Building Outdoor Furniture (preview)

BUILDING

OUTDOOR FURNITURE

Classic Deck, Patio & Garden Projects That Will Last a Lifetime

Edited by

CHAD McCLUNG

Contents Chairs & Tables

The Haycock Adirondack.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Classic Adirondack. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Adirondack Table & Footstool. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Outdoor Table & Benches. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 High-Top Patio Chair. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 High-Top Patio Table. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Octagonal Picnic Table. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

Benches Adirondack Glider. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Easy-Breezy Porch Swing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Build a Bench. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Garden Bench.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92

Garden Potting Bench.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Garden Arbor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Arbor Gate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Garden Obelisk. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128

Wood & Finishing How Good Is Plastic Wood?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Wood vs. Wild.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Choosing Wood for Outdoor Projects. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Outdoor Finishes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Restoring Outdoor Projects. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Contributors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160

CHAIRS & TABLES

The Haycock Adirondack

The Haycock Adirondack A modern tweak to a classic design marries comfort and style.

By Paul Anthony and Ken Burton

4

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

The Haycock Adirondack

T

CHAIRS & TABLES

he Adirondack chair is

tapered configuration of the seat and

synonymous with the best of

arms. The seat’s shape mimics the

summer: You know, relaxing

natural splay of relaxed legs, while

in the shade with friends and family,

the arms keep elbows comfortably

or simply sittin’ back on a warm

close to the body. Also, the back

evening with a drink in hand. These

splats angle rearward to create a

iconic chairs, with rear legs that

slight curvature for your back, and

lean forward to become part of the

include a release gap for your spine.

seat structure, come in many forms,

The overall effect is that of your

and are made of everything from

body nestling into the chair. Nice.

construction lumber to injection-

Having few square corners, this

molded plastic. But some Adirondack

project involves a fair amount of cut-

chairs aren’t that comfortable.

to-fit work, which makes the build

Others are so deep and low that

enjoyably challenging. You’ll see. We

they’re hard to get out of. Many are

built ours from thermally modified

huge, heavy, and difficult to move.

poplar for durability and light weight.

That’s why we took notice of this design by Haycock Township,

Other good outdoor woods include cedar, cypress, and mahogany.

PA-based architect and furniture maker Ric Hanisch. Its curved and tapered geometry combines ergonomics and style to create a chair that invites relaxation but that sits high enough to easily rise from. It’s comfortable, compact, and portable enough to move around easily. The comfort lies partially in the outwardly

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

5

CHAIRS & TABLES

Classic Adirondack

Classic Adirondack The inclined seat and wide armrests make this iconic design the most comfortable chair in the great outdoors.

By Lori Mossor

T

he Adirondack chair

often used in paneling and decks. I

symbolizes relaxation

will be painting my chairs in some

and the onset of summer

fun summer colors, but you can

weather. With its deeply angled back

also get a beautiful natural-wood

and wide armrests, it conjures up

finish by using an exterior varnish.

images of vacationing, reading for

Other options include staining or

pleasure, and ice-cold drinks. There’s

just letting your chair naturally

no better time than now to build a

weather to gray over time.

few of these classic outdoor chairs.

14

If you’re going au naturel, consider

Long-lasting cypress is a perfect

springing for teak. It’s expensive but

wood for this project. It is resistant

absolutely gorgeous and a top choice

to decay and insects; in fact, it’s

for high-end outdoor furniture.

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

Classic Adirondack

CHAIRS & TABLES

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

15

CHAIRS & TABLES

Adirondack Table & Footstool

Adirondack Table & Footstool These matching pieces will give your feet a break and keep your favorite beverage close at hand.

By Bill Sands

Y

ou’ve made an Adirondack chair and would like

to complement it with a matching table and footstool.

Well, you’re in luck—see the easy-to-build pieces shown here. Using 3/4"-thick milled cedar, I’ll show you how to make the table first, and then the footstool.

24

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

Adirondack Table & Footstool

CHAIRS & TABLES

Figure 1: Table Exploded View 3/8" cherry plug #8 × 1-1/2" flathead screw F

#8 × 2" flathead screw

3/8"

Rabbet, 3/8" deep 2-1/2" dado, 3/8" deep

5" 2-1/2" dado, 3/8" deep

D

G

#8 × 1-1/2" flathead screw

H 2-1/2" B

E

C 10" 1"

I

#8 × 2-1/2" flathead screw

1/4" × 1-1/2" dowel Rabbet, 3/8" deep

Table

1/4" × 1-3/4" dowel A

Start with the leg assemblies 1. Mill enough 3/4" stock for the table.

4. Cut the blanks for the slat

dadoes. Now, switch to a standard

(See the Cut List.) Use a wood that

supports (B) to 2-1/2" × 18-3/8".

saw blade, and rip the spacer to width

resists rot and decay such as redwood,

Now, cut the blanks for the

using the resulting dimension.

cedar, or cypress. I used cedar.

uprights (C) to 3-1/2" × 19-3/4".

TIP: When working with cedar, you’ll

2. Copy and enlarge the table foot

5. To make the half–lap joints, you

likely find a lot of knots. Buy extra

half pattern (Figure 3). Cut it out

need a dado set, sacrificial miter

stock in order to use only the clearest

and use it to make a whole full-

gauge extension fence, stop, and

wood to maximize structural integrity.

sized foot template on a 6-1/2" ×

spacer block (Figure 1). The spacer

18-3/8" piece of 1/2"-thick plywood,

block—precisely made—helps

6. Reinstall the 3/4" dado set, and

bandsawing the piece to shape

establish the dado widths in the

add a sacrificial extension fence to

and sanding to the cutline.

feet (A) and slat supports (B). First,

your miter gauge. Now, using two

crosscut the spacer block to 4" long.

scrap pieces of the 3/4" milled stock,

3. Joint the edges of the planed

To establish the width of the spacer

raise the dado set to slightly less

boards from Step 1. Now, lay the

block, temporarily install your 3/4"

than 3/8". Cut rabbets on the ends

bottom edge of the template flush

dado set, and measure its exact

of the two test pieces, and check

with a jointed edge and in a knot-

width. Subtract that dimension from

for a flush fit using your finger to

free section. Trace out two feet (A).

3-1/2"—the distance from your saw

detect any unevenness (Photo A).

