEN DAYS A WEEK | LUNCH • DINNER • HAPPY HOUR | WEEKLY SPECIALS | PATIO DINING | INDEPENDENTLY OWNED 819 COLEMAN BLVD, MT. PLEASANT | 843.388.7717 219 FARM LAKE VIEW RD, KIAWAH ISLAND | 843.737.4607 CANTINA76.COM | @CANTINA76

charlestoncitypaper.com || 37

Featuring inventive tacos, hand crafted margaritas, and an upbeat atmosphere

38 || DISH || Spring 2022

Top 50 Top 50 from page 37

delicate hint of ocean flavor touched with woodsy smoke. Served with fanciedup saltines (brushed with butter and Old Bay), rich, cold creme fraiche and vibrant hot sauce, the combination is outstanding: cool, crisp and smoky all at once. —Vanessa Wolf

How Legacies are Born Our Signature Kinsey Cake is created with layers of honey soaked chocolate, filled with whipped chocolate mousse and finished with a rich chocolate pour.

Affectionally named after the owners niece.

Peninsula Grill NEW SOUTHERN

Very Expensive Downtown. 112 N. Market St. (843) 723-0700 peninsulagrill.com Serving Dinner (daily)

There are milestones in life that require a fancy steak. Or at least the kind of place where one can get a fancy steak. If you’re in the midst of such an occasion, Peninsula Grill has got you covered. Even after more than two decades, Peninsula Grill continues to impress with its luxurious fare. Executive chef Kalen Fortuna has taken the helm, bringing with him over a decade of fine dining experience with plans to change the restaurant’s course. “We’re trying to take it in a much more refined aspect,” Fortuna said about the restaurant’s new direction. “A lot less meat and the stuff that’s been there for a long time. It’s really just trying to put nice, beautifully composed plates on the dish and working a lot with local farmers & seafood.” —Vanessa Wolf

Pink Bellies VIETNAMESE

Expensive Downtown. 595 King St. (843) 640-3132 eatatpinkbellies.com Serving Dinner (Thurs.-Sun.)

Dessert | Savory | Late Night 563 KING ST. | THEHONEYHIVE.COM

From their humble beginnings as a food truck serving hungry College of Charleston students, Pink Bellies has grown to a bustling hot spot on Upper King Street. The cult-followers of Thai Phi’s spicy, decadent garlic noodles showed up in droves when the restaurant first opened its brick and mortar location for takeout only in March of 2021. Now, diners can enjoy this signature dish and other Vietnamese fare in a moody, yet vibrant dining room that brings a muchneeded modern vibe to King Street.

Other fan favorites include the spicy lamb dumplings and pho mai burger. The vibrant flavors do not stop at the food, they are incorporated seamlessly into the cocktail menu. Try the Tres Coop Riff, a tequila-based cocktail with an orange

creamsicle flavor that is smoked and topped with cinnamon chips for a s’mores flavor. —Elise DeVoe

Post House Restaurant MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Mount Pleasant. 101 Pitt St. (843) 203-7678 theposthouseinn.com Serving Dinner (daily); Weekend Brunch

Post House Restaurant opened in Mount Pleasant in August 2020 after undergoing significant renovations led by Kate and Ben Towill of design and hospitality firm Basic Projects. Evan Gaudreau, a 2019 James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef nominee, served as the kitchen’s first executive chef, a role that was later assumed by Isles of Palms native Nathan Hood. Post House is a reincarnation of The Old Village Post House, which closed in February 2019 after 16 years at 101 Pitt St. The Towills completely redesigned the circa-1896 space, moving the main dining room to the back of the restaurant and the bar to face Pitt Street.

The space is adorned with antiques, vintage rugs, local art, archival wallpaper and handcrafted fixtures. You’ll find seasonal snacks, raw bar options, fresh pastas, local seafood and an assortment of vegetarian dishes at Post House. Local seafood massaman curry, Carolina heritage farm pork with creamy kimchi collard greens and a “backbar” cheeseburger are some of the main dishes that pair with starters like lamb wraps or Anson Mills cornbread. Post House also features an expansive wine list with bottles from around the world, and those looking for a staycation can grab a room in the quaint inn connected to the restaurant.

