C California Style & Culture

Fall 2022

Cover Inside Yves Béhar’s Self-Made Sanctuary

FALL FANTASY Alexis Mabille: From Couture to Caviar

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DREE HEMINGWAY Hollywood’s Most Fashionable Star

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STATEMENTS Sherri McMullen marks her Oakland boutique’s quindecennial.................... 43

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LACMA’s latest exhibit pays tribute to advertising’s golden age....................... 48 Introducing Loro Piana’s cozy new Cashfur accessories......................................... 50 What will you wear in the metaverse?.................................................................................... 54

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FEATURES Out-of-this-world fashions descend on the Mojave Desert..... 74

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Louis Vuitton saunters into San Diego’s Salk Institute................ 86

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Dree Hemingway is on her way to Hollywood stardom............ 90 Yves Béhar’s self-designed San Francisco compound.................. 106 Alexis Mabille turns his hand to Caviar Kaspia in L.A.................. 116

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DISCOVERIES L.A.’s new members-only super gym lands on La Brea............... 121

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The potions and products to carry you through fall...................... 123 Kate Hudson’s self-care go-tos........................................................................ 129

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EXCLUSIVE The actor/model on the cultural moments and style icons that influenced her childhood

FASHION NEWS Our Golden State take on the season’s hottest styles

TOC DECOR & DESIGN

WHY DREE HEMINGWAY LOVES THE ’90s

The latest openings and where to find your inspiration

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PROFI LES

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DREE HEMINGWAY: CURTIS BUCHANAN. FASHION NEWS: MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION. DECOR & DESIGN: SARA PRINCE. TRAVEL: BUNGALOWS BY HOMESTEAD MODERN. WEDDINGS: JOSE VILLA. PROFILES: WE ARE THE RHOADS.

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Contributing Editors Caroline Cagney, Elizabeth Khuri Chandler, Kendall Conrad, Danielle DiMeglio, Nandita Khanna, Stephanie Rafanelli, Diane Dorrans Saeks, Stephanie Steinman, Nathan Turner Contributing Writers Max Berlinger, Catherine Bigelow, Christina Binkley, Samantha Brooks, Alessandra Codinha, Kerstin Czarra, Peter Davis, Helena de Bertodano, Rob Haskell, Martha Hayes, Marshall Heyman, David Hochman, Christine Lennon, Ira Madison III, Martha McCully, David Nash, Jessica Ritz, Dan Rookwood, S. Irene Virbila, Chris Wallace Contributing Photographers Guy Aroch, David Cameron, Mark Griffin Champion, Gia Coppola, Victor Demarchelier, Amanda Demme, Michelangelo Di Battista, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Sam Frost, Adrian Gaut, Beau Grealy, Zoey Grossman, Pamela Hanson, Rainer Hosch, Kurt Iswarienko, Danielle Levitt, Kurt Markus, Blair Getz Mezibov, Lee Morgan, Ben Morris, Pia Riverola, David Roemer, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jack Waterlot, Jan Welters Contributing Fashion Directors Chris Campbell, Petra Flannery, Maryam Malakpour, Katie Mossman, Samantha Traina

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F O U N D E R’S

L E T T E R

EDITORS’ PICKS This month’s wish list

DIOR D-Trap corset belt, price upon request, dior.com.

“What’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” —William Shakespeare

JENNIFER SMITH Founder, Editorial Director and CEO

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PRADA Shoes, price upon request, prada.com.

Founder’s Note BULGARI Serpenti Seduttori watch, $11,600, bulgari.com.

ON THE COVER

Photography by CURTIS BUCHANAN. Fashion Direction by PETRA FLANNERY. Hair by HOLLY MILLS at The Wall Group.

Makeup by GINA BROOKE at The Wall Group.

Manicure by EMI KUDO at Opus Beauty using Dior Vernis.

DREE HEMINGWAY wears MIU MIU dress, POMELLATO earrings (on left ear) and CARTIER ring.

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ILLUSTRATION: DAVID DOWNTON.

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hen it came time to name this publication 17 years ago upon the Fall issue, I thought long and hard before I decided C would encapsulate everything we wanted to celebrate about the great state of California. It would be directional in a way, like come see what we are writing about; it could also nod to the sea (the coastal atmosphere that continually inspires us). And it was a bit casual, as a nickname, like how some people would call me “J” instead of my given name of Jennifer. All this to say, a name can mean so much but does not necessarily define you.

Take our cover subject, actor Dree Hemingway. Great-granddaughter of Ernest, daughter of Mariel, she has a surname that’s a heavy burden to carry, laden with expectation. And yet she does it effortlessly. With deep respect for her literary and cinematic lineage, she’s moving forward with creating her own legacy, first in fashion and then in Hollywood. We know there are big things ahead for her, including her upcoming nuptials.

San Francisco power couple Yves Béhar and Sabrina Buell are always thinking ahead of the curve. We get a glimpse inside their family home to see what they hold near and dear, taking in the boundary-pushing design (what Yves is known for) and engaging art (Sabrina’s specialty).

It is a powerful combination that creates sparks around the pair’s great California love story.

Historically, West Coasters tend to be forward thinkers, so with that in mind, our fall fashion portfolio comes with a futuristic viewpoint. Set in the western reaches of the Mojave Desert, surrounded by boulders and Joshua trees, I can’t think of a more otherworldly landscape for outof-this-world fashion. Add in a story on the metaverse, upcoming new restaurants that will have waiting lists for days, store debuts and a culture scene that is on fire, and you have an issue full of many things to C. Get out there and enjoy the best of this moment in this Golden State.

Tag Heuer

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ELIZABETH VARNELL CURTIS BUCHANAN Los Angeles-based photographer Curtis Buchanan has previously lent his talent to brands including Revlon, The Elder Statesman, Re/Done and Garrett Leight, and publications including Vanity Fair. For this issue, he focused his lens on our cover subject, Dree Hemingway, for “Dree’s Day,” p.90. MY C SPOTS • The Smoke House Restaurant in Burbank for good vibes and even better cheese bread • The Dresden Room is an L.A. classic—RIP Marty • Weddington Golf & Tennis in Studio City for fun rounds of non-serious golf

Born and raised in Los Angeles, Elizabeth Varnell has spent the past two decades interviewing creatives and writing features for Vogue, Surface, San Francisco magazine and C on everything from fine art to health and wellness to Riccardo Tisci’s Bambi ears. She chronicled Nicolas Ghesquière’s sunlight-drenched Louis Vuitton show at La Jolla’s Salk Institute for this issue’s feature “Beauty Behind the Brutalism,” p.86. MY C SPOTS • The Nest in Ojai for salmon tacos • Hiking Yosemite’s Mist Trail • The always-changing archival room at Dries Van Noten in L.A.

CHRISTIAN ANWANDER

GINA BROOKE

Virgil Abloh, Zoë Kravitz, Nicki Minaj and Evan Rachel Wood are just some of the A-list subjects that Christian Anwander has shot over his nearly 20-year career.

The New York- and Austria-based lensman—whose work has been featured in Elle, Numero, Vogue and Flaunt—photographed our fall fashion portfolio, “Space Odyssey,” p.74. MY C SPOTS • Drinks at the Tower Bar at West Hollywood’s Sunset Tower Hotel • Any weed dispensary • The Griffith Observatory in L.A.

Gina Brooke is the beauty expert behind Dree Hemingway’s understated visage in our cover story, “Dree’s Day,” p.90. The Santa Barbara- and Los Angelesbased makeup artist’s portfolio ranges from the red carpet looks of Cate Blanchett and Anne Hathaway to campaigns for Giorgio Armani and Lanvin to editorials for Vogue Italia and Santa Barbara Magazine. MY C SPOTS • The Well Summerland is a home and garden utopia • San Ysidro Ranch in Montecito to decompress • Forage Florals in Santa Ynez is my go-to for beautiful arrangements

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CURTIS: MAGNUS UNNAR. GINA: ELIZABETH MESSINA.

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SHERRI McMULLEN, wearing CECILIE BAHNSEN, at her eponymous Oakland flagship boutique.

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KELLY ATTERTON ANDREW BARKER ANUSH J. BENLIYAN

Bay Area luxury retail heroine Sherri McMullen celebrates her boutique’s 15th anniversary with grand plans

MAX BERLINGER LESLEY McKENZIE

BFA, MCMULLEN TEAM

DAVID NASH JESSICA RITZ REBECCA RUSSELL ELIZABETH VARNELL

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ver the last 15 years, Sherri McMullen has set the bar for luxury retail, introducing dozens of up-andcoming fashion designers and emerging brands to an entirely new—and incredibly discerning— clientele across California and beyond.

But perhaps what’s more interesting than what she does, is knowing that it’s all done from her eponymous boutique in Oakland. “In 2007 when I opened, there was a void throughout the industry for what we now call ‘advanced contemporary,’” she says. “There were always places for contemporary and designer brands, but I entered the market and started supporting young designers early on—that’s the part of the business I’m really most passionate about.”

Culling from CFDA award-winner Christopher John Rogers and Catherine Holstein’s New York-based Khaite to Australian fashion brand Aje and L.A.’s Sergio Hudson—who made waves when Michelle Obama wore one of his ensembles to Joe Biden’s presidential inauguration last year—McMullen expertly curates her favorite pieces from

each collection she carries. It’s a life-long passion for fashion that continues to motivate her. “Even growing up, I always loved fashion and, ultimately, I wanted to do something for myself and create something for my family in a city I’ve grown to love.”

In celebration of the boutique’s 15th anniversary, McMullen’s taking the fashion show on the road—what started with a pop-up in L.A.’s Leimert Park neighborhood this summer will continue as a six-month residency in downtown Detroit in September. “We really wanted to get to know our L.A. customers who shop with us online, and I had such a great feeling about Detroit when I visited earlier this year—it’s the place to be at this time.” And, in July, she opened a 10,000-square-foot warehouse space both as an expansion of her e-commerce business and to house an incubator program that officially launches in November to provide space, resources and industry access to new talent in fashion.

What’s new for fall? The stylish stockist will now include choice pieces from LaQuan Smith, Dries Van Noten and Wales Bonner. 2257 Broadway, Oakland, 510-508-0773; shopmcmullen.com. D.N.

The sprawling new warehouse space is part of McMULLEN’s e-commerce expansion plans, and will host a fashion incubator program launching this fall.

Below: The trailblazing retailer—wearing a PROENZA SCHOULER sweater, CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS pants and SELINA KING jewelry—began her career as a buyer for Neiman Marcus.

“I started supporting Statements - McMullen young designers early on—that’s the part of the business I’m really most passionate about” SHERRI McMULLEN

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WAREHOUSE: MARIE NGUYEN. PORTRAIT: SAMANTHA TYLER COOPER.

