C California Style

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raf simons tends to Christian dior’s Haute Couture

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In bakersfield, the Most lavish dressing Quarters You’ve ever seen

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CALIFORNIA STYLE

zoe saldana From Star Trek Heroine to nina simone, she’ll Put a spell on You

Cover

a bejeWeled FantasY CoMes to lIFe at daWnrIdge estate, 1970s art-to-Wear and all oF sPrIng’s darIng looks

Plus

jewelry & accessories issue

tHe best

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May 2013

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C may 2013

features

106 Good Graces From galactic voyages to ’50s jazz bars, actress Zoe Saldana keeps her cool on Hollywood’s wild ride.

112 Grand Gestures Layers of gilded brocade and opulent beadwork at the Dawnridge estate prove more is more this season.

122 hidden Gem Behind the massive wooden gates to Liv Ballard’s Beverly Hills retreat is a home as beguiling as its creative tenants.

130 rites of sprinG Raf Simons fashions Christian Dior’s Haute Couture presentation into a garden of earthly delights.

134 native sons

138 vanity fair

hidden Gem, page 122.

C 16 may 2013

Dripping in crystals, swathed in hand-painted wallpaper and accented liberally with gold leaf, a Philip Nimmo designed “closet retreat” is one Bakersfield doyenne’s dream come true.

coral von zumwalt

Both vintage and new, alex & Lee’s sought-after talismans are wrapped in California spirit.

LVMH (Vuitton)

ZOE SALDANA in Salvatore Ferragamo dress, De Beers earrings, Harry Winston ring, Page 106.

C may 2013

22 FOuNDEr’S LEttEr

Olympia’s Hollywood tribute.

hunt. Napa Valley update: move

making dreams come true.

Tommy Hilfiger’s art-filled surf

over Coachella, meet Bottlerock.

shack. Kate Spade’s SoCal outpost.

Pack these tarmac-ready bags.

67 C BEAuty

101 C CuLturE

all-natural skincare launches in

Photographer Catherine Opie

31 C WHAt’S HOt

L.a. and San Francisco. Spring’s

shares her one-of-a-kind portfolio.

a look at new and exciting

sought-after scents. Tracy

people, places and products

anderson arrives in Brentwood

around the state: Creative

(just in time for bikini season).

24 C PEOPLE Who’s who behind the scenes of C.

couples making music, jewelry and opening up shop. maggie

75 C HOmE

Kayne’s contemporary collective.

Three stylish designers accessorize

The coolest finds for Ca kids.

with panache. Plus, Hermès is on track with its latest dinner service.

42 rEPOrtS FrOm tHE SOCiAL FrONt

85 C tHE mENu

From a-list galas to chic red

The zenith of Japanese cuisine.

carpets, partygoing heats up.

mother’s Day brunch tips. The mill, making toast S.F.’s favorite treat.

49 C FASHiON Serpentine charms. Black and

95 C trAvEL

white, in the mix. Charlotte

mila Kunis goes on a treasure

C 18 may 2013

145 SHOPPiNg guiDE 146 C CALiFOrNiA all eyes on Bette Davis.

ON Our COVer ZOE SALDANA photographed by diego uchitel in a Bottega Veneta dress and de Beers earrings, and bracelet. see shopping guide for more details, page 145. styled by samantha traina. hair mara roszak for moroccanoil

at starworksartists.com. makeup amy oresman for neutrogena cosmetics.

diego uchitel. see shopping guide for more details, page 145

departments

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C JENNiFER HALE

Founder + editorial director

LESLEY CAMPoY president + publisher JENNY MuRRAY editor

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CRiSTA vAGHi

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special projects director sho & company, inc.

art production assistant

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saN FraNcisco editor-at-large

Diane Dorrans Saeks

desigN editor-at-large

circulatioN coNsultaNts/circulatioN specialists, iNc. special projects coNtributors coNtributiNg editors

Andrea Stanford

coNtributiNg editor-at-large

Kendall Conrad

Greg Wolfe, Russell Marth

Stephanie Steinman, Alisa Wolfson

Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith,

Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson coNtributiNg writers coNtributiNg photographers iNterNs

Cat Doran, Melissa Goldstein, Marshall Heyman, Nora Zelevansky

David Cameron, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Lisa Romerein, Williams + Hirakawa

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founder’s letter

w

ith this being our Jewelry and Accessories issue, our stories are full of gilded glamour. Reading pages filled with beautiful baubles is always fun, but every once in a while, a feature can touch you on a more

emotional level. In this case, it is the backstory to our exquisite cover subject, Zoe Saldana, a celebrated and accomplished actor.

I got a call from a dear friend, Thomas Rollerson, founder of the Dream

Foundation (a national organization based in Santa Barbara that grants

Sonya, with Zoe Saldana.

a wish to adults with life-threatening illnesses—dreamfoundation.org).

Thom told me that he had a dream recipient named Sonya who has been battling cancer for the past four years. She had just turned 18 and always We immediately went into action. Our upcoming cover shoot with Zoe Saldana was a few days away, and we invited Sonya and her mother to Los Angeles to watch the shoot. Even better, we thought: Can we let Sonya be a model for a day?

We asked our very creative (and generous) team of hair, makeup, and fashion stylists, the crew and famed photographer Diego Uchitel, if they were game to grant this wish. They were very enthusiastic! When Sonya arrived to the set, she was beyond surprised to realize SHE was going to experience the red carpet treatment, too. With the best team in the business glamming her up, she was ready for the clothes! Her fashion instincts kicked in and she chose two Monique Lhuillier dresses for her portraits. Polished in Harry Winston jewels, Sonya was a vision. She could have been going to the Academy Awards.

Watching Sonya in front of the camera was a moment I will never forget: This beautiful girl, glowing, radiant in a dream realized, was priceless. Isn’t that what life is all about? Living life to the fullest…enjoying every moment. A life well-lived—and the smile to go with it—is the best accessory of all!

Jennifer Hale Founder & Editorial Director

We’d love to hear from you Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.

C 22 may 2013

SONYA (2): DIEGO UCHITEL. JENNIFER HALE: AZABRA PHOTOGRAPHY. SONYA wEARS MONIqUE LHUILLIER DRESSES AND HARRY wINSTON EARRINGS, ZOE wEARS VALENTINO DRESS AND DE BEERS JEwELRY. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 145

dreamt of being a model…could C Magazine help?

Bally

C

people who’s who behind the scenes of this month’s issue, plus their favorite california places

Natalia Bonifacci

Diego Uchitel

of a story that would end:

with Sonya’s joy, that made for an uplifting

“Zoe [Saldana] had such a playful, relaxed,

“I felt like I was the heroine

down-to-earth vibe on the set. Coupled shoot,” says Buenos Aires-bred photographer

‘and she lived madly ever

Diego Uchitel (“Good Graces,” p.106), who

after,’” says Italian-born

moved to L.A. to attend UCLA film school.

fashion model Natalia

C SPOTS • Gjelina restaurant, the fresh

Bonifacci, featured in

market food is impeccable • Cycling on PCH

“Grand Gestures” (p.112).

The Los Feliz resident recently

• Fahey/Klein Gallery in West Hollywood

wrapped a series of short films starring alongside James Franco. C SPOTS • Point Dume, one of my favorite places in the world • Los Feliz Farmers’ Market • Beverly Hills Hotel

Hutton Wilkinson “If it’s not fabulous, it’s meaningless—

interiors and jewelry designer, and Dawnridge owner Hutton Wilkinson (“Grand Gestures,” p.112). With an interiors client list including Alida Davison Rockefeller, Saudi Arabian Princess Tarfa Bin Abdul Aziz, Mr. and Mrs. Norton Simon and Herb Alpert, Wilkinson’s jewelry following includes Raquel Welch, Sharon Stone and Reese Witherspoon.

C SPOTS • La Purisima Mission in Lompoc 5 • Union Station • Lucky Baldwin’s Queen

JC Molina “What left an impression on

me from the shoot was how both Diego Uchitel and Zoe Saldana made Sonya feel really special,” says set designer, decorator and prop stylist JC Molina of (“Good Graces,” p.106). Born in Bogotá, Colombia, and raised in L.A., Molina has worked around the globe with Banana Republic, Tag Heuer, Equinox, Karl Lagerfeld and GQ. C SPOTS • I love the fresh fruits and veggies at Ivar Market in Hollywood • Reel Inn in Malibu, great food and a casual atmosphere • Stella Mare’s in Santa Barbara

Anne Cottage in Arcadia

Mara Roszak

“I absolutely loved this shoot. The feel was very summer, whimsical and sexy. Taking this into account, I wanted to keep Zoe’s hair very loose, feminine and effortless,” says Mara Roszak (“Good Graces,” p.106). The hair stylist enrolled in beauty school at the age of 16. C SPOTS • Carneros Inn, for a weekend getaway • Silverlake—I’m usually at Intelligentsia • Dream Collective in Silverlake for beautiful clothing, jewelry and housewares

C 24 may 2013

NATALIA BONIFACCI: EmmANuELE DELrIO. mArA rOSZAK: JAKE rOSENBErg

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C

people who’s who behind the scenes of this month’s issue, plus their favorite california places

Alek Parker

“I was able to find nooks where the opposing canyon wall would naturally bounce light onto Chelsea and Jon, with a drastic shadowed backdrop. The day was perfect for running around the desert using natural elements to light each scene,” says Alek Parker (here, in Macchu Pichu) of shooting badbad in Palm Springs for this month’s C What’s Hot (“Sweet Emotion,” p.31). C SPOTS • Lower Trestles in San Clemente, one of my many favorite surf breaks in California • Painted Canyon in Palm Springs, to get lost with a camera • Gjelina restaurant in Venice, for the most amazing seasonal, organic, local, farm-fresh food I have ever encountered

Genevieve Bahrenburg

“It was delightful to be privy to some of the secrets that inspired romantic-modernist Raf Simons to grow the enchanted garden that is his Spring 2013 Couture collection,” says writer Genevieve Bahrenburg (“Rites of Spring,” p.130). She’s currently authoring and co-producing photographer Claiborne Swanson Frank’s second book, Young Hollywood (Assouline 2014).

C SPOTS • Beverly Hills Hotel pool • Blum & Poe gallery—I love the founders as much as their artists • Sugarfish, Kazumi Nozawa’s high art is rivaled only by Jiro Ono in Tokyo

Lee Brooks & Greg Franke “We’ve stayed true to our vision of one-of-a-kind

studio creations. We’re jazzed to be discovered anew,”

Jessica Sample

says Greg Franke of the re-emergence of Alex & Lee jewelry (“Native Sons,” p.134). The Sea Ranch partners

“I was thrilled to shoot Catherine

are fresh off a retrospective at Cavalier S.F. and have

Opie because I’m a big fan of

a home collection in the works. C SPOTS • The ocean

her work. I’m a bigger fan now

Tide Pools near our Sea Ranch home, where the abundance

after getting sneak peeks on

and variety of life is truly inspiring • CreAsian Bistro in

her upcoming Elizabeth Taylor

San Leandro • Bone Room in Berkeley, for organic objects

project and hearing how

such as bones and fossils

the meaning behind it,” says lensman Jessica Sample

Coral von Zumwalt

(“Turning Focus,” p.101). She

“Considering her gorgeous jewelry [line], it makes perfect sense that

was recently selected as one

Liv’s home would be beautiful, timeless, thoughtful and easy to live

of PDN’s 30 New and Emerging

in,” says photographer Coral von Zumwalt (“Hidden Gem,” p.122).

Photographers to Watch for 2013. C SPOTS • Colony Palms,

The California native regularly shoots for O The Oprah Magazine, Sunset Magazine and Every Day with Rachael Ray Magazine.

for poolside dinner • Esalen

Next, she’ll participate in the Lucie Foundation and MOPLA’s group Instagram show.

in Big Sur • Marshall Store

C SPOTS • Amtrak Surfliner, sitting on the right side heading south with a Bloody Mary in

in Point Reyes, for the oysters

C 28 may 2013

hand • Catalina Island camping • Rutt’s Hawaiian Cafe, the best Hawaiian bread French toast

Genevieve BahrenBurG: Gilles Bensimon

eloquently she explains

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C what’s hot Sweet Emotion

A rock prodigy and her actor beau find perfect harmony

WH (Opener)

ALEK PARKER

Jon Foster and Chelsea Tyler in Palm Springs.

I

n the summer of 2011, Jon Foster and Chelsea Tyler met at a party in Brooklyn, through their mutual friend Zöe Kravitz.

“When we first started dating, we would say, ‘I miss you bad bad’ or ‘I need you bad bad,’” Tyler remembers. The phrase stuck and is now the moniker of their band. An accomplished actor (Tenderness, “Accidentally on Purpose”), Foster, 28, plays drums, piano, guitar and bass. Tyler, 24, the third daughter of rock legend Steven Tyler, is equally blessed as a vocalist. In their home near Venice Beach, the couple turned a closet into a studio and recorded their June debut album. A summerlong tour (with shows scheduled at several Lucky Strike venues) kicked off last month at the Cosmopolitan in Vegas. “I grew up on the road with Aerosmith, so in that way [music] was ingrained in me.

I would say I learned to sing more from my obsession with Lauryn Hill,” says Tyler. Defining badbad’s jazzy, blues electronic sound (one single is a cover of Nina Simone’s “Sinnerman”), “It’s music that makes you dance, evokes emotion and is cathartic.” •

WRITTEN AND EDITED BY KELSEY McKINNON MAY 2013

C 31

what’s hot SANTA BARBARA

Living Large

S

et inside a quaint, white-shingled Santa Barbara cottage, Adesso (meaning a designer’s well-curated collection from journeys near and far) is a miniature haven of jewelry, gifts and home decor items. A team of craftspeople help founder, chief visionary officer and cancer-survivor Samantha Goldstone make each piece by hand at the coastal atelier. A portion of proceeds are donated to healthrelated charities. 1209 de la Vina St., S.B., 805-966-2707; adessoshop.com.

Atelier 688 rope light, $475.

Bixby bangle, $75.

C 32 MAY 2013

Collector’s Corner Among Wear LACMA’s spring offerings is a wood fragrance diffuser by L.A.-based Haley Alexander van Oosten of L’Oeil Du Vert, a sculptural form inspired by Antonio Montauti’s bronze relief The Triumph of Neptune and Europa. The Director’s Circle has also tapped designers Maryam and Marjan Malakpour of NewbarK and designer Juan Carlos Obando. thelacmastore.org.

L’Oeil Du Vert diffuser, $2,200, and bronze bottle, $1,200.

TOKENS OF AFFECTION From the humble confines of their East L.A. studio, designers Dwyer Kilcollin and Yves Spinelli craft ultra-chic jewelry for the country’s most discerning boutiques (Maxfield and A’maree’s among them). “Our aesthetic emerges from the language of minimalism, although our eagerness to incorporate a bold patterned silk or a flurry of pavé diamonds constantly challenges that categorization,” says Kilcollin of the dual impulses at play in their eponymous line, which launched in 2010. spinellikilcollin.com.

LOS ANGELES

Lily Ashwell Shirley dress, $295.

LEFT Spinelli Kilcollin Rimbaud ring, $960.

ABOVE Dwyer Kilcollin and Yves Spinelli.

NEW AGAIN “I source vintage basecloths to print onto because I prefer the hand-feel of old-school silks and rayons,” says up-and-coming designer Lily Ashwell.. The native Angeleno studied at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design before launching her first collection last year (sold at her mother Rachel Ashwell’s Shabby Chic). lilyashwell.com.

WRITTEN BY EVELYN CROWLEY, KELSEY McKINNON AND ALISA WOLFSON. ADESSO ATELIER (2): CRISTI SILVA. DIFFUSER: MOR WEIZMAN

Samantha Goldstone

357 NORTH RODEO DRIVE WESTFIELD TOPANGA SOUTH COAST PLAZA 233 GEARY STREET SANTANA ROW SHOP FERRAGAMO.COM

Dior (Watch)

what’s hot Simmons & Burke, Plant Collection Palette #2, 2012.