Crosscut the board sections oversized

fence to the outside of the dado set

Raise the blade as needed to sneak

that contain the feet outlines.

once your saw is set up to cut the

up on a perfect half-lap joint.

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

25

CHAIRS & TABLES

Outdoor Table & Benches

Outdoor Table & Benches This sturdy-but-stylish design is perfect for dining alfresco.

By Ken Burton

T

here are few things that

the elements and accommodate

compare with the simple

the kind of extreme movement

joy of sitting down for

that wood encounters outdoors.

a nice meal outdoors with the

To suit the bill, I designed the

sun shining and a gentle breeze

top to allow a variety of seating

blowing. While this alfresco dining

arrangements (some requiring extra

set can’t do a lot to guarantee

chairs in addition to the benches

you the perfect weather, it does

shown here) while incorporating

provide a great place to enjoy it.

gentle curves and inward slanting

When my client approached me

32

legs to provide comfort and a touch

with this commission, the goal was to

of style. To ensure durability, I

design a dining table and bench set

used naturally weather-resistant

that would accommodate up to eight

cedar, joining the parts with strong,

people without appearing oversized

but easily made “loose” tenons

or undersized. She wanted something

fixed in place with waterproof

with the kind of subtle grace that

glue. Topping all this off with

is usually lacking in commercial

a tough finish guarantees that

outdoor furniture, and made of

this furniture will be part of the

material that would withstand

family for a long time to come.

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

Outdoor Table & Benches

CHAIRS & TABLES

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

33

High-Top Patio Chair

CHAIRS & TABLES

High-Top Patio Chair This comfortable seating uses simple and super-strong loose-tenon joinery.

By Chris Spoerer

I

designed these bar-height chairs with comfort in mind.

They are wide and deep,

with contoured armrests and stretchers to rest your feet. As with the matching table (p. 49), I relied on loose-tenon joinery.

This technique ensures solid construction and streamlines the assembly process: cut the parts, make your mortises, and then piece the chairs together.

Reclaimed cypress is my wood of choice for these chairs.

If you already have a bar or other high-top table, simply modify the length of the legs to fit your existing piece.

Order of Work 1. Make the legs and stretchers.

2. Cut mortises in the legs and stretchers.

3. Fit the back slats, then dry-fit the frame.

4. Make the armrests and cut the armrest mortises.

5. Assemble the chair and install the seat.

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

43

CHAIRS & TABLES

High-Top Patio Chair

Figure 1: Exploded View

2" × 1/2" mortise, 1/2" deep

Back slat 1/2" × 2" × 23-1/4"

Back leg 1-1/2" × 3-1/4" × 46" (See pattern, Figure 2)

Dry-fit armrest to locate mortise.

E

A

Front leg 1-1/2" × 2" × 38"

F

C

Cleat 3/4" × 1" × 22"

B D

Side stretcher 1-1/2" × 2-1/2" × 18"

Seat slat 3/4" × 2-1/2" × 18"

D C Front & rear stretcher 1-1/2" × 2-1/2" × 22-1/4"

NOTE: Use 10mm × 50mm tenons in the stretchers and 8mm × 50mm tenons in the arm rests.

44

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

Arm rest 1-1/2" × 3" × 23"

High-Top Patio Table

CHAIRS & TABLES

High-Top Patio Table Build a matching bar-height table to create a beautiful and durable dining set.

By Chris Spoerer

M

ost outdoor furniture falls into one of two categories: cheap junk that’s lucky to

make it to the following spring; and better-built furnishings that cost as much as a summer cottage. But if you’re a woodworker, you don’t need to settle for poor quality, or pay a fortune to enjoy outdoor furniture that’s beautiful and durable.

The bar-height table I’m building

here is the centerpiece of a patio set that includes chairs (p. 43). I made the entire set from reclaimed cypress, which has good dimensional stability along with excellent resistance to rot and insect damage. Other good “outdoor” woods include cedar, white oak, teak, and ipe, which is sometimes used as outdoor decking.

Without altering the design or joinery details, you can adjust the dimensions of this table to suit available material.

For example, two-by stock can substitute for the 8/4 lumber I used to make the tabletop frame and rails for the base.

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

49

CHAIRS & TABLES

High-Top Patio Table

Figure 1: Exploded View

Loose tenons for the top, through tenons for the base

Section Detail

Wooden outdoor furniture needs

B

strong joinery. That’s why my patio

A

set goes together with loose and through tenon joints, assembled with

because it’s fast, simple, and accurate.

If you’ve been thinking of buying

C E

Titebond II. I used my Festool Domino to make all the loose tenon mortises,

Slat

Leg

Upper rail

Mill slat stock to 3/4" × 3-1/2", and then cut each slat to fit frame.

Use 1/4" spacers to set slat spacing.

Frame piece 1-1/2" × 6-1/4" × 24-9/16"

this tool, here’s your excuse. But if you don’t own one yet, don’t worry.

You can plunge-rout the mortises.

B A

Rail Details The table’s base is made by joining upper and lower rail assemblies together with four identical legs. The mortises and center lap joints are identical in

Tenon 1/4" × 1/2" long, centered 8mm × 50mm Dominos

C

Upper rail 2" × 2-1/2" × 39"

upper and lower rails. The upper rail assembly requires end laps to be cut so that these rails can nest into the tabletop frame.

Tenon 1" × 2" × 2"

Chamfer 3/4"

Through mortise 1" × 2"

#8 × 2" FH wood screw

Leg 2" × 2-1/2" × 40-1/4"

E

Order of Work 1. Make the mitered frame

Tenon 1" × 2" × 2"

for the tabletop.

2. Cut the top slats, then

Lower rail 2" × 2-1/2" × 42"

assemble the top.

3. Shape the top to its final round form.

Leg leveler

D

4. Make the upper and Cut half-laps to join rails.

lower rail assemblies.

5. Make the legs and assemble the table.

50

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

6-3/4" Chamfer edges after assembly.

CHAIRS & TABLES

Octagonal Picnic Table

Octagonal Picnic Table This easy-to-build design creates the ultimate outdoor dining spot for the entire family.

By Bill Sands

F

amily members and friends

diners from intense sunlight. The

will enjoy the good times

chevron-shaped benches attached

around this accommodating

to the cross supports allow for

outdoor project that seats up to

easy-access seating, unlike standard

eight happy diners. There’s nothing

picnic table designs, which force you

tricky about the construction.

to climb over the seats to sit down.

