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AUTUMN
Armidale & Guyra FEATURE
Spotlight on
DUBBO GORGEOUS Monaro Garden
Showcasing
the
best
of
rural
and
regional
New
South
Wales
Service Information Marketing
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CENTRAL WEST LIFESTYLE PTY LTD Trading as Regional Lifestyle Magazine ABN 151 6322 9418
CONTENT COVERAGE AREA
ADDRESS PO BOX 1050 DUBBO NSW 2830 PHONE 0429 441 086 WEBSITE www.lifestylemagazine.net.au FACEBOOK @RegionalLifestyleMagazine INSTAGRAM @RegionalLifestyleMagazine PUBLISHERS, ACCOUNTS & ADVERTISING Elizabeth & Alex Tickle info@lifestylemagazine.net.au EDITOR Elizabeth Tickle editor@lifestylemagazine.net.au CHIEF WRITER & PHOTOGRAPHER Jake Lindsay shotbyjake@outlook.com.au ART DIRECTOR Zora Regulic artdirector@lifestylemagazine.net.au
DISTRIBUTION Regional Lifestyle Magazine is published quarterly (available at the beginning of each season) and distributed to selected newsagents and retail outlets within the Central West and in the surrounding regions of the Far West, New England & North West, Riverina & Southern Slopes, the Monaro, Southern Highlands, Canberra, Northern and Eastern suburbs of Sydney, in addition to a selection of other rural and coastal areas of New South Wales. Subscriptions and back issues are also available to read online, on desktop and mobile devices. Unsold magazines are distributed to cafes, health waiting rooms, quality hotels/motels, bed and breakfast establishments, hair and beauty salons and tourist outlets.
Regional Lifestyle showcases authentic content from across rural and regional New South Wales. The heart of the magazine is in the Central West of the state, but a great story knows no boundaries. We are continually amazed by the innovation, inspiration and spirit that we find time and time again in communities both within the Central West and further afield. It is our passion and privilege to bring these stories to you.
SUBSCRIBE ONLINE To order a subscription or back issue (mailed or online), visit www.lifestylemagazine.net.au. © Central West Lifestyle Pty Ltd 2023 All Rights Reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the publisher. While every care is taken in the publication of Regional Lifestyle Magazine, the publishers will not be held responsible for omissions, errors or their subsequent effects.
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Stay
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CONTENTS ISSUE 40 AUTUMN 2023
117
he highest town in the New England T High Country, Guyra has plenty to look up to, not least its wonderful close-knit community and the much-loved Lamb and Potato Festival, which celebrates some of the area’s greatest assets.
COUNTRY CHARACTERS
163 BOOM TIME Errin Williamson’s Church Street Café in Dubbo marked 10 years of trading in January, and she is brimming with optimism for its future.
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Armidale & Guyra FEATURE
Spotlight on
DUBBO
GARDEN
196 THRIVING LEGACY The impressive parklike gardens of Curry Flat in the NSW Monaro region have developed alongside six generations of the Jardine family.
GORGEOUS Monaro Garden
$15.00 inc GST AUTUMN 2023 VOLUME 40 >
GUYRA TOWN FEATURE
AUTUMN
608002
he people of Armidale are justifiably proud T of what the area has to offer – everything from quality education at every stage, to stunning natural wonders, a vibrant arts scene, a thriving business community and an excellent reputation in innovation and primary industry.
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164 N OD TO HISTORY Dubbo’s heritagelisted “Eastonville” is the perfect spot for owners Paul and Robyn Allan to showcase their many historical treasures. 186 FAITH, HOPE, LOVE Centenarian Hope Gordon and her beloved “Bethune” have been inseparable for the past 70 years.
Showcasing
the
best
of
rural
and
regional
New
South
Wales
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ARMIDALE TOWN FEATURE
WEDDINGS
226 PERFECT MATCH Some of the happy couples who’ve tied the knot this past year.
THE LAST WORD
240 PUPPY LOVE Dog devotees are in for a treat with some action shots from a recent agility competition in Armidale.
ON THE COVER
Ebor Falls, a tiered waterfall on the Guy Fawkes River, near Ebor in the New England region of NSW. Image: Terry Cooke
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FROM THE PUBLISHERS
A season to savour “Let us realise that the privilege to work is a gift, the ability to work is a blessing and the love of work is success.” – David O McKay
It’s Autumn 2023 already!