BEST BUDS The talk of Art Basel Miami and the Armory, L.A.-based artistic duo Simmons & Burke (Case Simmons and Andrew Burke) will now show dense, botanical digital collages at Michael Kohn gallery.

Opens May 10; kohngallery.com.

Actress Ever Carradine at her home in L.A. BELOW Carradine’s Balenciaga shoes for Vaunte.

Space Invaders

Leah Park and Christian Leone (both founding vice presidents of Gilt Groupe) launched membersonly online consignment shop Vaunte last November. The high fashion e-commerce site visits tastemakers at home and offers up items from their wardrobes. Of the concept, Park, a Pasadena native, says, “I’ve been shopping in my sister’s closet forever now, and she literally charges for the items I want.” This month, peruse the hangers of California girls Jessica Joffe, Clare Vivier and Ever Carradine for must-have wears. vaunte.com.

STACK THE DECK Want to try a surefire spring trend?

Find a delicate gold band topped with a shiny gemstone or seashell.

Slip one on each finger or pile them on for extra effect.

Bulgari, price upon request, bulgari.com.

Meredith Marks, $995, Roseark.

David Yurman, $950, davidyurman.com.

LOS ANGELES

INSIDE JOB

Fireplace surround by Adrian Pearsall for Craft Associates, $7,250.

Interior designer Kristan Cunningham (of HGTV fame) and her husband Scott Jarrell moved cross-country in 1998—collecting treasures from estate sales and auctions along the way. After settling into Downtown L.A.’s Arts District and continuing to amass furniture, paintings and knickknacks, they recently opened Hammer and Spear in a nearby converted factory. In addition to rare vintage items from Hans Olsen, Glenn of California and Chromcraft, find new pieces like Humble Ceramics, Archer room sprays and Prospector Co. products. 255 S. Santa Fe Ave., #101, L.A., 213-928-0997; hammerandspear.com.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY AND KELSEY McKINNON. HAMMER AND SPEAR: ALEN LIN

Jacquie Aiche, $315, jacquieaiche. com.

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Salvatore Ferragamo

Pink gold, diamonds and ceramic.

Automatic movement.

40-hour power reserve.

what’s hot kids FROM LEFT

Flamingo No.2, $25-$1,950; Baby Fox Close-Up, $25-$3,500; Baby Monkey No.2, $25-$950.

Animal House

Millbrook iron crib, $849.

Tiny Furniture

E

xpecting? Restoration Hardware Baby & Child’s highly trafficked registry service makes the arrival of your little one that much easier. Find products to complement any nursery, bedroom, play area, and bathroom, from fine furnishings and crystal chandeliers, to luxury crib bedding, artwork—even clothing. 1219 Third St., S.M., 424-280-7140; 1816 Redwood Hwy., Corte Madera, 415-927-2659; rhbabyandchild.com.

9

SITES TO KNOW

KIDDIE POOL This summer, look for a debut collection of swimwear from Stella McCartney Kids. The playful styles include polka-dot bikinis, Hawaiian-print trunks and sailor-striped bottoms.

A happy-face beach towel also doubles as a backpack. stella mccartney. com.

Jasmine swimsuit with ruffle, $80.

LADYSANDGENTS.COM Jenni Kayne and Estee Stanley’s

street-style scrapbook of the neighborhood’s coolest tykes. • WUNWAY.COM This retail site founded by three moms offers catwalk casual for ages 1-8…and a few things for grown-ups. • MELIJOE.COM A virtual Rodeo Drive for tots with designer trends from Versace. • WENDYBELLISSIMO.COM The queen of nursery Missoni, Monnalisa, Tommy Hilfiger and Young Versace design recently launched a darling clothing line for wee ones. • FABKIDS.COM The subscriptionbased site from Andy Moss and Christina Applegate delivers an outfit each month for girls ages 2-12. • MACAROONORIGINAL.COM A former magazine editor turned boutique owner turned mother market. • KIMMELKIDS.COM What began as a line of stencils has of two curates the market morphed into a wide range of shoppable creative tools.

• WEELICIOUS.COM Roasted ginger-apple puree, anyone? tips.

Find recipes for first bites and school lunch packing tips • SISMAGAZINE.WORDPRESS.COM Santa Barbara-based sisters Luisa and Fernanda Cameron chronicle their sunfilled adventures.

FROM LEFT A

Melijoe ensemble.

Wagon No. 2 from L.A.’s Welcome Companion. RIGHT Luisa and Fernanda Cameron of SiS blog.

WRITTEN BY JANUARY JONES, KELSEY McKINNON AND ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD. THE ANIMAL PRINT SHOP PHOTOS: SHARON MONTROSE

These aren’t illustrations; they are live creatures photographed

by L.A.-based fine artist Sharon Montrose. The Animal Print Shop offers all manner of zoological species—pouched and slithering, winged and hoofed—in wee sizes to a 40x52” wall-covering of a baby fox. theanimalprintshop.com.

Henri Bendel

what’s hot one to watch

CULTURE CLUB

At Maggie Kayne’s new James Turrelldesigned gallery, the future is now

A

RODEN CRATER

FROM TOP RIGHT François Morellet, neonly 2012. Kayne with Triple X neonly, Garby and Gemma. Liza Ryan, Bloom #1, 2012. Ken Price, Wide Load Load, 2004.

C 00 MAY 2013

In 1979, Santa Monica-based artist James Turrell acquired the Roden Crater, a natural volcanic cavity just outside of Flagstaff, Arizona. Since then, he has continued to transform the space into a naked-eye observatory, designed to view celestial phenomena.

Kayne Griffin Corcoran’s inaugural exhibition (to coincide with LACMA’s retrospective, opening May 26) is “James Turrell: Sooner Than Later, Roden Crater,” featuring drawings, photographs and models as well as notes, tools and architectural plans to chart the evolution of Turrell’s vision. May 25-Jul. 20.

ABOVE

James Turrell, Roden Crater, 1992. James Turrell, Roden Crater=alignments as of 9/91, 1991.

WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON. PORTRAIT: ANNABEL MEHRAN. ARTWORK (4) KAYNE GRIFFIN CORCORAN. TRIPLE X NEONLY: HEATHER RASMUSSEN

t just 28 years old, it’s easy to lump Maggie Kayne in with the new generation of well-off, well-connected, good-looking young gallerists popping up in New York and L.A. While all of those things, Kayne, who has worked with LACMA and the Hammer, sets herself apart by staying ahead of the curve.

On her collecting philosophy, she explains, “I am interested in artists whose work is less tied to the moment than emblematic of the future.”

To that end, in 2011, she opened Kayne Griffin Corcoran gallery in Santa Monica, aligning herself with art-world veterans Bill Corcoran, 45, and James Griffin, 68, after working with them on a James Turrell commission for her parents (Richard and Suzanne Kayne). In addition to introducing many new talents to L.A., the gallery represents a stable of contemporary legends (Ed Ruscha, Yves Klein, David Lynch) and is less known for glitzy show openings than for recruiting esteemed guest curators like The Palais de Tokyo’s Marc-Olivier Wahler.

This month, Kayne closes the gallery’s westside location for a brand-new, 15,000 square-foot build-out on La Brea Avenue, the vision of L.A. firm Standard and Turrell himself—complete with a permanent Skyspace installed by the artist. “He designed the lighting, skylights and coffered ceiling in the galleries. The Skyspace will be in our conference room and opens with a retractable roof.

Additionally, he designed the courtyard to be an oasis from the busy street.” A Light and Space masterwork for the future. 201 S. La Brea Ave., L.A.; kaynegriffincorcoran.com. •

Stark Home

c girl

SASHA SPIELBERG 22 ✹ MUSICIAN ✹ WEST HOLLYWOOD

Sasha Spielberg and her older brother Theo have been collaborating since their days on the playground. Now, the pedigreed siblings make up the indie-pop band Wardell. With Sasha on vocals and Theo on guitar, the duo released their debut EP “Brother/Sister” earlier this year and have performed at SXSW, Hotel Café and the Troubadour. INSPIRATION Brenda Lee. I am quite petite and so was she—but her voice made her twice as tall! PERSONAL STYLE Sometimes I’ll wear all black with funky shoes, and other times I’ll go for Natalie Wood in Splendor in the Grass.

ON YOUR iPOD Kendrick Lamar and the Allah-Las. FASHION SPLURGE Jenny Reyes has a line called Geronimo, and you best believe I cleaned that line right out.

FAVORITE SONG Right now, it’s “Who Knows Where the Time Goes” by Fairport Convention. LIVE MUSIC Jon Brion at Largo. HIDDEN TALENT I can talk with my mouth closed. DREAM JOB Getting paid to sleep. DINING OUT Gjelina, Cafe Stella and Sushi Kimagure Ike in Pasadena. MY CALIFORNIA A car that acts as a closet.

EDITED BY KENDALL CONRAD

C 40 MAY 2013

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CAMERON

Valentino blouse, $1,390, slip, $1,990, and skirt, $5,990.

FASHION EDITOR: ANNINA MISLIN. HAIR: ERIC SEBBAG FOR FREDERIC FEKKAI. MAKEUP: SAGE MAITRI USING NARS FOR THE WALL GROUP. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 145

WH (C Girl)

Marco Bicego

Av a i l a bl ea t

S a nFr a nc i s c o Be v e r l yHi l l s 8 6 6 .

4 .

BI CEGO www. ma r c obi c e g o. c om

C

reports social front from the

Sizing up California’s glamorous scene one bash at a time Edited by Phoebe Doheney Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley, Poppy Delevigne, Kate Bosworth

CHANEL Producer Charles Finch’s annual pre-Oscar dinner with Chanel is always a smash. Those who made the coveted invite list— including some chic mother-daughter duos (Jacqui Getty/Gia Coppola, Lisa Bonet/Zoë Kravitz)—were greeted at Madeo in Beverly Hills by a lively mariachi band.

Lily Collins, Chloë Moretz January Jones, Rose Byrne Laura Bailey

Jessica Chastain

Alicia Vikander

Angela Lindvall, Shiva Rose

Zoë Kravitz, Lisa Bonet

Bella Heathcote

Melissa Grimm

Drew Barrymore

OUTNET

Naomi Watts Julianne Moore

BULGARI The stars weren’t the only ones shining at the celebration of Elizabeth Taylor’s infamous collection of Bulgari jewels at the house’s Rodeo Drive boutique. Drew Barrymore and Julianne Moore were among those lucky enough to wear some of Taylor’s iconic pieces.

C 42 MAY 2013

Sabrina Buell

Prince Emanuele Filiberto di Savoia and Princess Clotilde Courau

Carolyn Chang, Sobia Shaikh

Adding another exclusive collection to its repertoire, the Outnet welcomed Oscar de la Renta (in absentia) during a stylish luncheon in S.F. hosted by Managing Director Stephanie Phair.

CHANEL: BILLY FARRELL/BFANYC.COM. OUTNET: DREW ALTIZER. BULGARI: GETTY IMAGES FOR BULGARI

Stephanie Phair

©2012-2013 Harry Winston, Inc. Harry WinstonTM. Love MadlyTM.

Harry Winston

BEVERLY HILLS 310 NORTH RODEO DRIVE 310 271 8554 SOUTH COAST PLAZA 3333 BRISTOL STREET 714 371 1910

C

reports social front Doug Aitken, Jared Najjar Katie Traina

Juliet de Baubigny

Connie Nielsen

MID WINTER GALA Mario Testino, Gisele Bündchen and Tom Brady Matthew Mellon and Nicole Hanley Mellon

Events extraordinaire Ken Fulk turned S.F.’s most fashionable party into a winter wonderland, complete with an ice table dispensing vodka shots and caviar, a Dutch windmill, and a faux ice-rink.

Jessica Hart, Nicole Trunfio

Karolína Kurková, Naomi Campbell

MARIO TESTINO/PRISM: DAVID X PRUTTING/BFANYC.COM. MIDWINTER GALA: DREW ALTIZER. TOM FORD: DAVID CROTTY/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM

from the

MARIO TESTINO / PRISM The only thing missing at Mario Testino’s Prism exhibition opening was a catwalk.

Gisele Bündchen and Prism’s PC Valmorbida and Jared Najjar hosted an after-party at the Fleur de Lys mansion in Beverly Hills with support from Equipment and Dom Pérignon.

Allison Speer

Carolyn Murphy and Lincoln Pilcher

Marissa Mayer

Alessandra Ambrosio, Carlos Souza

Chanel Iman

PC Valmorbida, Danny Houston

Alexis Traina

Vanessa Getty

Gelila Assefa Puck

Lisa and Eric Eisner

Stephen Moyer and Anna Paquin

TOM FORD

Tom Ford

In support of Project Angel Food, Tom Ford launched his new eyewear collection at a stylish cocktail party held in the Rodeo Drive flagship.

Eva Chow

Liberty Ross

C 44 MAY 2013

FOR MORE PARTIES, PICTURES AND CALENDAR OF EVENTS WWW.CSOCIALFRONT.COM

Brooke Davenport

Asprey

C C S SO OC C II A A LL FF RR O ON N TT

C Social Front

TT H HE E PP LL A AC CE E TT O O S SE EE E & & B BE E S SE EE EN N Plus, Plus, our our calendar calendar of of California’s California’s upcoming upcoming events events w w w. c s o c i a l f r o n t . c o m w w w. c s o c i a l f r o n t . c o m

VerSaCe ©2013 South CoaSt plaza

where Southern California finds the very best BalenCiaga BarBara Bui Bottega Veneta BVlgari Cartier Chanel Chloé ChoparD ChriStian louBoutin DaViD yurMan Dior Donna Karan new yorK FenDi guCCi herMèS JiMMy Choo lanVin louiS Vuitton M MiSSoni praDa

South Coast Plaza

ralph lauren reD Valentino roBerto CaValli roger ViVier Saint laurent SalVatore FerragaMo Van CleeF & arpelS Valentino VerSaCe partial listing

SaKS FiFth aVenue BlooMingDale’S norDStroM MaCy’S

San Diego Fwy (405) at BriStol St. CoSta MeSa, Ca 800.782.8888 SouthCoaStplaza.CoM

Nic & Zoe

N I C A N D ZO E .CO M

C fashion CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Bulgari

SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 145

bracelet.

Van Cleef & Arpels necklace.

David Webb brooch.

Asprey bangle.

Neil Lane ring. David Webb ring.

Gray Gallery bracelet.

Fashion (Opener)

Snake Charmers

With ruby eyes, golden scales and emerald skins, serpentine styles slither through spring EDITED BY SAMANTHA TRAINA

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TUCKER + HOSSLER MAY 2013

C 49

fashion Gold charm bracelet.

Small Wonders

I

INTO THE BLUE L.A. designer Raquel Allegra, beloved for her deconstructed, web-like textures and hand-tie-dyed separates, dives into swimwear and denim this season with an acid-washed bikini, jacket and skirt. raquelallegra.com.

Small, right, and a young woman who worked at Turquoise Mountain.

Flying High

Dentelle d’hiver necklace, price upon request.

Louis Vuitton’s Voyage dans le Temps, one of the first collections to be designed in-house at the new High Jewelry Atelier on Place Vendôme, recently traveled to Los Angeles for a North American unveiling. The assemblage includes Galaxie Monogram diamond-drop earrings, Dentelle d’hiver monogram diamond chandelier earrings, a Peter Pan collar-style necklace and super-sparkly statement rings. What’s more?

Clients who special order the pieces can make periodic visits to the salon to oversee the progress. louisvuitton.com.

BEVERLY HILLS

Take 110 heel, $895.

