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Anniversary FALL

FASHION ISSUE

KELLY LYNCH & MITCH GLAZER’S NEUTRA ESCAPE IN STUDIO WITH DAVID HOCKNEY LOVE LETTERS TO OUR GOLDEN STATE SEPTEMBER 2015 $5.99

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THE BEST OF SUMMER IN CALIFORNIA

â&#x153;ˇ The Ultimate Outdoor Room â&#x153;ˇ Chef Suzanne Goinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dream Picnic â&#x153;ˇ 30 Warm-Weather Fashion Picks

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SPECIAL FASHION ISSUE

RUNWAY DISPATCH THE SEASONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOST STRIKING, ART-INSPIRED TRENDS

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SEPTEMBER 2015

TOD’S leather dress.

Features

196 Into the WOODS

Deep in Santa Cruz’s redwood grove, under a verdant canopy, the season’s embellished separates and rich, textured fabrics breathe new life into the ancient forest floor.

210 HOME on the RANGE For Kelly Lynch and Mitch Glazer, a beloved Neutra residence in Lone Pine offers a high-design retreat with a taste of the American West.

TOC 1

222 HELLO to all THIS

Saying goodbye to New York is a literary tradition: a pursuit made famous by Joan Didion. We invited a group of accomplished writers based in L.A.—a city increasingly viewed by many to be the incumbent cultural center of the country— to offer their own reversal on the genre.

228 #UNFILTERED

Kim Kardashian West on moguldom, motherhood and what it means to be a California girl.

234

VALENTINO gown.

234 It’s a MOD MOD world Throwback Thursday and Flashback Friday just got a lot more chic: This fall, ’60s mod—replete with shortened hemlines, bold colors and statement coats—makes a welcome return.

ON OUR COVER

246 Gaining PERSPECTIVE

KIM KARDASHIAN WEST photographed by Kesler Tran at El Mirage Dry Lake. HAIR Chris McMillan. MAKEUP Mario Dedivanovic.

With a new show at L.A. Louver in Venice, artist David Hockney revisits his passion for technology with a series of mesmerizing new works.

C 50 SEPTEMBER 2015

228

196

“HOME ON THE RANGE”: DEWEY NICKS. “ITS A MOD MOD WORLD”: RENÉ & RADKA. “INTO THE WOODS”: SILJA MAGG. “#UNFILTERED”: KESLER TRAN. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, P.253

210


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CONTENTS Departments 68 FOUNDER’S Letter Here’s looking at you, California.

Who’s who behind the scenes of C.

95 To CALI, with LOVE Celebrating our great state, with a little help from our friends.

157 181

101 C WHAT’S HOT

Inside Libertine’s new flagship. Frank Gehry gets candid. Los Angeles designers on the rise. Slow fashion, by way of San Francisco.

124 REPORTS from the SOCIAL FRONT 137 C FASHION

Rodarte marks a decade of intricately crafted designs. Your guide to fall fashion: from top runway trends to edgy pearl jewels.

157 C BEAUTY

The Golden State’s premier beauty blogs dish on their autumn musings and makeup bag must-haves.

TOC 2165

165 C DESIGN

Pattern play: Gregory Parkinson forays into the decor realm with a richly colored home collection. Fixtures on the scene: the latest lighting trends.

116

173 C MENU

Shiva Rose and cohorts go au naturel. Top acts in the Bay Area restaurant scene. Mama Shelter’s Benjamin Bailly breaks down his ingredient list for fall.

101

181 C TRAVEL

Swept away: Rosetta Getty and friends retreat to a Tuscan villa. Tommy Hilfiger scores a touchdown in Beijing.

187 C CULTURE

L.A.’s highly anticipated contemporary art museum, The Broad, bows Downtown.

253 SHOPPING Guide 254 C CALIFORNIA

Insta-famous artist Donald Drawbertson puts his stamp on a Slim Aarons classic.

C 56 SEPTEMBER 2015

137

TOP: COURTESY OF HONEST BEAUTY. BUST: ANGELA PHAM/BILLY FARRELL AGENCY. RODARTE: COURTESY OF RODARTE. ZILBER: JESSICA SAMPLE. PARKINSON: NICOLE L A MOTTE. HARTIG: ISAAC ALVARE

76 C PEOPLE


309 North Rodeo Drive 310.859.4700 South Coast Plaza 714.549.4700

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JENNIFER HALE

Founder & Editorial Director LESLEY CAMPOY

President & Publisher JENNY MURRAY

Editor

JAMES TIMMINS

RENEE MARCELLO

Art Director

Associate Publisher

KELSEY McKINNON

CRISTA VAGHI

Senior Editor

Southern California Director

HEATHER SEVERS

ALEXANDRA VON BARGEN

Style Director

Jewelry & Watch Director

ANDREA STANFORD

DEBBIE FLYNN

Design & Interiors Editor

Beauty & Home Director

SHADI BECCAI

AUTUMN O’KEEFE

Market Editor

Northwest Director

ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER

TAMMI DELANEY

Arts & Culture Editor

Development Director

MARGOT FODOR

ANNE MARIE PROVENZA

Masthead

Photo Editor

Development Manager

MARIANNE MICHAELS

KRISTA NATALI

Associate Photo Editor

Marketing Manager

JULIE WEBB

TROY FELKER

Designer

Finance Associate

ROBERT RICHMOND

SANDY HUBBARD

Digital Image Specialist LINDSAY KINDELON

Assistant Editor

Information Technology Director ALLISON OLESKEY

Special Projects Director, SHO & Company Inc. LESLEY McKENZIE

Deputy Editor

San Francisco Editor-at-Large Diane Dorrans Saeks Contributing Editor-at-Large Kendall Conrad Style Editor-at-Large George Kotsiopoulos Senior Contributing Editor Melissa Goldstein Contributing Digital Editor Elizabeth Varnell Copy Editors Richard Cordova, Lily Maximo Villanueva Contributing Designer Chad Weaver Special Projects Contributors Stephanie Steinman, Danielle DiMeglio

Contributing Editors Suzanne Rheinstein, Cameron Silver, Michael S. Smith, Jamie Tisch, Nathan Turner, Mish Tworkowski, Hutton Wilkinson Contributing Writers Molly Creeden, Cat Doran, Heather John Fogerty, Marshall Heyman, Christine Lennon, Martha McCully, Degen Pener Contributing Photographers Mark Abrahams, David Cameron, Roger Davies, Lisa Eisner, Christopher Ferguson, Douglas Friedman, René & Radka, Lisa Romerein, Hilary Walsh, Wiliams & Hirakawa

Interns Jackie Beyer, Kelley Buck, Elizabeth Goldsmith, Sarah Link, Karlie Mejia, Emma Newbern, Ali Stagnitta, Keely Wold C PUBLISHING LLC

TEYMOUR BOUTROS-GHALI

Chairman

ANDY NELSON

Chief Financial Officer C MAGAZINE 1543 Seventh Street, 2nd Floor, Santa Monica, CA 90401, 310-393-3800 SUBSCRIBER SERVICE 800-775-3066

MAGAZINEC.COM CSOCIALFRONT.COM C-HOME.COM


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FOUNDER’S LETTER

California cool is on everyone’s lips these days. When The New York Times suggests “Los Angeles is becoming Paris amid the palms,” you know something big is happening here (specifically in the art, fashion, tech and culinary realms). It’s a dramatic shift from more than a decade ago, when the concept of C was first being batted around New York publishing circles. The idea was met with a lot of resistance: A national-quality magazine dedicated to the vast state of California sounded unfeasible to most. How could the north and south be brought together seamlessly on the same pages? Easily, we argued, as our residents are always “first to know, first to try,” and want to be aware of what is new and noteworthy wherever in the state they happen to be. C was born 10 years ago this month. We are always happy to look back and get sentimental, but at the height of this marker, we continue to evolve the publication, just as our state is evolving. Whether it’s through our fresh new look (thanks to our incoming art director, James Timmins), brand extensions—C for Men, C Weddings and C Home—or digital initiatives, C will continue to grow as the arbiter of California style. Speaking of changes, a lot has happened elsewhere in the world of media in the last decade including, most notably, the domination of both reality television and social media. Cover subject Kim Kardashian West has emerged as a leader of both packs, taking the two platforms and raising them to new, unimaginable heights. She has metamorphosed from yet another socialite, in a town filled with industry progeny, into an unstoppable, global business force who continues to surprise her seemingly insatiable audience. The girl from Calabasas turned cultural phenom has created a true empire—from TV to retail to tech—and is a modern-day woman balancing motherhood and family with career, and doing it successfully, to say the least. Whatever you think about her, she’s helping to shape a conversation—something we’ve also always set out to do. We’ve only begun to scratch the surface of life on the Best Coast (yes, I said it!) and look forward to the next 10 years of reporting stories about this amazing, innovative place we get to call home. It has been and continues to be an incredible ride. We thank you for your part in getting us to where we are today, firmly rooted in this striking, rugged, breathtakingly beautiful California landscape.

Founder’s Letter

JENNIFER HALE

We’d love to hear from you. Please send letters to edit@magazinec.com.

C 68 SEPTEMBER 2015

AZABRA PHOTOGRAPHY

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C PEOPLE Who’s who behind the scenes of this month’s issue, plus their favorite California places

Kris Zero “I was thrilled when asked to work on this story for the 10th-anniversary issue—quintessential California redwoods? Yes!” says Kris Zero, the stylist behind our fall fashion portfolio “Into the Woods,” p.196. The West Coast creative’s clients include Harper’s Bazaar, InStyle and V Magazine, and she has worked on campaigns from Tom

C People 1

Liza Powel O’Brien “I didn’t know I had quite so much to say about Los Angeles, but once I started writing I discovered six years’ worth of reflection on the subject. Delving into it was a surprisingly enjoyable task; luckily there was a deadline or I might still be prattling on,” says playwright Liza Powel O’Brien, who opens up about her move to L.A. in “Hello to All This,” p.222. A Seattle native, she currently calls L.A.’s Westside home. C SPOTS • Sqirl in Silver Lake for the Stella rice bowl • Sunday mornings at The Hollywood Farmers’ Market • Hiking hidden trails in Malibu

C 76 SEPTEMBER 2015

Degen Pener “It’s inspiring to see someone who doesn’t seem to age in terms of his creativity and output,” says writer Degen Pener of his interview subject, renowned English artist David Hockney, for “Gaining Perspective,” p.246. “Getting a firsthand view into his process was revealing.” When Pener, who also interviewed starchitect Frank Gehry for this issue, isn’t contributing to The New York Times, Elle Décor and The Hollywood Reporter, he’s adding to California’s botanical splendor: “My big summer project was hand-pollinating the large cherimoya fruit tree in our front yard.” C SPOTS • Lotusland Botanical Garden in Montecito • The Colony Palms Hotel in Palm Springs • The Hart and the Hunter at Palihotel

Mario Dedivanovic “I love working on location for shoots,” says makeup guru to the stars Mario Dedivanovic, who created the subtle transformations for Kim Kardashian West’s cover shoot. The NYC-based artist has also worked with clients like Jennifer Lopez and Chrissy Teigen, and has garnered so much attention that he has launched a master class series along with Mrs. West herself. C SPOTS • Rose Bowl Flea Market—a great source of inspiration • Naimie’s Beauty Center in North Hollywood—as makeup junkies know, there’s never enough! • République in L.A.

ZERO: ALEX ARISTEI. POWEL O’BRIEN: MEGHAN SINCLAIR

Ford to Levi’s. C SPOTS • Osmosis Day Spa in Sonoma County for Cedar Enzyme Baths • The small coastal town of Jenner—it’s hauntingly beautiful • Paddling the Laguna de Santa Rosa


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Katya Riabinkina “It is always great to shoot with an amazing team in a beautiful location,” muses Russian model Katya Riabinkina, who posed amid towering trees for this month’s fashion feature “Into the Woods,” p.196. Riabinkina has walked in fashion shows for the likes of Alexander Wang and Prada, and has shot campaigns for Calvin Klein and Armani Exchange. C SPOTS • San Diego’s Salk Institute • Laili restaurant in Santa Cruz for the lamb kebabs • The Contemporary Jewish Museum in S.F.

C People 2

James Timmins “After moving from London to Milan, New York and now L.A., my gypsy ways have finally come to a wonderful end,” says James Timmins, C’s new art director, who recently settled in Laurel Canyon. Formerly the art director of Laird + Partners in Manhattan, where he worked on a variety of fashion, luxury and lifestyle campaigns, the British-born creative cut his teeth as a designer at Vogue Italia. C SPOTS • Motorcycle rides in the Malibu canyons • Weekends in Big Sur • Furniture shopping at Twentieth in L.A.

C 82 SEPTEMBER 2015

Melissa Goldstein “I find it fascinating hearing about the twists and turns that bring people to the places where they choose to settle,” says C Senior Contributing Editor Melissa Goldstein of writing “Home on the Range,” p.210, and editing “Hello to All This,” p.222. Based in Santa Monica, Goldstein has written for titles including Elle, Spin, WSJ Europe, The Observer, Intelligent Life and Monocle. C SPOTS • The Pikey, for a dose of London on Sunset • Garde— I’d like my house, closet and life to look like this • The Courtyard Kitchen in Santa Monica for banana-blueberry pancakes alfresco

“This was my first time in Santa Cruz—I am definitely coming back one day,” says the lenswoman behind “Into the Woods,” p.196, Silja Magg. The Icelandic photographer flew in from New York City, where she regularly shoots for publications like GQ and Elle, and recently held her first solo exhibition at Milk Gallery. C SPOTS • Haight Street in San Francisco • Malibu beach • The redwoods in Santa Cruz—it feels very Alice in Wonderland

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Log on to MAGAZINEC.COM for more on the 10th ANNIVERSARY issue and to sign up for the csocialfront.com newsletter to get the INSIDE SCOOP on parties, designers and trendsetters sent straight to your inbox

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A Beverly Hills abode provided the ideal setting for this season’s bold throwback ensembles (“It’s a Mod Mod World,” p.234).

Luminary artist David Hockney paints an extraordinary picture of his daily life (“Gaining Perspective,” p.246).

C 88 SEPTEMBER 2015

We ventured into Santa Cruz’s redwood forest to size up autumn’s enchanted silhouettes (“Into the Woods,” p.196).

Hanneli Mustaparta and Gaia Weiss get down during Rosetta Getty’s Italian countryside bash (“Escape Artists,” p.181).

Photographer Dewey Nicks found himself between a rock and a hard place on set in Lone Pine (“Home on the Range,” p.210).

A visit to Matt Dick’s S.F. studio offers a glimpse into the textile expert’s wellcrafted world (“Basic Instincts,” p.114).

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TO CALI, WITH

In celebration of C ’s 10th ANNIVERSARY, a few of our FRIENDS share why the GOLDEN STATE holds a special place in their HEARTS

Tatjana Patitz

Model & Actress “I love the golden light, the blue, blue skies, and the smell of jasmine and orange blossom in the spring. It’s divine!”

Hutton Wilkinson Interior Designer

Jewelry Designer

“I love everything about you, from the mountains to the sea and your sunshine and beauty in between.”

Barbara Bestor

Chef

Fashion Designer

“I came to you with just a single suitcase, but then a crazy little thing called love happened.”

“From Led Zeppelin’s ‘Going to California’: ‘Spent my days with a woman unkind / Smoked my stuff and drank all my wine / Made up my mind to make a new start / Going to California with an aching in my heart.’”

10th SuzanneFOB Rheinstein

“Thank you for all the things about you that I love: for the sun, sea, mountains, desert, stars in the sky, hot days and cool nights, the history of the old Californios, the missions, the movies— and the envy of the rest of the world.”

Jennifer Meyer Maguire

Curtis Stone

Gela Nash-Taylor

George Kotsiopoulos Stylist

Interior Designer

“I have fallen prey to your seductive slanting light of winter….”

Monique Lhuillier Designer

“When we first met, I could have never imagined that our journey would lead us here.”

Architect

“I love you for inspiring so many generations of architects to explore new forms for living, especially the amazing opportunities for living a good portion of our lives outdoors and giving us the freedom to explore new ways of living together— including our many new kinds of nontraditional families!”

“We are so lucky to live here.”

Elad Lassry Artist

“I’d tell her she’s a funky lady, hard to figure out, and very sexy. She could benefit from reading more though.”

Todd Selby

Photographer, Illustrator & Director “You are the orange of my eye.”

Gray Malin

Photographer “You make me feel alive.”

Alexis Traina Vintner

“There is a reason we pay the taxes we do to live in this majestic state.” SEPTEMBER 2015 C 95


LETTERS

Suzanne Goin

Trevor Traina

Chef

Entrepreneur

“Exploring behind our house in the Hollywood Hills with my sister. It smelled of fennel and dust and dried wild mint; we looked out to the bustling city below while feeling at the top of our own lost and private world.”

“My whole life we’ve had a summer home and vineyard in Oakville. I remember late summer days, my parents taking us for drives to watch the sun set, and later, biking through the vineyards to the Oakville Grocery (which was a general store back then) to buy cold 16-ounce bottles of Coca-Cola.”

Katherine Ross

Fashion Consultant “When I was 21 years old, I worked at The Greek Theatre in Griffith Park and organized the house seats for people like Lew Wasserman, Elizabeth Taylor and Mo Ostin. It was a great introduction to Hollywood.”

Nancy Meyers

Kate Somerville Esthetician

“I have many memories of being in the mountains and, three hours later, walking on the beach. I love both the Sierras and the Pacific Ocean.”

Margrit Mondavi

Writer & Director

Vintner

(most recently of The Intern )

“I arrived in L.A. when I was 22. It was early afternoon, and by the time the sun went down, I knew I wanted to live here forever.”

“Enjoying a 1974 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve with [the late] Robert [Mondavi] and friends at our home in Napa with a beautiful homemade meal and lively conversation lasting well into the night.”

10th FOB

Sophie Buhai

Jewelr y & Interior Designer

Douglas Friedman Photographer

“We came to L.A. for a family vacation; I remember wandering away at the hotel pool, somewhere in Santa Monica, because I was drawn to a TV production that was going on. And before I knew it, at 10 years old, I had talked my way into a role as an extra. It was a very Hollywood moment.”

“Being driven to school by my dad in his ’80s Mustang convertible. The top was down year-round, and there were always gas station cassette tapes with hits from the ’60s blasting.”

Developer

“I have spent most of my life here so I have so many memories. Of course, I remember going to Disneyland as a child but I also remember the ‘slow,’ ‘medium’ and ‘fast’ lanes at Pony Land, where the Beverly Center stands today.”

Wolfgang Puck Chef

Nathan Turner Interior Designer

“The time I spent at my family’s ranch in Northern California: the dry heat, the smell of eucalyptus, alfalfa and cattle, and picking wild blackberries.”

Catherine Opie Photographer

Kathryn Ireland

Interior & Textile Designer “I remember arriving and being taken to the Colony by my friend Sabrina Guinness for lunch, and I thought, I’ve arrived.” C 96 SEPTEMBER 2015

James Rosenfield

“In 1975, my parents took us to Black Beach in San Diego to climb down the steep and rocky cliffs with our new Hansen longboard. It was my first summer in CA after leaving Ohio; I was just 14 and new to the California dream. We made it down, and to our surprise—but not my father’s—it was a nude beach.”

“I arrived in 1974 and immediately checked into a hotel Downtown. My first question was, ‘Where is the Pacific?’ The concierge said, ‘Venice Boulevard until it ends.’ I arrived on the beach and I thought, ‘This is the place where I want to live.’ ”

Jenni Kayne

Fashion Designer “Growing up riding horses in Topanga—it’s something my daughter Ripley and I do together now.”


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Jeffrey Alan Marks Interior Designer

“Nickey Kehoe in L.A. is the perfect shop for sophisticated bohemian gifts, home accessories and vintage furniture—all encapsulating the California spirit.”

Thomas Keller Chef

“In-N-Out Burger. I’ll never forget my first time. It was such a revelation to go to a fastfood hamburger restaurant and experience that level of quality. I like to order the cheeseburger with extra-crispy fries.”

Michael Govan

CEO & Director of LACMA

Ken Fulk

Interior Designer & Event Planner “Manka’s Inverness Lodge, where my favorite room is the boathouse. It’s perched on a wharf stretching into Tomales Bay—a true slice of heaven.”

“If California has a temple worthy of the world’s greatest ancient architecture, it’s Louis Kahn’s sublime Salk Institute, made of concrete, wood, water and light.”

Irene Neuwirth Jewelry Designer

“Walking through the Venice Canals with my Labradoodle, Teddy. It’s home and I love it!”

Fashion & Interior Designer “RTH, my favorite store in L.A. Ever since I discovered their custom-made dropcrotch pants I can’t wear anything else.”

Pamela Skaist-Levy Fashion Designer

“Tavin Boutique in Echo Park is a well-curated shop of amazing vintage dresses. I hate to give up my source, but it’s really fantastic.”

