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IN NAPOLEON’S FOOTSTEPS / From Corsica to St Helena
IN NAPOLEON’S FOOTSTEPS / From Corsica to St Helena
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The famous little French general insisted that large oak barrels of his favourite Courvoisier brandy be shipped with him in exile. In due time, the name ‘Napoleon’ became synonymous with tradition and luxury. We invite you to travel to Corsica, Napoleon’s humble birthplace and to St Helena, the remote island where he spent his final days.
A simple bit of sleuthing should show that the mystique around Napoleon and his brandy of choice was no more than a clever marketing gimmick. He departed for St Helena after his final defeat at Waterloo in 1815, while Courvoisier’s history only dates back to 1835! Fortunately, the island of Corsica, rated as one of the top 10 food travel destinations in the world, needs no such hard-sell. It is a place of natural beauty where its isolation has kept the authentic Corsican lifestyle and cuisine intact. Since Napoleon’s days, some parts have had street lights installed, at least… My partner (in life and in travel) was born in the Corsican countryside. He ran barefoot with his friends across fields and past woods where there was always
the chance of an odd encounter with wild boar. Hard soccer fields and night skies with stars were his everyday experiences. I am not sure whether it was his return home after several years that eased our way, but the Corsican people seemed terribly non-plussed. They had no need to point us towards specific beaches or sights. It was as if they knew one could head in any direction on this island and have a fantastic experience. And so it was indeed.
Knapsack over the shoulder,
we hiked beautiful mountains, swam in waterfalls and mountain lakes, or just found a sandy cove anywhere near dramatic rock cliffs and blue oceans. Time stood still. Not so the wild boar – they roam the woods. I could share how taken I was by the absolute cuteness factor of the brownish, stripy babies, but I know we are heading into recipe territory soon. Rustic sees, rustic does, and city slicker that I am, I had to learn where food actually came from.
We skipped the bigger cities, leaving the dramatic Bonaficio cliffs
for last and settled into a stone cottage on an uncle’s land, built more than a century ago. There are enough rocks in the land for another thousand cottages. (Note to self: remind readers of the right time of year to travel. It is not August, unless you have air-con). From here, we set out to explore; not just the place, but also my partner’s almost forgotten familial lines, and each visit accompanied by yet another traditional feast. Although an island, its historic significance as not only a conquered outpost but also as a marker on Mediterranean voyages of old, shows in the cuisine, where every next meal had some surprise. At heart though, when you live on an island, you eat what you grow and harvest, making for real authentic meals.
Our last few days were spent on the coast, where expensive yachts are docked and old and new become neighbours. When we saw a police car pulling over a local, we were not sure whether it related to the growing militancy of a separarist group, or whether it was just someone who had one too many at the local festival.
Two weeks felt like a lifetime and stepping off the plane in Joburg was a real reality check. But in my pocket, I had the list of favourite Corsican dishes we sampled, and I share some of them with you. My partner reckons that I must have made a good impression, because several aunts were willing to scribble down recipes. As soon as we are over jet lag and grown used to cellphones and alarm codes again, I plan to relive this amazing place one meal at a time.
Here are 7 typical dishes that you should eat when in Corsica.
Brocciu. If you say cheese in Corsica, you say brocciu. White and tender, it’s a fresh cheese similar to ricotta. It’s used in a lot of dishes, like soups, omelettes and lasagnas.
Grilled fish. Don’t forget that Corsica is an island. Therefore, every dish with fish is an authentic pleasure. Especially the grilled fish: swordfish, tuna, shrimp and other shellfish.
Bouillabaisse. You won’t eat a fish soup like this in any part of the world. Scorpionfish, surmullet and
tub gurnard are the base of this recipe. It’s served with the rouille, a sauce made with breadcrumbs, olive oil, saffron and chili pepper.
Civet de Sanglier. Another great dish of Corsica. The wild boar meat is prepared in a pot with carrots, chestnuts, fennel, garlic and onion.
Fiadone. A pie with brocciu and lemon. HOH
Charcuterie. This is the classic appetizer of Corsica. Famous especially for the fresh meat they’re prepared with: prisutto (ham dehydrated for 18 months), figatellu (liver sausage with wine), or lonzu (filet of pork preserved under a layer of fat).
Veau aux olive. The lamb with olives is prepared in every part of Corsica. It’s cooked slowly, so the taste is enhanced.
