Nature Notes - Fall 2021

nature notes VOLUME 11 • FALL 2021

CENTRAL COAST STATE PARKS ASSOCIATION

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A people without the knowledge of their past history, origin and culture is like a tree without roots.

- Marcus Garvey

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hould it be a surprise that people are drawn to storytelling? After all, it is how the human race has passed down information from our beginning. It is It all started when I was two ... in our nature to want to hear other people’s stories and to tell our own. Our children enjoy hearing their grandparents relive their childhood through their stories. We crave the oral and written histories presented through podcasts, books and radio. We research our family trees and test our DNA to track our ancestry. We do this because we want to have a place in this world and feel rooted.

I have gravitated to history throughout my life and have spent many hours poring over books, seeking the stories which created imagery I could relive in my mind. In my days as a Park Ranger, I often gave guided hikes and talks that painted a picture of what an area may have looked like hundreds of years ago. I facilitated oral history interviews with individuals that had a connection to the land and the stories it told. It was important for me to allow people to make the leap for themselves, to understand that how we used that land had an impact on how ecosystems changed.

Hearing these stories was a gift to me; it was so meaningful to be passing them on for others to share.

The history of the land we occupy and the people who lived on it before us is a valuable resource that must help guide our decision making for the future. To honor our past and acknowledge our present, this issue of Nature Notes highlights the history of our park lands and the significance of the many cultures who have lived on them. We celebrate all those who have lived here before us to make San Luis Obispo County what it is today.

I am honored to be working with our State Park partners that share the passion for our cultural and natural history and sharing it with our community and visitors of the Central Coast State Parks. And I am honored to learn from each of you as we all have a story to tell.

May each step you take today lead to a better tomorrow.

- Kristin Howland CCSPA is an independent 501(c)(3) non-profit. We are one of 85 similar cooperating associations across the state who work in partnership with State Parks. Tax ID #: 51-0198869.

Cover photo courtesy of Mimi Ditchie | flickr.com/photos/mimigd Newsletter design: Brady Teufel 2 | FALL 2021 - CCSPA

Staff Directory Kristin Howland Executive Director ed@centralcoastparks.org (805) 548-0391 Alissa Maddren Membership and Events Coordinator membership@centralcoastparks.org (805) 548-0384 Monica Rutherford Program Coordinator programs@centralcoastparks.org (805) 548-0385 Sheri Robesky Retail Operations Manager store@centralcoastparks.org (805) 548-0392 Julie Lewis Retail Operations Coordinator retail@centralcoastparks.org (805) 550-3784

BOARD MEMBERS Marylou Gooden - Board Chair Robert Priola - Treasurer Tyler Conrad - Vice Chair Valerie Glahn - Director Laurel Cadena - Director Lisa Torres - Director

STATE PARKS LIASONS Danielle Bronson State Park Interpreter III Oceano Dunes District Cara O’Brien District Interpretive Program Manager SLO Coast District

www.centralcoastparks.org

QUICK FACT

1,000,000+

Tons of rock quarried from Morro Rock between the late 1800s and 1968

Exhibit Highlights History of rural Black Americans

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e are so excited to share that from August 15 to October 10, a new traveling exhibit will be featured at the Spooner Ranch house at Montaña de Oro State Park. We Are Not Strangers Here: African American Histories in Rural California highlights unknown and untold stories of Black farmers, ranchers, and rural residents. These stories challenge myths about early California and create new narratives about freedom, self-governance, and civic culture. African Americans are not strangers to rural California; the culture of cultivating the earth runs deep. Over successive migrations, generations of African Americans settled in agricultural areas from as far north as Siskiyou County to the Central Valley and Imperial County in the South. Black residents had a favorable impact on their rural communities, opening schools, building churches, and exercising vigilance about the equal rights of citizens. Some African Americans pursued lives and work in all-Black communities, away from the limits and discrimination found in society at large. Today, Black agricultural stewardship continues at farms and ranches across the state, and urban farms thrive in many cities across the state.

We Are Not Strangers Here: African American Histories in Rural California is a collaboration between the Cal Ag Roots Project at the California Institute for Rural Studies; Susan Anderson of the California African American Museum; the California Historical Society; Exhibit Envoy; and Dr. Caroline Collins, Post-Doc Researcher from UC San Diego. This project was made possible with support from California Humanities, a non-profit partner of the National Endowment for the Humanities, and the 11th Hour Project at the Schmidt Family Foundation.