—Parker Milner

Renzo PIZZA

Moderate Downtown. 384 Huger St. (843) 952-7864 renzochs.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

This former storefront-turned-hip neighborhood trattoria has a wood-fired oven and knows how to use it. Along with tempting starters like warm homemade sourdough bread or charred cauliflower florets with savory mushoom XO sauce, the menu features a trio of pastas, plus an array of creative Neapolitan-style pizzas.

Feeling adventurous? The Cheli continued on page 40

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SUMMERVILLE 110 Miles Jamison Rd 843-225-6201

40 || DISH || Spring 2022

THE MARKET AT STOREY FARMS

Top 50 Top 50 from page 38

offers a tomato base with lamb sausage, tangy pickled peppers, honey and za’atar.

There’s a bagel brunch on Sundays, plus Renzo offers one of the area’s largest selections of nat wine. —Vanessa Wolf

Rodney Scott’s BBQ BARBECUE

Inexpensive Downtown. 1011 King St. (843) 990-9535 rodneyscottsbbq.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (daily)

FREE-RANGE EGGS ETHICALLY-GROWN

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Tues– Sat 9:30am-5:30pm 4104 Betsy Kerrison Pkwy | Johns Island

Rodney Scott made waves in 2017 when, after two decades of cooking hogs at his family’s acclaimed operation in Hemingway, he brought his traditional burn barrel style of barbecue down to Charleston. That splendid whole hog — basted in a pepper-laced sauce and pulled into long, succulent strands — remains the foundation of Scott’s offering on King Street, but he’s added a few new options for the city crowd, like meaty spareribs, crisp fried catfish and craft beer on tap. The flawless collards and the ribeye sandwiches, made from pit-smoked steak sliced thin and piled

high on soft rolls, are must-try sleepers.

Now, with a second restaurant open in Birmingham and two more in the works, Rodney Scott is exporting South Carolina-style whole hog cookery across the entire South. —Robert F. Moss

Royal Tern SEAFOOD

Expensive Johns Island. 3005 Maybank Hwy. (843) 718-3434 theroyaltern.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

Set on Johns Island between Wild Olive and The Fat Hen, The Royal Tern is a welcome and well-positioned addition to that existing pair of successful Maybank Highway restaurants. With a focus on fish, the menu offers an aquarium-full of options. Along with a raw bar, there are fried “and chips” platters, elegant small plates and four variations of cooked oysters. Add to that a handful of sandwiches, a half-dozen seafood entrees and a hat trick of wood-fired steaks. The building is also glorious. Outside, it’s effortlessly stylish and would look just as appropriate nestled amongst a row of

Our go-to restaurant list

upscale beachfront estates. Inside, the chic, airy space boasts wood floors and high ceilings adorned with dramatic lights that resemble giant clusters of white grapes. The interior incorporates a number of current trends, including an open kitchen, marble-topped bar and miles of banquette seating. One of the best-looking joints in the area, The Royal Tern offers a hip place to scratch a variety of seafood itches on Johns Island.

—Vanessa Wolf

SHIKI SEAFOOD

Moderate Downtown. 334 E Bay St. (843) 720-8568 shikicharleston.com Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

One of downtown’s longest standing restaurants, SHIKI delivers fresh sushi rolls, nigiri and more in a cozy, newly renovated dining room, which is set to reopen this summer. Owner Hae Gon “David” Park opened SHIKI at 334 E. Bay St. in 2001 after moving to Charleston from New York City, where he worked at esteemed sushi restaurants like Yuraku, serving as head sushi chef

for five years. The chef prides himself on sourcing the highest-quality fish and his technique when making rolls, sashimi and nigiri is second to none. Patrons who want to go big can order the chef’s choice “omakase,” which translates to “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese. Chef Park will bring out a seemingly endless assortment of sashimi and nigiri bites, allowing guests to try a little bit of everything. For less devout sushi enthusiasts, there’s approachable options like tempura shrimp and avocado rolls, teriyaki beef, pork katsu and more. Shiki’s menu hasn’t changed much over the years, but why would it, as the restaurant helps fill a void in a city that has very few sushi-focused restaurants. Next time you’re in the mood for high quality sushi, give this family owned and operated restaurant a try. —Parker Milner