Plugged exterior-grade screws and

56

waterproof glue bond the 2× parts

NOTE: To protect against rot and

together, guaranteeing years of use.

insects, I used western red cedar. Other

A hole at the tabletop’s center allows

outdoor wood choices include redwood,

you to insert an umbrella to shield

cypress, and pressure-treated pine.

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

Octagonal Picnic Table

CHAIRS & TABLES

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

57

BENCHES

Adirondack Glider

Adirondack Glider Rock the day away in your favorite outdoor spot with this American classic.

By Robert J. Settich

T

66

here’s a reason the

glide through a summer evening

Adirondack chair is the

with a companion by your side.

most popular spot to

Because I used poplar, which is

relax in the great outdoors. Its

prone to rot outdoors, I protected

angled back and wide armrests

the wood with two coats of primer

are designed to take the load off

and two coats of exterior paint. For a

your feet while your body relaxes

clear wood look, go with rot-resistant

into the calm of summer. The only

cedar, cypress, or other exterior wood,

problem with an Adirondack chair

and apply a clear UV (ultraviolet)

is that you’re chilling solo and not

resistant finish. Go with exterior

snuggled next to your loved one.

screws and glue to guarantee long-

With this expanded take on the

lasting joints. Use the patterns to

American classic, you can now

help you make the shaped parts.

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

Adirondack Glider

BENCHES

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

67

Easy-Breezy Porch Swing

BENCHES

Easy-Breezy Porch Swing This simple-to-build project will be your go-to spot to sit and watch the world pass by.

By Jim Harrold

D

uring the past two centuries, the country has witnessed porches come and go, and

return again, for reasons of nostalgia and the pure love of sitting outdoors.

And while benches, rockers, and wicker chairs help you relax in the open air, nothing offers more comfort than a porch swing. Indeed, it’s as American as apple pie.

This traditional design, made from

weather-resistant cypress, features a contoured seat and wide armrests for maximum relaxation. The seat support rails are extended beyond the armrests to keep the chains out of “arms” way. The porch swing hardware provides springs that offer a cushiony ride as you glide to and fro.

Err on the side of caution and purchase springs and chains that can bear more weight than you think you’ll use, so there’s no need to

NOTE: Our off-the-rack cypress measured .83" thick (a hair over 1-3/16"). Rather

worry if an unexpected visitor hops

than needlessly feed wood to our planer, we used the stock as is. The extra

on. Be sure to securely attach the

thickness gave the seat and back assembly a little more heft, even though it did

hardware not only to the swing, but

throw off a few of the measurements. If you decide to build this project from a

also the studs in the porch ceiling.

harder wood, such as white oak or mahogany, you can use 3/4"-thick stock.

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

79

BENCHES

Easy-Breezy Porch Swing

Figure 1: Exploded View Half-Lap Detail

2" stainless steel deck screw

3/8" plugs

3-1/2" 48"

B B

3/8" roundover

4-1/2"

4"

Half-lap on inside face

E E B

A A

Half-lap on outside face

B

C C

18o

3/8" spacing

2"

3/8" roundover 2" stainless steel deck screws

4"

18o

D D

B B

FF

1"

2-1/4" quick-link 3/8 × 4" eyebolt

1-1/4" stainless steel deck screws

3/8" nut and washer

H H

3/8" roundover

G G

A A 3/8" hole

3-1/2" 3/8" roundover

66"

Overall dimensions: 66" W × 30-1/4" D × 27-1/4" H

II

3" stainless steel deck screw

1-5/8" R=5" 3-1/2" 2"

Start with the seat/back assemblies 1. Rip a 6’-long board to 4" wide for

seat and back supports (A, B) (half-lap

of the scribed line. Using two pieces

detail, Figure 1). To find the shoulder

of scrap, make a test cut on the ends

line, lay one piece on top of the other,

and check the fit. Continue raising

the seat supports (A) and a 7'-long

so that the mitered end of the top

the blade and retesting the cut until

board to 3-1/2" for the back supports

board is flush with the edge of the

the stock faces are flush with each

(B). Cut each board into three equal

other, and draw on the bottom board.

other and there is no offset between

lengths. (They are intentionally

Rearrange the two boards so that

the two. Now cut the half-laps on

left a little long. You’ll cut them to

the bottom board is on top and mark

the seat (A) and back (B) supports

final length after joining the two

the other shoulder. Set a marking

(Photo A). Clean up the half-lap

together.) Set your table saw’s miter

gauge to one-half the thickness of

rabbets with a sanding block.

gauge to 18° and cut one end of

your stock and scribe a line along

each seat and back support piece.

the edges and ends of both pieces.

4. Apply exterior glue to the mating half-laps, and then clamp

2. Lay out the locations of the half-

3. Outfit your table saw with a 3/4"

the pairs together to make three seat/

lap joints on the angled ends of the

dado set. Adjust the height just shy

back assemblies (A/B). Let cure.

80

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

Build a Bench

BENCHES

Build a Bench A solid, simple bench made from two 2 × 10s offers the perfect place to sit.

By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk

S

ome woodworkers turn up

I’m betting that a few woodworkers

Order of Work

their noses at 2× lumber, but

may reconsider home center stock.

1. Mill the wood.

Despite its simplicity, this seat

2. Build the jigs.

it’s a great choice for beginners

3. Rout the mortises and

and for experienced woodworkers

is surprisingly sturdy. Mortise-and-

who want to enjoy a weekend in

tenon construction and exterior-

the shop. Cypress and cedar are

grade hardware create a base that’s

4. Cut legs to final shape.

nice, but considering that the pine

able to withstand almost anything

5. Dado the rails.

version can be built for much less,

Mother Nature might send its way.

6. Assemble the base.

tenons; assemble the legs.

7. Attach the seat.

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

87

BENCHES

Build a Bench

Figure 1: Exploded View

Seat board 1-1/2" × 9-1/4" × 59"

30° chamfer A

3/4"

1/4" Dado 1-1/2" × 1/2"

Tabletop fastener B

C 1/2" Short rail 1-1/2" × 4-1/2" × 11"

30° D

2-7/8" HeadLOK fastener

Paired parts. Building this bench is an exercise in creating identical pairs: two leg assemblies, two long rails, and two seat boards.

