WINTER
Real Country
Inspirational stories from
Gilgandra, Coonabarabran & Coonamble
ORANGE
FEATURES
Cootamundra Picnic Races
Showcasing
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and
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New
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Service Information Marketing
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CENTRAL WEST LIFESTYLE PTY LTD Trading as Regional Lifestyle Magazine ABN 151 6322 9418
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ADDRESS PO BOX 1050 DUBBO NSW 2830 PHONE 0429 441 086 WEBSITE www.lifestylemagazine.net.au FACEBOOK @RegionalLifestyleMagazine INSTAGRAM @RegionalLifestyleMagazine PUBLISHERS, ACCOUNTS & ADVERTISING Elizabeth & Alex Tickle info@lifestylemagazine.net.au EDITOR Elizabeth Tickle editor@lifestylemagazine.net.au CHIEF WRITER & PHOTOGRAPHER Jake Lindsay shotbyjake@outlook.com.au ART DIRECTOR Zora Regulic artdirector@lifestylemagazine.net.au
DISTRIBUTION Regional Lifestyle Magazine is published quarterly (available at the beginning of each season) and distributed to selected newsagents and retail outlets within the Central West and in the surrounding regions of the Far West, New England & North West, Riverina & Southern Slopes, the Monaro, Southern Highlands, Canberra, Northern and Eastern suburbs of Sydney, in addition to a selection of other rural and coastal areas of New South Wales. Subscriptions and back issues are also available to read online, on desktop and mobile devices. Unsold magazines are distributed to cafes, health waiting rooms, quality hotels/motels, bed and breakfast establishments, hair and beauty salons and tourist outlets.
Regional Lifestyle showcases authentic content from across rural and regional New South Wales. The heart of the magazine is in the Central West of the state, but a great story knows no boundaries. We are continually amazed by the innovation, inspiration and spirit that we find time and time again in communities both within the Central West and further afield. It is our passion and privilege to bring these stories to you.
SUBSCRIBE ONLINE To order a subscription or back issue (mailed or online), visit www.lifestylemagazine.net.au. © Central West Lifestyle Pty Ltd 2023 All Rights Reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the publisher. While every care is taken in the publication of Regional Lifestyle Magazine, the publishers will not be held responsible for omissions, errors or their subsequent effects.
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CONTENTS ISSUE 41 WINTER 2023
163 F AMILY FOUND Jane Lieschke shares the incredible story of finding the family she never knew she had. 172 CAN SING, CAN COOK Singing chef Rob Breese has made an impact in the Country Music Capital in hospitality and music. 176 HIGHLAND HOSPITALITY Michele and Farley Sherrot have created so much more than a luxury B&B in Glen Innes’s heart. 184 LATE BLOOMER Not picking up a paintbrush until retirement, June Beckett’s art is highly prized.
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Inspirational stories from
Gilgandra, Coonabarabran & Coonamble
ORANGE
FEATURES
GARDEN
194 W INDSWEPT WONDERLAND Explore Jason and Colleen Southwell’s magnificent cold-country garden.
Cootamundra Picnic Races
$15.00 inc GST WINTER 2023 VOLUME 41
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COUNTRY CHARACTERS
WINTER
Real Country
WEDDINGS
222 H ITCHED Check out these glorious brides on the most special day of their lives.
THE LAST WORD
240 A LONG-HELD DREAM At 85, Don Himsley plans to renovate his historic homestead before time runs out.
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EAL COUNTRY Meet the characters R and discover the beauty of this region that has so much to offer the traveller or those fortunate enough to live there.
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188 T AILORED TO PERFECTION Find out what inspired Jane and the late Simon Beverly to create the perfect venue for weddings, parties ... anything. 202 INNER STRENGTH Author Ruth Cotton shares for the first time how she has lived with multiple sclerosis for 26 years.
Showcasing
the
best
of
rural
and
regional
New
South
Wales
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GILGANDRA, COONABARABRAN, & COONAMBLE TOWN FEATURE
ON THE COVER
Matt Howard ‘Oakleigh’ Tooraweenah enjoys the farming and grazing lifestyle in the foothills of the Warrumbungles. Story page 64. Image: Jake Lindsay
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W I N T E R story name
FROM THE PUBLISHERS
Revealing Real Country “Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson
Welcome to Winter and the 41st edition of Regional Lifestyle.
We hope you enjoyed the colours of Autumn and had a wonderful Easter with family and friends. The Autumn 2023 edition featuring Armidale and Guyra (and with a Spotlight on Dubbo) has been extremely well received. Everyone loved the stunning cover highlighting the magnificent Ebor Falls, one of the many natural attractions in the New England.
Winter 2023
This edition is a result of a collaboration between our magazine and the councils of Gilgandra, Warrumbungle (Coonabarabran) and Coonamble. These areas have the common marketing theme ‘Real Country’ and we have to agree it certainly is. You’ll receive an authentic country welcome when you visit these areas and wonder at the natural attractions that are both unique and spectacular. We know your visit is much anticipated!