W

e invite you to join us for a communal dinner dining experience where you’ll have the best seats in the house. The five-course chef’s table experience is a traditional Mexican menu, created by Chef Raul Sanchez, and changes weekly to reflect seasonal ingredients.

For dinner reservations, visit us at raulsmayadelsol.com 1816 Reynolds Ave. Suite B • North Charleston • 843-225-2390

continued on page 42

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42 || DISH || Spring 2022

Top 50

MODERN TRADITIONAL OAXACAN CUISINE

INGREDIENTS AND TECHNIQUES

All Day Menu Tue–Sat 11am-9:30 pm Tequila & Taco Hour Tue–Sat 3pm-6pm 100-A Spring St • PinkCactusCHS.com

843.534.2433 CruCatering.com Full Service Off Premise Catering

Rūta Smith file photo

Get fresh oysters at The Royal Tern Top 50 from page 40

Slightly North of Broad NEW SOUTHERN

Expensive Downtown. 192 East Bay St. (843) 723-3424 snobcharleston.com Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (daily), Weekend Brunch

843.534.2434 CruCafe.com 18 Pickney St. Downtown Charleston

Slightly North of Broad (SNOB) is the perfect place to take visiting friends for their first taste of Charleston cuisine, for it embodies so much of what makes the city’s dining scene special. Since taking the reins in 2016, executive chef Russ Moore has deftly balanced the restaurant’s traditional

dishes with more forward-looking fare. Pristinely fresh seafood gets an elegant Southern touch on plates like New Bedford scallops with tomato ham hock broth or seared tuna topped with crisp fried oysters and tart yellow “mustard Q” sauce. SNOB was a local charcuterie pioneer and a platter of hearty country pate, savory pork rillettes and lush chicken liver mousse is the perfect evening starter.

—Robert F. Moss

continued on page 44

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44 || DISH || Spring 2022

Top 50

Hack Hargett

Zero Restaurant + Bar’s brings the English Beef Wellington to the Lowcountry Top 50 from page 42

Stella’s GREEK

SA LTHO U S EC ATE R I NG .CO M

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Martin'sBun Potato

Moderate Downtown. 114 St. Philip St. (843) 400-0026 stellascharleston.com Serving Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

It’s hard to say what’s most striking about Stella’s on St. Philip Street. Is it the hip, yet boisterous vibe? The large portions at an incredibly reasonable price point?

Or the vast, authentic and consistently delicious menu? Regardless of your ultimate conclusion, this is a trifecta worth a visit… Or five. The grilled octopus and spanakopita are simple perfection, while the saganaki is a visual showstopper and an excuse to pig out on cheese. Stella’s own recipes — namely her calamari and braised lamb shank with No. 5 noodles and brown butter shank sauce, are at once comforting and elevated, testimony to the woman who inspired it all.

—Vanessa Wolf

Wild Olive ITALIAN

Moderate Johns Island. 2867 Maybank Hwy. (843) 737-4177 wildoliverestaurant.com Serving Dinner (daily)

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Right off Maybank Highway sits Wild Olive, chef Jacques Larson’s haven for exquisite Italian fare. Since 2009, it has served as the go-to place for anniversary dinners and reunions with old friends. A comfortable bar greets those looking for a casual bite but don’t let that relaxed atmo-

sphere deceive you. Larson’s food is anything but. Incredible (and decadent) risotto fritters stuffed with sausage, spinach, Parmesan and mozzarella are a great way to start. And always ask about the specials, of which there are plenty. A past highlight was a pappardelle with prosciutto, pork and escarole. Larson is a firm believer in local and his conviction permeates everything on the plate. —Kinsey Gidick

Xiao Bao Biscuit ASIAN FUSION

Inexpensive Downtown. 224 Rutledge Ave. xiaobaobiscuit.com Serving Lunch, Dinner (Mon.-Sat.)

