Champa Meuanglao: March / April 2020

SOUTHERN LAOS A melting pot of culture

DISCOVER CENTRAL VIETNAM

THE

CHARMS OF

CHAMPHONE MARCH / APRIL 2020

LIU YIFEI. Tissot Le Locle lady Automatic.

TOP WESSELTON DIAMONDS.

#ThisIsYourTime TISSOT BOUTIQUE & SERVICE CENTER WORLDTIME - SIHOM NO. 83, UNIT 09, ANOU VILLAGE, CHANTHABOULY DISTRICT, VIENTIANE, LAOS PDR, TEL : +856-20-555 24 098 EMAIL: WORLDTIME.SH@JKALEXINTERNATIONAL.COM

TI S S OT WATC H E S .CO M TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION

WORLDTIME - VIENTIANE CENTER NO. 13, KHOUVIENG ROAD, NONGCHAN VILLAGE, SISATTANAK DISTRICT, GROUND FLOOR, VIENTIANE, LAOS PDR. TEL: +856-20-555 24 097 EMAIL: WORLDTIME.VC@JKALEXINTERNATIONAL.COM OFFICIAL RETAILER: TAIFA TIME TRADERS 132, # 62/3 NONGBONE ST, NONGCHAN VILLAGE, SISATTANAK DISTRICT, VIENTIANE, LAOS PDR . TEL: + 856-21-215 268

BOUNMA CHANTHAVONGSA PRESIDENT & CEO OF LAO AIRLINES

Dear Passengers, Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines.

On behalf of the board of directors, I would like to extend our best wishes to you for International Women’s Day and Lao New Year, which have come around again. We wish you happiness and success for you and your family.

Lao Airlines is always ready to serve, whether near or far.

I hope that Lao Airlines will be your choice as a convenient method of transport to your destination and we hope that we can welcome you aboard a flight with us again soon.

Safe travels.

With highest respect, Bounma Chanthavongsa President & CEO of Lao Airlines

Sabaidee

Hello readers, Welcome to the March-April issue of Champa Meuanglao.

This issue is full of exciting new travel ideas in Laos and the surrounding countries.

In this issue, we unveil the beauty, charm, and heritage of our newest flight destination: Danang in central Vietnam.

COVER IMAGE The Library at Wat Ban Lam Chan, Savannakhet Photo by Phoonsab Thevongsa

We get a peek at the vibrant myriad of cultures in southern Laos.

Get a feel of Lao creative decor with our style guide, as well as seeing new places to explore and enjoy in Luang Prabang.

PUBLISHING

Interact with elephants responsibly at the Elephant Conservation Center in Sayaboury, and whet your appetite for adventure with a kayaking trip around the 4000 Islands in southern Laos.

Editor In Chief Editors

Outside of Savannakhet, Champhone District is full of interesting historical, natural, and cultural sites well worth a visit.

Managing Editor

Finally, get a taste of local Lao food with a delicious spread from Kualao.

Contributing Editor Creative Director

Happy Reading!

Assistant Designer

The Champa Meuanglao Publishing Team

Contributing Writers

ADVISORY BOARD Bounma Chanthavongsa President Somsamay Visounnarath Vice President �– Technical, Operation & Training

Head Photographer Contributing Photographers

Sengpraseuth Mathouchanh Vice President – Planning, Cooperation & International Relations & Legislation Leuangsamay Leuangvanxay Vice President – Administration, Finance & Accounting Rada Sunthorn Vice President – Passenger Service, Cargo & Catering Saleum Tayarath Vice President – Commercial, Tourism

Jason Rolan Cameron Darke Aditta Kittikhoun Duangtavanh Oudomchith Angkhana Vongphukdy Jochen Moravek Thanouphet Maniseng Benny Omar Claire Boobbyer Dominique le Roux Dyan Barutzki Vanida Phimphrachanh Viphat Sengmany Phoonsab Thevongsa Aaron Joel Santos Bart Verweij Christian Berg Paul Wager

ADVERTISING Sales & Marketing Manager

Prae Phongpipatkul prae.phongpipatkul@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 95646578

Sales & Marketing Executive

Souphaphone Insixiengmay souphaphone.insixiengmay@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 55471337

LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com Follow our official Facebook page at www.facebook.com/laoairlinesofficial to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos

RDK GROUP 134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la

DISCLAIMER

Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher.

All rights reserved. Copyright © 2020 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group. www.champameuanglao.com

Listening. Understanding. Delivering.

MARCH / APRIL 2020

CONTENTS

34

20 50

58 40

28

12

14

16

WHAT'S ON

FOOD CAPITAL

MADE IN LAOS

Our guide to events

The foodie's guide

Showcasing the best

in Laos

to Vientiane

Lao products

18

20

28

34

CITYSCAPE

SOUTHERN LAOS

EXPLORE

WILDLIFE

48 hours in Luang

A melting pot of culture

The charms of Champhone

The Elephant Conservation Center

Prabang

40

50

58

63

SNAPSHOT

STYLE

ADVENTURE

ON THE AIR

Discover Central Vietnam

Traditional items spark

The 4000 Islands by kayak

Timetables and

elegance in your home

contact details

12

WHAT'S ON

WHAT'S ON?

Laos is full of colorful festivals and celebrations happening all the time.

Stay up to date on events going on around the country and join in the fun!

1

MARCH

1. The New Year procession from Wat That Noy to Wat Xieng Thong, Luang Prabang 2. Pouring water over statues of the

VIENTIANE

VIENTIANE INTERNATIONAL HALF MARATHON

For both casual and serious runners, this half marathon offers 5 km, 10.5 km, and 21 km options.

Buddha represents purification and the washing away of both sins and bad luck.

3. The ancestor spirits of Luang Prabang dance in their annual procession 4. Throwing water at one another

To register or learn more: vientianehalfmarathon.com

has become an iconic festivity

1

2

13–16

APRIL 3

NATIONWIDE

LAO NEW YEAR (PI MAI LAO)

The largest festival in Laos sees the nation devolve into a week-long water fight. Families get together to make merit and visit temples to bring blessings for the coming year. The water throwing brings a nice respite to the intense summer heat. It is exceptionally fascinating to visit Luang Prabang during this time, as there are many more traditional pageants, parades, and customs unique to this festival.

4 To list your event here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com

+856 21 249 999 info@surestayvientiane.com surestayvientiane.com 101 Chaoanou Rd, Watchan Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Laos

14

FOOD CAPITAL

food CAPITAL

Benny Omar navigates the movable feast of Vientiane Capital, a town of exciting cuisines and dining experiences, with everything from sizzling street fare, cafe cool, or fine dining gourmandise.

Benny Omar is a food & travel blogger based in Vientiane.

Visit his page online: facebook.com/vientianelifestyle

BAR

ROOFTOP BAR

BY LAO POET HOTEL Good drinks, great vibes, and epic views at one of Vientiane’s highest bars, where you get a bird’s-eye view of everything great about the city in one glance: the lit-up street of Rue Samsenthai, the gleaming historical temples, and the majestic Mekong River. Here, you’ll find classic cocktails, a relaxing pool, and a lounge. The menu features international and Lao cuisine.

don't miss

Pad Thai Gai

ASIAN

Hengbounnoy Street

PINTOH A pintoh is a portable food container. This little restaurant brings back old-school style by serving dishes in pintohs like chicken rice, pad thai, chicken wings, and many more. Prices start from 20,000 kip.