Dede Wilsey

10th FOB

Ludo Lefebvre

Mark D. Sikes

Philanthropist

“Dottie Doolittle on Sacramento Street in San Francisco. I always wanted to dress a little girl, but had nothing but boys, so when I finally got two granddaughters, I was in ecstasy.”

David B. Agus Doctor

“Driving through Silicon Valley excites me every time. Seeing the companies changing the world, many created by old friends, is truly inspiring!”

Chef

“Zuma Beach in Malibu, because it’s more of a local beach than a tourist beach. For lunch I love to get the grilled fish at Malibu Seafood Restaurant.”

Rosetta Getty

Fashion Designer “Just One Eye for their excellent shopping. Paola [Russo] does an incredible job of curating the best art, books, design, fashion and jewelry.”

José Eber Hairstylist

“The intimate location, gorgeous fields of lavender, luscious gardens and some of the most exquisite dining I have ever tasted make anyone who visits San Ysidro Ranch feel special.”

Todd Traina Producer

Elizabeth Stewart Stylist

“We love to go to Cholada, a little Thai shack on Pacific Coast Highway, for tom kha gai soup and the best chicken satay ever.” C 98 SEPTEMBER 2015

“The Petrified Forest, which lies between Santa Rosa and Calistoga, is pretty mind-blowing. It’s almost surreal to walk among trees that are so ancient and regal and lofty.”


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WH (opener)

Cult Couture After 14 years of slow and steady, Johnson Hartig’s LIBERTINE catapults forward with a massive Los Angeles FLAGSHIP and a gleaming new PHOTO BOOK

Edited by KELSEY McKINNON

SEPTEMBER 2015 C 101


WHAT’S HOT

Clockwise from left: A look from Libertine’s fall collection. Models on the runway during the men and women’s show. Hartig in the new atelier. The artfilled showroom.

C 102 SEPTEMBER 2015

WH (turn)

From above: Hands Crewneck cashmere sweater, $1,700, Neiman Marcus. Hartig’s “Citrus House” residence. Libertine: The Creative Beauty, Humor, and Inspiration Behind the Cult Label (Rizzoli, $65).

Libertine got its start 14 years ago producing one-of-a-kind, silk-screened vintage pieces. After Hartig and his business partner of eight years, Cindy Greene, parted ways in 2009, it took some time for him to find his own rhythm. Today, more and more of the Libertine collection is new construction, though Hartig says the brand will never exist without its signature vintage pieces. Recent trunk shows with Bergdorf Goodman have been buying frenzies. “It used to be a cool kind of downtown girl who wore Libertine, but now it’s this uptown lady who wears the best of the best,” Hartig says. As for the urban, hip-hop shift in the menswear collection, which he shows on the women’s runway (Hartig only does fall and spring collections), it’s largely inspired by the eclectic concept boutique Wild Style on Melrose Avenue. “We are still a cult label,” Hartig assures. “I only have 27,000 Instagram followers.” By appointment, 1124 N. Citrus Ave., L.A., 323-424-7112; @officiallibertine; ilovelibertine.com. • KELSEY MCKINNON

RUNWAY: MITCHELL SAMS. HARTIG: ISAAC ALVAREZ. STUDIO AND INTERIOR: JOHNSON HARTIG

Johnson Hartig realized his Libertine team had outgrown their Hancock Park studio when they could no longer see the walls. It had only been two years since they’d moved in, but business was booming, and stuff was everywhere. Hartig’s friend Joel Chen of JF Chen gallery informed him of a massive space just five minutes from Hartig’s house and, with that, the fashion world’s beloved maverick was on the move. Hartig delights in putting his stamp on the former warehouse, which will double as a by-appointment atelier. “I’m an inherent collector…it looks like this place is already on its way to being junked up,” he says. As he’ll tell you in the introduction of his first book, Libertine: The Creative Beauty, Humor, and Inspiration Behind the Cult Label (Rizzoli, $65), out this month, Hartig is a lover of beauty in every medium—interior design (his home has been featured in countless design books), art (for many years, Hartig and artist Damien Hirst would trade clothing for paintings), gardening and travel. The designer grew up in Whittier and his father worked for an oil company, which required the family to make frequent trips abroad. “I think it just instilled a wanderlust in me. I can’t stay still very long,” he says. Hartig takes up to eight vacations each year, in addition to work trips to New York and Paris.


Bally


WHAT’S HOT

Tastemaker

1. 2.

5.

4.

Julia LEACH

After leading a bicoastal life for many years, designer Julia Leach finally packed up her New York apartment for good earlier this year. The Venice transplant can now be found cycling along the ocean and horseback riding in Quiet Canyon when she’s not busy working on Chance, her line of travel-inspired basics. This season, she introduces solid knits to the lineup of signature stripes, in addition to West Coast beach towels—an ode to her new Cali beginnings. Here, her must-have list for a well-heeled Indian summer. 1. HELMUT LANG jacket, $395, net-aporter.com. 2. SQIRL restaurant, 720 N. Virgil Ave., L.A. 3. VAUBEL bracelet, $1,050, Garde. 4. GIANVITO ROSSI sandals, $790, Elyse Walker. 5. ASSEMBLY LOS ANGELES, 7977 Melrose Ave., L.A. 6. HEATH CERAMICS Alabama Chanin salad bowl, $288. 7. OBJECT Carl Auböck salad servers, $375. 8. RETREAT: RETREAT: THE MODERN HOUSE IN NATURE,, $55, Rizzoli. 9. bX bX CERAMICS sake set, $98. 10. CHANCE CHANCE East/ West beach towel, $85. 11. KENDALL KENDALL CONRAD DESIGN Figueres bag, $1,300. 12. MATTHEW MATTHEW PORTER archival pigment print, Lonely Are the Brave, 2008. 13. YES,, 954 S. Broadway, L.A. 14. 14. SAINT SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE boots, $995. 15. The The Dodos’ album INDIVID, $10.

C 104 SEPTEMBER 2015

7. 8.

6.

WH (bits) 10.

9.

11. 12. 13.

14.

15.

LEACH: NICOLE L A MOTTE FOR ONE KINGS LANE. SQIRL: SCOTT BARRY. ASSEMBLY: JEFF McLANE. LONELY ARE THE BRAVE: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND M+B GALLERY. YES: JUSTIN SEGURA

3.


Farfetch


MASTER Plans

Ahead of his retrospective at LACMA, Frank GEHRY sits down with C to discuss all the nuts and bolts Frank Gehry doesn’t like picking favorites among his buildings, but fans can choose their own—from Walt Disney Concert Hall to Spain’s Guggenheim Museum Bilbao— when a sweeping retrospective of his work opens at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art on Sept. 13. In addition to spotlighting more than 200 drawings and 66 models, the show (on view through March 20) will examine his innovative use of software to digitally manipulate plans in 3-D. Here, the 86-year-old spatial mastermind—whose recent projects include the ethereal new Fondation Vuitton museum in Paris, a rippled 76-story tower in downtown Manhattan and a wide-ranging new plan to remake the concrete-encased Los Angeles River—opens up on the lay of the land. DEGEN PENER L.A. is rapidly densifying. How do you think this will change its character? Frank Gehry: L.A. has always expanded horizontally, practically since it was established. Wilshire Boulevard extends from the Pacific Ocean all the way to Downtown and that corridor is full of the most diverse group of people—economically, socially, racially.

C 106 SEPTEMBER 2015

WH (bits)

That kind of thing doesn’t exist in many cities. Densifying is a great thing and can only bring those groups more closely together. What has kept you in L.A. since you arrived in the late ’40s? I fell in with the artists pretty early on and they showed me a side of L.A. that was very liberating. We were all flying below the radar of the New York scene and there was a great freedom in that. We all experimented in our work and supported each other. They taught me how to trust my intuition. The Walt Disney Concert Hall you designed opened more than 10 years ago. What are one or two of your favorite performances you’ve seen there? Listening to the very first notes played in the Hall, before it was even finished, was probably the most emotional for me. A few months ago, I was crying after Mahler 6. When have you been happiest in a work of architecture, whether one of your own buildings or someone else’s? Ronchamp [Notre Dame du Haut in France] is a beautiful place that always brings tears to my eyes. I think it is a masterpiece. Continued on p.252

Clockwise from top left: Frank Gehry in a cardboard chair of his own design. The Frederick R. Weisman Art and Teaching Museum, Minnesota. A design sketch of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, 1991. NationaleNederlanden building, Prague.

GEHRY: JOHN B. CARNETT/GETTY. WEISMAN: DON F. WONG. GUGGENHEIM: COURTESY OF GEHRY PARTNERS, LLP. NATIONALE-NEDERLANDEN: COURTESY OF GEHRY PARTNERS, LLP

WHAT’S HOT


Van Cleef & Arpels

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WHAT’S HOT Left: The New York location was also designed by NeueHouse Studio in collaboration with architect David Rockwell. Below: The CBS building circa the 1960s; it’s now the site of NeueHouse Los Angeles.

CÉLINE Large Twisted Cabas calfskin bag, $2,350.

ORANGE COUNTY

SMOOTH Moves

HOLLYWOOD

Business CASUAL

DAVID YURMAN Bubblegum Pinky Ring with licorice-scented resin, $875.

collection—plus a range of wish list-topping accessories including the debut of the oversized Twisted Cabas bag—are up for grabs at the Parisian label’s new South Coast Plaza boutique. 3333 Bristol St., Ste. 1423, C.M., 714-957-1255; celine.com.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

In Situ(bits) WH Bret Witke, the creative maestro behind such beloved projects as Jar, République and Salt Air, opens Witke. The design emporium is filled with rare finds including Craig Kauffman prints, a 1938 Jean Royère dining table and custom inhouse pieces. 8281 Melrose Ave., W.H., 323-782-1757; witkedesigngroup.com.

SAN FRANCISCO

Urban OUTFITTER Rock Candy Chew on this: David Yurman has put a playful twist on the iconic signet ring. The Bubblegum Pinky Ring collection features scented resin (including grape, spearmint and cotton candy)—inspired by Yurman’s son Evan’s childhood—set on 14-karat rose and yellow gold bands. davidyurman.com.

C 108 SEPTEMBER 2015

MODERN CITIZEN Alana textured trench vest, $78.

With pop-up shops at the Facebook office and a gleaming e-commerce platform, Modern Citizen has been what founder Jessica Lee calls “omnichannel” since its 2014 beginnings. The Gap Inc. veteran launched the fashion concept with refined basics for sophisticated working women. Now, Lee embarks on the brand’s next channel, a brick-and-mortar showroom space in Cow Hollow. 2762 Octavia St., S.F.; modern-citizen.com.

Jessica Lee

WRITTEN BY LINDSAY KINDELON AND KELSEY McKINNON. NEUEHOUSE MADISON SQUARE: ERIC LAIGNEL VIA ROCKWELL GROUP. ARCHIVAL CBS: COURTESY OF THE LOS ANGELES PUBLIC LIBRARY PHOTO COLLECTION. WITKE: TORI WILLIS. LEE: BAILEY HARADA-STONE

With six floors of carefully integrated environs—including a bar, cabanas, a full-service restaurant and even a 100-person theater—at NeueHouse Los Angeles, a script could be written, sold, produced and screened all under one roof. Housed in the historic CBS Radio Building on Sunset Boulevard, NeueHouse’s noncorporate, membership-based office concept, which has a location in New York and one opening in London in early 2016, will provide headquarters for companies of one to 20 people, and endless networking opportunities opportunities. 6121 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 213-765-9876; neuehouse.com.

Céline’s dreamy deconstructed fall


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WHAT’S HOT CULVER CITY

Family Matters

STACK ’EM Up Fall’s heeled loafers step seamlessly from day to night

WH (bits)

V for Vuitton Louis Vuitton’s sequel to the Acte V Haute Joaillerie series, The Escape, takes its cue from early 1930s Streamline Moderne design. Art Deco silhouettes have been adapted for the 21st-century bon vivant and each piece is accented with a signature “V.” louisvuitton.com.

LOUIS VUITTON Newport earrings, price upon request.

C 110 SEPTEMBER 2015

From left: CHANEL $800. BOTTEGA VENETA $1,980. PRADA price upon request.

SAN FRANCISCO

Fresh Faced After a rejuvenating facial at Credo Beauty’s in-house Tata Harper Spa, visitors can peruse the new brick-and-mortar’s wide array of all-natural brands from Captain Blankenship to California Naturel and Dr. Alkaitis. And if you’re heading to one of the city’s big-ticket events this fall, experts behind the beauty bar will be at the ready. 2136 Fillmore St., S.F., 415-885-1800; credobeauty.com.

WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON. TOP, STUDIO: COURTESY OF THE WOOD KUSAKA STUDIOS; INSTALLATION: MARTIN WONG. CREDO: DAVID VERGNE

From top: Gagosian Gallery Hong Kong. Jonas Wood and Shio Kusaka work on pieces for the “Blackwelder” show. The industrial Blackwelder studio facade makes for an unexpected book cover.

Jonas Wood and Shio Kusaka’s recent show at the Gagosian Gallery Hong Kong was, according to Kusaka, all about “how our work influences and cross-pollinates.” Considering the pair met in 2000 at the University of Washington and are now married with two young children, there is substantial overlap. This month, the exhibit’s catalog, Blackwelder (Rizzoli, $50), named after the Culver City side street that houses Wood and Kusaka’s shared studio space, is being widely released. The vivid pages provide a glimpse into the lives of two of the city’s fastest rising talents and their live/work dynamic. “The kids [daughters Momo and Kiki] come to the studio and make paintings and things out of clay,” says Kusaka. Because the family that creates together…. gagosian.com.


Versace


WHAT’S HOT

Spanning the GLOBE AHLEM EYEWEAR Pigalle sunglasses, $420.

FAIRCLOTH & SUPPLY Conductor’s jacket, $175.

ATELIER DELPHINE The L.A. showroom.

Ahlem Eyewear

Faircloth & Supply

Atelier Delphine

Paris native Ahlem Manai-Platt moved to sunny California in 2013 and promptly launched her eponymous sunglasses line. The Mazzucchelli and vintage acetate Pigalle shades are designed in her Venice home studio, produced in France and named for the Paris neighborhood. ahlemeyewear.com.

Founded by designer Phoebe Dahl (the granddaughter of author Roald Dahl), this sustainable line takes a textbook approach to ethical fashion: For each handmade-in-L.A. piece sold, two uniforms are donated to a schoolgirl in Nepal. fairclothsupply.com.

Pasadena-based designer Yuka Izutsu’s collection takes loungewear to a new level. The Japanese-meets-Californian concept’s Downtown L.A. showroom, which opened earlier this year, also features the brand’s first foray into leather goods. atelierdelphine.com.

WH (bits)

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES

EURO-fornia “I was planning to open the first Austere store in New York, but spoke with Mikael Schiller [the chairman of Acne Studios], who suggested I check out Downtown L.A.,” says Fredrik Carlström, who was instantly persuaded by his fellow Swede to head west. Last year, Carlström opened a 5,000-squarefoot space filled with the finest Northern European design (think Mandal Veveri textiles, Louis Poulsen lighting and Artek furniture). Along with the upstairs art gallery, this season Austere adds a barbershop on the premises to complete the Scandi experience. 912 S. Hill St., L.A., 844-287-8373; austere.co.

SKARGAARDEN Nozib sun lounger, $2,880.

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VENICE

Branching Out Sean Knibb, a designer of The Line Hotel, is opening a hybrid retail/cafe/florist space, Flowerboy Project, off of his Venice design studio. A collaboration with Raan and Lindsay Parton of Alchemy Works, the spot features a curated selection of casual pieces from Apolis, Miansai and VereVerto, and jewelry from Vendome Aoyama and Gabriela Artigas on display. Freshly cut flowers are ready for arranging, and treats from Sugarbloom Bakery are always fresh out of the oven. What more could you possibly need? 824 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 310-452-3900; flowerboyproject.com.

WRITTEN BY KELSEY McKINNON. MANAI-PLATT: MELANIE ELBAZ. AHLEM EYEWEAR: BO PLATT. DAHL: FAIRCLOTH & SUPPLY. ATELIER STUDIO AND IZUTSU: YOSHIHIRO MAKINO. FLOWERBOY PROJECT: ART GRAY

With INSPIRATIONS including FRANCE, NEPAL AND JAPAN, three rising L.A. DESIGNERS expertly translate their world views


Mandarin Oriental


WHAT’S HOT Studio Visit From far left: Matt Dick. New works in studio. Below: Artist Julia Schwadron weekender, $400, bistro apron with leather ties, $175, and attaché, $325.

Basic Instincts Early-morning sunlight filters through steel-framed windows in designer Matt Dick’s Mission District atelier as he inspects stacks of handwoven cotton samples on his vintage desk. “At the heart of my operation is my obsessive search for authenticity, reviving honest organic fabrics, and paring design to its essence,” says Dick, who sources Old World textiles in Ireland, India and Japan for his five-year-old clothing and accessories line, Small Trade Company. Situated above the Heath Ceramics shop, the rough-hewn charm of his spacious loft (a refurbished former industrial laundry) highlights an artful collage of graceful unlined cotton jackets and indigo-dyed dresses, market baskets crafted from recycled jeans, and capacious linen/ hemp work aprons stacked near a line of sewing machines. “I had the great good fortune to be discovered in 1997 when I was an art and design student at California Colege of the Arts, and I began an intense apprenticeship in indigo dyeing and centuries-old Japanese textiles with Yasuo Nakajima, a fourth-generation textile company near Tokyo,” says Dick, who incorporates indigo in his signature fabrics as well as the two clothing collections he designs each year.

WH (bits)

Clockwise from above: Rare calendared indigo apron, $195. Llane Alexis braided baskets and vessels, prices upon request. Gray wool twill jacket, $495.

C 114 SEPTEMBER 2015

The Cupertino native produces superbly functional natural linen aprons worn by the staff at Bar Agricole, Farmshop and State Bird Provisions. And with private clients as diverse as Cristina and Lee Hudson of Hudson Wines, interior designers Kelly Lasser and Steven Volpe, and event planner Stanlee R. Gatti, Dick has become the city’s go-to source for minimalist sartorial. “Everything is a collaboration with specialist craftspeople. It takes many hands to create everything I do,” he says, gesturing to a handwoven cotton men’s tunic dyed with a natural ombré effect by a Japanese family dye house that uses volcanic ash and wood mulch to achieve the distinctive muted brown hue. In a world of fast fashion, this kind of deeply ingrained respect for tradition makes a bold impression. By appointment, 550 Florida St., S.F., 415-570-1019; smalltradecompany.com. • DIANE DORRANS SAEKS

LIFESTYLES AND APRONS: DANIEL DENT. BAGS: AYA BRACKETT

San Francisco APPAREL and product designer Matt Dick EXTOLS the slow-fashion movement


marcobicego.com

Marco Bicego

NEIMAN MARCUS - SAKS FIFTH AVENUE and your nearest fine jeweler


WHAT’S HOT At Home

Clockwise from left: Christina Zilber, with dogs Lola and Gigi, on a customdesigned ottoman by interior designer Jennie Abbott, who has worked with Zilber for years. The pool and cabana of Zilber’s Beverly Hills home, built by architect Paul Williams in 1920. In the foyer, a Ruth Bernhard photograph hangs above an antique French commode from Zilber’s family.

Sitting PRETTY

Christina Zilber’s HISTORIC home in Beverly Hills is a GLAMOROUS palette for the cosmetic queen’s ever-changing STYLE Photography by JESSICA SAMPLE

WH (bits)

Above: A vintage Lucite coffee table from Assemblage joins a zebra stool designed by Abbott in the living room. Below: Jouer products and personal photos in Zilber’s dressing room.

C 116 SEPTEMBER 2015

It was in the flats of Beverly Hills—the sweeping, palm tree-lined streets that stretch from Santa Monica Boulevard all the way up to Sunset—that Christina Zilber, founder of L.A.-based cosmetics company Jouer, fell in love at first sight. The object of her affection: a traditional redbrick and white-clapboard home built by famed architect Paul Williams in 1920, complete with a dramatic backstory—the residence was damaged in a fire in the 1970s, but miraculously retained its grand staircase and graceful proportions. To hear Zilber tell it, daily life here has an idyllic ’50s sitcom tonality: “We ride our bikes to Lemonade, have lots of outdoor parties and my neighbor is my best friend—we call each other Lucy and Ethel!” She shares the home with her teenage children, Emmanuel and Amélie. “We’ve lived here for 15 years,” she adds, explaining that she likes to redo a room annually, with her original designer, Jennie Abbott. “Things evolve,

Below: In the living room, works by William Klein and Jeanloup Sieff mingle with a Scala Luxury console and 19th-century ginger jars.


