C California Style

FALL’S BEST

The ultimate West Coast ACCESSORY RUNWAY REPORTS SEEING IS BELIEVING

Inside ARTIST Doug Aitken’s UNIVERSE

THE

Fashion ISSUE

Cover

S E PT E M B E R 2 01 6 $5.99

Emily Ratajkowski shines in the season’s HEAVY METALS

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SEPTEMBER 2016

216

Features 174 ALL EYES ON EMILY With the world watching, model, actor and social media phenom Emily Ratajkowski makes her mark on fashion, film and feminism.

TOC 1

184 ELECTRIC AVENUE Stroll down Venice Beach’s iconic boardwalk in fall’s bold prints, decadent creating only the chicest of shock waves.

174

196 MAN OF THE HOUR For more than two decades artist Doug Aitken has pushed the boundaries of what

196

art is and what it does. With his first North American survey on the horizon, the artist engages his past in a way only he can—by redefining it.

206 COTTON CLUB In a clever play on classic men’s shirting, designers add a modern, deconstructed twist to the perennial mix of masculine and feminine.

216 VALLEY HIGHS Kirsten Dunst and Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy aim their cameras toward Napa during a snap-happy girls getaway in wine country.

C 52 SEPTEMBER 2016

On Our Cover

EMILY RATAJKOWSKI wearing a BALMAIN top and skirt, TIFFANY & CO. earring, and VHERNIER rings. PHOTOGRAPHED BY Beau Grealy. STYLED

BY Alison Edmond. HAIR Christian Wood for Christophe Robin at The Wall Group. MAKEUP Fiona Stiles at Starworks Artists for Fiona Stiles Beauty.

NAILS Emi Kudo at Opus Beauty for Dior Vernis.

“COTTON CLUB” (P206): RALPH MECKE. “ELECTRIC AVENUE” (P.184): CHRISTIAN ANWANDER. “VALLEY HIGHS” (P.216): KIRSTEN DUNST AND RODARTE SISTERS. “MAN OF THE HOUR” (P.198): SAMUEL FROST. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.222

184

weaves and powerful accessories—

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Tod’s

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CONTENTS

Departments 68 FOUNDER’S LETTER Breaking fashion boundaries.

72 C PEOPLE Who’s who behind the scenes of C.

84 #CMYCALIFORNIA

104

Garance Doré’s Golden State photo diary.

91 C WHAT’S HOT

92

Stella McCartney hits the road to fete a new fragrance. SingleThread plants roots in Healdsburg. A surreal museum is reborn in PROENZA SCHOULER Fall/Winter 2016.

Monterey. Natalie Joos plays favorites.

115 C FASHION Fall’s Westward-leaning runway trends.

Colette Jewelry lands in La La Land.

137 C BEAUTY Adir Abergel and Kate Lee reveal their beauty secrets. Hot new treatment: healing water pods.

TOC 2

145 C DESIGN

162

Alison Berger’s glowing career. Your coffee table will thank us: the season’s best design titles.

153 C MENU At SFMOMA’s In Situ, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Candace Nelson’s pizza party.

161 C TRAVEL There’s more to Marfa than meets the eye.

115

Bungalow living at the Beverly Hills Hotel.

167 C CULTURE Why printmaking studio Gemini G.E.L. lures the art world’s biggest names. A provocative new show in the Presidio.

222 SHOPPING GUIDE 224 WHEN IN Boho-luxe threads fit for San Fran.

226 PHOTO FINISH Actor Sarah Gadon gets into our heads.

C 58 SEPTEMBER 2016

167

156

SINGLETHREAD (P.156): AUBRIE PICK. ROY LICHTENSTEIN HEAD (P.167): 1980 7-COLOR WOODCUT AND EMBOSSING 101.6 × 85.7 CM (40 × 33¾ IN.) HEAD © 1980 ROY LICHTENSTEIN AND GEMINI G.E.L. FOOD (P.156): JESSICA SAMPLE

The fashion world hearts David Bowie.

Gucci

Maje

Maje

Bloomingdales

Bloomingdales

JENNIFER HALE

Founder & Editorial Director LESLEY CAMPOY

President & Publisher JENNY MURRAY

Editor

JAMES TIMMINS

RENEE MARCELLO

Art Director

Associate Publisher

ALISON EDMOND

CRISTA VAGHI

Fashion Director

Executive Director, Southern California

KELSEY McKINNON

AVERY TRAVIS

Senior Editor

Executive Luxury Director

ANDREA STANFORD

DEBBIE FLYNN

Design & Interiors Editor

Beauty & Home Director

ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER

AUTUMN O’KEEFE

MARGOT FODOR

ANNE MARIE PROVENZA

Arts & Culture Editor

Northwest Director

Photo Editor

Sales Development Manager

Masthead

REBECCA RUSSELL

KRISTA NATALI

Market Editor

Marketing Manager

ROBERT RICHMOND

TROY FELKER

Digital Image Specialist

Finance Associate

LINDSAY KINDELON

SANDY HUBBARD

Associate Editor

Information Technology Director

DANIELLE DiMEGLIO

Assistant Editor

LESLEY McKENZIE

Deputy Editor

San Francisco Editor-at-Large Diane Dorrans Saeks Contributing Editor-at-Large Kendall Conrad Senior Contributing Editor Melissa Goldstein Contributing Digital Editor Elizabeth Varnell Contributing Photo Assistant Chad Weaver Contributing Designer Gabrielle Mirkin Copy Editors Richard Cordova, Lily Maximo Villanueva Special Projects Contributor Stephanie Steinman

Contributing Editors Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith, Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson Contributing Writers Schuyler Bailey, Catherine Bigelow, Caroline Cagney, Heather John Fogarty, Marshall Heyman, Emily Holt, Christine Lennon, Martha McCully, Degen Pener, Jessica Ritz, S. Irene Virbila

Contributing Photographers Christian Anwander, David Cameron, Francesco Carozzini, Roger Davies, Amanda Demme, Lisa Eisner, Douglas Friedman, Sam Frost, Beau Grealy, Kurt Iswarienko, JR Mankoff, Ralph Mecke, David Roemer, Lisa Romerein, Jan Welters Interns Emma Ashworth, Emma Gerber, Natalie Burger, Ashley Ekstrum, Meredith Frazier C PUBLISHING LLC

TEYMOUR BOUTROS-GHALI

Chairman

ANDY NELSON

Chief Financial Officer

C MAGAZINE 1543 Seventh Street, 2nd Floor, Santa Monica, CA 90401, 310-393-3800 SUBSCRIBER SERVICE 800-775-3066

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Fe n d i B o u t i q u e s 646 520 2830 Fe n d i .co m

J Brand

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J Brand

FOUNDER’S LETTER

There are so many elements that have contributed to California’s establishment as a fashion-world power player. I often like to brag about the amazing designers created in our midst (hello Rodarte, The Elder Statesman, J.C. Obando and Monique Lhuillier, to name a few). Not to mention the illustrious crew of streetstyle stars and bloggers whose feeds serve as a constantly changing billboard for coastal cool, forecasting personal style with a carefree attitude.

The way this manifests in fashion is as diverse as the state itself. In this fashionobsessed issue of C, our portfolios highlight these different moods—sensibilities that have captured the attention of influencers from New York to Paris—with amazing options for all. From bohemian vibes in Venice to structured shirting in San Francisco, we harness the essence of West Coast dressing.

If anyone embodies the California look, it’s Emily Ratajkowski, raised in San Diego and now residing in Los Angeles. She first caught our attention in Robin Thicke’s “Blurred Lines” video three years ago, and we’ve been mesmerized ever since. A fast-rising star in the modeling and acting world, Ratajkowski has also become a powerful voice in the feminist sphere. She’s got style and substance in spades, as proven in this month’s cover story.

And speaking of influencers in our midst, we also shine a spotlight on pioneering multimedia artist Doug Aitken. Ahead of his MOCA show opening this month, the California native and art-world tour de force invites us into his Westside studio and residence, which is just as thought-provoking and surreal as you would imagine.

We’ve combed the state to find new designers, new stores, and the trends to keep top of mind, and highlighted the best of the season within this issue.

And of course, like the state itself, C continues to evolve: from our new feature, #CmyCalifornia, kicking off with a day in the life of photographer/illustrator/ writer Garance Doré, to our new back page, Photo Finish, which focuses on the need-to-know faces in entertainment, technology, music and beyond. It seemed only fitting that for its debut installment, featuring actor Sarah Gadon, we clad her in the Golden State’s unofficial and ever-versatile uniform of denim—a trend that, like many others, originated in the West.

Here’s to breaking new style boundaries this season.

Founder’s Letter

JENNIFER HALE

We’d love to hear from you. Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.

C 68 SEPTEMBER 2016

JAN WELTERS

Founder & Editorial Director

Van Cleef & Arpels

Mitchell Gold

FEATURING: WHITLEY SOFA AND CHAIR, ANSEL CHAIR, ASTOR NESTING COCKTAIL TABLE, BEVERLY SIDE TABLE, CECE PULL-UP TABLE, MILA LAMPS, CHERRY BLOSSOM WALL ART, PEDESTAL DISH, AGATE TRIVET, SYMMETRY RUG

OUR MODERN EVOLUTION FA L L 2 016 CO L L E C T I O N

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C PEOPLE Who’s who behind the scenes of this month’s issue, plus their favorite California places

“The September issue is my first as fashion director of C, and aside from joining the magazine mid-season—so having to direct eight shoots in four weeks!—it has been one of the most enjoyable experiences of my career,” muses Alison Edmond, who comes to C after after holding editorial posts at British Vogue, both British and U.S. editions of Harper’s Bazaar, and countless others.

C SPOTS • deKor & Co. in Ojai for home goods and jewelry, and it has an amazing tea bar • Ojai Valley Inn & Spa—time stands still there • Okumura Restaurant in Encino for the best sushi in L.A.

Laura and Kate Mulleavy “We loved traveling to Napa after completing our Fall/Winter 2016 collection,” says Kate Mulleavy, one half of the sartorial force behind luxury label Rodarte with her sister Laura. The duo share their wine-country sojourn with “third sister” Kirsten Dunst in “Valley Highs,” p.216. “It was such a relaxing experience after the adrenaline that builds leading up to the runway show,” adds Laura. C SPOTS • Virgil Normal in L.A.—our friends Shirley Kurata and Charlie Staunton have an incredibly fun store • Caravan Book Store—a magnificent West and Pacific Northwest bookstore in DTLA • Seeing films at the old silent theater The Cinefamily in L.A.

C People 1

Beau Grealy “The shoot was so relaxed and she made it so easy that we had time to surf afterward,” says Australian lensman Beau Grealy of photographing Emily Ratajkowski at Harry Gesner’s Sandcastle house in Malibu for this month’s cover story, “All Eyes on Emily,” p.174. The Topanga-based photographer’s work has appeared in Vogue and ID, and past clients include Adidas, Nike, H&M and Zimmermann. C SPOTS • Cholada—I love this shack on PCH, which has the best Thai food • The Cove Skatepark Santa Monica, where my son and I go to skate and watch the pros • Little Big Man Gallery in DTLA

Victoria Brito Ralph Mecke “I’m so happy to work with [C fashion director] Alison Edmond again after some years,” says Berlin native Ralph Mecke, who captured the season’s sophisticated shirting styles in “Cotton Club,” p.206. Now based in Paris and New York, Mecke’s work spans portraitures—from actor Keira Knightley to Olympian Usain Bolt—fashion and beauty in publications such as French and American Vogue. C SPOTS • Tartine Bakery in S.F. for Chad [Robertson]’s bread • The best beef jerky at Sonoma County Meat Co. in Santa Rosa • Saltwater taffy in Bodega Bay

C 72 SEPTEMBER 2016

Brazilian-born beauty Victoria Brito dons the season’s most eclectic, bohemian styles in “Electric Avenue,” p.184. When New York-based Brito isn’t posing for the pages of Interview, Nylon, Allure, Paper and Marie Claire, she’s growing her writing, producing and singing career. Her mantra? “Always have fun. If you’re not having fun, then it’s not worth it.” C SPOTS • Bootsy Bellows nightclub in West Hollywood— it’s on my go-to list for the parties and the music, especially hip-hop night • Pink Taco in L.A.—I love this place!

• Venice Beach for great food, a henna tattoo and people watching

EDMOND: J. R. MANKOFF. MULLEAVYS: AUTUMN DE WILDE. GREALY: ALISON EDMOND. MECKE: ANNA G. GANTCHEVA. BRITO: KASPAR JACK PHOTOGRAPHY

Alison Edmond

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C PEOPLE Who’s who behind the scenes of this month’s issue, plus their favorite California places

Christian Anwander

C People 2 Indya Love Stewart As the daughter of musician Dave Stewart and fine-arts photographer Anoushka Fisz, Indya Love Stewart was destined for a creative path. For C ’s fall fashion portfolio “Cotton Club,” p.206, the L.A.based 14-year-old models in her firstever fashion shoot: “There was not one dull moment. I worked with a gorgeous model, Josefien Rodermans, who made the shoot so much more comfortable for me; it was just an amazing experience,” says Stewart. C SPOTS • Grand Central Market in DTLA for its restaurants and little markets • SoulCycle in L.A. to work out. Everyone there is very inspirational and helps you really focus • Brandy Melville in L.A.—everything is simple, but also really cute

C 76 SEPTEMBER 2016

Kirsten Dunst “I would love to go back with my mom and eat and drink myself full again!” says actor Kirsten Dunst of her Napa Valley trip with Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte, documented in “Valley Highs,” p.216. Dunst will next appear in Hidden Figures, out in January. She will make her feature film directorial debut with an adaptation of Sylvia Plath’s The Bell Jar, which starts shooting early next year.

C SPOTS • The SmokeHouse in Burbank is great for dancing on a Friday night, and feels like you went back in time • The Magic Castle in Hollywood • Bootlegger Tiki bar in Palm Springs plays ’90s hiphop and has the best drinks ever

Candace Nelson “It’s ‘neo-Neapolitan’ pizza because we use local products in a neapolitan tradition to create something that’s perfect for Southern California,” says Sprinkles Cupcakes founder Candace Nelson, who opens her home in “Slices of Heaven,” p.156, to give friends a sneak peek at her latest culinary endeavor, Pizzana. Nelson will release her first cookbook, The Sprinkles Baking Book: 100 Secret Recipes From Candace’s Kitchen, this fall. C SPOTS • Odys + Penelope in L.A. has a great NYC vibe • Garde home and design store in L.A. is always packed with special finds • Blum & Poe art gallery in L.A. for my favorite ceramicist, Shio Kusaka

Alison Berger “I wanted to have a conversation with the reader: This is what I would be saying to you if you were in my studio, not just a one-way dialogue,” says glass designer Alison Berger of the inspiration behind her forthcoming book, Alison Berger: Glass and Light, featured with her new illuminating design in “At First Light,” p.145. C SPOTS • Hirozen, an amazing Japanese restaurant in West Hollywood • Arcana: Books on the Arts in Culver City is one of the bestcurated art/architecture bookstores in the world • Beverly Hot Springs in L.A for sneaking away to decompress and recharge

ANWANDER: LAURENS ROSSNER. NELSON: AMY NEUNSINGER. STEWART: TAIMANE AVEAU. DUNST: ALEXEI HAY. BERGER: MONICA MAY

“I love Venice Beach…It’s one of the best people-watching spots on the planet,” says Austria native Christian Anwander, who photographed “Electric Avenue” (p.184) on Venice’s storied boardwalk. Anwander has captured famous names like Zoë Kravitz, Daft Punk and Nicki Minaj for the likes of Complex, Glamour and GQ and is currently working on a book of celebrity portraits. C SPOTS • General Sherman— the biggest tree in the world—in the Giant Forest of Sequoia National Park • Raffi’s Place in Glendale for the best Persian food • Chateau Marmont in West Hollywood for a couple of cocktails

Las Vegas San Francisco South Coast Plaza Two Rodeo Drive www.brunellocucinelli.com

Brunello Cucinelli

We love Codices, the ancient messengers of Art and Culture.

Illuminated page from “Pantheon� by Godfrey of Viterbo, Italy, 1331

NORDSTROM

Fashion Island

where

casual-chic

m e et s

i n n e w p o rt b e a c h

the coast

50 YEARS

Fashi on Island cel ebr ates 50 years of sty l e and taste!

Nei m an M arcus, B loom i n gdale’s,

Fashion Island

Nor d strom, Macy’s a n d ov er 2 00 speci a lty stores a n d r estaurants on the coast.

Sty l e Week O C S e pt e m b e r 1 5 - 1 7 S t y l e W e e k O C . c om

ANTH ROPOLOGIE

Photography shot on location at The Resort at Pelican Hill. © The Irvine Company LLC, 2016.

All Rights Reserved.

Fashion Island is a registered trademark of Irvine Company.

B E L M O N D E L E N C A N T O , S A N TA B A R B A R A

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HOTEL S | TR AI NS | R I V ER C R U I S ES | J O U R NE YS | B EL MO ND.CO M

MAGAZINEC.COM

The September Issue

BTS Double DOWN

SLAM Dunk

ALL That GLITTERS

MR. Right Now

GIRLS Weekend

Wall FLOWER

Models Indya Love Stewart (left) and Josefien Rodermans are cut from the same cloth, sporting the season’s new shirting in “Cotton Club,” p.206.

Known for having his finger on the pulse, artist Doug Aitken gives us a studio tour in the run-up to his MOCA show (“Man of the Hour,” p.196).

C 82 SEPTEMBER 2016

On the Venice Beach boardwalk, model Victoria Brito, photographer Christian Anwander and the C team hold court in “Electric Avenue,” p.184.

Designer Laura Mulleavy and actor Kirsten Dunst are all smiles at Yountville culinary landmark The French Laundry (“Valley Highs,” p.216).

Along the Malibu shoreline, photographer Beau Grealy captures cover beauty Emily Ratajkowski in this season’s glistening ensembles (“All Eyes on Emily,” p.174).

Actor Sarah Gadon strikes a pose for the first of C’s new back-page series, Photo Finish, which features the talents on our radar every month.

“COTTON CLUB” (P.206), “ALL EYES ON EMILY” (P.174), PHOTO FINISH (P.226): ALISON EDMOND. “MAN OF THE HOUR” (P.196): SAM FROST. “VALLEY HIGHS” (P.216): KATE MULLEAVY

Log on to MAGAZINEC.COM for more on the FALL FASHION issue and to sign up for the csocialfront.com newsletter to get the INSIDE SCOOP on parties, designers and trendsetters sent straight to your inbox

Promotion

C NOW

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TADASHI SHOJI Enjoy a visually exciting shopping experience at the newly opened Tadashi Shoji Concept Boutique at Glendale Galleria in Glendale, CA. A creative vision from fashion designer Tadashi Shoji, the 2,200-square-foot concept boutique features a sequence of experimental art installations with fashion-forward designs. Prepare to be transported to an enchanting retail space unlike anything ever experienced before. tadashishoji.com.

C Now

SF SYMPHONY Kick off the San Francisco Symphony season at the Opening Night Gala on Sept. 7 with Michael Tilson Thomas, our worldclass Orchestra, exciting guest artists, and the party of the year.

Featuring soprano Renée Fleming as she makes a triumphant return to the Davies stage, along with acclaimed mezzo-soprano Susan Graham. Visit sfsymphony.org/gala for details.

FASHION ISLAND NEWPORT BEACH Style Week Orange County returns exclusively to Fashion Island Sept. 15-17 with runway shows and in-store parties to showcase fall’s hottest trends from Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Anthropologie, Rebecca Taylor, Trina Turk, Halston Heritage and more. Don’t miss out on meet-and-greets with top SoCal style influencers such as Devon Rachel, Carrie Bradshaw Lied, The Style Riot, The Style Diaries and Lyndi in the City. styleweekoc.com.

#CmyCALIFORNIA

Snapshots of THE GOLDEN STATE, through the eyes of its BIGGEST FANS

Edited by LINDSAY KINDELON

“My ultimate dream car!”