Pintoh creates flavors as good as home cooking in the simplest way. Here, it is not just a restaurant but a place where everyone can enjoy food and reminisce.

Mon–Sun 6.30 am– 10.30 pm

don't miss

Lao Poet's Signature cocktail

@LaoPoetVientiane

Hengboun Road Mon–Sat 9 am– 9 pm @PintohVTE01

CAFE

MINNA NO CAFE SAMSENTHAI

MINNA NO CAFE

Samsenthai Road

Minna no Cafe, Japanese for “Cafe for all”, was founded by the organization Asian Development with Disabled Persons. The business employs deaf and people with other disabilities, from baristas to waiters to kitchen. The cafe is also a vocational training place for young deaf students.

Besides drinks and cake, they sell delicious cookies and other baked goods.

To help customers communicate with staff while they eat, the cafe also sells books on Lao Sign Language.

Mon–Sun 7.30 am – 6 pm Minna no Cafe Samsenthai

don't miss

Homemade cookies

MINNA NO CAFE

Thadeau Road Mon–Sun 7 am – 6 pm Minna no cafe �in ADDP

Same day delivery in the city ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ສິນຄ້າອອນລາຍ

Delivery of online products

ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ສິນຄ້າທົ່ວໄປ Delivery of goods

ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ຜູ້ໂດຍສານ (Taxi) Taxi service

ເກັບເງິນປາຍທາງ ແລ້ວໂອນພ້ອມ COD and funds transfer service

ບໍລິການ ສົ່ງບັດເຊີນຕ່າງໆ Invitation delivery service

Phontong Chommany Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR

020 9899-9542 020 5587-8985

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MADE IN LAOS

MADE IN LAOS

Looking for the perfect memento from your trip to Laos?

Whether shopping for souvenirs or sampling some delicious Lao snacks, Champa Meuanglao has chosen a few of the best local products.

SAVAN SKIRT Handwoven ikat dyed with natural indigo and sewn by the young women of Sengsavang, a center for women at risk of trafficking and abuse in Savannakhet.

390,000 LAK Ma Té Sai Ban Aphai, Luang Prabang

EARRINGS & NECKLACE Give the gift of sustainability with jewelry upcycled from newspaper and magazines, created by the women of Lao Disabled Women’s Development Centre.

25,000 / 120,000 LAK Lao Disabled Women’s Development Centre Thadeua Road, Vientiane laodisabledwomen.com

matesai.com

ZODIAC TEA A tea made from trees over 800 years old. Buds are carefully selected and then packaged by hand.

When brewed, the golden yellow liquid has a natural fragrance with tinges of honey and fruit.

880,000 LAK 36 Manor IHC office, Building A, Floor1, Ban Donenokkhoum, Vientiane WeChat 微信: Y1445756178

BBL GANODERMA POWDER CAPSULES BBL ganoderma powder capsules, made of wild ganoderma lucidum, originated from Laos’ primary forest, helps protect your liver health from excessive smoking and drinking, poor sleep, hypertension, high cholesterol, and diabetes.

258,000 LAK BBL (Laos) Agricultural Resources Co.Ltd. Ban Nakham, Vientiane WeChat 微信��: BBL98666618

To list your products here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com

18

CITYSCAPE

IN

LUANG PRABANG EAT

SENA STEAK HOUSE

POPOLO CANTINA A hip addition to the culinary palette of Luang Prabang, Popolo is located in a lovingly restored heritage building and serves up a delicious menu of Mediterranean cuisine. They have a fantastic selection of fresh salads, pasta, and pizza from their wood-fired oven, which go down great with one of their creative cocktails.

BOUANG This favorite of the food scene serves up unique reinterpretations based on traditional Asian home cooking.

The restaurant has become a haven for photographers and foodies alike, as every dish drips with creative presentation. Specialties include Cinnamon Pork Stew, Gnocchi Green Curry, and salads called “Buddha Bowls” made of fresh local vegetables.

DRINK

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MAOLIN TAVERN This rustic yet inviting pub on Luang Prabang’s main drag is a great place to relax after a day of sightseeing and meet with locals and tourists alike.

The well-stocked bar has draft Belgian and Lao beer, as well as French wines, cocktails, and a selection of Asian and Western food to keep you refreshed throughout the night.

A great option for meat lovers and those who love them. Succulent steaks, both local and imported, are seared to perfection by a western chef. Burgers and salads are also on offer, as well as Lao and Italian food.

Wine and cocktail pairings are also on offer to enhance the people watching on this bustling end of the main street.

ICON KLUB This cozy bohemian bar is the creation of Hungarian ex-pat, Lisa.

Her creative spirit is evident in every wall and corner of the room. The cocktails contain classics, as well as new concoctions like the Vanilla Sky and Absinthe Martini. Depending on the mood on any given evening, poetry readings and live music might spontaneously occur. Stop in for a drink and end up staying all evening.

Moving inside beyond the unassuming exterior, a modern and well-stocked lounge await. A plethora of hard-to-come-by spirits lines the bar, which is home to a range of unique sophisticated cocktails like the Ultimate G&T served with a ribbon of cucumber, or the Pineapple Ginger Mojito. Modern bar food and desserts also fill out the menu.

19

DO

POTTERY HOUSE LAO FOOD

OCK POP TOK From the Lao words for “East meets West”, this socially responsible enterprise started nearly two decades ago and is a leader in unique weaving patterns based on traditional Lao themes. With a few boutiques in town, as well as a weaving center on the Mekong where courses in weaving and dyeing are offered, Ock Pop Tok offers unique insights to this most Lao of handicrafts handed down by generations of women.

Begun as a project to help revitalize local pottery traditions in Ban Chan, across the Mekong from Luang Prabang, the enterprising founders open their village and give hands-on training to spin clay into a takehome souvenir. As the name implies, delicious Lao food is prepared for lunch.

SEE

MANDALAO The first elephant experience in Luang Prabang to offer responsible adventures that do not involve riding. Instead, participants learn about elephants and walk with them through the jungle and rice fields, and even bathe them! Build a deeper connection with these amazing creatures and understand why they are also the symbols of Laos.

TRADITIONAL ARTS & ETHNOLOGY CENTRE

LAOS BUFFALO DAIRY

The only museum in Laos dedicated to its ethnic peoples while illustrating their unique aspects through the textiles they create. Informative lectures and demonstrations are sometimes given. There is even a kids’ area offering activities to enhance their enjoyment and understanding.

In the boutique, there are unique high-quality handicrafts not available elsewhere in town.

Located along the road to Kouang Si Falls, Laos Buffalo Dairy is a pleasant stop where travelers can explore and learn about the only buffalo dairy in the country. Feed and bathe the buffalos and then finish it off with some delicious buffalo mozzarella or ice cream in their cafe!

PHA TAD KE BOTANICAL GARDEN Laos’ first and only botanical garden, this area across the Mekong from Luang Prabang town is devoted to collecting, researching, and interpreting the rather unknown flora of Laos. It is impossible to visit and not learn new information about their fascinating plants. There are gardens devoted to gingers, folk remedies, types of bamboo, and much more!

