Let's Eat Magazine | The Sweet & Savory Sides of Spring | 2016

The Call of the Donut Bacon: The Culinary Chameleon The Mystery Behind RosĂŠ

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The Sweet & Savory Sides of Spring MARCH| APRIL 2016

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Today’s Menu MARCH | APRIL 2016 Morsels from the Editor The Call of the Donut Coral Gables: Number1 Best Foodie City, as rated by Livability.com 2016 Miami Herald South Florida Food 50, Evan Benn, Miami Herald | INDULGE Magazine Bacon: The Culinary Chameleon The Mystery Behind Rosé, by Jacqueline Coleman, Sommelier Food 4 Thought with Gail Sosby & Robert Klemm Owners / Operators, Amore Gelato Art Caffé

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MORSELS FROM THE EDITOR It is hard to believe that we have come to the end of our first full year of Let’s Eat Magazine with this, our fourth issue.

SCENES FROM BURGERLISCIOUS 2015

Our goal from the outset was to produce three gorgeous print publications, each focused on a foodie event in the Gables, while showcasing the diverse cuisine offered by our more than 150 local restaurants.

The central themes included Coral Gables Restaurant Week, Miami Spice and Burgerliscious, three amazing events that celebrate the culinary scene in The City Beautiful, and beyond.

And yet, there is tremendous energy related to the fabulous and festive fare that is omnipresent in our neighborhood, including the most recently wrapped South Beach Wine and Food Festival.

While it may seem to be world’s away on Miami Beach, make no mistake about it, our Gables restaurants are involved, engaged and a critical component to its success. Even Lee Schrager, SOBEWFF maestro extraordinaire, has recently landed in the Gables in a beautiful French Country Village home.

The Swine & Wine event at The Biltmore Hotel each festival is always a sold-out affair starring the porcine in a leading role. This year, we honor Ortanique’s Cindy Hutson on her victory. And thus, we decided to take a deeper dive this issue into the culinary chameleon that is bacon.

Which, of course, made us think of other fare that is all the rage, including the mighty donut. If you have been in Wynwood on a weekend, you may have seen a line stretched around the block from a rather non-descript pop-up selling – wait for it – designer donuts.

These artisanal pastries are all the rage and foretell a future where the donut is no longer just for breakfast any more. Maple with bacon, guava with cheese or the designer Samoa beckon the most discriminating consumer to the Salty Donut, among others, including old stand-bys like Velvet Creme and Dunkin Donuts!

And, on March 31st, our friends at Vine Communications will be hosting the first Donut Festival here in Miami which makes me feel a tad bit glazed and confused. Do we know how to celebrate the creative pleasure that is food here in the Gables? The answer is simply (and deliciously), yes.

We close this bonus issue with some of the greatest hits from our friend Evan Benn, the newly minted Editor of Indulge Magazine, who recently shared this year’s Top 50 Foodies, featuring some of our local faves and the biggest names in the Coral Gables culinary scene. Congratulations Evan and to all of our stars!

Yes, this issue may only exist in the cloud – but the truth is your stomach will growl just as loudly as if you held it squarely in your hands. I promise you, there are some good eats in the following issue. The upside? You won’t accidentally lick the page.

Hungrily Yours,

MARK A. TROWBRIDGE, PRESIDENT & CEO CORAL GABLES CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Photos provided by SnapHappy Photos

Remember, it is our solemn quest to position Coral Gables as a place to live, work, learn and play…and of course eat!

JESSICA WILCOX, OWNER MONEYCLIP DIRECT & PUBLISHER, LETʼS EAT MAGAZINE | sales@letseatmiami.com | (305)962.9313

I

Donut

The Call of the

A few years ago, there was an explosion of designer cupcake joints that asked the age old question – can a sugary dessert “cakelette” be considered gourmet? Could it stand up against the tried-and-true cake? I think the answer was a resounding (and delicious) YES! Purchasing a dozen cupcakes at Publix for $4.99 to take to a kiddie party or baby shower is no longer going to be good enough. Each cupcake needs to be lovingly made, beautifully topped, separately boxed, wrapped with a bow and marked up 500%! The cupcake has suddenly become substantial and legitimate – so much so that it often replaces the cake at a wedding, Quinceañera or Sweet 16! It makes for a great take-away, too, given its portable size. It has standing…literally…sometimes several feet high!