GARANCE Doré

“CALIFORNIA reminds me of home,” says the Corsica native and New York-based photographer, illustrator and author. “To me it is the BEST OF both worlds— American lifestyle with the PROXIMITY OF NATURE.” This year, Doré celebrates A DECADE of her eponymous style blog, beloved for its inimitable blend of JOIE DE VIVRE and DOWNTOWN COOL. garancedore.com.

“It’s all about the details.”

8458 Melrose Pl., W.H., 323-285-2000; ireneneuwirth.com.

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“A magical place.

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CMYC “Perfect pool for laps before a morning meeting.”

9360 Wilshire Blvd., B.H., 310-273-1400; sixtyhotels.com/beverly-hills.

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“Such a unique, fun place to go shopping.”

1801 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 310-751-6393; shop-generalstore.com.

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Versace

Edited by KELSEY McKINNON

COURTESY OF STELLA M c CARTNEY

WH (opener)

From left: GRIMES, KENYA KINSKI-JONES, AMANDLA STENBERG and LOURDES “LOLA” LEON star in the POP campaign video shot by director Melina Matsoukas.

In Essence FOUR INDEPENDENT muses cruise the California desert

for STELLA McCARTNEY’S new POP fragrance campaign

SEPTEMBER 2016 C 91

WHAT’S HOT

Designer STELLA MCCARTNEY on set for the new video campaign. POP eau de parfum, $72/1.6 oz.

Stella McCartney’s Pop fragrance campaign video follows four friends on a road trip through the California desert in a pink Cadillac with a built-in pool. “It’s about capturing that exciting time when you are finding yourself and coming into your own,” says the designer, who met with her cast—musician Grimes (Claire Boucher), actor Amandla Stenberg, animal activist and model Kenya Kinski-Jones, and performing-arts student (and Madonna’s

daughter) Lourdes Leon—prior to filming to explain her vision and finalize the wardrobe (pastel ’90s-style slip dresses she designed for the shoot). “Stella was very clear about us being ourselves and not forcing anything,” says L.A.-based Kinski-Jones. “We’re all quite different, so it was cool to create a harmony.”

Equally unique is Pop’s bright, modern composition of tuberose and sandalwood. sephora.com. • CAROLINE CAGNEY

Inside the new VANESSA SEWARD boutique. Left: A look from Fall/Winter 2016.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

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Paris-based fashion designer Vanessa Seward (who once assisted Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and Tom Ford at Yves Saint Laurent) is marking the U.S. debut of her eponymous boutique with a locale on Melrose Place.

Designed by Gallic architect Laurent Deroo, the L.A. flagship mirrors her Paris storefronts with marbled stone floors and blue lacquered displays. An expansive skylight illuminates Seward’s ’70s glamour-driven ready-to-wear collections, figure-hugging denim, shoes and custom jewelry. For the opening, the store will carry a limitededition “L.A. me voilà” T-shirt—French for “L.A., here I am.” 8407 Melrose Pl., W.H., 323-230-6662; vanessaseward.com.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

PHILIPPE HIQUILY copper and wood Pedestal tables at LECLAIREUR, prices upon request. The French-revival facade.

EURO STAR French avant-garde design emporium LECLAIREUR lands stateside this month in a Haussmann-style manse on Robertson.

Led by Meryl Hadida Shabani, the Beverly Hills-based daughter of the brand’s founders, the new three-story retail concept is a decor lover’s dream, stocking Zaha Hadid’s “Z” stainless-steel chair, handblown Venetian lamps by Aristide Najean, and a trove of Fornasetti pieces. Says Shabani, “It’s a boundaryless concept—a space where everything is allowed, but design is, and remains, at the heart of it.” 450 N. Robertson Blvd., W.H.; leclaireur.com.

SAN FRANCISCO

Checking In This month, S.F.’s up-and-coming Tenderloin lands another buzzworthy resident: The Tilden Hotel. The 116-room, two-suite boutique getaway from Point Hospitality Group takes over the former Hotel Mark Twain with a redesign by Studio Tack, whose modern edge offsets the 1928 facade. Handcrafted furniture is coupled with paintings of native California flora from botanical artist Jenny Kiker. Plus, Mo Hodges and Brian Felley of watering hole Benjamin Cooper are whipping up a new bar-focused restaurant serving seasonal confections and a stellar craft cocktail menu. 345 Taylor St., S.F., 415-673-2332; tildenhotel.com.

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JENNY KIKER paintings hang in the newly updated rooms at THE TILDEN HOTEL.

WRITTEN BY DANIELLE D I MEGLIO AND LINDSAY KINDELON. POP (2): COURTESY OF STELLA M C CARTNEY. SEWARD BOUTIQUE: TAIYO WATANABE. TILDEN: AUBRIE PICK

French Kiss

Cle de Peau

COSTA MESA

From left: EDIE PARKER x THE WEBSTER “Cali” Jean clutch in Webster Pink, $1,215. LAURE HÉRIARD DUBREUIL. ANYA HINDMARCH x THE WEBSTER Leather Flamingo sticker, $75.

The Webster’s Miami boutique.

Mix Master When Paris-born Laure Hériard Dubreuil opened South Beach boutique The Webster in 2009, she wanted to inject style into an otherwise bikini-centric city: “I couldn’t find anything exclusive and special, while remaining fashion forward,” she says.

This month, she opens her first California outpost at South Coast Plaza, outfitted with vintage furniture by Milo Baughman and Kazuhide Takahama, and housing designer brands like Loewe and Raf Simons— plus exclusive collaborations including an Edie Parker box clutch and Anya Hindmarch stickers. There are also pieces

by Dubreuil’s husband, artist Aaron Young: “I consider them to be our lucky charms!” she says. 333 Bristol St., Ste. 2889, C.M., 305-674-7899, Ext. 412; southcoastplaza.com; thewebster.us.

ERIN FETHERSTON x FRAGMENTS IDENTITY pillows, from $295, and mudcloth pom-pom blanket, $195. Designers Erin Fetherston (left) and Tammy Price.

WH (bits) HOME Run Fashion designer Erin Fetherston has long been recognized for her romantic sensibility and hyper-feminine prints.

This month, the Bay Area native channels her skill into a home collection conceived with interior designer and Fragments Identity founder Tammy Price (the two met while furnishing Fetherston’s new L.A. abode). “We wanted to create something with an earthy elegance that was both refined and relaxed,” says Fetherston. “I appreciate the longevity of interior design versus fashion, which just keeps getting faster and faster.” Find everything from black-and-white striped pillows, throws with pom-pom trim, dog beds, and upholstered ottomans in organic textures such as natural mudcloth and flax linen. erinfetherston.com.

Fine Lines This month, Los Angeles interior designer Mark D. Sikes releases his first lavish monograph, Beautiful: All-American Decorating and Timeless Style (Rizzoli, $45). The sublime volume features a foreword written by film director Nancy Meyers, as well as photography by Amy Neunsinger highlighting approachable looks from semiformal rooms filled with chinoiserie and French chairs to kitchens inspired by the garden with treillage woodwork. We asked Sikes to share his sources for inspiration: • Dragonfly Floral in Healdsburg for the countless varieties of garden roses. dragonflyhealdsburg.com.

• I just finished a project at the Filoli Estate in Woodside and fell for the Georgian architecture and the surrounding countryside. filoli.org. • The Getty Villa in Malibu for the views and Roman antiquities. getty.edu. • The San Jacinto Mountains near Palm Springs, which appear to erupt from the flat valley floor.

MARK D. SIKES adds intrigue to a room with unexpected details like gold silk tassels hanging from handles on the chinoiserie armoire, or a fireplace filled with coral.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY. “CALI” BAG: PHOTO COURTESY OF EDIE PARKER. WEBSTER INTERIOR AND DUBREUIL PORTRAIT: CAMILO RIOS WHITE. SIKES PORTRAIT: CLAIBORNE SWANSON. FETHERSTON AND PRICE PORTRAIT: KATIE JONES. STRIPED PILLOWS: LU TAPP

WHAT’S HOT

The Outnet

WHAT’S HOT Tastemaker

2.

1. SHIVA ROSE Pearl Milk cleanser, $45.

2. REBECCA DAYAN painting, Caroline, 2013, rebeccadayan.com.

3. PLANT FOOD AND WINE polenta scramble, 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice. 4. NAF indie-rock band members (from left) Erika Forster, Jenny Lewis, Tennessee Thomas. 5. BOYY Karl 24 bag in Saffron, $895. 6.

WASSON FINE diamond and sapphire hoop earrings, price upon request. 7. JONATHAN GARDENER oil on linen, Reclining Nude, 2016, caseykaplangallery.com.

8. NARS Pure Matte Lipstick in Tonkin, $28.

9. PRADA loafers, price upon request, prada.com.

10. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Fall/ Winter 2016. 11. MORAN BONDAROFF art gallery, 937 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A.

1.

5.

Natalie JOOS WH (bits) “I am not producing fashion. I am fashioning a product,” says Natalie Joos of her upcoming line of knitwear. It’s one of the many projects keeping the Belgian native busy since launching her vintagefocused blog, Tales of Endearment, in 2010.

The writer, photographer and stylist moved to L.A. from New York earlier this year for a change of scenery, but hasn’t slowed down. Also in the works: a book featuring her favorite muses, set to hit shelves in 2017. When she’s not working, expect to find her hunting for 1940s pieces for her fall wardrobe at the likes of Cannonball & Tilly and Venice’s The Pistol Club (also home to her Tales of Vintage pop-up shop).

Here, Joos shares the things she’s currently coveting. talesofendearment.com.

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10.

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8.

JOOS PORTRAIT: SLOAN LAURITS. 3.: ANNA SCHWABER. 4.: LUKE RATHBORNE SCHURMAN. 11.: COURTESY OF MORAN BONDAROFF GALLERY

3.

4.

Buccellati

WHAT’S HOT

AUTOCAMP’s midcentury-style trailers include a walk-in shower, queen-size bed, down bedding, kitchenette, fire pit and private deck.

EAST HOLLYWOOD

After drawing the fashion crowd to a gallery in Queens for their Fall/Winter 2016 presentation, Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus, the duo behind hotly tipped fashion-meets-art label Eckhaus Latta, have once more eschewed the norm by opening the brand’s first store alongside their studio in East Hollywood. “We are using the store as a platform to really learn how to conduct retail our way,” says California native Latta, who returned to L.A. two years ago from New York, where Eckhaus is based. In true experimental fashion, their way equates to revolving art installations and unbound displays (a theme echoed in their latest collection, featuring deconstructed sweaters and dresses). Next month, they will debut a collection with artist Brendan Fowler inspired by his project Election Reform.

Says Latta, “We’ve hit our stride.”

5204 Fountain Ave., L.A., 323-905-2882; eckhauslatta.com.

SONOMA

Pitch Perfect Boutique glamping destination AutoCamp parks its second permanent retreat in Sonoma with 24 Airstream trailers, 10 fully equipped tents and a Frank Lloyd Wrightinspired lounge. Top off the hassle-free getaway with a canoe ride down the Russian River or wine tasting in the nearby vineyards.

From $200/night; 14120 Old Cazadero Rd., Guerneville, 888-405-7553; autocamp.com.

NAPA VALLEY

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CUVAISON ESTATE WINES X ANDY WARHOL Bordeaux blend. Series One, $250.

ECKHAUS LATTA’s retail space in East Hollywood.

BOTTLE Pop More than 30 years after Cuvaison Estate Wines’ late proprietor Alexander Schmidheiny commissioned Pop Art sensation Andy Warhol to fashion screen prints for a Cuvaison wine label, the estate is reincarnating the artist’s whimsical works. Indulge in the first of three limited-edition releases, featuring a Napa Valley-bred 2014 chardonnay from Cuvaison’s Carneros winery and a 2014 red Bordeaux blend from Brandlin Vineyard—each fixed with a Warhol-designed label emulating loose grapes, and presented in a matching collector’s box. 1221 Duhig Rd., Napa, 707-942-2455; cuvaison.com.

WRITTEN BY LINDSAY KINDELON AND DANIELLE D I MEGLIO. ECKHAUS LATTA, PORTRAIT: ALEX ANTITCH; STORE: ROB KULISEK. AUTOCAMP (2): ERIN FEINBLATT. KHAITE: HANNA TVEITE

ON DISPLAY

LOS ANGELES KHAITE Sophie turtleneck, $580, Vanessa high-rise straight jeans, $320, and KHAITE x MANOLO BLAHNIK Serba pumps, $865.

At Ease Vanessa Traina, executive creative director of ultra-curated retail concept The Line, adds to her brand story (Protagonist, Tenfold) with Khaite, a new ready-to-wear collection underscored by Italian knitwear and made-in-L.A. denim. Traina’s friend, designer Catherine Holstein, crafted the line with ease in mind: “If I didn’t gravitate toward wearing it in the morning, it was out,” she reveals. The range spans satin-backed crepe separates to hunter-green dresses and beige cashmere sweaters. As for Traina, her favorite piece was an easy one: “The Vanessa jeans!” The Apartment by The Line—Los Angeles, 8463 Melrose Pl., 2nd Fl., L.A., 323-746-5056; theline.com; khaite.com.

Sephora

WHAT’S HOT

SURREAL Life

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A reinvigorated museum in MONTEREY pays tribute to one of its OWN, Salvador Dalí, with a WORLD-CLASS collection The Monterey Peninsula’s craggy, cypress tree-studded coast has long lured artistic types—author John Steinbeck, photographer Ansel Adams, Beat icon Jack Kerouac—to its shores, shrouded in fog and dappled light. One major artist is often lost amid this litany, relegated to a mere colorful footnote. But real estate investor and Pebble Beach resident Dmitry Piterman has righted that slight with the recent unveiling of Dali17, a reborn museum dedicated to Salvador Dalí, an early member of the Carmel Art Association.

“I stumbled on Dalí in college at a Ghirardelli Square gallery,” recalls Piterman, a Ukrainian native who immigrated to Brooklyn with his family at the age of 15, attended UC Berkeley on a track scholarship and traveled to Spain to compete in the 1992 U.S. Olympic trials. That Barcelona locale burnished Piterman’s passion for Dalí, whose birthplace, Figueres, is nearby. “I became a bit obsessed with Dalí’s original thinking

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and flamboyance, and began buying his work at auctions.”

The Spanish surrealist’s route to the West Coast commenced in 1940 when he and his wife and muse, Gala, fled Nazioccupied Europe, decamping from France to New York. They were lured to Hollywood to create the dream sequence for The Chalice of Love, 1976.

Alfred Hitchcock’s Spellbound and found their way to Monterey, where they lived off and on, from 1941 to 1949.

Dali17 is located near Fisherman’s Wharf at the Museum of Monterey. It’s a joint venture between the Monterey History and Art Association and Piterman, resulting in a permanent exhibition space for Piterman’s 500-plus-piece oeuvre (previously only exhibited in Spain and Belgium), which is the nation’s largest private Dalí collection and comprises rare art, including original etchings, sculptures, lithographs and mixed media.

This month marks the 75th anniversary of Dalí’s famous dinner party, “A Surrealistic Night in an Enchanted Forest,” staged at the Hotel Del Monte resort.

That 1941 fete included animals from the San Francisco Zoo and attracted the likes of Bob Hope, Clark Gable and then17-year-old heiress Gloria Vanderbilt—a photo of Vanderbilt and Dalí from that very night is now hanging in the museum. Piterman can’t help but daydream about staging a gala in commemoration, possibly later this year—and maybe even with Vanderbilt in attendance. “We hope she might make it,” he says. 5 Custom House Plz., Monterey, 831-372-2608; dali17.com. • CATHERINE BIGELOW

ARTWORK AND MUSEUM EXTERIOR (4): SCOTT CAMPBELL. DALI PORTRAIT: LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, PRINTS & PHOTOGRAPHS DIVISION, NYWT&S COLLECTION, LC-USZ62-114985

Clockwise from far left: The artist’s Mystery of Sleep, 1976. SALVADOR DALÍ with ocelot friend at St. Regis, 1965. In the Beginning God Created Heaven and Earth, 1969. The DALI17 museum.

T:7.125”

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Benz Self-braking. Mercedes Self-correcting. Self-parking.

Its impact is self-explanatory.

WHAT’S HOT 1.

2.

3.

1. LE LABO fragrances. 2. VELVET

BY GRAHAM & SPENCER Joan sweater, $198, and Jenny boyfriend jeans, $169. 3. JENNI KAYNE cashmere crewneck, $250, and suede tank dress, $695. 4.

NOBU White Fish Tiradito. 5. SERENA & LILY Palmetto bedding, from $78.

6. A QUESTION OF EAGLES Zig Zag vase, $40, Jenni Kayne. 7.

TRESS APOTHECARY + SALON storefront.

5.

6.

4.

7.

WH (bits)

C Insider ELYSE WALKER

The force behind her eponymous, 17-year-old Pacific Palisades shop and e-commerce platform, Forward by Elyse Walker (fwrd.com), Walker recently added a 12,000-square-foot Lido Marina Village boutique to her fashion empire. The Newport locale will play host to a bank vault filled with fine jewelry (Cathy Waterman, Elise Dray), fine art from artists Retna, James Verbicky and Paul Rusconi, a beauty station for blowouts and makeup services, a denim bar, and even a cafe. Here, the style maven shares her fall picks from the new shop. 3444 Via Lido, N.B., 949-612-2646; elysewalker.com.

A new roster of SHOPS and restaurants DROP ANCHOR in Newport Beach Set on the Newport Harbor, Lido Marina Village’s makeover is a fresh cocktail of distinctive tenants: Quintessential SoCal designer Jenni Kayne (jennikayne.com) bows with a boutique filled with staples from her Fall 2016 collection (sheer lace silhouettes, striped blouses) and earthy home essentials. Next door, high-end Japanese standard-bearer Nobu (nobu restaurants.com) opens its two-story, indoor-outdoor venue this winter, complete with an elliptical skylight and a dramatic cruise-ship-inspired grand staircase. Lifestyle brand Serena & Lily (serenaandlily.com) unveils its fifth loca-

C 102 SEPTEMBER 2016

tion and Design Shop experience with on-site advisers, 300-plus fabric swatches, and everything from bedding to wallpaper. Inside stylist Tera Stephens’ modern retreat, Tress Apothecary + Salon (tress apothecaryandsalon.com), OC denizens can indulge in a color, cut or mani/pedi.

New York perfumery Le Labo (lelabo fragrances.com) devotes an entire boutique to its multisensory, bespoke scents.

And luxe contemporary label Velvet by Graham & Spencer (velvet-tees velvet-tees.com) opens this fall with its Holiday 2016 collection (classic LBDs and high-collared separates). • DANIELLE DIMEGLIO

From top: THEPERFEXT Robertson long cashmere sweater, $795. YANNIS SERGAKIS earrings, $11,200.

ZIMMERMANN Karmic Aura Mirror dress, $2,250. AMO Babe jeans in Dive Bar, $257.

SAINT LAURENT Sea, Sex & Sun sneakers, $595.

1.: COURTESY OF LE LABO. 2.: HILARY WALSH. 3.: HENRY HARGREAVES. 4.: LAUREN ROSS. 6.: ROB HERRICK. 7.: COURTESY OF LIDO MARINA VILLAGE. WALKER: KÄRA CŌLEEN PHOTOGRAPHY

PORT of Call

Land’s End

AVAILABLE AT LANDSEND.COM - FOLLOW US

WHAT’S HOT Spotlight

Clockwise from left: Chef KYLE CONNAUGHTON plating smoked wild salmon with shio koji, negi, radish and myoga.

Teapot from Iga, Japan. Custom lacquer from Osamu Osazaki and wagyuhorn utensils.

Black cod and vegetables from SINGLETHREAD FARM cooked in the Fukkura-san donabe. Smoked apricot and walnut cream, Hojicha (tea) and fig leaf posset.

WH (bits)

FINER Things Imagine a wine-country restaurant where you relax with an aperitif on the rooftop garden just as the setting sun paints the mountains in the distance pink and gold.

Potted citrus and fruit trees, flowers and finishing herbs perfume the air. While you look over the wine list, a server arrives with the tasting menu’s first dishes. And when you’re ready, you head down to the serene 55-seat dining room, where a table

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is yours for the entire evening.