MARCH / APRIL 2020

A MELTING POT OF CULTURE TEXT BY DYAN BARUTZKI & VIPHAT SENGMANY, VILLAGE CHIEF OF BAN KHAN DON PHOTOGRAPHS BY SWISSCONTACT / BART VERWEIJ

21

O

ne of the beloved characteristics of Laos is its cultural diversity. In Salavan Province alone, there are 12 distinct ethnic groups, the majority of which are primarily of the Austroasiatic (Mon-Khmer) language family. The largest sub-group in the region is the Katou ethnic group, who are predominantly scattered along the Bolaven Plateau (Paksong, Salavan, Sekong) and Attapeu.

To learn more about the Katou tribe, we traveled from Pakse to Ban Khan Don – a multi-ethnic village between Sekong and Salavan province. The village is named after the Khan Don river, an homage to their source of life. Ban Khan Don is home to several ethnic groups aside from the Katou, such as the Alak and Nge people. Upon arriving at the community house, a rectangular-shaped wooden hut usually located at the center of the village, we were amazed at the artifacts displayed inside. These told the story of the Katou traditional way of life from when they were still living on the highlands until they decided to settle in their current location in 1961. The artifacts are mostly wooden or bone and are interesting to see. We recommend you book a village guide to learn more about the meaning and the story behind the artifacts in English.

Every year since 1996, the village celebrates the Katou festival on March 5; and every 10 years there is an even bigger celebration where members of the tribe from other provinces attend. During the festival, you can expect a lot of dancing, especially around the community house, and an abundance of food. On the first day, the villagers dance around the main hut three times – as the community believes that the number three, and odd numbers, in general, are good luck – to pay respect to their ancestors. The locals also dress a sacrificial buffalo with accessories during this day.

We took a walk around Ban Khan Don to learn more about their textiles and coffin-making, an unusual sight in Laos where it’s customary to cremate rather than bury the deceased. Families carve wooden coffins for each family member well before their deaths and the intricacy of the coffin design depends on one's rank in the village (or how deep one's pockets are). Near the community house, tourists can also see members of the Talieng ethnic group weaving textiles by hand on looms, an important part of their tradition as well as providing a source of income. The striped lines, geometric stripes and decorative patterns denote both cultural beliefs and important historic events of the tribe.

The provinces of Sekong, Salavan, and Attapeu are known for their numerous waterfalls, leftover

Traditional Katou community house at Salavan

MARCH / APRIL 2020

22

SOUTHERN LAOS

1

UXO collection, cassava industry, and Katou textiles. There are several well-known, and some lesser-known, shops in this region where you can purchase these textiles: Mr. Vieng’s in Salavan, Mr. Khamlay’s in Sekong, and around the morning market in Attapeu. Though there are distinct variations in design and material used, we particularly liked Mr. Khamlay’s natural dyed textiles not only for the traditional Lao sinh, but also for decorations around the house like table runners, rugs, and placemats. While in Sekong, try to visit the lesser-known but equally beautiful Tad Faek located in Lamam District, which got its name from the faek grass that was plentiful in the area before.

We traveled a bit further to the neighboring province of Salavan, which only became an independent province in 1984 when it separated from Sekong, to visit the colorful Wat Kang. Filled with magnificent paintings depicting ancient stories, this pagoda is situated inside a temple complex in the heart of the city center. If you are in the mood for even more textiles, drop by Toumlan District to experience a Katang weaving village, another ethnic group in

GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has daily flights to Pakse from Siem Reap, Vientiane, and Luang Prabang, as well as frequent flights from Bangkok.

Southern Laos. Of course, a trip to Salavan is not complete without a visit to popular Tad Lo and Tad Hang waterfalls.

Discover Attapeu’s border with Vietnam and experience the Ho Chi Minh trail on a dirt bike or their scrumptious local cuisine, particularly the minced pork and herbs steamed inside papaya leaves known generically as “Mouk Moo.” Attapeu is also known for Ginseng, a plant root that has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries.

In Attapeu, you can witness the creation of unique and diverse artifacts of several ethnic tribes, such as the ancient art of pottery making and jewelry of the Talieng ethnic group or the woodworking of the Lavae people. Also, learn more about the matriarchal traditions of the Alak ethnic group and the animism and shamanism rituals of the Ta Oy while you’re here.

After spending some days learning about the ethnic groups of Southern Laos, it’s disheartening to find out that modernity is slowly changing the traditions that have remained unchanged for decades or even hundreds of years. As visitors, we felt fortunate to have gained these insights, while we still could, about the region’s different cultures and customs.

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MORE INFO Sekong Tourism Office for Ban Khan Don: 038211361

Salavan Tourism Office: 034211528 Attapeu Tourism Office: 02097910333 & 02095219842 Tad Lo Tourism Office: 02054455907 Mr. Khamlay's Textile Shop: Whatsapp +856 20 98 287370 Visit southern-laos.com for more information

2 3

Photo: Mr. Khamlay

4

5 1. Tad Lo 2. Lady weaving at Vieng's coffee and homestay 3. Katou textiles at Khamlay's shop 4. Community longhouse at Ban Khan Don 5. Local residents smoking a traditional Katou tobacco pipe (korkder)

MARCH / APRIL 2020

24

SOUTHERN LAOS

1

文化熔炉

纺织品的设计和使用的材料有所不同，我们尤其喜欢“色空省的 Khamlay先生”家的天然染色纺织品，不仅有传统的老挝筒裙，而

翻译 : 尹航 图片来源：SWISSCONTACT / BART VERWEIJ

有桌布，地毯和餐垫等。

老挝最受宠爱的特色之一是其文化的多样性。仅沙拉湾

更多信息：

Khmer）。该地区最大的子族是加藤（Katou）族，主要分

038211361

布在波罗芬高原（巴松，沙拉湾，色空）和阿速坡地区。

为了了解加藤（Katou）族的更多信息，我们从巴色来到 了Khan Don村，该村是位于色空和沙拉湾省之间的多种 族村庄。该村庄以Khan Don 河命名，向他们赖以生存的 母亲河致敬。Khan Don村是几个少数民族的所在地，除

加藤（Katou）族还有如阿拉克（Alak）和恩格（Nge）人。 我们来到了位于村中间的矩形木屋，其内部陈列的史前 古器具让我们感到惊讶。

我们在Khan Don村附近逛逛，了解了他们的纺织品制 作。我们在这发现了一个在老挝不是很常见的现象，老挝

色空省Khan Don村旅游局： 沙拉湾旅游局：034211528

阿速坡旅游局：02097910333或 02095219842

TAD LO旅游局：02054455907

Khamlay先生的纺织品商店： Whatsapp +856 20 98 287370

访问www.southern-laos.com了解 更多信息

习俗是火花而不是你掩埋死者，这里却采用装入棺材掩

到达：老挝航空每天有从暹粒，万象

材设计的复杂程度取决于其在村庄中的等级或其财富。

有抵达巴色的航班。

埋。家庭在家庭成员会为其去世的家人雕刻木制棺材，棺

附近，游客还可以看到塔里昂（TALIENG）族手工编织纺 织品的展示，这是他们传统的重要组成部分，也是他们收 入来源之一。条纹，几何图形和装饰图案既代表着文化信 仰，又描述着部落的重要历史事件。