What started as a pop-up with a devout following eventually found a dedicated shrine much to the delight of all who crave a wide swath of Asian flavors (Chinese, Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Thai, Taiwanese) interpreted with fresh Lowcountry ingredients. The dishes are not for the meek or unadventurous; each packs escalating levels of heat. On the gentler scale is the popular Okonomiyaki, a Japanese cabbage pancake criss-crossed with drizzles of sriracha and Japanese mayo, then topped with a runny-yolk egg.

On the spicy end of the scale is the Mapo Dofu, whose cubes of tofu incinerate your taste buds with swirls of chili oil, leaving heat seekers crying through tears of gratitude as they lick their plates clean. Cool your palate with a coconut milk or a (nonalcoholic) lemongrass ginger beer.

—Allston McCrady continued on page 46

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Top 50 Top 50 from page 44

Zero Restaurant + Bar MODERN AMERICAN

Expensive Downtown. 0 George St. (843) 817-7900 zerogeorge.com Serving Dinner (Tues.-Sun.)

On the grounds of the elegant Zero George Street Boutique Hotel, Zero Restaurant + Bar’s romantic dining room is set in a former carriage house built in 1804. Here, chef Vinson Petrillo whips up innovative tasting menus with the option of four or seven courses, plus optional wine pairings.

Selections vary with the seasons, but anticipate such treats as lightly grilled mackerel served with foie gras and local citrus, or venison prepared with vadouvan curry and taleggio cheese.

Hit up happy hour for a craft cocktail; whether wielding a lead pipe or the candlestick, the bourbon-based Colonel Mustard is sure to pack a punch.

—Vanessa Wolf Jonathan Boncek file photo

Stella's Shrimp Santorini is sauteed over plaki and baked with feta, then served with house orzo

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Another look at the 2021 food winners Best of ... Downtown Charleston 2021

Best Asian Fusion Best Barbecue Best Biscuits Best Brisket Best Charcuterie Best Chocolatier Best Coffee House Best Desserts Best Downtown Brunch Best Downtown Restaurant Best French Best Gelato Best Greek Best Japanese Best Juice / Smoothie Bar Best New Restaurant Best Oysters Best Pizza - Traditional Best Raw Bar Best Ribs Best Romantic Restaurant Best Seafood Best She-Crab Soup Best Sushi Best Tapas Best Vietnamese Best Waterfront Dining

Xiao Bao Biscuit Lewis Barbecue Callie's Hot Little Biscuit Lewis Barbecue goat.sheep.cow.

Christophe Artisan Chocolatier Kudu Coffee & Craft Beer Kaminsky's Dessert Cafe Hall’s Chophouse Hall’s Chophouse 39 Rue de Jean Carmella’s Stella’s O-Ku Huriyali Neon Tiger 167 Raw D'Allesandro's Pizza 167 Raw Rodney Scott's BBQ 82 Queen 167 Raw 82 Queen O-Ku Barsa Tapas Lounge & Bar Xiao Bao Biscuit Fleet Landing

Best of ... East Cooper 2021

Acme Lowcountry Kitchen Acme Lowcountry Kitchen Page’s Okra Grill Jack’s Cosmic Dogs Page’s Okra Grill Page’s Okra Grill NICO Oysters + Seafood Saltwater Cowboys Page’s Okra Grill Basil Poe’s Tavern

Lost Dog Cafe Taco Boy Wild Olive Fat Hen (closed) Wild Olive

Folly Beach Folly Beach Johns Island Johns Island Johns Island

Best of ... West Ashley 2021

Best Cheesesteak DB’s Cheesesteaks, Hoagies & More Best Chinese Red Orchids China Bistro Best Indian Nirlep Indian Restaurant Best Salad California Dreaming Best West Ashley Brunch Early Bird Diner Best West Ashley Restaurant The Glass Onion