As the cupcake trend (and a few stores) waned or re-branded, we have been in search of the next big bakery item – a hot ticket to sugarland. Macarons surged to the front of the pack for a tad - those colorful, sophisticated, albeit international cousins to the moon pie - but now all signs lead to something even more omnipresent, if that were even possible.

Enter stage right... the donut!

If my Facebook feed is any indication of the latest food trends, then you need to eat at least two donuts a day (even if you are not a member of law enforcement), preferably with either sea salt or bacon incorporated into the craftsmanship. Yes, please. May I have two more!

According to the Washington Post, donuts are no longer viewed exclusively as breakfast food unceremoniously dumped at the end of a credenza at a board meeting. They are no longer the quick and easy solution to fueling your morning or satisfying that sugar fix. They are not merely the betrothed to a cup of java.

As I can attest, my fellow Americans are shunning sugary choices in the morning for healthier fare (think protein bars, kale shakes and – gulp flax seeds). Yet, donut sales are up, evolving into a treat to be enjoyed just about any time of day (or late night – thank you Krispy Kreme for keeping the neon light on for us all these years).

USA Today offers up some staggering statistics. Americans eat more than 10 billion donuts per year or about 31 donuts per person per year. That’s Billion…with a B! Now, I have given up my sugary friend in any form (designer or off-the-rack), so that means someone else is devouring at least 62 per year. I want names!

Perhaps your next dinner party or Bar Mitzvah or baby shower will feature donuts as the main dessert (so long cupcake). The thought makes me smile with true joy in my heart (donuts come in that shape, too).

Thirty-one donuts per person per year. That’s too many donuts – said no one ever!

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B

1 Best Foodie City

No.

named a semifinalist for James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef: South Category in 2015, a follow-up to his “Rising Star Best Chef” acknowledgement in 2013.

He has also opened Glass & Vine in Coconut Grove’s Peacock Park, hearkening back to the turn of the last, last century when the pioneering Peacock family ran We like to say that Coral Gables tastes as good as it a bayside inn. looks.

The brunch menu at Eating House features Cap’n Our tree-lined boulevards, stately homes covered in Crunch pancakes and eggs Benedict carbonara, ivy and gardens dotted with bougainvillea, Mediter- which keeps a steady stream of hungry customers ranean-style architecture and the historic rock coming back each Sunday. quarry that is Venetian Pool make Coral Gables one Miracle Mile, considered Main and Main and the focal of the most delicious looking cities on the 2015 Livapoint of Coral Gables’ downtown district, contains bility.com’s foodie cities list. Strict zoning codes and many of the city’s most popular restaurants, includstringent building standards ensure that the City ing Ortanique, Tarpon Bend Raw Bar, Uvaggio Wine Beautiful doesn’t lose its visual appeal, either.

Bar & Restaurant, and Janette & Co., which sells fresh macarons and French pastries.

Chefs in Coral Gables are held to the same high standards, often being judged by their counterparts in The more than 150 restaurants in Coral Gables give Miami and around South Florida. A writer for the residents and visitors a variety of menus to consider, Miami New Times has stated, “Coral Gables heralds a and a high percentage of them frequent locally cool era of dining. There are cocktails, funky foods owned eateries over national chains, although those and young chefs.” We could not agree more! do very well in the Gables, too (think: Hillstone and Seasons 52).

The City's range of outstanding restaurants, led by such favorites as The Local, BULLA Gastrobar, Eating The farmers market, open from late January through House and Ortanique, help attract discerning diners the end of March in front of City Hall in George Merwith a refined palate. And, with the availability of rick Park, allows residents to pick up fresh produce healthy foods across the culinary spectrum, helped and baked goods, as well as gourmet specialty foods make Coral Gables Livability.com’s top pick out of ranging from guacamole and fish dips to sushi, fresh the Best Foodie Cities 2015. breads and guava bars.

CORAL GABLES

Coral Gables restaurants and chefs have long been recognized by the cooking elite, with such standouts as Cindy Hutson, Norman Van Aken, Alberto Cabrera and Allen Susser having hung their aprons up at one time in the City Beautiful.