Long rail 1-1/2" × 4-1/2" × 47-1/2"

Tenon 3/4" × 3-3/4" × 1-1/4"

Post 1-1/2" × 4-1/2" × 11-3/4"

E 1"

NOTES: Overall part dimensions include tenons. All tenons are 3/4" × 3-3/4" × 1-1/4"

4-1/2" Foot 1-1/2" × 4-1/2" × 19-1/2"

1/8" UHMW riser

Stainless steel screw #8 × 1-1/4"

One quick hit to your home center, then start building

rough length helps reduce milling,

eliminate the screw holes that might

but keep short pieces together so that

let in moisture or cause rust stains.

This project is designed to

they can be machined safely. Should

make the most of two 2×10s.

your stock come in under the listed

but I suggest varnishing the seat

To maximize yield, I outfitted my

dimensions, it’s no big deal, but center

before starting the leg assemblies.

table saw with a thin-kerf blade.

the mortising jig on your stock.

This way, these boards will be a few

The mortise-and-tenon leg

protective coats ahead of the game

When planing, I stopped a few passes sooner than I normally do and dealt

assemblies are joined with Titebond

with deeper mill marks with a sander

III. The table clips do more than

and hand plane. Cutting parts to

create a cleaner-looking seat; they

88

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

It might seem out of sequence,

when you start to finish the base.

BENCHES

Garden Bench

Garden Bench Outdoor materials and sound joinery make this a bench that will last generations.

By Andy Rae

S

pring is in the air, and it’s time

We chose cypress, because it’s

you can also use a benchtop mortiser

to spend some quality time

inexpensive, readily available, and

or employ a loose-tenon routing jig

outside—sitting down, of

known for its weather resistance.

to bore the mortise half of the joint.

course! To serve this purpose, why

Other insect- and decay-resistant

You can use a jig on both mating parts

not make a great outdoor bench that

woods include redwood and cedar.

of the joint and replace the more

you can “plant” in the garden or on a

For solid joinery, we chose mortise

patio? This classically inspired bench

and tenon. To build your skill set, we’ll

a loose one. As long as your joints

is fun to make, and it’s constructed

show how to mill the mortises with a

fit snugly, nobody—not even your

using a weather-resistant wood.

router and a pair of edge guides, but

bench—will detect the difference.

92

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

time-eating traditional tenon with

BENCHES

Garden Bench

Figure 1: Leg and Side Assembly Back

Side

1 × 2 × 1-1/4" tenon mortise

1 × 2-7/8 × 1-1/4" mortise

A

1 × 2-5/8 × 1-1/4" mortise

13"

1 × 2 × 1-1/4" mortise

C

A 1 × 2-7/8 × 1-1/4"

A A

10

B

13"

D

6-3/4"

16"

Front

B

B

1 × 2 × 1-1/4" tenon

o

9-3/4"

1 × 1-1/2 × 1-1/4" mortise

1 × 2 × 1-1/4" mortise

22-1/4"

13"

13"

6-3/4"

15"

1 × 1-1/4 × 1-1/4" mortise

20"

1 × 1-1/4 × 1-1/4" mortise

A

13"

E E

Side

B

C

Draw out assembly diagram.

Avoid errors with a full-sized side assembly drawing containing pattern measurements and angles.

Apply the back leg template. Use the leg template to lay out the back legs. Align the template with a straight edge of the stock.

Saw the leg. Keep the leg front against the fence. Stop the saw when the blade touches the bottom inside corner.

Start with stock prep 1. Face-glue 6/4 boards to create

Plane the stretchers (E) to 1-3/4"

them to final width and length after

thick. (Note that the stock for the

assembling the bench frame.

stock thick enough to make parts

back legs (B) needs to be 6" wide).

to spread the glue evenly, then

but cut the rest of the parts to the

Make the leg 1. Make a full-sized drawing for the

space clamps to ensure uniform

finished sizes. Leave the arms (C)

side on a piece of 1/4"-thick plywood

pressure over the boards.

and crest rail (I) square for now.

(Figure 1, Photo A). Include all the

A–J (Cut List). Use a foam roller

Leave the back legs (B) over-width,

joinery. The drawing makes it easier

2. Plane the front legs (A), back legs

3. Thickness enough 5/4 stock to

to lay out the joints and measure the

(B), and crest rail (I) to 2-1/2" thick.

make three 7/8"-thick back slats

sloping angle at the bench back.

Continue planing the arms (C), side

(K) and six seat slats (M, N). Finally,

seat rails (D), front seat rail (F), back

thickness 6/4 stock to make ten

2. Make a pattern for the back legs (B)

seat rail (G), center seat rail (H),

1-1/4"-thick back posts (L). Leave

using another piece of 1/4" plywood.

and lower back rail (J) to 2" thick.

these parts oversized for now; trim

Bandsaw or jigsaw the pattern and

Filename: #28 Garden Bench 3

BRULeMoine ILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

2-24

93

GARDEN

Potting Bench

Potting Bench Get ready for planting season with this easy-to-make garden center.

By Ken Burton

Y

ou don’t need a green thumb to appreciate that a potting bench is as much of a necessity

to a gardener as a workbench is to a woodworker. For starters, a potting bench provides a comfortable work surface, enabling gardeners to tend seedlings and repot plants without having to work on their hands and knees. A good bench also keeps supplies, such as potting soil, pots, garden tools, and fertilizers, in one convenient location, so that gardeners can make the most of their green time.

The design shown here does all that in

spades, combining form with function.

In addition to its elegantly-arched aprons, it features a segmented work surface with three removable panels.

Two of the panels are slotted, making cleanup a simple matter of brushing leftover soil into the bins below.

Construction is downright easy: basic butt and miter joints, a few rabbets and dadoes, followed by assembly with screws. You can build the bench in one or two weekends and make gardening easier for many seasons to come. Thermo-wood (poplar) and exterior plywood are used.

102 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

GARDEN

Potting Bench

Figure 1: Exploded View

#8 × 2" screw

K

S

1"

I

O

J

3/4"

T

P Notch back piece to fit. #8 × 1-1/4" screw Q

10-3/4"

Size opening to fit bin.

U R

H

56"

#8 × 1-5/8" screw

4-1/8"

N

G 2-5/8"

B

A

L M 3"

3/4" groove, 1/8" deep

Use tapered batten to lay out elliptical curve.