Best of ... Places with Multiple Locations 2021

Isle of Palms Isle of Palms Mount Pleasant Mount Pleasant Mount Pleasant Mount Pleasant Mount Pleasant Mount Pleasant Mount Pleasant Mount Pleasant Sullivan’s Island

Best Bagels Bagel Nation Best Caterer Home Team BBQ Best Cheap Meal Five Loaves Cafe Best Chicken Fingers Boxcar Betty’s Best Deli East Bay Deli Best Doughnut Shop Krispy Kreme Best Fried Chicken Boxcar Betty’s Best Fries Tattooed Moose Best Gourmet Sandwich Five Loaves Cafe Best Ice Cream Ye Ole Fashioned Ice Cream Best Kid-Friendly Restaurant Home Team BBQ Best Late Night Menu Waffle House Best Mac and Cheese Home Team BBQ Best Mexican Restaurant Santi's Restaurante Mexicano Best Milkshake Ye Ole Fashioned Best Nachos Home Team BBQ Best Poke Poke Bros.

Best Restaurant Hall’s Chophouse Best Restaurant for Vegetarians Five Loaves Cafe Best Restaurant When Someone Else is Paying Hall’s Chophouse Best Steak Hall’s Chophouse Best Sub Sandwich / Hoagie Jersey Mike’s Best Summerville Brunch Five Loaves Cafe Best Sunday Brunch Hall’s Chophouse Best Sweet Tea Chick-Fil-A Best Tacos Taco Boy Best Wings Home Team BBQ

Best of ... Miscellaneous Categories 2021

Best Chef Nico Romo Best Food Truck Roti Rolls Best Gyro My Big Fat Greek Trailer Best Local Artisanal Food Product Rio Bertolini Pasta Best Pitmaster Rodney Scott (Rodney Scott's BBQ) Best Place to Buy Local Seafood Crosby's Seafood Co. Best Wait Staff Hall's Chophouse

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Best IOP Brunch Best IOP Restaurant Best Breakfast Best Hot Dogs Best Meat & 3 Veggies Best Mount Pleasant Brunch Best Mount Pleasant Restaurant Best Outdoor Patio Best Shrimp & Grits Best Thai Best Burger

Best Folly Beach Brunch Best Folly Beach Restaurant Best Italian Best Johns Island Brunch Best Johns Island Restaurant

48 || DISH || Spring 2022

CHARLESTON’S

FAVORITES TRIED AND TRUE HOLY CITY EATERIES A SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

BEECH Beech bowl, sweet fire bowl, chicken bowl, avacado toast, avie monkey smoothie Daniel Island: 864 Island Park Dr, Charleston: 315 King St., James Is: 1739 Maybank Hwy, Acai Shack 1973 Riviera Dr Ste 2, Mt Pleasant beechrestaurants.com

BOHEMIAN BULL Build your own burger, wings, classic reuben, southern fried chicken sandwich 1531 Folly Road, James Island (843) 225-1817 • bohemianbull.com

BOWENS ISLAND RESTAURANT Locally harvested oysters, fried shrimp, hushpuppies, Frogmore stew 1870 Bowens Island Road, Charleston (843) 795-2757 bowensisland.com

CANTINA 76 Peruvian shrimp taco, beef brisket taco, roasted chicken salad, chicken quesadilla, veggie taco 819 Coleman Blvd., Mount Pleasant (843) 388-7717 219 Farm Lake View Road, Kiawah Island (843) 737-4607 • cantina76.com

CRU CAFE Fried green tomato: pork belly croutons, sheep’s milk feta, smoked tomato caramel 1784 Harmon Street, Charleston (843) 534-2433 • crucatering.com