Located in downtown Healdsburg at the corner of North and Center streets, SingleThread sounds like a dream—and really, it is. Every detail is perfect, from the handmade Japanese pottery, custom woodwork and antique hardware to the wraparound kitchen with its charcoal grill. Traditional Japanese greens, as well as other fruits and vegetables, come from the restaurant’s

AUBRIE PICK

Culinary duo Katina and Kyle Connaughton PLANT new roots in WINE COUNTRY with a FARM-DRIVEN restaurant and inn

Stanford Shopping Center

WH (bits)

Clockwise from top left: KATINA CONNAUGHTON and her husband, Kyle. Guest suite at SingleThread Inn. Coastal Star Lettuce in bloom. Place setting at SingleThread. Smoked wild salmon dish.

Earthenware sake pourer filled with farm flowers.

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own farm. Staffers dive for sea urchin on the coast just north of the Russian River.

The idyllic project, set to debut in September, has been a consuming passion for the couple behind it: Kyle Connaughton, a chef with a world-class résumé, and his wife, Katina, a farmer and culinary gardener trained in sustainable agriculture. The two met in high school in L.A. in 1992 and have been together ever since, from California to Japan, Great Britain and back home again. While Kyle assumed the chef position at three-Michelin-star chef Michel Bras’ restaurant in Hokkaido, Japan, and moonlighted at traditional Japanese restaurants, Katina studied Japanese gardening and farming. When he joined threeMichelin-starred restaurant The Fat Duck in Bray, England, as head chef of research and development in the experimental kitchen, she worked as a chef and culinary gardener for a private Victorian estate.

Through all of their travels, the two had SingleThread in mind. It’s been five years in the making, including building the space from the ground up, planting 2½ acres of a 5-acre parcel of land along the Russian River, and putting together an all-star team.

Materials for the interiors are locally sourced. Tiles in the dining room are made from clay dug at the farm. Handles on the hand-forged knives are carved from wood foraged from the Sonoma Coast. And what may be California’s smallest bonded winery is installed in a corner of the dining

AUBRIE PICK (4). PORTRAIT AND LETTUCE: JASON JAAKS

WHAT’S HOT Spotlight

Mandarin Oriental

WHAT’S HOT Spotlight

Clockwise from left: The Connaughtons tending to produce in the greenhouse.

Bird’s-eye view of the farm among the vineyards.

The greenhouse.

Katina carrying Micro Negi (baby Japanese scallion shoots). Custom hand-forged knives. Beehives at SingleThread Farm.

After, you can wander back up to the roof garden for a whiskey or brandy and view the stars through a telescope from the local Robert Ferguson Observatory.

If you’re very lucky (and have reserved well ahead), you’ll retire to one of the five beautifully appointed rooms located on the second floor, and wake in the morning to a custom-tailored breakfast made with homegrown ingredients—and a day exploring Sonoma County. Rooms start at $700; 131 North St., Healdsburg; single threadfarms.com. • S. IRENE VIRBILA

AUBRIE PICK (2). CONNAUGHTONS AND GREENHOUSE: JASON JAAKS. VINEYARDS VIEW AND KATINA PORTRAIT: ERIC WOLFINGER

WH (bits)

room. (A single 450-gallon tank, it will be the key to annual collaborations with guest winemakers.)

For months, Kyle and chef de cuisine Aaron Koseba have refined dishes for the three menus, which will shift slightly every few days. Kyle may take much of his inspiration from Japan, but the food at SingleThread is eclectic, modern and sensual. A favorite from the opening menu is a dish of live Sonoma Coast sea urchin with Kujo negi (scallion) cream, roast heirloom potato puree and local caviar.

Another is wild salmon, gently smoked in a donabe (ceramic pot) with shio koji (a seasoning made with fermented rice), myoga and radish.

When diners book a table up to two months in advance through TOCK (tock tix.com), they choose from one of three 11-course tasting menus—omnivore, pescatarian or vegetarian, priced at $295 per person (includes tax and 20 percent service charge; wine pairings are an additional $155 or $295). “We’re very conscious not to make our menus too long or serve too much food,” the chef assures. “It’s easy to overindulge in a good thing. In the end, we want guests to feel invigorated.”

Elizabeth + James

189 The Grove Drive Los Angeles, CA 90036 323 647 7111 elizabethandjames.us

C EVENTS

Promotion

Minotti L.A. + MASS Beverly

Chris Barrett, Mary Ta, Jaime Rummerfield, Ron Woodson

Kara Smith

C Events Leslie Hunt

Windsor Smith, Trip Haenisch, Andrea Stanford

Daniel Gibbings + Forevermark Santa Barbara Magazine and C Magazine feted the launch of Forevermark and Montecito-based jeweler Daniel Gibbings’ new collaboration, Exception Diamond Collection, at a palatial Montecito estate.

Hosted by Jennifer Hale, founder and editorial director of C, the warm evening lured guests including Hollye Jacobs, Kendall Conrad and, of course, Gibbings himself to admire the collection’s glimmering baubles, which were as breathtaking as the expansive surrounds.

Jennifer Hale, Daniel Gibbings

Guillermina Chiu, Olga Shoshina, Wendy Haworth

LUXURY Living As part of the ongoing Designer Dozen series, C ’s Andrea Stanford welcomed L.A.’s design set to an intimate dinner alongside co-host Luxury Living at the brand’s West Hollywood showroom. Guests including Windsor Smith, Trip Haenisch, Leslie Hunt, Scott Shrader and Kara Smith previewed collections by Trussardi Casa and Bentley Home, as well as the new Fendi Casa outdoor line, before sitting down to an atmospheric candlelit supper.

Pat Nesbitt, Christina Rottman, Betty Beaton, Ursula Nesbitt

Healy Young, Jeff Jacobs, Jennifer Zacharias

MINOTTI L.A. + MASS BEVERLY: MELISSA MANNING. LUXURY LIVING: STEFANIE KEENAN. DANIEL GIBBINGS + FOREVERMARK: JESSICA DALENE

C Design + Interiors Editor Andrea Stanford teamed up with Minotti Los Angeles for an intimate dinner at Minotti’s design emporium in West Hollywood. Designers such as Kim Alexandriuk, Chris Barrett and Wendy Haworth perused new arrivals, including outdoor furniture curated specifically for the brand’s L.A. clientele.

Following cocktails, the party moved to the nearby MASS Beverly showroom, where founders and husband-and-wife team Mary Ta and Lars Hypko were on hand to welcome their guests, who admired everything from the shop’s Henge custom shelving to the Bottega Veneta home collection.

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Items available on Vestiaire Collective are pre-owned and have been listed for sale by their individual owners. The availability of items is subject to change. Vestiaire Collective is not affiliated with, or an authorized dealer or representative of, the brands or products shown or available for purchase.

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Vhernier

LOUIS VUITTON Fall/Winter 2016.

Edited by ALISON EDMOND

TOMMY TON

Fashion (opener)

Back to the Future Fall runways had fashion pundits RELIVING ’70s

VELVETY languor, ’80s CLUBLAND and ’90s CLEAN minimalism, yet INNOVATIVE silhouettes earned this season its own distinct identity SEPTEMBER 2016 C 115

FASHION Runway Report ALEXANDER WANG

CHRISTIAN DIOR

Graphic Content

Angular and striking shapes in bold colorways SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

EMILIO PUCCI

CÉLINE

Lean Times

TOD’S

HERMÈS

Fashion (turn)

LOEWE

J.W. ANDERSON

The season’s newest linear silhouette ESTEBAN CORTÁZAR

MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION

MIU MIU

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

New Romantics

A return to the extravagant statements of the ’80s

KENZO

ISABEL MARANT

Altuzarra Studio

Now available at Barneys New York Beverly Hills

The Grove

San Francisco

Seattle

Glendale

FASHION Runway Report BURBERRY ERDEM

Checkmate

RAG & BONE

A wintry ode to plaids and classic tweeds

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION

ETRO

VALENTINO

Ballet Beautiful

BOTTEGA VENETA

JACQUEMUS

Fashion (bits)

PROENZA SCHOULER

CÉLINE

ALTUZARRA

LOUIS VUITTON

Après-Ski

Slope style with an urban vibe MARNI

MONCLER GAMME ROUGE VERSACE

CREDITS

Graceful pleating and frills in natural hues

BEVERLY HILLS · BRENTWOOD COUNTRY MART · MALIBU LUMBER YARD · MARIN COUNTRY MART · MONTECITO COUNTRY MART · ROBERTSON BOULEVARD SAN FRANCISCO · SOUTH COAST PLAZA · THE PROMENADE AT WESTLAKE · TOWN AND COUNTRY VILLAGE, PALO ALTO · INTERMIXONLINE .COM

Intermix

COMPLIMENTARY PERSONAL STYLING . THE MOST COVETED DESIGNERS . A LUXURY SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

FASHION Runway Report CHANEL

DOLCE & GABBANA

CHLOÉ

Take a Bow

Ribbons and collars are the new focal points RALPH LAUREN

GUCCI

FENDI

ROBERTO CAVALLI

Velvet Touch

Fashion (bits)

Lush piles in sumptuous shades STELLA MCCARTNEY

PRADA

MATICEVSKI

HAIDER ACKERMANN

JACQUEMUS

ADEAM

Ones to Watch

Five underground designers with standout collections this season HELLESSY

MONSE

Joe’s Jeans

Santa Monica // South Coast Plaza // joesjeans.com

FASHION Trend 2.

1.

12.

3.

ROKSANDA Fall/Winter 2016.

1. STELLA MCCARTNEY velvet shoulder bag, $1,576, Stella McCartney, B.H. 2. PAUL ANDREW Aslihan sandals, $995, net-a-porter.com. 3.

SONIA RYKIEL quilted bag, $920, soniarykiel .com. 4. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN velvet mules, $625, Giuseppe Zanotti Design, B.H. 5. FENDI Hypnogarden Peekaboo handbag, $12,500, fendi.com.

6. AQUAZZURA Fauna boots, $1,995, aquazzura.com.

7. BOTTEGA VENETA embroidered clutch, $1,600, Bottega Veneta, B.H. 8. TOM FORD Pure Line strappy sandals, $1,090, Tom Ford, B.H. 9. GUCCI quilted shoulder bag, $1,790, Gucci, B.H. 10. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM Kyoto booties, $695, 3.1 Phillip Lim, W.H. 11. EDDIE BORGO Boyd Vanity bag, $990, eddieborgo .com. 12. JIMMY CHOO Mavy booties, $895, Jimmy Choo, B.H.

4.

5.

Fashion (bits)

10.

9.

C 122 SEPTEMBER 2016

6.

SMOOTH Operator From medieval to modern, jewel-toned VELVET is having a RENAISSANCE

7.

8.

PHOTO COURTESY OF ROKSANDA. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.222

11.

SOUTH COAST PLAZA | 714 438 0056 | GLENDALE GALLERIA | 818 547 5448 | WWW.TADASHISHOJI.COM

Tadashi Shoji

FASHION Trend

3.

2.

4.

1.

David Bowie with his Hunky Dory album cover, Haddon Hall, UK, 1973.

1. ANITA KO Lightning Bolt necklace, $10,725, anitako.com. 2.

ROBERTO CAVALLI leather boots, price upon request, robertocavalli.com.

3. PACO RABANNE metal mesh scarf, $510, barneys.com.

4. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Praguoise boots, $1,495, christian louboutin.com.

5. STELLA MCCARTNEY Falabella bag, $671, Stella McCartney, W.H. 6. LOUIS VUITTON Star Trail boots, $2,031, louisvuitton.com.

7. MARK CROSS Grace UFO box bag, $2,395, neta-porter.com.

8. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA Supernova heels, $1,795, Charlotte Olympia, B.H. 9. DAVID YURMAN Stax diamond and ruby bracelet, $35,000, david yurman.com.

10. LANVIN clutch, $2,590, Lanvin, B.H.

10.

5.

9.

STARMAN Salute GLAM ROCK accessories show major love for DAVID BOWIE as designers channel their inner ZIGGY

8.

C 124 SEPTEMBER 2016

6.

7.

DAVID BOWIE: (C)MICK ROCK 1972, 2016. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.222

Fashion (bits)

Velvet

C A L I F O R N I A / B R E N T W O O D / A B B O T K I N N E Y / C U LV E R C I T Y / N E W P O R T B E A C H N E W Y O R K / M A D I S O N AV E N U E / S O U T H A M P T O N

CONNECTICUT / GREENWICH

V E LV E T- T E E S . C O M

UK / LONDON

FASHION Jewelry Box

3.

2.

1.

Elizabeth Taylor in the 1963 epic drama Cleopatra.

Cleopatra

10.

Fashion (j box) 9.

8.

CALL of the Wild

Jewelers follow their ANIMAL INSTINCTS to glittering effect

6.

7.

C 126 SEPTEMBER 2016

1. COLETTE JEWELRY Tropical Rize fourfinger ring, $18,000, colettejewelery.com.

2. SYLVIE CORBELIN Adamante ring, $5,590, Church Boutique, W.H. 3. BULGARI Serpenti earrings, $23,400, Bulgari, B.H. 4. WENDY YUE Luscious Shrine ring, $13,200, Neiman Marcus, B.H. 5. CHOPARD Peacock earrings, price upon request, us.chopard.com.

6. ROBERTO COIN Animalier Falcon cuff, $33,000, 212-486-4545.

7. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Oiseaux earrings, price upon request, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H. 8. GUCCI Le Marché des Merveilles Snake ring, $11,935, gucci .com. 9. ALEX SOLDIER diamond starfish pendant, $49,400, Saks Fifth Avenue, S.F. 10. STEFERE Dragon Noir bracelet, $36,300, Saks Fifth Avenue, B.H.

5.

UNIVERSAL HISTORY ARCHIVE/UIG VIA GETTY IMAGES. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.222

4.

South Coast Plaza - Tel 714 641 3170 - www.m-missoni.com

M Missoni

Clockwise from far left: Interior rendering of the newly minted San Francisco store.

Exterior rendering of the revamped Beverly Hills store. TIFFANY & CO. rubellite bead brooch, $150,000, and pink tourmaline bead brooch, $135,000, both from the Tiffany Blue Book 2016.

SAN FRANCISCO + BEVERLY HILLS

Hit Refresh

Tiffany & Co. is keeping things sparkly and new with a facelift of its Union Square and Beverly Hills stores. This fall, the brand unveils expanded floor plans with luxe materials (marble, cerused walnut paneling, and velvet drapery in apropos light blue) and fresh facades at both locations. S.F.’s Post Street store will feature a new outdoor terrace and circular jewelry salon—both the first of their kind in North America. Meanwhile, Rodeo Drive will house the West’s only watch salon, inspired by luxury ocean liners with a camel suede wall covering, polished brass accents, and a black lacquer wall with a sundial design. 350 Post St., S.F., 415-7817000; 210 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-273-8880; tiffany.com.

Fashion (bits)

LOS ANGELES

SUIT Up “I see women who embody effortless strength and sexiness wearing our clothes,” says Angeleno Irene Roth of her new line, RD Roth. Designed in L.A. and made in New York using traditional Italian menswear fabrics in silhouettes

C 128 SEPTEMBER 2016

From left: RD ROTH’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection statement coat, $2,300, bustier top, $450, and midi dress with attached choker collar, $895.

that ooze sophistication and class (from the ruffle-trimmed tuxedo shirt to the high-waist corset pant to the pinstriped, wrap-front jumpsuit), the line employs the craftsmanship typically reserved for masculine suiting, applying it to

figure-flattering pieces fit for the boardroom. But it’s not all pinstripes and herringbone—a long velvet gown with a deep V-neckline and jacquard coat with lamb fur trim are the picture of femininity. $350-$2,300; rdroth.com.

WRITTEN BY SCHUYLER BAILEY. INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR: COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO. ROTH (3): COLIENA RENTMEESTER

FASHION

trend report

FALL SPECIAL EDITION

new season. new trends. new must haves. new ideas. new ways to wow you. macys.com/trendreport

BAR III

Advertised merchandise may not be carried at your local Macy’s and selection may vary by store. 6070007.

Only at Macy’s. Faux leather jacket. Polyurethane/polyester.

109.50. T-back satin cami.

Polyester. 49.50. Floral lace skirt.

69.50. All for misses.

Macy’s West

MACY’S PRESENTS FASHION’S FRONT ROW One unforgettable night featuring fashion’s biggest names and music’s hottest acts.Tune in to our special on Thursday, September 15 at 8pm ET on E! For details, check your local listings.

FASHION

WEST HOLLYWOOD

GLAM Slam

DIOR FINE JEWELRY Dior à Versailles Appartements de Mesdames Balustrade ring, price upon request.

Clockwise from right: VERONICA BEARD, JONATHAN SIMKHAI and MARISSA WEBB, all from the Fall/ Winter 2016 runways.

Fashion (bits)

BEVERLY HILLS

CROWN Jewel Christian Dior drew inspiration from France’s famed Palace of Versailles for his debut collection, so it is fitting that Dior Joaillerie’s longtime artistic director, Victoire de Castellane, has created a stunning line influenced by the chateau’s exquisite interiors.

Bow designs are reflective of the palace’s Rococo-style furniture, while diamond drop necklaces evoke crystal chandelier tassels—all cleverly contrasted with modern baguette cuts, precious colored stones, and pink, yellow and white gold. Altogether, an artisanal celebration of extraordinary beauty, deserving of the name Dior à Versailles. 309 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-859-4700; dior.com.

C 130 SEPTEMBER 2016

SAN FRANCISCO

TOP Notes Intermix joins the fashion club on Fillmore Street this month, bringing new labels like Cinq à Sept, Barbara Bui and Caroline Constas to lovers of the boutique’s contemporary edge. It’s the retailer’s 10th store in the state and largest in Northern California, offering a vast array of exclusives from both established and emerging designers. Overwhelmed?

Buyer Gennie Yi gave us her must-haves for fall: • Veronica Beard’s wellcrafted jackets are ripe for S.F. “We love this with a dramatic skirt for a night out on the town.” • Elegant and easy tops from Marissa Webb are “a great way to elevate your work wardrobe.”

• And, this just in: It’s out with off-the-shoulder, in with attention-drawing sleeves. “Jonathan Simkhai’s statement sweaters are a great example,” she says.

2223 Fillmore St., S.F.; intermixonline.com.

WRITTEN BY SCHUYLER BAILEY AND ALISON EDMOND. COLETTE INTERIOR: KATHRYN PAGE

COLETTE JEWELRY offers bespoke services in store. Right: Boudoir earrings, $8,480.

Celestial ear cuffs and bird-adorned hand chains favored by the likes of Rihanna and Kate Hudson can now be found at Colette Jewelry’s new boutique on Melrose Place. Botanical motifs abound at the brand’s brick-and-mortar, designed by French-Mexican founder Colette Steckel, who counts flowers among her greatest inspirations. With a black, white and gold palette, the glamorous interior reflects the designer’s own creations in gold, diamonds and precious stones.

8463 Melrose Pl., W.H., 323-944-0599; colettejewelry.com.

Hoorsenbuhs

FASHION

SPRWMN capri pants in leather, $725.

PRECIOUSLY PARIS Pink Splash clutch, $1,820.

MAKING A SPLASH With a nod to iconic California creatives such as Slim Aarons, Richard Neutra and of course Marilyn Monroe, Preciously Paris’ new Swim with Marilyn collection of clutches is a charming and whimsical take on Old Hollywood inspired by Creative Director Carole Tessier’s travels stateside. Featuring palm tree-clad scenes, heart-shaped piscines and Marilyn poolside, each limited-edition, embroidered piece comes in a handmade box. Just One Eye, 7000 Romaine St., L.A., 323-969-9129; justoneeye.com; preciouslyparis.com.

LOS ANGELES

Hero Worship Designer and single mother of two Ambre Dahan knows the duty of the working mom well, so when the former Joe’s Jeans design director started her own line of athletic, effortlessly chic leather and suede staples, SPRWMN seemed like the perfect moniker. Classic silhouettes—think jumpsuits, bandeaus and wear-everywhere high-waisted leggings—are made in L.A. from prized French lamb leather that holds its shape and rebounds like no other. Super indeed. sprwmn.com.