We sincerely hope your Christmas was a treasured time with your family and friends and that 2023 will bring you good health, happiness and peace.
Ten years in business
This Autumn 2023 edition represents edition number 40, and a 10-year milestone in our joyous journey with Regional Lifestyle. In this time, we have featured over 75 towns and cities and worked with more than 50 councils across the state. We feel proud that we have been able to assist our many readers plan and navigate their trips to explore rural and regional NSW and, in doing so, support the many businesses that collaborate with our publication. We have had repeat feature bookings from quite a number of councils, which means that the results have already become evident with increased visitation and an awareness of the best-kept secrets that these country regions have been holding close. Much of the success of our publication lies in the loyalty we have experienced from our many advertisers. The reality is that we would not exist without their valued support. The costs of production have risen significantly over the years, but we aim to keep the advertising costs and the purchase price of the magazine as competitive as possible.
Summer 2022 edition
The sales of the last edition (with a shared feature on Tenterfield and Glen Innes) have been very impressive. It was exciting to see the new release walking out the door at both the Tenterfield and Glen Innes newsagencies. Copies of this edition have been read online nationally and in many countries of the world. You will see feedback from the stakeholders: Tenterfield Chamber of Commerce, Business and Industry as well as the Tenterfield Council and Glen Innes Severn councils in the “Your Letters” section. We love to get feedback and we encourage you as a reader to send us an email and let us know what you think of Regional Lifestyle.
Autumn 2023 edition
The Autumn 2023 Feature on the Armidale Regional Council area showcases all that is on offer in the Armidale and Guyra areas (and everything in between). We are sure you will love these stunning parts of the world and the varied and diverse offerings that are there for the taking. We’re confident that you will be compelled to take a visit to experience these New England gems in the near future.
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ABOVE: RLM Publishers Alex and Elizabeth Tickle; the beautiful autumn colours of Armidale in the New England. Image: Stephane L’hostis
Future editions
Things to look forward to: • Winter 2023 Feature on Coonamble, Gilgandra and Coonabarabran; • Spring 2023 Feature on Moree; • Summer 2023 We revisit Inverell two years down the track. We trust 2023 unfolds in the best way possible for you. Stay safe, stay happy and stay humble.
Warm regards, Elizabeth and Alex
A U T U M N Jake’s message
forty editions & counting G’day trendsetters, Welcome to our 40th issue, celebrating the magazine’s 10th year of bringing you stories and photos of the finest people and places in regional NSW. It’s been an amazing, fun-filled journey sharing tales of so many larger-than-life country characters, businesses and off-the-map destinations. In recent years, as you are no doubt aware, the bush has been tested from pillar to post. We’ve witnessed Mother Nature unleash a gamut of destructive forces. We’ve gone from crippling drought and COVID to devastating fires and now destructive floods that have ripped the heart out of many communities. With surging fuel and energy prices and a frightening war on the other side of the world, it would be easy to feel despondent. Like all good farmers, we can only hope for the best and prepare for the worst. As I sit in front of my computer, trying to find inspiration to finish my last few stories, I do what I always do: divert my efforts into revamping my office. I spend most of my life here and it has to be, well, just right, to get me in the required mood for writing. After a major spring clean, I feel refreshed and ready to climb back in the saddle! Now I can turn my attention to a far more interesting topic: Armidale, a place I first visited in 1976 at a Newcombe-Roche tennis camp. Apart from playing a few games with the old masters, my greatest thrill was having the bloke with the famous mo take me for a spin in his red convertible Mercedes. Armidale is a thriving regional and educational centre with plenty of great museums, art galleries and shopping opportunities. The New England also boasts an assortment of natural wonders, including spectacular waterfalls and gorges. In this edition, you can read about the magnificent Petersons Winery and Guesthouse and the historic Saumarez and Chevy Chase homesteads. In Guyra, I met Dick Campbell, who grows spuds and breeds prime lambs for which the town is synonymous, an entertaining trout farmer and a cattleman with a soft spot for Murray Greys in the stunning high country. Among my highlights was interviewing two enterprising stud breeders. Anne Starr has achieved remarkable accomplishments at the Sydney Royal Easter Show, while cattle icon Barbara RobertsThomson is enjoying a second wind with her Red Wagyu cattle. Sometimes when finding stories, the power of the universe intervenes. I met the fastest woman in the world on two wheels, Niki Zak, at the local mower centre. I know you will enjoy reading about The Baroness with a penchant for breaking speed limits. Later I was chatting to a tree-change couple on the first really sunny day for weeks and casually mentioned the perfect flying conditions. Bingo! Within half an hour I was soaring in a gyrocopter, soaking up the glorious countryside below me. My gracious pilot was forced to dump fuel to compensate for the extra weight. Meeting a ninja warrior with the quickest reflexes in the world resulted in another ripper yarn, before finishing my trip with a fabulous dog show. The magazine you have in your hands is going nowhere until it’s been faithfully devoured from cover to cover. Enjoy the vibrant
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colours of autumn months and never forget how fortunate you are to be living in this great country. A huge thank you to my colleague Anna Rose, for joining me on my latest escapade and showing me that life really is for living. Till next time I’m looking at you,
Jake Lindsay
ABOVE: Pilot Mark Andre had to dump some fuel before agreeing to let Jake join him on a scenic flight over town. It was worth the squeeze; the spectacular Dangar Falls.