DEEP WATER VINEYARD Palmetto Pepper Jalepeno Wine, Rotating Draft Meads, Magnolia White Wine, Sea Island Red Wine, Zinfandel red wine 6775 Bears Bluff Road, Wadmalaw Island (843) 559-6867 • deepwatervineyard.com

EAST BAY DELI Chief Reuben, The Citadel, buffalo chicken wrap, crunchy salad 1120 Oakland Market Road, Mount Pleasant (843) 216-5423, 334 E. Bay St. Ste. H, Downtown (843) 723-1234, 405 Dorchester Road, North Charleston (843) 747-1235, 858 Savannah Hwy, West Ashley (843) 571-2244, 9135 University Blvd., North Charleston (843) 553-7374 2519 N. Main St. Suite B, Summerville (843) 471-2444 • eastbaydeli.com

ELEVE AT GRAND BOHEMIAN HOTEL 55 Wentworth St, Charleston (843) 724-4144 kesslercollection.com/bohemiancharleston

FLEET LANDING Charleston shrimp & grits, stuffed hush puppies, Lowcountry seafood pasta, triggerfish sandwich, crab cakes.

186 Concord St, Charelston (843) 722-8100 Fleetlanding.net

GABRIELLE AT HOTEL BENNETT Bold and flavorful dining overlooking Marion Square.

404 King St., Downtown 844-713-0404 GabrielleDining.com

GALPAO GAUCHO A traditional Brazilian steakhouse, offers a menu with 17 different cuts of grilled meat, salads and iconic cheese bread.

167 East Bay St., Charleston 854-999-3950 • galpaogauchousa.com

GENE’S HAUFBRAU Buffayaki or Southern fried wings, hand breaded chicken tenders, the motherload burger, fried pork chop sandwich, chicken quesadilla 817 Savannah Hwy, Charleston (843) 225-4363 • genes.beer

HERD PROVISIONS Double Herd burger, short rib poutine, house made veg burger, brussels in garlic shoyu, beef carpaccio.

106 Grove St., Charleston (843) 637-4145 herdprovisionscharleston.com

HOLY CITY BREWING Holy City burger, chicken wings, soft pretzels 1021 Aragon Ave., North Charleston (843) 459-2948 holycitybrewing.com

INDACO 526 King St, Charleston (843) 727-1228 indacorestaurant.com

JALISCO Roasted shrimp, tamales, enchiladas, taco birria, carne asada 1271 Folly Road, Charleston (843) 638-8844 Jalisco-chs.com

KISS CAFE Hash It Out, Nunzio Perfect French Dip, The New Yorker, and specialty mimosas.

1802 Crowne Commons Way, Johns Island • (843) 405-8808 • kiss-cafe.com

LEWIS BARBECUE El Sancho Sandwich, Texas Hot Guts, Beef Brisket, Pork Spare Ribs, Green Chile Corn Pudding, Mac & Cheese, Brisket Nachos, Banana Pudding 464 N. Nassau St., Downtown (843) 805-9500 lewisbarbecue.com

MALIKA PAKISTANI CHAI CANTINA Chicken Tikka Masala, Shakkar Kandi Chaat, Chapli Kabab Plate, Cholay BIryani, Masala Fries 1333 Theater Drive, Mount Pleasant (843) 388-5178 malikacanteen.com

MAYA CHARLESTON Aguachile, tuna tostada, al pastor taco, pollo en mole negro, enchiladas de calabaza 479-B King St., Charelston (843) 789-4299 • mayachs.com

MAYA DEL SOL KITCHEN Five course chef table dinner experience by reservation only. Thu-Sat 1813 Suite B, Reynolds Ave., North Charleston (843) 225-2390 raulsmayadelsol.com

MEX 1 COASTAL CANTINA Taco tailgate box, Mex 1 margarita mix, guacamole and quesadillas 817 St. Andrews Blvd., West Ashley (843) 751-4001 2205 Middle St., Sullivan’s Island (843) 882-8172 1109 Park West Blvd., Mount Pleasant (843) 352-9699 mex1coastalcantina.com

NEON TIGER Trumpet Mushroom Calamari, Crab Cakes. Rueben, Formaggio & Champaignon Pizza, Paloma 654 King Street neontiger.com

OYSTER HOUSE Oyster shooter, whole crispy flounder, snapper, coast seafood special, she crab soup, roasted beet salad 35 S. Market St., Charleston (843) 853-2900 oysterhouse.menu

POKE BROS Signature bowls like “The Duke” or the “Johnny Utah”, or build your own bowl.

