Trend Journal

TREND J O U R NA L Caroline Lowe FASM 245 Winter 2016

TA B L E C O N T E N T S OF Blue Is the Warmest Color 03 Bomber.com 05 Go Big or Go Home 07 Pajama Day 09

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Give ‘Em the Slip

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Caped Crusader 13 Velvet Touch 15 Fur-ever and Ever 17 Resources 20

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B LU E IS THE

January 20, 2016

WA R M E S T C O L O R

Blue is getting a makeover. No

longer relegated to the role of supporting character, blue is taking center stage for 2016. In particular, shades ranging from pale glacier to velvety cornflower have been featured prominently in many designers’ collections. If that were not evidence enough, Pantone has presciently named an icy blue named “Serenity” as one of its two colors of this year.

While sightings of pastels in spring collections is nothing new, merchants should take note of this hue’s permanence as we fade into fall.

While paired primarily with white and pale pinks for spring, designers are masterfully transitioning these blues for

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Sonia Rykiel

Dior

Versace

cooler weather.

The look is icily crisp layered with classic navy in tailored blouses and tweed skirt suits at Versace, and a serves up a modern twist on a classic pattern when paired with white and a warm grey at Altuzarra. We also see sky blue as an eye-catching foil for classic autumn shades like camel and burgundy at Dior and Rochas, giving these fall staples a fresh spin for a new year.

Altuzarra

Rochas

Especially notable are the numerous couplings of the new blue with leopard print, another prominent characteristic of the Pre-Fall collections, as seen at Rochas and Sonia Rykiel, among others.

Bold and fresh, these particular shades of blue will also be useful to retailers as an attention-grabbing color to draw their customers’ eyes.

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B OM B E R . c o m January 25, 2016

While the omnipresent motorcycle

jacket has reigned supreme for the past few seasons, it may be time for a new claimant to that throne: the bomber jacket. Evoking sporty, fun-loving cool, the bomber jacket has been appearing lately in seemingly endless permutations.

Fabric construction varies wildly from translucent organza at Armani Prive to sporty nylon at Thomas Maier. Shapes range from shrunken and close-cropped to billowy and oversize.

Valentino, Alexander Wang, Gucci, and Saint Laurent all piled on the embellishments, resulting in gorgeous, one-of-a-kind-feeling pieces dripping with embroidery and hardware.

Mother of Pearl, M Missoni, and Rag & Bone went the retro route, accenting classicly structured versions with stripe knit sleeves and banded collars. And at Diane Von Furstenburg, Carolina Herrera, and Vionnet were ladylike

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Dolce & Gabbana

iterations complete with origami sleeves shown layered over feminine silk blouses.

The wide range of options and styles means a wide range of price points, as well. This stands in contrast to the motorcycle jacket, which was often limited in price because of its composition (typically, leather.) The bomber, however, allows designers the option to use fabrics reaching from an inexpensive synthetic to the most luxuroious and embellished choices.

Alexander Wang

Valentino

Armani Prive

Thomas Maier

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G O BOIRGG O January 28, 2016

H OM E

What happens when you mix the off-kilter colors of Alessandro Michele’s “granny-chic” makeover at Gucci with the oversize of reminiscent of the grungerock icons of the 1990’s? These loud and proud checks. It’s the combination of these two features- scale and color- that makes these prints unique.

The autumn/winter season is no stranger to preppy schoolgirl plaids and cheery holiday tartans, but this fall’s version presents a distinct departure from the conventional. Standout colors like tourmaline, bright aqua, dried orange. and candy pink create an eclectic mix of shades that would not look out of place in Willy Wonka’s factory.

These colors are definitely bright, but they are much more complex than

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Fendi

a simple neon. Fendi’s burnt orange is just slightly off-kilter, evoking the rich, concentrated tone of a preserved orange peel. At Delpozo, aqua is layered with similar shades of yellow and bright blue for a super-concentrated effect. The muted green-blue hybrid jewel-tone seen at Carven, Miu Miu, and Coach is like a dust-covered stone, adding a layer of intrigue to an already rich color.

The oversize scale of these plaids, is

notable, too, redolent of both grunge- and granny-chic. This should be indicative to merchants of larger trends in both the reach of Michele’s influence and the importance of his Gucci revamp as well as the growing groundswell of nostalgia in the fashion world for the 1990’s.

Delpozo

Miu Miu

Carven

Coach

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PA JA MDAY A February 01, 2016

Slept through the alarm this morning? No problem- your pajamas will do just fine as a fashion statement. The floor-grazing pants and piped buttondown tops seen on the pre-fall runways prompted the question of whether or not designers were feeling more than a little sleepy.

The pajama trend allows designers a blank canvas with both top and bottom (and in the case of Vionnet, a chic jumpsuit) in gorgeous silks to showcase intricate prints, like the Asianinspired watercolor cranes at Valentino, climbing florals at Roberto Cavalli, and multicolored 60’s bandanas at Emilio Pucci.