Fashion (bits)

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES

Frankly Speaking

C 132 SEPTEMBER 2016

STYLE Authority Classic American brand Coach is celebrating its 75th anniversary with a range of stylish happenings under the leadership of Creative Director Stuart Vevers. Its most iconic pieces—the Saddle Bag, the Dinky, the Ranger and the Duffle— are getting a modern refresh in buttery glove-tanned leather.

Come October, Rizzoli will publish Coach: A History of New York Cool, a commemorative book exploring the brand’s impact through the decades. That same month, the Coach Craftsmanship Bar launches in its L.A. flagship (S.F.’s opened earlier this year), with special leather services and exclusive vintage bags restored to their original glory. 327 N. Rodeo Dr., 310-247-1309; coach.com.

WRITTEN BY SCHUYLER BAILEY, ALISON EDMOND AND REBECCA RUSSELL. SPRWMN: MARIE NOORBERGEN. FRANKIE: MATTHEW KRISTALL

FRANKIE wool coat, $735, wool chemise, $395, ribbed pullover, $325, and leather skirt, $760, all from the Fall/WInter 2016 collection.

Downtown Los Angeles’ Arts District is not only the inspiration behind new ready-to-wear brand Frankie, but also home to its soon-todebut brick-and-mortar flagship. Founder Kevin J. Chen (also CEO and founder of MEK denim) tapped a team of designers to translate the creative spirit of the neighborhood into a wearable collection spanning premium denim, leather outerwear and knitted pieces. Up next: shoes, handbags and small leather goods.

1129 E. 5th St., L.A., 213-235-1639; frankie-us.com.

COACH Badlands with Western rivets in Bordeaux, $995.

Trina Turk

Bur l i ngame•Fashi onI sl and-Newpor tBeach•Manhat t anBeach•Pal m Spr i ngs t r i nat ur k . com

C Trunk Show F al l F or war d in St yle

ALTUZARRA

Cassandra dress, $2,195.

Neiman Marcus, 9700 Wilshire Blvd., B.H., 310-550-9500; Neiman Marcus, 601 Newport Center Dr., N.B., 949-759-1900.

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Regimental Monili leather shopper, $2,795.

220 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-724-8118; brunellocucinelli.com.

C Trunk Show JIMMY CHOO

Harlow 80 boot, $1,195. 240 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-860-9045; jimmychoo.com.

M MISSONI

Metallic stockinette dress, $995. South Coast Plaza, C.M., 714-641-3170; shopbop.com.

DOLCE & GABBANA

Crystal-encrusted, brocade and fine leather Dolce box bag, $4,445. 312 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-888-8701; South Coast Plaza, C.M., 714-668-9142.

PROMOTION

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Beautycounter

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WH E N CR EATI NG OU R PRODUCTS, WE N E VE R CHOOSE AND N EVE R USE APPROXI MATE LY 1500 QU EST IONAB LE I NGR E D I E NTS.

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Fall runways embraced each girl’s unique look as an individual.

Nowhere was this more apparent than at GUCCI—a season favorite of makeup artist KATE LEE.

WRITTEN BY LINDSAY KINDELON. COURTESY OF KEVIN TACHMAN

Beauty (opener)

Edited by

JENNY MURRAY

Game Changers A duo of industry EXPERTS divulge their autumnal

beauty MUSINGS, prepping you for RUNWAY-APPROVED looks all season long

SEPTEMBER 2016 C 137

BEAUTY

FACE Value KATE LEE Makeup Artist

Clockwise from right: KIEHL’S Micro-Blur Skin Perfector, $35.

A glowing look backstage at VALENTINO’s Fall/Winter 2016 show. EMERGINC SCIENTIFIC ORGANICS Phytocell Detox Mask, $50.

C 138 SEPTEMBER 2016

Beauty (turn)

From above: KEIRA KNIGHTLEY with makeup

by KATE LEE. BEAUTYBLENDER original, $20, sephora.com.

CHANEL Hydra Beauty Sérum, $135, chanel.com.

Detox Mask, containing French green clay, kombucha and grape stem cells— there is a visible difference in the texture of your skin in just 15 minutes. Best facial in California? I am a longtime client of Biba West Hollywood. Biba is very passionate about skin and does a custom massage that literally makes you look and feel more youthful. Favorite all-natural product? I love Egyptian Magic. It is very soothing for dry lips, or anywhere you need a little TLC. Trick you just discovered? Using a dampened BeautyBlender sponge instead of a powder puff. It diffuses the light and disguises pores beautifully. I really like the Kiehl’s Micro-Blur Skin Perfector for this; it works like a dream. Brow philosophy? They should be treated as sisters and not twins! Anastasia’s Tinted Brow Gel defines each and every brow, making them fuller and more pronounced. Top product for hydration?

Chanel Hydra Beauty Sérum: It is great as a primer before foundation. •

LEE PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF STARWORKS ARTIST. KNIGHTLEY: JEFFREY BAUM

“There is nothing more beautiful than a person who doesn’t doubt their beauty, whatever their aesthetic,” says Kate Lee, a top makeup artist behind countless glossy editorials who also holds the prestigious title of Chanel celebrity makeup artist. Here, the British-born Angeleno reveals what’s on her palette this season.

Tip for transitioning one’s look for fall?

Less pink and more toffee, muted naturals. Bitten lips and natural lashes and brows. Less blocking and defining. I’m thinking a little more soft focus for fall.

Favorite trend from the Fall/Winter 2016 runways? I loved so many of the shows, particularly Chanel, Gucci and Valentino. I really enjoyed the simple aesthetic of embracing each girl as an individual. Beauty muses? Keira Knightley, Rooney Mara and Anne Hathaway.

They are my regular clients and I consider myself very fortunate to be trusted with these extraordinary faces. Fresh face? I recently started working with Katherine Waterston; she has a fantastic Joan of Arc-style cropped haircut and I am loving her unique look. What mask are you loving the most right now?

EmerginC Scientific Organics Phytocell

Simon Premium Outlets

BEAUTY

Making WAVES ADIR ABERGEL Hairstylist

C 140 SEPTEMBER 2016

Beauty (bits) Below: ORIBE Superfine Hair Spray, $33, oribe.com. GHD Curve Classic Curl Iron, $200, ghdhair.com.

miere of her movie Personal Shopper. Top three must-haves? Oribe Superfine Hair Spray, Bumble & Bumble Mousse and Living Proof hair oil. Fail-proof tool? A 1-inch curling iron by GHD. Styling secret you recently discovered? I’ve started bringing out my ’90s diffuser to create cool new textures without using a round brush. Worth the splurge? Shu Uemura texturizing spray.

Recent discovery? Deep Serum by NOTO; it’s for the face but I love using it on the hair to seal the ends. What are your latest inspirations? I’ve been loving a lot of Mark Rothko and Willem de Kooning paintings.

Architecture also inspires me—Lautner Case Study homes and tribal hairstyles: mostly African and American Indian.

How do you break the mold of typical red-carpet hair? By creating new textures, not being scared to mix products together and by thinking outside the box. Tips for a healthy mane? Weekly hair masks and regular trims. Also, using less heat tools in the summer will keep your hair healthy. •

ABERGEL PORTRAIT: SAMANTHA RAPP. NATIVE HAIR: EDWARD S. CURTIS [PUBLIC DOMAIN], VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS. RUNWAY LOOK: COURTESY OF ISABEL MARANT. WILLEM DE KOONING, UNTITLED XXII, 1982; OIL ON CANVAS, 77 IN. × 88 IN. (195.58 CM × 223.52 CM); BEQUEST OF PHYLLIS C. WATTIS; © THE WILLEM DE KOONING FOUNDATION/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK

Renowned for his daring transformations of red-carpet tresses (think: Kristen Stewart, Rooney Mara), and mastery of perfect waves (Jennifer Garner), L.A.-based hairstylist Adir Abergel knows a thing or two about achieving an awe-inspiring coif.

Here, his latest mane addictions.

Philosophy when it comes to taming hair?

It really is all about using product to enhance your own texture—your wave, your curls or your sleekness. Anything that is going to give a glossy finish or a gritty or grunge feel. Your secret weapon? Show Beauty Lux Volume Mist. Easy go-to style of the season? My signature undone waves, but make them a little bit more rock ’n’ roll by adding Sally Hershberger 24K Superiority Complex Texturizing Paste to bring out definition in the cut and give it a little bit of a lived-in feeling. Most-loved trend from the Fall/Winter runways and which clients would you try it on? The return of the victory roll at Isabel Marant, reminiscent of the 1940s trend—this would be great on Rooney Mara. I love the grunge feeling from the Saint Laurent show—Sofia Boutella would look really cool with that texture.

Favorite red-carpet hair moment? Kristen Stewart at the Cannes Film Festival pre-

Clockwise from left: Bear Bull— Blackfoot by Edward S. Curtis, 1926. ISABEL MARANT Fall/ Winter 2016.

Untitled XXII

by Willem de Kooning, 1982.

LIVING PROOF Nourishing Oil, $38, livingproof .com. NOTO MINDFUL BOTANICS Deep Serum Face + Neck, $55, noto botanics.com.

MOUNTAIN RETREAT RESTORE. REJUVENATE. TRANSFORM. REACTIVATE YOUR INNER SPARK.

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TUNE UP YOUR MIND, BODY & SPIRIT WITH AJA MALIBU’S 7-DAY SIGNATURE PROGRAM.

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BEAUTY

AGENT NATEUR limited-edition Holi(Rose) No. 4 deodorant, $24.

From left: SYLVIE CHANTECAILLE in Kenya visiting the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust.

CHANTECAILLE Protect the Lions eye palette, $85.

Natural Selection Inspired by a recent trip, makeup maven Sylvie Chantecaille of her namesake brand Chantecaille translates the majestic beauty of Africa into her Fall 2016 collection. Violet, coral and nude lip shades evoke dramatic desert sunsets, while earthy grays, burgundy and shimmering copper shadows take cues from Kenya’s Amboseli National Park. For every palette and cheek shade sold, 5 percent of proceeds will go toward nonprofit organization Lion Guardians. Barneys New York, 9570 Wilshire Blvd., B.H., 310-276-4400; barneys.com; chantecaille.com.

LOS ANGELES

PURE Pairing This month, Pacific Palisades holistic beauty doyenne Shiva Rose, founder of Shiva Rose Beauty, teams up with Agent Nateur founder Jena Covello to launch Holi(Rose) No. 4 deodorant, a hardworking, nontoxic formula (originally concocted in Covello’s West Hollywood kitchen) that employs luxurious ingredients like raw honey, avocado butter and coconut oil to nourish the skin. What’s more, the limitededition brew of sandalwood and rose is so intoxicating, you may even ditch your perfume. agentnateur.com; shivarose.com.

JASON WU FOR CAUDALÍE limited-edition Beauty Elixir, $18/30 ml, available through November.

Beauty (bits)

PAUSE FLOAT STUDIO’s state-of-the-art pod in a private soundproof room.

VENICE

VENICE

Making WAVES Those on the hunt for next-level relaxation can head to Pause Float Studio in Venice, where each soundproof room is equipped with a state-of-the-art pod brimming with healing waters (a blend of Epsom and Dead Sea salts creates a dense consistency), credited with easing muscle and joint pain, increasing circulation and lowering blood pressure. To calm the mind, you will also find ambient light, music and guided meditations. From $85/60 min.; 13353 Washington Blvd., L.A., 310-439-1972; pausefloatstudio.com.

C 142 SEPTEMBER 2016

Caudalíe’s Beauty Elixir has been coveted for the grape-seed-extractinfused mist’s radiance-enhancing effects since it hit shelves in 1997. Now, the cult staple makes a fashionable entrance outfitted in delicate lace created by New York designer Jason Wu. “A friend gifted me a bottle and I couldn’t believe how dynamic the product was,” says Wu, a longtime fan of the Bordeaux-sourced line. “I use it once in the morning straight out of the shower and as a refresher throughout the day—it’s especially great during show prep!” 1416 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310450-3560; caudalie.com.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY AND DANIELLE D I MEGLIO. CHANTECAILLE PORTRAIT: PHILIPPE CHANTECAILLE. AGENT NATEUR: HAMISH ROBERTSON. PAUSE: COURTESY OF PAUSE. CAUDALIE: MAXIME POIBLANC. JASON WU RUNWAY: DAN LECCA

Haute Glow

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like a monarch

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Reserve the Ocean Inspiration package and receive a $250 resort credit.

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High Camp Supply

highcampsupply.com

At First Light

JOSHUA WHITE

“My original California home was a beach bungalow, and the pure, unfiltered west light it offered was something I’d never experienced before,” says contemporary glass designer Alison Berger, who became fascinated with optics while catching fireflies as a child. “All of my work has been made in Southern California and it tells a story of the quality of light here.”

Known for her highly conceptual fixtures and glass vessels (her Cage Pendant debuting this fall is worthy of a patent for its innovation and complexity), the L.A.based artist is strongly informed by her architectural past. Columbia Universitytrained Berger worked as an architect for several years, including a post at Frank Gehry’s firm, before devoting herself full time to her craft in 1995.

This fall, Skira Rizzoli is publishing a retrospective on her designs spanning the last 20 years entitled Alison Berger: Glass and Light by Matilda McQuaid ($65).

“I feel privileged to have a body of work that inspired a book. It was wonderful to recount my process, the historical path of my creative evolution,” says Berger. alisonbergerglassworks.com. • Written and edited by

ANDREA STANFORD

Design (opener)

ALISON BERGER Aura pendant, price upon request, hollyhunt.com.

SEPTEMBER 2016 C 145

DESIGN

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES

Baring It All “If I want to learn about something, I rip it apart,” says L.A. designer Stephen Kenn. For his handsome line of locally made furniture, deconstruction is key. Case in point: The Inheritance Collection sofa is “pared down to its barest bones.” A minimalist steel frame is supported with custom webbing belts and leather straps, and topped with reclaimed WWII military canvas cushions. The line also features a new dining table, chair and bed design. “Process is really important to see,” says Kenn, whose clients include Rag & Bone and TOMS founder Blake Mycoskie.

“If it’s in your home, you want it to evoke emotion. It’s less about luxury and more about curiosity.” Up next? A collaboration with Victorinox that will feature a handful of adaptable pieces like a desk/coffee table and chair/step stool. stephenkenn.com.

STEPHEN KENN Inheritance Collection dining table, from $5,000, and chairs, from $800. Right: Bowline Collection chair, $1,250, and wooden console table, $1,500.

KOREATOWN

Inner Beauty Designers like Jane Hallworth—along with the textile-obsessed— have made showroom and shop Simeona Leona one of L.A.’s bestkept secrets. Proprietors Daniel Pontius and Cirilo Domine combine their interior design and art backgrounds, respectively, to create a curated space brimming with striking finds, including resist-dye indigo pillows and provocative embroidery by Gisèle Suzor-Morin.

The spontaneous mix suits the pair’s ethos: “Design shouldn’t be rigid,” says Pontius. “Perfectionism really kills joy.” By appointment; 713 S. Westmoreland Ave., L.A., 213-480-7507; simeonaleona.com.

ALEKSANDRA ZEE custom redwood pieces, from $450 for a 1-by-2foot piece to $2,400 for a 4-by-8-foot piece.

Design (turn)

OAKLAND

At SIMEONA LEONA, thrown ceramics by partner CIRILO DOMINE, from $225, vintage Tai Jay textiles, $850/each, and an Agnes Martin print, price upon request.

East Bay-based woodworker Aleksandra Zee is a self-proclaimed “jack-of-all-trades.” Formerly a visual display artist at Anthropologie in Palo Alto—where she learned to sew, macrame and make structures out of papier-mâché—Zee devoted herself full-time to her own studio two years ago. The artist’s new body of custom, white and walnut-hued wood panels is evocative of the 1970s and employs her favorite material: redwood (a large selection will be on display at S.F.’s West Coast Craft Fair in November). She also recently debuted a hand-block-printed textile collection of linen pillows and throws in a caramel, gray and army-green color palette dubbed Everything Is Okay. “It blows my mind that working with my hands is what I get to do every day,” she says. “It’s like a meditation.” aleksandrazee.com.

WRITTEN BY KERSTIN CZARRA AND JENNIE NUNN. STEPHEN KENN (2): AMY BARTLAM. ALEKSANDRA ZEE: ANTROM KURY

Into the WOODS

gump’s san francisco pop-up shop september 2016

Vintage Hollywood glamour meets modern New York style: the daughter of Dennis Hopper and Brooke Hayward, Marin Hopper is no stranger to Hollywood’s elegant allure. Drawing from her family’s dazzling legacy, her fashion brand HAYWARD captures this uniquely luxurious style.

Gump’s

handbags • accessories • books • photographs • décor

135 post street, san francisco, ca | 415.982.1616 | gumps.com mon–sat: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. | open sundays: noon to 5:00 p.m.

SAN FRANCISCO

Easy Does It Now you can wrap your rooms in S.F. designer Erica Tanov’s signature style: She recently debuted a tile line with Clé Tiles and hand-silkscreened wallpaper—both embody her undone, elegant look. For Tanov, the path to home goods was seamless. “I thought, ‘Why limit those gorgeous textiles to clothing?’” she says.

From the Fern and Tendril wallpaper prints (“a bit graphic and they reflect my love of nature”) to tiles that take cues from vintage book covers and endpapers, each design emits raw beauty.

A passionate collector, Tanov has also curated an online vintage market dubbed Vintage Finds with items found at estate sales, auctions and flea markets. “These objects add so much life, soul and texture to a home,” she says. shop.ericatanov.com.

Clockwise from above: Vintage Peruvian handwoven table runner, similar styles available. ERICA TANOV Tendril wallpaper, $150/roll. ERICA TANOV FOR CLÉ TILE cement tile, $8/piece or $17/sq. ft.

VENICE

BOSSA NOVA Venice newcomer Le Magazyn’s exotic take on home decor can be traced to Brasília-born founder Ana Kozak’s “Brazilian Bossa” vision. Part retailer, part art gallery, the space offers handcrafted pieces from “artists and artisans with a vast global culture,” says the former event designer. “Our roots have a role in the creative process.” Look for Brazilian design exclusives such as Jorge Zalszupin’s modernist tea trolley and Sergio Rodrigues’ oversized Mole armchair. 904 Pacific Ave., Venice, 310-450-5333; lemagazyn.com.

The 66 residences at THE PACIFIC feature breathtaking views and access to a full range of service amenities. From $2 million to $20 million.

Design (bits) LE MAGAZYN’s curated mix spans porcelain tableware, handmade leather bags, and black-andwhite prints from renowned Rio de Janeiro-born photographer Claudio Edinger.

VENICE

Grounding Force

The Tippy TOP “Perched high on the hill in Pacific Heights, overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge, Mount Tamalpais and the ocean, the views from the building are some of the most inspiring and picturesque one could possibly experience. It is quintessentially California,” says Glenn Rescalvo, partner at Handel Architects, the firm behind the recently completed luxury residential development The Pacific. thepacificheights.com.

FRANCES LOOM founder KELLY VITTENGL unveils new rugs on her site every Thursday.

“Rugs are the soul of a room,” says Venice’s self-proclaimed “rug slinger” Kelly Vittengl, citing the impulse behind her two-year-old brand, Frances Loom. She scours flea markets from Pasadena to Northern France for the exquisite assortment of vintage Persian, Turkish and Oriental rugs, recently favoring rich navy- and peach-hued floor coverings. Up next, the 27-year-old will translate the spirit of her found treasures into her own small-batch, handwoven line. For Vittengl, there are no limitations on the furnishing: “I love them in places you don’t expect, like in a bathroom or as a kitchen runner.” @francesloom; francesloom.com.

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PACIFIC HEIGHTS

WRITTEN BY DANIELLE D i MEGLIO, LINDSAY KINDELON AND KERSTIN CZARRA. TABLE RUNNER AND WALLPAPER: ERICA TANOV. LE MAGAZYN: RYAN PIERCE. THE PACIFIC: CHRISTOPHER MAYER PHOTOGRAPHY. FRANCES LOOM: BRYDIE MACK

DESIGN

Your

MALIBU MOMENT

awaits...