Farmhand and horse standing next to shed, c. 1908. Courtesy African American Museum & Library at Oakland.

p Rural schoolchildren in the Central Valley. q Teachers at Allensworth Elementary School in Bakersfield. Courtesy California State Parks.

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ontana de oro

past, present and future

As you take this photo journey through the years at Montaña ...de Oro State Park, ponder the questions – what will the park look ..like 10, 50 or 100 years from now, and what part will you play in creating it? - Shanda Grunkemeyer-Gibbs

Sandspit t 1943-46

During WWII, the sandspit was part of the Army’s Baywood Park Training Area. The spit was used as a maneuver area for troops, vehicles and equipment to train before shipping overseas.

2019 u

Many roads left by the Army have been converted into trails such as this one that serves as access to the beach from the sandspit parking area.

Morro Bay View t 1885

Looking north from the future park entrance, the small town of Morro Bay is just being settled.

2020 u

Looking across the sandspit, the iconic smokestacks of Morro Bay can be seen, but for how much longer?

Campground t 1968

Islay Creek campground was one of the first improvements made at the newly created Montaña de Oro State Park.

2018 u

The trees have grown, but the Islay Creek campground still remains a primitive camping area with vault toilets and no running water.

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Spooner Ranch House t 1992

The Spooner Ranch House officially becomes the park visitor center complete with exhibits for the first time.

2013 u

An extensive rehabilitation of the Ranch House, from the foundation up, took many years to complete. The current furnishings depict what a house might have looked like in the 1910s, which was the peak of the Spooner’s ownership.

Buchon Landing t 1892

At the mouth of Islay Creek (today’s Spooner Cove), rancher A.B. Spooner built Buchon Landing to ship his goods to San Francisco because there was no easy road access at the time.

2020 u

Today, the two mile ADA Bluff Trail traverses the upper bluff where the remnant foundation of the storage barn can still be seen.

Corallina Cove t 1900

Beach combing at Corallina Cove.

The Cove is adjacent to Spooner’s, located along the present-day Bluff Trail.

2020 u

Tidepooling at Corallina Cove.

Little Morro t 1965

This rock outcropping, which resembled a miniature Morro Rock, sits in Spooner’s Cove at the mouth of Islay Creek. It was rounded and well-vegetated before being purchased by State Parks.

2020 u

The degradation of the rock outcropping at Spooner’s Cove is a result of years of park visitors climbing on it.

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communities in the sand: the dunites and ‘moy mell’

The weather on the coast of central San Luis Obispo County was ideal for Dunite lifestyle. It was consistently moderate with plenty of clams on the beach and fish in the sea. Wild edible plants could be foraged for and vegetables could be obtained from the agricultural fields inland (often at night).

During harvest season produce could often be found at the Southern Pacific Railroad loading dock in Oceano, where it had been damaged or culled out as being not quite good enough for the market. Some had fresh vegetable gardens next to cabins they had built in the willow thickets behind the foredunes. Best of all there was no rent or taxes; they could salvage wood and lumber from the beach and with a few basic hand tools they could create their own unique living space in the Dunes.

The people living in the Dunes stayed mostly to themselves, largely unnoticed by residents of the small community of Oceano. At times they did odd jobs in town for money, or traded artwork they had created for essentials such as coffee, tobacco, beans, flour, and alcohol at the general store in Oceano. They lived in harmony with the environment and their impact on the land was minimal, consisting mainly of of firewood they gathered on the beach and in the dunes.

“Gavin” Arthur came into the Dunes in the late 1920s and decided to build a Utopian Colony there that would be called “Moy Mell,” about midway between Arroyo Grande Creek and Oso Flaco. He was a man of means and the grandson of the 21st President of the United States, Chester Alan Arthur I. In September of 1931 he began construction of the Colony.

Part of Gavin’s dream was for Moy Mell to become a part of the already existing Dunite community which had varying interests and beliefs. He felt a mixture of their diverse perspectives could add much to the spirit of Moy Mell. To that end he stated the motto of Moy Mell would be “INDIVIDUALITY WITHIN COMMUNITY.” Gavin founded a magazine at Moy Mell, hoping it would become the “voice of the Dunites” and would include what they each had to offer. The magazine would be named Dune Forum. It would be a true forum, where issues could be discussed from all perspectives over a dune fire at night. The magazine was published from late 1933 to May 15, 1934 and is now available on-line through our local South County Historical Society website.