Serena + Lily

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WHAT’S HOT At Home Left: A Lillian Bassman photo overlooks the living room, with its Carrara-marble fireplace, 18thcentury bronze sconces from John Nelson Antiques, Bruno Giorgi figural sculptures, and custom seating and pillows by Abbott, incorporating Beacon Hill Fabrics and Pacific Hide leathers. Below: The dining room table base was sculpted by New York artist Silas Seandel, the vintage rock-crystal chandelier is from Ferro and a Henri Cartier-Bresson photograph hangs on the wall.

we change, and the house should, too. I feel like it’s finally starting to reflect who I am.” Zilber, who grew up in San Francisco, opted for a soft palette and feminine aesthetic punctuated by metallic touches, family antiques, works by Chagall and Picasso, and a black-andwhite photography collection that nods to her earlier career as a model and actress. “I loved being in the makeup chair most of all,” she recalls. “It was magic—they taught me tricks!” It was during that time that Zilber had the idea to develop a product line that not only melded skin care and beauty, but also came packaged in fun, snap-together cases that enable women to connect-and-carry customizable compacts. “I just talked about it and finally it landed on someone’s ears,” she says. After several meetings in her carriage house-turned-cabana, Jouer (“to play” in French—Zilber is an unabashed Francophile) launched in 2004. New this season is Le Matchbox, a quarterly subscription box loaded with face and eye palettes and a liquid liner. Irrespective of the time of year, Zilber’s focus for Jouer is always on the fresh and natural. “Christina loves her homes to be drenched in sunlight, inviting and comfortable,” says Abbott, who has also designed Zilber’s digs in Malibu and Paris, as well as the Jouer headquarters— not wholly unlike her personal address:

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“It’s like working in a beautiful residence,” Abbott comments. And while Zilber logs endless hours there, she admits, “My [real] office is my bed. Don’t we all do that with our laptops?” Her expansive master suite, illuminated by three large French doors that offer treetop views, makes for a tranquil environment conducive to the task. Over the years, Zilber has evolved the 7,000-square-foot house into a livable showplace that is at once ladylike and functional—from the mirrored living room cabinet that hides yoga essentials, to the candy bowl filled with mini Jouer samples, to the landscaped backyard that hosts summer movie nights for the neighborhood. Like the products she creates, everything about it just clicks. jouercosmetics.com. • MAILE PINGEL

WH (bits)

Left: The sunlit cabana features a photograph by Lyndie Benson, a Jane Churchillupholstered sofa and cocktail tables from Mimi London. Below: A candy bowl filled with Jouer samples.


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C

NOW PROMOTION

MARCO BICEGO

MANDARIN ORIENTAL

Designed to honor the lunaria flower, this collection is notable for its lightweight “petals” of hand-engraved gold and luminous diamonds. The brand’s signature handengraving is made with the traditional bulino, an ancient tool devised for the art of hand-carving, which gives the gold a fine, brushed texture. The finish is what sets Marco Bicego apart and truly makes each piece unique. Marco Bicego is sold at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s and your nearest fine jeweler.

As the only Las Vegas hotel with Triple Five Stars, Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas invites you to experience unparalleled service and amenities. Soaring 47 stories, our magnificent urban resort is located at the heart of the Las Vegas Strip. For reservations, call us at 888-881-9578 or visit mandarinoriental.com/lasvegas/.

THE SHOPS AT CRYSTALS

TADASHI SHOJI

The Shops at Crystals is an exquisite 500,000-squarefoot luxury shopping experience on the Las Vegas Strip. Crystals houses the largest Louis Vuitton in North America as well as the flagships for Prada, Gucci, Tiffany & Co. and Ermenegildo Zegna. Additionally, Crystals features 25 unique-to-Vegas brands including Tom Ford, Céline and Dolce & Gabbana and oversized shops for Hermès, Dior, Cartier and Fendi, to name a few. Visit theshopsatcrystals.com.

Tadashi Shoji is thrilled to launch his first Kids’ collection. Following in the footsteps of the ready-to-wear line, the mini-me styles will embody Tadashi’s best-selling, playful designs—combining signature fabrics such as lace, stretch crepe and embroidered tulle in colorful hues. Each piece fuses fashion with function, designed with the Tadashi girl, who is stylish, playful and free-spirited, in mind. Available at Tadashi Shoji retail boutiques including South Coast Plaza at 3333 Bristol St. in Costa Mesa, select specialty stores and on tadashishoji.com.

C Now


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REPORTS From the SOCIAL Front

Sizing up CALIFORNIA’S glamorous SCENE one BASH at a time

Cointreau MALIBU

World-class artist John Baldessari was honored at The Museum of Contemporary Art’s 36th annual gala presented by Louis Vuitton at The Geffen Contemporary. More than 700 guests including artists Catherine Opie and Ed Ruscha enjoyed a performance by singer Janelle Monáe and viewed MOCA’s latest exhibition, “William Pope. L: Trinket.”

Interior designer Nathan Turner and Guest of a Guest’s Rachelle Hruska MacPherson held an intimate beachside dinner at sunset along with Cointreau at a private residence in Malibu.

Philippe Vergne, John Baldessari Britt Robertson

Janelle Monáe

Reports Lisa Love, China Chow, Alex Israel

Catherine Opie and Julie Burleigh Joy Venturi Bianchi

Kelly Sawyer Patricof, Nathan Turner, Elizabeth Gesas

Dax Miller and Alexandra Von Furstenberg Rachelle Hruska MacPherson

Rosanna Arquette, Marisa Tomei, Patricia Arquette

HALL Wines + Brunello Cucinelli

Kendall Conrad, Jessica de Ruiter

Every MOTHER Counts Liberty Ross

Angela Lindvall, Christy Turlington Burns

Malin Akerman, Elizabeth Berkley

Christy Turlington Burns teamed up with Jessica Capshaw and Coach to host the first L.A. luncheon for Burns’ maternal health-focused nonprofit Every Mother Counts. The fundraiser, held at Michael’s in Santa Monica, raised awareness for pregnancy and childbirth safety and featured a special performance from L.A. indie folk singer Jade Castrinos.

Kathryn and Craig Hall

Neiman Marcus and Hall Wines co-hosted a Festival del Sole luncheon in honor of Ann Getty at Kathryn and Craig Hall’s Rutherford estate, which included an outdoor runway show of Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere-centric Fall 2015 collection.

Ann and Gordon Getty

C 124 SEPTEMBER 2015 O.J. and Gary Shansby

MOCA: DONATO SARDELLA. COINTREAU: OWEN KOLASINSKI. EVERY MOTHER: DONATO SARDELLA. HALL: DREW ALTIZER

MOCA Gala


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Fall-Winter 2015

Giuseppe Zanotti


THE SCENE

OSCAR DE LA RENTA + Saks Fifth Avenue The shores of Lake Tahoe saw the return of the annual Oscar de la Renta runway show, this year welcoming the house’s new creative director, Peter Copping. The event, presented along with Saks Fifth Avenue, benefits The League to Save Lake Tahoe and paid homage to the late de la Renta, who showcased his collections at the lake for 19 years.

Tallulah Willis, Demi Moore, Gwen Stefani, Jen Stefani, Maria Shriver

Eric Buterbaugh, Naomi Campbell, Jussie Smollett

ERIC BUTERBAUGH Flower Design Peter Copping Marissa Mayer

Katie Traina Tobey Maguire and Jennifer Meyer Maguire

Reports

Andy Griffith and Rose Apodaca

Esther Kim Varet and Joseph Varet

Stephanie Marver, Virginia Barlage

Kimberli Meyer

MAK Games

Dashiell Manley

Thao Nguyen, Andreas Krainer

C 126 SEPTEMBER 2015

The MAK Center for Art and Architecture presented its third annual MAK Games along with Vanity Fair at the acclaimed Lautner-designed SheatsGoldstein residence. The tennis tournament also included a benefit auction for modern art and architectural landmarks.

Eliza Bolen

Barbara Brown

BUTERBAUGH: SOURCELIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY. OSCAR DE LA RENTA: DREW ALTIZER. MAK GAMES: COURTESY OF MAK CENTER BY MIMI TELLER

Florist extraordinaire Eric Buterbaugh hosted a bouquet-filled launch party celebrating the opening of his new midcentury modern boutique in West Hollywood and inaugural crystal-bottled fragrance collection with a bevy of loyal famous fans and friends, including Gwen Stefani, Mario Testino and Naomi Campbell.


Stephen Webster

Two Rodeo 202 N Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills (310) 246-9500 stephenwebster.com


THE SCENE

Sandra Bullock

Naomi Watts, Nicole Kidman

Jenna Dewan-Tatum

Kate Mara, Nicola Maramotti Jessica Szohr

Rebecca Dayan

Women in Film Crystal + Lucy Awards

A slew of Hollywood’s bold-faced names gathered to celebrate extraordinary talent at the Women in Film 2015 Crystal + Lucy Awards, partnering with Max Mara for the 13th year. The previous evening Max Mara hosted a private party at Chateau Marmont toasting Kate Mara as the new Face of the Future.

Sabrina Baldieri

Reports Mary Beth Shimmon

Charlot Malin

Sister duo Erin and Sara Foster joined Amazon Prime to present an Endless Summer-themed soiree at The Sunset Tower Hotel, attracting attendees from Orlando Bloom to Courteney Cox.

Dede Wilsey

Marisa Tomei

Erin Foster, Kris Jenner, Sara Foster, Kendall Jenner Freida Pinto

Stephanie Danan and Justin Kern

Natalia Bonifacci

Nina Clemente

Zero & MARIA Cornejo

Maria Cornejo, Irene Neuwirth

C 128 SEPTEMBER 2015

Marking the fifth anniversary of her Melrose Place boutique, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Chilean fashion designer Maria Cornejo held a South Americaninspired cocktail reception for guests including George Kotsiopoulos and Irene Neuwirth.

Caption TK Sabina Gadecki

MAX MARA CHATEAU: COURTESY OF MAX MARA. WOMEN IN FILM: GETTY IMAGES FOR WOMEN IN FILM, LA, MAX MARA, BMW, AND TIFFANY & CO. OPERA BALL: DREW ALTIZER. AMAZON PRIME: RACHEL MURRAY/GETTY IMAGES FOR AMAZON. ZERO AND MARIA: DONATO SARDELLA

Amazon PRIME

Opera BALL

In honor of San Francisco opera patrons, jeweler de Grisogono held a Champagne-filled fete at the residence of Dede Wilsey in Pacific Heights for the Benefactors of the Opera Ball. Wilsey’s extensive art collection provided an impressive backdrop for the event.

Angie Harmon


www.brunellocucinelli.com 877 3308100

Nature does nothing in vain — ARISTOTLE —

Brunello Cucinelli

Two Rodeo Drive

South Coast Plaza

San Francisco

Las Vegas


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C Trunk Show PROMOTION

FALL FORWA R D IN ST Y LE

LONGCHAMP

Le Pliage HĂŠritage Tricolore cross-body in ecru/black/natural, $650. South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-436-1963; 114 Grant Ave., San Francisco, 415-360-7971.

DOLCE & GABBANA

Embroidered Sicily handbag with snakeskin cross-body strap and handle, $2,975. Beverly Center, 310-360-7282; Beverly Hills, 310-888-8701; South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-668-9142.

STUART WEITZMAN

The Alllegs boots in noir ultrastretch, $798. 437 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-860-9600; South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-432-8100.

C Trunk Show

TOMMY HILFIGER

Colorblock cape, $169. 157 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310-247-1475; tommy.com.

M MISSONI

Floral jacquard dress, $995. South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-641-3170; m-missoni.com.

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA JIMMY CHOO Lockett/XB bag, $1,995. 240 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-860-9045; 164 Geary St., San Francisco, 415-391-3300.

Tapered heels, $1,395. 474 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-276-1111; South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 657-232-4622.


Jo Malone


Jo Malone


Velvet

LOS ANGELES / ABBOT KINNEY / BRENTWOOD

NEW YORK /

V E LV E T- T E E S . C O M

M A D I S O N AV E N U E / S O U T H A M P T O N


Alexis Bittar


Fashion (opener)

COURTESY OF RODARTE

RODARTE runway looks throughout the past 10 years.

Design of a Decade Edited by HEATHER SEVERS

Lifelong Angelenos Kate and Laura Mulleavy could never be accused of complacency. As the masterminds behind Rodarte, the designers are constantly exploring novel themes for their must-see runway collections as well as mediums (they’ve designed costumes for the Los Angeles Philharmonic and been the subject of museum exhibitions). Given the

brand’s prevalence in discerning circles, it’s somewhat shocking that their first runway presentation was just 10 years ago to the month. There’s no sign of losing momentum—next up: their film directorial debut, Woodshock, a closely guarded project based on their own screenplay and starring friend and muse Kirsten Dunst. rodarte.net. • KATHRYN ROMEYN

SEPTEMBER 2015 C 137


FASHION

RUNWAY Report

ALTUZARRA

Our six FAVORITE trends of the season—from girlie COCKTAIL dresses to moody, TEXTURED CLOAKS DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

TADASHI SHOJI

STELLA McCARTNEY

Fashion (turn) VALENTINO

Blanc Slate

Pare down your palette via clean and crisp silhouettes

DOLCE & GABBANA

True Romance

VERA WANG

C 138 SEPTEMBER 2015

Embrace femininity with elaborate layers of embroidered lace


© SHERYO - HAAS & HAHN

Longchamp

SO UTH CO AST P L A Z A - L E V E L 2 - 7 1 4 . 4 3 6 . 1 9 6 3


FASHION Runway SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

SONIA RYKIEL

In the Navy

CHANEL

Join the ranks in buttoned nautical blue and stripes

Fashion (bits)

ISABEL MARANT

MARY KATRANTZOU

Dolled Up

MICHAEL KORS

Pastels, pearls and prints conspire for a twist on Lolita

PRADA

C 140 SEPTEMBER 2015


David Webb

Boldly Created. Boldly Worn. A sia Chow

DavidWebb.com 844-811-Webb


FASHION Runway

MIU MIU

RALPH LAUREN

BURBERRY PRORSUM

CHANEL

DELPOZO

Caped Crusaders

Enveloping outerwear provides a dramatic statement

Fashion (bits) The New Old-Fashioned Add layered depth with brocade and upholstery-inspired fabrics

BOTTEGA VENETA

GUCCI

TOMMY HILFIGER

C 142 SEPTEMBER 2015


Charlotte Olympia

S O U T H COA ST P L A Z A | 6 5 7 2 3 2 4 6 2 2 | W W W. CH A R L OT T E O LY M P I A . CO M


FASHION Jewelry Box 3. 2.

1.

9.

Fashion (bits)

1. CARTIER Paris Nouvelle Vague ring, $23,700, Cartier, B.H. 2. JEMMA WYNNE Prive Ear Climbers, $2,940, Single Stone, San Marino 3. NIKOS KOULIS Spectrum earrings, $33,040, Neiman Marcus, B.H. 4. HOLLY DYMENT FINE JEWELRY Cluster ring, $4,335, Just One Eye, L.A. 5. MARCO BICEGO Africa ring, $1,300, Neiman Marcus, B.H. 6. PEARL COLLECTIVE Center Spiked studs, $450, pearlcollective.com. 7. TIFFANY & CO. Art of the Sea ring, price upon request, Tiffany & Co., B.H. 8. MIZUKI freshwater pearl ring, $480, stoneandstrand.com. 9. STEPHEN WEBSTER Verne Bonafide earrings, $595, Stephen Webster, B.H.

8.

PEARL Jam

4.

For LADIES who lunch—or for those who rock to their own beat— the most CLASSIC jewels get a MODERN TWIST 5.

7. 6.

C 144 SEPTEMBER 2015

COURTESY OF DOLCE & GABBANA. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, P.253

DOLCE & GABBANA red leather jeweled headphones, $8,895, dolcegabbana.it.


Vhernier


FASHION Up Close Clockwise from top: Hollywood Exclusive envelope bag, $2,100. Original SALVATORE FERRAGAMO shoes, designed in 1938. Salvatore Ferragamo with custom lasts for his celebrity clients, 1955.

A look from the Fall 2015 runway.

High DRAMA

Since Salvatore FERRAGAMO opened his first shop, the brand has been dressing HOLLYWOOD’S elite. Today, a stunning, newly DESIGNED Rodeo Drive boutique awaits “My father loved to tell me his story about the famous diva Jean Harlow on the evening of the premiere of Hell’s Angels [1930],” recalls Salvatore Ferragamo’s daughter Fulvia Visconti. As the lore goes, Harlow had ordered a pair of lavender evening slippers for the occasion, but hours prior to the event a mishap with Ferragamo’s assistant and a bottle of stain resulted in Cinderella’s slippers being damaged. “My father painted [new] heels with glue and applied diamond dust. He went to Harlow’s apartment, where he made the error of showing her the ruined shoes first—and she threw them out the window, raging. At last, he managed to calm her down and show her the substitutes. She said, ‘Why the hell didn’t you show me these first?’ ” It was, recalls Visconti, “a lesson in psychology he never forgot.” Ferragamo has been synonymous with red-carpet style from the brand’s inception: beginning with his early Santa Barbara store, and then his famed Hollywood Boot Shop, open from 1923 to 1927. This month, the brand opens the doors to a gleaming redesigned Rodeo Drive boutique. Finished in silver travertine, Etruscan rose marble and Louvre limestone, the new flagship features an

Art Deco flair beloved by Ferragamo. Expect to find gems from the 2015 Fall/Winter collection, which, according to Creative Director Massimiliano Giornetti, “tells the story of today’s ingenue and her approach to evening,” in the form of long, silk slip dresses in futuristic patterns and archival patchwork motifs— not to mention custom calfskin leather gold-and-black accessories, exclusive to the Rodeo Drive outpost. And in preparation for any dramatic moments, frosted-glass and metal gates close off the ready-to-wear sections for a discreet shopping option catering to modern starlets. 357 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-273-9990; ferragamo.com. • MOLLY CREEDEN

Fashion (bits)

C 146 SEPTEMBER 2015

The new facade of the Rodeo Drive boutique.

COURTESY OF FERRAGAMO

From above: Ferragamo fits Sophia Loren, 1955. Hollywood Exclusive shoes, $1,290.


Stanford Shopping Center


FASHION Clutch Moves Fendi’s Peekaboo bag has spawned a sequel: a new clutch, replete with the beloved style’s easy-access turnlock and side-button closures, and sheathed in options including fuzzy shearling and dynamic diagonal stripes rendered in leather and calf hair. 355 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-276-8888; fendi.com.

FENDI Peekaboo clutch in calf hair (right), $4,150, and leather clutch (below), $2,950.

GUCCI Dionysus GG canvas bag, $3,400.

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA Cheer Leader sandals, $1,095.

COSTA MESA

Hip, Hip, HURRAY

British designer Charlotte Olympia Dellal’s trademark flair is in full effect with her latest capsule collection, Around the World, comprising playful T-barred pairs that pay tribute to the brand’s store locales—from the Beverly Hills champagne-hued Mae West peeptoes to the crimson London-inspired Queen’s Guard embroidered sandals. 3333 Bristol St., Ste. 1225, C.M., 657-232-4622; charlotteolympia.com.

Fashion (bits) EQUIHUA Boca del Cielo shirt, $895, and Capote de Matador skirt, $1,710.

BEVERLY HILLS

Natural Abundance

DAVID WEBB Buckle Ring, $6,800.

After three years on Brighton Way, David Webb is relocating back to the Beverly Wilshire Hotel, just in time for the launch of the NYC-based jeweler’s new Woodworks collection. Expect a retro-glam assortment of ebony and bloodwood-infused signature gold Shoelace cuffs, bangles, Buckle rings and earrings that effortlessly complement the throwback looks of the season. 9500 Wilshire Blvd., B.H., 310-858-8006; davidwebb.com.

C 148 SEPTEMBER 2015

The new man of mystery at the helm of Gucci, Creative Director Alessandro Michele, is already making an impression: stamping his debut Dionysus bag with naturalistic-themed hand embroidery rendered over the brand’s iconic double-G trellis pattern. 347 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-278-3451; gucci.com.

LOS FELIZ

Eastside Story Tetris motifs, melted Crayola stripes and digital flowers commingle with sumptuous materials and unconventional silhouettes to exhilarating effect in the world of Equihua, the debut luxury ready-towear label from Los Feliz-based Brenda Equihua. The 29-year-old cut her teeth designing for Angelenos Monique Lhuillier, Tadashi Shoji and Juan Carlos Obando, though her first fashion role model was her mother, whose head-turning, sequined trumpet gown worn to her daughter’s fifth birthday shindig set Equihua on the path to design. equihua.us.

WRITTEN BY MELISSA GOLDSTEIN, LINDSAY KINDELON AND KATHRYN ROMEYN. FENDI: COURTESY OF FENDI. EQUIHUA: ROBERT ROMERO

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FASHION STUART WEITZMAN Pavé Nudist chevron heels, $2,895. TOD’S runway look and Wave mini bag, $1,995.