FROM OUR FAMILY TO YOURS.
Visit jackscreek.com.au
AUTUMN 202 3 CONTRIBUTORS
meet your team
ELIZABETH TICKLE
ALEX TICKLE
JAKE LINDSAY
Publisher, Editor, Advertising
Publisher, Distribution, Advertising
Chief Writer & Photographer
JENNIFER HARDEN
ZORA REGULIC
GINA CRANSON
Art Director
Sub-Editor & Proofreader
Writer, Photographer, Social Media
KATE BOSHAMMER
Website Developer, Advertising Designer, Writer
MELISSA DUNKERLEY Advertising Designer
Advertising Designer
SALLY MARCEAU
ANNA CONN
JANE SANDERSON
ELIZABETH GRANT
ELIZABETH SWANE
ROBERT I BRUCE
LIZ TICKNER
ELIZABETH EDWARDS
LYNNE WALKER
ANNA ROSE
ZENIO LAPKA
NATALIE SALLOUM
Wedding Writer
Writer
Writer
SUE MEIKLE Photographer
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Writer
JOHN CURLEY RLM Accountant
Garden Writer
Writer
Writer
Photographer
Writer
Photographer
JAMES WHITE Photographer
Photographer
SUE CURLEY Writer
feedback A U T U M N
your letters On behalf of Glen Innes Severn Council and our community, I thank the publishers for delivering a top-quality product, which features our area so beautifully and authentically. The visually attractive presentation of our town, our villages, our landscapes and our people will no doubt resonate with travellers planning their itinerary, and help to put us “on the map”. The telling of our stories adds interest, encouraging visitation and making our community feel proud. The feature presents a positive vibe, which is a good tonic for the local community after consecutive years of bushfires, droughts, mice and floods. The magazine has been one of the highlights of the year for Council’s promotional activity. The publishers’ professionalism, genuine interest and enthusiasm for our place and our people has made this a pleasing and rewarding project for all concerned. Cr Rob Banham, Glen Innes Severn Council Mayor
It was a pleasure to work with Elizabeth, Alex and Jake in the production of the magnificent Regional Lifestyle Magazine Deluxe Summer Edition 2022 showcasing Tenterfield and Glen Innes shires. To call it a magazine does it a disservice, as it is better described as a coffee table book due to the quality of the materials, printing, photography and articles. This enduring quality made me keen to have Tenterfield Shire participate. It has been a tremendous success with vigorous sales, as well as creating a sense of pride and enjoyment in our local region and its offerings. To have our landscapes, lifestyles, personalities, history, and businesses featured with such outstanding photography and captivating articles has been such a positive contribution after recent years of lurching from one natural disaster after another, and highlights how our community continues to dig deep, providing excellence in the face of adversity. This edition not only graces local homes and businesses but has been snapped up by visitors and sent to friends and family across Australia and overseas. We look forward to your readers visiting us to enjoy the features you so beautifully captured. Cr Bronwyn Petrie, Tenterfield Shire Council Mayor
The Tenterfield Chamber of Tourism, Industry and Business are thrilled with the Tenterfield Feature in Regional Lifestyle Magazine. This edition has brought a spotlight to our beautiful town and showcased what our business and region have to offer the traveller or tree changer. Our members have loved the feature and the increase of trade it has created for them, and this has complemented the already increased real estate inquiry in our region. We recommend any business community consider putting their town on the map with an inclusion in this beautiful magazine. Tenterfield looks forward to our next inclusion to further show the benefits and development in our shire. Thank you, Elizabeth and Alex, for this incredible opportunity. Kristen Lovett, Tenterfield Chamber of Tourism, Industry and Business President
As a recent subscriber to your fabulous magazine, I congratulate you on a stunning publication, which I can barely wait to receive every quarter. I found it quite by chance while doing a short road trip via the Barkala Pottery in the Pilliga. I am a self-taught watercolour artist, painting flora and fauna for many years until recently I took on the challenge of historic houses. This is proving to be a worthwhile decision but reference material is always difficult. Now, however, thanks to your magazine, that dilemma has been resolved and now I have not only a very valuable reference source but an inspirational and educational tool. I wish you and your team every success in 2023 and I look forward to being associated with you. June Beckett, Clarence Town