Spring 2023
We’ve had some wonderful trips to Moree recently completing research for the Spring 2023 edition which will feature the area across 120 pages. Moree holds many special memories for me (Elizabeth). It was the town where I spent the first three years of my working life as a teacher after I graduated from UNE, Armidale. Since my time there, it has grown enormously in so many ways. It is certainly a thriving and dynamic centre which attracts visitors from all over. We feel sure you’ll really enjoy reading about this rich agricultural area which has so much to celebrate.
Team changes
We have had many dedicated and long-serving team members whose skills and talents make this magazine what it is. We farewell our sub-editor and proofreader, Gina Cranson and thank her most sincerely for her 10 years of magnificent contributions to our magazine. We wish her well as her life takes her in a new direction. A warm welcome to Anna Rose (formerly an RLM writer) who now takes on the role of sub-editor and proofreader. We are certain she will be extremely dedicated and thorough. Thank you to our strong and passionate team who continue to strive for excellence in each and every edition.
Where you’ll see us
We will have hopefully seen some of our loyal supporters at the Iandra Castle Open Days in April as well as at the Mudgee Small Farms Field Days on July 7 and 8. At these venues we sell current and back copies of our magazines as well as the Collector’s Edition Volume 2. Most of all we enjoy meeting people, sharing stories and hearing about why you love living in or visiting rural and regional NSW. Until next time, stay safe and stay happy.
Warm regards, Elizabeth and Alex
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FROM TOP: Publishers Elizabeth and Alex Tickle; the magnificent Warrumbungles; water towers have become compelling tourist attractions; (left) Gulargambone Water Tower, artist Jenny McCracken; (right) Coonamble Water Tower, artists John Murray and Sooty Welsh; Alex and Elizabeth enjoyed having a Lifestyle stand at the recent Iandra Castle Open Days. Images: Jake Lindsay and Gilgandra Shire Council
W I N T E R from the boundary fence
A pleasure and privilege The sometimes-mighty Castlereagh River starts in the Warrumbungle Mountains before snaking its way through Coonabarabran, Binnaway, Mendooran, Gilgandra, Gulargambone and Coonamble. In the early days, the river was the lifeblood to each of these resilient rural communities. It’s only fitting this feature includes a bunch of yarns from Gil, Coonamble and Coona, known collectively as Real Country. As they say in the brochure, it’s a place full of full of real experiences, real nature, real grit, real culture, real wonders. real people, real mateship, real skies, real inspiration ... it’s as real as it gets! Each town has its own unique charms. Gilgandra is known as the Town of Windmills, with hundreds located in backyards before the arrival of town water in the mid-1960s. Coonabarabran is Australia’s Astronomy Capital and home of the Horse Expo, while Coonamble is the nickname capital and home to the country’s biggest rodeo and campdraft. All three are close to the natural wonders of the Warrumbungle National Park, Macquarie Marshes and Pilliga State Forest. In my travels I’ve witnessed new dreams unfolding in each of these towns. While these communities may be doing it tough, there are always fresh signs of new life – newcomers who see an opportunity and are prepared to stake their future on it. Having just returned from a trip through the majestic Warrumbungles, I’m feeling particularly inspired. I have shot the rugged outcrop from a plane and better still, a chopper – it never loses its appeal. As much as I love the landscape, I’ll always be a portrait man. I’m a huge fan of life-sized portraits that capture the very essence of someone we love, particularly those no longer with us. It hardly matters that some of my best subjects are not known to me! From my desk, I look up and see a dozen hard-as-nails bushmen staring back at me from four walls. And it doesn’t matter where I move, they maintain eye contact, almost as though they’re speaking to me. This only happens after a special magic between the sitter and a very “fast” lens that locks on the eyes and throws everything else out of focus.
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You, dear reader, are going to enjoy some ripper yarns in this edition – some of them found in mysterious ways. Imagine this scenario. I’m on my last trip to Coonamble and making my way out of town when I spot a newspaper. I can’t help myself and have a quick flick through the pages. Instantly I find my perfect treechange story. Call it a fluke but that’s how we roll! After 10 years as RLM’s roving reporter, I’ve been fortunate to meet some real wags, champions of sport, industry leaders, go-ahead farmers, centenarians and a good smattering of down-to-earth country folk who just plod along every day. These are the ones I most admire. There is no such thing as an “ordinary” person. Sometimes I hear the most unbelievable or soul-destroying stories that could never be printed. The same applies to the value one puts on a property. I can’t help but be inquisitive, but it doesn’t mean I repeat this information in a story. It doesn’t always pay to advertise what we have in life – something of which I’m very conscious. The same thinking applies to my camera. While my trusty Fuji opens plenty of doors, there are some things I have to appreciate with my eyes only – like some priceless family heirloom or magnificent, irreplaceable collection. Often, it’s a thin line, bordering on trust and mutual respect. Most people, fortunately, love sharing their stories with strangers, particularly those getting on in years. They’ve had ample time to decide what matters most. I would never have met any of them if it wasn’t for this job. Enough of my rave – you’ve had your entrée, now it’s time for the main course! Bite into the ripping yarns of a lass from the Big Apple, Australia’s only safari guide, the Cactus King, the indomitable Max, a map lover, railway buff, refugees who started with nothing, poddy and pottery lovers, poets, new and (very) old homesteads and everything you have come to expect in between. Enjoy your meal, but don’t eat too quickly. This literary feast is meant be savoured. Bon appetit!