Making WAVES

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN Diva sandals, $1,735.

Out of This World

Fashion (bits)

“For the Diva sandal, I was inspired by Luc Besson’s movie The Fifth Element.. The gold embellishment reminds me of an outer-space element while keeping a feminine touch. The silhouette enhances the foot for a dramatic statement,” says Giuseppe Zanotti of his highly anticipated fall sandal. 9536 Brighton Way, B.H., 310-550-5760; giuseppezanottidesign.com.

BASSIKE Linen kimono, $850.

VENICE

WRAP Artists Australian men’s and women’s apparel brand Bassike brings its structured separates— from oversized linen kimonos to yarn-dyed Japanese cotton chambray shirts—to Venice this month with its first international store. For founders Deborah Sams and Mary Lou Ryan, the line is a natural fit with the environs: “It felt like the best place to start,” says Sams. “There are synergies due to the beach culture.” The pair tapped Brook&Lyn for the interiors, which feature locally made custom decor in Calacatta marble and oversized white oak fitting rooms. 1918 Lincoln Blvd., Venice; bassike.com.

C 150 SEPTEMBER 2015

Pattern Play Stuart Weitzman’s skinbaring Nudist sandal puts a sparkle in your step thanks to the brand’s new limitededition, pavé-encrusted styles. The thin-strapped, sky-high, red-carpet heavyweight is available in motifs spanning polka dots to metallic python, serving up a perfect pairing of minimalistmeets-flash. $2,265-$2,895; stuartweitzman.com.

GILTY PLEASURES Buccellati Buccellati’s Opera Collection is a lesson in Italian art history: Ornate floral rings, bracelets, earrings and chokers pay homage to architectural elements from Roman church domes to 18th-century Milanese opera houses. 9517 Wilshire Blvd., B.H., 310-276-7022; buccellati.com. BUCCELLATI Opera diamond and gold ring, $3,100.

WRITTEN BY MELISSA GOLDSTEIN, LINDSAY KINDELON AND HEATHER SEVERS. TOD’S: COURTESY OF TOD’S. BASSIKE: BEAU GREALY

The iconic Mocassino Driver shoe from Tod’s has a new sidekick. Designed with the same elements that defined the moccasin as an instant classic— the finest leathers and skins, sporty aesthetic and pebbled detail—the Wave bag is destined to follow suit. Available in four different sizes, from a clutch to large tote. 333 Bristol St., C.M., 714-556-0239; tods.com.


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FASHION Marble flooring in the Geary Street store.

SAN FRANCISCO

Sharp EDGE Northern California fans of Saint Laurent’s L.A.-based Creative Director Hedi Slimane will marvel at the newly expanded San Francisco space, which includes a combined men and women’s boutique housing full collections and Art Deco-inspired design elements conceived by Slimane. 110 Geary St., S.F., 415-765-0975; ysl.com.

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

Rae Ann Herman, VP fashion director of accessories at Saks Fifth Avenue, selects her top four accessory trends for fall. 9600 Wilshire Blvd., B.H., 310-275-4211; saks.com.

STRÖM Song Couture dress, $968.

1.

Jimmy Choo’s Anneli boots—stretch nappa leather with crisscross detailing up the leg and peep-toed front—are the perfect accessory for chilly autumn nights. 240 Via Rodeo Dr., B.H., 310-860-9045; jimmychoo.com.

SCULPTURAL JEWELRY MAIYET Narrow Passage bracelet, $1,350.

Fashion (jbox) SWEDE Life LOS ANGELES

JIMMY CHOO Anneli boots, $2,395.

In the vast sea of L.A.-based denim brands, STRÖM stands out with its European cool-girl quality. Founder and Creative Director Erika Strömqvist, who hails from Sweden, worked with designers like Nicolas Ghesquière and Ann Demeulemeester before launching the line in 2013. Now STRÖM is introducing a collection of ready-to-wear featuring textured knits, leather jackets and relaxed silhouettes. “The STRÖM woman dresses for herself,” she says, “and no one else.” strombrand.com.

2.

UNSTRUCTURED BAG LOEWE Puzzle bag, $2,150.

3.

STATEMENT EARRING DELFINA DELETTREZ earring, $765.

BEVERLY HILLS

ONE & ONLY The new collection of rings from Beverly Hills designer Arun Bohra of Arunashi is breaking ground thanks to features like a 10-years-in-the-making patented flexible spring coil technology that allows rings to be worn multiple ways. Eighth-generation jewelers to the royal families of India, Arunashi’s one-of-a-kind designs are highly collectible works of art. By appointment, 310-888-0123.

C 152 SEPTEMBER 2015

ARUNASHI Mother of Pearl Ruby Spring ring, $68,800.

4.

EMBELLISHED SHOE MIU MIU glittered Mary Jane heels, $790.

WRITTEN BY HEATHER SEVERS. SAINT LAURENT: COURTESY OF SAINT LAURENT. STRÖM: JULIAN LE BALLISTER. HERMAN: ALEXANDER PATINO

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COURTESY OF HONEST BEAUTY

Beauty (opener)

“HONEST BEAUTY is a gamechanger,” says The Chalkboard’s Suzanne Hall of the new natural line launching this fall by Jessica Alba (right).

Secret Service We invited a few of California’s TOP beauty and lifestyle blogs to DIVULGE their PREFERRED formulas for the MOST fashionforward season of all

Edited by JENNY MURRAY

SEPTEMBER 2015 C 157


BEAUTY

The Chalkboard SUZANNE HALL

Beauty musts for your gym bag? Klorane’s dry shampoo, Onomie’s Bright Concealing Elixir and CV Skinlabs’ Rescue + Relief Spray. Originally designed for chemo patients, it’s like a nourishing water and perfect for protecting when you don’t want a rich layer on your skin—like after a good sweat. Tips for flawless autumn skin? Self-care at the change of seasons is crucial for optimal health. Juice cleanse or eat vegan for a few days when summer feels like it’s ending. You might just avoid the typical seasonal cold and flu, and you’ll see a glow in your complexion. Current workout of choice? Infrared sauna. Burn calories and detox while watching Netflix. Yes, it’s a real thing. Superfood having a moment? Fermented foods, from sauerkraut to coconut kefir. They’re great for digestion, which is key for clear, glowy skin. Secret for faking a good night’s sleep? Ginger juice shots. Pressed Juicery’s new Wellness Shot with ginger, cayenne and lemon is anti-inflammatory, boosting circulation and immunity. Preferred juice for fall? Green Mylk.

C 158 SEPTEMBER 2015

Clockwise from left: Suzanne Hall. The Santa Monica stairs. Chalkboard’s recent guest editor, Lily Aldridge.

Beauty (turn) From above: PRESSED JUICERY Wellness Shot, $2.50. Jade roller. CULTURED Organic Super Sauerkraut Salad, $8.

Green juices spiked with nut milk are rich in nutrition and taste; they’re so good you might be able to forgo the latte. The fats from the nuts help the body to better absorb all the nutrients. Who is your beauty muse this season? Our recent guest editor, Lily Aldridge. Her look is the perfect balance of carefree and cared-for. And Jessica Alba: Her new natural line, Honest Beauty [launching this fall], is going to be a game-changer. Beauty trick you just uncovered? The Chinese jade face roller for facial acupressure to depuff eyes and stimulate blood flow throughout your face and chest for a healthy flush. Also, aromatherapy at work: I have an amazing USB oil diffuser that plugs right into my laptop. I use it with a de-stressing essential oil. Less tension equals less wrinkles. Best place to get your fitness fix? The Santa Monica stairs. Climb, then run the gorgeous Palisades Park above or the beach below. It doesn’t get much better. thechalkboardmag.com. •

HALL: CORTNEE LOREN BROWN. SANTA MONICA STAIRS: KEELY WOLD AND SARAH LINK. ALDRIDGE: MICHAEL STEWART/CORBIS

Editorial Director


Vdara Hotel


BEAUTY

Byrdie FAITH XUE

Musts for your makeup bag this fall? Make Up For Ever’s new Ultra HD foundation—the new formula is more moisturizing and gives you airbrushed skin. W3LL People’s Bio Brightener Stick: Apply on cheekbones and anywhere the light hits your face for a “strobing” effect. Clarins’ Mission Perfection Serum: a beautifully packaged new product to get rid of dark spots and even out your skin tone. Garrett Markenson’s Reverie Nude shampoo and conditioner, a super-gentle, sulfate-free duo that maintains your summer color. Charlotte Tilbury’s Eyes to Mesmerize shadows: smoky eyes in a pot. Tip for flawless autumn skin? An overnight sleeping mask: I love Skin Inc.’s Pure Deepsea Hydrating Mask. Wellness drink of choice? I’ve been adding a bit of Moon Juice Beauty Dust powder to my morning coffee. It’s supposed to give your skin a glow, and help your nails grow, too. What product is most worth the splurge? Sisley’s Express Flower Gel mask is the equivalent of splashing cold water on my face, without the uncomfortable splashing part. I use it in the mornings when my skin is looking tired. It sinks in (tissue off any excess after three minutes) and preps my face

C 160 SEPTEMBER 2015

Clockwise from left: Faith Xue. REVERIE Nude shampoo, $38. CIEL SPA AT SLS, 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A. Below: MOON JUICE Beauty Dust Powder, $65.

Beauty (bits) From above: A look from ATELIER VERSACE’S fall 2015 collection. ORIBE Dry Texturizing Spray, $42. SISLEY PARIS Express Flower Gel, $140.

beautifully for makeup. What hairstyle are you loving now? The half-up topknot—chic and easy. And Oribe’s Dry Texturizing Spray makes the job easier. Top beauty look and inspiration from the fall runways? The “wood-nymph” at Atelier Versace. I love a pop of metallic, garden-tone eye shadows and a barely there lip. Also, I’m not ashamed to admit I have a soft spot for flower crowns. Who is your beauty muse this season? Zoë Kravitz has been killing it on every red carpet she graces. Her copper smoky eye with the dotted accent below each lid (created by makeup artist Nick Barose) at Cannes actually made my heartbeat quicken. That’s when you know you’ve got a budding beauty icon in the making! Beauty trick you just uncovered? Not necessarily a new trick, but I’ve stopped washing my face in the morning. Instead, I sweep a cotton pad with micellar water on it all over my face to freshen up my skin and remove any debris. It’s really changed my oily skin! Your tip for extending a summer glow? For your face, use an overnight sleeping mask with self-tanning capabilities—I like James Read’s. For body, try an inshower wash-off formula. Best place to get pampered in California? The Arcona Studio and the super-luxe spa at the SLS Hotel. Best place to get your fitness fix? I recently tried Pop Physique and almost died—in the best way possible, of course. byrdie.com. •

XUE: JENNA PEFFLEY. SLS: COURTESY OF THE SLS HOTEL BEVERLY HILLS

Managing Editor


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BEAUTY

Violet Grey CHRISTINA HAN Editorial Directo r

Musts for your makeup bag this fall? The only items that I switch up every season are my foundation and blush, which vary depending on my level of sun-kissedness. During the summer, I lived by La Prairie’s Cellular Radiance Cream Blush (a forever favorite for its creamy, highly blendable texture) in Peach Glow. For fall, it’s Plum Glow, which offers up the kind of flush achieved after a really good kiss. I wear berry-toned lip colors all year-round, but my love for this season is Kjaer Weis Lip Tint Compact in Goddess: The beeswax and jojoba seed oil formula keeps lips soft, while the pigment delivers a light lip-stain effect when patted on with your fingertips, or a high-impact finish when painted on with a lip brush. Tip for flawless autumn skin? My skin is dehydrated all year-round, so my routine is the same from January to December: Exfoliate two to three times a week with Joanna Vargas Skincare’s Exfoliating Mask, or once or twice a week with Sisley Paris’ Black Rose Cream Mask. What product is most worth the splurge? Spending $65 for a mascara seems insane, I know. But Serge Lutens’ Comb Mascara is the only one that will

C 162 SEPTEMBER 2015

Beauty (bits) Clockwise from top left: Christina Han. AFRICAN BOTANICS Marula Firming Botanical Body Oil, $70. Linda Evangelista. LA PRAIRIE Cellular Radiance Cream Blush, $70. DIOR Airflash Spray Foundation, $62.

not smudge in rain, sweat and tears, and lengthens and separate lashes in a swipe. What hairstyle are you loving now? Linda Evangelista’s ultrashort ’90s bob. Ashley Streicher created a version of it on me (without bangs) that also includes a slight fade on my neck. It’s so low-maintenance that it might just be my signature cut—for now. Top beauty look from the fall runways? I find myself tracking the red carpet more than the runway: This past awards season I fell in love with coral again thanks to makeup artist Rachel Goodwin’s inventive use of the hue on redheaded actress Emma Stone for the Oscars. Red hair, coral lips, chartreuse dress: genius. What new trick have you recently uncovered? To set makeup that needs to last (weddings to red carpets) with a light spray of Dior’s Airflash foundation. Your tip for extending a summer glow? Keep skin hydrated. African Botanics’ Marula Firming Botanical Body Oil absorbs deep into the epidermis. Best place to get pampered? My favorite L.A.-based facialist (Vanessa Hernandez Skin Care), nail salon (Olive & June) and spa (Tomoko Japanese Spa) are within a five-block radius from each other in Beverly Hills. violetgrey.com. •

HAN: ROBIN BLACK. TOMOKO: TESSA NEUSTADT. EVANGELISTA: MITCHELL GERBER/CORBIS

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Design (opener)

An assortment of worldly treasures in Gregory Parkinson’s studio includes a “grass raincoat” from India (far left) and woven Peruvian belts (right).

Mix Master Sartorial favorite turned home guru GREGORY PARKINSON introduces his vibrant next act Written and edited by ANDREA STANFORD Photography by NICOLE LaMOTTE

SEPTEMBER 2015 C 165


DESIGN

Clockwise from far left: Parkinson in his studio, which features an Adam Miller mask and Alan Davie lithograph. Insects from an Inca market in Peru hang next to a set of salad servers. A Ligne Roset sofa covered in GP Surround lace pillows. GP Surround pillows atop a stack of Peruvian and Tibetan rugs. A wood, jute and burlap wall hanging by Ella Krebs.

Ensconced in his Downtown L.A. loft, Gregory Parkinson is worlds away from the pressures of his former career. “I started in this business when I was 17, and spent so many years catering to the demands of fashion. I really wanted this next stage of my life to be free of that stress,” says the designer, who recently pivoted to the shelter realm with a line called GP Surround, following a 25-year career that included a CFDA finalist nod for his densely layered romantic silhouettes beloved by industry insiders. British-born Parkinson spent the past year as a modern nomad traveling between far-flung cities such as Santiago de Chuco, Peru, and Chandigarh, India. The experience not only allowed him to create a new visual vocabulary for a home line, but also to fall in love with textiles all over again: “I became enamored of how local artisans lived with their creations; the yarns and patterns are determined by geography, culture and history. Being immersed in this makes it impossible not to recognize the kindred spirit of their work.” In addition to studying traditional knitting, crochet and weaving skills in England, Parkinson began to gather the raw materials abroad that would be the foundation of his inaugural decor collection, which includes pillows, napkins, runners and throws. Similar to his fashion designs, it’s all about textile, color and layering with bold patterns

Design (turn)

C 166 SEPTEMBER 2015

elevated by exquisite embroidery and rich fabric overlays. The results resonate: Commune has already ordered exclusive napkin and runner sets; fellow designer Brigette Romanek had dibs on the first custom pillows even before the final trim was added. A self-described “reluctant shopkeeper,” Parkinson also uses his studio as a showcase for the imported product and curios that he continually gathers. These found treasures include a jute-and-burlap wall hanging by Ella Krebs, antique eggcups (belonging to famed archaeologist Thor Heyerdahl) from a small mountain town in Peru and double ikats from the Indian city of Hyderabad. “This new direction allows me to celebrate the craftsmen I’ve met and offers them a new livelihood,” he says. “Every piece comes with a story—the story of a craft handed down through centuries or a journey to an exotic destination.” gregoryparkinson.com. •


Earrings: 3.02ct and 3.05ct Yellow-Green Cushion Diamond Earrings set in platinum and 18 karat rose gold with two 0.91ct each cushion diamonds; six round pink diamonds and microset with 166 pink diamonds.

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DESIGN

WARMING Trend

Four lighting innovators ILLUMINATE the Golden State with NEW designs, from wrought-iron sconces that nod to CALIFORNIA architecture to wooden light boxes influenced by American artist DONALD JUDD

In 1962, lighting designer Robert Long opened the doors to his studio in Sausalito. Fifty years later, his son Robert set out to reimagine his handcrafted midcentury creations (with a few modern finishing touches). “The company was dormant, so to be able to bring it back to life has been the ultimate credit to his legacy,” says Long, who set up shop three years ago near Heath Ceramics. His newest fixture, the clean-lined, cast-brass Evergreen Sconce, fits seamlessly with his father’s original designs. 3 Gate 5 Rd., Ste. D, Sausalito, 415-729-9945; robertlonglighting.com.

John Wigmore “My interests were in combining the ideas of light and natural materials,” says Santa Monica-bred lighting artist John Wigmore of his entry into design. Having teamed with style mogul Ralph Pucci for a series of installations, Wigmore has constructed everything from a floorto-ceiling freestanding sculpture at the Beverly Hills United Talent Agency office to his latest, made-to-order New Wood Pieces: stacked light boxes that give a wink to minimalist artist Donald Judd. Ralph Pucci, PDC, 8687 Melrose Ave., W.H., 310-360-9707; ralphpucci.net.

Design (outside)

Brendan Ravenhill Shortly after moving to L.A. in 2010, industrial designer Brendan Ravenhill was commissioned by the owner of Italian eatery Osteria La Buca to outfit the entire restaurant—a promising West Coast debut, to say the least. The talent’s new light fixtures include butterfly-shaped chandeliers with globe lights, first created for the Rudolph Schindler-designed Bethlehem Baptist Church in L.A., and his Grain Family, which utilizes a technique that transfers wood grain from a mold onto shades of drum and pendant lamps. 2420 Forney St., L.A., 323-977-8532; brendanravenhill.com.

C 168 SEPTEMBER 2015

Above: DLG Lighting Co.’s Mediterraneaninspired De La Guerra Arm Mount, from $995. Below: The Owen’s Desk Lamp, $750, by Robert Long Lighting.

DLG Lighting Co. Launched by Santa Barbara-based real estate developer Jim Rickard and architect Britt Jewett, DLG Lighting Co. offers a line of handcrafted finishing touches in a range of sizes and materials, sans the hassle of going custom. “I saw that there was a void,” says Rickard. The 22 architectural wrought-iron designs, from a coastal-inspired “Shoreline” sconce to a scalloped “De La Guerra” pendant, come complete with downloadable CAD drawings and spec sheets. 805-770-7400; dlglighting.com. •

WRITTEN BY JENNIE NUNN. LONG: THOMAS KUOH. JOHN WIGMORE: VANESSA KOWALSKI. DLG: KIM REIERSON. RAVENHILL: MATT HUNT

Robert Long Lighting

Left: “The effect is so striking,” says Brendan Ravenhill of his Church 3 Arm pendant, from $3,100. Right: For his new pieces, John Wigmore was influenced by Japanese structures and the work of Donald Judd.


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DESIGN LOS ANGELES

In L.A.’s drive-by culture, landscape design requires a different approach, and Judy Kameon of Elysian Landscapes has mastered the getnoticed garden, from Balenciaga’s black beauty, emphasizing dark plantings, to the chromatic study that graces Isabel Marant’s Melrose Place outpost. In addition to the scale and graphic compositions, it is the contrast that is another of Kameon’s distinguishing signatures. “I love to use different shades of metal, like silver, bronze, iron and gold,” she says. “It brings richness and depth to a palette, whether it’s black gravel or shimmery foliage.” Still, it’s the wild card of nature that she loves most. “Landscape design is a play between man and nature, control and

Isabel Marant’s West Hollywood exterior garden.

chaos, which makes for incredibly dynamic environments.” elysianlandscapes.com. CANOGA PARK

MAKERS’ Mark

SILVIA SONG nested maple bowls, from $149, and dovetail butcher blocks, from $340, available at March.

To inaugurate the opening of Westfield Topanga’s new outdoor shopping experience, The Village, L.A. designer Nathan Turner will stage a flash shop: Through December, Nathan Turner’s American Style will highlight the best of American craft, from local potters and surf shapers to macramé artists and blanket weavers. He’ll also host in-store dinner parties featuring brands like Hedley & Bennett and Farmhouse Pottery. thevillage.westfield.com.

Design (bits)

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES

Shear Pleasure

BAY AREA

Against the Grain Less than two years ago, former architect Silvia Song started her career as a wood potter and has since created nothing short of an uproar. Using sustainably harvested woods like sugar maple, Song has collaborated with dyer Kristine Vejar on hand-turned bowls for S.F. kitchenware store March and vessel forms for Heath Ceramics. When she isn’t teaching her sold-out woodworking clinics, she also works on custom projects, including pieces created to commemorate fallen trees. Currently she is preparing for a group show in Tokyo. silviasong.com.