C 50 MAY 2013

LONDON CALLING British luxury shoe brand Charlotte Olympia opens up shop in the Golden State this month with a premiere Beverly Hills boutique. The 1,250-square-foot space (its largest to date) will house fan favorites like the velvet Kitty slippers and spring’s Hollywoodland collection—transparent pink sandals with film-reel straps, Swarovski-embellished flats and towering Deco-malachite pumps— all influenced by ’40s and ’50s Hollywood pinups. $595-$2,957; 474 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., charlotteolympia.com.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY, ANNINA MISLIN AND ALISA WOLFSON. LOUIS VUITTON: KANJI ISHII

Washed denim bikini, $268.

n addition to designing jewelry for her boutiques in London and Brentwood, Pippa Small is lending her creativity to a cause that alleviates poverty while protecting traditions. As Director of Jewelry Design for Turquoise Mountain, an organization that links Afghan craftsmen and women to international markets, Small has traveled to Kabul several times to cultivate ideas using minerals found in the region. Her latest collection with the cause is partly inspired by the shooting stars in the dark Middle Eastern sky—uninterrupted by war. Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., #19, S.M., 310-260-9222; pippasmall.com.

De Grisogono

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White diamoNds , emeralds , peridots , aNd piNk sapphires .

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(310) 550-5900 (310) 550-5900

A b u d h A b i - d u b A i - g e n e vA - g s tA A d - k u wA i t - l A s v e g A s - l o n d o n - m i A m i - m o s c o w n e w y o r k - PA r i s - P o r t o c e r v o - r o m e - s t b A r t h e l e m y - s t m o r i t Z - t o k y o

fashion

WHITE OUT Spring into summer with David Webb’s polished bijoux.

The fine jeweler debuts a white enamel collection of rings and bracelets at the Beverly Hills boutique, drawing inspiration from illustrated archives. Slick finishes, platinum and diamonds add elegance to any warm-weather wardrobe.

9621 Brighton Way, B.H., 310-858-8006; davidwebb.com.

White enamel ring (center) and bracelets.

Giuseppe Zanotti with Anja Rubik wearing asymmetric sandals, $1,750.

SHORT STORIES

W

hen designer Smith Sinrod launched her line BySmith in 2010, she referenced a trip to Thailand with a panoply of rich silks.

For spring, find the material in casual-cool shorts and feather-light tops, perfect for a day in Malibu. bysmithcollection.com.

MODEL FORM

This season, Polish stunner Anja Rubik adds designer to her resume with a footwear and handbag collection for Giuseppe Zanotti. Rubik—who has starred in the Italian designer’s ads for seven years— was inspired by ’70s headliners from The Roxy Theatre. “The idea was kind of punk, grunge and still sexy,” she says. “[Giuseppe and I] have the same vision of a sexy heel.”

The result? Chic leather stilettos with gold chain details, strappy flats, booties with corseted lacing and a structured suede bag. $695-$1,750; giuseppezanottidesign.com.

Peep-toe booties, $1,295.

IN THE CURL Tommy Hilfiger’s capsule collection, Surf Shack (in support of The Art Production Fund), hits boutiques next month with beach fashions and a limited-edition series of boards custom designed by American artists: Lola Schnabel, Richard Phillips, Scott Campbell, Gary Simmons and Raymond Pettibon.

157 N. Robertson Blvd., WeHo, 310-247-1475; tommy.com.

Raymond Pettibon limited-edition surfboard, for Tommy Hilfiger in collaboration with Art Production Fund, $2,000.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY AND ANNINA MISLIN. SHORTS: MOR WEIZMAN

FROM LEFT Smith Sinrod. Playa shorts, $220, Jami Lyn, 310-657-5887.

Eres

fashion BEVERLY HILLS

LOOKING SHARP Stephen Webster will offer his latest silver collection at the Beverly Hills boutique this season. The focal point of the lineup (think drop earrings with spear shapes and mother of pearl accents) is a delicate barbed-wire cuff…that’s naughty and nice. $795-$1,050; 202 N. Rodeo Dr., 310-246-9500; stephenwebster.com.

FRESH FIND San Diego designer Jonathan Cohen debuts at Maxfield this season, serving up playful, highwaisted shorts with cropped blazers; ruffled, fitted skirts; and floorgrazing dresses in witheredbloom motifs.

Cohen looked to California to define his feminine silhouettes and to artist Frida Kahlo for pattern inspiration.

8825 Melrose Ave., L.A., 310-274-8800; maxfieldla.com; jonathancohen collection.com.

Cropped jacket, $825, top, $230, and skirt, $625.

Collars Up

S

ince the inception of her brand in 1981, Carolina Herrera has incorporated the white blouse into countless collections.

“When I don’t know what to wear, I choose a white shirt,” says the Venezuelan-born designer. “They have always been a part of my life.” Secondary line CH Carolina Herrera now offers various iterations of the timeless staple such as a short-sleeved, perforated crewneck with peplum detail and the double-cuffed classic cut. $220-$415; 8441 Melrose Pl., WeHo, 323-782-9090.

FLOWER POWER To honor the 25th anniversary of Chanel’s first watch design, the Première (a nod to the No.5 perfume bottle stopper), look for its latest: the Tourbillon.

On a satin or alligator bracelet, the sleek, rectangular frame encases a black ceramic dial and 228 diamonds in the shape of the camellia—a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite flower. chanel.com.

Première Flying Tourbillon watch, price upon request, 800-550-0005.

SANTA MONICA

Best Coast

“[This] just seemed like the perfect fit,” says creative director of Kate Spade New York Deborah Lloyd of the lifestyle brand’s California outpost at Santa Monica Place, which opens its doors this month. “Especially for this summer’s graphic prints, bold brights and cheeky nods to the west coast.”

Find everything from whimsical handbags and pastel tweed jackets to arrestingly-chic metallic pumps. 395 Santa Monica Pl., Ste. 128, S.M., 310-260-8333; katespade.com.

C 54 MAY 2013

Clutch, $378, and Palm Springs T-shirt, $58.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY. JONATHAN COHEN: JUSTIN BORDEAUX

Forget Me Knot cuff, $795.

Shirt, $280, carolinaherrera.com.

David Webb

fashion

Tooling Around

L.A. designer Juan Carlos Obando introduces a line of heavy metal jewelry BY KRISTINA DECHTER

Designer Juan Carlos Obando in his studio.

Look from his Spring 2013 collection.

MAKING A SPECTACLE Japan-based Maison Kitsune and California’s Oliver Peoples have reinterpreted two vintage frames from the 1950s. Flip up the clip-on polarized rose lenses of the Tokyo model, or go for the more feminine Paris style in Dark Tortoise acetate with green mirror. 8642 W. Sunset Blvd., B.H., 310-657-2553.

FROM LEFT Paris, $450, and Tokyo, $550, oliverpeoples.com.

C 56 MAY 2013

Medium silver ring, $205, and tall silver ring, $230.

WRITTEN BY ALISA WOLFSON. JUAN CARLOS OBANDO, PORTRAIT AND STUDIO (6): MOR WEIZMAN; RUNWAY: COURTESY OF JUAN CARLOS OBANDO. MAISON KITSUNE: BRAD ELTERMAN

A

ffectionately known as JCO, Juan Carlos Obando is soft spoken and sweet, visibly charged by his environment and acutely aware of his customer. As his collection—now in its sixth year—became more defined, the designer saw an opportunity to create a complementary accessories line. “The idea kept coming up. ‘She needs to wear jewelry with these pieces,’” he says. “It could no longer be an afterthought.” Not a diffusion label to join what has become his signature evening wear, the jewelry is part and parcel with the clothing; there is an undeniable communication between the two.

The tight collection of 15 pieces takes its cue from forms and textures that can be found at a local hardware store, like the thick-cut Saw Blade rings and twisted metal bangles that bring nails and washers to mind. Just as Obando’s ready-towear pieces eschew embellishment (or as he says, “there is no frouf to them!”), the all-brass jewelry is without additional adornment. “When working with just metals, you really have to think through the shapes,” Obando explains. “You’re not hiding behind any precious stones and saying, ‘It’s valuable.’” A particularly clever bracelet called The Transformer screws in and out of place with four separate pieces that form a delicate, vice-like square around the wrist.

It’s a collection of opposites: polished but raw, sophisticated while edgy. “There must be wit; otherwise, it’s too pretentious.”

The line is also accessible; whereas one of his garments might cost $1,100, the jewelry begins at $200. Obando views his accessories as “spontaneous and nonchalant,” and he wants his clients to have the same attitude—throwing it on and scratching it up in the everyday. “There must always be an ease,” he says. And that applies as much to his to his stripped-down metal creations as it does to his colorful silk dresses.

Available at Barneys New York; jcobando.com.

OPENING SPRING 2013 MARIN COUNTRY MART MONTECITO COUNTRY MART

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R O B E RT S O N B O U L E VA R D INTERMIXONLINE.COM

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SOUTH COAST PLAZA

fashion trend

Aldo scarf, $25.

Prada necklace, $2,250.

Kate Spade Saturday iPhone 5 case, $25. RIGHT Michael Kors sandals, $690.

ABOVE

High Contrast Graphic elements in sharp black and white prove opposites really do attract

Marc by Marc Jacobs bag, $188, nordstrom.com.

Oscar de la Renta earrings, $290.

FROM ABOVE

Louis Vuitton clutch, $4,250.

Balenciaga bag, $795. Tod’s loafers, $465.

Etro sandals, $680.

Emporio Armani sandals, $570.

BOTTEGA VENETA RING: MOR WEIZMAN. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 145

Chanel

Bottega Veneta ring, $620.

Proenza Schouler bag, $1,575.

L e s s t h a n o n e p e rc e n t o f t h e wo r l d ’s d i a m o n d s c a n c a r r y t h e F o r eve r m a r k ® i n s c r i p ti o n — a p ro m i s e t h a t e a c h i s b e a u ti f u l , r a r e a n d r e s p o n s i b l y s o u r c e d .

M a r i a C a n a l e f o r F o r e v e r m a r k ®, e x c l u s i v e l y a t N e i m a n M a r c u s .

THE DIAMOND. THE PROMISE. Forevermark is part of the De Beers group of companies.

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Discover Forevermark® diamonds in exceptional designs at Neiman Marcus 9700 Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills, CA 90212, 310-550-5900 601 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, CA 92660, 949-759-1900 150 Stockton Street, San Francisco, CA 94108, 415-362-3900 www.neimanmarcus.com/forevermarkdiamonds

fashion jewelry box Harry Winston earrings.

Vhernier earrings.

De Beers earrings.

Pretty in Pink Classic blush tones add soft, eye-catching appeal to rough-cut stones and stunning evening brooches

David Yurman necklace.

de Grisogono ring.

H.Stern earrings, Saks Fifth Avenue.

Chanel watch.

Cartier brooch.

Jacob & Co. ring, Westime.

C 60 MAY 2013

Graff ring.

AUDREY HEPBURN: NORMAN PARKINSON/SYGMA/CORBIS. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 145

Audrey Hepburn, photographed

by Norman Parkinson in 1955.

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C Trunk Show PROMOTION

SPR IN G FORWA R D IN ST Y LE

ASPREY

LALIQUE

Vesta Earrings in 18-karat white gold with pavé white diamonds, pink mother of pearl and two pear-shaped diamond drops (.25 carats each), $13,500. Exclusively available in California at Lalique, 238 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-271-7892; lalique.com.

Oak Leaf ring with an oval peridot at the center surrounded by oak leaves with pavé tsavorites, set in 18-carat yellow gold, $40,200. Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-550-0520; asprey.com.

PATEK PHILIPPE

Patek Philippe Ref. 5123R, $26,800.

Patek Philippe Boutique by GEARYS, 360 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-887-4250.

MICHAEL KORS

Thin enamel buckle bangle, $95 each.

South Coast Plaza, Ste. 1237, Costa Mesa, 714-557-5600; michaelkors.com.

DAVID WEBB

Shoe Lace cuff, $58,000. 9621 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310-858-8006; davidwebb.com.

de GRISOGONO

Chiocciolina briolette cut blue sapphire ring with white diamonds and amethyst drops set in 18-karat pink gold, $10,000. Available at Neiman Marcus, 9700 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-550-5900.

BULGARI Isabella Rossellini handbag in red coral with natural chevron canvas and sand calf leather, mother of pearl effect closure, $5,700.

401 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-858-9216; South Coast Plaza, Ste. 1420, Costa Mesa, 714-751-7833.

DIOR TIMEPIECES

Dior VIII Grand Bal Plume, 38mm automatic-white ceramic-pink gold, diamonds and feathers, a limited edition of 88 pieces, price upon request.

309 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-859-4700; 866-675-2078; dior.com.

Tommy Bahama

N E W YO R K

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LOS ANGELE S

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open

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12 Issues for $19.95 Subscribe 1.800.775.3066 Or online at www.magazinec.com

True Religion

Strange Invisibile Perfumes

BE

ST RA NG E

New World Perfumes Reverently Crafted with Organic, Hydro-distilled Essences & Compelling Narratives Handmade in Venice, California

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C beauty The Chop hits just above the shoulders with some layering in the front and is topped off with bangs.

Beauty (Opener) Chop Chop written by jenny murray. SaraH mainGOt/trunK arCHiVe

Neither a bob nor a shag, the coolest cut of the year takes off

W

e’ve seen variations of it for some time, but The Chop is now frontand-center,” announces S.F.-based hair stylist Alex Chases. Setting it apart from the rest, this look “adds layers, fresh energy and more flirt.”

CHASES’ STYLING TIPS It can be as easy as flipping hair over and letting a blow-dryer do the work. Finish with a pomade to bring out the layers. For curly or wavy hair, finish ends with a flat brush to lock in the smoothness. Use Kérastase Elixir to enhance shine and movement. alexchasessalon.com. • edited by jenny murray may 2013

C 67

beauty

Discovery Zone

Expand your fragrance collection with the season’s sophisticated scents

PRODUCTS, FROM TOP Luzern

SAN FRANCISCO

1

S.F.’s Healing Arts Building.

Face Forward

Dara Kennedy

Dara Kennedy has been obsessed with skincare since she was eight. After years of working in retail and beauty marketing, she launched Ayla Beauty.. With a small team of women (mostly moms), Kennedy developed a customized approach to finding products that work without harmful ingredients. Among the made-with-care products she pedals are brands Kahina and Tatcha. Next month, Ayla will open in Pacific Heights’ old Spanish Colonial-style Healing Arts Building. The new retail space, complete with product testers for those with acute skin issues, will share a roof with natural specialists Lori Anderson Skincare, massage spot Therapeia and several licensed acupuncturists where Kennedy plans to refer clients. Stop in to meet with your very own Ayla Guide, a rigorously-trained industry expert educated by top holistic facialist Julia March. 1825 Bush St., S.F., 415-520-7320; aylabeauty.com. aylabeauty.com

2 3

4 5

BRENTWOOD

WORK IT OUT Gwyneth Paltrow hosted the opening of Hamptons-based fitness guru Tracy Anderson’s new Brentwood flagship studio last month. The Windsor Smith-designed facility features five workout rooms filled with Anderson’s patented systems, like the Iso-Kinetic Band System.

11918 San Vicente Blvd., L.A.; tracyandersonmethod.com.

C 68 MAY 2013

To make sure you leave feeling great, a blow-dry bar from stylist David Babaii is also on site.

FROM TOP

1. $265/100 ml, fredericmalle.com.

2. $110/100 ml, jomalone.com.

3. $170/125 ml, Neiman Marcus.

4. $180/50 ml, Barneys New York.

5. $120/50 ml, sergelutens.com.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY, KELSEY McKINNON AND ALISA WOLFSON

Labs Serum Absolut V12, $95. Naturopathica Rose Geranium Soothing Mist, $28. Tatcha Aburatorigami Natural Blotting Papers, $12.