Mochi ice cream. GF options.

5070 International Blvd., North Charleston 644-H1 Long Point Road, Mount Pleasant • (843) 800-5600 eatpokebros.com

RANCHO LEWIS Beef Enchiladas, Chiles Rellenos, Chile con Queso, Coctel de Shrimp, Fajitas, Sopapillas, Margaritas, Rattlesnake Milk 1503 King Street, Downtown (843) 996-4500 rancholewischs.com rancholewischs.com (843) 388-0003 redsicehouse.com RUBY SUNSHINE Cochon benedict, bananas foster pain perdu, chicken st. Charles benedict, white chocolate bread pudding pancakes.

171 East Bay St., Charelston (843) 253-8188 • rubysunshine.com

SALTHOUSE CATERING Gourmet To Go, Charcuterie Boards, Fried Chicken Biscuits, Braised Short Rib, Shrimp and Grits 1750 Signal Point Road, Suite 2-B, Charleston (843) 577-7847 salthousecatering.com/gourmettogo

SUNRISE BISTRO Breakfast burrito, open faced omelets, grits bowl, shrimp and grits 1039 Johnnie Dodds Ave., Mount Pleasant (843) 856-7796 1797 Main Road, Johns Island (843) 718-1858 110 Miles Jamison Road, Summerville (843) 225-6201 • sunrise-bistro.com

SWIG & SWINE PB&J WIngs, Jalepeno PimentpCheese, “The Big Nasty”, Certified Angus Beef Brisket, Nut Butter Pie 1217 Savannah Highway, West Ashley (843) 225-3805, 1990 Old Trolley Road, Summerville (843) 974-8688, 2379 Hwy 41, Mount Plesant (843) 416-7368 8600 Dorchester Road, North Charleston (843) 225-6111 swigandswinebbq.com

THAILICIOUS Authentic Thai dishes by Thai chefs created from imported ingredients.

Savory noodles to stir fries to fried rice to noodle soup to hot pot. Come take your taste buds on a journey to Thailand!

1975 Magwood Drive, Charleston (843) 501-7167 thailicious.com

THE HONEY HIVE The Kinsey Cake, Peanut Butter Creme Brulee, Strawberry Shortcake, The Madame Cockatil, The Rose Kennedy Cocktail 563 King St, Charleston (843) 576-4700 thehoneyhive.com

TRIANGLE CHAR & BAR Triangle Char + Bar’s menu features killer burgers, a sweet selection of tacos, eclectic entrees and an array of tasty bar snacks – all available for takeout!

828 Savannah Hwy Charleston (843) 377-1300 trianglecharandbar.com

VICKERY’S Lowcountry sauté, shrimp, sausage and grits, classic Cuban sandwich, mahi club, cashew encrusted tuna salad 1313 Shrimp Boat Lane, Mount Pleasant (843) 884-4440 • vickerysmtp.com

VIVA TACOS & TEQUILA Our Chilaquiles will definitely change how you do brunch time! Brunch here at VIVA happens every Saturday and Sunday from 11am-2pm, so don’t miss out!

864 Island Park Drive, Suite #105 Charleston (843) 972-8683 vivatacostequila.com

WILD COMMON Wild Common’s culinary experiences feature executive chef Orlando Pagán’s custom tasting menu in one of Charleston’s most inspired spaces.