1" rabbet, 1/4" deep

#8 × 2" FH screw

33-1/4"

3-1/2"

BB AA

E 2-1/2"

1" rabbet, 1/4" deep

F #8 × 2-1/2" screw

D

C

Overall dimensions: 51" W × 23-5/8" D × 59" H

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 103

Garden Arbor

GARDEN

Garden Arbor Elegant design and rock-solid joinery make this welcoming structure the envy of the neighborhood.

By Alan Turner

W

hen spring blooms, many woodworkers turn their attention from the shop

to the garden. This arbor—plus its matching gate on p. 120—takes dead aim at both passions. Handsome but without excess adornment, this Arts & Crafts–inspired project provides an inviting entrance to a thoughtfully landscaped backyard or patio area. And with any of three complementary fence ideas on p. 127, you can enclose a garden or contain Fido’s urge to romp and roam.

As a woodworking project, the

arbor will teach you how to use your router with a few simple jigs to cut precise mortises and perfectly shaped curves. Another surprising detail about this project is the shopfriendly subassemblies. Despite its impressive size, this arbor is designed so that you can build the parts when there’s still snow on the ground and quickly install it outside

NOTE: Both the arbor and gate were made from grade “D and better”

as soon as the weather allows.

western red cedar. Cedar is a natural choice for large outdoor structures because it’s lightweight, easy to work, and resistant to decay. To find suitable material, you may need to go to a specialty lumberyard. Pressuretreated pine, although less expensive and easier to find, isn’t recommended for this project. Treated wood can be brutal on bits and blades.

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 109

GARDEN

Garden Arbor

Start with the arbor sides 1. Begin this project by making the

templates (p. 113). Begin by aligning

19" long upper rungs (B) and two

the appropriate template with

lower rungs (C). Saw off the rounded

mortising templates explained in

your mortise marks and clamping

corners before ripping the rungs

“Shop-Made Mortising Jigs” on p. 113.

it in place. Chuck a 7/8" spade

to final Cut List width. (Cut an

bit into a drill and remove the

extra upper and lower rung to fine-

bulk of the waste (Photo B).

tune the tenon-cutting setups.)

2. Crosscut the posts (A) and stretchers (D) to length plus 4". (Add

TIP: Make your mortises 1/8" deeper

8. Crosscut rungs (B, C) to their final

posts to provide better support for the

than the length of your tenons. The

length by clamping a stopblock to

gate. See the Cut List for dimensions

extra space gives excess glue a place

and the sidebar below.) Now,

to go—instead of oozing out the

thickness-plane these parts to square

sides—when you insert the tenons.

the below-frost length if sinking the

off the rounded corners. Working in 1/16"-deep increments, plane one post

6. Next, chuck an upcut spiral bit

face, rotate the post 90°, and plane the

into your hand-held router. Position

adjacent edge. Plane all four post and

the tool on the jig, turn it on, and

two stretcher faces before lowering

plunge the mortising bit to full

the cutting head. After removing

depth at the corners of the mortise;

the roundovers, the finished

then raise the bit and rout from

dimension should be 3-1/4" square.

side to side in 1/4"-deep increments to clean up the mortise walls and

TIP: Look for stock that’s free of any

bottom (Photo C). After routing the

pith (center of the tree), especially

four mortises for the lower rungs,

when picking corner posts. Pithy

use the upper rung template to

posts tend to twist over time.

rout the remaining 16 mortises.

3. Crosscut the freshly squared

TIP: Filing a small notch in the top and

posts (A) to 83-1/2". Include the

bottom of the jigs’ mortise openings will

frost depth if appropriate.

make the layout lines visible without affecting the accuracy of your jigs.

4. Starting at 83-1/2" down from the top end of posts (A), mark

7. Referring to the Cutting Diagram,

the mortise locations (Figure 1).

rip enough 2x6 stock to make eight

A Batch-mark. Marking out all the mortises at once is faster than using a tape and eliminates the errors that can sneak in when making repetitive measurements.

B Remove the waste. Mark the mortise depth on the bit’s shank to avoid drilling too deeply.

Next, clamp all four posts sideby-side (Photo A). Make sure that the ends are flush before transferring the mortise locations onto the remaining three posts.

Match the Post Length to Your Needs The length of the post (A) given in the Cut List assumes that you’re using a metal post base or post stake for post-footing options (Figure 7).

If attaching the gate, setting the posts in concrete offers the most

5. Mortise the posts (A) using the lower rung and upper rung

stable and permanent option. If you choose this method, buy posts that are long enough to be positioned below the frost line.

110 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

GARDEN

Arbor Gate

Arbor Gate Keep the world at bay with an elegant companion to a graceful arbor.

By Alan Turner

T

his curved-top gate is the

match the arbor’s ribbed bonnet.

to the top of the center stile might

perfect complement to

Like the arbor, the gate is built

appear daunting, but here you’ll

your new arbor. As you

to last from western red cedar.

learn how to make a template and

can see, the top rail, the ends of

The rails attach to the stiles using

use your router for a seamless fit.

the stiles, and even the custom-

solid mortise-and-tenon joinery.

made iron hinges were arched to

Matching the curve of the top rail

120 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

GARDEN

Arbor Gate

Figure 1: Exploded View

Begin with the gate frame 1. Referring to the Cut List, crosscut the stiles (A), bottom rail (B), and center stile (D) to length plus a few inches from 2 × 6 stock (Figure 1). Make the top rail (C)

C

F

G

from 2 × 10 stock. Surface-plane A

all five pieces to 1-3/8" thick. Using

G F

your table saw, rip a square edge

D

E

on all pieces, then rip the stiles F

(A), bottom rail (B), and center

E

stile (D) to 4-1/4" wide. The top rail

A

F

(C) will be sawn to width later.

G

2. Cut the frame to fit the arbor. Referring to the Cut List, crosscut the stiles (A) and center

G

stile (D) to final length. The

B

center stile (D) is left long. It will be trimmed to fit later during assembly. See the note below before cutting the bottom rail (B) and top rail (C) to final length.

NOTE: Measure the width of your arbor opening before cutting the rails to final length. This gate is designed with 7/8" of clearance on the hinge

A

F

E

F

D

side and an equal 7/8" gap on the latch side, for a post-to-post distance of 42". You may need to adjust the length of the rails to fit your arbor.

3. Make a template for the top rail (C) by first chucking a 1/2"-diameter straight bit into your handheld router. Then attach the

D

router’s base to a 54"-long strip of plywood. Plunge the bit through the plywood base. Measure 46-3/4" from the inside edge of the bit and

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 121

GARDEN

Garden Obelisk

Garden Obelisk Give your climbing plants the space to soar.