The Dunite population began to wane during World War II, and by the late 1940s the dunes were largely empty. Astrologer Bert Schievink was the last surviving member of the Dunites who was known to be still living in the Dunes when he passed away in 1974, after having lived there for 34 years.

A collection of books written by and about the Dunites, along with some of their artwork and artifacts can be seen at the Historic Railroad Depot in Oceano, which is open on Sundays from 1 to 3 P.M. Also on display at the Depot is Gavin Arthur’s cabin. It was moved from the Dunes to Oceano in 1946 and is the only surviving remnant of the Dunite era. - Norm Hammond

Moy Mell in the early 1930s. The second cabin behind the larger community house belonged to Gavin Arthur, its founder. The cabin was moved out of the Dunes in 1946 and is now on display behind the Oceano Depot.

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Virgil Hodges courtesy of Norm Hanmond

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he story of the Dunites began around the turn of the twentieth century, shortly after the Southern Pacific Railroad tracks first arrived in Oceano in 1895. During that time an eclectic group of people who became known as Dunites began Chester Alan “Gavin” living in the sand dunes of Oceano on Arthur III a regular basis. The diverse group was made up of hoboes, free spirits, hermits, artists, writers, poets, mystics, spiritual seekers, and many others who came there to be alone and partake in the beauty and unique spirit of the Dunes. A separate group came later to join the Dune colony of Moy Mell.

Meet state park interpreter Kristen mcnally

Can you tell us a little about yourself and your background?

I am a State Park Interpreter I and a mom to two amazing kids, my daughter Riley (7) and my son Neil (4). My husband Patrick and I live in Lompoc with our kids and are both originally from the suburbs of Chicago. We honeymooned in Pismo Beach in 2011 and loved the beauty of the area so much that we moved from the Chicago area to here in 2012 following a job opportunity for my husband. After moving, I landed an awesome job working for California State Parks.

In my free time, I enjoy spending time outdoors with my kids, especially in our backyard and going on family adventures. I also enjoy going to concerts and listening to music; I enjoy anything with a folksy songwriter vibe.

How long have you been working for California State Parks and with the Oceano Dunes District, and what have your positions been?

After moving to the area, I started searching for a middle school social studies teaching position and came across the State Park Interpreter job posting. As I read the description, my first thoughts were “well, I don’t know another language…” but felt intrigued to read more as words like “teach”, “history”, “lead school groups”, etc. caught my attention.

With my background as an educator and history major, it felt like a perfect fit for me. This began my career with California State Parks in 2012, where I worked at La Purisima Mission State Historic Park as a Park Interpretive Specialist until 2019 when I accepted a position as an Interpreter I for the Oceano Dunes District.

Tell us about your role as a State Park Interpreter.

I get to teach in the great outdoors! I lead a variety of programs including Junior Ranger Programs, Campfire Programs, and programs for school groups. Topics covered include dune formation, western monarch butterflies, Northern Chumash culture, and many more fun topics.

With a background in education, I love that I get to share the amazing natural, cultural, and recreational resources of the Oceano Dunes District with park visitors. I absolutely love my job and enjoy creating and presenting programs for kids and adults to enjoy when visiting the park.

Tell us about the Northern Chumash PORTS program you host.

The Northern Chumash PORTS program is a virtual learning experience for 3rd grade students. This program is presented around the Oceano Lagoon live in front of an iPad and virtually streamed via Zoom or other digital platforms to teachers and students. Students watch and interact with the program in either their traditional classroom settings or distance learning locations. This PORTS program shares the importance of terrestrial and marine resources that were used by ancestors of the yak tityu tityu yak tiłhini tribe for around 10,000 years. The program highlights a walk through the native plant garden, focusing on native plants of the area and their uses by Northern Chumash ancestors.

Additionally, a variety of replica artifacts including tools, musical instruments, and more are shared with students.

What is your favorite subject or topic to interpret and why?