And of course, there are the annual foodie events, such as Burgerliscious, the beeftopia of burgers held each fall in Ponce Circle Park, as well as Giralda Under the Stars, a winter-time event where patrons can enjoy a variety of restaurants all fresco, while dining.

Among the most recent attention getters is Eating With all these ingredients, it is easy to see why the House Miami chef Giorgio Rapicavoli, who was City Beautiful has never looked – or tasted – better!

When it came time to compile this year’s Miami Herald Food & Dining special section, I gave myself two options: Find 50 all new South Florida food-and-beverage pros to honor, or piece together a list of the area’s best restaurants.

I went with people over restaurants. People have more interesting stories than restaurants. People have the ability to transform restaurants, breweries, chocolate shops, gas stations and vacant lots into neighborhood hangouts, into homes-away-from-home, into places we haveto take visitors.

Much like last year’s South Florida Food 50, the all new 2016 class is full of chefs, restaurateurs, hospitality experts, beverage specialists and power couples who are raising our culinary prominence and making South Florida a better place to eat and drink.

This year’s Food 50 winners share a common thread in that they all make us rethink something we thought we knew.

We thought steakhouse chefs were portly men, until Julia Doyne stepped in as the first woman to lead Miami Beach’s legendary The Forge.

We thought some of the original Mango Gang members had begun to slow down, until we found out all that Norman Van Aken and Allen Susser are cooking.

We thought upscale hotel restaurants were stuffy and staid, until Aaron Brooks started roasting pigs caja china-style and having a ball at locals-favorite Edge Steak & Bar. We thought Thai food in Miami was mostly noodles and grease with a side of sushi, until Phuket “Cake” Thongsodchareondee showed us the real deal.

We thought we had tasted beer before, until Johnathan Wakefield blew our minds with his subtropical sours.

We thought there were no French restaurants in Hialeah, until Sandy Sanchez and Benoit Rablat came (back) to town.

We thought Jewish delis shied away from shellfish and swine, until Joshua Marcus toyed with tradition in the most delicious way.

We thought plant-based food at an open lot sounded like hipster hooey, until Della Heimanand her Della Bowls at Wynwood Yard charmed us with its good flavors and good vibes.

You’ll find their stories and more in this year’s Food 50 profiles. Keep in mind that it’s an unranked list - all winners are equally important.

And for those lists of best restaurants (and ones to avoid)? Check out Miami.com Dining Adviser - dine.miami.com - for the latest Miami Herald restaurant reviews, plus up-to-the-minute health inspections, including emergency shutdowns.

Miami Herald food editor & INDULGE Magazine editor in chief Evan Benn. Al Diaz Miami Herald staff.

2016 South Florida Food 50 Miami Herald

CHEFS 1. Julia Doyne, The Forge 2. Ivan Dorvil, Ivan’s Cookhouse 3. Adri Garcia, Verde Kitchen Café 4. Aaron Brooks, Edge Steak & Bar 5. Gregory Pugin, Palme d’Or 6. Nunzio Fuschillo, Bocce Ristorante 7. Dewey Losasso, RedLander Restaurant 8. Sean Brasel, Meat Market 9. Makoto Okuwa, Makoto 10. Mark Cashier, Hillstone 11. Thomas Connell, Fontainebleau Miami Beach 12. Allen Susser, Books & Books Café 13. Josh Capon, Lure Fishbar 14. Trudy Ellis, The Bahamian Pot 15. Phuket “Cake” Thongsodchareondee, Cake Thai Kitchen 16. Timon Balloo, Sugarcane Raw Bar Grill 17. Bradley Kilgore, Alter 18. Joshua Marcus, Josh’s Deli 19. Alejandro “Alex” Rodriguez, Palomilla Grill 20. Cielle Bragin, Eating House 21. Steve Santana and Washington Charles, Taquiza, The Grdn 22. Giovanni Rocchio, Valentino Cucina Italiana 23. Norman Van Aken, In the Kitchen with Norman Van Aken, Norman’s, 1921 24. Piyarat Potha “Chef Bee” Arreeratn, Naiyara, Oishi Thai RESTAURATEURS 25. Tonino Doino, Rosinella Trattoria, Sunset Juice Café 26. Abe Ng, Sushi Maki 27. Michael Sullivan, Golden Fig 28. Marc Falsetto and Charles Hazlett, JEY Hospitality

