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Border patrol The River Wye is born in the rugged mountains of mid-Wales and flows south for about 150 miles before meeting the River Severn, but just before that it meanders along the rural border of England and Wales, past dramatic gorges, dense forest and historic castles.

For my trip to the Wye Valley I stayed in a tiny whitewashed cottage in Symonds Yat, a village that comes in two parts since it straddles the river. To get from my cottage in Symonds Yat West to the Saracens Head Pub in Symonds Yat East, I had the choice of a threemile walk via the nearest bridge or the hand ferry. The captain of this open boat stood up to grab the wire above, pulled us across the fast flowing river and delivered us safely in time for a hearty lunch.

From here it was a short but extremely steep walk up through the woods to Yat Rock for the area’s most famous view. On the way we passed the distinctive red and white Scandinavian-looking house featured in the TV

Finding peace by the river

show Sex Education, which is filmed all around here.

Bursting out of the tree line, gasping for breath, I reached a natural stone podium and gazed down upon the Wye as it painted a vast horseshoe shape through the landscape. On the other side, green fields

with grazing cattle sloped right down to the river where a group of kayakers paddled slowly around the bend. The forest stretched for miles in every direction and the river flowed towards patchwork fields melting into the distance. From the other side of the rock I saw my cottage, part of a toy village below. Because it forms the border between England and Wales, the Wye is lined with several forts and castles, but probably its most famous monument is Tintern Abbey, which lies in ruins on the Welsh side. The soaring arches and columns still stand firm 900 years after it was built but the lichen-covered grey skeleton is now open to the elements, transformed into a cathedral to nature.