色空，沙拉湾及阿速坡省以瀑布众多，残留的未爆炸物

（UXO）收藏，木薯产业和加藤（Katou）纺织品而闻名。 该地区有一些有名的商店，也有一些鲜为人知的商店，您

可以采购喜爱的纺织品，如“沙拉湾省Vieng先生”， “色空

省的Khamlay先生”以及阿速坡省的早市附近的商店。

品尝美味的当地美食，特别推荐的是当地人称为“Mouk Moo”这

道美食，猪肉末和香料混在一起，用木瓜叶包裹后蒸煮，十分美味。 阿速坡也因在传统中医中使用了几个世纪的一种植物⸺人参而 出名。

在阿速坡，您可以见证少数民族部落独特而多样的手工创作，如塔

里昂（Talieng）族古老的陶艺和珠宝制作，Alak族的雕木工艺。此

外，您还可以了解到有关Alak族的母系传统以及万物有灵论和Ta Oy的萨满教仪式。

在老挝南部游览几天了解这些少数民族之后，也有些令人沮丧的 发现，那就是现代文明正在慢慢改变着一些几十年甚至几百年未 曾改变的传统。作为访问者，我们很幸运能在这些文化和习俗依然 存在的时候得以见证。

和琅勃拉邦飞往巴色的航班，曼谷也

1. 位于沙拉湾省的传统房子 2. Khamlay 店铺的 Katou族纺 织品

摄影： Khamlay先生

省，就有12个少数民族群，其中大多数属南亚语系（Mon-

探索位于阿速坡省的中越边界，即可体验沿胡志明小路骑行又可

2

The perfect encounter between primitive and pure

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EXPLORE

THE

CHARMS OF

CHAMPHONE Venture off the beaten path into the nature and culture of Savannakhet.

TEXT BY JASON ROLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA / JASON ROLAN above: The Library at Wat Ban Lam Chan 1. Murals and archways at Wat Taleo Kao 2. A sacred softshell turtle 3. Remnants of a temple structure at Wat Taleo Kao 4. Monkeys at Dong Ling

S

ometimes the best things are found where you least expect them. Savannakhet is the most populous province in Laos, yet also one of the least explored, as tourists seldom stray from the pleasant and scenic downtown area of the city. On a recent visit, I was advised to get out and see the real Savannakhet on the Champhone Circuit. To find out what I was missing, I acquired some transport and headed out of town.

Champhone District is quite flat and agrarian. It is marked by the Xe Champhone River which flows from mountains in the north down into the Xe Bang Hiang and onward into the Mekong. My first stop along this route was to admire the wide Soui Reservoir, jokingly called “the ocean of Savannakhet” which contains water for use in the area. It is a charming lake and popular spot on weekends for local people who flock to restaurants on the lakeside and enjoy fresh catches of fish and shellfish.

Driving on a few kilometers, the driver stops. “Monkeys!” he exclaims. We have arrived in Dong Ling – “Monkey Forest”.

These rare animals live in a forest believed to be sacred by local people, so they are given free rein. Local shops must protect them-

29

selves with metal grating, or the cheeky monkeys will steal things and disappear into the forest. I bought a few bunches of bananas and tried to make friends. They were shy at first, but as more and more monkeys approached, I became uneasy and tossed the bunch at them, before jumping back into the van.

Crossing the Xe Champhone River and on to the next village, we came across a real marvel of Lao architecture, Wat Ban Lam Chan. This ancient temple in Lam Chan Village is quite famous for its incredibly tall stilted Ho Tay Pidok library. Traditionally temple manuscripts were etched into palm leaves and bound together into books. As insects love to eat these leaves, libraries were often built on stilts in ponds, so they would be protected from pests. Sadly, many of these grand wooden structures have been lost and this is one of the few remaining. The manuscripts stored here are of such good quality that they are still regularly studied by academics.

Our next stop was another fascinating natural attraction in Don Daeng Village, a lake with sacred softshell turtles! The villagers nearby believe that anyone who disturbs these animals will mysteriously fall sick or die. Visitors often bring traditional Lao snacks to feed the turtles and avoid any bad luck. Local children nearby have a special way of calling the turtles to the surface to get a snack and are happy to help bring them up. A few children followed me and one of them called out in Lao. A turtle appeared, grabbed the food I offered, and then disappeared back into the murky depths. There is also a small

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GETTING THERE Champhone District is located about 45 kilometers southeast of Savannakhet’s downtown area and road conditions can be quite rugged and dusty, so transport with high clearance is recommended.

Lao Airlines has regular flights to Savannakhet from Pakse, Bangkok, and Vientiane.

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Buddhist shrine built in the middle of the lake, but due to local beliefs, only men are allowed inside.

Just a few kilometers north is a striking piece of Lao-Indochinese architecture stained by modern history and one of my favorite stops on this route. In Taleo Village stand the remnants of an old abandoned temple, Wat Taleo Kao. Built about a century ago, the temple was the target of American bombs in 1969 and many of the structures in the temple grounds did not survive. Thankfully, one building remains and houses a trove of folk art paintings on its walls, telling local legends and stories of the Buddha’s life. Temples are not made like this anymore, as Lao people prefer more modern styles of art on their walls, so seeing this one in its original state was quite a treat, if it were not for the sad reason it was abandoned.

The Champhone Circuit really opened up this section of Laos and showed me a great diversity of fascinating historical and natural places. Visitors to the area should look beyond the city center – get out and see the real charms of Savannakhet!

MARCH / APRIL 2020

30

EXPLORE

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Available @ Flagship Store (Behind WatOngTeu-VTE) @ Settha Palace (VTE) @ toineinbangkok (SO Sofitel BKK) @ Café Mademoiselle (Alliance Française-BKK)

Artisan Designer

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Vientiane, Lao PDR

Flagship Store in Vientiane

Photo © Mary Jane

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EXPLORE

1

CHAMPHONE 的魅力

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沙湾拿吉风光及文化的冒险之旅 翻译 : 尹航 图片：PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

到达： Champhone区位于沙湾

有时，最好的东西会在您最不经意间遇到。沙湾拿吉是老

在池塘的高跷上以保护它们免受害虫侵害。可悲的是，许

岖多尘，因此建议轻装上阵。老挝

因为游客很少从城市宜人且风景秀丽的市区先向周边远

储的手稿质量很高，老挝和外国学者仍在定期研学它们。

拿吉市区东南约45公里，路况崎

航空有定期航班从巴色，曼谷和 万象飞往沙湾拿吉。

1. Lam Chan村寺庙图书馆 2. Dong Ling 猴子

挝人口最多的省份，但也是被人们探索最少的省份之一， 行。最近一次到沙湾拿吉，我被建议到周边走走，走出去， 去Champhone环路看看真正的沙湾拿吉。为了遇见我 错过的景色，我找了辆交通工具，出城了。

Champhone区很平坦，农业发达。它以Xe Champhone 河为标志，该河源于北部的山脉流入Xe Bang Hiang 直

至湄公河。沿着这条路线的第一站我选择了开阔的苏伊 水库，这个水库被戏称为“沙湾拿吉特的海洋”，该水库给 整个区域提供用水。对于当地人来说，这是一个迷人的湖

泊，周末很受游客欢迎，他们涌向湖畔的餐馆，享用新鲜 的鱼类和贝类。

在行驶了几公里后，驾驶员停了下来。 “猴子！ ”他喊道。我 们到达了东陵-“猴子森林”。这些稀有动物生活在被当地

人认为是神圣的森林中，因此他们可以自由活动。当地商

店必须用金属栅栏将商店围起来，否则厚脸皮的猴子会 偷东西然后讨回森林。我买了几束香蕉，并试图和他们交

朋友。他们起初很害羞，但是随着越来越多猴子靠近，我 感到了不安，把一整把香蕉都扔给了他们，然后赶快跳上 车离开。

穿过Xe Champhone河到达下一个村庄，我们遇到了令 人惊叹的老挝建筑奇迹，Wat Ban Lam Chan。位于Lam Chan村的这座古庙以其高不可攀的Ho Tay Pidok图书 馆而闻名。古时候，寺庙手稿是在棕榈叶上雕刻的，然后 装订成书。由于昆虫喜欢吃这些叶子，因此图书馆通常建