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JENNIFER MEYER Eau de Parfum, $130.

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BULGARI Eden, The Garden of Wonders Emerald Glory necklace, price upon request.

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Designer Jennifer Meyer, best known for adorning celebrities like Kate Hudson, Demi Moore and Jennifer Aniston with her delicate fine jewelry designs, is expanding into the lifestyle and beauty space. Her eponymous fragrance, in development for over a year, recently made its debut, and a candle will launch later this fall. “This scent is a personal expression of my childhood memories of growing up on the beaches of Malibu,” Meyer shares. “I wanted to bottle up that fresh, yummy, just-got-home-from-the-beach smell.” Housed in the chic, matte-white bottle are notes of cranberry, strawberry, coconut water, waterlily, fig leaves, neroli blossom, white floral accord, sandalwood and crystal musk. “It’s all the things I love in one bottle,” Meyer declares. “I think a great fragrance can become a part of who you are. I love the power of a beautiful scent!” jennifermeyer.com. K.A.

Statements -4.Style News

OUR TIME IN EDEN

Colored gemstones, a Bulgari mainstay, are front and center in the Roman house’s latest high jewelry collection that includes more than 140 pieces inspired by nature, brimming with visions of verdant stems, multihued blooms and azure seas. The designs of Bulgari Eden, The Garden of Wonders are constructed around gems arranged in sinuous formations, combining the vibrant shades of sapphires and an array of diamonds, tourmalines, carnelians, amethysts and emeralds. The Emerald Venus necklace—one of more than 30 pieces devoted to the striking stone—is set with a 20-carat octagonal-cut emerald and emulates the Capelvenere, a Mediterranean fern whose name in Italian evokes the goddess Venus’ hair, while the Mediterranean Reverie design, with a rare 107-carat cushion-cut sapphire, echoes the hue of Capri’s Blue Grotto sea cave. bulgari.com. E.V.

1. TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany HardWear link necklace, $21,000. 2. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Olympia necklace, $347,000.

3. ALEXANDRA JULES Large Classic link necklace, $3,850.

4. DAVID WEBB hexagonal and round link necklace, $9,500.

5. CARTIER Santos de Cartier necklace, $8,500. R.R.

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HAPPY FEET Block color sneakers to put some pep in your step

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1. BOTTEGA VENETA Pillow sneakers, price upon request. 2. BALENCIAGA slip-ons, $750. 3. MIU MIU sneakers, $880.

4. ALEXANDER McQUEEN Sprint Runner sneakers, $790. 5. VALENTINO One Stud XL sneakers, $980. R.R.

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Interlude Home

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AD IT UP A new LACMA exhibit puts a spotlight on the visual language of advertising

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he oft-underappreciated art of commercial photography finally gets its due with LACMA’s Objects of Desire: Photography and the Language of Advertising, which looks at the visual language of the medium and the adoption of its content, formats and distribution methods in fine-art photography.

“I’m always interested in what contemporary artists are making and the ways in which they influence culture,” says Rebecca Morse, who curated the works of 34 artists for the multimedia show. “Because advertising is at the center of this exhibition, I believe it will encourage visitors to reconcile with false truths and visual manipulation.” The exhibit features works by the likes of Chris Burden, Barbara Kruger and Sandy Skoglund, who takes cues from the harsh color palette and lighting of commercial food photography in her 1978 series “Food Still Lifes,” a commentary on mass culture versus high art. Highlighting the commodification of the individual, Sanja Iveković’s “GEN XX” series appropriates ads featuring women and replaces product branding and slogans with the names of female resistance fighters during the Nazi occupation of her native former Yugoslavia. Consider us already sold.

Sept. 4 through Dec. 18. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A.; lacma.org. 2

Statements - LACMA “Overall, the works included are luscious and captivating” REBECCA MORSE

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TOILETPAPER: TOILETPAPER (DECEMBER 2012), COURTESY OF THE ARTISTS MAURIZIO CATTELAN AND PIERPAOLO FERRARI, AND LACMA BALCH ART RESEARCH LIBRARY. SKOGLUND: SANDY SKOGLUND, LUNCHEON MEAT ON A COUNTER, 1978, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST. BECKMAN: ERICKA BECKMAN, SPOONFUL, 1987, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST.

Clockwise: An image from MAURIZIO CATTELAN and PIERPAOLO FERRARI’s Toiletpaper magazine, 2012. Luncheon Meat on a Counter, 1978, by SANDY SKOGLUND. ERICKA BECKMAN’s Spoonful, 1987.

Buccellati

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T R E N D LORO PIANA Vera dress, $3,835, Sesia Happy Day micro bag, price upon request, and Regent ankle boots, $2,400. THATCH Dani herringbone bracelet/ anklet, $100.

Statements - Loro Piana SOFT TOYS Nothing says cozy-chic like Loro Piana’s new Cashfur creations

Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Fashion Direction by REBECCA RUSSELL 50

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David Webb

The Beverly Wilshire - 9500 Wilshire Boulevard • 310-858-8006 • www.davidwebb.com • @davidwebbjewels

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Standout timepieces with jewel-tone faces

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MATERIAL WORLD

The Genevieve jean by ULLA JOHNSON, $475.

Known for her romantic silhouettes adorned with ruffles and an assemblage of prints, worldly-wise designer Ulla Johnson has launched a new category for her eponymous luxury brand: premium denim. Debuting in Fall/Winter 2022, the range features four jean styles and one jacket, all handcrafted from superior denim in Los Angeles. The collection consists of an elegant combination of highwaisted, slouchy styles with a tonally vintage-like wash created using responsible production techniques. “Each piece is dozens of hours in the making and is lovingly detailed with custom hammered hardware,” Johnson notes. The designer is not stopping there; in collaboration with Kelly Wearstler, she is creating a twostory boutique in West Hollywood, set to open at the end of the year. Stamping her first retail footprint on the West Coast, Johnson will undoubtedly be bringing her travel influences into the California space. ullajohnson.com. R.R.

Statements - Style News

TRUNK SHOW

Brooklyn Balloon Company by ROBERT MOY for LOUIS 200.

Louis Vuitton’s traveling trove of trunks—reimagined physically and digitally by artists including West Coast-based Alex Israel, Gigi Goode, creative studio Playlab, Inc., Frank Gehry and Jwan Yosef—is on display in a Los Angeles stopover as the exhibition traverses the globe before a year-end Sotheby’s auction benefitting creative education. The show, dubbed 200 Trunks, 200 Visionaries, celebrates the bicentennial of the French house’s founding father with a collection of trunks dreamed up by 200 creatives. The inspired works range from Lego’s candle-topped birthday cake design to Peter Marino’s leather-clad trunk daring a modern Houdini to escape. The L.A. installation, on view through Sept. 6, features an immersive room inspired

by Robert Moy of Brooklyn Balloon Company’s rectangular trunk of resincoated, candy-colored inflated balloons; the space fittingly doubles as an escapist party celebration. 468 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills; louis200.com. E.V.

From top: TAG HEUER Monaco Purple Dial, $7,150. JAEGER-LeCOULTRE Polaris Date, $9,200. CARTIER Santos de Cartier watch, $7,800. BULGARI Bvlgari Aluminium x Ducati watch, $5,000. VACHERON CONSTANTIN Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph, $140,000. R.R.

CLOSED OPENS German clothing label Closed—known for its trademark X-pocket denim famously donned by the late Tupac and George Michael—has arrived at Platform in Culver City. An archive of vintage designs from founders Marithé and François Girbaud continue to inspire the brand’s current chapter, forged by owners Gordon Giers, Til Nadler and Hans Redlefsen. The minimalist, more than 1,000-square-foot space (Closed’s first U.S. boutique) is awash in vibrant yellow tones intimating the California summer sunlight. Below large-format images by photographer Leandro Colantoni hang a slate of women’s and men’s designs in addition to a sustainable jean line, A Better Blue, that uses natural plant- and mineral-based dyes and nitrogen to intensify color and reduce water waste. The eco-conscious designs are made with organic cotton and recycled fabrics.

Dungarees and other denim sport Closed’s signature fly label. 8850 Washington Blvd., Culver City; closed.com. E.V. The STUDIO LANSKY-designed CLOSED store at Platform.

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How do you say Pink in French?

Photographer Iris Velghe - Conception Luma

Laurent Perrier

The Pink Champagne from Pinot Noir. Chosen by the best. champagnelaurentperrier www.laurent-perrier.com

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WHAT ARE YOU WEARING TO THE METAVERSE? Even digital worlds require a wardrobe— and luxury brands are fighting for your dollars a long way from Rodeo Drive

pair of wavy green-andpink Gucci sneakers that’ll set you back a mere $12? A sleek Balenciaga motocross ensemble that will cost about the same as two coffees from Starbucks? If that sounds too good to be true, rest assured, these things are, in fact, real.

Well, sort of.

It depends on your definition of “real” these strange days. Because while those things exist in a sense, they aren’t physical garments you’d lovingly drape across your body or tuck inside the closet. Instead, they are accessible only online and, more importantly, a symbol of how high-end fashion brands are looking to penetrate the mysterious realm known as the metaverse.

What exactly is this metaverse of which we speak? In essence, it’s an online simulation that echoes the contours of the world we currently inhabit, like a mix of

virtual and augmented realities. And if that all seems like some far-off fantasy, consider this: every time you sit down for a Zoom meeting or use those Instagram filters that plump your lips or smooth your skin, or buy an NFT (more on that later), you’re dipping a toe into the metaverse’s nascent phases.

Which begs the question—what will we do there? Well, probably a lot of what we do IRL now: work, hang out with friends, see a concert or a movie and, as some luxury brands are counting on, shop.

That’s because pixel versions of ourselves, known as avatars, will act as digital standins for our flesh-and-blood bodies. And the thinking goes, those avatars will need something to wear.

For proof, look no further than Facebook, which has committed itself to the concept so deeply that it rechristened itself as, well, Meta. And as a preview of its ambitions in the fashion space, in June it announced a “Meta Avatars Store”

Words by MAX BERLINGER Illustrations by IRIS LEI 54

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Loro Piana

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“The designers doing it right are reinventing fashion by not following the limitations of ‘real’ life”

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J O H N A G H AYA N

which will debut with purchasable outfits from fashion heavy-hitters Prada and Thom Browne, not to mention that sleek Balenciaga biker ensemble.

“It took me two seconds, no, one second, to know what it needed to be,” Browne explained to The New York Times fashion critic Vanessa Friedman. “I thought the gray suit needed to engage in this world.”