103 Spring St., Charleston• (843) 8177311 wildcommoncharleston.com

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PADDOCK & WHISKY Paddock Old Fashion, Race Day, Tequila Fresca, Tartare, Fries with Bernaise 1074 E Montague Ave., Park Circle (843) 203-4238 1962 Maybank Hwy, James Island (843) 225-5877 Paddockandwhisky.com

PINK CACTUS Don’t miss our killer tamales, tacos, enchiladas, tortas, quesadillas and most importantly — margaritas!

100 A Spring St., Charleston (843) 764-9343 • pinkcactuschs.com

STEEL CITY PIZZA Parmesan dippers, godfather weggie, spaghetti and meatballs, our white pizza, and the Steel City Special pizza 1440 Ben Sawyer Blvd #1301, Mount Pleasant (843) 856-2525 8600 Dorchester Road, North Charleston (843) 225-6111 • steelcitypizza.com

50 || DISH || Spring 2022

ESSAY

LESSONS LEARNED Nutrient-dense food is worth the price of gold

By Jenny Gaddy Growing up, we always had a garden and fruit trees that speckled our backyard. Each spring my dad would rototill the soil to prepare for planting, and throughout the snowless months, both of my parents would churn the large compost heap we had. I remember being fascinated by the mound — that it was hot in the center, that an apple turned into soil and that it forever fluctuated in size. It was like lungs — expanding and compressing dependent upon where it was in the decomposition cycle.

My childhood in Spokane, Wash., was rich. It was painted with experiences and freedom to play and explore. My mom approached my sisters and I’s impressionable years like she did a meal; well-balanced. She introduced us to “different worlds,” with trips to the Oregon Coast where we boarded my grandpa’s fishing boat and set out to catch crab for lunch to flying down to El Paso where we would walk over to Juarez, Mexico, and visit the markets. Before we could walk, we were out in the garden with her. She would keep our attention as long as she could before we were off playing again. She’d tell us, “Dig a little hole, put the seed in it, and then, cover it and pat it with love. All you have to do after that is water it and it will grow. It eats sunshine and you’ve given it a good home.”

Since I can remember, the words “everything in moderation” have been a mantra that guides my way. My mother transferred and shared her belief and knowledge of gardening with us. “Fresh is best,” she would say, and playfulness and fun is an essential part of the most valuable recipe in one’s life: health.

In the summer, if I wanted a snack, I would go out and pick sugar snap peas because in my mind, there was nothing better — crisp, thirst-quenching and with a burst of sweetness with each bite.

I was blessed to absorb through experiential learning that nutrient-dense food is worth the price of gold. Food encompasses a vast breadth of life itself. It is a skill, an art, medicine,

Rūta Smith

sustenance, an experience, a deep connection and much more. The way we treat the land and the way we treat our bodies is the epitome of what our lives and the state of the planet will be.

As I have grown, that curiosity has stuck with me and has led me to learn about solutions that exist to address farming practices that deplete the soil rather than work in congruence with replenishing the land. Most of the fruits and vegetables in our diets (store bought) are grown in dirt. Dirt being soil that has been depleted of all its nutrients. Growing up, I learned the importance of letting the ground rest and feeding it with compost. Soil was the “good

home,” as my mom said. It is the defining factor of the nourishment you receive.

Nutrition is at the heart, but it can still be fun and delicious. I’ve adopted my mom’s chocolate zucchini cake recipe to evolve into something a bit healthier. It has a dash of vitamins, a splash of healthy fats and an abundance of flavor. Providing your day with something rich, just like the soil that provides our lives.

Jenny Gaddy is the owner and founder of Atlyss Food Co., dedicated to providing sustainable, healthy pre-packaged meals to the Lowcountry.

CENTRAL TEXAS-STYLE ‘CUE SERVED DAILY 464 N. NASSAU ST. 843.805.9500 LEWISBARBECUE.COM

NOW OPEN

BORDER FOOD MEETS COWBOY COOKIN’ 1503 KING ST. 843.996.4500 RANCHOLEWISCHS.COM

Artfully curated flavors plated to perfection, overlooking Marion Square.

GabrielleDining.com | 844.713.0404 | 404 King St. Charleston, SC 29403