By Tim Snyder

M

y wife is an avid gardener, and I love woodworking. We’ve been able to create some nice projects

by combining these two passions, including the garden obelisk featured here. These wooden steeples can be attractive punctuation marks in many yards and gardens, creating focal points that integrate architecture with the natural beauty of climbing plants.

We found that the wooden obelisks

we purchased were too easily damaged; their nailed-together joints can’t stand up to New England’s blustery weather.

Why not make a “woodworker’s obelisk” that can provide any yard with a peak experience, while standing strong?

If you like this design, I suggest buying enough lumber for two or more. Even if you only use one in your garden, any friend with a green thumb is sure to want one.

128 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

GARDEN

Garden Obelisk

Posts, rungs & decorative peak

Use the leg and rung lengths given

I ripped all my post and rung stock

their actual measurements

from cedar 2×6 decking boards, then

should be taken directly off

planed this material 1-3/8" square

the pattern you make on the

before cutting parts to finished

work board (see p. 130).

Peak centerpiece 1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 8"

for basic reference (Figure 1);

Decorative cutout

A

Peak wedge 1-3/8" × 4" × 12" B 2-3/4" washer-head screw

length. Cypress and pressure-treated pine are also good outdoor wood

Figure 1: Exploded View

choices. Whichever wood you choose, make sure to select clear stock, since

Cap pieces 1-3/8" × 2-1/4" × 8-1/2"

C 2" finish nail

knots will weaken the structure.

Crosspiece 3/4" × 3/4" × 10" E

Joinery Detail Groove 3/8" W, 1/2" D, 1/4" from corner

J

14-1/2" J

D K

10-3/4"

Rung 1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 10-1/2"

10-1/2" K

80°

F

3/4 × 3/4 × 13-1/2"

L 11"

Order of Work 1. Set up the work board.

2. Groove the post’s

1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 15-3/8"

10-1/2" G

3/4" × 3/4" × 17"

inside edges.

M

11-1/2"

1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 18-1/4"

10-1/2"

3. Cut the rungs to length, then cut tongues on the rung ends.

N

3/4" × 3/4" × 21"

H

4. Glue up the base and

10-1/2" 11-3/4"

trim the post ends.

5. Make and install the peak assembly.

6. Make and install the trellis assemblies.

3/4" × 3/4" × 25"

I

• (2) 1" × 4" × 8' cedar

11"

10"

Lumber List • (4) 2" × 6" × 8' cedar

Post 1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 75-1/2"

1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 22-1/4" O

1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 26-1/8" 1-1/4" washer-head screw

Vertical strip 3/4" × 3/4" × 58-3/4"

80° 80°

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 129

How Good Is Plastic Wood?

WOOD & FINISHING

How Good Is Plastic Wood?

Build your next project with lumber that will never decay, crack, warp, or need finishing.

By Asa Christiana

T

Even though plastic lumber

hree years ago I

lumber will continue to look

resurfaced my deck with

great while real wood will show

is made almost entirely from

composite boards made

signs of damage from moisture,

bottles, bags, and other products

from recycled plastic and wood

mold, sunlight, and insects. And

rescued from the waste stream,

dust. Although I live in the

there’s more good news too:

it’s expensive to manufacture.

rainy Northwest, a giant Petri

You can build almost anything

Those costs are passed on to end-

dish for moss and mold, the

with plastic lumber, using the

users. It’s also important to note

deck still looks as good as the

same power and hand tools

that plastic boards are typically

day I installed it. And the only

you already own. But there

sold in long lengths. This can be

maintenance I’ve done is a yearly

are important considerations

an advantage if you’re building a

scrub with soap and water.

you’ll need to make when

deck, and picking up your material

switching from real wood to

from a local supplier. But if you

using synthetic lumber for other

plastic. I’ll go over some useful

want small orders or shorter

outdoor projects. It took a while,

tips about cutting, shaping,

material shipped to you, it can be

but I tried out the main types

and joining the material.

challenging to find a supplier.

That got me thinking about

of plastic lumber shown here—everything from decking boards skinned with faux wood grain to lightweight PVC trim boards and bright-colored solid plastic stock. All of these varieties offer the advantage of excellent durability under tough outdoor conditions. Plastic

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 135

WOOD & FINISHING

How Good Is Plastic Wood?

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) • Sold in sheets and as 3/4"-thick trim boards. PVC fencing, railing, and decking are also available.

• Trim and sheet stock are available in white only, but these materials can be painted.

• Can be glued using special PVC adhesive.

• More flexible than other types of plastic lumber.

BEST USE: weatherproof trim and cladding

Plastic-capped decking boards • Composite core (recycled plastic and wood dust), with wood-grain cap that protects core from wear, weathering, and mildew.

• Most common dimension is 1" × 5-1/2".

• Many boards come with grooved edges for use with hidden deck fasteners.

• Many wood tones available. Premium decking looks like real wood.

BEST USE: decking and projects that don’t require exposed ends or cut edges

Uncapped composite decking • Made from a blend of recycled high-density polyethylene (HDPE) and wood dust/fibers.

• Most boards have a textured surface to simulate wood grain.

• Boards are available in common dimension lumber sizes, and in different wood tones.

• Surface will show slight weathering with age.

• Has the same composition through and through.

• Slightly stiffer than HDPE plastic lumber.

BEST USE: decking, outdoor railings, and outdoor furniture

High-density polyethylene (HDPE) lumber • Sold mostly for commercial use in outdoor furniture, docks, and boardwalks.

• Available in many colors (with UV blockers added to minimize fading).

• Has the same composition and color through and through.

• Lighter than wood-plastic composites.

• More slippery than other plastic lumber.

136 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

BEST USE: outdoor furniture

Wood vs. Wild

WOOD & FINISHING

Wood vs. Wild Protect your outdoor projects with this handy survival guide.

By Robert J. Settich

N

To help save your outdoor

one of us would ever

blistering heat, and torrential rain.

dream of sending our

And while cruelty to wood won’t

projects from abuse, we developed a

children out into the snow

land you in prison, it will definitely

condensed survival guide covering

without a proper coat, boots, and

peel years away from your project’s

wood and manufactured panels,

mittens. Yet some people callously

life expectancy and serve a death

fasteners, adhesives, and finishes.

shove their woodworking creations

sentence to its good looks.

out the door to face Arctic blasts,

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 139

WOOD & FINISHING

Wood vs. Wild

Western red cedar

Domestic softwoods Domestic softwoods with natural decay resistance include western red cedar, cypress, and redwood.