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RLM 11
T O W N F E AT U R E Armidale
ARMIDALE TOWN FE ATUR E WORDS & IMAGES: JAKE LINDSAY
ARMIDALE
R E GIONA L COU NCI L F E AT U R E
an impressive array of assets from the Mayor of Armidale The Armidale region has something for everyone, offering adventure, cultural experiences, sporting endeavours and academic pursuits. Sitting atop the New England plateau and surrounded by spectacular waterfalls, awe-inspiring gorges and World Heritagelisted national parks, our setting is unique. In 1866 on the fringe of Armidale, showman Signor Vertelli, recognising the natural wonder of the area, delighted crowds at Dangar Falls when he walked a tightrope 180m above the falls. After successfully crossing the tight rope with a balance beam, he then returned and repeated the feat a number of times including pushing a wheelbarrow across. While not everyone possesses the sense of adventure of Signor Vertelli, the options to explore the outdoors in our region are immense. The bushwalking is unparalleled. You can climb giant rock formations, stroll through rainforests, encounter rare wildlife, watch powerful waterfalls, camp in the wilderness and paddle wild rivers. If you are feeling a little less intrepid, all is not lost. The Waterfall Way, stretching from Armidale to the coast, is one of the most scenic in Australia, taking you past iconic waterfalls just off the main road where you can relax at one of the viewing platforms and soak up the ambience. The region is well known for its rich pastoral lands, including 40 hectares of Costa’s glasshouse tomato-growing area at Guyra, which employs over 800 workers. The Metz Solar Farm is also based in the region, just off the Waterfall Way, and is an example of a large-scale renewables project, which will deliver enough energy to power around 40,000 homes per annum. Armidale is justifiably renowned as a cultural Mecca. The cultural precinct includes the New England Regional Art Museum, which is home to more than 5000 works of art including two of the most important and extensive collections of Australian art in regional Australia, the Howard Hinton and the Chandler Coventry Collections. Also in the precinct is the Aboriginal Cultural Centre and Keeping Place, housing two first-class galleries specialising in Aboriginal art. Armidale is also home to the New England Conservatorium of Music, which is a major drawcard for musical talent throughout the region. There is also a vibrant theatre scene where local and
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“The Waterfall Way, stretching from Armidale to the coast, is one of the most scenic in Australia, taking you past iconic waterfalls just off the main road where you can relax at one of the viewing platforms and soak up the ambience.” interstate acts perform at the Armidale Playhouse and the Hoskins Centre. Visitors should incorporate a show into their itinerary. Our economy is built around education and agriculture. These two industries have given the Armidale region its character. The University of New England is a significant presence in Armidale and, along with a number of boarding schools, has set a tone for us as an educational centre. The academic flavour flows through to agriculture, where a large number of beef breed societies are headquartered in Armidale, allowing them to integrate with the research undertaken by the university. The next wave of innovation for our region will come from the New England Renewable Energy Zone, which is slated to produce a significant amount of Australia’s renewable energy. We are proud of what we offer and look forward to welcoming you to our wonderful region. Cr Sam Coupland, Armidale Regional Council Mayor
Armidale T O W N F E AT U R E
dream destination
What’s so appealing about Armidale is that it’s a cosmopolitan and sophisticated urban centre located in a picturesque rural setting on the doorstep of some of the most scenic national parks in Australia. One of Armidale’s best-kept secrets is that there are four national parks, each with extraordinary natural attractions, all within an hour’s drive from the city centre. There’s a monumental tumble of giant granite boulders to climb in the Cathedral Rock National Park. And, along the aptly named Waterfall Way, Ebor Falls in the Guy Fawkes River National Park is one of several majestic waterfalls to admire. Much of the extensive wilderness in the New England and Oxley Wild Rivers National Parks is World Heritage listed. When you hike through the spectacular gorges and encounter dramatic waterfalls and hundreds of kilometres of pristine waterways in the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, you’ll see why. Only a 10-minute drive out of town is Saumarez Homestead, a great place to experience 19th-century pastoral life. It’s best to allow at least half a day to explore this gem of a National Trust property that remains virtually unchanged from the old days. It includes an elegant, fully furnished Edwardian mansion and 15 farm buildings with their collections of early farm equipment. It comes as no surprise to find there is a lively appreciation of the arts here. The New England Conservatorium, New