Malibu Beach Inn

F O R R E S E RVAT I O N S , C A L L 3 1 0 . 6 5 1.7 7 7 7 O R V I S I T W W W. M A L I B U B E AC H I N N .C O M

DESIGN

On the most iconic example of midcentury architecture in his guide, author Sam Lubell says: “Pierre Koenig’s Stahl House. No property better represents the lightness of form, and spirit of optimism and possibility that midcentury modernism embodied.”

MID-CENTURY MODERN ARCHITECTURE TRAVEL GUIDE: WEST COAST USA by Sam Lubell (Phaidon, $35).

SHELF Life

The best of FALL’S design TITLES,, all highlighting the beautiful ins and outs of the GOLDEN STATE

Ken Fulk’s latest release is aptly titled not only because of his showroom’s moniker (The Magic Factory), but also for his ability to take the ordinary and create the unexpected, from events to interiors.

Design (bits)

MR. KEN FULK’S MAGICAL WORLD by Ken Fulk (Abrams, $75).

Art House details the collaboration of preeminent California art collector Chara Schreyer and longtime friend and interior designer Gary Hutton. Together they’ve created five homes, all thought out to showcase her expansive collection.

ART HOUSE by Alisa Carroll (Assouline, $85).

The celebration of the California landscape is not complete without considering the quintessential ranch properties that dot the state. A master of this classic profile, architect Marc Appleton highlights the merits of the historical style.

Co-founder of Waterworks, Barbara Sallick peeks inside exceptional bathrooms, including her CA favorites.

She says, “The moderate California climate and its beautiful natural light are a luxury in the bath. These two elements combined catapult the bath experience while making a space feel more open, spacious and relaxing.”

THE PERFECT BATH by Barbara Sallick (Rizzoli, $55).

C 150 SEPTEMBER 2016

Long before dry gardening was de rigueur, 107-year-old Ruth Bancroft transformed three acres in Walnut Creek into one of the state’s most admired public gardens. Johanna Silver explores the indigenous plantings there, including three of particular note—the iconic California fan palms (Washingtonia filifera).

“They shoot into the sky,” she says.

THE BOLD DRY GARDEN: LESSONS FROM THE RUTH BANCROFT GARDEN

by Johanna Silver (Timber Press, $35).

STAHL HOUSE: DARREN BRADLEY. FULK: DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN, ARTWORK: CHARLES & THORN

RANCHES: HOME ON THE RANGE IN CALIFORNIA by Marc Appleton (Rizzoli, $65).

Dreaming of Champagne... in search of something unique from the small growers in France. Join Sherri's Champagne on the journey to experience twelve different French Grower Champagnes per year! www.sherrischampagne.com

Sherri’s Champagne

Photo by Christopher Stark

Hudson Grace

Written and edited by

LESLEY McKENZIE

DOMINIQUE ANSEL’s sage-smoked darkchocolate brownie from Dominique Ansel Kitchen in New York, re-created by IN SITU chef COREY LEE.

Menu (opener)

ERIC WOLFINGER

Copy That Jasper Johns and Noma chef René Red­ zepi come off as unlikely bedfellows, but at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, works by art and food­ world luminaries exist harmoniously under one roof. The unifying force is three­Michelin­star chef Corey Lee (Benu,

Monsieur Benjamin), whose new restau­ rant, In Situ, is on the ground floor of the museum. Inside the Aidlin Darling Design­imagined space, Lee’s evolving, curated menu features replicas of both new creations and greatest­hit dishes conceived—and shared—by game­

changing chefs around the world, from a version of the lettuce sandwich con­ ceived by chef Christian Puglisi at Relae in Denmark, to an imitation of Angeleno Roy Choi’s ketchup­fried rice. Consider it edible art. 151 Third St., S.F., 415-9416050; insitu.sfmoma.org. •

SEPTEMBER 2016 C 153

MENU

High Life

Clockwise from above: The indoor and outdoor spaces at MARDI. Inside GEORGIE cafe and bar at Montage Beverly Hills. Jumbo pan-seared scallops at ANGEL OAK.

Menu (turn) Eat, Stay, Love Four new California hotel restaurants are stepping up to accommodate all tastes.

Start the day at Four Seasons Los Angeles at Beverly Hills’ Vinoteca (300 S. Doheny Dr., L.A., 310-860-4000; culinarestaurant .com/vinoteca) with Café Umbria Italian roasted coffee and pastries. Come back for sommelier Luca Bruno’s selection of wines and Italian cocktails that complement chef Denis Dello Stritto’s montanara-style fried pizza, and other dishes inspired by his upbringing near Naples, Italy. Whether it’s local halibut crudo or a bone-in rib eye, Executive Chef Vincent Lesage nails the modern, elegant surf-and-turf experience at Angel Oak (8301 Hollister Ave., Goleta, 877-783-6067; meritagecollection.com) at Bacara Resort & Spa in Santa Barbara.

“We wanted to showcase the best of seasonal ingredients, and prepare every single one of them with an element of surprise,” he says. Chef Kris Tominaga

C 154 SEPTEMBER 2016

Chef Vartan Abgaryan is bringing food to new heights in Downtown L.A. From the 71st floor of the U.S. Bank Tower, he looks to the city below for flavor and aesthetic inspiration. “It’s always been important for things to taste good—and look good,” he says. Nowhere has the latter been more crucial than at 71Above’s glamorous dining room, complete with a jaw-dropping view. Abgaryan doesn’t rely on pyrotechnic-like tricks to compete, but instead shapes summer squash into a delicate rosette with herb garnish, and gives scallops with carrots and sauces room to visually “breathe” on the plate. The farm egg dish, which Abgaryan says “looks like a cloud with a fried egg,” might just be the best way to bridge the expanse between earth and sky. 633 W. 5th St., L.A., 213712-2683; 71above.com.

SANTA BARBARA

ON THE RISE describes Mardi (8465 Holloway Dr., W.H., 323-656-4020; mardirestaurant .com) at Palihouse in West Hollywood as “a garden dinner party come to life with simple, Californian fare presented like a rustic European feast”—so let’s all dig into shared platters of cumin-rubbed lamb spare ribs and rabbit ragout, shall we? NYC-based chef Geoffrey Zakarian brings a casual polish to the West Coast with Georgie (225 N. Canon Dr., B.H., 310-860-7970; georgierestaurant.com) at Montage Beverly Hills. “We wanted to create a place where people can come three to four times a week,” he says of the restaurant and adjacent cafe and bar.

Power lunch over Dover sole with morels and pickled ramps? Check. Romantic night out? Done. •

How best to offer more top-notch eats while fitting in with the Funk Zone’s cool, gritty vibe? Leave it to the team at Acme Hospitality (The Lark, Les Marchands, Lucky Penny) to strike the right balance.

The restaurant group’s latest venue is Helena Avenue Bakery, where rustic baked goods and farm-fresh fare are available to eat in the stylish 125-seat indoor-outdoor space. Or hit the Picnic Counter for a perfect beach meal. 131 Anacapa St., S.B., 805-880-3383; helenaavenuebakery.com.

Classic croissants at HELENA AVENUE BAKERY.

WRITTEN BY JESSICA RITZ. MARDI: COURTESY OF MARDI. ANGEL OAK AND GEORGIE: MARSHALL WILLIAMS. 71ABOVE: COURTESY OF 71ABOVE. CROISSANTS: ROB STARK PHOTOGRAPHY

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES

Peaches and cream dessert by 71ABOVE Executive Pastry Chef GREGORY BAUMGARTNER.

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Introducing Virtuoso from MCF: custom-made philanthropy for those with significant resources and a profound commitment to charitable giving. It’s the modern alternative to a private foundation.

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MENU

SLICES OF Heaven

AT HOME in Beverly Hills, Sprinkles founders Candace and Charles Nelson host a PIZZA PARTY for friends as a hint of what’s to come

Clockwise from left: Guests sip on aperitifs in the Nelsons’ garden. Kale chopped salad. A classic margherita pizza. PIZZANA Executive Chef DANIELE UDITI artfully arranges a charcuterie board.

Menu (bits)

helming the stoves. “We took Americanstyle desserts and put really good ingredients in them, and that’s something nobody did,” says Charles. “[Now] we’re taking Neapolitan classics and changing them, and also creating new things.”

When it was time to test menu items, the couple enlisted the help of a few friends for an alfresco pizza party at their home in Beverly Hills, which they share with their two sons, Charlie, 9, and Harry,

5. Guests included designer Jenni Kayne and her husband, real-estate agent Richard Ehrlich; 3 Arts Entertainment co-founder Michael Rotenberg and his wife, Shannon, executive director of the Just Keep Livin Foundation; and Pizzana partners Chris and Caroline O’Donnell, who actually introduced the Nelsons and Uditi.

For six years, the O’Donnells have hosted Sunday-night dinners at home in the Palisades, with Uditi turning out his ad-

JESSICA SAMPLE

“Charles and I have these food passions, and cupcakes came first, obviously,” says Candace Nelson, who along with her husband, founded the Sprinkles Cupcakes empire (currently 21 locations and counting), sparking a national dessert craze along the way. Pizza was always high up on the list, too, but there was just one hitch: “I’m not a pizza chef,” says Candace, a trained pastry chef who launched the cupcake business from her kitchen. Yet it only took one bite of chef Daniele Uditi’s Neapolitan-style pizza to set the wheels in motion for the couple’s newest endeavor: Pizzana, an intimate, family-friendly pizza restaurant set to debut in Brentwood this fall, with Uditi

INDELIBLE MEMORIES BEGIN WITH A

Grand American Beach Vacation at The Del America’s Beachfront Legend. Where beach-lovers from near and far write their fondest stories on our glittering sands.

Hotel del Coronado

HOTELDEL.COM BEACHVILLAGEATTHEDEL.COM 855.540.1730

MENU

Clockwise from left: A charcuterie board with salami imported from Italy. Guests gathered around the table. Wood oven-fired ricotta with charred broccolini; wood oven-charred artichoke salad; burrata caprese salad. Balsamic strawberry Pavlova.

CANDACE NELSON with a LILY LODGE flower arrangement.

dictive, freshly made pies. “It got to the point where people would show up, even if they weren’t invited,” says Chris. “One night we made 97 pizzas. We even had to-go boxes.” It was at one of these gatherings that the Nelsons met the Naples-born pizza and bread artisan, and the idea for bringing pizza and wine to the Westside in a casual but refined setting was born.

In the shade of a small olive grove in the Nelsons’ immaculately manicured garden, Uditi laid out a colorful feast, including a kale chopped salad with Italian salami and a bright buratta caprese salad combining tomatoes fresh from the Santa Monica Farmers Market and buratta from Southern Italy (at Pizzana, Uditi plans on using locally sourced and imported ingredients, as well as house-made mozzarella).

Next came the famous Neapolitan-style margherita pizzas, hot from the Nelsons’ wood-burning pizza oven and crafted with Uditi’s time-tested technique. “I studied a lot of flour,” says Uditi, who prefers an Italian grain that’s low in gluten and high

C 158 SEPTEMBER 2016

in protein and nutrients, and ground by stone. “I start the dough 48 hours before I need to serve it. When you eat it, you feel really light and you feel like you never want to stop eating pizza.” Michael Rotenberg concurs: “The dough. It’s spectacular. I’ve been waiting for this restaurant to open. I want to be able to get [this pizza] whenever I want.” Much to the delight of gluten-free vegans Kayne and Ehrlich, there was also a delicious squash-blossom-laden pie to suit their dietary restrictions. “Gluten-free is usually sticky and chewy— this tastes like real pizza,” raves Kayne.

Since no meal at the Nelsons’ is complete without a sweet finish, the evening culminated with Candace’s take on balsamic strawberry Pavlova, and Sprinkles Cupcakes, which might make an appearance on the seasonal menu. “We have Daniele, we have pizza and we have wine. And sometimes we have a game on, and the kids in the pool,” says Candace. “This is exactly how we entertain.” 11712 San Vicente Blvd., L.A.; pizzana.com. • LESLEY McKENZIE

JESSICA SAMPLE

Menu (bits)

Wonderful Co

WINE AND DINE AT WINERY OF THE YEAR. The moment you visit JUSTIN, you’ll understand why it was named Winery of the Year. Nestled in the hills of beautiful Paso Robles, JUSTIN offers an array of unforgettable experiences. Enjoy limited releases paired with stunning estate vineyard views from our Tasting Room. Savor delicious culinary offerings at the elegant Restaurant at JUSTIN. Take a tour of our breathtaking grounds and incredible wine barrel caves, or stay the night at our luxurious JUST Inn Suites. However you choose to enjoy JUSTIN, you can be sure you’re in for an award-winning experience. © 2016 JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery LLC. All Rights Reserved. JUSTIN and the accompanying logos are trademarks of JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery LLC. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery, Paso Robles, CA. JV15329

Country Mart

Edited by

JENNY MURRAY

Travel (opener)

DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN

Lone Star What’s NEW in MARFA, TEXAS? A lot more than you’d think, for a ONE-STOPLIGHT TOWN with a population under 2,000

From top: DONALD JUDD’s 15 untitled works in concrete, 1980-1984. THE CHINATI FOUNDATION studio space.

SEPTEMBER 2016 C 161

TRAVEL From far left: The MARFA water tower.

COMMUNITIE Palm hats, $69, and woodblockprint sarongs, $95. EL COSMICO PROVISION CO. rests on its namesake 21-acre trailer, tent and teepee hotel and campground.

Thanks to artist Donald Judd, who founded The Chinati Foundation (chinati.org) 30 years ago, Marfa has one of the largest permanent installations of contemporary art in the world. For years, people made the three-hour drive from the nearest airports to visit the foundation as well as the artist’s Judd Foundation (juddfoundation.org) for tours of his living and working spaces, spent the night, and left. But the past decade brought more reasons to stay—galleries, restaurants, shops, hotels and (relative) real-estate bargains—which is why it’s experiencing its version of a renaissance.

The West Texas town recently got its first high-end boutique hotel, Hotel Saint George (105 S. Highland Ave.)—with 55 rooms, works from local artists adorning the walls, a bustling lobby bar, and LaVenture, a fine dining restaurant helmed by Executive Chef Allison Jenkins, formerly of laV Restaurant & Wine Bar in East Austin.

The Marfa Book Company has a new home in the lobby.

Local favorites Freda (207 S. Highland Ave.), where you can stock up on Pamela Love jewelry, No. 6 clogs and locally made goods, and hotel/campground El Cosmico’s boho-chic shop El Cosmico Provision Co. (802 S. Highland Ave.), with its hand-dyed

C 162 SEPTEMBER 2016

Travel (turn)

wool blankets and Bandana bags by Rene Holguin, are joined by Mano (120 E. El Paso St.), offering handcrafted finds from silver guitar picks to vintage textiles, and Communitie (122 N. Highland Ave.), the brainchild of fashion designer John Patrick, carrying handwoven hats, artisanal jewelry, art and textiles. Marfa is also the only place to view the full range of Garza Marfa (103 N. Nevill St.) saddle-leather furniture.

Start your day with a coffee at Do Your Thing (201 E. Dallas St.) and breakfast at Marfa Burrito (515 S. Highland Ave.).

Lunch spots are open only sporadically: Try Squeeze Marfa (111 W. Lincoln St.) for sandwiches, the legendary Food Shark Marfa (909 W. San Antonio St./Hwy. 90) truck for Mediterranean fare, and newcomer Marpho (1300 W. San Antonio St.) for báhn mì. Have killer cocktails and dinner at The Capri (601 W. San Antonio St.), where chef Rocky Barnette serves sophisticated Tex-Mex, or indulge in home-cooked small plates, which are the focus at Stellina (103 Highland St.), a new eatery from Brandon Messer and Krista Steinhauer, who co-founded Food Shark.

Insider’s tip: Many shops and restaurants are not open on a daily basis—to be safe, plan a weekend trip. • RENATA JAKUBAUSJKAS

WATER TOWER: DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN. COMMUNITIE: ALAN DICKSON. SAINT GEORGE: CASEY DUNN. TRAILER AND TEEPEE: NICK SIMONITE. MANO MERCANTILE: BEAU BUCK. FREDA: SUSANNAH LIPSEY

Left: MARFA BOOK COMPANY inside the new HOTEL SAINT GEORGE. Below: MANO’s patchwork and embroidered denim. FREDA is home to locally made crafts and goods.

Lowell Hotel

TRAVEL

Clockwise from left: TIMBER COVE is perched on the bluffs of the Sonoma Coast.

The guest-room deck offers serene ocean views. The resort entrance is inspired by classic 1960s Frank Lloyd Wright architecture.

SONOMA COAST

DRAMATIC ESCAPE Those itching to reconnect with nature can head to Timber Cove, the newly minted luxe-rustic resort nestled on the Sonoma Coast. After taking a guided hike or polishing up your kayaking skills, try the local king salmon with lentils or artisan cheese board featuring locally crafted delicacies at the new Coast Kitchen. 21780 CA-1, Jenner, 707-847-3231; timbercoveresort.com.

THE BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL Bungalow 5 includes a private pool.

NICK FOUQUET fedora, $1,200, and SANT AND ABEL pajama set, $260, available at the Signature Shop.

Travel (bits) Suite Dreams The Beverly Hills Hotel’s first three bungalows recently emerged from their facelifts—the remaining 18 will be unveiled through 2018—and they evoke the same cozy, Old World glamour the fabled space’s legendary guests have been drawn to over the years. Picture spacious rooms that are alive with SoCal tones and patterns (rust, pinks, greens and golds) and ’40s Hollywood Regency-inspired furniture.

Head to the Signature Shop for exclusives like cotton pajama sets in the hotel’s iconic banana-leaf print, a collaboration with Australian sleepwear brand Sant and Abel; and a snappy straw fedora from Venice hatmaker Nick Fouquet. 9641 Sunset Blvd., B.H., 310276-2251; dorchestercollection.com.

From above: The private bath patio and alfresco shower at THE VILLAS & SUITES AT BERNARDUS LODGE & SPA. One of new Villa Suites.

CARMEL VALLEY

ROYAL Treatment The Villas & Suites at Bernardus Lodge & Spa debuts 14 exclusive guest lodgings, offering everything from butler service and complimentary Mercedes-Benz convertibles—though you may never want to leave the 28-acre property. The designs feature fire pits, wet rooms with wall and rain showers, and private bath patios and terraces with vineyard views. Also new is Lucia Restaurant & Bar, which uses ingredients from surrounding farms and has a 25,000-bottle wine cellar. 415 W. Carmel Valley Rd., C.V., 831-658-3400; bernarduslodge.com.

WRITTEN BY CAROLINE CAGNEY. TIMBER COVE OCEAN AND EXTERIOR: COURTESY OF TIMBER COVE; BALCONY: EMILY NATHAN. BERNARDUS LODGE (2): COURTESY OF BERNARDUS LODGE

BEVERLY HILLS

2016 CONTEMPORARY VISION AWARD DINNER Monday, October 17 Celebrate world-renowned artist Christian Marclay and

SF MOMA

support the museum’s exhibitions and education programs.

Organized by the Modern Art Council, this annual lifetime achievement award honors creative leaders who have redefined the field of visual art.

Join us as we honor Marclay, the creator of the 24-hour-long cinematic tour de force, The Clock. Proceeds from this event support SFMOMA’s stellar exhibitions and innovative education programs that serve more than 60,000 students, teachers, and families each year.

Learn more at sfmoma.org/cva.

Presenting Sponsor

Supporting Sponsor

Fine Arts SF

Ed Ruscha has long been drawn to the subject of the American West and its role in our national mythology. Through more than 80 works in a range of media, this exhibition explores Ruscha’s commitment to depicting the spare and evocative landscapes that first inspired him as a young man and that still compel his work today.

Presenting Sponsor: Phyllis C. Wattis Fund for Exhibitions. Curator’s Circle: Lisa and Douglas Goldman Fund and The Harris Family. Supporter’s Circle: Anonymous, Mr. David Fraze and Mr. Gary Loeb, Shelby and Frederick Gans, Peggy and Richard Greenfield, and Arlene Schnitzer and Jordan Schnitzer.