Shipping costs usually dictate which species is available in your area. All are lightweight and easy to work.

However, realize that these species are particularly soft softwoods and therefore are susceptible to surface damage by a stray hammer blow or collision with

Redwood

brick, concrete, and other unforgiving surfaces.

Cypress

Mahogany Tropical hardwoods Tropical hardwoods such as teak and ipe have high density and natural decay resistance, two factors that recommend them for outdoor furniture. But these woods can be hard to find

Teak

and usually have eye-popping price tags. Genuine mahogany (not lauan) is another decay-resistant wood that is lower in both density and price.

White oak

Ipe

White oak is an excellent domestic hardwood for exterior projects because its closed cell structure inhibits moisture absorption. That’s why it works for everything from whiskey barrels to porch swings.

140 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

White oak

WOOD & FINISHING

Choosing Wood for Outdoor Projects

Choosing Wood for Outdoor Projects When it comes to the great outdoors, not all woods are created equal.

By Udo Schmidt

T

he choice of wood you make

species in North America very

available in lumberyards—even in

for outdoor projects can

suitable for outdoor projects.

home improvement warehouses—

mean years of enjoyment

Finding the right wood depends

while others are not available

or potential disappointment.

on the woodworker’s location and

in commercial trade, but can be

Fortunately, there are several

pocketbook. Some species are readily

obtained from local sawmills.

Choose a resilient wood for outdoor projects.

With proper care and the right choices of wood and finish, outdoor furniture can withstand conditions such as moisture and bugs.

146 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

Choosing Wood for Outdoor Projects

Heartwood & Sapwood: The Difference In a living tree, the heartwood is for support and doesn’t conduct water or store food. In contrast, sapwood contains both living and dead cells and transports water and nutrients from

WOOD & FINISHING

up to 6“ in hickories and maples. After several years of growth, the cells become inactive and increase in extractive content like resins, gums, waxes, oils, polyphenols, and tannins and become heartwood. Heartwood is usually darker in color than sapwood because of its

species, from only 1/2" in black locust to

some species highly resistant to decay.

Heartwood can be even tougher.

The reddish heartwood of eastern red cedar is very decay-resistant.

When buying wood that will be

outdoors wood seldom goes below

exposed end grain after assembly.

exposed to the elements, look for

a moisture content of 12%, except

wood that is decay resistant, insect

in dry desert conditions. It can also

direct sunlight and weather. This

resistant, and weather resistant.

absorb moisture to over 20% (up to the

dramatically reduces maintenance.

Approximately 10% of North

species’ fiber saturation point) during

For instance, an Adirondack chair

American lumber production is

a period of humid or wet conditions. In

located under a covered porch might

used to replace damaged wood on

other words, moisture content usually

need only a coat of finish every two

structures or other element-exposed

fluctuates more in outdoor wood than

years. But if the chair is exposed

wooden objects. Regardless of the

indoor wood. This means that outdoor

to the elements, it needs two coats

species, the sapwood part of any wood

wood swells and shrinks in greater

a year to keep it looking new.

has no natural resistance to decay.

dimensions than wood used indoors.

The first thing to do is to understand

Using kiln-dried wood for outdoor

ground (e.g., fence posts). Instead,

the difference between heartwood

projects is not necessary; however,

build a concrete foundation and

and sapwood (see sidebar above).

lumber in home improvement stores

paint the buried part in heavy roof

is sometimes sold as kiln-dried.

tar or creosote. Concrete traps

to consider is the growth ring

Most likely this wood is still well

moisture around wood much longer

arrangement. A good example is

above its fiber saturation point and

because it cannot drain naturally.

western red cedar. If the growth rings

should be air-dried before using.

the roots to the leaves. The thickness of the sapwood varies greatly among

Another important aspect

are more than 1/8" apart, this wood is

higher level of extractives, which also makes wood from the heartwood of

Regardless of the wood you choose,

Keep your project out of

Don’t bury bare wood in the

Keep water and snow away from your project. Don’t let a

considered only moderately resistant

there are a few points to consider if

chair sit in a puddle of water or

to decay. With decay-resistant species,

you want to eliminate or retard decay.

let snow lay on play equipment.

the closer the growth rings, the

Apply several coats of finish to

Even though most of the species

the end grain of the wood before

mentioned here are highly resistant

assembling the project. The end

to decay, that doesn’t mean that

indoor or outdoor projects is the

grain is more susceptible to moisture

they are also resistant to insects.

moisture content to which the wood

absorption and will check and split

For instance, teak is resistant to

will equalize. Indoors, wood’s moisture

long before the other parts of the

termites, but not to the marine borer.

content fluctuates between 6% in

wood. If this is not possible, apply

If you anticipate insect damage to

winter and 12% in summer. However,

several extra coats of finish on all

your project, a product called Bug

more decay-resistant the wood.

The main difference in wooden

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 147

Outdoor Finishes

WOOD & FINISHING

Outdoor Finishes Choose the right finish to dress your outdoor woodwork for success.

By Derek Richmond

W

hen it rains, it pours. So

While no product will completely

finishes that offer better protection

you put on a raincoat—

protect your projects from the rain,

at the beginning can also be more

or go inside. And

snow, and sun, choosing the right

difficult to maintain and refinish.

And maintaining an outdoor

when the snows come, you bundle

finish and applying it the right way is

up. Sunny? A pair of sunglasses

a critical opening gambit in the uphill

finish may be necessary, but it doesn’t

and maybe some SPF lotion. But

battle of keeping your woodwork

have to be evil. The trick is picking

your outdoor furniture and other

lasting long and looking beautiful.

the right finish, then knowing how

woodwork don’t have such luxuries.