Jake Lindsay
ABOVE: It’s always a thrill coming home to Coonabarabran from Tooraweenah through the majestic Warrumbungles.
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WINTER 202 3 CONTRIBUTORS
meet your team
ELIZABETH TICKLE
ALEX TICKLE
Publisher, Editor, Advertising
Publisher, Distribution, Advertising
ZORA REGULIC Art Director
ANNA ROSE
JENNIFER HARDEN Writer, Photographer, Social Media
Website Developer, Advertising Designer, Writer
Advertising Designer
SALLY MARCEAU
ANNA CONN
JANE SANDERSON
ELIZABETH GRANT
ELIZABETH SWANE
ROBERT I BRUCE
LIZ TICKNER
LARA FLANAGAN
ELIZABETH EDWARDS
LORRAINE HILLS
CATHERINE PLAYER
TAYLAH HUDSON
KATE THOMAS
SUE CURLEY
JOHN CURLEY
Sub-editor, Proofreader & Writer
Wedding Writer
Photographer
Writer
Writer
Writer
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JAKE LINDSAY
Chief Writer & Photographer
KATE BOSHAMMER
Garden Writer
Writer
Writer
Photographer
Writer
RLM Accountant
Writer
Writer
Photographer
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your letters Armidale and Guyra are proud to have featured in Regional Lifestyle Magazine’s 10Year Anniversary edition. The area’s unique lifestyle, sitting on the New England plateau and surrounded by stunning natural wonders, was communicated beautifully to your readers through interesting interviews and articles, with accompanying quality photographs reflecting the diversity of the area. I thank the publishers for their fantastic effort to convey the experiences on offer – from adventure in our national parks, to sporting endeavours, agricultural, academic and cultural pursuits. The edition has been an outstanding success, selling strongly in retail outlets and online. Community members, both local and afar, have praised the professionalism of the publication, and are thankful to the publishers, Elizabeth and Alex, for showcasing the New England area to a wider audience. Cr Sam Coupland Armidale Regional Council Mayor
The Summer and Autumn editions of the prestigious Regional Lifestyle Magazine showcasing the Northern Tablelands have delighted all our senses and filled us with joy, page after page. From the heartfelt stories of inspiring individuals, families and businesses that underpin the fabric of strong, thriving communities to the weaving of words and accompanying photographs, the magazine is indeed much more than a mere magazine. Rather, it is a book celebrating community commitment at its very best. The generous sincerity and dedication of publishers Elizabeth and Alex, combined with the brilliance of chief features writer and photographer Jake, have been breathtaking. Those of us living in these incredible rural communities from Drake to Armidale, Guyra to Glen Innes and in between have always celebrated the amazing patchwork of community successes. Now, thanks to the Regional Lifestyle team, the rest of NSW, Australia and the world can celebrate with us, too. Mary Hollingworth Community Projects Officer, Glen Innes
Thank you and congratulations for putting together such a wonderful publication, Regional Lifestyle Magazine. Your front cover of the 10-Year Anniversary Autumn production featuring Armidale and Guyra is so impressive. My congratulations to Armidale photographer Terry Cooke, who, with camera in hand, was there just at the right time. The photos of Armidale present and in days gone by, show our beautiful city to the world. A copy has already gone to the UK and USA. I was so proud to be able to send such a quality production. I will remember your magazine when it comes to thinking about Christmas presents and appreciate the online availability. The variety of articles makes this magazine very readable to all. I especially enjoyed the ones on our historic buildings, seeing the spectacular photography and reading the stories of those who bring our towns to life. I will look forward to your next production. Barbara Roberts-Thomson Academy Wagyu Stud, Armidale
“The secret to having it all is knowing that you already do”. This quote alone from your vol 39, charmed me into reading Regional Lifestyle vol 39. How true this statement is! I’m visiting from Co Kerry, (aka “The Kingdom”), in south west Ireland. We are predominantly a rural community. I’m captivated and charmed by this marvellous magazine. It’s given me a super insight into rural life in NSW. We’ve found this magazine so informative. Thank you very much. Well done to all. Erika Kinsella Co Kerry, Ireland UK
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There’s so much more to Mudgee Rolling mountains, friendly faces, and clean country air make a relaxed setting for resort style retirement living. Lifestyle, location, and lots to see and do…proud locals will happily tell you that Mudgee has so much more on offer than you might initially think. Nestled among the Great Dividing Range, Mudgee is as scenic as it is charming. Centrally located within a few hours of Sydney, Newcastle, and major regional centres including Dubbo, Orange and Bathurst, Mudgee offers a relaxed, rural lifestyle with easy access to the big city when required. With no traffic lights, away from the hustle and bustle, you can make the most of the simple life among the natural scenery and good, clean country air. That’s what makes it the perfect setting for Oak Tree’s retirement village, allowing you to enjoy an easy, lower-maintenance lifestyle being as active as you like. It’s a place where residents – like other Mudgee locals – are proud to call home.