England Regional Art Museum, Hoskins Centre, Aboriginal Cultural Centre and Keeping Place, the university and a talented crowd of local and visiting musicians, artists, actors and enthusiasts ensure that the calendar is chock full of inspiring events and festivals. The past has a place in modern-day Armidale. Gracious cathedrals and stately buildings dating from the 1860s reflect the lofty aspirations of the early settlers and remain a hive of activity today. The best way to learn about the history of the city is to hop on board the Armidale Heritage Tour bus for an entertaining 2½-hour narrated sightseeing jaunt that takes in the most important sites. Armidale is home to the University of New England, an institution that has attracted students and staff from across the globe since its establishment as a university college in 1938, and is a major reason for the sophisticated, cosmopolitan feel about the place. With the university, TAFE, four prestigious private schools as well as public schools all achieving results, Armidale is widely known as a centre of education excellence. If you’re wondering where to eat, stylish cafés buzz with activity and serve up great
coffee and delicious meals all day. Restaurants, clubs and pubs also offer a wide range of contemporary Australian and international cuisines, often featuring food and wine produced in the surrounding countryside. Where to stay depends on how far into the wilderness you’re prepared to go for the night. You can, on one hand, descend into wilderness gorge country to camp in the company of wildlife and shower under waterfalls, or, on the other hand, head for the country and relax in a lovely cottage or historic homestead guesthouse with plump feather pillows, antique furniture and home-cooked meals. There are comfortable middle-ground options too, such as motels, hotels, bed and breakfasts and self-catering apartments in walking distance to all the in-town action. Come on up and visit us soon. RLM Images: Armidale Regional Council
www.visitarmidale.com.au
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Iconic scenery along the Waterfall Way; historic Armidale; Aboriginal Cultural Centre and Keeping Place; delicious culinary experiences.
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Top of the class
As its architecture reflects, Armidale is a city of exceptional style and outstanding credentials.
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Armidale T O W N F E AT U R E
ARMIDALE RLM 19
days gone by ARMIDALE
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Armidale T O W N F E AT U R E
Images supplied by Armidale & District Historical Society. ARMIDALE RLM 21
T O W N F E AT U R E Armidale
beauty abounds
New England’s extensive and spectacular national parks offer nature lovers a feast for the eyes.
Imagine a place where the geology and biodiversity is unique, where you can climb giant rock formations, stroll through rainforests, encounter rare wildlife, watch powerful waterfalls, camp in the wilderness, paddle wild rivers, and enjoy endless breathtaking views. This is all part of the Armidale nature experience – there are hundreds of thousands of hectares of national parks and state forests to explore. From Point Lookout in the New England National Park, you can gaze in all directions across unspoilt wilderness and the Bellinger Valley all the way to the Pacific Ocean. Rock wallabies and lyrebirds are among the rare
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sights you can expect to encounter along the walking tracks that zigzag through the banksia and snow gum populated bush around the lookout. Watching the sunrise from Point Lookout is a truly magical experience and one that will remain with you for a lifetime. Much of New England National Park is World Heritage listed, protecting a significant expanse of Antarctic beech rainforest that has thrived on the edge of the Great Dividing Range here for aeons. This is one of the very few places in the world where you can experience what the ancient supercontinent of Gondwana may have looked like.