29. Elliot Wolf, Be Nice Restaurants 30. Steven Perricone, Perricone’s Marketplace & Café, Sullivan Street Bakery, Cena by Michy’s HOSPITALITY EXPERTS 31. Beto DiCarlo and Sergio Tarantini, Fratellino 32. Ed Witte, Joe’s Stone Crab 33. Wayne Eldred, Tarpon Bend BEVERAGE SPECIALISTS 34. Johnathan Wakefield, J. Wakefield Brewing 35. Andrew Mendez and Michael Mendez, Mendez Fuel 36. Jennifer Massolo, The Liquid Projects 37. Eric Larkee, The Genuine Hospitality Group ENTREPRENEURS 38. Devonie Nicholas, South Beach Wine & Food Festival 39. Della Heiman, Wynwood Yard 40. Muriel Olivares and Tiffany Noé, Little River Cooperative 41. Maude Eaton and Sara Liss, Saffron Supper Club 42. Susana Garcia and Isabel Garcia, Cacao Art Chocolates 43. Austin Allan, Tio Gazpacho POWER COUPLES 44. Teresa and Nick Sharp, Threefold Café 45. Anita and Klime Kovaceski, Crust 46. Katie Sullivan and Andrew Gilbert, The Seven Dials 47. Sandy Sanchez and Benoit Rablat, La Fresa Francesa 48. Dena Marino and Marcus Wade, MC Kitchen 49. Anastasia Koutsioukis and Ahmet Erkaya, Mandolin Aegean Bistro, Mandolin Beach 50. Lisa and Julian Siegel, Riverside Market, Riverside Market South, Craft Beer Cartel

Bold = Coral Gables

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BaconChameleon The Culinary

For the past few years, bacon has stood at the What is catalyzing the rage for bacon is its versatility centerpiece of just about everything new and with many foods and flavors. It works well in savory exciting we foodies might wish to consume. as well as sweet preparations. Bacon can be a singular star in sauces, stews, soups, salads and snacks The beloved pork staple has been at the or simply wrapped around fruits, fish, vanguard of the culinary world, from savory seafood, poultry and red meat. (foie gras with bacon) to sweet items (bacon ice cream); you might even spy it hanging It possesses a unique combination of flavors off the side of a Bloody Mary or infused that give an addictive taste to most foods with vodka! that it’s coupled with.

No longer is bacon relegated to adorn only your boring breakfast plate; this iconic American fare may be the fatty, salty ingredient that ties your newest gastronomic creation together. Genius!

The cult-like following around the low-carb and Paleo diet communities creates intrigue, as well, since these folks are generally loathe to don t-shirts professing their love of bacon.

Nutrition-wise, we now know that bacon is not the evil villain that it was once made out to be (with many thanks to the Atkins devotees of the last decade). As it turns out, dietary saturated fat and cholesterol are good for us, and not just in moderate amounts. It’s important to keep in mind that fat is a great source of fuel, critical for those working out 3+ days per week (think of it as the super unleaded gas your luxury car craves).

Yet, the word “bacon” itself comes from the Old High German word bacho, which means buttock. It’s prepared differently depending on where you live in the world and many parts of the pig can be used to prepare bacon.

In essence, bacon is here to stay. Whether you enjoy it atop your hamburger, infused into your cocktail or sprinkled onto your designer cupcake, bacon is a culinary chameleon like no other.

In the U.S., bacon is most often prepared from pork belly, which gives us the very fatty (and delicious) bacon. What is often referred to as Canadian bacon in the U.S. is back bacon taken from the pork loin, which is leaner (while not exactly rounder).

And now we can indulge without the shame and guilt (turkey bacon be damned) as bacon is only going to continue to find its way into the kitchens of the most creative minds who are working every day to raise the bar and tease our palates.

Bacon is always cured, but can be smoked or not and The stakes only get higher in the culinary world and high-quality smoked bacon from artisanal producers our desire as a consumer to find bacon flauntingly will often be completely different from bacon readily displayed (or concealed) somewhere on our plate available in your local grocery store. only gets stronger.