Californians will have a natural understanding of fashion in the metaverse as it blends two foundational West Coast domains: L.A.’s love of glamour with Silicon Valley’s technological wizardry. And every day there’s yet another example of the way these two worlds will converge. Earlier this year was the first ever Metaverse Fashion Week, hosted on one platform vying to be the leading virtual world we adopt as our second home, Decentraland, and featuring brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Etro and Forever 21.

In July, model Karlie Kloss hosted a series of pop-up shops on the gaming site Roblox, selling limited-edition ensembles ranging

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from a romantic crinoline and sparkly skirt to casual jeans and a shirt. The designer Jason Wu, meanwhile, partnered with the digital clothing company DressX on an NFT of the gown he made for then-First Lady Michelle Obama to wear to the 2009 Inauguration Ball, to be auctioned off to the highest bidder. (NFT, it should be said, stands for non-fungible token, which is a unique digital asset that is transactionalized through a shared ledger system known as the blockchain.) Luxury watchmaker Tag Heuer has even released a timepiece, its latest iteration of the Connected Watch, that will display a Bored Ape, a CryptoPunk or any NFT for that matter on the watch face. Each day it seems a new fashion-oriented metaverse project is announced.

No brand has better explored this territory than the storied fashion house Balenciaga, which has gone through a major evolution since its current creative director Demna (he dropped his last name,

Gvasalia, late last year) took over in 2015. In addition to moving away from the brand’s signature Audrey Hepburn elegance toward a more contemporary, streetwearmeets-couture aesthetic, Demna has played with virtual reality in various ways. In late 2020, as we were still mostly confined in our homes, the brand showed its Fall 2021 collection in the form of a video game titled Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow, which showed dystopian, tattered clothes in a bleak post-apocalyptic world. A year later, Balenciaga worked with the wildly popular video game Fortnite on a series of “skins”— digital outfits for players’ avatars—one of which emulates the brand’s hulking, oversized streetwear look.

The reason for all this excitement should be obvious: there’s money to be made. A lot of it, in fact. Morgan Stanley recently predicted that by 2030, the metaverse could be a $50 billion market for luxury brands, so it stands that these nascent efforts could yield some very Continued on p.126

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House of Sun

South Coast Plaza 714.556.4808

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GIVENCHY TK-360 sneakers in beige and black (below), $895/pair.

SOLE MATES

A.P.C. x BRAIN DEAD (top left and bottom left). Brain Dead x STEPNEY WORKERS CLUB. Logo-head chained forever ring by JASON LEF. .

BRAIN POWERED

Nearly a decade has passed since Kyle Ng and Ed Davis founded Brain Dead, a streetwear label and underground collective of artists, musicians, filmmakers and designers from around the globe. As its international fan base grew, brands took note, and collaborations with the likes of Reebok, Converse, A.P.C., The North Face and Oakley followed, as well as collections for the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences and Marvel. Created in-house with no named author to speak of, Brain Dead: Clothing for a Curious Life (Rizzoli New York, $65) is a review of the L.A.-based group’s multifarious projects, inspired by the natural world and subcultures which extend beyond geographical boundaries, from B-movie horror films to postpunk. The resulting tome is art directed as if it were a fanzine in trademark Brain Dead house style, because essentially that’s what it is (albeit with a hard cover). Out in October. A.B.

Matthew M. Williams, Givenchy’s Californiaraised creative director, devised a new way to dress feet this fall. Giving new meaning to knitwear, his revolutionary TK-360 sneaker is constructed as a single fully knitted piece of fabric. The stretch-knit upper is integrated with the sole, allowing wearers to walk directly on the knit, as if wearing socks. New state-ofthe-art technology enables this radical shape and design with a singular tread motif that plays on the final letter of the house’s name.

Available in classic white and black, the unique men’s shoe also comes in seasonal hues of acid yellow, graphite gray, camel beige, navy and light pink. After two years of living in socks, why not swap them for a pair with soles? givenchy.com. E.V.

Statements - Style News

PURSE FIRST Flap bags to fancy

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1. SAINT LAURENT at FWRD.com Toy Puffer bag, $1,850. 2. JIMMY CHOO Varenne Avenue bag, $1,895. 3. LOEWE Goya puffer bag, $3,350.

4. ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ZV Initiale Le Long bag, $448. 5. CHANEL bag, $5,300. R.R.

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Jaeger Lecoultre

POLARIS N ew York – Sou t h Coast P laza – Ro d e o Dr i ve – Yo r kd a l e S h o p p i n g Ce n tre

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FUN CUT GEMS A crystal-embellished Michael Kors accessory will elevate any outfit

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MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION turtleneck cashmere dress, $1,950, crystal heels, $1,290, and crystalembellished Marigold mini bags, $1,490 each. ALEXANDRA JULES Skinni peridot ring, $895.

Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Fashion Direction by REBECCA RUSSELL 60

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Minotti

ROGER SEATING SYSTEM | RODOLFO DORDONI DESIGN SUPERQUADRA COFFEE TABLE | MARCIO KOGAN / STUDIO MK27 DESIGN DISCOVER MORE AT MINOTTI.COM/ROGER

BY ECRÙ INC. SOLE DEALER OF MINOTTI S.P.A. FOR LOS ANGELES AND ORANGE COUNTY 8936 BEVERLY BLVD - LOS ANGELES - CA 90048 T. 310.278.6851 - INFO@MINOTTI-LA.COM WWW.MINOTTI-LA.COM

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The writer Joan Didion’s observations conjure a specific, often searing picture of a place and its mood, be it San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury, the Santa Anas of Southern California or Manhattan’s Central Park. “We tell ourselves stories in order to live,” she wrote in the opening of her 1979 book of essays, The White Album. Now, writer and Pulitzer Prize-winning critic Hilton Als is weaving together a visual portrait of her singular life in Joan Didion: What She Means (Oct. 11 through Jan. 22) at the Hammer Museum, in collaboration with the institution’s chief curator, Connie Butler. Following Als’ exhibitions on James Baldwin and Toni Morrison, which Butler says “narrate the life of another writer through visual art,” his latest show includes works from around 50 artists, including Ed Ruscha and Betye Saar. The disparate pieces function as visual corollaries to Didion’s work.

Accompanied by a catalog with three little-known essays of hers, the exhibition includes a trove of personal ephemera.

“The radicalism of Didion’s vision has to do with not only not looking away but describing what others cannot see or won’t,” says Als. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 310-443-7000; hammer.ucla.edu. E.V.

With its sweeping views of the bay and Golden Gate Bridge, the Presidio has long been arguably one of San Francisco’s most scenic and popular spots.

This summer, the site opened its much anticipated 14-acre visitor attraction, Presidio Tunnel Tops, a park that bridges over the newly tunneled Presidio Parkway with easily accessible trails, picnic areas and picturesque overlooks.

Developed by James Corner Field Operations—the award-winning firm behind New York’s The High Line and Pier 17—the sprawling parkland features lush gardens and meadows filled with native plants, as well as a dedicated 2-acre nature play area for children called the Outpost. The community-driven design project will host activations around art, culture, food, wellness and music during its inaugural season. presidiotunneltops.gov. D.N.

Statements - Design + Art News

From top: JOAN DIDION in the 1952 McClatchy High School yearbook.

View from the Palmist Window, 1966, by BETYE SAAR . A sketch of Didion

by DON BACHARDY.

The Outpost at the PRESIDIO TUNNEL TOPS includes play structures built from fallen tree trunks and other natural materials.

SITTING PRETTY “Designing for a person and a body is not the same as designing furniture,” says the former Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati. And yet he contends, “upholstery, as a craft, is something a fashion designer can understand with a certain familiarity.” He’s made the correlation between fashion and furnishings exceptionally clear in Pinto x Pilati, his recent collaboration with the French interior design firm Pinto. The capsule collection includes two show-stopping limited-edition pieces: an oversized sofa wrapped in Maison Pierre Frey cotton toile, and a bronze sculptural armchair that was envisioned as a living piece of art by Italian designer and Pinto’s new chairman and co-artistic director, Fahad Hariri.

Both items are runway finale-worthy designs. pinto.design. D.N. The PINTO x PILATI sofa features an oak base capped in various densities of high-resilience foam and serpentine coil springs.

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DIDION (3): FROM THE FORTHCOMING BOOK JOAN DIDION: WHAT SHE MEANS PUBLISHED BY DELMONICO BOOKS AND THE HAMMER MUSEUM—YEARBOOK: COURTESY OF KATHRYN DIDION. BETYE SAAR: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND ROBERTS PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES. DON BACHARDY: COLLECTION OF HILTON ALS.

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Loewe ©2022 South Coast Plaza

South Coast Plaza SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA’S ULTIMATE SHOPPING DESTINATION Alexander McQueen · Audemars Piguet · Baccarat · Balenciaga · Bottega Veneta · Brunello Cucinelli · Buccellati Burberry · Cartier · Celine · Chanel · Chloé · Christian Louboutin · Dior · Dior Men · Dolce&Gabbana · Fendi Frette · Gianvito Rossi · Giorgio Armani · Givenchy · Gucci · Harry Winston · Hermès · Jimmy Choo · Loewe Loro Piana · Louis Vuitton · Max Mara · Mikimoto · Moncler · Monique Lhuillier · Moynat · Oscar de la Renta Prada · Ralph Lauren · Roger Vivier · Rolex · Saint Laurent · Salvatore Ferragamo · Stella McCartney The Webster · Thom Browne · Tiffany & Co. · Tod’s · Valentino · Van Cleef & Arpels · Versace · Zimmermann partial listing

San Diego FWY (405) at Bristol St., Costa Mesa, CA SOUTHCOASTPLAZA.COM 800.782.8888 @SouthCoastPlaza

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OFF THE HOOK At Fiish, Colin Whitbread and James Willis bring together their passion for sustainability and sushi

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s a sushi chef and a San Diego native, Colin Whitbread prides himself on the quality of fish he uses but also on his steadfast commitment to ethically and sustainably sourced ingredients.

Plus, there’s his knack for entertaining.

“Personality has a lot to do with it because doing sushi is almost like bartending in a weird way,” he says.

While Whitbread’s approach has earned him a starry clientele with the likes of Mike Tyson and the Jonas Brothers, it also captured the attention of acclaimed restaurateur, entrepreneur and fellow surfer James “Jamo” Willis. In April 2022, the ocean-loving pair debuted their Californian-meets-Japanese sushi concept at Culver City’s Platform with Little Fiish, a temporary pop-up catering and to-go business, which very soon became Fiish, the new 100-seat restaurant they opened at Platform in July.

“This is just the mothership,” says Willis, who also serves as creative director for the soon-to-open Palm Springs Surf Club wave pool. “It’s a lifestyle brand,” he explains, citing upcoming fashion and art collaborations as well as thoughts of opening a second location in the future.