Wow, that’s a tough one to narrow down! There’s always something enjoyable in every topic I teach. However, my absolute favorite program to interpret is the Little Ranger program, geared towards younger visitors aged 2-6 years old and their parents. I created this program while working at La Purisima Mission and introduced it to the Oceano Dunes District. The Little Ranger Program incorporates learning in nature through songs, books, and hands-on learning stations. I love providing an opportunity to foster an early appreciation for nature and wildlife and seeing the eagerness of young learners is absolutely inspiring.

- Interview by Monica Rutherford

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the rich history of seaweed farming at harmony headlands state park

Yue Yim and family.

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armony Headlands State Park might be small in size, but it is rich in history. This beautiful coastal property has been home to numerous individuals, families, and communities over the millennia, each with important stories that illustrate the human connection to, and reliance on, the natural environment. One such story is that of the Chinese residents who harvested seaweed along the coastal bluffs of northern San Luis Obispo County.

The Gold Rush brought thousands of Chinese immigrants to California throughout the 1850s. In the years following, some of these former gold miners moved south to the Central Coast, where seaweed, a Chinese delicacy, naturally grows along the rocky shore.

Seaweed farms dotted the coastline from Cayucos to San Simeon from as early as the mid-1860s through the 1960s. Multiple Chinese families participated in this enterprise, and their presence is remembered today through local place names, including the cove just south of Harmony Headlands, known as “China Harbor.”

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The Yim house near Harmony Headlands.

Chinese residents created a small but thriving community within the rural coast of northern San Luis Obispo County, where in addition to harvesting seaweed and abalone, they also worked as laborers and miners in the area’s quicksilver mines.

Historical records indicate that Ulva, commonly known as “sea lettuce,” was the preferred type of seaweed harvested by these seaweed farmers. But many different kinds of seaweed grow naturally on the rocky shores around Harmony Headlands. To encourage sea lettuce to thrive, seaweed farmers burned away undesirable varieties of seaweed using kerosene torches.

This would encourage only the sea lettuce to grow to maturity, which would take about four months. They would then harvest the mature seaweed leaves, wash off residual sand, and carry the leaves up the slippery bluff, where they would be dried in the sun to reduce their weight.

The seaweed was shipped to larger markets, typically in San Francisco, and from there it was often shipped to China.

The Yim family lived along the coastline adjacent to present-day Harmony Headlands State Park during the early twentieth century. Yue Yim, his wife May, and their four children were neighbors to the Storni family, whose former dairy farm now makes up Harmony Headlands State Park. The Yim family used the road running through the property to access their house and seaweed farm.

Few records remain that reveal the everyday life of these seaweed harvesters, though we know much of their days were spent along the coast in solitude. The building that served as the Chinese community center in Cambria was recently restored by the local land trust Greenspace, and can be visited today. These material remnants from the past serve as testament to the resilience of the Central Coast Chinese community that lived at, and by, the sea.

- Amy Hart Ph.D. State Historian II, San Luis Obispo Coast District Sources: Seaweed Gatherers on the Central Coast of California - Dolores K. Young; History of San Luis Obispo County, California - Myron Angel; 1930 US Census.

Photo credit: Fred Storni - Hearst San Simeon State Historical Monument Photograph Archives

INTERACTIVE

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early american settlers of Montana de oro Curious about the origins of the Spooner Ranch House? Ever wondered who planted all the eucalyptus trees at Montaña de Oro? Use your phone’s camera app to view the QR code on the right and dive into a virtual exhibit by State Park staff and docents from the Spooner Ranch House. Or, enter: https://bit.ly/2XIsWnF INTERACTIVE

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Land Grant History of montana de Oro Use your phone’s camera app to view the QR code on the right and join State Park Historian Amy Hart as she explores the lives of Ramona Wilson and her daughter, Ramona Hillard, two female landowners who lived along the wild coast of Montaña de Oro State Park. Or, enter: https://bit.ly/3gNBn8b

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Paul Irving

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connecting with local tribes through interpretation

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erving as the tribal liaison for San Luis Obispo Coast District is one of the most rewarding aspects of my role at California State Parks. Tribal liaisons consult with tribes on tribal cultural resource issues within State Parks, work with tribal members on education and inChad Jackson - San terpretation, and research the tribes’ Luis Obispo Coast District Tribal LIason cultural heritage--often in the field with tribal representatives.