The perfect setting for a vibrant retirement Living in a relaxed location doesn’t mean you’ll be lacking in things to see and do. At Oak Tree, our shared facilities and regular activities allow you to keep your social calendar as full as you choose, discover new hobbies, and enrich your retirement spending more time doing the things you love. Beyond the village, the region is renowned for its produce and craft markets, shops, cafes, restaurants, wineries, breweries, live music, concerts and exhibitions. There’s a full calendar of festivals throughout the year, including Flavours of Mudgee, the Wine and Food Festival, Sculptures in the Garden, and more. Plus, there’s no shortage of entertainment and essential facilities, with a modern, purpose-built arts precinct, as well as a new $70-million hospital with plenty of great doctors and specialists.
“We fell in love with Mudgee on our caravanning trips, and the village here has everything we could want and more. Brand new, still a bit country and not all squeezed in.” “Moving to Oak Tree is the best decision we’ve ever made and we’re enjoying it more than we thought possible!” Oak Tree Mudgee residents Marie and Bill Dempsey”
Meanwhile, nearby nature reserves and World Heritage Listed bushland offer an abundance of recreational pursuits. You can enrich your post-work years being as active and social as you like. Re-think the way you live Located just five minutes from the CBD, the Oak Tree community will have you questioning everything you thought about village living – in all the best ways. The modern, boutique village has been purposebuilt to offer everything you thought you’d need in this next phase of life, and more. Gated and secure, Oak Tree is a lovely little tight-knit village community where you’ll instantly feel like you belong. Here, you’ll find companionship, regular social gatherings, and neighbours who look out for one another. Make the most of a lower maintenance lifestyle, spending meaningful time with loved ones rather than relying on them to help with home upkeep, do something new, or simply enjoy everything the Mudgee region has to offer. Set in the vibrant Caerleon Estate – Mudgee’s newest master planned community – you’ll have easy reach to a town centre, lots of great facilities and lifestyle amenities, providing a new lively destination for locals. This award-winning community is set within beautifully landscaped surrounds to enhance the historic, rural backdrop. And with multiple new public infrastructure projects in the works for the region, the future is certainly looking bright. Come and experience Oak Tree. Visit Village Manager Bec at 15 Meramie Street, Mudgee between 10am and 2pm Monday to Friday for a private tour.
1300 367 155 oaktreegroup.com.au
T O W N F E AT U R E Gilgandra
GILGANDRA TOWN FE ATUR E WORDS & IMAGES: JAKE LINDSAY
A Real Country welcome From the Mayor of Gilgandra Shire Council We are a small community, with a big heart, friendly faces and a splash of colour to showcase our vibrant community spirit. When I returned to my hometown, Gilgandra over 30 years ago with my wife and young family to take over our family business. I discovered a caring, giving, considerate community that provides a wonderful opportunity to live, grow a business and enjoy with my family. I am a proud Gilgandra local, true (Gil) Panthers’ supporter, and am lucky to call this place home. Since first featuring in the Winter 2017 edition of (formerly) Central West Lifestyle Magazine, the Gilgandra community has been
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impacted by drought, floods and pestilence – a mouse plague. Our community spirit has only grown through these times as we seized upon opportunities created by the decisions of state and federal government to grant funding that has seen upgrades to much of the community infrastructure across the region in Gilgandra, Armatree and Tooraweenah. Sporting facilities, parks and gardens, community halls, youth centre, cultural precincts and libraries have benefited. This renewal, together with considerable investment by local business houses, has resulted in the presentation of a commercial centre that is both modern, vibrant, and continually growing.