The Organic Pharmacy Antioxidant Serum, $149.

russell trusso Gump’s Inspired by the beauty of the botanical world, Russell Trusso’s jewelry designs are wearable art pieces. meet the designer may 9–11, 2013

135 post street, san francisco, ca 94108 | 800.766.7628 | gumps.com

beauty

Over the Counter

I

was watching an environmental Renfrew then consulted with Mia documentary that had nothing to do Davis, a health and safety specialist for with beauty, and it sparked somethe cosmetics industry, and eco-savvy thing,” recalls Gregg Renfrew, the foundcelebrity makeup artist Christy Coleman. er of new skincare line Beautycounter, Now, Heidi Klum, Emmy Rossum which launched in March. The Santa and Miranda Kerr are snapping up the Monica-based mother of three began lightweight Every Day AM hydrating seeking products that were free of cream (with aloe, lavender, pomegranharmful chemicals. Through research, ate) and the vitamin-rich trio of Lustro she found that 80% of the ingredients Face Oils (with calendula, jasmine, used in daily personal care products chamomile and ylang ylang) FROM TOP have never been tested for safety. It for their anti-inflammatory and Lustro Body FROM LEFT Lustro Face Oil 1 Calendula; was clear; there was still a void in the marketanti-aging properties.

The brand also Oil, $68.

Lustro Face Oil 2 Jasmine; Rosewater and Lustro Face Oil 3 Ylang Ylang place. “Healthy products should be available has a social-selling platform that Uplifting & Wild Chamomile; $64 each. to every woman encourages fans to sell Spray, $32. in America, [and] I wanted to make via social media or at parties (à la Avon), a difference,” says Renfrew, whose where they can make up to 35% commisgoal is to develop natural products sion off suggested retail prices. Standthat perform well. outs like the Glow sugar scrub and Routine The first step was eliminating Clean cream cleanser will pave the way for 1,300 ingredients that have already a kids division this summer; a makeup line (complete with tinted SPF) launches in the fall. $18-$68; beautycounter.com.

PEDAL POWER

BEVERLY HILLS

Well Tressed Top colorist Amanda George (formerly of Neil George) and stylist Jonathan Antin (of Bravo’s “Blow Out”) will expand Jonathan & George this summer as well as offer an hour-long natural oil elixir treatment. “For 20 years, I have sourced and used a variety of oils from all over the world,” says George. Elixir, $150; 9320 Civic Center Dr., B.H., 310-2752808; jonathanandgeorge.com.

Flywheel West Hollywood also offers yoga.

LOS ANGELES

SPRING CLEANING Clover—the cold-pressed bar from hospitality group Cardiff Giant (The Churchill and The Hudson)—has opened a takeaway-only outpost on West 3rd Street with another in the works. 8384 ½ W. 3rd St., L.A., 323-609-3903; cloverjuice.com.

Watermelon, lime and mint juice, $8 each.

The scalp scrub-and-restore treatment returns follicles back to their natural state. Jonathan & George salon.

FROM TOP

N.Y. cycling studio Flywheel has opened its first two CA locations: West Hollywood and Larchmont Village. In addition to the heart-pumping playlists, diehards can track their performance through a tech-pack display of resistance, speed and power. flywheelsports.com.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY. GREGG RENFREW PORTRAIT: DEREK WOODEN. JONATHAN & GEORGE BOTTLES: MOR WEIZMAN

Gregg Renfrew

been banned in the E.U. (There, cosmetics safety standards are listed.)

Jurlique

100%

natural fragrance

alcohol

FREE

URS FISCHER APRIL 21– AUGUST 19, 2013

moca

URS FISCHER is made possible by The Eli and Edythe Broad Foundation, Steven A. and Alexandra M. Cohen Foundation, Larry Gagosian and Peter Morton.

Generous support of the exhibition is provided by the Margaret and Daniel Loeb Third Point Foundation, The Brant Foundation, Maja Hoffmann, Adam Lindemann and Amalia Dayan, and Eva Presenhuber.

Additional support is provided by Tony G. Salamé, Aïshti Foundation and Sotheby’s.

In-kind media support is provided by KCRW 89.9 FM and Los Angeles magazine.

Padis?

Vram

LOVE | BOND | V RAM I LLUST RAT ED BY KO NSTANT I N K A K A N I AS VRAMJEWE LRY.C O M

C home Fashionable Living

Punctuating inventive spaces with statement-making accessories, three Golden State designers let their former careers in fashion inform new interiors projects

Home (Opener)

Peden + Munk

Tamara Kaye-Honey loves strong accents— like this geometric vintage necklace and over-sized stone bust.

written and edited by christine lennon may 2013

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home TAMARA KAYE-HONEY

B

efore she was updating sprawling Altadena, CA, estates with her playful, “new vintage” style, Tamara Kaye-Honey was a clothing buyer for Bergdorf Goodman. At House of Honey, her South Pasadena store, she stocks re-invented vintage accents, like brass side tables and Italian ceramic cockatoos, all of which she loves to blend with punchy hues and patterns.

WHICH FASHION RULES APPLY TO INTERIOR DESIGN?

Once I complete a space, I remove one piece. This came from fashion: Always add then edit.

HOW DO YOU QUICKLY REFRESH A ROOM?

Layer. The more patterns and texture, the richer the feel. Stay within the parameters of a palette and mix up scale. houseofhoney.la.

MARY McDONALD

Brass accents, graphic wallpaper and dramatic colors are Kaye-Honey’s “new vintage” signatures.

ALISON BLUMENFELD

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his L.A.-based, San Francisco-bred designer studied at the Art Center College of Design and worked at Esprit de Corps before she started a namesake line of silk jersey separates. Whether Alison Blumenfeld is re-thinking a Pacific Heights penthouse or a ’30s Moderne in L.A., she has an eye for classical proportions and sculptural accessories.

HOW DOES YOUR FASHION BACKGROUND INFORM YOUR WORK?

Fashion pulls from the past and tries to make something feel “new” again.

This is vital with interiors. Furniture is expensive. Being able to re-imagine something, allowing it to change, is much of what we do.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE HOME ACCENTS?

A Manuel Canovas shade accent and painted floor transform small spaces.

C 76 MAY 2013

There is no substitute for art. As single pieces or in clusters, it is transforming.

I love a Polaroid or personal memento littered in and lots of flattering, layered lighting. blumenfeld interiors.com.

DO YOU “ACCESSORIZE” A ROOM LIKE AN OUTFIT?

I think of lamps as earrings and see them as an opportunity to add a bit of spice.

Like in fashion, you choose your “wow” accessory.

HOW DO YOU QUICKLY REFRESH A ROOM?

Try tailored slipcovers in bold colors, like red. Or paint your floor and leave it bare like a loft; it looks totally different with the same pieces. marymcdonald inc.com.

The cover of McDonald’s book and a dining room featured in its pages reveal her high-glam touches such as black-andwhite floors and ornate light fixtures.

TAMARA KAYE-HONEY PORTRAIT: PEDEN + MUNK. KAYE-HONEY INTERIORS (2): ERON RAUCH. MARY MCDONALD PORTRAIT: NINELLE EFREMOVA. MCDONALD INTERIOR: 150-151 [SIMON UPTON] © SIMON UPTON. ALISON BLUMENFELD PORTRAIT: CORAL VON ZUMWALT. BLUMENFELD ENTRY, BREAKFAST ROOM: TRISTAN DAVISON

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ravo’s “Million Dollar Decorator” star Mary McDonald has earned a reputation as a “fearless accessorizer.”

Her affinity for color and pattern is due, in part, to her training at Parsons in New York and a career as a milliner. This year, she’s introducing new trimmings with Schumacher, a rug collection (see p.78) and her fourth book, Mary McDonald Interiors: The Allure of Style (Rizzoli).

Brown Jordan

Visit our new retail showroom at South Coast Collection opening April 2013 3323 Hyland Avenue, Costa Mesa, California

949.760.6900

Sway from the Richard Frinier Collection for Brown Jordan

home

BRIGHT SPOT Gregg Hessel candlesticks.

Raven & Lily,, the ethical design company which employs underprivileged women around the globe, partnered with the Los Angeles Downtown Women’s Center for new hand-poured candles in two scents: woodsy Hermosa and mango-floral Silver Lake. $22; ravenandlily.com.

Soy candles are poured in Downtown L.A.

FROM TOP

The gracious master suite.

Michael S. Smith. The designer’s new tome.

MADE TO ORDER

PILE IT ON No stroke is too bold for designer Mary McDonald. When a search for oversized geometric rugs came up empty, she teamed up with Patterson, Flynn & Martin to create her own.

Floor coverings can be rescaled to match any interior. patterson flynnmartin.com.

Geode, colored and scaled to order.

C 78 MAY 2013

America’s Finest

I

n his fourth book on interiors for Rizzoli publishing, Building Beauty: The Alchemy of Design, Santa Monicabased designer Michael S. Smith takes remodeling hobbyists on the ultimate behind-the-scenes tour. Smith, who’s best known as Obama’s White House decorator, re-imagined an “ungraceful” Palladian villa in Malibu in 1993 and documented the meticulous transformation. Then, in another unconventional move, Christie’s auctioned off 500 lots from the home, including master paintings and Chinese antiquities, that the owners liquidated once the property was sold. With his new role as consulting creative director at Brunschwig & Fils, a design gig at Templeton, and an expanding collection of furniture at his Jasper showroom, Smith hasn’t slowed down a bit. michaelsmithinc.com.

TRACK STAR Hermès has introduced its Rallye 24 porcelain dinner service, a pattern based on the elliptical lanes of a racetrack. Could they be speeding (on a FedEx truck) your way? From $75; hermes.com.

Glazes are inspired by vintage carpaint.

RAVEN & LILY CANDLE: MOR WEIZMAN. MICHAEL S. SMITH, INTERIOR: MICHAEL MUNDY; PORTRAIT: JOAO CANZIANI; BUILDING BEAUTY: THE ALCHEMY OF DESIGN BY MICHAEL S. SMITH, RIZZOLI NEW YORK, 2013

Bespokeglobal.com connects potential collectors with talented artists like San Rafael-based metalworker Gregg Hessel (groupings of copper candlesticks, from $1,000). Buyers can browse goods online or submit a project to receive bids from a network of craftspeople.

Lalique

Vesta Collection SHOP OUR DIGITAL FLAGSHIP AT www.LALIqUe.cOm 609 mADISOn AvenUe new YORk, nY 10022 212.355.6550

2 RODeO DRIve BeveRLY HILLS, cA 90210 310.271.7892

home outside FROM LEFT Variegated

Montauk outdoor pillow, $74.

Double hanging rattan chair, $695.

3

MARIN COUNTY

Hanging Out Sausalito-based Serena & Lily kicks off summer with ogee molding-inspired emblazoning alfresco pillows and melamine trays.

Rattan and butterfly chairs round out the offerings. serenaandlily.com.

Garden kit, from $499.

LIVING ART

As Studio Choo settles into its new south S.F. location, Jill Rizzo and Alethea Harampolis now have space for extra classes and events, plus custom perfume blending. What’s more, their new book breaks down arrangements with step-by-step instructions.

339 Baden Ave., S.F., 650-634-0836; studiochoo.com.

$25, Artisan Books.

Flora & Fauna

“BUTTERFLIES & BLOOMS” A menagerie of winged beauties return to the S.F. Conservatory of Flowers in a transformed bungalow. May 8-Oct. 20; conservatoryofflowers.org. • VENICE GARDEN & HOME TOUR The 20th anniversary year celebrates cool properties by the likes of Jay Griffith and Predock Frane—on and near Abbot Kinney Boulevard. May 4; venicegardentour.org. • MENDOCINO RHODODENDRONS Take a Sunday drive to Fort Bragg and its floral-dotted bluffs. There, lush rhodos bloom in myriad shades of pink. visitmendocino.com.

SUMMERLAND

Vertical Integration

SAN FRANCISCO

At Montecito Urban Farms’ new outdoor classroom, the company producing custom tomatoes and herbs for Bouchon and the Wine Cask now leads workshops (next: May 19) on how to care for the soil-free Tower Garden—their ingenious eight-foot cylinder. 2352 Lillie Ave., Summerland, 805-694-8224; montecitourbanfarms.com.

BERKELEY

Room to Grow

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WRITTEN BY ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD. BUTTERFLIES: RON LEWIS. VENICE HOME & GARDEN: NICOLAS MARQUES. TOWER GARDEN: LINDA ALLEN BLUE PHOTOGRAPHY. ERICA TANOV (2): RICHARD POWERS

chrysalides at Golden Gate Park’s Conservatory of Flowers. A Predock Frane project in Venice.

FROM TOP

rom her oak-shaded Berkeley home/studio, fashion/accessories designer and boutique owner Erica Tanov cultivates her appreciation of nature. “I’ll draw branches and flowers I’ll find on a walk, which then become prints.” In between launching home textiles collections (an Emily Payne line including tabletop and shower curtains; a collaboration with Oakland-based Creative Growth), prepping for fall and running stores in S.F., Larkspur, Berkeley and N.Y., the mother of two also gardens “so something’s always blooming.” The cusp of summer offers quince, late dogwood and salvia, and snowqueen hydrangea. “I love cutting branches and growing things in my house,” she says. “But then again, how many bits of magnolia can I line up in the foyer?” 1827 4th St., Berkeley, 510-849-3331; ericatanov.com.

FROM LEFT Tanov

and her son, Hugo. Tables always have arrangements—like these pale pink dahlias.

Marimekko

C

Events Katie Traina

Jenny Merritt

Gillian Jarvis, Lindsay Goodlin

Amy Levins

JOIE

Samantha Traina

S

Natasha Sadeghi, Stephanie Unger

an Francisco’s fashion set came together for Joie’s Fillmore Street boutique event, hosted by C Fashion Editor (and Joie stylist) Samantha Traina.

Guests enjoyed Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne and hors d’oeuvres by Patina as they celebrated the start of spring.

Elaine Hayes, Samantha Ouellette

Patsy Tisch, Ursula Nesbitt

JOIE: TARA LUZ STEVENS FOR DREW ALTIZER. DE BEERS: MIKE GARDNER

Charlene Abalos Gueco, Christine Abalos

Carolyn Espley-Miller, Susan McCaw

DE BEERS

D

evon Pike, CEO of De Beers Diamond Jewellers, joined C to fête the flourishing Adonis Rose Collection at The Stonehouse restaurant, San Ysidro Ranch.

Ladies were dazzled by the latest jewelry designs as well as live music by a flamenco guitarist and flutist.

Arlene Montesano, Jelinda DeVorzon

PROMOTION

Kendall Conrad, Gina Tolleson

Anne Towbes, Lady Leslie Ridley-Tree

Elizabeth Slaught, Devon Pike

Vhernier

Rosewood Resorts - Sand Hill

Spring is in the Air 7 Days a Week at Sense Spa

Time to get sandal ready!

Book an Essential Manicure and Essential Pedicure and enjoy our SpringTime savings ($115.00 value for $90.00)!

Advanced reservations are strongly suggested.

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Receive a complimentary Kerastase Ritual Treatment ($35.00 value) when booking your haircut and style appointment at Alex Chases Salon Menlo Park!

650.561.1580 | sensespa.com 650.561.1562 | alexchasessalon.com

2895 Sand Hill Road, Menlo Park, CA 94025

C the menu

Menu (Opener) Sakizuke (a pairing of something common and something unique): Cauliflower tofu, brined salmon roe, Santa Barbara uni and uni butter, micro greens.

the art of seasoning Tucked away in Palms, a Japanese method, exquisitely expressed

e

ven though reservations book out weeks in advance for an evening seating at West L.A.’s n/naka, anyone with a grip on the unmarked door inevitably looks around to make sure it’s the right place.

Within the concrete triangle framed by 10-405-Venice Boulevard, the façade is still remarkably unassuming.

Inside, rectangular trays filled with smooth pebbles

written and edited by alison clare steingold

replace florals, a glassed-in case holds bottles of sparkling wine and Alsatian pinot blanc. Simplicity belies complexity—kind of like a Kurosawa film.