In the past year as the Morro Bay Museum of Natural History closed and the world adapted to the virtual platform, interpretive staff worked diligently to produce educational content for teachers, students and the public to access online. I conducted interviews with tribal members, created videos and other digital media, and consulted with tribes to write narratives and interpretive content that had not been revised for decades. Several projects involved collaborating with the yak tityu tityu yak tiłhini (Northern Chumash) and T’epot’aha’l (Salinan) tribes for content for educational programs and new museum exhibits.

One project was finalizing two land acknowledgment panels at the Museum to respect the ongoing legacy of the Northern Chumash and Salinan people. Together we came up with messages acknowledging the native people of the area while relating it to the commitment to conservation of our community. The two panels now greet you at the entrance to the museum’s exhibit hall. I also conducted interviews with Salinan elder Patti Dunton about her tribe’s history, struggles and successes, and the tribe’s connection with the Oak Woodlands, which is part of the new habitat exhibits at the museum.

A calling to work with Native American tribes began for me as a young man drawn to the culture and wisdom of native

people of the Pacific and Americas. After taking a course called “Human Impact on the Earth,” I knew I wanted to work in a field involving native cultural work. I worked my first archaeological excavation in Montaña de Oro State Park with Cal Poly’s Dr. Terry Jones and the path began to appear. On the project I formed a friendship with Northern Chumash elder LeiLynn Olivas Odom who valued the science of archaeology as it helps us learn about the environment. She had a spiritual connection which seemed to permeate the archaeology and everything else she was about. Her connection was the same energy I felt in Hawaii amongst the kapuna, and one I continued to see amongst other native individuals I met through my years traveling and working. Through guidance from her, Dr. Terry Jones, other professors and a long list of good reads, I developed an understanding of how vital cultural resources work is to managing the environment -- how the human story, art, mythology, and tradition ties us to the environments of the world.

LeiLynn remained a friend and mentor for me as I continued working with her son Johnny and Peggy and her sister Mona Tucker, who had taken on the responsibility of tribal spokesperson. Sadly LeiLynn passed last year and shortly after I woefully interviewed her granddaughter Willow Olivas Odom about her grandmother’s legacy. A short clip was used for CDPR’s Weekly Digest last November during Native American Heritage month and it’s also published on our interpretation site.

As I continue the role of tribal liaison, I have many to thank for their guidance and inspiration, and I am grateful to be part of an amazing team at the SLO Coast District. Special thanks to Kelsey Shaffer and Haylee Bautista for help in creating the Chumash panel; to Willow for interviewing; and Patti for interviewing and helping on the Salinan panel. If you’re inclined to learn more, videos and content are up on the SLO Coast digital platforms! - Chad Jackson

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Central Coast State Parks Association 202 Tank Farm Road, Suite H2 San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 (805) 548-0390 www.centralcoastparks.org

BECOME A NEW OR RENEWING CCSPA MEMBER All members receive a copy of Nature Notes quarterly newsletter, discounts to CCSPA events and discounts at participating Public Lands Alliance stores. Additional benefits include: $25 Hummingbird

$50 Otter

$75 Raft of Otters

H Two vouchers for

H Free admissions for two

Family Membership that includes two adults and unlimited kids 17 and under.

H 10% discount at all

H Four vouchers for

All benefits of Otter membership, plus:

admission to the Morro Bay Museum of Natural History CCSPA nature stores

adults to the Mind Walks Lecture Series

admission to the Morro Bay Museum of Natural History

H 10% discount at all CCSPA nature stores

$100 Coyote All benefits of Raft of Otters membership, plus:

H Invitation to the Ice

Cream Social at Montaña de Oro

H 15% discount at all CCSPA nature stores

H Explore Parks Passport discount coupon book

$250 Monarch

$500 Gray Whale

$1,000 Oak Grove

All benefits of Coyote membership, plus:

All benefits of Monarch membership, plus:

All benefits of Gray Whale membership, plus:

H Invitation to Afternoon with the Monarchs at Pismo Monarch Butterfly Grove

H Invitation to Martini de Morro

H Invitation to a behind-thescenes tour of Hearst Castle

H An exclusive holiday shopping night at the Morro Bay Museum of Natural History

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Please make checks payable to CCSPA and mail to: CCSPA | 202 Tank Farm Rd. Suite H2, SLO, CA 93401 You can also pay online at: centralcoastparks.org/membership