CORSICAN COOKING / Wild Boar Ragu / Civet de Sanglier
The French island of Corsica is highly rated as a food destination. With wild boar roaming these parts, the Corsican Civet de Sanglier has become quite the favourite. Closer to home, you may replicate the taste with either pork or warthog.
INGREDIENTS • 1 kg wild boar shoulder meat chopped into 2 cm chunks • flour for coating, seasoned with salt and plenty of pepper • olive oil for frying • 100 g bacon lardons • 1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped • 2 carrots, peeled and finely diced • 300 g chestnuts • 2 tsp juniper berries, lightly crushed • 2 bay leaves • 2 sprigs of rosemary • 2 sprigs of fennel • 4 sage leaves • 500 ml red wine, Pinot Noir • 400 g tin chopped tomatoes • 2 tbsp tomato puree • 2 tsp caster sugar • 2-inch strip of orange rind • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
METHOD • Preheat the oven to 150C/Gas 2. • Heat the oil in an ovenproof, heavybased pan or casserole over a lowmedium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and garlic. • Season the flour with salt and pepper. Lightly coat the wild boar chunks in the seasoned flour. Add some olive oil to a separate pan over a high heat and add the wild boar pieces. Fry until the meat is golden brown on all sides, you may have to do this in batches. • Make a cut in each chestnut on the round side and cook in salted water for about 10 minutes, then drain, rinse under cold water and remove the shells. • When the vegetables have softened, add the bacon lardons, bay and sage leaves, rosemary, juniper berries and orange rind to the pan. Cook for about five minutes until the bacon lardons and the vegetables have browned a
little around the edges. • Add the browned boar meat and chestnuts to the vegetables. Pour the red wine into the frying pan used to brown the meat. Cook over a medium heat, scraping the bottom of the pan to loosen any charred bits of meat. • Add the tin of chopped tomatoes, tomato purée and sugar to the ragu and stir it through. Cook for two minutes, stirring regularly to avoid burning. • Pour the warm wine into the ragu and add approximately 150 ml of water. Bring to a simmer. • Put the lid on the pan and place in the preheated oven for at least 2 hours, or until the meat is meltingly tender and the liquid reduced. Check once or twice in this time and stir to prevent the meat on the surface drying out. • Serve with any pasta, polenta or creamy mashed potato and a glass of Pinot Noir. HOH
A HISTORIC ADVENTURE / St Helena Island
After Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo in 1815, the British rather unceremoniously sent him packing to St Helena Island, in the midst of the Atlantic Ocean. This is where he would spend his final days, far away from the public eye.
There are few undiscovered destinations left in the world and, until recently, the British Territory of St Helena was one of them. The opening of St Helena’s airport and the advent of commercial flights have reduced journey times from days to mere hours, making it easier to experience this extraordinary island.
St Helena’s scenery is spectacular. From the clear Atlantic waters past sheer cliffs and breathtaking rock formations, through arid red desert dotted with cacti, rolling green fields and flax-covered hillsides to a pinnacle of prehistoric cloud forest. St Helena packs a lot into 120 square kilometres.
Visitors will discover centuriesold military fortifications and the legacies of past exiles, including that of Boer prisoners of war captured during the Anglo-Boer War at the turn of the 20th century. Visit Napoleon’s lodgings and his original tomb. For military historians, the island tells many stories of colonial conquest and ambition. Nature
lovers and action travellers will encounter fascinating flora and fauna found nowhere else on the planet and can hike up the famous Jacob’s Ladder or to the heartshaped waterfall. Dive with whale sharks, fish off the wild rocks, or just
lie on the lovely beaches for a lazy day. Meet the locals, affectionately called “Saints”, renowned for their warm and friendly welcome. Whether an active explorer, avid historian or marine enthusiast, this destination has something for everyone.
Mantis St Helena is located in Jamestown, the island’s capital. The 30 bedroom boutique hotel is set in the original East India Company’s officers’ barracks built in 1774 and boasts a large restaurant, cocktail
WIN A TRIP TO ST HELENA WITH THE MANTIS GROUP
bar, guest lounge and two spacious outdoor terraces. Luxurious Heritage Suites and newly built Contemporary Rooms have set a new accommodation standard on the island.
Airlink connects you to St Helena with direct flights from Johannesburg on Saturdays, while festive season flights from Cape Town operate on Tuesdays between 3 December 2019 until 25 February 2020. HOH
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