多宏伟的木结构建筑已丢失，只剩余的少许几个。这里存

我们的下一站是位于Don Daeng村的另一个自然景点， 这里的湖泊住着神圣的软壳龟！附近的村民相信，任何干

扰这些动物的人都会神秘地生病或死亡。访客经常携带 传统的老挝小吃来喂这些软壳龟以祈求平安顺利。当地 儿童有一种特殊的本事，可以将软壳龟叫到水面，喂他们

小吃，帮助幼龟成长。几个孩子跟着我，其中一个用老挝 语大喊，瞬间一只软壳龟出现了，叼走了我们提供的食

物，消失在深暗的湖面。湖中还建有一座小型佛教圣地， 但由于当地的信仰，只允许男性进入。

向北几公里有一座引人注目的老挝-印度支那建筑，虽被

现代历史所染，依然是我在这条路线上最喜欢的停留点 之一。在塔莱欧村（Taleo Village）可以看到古老的废弃 寺院-塔莱古高寺（Wat Taleo Kao）的废墟。这座寺庙建

于大约一个世纪前，也是1969年美国轰炸的目标之一，寺 庙的许多建筑物都没有幸存。值得庆幸的是，一幢建筑物

保留了下来，墙上还藏着许多民间艺术画作，讲述了当地

的传说和佛陀生平的故事。现在寺庙的建造与以往已经 不一样了，老挝人现在更喜欢在墙壁上使用更现代的艺 术风格，因此，如果不是处于不得已的原因而放弃它，那 么看到它的原始状态实在是一种享受。

Champhone环线确实向我们展示了老挝一部分悠久的

历史和自然景观。该地区的游客应该把目光投向市中心 以外的地方-走出去，去看看沙湾拿吉真正的魅力！

THE

ELEPHANT CONSERVATION CENTER Caring for elephants is a jumbo task.

TEXT BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER PHOTOGRAPHS BY PAUL WAGER / ECC / TIBOSTUDIO

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Mahouts at the ECC are among the most knowledgeable in Laos

n a bulge of land on the Nam Tien Lake in remote northwestern Laos is a retreat for elephants, many rescued from punishing logging work. The 34 elephants, including three babies, spend their days eating, bathing, and training to undergo health checks, while scientists contemplate their future.

The Elephant Conservation Center established in 2010, but whose team has been working for the protection of the Asian elephant since 2001, invites visitors to observe these diminutive pachyderms on their own turf. They were also recently granted the Conservation Gold Award by Asian Captive Elephant Standards, an independent auditing service for elephant-based tourism. So I signed up for a three-day program to walk with the elephants, observe their habits, prepare their food, and get a fast-track education about these endangered animals. And, thanks to a new fast road from Luang Prabang to the center in Sayaboury province, plus door-to-door service provided by the ECC, the trip was seamless end to end.

Laos, once known as “the Land of a Million Elephants” today faces a critical situation: only around 400 captive elephants remain and around 300 survive in the wild.

Over coffee, in the center’s open-sided restaurant our guide, Mr. Pong, explains that wild Asian elephants face existential threats due to loss of habitat through deforestation, and poaching: elephants are in high demand for their skin, bone, and tusks. And captive elephants, once working in the logging industry are now unemployed, as the government outlawed logging in 2016. There are few safe natural habitats left for Elephas Maximus. Too few babies are being born, too.

“Historically, mahouts didn’t want their female elephants to get pregnant as they can’t work for all 22 months of gestation,” Mr. Pong tells us “but the ECC is trying to change that with a new breeding program to ensure the future of the Asian elephant in Laos.”

While elephants spend 17 hours a day eating 200 kg of plants and gulping 80–200 liters of water, we humans have more regular dining hours. We hiked over a jungly hill for our lunch in a bungalow overlooking a secluded corner of the lake. In the distance, we heard trumpeting and turned to see several elephants stuffing banana trees into their mouths. The group snorted and dribbled, and five-year-old baby Do Khoun Meuang squealed before sinking completely into the water. It was magical to watch.

Back at camp, we examined outdated instruments, training hooks to persuade the animals to move onetwo ton logs long distances each day, and howdahs which used to carry humans on elephant backs, MARCH / APRIL 2020

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WILDLIFE

before going on to meet vet assistant Mr. Kan at his training station outside the ECC’s health clinic. Here elephants are taught how to lift their foot, step on scales, and open their mouths for check-ups using “positive reinforcement” techniques.

Behind the clinic, an elephant skeleton towered over us, and Mr. Kan used the mammoth display to help deliver a class in unusual facts: elephants sport three eyelids like crocodiles; their teeth are replaced six times over their lifetimes; their penis weighs 27 kg, and is a meter long.

My mind boggled.

Visitors on the three-day stay watch Mr. Kan at work with his trainees: he slaps the behind of female Mae Khoun Two so she lifts her tail; and he checks her mouth, tusks, and ears. She doesn’t seem to mind as she’s trunk-deep in a food basket while Mr. Kan fusses.

This training must help when visitors are allowed to approach. In a teak patch, below the clinic, we’re invited to get a close-up view of the fascinating wobbly lower lip.

The sound of banana stalk being crunched, watching the gaping mouth, hairy chin, candy pink inner lip, pink speckled ear tips, long eyelashes, and wrinkled elbow skin – just like ours – before they meander down to the lake to bathe is all grippingly interesting.

We also need freshening up, and head to settle into our thatch-roofed bungalows with gorgeous lake views. From my terrace, I watch a deep rose-pink sunset; framed by bamboo sprays, sink behind the hills as kayakers’ strokes wrinkled the glassy sheen of the lake below.

GETTING THERE The Elephant Conservation Center is located in Sayaboury Province.

Transfers from Luang Prabang are available.

MORE INFO Support the ECC through Eat like an Elephant: look for restaurants across offering vegetarian menus with proceeds devoted to the Center: elephantconservationcenter.com/eat-likean-elephant

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Before a communal dinner of rice noodle soup, Spanish biologist Anabel López Pérez talked to our group about the future of Asian elephants in Laos.

“If we don’t change the situation, there’ll be no Asian elephants in Laos in 50 years,” she says.

“If we want to save the elephants, we have to save the forest. We are not magicians…but the fight starts today.”

Part of that fight involves releasing elephants back into the wild but before that can happen elephants must socialize together. We witnessed this on our next morning. After a hike over hills walking behind the elephants that step over huge piles of turd and unleash waterfalls of piss, we watch eightmonth pregnant Mae Kham Ohn stand shoulder to shoulder with Mae Ven and Mae Khian. They poke trunks into each other’s mouths to check each other out, trumpet, purr, growl, and scratch with their trunks and chin. It was hypnotic, and the highlight of my trip being able to watch them bonding from just a few feet away.

On our last morning, we helped prepare sensorial enrichment – papaya, rice, pumpkin, flowers, bananas, and salts – a technique that reduces stress and encourages new elephants to socialize.

We hide food under wood, in trees, and on poles in an enclosure, then observe the animals from an observation post as they tear up tires and planks for the nosh.