The landscape in the Cathedral Rock National Park, an hour’s drive east of Armidale, offers a different spectacle. Here, there are a couple of walking tracks for spying wildlife and lovely views, and a tumble of huge granite boulders provides bushwalkers with a novel obstacle course. >
FACING PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: New England National Park; Point Lookout, New England National Park; Cathedral Rock National Park; Point Lookout, New England National Park; Gara Gorge, Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. ABOVE: Wollomombi Gorge, Oxley Wild Rivers National Park.
Armidale T O W N F E AT U R E
Much of New England National Park is World Heritage listed, protecting a significant expanse of Antarctic beech rainforest that has thrived on the edge of the Great Dividing Range here for aeons.
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Rivers meandering through the eastern fringe of the tablelands have created a unique landscape of deep gorges and dramatic waterfalls.
Hundreds of kilometres of waterways rage and meander through the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, where huge tracts of magnificent wilderness are also World Heritage listed. This is where camping, trout fishing, kayaking, swimming, canyoning and abseiling in incredibly beautiful locations are major attractions. Point Lookout in the New England National Park is the place to be for an unbeatable sunrise view and on a clear day, you see out to the Pacific Ocean. If you are keen for a hike, Lyrebird Track will lead you to Wrights Lookout, high up on an exposed basalt plateau. On a summer’s day, take a hike to Cascade Falls and enjoy a paddle in the fresh mountain streams. Blue Hole is a popular swimming spot for day trips, and the Threlfall Walking Track is a pleasant 5.5km loop that has scenic views and a chance to see the historic hydro-electric scheme. On the other hand, you can spend several days following the Bicentennial National Trail on foot, horseback or mountain bike through rugged country, camping in historic stockmen’s huts along the way.
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Rivers meandering through the eastern fringe of the tablelands have created a unique landscape of deep gorges and dramatic waterfalls. Wollomombi Falls, east of Armidale in the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, is one of several must-sees. These are the highest waterfalls in NSW. If you are fit, you can tackle the track that descends the steep fern-clad gully there to swim in the crystal-clear waterholes downstream. Walk the Wollomombi Gorge’s rim-top tracks for fabulous views in all directions, keeping an eye out for rare wallabies as you make your way through the bush. Ebor Falls is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Australia as the Guy Fawkes River plunges 100m over two waterfalls. The three lookout platforms give spectacular views out into the rugged gorge country. Another mustsee is Dangar Falls, reached via TD 19 along Dangarsleigh road, 21km south of Armidale. In spring, the cliff tops come alive with the colour of wildflowers, and after rain, the mighty falls thunder 120m
into the ravine, filling it with mist and rainbows. A particularly exhilarating way to experience the wonders of the gorge country is on board a Fleet Helicopters scenic tour. As the chopper swoops down the precipitous canyons, the bird’s-eye view of dry rainforest, flowing rivers and cascading waterfalls is amazing. Adventurous types can be dropped in the heart of this wild rugged country where camping, hiking, rock climbing, mountain biking, kayaking and fishing are popular pursuits. If being dropped by helicopter in a remote riverbed isn’t your thing, all these pursuits can be enjoyed by following walking tracks of varying levels of difficulty in the national parks. You’ll find easily accessible lookouts and pretty picnic and overnight camping spots near most of the major waterfalls. Explore deeply and tread lightly as you discover this magnificent country. RLM Words and images: Supplied
ABOVE: Ebor Falls, Guy Fawkes River National Park.