Chalk that up to Niki Nakayama. While one could head straight to Kitcho or Kikunoi in Kyoto for the experience, stateside, hers is among the few restaurants exclusively devoted to the rigorous cooking >>

photographed by Zen sekiZawa may 2013

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A FEW OF N/NAKA’S MODERN KAISEKI COURSES, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT SUIMONO (still water)

Lobster shinjo mousseline, fennel and chives, momotaro tomato-dashi broth. ZENSAI (main seasonal ingredient presented as an appetizer) Oil-poached halibut with mushrooms cooked in the ways that suit them, lotus root. OWANMONO (still water) Carrot soup sphere, caviar, crème fraîche. MODERN ZAKURI (interpretation of sashimi) New Zealand King salmon, avocado purée, soy reduction, marinated kelp. NIKU (meat course) Australian wagyu on magnolia leaf, red miso sauce. SAKIZUKE (a pairing of something common and something unique) Japanese octopus, cucumber salad, cucumber air, sesame aïoli, sanbaizu vinegar gelée.

Niki Nakayama

C 86 MAY 2013

<< practice of kaiseki. (Others are Katsuhiro Yamasaki’s Wakuriya in San Mateo, and New York’s Kyo-Ya.) A younger Nakayama embraced the format while living in Japan—years before opening her first restaurant, her apprenticeship under Takao Izumida and even before culinary school.

While often mistakenly used as shorthand for any multi-course, fancy Japanese meal, the word kaiseki references the most formal way to dine.

It also harkens zen monasteries, and tea ceremonystyle dinners. It is not omakase, the extended sushi dinner concept where skilled chefs riff freely.

Achieving harmony in sparing beauty, kaiseki is more structured than omakase. Like scenes in a play, the chef links dishes in a progression. (At n/naka, for example, the Modern Kaiseki is 13 plates.) Confined by rules with keen attention to aesthetic and balance, each course requires a specific concept or method to fulfill—Sakizuke: pairing of something common and something unique; Suimono: still water; Mushimono: steamed dish; Shiizakana: not bound by tradition.

In this search for harmony, the tone is seasonality—an encapsulation of variables like region, time of year, climate, weather, flavors, what crop is at peak. To that end, Nakayama grows vegetables and herbs in her Arcadia garden. She harvests every morning before driving across town to prepare the day’s menu. As summer approaches, she’s planting exceptional kabocha squash and baby corn, shiso leaves and borage.

The chef explains, “You can have great ingredients and great technique. That’s a given. What’s different is how well a chef seasons food so nothing gets lost. Our preferences are also greatly affected by the foods we eat as we are growing up.

I could use salt or soy or sugar to get to what I feel is the right point…and it has to fit the environment,” she adds. “Seasoning is instinctual.” A simple pickled daikon. A multidimensional carrot purée. Decadent crab, dashi, yuzu and an egg ready for piercing. Follow the server’s directions and taste. Perfectly seasoned. 3455 S. Overland Ave., L.A., 310-836-6252; n-naka.com. •

ZEN SEKIZAWA

menu

DISCOVER A PL ACE WH ERE LUXURY IS SECOND NATURE .

Stanford Shopping Center To book your Napa Valley stay, please call 800 942 4220 or visit calistogaranch.com. Discover the exclusive benefits of our one-of-a-kind private residences complete with signature Auberge amenities and services.

Call 800 942 4220 or visit calistogaranchliving.com for more information.

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menu

Elegant Alternatives BEL AIR

The 13-acre estate includes 7.2 acres of vineyards.

Rare Offering

O

riginally Wizard of Oz director Victor Fleming’s horse ranch, Bel Air’s Moraga Vineyards Estate employs the same viticulturist as Harlan Estate, and its boutique wines are poured at Alain Ducasse. On the market for $29.5 million, here’s your turnkey chance for the elite vineyards, tasting room, caves and modern facilities. Jim Kline, Surterre Properties, 888-898-9992; moragavineyards.com.

ORANGE COUNTY

SUPPLY + DEMAND

PLANT-BASED

Doyenne of green cooking, Deborah Madison has tackled her 10th book. Each of the 12 sections in Vegetable Literacy—think mint family, nightshades— imparts kitchen and gardening wisdom (how to steam an artichoke), and offers inviting recipes (chilled beet soup with purslane salad and sorrel sauce). $40; Ten Speed Press.

Chefs know there’s only one L.A. place to find Belgian pearl sugar, Jeni’s Ice Cream and imported cheeses under the same roof. Now, 76-year-old gourmet supply Surfas opens at SoCo Collection in Costa Mesa. 3309 Hyland Ave., C.M., 714-453-2665; surfasonline.com.

VEGAN

FROM TOP The

At high-profile chef Tal Ronnen’s innovative new Crossroads: Enter the Studio Collective designed, sophisticated space, order a Lillet cocktail and feast on kelp-caviar, risotto-stuffed peppers and ginger biscotti. It’s anything but crunchy. 8284 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323-782-9245; crossroadskitchen.com.

Yummy Mummy Kitchen, $28, HarperOne. Eggs baked in phyllo cups.

SANTA BARBARA

Mum’s the Word C 88 MAY 2013

Food stylist/writer/photographer Marina Delio’s flawless Mother’s Day brunch tips: THINK AHEAD Prepare the night before for an egg dish, scones with lemon curd, and baked French toast.

DIY COCKTAILS Juices to serve with champagne: apricot, peach, guava. FRESH IDEA Use local lavender, wild daisies and sweet peas for garnish. yummymummykitchen.com.

CUP4CUP: COURTESY OF CUP4CUP. THE YUMMY MUMMY KITCHEN: MOR WEIZMAN; EGG SHOT: MARINA DELIO. CROSSROADS: ELIZABETH DANIELS

GLUTEN-FREE

From The French Laundry laboratory in Yountville, chefs Lena Kwak and Thomas Keller released a Cup4Cup gluten-free pancake/waffle mix.

A brownie blend and sandwich bread mix are in the works.

From $15; cup4cup.com.

Privileges (Caruso)

Stanford Shopping Center BLOOMINGDALE’S MACY’S NEIMAN MARCUS NORDSTROM APPLE BURBERRY CALYPSO ST. BARTH COACH EILEEN FISHER ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR LABELLE DAY SPAS & SALONS LOUIS VUITTON MARIMEKKO MAXMARA MICHAEL KORS MICROSOFT POTTERY BARN RALPH LAUREN SONY STUART WEITZMAN THE MELT TIFFANY & CO. TORY BURCH VINCE WILKES BASHFORD EL CAMINO REAL & SAND HILL ROAD, PALO ALTO SHOPPING LINE® 650.617.8200

menu

SAN FRANCISCO

Milling About

NAPA VALLEY

Party Hopping

and bake. Today, the enthusiastic Baker just wants to share how “pumped up” he is, especially with the on-site milling program.

Inside The Mill, a day’s production runs about 150-250 loaves, 100-150 cookies, jars of granola, and, naturally, slices of coffee cake. There’s sourdough, and rye, plenty of hearty whole grains, and the popular treat from the get-go has been…toast. “It’s the best bread we know how to make. By keeping it really simple, we’ve been able to make something most people haven’t had before.”

736 Divisadero St., S.F., 415-345-1953; themillsf.com.

FROM LEFT

Deborah Harlan, Lukie Chappellet.

Ma(i)sonry dinner.

With more than 350 participating vintners, the philanthropic event of the season returns.

The series of intimate and grand winery dinners, cave fêtes, barrel and live bidding that comprises Auction Napa Valley has raised more than $110 million for local non-profits over its 32-year run. Don’t miss a special dinner with Joseph Lenn of Tennesse’s exceptional Blackberry Farm. May 30-Jun. 2; auctionnapavalley.org.

Single Malt, $216/ box of 24.

C 90 MAY 2013

SHARP IDEA They’ve officially thought of everything: small-batch Daneson toothpicks, infused with intriguing flavors such as CinnaMint Nº7, juniper-infused Smoked Nº5, and a peaty Single Malt Nº16. daneson.com.

SAN LUIS OBISPO

YOUR TURN Josh McFadden, creative director of design agency Proof Wine Collective, is a winemaker to boot (Atonement pinot noir with Sans Liege’s Curt Schalchlin, for one).

He has joined with Rob Murray to launch Turncoat Wine Co. inside SLO’s historic Creamery building later this spring. The cool new wine bar and restaurant serves the most diverse (and visually arresting) Central California wines—plus 500 others from around the world.

A store, tasting room and event space will be coming soon. 570 Higuera St., SLO; turncoatwine.com.

Proof Wine Collective’s portfolio.

JOSEY BAKER (5): COLIN PRICE. AUCTION: TABLE: LUKE SNYDER; PARTY: JASON TINACCI. DANESON: SI HOANG. TURNCOAT WINE CO.: COURTESY OF PROOF WINE COLLECTIVE

J

ust shy of three years ago, Josey Baker—and that is his real name—was delivering sourdough loaves to S.F.’s Gravel & Gold boutique, pick-up point for his bread subscription service. Soon outgrowing his own oven, he turned to Pizzaiolo’s wood-fired beauty, then Mission Pie’s, late at night and early in the morning. “That’s when the bread business took off,” he says.

In the summer of 2011, Jeremy Tooker of Four Barrel Coffee asked if he wanted to collaborate on a Divisadero cafe. To prepare himself, Baker set out for Chico, where master baker Dave Miller was his mentor. He drove up weekly, for three days each, to mill

Santa Monica Place

Heart Project

no woman should be told she won’t live to have children.

Alex Sepkus Kommah came to City of Hope with an advanced form of inflammatory breast cancer, having been told she had a 5% chance for survival. We have the largest program for breast cancer in California, so our doctors knew just what to do. They treated Kommah with an intense regimen of chemotherapy. This was followed by a double mastectomy with state-of-the-art reconstruction to give her the earliest start in looking and feeling like herself again. Today, Kommah has a beautiful baby boy and is very much alive and healthy – six years later. The goal of curing cancer isn’t just something we work at. It’s what we live for.

If you have cancer, make us your first call. Or ask your doctor for a referral. We accept most insurance.

800-826-HOPE

We live to cure cancer.

Science saving lives. cityofhope.org/breast

Monique Lhuillier

LOS ANGELES 8485 MELROSE PLACE 323.655.1088

MONIQUELHUILLIER.COM

C travel

Travel (Opener)

Kunis in front of the old Kagem emerald mine (Gemfields’ largest) that was filled with water and turned into a lake.

THEO WENNER

Treasure Hunt

Actress Mila Kunis treks to Zambia with the world’s most distinguished name in colored gems

WRITTEN AND EDITED BY JENNY MURRAY MAY 2013

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travel

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Aerial of Zambian

M

ila Kunis is relaxed, sitting on a couch at West Hollywood’s Soho House. Flanked by posters of herself, shot by Mario Sorrenti, dripping in emeralds and rubies, she unveils her partnership with Londonbased Gemfields. She’s quick to say she is still settling into her role as spokesperson for the world’s largest supplier of colored stones: “I’m learning, I’m learning. The same way I learned about fashion over the past seven years, I’m now learning about jewelry.”

As part of her tutelage, Kunis, 29, recently traveled to Zambia to visit its facilities and community outreach programs. She saw the company’s mines, went to the schools they support, saw the medical infrastructure they’re building and the lakes they’re creating. “Instead of letting [the old mining sites] go to waste, they’re filling them up and putting fish in and letting them become their own ecosystem for the community,” says the actress. The six-year-old mine-to-market corporation supplies its emeralds, rubies and amethysts to 37 jewelry brands—The Gem Palace in Jaipur and London’s Solange Azagury-Partridge among them.

“I didn’t know where gems came from—that an emerald comes from 500-million-year-old sediment and a diamond only comes from 100-million-year-old sediment—that there’s this amazing level of rarity and purity,” she says with a newfound appreciation for the process. “I’ve always looked at jewelry as a luxury. It’s something I’ve associated with a gift.”

For a girl who simply wears a necklace her mother gave her and a ring from her grandmother, she says it’s impossible to pick new favorites, but: “I now love emeralds because I’ve been able to go and actually mine for one. I appreciate the history of it…But I love rubies, too. They’re all so stunning!” gemfields.co.uk. •

MILA KUNIS IN STUDIO: MARIO SORRENTI. KUNIS ON LOCATION (2): THEO WENNER. RING: CHRIS TRAYER. AERIAL, MINERS (3): BOO GEORGE. EMERALDS (2): COURTESY OF GEMFIELDS

landscape. Mila Kunis as the new face of Gemfields. A Gem Palace ring with Gemfields Zambian emerald and diamonds.

Miners on-site at Kagem. Zambian emeralds. Kunis explores the Kagem tunnels. The actress arrives in Mfuwe, Zambia.

Calistoga Ranch

S A N T A M O N I C A 1343 4th Street (310) 394-5354 S A N F R A N C I S C O 361 Sutter Street (415) 837-1442 P O R T L A N D 208 NW 13th Avenue (503) 228-0407 S C O T T S D A L E 7051 E. Fifth Avenue, Suite A (480) 947-2450 S A N T A F E 110 Don Gaspar (505) 989-3435 W A S H I N G T O N D C 3307 Cadyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Alley, NW (202) 339-9885 C H I C A G O 25 East Huron Street (312) 642-8193 N E W Y O R K 353 Columbus Avenue (212) 780-0930

ShopBabette.com

travel W Retreat Koh Samui, Thailand.

L.A.-based Allah-Las will be performing.

TOTING AROUND Kate Spade is celebrating its 20th anniversary with limited-edition canvas travel totes informed by Starwood Preferred Guest’s destinations.

Take the Love Is In The Air bag to The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort in French Polynesia or the Par For The Course bag to Turnberry Resort, Scotland. $199, katespade.com.

Napa’s new groove: a music festival and more Downtown Napa hosts Bottlerock, a five-day celebration of music, wine, food, comedy and beer, commencing May 8. More than 60 bands, including The Shins, Train and The Flaming Lips, will perform on three stages while some 40 wineries pour their latest vintages.

Gourmet food trucks will be stationed on two walkable square miles of the festival, which runs along the Napa River.

Passes from $139; bottlerocknapavalley. com. WHILE YOU’RE IN TOWN Quell your cravings at cozy Ciccio, where simple pizzas and entrees are cooked in a wood-fired oven using ingredients from the garden. 6770 Washington St., Yountville, 707-945-1000. • Make a pit stop at Kelly’s Fuel and Provisions, a full-service gas station that offers fancy foods, drinks and knickknacks (in addition to petrol). 6795 Washington St., Yountville, 707-944-8165.

• Have an unforgettable brunch at St. Helena’s French Blue of malted buttermilk waffles or an oven-baked huckleberry pancake prepared by resident chef Philip Wang, formerly of nearby Carneros Inn. 1429 Main FROM ABOVE St., S.H., 707-968-9200.

Patio at • Soothe your soul with French Auberge Attunement, Blue.

Auberge a restorative blend du Soleil. of massage therapies, herbal compresses, essential oils and hot-and-cold stone techniques at Auberge du Soleil. $240; 180 Rutherford Hill Rd., Rutherford, 707-963-1211.

GRAB BAGS

K

endall Conrad’s ’s Loon Point collection reflects her laid-back Santa Barbara heritage. Using a natural palette of sun-bleached colors found in the sandstone cliffs, seagrass, succulents and beach rocks, her American alligator and snakeskin creations are the epitome of relaxed west coast cool. kendallconraddesign.com.

Malaguena alligator clutch in Aloe, $4,554.

COLORWHEELS Louis Vuitton’s new Epi Pégase luggage takes monochromatic seriously: all 18 pieces —including zips, wheels and handles—are the same hue as the leather. 295 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-859-0457; louisvuitton.com.

Figue Epi Pégase 45 bag, $3,200.

WRITTEN BY ALISA WOLFSON. ALLAH-LAS: NICK WALKER. W RETREAT KOH SAMUI: RALF XTOOTEN/STARWOOD. FRENCH BLUE: ERIC WOLFINGER

Valley Fair

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C culture

Culture (Opener)

Opie and her dog, Sunny, in her studio with images of Elizabeth Taylorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closet on the walls.

Turning Focus

a rare visit with Golden State photographer Catherine Opie reveals a fresh perspective in her latest endeavor written and edited by elizabeth Khuri chandler

PhOtOGraPhed by JeSSica SaMPle may 2013

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FROM TOP Opie’s recent exhibition at Regen Projects. The artist in front of her many seamless colored backgrounds. RighT A portrait of Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte. LeFT The artist likes to work from contact sheets, preferring to keep some aspects of the form “tactile.”