Placing an emphasis on nigiri, the menu will span everything from poke bowls to a 16-course omakase offering, paired with cocktails crafted with soju and sake, or wine and house-made beer. Executive chef Whitbread and chef Cody Requejo remain dedicated to using local purveyors (such as California’s Serrato Farms) and sustainably sourced ingredients. “Our carbon footprint for our fish is a lot smaller coming from Baja [Mexico] than Japan,” says Whitbread. “I call it guilt-free sushi.” 8820 Washington Blvd., Ste. 101, Culver City, 310-227-2226; fiish.co. •

From top: FIISH founders JAMES WILLIS and COLIN WHITBREAD. The sushi bar. A selection of nigiri. The 100-seat restaurant opened in Culver City’s PLATFORM.

Words by LESLEY McKENZIE 64

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WHITBREAD AND WILLIS: JULIAN MARTIN. INTERIORS. KEN WHEELER. NIGIRI: COREY WILSON.

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IRINA SHAYK wears the ANINE BING Tiger sweatshirt, $179, and jeans, $229.

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The CARTIER Trinity for CHITOSE ABE of Sacai collection.

PLEASE WEAVE

From top: The new San Francisco BOTTEGA VENETA flagship. The denim Brick Cassette bag, $2,350.

With a facade clad in Absolute Black granite and a black metal sign designed in collaboration with French artist and skater Raphaël Zarka, San Francisco’s recently expanded Bottega Veneta boutique now has a modern urban look to pair with its new Geary Street address. The house’s pre-Fall collection debuts in the updated space amid sculptural solid oak shelves and furniture, also designed by Zarka, who is known for his photos and video clips of skaters irreverently using public sculptures as ramps. French and Belgian creative director Matthieu Blazy’s Winter 2022 collection—his first at the label’s helm—will arrive later this fall. Naturally, the shop has seamless (and skate-worthy) concrete floors. Plants add a touch of Bottega green throughout and are potted in sculptor Anders Ruhwald’s ceramic vessels produced by Officine Saffi. In tandem with the opening, the brand has introduced a denim version of its intrecciato woven Cassette bag, an exclusive to the store. 124 Geary St., S.F.; bottegaveneta.com. E.V.

POWER OF THREE Chitose Abe, Sacai’s innovative founder and creative director, began her personal take on Cartier’s three-band Trinity ring as a private commission. Now her idea has sparked one of fall’s most inventive collections, as the jewelry house’s atelier is releasing six limited editions of Abe’s tri-colored gold designs.

The reimagined white, yellow and rose gold modular bands—released as two ring styles, a bracelet, a choker, an earring and a changeable design that can be an earring or ring—update Cartier’s almost centuryold Trinity concept, which was originally regarded as daring for its lack of precious stones. The Trinity for Chitose Abe of Sacai range is a nod to the brand’s long tradition of bespoke orders and a hint at its boundary-breaking potential. cartier.com. E.V.

MILESTONE MOMENT Statements - Style News When Los Angeles-based, Denmark-born Anine Bing established a fashion house in 2012, little did she know of the global success that would ensue. “It’s surreal to see how significantly the brand has grown over the past 10 years,” she says of her eponymous label, whose fans include former C cover stars Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley and Alessandra Ambrosio. What launched as a small collection of wardrobe essentials from Bing’s Silver Lake garage (and later from her Downtown L.A. headquarters) is now a fullfledged fashion empire with 14 stores worldwide and plans for six more this year. The decennial celebrations for the brand— which epitomizes laid-back California style and Scandinavian sophistication, with edgy hardware and intricate lace details—also include a recently debuted resort category and the relaunch of its classics collection with a campaign starring Irina Shayk. “I can’t wait for the next 10 years!” Bing says. aninebing.com. R.R.

SKIN DISCIPLINE Editrix, with its forthright approach and microbiome expertise, has earned its spot on luxury beauty shelves. “The Editrix woman wants a minimalist yet effective approach to beauty so she has time to maximize the art of living,” explains founder and former beauty editor Dahlia Devkota. Numbed by the number of beauty products that crossed her desk, Devkota teamed up with her sister, a Harvard-trained microbiologist, to develop a fermentation process that extracts nutrients from both Ayurvedic plants (the brand’s proprietary Liberated Botanicals) and beneficial skin bacteria from healthy human donors (a patent-pending Biodiversity Broth) in a highly absorbable form. It’s the secret sauce in the brand’s four-product range that delivers soft, supple, hydrated skin, eliminating the need to play mixologist with a counter full of products. editrixwellness.com. K.A. The EDITRIX four-step regimen, $78-$290.

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MEDITATION BELL COLLECTION

PA U L MO R E L L I

Augustina’s

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Statements - Armani GLAMOUR GLIMMERS Trust Giorgio Armani to put some sparkle back in your stride

GIORGIO ARMANI velvet V-neck jacket, $6,800, small jacquard-pattern hobo bag with jewel chain, $2,495, and stretch velvet ankle boots with lucite heels, $1,695. THATCH Dani herringbone bracelet/anklet, $100.

Photography by MARK GRIFFIN CHAMPION Fashion Direction by REBECCA RUSSELL 68

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moniquelhuillier.com

Monique Lhuillier

Monique Lhuillier South Coast Plaza 714.241.4432 Los Angeles 323.655.1088

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Reservations for PETROSSIAN AT TIFFANY can be made through OpenTable.

Inside MES AMIS. Below: The Lucky Lady cocktail with mezcal, Clément Blanc Rhum Agricole, lime, orgeat and Cointreau.

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Two years after Lincoln Carson’s lauded DTLA restaurant, Bon Temps, closed its doors, fans of the James Beard-nominated chef’s French fare can finally rejoice with the arrival of Mes Amis. The new-generation Hollywood brasserie beckons with Paris-meets-L.A. interiors by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio and Bernadette Blanc.

Natural oak floors and Noir Saint Laurent marble set the stage for a menu of classics with a modern POV, from a robust raw bar to smoked liberty duck breast with wild huckleberry jus. Carson’s mastery of pastries is also on full display—literally, on a custom dessert cart—with standouts like a gâteau St. Honoré with pecan mousseline that’s available by the slice or to share. We’ll take two for the table. 1541 Wilcox Ave., L.A., 323-410-6200; mesamisla.com. A.J.B.

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Petrossian’s signature cerulean-colored tins of sustainably sourced caviar—some produced in California—mingle with Tiffany & Co.’s trademark robin’s-egg blue inside Costa Mesa’s Petrossian at Tiffany, a new co-branded cafe at the storied jewelry boutique’s South Coast Plaza location.

The menu, created by Petrossian executive chef Carlos Cabrera and exclusive to Tiffany, is headlined by Champagne and Shassetra, Ossetra and Kaluga caviar, with such inventive mainstays as buckwheat blinis, potato mille-feuille and, of course, hand-sliced smoked salmon and beef tartare. Creme fraiche and toast accompany each tasting, and the caviar is served on mother-of-pearl spoons. The collaboration between the Parisian purveyor and American jeweler is a not-to-bemissed two-year residency that’s both elegant and imaginative. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-5405330 ext. 311; tiffany .com; petrossian.com. E.V.

Trottole pasta with pesto alla Trapanese at MARISI.

San Diego’s flourishing dining scene has a splashy La Jolla newcomer with serious Italian flair. The culinary team at Marisi includes executive chef Chad Huff, formerly of Providence, Felix Trattoria and Broad Street Oyster Co., whose dishes are served alongside an exacting beverage program created by The Restaurant at Meadowood alum Beau du Bois and sommelier Chris Plaia. (Don’t miss the house-made limoncello.) “Bringing together fine dining and trattoria cooking, our team developed the menu to be comforting but refined, with an emphasis on the wood-fired hearth and pastas inspired by tradition,” Huff explains.

Expect Italian-influenced surf as well as turf, with dishes like hearth-fired mackerel, squid and artichoke, in addition to dry-aged beef specialties. The exuberant interiors feature boldly patterned custom mosaic floor tiles and wallpapers, accenting Marisi’s lively, generously sized central bar.

1044 Wall St., La Jolla, 858-401-6787; marisilajolla.com. J.R.

BOY NEXT DOOR As a volunteer firefighter for the St. Helena Fire Department, Elliot Bell is no stranger to serving the community. The New Zealand-born, Iowa-bred chef came to California by way of Boston, Seattle and New York (cutting his teeth at Gramercy Tavern), ultimately settling in Napa Valley, where he spent the last decade of his career at The French Laundry. This fall, to give thanks to the neighborhood that welcomed him and his young family, Bell is debuting his own restaurant, Charlie’s. Named after his 2-year-old son, Charlie’s will feature a relaxed, seasonal menu focused on local purveyors like Wolfe Ranch Quail, St. Helena Peach Farm and Regiis Ova Caviar. The fire station, as well as Bell’s home, are just around the corner.

Now that’s local. 1327 Railroad Ave., St. Helena; charliesnv.com. A.J.B. Chef ELLIOT BELL’s restaurant CHARLIE’S is located in the charming building that once housed Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen.

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MES AMIS: WONHO FRANK LEE (DRINK) AND MICHAEL MUNDY (INTERIOR). CHARLIE'S: EMMA K. MORRIS.

Statements - Food + Drink News LA JOLLA VITA

Dine on Top Chef cuisine

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Resort at Paws Up MONTANA MASTER CHEFS® ONLY AT THE RESORT AT PAWS UP SEPTEMBER 22–25, 2022

Every September, this three-day fall foodie weekend brings perfect wine pairings, live local music and phenomenal adventures to a setting that’s beyond compare. This year’s visiting chefs are Top Chef elite.

So come, sink your teeth into cuisine dreamed up by Season 12 finalist Chef Doug Adams and Season 15 finalist Chef Joe Sasto—and venture outside together to bask in the incredible colors of autumn in Montana.

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Marin Country Mart

FALL 2022 Well Opener

CHRISTIAN AWANDER

DRIES VAN NOTEN coat, $1,890, dickey, $915, belt, $425, and necklace, $1,095.

DAVID WEBB earrings, $13,200. WING & WEF T gloves, $500.

GIANVITO ROSSI boots, $2,195.

Trend-Testing Futurism in the Mojave Desert p.74 / Louis Vuitton Descends on San Diego p.86 / Dree Hemingway Makes Her Way to Hollywood p.90 / Yves Béhar’s San Francisco City Compound p.106 / Why Alexis Mabille Is Swapping Couture for Caviar p.116

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Fashion takes a futuristic turn this fall, so where better to road test these otherworldly creations than the Mars-like Mojave Desert?