Armidale T O W N F E AT U R E
escape to the
New England The Adventurers Guide to the Perfect Regional Getaway
MOORABACK CABIN Nestled in Werrikimbe National Park at the head of the Hastings River is the newly refurbished Mooraback Cabin overlooking ancient Gondwanan rainforest. Sleeping up to six guests, this wheelchairfriendly accommodation provides the perfect getaway for couples, families and small friend groups. Just over an hour from Walcha on 2WD-accessible roads, Mooraback Cabin is eco-friendly and has all the facilities to provide you with a comfortable stay, such as electricity and hot water. Feel any remnants of the city melt away while enjoying the serenity and seclusion of this nature escape. On the traditional lands of the Dunghutti people, the diverse landscapes of Werrikimbe National Park are home to close to 1000 plant species and approximately 52 mammal species. Enjoy your morning coffee as you watch wallabies and eastern grey kangaroos graze and bask on the lawn surrounding Mooraback Cabin. Whether you want to spend your day relaxing with a book on the sundeck or exploring the incredible scenery, this location has something for everyone. Immerse yourself in nature by taking advantage of some of the incredible walking and cycling tracks available, such as the Platypus Pool walking track. Test your platypus-spotting skills with a stroll along this 5km child-friendly loop walk that follows the Hastings River, and be at the pools at dawn or dusk for your best chances at spotting one of these elusive mammals. The warmer months offer the perfect climate for exploring Werrikimbe National Park and the stunning landscapes of surrounding Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. During winter, frosty mornings are spent overlooking the landscape by the indoor wood heater, and nights cosied up by the campfire under the sparkling night sky. >
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T O W N F E AT U R E Armidale
low range in the
New England
The trails getting into some of the campgrounds in the New England area national parks are a big part of the adventure. They are genuine low-range 4WD trails, and you must have a suitable vehicle and a good understanding of how to traverse steep tracks – they are not for the faint of heart. Those making the journey are rewarded by breathtaking views over pristine gorges, camping and picnics beside crystal-clear water, and a genuine sense of isolation and solitude. These are very remote
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campgrounds, wild places, and this is what makes them so appealing. But visitors must be prepared for the unexpected. They offer an opportunity for those looking for a getaway on the more adventurous side, the ability to escape the crowds and crammed-in campgrounds. These are places that evoke that “ahhh” moment from the time you arrive, and are popular among swimmers, fishers, bird watchers, artists, 4WD groups and families.
Armidale T O W N F E AT U R E
RIVERSIDE CAMPGROUND AND PICNIC AREA As the name suggests, Riverside Campground and Picnic Area boasts a stunning backdrop overlooking the Apsley River. It features eight campsites and is only 50km from Walcha. It is an unspoilt paradise. Paddle or canoe along the Apsley River, taking in the spectacular Macleay Gorges, and have a true outdoor dining experience using one of the many barbecues
and campfires on offer. Those wanting to get the heart pumping can also try their hand at the Budds Mare Riverside Track, or meander down to the river and relax while fishing for bass. Set up camp overlooking the Apsley River, and as night falls toast your marshmallows on the fire and fall asleep under the stars to the soothing sounds of the bush.
HALLS PEAK CAMPGROUND AND PICNIC AREA YOUDALES HUT CAMPGROUND AND PICNIC AREA Youdales Hut Campground and Picnic Area, 101km from Walcha, is steeped in pastoral and cultural history. Adventure seekers will be immersed in the rugged beauty of the region, and as you traverse deep into the valley, take a moment to imagine the journey that early graziers and settlers took on horseback while working the gorge country. Enjoy a picnic outside Youdales Hut, which was recently rebuilt after being burnt down in the 2019-2020 wildfires, and venture inside to be transported back to days gone by. This secluded oasis features three campsites to choose from. Soak in the natural beauty of Kunderang Brook, which serves as a pristine swimming spot in summer and as a place of quiet reflection in the cooler months. As you settle in for the night, make sure to listen out for local wildlife, and possibly even the call of a dingo.
In the western precinct of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, 97km from Armidale, a steep descent into the gorge will reward adventure seekers with the serenity and seclusion of Halls Peak. Sitting by the Chandler River, you will be hard-pressed to find a more rugged or remote site for your weekend getaway. There are 13 private campsites that all offer access or views over the river. Fill your days with swimming, canoeing and fishing in the warmer months or take advantage of mild weather for bushwalking in the cooler months. Chances are your only neighbours will be some furry locals. Wallabies and bandicoots are frequent visitors to the area. RLM Images: Gerhard Koertner/DPE, David Waugh/DPE, James Evans.DPE
National Parks & Wildlife acknowledges and pays respect to Elders and Traditional Custodians of this land – past and present. For more information or to book a stay at Mooraback Cabin or one of the low-range 4WD access-only sites, please visit www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au or call the National Parks Contact Centre on 1300 072 757. Alternatively, inquiries can be directed to your local area officers, who are more than happy to help plan your trip.