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JESSICA SAMPLE (4). kAtE And LAurA MuLLEAvy: CAtHErInE OPIE

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n a blustery Friday morning near USC, photographer Catherine Opie opens the front gate to her 1908 Craftsman home. “Come on in,” she says. She’s wearing a peaked hat, dress shirt and loosefitting jeans, eyes framed by thick white glasses. We pass a tangle of succulents and overgrown flowers and walk inside, where Opie’s partner—a painter and resident green thumb, Julie Burleigh is just leaving for the day.

The feeling is cozy and intimate: worn oriental rugs, an Arco lamp, a disco Gumby by Raymond Pettibon, a small Lari Pittman in the hallway, a stylized photograph of two men dancing together by Robert Mapplethorpe is in the living room. Out the back door, past a chicken coop and a beehive, is Opie’s Roger White-designed studio. Here, the skylights have shades so Opie can block out the sun and create those Holbeininspired studio portraits for which she’s known. Today, however, the shades are pulled back, shedding light on her latest project hanging on the walls: Elizabeth Taylor’s closet.

Shot with a Hasselblad H2 with a digital back (in Opie’s opinion, the closest approximation to film), the photographs are close-ups of silks and ermine hanging cheek by jowl, almost unrecognizable beyond texture and color. “What is iconic?” she asks. Throughout her career, she has consistently toyed with that concept. In the 2003 series “Surfers” and the 1994-95 series “Freeway,” she reworked those L.A. motifs.

“Surfers are always on a wave; mine are waiting,” she says. “Freeways are always full; mine are empty.”

With Elizabeth Taylor, Opie took a similar approach.

“The estate understood I wasn’t interested in the project in relationship to her celebrity. I was interested in >>

Marin Community Foundation

culture

Untitled #4 (Surfers), 2003. on opie’s inspiration board, above her studio, is an annual Happy fall card (picturing her son, oliver) she sends to friends and family. Untitled #30 from “freeway” series, 1994. printing a selection from the elizabeth taylor project. Adam, and Nick, both 2003.

<< the relationship to what is human,” she says. It’s the first time any photographer has tackled the inner sanctum of Taylor’s closet.

A business connection first put Opie in touch with Taylor’s people (they have the same accountant), and Opie began the six-month project in 2011 without ever meeting the actress, who had been promised the final edit of the photographs. “She would watch me through her bedroom curtains,” recalls Opie. Then, when Taylor passed away before that final edit, the body of work became both a documentation of her possessions and the dismantling of Taylor’s personal space. “That in itself was a challenge,” says Opie. “I didn’t want the project to be in the realm of morbidity, but this was intense because it was through a transformation.” As I flip through the binder of contact sheets, there are jewels piled like pirate’s booty spilling out of a box. Other images are shot out of focus so the gems become abstract shapes and forms. In later pages, the objects become archival—the members of Christie’s tagging them like artifacts. Opie hopes to have completed her final selects by August, and she plans on an Eggleston-style portfolio, a coffee table book and exhibition.

Nothing is firmed up yet, however.

Along with her ongoing work as a professor at UCLA, Opie recently exhibited at Regen Projects; the Woodbury University gallery in Hollywood, where she received the Excellence in Photography award from the Julius Shulman Institute; and the Long Beach Museum of Art. The Ohio native, with degrees from SF Art Institute and CalArts, was first noticed for photographing members of San Francisco’s LGBT community, often in formal poses and with a regal air. Shaun Regen of Regen Projects, who has represented Opie in L.A. CoNtiNuEd oN PAGE 144

I’m not interested in being a singular identity,” she says. “I’m just not.

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studio (2): JEssiCA sAMPLE. CAtHERiNE oPiE’s PHotoGRAPHs (4): CouRtEsy REGEN PRoJECts, Los ANGELEs © CAtHERiNE oPiE

clockwise from top left

Chelsea Property Group

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Good Graces

FROM GALACTIC VOYAGES TO ’50S JAZZ BARS, ACTRESS ZOE SALDANA KEEPS HER COOL ON HOLLYWOOD’S WILD RIDE

BY KELSEY McKINNON

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Valentino dress, $7,990.

De Beers earrings, price upon request, and ring, $800.

FASHION EDITOR: SAMANTHA TRAINA

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Salvatore Ferragamo dress, $6,100.

De Beers earrings, price upon request.

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HAIR: MARA RoszAk foR MoRoccAnoIl At stARwoRksARtIsts.coM. MAkEUP: AMy oREsMAn foR nEUtRogEnA cosMEtIcs. MAnIcURE: cHRIstInA AvIlEs At oPUs BEAUty UsIng cHAnEl. sEt DEsIgn: Jc MolInA/clM. tAIloR: lEslIE sUzUkI. AssIstAnt fAsHIon EDItoR: AnnInA MIslIn. IntERns: ERIk stAAlBERg, lInDsAy kInDElon, coURtnEy zUPAnskI. sEE sHoPPIng gUIDE foR MoRE DEtAIls, PAgE 145

In Hollywood, every day Is judgment day... it comes with the territory. And if you’re an actress, expect the nth degree: You’re too tall, too short, too skinny, too fat, too black, too white, can’t speak a second or third language. Add paparazzi and the pressure proves too great for many young starlets. But, there are a few girls out there who have managed to pass to the other side. Zoe Saldana, a 34-year-old, black Latina from Queens with a collection of talents, is one of them.

In 2009, director J.J. Abrams called to offer her the coveted role of Uhura in the widely anticipated reprisal of Star Trek.

Saldana had never seen the film before auditioning, but Abrams recognized her inner trekkie. On the phone from the set of her new movie, Infinitely Polar Bear in Providence, RI, she talks about being a minority in the industry. “I’m only aware of all these little boxes that people put me in or put each other in when they’re brought to my attention. I’m an artist, so when I read a script I just go for it…I’m able to carry myself in a very neutral way.”

Abrams’ second installment, Star Trek Into Darkness, is being released this month and the gang (Chris Pine, Eric Bana, Zachary Quinto) will meet in Germany to kick off a worldwide press tour. The movie was shot in L.A. and San Francisco and is expected to do as well, if not better than, the first: $257 million at the box office. This time, Saldana admits of the plot, “Oh my god, we are in deep shit.” The star has proven her mass appeal with big-budget projects like Pirates of the Caribbean, Avatar and Colombiana. In fact, the only public protest over having Saldana on a bill was when she was cast to play her own childhood hero, the famous black singer/composer Nina Simone, in a biopic that will be released later this summer.

“When I signed up for it, I had a feeling there was gonna be a little controversy. I’m not unaware of the world that we live in, especially American culture,” says Saldana, who lived in New York until the family moved to her mother’s native Dominican Republic when she was 10. The backlash arose from certain camps that argued she wasn’t “black enough” to play the Civil Rights activist. “It did hurt a little, but at the end of the day, I wanted her story to be told. She wanted to be a classical pianist at a time when it was very hard for black women.

I did it out of love.”

First-time director Cynthia Mort (“Will and Grace,” “Roseanne”) wrote and directed the film under equal criticism.

Saldana purports, “If Elizabeth Taylor could play Cleopatra, if Diana Ross can play Billie Holiday, if Denzel Washington can play Malcolm and Meryl Streep can play the Iron Lady…the

only thing I ask is to be given a chance to play Nina Simone.

And if at the end, you watch the movie and don’t like it, then OK, but at least you saw it.” Let us not forget that she played a non-human in Avatar and learned to speak a completely made up dialect.

The role was well researched. Saldana had access to many of Simone’s former band mates including Al Shackman, the legendary session guitarist for Atlantic Records who knew the singer when she was just 20 years old.

With two other movies coming out this year (Out of the Furnace, Blood Ties) and a video game (Star Trek), Saldana can’t afford many distractions, but there’s one that’s unavoidable.

For a family oriented girl in her mid-thirties, she’s thinking hard about the idea of having children. “I’m not the kind to ‘make a list, stick to the plan.’ The day that I wake up and I feel like its time for me to be a mother, whether there is somebody sleeping in the bed with me or not, I’m going to be a mother.

That’s just the way I was raised. I do what I want when I want it and as long as I don’t hurt anybody, I’m going to be OK.” She’s quick to point out that she has experience: an older sister, Mariel, has a daughter who Aunt Zoe takes to MOCA and LACMA (Saldana loves Rothko, but her niece prefers Baldessari and Basquiat). She also spends summers on location with her family wherever her work requires (when filming Colombiana in Paris, her mother, grandmother and niece all joined her for the month). “I really want [kids] in my life, but I want them to come when it’s time for me.”

For as far as she’s come since lacing up her point shoes in Center Stage, she never plans more than a week in advance. It leaves life open to so many more surprises. One is her new dog, Mugsy, a mutt she found last fall wandering the streets near Larchmont village. “I have a friend that calls me [Mugsy]. He says that I’m Mugsy from “DuckTales” because I live in my own little world. I’m unfazed. And my Mugsy is like that, too.”

Whatever other surprises lay ahead, she’s ready: “I’m not a person who regrets much in life. Trust me, I don’t regret anything. So, bring it.” •

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Miu Miu bra top, $765. Rochas skirt, $5,207, net-a-porter.com.

De Beers earrings, price upon request, and rings, $800 each. opposite Missoni dress, $2,315.

De Beers bracelet price upon request, and rings, $800-$4,000. special thanks to Atelier AM for providing the location for this story. atelieram.com.

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GRAND GESTURES

LAYERS OF GILDED BROCADE AND OPULENT BEADWORK AT THE DAWNRIDGE ESTATE PROVE MORE IS MORE THIS SEASON PHOTOGRAPHED BY WILLIAMS + HIRAKAWA

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Burberry Prorsum jacket, $4,495, swimsuit, $1,995, and wedges, $995. Eugenia Kim turban, $80.

David Webb brooch. Vhernier bar ring, $7,550. Elsa Peretti速 for Tiffany & Co. circle ring, $2,600.

David Webb carved ring.

FASHION EDITOR: SAMANTHA TRAINA

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Altuzarra dress, price upon request. Manolo Blahnik sandals, $695, Barneys New York. Jennifer Behr headband, $282. Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. earrings, $4,250.

Van Cleef & Arpels bracelets. oppoSiTe Dior dress. David Webb earrings. Hutton Wilkinson for Tony Duquette bracelet. Cartier ring, $5,800.

Turban, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own.

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Prada coat, $3,250, bra top, $495, shorts, $725, and necklace worn as headband, $2,295. Manolo Blahnik mules, $665. Hutton Wilkinson for Tony Duquette rings. oPPosiTe Vera Wang Collection top, $1,395.

Van Cleef & Arpels earrings. Repossi stack ring, $6,557, Barneys New York. David Yurman ring, $3,600.

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Valentino coat, $5,990.

Carolina Herrera shorts, price upon request.

Manolo Blahnik sandals, $695. Elsa Peretti速 for Tiffany & Co. necklace worn as headpiece, $8,200.

Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. brooch. Van Cleef & Arpels brooch.

David Webb ring. Bulgari coin ring $3,480. Cartier panther ring, $5,800.

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HAIR: TONY CHAVEZ FOR LEONOR GREYL AT TRACEY MATTINGLY. MAKEUP: KATHY JEUNG AT THE MAGNET AGENCY USING NARS. MANICURE: DEBBIE LEAVITT FOR CLOUTIER REMIX/SHESWAI LACQUER. MODEL: NATALIA BONIFACCI FOR FORD MODELS. ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR: ANNINA MISLIN. INTERNS: ERIK STAALBERG, JANUARY JONES AND COURTNEY ZUPANSKI. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, PAGE 145

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Roberto Cavalli dress, price upon request. Ralph Lauren Collection bolero, $3,998. Cartier earrings, price upon request.

Bulgari watch. David Yurman ring, $2,550. opposite Rodarte dress, and heels, prices upon request. Ralph Lauren Collection earrings, $795.

Hutton Wilkinson for tony Duquette ring. David Webb tiger ring, $6,500.

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HIDDEN GEM

Behind the massive wooden gates to Liv Ballardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beverly Hills retreat is a home as beguiling as its creative tenants

BY CHRISTINE LENNON PHOTOGRAPHED BY CORAL VON ZUMWALT

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Liv Ballard and her dog, Gracie, in the courtyard of her 1926 Roy Seldon Price home. OPPOSITE The pool and fountain are original to the property.

J

ewelry designer Liv Ballard is a woman of considerable charms. In fact, she is so enchanting that back in the late 1990s, when she and designer Annie Kelly were first furnishing Ballard’s Tichenor & Thorprestored 1926 house, the duo managed to talk Tony Duquette into relinquishing two of his cherished lanterns from a longneglected pagoda on his famous property, Dawnridge (see p.112).

“Tony was an inveterate collector. I don’t think he was made for de-acquisitioning!” says Ballard. “So we were delighted when he offered the Moroccan lanterns for my house. We did have to crawl around underneath one of the pavilions to find them. It was a little scary down there but worth the risk of a possible creature encounter.”

Even though the fiftysomething Mississippi native and mother of two, Basil and Mac Ballard, left her home state decades ago, she is still every bit the Southern belle, entertaining guests at her “Hispano-Moorish” home, she says, “whenever possible.”

Sixteen years on, the property continues to evolve. Ballard has acquired more exotic pieces on her travels across the globe.

Her two boys have grown into men under its roof, and Ballard and her music-producer husband have since parted ways.

“It feels lighter in here now,” she says with a wink, “A little brighter, maybe a little happier.”

When Ballard was determined to find her passion, she looked to her art background (she studied art at Ole Miss, where she and her former husband met, and literature in Paris before moving to Los Angeles) for cues. She began her search for a goldsmith and jeweler and eventually landed in Rome. Ballard first sold her designs in 2007 at Maxfield in Los Angeles and Caribou in Aspen. (Liv Ballard jewelry is also available on 1stdibs.com.)

In her line, hefty gold link necklaces and bracelets are weighted with impressive baubles, like a sapphire encrusted globe that spins on an axis, and a dragon coin inscribed with an imperious Latin saying (“she who conquers herself wins all”).

“Italian craftsmen take such pride in their work,” she says.

“Other people were telling me that what I wanted wasn’t possible, but they didn’t say no. You know, if a Medici prince asked an Italian jeweler to make a jeweled globe that spun on a chain, they were going to make that thing spin. There’s a long history of engineering there.”

Throughout her travels, Ballard has acquired an impressive art collection and an assortment of old Damascus bone inlay pieces. Slowly, she has added textiles as well, including floor cushions in Robert Kime fabric. Antique Indian saris on the walls were gifts from the late jewelry designer Devon Page McCleary. As Ballard layers colorful and disparate exotic elements, the house absorbs them. “I keep adding color and texture,” she says, “and the house just seems to keep asking for more.”

An ottoman upholstered with an antique prayer rug sits in front of a pair of French Gothic Revival chairs. A rattan chair upholstered in a bold Chinoiserie print shares a nook with a Mexican tiled bench. continued on page 144

A German Rococo mirror hangs above a 19th-century Indian bench. OPPOSITE, FROM TOP Gracie between the homeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s massive wooden gates. The Gryphons are by Seldon Price.

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clockwise from top in the master bedroom, linens are from Ya living. the butlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pantry. A custom daybed in the living room with robert kime floor cushions. A french Gothic table next to a mexican tile bench. Architects tichenor & thorp built the teahouse in the courtyard. A sapphire encrusted globe pendant from Ballardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection. the wine cellarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s intimate tasting room. in the breakfast nook, french encaustic tile and wrought iron details are original to the house.

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In the living room, Ballard mixes disparate exotic elements like an upholstered ottoman, an Indian bench, French Gothic chairs, Mexican tile and a Chinoiserie pattern on a chair.

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The beginnings of a design for an embroidered off-white tulle sleeveless jacket. OPPOSITE Silhouette for a silk bustier evening dress.