SPACE Feature - Fashion

ODYSSEY Photography by CHRISTIAN ANWANDER

Fashion Direction by CHRISTOPHER CAMPBELL

MAX MARA dress, $1,890, and balaclava, $220. WING & WEF T gloves, $500. VALENTINO shoes, $1,150. Vintage YVES SAINT LAURENT bracelet from ALBRIGHT FASHION LIBRARY L.A., price upon request.

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LOEWE sweater, $2,600, and pants, similar styles available. WING & WEF T gloves, $1,250. DAVID WEBB ring, $26,000, and gold cuff, $39,000. KMO stackable bracelets from ALBRIGHT FASHION LIBRARY L.A., prices upon request. Opposite: BALENCIAGA coat, $1,750, bodysuit, $1,750, and boots, $1,850.

Archival BALENCIAGA earrings from ALBRIGHT FASHION LIBRARY L.A., price upon request.

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CHAINED BY SEDONA cape (model’s own brand), $4,500. SACAI coat, $1,490, and boots, $1,990. Opposite: VERSACE dress, $1,950, boots, $2,225, barrette (worn as an earcuff), $219, and stud earrings, $375. PRUNE GOLDSCHMIDT leggings, $450. WING & WEF T gloves, $500.

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO dress with belt, $5,530.

GIANVITO ROSSI boots, $1,345. Archival SAINT LAURENT earrings from ALBRIGHT FASHION LIBRARY L.A., price upon request.

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PROENZA SCHOULER top, $1,190, undershirt, $990, skirt, $1,990, and boots, $875. PACO RABANNE earrings from ALBRIGHT FASHION LIBRARY L.A., $385.

Opposite: ALEXANDER McQUEEN dress, $3,670, belt, $790, ear cuff, $650, bracelet, $1,090, and cuff, price upon request.

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VALENTINO dress, $12,000, and shoes, $1,150. JUDY GEIB earrings, $4,150. AMANDA PEARL ring from ALBRIGHT FASHION LIBRARY L.A., price upon request.

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Model SEDONA LEGGE at Photo/Genics. Hair by ANDRE GUNN at Art Department using T3 Micro. Makeup by ELAYNA BACHMAN at Art Department using YSL Beauty. Manicure by EMI KUDO at A-Frame Agency using Dior Vernis.

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BEAUTY BEHIND THE BRUTALISM Informed by La Jolla’s architectural masterwork and its surrounding coast, Nicolas Ghesquière’s chameleonic cruise collection comes to Southern California

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he guest of honor is the sun,” says Louis Vuitton creative director Nicolas Ghesquière of his Cruise 2023 collection presented at the Salk Institute for Biological Studies at the start of summer. On this balmy early evening in La Jolla, the dramatic hillside nonprofit—a working biomedical research hub founded by the late virologist Dr. Jonas Salk in 1965— serves as a sunlight-soaked concrete canvas for a women’s collection created to celebrate and shelter from the sun’s rays.

Ghesquière says the space, designed by architect Louis Kahn as a place of serenity and reflection, allows his complex silhouettes to appear as “reflections, a point of contact between light and people.” The Brutalist walls, strong and durable, frame a minimalist plaza designed in travertine by Mexican architect Luis Barragán that, to Ghesquière, seems to encapsulate the burning orb itself.

“It’s as if the sun has found its frame; it plays with the building’s perspective, and its rays culminate in the linear fountainhead, the vanishing point where the water seems to turn to liquid gold,” he adds.

In attendance was some of Hollywood’s finest talent: former C cover stars Ana de Armas and Léa Seydoux joined Miranda Kerr, Maude Apatow and Ava DuVernay on the front row to witness Ghesquière’s unveiling.

The collection is constructed around fabrics and embellishments that have a reflective quality. From the initial goddess-inspired looks to the structured jackets and square shoulders that rounded out the presentation, many of the pieces are made with natural fabrics including cotton, silk, wool and linen, enhanced to look like poured metal. “It’s a total illusion,” Ghesquière says, noting that the lustrous effects come from mixing raw materials with shiny elements, from frayed tweeds to sequins, leathers and denim.

Metallic embroidery is intended to oxidize and change color over time, much like the steel on-site as it interacts with the seaside atmosphere.

The Salk’s searing architecture lays bare the raw qualities of California’s landscape, from coastal cliffs to deserts, and Ghesquière points out that “clothes are intrinsically tied to variations in heat,” hinting at the region’s

Accessories in Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton Cruise 2023 collection include reflective metallics splashed across bracelets, boots and monogram bags.

famed microclimates and offering various sartorial solutions to navigate them. Inspired in part by surf culture and desert nomadism, the futuristic collection includes voluminous draped jacquard dresses, designs secured with snap hooks that can be jettisoned as the mercury rises, and billowing trousers, bolero jackets, boxy short skirts and abbreviated tops.

Even the shoes are hybrids. The 51-year-old creative director, who previously honed his vision of the future helming Balenciaga, calls them “part desert boot, part sneaker and part mule.” Also of note is a bag designed with traditional trunk components—a nod to Vuitton’s roots—and monogram embossing that appears like the iconic print across sand.

Ghesquière regularly seeks out architectural gems for his cruise shows; recent sites include John Lautner’s Bob Hope House in Palm Springs and I.M. Pei’s Miho Museum outside Kyoto. He also owns a 1961 Lautner house perched high above Sunset Boulevard in the Hollywood Hills. In La Jolla, he seems especially attuned to the very aspect of the Salk’s coastal location that so preoccupied its famed architect. Kahn, infatuated with the play of light across the site, developed a series of light wells along each building designed to bring daylight into the underground laboratories as well as the monastic structures constructed above.

Indeed, the location itself is so entwined with the collection, it includes some prints inspired by Salk and photographed using a thermographic camera, plus designs Ghesquière compiled—from “Jet Skis, the sea, technical elements from the nautical life that blend with the sand, the rugged cliffs”—and splashed across fabrics. “It makes for beautiful images, the contrast between technology and the earth,” he adds. The juxtaposition of creativity and innovation in the area and throughout the region is also foremost in the designer’s mind: Architect William Pereira’s concrete Geisel Library, appearing like a spaceship perched above a canyon on the nearby University of California San Diego campus, looms large for Ghesquière, as does the wooden Victorian beachfront Hotel del Coronado.

“It all makes a really crazy collage,” he says. But the Salk is particularly resonant, given its visionary founder’s pioneering scientific work, not to mention the fact that we are still in a global pandemic. “This place holds enormous meaning for the future of humankind,” he adds. ●

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“ makes for “It beautiful images, the contrast between technology and the earth” NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE

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From top left: The Salk Institue (seen throughout). Shimmering metallic details were a key theme of the Cruise ’23 collection (seen throughout).

Front-row guests included (top right) SAMARA WEAVING, PHOEBE DYNEVOR and URASSAYA SPERBUND and (below center) CHLOË GRACE MORETZ, LÉA SEYDOUX and DELPHINE ARNAULT. Louis Vuitton creative director NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE with ANA DE ARMAS.

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PRADA top, $995, and skirt, $3,500. BULGARI ring, $12,600.

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After a string of indie hits, model turned actor Dree Hemingway is taking her rightful place in Hollywood Hemingway

Words by ALESSANDRA CODINHA Photography by CURTIS BUCHANAN Fashion Direction by PETRA FLANNERY

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FENDI dress, $3,190. JIMMY CHOO boots, $895. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS necklace (top), $2,310. BULGARI necklace, $7,250. Stylist’s own socks. Opposite: RODARTE dress, $2,200, and sweater, $1,335.

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HERMÈS dress, $11,900.

POMELLATO earrings, $2,500, and bracelet, $21,200. Opposite: CHANEL dress, $7,300, cardigan, $5,250, belt, $1,375, and necklace, $2,100. CARTIER rings, from $2,520.

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GUCCI jacket, $12,900.

Stylist’s own T-shirt.

DOLCE & GABBANA dress, $2,495. Adidas sneakers, $80.

POMELLATO ring, $2,970.

Opposite: BOTTEGA VENETA dress and sweater, prices upon request.

create their perception of who you are, and they want you, but the you that they think you are. And the me that I am”—a blonde and willowy self-professed “whack-job nerd” who has spent the past few days staying up late watching all of Star Wars in chronological order—“is something only I can feel or know.”

She tugs at a vape pen. “I’ve also struggled with the fact that the only reason people want me is because I’m a Hemingway. It’s made me want to prove myself even more.”

Hemingway—yes, her great-grandfather was Ernest, author of The Old Man and the Sea, and her mother is Mariel, of Manhattan fame—made her runway debut for Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week in 2009. She has been steadily working at the upper tier of modeling ever since, appearing in campaigns for the likes of Chanel, Gucci, Valentino and Paco Rabanne while slipping out to star in indie films like Sean Baker’s 2012 Independent Spirit Award-winning Starlet. (The New York Times called her “a spectacular find.”)

More recently she’s turned up playing a string of bewitching hipsters in projects helmed by a regular who’s who of indie darlings: Alex Ross Perry’s Listen Up Philip; Noah Baumbach’s While We’re Young alongside Ben Stiller, Adam Driver and Amanda Seyfried; and Michelle Morgan’s It Happened in L.A. Part of the appeal of acting over modeling lies in its challenges. “[Acting is] not just about being pretty or fitting into the clothes,” Hemingway says. “I’m also almost 35 and don’t fully fit into the clothes anymore, which is wild, but that was a thing in my 20s, a big thing for me, needing to fit into the clothes. I’m a lot healthier than I was then, and I’m a lot more grown-up. Sometimes going into photo shoots can trigger me into thinking that I’m not good enough.” She pauses to pat her dog, Bear, a 2-year-old rescue with fluffy haunches who has been patrolling the perimeter. “I shouldn’t be complaining about modeling because it’s delightful, but I just want to be making films.”

Hemingway recently wrapped The Kill Room in New York with director Nicol Paone.

The dark comedy/thriller skewers the art world and stars Uma Thurman and Samuel L. Jackson. Hemingway and Thurman play competing New York gallerists, while Jackson plays a gangster whose money-laundering scheme accidentally turns his hit man (Joe Manganiello) into a contemporary art-scene sensation. Thurman’s daughter and former C cover star Maya Hawke is also in the cast. “It’s a really, really fun film,” says Hemingway.

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t’s a warm summer morning in the blooming garden of Dree Hemingway’s vine-covered post-war home in Laurel Canyon, and she wants to talk about perception versus reality. “It’s funny, because I [have] always felt like I’ve had impostor syndrome while modeling. I’ve never felt like a model.” She knows how that sounds; her delicate bone structure, glacial blue eyes and lithe frame have brought her countless campaigns, editorials and catwalk opportunities. Inarguably, she was and is a very good model. But that’s perception talking. “I was just at therapy, and I was talking about how I’d recently done a lot of photo shoots and came off a movie, and I realized I love acting way more than I love taking photos,” she says. “On a photo shoot, people

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“I always felt like I had impostor syndrome.