The exhibition is supported by an indemnity from the Federal Council on the Arts and the Humanities.

This project is supported in part by an award from the National Endowment for the Arts.

Presenting Events Sponsor:

Ed Ruscha, Standard Station (detail), 1966. Color screenprint. FAMSF, museum purchase, Mrs. Paul L. Wattis Fund. © Ed Ruscha

JUL 16 – OCT 9, 2016

ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER AND MELISSA GOLDSTEIN

TACITA DEAN LA EXUBERANCE 5, 2016 HAND-DRAWN 3-COLOR BLEND LITHOGRAPH 29⅞ × 29⅞ IN. (75.9 × 75.9 CM) EDITION OF 36 LA EXUBERANCE 5 © 2016 TACITA DEAN AND GEMINI G.E.L.

Edited by

Culture (opener)

TACITA DEAN’s LA Exuberance 5, 2016.

L.A. Ink

Beloved by a who’s who of the ART WORLD, SoCal’s PIONEERING printmaking studio MARKS a milestone with simultaneous shows

If you happened to find yourself on Melrose Avenue in the late 1960s, you might have run into Roy Lichtenstein, Frank Stella or Claes Oldenburg ducking into a printmaking studio and gallery called Gemini G.E.L. Today, you could equally rub shoulders with some of the industry’s newer high-profile names including Tacita

SEPTEMBER 2016 C 167

CULTURE

Dean and Analia Saban, both the subjects of solo shows at Gemini G.E.L. this fall.

These creative heavyweights aren’t there to make reproductions of their art.

“A reproduction can be beautiful, but they are in the family of posters. Those should go to the museum store,” says Sidney B. Felsen, co-founder and co-director of Gemini G.E.L., which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year with “The Serial Impulse at Gemini G.E.L.,” a retrospective at LACMA that opens September 11 and follows a run at the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C. Artists invited to collaborate with Gemini G.E.L. come to its workshop to create original pieces, generally in editions of 60 at most. Some spend up to two weeks on their projects, printed on everything from paper and fabric to metal. “We tell them they can do anything they want,” says Felsen, 92, a recognizable Los Angeles art-world fixture thanks in part to his penchant for Panama hats. In 1967, that open-ended directive saw Robert Rauschenberg create his seminal work, Booster, with the studio, a revolutionary 6-foot-tall lithograph/silkscreen featuring an X-ray self-portrait—the largest handpulled lithograph ever printed—and helped to spark a renaissance of fine-art printmaking in the United States. In later years, Johns developed his famous Color

Numerals print series there (the 10-piece set recently sold for $485,000 at Christie’s), and John Baldessari and Richard Serra regularly created editions (Felsen recalls Serra once “stomping on paint to get texture into the material”).

Felsen and his late business partner Stanley Grinstein met at USC as undergrads, but it wasn’t until they were each around 40 years old that the art aficionados formed their partnership with printmaker Kenneth Tyler (he parted ways with Gemini in 1973). Today, the headquarters includes a building designed by Frank Gehry (Grinstein’s wife, Elyse, who passed away in July, worked in Gehry’s office at the time of the build-out in 1979, and collaborated on the interiors). Felsen’s wife, Joni Weyl, operates New York gallery Gemini G.E.L. at Joni Moisant Weyl, selling the studio’s work. Weyl, along with Sidney’s daughter, Suzanne (who is also a jewelry designer) and Grinstein’s daughters, Ellen and Ayn, work in the curating and sales departments.

The emphasis continues to be on bringing new talent into the stable, as well as refining the art of printing. “The printers talk about how they can tell by the touch whether they’ve got the right amount of ink on the plate,” says Weyl. “It’s a feel thing.” 8365 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323-6510513; geminigel.com. • DEGEN PENER

Culture (turn)

Above: ROY LICHTENSTEIN’s Nude in the Woods, 1980. Below: JOHN BALDESSARI’s Octagon, 2016.

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JULIE MEHRETU PAINTING ON A COPPER PLATE FOR AUGURIES IN THE GEMINI G.E.L. ARTIST STUDIO, 2010 PHOTOGRAPH © 2010 SIDNEY B. FELSEN. PARTNERS SIDNEY FELSEN AND STANLEY GRINSTEIN IN THE GEMINI WORKSHOP, 1988. PHOTO JIM M c HUGH. GEMINI BUILDING WITH LOGO AS ARCHITECTURAL DETAIL PHOTOGRAPH © 2001 SIDNEY B. FELSEN. ROY LICHTENSTEIN NUDE IN THE WOODS, 19807-COLOR WOODCUT AND EMBOSSING 101.0 × 90.8 CM (39¾ × 35¾ IN.) NUDE IN THE WOODS © 1980 ROY LICHTENSTEIN AND GEMINI G.E.L. JOHN BALDESSARI OCTAGON, 2016 3-COLOR SCREENPRINT 40¾ × 36 IN. (103.51 × 91.44 CM) OCTAGON © 2016 JOHN BALDESSARI AND GEMINI G.E.L. LLC

Clockwise from left: Artist JULIE MEHRETU painting on a copper plate for the work Auguries in the GEMINI G.E.L. Artist Studio, 2010. Partners SIDNEY B. FELSEN and STANLEY GRINSTEIN in the Gemini workshop, 1988. The Gemini building in 2001.

SAN FR ANCISCO SYMPHONY

SF Symphony

MICHAEL TILSON THOMA S

RENÉE FLEMING

SUSAN GR AHAM

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2016 • 8PM MICHAEL TILSON THOMAS

STAR-STUDDED CONCERT

AND THE

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SAN FR ANCISCO SYMPHONY FEATURING RENÉE FLEMING

DRINKS, GOUR MET TREATS, AND DANCING UNTIL MIDNIGHT It’s the biggest, most glamorous party of the season!

Concert tickets include pre-concert sparkling wine reception and the After-Party. Formal dinner packages that include premium seating for the concert are available by contacting the Volunteer Council at 415-503-5500.

AND

SUSAN GR AHAM

Proceeds from this event benefit the Symphony’s myriad artistic, education, and community programs.

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Concert at Davies Symphony Hall unless otherwise noted. Programs, artists, and prices subject to change.

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C CALIFORNIA STYLE

FORT WINFIELD SCOTT, with dazzling views of the Golden Gate Bridge, is the site of FOR-SITE FOUNDATION’s ambitious new exhibition.

THE HEAD AND THE HEART, whose new album is out on Sept. 9.

Live Stream

SAFE Haven

An unprecedented NEW S.F. show POSITS global questions that hit CLOSE to home “It’s always a fine line—as far as what comes first,” says celebrated curator Cheryl Haines. “The idea is the artist or the site.”

As founding executive director of San Franciscobased arts nonprofit ForSite Foundation, Haines CHERYL HAINES has ample experience with talent and tourist attractions of the highest caliber (see: last year’s “@Large: Ai Weiwei on Alcatraz,” for which the groundbreaking Chinese artist took over the federal penitentiary). This month she stages another logistical coup at Fort Winfield Scott, a collection of defunct military structures, some of which are set to open to the public for the first time, in S.F.’s urban national park, The Presidio.

Engaging what Haines terms “the fear of the other,” “Home Land Security” comprises works from 16 contemporary artists installed in five sites including decommissioned gun batteries and a military chapel. Both beautiful and sobering (as you might expect a bluff-top World War II defense post near the Golden Gate Bridge to be), the coastal setting uniquely fortifies the show’s themes of surveillance, safety, ideology and cultural misunderstanding.

The lineup spans L.A. and South Africa-based artist Liza Lou’s Barricade, a gatelike aluminum sculpture covered

Culture (bits)

C 170 SEPTEMBER 2016

LIZA LOU’s Barricade, 2007-2008.

in 24-karat gold beads (“it neither protects or prevents,” says Haines); to Syrian painter Tamman Azzam’s triptych of war-torn cityscapes; and S.F. sculptor Al Farrow’s Mosque III (2010), a chilling representation of the National Mosque of Nigeria, constructed with decommissioned missiles and bullets.

Bristling tension is a Haines hallmark, but even as she forces viewers into a discomfort zone with her careful selection of thoughtful and defiant pieces, her ultimate pursuit is basic human understanding. “At the end of the day, we all just want the same things,” she says. “Home, family, security, respect—it’s all valid, it’s all vital.” On view Sept. 10-Dec. 18; for-site.org. • LEILANI MARIE LABONG

Hot tickets for your calendar: • The Head and the Heart Back with a new harmonydense third album, Signs of Light (penned partly in Stinson Beach), the folk-pop Seattle band’s tour stops in Berkeley and L.A. early next month. theheadandtheheart.com. • L.A. Dances Dynamic companies Los Angeles Dance Project, Ate9 and BODYTRAFFIC interpret works by L.A. composers Arnold Schoenberg, Daniel Wohl and Esa-Pekka Salonen to a live score performed by the LA Phil on Sept. 8. hollywoodbowl.com. • Dream of the Red Chamber Based on one of China’s most beloved 18th-century novels, this S.F. Opera commission makes its world premiere Sept. 10, complete with a love triangle plotline and production design by Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon’s Tim Yip. sfopera.com.

• You Gotta LOS ANGELES DANCE Get Bigger PROJECT Dreams Actor, singer and author Alan Cumming dishes on Hollywood encounters spanning Carrie Fisher’s birthday party to rendezvous with Oprah in his second memoir.

He reads live on Sept. 19 at Santa Monica’s Moss Theater and Sept. 21 at Barnes and Noble at the Grove. rizzoliusa.com. • King Charles III A.C.T. presents Mike Bartlett’s sly Olivier Award-winning play, in which Prince Charles ascends to the throne and Kate Middleton turns Machiavellian, at S.F.’s Geary Theater starting Sept. 14. act-sf.org. •

ALAN CUMMING with his dog Honey, who is along for the ride in the actor’s new memoir.

WRITTEN BY LINDSAY KINDELON AND DANIELLE D I MEGLIO. BATTERY BOUTELLE, ONE OF FIVE HOME LAND SECURITY EXHIBITION SITES OVERLOOKING THE GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE; PHOTO: NINA DIETZEL. EXHIBITION CURATOR CHERYL HAINES INSIDE BATTERY GODFREY, 2016; PHOTO: JAN STURMANN. LIZA LOU, BARRICADE, 2007-8; GOLD-PLATED BEADS ON ALUMINUM; 88W × 108 × 3 IN.; COURTESY THE ARTIST AND WHITE CUBE GALLERY, LONDON; PHOTO: TOM POWELL; © LIZA LOU. DANCE PROJECT: JAMES WELLING. SLEEPING MAN AND DOG: ALAN CUMMING

CULTURE

Stand Up to Cancer

standup2cancer.org #reasons2standup #su2c ASTRAZENECA, CANADIAN BREAST CANCER FOUNDATION, CANADIAN IMPERIAL BANK OF COMMERCE, CANADIAN INSTITUTES OF HEALTH RESEARCH, CANCER STEM CELL CONSORTIUM, LILLY ONCOLOGY, FARRAH FAWCETT FOUNDATION, GENOME CANADA, LAURA ZISKIN FAMILY TRUST, NATIONAL OVARIAN CANCER COALITION, ONTARIO INSTITUTE FOR CANCER RESEARCH, OVARIAN CANCER RESEARCH FUND ALLIANCE, THE PARKER FOUNDATION, ST. BALDRICK’S FOUNDATION, VAN ANDEL RESEARCH INSTITUTE STAND UP TO CANCER IS A PROGRAM OF THE ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY FOUNDATION (EIF), A 501(C)(3) CHARITABLE ORGANIZATION. IMAGES FROM THE STAND UP TO CANCER 2012 AND 2014 SHOWS. THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION FOR CANCER RESEARCH (AACR) IS STAND UP TO CANCER’S SCIENTIFIC PARTNER.

Gypset

BEAU GREALY. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.222

EMILY RATAJKOWSKI in a MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION dress, $6,995, and VHERNIER rings, $5,100-$5,500.

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With the world watching, MODEL, ACTOR and SOCIAL MEDIA phenom EMILY RATAJKOWSKI makes her mark on FASHION, FILM and FEMINISM

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Photography by

BEAU GREALY Styling by ALISON EDMOND Written by LESLEY McKENZIE

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JUST CAVALLI dress, $2,890.

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VALENTINO dress, $21,400.

TIFFANY & CO. gold earring, $2,100/pair, and cluster earring, $8,300/ pair. HOORSENBUHS rings, $4,500-$7,500. Opposite: HOORSENBUHS earring, $8,500/pair, and rings, $5,250-$10,500.

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DIANE VON FURSTENBERG dress, $2,200. TIFFANY & CO. earring, $8,300/pair. CARTIER ring, $11,200. Opposite: RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION jacket, $8,500. HEIDI MERRICK bikini bottoms, $185. CARTIER earring, $4,500/pair, and ring, $11,200.

JENNIFER MEYER circle studs, $975/pair, and trillion studs, $4,300/pair.

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VERA WANG COLLECTION gown, $2,495.

HOORSENBUHS earring, $8,500/pair, and rings, $5,250‑$10,500.

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beautiful as she is instantly likable. “If I wasn’t a public figure, I would still be Tweeting articles and maybe everyone would be less sensitive,” she says, in reference to the flak for which she is an occasional target. Some argue her battle against the objectification of women at odds with her public embrace of her own nudity. “But I think it’s really important to use your platform. Also, that’s just who I am,” she explains. Her February essay “Baby Woman” for Lena Dunham’s influential Lenny Letter outlines her views on sexuality and womanhood (“To me, ‘sexy’ is a kind of beauty, a kind of selfexpression, one that is to be celebrated…

Why does the implication have to be that sex is a thing men get to take from women and women give up?” she writes) and has earned praise from the likes of feminist author Naomi Wolf.

With two globe-trotting parents in academics, Ratajkowski’s broad worldview came into focus at an early age. Dad, John David Ratajkowski, is an artist and teacher, and mom, Katherine Balgley, is an English professor who gave birth to Ratajkowski during a teaching stint in London. The family returned to California as Emily was entering kindergarten, but continued to vacation in Ireland, where the Ratajkowskis got together with friends and purchased two dilapidated farmhouses that they restored (now retired, her parents live there half the year). “It was great for me because it helped me to find who I was, not by the place where I’m from and the environment that I’m in, but for who I am in all these different spaces,” concludes Ratajkowski of her childhood summers in Europe. “It just gives you so much perspective.”

Ratajkowski, the new face of Amore & Sorvete swimwear, identifies as a California girl (“I say ‘gnarly,’’’ she jokes), the result of her formative years in a beach town outside San Diego—“a small good-feeling community.” At a public high school—where PE classes included surfing and skateboarding—a young Ratajkowski immersed herself in journalism, theater and the arts (Dad also happened to be the art teacher). Mod-

eling was a natural byproduct of acting for the 5-foot-7 stunner, who signed with agents in both fields in Los Angeles at age 14—and landed modeling gigs and small acting roles for the likes of Nickelodeon shortly thereafter. “I was still in school, which was really important to me and my parents, but it was great because I was able to come up to L.A. a couple times a month and make money.”

Upon graduating high school, Ratajkowski considered a writing program at Sarah Lawrence College in New York, but ultimately enrolled in an art program at UCLA, where she could simultaneously focus on her career. “I was 18 and a lot more jobs were coming in because I always looked older. It was good, but there was this awkward phase where it was like, ‘Well, she looks like a 21-year-old with a full body and everything, but it’s weird to cast her when she’s 16.’ At 18, it was more comfortable.” A year later, Ratajkowski put school on hold. “I felt like, ‘OK, I’m getting this art education but I could be making a lot of money.’”

The ascent to sex-symbol status happened almost overnight in 2013 with her star turn in the music video for Thicke, and later, for Maroon 5’s “Love Somebody.”

Film roles began pouring in, from Ben Affleck’s mistress in Gone Girl (2014), to a fictionalized version of herself in Entourage (2015), to Zac Efron’s love interest in We Are Your Friends (2015). Ratajkowski just wrapped on the ’80s-set indie romance flick Cruise, in which she plays a Jewish girl from Long Island who infiltrates the hot-rod scene in Queens, before heading to London to film the psychological thriller In Darkness alongside Natalie Dormer.

Meanwhile, Ratajkowski is bound for the small screen in the Netflix comedydrama series Easy directed by Joe Swanberg, premiering this month. She is also set to appear as a guest judge in the new season of Bravo’s Project Runway—a show that she fondly remembers watching in high school that’s now entering its 15th season. “I thought there was going to be some trick to it, like they already know [who wins], but it’s totally what it is, 100 percent,” she says, pleasantly surprised by the show’s authenticity.

When she’s not working, expect to find Ratajkowski at dinner parties with friends or exploring the art Continued on p.222

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“I wasn’t AWARE that it was necessarily FEMINISM that [my mom] was INSTILLING in me, but that’s definitely what it was, and that came very EARLY in my life.”

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FASHION ASSISTANT: RAINA SILBERSTEIN. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.222

Long before Emily Ratajkowski writhed her way into the pop-culture psyche in the music video for Robin Thicke’s 2013 summer anthem “Blurred Lines,” her mother predicted a far different career path for her daughter. “When people wanted me to sign with an agency or get head shots when I was 3 years old, [my mom’s] comment was, ‘She’s going to be a brain surgeon. Stop,’” recalls the 25-year-old. “It was always her message to me that ‘You are more than the way you look,’ but also, ‘You never have to apologize for or feel embarrassed for the way you look,’ which I think is really important, too.”

Ratajkowski ended up in front of the camera after all, yet her mother’s philosophical leanings still play a defining role in her career, as a model, actor and social-media star who uses her voice to speak out on issues from body shaming to Planned Parenthood. “I wasn’t aware that it was necessarily feminism that [my mom] was instilling in me, but, that’s definitely what it was, and that came very early in my life.” Consider her a modern-day feminist: one who is as likely to pose in a topless—albeit censored—Instagram selfie alongside Kim Kardashian as she is to hit the campaign trail with Bernie Sanders in the name of female voters. (At a rally in New Hampshire, she took on feminist icon Gloria Steinem, who accused young women backing Sanders of simply seeking male attention with their support.)

“I’m really politically active, and have been my whole life,” explains Ratajkowski in between sips of coffee on set for her cover shoot in Malibu. Makeup-free with her hair pulled back in a loose ponytail, the doe-eyed brunette is as strikingly

ASHISH jacket, $2,232.

AMERICAN APPAREL shirt, $38, and shorts, $22.

JENNIFER FISHER earring, $215/pair. VHERNIER ring, $5,100. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN shoes, $675. Makeup: FIONA STILES BEAUTY Luminous Finish Foundation Concentrate in 06, $30, and Artist Eyeshadow Quad in Topanga, $28.

PRTTY PEAUSHUN Skin Tight body lotion in Dark, $39.

HAIR Christian Wood at The Wall Group for Christophe Robin. MAKEUP Fiona Stiles at Starworks Artists for Fiona Stiles Beauty.

NAILS Emi Kudo at Opus Beauty for Dior Vernis.

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Stroll down VENICE BEACH’S iconic boardwalk in fall’s bold prints, decadent weaves and powerful accessories—creating only the chicest of SHOCK WAVES

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CHRISTIAN ANWANDER

by ALISON EDMOND

Photography by Styling

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LOUIS VUITTON dress and skirt, prices upon request, bag, $3,300, and boots, $1,441.

SYLVIE CORBELIN ring, $3,500. Opposite: BURBERRY coat, $3,695, dress, $2,595, and bag, $2,495. KONSTANTINO rings, (from left) $7,160 and $6,485.

DARNER SOCKS, $40.

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN shoes, $1,095.

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CHANEL dress, $42,300. BALLY jacket, $6,925. BUCCELLATI earring, $17,500/pair, and ring, $6,300. DARNER SOCKS, $40.

JIMMY CHOO shoes, $1,250.

Opposite: BOTTEGA VENETA coat, $14,500. TADASHI SHOJI dress, $468. SYLVIE CORBELIN earring, $24,500/pair, and ring, $6,500.