C 170 SEPTEMBER 2015

MATSON + PALMER Custom blankets, from $3,600.

It’s not easy to stand out in the crowded world of cashmere, but Christy Matson and Jane Palmer, the duo behind Matson + Palmer, have done just that with their debut collection of intricately woven, double-layered blankets. The pieces are created entirely by hand, with Palmer treating each skein in natural colorways and Matson creating magic on a Jacquard loom custom-made in Norway. Inspired by “the sun-bleached quality of the landscape and exuberant color palette that thrives in California,” Matson says they will introduce alpaca rugs and pillows topped with their signature woven cashmere next. noonbyjanepalmer.com.

ELYSIAN LANDSCAPES: ISABEL MARANT, MONTALBA ARCHITECTS AND FRANKLIN AZZI ARCHITECTS PHOTO BY ERIK OTSEA. TURNER: OBERTO GILI. SONG: SILVIA SONG. MATSON + PALMER: JULIA STOTZ

Great Outdoors


Simon Outlets


Country Mart


Local ingredients star in a menu by SWEET LAUREL BAKERY, including dandelion tart with a cassava root crust.

KIMBERLY GENEVIEVE

Menu (opener)

The Naturalists Written and edited by

LESLEY McKENZIE

Drawn together by a mutual love for their hometown of Los Angeles, lifestyle blogger Shiva Rose and Sweet Laurel Bakery co-founders Claire Thomas and Laurel Gallucci gathered an intimate group for an alfresco summer luncheon to celebrate, in Rose’s words, “all that is native to this land.” Held under the boughs of a 200-year-old oak tree in Rose’s Pacific Palisades garden, the affair embraced Californian artisanship

and locally grown ingredients and plants. Textile maven Rachel Craven bedecked the table with her handmade linens, LUX / EROS ceramicist Desanka Fasiska crafted the place settings and florist Yasmine Mei of Yasmine Floral Design arranged seasonal blooms to complement the three-course meal, from the wild fennel and sorrel salad to the hazelnut-milk ice cream finale. For recipes, visit thelocalrose.com. •

SEPTEMBER 2015 C 173


MENU VENICE

Gold Standard Bravo’s Top Chef and Esquire’s Knife Fight alum Nyesha Arrington has traded in her competitor’s hat for a new culinary venture as the debut executive chef of Leona in Venice. Husband-andwife restaurateurs Breegan and Kristian Vallas opened the doors to Leona this summer, staking their claim on modern California-inspired cuisine close to the beach. The trio has conceived of a cheery space paired with responsibly sourced, innovative fare. Pull up a seat at the chef’s counter, around a communal table or on the outdoor patio, and savor Arrington’s tasty versions of classics like bacon and eggs, prepared with a soft-cooked farm egg and wrapped in thinly sliced potato atop a smoky bacon broth. 123 Washington Blvd., Venice, 310-822-5379; leonavenice.com.

Clockwise from top left: Fire-roasted tomatoes with burrata. Chef Nyesha Arrington of LEONA. Farm cheese and wild seed crackers with market cress.

Menu (turn)

NAPA VALLEY

When Michael Polenske’s Blackbird Vineyards first arrived on the scene in 2005, the Napa Valley wine producer left an indelible impression with a 2003 Merlot inspired by the wines of Pomerol in France—a refreshing addition to NorCal’s Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated terroir. To mark its 10th anniversary, the Oak Knoll District vintners continue their tradition of forward-thinking offerings with their first white varietal crafted by winemaker Aaron Pott. The 2014 Blackbird Vineyards Dissonance is a dry, refreshing pour in the same vein of the white wines of Bordeaux, rounding out the brand’s current portfolio of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon signature blends. 1330 Oak Knoll Ave., Napa, 707-2524444; blackbirdvineyards.com.

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SAN FRANCISCO

Water Works

From top: BLACKBIRD VINEYARDS’ Oak Knoll House, available for invitation-only tastings. 2014 Blackbird Vineyards Dissonance, $32.

There’s plenty to Tweet about when it comes to San Francisco’s cocktail-fueled newcomer, Dirty Water. Located on the lobby floor of Twitter’s high-profile headquarters, this sleek new restaurant, bar and lounge is home to more than 100 wines by the glass, and aptly named cocktails that pay homage to the spot’s Bay Area roots, from the vodka-based 140 Characters to The Long Strange Trip, complete with candy-capped mushroominfused 1776 Rye. 1355 Market St., Ste. 180, S.F., 415-792-5101; dirtywatersf.com.

WRITTEN BY LESLEY M C KENZIE AND DANIELLE D I MEGLIO. LEONA: COURTESY OF LEONA. BLACKBIRD: MACKENZIE REILLY. DIRTY WATER BAR: DISHERO

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MENU Left: A selection of VPN-certified pizzas. Right: The woodburning oven.

NAPA

Downtown Napa needs another pizza restaurant like it needs another tasting room. But with the opening of their first brick-and-mortar location, Ca’ Momi Osteria (sibling of Oxbow Public Market mainstay Ca’ Momi Enoteca), Italy-born owners Dario De Conti, Valentina Guolo-Migotto and Stefano Migotto are about to prove that both locals and tourists will be willing to make space. The restaurant’s mozzarella- and salsiccia-topped pies come to life in a showpiece wood-burning oven and are among an elite few to bear Verace Pizza Napoletana (VPN) certification—meaning the most discerning Neapolitan pizza artisans wholeheartedly approve. The rest of the menu follows suit with Italian “peasant fare” as authentic as the owners’ vowel-filled names. Think: toothsome pasta lapped in Ligurian pesto, tortellini in bone broth and a cutting board shrouded in a jewel-like mosaic of house-made salumi. It’s all served alongside dangerously drinkable wines that bear the Ca’ Momi Napa Valley label, spot-on negronis and espressos, and a retail store where you can snatch some bare necessities on the way home—like a gorgeous bottle of Italian-made olive oil. 1141 First St., Napa, 707-257-4992; camomienoteca.com.

VENICE Clockwise from left: Fresh kale and ricotta ravioli. Pirri pirri and garlic-roasted chicken. Roasted heirloom tomato and roasted beet salads.

Star Power

Menu (bits) OAKLAND

FARE Play Doug Washington—the restaurateur behind S.F.’s Town Hall and Anchor & Hope, and the design mastermind responsible for Santa Barbara’s Lucky Penny and The Lark—introduces a new concept: Grand Fare Market, an indoor/ outdoor dining destination in Oakland. In partnership with his wife, artist Freya Prowe, and hospitality veteran Harper Matheson, Washington’s latest foray combines a handpicked selection of gourmet products and purveyors under one roof, including an oyster bar, Linea coffee, Humphry Slocombe ice cream, and an abundance of blooms at Prowe’s first retail spot, Brothers and Sisters. 3265 Grand Ave., Oakland, 510-899-9610; grandfaremarket.com.

C 176 SEPTEMBER 2015

Portland’s beloved Blue Star Donuts has migrated south, to Venice’s modish Abbot Kinney Boulevard. Look for classic flavors including blueberry bourbon basil and a hard apple cider fritter, not to mention offerings exclusive to the Los Angeles locale, such as olive oil and orange, and ganache grenache. Packed with fresh ingredients, each brioche-style creation takes 18 hours to craft, yet only seconds to devour. 1142 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; bluestardonuts.com.

WRITTEN BY LESLEY McKENZIE AND CAROLYN ALBURGER WARSHAM. CA’ MOMI OSTERIA: CA’ MOMI NAPA VALLEY. FARE MARKET: CLARA RICE PHOTOGRAPHY. BLUE STAR DONUTS: COURTESY OF BLUE STAR DONUTS

Eyes on the Pies


The Americana

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MENU

SANTA MONICA

Perfect Pairing When husband-and-wife restaurateurs Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan (Huckleberry, Rustic Canyon Winebar and Seasonal Kitchen, to name a few) dined at the now-shuttered The Spice Table in Downtown L.A. several years ago, they got more than the standout meal they had hoped for. “[Owners] Bryant and Kim [Ng] weren’t even there that night and it still had the same feeling of warmth and generosity,” explains Loeb. So when Loeb and Nathan landed on the ideal space for their latest endeavors in downtown Santa Monica, the pair approached the Ngs to join forces on a Southeast Asian restaurant concept. The result is Cassia, the Westside’s buzziest new brasserieinspired dining destination, which harnesses many of the beloved flavors chef and co-owner Bryant honed at The Spice Table (kaya toast, grilled pig’s tail) alongside his modern take on French staples. Nathan also lends her talents to the mix alongside co-pastry chef Laurel Almerinda on sweet finishes including a Vietnamese coffee pudding. Enjoy a nightcap at Esters, Loeb and Nathan’s new neighboring wine bar and shop venture, in partnership with Kathryn and Tug Coker. 1314 7th St., S.M., 310-3936699; cassiala.com.

C 178 SEPTEMBER 2015

Menu (bits) Above: A sampling of dishes, including fried cauliflower, kaya toast and laksa. Below: A blackberry sherry cobbler cocktail.

The C-List BENJAMIN BAILLY

Dishing with the top toque behind the stoves at hotel and restaurant hot spot Mama Shelter Los Angeles (6500 Selma Ave., L.A., 323785-6666; mamashelter.com). Go-to ingredient Definitively lemon—zest, juice or just a simple squeeze to finish a salad or a sauce. Top local brunch spot Mercado in Hollywood. They have great margaritas and chilaquiles and it’s also down the street from where I live. Coveted fall ingredient Pomegranate for the texture, color and acidity it can bring to a dish. Favorite farmers market Hollywood, because it’s a block down from Mama Shelter. We pick all the ingredients for our brunch and cocktails on Sunday morning right before we open. Currently craving My mum’s tiramisu. It’s the best ever (and I’ve tried a lot!).

WRITTEN BY LESLEY McKENZIE. CASSIA: RICK POON. BAILLY: MAMA SHELTER LOS ANGELES

From left: Inside CASSIA, which is housed in a 1930s Art Deco landmark building. Executive Chef and co-owner Bryant Ng.

MALIBU

HEIR Force

France’s Cointreau family has made its mark in the liquor world with Rémy Martin Champagne and cognac, as well as its namesake triple sec brand. Now heiress Béatrice Cointreau sets her sights on California wine with her Malibubased Admirable Family Vineyards. Three varietals debut this fall, including the fruit-forward 2013 Admirable Bord de l’Eau. bybcwines.com.

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Pelican Hill


One of the weekend’s many alfresco meals at IL PALAGIO.

ANGELA PHAM/BILLY FARRELL AGENCY

Travel (opener)

assia

om Mayne’s powerful buildings not only Artists Designer ROSETTA GETTY and friends convene in pact the Escape way we see the California yscape, but also how weto live in it food, FASHION and fine company in a DREAMY TUSCANY savor

ESTATE that could only exist in ITALY

Edited by JENNY MURRAY

SEPTEMBER 2015 C 181


Rosetta Getty is known for her chic, minimalist approach to fashion, so it should come as little surprise that the L.A.-based designer—who launched her eponymous ready-to-wear brand last year—knows a thing or two about elegant entertaining. “It’s a great feeling to bring people together and allow them to connect and relax,” says Getty, who, along with friend Fuschia Kate Sumner and fashion e-emporium Farfetch, recently treated her inner circle to a weekend at Il Palagio, a 16th-century countryside villa set in the heart of Tuscany. Owned by Sumner’s parents, Sting and Trudie Styler, the vast 900-acre estate features gorgeous Italian architecture and sprawling on-site vineyards. “Rosetta and her family spend every summer in Tuscany,” says Sumner. “My family, too, has been coming here ever since I can remember. When I heard that she wanted to celebrate her beautiful clothes in Italy, I knew Il Palagio would be the perfect place.” This year, Getty, her husband, Balthazar, and three of their children traveled to Positano and Capri before joining friends who flew in from London, Los Angeles, New York and Paris after attending couture. Patricia Arquette, Dree Hemingway and Rosamund Pike were among those

Travel (turn) Clockwise from top left: Candlelit dinner. Twilight on the terrace. Hanneli Mustaparta. Co-hosts Rosetta Getty and Fuschia Kate Sumner.

From above: Afternoon at the lake. Rosetta Getty, Patricia Arquette and Rosamund Pike.

C 182 SEPTEMBER 2015

who stayed at the villa, where classic Italian farm-to-table offerings awaited them. The lavish weekend kicked off with a candlelit dinner, held under a centenary tree in the courtyard, where olive oil and wine produced on the property were served. Dancing commenced when Balthazar hit the turntables—luckily, Pike had opted for a pair of sensible sneakers in lieu of heels. The following day, guests enjoyed a picnic lunch on the lake, a particularly picturesque moment since most wore gifted ensembles from Getty’s Resort 2016 collection, which swings from nautical-inspired striped knits to macramé dresses. “Il Palagio is a magical place; I long for it all year. Lunches under the tree, dreamy dinners in the courtyard, backgammon under the loggia, swimming in the lake—it’s idyllic,” says Sumner. Those suffering from FOMO, fear not: The property—which overlooks the Tuscan hills and features a lush oak forest, sparkling lakes, vineyards and olive groves—is available to rent with a threenight minimum. A-list company not included. rosettagetty.com; farfetch.com. For Il Palagio rates, contact Cynthia Brody, 212-246-2977 or ilpalagioevents@gmail.com; palagioproducts.com. • LINDZI SCHARF

ANGELA PHAM/BILLY FARRELL AGENCY

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TRAVEL

TOUCH down Tommy Hilfiger KICKS OFF a big anniversary in BEIJING Celebrating the grand opening of his largest flagship store in China and the 30th anniversary of his global brand, Tommy Hilfiger launched his 2015 fall fashion show in a bespoke football field in Beijing. Here, the designer shares his favorites from China’s capital city. Stay The Waldorf Astoria combines beautiful architecture with traditional touches, such as their hutong courtyards. waldorf astoria3.hilton.com. Dine With its creative cuisine and stunning terrace views overlooking Tiananmen Square, [modern European restaurant] Capital M was an unforgettable experience. m-restaurant group.com. See I’m an avid art collector, so I loved having the chance to explore the contemporary art scene in the 798 Art District—home to Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, as well as a number of amazing galleries. ucca.org.cn. Tour I’m in awe every time I visit the Great Wall of China; the scale and sense of history are indescribable. Tip The Hilfiger Collection is available in China for the first time in our new store in Beijing’s In88 Shopping Center. tommy.com. •

C 184 SEPTEMBER 2015

Travel (bits)

LONGCHAMP Fairval wheeled suitcase, from $440.

From above: Great Wall of China. Waldorf Astoria in Beijing. Ullens Center for Contemporary Art.

On a Roll Promising long-term durability, ultralight features and unique design, the latest from Parisian brand Longchamp includes cobalt Fairval trollies and a brandnew, Basel-worthy handbag and ready-to-wear collection, called Artwalk, inspired by the Memphis design movement. us.longchamp.com.

WRITTEN BY DANIELLE D I MEGLIO AND JENNY MURRAY. HILFIGER SHOW AND STORE: COURTESY OF TOMMY HILFIGER. GREAT WALL: SONGQUAN DENG. WALDORF ASTORIA: COURTESY OF WALDORF ASTORIA HOTELS AND RESORTS. ULLENS: IMAGINECHINA/CORBIS

Clockwise from left: Tommy Hilfiger and models at the show. Stadium seating. The new Tommy Hilfiger flagship in Beijing.


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RED ROOM: KEITH HARING FOUNDATION AND THE BROAD ART FOUNDATION. THE BROAD: IWAN BAAN

Culture (opener)

From above: Keith Haring’s Red Room, 1988, is included in the collection. The Diller Scofidio + Renfrodesigned building in all its glory.

Broad Strokes With the opening of their EPONYMOUS MUSEUM, philanthropists Eli and Edythe BROAD finally reveal the full SCOPE of their vast and ever-expanding contemporary art collection Written and edited by ELIZABETH KHURI CHANDLER SEPTEMBER 2015 C 187


CULTURE

When The Broad museum on Grand Avenue in Downtown Los Angeles opened for a one-day sneak peek in February, the public reaction was mixed. Some called the cool, cave-like interiors inspiring and different; others playfully likened the porous exterior to a cheese grater. To put it mildly, the Diller Scofidio + Renfro building provides a textural contrast to its neighbor, the gleaming, curvilinear Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall. Using a “veil and vault” motif, an interior carapace warehouses 2,000-some works from The Broad Art Foundation, as well as pieces from the family’s personal holdings. Three floors (with galleries on the first and third) surround the fortress, encased by a fiberglassreinforced concrete and steel veil that filters light and offers unusual peephole views of the neighboring buildings. The buzzed-about debut on Sept. 20 will mark a climactic resolution to the Homeric L.A. saga colloquially known

C 188 SEPTEMBER 2015

Clockwise from top: The 105-foot escalator takes visitors from the ground level to the third floor. Los Angeles-based Mark Bradford’s ruminations on the 1992 uprisings in the city inform this painting, Scorched Earth, 2006. The steel-and-fiberglass honeycomb interior of The Broad. The galleries’ column-less walls allow for largescale installations and increased natural light. Heyler expects that Robert Therrien’s popular sculpture Under the Table may be displayed here at some point.

as: “Where will the Broads’ art go?” Several years ago, the word on the street was that LACMA would be the recipient of the billionaires’ vast holdings of postwar, Pop and contemporary art. But Eli Broad, the super-collector and builder of two Fortune 500 companies (KB Home and SunAmerica), and his wife Edythe chose to go their own way— causing ripples within the city’s art scene. This new fully executed vision is independent, thanks to its own endowment; free to the public; and provides perhaps the final push toward making Grand Avenue a Lincoln Center of sorts. “The Broads have this wonderful Midwestern sensibility; they care about the city they live in, and want to share what they have with Los Angeles,” says collector and philanthropist Maria Bell. “They never considered [the collection] to be their own, it was always part of the framework of the place they live in.” “A lot has changed in the last decade

THE BROAD: HUFTON + CROW. SCORCHED EARTH: COURTESY OF THE BROAD ART FOUNDATION

Culture (turn)


From left: Visitors gaze at the veil from the third floor. Barbara Kruger’s Untitled (Your body is a battleground), 1989. Eli and Edythe Broad. Below: The Jeff Koons collection includes Balloon Dog (Blue), 1994-2000.

or so,” adds the museum’s founding director, Joanne Heyler, who has been in the Broads’ employ since 1989, serving as chief curator of The Broad Art Foundation since 1995. One of the reasons the family chose to start from scratch with their own venue, she explains, is their desire for their works to be seen in full by as many people as possible. Over the past 20 years, The Broad Foundation has made some 8,000 loans to more than 500 institutions. If the deep assemblage had been inserted into the context of a larger museum, the likelihood of the public seeing significant chunks of it would decrease. Although there have been previous displays of the Broad collection, the inaugural installation at the museum will be the largest sequential survey of the collection yet, and the 120,000-squarefoot building allows art lovers to get a true sense of all its themes, viewed chronologically. “I think people will be surprised by its breadth and depth,” says Eli. “And some of our newest acquisitions definitely fall into the category ‘shock of the new.’ ” Today the collection spans more than 200 artists, and continues to expand at an exponential pace. Recent acquisitions include a found aluminum and copper wire piece by Ghanaian sculptor El Anatsui, a hurly-burly photograph of whiterobed members of the Kuwaiti stock exchange from Andreas Gursky, and an abstract ink and acrylic on canvas work by young Ethiopian-American artist Julie

Mehretu. “What we love about collecting art is the adventure of discovering something new—something that’s never been done before. Art is never boring,” Eli says. Strong motifs emerge: “There’s this sort of social and political activist edge to much of the artwork,” Heyler says, using artist Mark Bradford as a recent example. “You’re not going to find a lot of postminimalist art or early conceptual artists. I think [in Eli Broad] you are seeing a person that enjoys a debate.” Big names such as Cy Twombly, Robert Rauschenberg and Jasper Johns; Pop artists Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, Ed Ruscha and Jeff Koons; neo-expressionists such as Jean-Michel Basquiat; and postwar German art are also present. Edythe’s collecting habit dates back to the 1960s, when she spent her free time wandering through the Ferus Gallery and

Culture (bits)

C 190 SEPTEMBER 2015

Continued on p.252

STANFORD

Acing the Arts Stanford University’s brandnew 96,000-square-foot McMurtry Building (also designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro) for the practice and study of the arts reflects the Farm’s full-on $233-million commitment to crossmedium fusion. A classroom by day turns into an indooroutdoor performance space at night, and thoughtful, innovative features—such as a “suspended glass box” library that maximizes natural light— invite creative collaboration. “[We’re] making a statement about the priority of the arts and architecture on campus,” says Matthew Tiews, associate dean for the advancement of the arts, of the university’s new initiative. stanford.edu.