I never felt like a model” D R E E H E M I N G W AY

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GIVENCHY top and jeans, prices upon request. ALEXANDER McQUEEN pumps, $950. BULGARI necklace, $62,000. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ring, $24,600. Opposite: RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION sweater, $1,590, and pants, $1,990. ADIDAS sneakers, $90. BUCCELLATI bracelets, from $30,000.

SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO dress, $5,490, bracelets, from $1,090, and sandals (not worn), $1,150. ADIDAS sneakers, $80. Opposite: DIOR shirt, skirt, corset, boots, earrings and ring (left), prices upon request. CARTIER ring, $2,520.

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Feature - Hemingway

GIORGIO ARMANI top, $7,400, pants, $1,359, and coat, price upon request. Opposite: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI cardigan, $3,700, and skirt, $8,895.

Hair by HOLLY MILLS at The Wall Group. Makeup by GINA BROOKE at The Wall Group. Manicure

by EMI KUDO at Opus Beauty using Dior Vernis. Locations THE HOLLYWOOD ROOSEVELT and THE RECORD PARLOUR .

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Hemingway grew up in Ketchum, Idaho, with her actor mother, her father (television documentarian Stephen Crisman), and her younger sister, Langley Fox (now an artist and model), before moving to Thousand Oaks for her high school years. Her experience introduced her to a type of adolescence that she says she drew on while creating her character for Starlet, an adult film actor who is stuck in a rut and searching for something more. One would think such a girl would be excited to have a Hemingway in her class.

“The girls I knew growing up were very competitive,” Hemingway says. “I never fully felt like I fit in.”

At home, television wasn’t allowed, except for anything on the Turner Classic Movies channel. “I became obsessed with Old Hollywood. To Catch a Thief and anything with Katherine Hepburn.” She would visit her mother on set and learned to love the team-sport aspect of making movies. “My mom said you can do anything when you turn 18. And one thing she said is, ‘I never want to hear that you’re a bitch; I will pull you out of there so fast.’ And so my thing is showing up on set, whether I’m in a really bratty mood or something’s happened that’s triggered me, I bring some light or festivity with me.”

Hemingway divides her time between the east and west coasts, and when she is not at her tranquil canyon perch overlooking Los Angeles, she rents a room from a friend in New York. Recently engaged, she met her fiancé, Nick Delli Santi, in L.A. and shows off an elegant oval-shaped diamond trimmed in a halo of small round-cut diamonds on a thin band of his design. “He did good!” she says.

Is he a jewelry designer? “No! He works in real estate,” she laughs. “I was really shocked by how good the ring was. I always thought, like, if I get a bad ring, is this not my person because he doesn’t know me?”

At top of mind these days is a new film shooting in September, one that she isn’t quite ready to discuss. So, for now, wedding planning is taking a back seat. “I’ve always had the dream of a family and kids, but I’ve never pre-thought out my wedding. I’m terrified of becoming a monster bride … what do they call it? A bridezilla. That terrifies me.” Hemingway suspects the only person she’ll call in for bridesmaid duty is her sister, who also lives in L.A. “She’s my best friend.”

At least the location is likely set. “My fiancé is from Rome, so we’ll probably get

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married there,” she says. “The only thing I’m concerned about is the dress.” A great perk of being a fashion favorite can also be a pitfall, and the crowd can be sensitive: “I have so many friends who are designers, I almost want to find a vintage one to not even go down that road.” In fact, not letting herself get weighed down by other people’s emotions and expectations around the big day might be the biggest hurdle of all. “My whole thing about a wedding is I don’t want someone to feel left out if they’re not invited. It’s more so about the other people than myself, and then that gives me anxiety.”

After two-plus years of quarantining and self-actualization, has Hemingway’s own style changed? “I’ve definitely moved past my

20s, where I was like, ‘Woo! I wanna look like that,’ to where I’m just very simple,” she says.

“I pretty much just want to wear The Row all the time and mix in Pop-y aspects. Really not a lot has changed. I think my hormones dictate a lot of things. I’ve matured. I’m more stable.” In the past, however, she experimented with her look in other ways, such as when she shaved her head for a role in 2018. “I’m so glad I did it, because I used to hide behind my hair as a security blanket. I couldn’t hide from anything.” She was surprised to find women were suddenly far more open to her, too. “I made a lot of girlfriends with the buzzed head,” she says. “I’ve always had a harder time with girls.” But maybe that was just her perception.

She’s more than ready for her new reality. ●

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San Francisco’s product designer par excellence Yves Béhar offers a peek inside his and his wife Sabrina Buell’s art-filled home

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Words by DAVID NASH Photography by FRANCOIS DISCHINGER

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SABRINA BUELL and YVES BÉHAR take five on a 1970 LUIGI COLANI modular Pool sofa in their office.

The shelving that spans the back wall was designed by Béhar to minimize sun fading to their collection of books.

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ituated in a desirable enclave of San Francisco’s Pacific Heights neighborhood—on one of those dauntingly vertical streets that challenges even the most experienced drivers—sits something of an ultramodern jewel box among the tightly arranged, mostly classical revival-style homes. And while it’s not uncommon to cross paths with this type of architectural evolution in the city, it’s another thing to see it done properly: with intention, not ego.

This particular home—a quiet monolith of sorts—is one of those intentional dwellings that showcases all the natural elements of its construction in the best light, without any unnecessary or glaring architectural elements to detract from its original purpose. Such is the work of the homeowner, Swiss-born industrial designer Yves Béhar, who spent the better part of five years designing his family’s four-level open-concept home. “When we bought the house over 10 years ago, it was too small for our family,” says Béhar. “It was a long process because I really designed every little bit of it. We lived in Sabrina’s loft for almost

five years during construction—all stacked up in one bedroom—before moving in.”

What once stood on the seemingly compact 3,123-square-foot lot—a traditional threestory, wood-clad home built in 1949—has been replaced by the family-forward compound that Béhar shares with his wife, art consultant Sabrina Buell, and their four young children.

“His focus was really on open spaces for all of us to be together,” notes Buell. “I mean, our bedroom doesn’t even have a door on it.”

To that end, Béhar strategized how to create the most thoughtful flow possible. “It’s not a big house,” she adds. “He wanted us to feel connected and like everyone could be visible to each other. From our bedroom upstairs, you

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Above: Less is more on the third-floor landing that connects the children’s bedroom to the office and leads upstairs to the primary bedroom. Left: Stone-carved Timor people statues keep many watchful eyes on the home from the deck off the bedroom.

“We bought the house over 10 years ago but we lived in Sabrina’s loft for almost five” YVES BÉHAR Perhaps Béhar’s favorite pieces of 1970s design are the UBALD KLUG Terrazza sofas in the living room—a go-to gathering spot for family game nights; the rock sculpture is by NICOLE WERMERS.

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With ample space, the couple’s bedroom often doubles as a screening room—or dance club— for the young family.

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can look down on the back deck where the kids play; every space, even the openness of the staircase, has these clear sightlines.”

“To me, the concept of a house—at least for me and my family—is that it’s a place to gather and play,” Béhar shares. “Almost every night, and even first thing in the morning, that’s what the kids want to do. So we play backgammon, chess or other card games— my 6-year-old actually beats me at chess.

They’re all really good.” That’s why the two bedrooms for the children, which occupy part of the third level, are on the smaller side. “He intentionally made the bedrooms very small for them—and to share—so they wouldn’t want to be in there too much,” says Buell.

The home’s interior is not only a reflection of the family’s close-knit dynamic but a showcase for the couple’s two passions: art and design. “We have similar tastes, but where the art is concerned, she’s the one that really studies and pursues it and understands both the context and idea,” asserts Béhar, the 55-year-old designer and founder of fuseproject, the award-winning design and innovation firm that has overseen product design for iconic brands like Prada, Herman Miller, Kodak, Samsung and General Electric—and whose work is in the permanent collections of both The Museum of Modern Art in New York and San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. “For me it’s always a surprise, and welcome dialog.” Yet, as Buell points out, her husband is anything but a novice when it comes to selecting art. “He’s given me pieces which I treasure—Yves has such inherently good taste.” Those gifts include a Hiroshi Sugimoto photograph of the Castro Theater and an artist’s proof of Man Ray’s mixedmedia work Trompe l’œuf. “Design and art complement each other just enough, so our worlds overlap, and we learn from each other.”

As for Béhar, he’s been able to work an obsession with 1970s design into most spaces throughout the house. “To me, [the era has] always been expressive and sometimes even political,” he explains. “There was this notion in the ’70s that society was changing, so the traditional norms of engagement—whether that was in a kitchen, a dining room or a living room—were being challenged. Designers of that period like Ubald Klug and Enzo Mari were really thinking about new ways people could engage with each other that [weren’t based on] formality, or traditional couch-andcoffee-table layouts.”

The overall result is an unpretentious,

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Clockwise from top left: The family’s dining room features a large-scale work by HUGH SCOTTDOUGLAS. An assemblage of meaningful artifacts, art and books collected

by Buell and Béhar over the years. Three of the couple’s four children in the entryway of the home, which showcases a wall clad in black anodized CNC-machined aluminum designed by Béhar.

Opposite: Buell and Béhar on the deck outside their bedroom, perched atop custom heated benches designed by Béhar for GALANTER & JONES.

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- Yves Behar “HisFeature focus was really on open spaces. Our bedroom doesn’t even have a door” SABRINA BUELL

comfortable space that vibes with the family’s laid-back lifestyle, complete with a highly coveted pair of vintage Klug Terrazza sofas that serve as a welcoming spot for guests or a competitive game night with the kids.

It also lends itself to special events hosted by the couple, who are avid supporters of the arts. Once, it was even turned into an immersive installation by performance artist and choreographer Adam Linder and the Wattis Institute for Contemporary Art. “He activated the entire house with dancers,” says Buell. “His pieces are all about labor, and how [we] paid to hire him to, in turn, hire dancers for the performance, and in the end the only [tangible piece of] artwork was a signed

contract for the labor that we framed.”

The couple’s shared passion for the arts has manifested itself in a number of ways in recent years, including Béhar’s design for the installation of Bay Area artist Ron Nagle’s 2020 exhibition, “Ron Nagle: Handsome Drifter,” at the UC Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive. They also actively support several other educational and cultural institutions, like the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, where Béhar currently serves as a trustee.