While the pajama trend is not exactly new (similar looks appeared

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Roberto Cavalli

Valentino

John Paul Gaultier

in 2013 and 2008 seasons,) notable this time around is the completion of the look through accessories. Matching robes functioning as topcoats and smoking jackets appeared at Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy, Valentino, and Fendi, and long, skinny silk scarves in coordinating patterns added to the look at Cavalli and Pucci. Gaultier added pillbox hats for a louche, 50’s vibe, and Fendi upped the comfort factor with oversize

Givenchy

Fendi

fuzzy slippers. Pucci and Vionnet also experimented with half-and-half looks, where pajama tops were paired with skirts or trousers.

The takeaway behind this resurgence of the pajama trend is the far-reaching influence of athleisure and loungewear, as customers grow to expect and demand comfort in their ready-to-wear looks.

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G I V E T‘ H EEMS L I P February 23, 2016

In an ode to 90’s grunge, the fall runways were filled with ankle-grazing silhouettes with thin, slinky straps.

Rendered in an infinite array of fabrics and prints, this style presents each individual customer with a version to suit their particular aesthetic. Whether rich, coffee-colored lace at Lanvin or creamy cashmere at Pringle of Scotland; brightly-printed wools and silks at No. 21, Mulberry, and Victoria Beckham; sumptuous red silk at DKNY; subtle sequins and minimalistic tulle at Narcisco Rodriguez; or even a column of dramatic silver from Jil Sander, there are plenty of options.

Especially notable about this trend is the prevalence of layering seen in conjunction with it. At Bottega Veneta and Marissa Webb, chunky scarves lent dramatic contrast to an otherwise bare look. Mulberry and Dries Van

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Lanvin

Noten showed their versions layered atop button-downs; gauzy and sheer at Mulberry and crisply classic at Dries. Both Etro and Alberta Ferretti layered slips under oversize jackets, and Givenchy under a floral-patterened silk bomber.

Merchants should pay special notice to this aspect, as it presents an opportunity to sell a complete look rather than a single piece, as well as yet another hint that the 90’s are returning to the runway.

Mulberry

Pringle of Scotland

No. 21

Victoria Beckham

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CACPRU ESA D DE R February 26, 2016

There was, perhaps, no better way for an individual designer to present their aesthetic this season than with their own interpretation of a single silhouette: the cape. Appearing on practically every runway, the sheer variety, not just in pattern or fabrication, but in style and shape, was a testament to the creativity of the fashion world.

Iterations ranged from brightly colored geometric patterns at Ferragamo and classic checks and houndstooth in menswear-inspired hues at Ralph Lauren, to simple velvet with a twist front at Rick Owens and rich camel with black trim at Chloe. With seemingly endless variety, customers can choose a piece that works for their own personal style.

After a warm winter wreaked

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Ralph Lauren

havoc on retailers in 2015, buyers may be uneasy about outerwear. However, the novelty of the cape silhouette should provide a buffer against unpredictable weather, as customer desire to partake in the trend that played out so beautifully on the runway may override any temperature-based practicality.

Salvatorre Ferragamo

Marni

Prada

Delpozo

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V E LVTO ET UCH February 29, 2016 As cooler weather approaches, it’s natural to reach for soft, comfortable fabrics in which to cozy up. And on the Autumn runways, soft-to-the-touch velvet appeared in every form, from shoes and bags, to trims and detailing, to full two-piece ensembles. Unlike other trends, many designers featured multiple pieces featuring velvet throughout their collections, rather than incorporating one or two pieces.

At Alberta Ferretti, velvet anchored the otherwise gauzy and sheer fabrics without overpowering them. At Opening Ceremony, velvet’s natural sheen provided a futuristic feel to tracksuits ensembles with ruched detailing, without being too stiff. Rick Owens’s velvet

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Alberta Ferretti

capes in dove gray and pistachio seemed to shimmer with each step models took down the runway.

Retailers should be aware that the appeal of velvet is largely tactile, and customers may need to feel it in person in order to be tempted to buy. In-store displays should be easily accessible for handfeel, and online retailers should utilize constructive lighting techniques to aptly communicate the rich lushness of the fabric.

Fendi

Ralph Lauren

Opening Ceremony

3.1 Phillip Lim

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F U R- E V E R AND EVER March 02, 2016 The exuberance of Italian fashion was on full display as Fashion Week moved to Milan. Rich textures, intricate layers, quirky prints, and offbeat colors all served to trumpet Milan’s reinvention. Most striking, however, were the furs, resplendent in bright hues, wild patterns, and modern shapes.

At Blumarine, fur appeared in every product category, on shoes, bags, tops, dresses, and, of course, coats. Climbing floral vines with dyed red buds added character to traditional mink. At Versace, shaggy and multihued tufts were woven together to create volume without fur’s usual weight, and dip-dyed fox-

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Gucci

tails were layered onto bags. The most creative uses of fur came from Fendi, with coats and bags done in stripes, dots, and abstract patterns, in bright, eye-catching colors.

The prevalence of fur, especially in small accessories presents an opportunity for retailers, as they are immediately recognizable as trendy

Fendi

Versace

designer items. With a lower price point than a full fur coat, accessories can be added on to a larger sale to complete a look, or can serve as an entry point for an aspirational customer.

Blumarine

Derek Lam

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pet sounds 19

R E S O U RC E S www.businessoffashion.com/fashion-week/

www.keepitchic.com www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/

www.wgsn.com

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