BROAD: ELIZABETH DANIELS. UNTITLED (YOUR BODY IS A BATTLE GROUND): COURTESY OF THE BROAD ART FOUNDATION. BROADS: ELIZABETH DANIELS. BALLOON DOG: COURTESY OF THE BROAD ART FOUNDATION. McMURTRY: IWAN BAAN

CULTURE


Empty Vase


CULTURE MALIBU

COSTA MESA

Center Stage

It’s the stuff of modern legend: A Midwestern girl-next-door and valedictorian turned supermodel fascinates the lens with her killer physique, joie de vivre and smoldering beauty. In Becoming (Rizzoli, $50), Cindy Crawford marks her 50th birthday with a book that traces her path to the top and dishes on such collaborators as Richard Avedon and Irving Penn. She pulls no punches, admitting, “I can’t say that every moment of working for Irving Penn was a lot of fun. More important than fun, every moment in front of his lens was a lesson.” Crawford’s takes on female empowerment, nudity and motherhood are also revealing. She’s honest about the challenges of aging and says that “at times the pressure to live up to the industry’s expectation feels overwhelming.” In the end, she emerges as an earnest achiever: “I’d love to tell that hardworking girl with her nose buried in a book that it is OK to live it up a little bit.”

Culture (bits)

Russian national treasure the Mariinsky Ballet and Orchestra takes on Orange County for the eighth time with Raymonda, a classic of the ballet canon that until now has never been staged in Southern California. Choreographed in 1898 by Marius Petipa—the icon behind Swan Lake and The Nutcracker—Raymonda tells the story of a young Hungarian noblewoman who is caught in a love triangle with a crusader knight and a Saracen warrior. Sept. 24-27, Segerstrom Center for the Arts, 600 Town Center Dr., C.M., 714-556-2787; scfta.org.

Dancer Oxana Skorik in the Mariinsky’s Raymonda.

The designer

Jeremy’s Spoken Flush with celeb testimonials and plenty of fashionfashion-fashion, Jeremy Scott: The People’s Designer, Vlad Yudin’s documentary about design prankster Jeremy Scott, peels away the veil of mystery surrounding the rural Missouri native who has risen through the ranks to become creative director of Moschino. Sept. 18; jeremyscottmovie.com.

C 192 SEPTEMBER 2015

El Anatsui’s Uwa, 2012

SAN FRANCISCO

Fresh TAKE “Right now, with SFMOMA closed, there aren’t enough places to see serious modern things,” says gallery owner Claudia Altman-Siegel. Thus, “Standing and Hanging,” an exhibition of sculptural works, was born. In collaboration with Adrian Rosenfeld—who worked for the Matthew Marks Gallery for 15 years and opened its L.A. outpost—the show features an array of primary work from various time periods alongside young artists who play with the idea of how looking at things from above and below can change your perception. Sept. 17-Oct. 31; Altman Siegel, 49 Geary St., S.F., 415-576-9300; altmansiegel.com.

CRAWFORD: FROM RIGHT, PETER LINDBERGH, HERB RITTS/HERB RITTS FOUNDATION/TRUNK ARCHIVE, GILLES BENSIMON/TRUNK ARCHIVE. BECOMING: COURTESY OF RIZZOLI NEW YORK. RAYMONDA: VALENTIN BARANOVSKY. UWA: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK; ALTMAN SIEGEL, SAN FRANCISCO. SCOTT: GIAMPAOLO SGURA

The Whole Picture

Clockwise from left: Becoming, Rizzoli, $50. Cindy Crawford posing for Peter Lindbergh. A shot by Herb Ritts. A photograph by Gilles Bensimon for American Elle of Crawford with her son Presley.


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Photography by

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Kelly Lynch saddles up on a quarter horse named Curly, on loan from DeLaCour Ranch, a sustainable ranch in the foothills of the Eastern Sierras. She wears her own hat and caftan with MOTHER jeans, $196.

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XXXX Kelly Lynch

Lynch takes a seat on the hood of the coupleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1969 Pontiac GTO convertible. She wears her own denim shirt with MOTHER jeans, $196, and OLIVER PEOPLES sunglasses, $405.

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Accomplished screenwriter Mitch Glazer is reminiscent—thinking back to the first time he and his wife, actress Kelly Lynch, drove from L.A. to the remote Central California town of Lone Pine to see their Richard Neutra home. “I’m so East Coast that I heard Mojave Desert and almost fainted. We brought huge Sparkletts bottles of water because it just seemed like we weren’t going to survive

it—like the Donner Party or something,” he says, when an image of Lynch, posing Barbarella-like for photographer Dewey Nicks on a monumental outcropping of rocks outside of their residence, catches his eye and quite literally takes his breath away. “I mean, with the mountain range behind her—it’s, it’s just jaw-dropping,” he says. The man is clearly smitten: with Lynch, yes, but also with the stunning

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From top: Another angle on the midcentury marvel. The living room is furnished with an Eero Saarinen Grasshopper chair and Noguchi coffee table. Neutra’s stamp adorns the chairs that pair with the couple’s rare camel dining set. Lynch admires the view in her own Theory dress.

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Mother and daughter take a leap. Lynch wears her own top and matching wrap skirt. Shane wears a C 24 SEPTEMBER 2015 dress by ETRO, $3,586.


Shane scales a massive rock below a pair of boulders the family refers to as “The Feet” in an ULLA JOHNSON dress, $495.

“You can start to believe whatever HOLLYWOOD BS gets FED into your head, but you come here and it’s a RECALIBRATION.”

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prehistoric-looking panorama, 95-foothigh marbled boulders, looming Inyo Mountain peaks and all. The environs have been a source of inspiration for Glazer, who, when he’s not with Lynch and their 29-year-old daughter, Shane, has been known to hole up in their masterfully streamlined rectangular glass digs on his own to write. “Since I’ve been here, but particularly this year, it’s been crazy busy,” he says, noting upcoming projects including October’s dramedy Rock the Kasbah, starring Bill Murray and Zooey Deschanel; another Murray-fronted vehicle, a Netflix holiday special directed by Sofia Coppola titled A Very Murray Christmas; a screenplay based on the Elmore Leonard novel Bandits starring Bruce Willis that’s due to be filmed in March; and the film version of his Starz TV series Magic City (which he wrote and will direct), set to begin production next year. For Lynch, the influence of the home, in combination with the couple’s John Lautner residence in L.A., has translated literally: She is currently working on a pilot for a TV magazine show about architecture and design. “I don’t want good design to be something that’s only for a certain group,” she says. “It’s gotten so elitist: I want to show people how they can do it themselves.” Lynch and Glazer ended up here in 1992 thanks to real-estate legend Crosby Doe, who lured the New York City transplants to this cowboy town en route to Mammoth with the promise of a masterpiece. The scenic drive, initially a drawback, ended up doing half of the selling: “The trip up the 395 Highway is something that everybody should do—the same way that everybody should drive from one end of Sunset Boulevard to the other,” says Lynch. Adds Glazer: “I had this déjà vu connection, and then I realized it was from The Lone Ranger and Hopalong Cassidy, and all the movies and TV shows that had been filmed here. I knew the landscape: It felt fated.” A walk through the door sealed the deal. “It was obvious that it was a place that had a lot of love in it,” Lynch says. “The architecture is elegant, the proportions are perfect and geometric, but it’s humble.” Originally built in 1959 by the already world-famous Neutra for Richard Oyler,

a government employee, the unlikely commission—forged when Neutra came to visit the majestic site and couldn’t resist the epic setting—led to a long-lasting friendship between architect and client, and was the subject of the 2012 documentary The Oyler House: Richard Neutra’s Desert Retreat. Lynch and Glazer make for worthy caretakers: The pair’s appreciation for midcentury everything runs so deep that their courtship partly hinged on it. “When Mitch and I started dating we’d buy furniture for houses that we didn’t have—stockpiling a Corbusier chair or a Barcelona set,” says Lynch. The passion didn’t initially get passed on to Shane (an actress whose credits include a turn on Ray Donovan): “She used to sing that line from The Addams Family song, ‘My house is a museum,’—she didn’t know what we were so excited about,” says Lynch, adding that Shane favored Shabby Chic for a time as a form of rebellion. “But all of a sudden it clicked: She’s a convert.” A native of Miami Beach, Glazer received an education in craftsmanship from a young age. His father created midcentury lighting as an electrical engineer working for Morris Lapidus, the man behind the Fontainebleau and the Eden Roc. “I was born and raised in a post and beam house,” he says. “So it feels not only aesthetically spectacular, but like home.” Lynch’s indoctrination was more instinctual. “I was the girl who was making modern Barbie swing pads out of shoeboxes,” she recalls. “I didn’t want a dollhouse: I wanted to build a house.” The first per-diem she ever received, for Drugstore Cowboy, she put toward a collection of 1950s Russel Wright American Modern dishes. “I was so nervous I was going to spend it on something stupid, like a dress,” she says. Their curated decor reads like a who’s who: from a rare Neutra-designed wood and metal camel table and chair set that lives in the dining room with a Paul McCobb bar cart, to a biomorphic Noguchi coffee table with a glass top and walnut wood base in the living room. Artwork includes a photograph of Mono Lake by Macduff Everton—

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“I was the GIRL who was making modern BARBIE swing pads out (tbd) of shoeboxes. I didn’t want a dollhouse: I wanted to BUILD a house.”


Lynch takes a dip in the familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rock pool.

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XXXX Kelly Lynch

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“There are newer cars and safer cars, but this is the one that I love,” says Glazer of his Pontiac GTO. “It’s the same thing with the house. One of the perverse joys is to look at real estate for sale in magazines and [think]: There’s nothing I want—I have what I love.”

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From top: Lynch and Glazer share a moment in the driveway. The entryway, accessorized with bullhorns and a vase by artist John Free containing an arrangement by his brother, florist Joseph Free. A rainbow arches behind the monumental rock formation. A Neutra tome anoints the Noguchi glasstopped coffee table. Opposite: Lynch relaxes with a glass of rosé.

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an aquatic counterpoint to the arid exterior. “You have to be very careful what you put in here, because you’re competing with the greatest images of all,” says Lynch, nodding outside. “Your eye goes that way.” The family’s inclinations are similarly oriented; days revolve around hiking, horseback riding, languorous afternoon dips in their rock pool—dynamited into shape by the Oylers—and excursions for catch-and-release fishing or skiing. “You can start to believe whatever Hollywood BS gets fed into your head, but you come here and it’s a recalibration,” says Lynch. Evenings wind down over martinis on the patio, where they watch the light change as a glittering blanket of constellations comes into focus. For Glazer, it’s

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moments like these that beg to be captured: “Someday it would be fun to claim it on the screen,” he says, revealing his ambition to situate a script here, and noting the copious credits the locale already has to its name, from 1939 Cary Grant classic Gunga Din to Gladiator. He’s even got a working opening sequence, in which a group of grizzled cowboys rides in over the hill and comes face to face with a groovy, caftan-wearing, Julianne-Moore-in-A Single Man-type. “Sell it for three or four minutes as a Western, and then there she is: ‘I thought you’d never get here,’ with a cocktail shaker,” says Glazer. “That’s all we have; the beginning. But hey, it’s something.” •


HAIR AND MAKEUP: ERIN LEE SMITH USING DIORSKIN NUDE AND DIOR ADDICT. STYLIST ASSISTANT: KARLIE MEIJA. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, P.253

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I CA Saying goodbye to NEW YORK is a literary TRADITION: a PURSUIT made famous by JOAN DIDION. We invited a group of accomplished WRITERS based in L.A.—a city increasingly viewed by many to be the incumbent CULTURAL CENTER of the country—to offer their own reversal on the genre

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MELISSA GOLDSTEIN


ILLUSTRATION (OPPOSITE): CHAD WEAVER. FRIEDMAN PORTRAIT: IAN FLANIGAN FOR THE DRESLYN. JOSHUA TREE PORTRAIT: LAVANYA MAHENDRAN

Ann Friedman I spent the worst year of my life in New York—the Reality Bites phase—right after graduation. I moved from Missouri to join my college boyfriend, who had landed my dream job at The New York Times. I found quasi-employment in the form of an internship at a nonprofit, where I carefully selected stock photos of the most “real-looking” women and children to accompany bleak statistics. I was not in New York because I had something to prove, or because I wanted to draw some lines around a blurry fantasy of city life. I was there because I couldn’t think of anywhere else to go. New York was someone else’s story that I halfheartedly inhabited because I was painfully aware that I hadn’t yet written my own. I didn’t meet interesting people. I didn’t do interesting drugs. I did not walk through Washington Square Park at dawn, or stumble into a cab, laughing, to get out of the driving rain. I did not take cabs. Ever. I was broke—and not in a Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe starving-artist kind of way. In a “staying home and watching DVDs and eating stir-fry” kind of way. So I didn’t say “goodbye to all that.” I just said goodbye. In Joan Didion’s parting note to the city she loved at 23, she writes, “I do not mean ‘love’ in any colloquial way. I mean that I was in love with the city, the way you love the first person who ever touches you and you never love anyone quite that way again.” New York and I? We were always meant to be platonic. But our breakup was still marked by that particular euphoric freedom that comes with pushing aside a relationship that’s been weighing you down. I drove west, across the entire country, by myself. All of my meager possessions fit in the trunk and back seat of my Honda sedan. I lived in San Francisco for a year, working as

an intern at Mother Jones magazine and maintaining my cheap-noodle diet, before the promise of a full-time job lured me east again. It would take me another four years—and another euphoric crosscountry solo road trip—to find myself back in the state where I belong. I visited Los Angeles only briefly and knew only a few people there, yet as soon as I arrived I was ready to settle in for good. I’d just accepted what now qualified as my dream job: executive editor of GOOD magazine. I worked grueling hours and spent more time in the car than I would have liked, but I didn’t ex-

ing western edge of this continent—or, more specifically, my sun-drenched home office on a hilltop on the east side of Los Angeles—I look back at friends who have stuck things out with New York and think, How? Why? They acknowledge that they really like California, too, but could never move here because they’d get too “soft.” At first this confused me, but I’ve come to believe that a lot of people equate comfort with complacency, calmness with laziness. If you’re happy, you’re not working hard enough. You’ve stopped striving. They are correct that there is a certain calmness and comfort to California. Sun yourself (with proper SPF, of course). Let your guard down. Breathe deeply, and you’ll smell the jasmine and dusty sage. Show up 20 minutes late. (Just text “Sorry—traffic.”) Explore the weirder corners of your spirituality with a tarot reader instead of a therapist. Describe yourself, without sarcasm, as a writerslash-creative entrepreneur who got laid off from her dream job but managed to build an even dreamier career as a freelance journalist. And while you’re at it, work from home. Spread out. Wear the comfortable pants. Didion writes that she could never recreate a life back East because “at some point the golden rhythm was broken.” It’s impossible for me to know if my California life is so much better than my East Coast trysts because I’ve simply grown up and worked The author in my way into a better phase, Joshua Tree, 2013. or whether coming here was what allowed me to find happerience the newcomer alienation that piness and success. These things are so many complain about. I met generinextricable. What I do know is that I’m ous people who invited me into their still striving. And I didn’t lose a golden lives and introduced me to their friends. rhythm back East; I found it out West. Maybe I got lucky. Or maybe they could Ann Friedman is a columnist for New sense what I’d known for a long time: York magazine’s website, a contributor that California was home, and I wasn’t to The Guardian and Elle, and co-host of going anywhere. the podcast Call Your Girlfriend. Read From my perch on the dry and crackmore of her work at annfriedman.com. •

From my PERCH on the dry and cracking WESTERN edge of this continent … I look back at friends who have Feature stuck things (tbd) out with NEW YORK and think, How? Why?

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Kevin West It was January in Paris, and if you know anything about Paris winters, that means that it was raining, had been raining for weeks, and would be raining for weeks to come. I’m from East Tennessee originally, but I’d been working for W magazine in France, and after being there for three-and-a-half years, I told my boss at the time, Patrick McCarthy, that I was ready to come back. He said, “There’s an opportunity in Los Angeles if you’d like that—think about it overnight and get back to me.” I had this vision of a house and a car and a dog bathed in golden sunlight. By the time the phone hit the cradle, I’d decided that I was moving. I was under the influence of everyone from Mike Davis [author of City of Quartz] to John Muir to Alice Waters. All

few things I wanted in a house: a cottage with a huge room with a fireplace, a big kitchen that I could cook and entertain in, and lots of outdoor space for terracotta pots with lemon trees. I stayed at Chateau Marmont for the first two weeks, and spent time exploring neighborhoods. One morning I was driving around and saw someone walking a dog. I pulled over and asked, “What is this area?” I explained that I’d just moved here and was looking for a house. She said, “This is Laurel Canyon. Welcome home.” It turned out she was a real estate agent. A few days later she took me to a 1929 Spanish-style cottage on Greenvalley Road. We stepped in the front door and I said: “This is it.” Work was exciting in the beginning, because there’s so much glamour associated with “the industry.” One of my first gigs was writing a cover story about Brad Pitt, which meant I got to spend an afternoon hanging out in a hotel suite with him. It was fun. But once I started to know L.A. better, I discovered the real truth: that it’s not a one-industry town. And while the entertainment business may be well-known around the country

and the world, I found it equally rewarding to learn about the other things that the city has to offer; food, art, architecture and so on. Because my house was so good for entertaining, I started cooking a lot and throwing parties. I wound up finding the Santa Monica Farmers Market, and developed an undying love for the place. One day in April 2008, I bought a crate of strawberries. Walking back to my car, I realized there was no way I could use them all up; in that moment, I remembered my grandmother’s strawberry jam from when I was a kid and decided to try to make it. That was the beginning of a hobby that became an obsession that led to my website and book [of the same name], Saving the Season—a project that allowed me to quit W and establish a second career here. It led me to the other thing that I’m really proud of having done here—which is consult at the Grand Central Market. The transformation of Downtown is one of the most dramatic and unexpected things that I’ve observed. California still represents the future in ways that I had imagined and not imagined: I got a house and a car and sunWest on the road shine; sadly, I’ve in the Eastern never gotten a dog. Sierras above Independence. I think that L.A.—a large, globally relevant city, where the culture is being redefined on an ongoing basis by this intersection of identities, a deep experience of manifest destiny, by tech and entertainment, as well as issues like limitations of resources and challenges to infrastructure—perhaps best captures the 21st century. And, of course, we’re only at the beginning of it. Kevin West is a reporter and author of Saving the Season: A Cook’s Guide to Home Canning, Pickling, and Preserving (Knopf). He is also co-creative director of Grand Central Market. His next book, Truffle Boy, will be published in 2016. •

California is America RAISED to the 10th power; all of what I think is BEST about America is really AVAILABLE and intensified here. of these things, for me, represented California. So I moved to L.A. in June 2004. The thing that struck me when I first got here is how California is America raised to the 10th power; the optimism, the expansiveness, the beautiful countryside, the multicultural city—all of what I think is best about America is really available and intensified here. The day that I left Paris, as the 747 was lumbering through the skies, I pulled out my Moleskine notebook and wrote out a

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An interior vignette from West’s house in Laurel Canyon.

WEST PORTRAIT: SCOTT STERNBERG. CAR SHOT: STEPHEN RINGER. INTERIOR VIGNETTE: KEVIN WEST

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Susan Orlean

writer who is primarily working in books and magazines, I would feel like a complete outlier and fifth wheel in a world where everybody was writing for television and film, but that has proven not to be the case. There’s a vibrant community here, and I think, actually, I enjoy a certain bit of exoticism among the people I know in the entertainment business.

ORLEAN PORTRAIT: NOAH FECKS. BEACH SHOTS: COURTESY OF SUSAN ORLEAN

My husband was one of those people who thought L.A. was the wasteland of civilization. So he was an amenable, but reluctant, trailing spouse, when about seven or eight years ago I proposed that we rent a house here through VRBO. We were living in Boston at the time, and I was writing my book Rin Tin Tin. Much of the research material that I needed was in L.A. and in Riverside. My son was just an infant, so I thought, rather than travel back and forth, why don’t we all just go out there for a couple of months? The first place we rented was a house in Malibu on two acres on the beach. I often like to remember that moment of arriving, and my husband’s jaw dropping. We are both hopeless and have no realistic sense of life, so we started fantasizing: Wouldn’t it be great to have a house in L.A.? One day we walked into a Schindler house in Studio City and fell head over heels. We persuaded ourselves that it made all sorts of sense to purchase it. Part of the thrill of Los Angeles is that there’s amazing architecture and you can actually live in it. So we bought it as our second home, came out on occasion, and rented it out for the next couple of years. The turnabout came four years ago when a company out here that my husband was working with and advising wanted him to get more involved. I said, “Let’s go.” We thought it would be for nine months or a year; we hardly even said goodbye to anybody. But we fell in love with living here. It’s the first place that I’ve lived, since I was a kid, that in many ways reminded me of how I grew up [in Cleveland, Ohio]; there’s something essentially suburban about Los Angeles, in the best sense. An urban setting, but with the gentle contours of a less urban life. I was always concerned that, being a

part of my personality. I’m not shortchanged culturally, and I’m hiking in really rugged places two minutes from my house. That’s a unique quality of L.A., but I also think there’s something else: Los Angeles, because of its vastness, has endless opportunity for crazy dreams to be realized; for nutty entrepreneurial

Orlean’s husband, John Gillespie, and their son on the beach in Malibu.

