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Save Room for Sonker

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Kitchen Flops

Kitchen Flops

And don’t forget the milk dip

By Matt Lardie

Look, there on the table! Is it a pie? Is it a cobbler? No, no it’s...sonker!

If your first reaction is, “Well, what the heck is a sonker?” don’t worry, you aren’t alone. Sonker is a dessert that hails from western North Carolina, with a provenance centered around Surry County (home of Mount Airy, the setting for The Andy Griffith Show’s fictional town of Mayberry).

The closest thing to a sonker would be a cobbler, but that’s where the agreement ends, and even then there are some who would chafe at that description. One family’s sonker might be made with peaches and have a pie-like crust floating atop the filling, while just down the road another household might make their sonker from sweet potatoes or apples with a batter-like topping that bakes into the filling. Many sonkers are served with a “milk dip,” a creamy, sweet sauce meant to be poured over the top of the dessert.

Sonker varies from hill to holler, from family to family, and the easiest way to learn more about sonker is to try some for yourself: Enter the Surry Sonker Trail, a journey to eight different locations across Surry County, all serving their own takes on this iconic dessert. You can try the sweet potato sonker at The Tilted Ladder in Pilot Mountain, served piping hot in a martini glass with milk dip alongside. Or venture up to Mount Airy for a stop at Miss Angel’s Heavenly Pies, where her ‘zonka (bring your own Long Island accent to match wits with Miss Angel) is made from fresh fruit grown on her own farm. Shelton Vineyards serves an upscale version of sonker at their vineyard restaurant, a perfect way to end a meal, especially when washed down with a glass of dessert wine. Rockford General Store offers their sonkers to travelers exploring this tiny, historic corner of Dobson; a recent version was a spiced peach sonker with fresh vanilla ice cream.

Rockford General Store

Anchored Bakery

Navigating the Sonker Trail

Traverse Surry County to find the sonker you like most — these eight stops on the Sonker Trail (sonkertrail.org) are sure to please. And don’t miss the annual Sonker Festival, more than 40 years strong and typically held in the fall. Anchored Bakery 139 Moore Avenue, Mount Airy anchoredbakerymtairy.com 336-705-3449

Prudence McCabe Confections 192 N. Main Street, Suite 400, Mount Airy prudencemccabeconfections.com 336-648-8160

Miss Angel's Heavenly Pies 153 N. Main Street, Mount Airy missangelsheavenlypiesinc.com 336-786-1537

The Tilted Ladder 105-A West Main Street, Pilot Mountain tiltedladder.org 336-444-4194

Rockford General Store 5174 Rockford Road, Dobson rockfordgeneralstore.com 336-374-5317

Southern On Main 102 East Main Street, Elkin southernonmain.com 336-258-2144

Skull Camp Smokehouse & Brewery 2000 N. Bridge Street, Elkin skullcampbrewing.com 336-258-8124

Harvest Grill at Shelton Vineyards 230 Cabernet Lane, Dobson sheltonvineyards.com 336-366-3590

Skull Camp Smokehouse and Brewery in Elkin has a rotating seasonal sonker (with ice cream!) to accompany their extensive menu of smoked meats, while a short distance away in the center of town, Southern on Main makes each of their blueberry or apple sonkers to order, guaranteeing a fresh-baked sonker experience every time.

Anchored Bakery and Prudence McCabe Confections, both in Mount Airy, round out the current roster of Surry Sonker Trail participants; Anchored Bakery’s individual-sized sonkers can be enjoyed in the bakery or taken home for later, and the sonkers at Prudence McCabe are based on owner and baker Sue Heckman’s grandmother’s family recipe.

Each version of sonker, whether served at a restaurant or pulled from a home oven, carries its own story and sense of place, for nowhere else in America can you plop yourself down at a table and ask, “What kind of sonker do you have today?” Try that in Tennessee or Texas and you’ll get funny looks, but ask about sonker in Surry County and they’ll know just what you mean. Perhaps it’s high time you took a (very delicious) ride on the Sonker Trail to discover one of North Carolina’s most unique desserts for yourself.