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step back in time An Edwardian mansion that served as one family’s home for 90 years has long been regarded as one of New England’s most precious jewels.
The fully furnished, two-storey Saumarez Homestead is a living time capsule of pastoral life from the 1880s to the 1980s. Set on 10 hectares near the Armidale airport and surrounded by a collection of farm buildings dating back nearly 200 years, the home is one of few in the country that remains virtually untouched since it was built. The picturesque gardens surrounding the homestead were designed for New England’s distinct four seasons. The garden comes alive in early spring, with swathes of colourful bulbs, cottage flowers and spreading wisteria.
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Summer delivers masses of roses in the Heritage Rose Garden (a collaborative project with the Australian Garden History Society) that includes more than 600 roses, representing each of the major rose cultivar groups that were mostly bred before 1930. Then there is the stunning contrast of tall blue skies and rich autumn colour in heritage trees and spreads of wildflowers. Visitors are transported into family pastoral life with a guided house tour. Visitors have access to most of the 30 furnished rooms across two storeys and wonderful old collections that have been largely untouched for generations. >
Armidale T O W N F E AT U R E
CLOCKWISE: Saumarez Homestead was the White family home for 90 years; the second-floor hallway, like most of the home, is a time capsule of life more than a century ago; the magnificent cedar staircase; FJ White built the homestead in 1888; an old, hand-coloured aerial shot of the homestead.
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For a glimpse of life in a bygone era when “Saumarez” was self-sufficient, explore the outbuildings dating up to 1910 that are complete with 19th-century farming tools and equipment. The Anaiwan people occupied the region for thousands of years before pastoral settlement, led by Henry Dumaresq, began in the 1830s. It wasn’t long before the property boasted a well-stocked store, with tools, clothing and food provisions for those moving north “beyond the boundaries” of settlement. The White family purchased the station in 1874 and developed the land and outbuildings into one of the largest and most successful rural properties in New England. Second-generation grazier Francis John White, better known as FJ, had a single-storey homestead built in 1888 at a cost of £2500. It was a befitting home for wife Maggie and their ever-increasing family (they finished with nine children), along with the resident cook, two maids and children’s nurse. The home was always full of life, especially when the family entertained, which was often. “Saumarez” became well known for its first-class country hospitality. Entertainment focused on tennis, golf, picnics and riding parties, all carefully presided over by Maggie and her five daughters. To cater for its enhanced social role, the home was in dire need of expansion. In the early years of the 20th century, the wool industry was flourishing, and the property, with its fine wool flock, was reaping the benefits. While Maggie and a daughter travelled abroad in 1905, a second level was added by the original builder, applying all the modern amenities of the time: gas was piped throughout the home for lighting, a hot water system installed, reticulated water and sewerage and a heated glasshouse for the garden. After FJ’s and Maggie’s passing in the mid 1930s, the house, now doubled in size, was occupied by daughter Mary White, who played a prominent role in establishing the Armidale CWA branch. Another unmarried sister, Elsie, lived in the home all her life until her death at age 96 years in 1981. Three years after Elsie’s death, the White family handed over the house and contents to the National Trust (NSW), which maintains the home, collection, farm buildings and grounds. Founded in 1945, the National Trust is Australia’s oldest and largest independent conservation organisation. Saumarez Homestead is one of 35 heritage properties owned or managed by the National Trust (NSW), with a vision to keep the state’s historical and naturally significant places and collections alive for future generations. This important conservation work is sustained by volunteers and funded by income generated from visitors, generous donations and National Trust (NSW) memberships. RLM
Three years after Elsie’s death, the White family handed over the house and contents to the National Trust (NSW), which maintains the home, collection, farm buildings and grounds.
Located at 230 Saumarez Road (enter via Armidale Airport from the New England Highway), the homestead is open on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday from 10am to 4pm. It is closed during winter. The only way to see inside is through a guided tour. Please see the National Trust (NSW) website for details.
FACING PAGE: On guided tours, visitors are told the remarkable story of the White family, early pastoralists in the area. Each of the 30 furnished rooms has its own story. FROM TOP: Saumarez Homestead from a different angle; a watercolour of the homestead by Clarence Town artist June Beckett; the old bathroom; bedroom; and the view from upstairs.
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