In fact, their home feels somewhat like a rotating installation, filled with meaningful mementos from family trips and an everchanging selection of artwork. “It’s always

evolving—and all of it is deeply, deeply personal,” Buell says wistfully. “Like the baby rattle that [artist] Tom Sachs made for us when one of our kids was born and figurines collected from trips to Indonesia—it’s all the personal stuff.”

Considering for a moment how his wife, like a true gallerist, moves artwork around on a regular basis, Béhar offers a last bit of commentary about how they view their world. “When you get attached to things, you can take them for granted—even if they’re beautiful and perfect in the space. So, in order to not lose appreciation for those things, I believe we have to use change as an instrument for keeping them fresh.” ●

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Feature - Yves Behar Above: A series of vignettes throughout the home are indicative of the family’s minimal yet eclectic design aesthetic. Right: Amplify pendant lights designed

by Béhar for SWAROVSKI hang above the entrance to the lower-lever guest suite.

To the left of the staircase is a console of anodized CNC-machined aluminum with a waterdrop motif, also designed by Béhar.

Opposite, clockwise from top: From the staircase leading to the third level, and through the JAKOB rubber mesh “fencing,” is a view into the open-concept kitchen and dining space. A diptych by artist MICHAEL PART reflects light above the custom-built shelving in the living room. Another family living space, adjacent to the kitchen and dining room, is accented by a gallery wall filled with works by artists like JOHN BALDESSARI, ROBERT CRUMB and RONI HORN.

THE COUTURIER WITH VERY GOOD TASTE Feature - Mabille

Paris’ Alexis Mabille has turned his hand to the interior of Caviar Kaspia’s L.A. outpost, sure to be the city’s most exclusive new hangout Words by DAN THAWLEY 116

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Couturier ALEXIS MABILLE. Opposite: The Fall/Winter 2022/2023 couture collection shown in Paris in July.

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ew establishments provoke a frozen-intime allure like the restaurant Caviar Kaspia—a bastion of Parisian nightlife culture that unites close to a century of Baltic fine dining with a hedonistic approach to after-hours entertaining. Witness to the ebb and flow of new aristocracies, haute bourgeoisie and glitterati since 1927, this veritable institution is renowned the world over for a suite of unmistakable signatures, from the cerulean blue tablecloths to the sparkling chalices of flavored vodka on ice, not to mention that caviar-laden baked potato.

Tucked away above its very own caviar emporium on the Place de la Madeleine, a stone’s throw from the Élysée Palace and the historic Hermès store on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, one of Paris’ most exclusive shopping streets, Caviar Kaspia harbors a singular magnetism—one that the French couturier and interior decorator Alexis Mabille discovered years ago. “I first went

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to Caviar Kaspia when I was working at Christian Dior for John Galliano,” he recalls as he unveils his architectural vision for the restaurant’s first West Coast outpost opening on Melrose Place in Los Angeles this fall.

“Eva Herzigová and her agent, Véronique Rampazzo, were celebrating the Orthodox New Year there with a group of friends, models, and I came along. It’s become an annual rendezvous,” he says. “At the time, it really fascinated me that in the same evening you might see Karl Lagerfeld or Lee Radziwill dining, and at another table some very popular French actors, rappers or the nouveau riche.”

Mabille learned to sew for fun as a boy growing up in Lyon. While at school he would design clothes for his friends and family and even made boxer shorts for his fellow students. Once he had completed his formal training at Paris’ Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, he cut his teeth at Ungaro and Nina Ricci before joining Dior, with Galliano taking him under his wing and entrusting him with accessories collections. It was under the British designer’s tutelage—and

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RUNWAY: VICTOR VIRGILE/RAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES. CAVIAR KASPIA L.A. RENDERINGS: MAOR COHEN RENDERS. PREVIOUS SPREAD: RUNWAY: THIERRY CHESNOT/GETTY IMAGES.

Lorem ipsum credit here.

“The idea is to integrate Caviar Kaspia in L.A. as if we were in Hollywood in the 1940s” ALEXIS MABILLE

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while he was simultaneously working for Hedi Slimane—that Mabille started to forge an idea for his own ultra-feminine brand of Paris haute couture, which he started in 2005 and showed for the first time at Haute Couture three years later.

The resplendent satin bows, plissé silks and rich, jewel-tone gowns you see today on the likes of Zendaya and Katy Perry fit the effervescent glamour of Caviar Kaspia to a T. In fact, it doesn’t take much imagination to see his swan-like clientele pushing smoked salmon blinis around a porcelain plate or cradling flutes of Dom Pérignon in their bejeweled, manicured hands, perfectly at home in the restaurant’s decadent decor of striped banquets and wood paneling.

A confessed “workaholic,” Mabille expanded into interiors and was asked by the Caviar Kaspia Group to refresh its Maison de la Truffe in Paris. And now he has once again joined forces with CEO Ramon Mac-Crohon, together with Kith co-founder Sam Ben-Avraham and former Iro exec Rahav Zuta, to transform 8475 Melrose Place, the space that once held the iconic restaurant Bastide, into a Caviar Kaspia. The location combines the restaurant’s intimate, heritage

connoisseurship with a boutique for local designer Maor Cohen’s upscale fine jewelry label M.Cohen (featuring interiors by Cohen). Joining new openings in London, St. Tropez and New York, Caviar Kaspia’s L.A. branch is sure to manifest its own notoriety in no time, with its seductive taste of Europe a decadent alternative to the city’s exclusive hot spots such as Mr Chow and San Vicente Bungalows.

“For Melrose Place, the idea is to preserve the traditions of Caviar Kaspia but to integrate it in L.A. as if we were in Hollywood in the 1940s—and to do it with extremely refined artisans,” says Mabille, whose touch extends through the restaurant’s lush garden courtyard and inside to the dining room for 60. “It’s a more minimal vision of Kaspia than in Paris.

Imagine lots of vegetation and sun umbrellas, marble lanterns and fabrics everywhere in Kaspia blue, but with harmonious accents in soft blues and teal.” Entering through an arched doorway and past the garden, guests are welcomed inside through a transitory loggia space—bringing the inside outside and vice versa with the internal focal point a

magnificent green marble-topped wraparound bar inlaid with oxidized and polished brass and wood paneling. Pointedly avoiding literal translations of its Parisian namesake, Mabille has opted for more isolated moments of historic grandeur, such as a round mosaic wall piece by the bar that reprises the famous sturgeon and square rigger motif of the original nearly 6,000 miles away.

Imagining the restaurant as a multifunctional space for day and night, summer and winter, Continued on p.126

From top: The Mabille-designed dining room at Le Boeuf sur le Toit in Paris. KATY PERRY at the 2018 amfAR Gala in L.A. ZENDAYA at the 2019 Vanity Fair and Lancôme Toast Women in Hollywood party. Opposite, from top: The designer takes a bow for the finale of the Fall/Winter 2022/2023 couture show. The signature blue table linens. Renderings of CAVIAR KASPIA L.A.

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The Pilates studio at HEIMAT in Los Angeles.

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LEVEL UP The five-floor members’ club Heimat will keep you fit, fed and cool as you lounge by the pool.

The question is, are you on the list?

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s it a gym? Is it a members’ club? No, it’s somewhere in between. With fitness and well-being at its core, Heimat has just landed on La Brea. Sat on a corner building in the Hollywood Media District—fast becoming Los Angeles’ buzziest what with Tartine, Gigi’s and Just One Eye— there are three cavernous floors devoted to free weights, cardio and functional training, with studios for Pilates, cycling, kinesis, boot camp and boxing classes, plus a spa offering massages, HydraFacials and IV treatments, not to mention a sauna. After a

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workout and some serious self-care, members can head to the fourth-floor rooftop pool where daybeds and poolside service await. If you really must work, the fifth floor is a sleek coworking area with views of the hills. On the pool level, awardwinning chef Michael Mina helms the indoor/outdoor restaurant Mother Tongue, which is open to the public, so anyone can get a glimpse of L.A.’s new fitness temple at full steam. 960 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 213-319-7849; heimat.com. A.B.

Clockwise from top left: The fourth-floor pool. The stairwell with its original graffiti. The relaxation room.

The club’s exterior. The ground-floor free weights room.

Beauty TERRI BRYANT (left) and SELMA BLAIR . Below: GUIDE BEAUTY fan brush, $26.

SPOTLESS INTEGRITY “This is a cleanser that makes you want to wash your face,” declares April Gargiulo, founder of the iconic California natural beauty brand Vintner’s Daughter. Its newest product, the Active Renewal Cleanser, is only its third skincare launch in nine years. “We began working on it almost four years ago,” Gargiulo shares.

“Everything we seek to create at Vintner’s Daughter is about fewer and better, so we challenged ourselves with the question: How could we create a game-changing, multi-beneficial cleansing step that lived up to our meticulous standards?” The result is a single-step, gently foaming cream cleanser that not only thoroughly cleanses the skin (daily build-up, sunscreen and makeup just melt away) but also leaves the skin soft, hydrated and pH balanced—perfectly prepped for the line’s brightening and hydration steps that follow. vintnersdaughter.com. K.A. VINTNER’S DAUGHTER Active Renewal Cleanser, $98.

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TAKING THE LEAD Actor, author and activist for accessibility Selma Blair is now the chief creative officer of the ability-inclusive brand Guide Beauty.

“We were introduced through a mutual friend. The connection was instant,” says veteran makeup artist and beauty educator Terri Bryant, who founded Guide Beauty in early 2020 after being diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease. Both she and Blair, who was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis in 2018, are reinventing how users apply cosmetics, designing products that keep dexterity and fine motor challenges in mind, with features such as curves and rings ergonomically placed to make gripping easier. Simple application for all. guidebeauty.com. K.A.

Founder NYAKIO GRIECO. Right: RELEVANT: YOUR SKIN SEEN One & Done sunscreen, $38.

SECRET POWERS Products you’ll be using on repeat in fall

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My Scent perfume, $65, jenniferfisherjewelry.com.

Élixir Exfoliant mask, $86, frenchfarmacie.com.

Bisou Balm lipstick, $25, violettefr.com.

Beauty RARE BEAUTY

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Soft Pinch Liquid Blush, $20, rarebeauty.com.

Perfect Nacht Sleeping Balm, $90, bynacht.com.

Mascara Le Sérum, $45, Leather Sleeve, $60, laboucherougeparis.com.

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The Regenerative Serum, $325, eighthdayskin.com.

Peptide Glazing Fluid, $29, rhodeskin.com.

Hildegaard Rose face oil, $495, hildegaard.life.

BEAUTIFUL ONE “As a Black woman in the beauty industry, I’m on a mission to ensure everyone protects their beautiful skin,” states Nyakio Grieco, who recently launched her third venture, Relevant: Your Skin Seen.