The

?

Mystery Rosé

Behind

Jacqueline Coleman is a certified Sommilier and 4th generation Miamian, born and raised in Coral Gables. You can find her musings about the “wine lifestyle” on her blog, History & Wine (historyandwine.com), or follow her on Twitter @HistoryandWine.

What exactly does it mean when a wine is called, rosé? Far from your average super sweet California White Zinfandel, rosé wines can actually be some of the driest, most refreshing wines in the world. Unfortunately, the name “rosé” often leads to misinformation & mixed, or negative opinions of the infamous pink wine.

If you are curious about exploring rosé this spring, here are a few things to know.

varietals. Perhaps the most famous rosé region is Provence in the South of France. The grapes that are most often used to make rosé in this area are Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Cinsault. In Spain, rosé is called “Rosado”, and in Italy, you can find it as “Rosato”. Pink wines from these regions are usually heavier in body than their French counterparts.

....... .......

1. A rosé wine derives its pink color from the grape skins, which are left on the grapes for a short time at the beginning of the wine-making process; just enough to add color, but not enough to be considered a red wine. After being lightly crushed and left to soak for a short time as grape “must”, the juice is strained out and separated from the solid “pomace”, or seeds, stems, and skins. The longer the skins are left sitting in the juice, the darker the color of the wine.

3. Many quality rosé wines can be found for under $20. It is not hard to drink a delicious rosé on a budget!

Because these wines are often more economical, they are also a good option to use in making wine cocktails. Sangria anyone?

.......

4. Rosé wines usually do not improve with age, so the best time to drink is now! Make sure you chill your rosé before you drink it, and do not be shy about using an ice bucket if you plan on enjoying your pink wine by the poolside.

....... .......

2. Rosé wines can come from anywhere in the world! They can be sweet, dry, sparkling, or still, and made from many different grape

5. Rosé wines are perfect for your spring or summer BBQ. Because these wines are extremely versatile,

with taste and structure falling somewhere in between a heavy, tannic red & a light, fragrant white, they can be perfectly paired with anything from chicken to pork; veggies to fish. And of course, a chilled rosé is a perfect accompaniment to your outdoor activity.

Rosé wines are refreshing, affordable, and some of the most versatile wines around. If you have been holding back from trying a pink wine due to associations with its name, now is the time to explore the many varieties of rosé!

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Food Featuring Amore Gelato Art Caffé

Thought

This past Fall, Amore Gelato Art Caffé opened its doors on Restaurant Row in the heart of the City Beautiful. Together, long-time Gableites Gail Sosby and Robert Klemm set up shop on Giralda Avenue and have channeled their inner passion for gelato (and art) into the new location, diving head first into the restaurant business.

The caffé is both quaint and whimsical, the perfect ingredients for a neighborhood gelateria.

If you have been to Florence, then you know that gelato is all the rage in Italy, no matter the time of year or the temperature outside. There is nothing like the real thing and Gail and Robert have found a way to bring the taste of Italia closer to home with their diverse menu and amazing gelatos.

We sat down with them recently and asked that they be a part of our Food 4 Thought in the current issue of Let’s Eat Magazine.

Tell us the 4 hottest gelato flavors at Amore?

1) Aphrodisiac gelato – “Red Hot Mama” (Dark Chocolate with a hint of spice and hot pepper) 2) Amaretto 3) Amarena (lactose free, made with creamy coconut milk) with Amarena cherries imported from Italy 4) Salted Caramel, or maybe Pistacchio, or maybe Coconut… hard to choose just four!

If we were planning a tour of Italy, what are the 4 best cities for amazing gelato: Florence (Firenze), Rome (Roma), Milan (Milano) & Bologna (it is not only about the Bolognese)

What are 4 ways you might “accompany” your gelato?

With a side of Espresso, for sure; better yet, pour the espresso over the gelato and make an affogato!

What can we get for 4 bucks at your caffé?

Lots of goodies – but for only $1 more, get one of our giant, voluptuous brownies – filled with chocolate goodness! Yum!

Grazie and Amore!

MORE CHEESE THAN THE GOSSIP COLUMN.

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