After all, the finish has to balance

and—just as importantly—how often

Those pieces rely on you to store

protection from the elements with

to maintain that finish to protect

them inside or undercover, and

an element of simplicity in both

your projects and keep your wood

when that’s not practical, to apply

application and renewal. As you’ll

looking good season after season.

and maintain a protective finish.

see in the following pages, those

BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 149

WOOD & FINISHING

Outdoor Finishes

Oil-based varnishes

cracking or peeling from seasonal

wise to thin the initial coat with

Varnish has come to be a catch-all

wood movement. Frequently, these

mineral spirits (up to 50% with some

term for any number of film-forming

finishes also contain UV blockers

products) to promote good adhesion.

finishes. Most oil-based “varnishes”

that inhibit the sun’s ultraviolet rays

consist of a drying oil (usually tung

from degrading the wood beneath.

or linseed), a resin (typically alkyd

The trade-off is that exterior

or polyurethane) and a solvent

varnishes aren’t as hard or durable

(mineral spirits). Varying the type

as interior formulations. Depending

and ratio of those components

on the weather, a well-applied

affects characteristics of the

exterior varnish will last 2–3 years

protective layer formed by the film.

before it begins to look chalky. When

Exterior oil-based varnishes—some

it does, sand the surface and apply a

manufacturers dub them “spar”

fresh coat. Do this before the finish

from the days of tall-masted ships—

develops cracks; otherwise you may

contain a greater percentage of oils

have to sand down to bare wood.

than their interior counterparts.

Oil-based varnishes, which impart

This formulation means exterior

an amber hue to the wood, can be

varnish remains more flexible when

applied by brush or spray. When

cured, lessening the likelihood of it

applying to bare wood, it’s often

Water-based varnishes

to add gloss and durability,

These film-forming finishes are also

but be sure to check for

resin-based (alkyd, urethane, and/or

compatibility first. To apply a

acrylic) but use water as their solvent,

water-based finish, first raise

making them environmentally

the wood grain with distilled

friendlier and easier to clean up. Like

water and then lightly sand

their oil-based cousins, the outdoor

away the raised fibers before

formulations form a weather- and

brushing or spraying on 3–4

UV-resistant film that remains

thin coats. Allow each coat to

flexible. Although milky-white as a

dry thoroughly, then sand and

liquid, they dry clear with no amber

recoat. Clean up with water.

Exterior varnish for multi-layered protection. For maximum protection, some manufacturers recommend applying 7–8 coats of their exterior varnishes. Thin as directed and allow to dry before scuff-sanding between coats. Clean up with mineral spirits.

cast. This tends to flatten the color and grain rather than enhance it the way an oil-based varnish does.

Staining first can help, as can using amber-colored additives made for the purpose. Water-based varnishes can be applied over other non-oilbased finishes such as milk paint

150 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

Water-based varnish gives toughness on top. A water-based varnish adds protection and gloss to bare wood and painted surfaces. Here it’s being sprayed on a white oak ladder-ball game.

Restoring Outdoor Projects

WOOD & FINISHING

Restoring Outdoor Projects Add years to the life of your lawn and patio furniture.

By Marlen Kemmet

Y

ear after year, outdoor

functional piece in need of a little

furniture pieces take a brutal

TLC. Although the wood appeared

Common fixes for failing furniture

beating from Mother Nature

badly weathered, a little sanding

After assessing your furniture

in the form of intense sunlight,

and scraping on the bottom side of

piece and deciding that it’s worth

temperature extremes, moisture,

a seat slat revealed sound lumber.

saving, develop an action plan.

windblown dirt and pollen, and

Next, check the joints for further

insects. To wage the good fight and

rot, looseness, and hardware

extend the life of these cherished

issues that undermine the

pieces, follow along as I take you

project’s structural integrity.

step by step through the rehab of an

Are replacement parts or new

Adirondack chair, solving common

hardware in order? With seating

problems that afflict most outdoor

of any kind, these are critical for

projects, and extending its useful life.

safety. Is the finish flaking or

Use these strategies to remedy a variety of problems.

otherwise compromised? If what

Can this project be saved?

you are facing is a lost cause,

Over time, all wood projects reach

you may find it cheaper and

the point of no return. But, in the

far more time-saving to simply

case of this Adirondack chair, it was

build a sturdier replacement.

worth the time and effort for me to restore this weathered old friend.

How can you tell if an outdoor project has passed its prime?

For starters, check for severe wood rot, warping, or large checks or cracks in individual parts. Looks can be deceiving. At first blush, the Adirondack chair looked destined for the landfill. But underneath the grit, lichen, and grime was a perfectly

Before BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 153

WOOD & FINISHING

Restoring Outdoor Projects

Clean the piece Problem Lichen, mold, weathering, and encrusted dirt have attacked the project, detracting

Power wash. For badly damaged pieces, a powerwasher and a cleaning solution provide the first step.

from its appearance and leading to decay.

Solution Depending upon the severity of the degradation you have two choices. For projects like the chair, I recommend pressure-washing the entire piece at a low setting using a wide-nozzle tip on the wand (Photo A). Rinse the entire piece first. Then, power-wash it with

A

a commercial solution to clean and brighten the wood. Or, save a few bucks by mixing your own solution. I used one quart of household bleach, onethird cup of powdered laundry soap, and three quarts of water. A raincoat, safety glasses, and gloves come in

Scrub. A stiffbristled brush and lots of elbow grease clean entrenched grime at little cost.

handy for protection against splatter.

If you don’t have access to a power washer, spray the piece down with a garden hose and scrub the grime off (Photo B). Avoid a wire brush, as the hard, stiff bristles may cause deep scratches in the wood, which will have to be sanded.

B

Power-Washing Pointers When power-washing outdoor furniture,

damage the wood, much like sandblasting.

start with the lowest setting, hold the nozzle

Power-washer spray tips come in different

end of the wand about 18" away to start,

spray patterns, with the range spanning

and move closer if necessary. Too high of a

from 0° to 40°. The wider the angle, the more

pressure setting or a tip held too close can

surface area covered, but with less impact.

154 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE

House & Home / Woodworking

Woodworking projects that will transform your outdoor space.

S

pend more time enjoying your patio, porch, and backyard with more than a dozen projects,

including a classic Adirondack, sturdy and stylish tables, comfortable benches, and much more. With detailed plans, helpful photos, and step-by-step instructions, Building Outdoor Furniture delivers projects for every skill level and need. Also included is expert advice on selecting the right materials and finishes to ensure your outdoor projects withstand the test of time. Whether you’re a hands-on homeowner or a woodworking enthusiast, Building Outdoor Furniture is the ideal book for anyone who wants to build affordable, long-lasting pieces to transform their outdoor living space.

ISBN 978-1-950-934-82-9 $27.95 US