Her newest brand joins her eponymous award-winning line, Nyakio, based on her family’s Kenyan beauty secrets, and Thirteen Lune, her e-commerce destination highlighting beauty brands created by Black and Brown founders.

The first product from the Relevant collection is One & Done Everyday Cream with SPF 40, a four-in-one lightweight treatment that aims to simplify skincare, replacing daily sunscreen, moisturizer, serum and primer. Formulated with a potent blend of super fruit antioxidants and a broad-spectrum, mineralbased SPF, the product leaves no white residue on the lightest to darkest skin tones. “I was able to help create a brand that is truly for everyone,” says Greico, “while keeping true to my upbringing by offering clean, plantbased beauty products.” relevantskin.com. K.A.

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The everlasting allure of Careyes, Mexico’s secluded Pacific-coast paradise

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all in Costa Careyes, Mexico, sees a whirlwind of social events drawing an international crowd, from the opening of polo season to the Ondalinda festival—Lulu Luchaire’s boho-luxe celebration of music, culture and wellness rituals aimed at creating “metaphysical magic.” But beyond grand affairs, Careyes and its intoxicating coastal beauty have been attracting visitors for decades, a setting the late Gian Franco Brignone fell in love with when he first founded the exclusive resort back in 1968.

The Italian-born former banker and real estate developer established Careyes as a sybaritic retreat for his like-minded, well-heeled, art- and nature-loving friends. Now, over 50 years later, the property has prospered into a luxury private beach resort comprised of “ocean castles,” private villas, casitas and condos with both seasonal and full-time residents.

Earlier this year, the Careyes community gathered in the town plaza to pay tribute to Brignone, who had passed away a few weeks earlier at the age of 95. His successors (daughter Emanuela and sons Giorgio and Filippo), along with the development’s partners, have committed to preserving his legacy and continuing his vision for the 20,000-plus-acre opus on Mexico’s jungled Costalegre in Jalisco.

The latest project is Punta Careyes, a 60-hectare development of cliff-top and hillside lots awaiting a new generation of homeowners. The first of its kind in decades, the property has no doubt caught the eyes of Californians, who appreciate Careyes’ proximity, serenity and alluring beauty.

The appeal of Careyes is endless: There’s the singular community, the joyous lifestyle of parties, water sports, boating, horseback riding and yoga. There’s a sea turtle sanctuary, an art gallery, polo, Ondalinda, a film festival. There are a handful

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From top: Leah Forester and Bill Johnson’s newly renovated CASA LA HUERTA. Concrete installation COPA DEL SOL. Colorful hallways of the CASITAS DE LAS FLORES. Careyes hosts world-class polo. Opposite, from top: The CAREYES coastline. The ONDALINDA festival takes place each November. SOL DE ORIENTE is one of the treasured “ocean castles.”

of sophisticated restaurants and the Barragán-pink Playa Rosa Beach Club, an open-air social hub that serves up sublime ceviche and margaritas.

But it goes beyond that. Brignone’s Careyes is by design a dreamscape celebration of nature and creativity, a meta fantasyland of art installations, cliff-top “castles” encircled by infinity pools, palapa-style villas and vibrant Casitas de las Flores.

In creating his vision, Brignone teamed up with Guadalajara architect Marco Aldaco, who drew inspiration from organic materials, Mexico’s gravity-defying palapas and modernist Luis Barragán. Brignone brought to the collaboration an artist’s obsession with light, scale, wildly saturated color, the cosmos and mythology. At once ethereal and grounded, the Careyes style continued to evolve with architects like Diego Villaseñor and Mexico City-born, Careyes-based Alex Pössenbacher.

A recent revamp of an early Careyes villa, Casa La Huerta, explores light, sound and mystical archetypes. The L.A.-based owners and long-time visitors enlisted Pössenbacher and L.A. designer Raven Kauffman to help them reimagine the palapastyle villa. The result is a surrealist’s dream awash in atypical neutrals that play with light, reveling in such details as a geodestudded tequila bar and a tile coiled snake on the pool floor.

It takes just one visit to fall under Careyes’ spell. X

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WHAT ARE YOU WEARING TO THE METAVERSE? impressive financial results further down the line.

But more than money, it is a way to curry favor with a new generation of fickle consumers. In an interview with The Business of Fashion, Ian Rogers, the Apple bigwig and former chief digital officer at luxury conglomerate LVMH, called this obsession with the metaverse “inevitable” and a “generational shift.” It reflects, he said, Gen Z’s desire to not merely own but display their bounty online, a byproduct of our social media era. “Having a digital collection is completely natural,” Rogers said. “Why would I want a collection of stuff that no one can see when I can have a collection of digital stuff that everyone can see?”

Maria Rugolo, an apparel industry analyst at the market research firm The NPD Group, points out that metaverse fashion attracts the exact type of consumer luxury brands need to survive: young early adopters.

“There are a lot of figures out there as to how big this space will become, but the net-net is that it is growing,” she says. “The expectation is for it to be even bigger in luxury, as it can combat some counterfeiting through digital ownership. And while no one knows where it will truly go, it is something that is happening in real time, making it important to keep a pulse on.”

Despite all the excitement, there’s a feeling that we’re merely at the tip of a very large iceberg. With all this boundless creative opportunity, designers are, at this point, still mostly making digital facsimiles of real-life designs (think of Thom Browne’s choice for Meta—a gray suit). “A lot of luxury brands are trying their best to dive into the metaverse, but they’re missing the mark,” says John Aghayan, founder and CEO of EMCEE, an online marketplace that enables influencers to connect consumers to products. With a background in both technology and retail, Aghayan is uniquely able to see the landscape’s full potential and how shopping will become an immersive experience where content creators (i.e., influencers) will serve as our guides. At their best, fashion brands sell a dream, but in the metaverse, Aghayan believes they’re too focused on just selling computer-generated

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sneakers—at least for now. “They’re making skins, NFTs and their own coins, but they’re not putting in the work on the storytelling or the ‘why’ behind their strategy.”

“There are zero limitations to design in a virtual world,” Aghayan continues. “And I think that’s why so many people get it wrong. The designers who are doing it right are completely disrupting the space and reinventing what fashion is by not following any of the limitations of ‘real’ life.” Fashion without the limitations of real life? Beam us up. •

Continued from p.119

THE COUTURIER WITH VERY GOOD TASTE Mabille’s deconstructed concept includes a sort of “caviar lounge” with plush sofas surrounding a fireplace, allowing guests to experience an after-hours club atmosphere for those L.A. nights when a formal dinner feels just a little stiff. While a second courtyard can be cordoned off with a discreet curtain and booked for private rooms (Oscars after-party, anyone?), the general premise is a sinuous space joined by travertine floors that allow guests to transition from bar to lounge to dining room. “As it’s on the ground floor and a half-level up, it really feels like a sort of house and garden,” says Mabille, “So there is a feeling of being outside all the time in this place with a very fresh vibe.”

Keen not to create any first-degree associations between his burgeoning interiors business and his well-established fashion aesthetic, Mabille approaches Caviar Kaspia retaining his own sense of frivolity but with a restrained, Art Deco polish that favors California cool over any hint of Parisian kitsch. “Personally I’ve always designed to echo a lifestyle, so whether it’s a dress, a piece of furniture or an interior, it has to all live together,” he muses, citing Ralph Lauren’s coherent universe as an inspiration for the way people and clothes can exist in harmony with a space without mirroring it entirely. “My clients have traveled all around the world and I’ve had the opportunity to see incredible places with them, and now I am interested in imagining those spaces too.

Of course, through fashion I have honed

my appetite for textiles and color, but also construction and geometry and how a volume can evoke a certain mood.”

Design aside, Mabille knows better than most that Caviar Kaspia’s charm is its people, and its people-watching too. “The staff are like a little black book,” he laughs.

“No matter where you are in the world, at a Caviar Kaspia restaurant, you can be sure that you will see interesting people. The staff are so talented they will know how to seat an infamous couple at just the right table, or perhaps Rihanna nearby a Chanel Haute Couture client or a serious business dinner.

It’s that composition of the clients and the staff that creates a special twist and a unique ambience next to what is essentially a very classic, luxurious concept.” •

Runover

From top: A rendering of CAVIAR KASPIA L.A. by Maor Cohen Renders. The famous baked potato with caviar.

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Malibu Beach Inn

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ZEN

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trainer Brian Nguyen has taught me a lot about power, strength, flexibility and mobility.

Favorite treatments?

A colonic. The healthiest and best thing we should be doing is understanding our gut.

Where do you take visiting friends?

I love Healdsburg and Sonoma. We would do the wine thing because we have some of the best wines in the world.

KATE HUDSON The L.A. native, actor and entrepreneur has joined forces with Juice Beauty on a new skincare collection Where do you live?

Los Angeles, towards the ocean.

I’m an ocean dweller.

Where do you feel most zen?

I feel most zen in the water.

I’m all fire.

Favorite hike?

The Ray Miller Backbone Trail right before Oxnard where Danny [Fujikawa] proposed to me.

Favorite relaxing getaway?

I go to Palm Desert; that desert energy, the negative ions, whatever is happening—I just completely recharge.

Favorite skincare?

When I’ve been working out a lot or I’ve been wearing a lot of makeup I use the Kate Hudson ♥ Juice Beauty Clarifying Toning Cocktail Concentrate. I use Hydrating Radiance when I need an extra boost. I really love to mix and match using the Revitalizing Acacia + Rose Powder Mask and the serums.

Right now, I’m also loving Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil.

S C O V E R I E S

Zen Moments Favorite health food fix?

My InBloom supplements. Brain Flow literally wakes your brain up with lion’s mane and ashwagandha.

Do you follow a diet?

I lean towards mostly plantbased, Mediterranean type of food. Intermittent fasting has changed my energy levels, my metabolism and even my strength training. I feel stronger.

Favorite hotels?

Hotel Bel-Air is romantic and tucked away, and Post Ranch Inn speaks to me the most of all the hotels in California.

Favorite class?

When I was a little girl, my mom [Goldie Hawn] used to go take ’80s aerobic dance classes. Then for some reason it died out, and Tracy Anderson brought that back— but with a lot more knowledge and understanding of the body.

[And] functional movement

Favorite flowers?

Sunflower fields take my breath away.

What book are you reading?

I’m learning about ikigai—a Japanese philosophy about understanding your life’s purpose, which is believed to be the key to longevity—through How to Ikigai by Tim Tamashiro.

Favorite musicians?

Haim and Brandi Carlile’s newest records, and Lucius has a song that they did with Sheryl Crow and Brandi called “Dance Around It”—so good!

Favorite podcast?

Huberman Lab. [The host, Dr. Andrew Huberman, is] a Stanford professor, and I just learn so much from his podcast. 2

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