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I often like to REMEMBER that MOMENT of ARRIVING, and my husband’s jaw DROPPING. Orlean and her son, Austin.

Moving to L.A. was almost a guilty pleasure; feeling like, Oh my God, I can basically continue doing everything I’ve been doing, but have better weather. I’m not big on missing places—I really am present wherever I am—and I also don’t feel like I’ve given up some essential

ventures to have their moment; and for a mix of cultures that fall on top of each other. That’s a quality that’s very California: the kind of boundless opportunity that it seems to offer. It feels unlimited. Susan Orlean is the bestselling author of eight books, including The Orchid Thief, the basis of the Academy Award-winning film Adaptation. A staff writer for The New Yorker since 1992, Orlean lives in Los Angeles and upstate New York with one dog, three cats, eight chickens, three ducks, and her husband and son. She is currently working on a book for Simon and Schuster about the 1986 arson fire set at the Los Angeles Public Library. •

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I’ve always had a prairie fetish. I lived in Lincoln, Nebraska for no particular reason in my 20s: I loved the big sky and flat landscape and had been there doing reporting for a magazine story. I kind of dared myself to move there, to take this radical detour. So I stayed in Lincoln for three or four years, sold a novel, and got a movie deal for it. Which is not to say that I moved to L.A. for the deal—I could have easily stayed in Nebraska—but I had always been very intrigued by L.A. When I arrived, I drove to Topanga

I was single and working from home and Feature far enough UP Saddle Peak Road that I was ABOVE the cloudline—it was a deadly COMBINATION.

Daum’s dog Rex on Kite Hill, across the street from her house in Echo Park.

Canyon, which hewed closely to my vision—I was in the city, and at the same time, a hawk would fly overhead, and there were coyotes. But it was completely wrong. I was new to town and didn’t know very many people; I was

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Liza Powel O’Brien On windy days, our neighbor’s eucalyptus tree litters our yard with swaths of husk. The tree is not hurt by the exfoliation, but it’s a reminder of what kind of place this is that a stiff breeze can shear the skin off something so massive. “The literal edge of the earth” is what I call where we live. In actuality, that point is a few miles beyond us, but we can see it if we stand on our tiptoes. We can also feel it—there’s a rawness in the air and the land (more so now that it’s parched and weeping dust). A few months after we moved to Los Angeles from New York in 2009, I felt as if we had gone on vacation and forgotten to go home. My husband [Conan O’Brien] and his new job as host of The Tonight Show took us away from the city I had chosen in my 20s to be my own. I was drawn to the history, the extremity, the panoply of it all. The energetic hum of so much compressed humanity made me cozy. L.A., on the other hand, was not someplace I had ever aspired to be. From my perspective 3,000 miles away, I found it flat, one-dimensional, and shallow. “No one ever chooses that city for its own sake,” I complained. “It’s a means to an end.” “You want to know the big secret about L.A.?” my husband asked. “It’s great. You’ll see. People who move there don’t move back.” But I mourned the transition in advance. I pulled up roots before I had even set them down, shirking invitations in favor of pushing the stroller down miles of sidewalk to gorge myself on visuals: Madison Avenue storefronts, the elms along the mall, tiny cobbler shops and cluttered bodegas, the butcher who sells homemade soup and gossips about Betty Bacall. I obsessively crossed Central Park on foot, as if by spending enough time inside it, I might be able to take it with me. I was born and raised in Seattle, but

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DAUM PORTRAIT: ALEXANDRA DEAN GROSSI. REX: MEGHAN DAUM. O’BRIENS: COURTESY OF AFI/MICHAEL KOVAC

Meghan Daum

single and working from home, and far enough up on Saddle Peak Road that I was above the cloudline—20 minutes past the town itself. It was a deadly combination. My sheepdog Rex loved it. But I was so lonely that I couldn’t take it anymore after four or five months, and I relocated to Venice. I think I lived in 12 or 13 different places during a period of three to four years. I wrote a book called Life Would Be Perfect If I Lived in That House, which is all about moving. I don’t like to travel, but I love to move. Here in Los Angeles in particular, the home is the locus. It becomes this vessel for so many things about your personality; your anxieties, your ambitions. It’s just like the ultimate metaphor and signifier. Going to open houses is my hobby, regardless of whether I’m looking or not. I sort of incrementally made my way east; from Venice to Beachwood Canyon and Silver Lake, and then I found Echo Park—a great combination of wildness and urban-ness. I had a lot of friends in Nebraska, but I needed a community of people in my field. It took my settling on the east side to find that concentrated element. There was one day in 2004 or 2005 when I went to a literary party in Silver Lake—I didn’t even know the person who was throwing it, but I got there and it was like: This is where everybody is. I bought a tiny little house in 2004 in Elysian Heights. It was a stupid little house—less than 700 square feet—but it was on a hill and near Elysian Park. It was rangy and scrappy in certain places, but I liked that. It had a little bit of an Austin, Texas vibe, with steep hills. I remember my first morning there; I took the dog on a walk and I just thought: I’m in exactly the right place. Meghan Daum is an opinion columnist at The Los Angeles Times and the author, most recently, of The Unspeakable: And Other Subjects of Discussion. She is also the editor of Selfish, Shallow & Self-Absorbed: Sixteen Writers on the Decision Not to Have Kids. •


MOUNTAIN SHOT: LIZA POWEL O’BRIEN

A photo from one of Powel O’Brien’s hikes in the scrub behind her house.

New York was where I grew up. It was where I put many things to bed: my fear of taking up space in the world, my compulsion to please everyone, my career in advertising, my child-self. It is where I became a wife and a mother and a boss. Where I learned how to give direction, who and when to tip, and how to jump the line when absolutely necessary. Our first year in L.A., the children sat in the hot tub every afternoon. We ate chocolate-chip pancakes at the Beverly Hills Hotel as if it would ensure our salvation. When the kids were in school, I wandered Rodeo Drive, pretending it was the Upper East Side, and then got in my car and cried. Who tries to start a career as a playwright after leaving the epicenter of American theater? My timing sucked. I befriended another East Coast expat. Together, we derided our new city, fetishizing the East as our children leapt into the pool on a February afternoon. What we loved about New York, we decided, was that everything was on display: people, art, architecture—the story of human existence writ large on every block. From the stiletto heel stepping across the outstretched legs of a homeless man to the sea of taxis parked outside the mosque on Riverside Drive, New York is a dynamic living portrait. We sighed for our loss as a breeze gently ruffled the leaves of the sycamore above us and our children nibbled on fresh strawberries. “The truth is,” I said, “one day, our kids are going to leave, we’ll be able to live anywhere, and we’ll realize we’ve been in paradise all this time.” As soon as I said it, I knew that it was true. After a year and a half, this place was finally working on me. The enormous coral trees on San Vicente Boulevard, the purple jacarandas as common as lampposts, the riotous bougainvillea, the solitary owl who speaks his tone poem to our little valley every night— they had all become dear to me, as dear as wrought-iron doorways and checkerboard marble floors and antique subway tile would ever be.

There’s a farmers MARKET every day of the week and the produce is INSANE, but great, unpredictable upheavals lurk in our collective FUTURE. After that, when I hiked into the scrub behind our house, I saw that I had been looking for the wrong things. Skyscrapers and liveried doormen, public breakups and street-corner brawls— these were the signposts of civilization as I knew it, and a city without them, I feared, was doomed to be uncivilized (or boring). But what plays out here is more elemental. A mountain lion roams our neighborhood in the evenings. We share hiking trails with rattlesnakes. Gangs of coyotes echo louder in the canyon than any siren screaming down Broadway. Los Angeles, these acres of land smashed between mountains and sea, is itself a scrim between civilization and nature. After living here for six years, it makes all the sense in the world to me that Edward Weston shot his pornographic peppers while living in Glendale. Us plus nature—that’s the drama, and we’re not in control of it. The story is not so much what we have created but how we fit ourselves into Creation. We balance on cliffs and straddle the tide and it’s glorious and daunting, all at once. There’s a farmers market every day of the week and the produce is insane, but great, unpredictable upheavals lurk in our collective future and hillsides will

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continue to burst into flame. Of course, rich deposits of art and culture do lurk among the seams. I discovered a reading series in a tiny room over a bar, found my way to a playwriting conference in the arid hills of Ojai, and won a spot in a local theater festival that ran my piece—fully staged—for eight days. Rather than gaining admission to the Establishment, I am excavating a community of likeminded souls, and there may be no better way to evolve. New York is an endless dare. “How much can you take?” it asks. How much noise, how much crowding, how much stench, how much spectacle, how much disparity, how much promise, how much despair? It’s a city that needs you to be hooked on it or it wouldn’t exist. But California couldn’t care less what you do. It doesn’t play by humanity’s rules or care how well you’ve learned to navigate them. We didn’t make this place and its beauty is too large to bend to our will. “Stay or don’t,” it seems to say, like a whale to a barnacle. I’m always transfixed, if only for a heartbeat, by the sight of the Pacific, and as I stand staring at it, the air picks at me unbuffeted, making me feel very much at the edge of something—the world? The future? It sloughs the old skin off and leaves me bare, wondering what might come next. Liza Powel O’Brien is a playwright whose work has appeared most recently as a part of UnScreened, L.A.’s one-act festival. Her plays have also been staged at the Lark Theatre in New York, Ojai Playwrights Conference, Naked Angels LA and Hedgebrook. She holds an MFA in fiction from Columbia University. •

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I first met KIM KARDASHIAN WEST 10 years ago and since then, everything about her LIFE has changed. She’s achieved enormous SUCCESS in business (with books, products, shows, a video game and, this fall, a new website launch), become a FASHION ICON, married a music industry magnate, and is now pregnant with their second child. Miraculously, though, she is the same in many ways—no small task, considering she has 43 MILLION Instagram followers watching her every move. For all of the polarized perceptions about her, she is, at the core, a woman living her CALIFORNIA dream to the fullest extent.

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C 228 SEPTEMBER 2015


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“I used to do ANYTHING and EVERYTHING. When a BRAND would come to me and it sounded like a GOOD DEAL, I would do it. But I see how my husband doesn’t do anything unless he is IN CONTROL and BELIEVES in it.”

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You’re so multifaceted; if you could summarize your job title in one word, what would it be? Kim Kardashian West: I would say “entrepreneur” if I had to say one word. When I’m traveling and they ask what my occupation is I never know what to say—I always switch it. Sometimes I’ll say perfumer, sometimes author. Sometimes I’ll just say [retail] sales. How do you find the time to manage all of your business ventures? Working with my sisters makes it easy because we really know what each other is best at. Every week we have a meeting where we sit down to go through whatever we’re working on, whether it’s our haircare, kids’ or clothing lines, shoes or handbags, we try to schedule three or four hours into one day to go through approvals, fittings and casting. If I’m working on an individual project, like my fragrance, I will only work on it if I’m 100 percent passionate about it, because that takes me away from my family. I base my whole schedule around my daughter and my husband—that’s how life is now. It sounds like you always stay focused on putting your family first, and then the rest works out. When I was pregnant with [North], I thought, My life is so hectic—how am I gonna take her to ballet classes and soccer? I had these visions of all the things I did growing up, and I was really freaked out. And when it happens, you just instinctively know how to do it. Has motherhood affected your career? A lot. It has taught me how to prioritize. And I was forced to take a break for awhile. I never liked downtime, but I decided I enjoy it—that’s when the fun ideas come about. I felt like I was, I don’t want to say overexposed, but I had too many different projects. When I was brainstorming on my maternity leave, that’s when one of my greatest projects, the video game, came about. And that’s also when the book concept came—I was sitting there going through old photos, organizing my desktop. I remember when you told me you were gonna try for another one, and I was like, “Oh my God, already?” And then boom, you were pregnant… It doesn’t seem like that to me,

though. It was over a year of trying, and I had so many complications. I had this condition called placenta accreta. There were a couple of little operations to fix all that, so that created a little hole in my uterus, which I think made it really tough to get pregnant again. It was a long road. I would go to the doctor in Beverly Hills every day at five in the morning to get tested to see if I was ovulating. I was trying everything: I did acupuncture and got a nutritionist to eat healthier, thinking that was an issue. I did the same thing. We’d have ovulation parties, for over a year while my husband [Nick Valensi] was on tour. I would show up in the weirdest cities. The band would be like, “Oh, she’s ovulating.” Yes, it takes the fun out of it. I’m like, “I’m ovulating, get home now!” He’d be like, “Wait, I’m in the studio.” Will you stop at two kids then? Well, they think I’ll have placenta accreta again, so if the placenta grows a little bit deeper than it did last time, then they are prepared to have my uterus removed, which is a little scary for me. I think we’re just gonna go day by day, see how overwhelming it is, and see how the delivery goes. What is it like to be so scrutinized during a pregnancy, when your body is changing so much? The first time I was pregnant, Kanye and I were dating and I was just being introduced to the world of fashion. I wanted to work with a bunch of different stylists, and when you work with a new stylist, everyone wants to possess your look. They wanted me in really outrageous things, and really fashion-y things. It probably wasn’t the time to be experimenting. After that, Kanye and I were just like, “Let’s do it ourselves.” It was mainly him figuring it out; what my look was and what I was comfortable in. So now I’ve had two years to really come into my own and have my own style. For this pregnancy, I’m definitely more simple. I figured out a formula of what works. And I also feel lucky that as of right now, I don’t feel like I’m gonna get preeclampsia again, which last time [contributed to] not only the weight, but also the swelling that everyone would make fun of, not understanding that I had this condition.

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“PEOPLE ask me all the time if I have a SOCIAL MEDIA strategy—do I POST Feature at certain times—and I don’t have a REAL STRATEGY for ANY OF THAT.”

C 232 SEPTEMBER 2015

Everyone thinks of my mom as this puppet master, but no one can tell any of us what to do. She makes the best decisions and she makes the business deals happen. But, as far as strategizing, I would say that I’m a bit more involved in the strategy side. When our show first came out, I was like, “It’s got to be the family. If anyone thinks that I’m wild and crazy and gonna make a good show, they’re wrong. I’m probably the most boring and conservative out of the sisters, so we’ve got to show Khloe, we’ve got to show Kourt, everyone has to be on.” Khloe texted me last night and said, “You really are the Wizard of Oz behind the curtains.” But as far as an overall strategy, people ask me all the time if I have a social media strategy— do I post at certain times—and I don’t have a real strategy for any of that. How selective are you with your projects? I used to do anything and everything. When a brand would come to me and it sounded like a good deal, I would do it. But I see how my husband doesn’t do anything unless he is in control and believes in it—I was doing anything just to do it, and I had to take a step back. What did you say you wanted to be when you were younger? When I was 12 or 13 I would tell my best friend that we had to be on The Real World. It had just come out and I was like, “When we are 18 we have to make audition tapes.” And I remember she said, “We’re not going to make tapes, we are going to have my dad call,” because her dad was a manager in the business. Then she said, “I don’t want to be on a show but I’ll be your manager.” And now she is in the management business and I’m working on a reality show with the same production company that does The Real World. How has your own show evolved? Being on a reality show doesn’t get the respect I feel it should. But I love doing it, and if you think about the issues we are really passionate about, the things we bring to light, I’m proud of that. Whether it’s a transgender issue or things that we are dealing with: divorce or breakups or happy relationships. We show the fun stuff and the crazy stuff, but we try to show a good message. Continued on p.252

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HAIR: CHRIS M C MILLAN FOR SOLOARTISTS.COM. MAKEUP: MARIO DEDIVANOVIC AT THE WALL GROUP. LOCATION: EL MIRAGE DRY LAKE, CA. SEE SHOPPING GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS, P.253

Was that hurtful? It was the worst! I couldn’t help it, and everyone would say, “She can’t stop eating.” I delivered at 180, and they were like, “She’s 210 pounds. She’s getting dumped because she’s too fat” and all these ridiculous stories. It really took a toll after the fact, when I was losing weight. I gained 50 pounds, and it’s tough to get it off. I was dedicated, but also, it changed the way I viewed wanting my picture taken. Before I was always smiling, and so into being out and about. After I had the baby, I was like, these are the same people that made fun of me, and posted the stories that were so awful, calling me fat for something I couldn’t control. I don’t want to smile for them. I don’t want to be out. Even if I was more confident, I just didn’t feel like being that girl who was going to be smiling for every photo. It changed my mood; it changed who I was; it changed my personality a lot. How do you feel about your daughter being scrutinized? Luckily, the paparazzi have been really respectful, especially overseas. That’s great, I’ve never heard anyone else say that. Yeah, that’s probably why I can take her to ballet and things that she enjoys, because I feel like there has been a boundary that we’ve set. Kourtney and I talk about it all the time, that it’s about teaching our kids that it’s a different world: there’s social media where you can be scrutinized. Our kids are too young, but [for] our sisters Kendall and Kylie—they’re teenagers, and they love to share their lives, that’s just what teenagers do. But it can be hard on your soul when you are so scrutinized. So it’s just about raising strong children. I would pray that whoever we bring into this life could handle this lifestyle, and I really believe they can. They chose us because they can. I look a lot at how my parents raised me, and I hear amazing stories of how my husband was raised, so you just have to try to live the most normal life within this craziness. How involved are you with strategy? Your mom is your “momager”...


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On Natalie (left): MIU MIU coat, $3,805, sweater, $760, skirt, $2,265, shoes, price upon request, and earrings, $360. BALENCIAGA vintage sunglasses, stylist’s own. On Kelsey: PRADA top, $2,260, pants, $1,040, gloves, $675, brooch, $850, and bag, $2,485. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA shoes, $765. BALENCIAGA vintage sunglasses, stylist’s own.


RENÉ & RADKA Styling by DEBORAH AFSHANI Photography by

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Throwback Thursday and Flashback Friday just got a lot more CHIC: This fall, ’60S MOD—replete with SHORTENED hemlines, BOLD COLORS and statement coats—makes a welcome return


On Natalie (left): BALLY jacket, $2,195, dress, $1,595, and pants, $2,295. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA heels, $1,095. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO bag, $2,100. CARTIER ring, $9,550. On Kelsey: VERSACE dress, price upon request, and coat, $3,125. ROGER VIVIER boots, $2,250.

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On Kelsey (left): DIOR top, $1,600, pants, $1,200, boots, price upon request, and necklace, $1,950. On Natalie: SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE cape, price upon request, and dress, $3,290. STUART WEITZMAN boots, $485.


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On Kelsey (left): LOUIS VUITTON sweater, blouse, skirt, boots and belt, price upon request. DOLCE & GABBANA bag, $2,395. BALENCIAGA vintage sunglasses, stylist’s own. On Natalie: BALENCIAGA top, $4,450, pants, $1,995, heels, $1,635, gloves, $2,965, bag, $3,450, drop earrings, $785, and vintage sunglasses, stylist’s own.

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RED VALENTINO dress, $895.

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On Kelsey (left): FENDI gilet, $2,450, pants, similar styles available, and gloves, $1,150. On Natalie: BOTTEGA VENETA sweater, $1,400, and skirt, $2,250. WE LOVE COLORS tights, $13.


On Natalie (left): PRADA coat, $7,390, brooch, $850, and shoes, price upon request. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN bag, $1,795. WE LOVE COLORS tights, $13. On Kelsey: PETER PILOTTO coat, $3,280. ROGER VIVIER boots, $2,095. BULGARI earrings, $3,900. MAKEUP ORLANE Teint Absolu Treatment Foundation, $70. MAKE UP FOR EVER Step 1 Skin Equalizer primer, $36, Aqua Creamliner in Matte Black, $22, and Aqua Cream eyeshadow in Peach, $23. NARS Satin Lip Pencil in Rikugien, $26.

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By

DEGEN PENER

With a new show at L.A. LOUVER in Venice, artist DAVID HOCKNEY revisits his PASSION for technology with a series of mesmerizing NEW WORKS

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C 246 SEPTEMBER 2015


David Hockney with Bora Bora glasses photographed by Michael Childers at Rising Glen, Hollywood Hills in 1978.

Š MICHAEL CHILDERS/CORBIS

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The Chair, 2015 (left), and Studio Interior #1, 2014, hang in L.A. Louver.