Underpinning all of this is a council goal to grow our shire population from the 2021 Census-revealed population of 4300 to 5000 residents. It is worthwhile noting Gilgandra and Dubbo were the only two centres in the Orana region to record an increase in population in the 2021 count. Through our “Towards 5000” vision, we move with confidence towards the 2026 Census. Planning for the positive impacts of the Inland Rail construction, specifically the 307km greenfield section between Narromine and Narrabri which will provide a once-ina-lifetime opportunity for the Gilgandra community. Gilgandra Shire Council is unique in that
Gilgandra T O W N F E AT U R E
not only does it provide traditional roads, rates and rubbish services, we are responsible for the operation of aged care services, with Gilgandra Lifestyles comprising an extensive aged care village, hostel living, Aboriginalspecific aged care, and home care packages. Gilgandra Shire Council also delivers supported accommodation and employment for disability clients through Orana Living and Carlginda Enterprises – and support their incredible artwork talents; wait until you see their windmills along our Windmill Walk! Gilgandra has a long and proud history of volunteering and community support. We are a rural support centre that is located at the junction of three major highways: the Newell, Castlereagh, and Oxley. All roads truly lead here. An agricultural community, supported by our township of Gilgandra and two unique villages of Armatree and Tooraweenah. Gilgandra is known as a meeting place between three Aboriginal tribes – Wiradjuri, Wailwan and Kamilaroi, who contribute
As Mayor of this wonderful community, I extend an invitation to you to visit, stay and experience the Gilgandra region. proudly to the cultural identity of who we are today. Gilgandra continues to be a meeting place for both residents and visitors. It is pleasing to be able to come together with Coonamble and Warrumbungle shires in featuring our Real Country in this edition of Regional Lifestyle Magazine. As Mayor of this wonderful community, I extend an invitation to you to visit, stay and experience Gilgandra region. You might see a flying pig, wonder of endless possibilities, be inspired by local artworks, give a “Coo-ee”, watch the wheat grow from the ground, or wonder at the natural assets in the Warrumbungles, Castlereagh River and unique cactus farm, I can assure you will leave with a smile on your face and a calling to return. Cr Doug Batten, Mayor, Gilgandra Shire Council
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Gilgandra T O W N F E AT U R E
Possibilities
are endless
Gilgandra region’s combination of agriculture, history, art, and culture offers real experiences in Real Country. Here, the Coo-ee spirit was born and that spirit has been calling out to road-trippers, families and other adventurers ever since. Steeped in history, the Gilgandra Region is known for its welcoming community and incredible natural landscape. The shire covers an area of 4500sq km and has a population of 4295 lucky residents. Gilgandra is located on the junction of three main highways, the Oxley, Castlereagh and Newell, and as a region, is a gateway to the Warrumbungle National Park. This charming town offers a selection of restaurants, cafes, bakery, retail stores and sightseeing right in the heart of Gilgandra. With 1930s buildings, murals and the Coo-ee sculpture, Gilgandra is steeped in military history, art, culture and a relaxed way of life. Though ask anyone in town, the real strength is its people. You will hear them referred to as “local legends”; always up for a chat at one of the country pubs, or ready for a yarn at the counter in one of the many local shops, be sure to take some time to stop and say g’day. They’ll have the best stories (and know the best fishing spots).
Gil (as it’s called by the locals) is best known as the birthplace of the Coo-ee March and the Town of Windmills. Call in to the Coo-ee Heritage Centre and select from local produce, gifts, culture, history and art. From there wander the Windmill Walk to the Gilgandra Museum, where visitors can step back in time and discover Australia’s past preserved in the museum’s collection of inventions and memorabilia, including the rotary hoe which was made right here in Gilgandra! Beyond Gilgandra, there’s lots more to explore in surrounding towns and villages in the region. Take in the local military history at Armatree War Memorial Precinct. Home to a memorial for local World War I Victoria Cross recipient, Alexander Buckley, history boards and the one-of-a-kind Big ArmaTree, engineered right here in Gilgandra. Be sure to visit Tooraweenah, a tiny tranquil village nestled in the foothills of the Warrumbungle National Park. Take yourself back in time with a wander along the historical trail through town.
Follow the walkway out to the GK Rohr viewing platform to visit the Returned Soldier Sculpture and take in the skyline. Travel the winding route of Tourist Drive 1 through the Warrumbungles, you will find yourself up close and personal with an emu, Australia’s largest bird. Gilgandra is known as a meeting place for three Aboriginal nations, Wiradjuri, Kamilaroi and Wailwan. Today, Gilgandra continues to be a meeting place for family, friends and visitors alike. With events from high-octane speedway to festivals, markets and country shows, there is always something happening in Gilgandra Region. Whether you’re driving through, looking for a short escape or somewhere to settle, Gilgandra Region is a perfect addition as part of your next adventure. RLM Images: Gilgandra Shire Council
This is Real Country. Come and see for yourself. www.gilgandraregion.com.au
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Days gone by GILGANDRA
Images supplied by Gilgandra Museum and Historical Society
Gilgandra T O W N F E AT U R E
Glorious Gilgandra Visit the region where the Coo-ee spirit is alive and thriving
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T O W N F E AT U R E Gilgandra
Jewel on the NEWELL With a huge windmill and the world-famous Howard rotary hoe out the front, it’s impossible to miss Gilgandra Museum on the Newell Highway. The rotary hoe, which changed farming practices all over the world, was invented by Gilgandra farmer Cliff Howard but there’s plenty more to take in. Visitors can check out a HV McKay harvester – the first mechanical machine to strip, thrash and clean grain in one operation – a Ridley stripper, the old Tooraweenah Gaol and Uargon School. In the relocated “Berida” bookkeeper’s rooms is the Lodge Warrumbungle Room, an old-style kitchen with its vast collection of Arnott’s biscuit tins. The museum was opened on its current eight-acre site in 1997, having started 30 years earlier in a section of the town library. Later the machinery was moved to the rear of the Coo-ee Heritage Centre, which also accommodated the Historical Society’s other collections in the Allan Wise Gallery.
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Old sewing machines, historic images, irons, music room and a special signature quilt all have their own story. Motionactivated monitors, introduced after a government grant, tell the story of farming from the early days of the colony. Allow an hour or two to wander through a dozen buildings, including a massive shed housing dozens of historic tractors and early farming implements. Soon-to-be ex-farmer and museum president Max Zell remembers many pivotal moments in history since his birth 76 years ago in Gilgandra’s private maternity hospital “Chinnock” (now a B&B). His great-great-grandfather, a German vinedresser, arrived in Kiama in 1852. Max’s great-grandfather grew up with numerous farm duties, among them helping his mother in the dairy at Mudgee.