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO dress, $3,100, cape, $4,090, sweater, $1,390, and earring, $720/pair. SYLVIE CORBELIN ring, $6,500. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN shoes, $1,795.

Opposite: FENDI coat, $38,000, top, $3,300, gaiters, $1,750, bag, $3,550, bag strap, $1,050, and shoes, $1,000.

SYLVIE CORBELIN ring, $7,500.

Bra and leggings, stylist’s own.

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ALTUZARRA dress, $15,000, and earring, price upon request.

LONGCHAMP coat, $2,360.

SYLVIE CORBELIN ring, $3,500.

DIOR sneakers, $2,400.

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GUCCI dress, $11,000, bag, $1,890, socks, $115, and shoes, $1,100. BUCCELLATI earring, $21,000/pair, and ring, $89,000. Opposite: ROBERTO CAVALLI blazer, $3,110, blouse, $2,390, and trousers, $1,190.

BUCCELLATI earring, $6,300/ pair, onyx ring, $3,000, and tsavorite ring, $89,000.

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN shoes, $795.

ETRO parka, $21,120, and dress, $16,750. KONSTANTINO earring, $1,460/pair, and ring, $750. DIOR sneakers, $1,100. Opposite: MIU MIU jacket, $3,880, knit, $565, and skirt, $5,020. SYLVIE CORBELIN ring, $7,900. Makeup: KEVYN AUCOIN The Lip Gloss in Beaugonia, $30, The Celestial Skin Liquid Lighting, $52, eyelash curler, $21, Eye Pigment Primatif in Champagne, $48, and The Celestial Bronzing Veil in Tropical Days, $48.

MODEL Victoria Brito at Muse Management. HAIR Andre Gunn at Honey Artists using Oribe.

MAKEUP Jenna Anton at Forward Artists using Kevyn Aucoin.

NAILS Christina Aviles at Opus Beauty for Dior Vernis.

FASHION ASSISTANT: RAINA SILBERSTEIN. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: PAUL GUSBER. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.222

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For more than two decades artist DOUG AITKEN has pushed the boundaries of what ART is and what it does. With his first North American survey on the horizon, the artist ENGAGES his past as only he can—by redefining it

SAM FROST Written by MELISSA GOLDSTEIN Photography by

CREDITS

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DOUG AITKEN stands in the mirrored stairwell of his mesmerizing Venice Beach home.

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Feature (tbd) It’s the day after the Fourth of July, and artist Doug Aitken is thinking about the electrifying display he witnessed in the sky the night before. Of course, this being Doug Aitken—a man who digs a 656-footdeep hole in the earth (Sonic Pavilion, 2009) and wraps the Seattle Art Museum in a 12-story-high responsive glass screen (Mirror, 2013) in the name of his art—we’re not talking about pyrotechnics in a charred-hot-dog-scented field.

Aitken spent the evening in the control room of NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory, watching the Juno spacecraft slip into orbit around Jupiter, a journey five years in the making. “A friend is running the mission,” he explains. “I’m trying to help him with ideas of how the arts can cross over with their programming.”

It’s one of many conversations the prolific 48-year-old is having at the moment, thanks to a long-running occupational habit of following his curiosity—recently he’s been talking to marine biologists and oceanographers, as well as investigating the overlap of experimental film and vir-

C 198 SEPTEMBER 2016

Clockwise from top left: The detached guest house features custom stained glass windows. Aitken’s 2013 text sculpture More (shattered pour), made of high-density foam, wood and mirror. The downstairs sitting room features wall-towall screen-printed foliage.

tual reality. He is also putting together his first North American survey, “Doug Aitken: Electric Earth,” opening September 10 at L.A.’s The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA. “All of these things leak into and inform each other,” he says.

Nowhere is this more evident than in Aitken’s Venice Beach home, a case study in a style he calls Acid Modernism. It’s built on the former site of the century-old ramshackle cottage where he lived for more than a decade. (The artist filmed its systematic, controlled destruction—with his parents seated at a table inside—for the 2010 piece House.)

“Architecture requires so many decisions, and every time there was one I got really interested—I realized we could just turn it into an experiment,” he says.

Catering equally to Dieter Rams and Willy Wonka, Aitken’s house seeds clean-lined functionality with delightful surprises: The sonic dining table is composed of mounted marble tiles with glockenspiel-like qualities. The staircase is edged with mirrors that play off of the skylight to kaleidoscopic effect. The walls of the ground floor are skinned in a silk-screened pattern sourced from photographs of the hedges outside—creating lush camouflage in cahoots with the window views. “By the time the house was finished it was, you know, kind of different,” he says.

Lush vegetation underneath the stairwell flourishes thanks to a strategically placed skylight.

CREDITS

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In the dining room, one of Aitken’s sonic tables takes pride of place.

“When the house was finished it was completely finished,” he says. “I love that. I don’t have to make any more decisions. It’s kind of just living its life now, and I’m kind of in it sometimes.” Opposite from top: NOW (Blue Mirror), 2014. A sculpture

by Austrian artist FRANZ WEST on display upstairs is a gift from the artist.

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He buried geological microphones under the staircase and in the foundation— turn on the speakers and you can listen to the earth shift below. “We think that the one static thing in our lives is what we stand on, but it’s not,” he says. “In making artwork you find that you’re trying to get closer to the language of how you see things; you’re trying to go beyond the surface of what’s around you.”

He has an uncanny knack for capturing the cultural zeitgeist in his work,

which spans happenings like 2013’s Station to Station, for which he chartered a nine-car train, enlisted high-profile collaborators like Ed Ruscha and Patti Smith, and mounted a nomadic art show; text sculptures that pit the meaning of words against their visual execution; and multichannel video installations depicting everything from wild animals wreaking havoc in roadside motel rooms (migration [empire], 2008) to Chloë Sevigny seemingly roaming the globe in an

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endless travel loop (Black Mirror, 2011).

There’s also architecture, photography and publications—each exploring the entropy inherent in modern life in technologically fluent fashion.

So it seems against-type that he’s currently doing a lot of looking back. “For a long time I’ve tried to not do survey shows,” he says. “But [MOCA Director] Philippe Vergne spoke to me in a way where it looked like we really had an opportunity to do something new.”

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Clockwise from top left: In Aitken’s studio, his “Earth Chair” series dominates the space. Chromogenic print desire (chemical spills), 2009. A still from video installation Black Mirror, 2011, starring Chloë Sevigny. Neon piece 100 Years, 2014, installed in Aitken’s studio. Two stills from migration (empire), 2008. LED-lit aluminum light box WHAT WE DID WAS STAND AROUND AND WAIT FOR SOMETHING TO HAPPEN, 2011. Installation view of SONG 1, 2012/2015.

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The West Coast eventually pulled him back. He continues to tap into its geographical legacy. “Right now there’s a lot of migration from artists from Europe and New York [to L.A.], but there’s always been an avant-garde as long as there’s been people here,” he says. “Walk outside and you have these pieces of cultural history—[performance artist] Chris Burden nailed himself to a VW Beetle in the ’70s on the corner of my street. When you have dinner and talk to someone about cinema or music or art, you talk in shorthand, and a lot of that was born out of this wasteland that we live in.”

He begins each day with a stroll to the ocean. “It’s like erasing everything for a minute. There’s just something in a quiet way that I really respond to,” he says thoughtfully. “I feel this momentum behind me. And in front of me—I feel very little.”

For someone who can’t help but live his life instinctively anticipating what’s to come, it must be a relief. “Doug Aitken: Electric Earth,” Sept. 10.-Jan. 15, The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA, L.A.; moca.org. •

From top: Mallets for Aitken’s sonic tables sit atop a speaker system that connects to microphones beneath Aitken’s house. The artist’s piece Future, 2011, hangs above his bed. Opposite: “I tried to pay attention to the color chroma of the trees in bright afternoon light, so you have these moments where the walls disappear and merge with the outside seamlessly,” says Aitken of the screenprinted walls downstairs.

MORE (SHATTERED POUR) 63 × 48½ INCHES. NOW (BLUE MIRROR) 48¼ × 108½ × 18 INCHES, BRIAN FORREST. DESIRE (CHEMICAL SPILLS) 56¾ × 47 INCHES, STEFAN ALTENBURGER. BLACK MIRROR (STILL) 13:20 MINUTES/LOOP. WHAT WE DID WAS STAND AROUND AND WAIT FOR SOMETHING TO HAPPEN 45½ × 45½ × 7 INCHES. SONG 1: NORBERT MIGULETZ

The friends met in the late ’90s at the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis, where Vergne was senior curator. “I was amazed by the mix that [Aitken] has: being totally down-to-earth and extremely rigorous,” says Vergne. He likens the artist’s relentless work ethic to jazz saxophonist Ornette Coleman’s circular breathing, which allowed him to play and take in air at the same time. “He’s so committed to a set of ideas and this desire to produce and identify new forms…and he’s truly, deeply, interested in what people have to say. That is talent.”

Aitken and Vergne have dreamt up an exhibition that eschews brightly lit white walls and a path designed by curators for a blueprint that, in Aitken’s words, evokes “a living film set.” It’s an environment in which classical musicians may set up unannounced to perform a live rendition of a minimalist score. “You kind of put your foot over the threshold and fall into the space, like a very disturbed Alice in Wonderland,” says Aitken. “What you see might be totally different from what a person who walks in an hour later sees; I became obsessed with that idea—the potential to make this living system.”

Encompassing 67 works, the show includes its titular piece, the multiscreen video installation Electric Earth, a short film following a man on an anxious and hypnotic urban nighttime journey (it won the International Prize at the Venice Biennale in 1999), as well as little-seen collage works and some of his earliest experiments, such as the 1992 slow-motion

video Inflection, for which he strapped a camera to a small rocket and launched it over San Diego.

“There is a crescendo in the way that he has developed his language,” says Vergne. “It started very early—identifying what was interesting to him; meaning in landscape, storytelling and narrative; what constitutes creativity; and the contemporary condition. His vision was already embedded.”

For Aitken, the excavation process is both foreign and familiar. “I spend most of my time in the present; I don’t think about the past too much,” he says. “I don’t think about my past much at all.”

He doesn’t talk much about it either, but some details have emerged. He grew up in Redondo Beach. He developed a lifelong habit for surfing. He received a scholarship to attend Pasadena’s Art Center College of Design, and later moved to New York in the ’90s. His breakthrough came in 1997 with Diamond Sea, a video installation that debuted at the Whitney Biennial and for which Aitken infiltrated an inaccessible region of Namibia to document an alien desert landscape sparsely populated by automated mining machines.

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In a clever play on CLASSIC men’s SHIRTING, designers add a MODERN, deconstructed twist to the perennial mix of masculine and feminine

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RALPH MECKE

by ALISON EDMOND

P hotog r a p h y by S tyl i ng

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On Josefien (left): ADEAM dress, price upon request.

ALTUZARRA belt, similar styles available. On Indya: ADEAM dress, $1,520.

MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION shirt, $595.

Opposite: LOEWE dress, $2,350, and shoes, $890.

JULEZ BRYANT ring, $2,495. HUE socks throughout, stylist’s own.

Feature (tbd)

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION jacket, $2,995, dress, price upon request, and belted skirt, $1,695. GRAZIELA GEMS rings, $780 and $1,050. TOD’S boots, $1,155.

Opposite, on Josefien (left): GIORGIO ARMANI jacket, $4,394, shirt, $825, and pants, $8,095. On Indya: GIORGIO ARMANI shirt, $825.

Feature (tbd)

Feature (tbd)

On Josefien (left): VERA WANG COLLECTION shirt, price upon request, plastron, $375, and skirt, $995. On Indya: VALENTINO sweater, $1,290, and shirt with strap belt, $1,450.

Feature (tbd)

Feature (tbd)

On Josefien (left): BRUNELLO CUCINELLI shirt, $1,245, and pants, $3,075. On Indya: MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION shirt, $1,295, and skirt, $1,995.

Opposite: PRADA dress, $4,560. JENNIFER MEYER rings, $175 each. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN shoes, $1,495.

Feature (tbd)

FASHION ASSISTANT: RAINA SILBERSTEIN. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR DETAILS, P.222

Feature (tbd)

DOLCE & GABBANA shirtdress, $3,845, and slip dress, $3,845.

GRAZIELA GEMS band rings, $1,620 and $190. EF COLLECTION Zigzag ring, $625. MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION shoes, $775.

Opposite, on Josefien (left): VERSACE shirt, $1,225, and pants, $675. On Indya: POLO RALPH LAUREN shirts, $145 and $125.

Makeup: KETT COSMETICS foundation, $30, powder, $22, and cream blush, $30. SKIN ELEGANCE Vitalash Mascara, $28.

MAC COSMETICS eyebrow pencil, from $17. HOURGLASS highlighter.

MODELS Josefien Rodermans at Supreme Management; Indya Love Stewart. HAIR Paco Garrigues at Forward Artists using Balmain Hair. MAKEUP Silver Bramham at Art Dept.

NAILS Christina Aviles at Opus Beauty for Dior Vernis.

Feature (tbd)

Feature (tbd)

KIRSTEN DUNST and Rodarte’s KATE and LAURA MULLEAVY aim their cameras toward NAPA during a snap-happy GIRLS GETAWAY in wine country Written by

KELSEY McKINNON

LAURA MULLEAVY, KIRSTEN DUNST and KATE MULLEAVY. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The entrance to the Champagne Private Maison suite at AUBERGE DU SOLEIL, the trio’s home during their visit to Napa. A warm welcome.

Vintage wine bottles at the Francis Ford Coppolaowned INGLENOOK winery in Rutherford. The winery’s dramatic exterior.

Feature (tbd)

Feature (tbd)

“WHO KNOWS how long we were there,” says Dunst.

“NAPA is a TIME WARP.” C 218 SEPTEMBER 2016

While one never really needs a reason to sojourn in Napa Valley, designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy and their friend and surrogate sister, actor Kirsten Dunst, had a solid excuse. “They had just finished the Rodarte fall show in New York and we had done a film together [Woodshock], so we were down for a good trip,” says Dunst. If that wasn’t enough, this year also marks Rodarte’s 10-year anniversary and a decade of friendship between the trio, who originally met at a friend’s birthday party after Dunst wore a Rodarte gown to the Spider-Man 2 premiere. “That’s why we had to go!”

Dunst insists.

The Mulleavy sisters have been in a NorCal state of mind for some time: Their fall collection—a mash-up of flower prints and ruffled black leather—drew inspiration from art nouveau and The Godfather, the screenplay for which Francis Ford Coppola is said to have penned at Caffè Trieste in San Francisco’s North Beach. Both references hit close to home—the duo grew up in Aptos, set on the southern point of the San Francisco Peninsula, and later attended the University of California, Berkeley before moving to Pasadena. “I’m equal parts Southern California and Northern California,” says Kate. “Some people prefer one over the other, but they mean different things to me and I appreciate both.”

THE AUBERGE SPA: COURTESY OF AUBERGE DU SOLEIL

Below: The Auberge Spa at Auberge du Soleil.

Feature (tbd) “It has such incredible history,” says Laura Mulleavy of Inglenook.

Feature (tbd)

For Dunst, who calls the San Fernando Valley home, the destination wasn’t as familiar. “The only time I had ever been to Napa before this trip was for Sofia Coppola’s wedding, and for her child’s baptism,” she says. Dunst and the director’s friendship can be traced back to the 1999 set of The Virgin Suicides (they also paired up on Marie Antoinette in 2006 and will join forces again with the upcoming remake of The Beguiled); in 2012 Dunst starred in On the Road, based on the Jack Kerouac novel and executive produced by Sofia’s father, Francis.

The first stop on the itinerary was the McDonald’s at the Burbank airport (“for chicken McNuggets,” says Dunst) before hopping a flight to Oakland and renting a car. “I’m the one with the directions, Laura’s the driver and Kate’s in the back,” says Dunst, who, as confirmed

by Kate and Laura, is indeed an expert navigator. “It comes from reading the Thomas Guide for my mother driving around Los Angeles when I was younger.

It was the only way to get around before we had GPS.” Making a right off the Silverado Trail and accelerating up a short winding road, they reached their home for the next four days: a private, freestanding cottage at Auberge du Soleil with an outdoor soaking tub overlooking the pristine valley floor. The wine-country cycle of drinking, eating, spa-ing and napping immediately commenced.

At the top of their to-do list was a visit to The French Laundry, and after an 18-course meal—which at one point involved a sampling from the house’s decadent Truffle Platter—the women were treated to a tour of the temporary kitchen.

Says Laura, “It was like watching a ballet.

Just amazing.”

Each morning, Laura, the early bird, woke Kate and Kirsten for leisurely days spent wine tasting at Quintessa, lunching at Oakville Grocery and admiring the blossoming tulip fields in Yountville.

On one afternoon, the girls paid a visit to Francis Ford Coppola at his Inglenook estate. While reclining in deep plush sofas in the Rutherford winery’s tasting room, Coppola told the girls about the backstory of the land, which he acquired in 1975 with profits from The Godfather. Coppola’s chef Continued on p.222

PHOTOS COURTESY OF KATE MULLEAVY, LAURA MULLEAVY AND KIRSTEN DUNST

Feature (tbd)

Opposite, clockwise from top left: “Our first meal in Napa. We are so excited to get away,” says Dunst. Tulips in bloom in Yountville. “Kate admits she cannot open wine bottles,” says Laura. A selection of truffles at Thomas Keller’s THE FRENCH LAUNDRY. Dunst amid the mustard flowers. Inside Inglenook’s wine cellar.

ALL EYES ON EMILY CONTINUED FROM P.182

gallery scene in her Downtown Los Angeles neighborhood, usually with her boyfriend, musician Jeff Magid, to whom she has been linked since 2014. “I keep a low profile,” she admits. “The worst feeling is when you’re at a restaurant and really feeling comfortable with your friends and then all of a sudden people are looking at you and taking your picture.” For those wanting a true glimpse into Ratajkowski’s world, there’s her Instagram account, @emrata, which claims a following equal to the population of a small European country (7 million and counting). Here, fans are regularly treated to her jet-set adventures, not to mention a steady stream of skin-baring snaps.

Despite her best efforts to avoid reading stories about herself online (“click bait is real!” she laments), curiosity often gets the better of her—especially when her mom starts asking questions about stories she’s read. “It [would be] weird if I didn’t know what she was talking about. Or someone on set will say, ‘Oh, I saw that thing blah, blah, blah,’ or ‘I saw those pictures of you’ and I’m like, ‘Oh my god, what is that?’ So, I do Google myself. I can’t help it.”

What she has mastered, however, is the ability to nurture successful careers in modeling and acting simultaneously—ones that promise longevity. “I think maybe 20 years ago it was harder for a model to be accepted as an actress. Everything is so interdisciplinary now,” she says. She may not be saving lives as her mother once envisioned, but she’s carving out a remarkable one of her own. •

VALLEY HIGHS CONTINUED FROM P.221

passed appetizers as stories unfolded (like the time Coppola reportedly commissioned Tiffany & Co. to create the house labels) and the wines began to open up. Hours passed like seconds.

“Who knows how long we were there,” says Dunst. “Napa is a time warp.”

As Coppola wished them well, he left them with a last morsel of advice: Ciccio

C 222 SEPTEMBER 2016

in Yountville for mortadella pizza. The following evening, over said pie, Laura remembers, “We actually started crying at the dinner table.” It was an overwhelming moment: the food, yes, was nonpareil, but it was also the catharsis that being in Napa Valley can elicit with each exquisite bite.

Despite the picturesque tulip fields, the aged cabernets at Quintessa and the lavender bath salts at Auberge du Soleil, “the highlight for me was definitely the camaraderie,” says Laura, although all of them concede that five days was not nearly quite enough. In Laura’s words, “We’ll just have to have the Napa Valley Chronicles Part II.” •

SHOPPING GUIDE ON OUR COVER Balmain crystal beaded top, $11,800, and raccoon fur with leather skirt, $5,000, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900; balmain.com.

Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti Snake earrings in 18-karat gold, $2,100, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310273-8880. Vhernier Abbraccio ring in 18-karat rose rold, $5,100, and Camuration ring in 18-karat rose gold, $5,500, Vhernier, B.H., 310273-2444.

Runover

TABLE OF CONTENTS p.52 See “Electric Avenue,” p.184. See “Cotton Club,” p.206.

STARMAN SALUTE p.124 Anita Ko 18-karat white gold diamond Lightning Bolt necklace, $10,725, Just One Eye, L.A.; anitako.com. Roberto Cavalli leather boots, price upon request, robertocavalli.com. Paco Rabanne mini metal mesh scarf, $510, barneys .com. Christian Louboutin Praguoise gold leather ankle boot with stud detail, $1,495, christian louboutin.com. Stella McCartney Falabella tiny faux-leather cross-body fringe bag, $671, Stella McCartney, W.H., 310-273-7051. Louis Vuitton Star Trail high boot, $2,031, Louis Vuitton, B.H., 310-859-0457; louisvuitton.com. Mark Cross Grace small UFO cutout box bag, $2,395, net-aporter.com. Charlotte Olympia Supernova heel, $1,795, Charlotte Olympia, B.H., 310-276-1111; charlotteolympia.com. David Yurman Stax multi-row color faceted bracelet with diamonds and rubies in darkened silver, $35,000, David Yurman, N.Y., 212-752-4255; davidyurman.com.

Lanvin black clutch in stars and heart print, $2,590, Lanvin, B.H., 310-402-0580.

SMOOTH OPERATOR p.122 Stella McCartney blue silk milk and fluid velvet shoulder bag, $1,576, Stella McCartney, L.A., 310-273-7051. Paul Andrew Aslihan sandals, $995, net-a-porter.com. Sonia Rykiel quilted velvet bag with pearls, $920, sonia rykiel.com. Giuseppe Zanotti Design red velvet mule, $625, Giuseppe Zanotti Design, B.H.,

310-858-1990; giuseppezanottidesign.com.

Fendi large Hypnogarden velvet peekaboo handbag, $12,500, Fendi, B.H., 310-623-3420; fendi.com. Aquazzura Fauna boot in ruby red, $1,995, aquazzura.com. Bottega Veneta stretch knot clutch in Peacock embroidered velvet with Ayers details, $1,600, Bottega Veneta, B.H., 310-858-6533. Tom Ford Pacific blue Pure Line strappy sandal, $1,090, Tom Ford, B.H., 310-270-9440. Gucci medium shoulder bag in fuchsia quilted velvet with GG closure, $1,790, Gucci, B.H., 310-278-3451. 3.1 Phillip Lim Kyoto stretch booties in velvet, $695, 3.1 Phillip Lim, W.H., 310-358-1988. Eddie Borgo Boyd Vanity bag in rose/blush, $990, eddieborgo.com.

Jimmy Choo Mavy amber velvet peep-toe bootie, $895, Jimmy Choo, B.H., 310-860-9045; jimmychoo.com.

CALL OF THE WILD p.126 Colette Jewelry Blue Drift four-finger ring, 18-karat gold colored sapphire ring with ruby, topaz and tsavorites, $18,000, colette jewelry.com. Sylvie Corbelin Adamante ring, $5,590, Church Boutique, L.A., 323-876-8887.

Bulgari Serpenti earrings, $23,400, Bulgari, B.H., 310-858-9216. Wendy Yue Luscious Shrine ring, $13,200, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900.

Chopard An Immortal Peacock earrings, price upon request, us.chopard.com. Roberto Coin Animalier Falcon cuff in 18-karat rose gold with black and cognac diamonds, $33,000, 212486-4545. Van Cleef & Arpels Oiseaux earrings from “Birds of Paradise” collection, price upon request, Van Cleef & Arpels, B.H., 310-2761161; vancleefarpels.com. Gucci Le Marché des Merveilles Snake ring in 18-karat white gold with green tourmalines and green topaz, $11,935, gucci.com. Alex Soldier diamond starfish pendant, $49,400, Saks Fifth Avenue, S.F., 415-986-4300; alexsoldier.com. Stefere Dragon Noir bracelet, $36,300, Saks Fifth Avenue, B.H., 310-275-4211.

ALL EYES ON EMILY p.173 Michael Kors Collection gold floral embroidered metallic brocade dress, $6,995, michaelkors.com. Vhernier Abbraccio ring in 18-karat rose gold, $5,100, Camuration ring in 18-karat rose gold, $5,500, and Fibula ring in 18-karat rose gold, $5,100, Vhernier, B.H., 310-273-2444. p.175 Just Cavalli gold sequin dress, $2,890, robertocavalli.com. Cartier Trinity de Cartier Panthère de Cartier 18-karat yellow gold ring, $11,400, Cartier, B.H., 310275-4272. p.176 Valentino Punk Ballet organza dress, $21,400, valentino.com. Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti Mesh earrings in 18-karat rose gold, $2,100, and Tiffany Victoria mixed cluster earrings in rose gold with diamonds, $8,300, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310-273-8880. Hoorsenbuhs Ovaal 18-karat rose gold and diamond ring, $5,800, Revere 18-karat rose gold and cognac diamond ring, $7,500, Americana 18-karat rose gold and cognac diamonds band, $4,500, and Masque 18-karat rose gold and cognac diamonds ring, $7,500, Hoorsenbuhs Atelier, L.A., 888-692-2997. p.177 Hoorsenbuhs fivelink pavé earrings, $8,500, Dame Phantom ring, $5,250, Dame Phantom clique ring, $10,500, and Masque Ring, $7,500, Hoorsenbuhs Atelier, L.A., 888-692-2997. p.178 Diane von Furstenberg Ariel Amour dress in gold, $2,200,

DVF, C.M., 714-312-5480. Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Victoria mixed cluster earrings in rose gold with diamonds, $8,300, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310-273-8880. Cartier Panthère de Cartier 18-karat yellow gold ring, $11,200, Cartier, B.H., 310-275-4272. p.179 Ralph Lauren Collection beaded Yvette jacket, $8,500, ralphlauren.com.

Heidi Merrick Vicent bikini bottoms, $185, heidimerrick.com. Cartier Trinity de Cartier 18-karat yellow gold, 18-karat white gold and 18-karat rose gold earrings, $4,500, and Panthère de Cartier 18-karat yellow gold ring, $11,200, Cartier, B.H., 310-275-4272. Jennifer Meyer 18-karat yellow gold circle studs, $975, and Trillion studs, $4,300, Barneys New York, B.H., 310-276-4400. p.181 Vera Wang Collection nude tulle bib-neck column gown with hand-placed metallic sequin panel embroidery and crystal accents, $2,495, Vera Wang, B.H., 323-602-0174. Hoorsenbuhs fivelink pavé earrings, $8,500, Dame Phantom Ring, $5,250, Revere Ring, $7,500, Masque Ring, $7,500, and Dame Phantom Clique, $10,500, Hoorsenbuhs Atelier, L.A., 888-692-2997. p.183 Ashish Golden Shower biker jacket, $2,232, brownsfashion.com. American Apparel Cotton Modal open-back T-shirt, $38, and interlock running shorts, $22, americanapparel.com.

Jennifer Fisher brass pair of smooth stick earrings, $215, jenniferfisherjewelry.com.

Vhernier Plateau Ring, $5,100, Vhernier, B.H., 310-273-2444. Giuseppe Zanotti Design metallic gold mule, $675, Giuseppe Zanotti Design, B.H., 310-550-5760. Makeup: Fiona Stiles Beauty Luminous Finish Foundation Concentrate in 06, $30, and Artist Eyeshadow Quad in Topanga, $28, fionastilesbeauty.com.

Prtty Peaushun Skin Tight body lotion in Dark, $39, prttypeaushun.com.

embroidered tulle slip gown, $468, tadashi shoji.com. Sylvie Corbelin Mobile Earrings Fascination, $24,500 and Oeil de L’Esprit ring, $6,500, Church Boutique, L.A., 323-876-8887. p.188 Salvatore Ferragamo multicolored silk pleated dress, $3,100, multicolor pattern cape, $4,090, wool turtleneck, $1,390, and earrings, $720, Salvatore Ferragamo, B.H., 310-273-9990.

Sylvie Corbelin Oeil de L’Esprit ring, $6,500, Church Boutique, L.A., 323-876-8887. Giuseppe Zanotti Design multicolor sparkle booties, $1,795, Giuseppe Zanotti Design, B.H., 310858-1990; giuseppezanottidesign.com. p.189 Fendi multicolor botanic garden shibori mink coat, $38,000, embroidered botanic garden silk top, $3,300, calf leather gaiters, $1,750, calf leather Wave Peekaboo, $3,550, calf leather Strap You, $1,050, and calf leather mules, $1,000; fendi.com. Sylvie Corbelin Fascination ring, $7,500, Church Boutique, L.A., 323-8768887. p.191 Altuzarra Delphia dress, $15,000, and navy marbled-effect resin earrings, price upon request, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-5505900; altuzarra.com. Longchamp reversible coat in rabbit fur and cotton, $2,360, Longchamp, Costa Mesa, 714-436-1963. Sylvie Corbelin ring double Intientiee, $3,500, Church Boutique, L.A., 310-876-8887. Dior Fusion Sneakers, $2,400, Dior, B.H., 310-859-4700. p.192 Roberto Cavalli velvet blazer, $3,110, silk blouse, $2,390, and velvet trouser, $1,190, and Roberto Cavalli, B.H., 310-276-6006; robertocavalli.com. Buccellati Opera drop earrings, $6,300, Opera ring, $3,000, and gold, diamond and tsavorite ring, $89,000, Buccellati Beverly Hills, B.H., 310-276-7022.

Giuseppe Zanotti Design black, silver and gold platform sandal, $795, Giuseppe Zanotti Design, B.H., 310-550-5760; giuseppezanottidesign.com. p.193 Gucci black-green chenille flower jacquard long-sleeve high-neck dress with patch embroidery, $11,000, medium shoulder bag in quilted leather, $1,890, yellow cotton socks, $115, and high-heel platform wedge in bicolor leather, $1,100, Gucci, B.H., 310-278-3451.

Buccellati gold and diamond drop earrings, $21,000, and gold, diamond and tsavorite ring, $89,000, Buccellati Beverly Hills, B.H., 310-2767022. p.194 Etro embroidered parka, $21,120, and embroidered and beaded lace dress, $16,750, Etro, B.H., 310-248-2855. Konstantino sterling-silver and 18-karat gold chandelier earring/pearl classics collection, $1,460, and sterling-silver and 18-karat gold ring/pearl classics collection, $750, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900. Dior Fusion sneakers, $1,100, Dior, B.H., 310-859-4700. p.195 Miu Miu fur jacket, $3,880, knit, $565, and skirt, $5,020, Miu Miu, B.H., 310-247-2227; miumiu.com. Sylvie Corbelin Cartago Delenda Est Antique Lapis Lazuli Cameo ring, $7,900, Church Boutique, L.A., 323-876-8887. Makeup: Kevyn Aucoin The Lip Gloss in Beaugonia, $30; The Celestial Skin Liquid Lightening, $52; Eyelash Curler, $21; The Celestial Bronzing Veil in Tropical Days, $48, sephora.com; Eye Pigment Primatif in Champagne, $48, barneys.com.

$2,350, and shoes with ring and ankle strap, $890, nordstrom.com and barneys.com. Julez Bryant Refe ring, $2,495, julezbryant.com. Hue fishnet socks, from a selection at Macy’s. p.207 Adeam black/white asymmetrical draped dress, price upon request, Intermix, L.A., 310-8600113. Altuzarra belt, similar styles available, altuzarra.com. Adeam gray bustier pinstripe dress, $1,520, Intermix, L.A., 310-860-0113.

Michael Kors Collection coffee tattersall stretch poplin shirt, $595, michaelkors.com. p.208 Giorgio Armani jacket, $4,394, shirt, $825, pant, $8,095, and shirt, $825, Giorgio Armani, B.H., 310-271-5555. p.209 Calvin Klein Collection black leather jacket, $2,995, white long-sleeve shirtdress, price upon request, and black leather belted pencil skirt, $1,695, calvinklein.com.

Graziela Gems white studded band ring, $780, and white stackable vine ring, $1,050, graziela gems.com. Tod’s lace-up hiking boots, $1,155, Tod’s, B.H., 310-285-0591. p.211 Vera Wang Collection white cotton poplin button-down shirt, price upon request, black stretch canvas one-shoulder plastron, $375, and black wool maxi kilt with pleated front and side front slit, $995, Vera Wang, B.H., 323-602-0174. Valentino wool and cashmere cropped knit sweater, $1,290, and cotton shirt with faux-leather belt, $1,450, Valentino B.H., 310-247-0103. p.212 Prada dress, $4,560, prada.com. Jennifer Meyer white gold diamond thin rings, $175 each, Barneys New York, B.H. Christian Louboutin Cybersandale shoes, $1,495, Christian Louboutin, B.H., 310-247-9300. p.213 Brunello Cucinelli cotton striped poplin shirt, $1,245, and Monili Widowpane pants, $3,075, Brunello Cucinelli, B.H., 310-724-8118. Michael Kors Collection white stretch poplin studded collar shirt, $1,295, and black embroidered wool crepe broadcloth slashed skirt, $1,995, michael kors.com. p.214 Versace patchwork ice baroque print shirt, $1,225, and wool gabardine stretch pants, $675, Versace, B.H., 310-205-3921. Polo Ralph Lauren blue/white striped shirt, $145, and blue/cream striped shirt, $125, select Polo Ralph Lauren stores; ralphlauren.com. p.215 Dolce & Gabbana white collar shirtdress with embellished bows, $3,845, and silk and lace slip dress, $3,845, Dolce and Gabbana, B.H., 310-888-8710; dolcegabbana.com. Graziela Gems baby yellow baguette band ring, $1,620, and wave band in yellow, $190, graziela gems.com. EF Collection Electric diamond zigzag ring, $625, EF Collection, 323-9526065. Michael Kors Collection white poly spazzolato pumps, $775, michaelkors.com.

Makeup: Kett Cosmetics foundation, powder and blush, kettcosmetics.com. Skin Elegance Vitalash Mascara, $28, skinelegance.com.

MAC Cosmetics eyebrow pencil, from $17, maccosmetics.com. Hourglass highlighter, hourglasscosmetics.com.

Shopping Guide

ELECTRIC AVENUE p.184 Burberry Fringe Coat in ochre yellow herringbone jacquard wool silk, $3,695, Metallic lime scattered flower printed metallic jacquard dress, $2,595, and the Patchwork Bag, $2,495, Burberry, B.H., 310-550-4500. Konstantino 18-karat gold rings, $7,160 and $6,485, neiman marcus.com. Darner Socks silver velvet socks, $40, darnersocks.com. Christian Louboutin Miziggoo Sandals, $1,095, Christian Louboutin, Costa Mesa, 714-754-9200. p.185 Louis Vuitton tech knit dress, price upon request, asymmetric printed skirt, price upon request, monogram reverse cruiser, $3,300, and Star Trail ankle boots, $1,441, louisvuitton.com. Sylvie Corbelin double Intientiee ring, $3,500, Church Boutique, L.A., 323-876-8887. p.186 Chanel dress, $42,300, Chanel, B.H., 310-278-5500.

Bally cropped fur jacket, $6,925, Bally, B.H., 310-247-1012. Buccellati gold and diamond pendant earrings, $17,500, and gold and diamond band ring, $6,300, Buccellati Beverly Hills, B.H., 310-276-7022. Darner Socks gold velvet socks, $40, darnersocks.com. Jimmy Choo Trick black shiny leather buckled sandals, $1,250, Jimmy Choo, B.H., 310-860-9045. p.187 Bottega Veneta leopard calfskin coat in dark birch black, $14,500, Bottega Veneta, 800845-6790. Tadashi Shoji tribal-motif paillette

COTTON CLUB p.206 Loewe dress with draped top layer,

PHOTO FINISH p.226 Elizabeth and James Tessa dolman-sleeve top, $225, Bloomingdale’s, C.M. Sonia Rykiel denim and suede patchwork pant, $640, sonia rykiel.com. Ralph Lauren Collection belt, $395, ralphlauren.com.

C Magazine September 2016 is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310-393-3800, Fax 310-393-3899, E-mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 460248, Escondido, CA 92046. Subscriptions Telephone 800-775-3066 or E-mail cmagcustomerservice@pcspublink.com.

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SEPTEMBER 2016 C 223

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SAN FRANCISCO 1.

A view of North Beach, Fisherman’s Wharf and Coit Tower.

Whether VINTAGE shopping on Haight or gallery-hopping in The Mission, embrace your inner FREE SPIRIT with fall’s eclectic pieces Edited by LINDSAY KINDELON 1. LANVIN suede waist belt, $855, net-a-porter.com.

2. MARCO BICEGO Lunaria Multicolor gemstone necklace, $2,660, marco bicego.com. 3. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Silk Road print scarf, $380.

4. OLIVER PEOPLES THE ROW After Midnight Sunglasses, $450, barneys .com. 5. ELIZABETH AND JAMES Lucent earrings, $175, bloomingdales.com.

6. RED VALENTINO ruffletrimmed dress, $1,095, net-a-porter.com.

7. M MISSONI Fall/Winter 2016. 8. GIORGIO ARMANI double ankle-strap printed floral Decollete heels, $1,095, armani.com.

9. DIOR medium canvas patchwork Diorama bag, $5,000, dior.com.

10. CHLOÉ printed silkcrepon blouse, $1,250, net-a-porter.com. 11. SAINT LAURENT Babies brocade ankle boots, $995, net-aporter.com. 12. MIU MIU Fall/Winter 2016. 13. GUCCI Fall/Winter 2016. 14. DRIES VAN NOTEN Envelope clutch, $820, barneys.com.

When In

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C Insider

BUELL: JUSTIN BUELL. S.F. SKYLINE: AUBRIE PICK

SABRINA BUELL

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“I love that San Francisco has become one of the most important cities in the world from a cultural and intellectual perspective, and yet it maintains the feeling of a small town,” says art advisor Sabrina Buell. The co-chair of SFMOMA’s new Contemporaries program (launching this month), Buell resides in Cow Hollow with her fiancé, industrial designer Yves Béhar, and their four children. Here, her favorite spots. • Pacifica State Beach I love to surf here on weekday mornings. Fall is the best time of the year for waves.

• Ratio 3 The most beautiful space in the city. No matter what’s on view, the installation is always spectacular. ratio3 .org. • SFMOMA I’m really looking forward to the Bruce Conner retrospective—he’s a hometown hero. sfmoma.org.

• Hero Shop Emily Holt’s new space has the bestcurated clothes and objects. heroshopsf.com. • The Presidio Filled with hiking trails such as Lovers’ Lane and Lands End, it’s also the site for Andy Goldsworthy’s land art.

• Alta Plaza Playground While your kids play you can enjoy the amazing 360-degree city views. • Altman Siegel Gallery I find myself wanting to buy something from every show.

I’m excited for the opening of the new space at Minnesota Street Project this fall. altmansiegel.com.

PHOTOfinish

SARAH GADON “My dad’s a therapist, and I often think that what I do is similar to that,” says Sarah Gadon, 29. “I find human beings and their psychological development fascinating.” So it comes as no surprise that the former ballet dancer and then-university student got her big break in 2011 when director David Cronenberg cast her in A Dangerous Method, a historical thriller that delves into the early work of Carl Jung and Sigmund Freud (she also starred in Cronenberg’s 2012 drama Cosmopolis).

This month, the actor’s intellectual curiosity manifests itself further in her leading role alongside Jamie Dornan and Aaron Paul as a mother struggling with her son’s possible psychosis in the Alexandre Aja-directed supernatural thriller The 9th Life of Louis Drax. “I did a lot of work crafting the character and creating what I thought would be an interesting part for her,” says Gadon, who splits time among her native Toronto, New York, London and Los Angeles for work. Up next: a starring role in the recently announced Netflix adaptation of Margaret Atwood’s Alias Grace. Says Gadon, “Making a piece like this, which is all about women in history, women being lost in history, construction of female identity, memory—I’m just so excited.” •

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