It was a privilege to take part in the center even only for a few days. As Mr. Pong reminded us: “The ECC’s approach – ecotourism for working elephants – is a good solution, to safeguard the animals’ future.”

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她说： “如果我们不改变现状，那么50年后老挝就不会有亚洲象了。 ”

“如果我们要拯救大象，就必须拯救森林。这个目标不会马上实 现……但是必须从今天就开始改变。 ”

该保护中心计划将大象放回野外，但在此之前，大象必须在这里一 起社交。我们在第二天早晨目睹了这一场景。跟随大象在后山丘徒

步，我们看着怀孕的两头大象Mae Kham Ohn与Mae Ven和Mae

Khian并肩站立。它们将树干戳入彼此的嘴巴以相互检查，并用树 干和下巴互相刮擦。在几英尺之外看着大象们互相交流，交朋友也 成了我这次旅行的亮点，那真是太美了。

虽然参加保护中心的活动只有几天，但是非常荣幸之至。正如庞先

生提醒我们的那样： “ 大象保护中心的保护方法是：把大象做为主 题的生态游。这是未来一个很好的保护动物的解决方法。 ”

到达：大象保护中心位于沙耶武里省。 提供往返琅勃拉邦的接送服务。 elephantconservationcenter.com

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大象保护中心 照料大象是一项艰巨的任务

翻译 : 尹航 图片来源：PAUL WAGER / ECC / TIBOSTUDIO

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在老挝西北偏远地区的南田湖畔有一处大象的隐居之所

（大象保护中心），许多大象是从艰苦繁重的伐木工作中

获救之后来到这里生活的。这里有34头大象，其中有3个

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小象宝宝，每天在这里饮食，戏水，检查身体，它们未来的 安排就交给这里的科学家和全社会去思考了。

大象保护中心成立于2010年，团队自2001年以来一直致 力于保护亚洲象的工作。最近，团队还获得了亚洲圈养

大象标准的保护金奖，亚洲圈养大象标准是一个专门针 对以大象为旅游业务的独立监管服务机构。我报名参加 了为期三天的旅行安排，与大象同行，观察它们的生活习 性，了解这些濒临灭绝的动物，并为它们准备了食物。

老挝曾经被称之为 “万象之国” 。 如今大象面临着严峻的生存 问题： 具统计老挝现在仅存约400头圈养大象， 300头野象。

1. Forming long lasting herds of elephants is ECC's most pressing goal 2. Nam Tien Lake. In the background, "Phou Xang", the Elephant Mountain 3. ECC's veterinarian Mr. Kan explaining elephants' anatomy 4. Mr. Kan performing care on a new rescued elephant 5. ECC offers over 6,000 ha. of pastures to 34 elephants

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在保护中心的餐厅，我们的向导庞先生解释说，野生亚洲

象由于砍伐森林和偷猎而丧失了栖息地，因此面临着严 重的人为造成的威胁，而且大象的皮肤，骨骼和象牙在市

面上有着很高的需求。曾经在伐木业工作的圈养大象现

在已经失业，因为政府在2016年宣布了伐木为非法行为。 目前几乎没有安全的自然栖息地供大象使用，而且新生 的大象宝宝也很少。我还了解到，大象每天要进食200公 斤的植物，喝80-200升水，耗时近17个小时！

我们深入森林到大象生活的区域徒步，并在可以俯瞰湖 泊小屋里午餐。在忙忙碌碌的照顾和了解大象中，度过了 充实的一天，现在终于可以回到小屋放松一下，欣赏湖

景。在阳台上，我看到了美丽的日落，皮划艇荡漾在洒满 余晖的湖面。

在集体米粉晚餐之前，西班牙生物学家安娜贝尔•洛佩 斯•佩雷斯（AnabelLópezPérez）向我们小组介绍了亚 洲象在老挝的未来。

MARCH / APRIL 2020

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WILDLIFE

SNAPSHOT

DISCOVER CENTRAL VIETNAM PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA / AARON JOEL SANTOS / CHRISTIAN BERG TEXT BY JASON ROLAN

A

t the end of March, Lao Airlines inaugurates flights between Vientiane and Danang, the hub of Central Vietnam. Beyond Danang’s stunning beaches, this area is also culturally fascinating and diverse enough to warrant deeper exploration around the area, as well as to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Hoi An to the south and the former royal capital of Hue to the north. From a weekend excursion to a week’s stay, Central Vietnam ticks all of the boxes, as it has something for everyone.

Danang's Golden Bridge

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SNAPSHOT

1

DANANG Wedged between a long sandy beach and the Annamite Mountains, and blessed with a deep port, Danang has become the largest city in Central Vietnam. It was settled long ago by the Cham people who left behind great stone monuments. Later, French, Portuguese, and Spanish traders frequented the port of Danang in their quest for trade and colonies. More recently, the area gained fame as a rest and recreation area during the Indochina War, which has helped make it the leisure destination it is today.

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1. The Linh Ung Pagoda sits on a hilly slope overlooking the Bay of Danang and is the largest pagoda in Central Vietnam. It was built where a Buddha statue was miraculously found.

2. One of the beautiful beaches of Danang. These are very popular getaways for local and foreign tourists alike.

3. The huge 67-meter Lady Buddha statue at Linh Ung Pagoda.

There are 17 oors inside the statue with altars for worship on each one.

4. A cool 1500 meters above sea level, Ba Na Hill Station was founded by French colonists as a way to escape the summer heat.

It has since become a popular tourist spot with cable cars and this new Instagrammable feature: the Golden Bridge.

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44

SNAPSHOT

45

HOI AN It is easy to fall in love with the photogenic charms of this UNESCO protected town. The Old Quarter of the town dates from the 16th and 17th centuries when Portuguese, Dutch, Japanese, Chinese, and Indian powers set up trading posts here. Once Vietnam became French Indochina, the trading center moved to Danang and Hoi An was largely forgotten which helped retain its incredible architectural heritage!

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1. The yellow ocher buildings of the downtown area of Hoi An are a joy to explore.

The winding streets and alleyways are full of surprising beauty.

2. The famous Japanese Bridge crosses a small canal in Hoi An. In the center of the bridge is a small Buddhist shrine.

MARCH / APRIL 2020

46

SNAPSHOT

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1. One of the beautiful gates guarding the entrance of the Imperial Palace.

2. Outside of town is a fabulous complex of elaborate burial sites for the royal family. This is the gate to one of the ornate tombs.

3. The Hall of Supreme Harmony holds the ceremonial throne used in the coronation of the emperor.

4. In Hue’s Perfume River, boats decorated like dragons oer tours and dinner shows for tourists visiting this charming city.

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HUE The former capital of the Emperors of Vietnam, Hue still maintains a lot of its royal aura. The centerpiece of town is the large walled Citadel ringed by a moat, which houses the Imperial Palace and the Purple Forbidden City. In the vicinity are also pagodas, museums, and traditional artisans carrying on their unique heritage.

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STYLE

THE ART OF THE TABLE Use traditional items to spark elegance in your home.

TEXT BY VANIDA PHIMPHRACHANH & DOMINIQUE LE ROUX PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA SCENOGRAPHY & STYLING BY BIRDS FOLLOW SPRING AT ISLAND APARTMENTS

BUCOLIC CELEBRATION Handwoven rugs from the Luang Prabang Night Market Naturally dyed placemats and napkins from Gaebi Studio (gaebi.co.kr)

H

ere in Laos, we are inspired by the pleasures of convivial gatherings with guests and relatives around a simple but generous table.