On cold winter days, like many farm kids, he warmed his toes in steaming cowpats! Shoes would come much later. He later found himself in Tooraweenah, starting a farming legacy that’s continued for 137 years. He purchased his first block in the Tooraweenah district in 1888. In the late 1910s Max’s grandfather and his wife would hitch up their horse and sulky and set off for Coonabarabran to visit her family. In those days it was little more than a bush track, with no less than 34 gates to open. In 1969, Max moved onto his own property “Boomanulla” – a “Myall View” soldier settlers block, months before marrying the new maths teacher in town. It’s been a good union with Margaret and Max blessed with three children and 11 grandchildren. In the past few years, the farm’s been leased but will soon be sold as
Gilgandra T O W N F E AT U R E the pair move into the next phase of life at Coo-ee Retirement Village where he once served on the management committee. Max has been serving the community a long time. In the early 1990s, he became the last shire president and the first Gilgandra mayor. Later he became the inaugural chairman of the Bendigo Community Bank – not a bad effort for a kid who left school at 14 to help his father on the farm. Apart from his museum commitments, Max is also an enthusiastic and engaging volunteer at the Coo-ee Heritage Centre and, with Margaret, helps out with Meals on Wheels. One of his biggest concerns is filling the dwindling volunteer ranks. “Gilgandra shire has a proud and wonderful history,” he says. “In order to keep this history alive, it’s imperative we attract new blood into the ranks.” Curator of the Gilgandra Museum and Historical Society, Shirley Marks keeps the archives up to date, while husband Jeff is the museum treasurer. Shirley lived in Scotland until she was 15, when an aerogram from her brother changed her life. He had landed on a Tooraweenah farm as part of the Big Brother movement and wrote to say he was feeling lonely and homesick. In a moment of madness, the family decided they would all move to a tiny speck on the map on the other side of the world to join him. Having left snowy Scotland to arrive in the middle of a summer heatwave, it all seemed so surreal, including their first big outing to the movies in Dubbo. “When we arrived (in the 1960s) we were invited to the local hall and asked to bring a plate, which caused much confusion among us,” she laughs. The volunteers have countless stories to share with visitors as they view inventions which shaped our nation and forever changed our way of life. RLM
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Thanks to the dedication of the dozen or so volunteers – who all believe in preserving the past for present and future generations – the museum opens every day of the year bar Christmas, from 9am till 1pm.
FACING PAGE: The Gilgandra Museum is a must-see for any travellers along the Newell. RIGHT: 1. Steam engine. 2. Tobacco tins. 3. Museum president Max Zell. 4. Patchwork quilt. 5. Horse and sulky. 6. Windmill. 7. Telephones and switchboards from
yesteryear. 8. Allan Thiele has been a volunteer for 45 years. 9. Neil Cooper. 10. Mowers of all description. 11. Retired farmer Philip Godber. 12. Museum curator Shirley Marks.
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T O W N F E AT U R E Gilgandra
Standing proudly One of Gilgandra’s oldest original timber homesteads is still lived in, thanks to a couple devoted to preserving Australian rural history
The 160-year-old “Berida” homestead is home to custodians Ian and Di McCutcheon, who love sharing the history of their home and equally impressive woolshed with friends and strangers. When not running their sheep, cattle and wheat enterprises, they continue enriching the lives of young people through Camp Berida. When newcomers innocently ask how long they’ve been in the district, they can expect a brief history lesson dating back to 1818 when explorer John Oxley passed through the area, writing glowing reports in his journal of the grazing potential. The first settlers arrived in 1839. Sarah Lowe was a stoic, country woman who travelled extensively throughout the unsettled districts, taking up various tracts of land on the Cudgegong, Castlereagh and Macquarie rivers. Widowed after losing her second husband, she was determined to forge a better life for her 11 children, including five older stepchildren. Attracted by good pastures and a fresh water supply from the nearby Marthaguy Creek, they arrived with their cattle in a bullock-drawn wagon. It was virgin country inhabited by Aborigines for thousands of years. The birth of Gilgandra on the banks of the Castlereagh 17 miles away was still light years away. Roads, fences and neighbours simply did not exist. In the early 1860s, Sydney’s inaugural mayor and owner of Flood’s Wool Stores, the Hon Edward Flood was keen to establish a pastoral empire. Over several years he combined several squatting
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runs to build an impressive tract of land totalling 160,000 acres known as the Marthagi run. Edward was the first to introduce sheep to the district and built the original homestead, naming the property “Berida” – possibly after daughter, Berida Flood, who was born there in 1862. She would go on to live to the ripe old age of 100. It was a period of great change. In 1884, half the land was reclaimed for new settlers arriving by the score, including Thomas Foran, who called his block “New Berida”. Foran descendants are still farming there 140 years later. In 1891, two years before Federation, the Floods wound up operations, selling their remaining 84,840 acres, 60,000 sheep, 100 cattle and 104 horses to the Barry brothers, “gentlemen farmers” from Melbourne. This is where the McCutcheons enter the story. Young Oliver McCutcheon arrived in 1909 as relieving manager on a six-month contract but ended up staying a further 42 years. He was witness to the carving up of the big run. > THIS PAGE: The historic ‘Berida’ homestead has changed little in 160 years. FACING PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The homestead; Di and Ian McCutcheon on their sweeping front verandah; the formal dining room; one of the two hallways lined with memories from the past; the original wallpaper from a century ago; historic ledgers; old books; the old storehouse, with meat house in the background; the former office at the end of the building; the billiard room; another connecting hallway.