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of spring

Raf Simons fashions Christian Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Haute Couture presentation into a garden of earthly delights

By Genevieve BahrenBurG PhotoGraPhed By SoPhie Carre

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wanted to do a very self-explanatory collection this season,” confesses Christian Dior Artistic Director Raf Simons. “I wanted it to be literally about the season; to be about the very idea of spring.”

Simons’ triumphant translation employed the garden as a metaphor for rebirth, change and growth. “The clothing and the women reflect the passing of time, beginning as the signs of early life and blossoms from the winter ground to the full flower and blooming of midsummer,” says Simons.

This magnificent, multilayered Couture ensemble was Belgian designer Simons’ second for the storied French house. He succeeded in creating striking, innovative looks while simultaneously giving a respectful nod to Dior’s 67-year heritage. According to Simons, “There is a sense of the collection growing and changing from where we started with Couture last season. Yet still always with a sense of continuity and reality for the wearer.”

Before turning to fashion and founding his own menswear label in 1995, Simons, a progressive from Antwerp, began his career studying industrial and furniture design. His architectural ingenuity, honed from years of working on dexterously fusing form with function, is showcased in his celebrated attention to detail. In 2010, after spending six years at Jil Sander, turning out streamlined, modernist menswear, Simons began studying the female form and created the first of three fanciful, Couture-inspired collections. After John Galliano departed in April, 2012, two months following Simons’ last show at Jil Sander, the house announced that Simons had been tapped by Bernard Arnault’s LVMH to be Galliano’s successor and the artistic director of Dior.

For his first Couture collection for Dior, he invited California art world darling (and friend) Sterling Ruby to create a Surrealist watercolor print that was splattered across many of his ball gowns. This season the designer looked for a more timeless muse: the flower. In fact, Christian Dior himself was so taken by flowers (a fact Simons stumbled upon while reading the designer’s autobiography on a vacation in Puglia), that he named his first collection “La Ligne Corolle,” in reference to a bloom’s inner petals.

The Golden State also provided inspiration for this collection. Many of Simons’ gowns were tributes to flora and fauna indigenous to the state like the California poppy and the Douglas Iris.

The dynamic 46-piece continued on page 144

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Feature The atelier. Elaborate floral embroidery.

The back of an embroidered pale pink, silk and cotton ball dress. Detail of a dual-layer embroidered pale pink tulle bustier evening dress. Lace clipping. Pink embroidered lace and red frou bustier evening dress. Raf Simons. Skirt design for a lamĂŠ evening dress. OPPOSITE Embroidered tulle sleeveless jacket and embroidered black tulle bustier with beige silk pants.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

Lee Brooks in suede and furs, Santa Barbara, 1981. oppoSite Surreals Collection, Dinosaur Bird, 1999.

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SONS

Both vintage and new, Alex & Leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sought-after talismans are wrapped in California spirit

By Alison Clare Steingold

assemblages for a distant past and a distant future, which we coined the ‘ancient future.’”

L’enfant terrible of 1970s runways, Giorgio Sant’Angelo had his assistant call the couple to bring a collection to his showroom. “The boys made some BIG pieces to show him,” says Greg Franke, now partner and designer of the label with Brooks. The pieces informed the award-winning designer’s torn-and-tattered 1971 collection: Jane [of Tarzan] and Cinderella.

The N.Y.-based couple moved cross-country to Santa Barbara, then San Francisco, where they met up with John Johannsen, then the visual merchandising manager for the region’s Saks Fifth Avenues. An initial trunk show gave them entrée to S.F. society—and a long-running relationship with the department store. Alex & Lee and Kaisik Wong were at the top tier of the Art to Wear movement—high fashion transcending folk art—largely based at Obiko boutique. Run by the late Sandra Sakata, the retailer’s taste was hugely influential in legitimizing this look.

Any handful from the list of Alex & Lee collectors proves diverse: Ann Getty, Dodie Rosecrans, Elton John, Polly Mellon, Candice Bergen, Cher, Erté, Joan Baez, Vincent Price, Danielle Steele, Raquel Welch, Nancy Pelosi. Most intriguing, perhaps, is Salvador Dalí. In 1974, Wong brought an item with him upon a visit to the Surrealist, and Alex & Lee was commissioned to create 30 pieces for opening of Dalí’s Theatre-Museum in Spain (eight of the pieces are still on view). The pair remained in Europe for two years, hanging out with Dalí and the likes of Liza Minelli and Omar Sharif, making chrysalis collars for Fantastic Realist Ernst Fuchs’ Parisian vernissage. On the cusp of the 1980s, editorial pieces for Vogue, Harper’s, Geoffrey Beene (1980) and Oscar de la Renta (1981) would follow, as would the final COTY and inaugural CFDA awards.

Unfortunately, Maté passed away in 1992 of AIDS. It seemed Brooks would retire his jewelry making, having lost his partner.

But in 1995, Brooks met Greg Franke, a former hair stylist with a degree in craft design and a background in weaving and jewelry.

He had skills similar to Maté but a style all his own. “I’m having a dialogue between my hands and the material, each cord a different personality,” says Franke. “[Lee] is starting with a particular element he picks up because of the color that works with the cording. Once that piece is in place, his eye moves to a different area.

Lee loves the chaos of it all; I like the continued on page 144

Lee loves the chaos of it all, and I like the rhythm, the order of it. He has a great sense of balance. That’s rare to achieve in such dramatic asymmetry.

—GreG Franke

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archival image on previous page: pamela perry. retrospective photo: drew altizer. all photos courtesy oF aleX & lee

t

he year was 1970. Alex Maté and Lee Brooks were strolling the Fire Island shoreline when a woman remarked on the unusual beauty of Maté’s necklace—one he’d crafted for himself out of sea-drift miscellany collected during those walks.

The inseparable young couple—a Spaniard by way of Brazil and a Bakersfield native— would soon learn this admirer was Gwen Mazer, accessories editor at Harper’s Bazaar.

“The jewelry Alex was wearing was so of the moment—very organic with a mix of seashells, stones and silk cords in tie-dye, very haute hippie,” explains Mazer. “You could mix their jewelry with a rope of real pearls, coral and other trinkets, and it all flowed together.” She commissioned 20 items for her then-forthcoming boutique. “With our caftans styled after Indian kurtas, along with imports from Afghanistan, Turkey, and accessories from France, [it] fit perfectly,” she adds. A brand was born.

The Alex & Lee aesthetic took shape, albeit a free-form one, during this period: necklaces with global, primitive and aboriginal ornamentation; styles like African collars, Egyptian motifs and winged scarabs. Feathers, fiber and minerals formed dramatic union. Maté did passementerie—cording, hand-dying, woven metals, ombré; Lee collaged, placed and finished. Brooks describes them best: “dream-like multimedia

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LFET

Necklaces for Emily Factor, 2012. Brooks, Donyale Luna and Maté, S.F., 1976. Giorgio Sant’Angelo show, 1970.

Salvador Dalí at his TheatreMuseum, Spain, 1974. Maté, Seena Fang, Obiko, S.F., 1973. Proenza Schouler Resort wearing the Iguana Pup, 2012.

Fish, 1997, and Mayan Lapis, 1984, designs.

Cavalier retrospective, S.F., 2012.

OPPOSITE Alex Maté and Lee Brooks, Santa Barbara, 1981.

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A sconce of crystal flowers and gilded leaves, designed by Philip Nimmo and made by Jean de Merry.

OPPOSITE Gold-dipped faucets from P.E. Guerin complement Jean de Merry custom antique glass vanities.

Smoky topaz and crystal sconces from Boyd Lighting, via Donghia; custom Stark carpet.

VANITY RENÉE IN FAIR REPOSE

Dripping in crystals, swathed in hand-painted A Hollywood icon of her generation, Winonawallpaper Ryder findsand accented liberally withduring gold leaf, a Philipin Nimmo designed herself most at peace downtime her native San “closet retreat” is one Bakersfield doyenne’s dream come true

BY HEATHER JOHN FOGARTY PHOTOGRAPHED

BY ROGER DAVIES Management

By Heather John Fogarty Photographed

by Roger Davies/Atelier

ROGER DAVIES/ATELIER MANAGEMENT

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In the boudoir sitting room, quilted Nancy Corzine sofas with custom mirror-covered legs and Groves Brothers pillows, flanked by Denis & Leen tables; gilded chairs by Ann Getty; P.E. Geurin coffee table furnished with antique silver legs; crystal spheres from Pegaso Gallery; and a tall Daum sculpture from Neiman Marcus.

A Paul Ferrante chandelier hovers above Aaron Shiklerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Study for the White House Portrait of Jacqueline Kennedy, in the Paul Montgomery custom wallpapered room.

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Structured boxwoods and antique French and Italian urns in the formal gardens by landscape architect Robert Truxell of Fresno.

TOP A Gearys silver punch bowl and Judith Leiber alligator evening bags atop a Baccarat table. The three-way mirror conceals more closet space. An Ann Getty custom chair. Paul Ferrante chandelier.

OPPOSITE In the ladies powder room, silk velvet loveseats from Nancy Corzine with Gary Hutton end tables frame an Erika Brunson twig table topped with an antique mirror.

any women dream of adding more closet space, but few of us dare to imagine a 2,500-squarefoot orangerie of antique glass vanities, gilded chandeliers and hand-painted silk wallpaper to serve as a backdrop for Couture dresses, evening bags and treasured works of art.

“My mother had a beautiful garden, and it was always an inspiration,” says Diane Lake, a Bakersfield native whose family was in the oil business. Lake has lived in her Bakersfield ranch-style home since her late husband built it for her in 1959. “I spent a lot of time in the early years on the house,” she says, but she had always dreamed of having her own formal French garden and a larger closet.

When the neighboring property came up for sale in 2008, she bought it the next day and called Los Angeles interior designer Philip Nimmo to help her create an expansive “closet retreat” and to extend the gardens.

Nimmo and Lake worked with landscape architect Robert Truxell to create lush, European-style grounds with structured boxwoods, antique French urns and Italian sculptural pieces. Much like a formal French parterre, the closet itself is like an enchanted garden— a labyrinth of curated spaces that Nimmo designed for contemplation and relaxation. Throughout the closet rooms, the custom Stark carpets and Paul Montgomery hand-painted floral wallpaper in Lake’s signature teal— or what Nimmo affectionately calls “Lake blue”—as well as her collection of early 19th-century French Impressionist landscapes, lend a floral femininity that blends seamlessly with her love of Parisian furniture and fashion.

“Mrs. Lake loves old world, but also that old Hollywood glamour—that feeling of mystery with glass and reflections,” Nimmo says. He softened the space using antique mirrored and crystal surfaces, such as the custom Jean de Merry vanities in the ladies powder room, covered in bent antique glass with mirrored baguette backsplashes, and the Baccarat crystal table in the main closet showcasing Lake’s collection of Judith Leiber alligator evening bags. In the perfume room, glass shelves with silver overlay hold some 75 bottles that Lake has found while searching antiques stores from La Jolla to the Right Bank over several decades.

In addition to the dozens of Manolo Blahniks and Bill Blass Couture frocks in the closet, the heart of Lake’s collection is art. In the closet’s sitting room, a treasured watercolor and continued on page 144

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The perfume room’s Pop art portrait of Marie Antoinette by Rimi Yang hangs beside an Ann Getty shell chair and a Jean de Merry back-painted vanity showcasing bottles that she’s been collecting for decades—many of which she found at Gearys and John J. Nelson in L.A., and Bergdorf Goodman in N.Y. OPPOSITE Drawings by Manolo Blahnik flank dozens of the designer’s (among others) shoes and boots; “Karina” chandelier, Nancy Corzine ottoman and Ann Getty chair; a dress form features one of Lake’s antique evening bags, from Neiman Marcus.

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turning focus continued from page 104

for the past 20 years, calls those endeavors “tender and proud at the same time.” Her selfportraits, more aggressive, have also made a profound impact. One shows Opie, blindfolded, pierced by 46 18-gauge needles with the word pervert cut across her breasts. In another, a house and two children are carved into her back. The most recent, the 2004 Self Portrait/ Nursing, shows Opie naked, breastfeeding her son, Oliver, with the word pervert now faded.

Many of these polemic portraits explore identity and community. High-profile figures make appearances—K.D. Lang, Jenny Shimizu, swimmer Diana Nyad—but there are also the unsung heroes: high school football players trying on their newfound manhood; lesbian couples at home with their children; shopkeepers in South Central standing in front of their wares.

“I’m not interested in being a singular identity,” she says. “I’m just not.” She collaborated with fashion label Rodarte and Alec Soth on a book; documented rural Minnesota and the wedding-cake-like exteriors of Angeleno homes.

“Her range is astonishing,” says Regen. “And she’s making some of the most painterly photographs I’ve ever seen.”

After coffee in Opie’s kitchen we drive to the new Michael Maltzan-designed gallery at Regen Projects in Hollywood, where her latest show signals a coming of age. “I was going back to what inspired me from the early days,” explains Opie.

This time, she creeps out of her own paradigm.

Gone are the bright, seamless backgrounds, but the formality of 15th-century painting lingers.

Some portraits are housed in sweet, cameo-style frames, making the relentless black of the backgrounds lose some of its edginess. Abstract shapes from natural parks are interspersed between the portraits; the forms are wispy, ephemeral. Jonathan Franzen hunches over a War and Peace, practically seething with his legendary grumpiness. Laura Mulleavy whispers in her sister Kate’s ears, the shape of the two figures reminiscent of a Botticelli painting. “They finish each other’s sentences. It’s almost a symbiotic relationship,” says Opie as she walks through the space. Blood drips from Opie’s trainer’s hand in another portrait. “Blood is no longer about identity within a specific community; it’s simply a substance of the body,” she adds. The people she chooses to capture are still from all walks of life, but there is a unifying characteristic: They are, quite simply, loving. “I’ve mellowed,” the artist says. “I decided to go maternal,” says Opie. “I feel secure doing that.” •

hidden gem continued from page 124

“All of the tile, the Mexican tile which you’ll see on each of the stairs, and the French encaustic tile in the breakfast nook, is original,” says Ballard. “If you look closely you’ll see that no two patterns on the Mexican tile are alike.”

Known as the “Chimorro House” by Tichenor & Thorp, the home was built during Prohibition by noted architect Roy Seldon Price. Price also

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designed the landmark L.A. building (formerly owned by Charlie Chaplin) that housed the La Brea Avenue restaurant Campanile.

“All I know is that it was built for a single woman, Mrs. Chimorro, which was highly unusual at the time—and was clearly used as a speakeasy,” says Ballard.

Today, the generous public rooms, the light-filled bedrooms on the second floor and the many outdoor spaces—including a tea house, and a serene turquoise pool—host less illicit social gatherings. They provide an airy, comfortable space for Ballard and her sons to work and play.

“My boys loved growing up here so much.

There was always a fun place to hide,” she says. “And they’re both still in school, so they’re still living here with me. I guess they just aren’t ready to leave.”

It’s easy to see why. •

vanity fair continued from page 141

and yet all expertly tended to and under control,” says Simons.

A heart-stopping formation of exotic wildflower-inspired gowns followed in a blur of gazar, organza, layered tulle, intricate floral appliqué and elegant beading. The ultra feminine collection, “eventually builds to the full flower of the balloon-backed dresses,” says Simons, “whose careful construction belies a seemingly organic shape, with all ultimately controlled by the supreme craft of the atelier.” The ‘supreme craft of the atelier’ is perhaps best exemplified by the care and attention to detail with which each look is fashioned. Simons begins his work on the Haute Couture collection in October, three months before he debuts it on the runway, and his couture ateliers (both frou and tailleur) employ 100 people to create the looks.