Local markets provide us an array of extremely affordable everyday objects such as woven rugs, wooden trays used for cooling sticky rice, and the ubiquitous sticky rice baskets.

Go ahead and use them a little differently, especially in combination with unique pieces of crockery crafted from raw and sensuous materials and the understated radiance of local cotton textiles in natural colors.

A set table not only elevates the pleasures of our own everyday meals but ensures we are always ready to welcome surprise guests.

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REPURPOSED EVERYDAY OBJECTS above: Wooden tray sold in local markets or along the road in open trucks Tea set with unique baked earth bowls from Amazingworx (facebook.com/

amazingworx) left: Try new uses for common items to bring a sense of wonder and inspiration

MARCH / APRIL 2020

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STYLE

THE SIMPLICITY AND SENSUALITY OF RAW MATERIALS

right: Terracotta tableware traditionally used for preparing papaya salad from Amazingworx Cutlery made from recycled bombs from TaiBaan crafts (taibaancrafts.com) Glasses from Le Comptoir de Vientiane (facebook.com/LeComptoirdeVientiane) Natural hued placemats from Gaebi Studio

below: Traditional handwoven bamboo table basketry from The Little House (facebook: The Little House Vientiane) Enamel tableware from Le Comptoir de Vientiane Indigo apron from Gaebi Studio

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OPEN BAR

above: Ceramics from Le Comptoir de Vientiane Set of bowls braided in silver from Caruso Lao

right: Hand lacquered wooden boxes from Birdsfollowspring X MDOstudio The intricate hem of a Lao sinh from Oudone precious silk (facebook:

oudoneprecioussilk) to dress the stool

MARCH / APRIL 2020

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STYLE

THE ELEGANCE OF NOBLE MATERIALS Local crafts can be used in contemporary interiors as a patchwork of precious woods mixed with the silky taffeta effects of handwoven and traditional techniques.

Try blending antique objects with local handicrafts to create a unique luxurious style.

above: Candleholders and ebony containers with silver rings from Caruso Lao

(carusolao.com) Book lamp by toineinbangkok (toineinbangkok.com) Decoration in handwoven silk from Oudone Precious Silk

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WARM AND PLUSH

right : Spice set from Caruso Lao (carusolao.com)

below: Aromatic candles inspired by wine notes from Wine Haus Laos (facebook: Wine Haus Laos) Wooden tray in recycled wood and triptych mirror from Birds Follow Spring (facebook.com/birdsfollowspring)

MARCH / APRIL 2020

Eating

Ping Kai

seasoned chicken grilled over aming charcoal

LIKE A

local

Jeo Mak Len

a classic tomato dip sauce spiced with herbs and chili

Khiep Moo

crispy fried pork rinds

Tam Mak Hoong

fundamental Lao dish, utilizing fresh unripe papaya tossed into a salad with fermented ďŹ sh sauce, cherry tomatoes, and lime

Remark: food seen here is displayed for commercial effect. Actual presentation and portion of dishes will vary.

Ping Moo

sliced savory charcoal-grilled pork

Khao Niew

sticky rice served in a small bamboo basket

Fresh vegetables

fresh cabbage, morning glory, and other seasonal vegetables open daily +856 21215777 @Kualao kualaorestaurant.com

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ADVENTURE

4000 ISLANDS

THE

BY

KAYAK

Get up close and personal with the mighty Mekong.

TEXT BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER PHOTOGRAPHS BY SWISSCONTACT / BART VERWEIJ / PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

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T

he 4000 Islands in southern Laos, low lying sandy clumps in the Mekong River, are famous for their easy-going pace, ba nana pancakes, afternoons in hammocks, dolphin-spotting opportunities, wide-sky sunsets, and raucous parties.

I’ve cycled over traces of the old French railway tracks through mango and teak forests, walked the slow loop of sandy trails wriggling through the islands’ small communities, and flitted about from one vestige of French power to another, to bar, to café, and guesthouse many times. I’d never considered taking to the water, though, until now.

The Mekong River can look formidable at times – a fast-flowing wide milk chocolate brown river cut with rocky islands and drowned trees. But a kayaking trip sounded exciting, and with a chance to spot the area’s rare Irrawaddy dolphins, too, I eagerly signed up.

Green Paradise’s kayaking expedition wisely includes free breakfast for its mainly land-lubber clientele. After fuelling up with baguette, egg, and thick Lao coffee at a restaurant on Don Det island, we grabbed life jackets and tucked into our kayaks.

Hoping to halve the work of paddling, I jumped into a kayak with our guide, Mr. Sam. Patient Mr. Sam spent a good deal of time barking ‘right, right’ as our crew of 21 – Brits, Australians, Dutch, French, and Hungarians – took to the water like ducks, I mean clumsy humans, grappling with kayak balance, water flow, and huge thickets of vegetation that reared up unexpectedly.

Paddlers voyaging on the Mekong

MARCH / APRIL 2020

60

ADVENTURE

Our first destination was downstream at Don Khone Island’s Pa Soi rapids. Early on we temporarily lost part of the group, one kayak team fell into the river, and one kayak got sucked into a cluster of bushes and became entangled. The heat was unforgiving but we giggled at these mishaps and continued on our journey navigating clumps of trees and mini islands. We parked up just before Pa Soi rapids and walked over a bridge to look at the frothing water below.

The kayaks had been moved beyond Pa Soi Falls to a safe spot; we boarded them again for a journey to the bottom of Khone Island. At Hang Khone village, at the tip of Khone Island, we packed into a longtail boat to head upstream in search of the critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphin.

We clambered up the sandy hill of a large island and looked across the stream of the fast-flowing river. The dolphins, their wet skin glistening in the sun, surfaced and ducked as they searched for fish in the food-rich pools. It was thrilling to catch a glimpse of these rare mammals. The WWF reports there’s been a slight increase in their numbers in the Mekong in Cambodia from 80 in 2015 to 92 in 2017 but not in Laos.

In the Lao Mekong, there are just three.

While munching on a lunch of baguette, chicken, and fried rice we saw all three of them about 30 to 40 times – all fins, snouts, sleek metal-grey bodies gleaming in the strong sun.

Back at Khone Island we fetched our kayaks and headed out downriver to a pickup point on the mainland at Ban Veunkham.

The sun was crippling but, like a miracle, there on the riverbank at Ban Veunkham

1

GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has daily flights to Pakse from Vientiane, Luang Prabang, and Bangkok. The 4000 Islands are 3 hours south of Pakse by road.

MORE INFO greenparadisetravel.com 1. Palm trees line the island shores 2. Paddlers head out in search of freshwater dolphins 3. The 4000 Islands from above

2

was a stall with a packed icebox. We cleaned it out of Beerlao and Coke before boarding a truck to visit the mother of all waterfalls – the kilometers-wide Khone Phapheng Falls.

At first sight, you can see why it defeated French colonial explorers. It’s a seething, frothing mass of thundering water swirling over sturdy boulders as it fights to enter Cambodia and the lower Mekong. The French found themselves in these parts when they were shoring up claims to the river and their Indochina colonies. The French needed to move gunboats into position to defend new territorial claims but navigating past the raging Khone Phapheng Falls – with its 21-meter drop – had defeated French minds. They built a railway across Khone Island, directly west of the Phapheng Falls, so two gunboats could be hauled across it; the railway infrastructure (some of which we saw at Hang Khone village) was later adapted for commercial traffic with steamboats on the river thrown into the mix. When roads were built in the 1930s the railway fell into disuse. Today, rusty locomotives stand abandoned at the edge of paddy fields, the last tangible remnants of island railway traffic.