Gilgandra T O W N F E AT U R E
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T O W N F E AT U R E Gilgandra
In 1912, a further 13 blocks were stripped away, 11 of them eventually going to the Mudford family, well-known district farmers. In 1949 the federal government acquired the property and split it into 24 soldier settlement blocks, with Oliver securing the homestead block of 1600 acres. The clearing sale was the talk of the town, with new cars arriving at the station saleyards to snap up some of the 31,000 sheep on offer for the excellent price of 47 shillings a head (about $5 in today’s money). Oliver’s son, Bob, worked on Tiger Moths at Narromine during the war years. He acquired the woolshed block in a promotional scheme – including the shearers’ quarters and magnificent 20-stand woolshed.
IAN TAKES CHARGE
Bob and wife Ailsa had four daughters before the welcome arrival of Ian in 1960, when Bob was 52. His education at Scots College, Bellevue Hill, ended after Year 10, when he returned home to finish his HSC via correspondence. At 22, he took on the running of the farm following the passing of his father. It was time to share his life – and the big house – with close neighbour, Di Foran, whom he’d met on the bus to primary school. After boarding school at St Vincent’s College, Potts Point, Di spent four years at university. Her teaching career in Gilgandra was cut short in 1984 after marrying Ian and moving into the old homestead. Taking on the rambling home in those early days was a daunting prospect, feelings no doubt heightened by a mouse plague. Di often felt the place was simply too big and old to maintain but the home’s rich history was hard to ignore.
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Di reduced the eight bedrooms to six and installed a new kitchen and bathroom in her unusual home with two major hallways, both former verandahs. The home had been expanded every time there was a succession of good seasons. Little has changed from a century ago when it was the centrepiece of station life. With 24 men on the payroll, along with a store, blacksmith, stables and meat-house, there was always enough time and energy to field their own cricket, tennis, golf and polo teams. After dinner, the men would retire to the billiards room, where the table had been built internally in 1893 at a cost of £50. Much like the ancient palm trees dwarfing the homestead and the bell system for servants, it was a sign of prosperity. One of the oldest rooms in the house is the “Governor’s Room”, formerly a sitting room but now a guest bedroom. The most notable visitor to pull up stumps for the night was the NSW governor in the 1930s. Four generations of McCutcheon men and their wives have battled droughts, floods that lapped at the house, dust storms, plagues, fluctuating prices, poor seasons and pandemics. Accidents happened frequently. The manager’s diary records the death in 1909 of a shearer trying to cross Marthaguy Creek on horseback. His body was found two weeks later, leading to the building of the bridge in 1921. After surviving the war, Bob McCutcheon’s brother-in-law lost his life in a horrific fire west of “Berida” in the 1950s. The fire truck driver panicked, tragically leaving two fire-fighters behind. Throughout it all they have quietly made history as one of the few Australian families still living in an original, 160-year-old home.
Gilgandra T O W N F E AT U R E
WOOLSHED YARNS
Although the McCutcheon kids cleared out years ago, they are never far away. Emma Robinson is the local pharmacist and Andrew a woodwork teacher at Gilgandra High. Kate Melhuish lives on the adjoining farm with her diesel mechanic husband while Simon is a Dubbo construction manager. Ian and Di are thrilled when they are visited by their children and six grandchildren under the age of four. Many a fine family function has been held in the old woolshed, including the occasional family wedding. The original woolshed was a blade shed with 27 stands, replaced in 1899 with an expanded 20-stand machine shed to shear their flock of 40,000 Merino sheep. It took six weeks to cut the wood for the steam engine and a similar time to finish the job. In a good season up to 1,000 bales of wool were prepared for their long journey to woollen mills in England and Scotland. The woolshed is still used for shearing their South African Dohne Merinos – dual-purpose sheep known for their foraging ability, early maturity and good mothering skills. The walls are adorned with old photos and historical documents, offering a glimpse of life when things were done very differently. Farm tour visitors and budding photographers love the opportunity to see a historic woolshed in such great condition. The magnificent building, which might easily have been left to an ignominious end, has played host to many family events. Just as important for Ian, it’s become the unlikely venue for a Christian youth group he started 40 years ago.