OPPOSITE: COLUMBINE GOLDSMITH. TOP LEFT, TOP RIGHT AND LOWER CENTER: © DAVID HOCKNEY IMAGES COURTESY L.A. LOUVER, VENICE, CA. HOCKNEY PORTRAIT AND OPENING RECEPTION: COLUMBINE GOLDSMITH. HOCKNEY AND GOULDS: STEFANIE KEENAN

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At David Hockney’s house in the Hollywood Hills, a new person shows up to have his or her portrait painted every few days. The schedule is unerring: The subject (be it book publisher Benedikt Taschen, LACMA curator Stephanie Barron, Hockney’s housekeeper or his longtime car detailer) arrives at 10 a.m. and takes a place on an unremarkable armchair. “I let them just sit down, and I find that they all sit in different ways,” says Hockney. The chair is

Clockwise from left: The Red Table, 2014. The Group V, 6-11 May, 2014. Portrait of the 78-year-old artist. Card Players #3, 2014. Below: The exhibition at L.A. Louver runs through Sept. 19. David Hockney and Peter Goulds, founding director of L.A. Louver.

set upon a raised platform in natural light across from the England-born artist, who two years ago returned to his longtime residence in Los Angeles after almost eight years in Yorkshire. On day one of each sitting, Hockney—in between frequent cigarette breaks—does a charcoal sketch of the person in less than an hour. By the end of the second day, the portrait is largely complete, leaving the third day to capture the nuances and

SEPTEMBER 2015 C 249


details such as the face and hands. Work commences promptly in the morning, followed by a break for lunch prepared by Hockney’s housekeeper, and the proceedings wrap by 4 p.m. “All I want to do is work. I don’t go out much,” says Hockney, who turned 78 in July. The artist’s longtime friend, former assistant and frequent subject, Charlie Scheips, finds his focus remarkable: “He’s scrutinizing, looking constantly back and forth from the subject to the canvas to the brush. I think he’s drawing and seeing better than ever.” Landscape designer and contractor Bradley James Bontems, who sat for Hockney last year, adds: “Even with his skill and his talent, it’s not easy for him. It takes a lot of energy. He’s looking very intently at you— it takes a bit of getting used to at the start.” Los Angeles has always invigorated Hockney, who made his name in the 1960s with his vibrant, now-iconic paintings of California swimming pools and male bathers. “The light here is marvelous. It’s a lot better than England,” says Hockney, who moved back to L.A. after the tragic 2013 drug-related death in his home of one of his assistants. Afterward, traumatized by the loss, he nearly gave up drawing and painting. Since his return to the West Coast, he’s been “working like a maniac,” says Scheips, completing dozens of paintings. Over the summer, 37 new works went on display at Venice’s L.A. Louver gallery, which has represented Hockney since the late 1970s. The July 15 opening was the 40-year-old gallery’s most thronged ever, drawing 1,000 collectors, subjects, celebrities (Jacqueline Bisset, Roger Corman), fellow artists (Thomas Demand, Ed Moses) and fans. A half-dozen of Hockney’s new portraits are included in the show, which runs through Sept. 19. But the centerpiece is work that forcefully demonstrates Hockney’s continued innovation in the use of technology for making art. On first glance, the pieces, which he calls “photographic drawings,” are simply images of groups of people gathered in interior spaces. Look closer and there’s

“EACH of the photographic works is constructed from several hundred images, Feature which are STITCHED together and digitally enhanced with BRUSHLIKE marks.”

C 250 SEPTEMBER 2015

something fascinating going on: Each person was photographed separately, then digitally stitched into the interiors. The effect is to dissolve one of the reigning precepts of Western art, a tenet dating back to the Renaissance: the necessity of a sole vanishing point. Instead, each figure has his or her own relationship to the space, creating multiple perspectives. The viewer’s eye can jump about the room, much as in real life. “With digital, perspective is freed. Look at Chinese art, Japanese art—there’s no vanishing point,” says Hockney, recalling the beauty of a long Chinese scroll he recently saw. “You can get along without [one].” The process is incredibly timeconsuming, according to L.A. Louver founder and director Peter Goulds, who has done 16 shows with the artist. “Each of the photographic works is constructed from several hundred images, which are stitched together and digitally enhanced with brushlike marks. A composite of approximately 125 photographs define the interior spaces of the studio, in which individual objects and collaged figures coexist within the pictorial space. Triangulation plays an essential role in each composition,” he says. Hockney later digitally draws in (with a painting app) a number of details, including shadows. Having previously utilized iPhones and iPads as creative tools, Hockney applauds the democratization of expression that technology has unleashed. “Everybody is a photographer now. Everybody is becoming a critic. Everybody is becoming a journalist,” he says. The one bit of technology he doesn’t like is his hearing aids—the artist has become increasingly deaf due to a hereditary degenerative condition. “He often takes them out,” says Scheips. A famously social creature in youth and middle age, he seldom ventures out to restaurants because the noise bothers him, and rarely listens to music, one of his great loves. But, by his own account, he is perfectly content. “I have plenty of work to do,” says Hockney, who remains busy completing his portrait series. He plans to do 75 paintings, all of which will be exhibited in the summer of 2016 at London’s Royal Academy of Arts. “So I can see I could go on for an awful long time. I have a nice life.” lalouver.com. •

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“Painting and Photography” marks Hockney’s 16th solo exhibition at L.A. Louver since 1978.

COLUMBINE GOLDSMITH

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SEPTEMBER 2015 C 24


MASTER PLANS CONTINUED FROM P.106

You’ve worked so extensively with computers to create your models. What’s been the most important contribution technology has made to your work? Technology can do two things in the right hands: It can facilitate better buildings to be built and it can assist in the establishment of better communication and processes,

You made your name in the late ’70s

go to five—he’s got his foot on the gas!”

renovating a house for yourself in Santa

she says of Eli with a laugh, adding, “My

Monica with such unconventional materi-

life is richer for these trips…with the new

als as chain link and corrugated metal. If

museum, many Angelenos’ lives will be

you had to build a new home for yourself

richer, too.” •

today, what would it look like? I am building a house for myself. I worked on it with my son Sam and it’s under construction now. It’s got a lot of wood and is very warm with really nicely scaled rooms. •

Some people think that my buildings are budgets—quite the opposite. Bilbao was

CONTINUED FROM P.232

Since your show is everyone’s guilty pleasure, what’s yours?

which make the buildings cheaper to build. expensive and that I am not mindful of

#UNFILTERED

I love to watch the forensic shows like

BROAD STROKES

Dateline NBC. I either watch that or Family

CONTINUED FROM P.190

Feud—it’s one or the other.

built for $300 a square foot. The primary

the late Nicholas Wilder’s legendary art out-

technology that we have used since Bil-

post on La Cienega Boulevard. She began

Let’s talk about your upcoming website launch, KimKardashianWest.com.

bao is CATIA, a 3-D modeling tool used in

buying works on paper and prints; when

We’re launching the site in the beginning

the aerospace and manufacturing worlds.

the artists’ names started to become recog-

of September. I’ve been spending months

Our process is therefore set up so that the

nizable, her husband took notice. Eli also

and months doing makeup tutorials, fashion

fabricators and contractors understand every

credits his introduction to the art world to

editorials and all these things exclusively

detail of what they need to build before they

Taft Schreiber, former vice president of

for the site, with all of my fashion tips and

have to build it. We also use 3-D printing in

MCA, a collector of 19th- and 20th-century

styles and what I’m wearing. It will all be

the office to quickly model certain aspects,

European and American art. Schreiber

posted on there in fun blog posts…and I’ll

though those models, to me, are very sterile.

schooled Eli in the subtleties of the hunt,

be live streaming. It’s really a place where

My dream is to be able to do what Boeing

and introduced the Broads to influential

my fans can connect.

did with the 777—build it paperlessly. I am

dealers and museum directors.

working on that.

You and each of your sisters have your

“I find art to be educational and inspira-

own websites with your own personal

ROSG

What was the biggest, most difficult

tional,” Eli says. “We became interested in

style and interests. Do you all help each

challenge that you worked through in

contemporary art because we enjoyed hav-

other with them?

your practice?

ing conversations with the artists. They

They’re individual projects. I don’t

The lack of people in the world who

have a different worldview than the bankers,

really know what they’re doing. I love to

are really interested in architecture and

lawyers and accountants we spent time

give suggestions to my sisters—I guess I’m

the high volume of people content with

with.” The Broads made their first major

just a little nosy because they haven’t even

mediocrity.

purchase in 1972, a Van Gogh drawing for

asked about mine.

Do you have a project you almost built and still wish you had?

$95,000, then drifted into contemporary realms,

including

very

early

Cindy

Where do you see your career in five, 10 years?

I try not to look back or waste time on re-

Sherman pieces from the basement of Metro

I probably won’t be as much in front of

grets. I learn something from every project

Pictures’ gallery in New York City. Through-

the camera, but a bit more behind the scenes

that I do, whether it’s built or not. However,

out the process, Edythe continued as an

as far as our clothing line and our stores. We

having said that, the Corcoran Gallery of

equal partner, making sure her husband was

have some big ideas and are kind of spacing

Art was a heartbreaker.

aware of various talents, such as Twombly.

it out. With our beauty line I just see that

What is the best feedback that you’ve

“I’ve always said that Twombly is an

being more of a brand, having tons of prod-

gotten from people who live in, or work in,

acquired taste, but Edythe loved his work

ucts and having it be super successful. And

or have experienced your work?

immediately,” notes Eli. “She continues to

I don’t know about in five years, but defi-

make discoveries in his works, even those

nitely in 10 years, I don’t see us filming the

that we’ve lived with for years.”

show day to day. But you never know—we

Every time I go to Disney Concert Hall, I get tons of people who tell me how

never thought it would go this long.

great the building is. The orchestra and

For collector and philanthropist Lilly

visiting soloist are always telling me

Tartikoff Karatz, the Broads’ range is just

You’ve really helped to shift the concept

how much they love playing there. On

one more reflection of the missionary

of a traditional blond and beachy Califor-

another occasion, I was in Cambridge and I

approach they take toward making an impact

nia girl, and opened the door to create

decided to go into the MIT Stata Center that

in whatever they do. She often travels on

space for what that really means. Do you

I designed. They have a student street with

art-focused trips with the couple and her

consider yourself a California girl?

chalkboards and wipe boards that the kids

husband, Bruce Karatz. “It would be obvious

Oh my God, totally! I really couldn’t

can graffiti. [I thought] no one knew I was

to say he’s like a sponge: When we get on

imagine life—being born and raised here—

coming, but right in the middle of the chalk-

the plane he’s consuming piles and piles

anywhere else. I feel so blessed to have

board was a note that said, “FRANK GEHRY,

and piles of information. And you don’t go

been able to travel the world, but my heart

WE LOVE YOU!” That was pretty nice.

to one museum or gallery in New York, you

is always in Cali. Like, 100 percent. •

C 252 SEPTEMBER 2015


SHOPPING GUIDE TABLE OF CONTENTS p.50 Tod’s leather dress, $7,925, Tod’s, B.H., 310-285-0591. Valentino gown, $32,000, Valentino, B.H., 310-247-0103. PEARL JAM p.144 Cartier pearl ring, $23,700, cartier.us. Jemma Wynne ear climbers, $2,940, Single Stone, S.F., 626-799-3109. Nikos Koulis earrings, $33,040, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900. Holly Dyment Fine Jewelry cluster ring, $4,335, Just One Eye, L.A., 888-563-6858. Marco Bicego ring, $1,300, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900. Pearl Collective pearl studs, $450, pearlcollective.com. Tiffany & Co. ring, price upon request, Tiffany & Co., B.H., 310-273-8880. Bulgari ring, price available upon request, 800-285-4274. Stephen Webster earrings, $595, Stephen Webster, B.H., 310-246-9500; stephenwebster.com. INTO THE WOODS p.197 Vera Wang dress, price upon request, Vera Wang, B.H., 323-602-0174. M Missoni jacket, $1,195, C.M., 714-6413170. Stuart Weitzman boots, $555, B.H., 310-860-9600. Daniela Villegas locket, $31,250, Just One Eye, L.A., 888-563-6858. Jennifer Fisher ring, $285, 888-255-0640; jenniferfisherjewelry.com. p.198 Dolce & Gabbana dress, price upon request, dolcegabbana.com. p.199 Erdem coat, $5,040, Neiman Marcus, B.H. Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem shoes, $980, Dover Street Market, N.Y., 646-837-7750. Jennifer Fisher ring, $285, 888-255-0640; jenniferfisherjewelry.com. p.201 Dries Van Noten dress, $1,280, skirt, $815, and necklace, $735, B.H. Michael Kors Collection shoes, $695, B.H.; michaelkors.com. p.202 Ralph Lauren Collection dress, $9,000, ralphlauren.com. Brunello Cucinelli sweater, $11,040, B.H., 310-724-8118. Pierre Hardy shoes, $795, pierrehardy.com. Jennifer Fisher ring, $3,500, 888-255-0640; jenniferfisher jewelry.com. p.203 Michael Kors Collection dress, $3,795, 866-709-5677; michaelkors.com. p.205 Oscar de la Renta dress, $5,490, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900. Chanel coat, $3,900, 800-550-0005. p.206 Valentino gown, $32,000, Valentino, B.H., 310-247-0103. Aquazzura black suede Bel Air Plateau shoes, $850, theeditorialist.com. Daniela Villegas centipede necklace, $9,575, and spider necklace, $27,950, Just One Eye, L.A., 888-563-6858. p.207 Gucci top, $1,380, skirt, $1,300, B.H., 310-278-3451. p.208 Tom Ford dress, $8,990, Tom Ford,

B.H., 310-870-9440. Giuseppe Zanotti Design sandals, $2,250, B.H., 310-8581990. p.209 Burberry dress, $3,295, and fringe cape, $10,000, burberry.com. MAKEUP Orlane Super Moisturizing Light Cream, $165, Orlane Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900; orlane.com. Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation, $62, kohgendocosmetics.com. Tom Ford Eye Color Quad in Coco Mirage, $80, Shade & Illuminate in Intensity One, $80, Brow Sculptor in taupe, $45, and Lip Color in vanilla suede, $52, Tom Ford, B.H., 310-270-9440; tomford.com. Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Skin Protectant, $21, Macy’s Westfield Century City, L.A., 310-556-1611; elizabetharden.com. HOME ON THE RANGE p.211 Kelly: Mother jeans, $196, motherdenim.com. p.212 Mother jeans, see p.211. Oliver Peoples Annetta Sunglasses, $405, Oliver Peoples, W.H., 310-734-5000. p.214 Etro brown printed dress, $3,586, Etro, B.H., 310-248-2855. p.215 Ulla Johnson Leti dress, $495, ulla johnson.com. For information about DeLaCour Ranch, contact delacourcabins @yahoo.com or 760-264-3213. For more information about Joseph or John Free, contact josephfree@sbcglobal.net.

ROSG

#UNFILTERED p.228 MAKEUP Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, $62, giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com. Benefit Cosmetics Hoola Bronzer, $28, benefitcosmetics.com. Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz in medium brown, $21, Anastasia Beverly Hills, B.H., 310-2733155; anastasiabeverlyhills.com. Kevyn Aucoin The Flesh Tone Lip Pencil in medium, $25, kevynaucoin.com. IT’S A MOD MOD WORLD p.234 Natalie: Miu Miu coat, $3,805, sweater, $760, skirt, $2,265, shoes, price upon request, and earrings, $360, Miu Miu, B.H., 310-247-2227. Balenciaga vintage sunglasses, stylist’s own. Kelsey: Prada top, $2,260, pants, $1,040, gloves, $675, brooch, $850, and bag, $2,845, Prada, B.H., 310-278-8661. Charlotte Olympia Sharon shoes, $765, Charlotte Olympia, B.H., 310-276-1111. Balenciaga vintage sunglasses, stylist’s own. p.236 Natalie: Bally sunflower jacket, $2,195, cashmere trousers, $2,295, and bone dress, $1,595, bally.com. Charlotte Olympia soft white Lillian heels, $1,095, Charlotte Olympia, B.H., 310-276-1111. Salvatore Ferragamo brown leather bucket bag, $2,100, 866-337-7242. Cartier rose gold Paris Nouvelle Vague ring, $9,550, cartier.us. Kelsey: Versace Viscose Cady Stretch

Pleated Cocktail dress, price upon request, and Compact Vergin wool flared short coat, $3,125, 888-721-7219. Roger Vivier Belle Vivier Trompette boots, $2,250, Roger Vivier, C.M., 207-437-6007. p.237 Kelsey: Dior wool top, $1,600, wool pants, $1,200, patent calfskin Crystal boots, price upon request, and Jungle necklace, $1,950, Dior, B.H., 310-859-4700. Natalie: Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane goat-hair cape, price upon request, and Punk mini dress, $3,290, Saint Laurent, N.Y., 212-980-2970. Stuart Weitzman Poppy boots, $485, Stuart Weitzman, B.H., 310-860-9600. p.238 Kelsey: Louis Vuitton Tonal Ribs knit, Leather Zipped blouse, embroidered pencil skirt, Exploration high boot and Serrure chain belt, price upon request, Louis Vuitton, B.H., 310-859-0457. Dolce & Gabbana black leather purse, $2,395, Dolce & Gabbana, B.H., 310-888-8701. Balenciaga vintage sunglasses, stylist’s own. Natalie: Balenciaga black-and-white tweed metal ring necklace top with belt buckle detail, $4,450, black-and-white tweed belt pocket pants, $1,995, white calfskin Bal58 topstitch shoulder bag, $3,450, black lambskin gloves with B pin, $2,965, black calfskin topstich kitten heels with crown brooch, $1,635, silver-tone and white pearl drop earrings in brass, $785, Balenciaga, W.H., 310-854-0557. Balenciaga vintage sunglasses, stylist’s own. p.240 Natalie: Hilfiger Collection polo, $260, and tweed pants, $450, Tommy Hilfiger, W.H., 310-247-1475. p.242 Natalie: Red Valentino wool dress, $895, redvalentino.com. p.243 Kelsey: Fendi camel hair gilet, $2,450, corduroy and shearling trousers, similar styles priced at $3,200, and suede gloves with fur trim, $1,150, Fendi, B.H., 310-276-8888. Natalie: Bottega Veneta Arizona Russet Pois print wool sweater, $1,400, and Multicolor Pois print wool skirt, $2,250, Bottega Veneta, B.H., 310-858-6533. We Love Colors orange tights, $13, welovecolors.com. p.245 Natalie: Prada coat, $7,390, brooch, $850, and white leather pumps, price upon request, prada.com. Christian Louboutin mini messenger bag, $1,795, Christian Louboutin, S.M., 424-354-4199. We Love Colors orange tights, $13, welovecolors.com. Kelsey: Peter Pilotto coat, $3,280, peter pilotto.com. Bulgari Diva earrings, $3,900, bulgari.com. MAKEUP Orlane Teint Absolu Treatment Foundation, $70, Orlane, Neiman Marcus, B.H., 310-550-5900; orlane.com. Make Up For Ever Step 1 Skin Equalizer primer, $36, Aqua Creamliner in Matte Black, $22, and Aqua Cream eyeshadow in Peach, $23, Make Up For Ever, B.H., 310-289-1758; makeupforever. com. Nars Satin Lip Pencil in Rikugien, $26, nars.com. •

C Magazine September 2015 is published 12 times/year by C Publishing, LLC. Editorial office: 1543 7th St., Santa Monica, CA 90401. Telephone 310-393-3800, Fax 310-393-3899, E-mail (editorial) edit@magazinec.com. Postmaster: Send address changes to C Magazine, P.O. Box 460248, Escondido, CA 92046. Subscriptions Telephone 800-775-3066 or E-mail cmagcustomerservice@pcspublink.com. Domestic rates are $19.95 for one year (12 issues); for orders outside U.S., add $15 postage. Single copies available at newsstands and other magazine outlets throughout the United States.

SEPTEMBER 2015 C 253


Capturing the Golden State of Mind

STORY BYLINE

C California

For his latest series, artist and Instagram celebrity Donald Robertson (aka Donald Drawbertson) looked to Slim Aarons’ beloved volume of photographs Once Upon a Time for inspiration, embellishing the Technicolor tableaus with gaffer’s tape, paint and collage for results that incorporate his trademark splashy brushstrokes. “It adds an extra dimension to otherwise flat illustrations,” says Robertson, whose foray into the style stakes began as the original creative director of MAC Cosmetics and evolved into such wide-ranging stints as creative development for Estée Lauder and the redesign of Glamour magazine. The mixed-media creations splice such well-known Aarons images as his 1960 landscape of the former George Newhall Estate in San Francisco (shown here), a residence modeled on Marie Antoinette’s Petit Trianon. “I did it in my new studio in Bel Air,” Robertson says. “It feels very Hollywood.” donaldrobertson.com.

C 254 SEPTEMBER 2015

WRITTEN BY MELISSA GOLDSTEIN

Donald Robertson x Slim Aarons’ USA Trianon


C California Style  

September 2015

C California Style  

September 2015