After ice cream – more energy – we boarded our kayaks at Nakasang village to paddle downstream and back to Don Det Island. As the rose-pink sun began to set, the light was beautiful, the water appeared like silk, clumps of greenery took on a velvet glow, and fishermen were pootling about in pirogues.

Of course, after so much exercise, we replenished our muscles with more sundowner Beerlao as soon as we clambered back on to dry land!

四千美岛皮划艇之旅 与壮美的湄公河亲密接触 翻译 : 尹航

图片：绿色天堂旅行社 / PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

位于老挝南部的四千美岛是一片散落在湄公河上12公里大大小小的岛屿。 四千美岛以其缓慢的生活节奏， 美味的食物，慵懒的午后吊床，有幸偶遇河 豚和美丽的日落而闻名。

我骑着自行车经过法国人修建的铁路，穿过貌美的芒果林和柚木林，行驶在

多条环线农舍的沙路小径，来到酒吧，咖啡馆最后到达旅馆。这时我才刚刚 想起来喝口水。

因为湄公河有时候看起来很具有挑战性⸺一条快速流动的宽阔河面，被多

岩石的岛屿和淹没的树木割断。皮划艇之旅听起来很刺激，而且有机会看到 该地区稀有的伊洛瓦底河豚，所以，我报了名。

绿色天堂的皮划艇探险之旅为参加者提供免费早餐。 在Don Det岛上的一 家餐馆享用了法棍面包，鸡蛋和浓浓的老挝咖啡后，我们拿起救生衣登上皮 划艇。我和向导同乘一条皮划艇。

我们的第一个目的地是Don Khone岛Pa Soi急流段的下游。那天天气很热， 我们在树木群和小岛间穿梭航行。我们将车和皮划艇停靠在Pa Soi急流段的 上方，然后走过一座桥去观察下面汹涌的河水。

皮划艇被移至PaSoi急流以下安全地点之后我们才再次登上它，前往Khone 岛下游。在Khone岛南端的Hang Khone村，我们换乘着一条长尾船，寻找

濒临灭绝的伊洛瓦底河豚。我们爬到一座大沙丘， 注视着快速流动的河水。 河豚，浮出水面了！河豚在寻找食物，它们银色的皮肤在阳光下闪闪发光。瞥 见这些稀有哺乳动物，真是令人兴奋。

回到Khone岛，我们再次登上皮划艇，直达下游的Veunkham村，在那里我 们乘坐一辆卡车，参观老挝最大的瀑布-宽阔的Khone Phapheng瀑布。

在这里第一眼您就会明白它为什么征服了法国殖民时期的探险者。当年轰 轰隆隆的河水敲打着局势，翻滚着涌入位于下游柬埔寨境内的湄公河。当法

国人在印度支那扩展殖民地时，需要在这里将炮艇放到适当位置，越过湄

公河以夺取更多领土，但是，当他们见到汹涌的、且落差高达21米的Khone Phapheng瀑布时，法国人放弃了。法国人在这里还修建了一条铁路，横穿

Khone Phapheng瀑布以西的Khone岛，用来将两艘炮艇运送到对岸。该段 铁路（其中一段我们在Hang

Khone村看到了）后来经过改修，被当地人同

蒸汽船一起用作商业运输。1930年代修建公路后，铁路就不再使用了。如今， 废弃生锈的机车，变成岛上铁路运输的最后见证。

我们回到Don Det岛。玫瑰粉红色的太阳开始落山，光线很美，渔民穿梭在像 丝绸一样的河面上。

到达：老挝航空每日有从万象，琅勃拉邦和曼谷到巴色的航班。 四千美岛距离巴色以南三 小时车程。

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3

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64

WINTER TIMETABLE 2019 / 2020

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SAVANNAKHET

LUANGPRABANG

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FLIGHT ROUTES

WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su

10:30

-

12:30

QV811

07:40

-

Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25

PAKSE

13:25

QV535

09:25

09:45

1

ບາງກອກ -

10:55

QV223

AT7

0

ໂຮຈີມິນ -

11:20

QV515

DOMESTIC AT7 0 ROUTES

ສຽມຣຽບ

> SIEMREAP

SAVANNAKHET

A320

DAY

D

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su

1

ສິງກະໂປ W F Su

14

Transit (VTE) Arr

> HO CHI MINH T Th S

0

Dep. 09:30

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

AT7

ສິງກະໂປ

> SINGAPORE W F Su

S.

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

11

ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S

12

ສຽມຣຽບ

Daily

13:00

-

14:00

QV513

AT7

0

Daily

14

T Th

08:55

-

09:55

QV511

AT7

0

T Th

10

ບາງກອກ

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

08:25

-

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55

10:55

QV223

AT7

1

Dep. 09:25

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

1

Transit (PKZ) Arr

DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

VIENTIANE FLIGHT ROUTES

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

S.

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

> LUANGPRABANG

DAY

D

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

Daily

09:10

-

10:00

QV111

AT7

0

M T Th S

07

Daily

11:30

-

12:15

QV101

A320

0

W F Su

07

T W Th S Su 13:00

-

13:45

QV105

A320

0

Daily

13

T W Th S Su

14

M T Th S

17:00

-

17:45

QV103

A320

0

M W F Su

18

W F Su

17:00

-

17:45

QV536

A320

0

T Th S

18

> LUANGNAMTHA

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LAO AIRLINES PARTNERS

WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su

10:30

-

12:30

QV811

07:40

-

Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25

PAKSE

13:25

QV535

09:25

09:45

1

ບາງກອກ -

10:55

QV223

AT7

0

ໂຮຈີມິນ -

11:20

QV515

AT7

0

ສຽມຣຽບ

> SIEMREAP

SAVANNAKHET

A320

DAY

D

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su

1

ສິງກະໂປ W F Su

14

Transit (VTE) Arr

> HO CHI MINH T Th S

0

Dep. 09:30

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

AT7

ສິງກະໂປ

> SINGAPORE W F Su

S.

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

11

ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S

12

ສຽມຣຽບ

Daily

13:00

-

14:00

QV513

AT7

0

Daily

14

T Th

08:55

-

09:55

QV511

AT7

0

T Th

10

ບາງກອກ

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

08:25

-

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55

10:55

QV223

AT7

1

Dep. 09:25

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

1

Transit (PKZ) Arr

DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

VIENTIANE

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

S.

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

> LUANGPRABANG

DAY

D

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

Daily

09:10

-

10:00

QV111

AT7

0

M T Th S

07

Daily

11:30

-

12:15

QV101

A320

0

W F Su

07

T W Th S Su 13:00

-

13:45

QV105

A320

0

Daily

13

T W Th S Su

14

M T Th S

17:00

-

17:45

QV103

A320

0

M W F Su

18

W F Su

17:00

-

17:45

QV536

A320

0

T Th S

18

> LUANGNAMTHA

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

ຍງ່ິບນ ິ ຫາຼຍ, ຍງ່ິມສ ີ ດ ິ ທພ ິ ເິສດຫາຼຍ

*:

*

6

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Official Lao Airlines Inflight Magazine

MARCH / APRIL 2020