“We have fortnightly meetings either in the woolshed or at the oval, high school hall, 10-pin bowling or at home,” says Ian, who has always shared a strong affiliation with teenagers of all denominations from mostly Gilgandra, Coonabarabran and Warren. Camp Berida is designed to meet and mix, have fun and create new experiences in a safe and healthy environment. Lifelong friendships and even weddings have taken place through these associations. “For us, it’s all about involving ourselves with the lives of young people, sharing their good times and bad while offering hope and good Christian values.” It hasn’t always been an easy journey for Ian and Di McCutcheon. Their unbreakable spirit, strong beliefs and ability to nurture the next generation have made them model citizens and treasurers of an important part of Gilgandra’s proud history. RLM
FACING PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ‘Berida’ certainly rode on the sheep’s back in the 20th century. In 1949, 30,886 sheep averaged 47 shillings a head; the enormous shearing shed; fashions in the field at the local gymkhana; top dog; Ian’s father, Bob McCutcheon; a huge amount of timber was required for the steam engine to power up the shed; in its heyday ‘Berida’ produced up to 1000 bales; shearing and sorting the old-fashioned way. ABOVE: Ian and Di use the shed for family gatherings and the meeting place for a Christian youth group.
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T O W N F E AT U R E Gilgandra
Get the Coo-ee
experience
Explore the delights of Coo-ee Heritage & Visitor Information Centre – a vibrant cultural meeting place where storytelling comes alive.
FROM TOP: The original Coo-ee March which began in Gilgandra in 1915; the information centre; art exhibits; history abounds; team member Nicki Loader in the shop; the large space tells Gilgandra’s story, past and present.
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Widely known as the CHC, it’s the perfect place to get a taste of Gilgandra’s local art, history, produce and culture – and it’s conveniently located on the Newell Highway. Uniquely designed, the building features rammed-earth walls and floors, exposed timber rooflines, corrugated iron and steel. A visit to the CHC is made even more memorable by volunteers who are extremely proud of their town. Be sure to ask for one of their tips or stories; it might just be the highlight of your trip. True gem Shirley Marks has devoted countless hours as curator of the Allan Wise Gallery. This space focuses on Gilgandra’s history and the local story of mateship and spirit that remains the backbone of the region. Feel the Coo-ee spirit of mateship as you wander the Coo-ee March Gallery, depicting the historic 1915 journey from Gilgandra to Sydney. Test your vocals and see if you can become a “local legend” on the Coo-ee Calling Experience leaderboard. With the “Ladies Behind the Lines” interaction, hear the story of the march through women’s eyes. Experience local, regional and travelling art in the Gilgandra Art Gallery. Exhibitions rotate every six weeks, with a large variety of artistic styles, keeping it vibrant and exciting as you visit time and time again. Wander your way through the large and unique collection of shells, fossils and Aboriginal artifacts gathered by locals Gwen and Snow Collison on their travels to many parts of Australia. Enter the Joy Trudgett Gallery to discover local Aboriginal storytelling and culture. Developed in collaboration with a local Aboriginal stakeholder group, The Meeting Place celebrates the stories, past and present, of the community. Keep an eye out for the vibrant splashes of colour atop the windmills, and the Coo-ee soldier silhouettes along the Windmill Walk in the Gilgandra Cultural Precinct, winding along the Castlereagh River from the museum to the main street. Collect a gift from Gilgandra and savour some regional drinks and light bites to eat on the riverside deck. Coming exhibitions: June 10-July 23: Locals Joe and Judy Shalhoub have paired with Dubbo artist Ruth Roberts to create an abstract exhibition of paintings and glass. August 29-September 10: Admire the artworks of local artist Ann Freeth. Ann paints acrylics applied with a palette knife. September 16-October 29: Blowing in the Wind by regional art group Fresh Arts, featuring a broad range of regional artists, utilising all forms of artistic creation. The CHC friendly staff and volunteers look forward to seeing you as part of your next adventure. RLM
Gilgandra T O W N F E AT U R E
PRICKLY PARADISE
Travellers passing through Gilgandra on the Newell Highway would no doubt have seen the insane cactus farm stretching towards the forever-blue central-western skies. It’s the lifelong dream of octogenarian Lester Meyers, a man every bit as tough as the plants that dwarf him. Starting with a single cactus on an empty block 50 years ago, he now has thousands of thorny subjects in his kingdom. His cacti thrive in dry environments, conserving water in their thick and fleshy spines. The past two wet years have sorely tested the patience of the self-made cactus king. With several hundred varieties representing every shape and size, many visitors are surprised to learn that with time, they will all flower. And while they may look self-sufficient, like any plant they require regular maintenance. Lester has always been a big fan of the razor-sharp thorns found among his prime specimens and offers sage advice for any travellers lost in the desert and hoping to find salvation in the fluid. “Don’t do it – you’ll go plumb crazy,” he laughs. “And that I can guarantee.” Despite his advancing years, Lester has no plans of winding up his priceless collection. “I’ll be taking it to my grave and will never sell up,” he says with a twinkle in his eye. When he’s not tending to his plants, the former carpet layer likes to lose himself in a great western DVD, especially any starring his favourite actor, John “The Duke” Wayne. RLM You can inspect this fascinating collection from 9am to 1pm on weekends. A $2 donation will grant you access into the whole new prickly world of Gilgandra’s Cactus King. THIS PAGE: Lester Meyers has devoted a lifetime to his prickly subjects and loves sharing it with visitors.
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