As Rudyard Kipling famously said, “Gardens are not made by singing ‘Oh, how beautiful!’ and sitting in the shade.” As is the gardener, so is the garden. •

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gouache on paper, Study for the White House Portrait of Jacqueline Kennedy by Aaron Shikler, rests on an easel. Lake first saw a photograph of the painting in 1969, in a story about Shikler’s portraits for the White House in McCall’s magazine. “I still have that copy of McCall’s,” says Lake, who counts Jackie Kennedy as one of her greatest style influences. When the portrait came up for sale at Sotheby’s in 1996, Lake flew to New York and won it at auction for $178,000. A decade later, she purchased another Shikler portrait of Jackie Kennedy. She has since become friends with the artist. “It was a friendship that was 40 years in the making,” she adds.

But perhaps the pièce de résistance of Lake’s collection is a floor-to-ceiling Pop art portrait of Marie Antoinette by Rimi Yang. Following its acquisition, Lake commissioned portraits of the Beatles for her grandson and a painting of Audrey Hepburn for her granddaughter, who will be married in Lake’s garden later this summer. “Our daughter was married in my mother’s garden and I loved that,” Lake recalls. “To have her daughter, my granddaughter’s wedding in this garden, it’s truly something special.” •

rites of spring continued from page 132

collection began with diaphanous silhouettes, in muted wisteria and lilac, reminiscent of bulbs shooting out from winter’s cold earth. Parades of sharply tailored suits as sleek as a Mapplethorpe orchid stem were followed by more fluid, organic shapes in unexpected chromatic combinations. One exquisite blossom after another bloomed through complex embroidery and exuberant hues of geranium, marigold, gardenia, tiger lily and chrysanthemum. The collection crescendoed with a billowing zinnia shawl draped over a cream bustier, emblazoned with a brilliant bouquet and anchored by tapered cigarette pants. “Silhouettes are in flux this season, seemingly finding their own forms naturally,

rhythm, the order of it. That’s rare to achieve in such dramatic asymmetry.”

Brooks and Franke relocated to a wonderland-like home/studio in The Sea Ranch, in remote Sonoma County. Found objects are everywhere: Brooks’ beach flotsam from the 1970s, Parisian flea market treasures, fossils, pearls, whole walls of trays and tool drawers overflowing with sparkling specimens. Their affinity for editorial led them to accessories for Alexis Bittar in 2003; and crystal-encrusted jewelry to complement L.A. designer Emily Factor’s spring, 2011, collection. Another fashion duo, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, asked Brooks, now 72, and Franke, 61, to craft necklaces to accent the Resort 2012 lookbook. From this particular venture came revived interest and new fans.

Not too long ago, Michael Purdy, who runs S.F. design store Cavalier with interior designer Jay Jeffers, visited the couple at home. “I saw the [1981] CFDA and [1980] COTY awards in the entryway, surrounded by tapestries...I’d never really seen anything like it before. Lee began pulling out piece after piece, every one I loved more than the next. Then the scarves, then the brooches. It was overwhelming.”

Together with Margaret Sche, they cocurated a retrospective at Cavalier last fall.

As each catalogued item was considered for the exhibition, Brooks reworked vintage designs and, with Franke, introduced fresh ones. Rorschach collages from 40 years ago have become enormous scarves. They made bracelets—smaller, accessible to a wider set.

Home goods are next, including pillows and wallpaper.

No matter its age, an Alex & Lee original is distinctive. Adds Purdy, “At first, women might say, ‘Wow, that’s a lot going on. Might be too much for me.’ I say, ‘Put it on. I want you to feel it.’ The pieces really ground you and make you feel strong and confident. At the end of the night, women don’t want to take them off.” •

ON OUR COVER Bottega Veneta multicolor Platre light jersey dress, $14,000, Bottega Veneta, B.H., 310-858-6533; bottegaveneta.com. De Beers round brilliant-cut diamond Aura stud earrings, price upon request, and diamond Paris Prong bracelet, price upon request, De Beers, South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 800-929-0889; debeers.com.

TaBLE OF CONTENTS p.18 Salvatore Ferragamo white leather and lace dress, $6,100, select Salvatore Ferragamo stores, 866-337-7242. De Beers diamond Classic stud earrings, price upon request, De Beers, South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 800-929-0889; debeers.com.

Harry Winston diamond Caftan fashion ring, price upon request, Harry Winston, B.H., 310-271-8554.

FOUNDER’S LETTER p.22 Sonya wears Monique Lhuillier seafoam lace asymmetrical gown with draped tulle overlay, $5,290, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900; ink koi print silk faille strapless dress, $2,690, and ink slim leather belt, $230, Monique Lhuillier, L.A., 323-655-1088. Harry Winston diamond Shinde earrings, price upon request, Harry Winston, B.H., 310-271-8554. Saldana’s look, see p.106-107.

C WHaT’S HOT C GIRL p.40 Valentino black-and-white blouse, $1,390, black slip, $1,990, and embellished black A-line skirt, $5,990, Valentino, B.H., 310-247-0103.

C FaSHION SNaKE CHaRmERS p.49 CLOCKWISE FROm TOP LEFT Bulgari pink gold and pavé diamond Serpenti bracelet, $48,700, Bulgari, B.H., 310-858-9216.

Van Cleef & Arpels Thetis necklace from L’Atlantide collection, featuring round diamonds and round emerald gradation set in white gold, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161. David Webb snake brooch featuring yellow gold, platinum, diamonds and emeralds, price upon request, David Webb, B.H., 310-858-8006. Asprey tsavorite bangle with diamond eyes in yellow gold, Asprey at the Beverly Hills Hotel, 310-550-0520. Neil Lane Art Deco Burmese ruby diamond and platinum snake ring, $72,000, Neil Lane, B.H., 310-275-5015. David Webb snake ring featuring yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, rubies and green enamel, price upon request, David Webb, B.H., 310-858-8006. Gray Gallery yellow Gold Snake bracelet, $4,840, Gray Gallery, L.A., 310-854-0091; graygallery.com. HIGH CONTRaST p.58 CLOCKWISE FROm TOP LEFT Prada black-and-white embellished necklace, $2,250, select Prada stores, prada.com. Kate Spade Saturday zig-zag iPhone 5 case, $25, saturday.com.

Michael Kors optic white color-blocked sandals, $690, Michael Kors, B.H., 310-777-8862. Aldo black-and-white Ferratt scarf, $25, Aldo, Beverly Center, L.A., 310-657-4959. Marc by Marc Jacobs black-and-white Werdie Weavy Isabelle bag, $188, Marc by Marc Jacobs, L.A., 323-866-3562. Oscar de la Renta black and crystal costume jewelry earrings, $290, oscardelarenta.com. Emporio Armani sandals with ankle strap, $570, armani.com. Proenza Schouler black-and-white shiny calf leather Record bag, $1,575, proenzaschouler.com. Bottega Veneta enameled Antique silver ring, $620, select Bottega Veneta stores, 212-371-5511; bottegaveneta.com.

Etro braided leather sandals, $680, Etro, B.H., 310-248-2855. Tod’s black-and-white reversed silk loafers, $465, Tod’s, B.H., 310-285-0591. Balenciaga black leather and off-white Canvas Edition Cabas bag, $795, A’maree’s, N.B., 949-644-4423. Louis Vuitton satin and sequin Damier Optic envelope clutch, $4,250, select Louis Vuitton stores,

866-884-8866; louisvuitton.com. JEWELRy BOX p.60 David Yurman limited-edition Cable wrap pendant necklace with morganite and diamonds, price upon request, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. Vhernier earrings with rock crystal, mother of pearl siderite and diamonds in white gold, $19,000, Vhernier, B.H., 310-276-7200.

Harry Winston white and pink diamond earrings, price upon request, Harry Winston, B.H., 310-271-8554. De Beers white and pink gold Swan Lake earrings, price upon request, De Beers, South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 800-929-0889; debeers.com. de Grisogono pink sapphire and pink gold ring, $24,200, degrisogono.com. H.Stern gold with rose quartz and diamond Spring Avignon earrings, $3,000, Saks Fifth Avenue, B.H., 310-275-4211.

Graff emerald-cut diamond ring, set on a pink diamond pavé band, price upon request, Graff, S.F., 415-926-7000; graffdiamonds.com. Chanel ceramic and titanium J12 Chromatic watch featuring diamonds and rose poudre dial, $19,370, select Chanel Fine Jewelry stores, 800-550-0005. Jacob & Co. pink diamond solitaire ring, featuring light pink pear shape diamond with pavé and white diamonds in platinum and rose gold, price upon request, Westime Sunset, L.A., 310-289-0808; jacobandco.com. Cartier Flamingo brooch featuring platinum, sapphires, mother-of-pearl brooch, price upon request, Cartier, B.H., 310-275-4272.

GOOD GRaCES p.106-107 Valentino white lace gown with black dandelion print, $7,990, Valentino, B.H., 310-247-0103. De Beers earrings, see Table of Contents. De Beers white gold and diamond Petal band ring, $800, De Beers, South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 800-929-0889; debeers.com. p.108 Salvatore Ferragamo white leather and lace dress, $6,100, select Salvatore Ferragamo stores, 866-337-7242.

De Beers earrings, see Table of Contents. p.110 Miu Miu silk satin bra top, $765, select Miu Miu stores, miumiu.com. Rochas ivory silk chiffon plissé soleil skirt, $5,207, net-a-porter.com. De Beers earrings, see Cover. De Beers rings (from left) Azulea band in white gold and band ring in black gold, $800 each, white gold Petal band ring, $800, De Beers, South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 800-929-0889; debeers.com. p.111 Missoni silk blend overlay white dress, $2,315, select Missoni stores, missoni.com. De Beers earrings, see p.110. De Beers rings (from top left) diamond Adonis Rose band ring, $4,000, single Aura white diamond band ring, $2,000, Azulea band rings in white gold and black gold, $800 each, white gold Petal band ring, $800, and Adonis Rose diamond Line bracelet, $25,000, De Beers, South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 800-929-0889; debeers.com.

GRaND GESTURES p.112-113 Burberry Prorsum chalk yellow metallic corset plissé jacket, $4,495, chalk yellow metallic tretch-crepe plissé swimsuit, $1,995, and iris yellow wedges, $995, burberry.com. Eugenia Kim ivory silk jersey Chiara turban, $80, Diani, S.B., 805-966-6116. David Webb azurite, diamond and ruby beetle brooch, $33,000, David Webb, B.H., 310-858-8006. Vhernier pink gold Onda Grande ring in lapis, $7,550, Vhernier, B.H., 310-273-2444. Elsa Peretti® for Tiffany & Co. gold with lapis lazuli ring, $2,600, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310-273-8880. David Webb carved lapis, diamond and green enamel ring, $19,000, David Webb, B.H., 310-858-8006. p.114 Dior tulle black and sequin dress, $23,000, select Dior stores, 800-929-3467. David Webb textured yellow gold hoop earrings, $17,500, David Webb, B.H., 310-858-8006. Hutton Wilkinson for Tony Duquette sphene and peridot bracelet, $86,700, 310-271-4688; tonyduquette.com. Cartier Panthère de Cartier yellow gold, tsavorite garnet, and black lacquer

ring, $5,800, Cartier, B.H., 310-275-4272. Turban, stylist’s own. p.115 Altuzarra fully embroidered draped Zarine dress with Swarovski elements, price upon request, altuzarra.com. Eugina Kim turban, see p.113.

Manolo Blahnik gold Chaos sandals, $695, Barneys New York, B.H., 310-276-4400. Jennifer Behr headband with vintage brass stampings and Swarovski pearls, $282, jenniferbehr.com. Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. yellow gold Umbrella earrings with blue enamel, $4,250, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310-273-8880. Van Cleef & Arpels 1972 Estate bracelets from the Heritage collection, featuring round diamonds set in yellow and white gold, $80,000 each, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161. p.116 Prada dark-green patchwork flower detail coat, $3,250, black bra top, $495, brief shorts, $725, and circle embellished necklace worn as headband, $2,295, select Prada stores, prada.com.

Manolo Blahnik black suede Carolynemu mules, $665, available upon special order, Manolo Blahnik, N.Y., 212-582-3007. Hutton Wilkinson for Tony Duquette carved jade and diamond ring, $56,000, and carved emerald, mother of pearl and yellow sapphire ring, $25,000, 310-271-4688; tonyduquette.com. p.117 Vera Wang Collection gold Tulip top with jeweled collar, $1,395, verawang.com. Van Cleef & Arpels earrings from the Perlée collection featuring one row of round diamonds set in pink gold, $19,900, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161. Repossi rose gold Berbère ring, $6,557, Barneys New York, B.H., 310-276-4400.

David Yurman sculpted gold Cable ring, $3,600, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. p.118-119 Valentino green and gold brocade coat, $5,990, Valentino, B.H., 310-247-0103. Carolina Herrera ornate jacquard A-line shorts, price upon request, Carolina Herrera, L.A., 323-782-9090. Manolo Blahnik sandals, see p.115.

Elsa Peretti® for Tiffany & Co. mesh necklace in gold worn as headpiece, $8,200, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310-273-8880. Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Paris Flames brooch in platinum and with diamonds, $14,000, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310-273-8880. Van Cleef & Arpels 1955 Estate Cravate Jersey brooch from the Heritage collection featuring round diamonds set in yellow gold, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-276-1161.

David Webb textured yellow gold dome ring, $12,800, David Webb, B.H., 310-858-8006. Bulgari yellow gold and silver Monete Antiche coin ring, $3,480, Bulgari, B.H., 310-858-9216. Cartier ring, see p.114. p.120 Rodarte woven green-and-black jacquard leather fringe strapless dress, green-and-black mixed material upper with gray and white computer cut graphic heels, prices upon request, rodarte.net. Ralph Lauren Collection black ornate earrings, $795, select Ralph Lauren Collection stores, ralphlaurencollection.com. Hutton Wilkinson for Tony Duquette black obsidian and diamond ring, $46,000, 310-271-4688; tonyduquette. com. David Webb gold tiger ring with emerald eyes, $6,500, David Webb, B.H., 310-858-8006. p.121 Roberto Cavalli black embroidered dress, price upon request, Roberto Cavalli, B.H., 310-276-6006. Ralph Lauren Collection gold beaded bolero, $3,998, select Ralph Lauren Collection stores, ralphlaurencollection.com.

Cartier platinum, pearl, onyx, and diamond tassel earrings, price upon request, Cartier, B.H., 310-275-4272. Bulgari pink gold and diamond Serpenti Scaglie watch with black sapphire crystal, and black enamel, Bulgari, B.H., 310-858-9216.

David Yurman black onyx Wheaton ring, $2,550, David Yurman, B.H., 310-888-8618. •

CORRECTIONS April 2013 Issue In C The Menu, “Beach Revival” (p.78), the proper spelling of the executive chef’s name at Michael’s Santa Monica is John-Carlos Kuramoto.

In “Original Beauty” (p.102), the proper spelling of John McIlwee and Rick Shephard’s firm is Shephard McIlwee.

C Magazine May 2013 Volume 8/Number 8 is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310-393-3800, Fax 310-393-3899, E-mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 460248, Escondido, CA 92046. Subscriptions Telephone 800-775-3066 or E-mail: cmagcustomerservice@pcspublink.com. Domestic rates are $24 for one year (12 issues); for orders outside U.S., add $15 postage. Single copies available at newsstands and other magazine outlets throughout the United States.

may 2013

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california

story byline

after traveling across the country with her mother, 24-year-old Bette davis stepped off the train in Hollywood and was surprised that no one from Universal studios was waiting to greet her. the assistant had left, saying he hadn’t seen anyone that looked like an actress. she didn’t exactly hit the ground running: after nine months and six unsuccessful films, davis was dropped from Universal. in 1932, she got her big break when Warner Brothers cast the doe-eyed yankee in The Man Who Played God. davis went on to star in more than 100 films, win two academy awards and marry four times. she’s remembered as one of cinema’s greatest talents, a combative perfectionist with a sharp tongue, or, as she would have told you, “i’m the nicest goddamn dame that ever lived.”

PhotograPh by elmer Fryer

C 146 may 2013

text by kelsey mckinnon

ElmEr FryEr/mptvimagEs.com

Bette davis, 1932

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