Matt Lardie is a Durham-based freelance food, wine and travel writer who has written for Eater, Our State Magazine, Wine Enthusiast, Robb Report and more. His last meal would be pepperoni pizza, mashed potatoes with too much butter, a gin martini and a slice of Key Lime Pie.

Tilted Ladder

carolinacountry.com/extras How many stops along the Sonker Trail can your sweetbuds handle?! Set your course on our website.

A Small Town Christmas Variety show, tree lighting Dec. 3–5, Banner Elk

December Events

MOUNTAINS

A Small Town Christmas Variety show, tree lighting Dec. 3–5, Banner Elk 828-898-8395 bannerelk.com Christmas Tree 5K One mile fun walk Dec. 4, West Jefferson 336-982-2232 christmastree5krun.com Christmas with Elvis Matt Lewis with orchestra Dec. 17, Boone 828-865-3000 apptheatre.org Carolina Christmas Show Broadway-style singing, dancing Dec. 17–19, Marion 855-222-2849 marlumor.com PIEDMONT

Exquisite Creatures Exhibit with three-dimensional displays Through March 2022, Raleigh 919-707-9950 naturalsciences.org/exquisitecreatures Meadow Lights Big light display, train ride Through Dec. 31, Benson info@meadowlights.com meadowlights.com Kersey Valley Christmas Christmas experience for all ages Various dates in December Archdale kerseyvalleychristmas.com Country Christmas Train Carols, wagon rides Various dates in December Denton 336-859-2755 dentonfarmpark.com Christmas at the Library Carolers, carriage rides Nov. 29–Dec. 23, Charlotte 704-401-3200 billygrahamlibrary.org Menorah Lighting Celebration at the bridge December 1, Waxhaw bit.ly/fb-menorah21 Hanukkah 8K Include 1k walk Dec. 5, Durham jewishforgood.org Sounder Classic Black Cinema Series Dec. 12, Charlotte ganttcenter.org Christmas with The Embers Beach music Dec. 16, Mount Airy 336-786-7998 surryarts.org

COAST

Festival of Lights Drive-through light show Various dates in December Dublin 910-866-5819 lumilvineyard.com Adult Prom and Dinner Live music, prizes Dec. 4, Windsor 919-452-1981 Planevents4U@yahoo.com Christmas Parade Dec. 4, Mount Olive 919-658-3113 moachamber.com Open House Live holiday music, refreshments Dec. 5, Windsor 252-794-3140 hopeplantation.org Bettman and Halpin Americana, folk, bluegrass Dec. 9, Oriental 252-617-2125 pamlicomusic.org Winterfest Flotilla Evening lights Dec. 11, Southport 910-457-7927 cityofsouthport.com Christmas Parade Dec. 10, Roseboro 910-525-4121 roseboronc.com

Hanukkah 8K Dec. 5, Durham

Know Before You Go Check information from the contacts listed for the most up-todate information. We strive for accuracy, but postponements and cancellations are possible.

carolinacountry.com/calendar See and submit more events online.

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Wilted Asian Wedge Salad

With ginger and carrot dressing Here’s betting you’ve never seen an Asian wedge salad (we haven’t either). But this adaptation of the traditional wedge makes a fitting accompaniment to this month’s steak dish. Prepare it ahead of time so you’ll have more time to spend with guests! 1 large head iceberg lettuce

Oil for pan 2 stalks celery, chopped 1 large carrot, peeled and chopped ½ cup chopped yellow onion 3 tablespoons finely chopped peeled ginger ½ cup oil (vegetable or peanut) ¼ cup rice wine vinegar 2 tablespoons low sodium tamari or soy sauce 1 tablespoon sugar 5 teaspoons ketchup

Zest of 1 small lemon ¼ teaspoon salt

Optional toppings for salad: sliced radishes, cucumbers, celery and red onion; snow peas (blanched and chopped); toasted sesame seeds; lightly sautéed baby corn and diced water chestnuts

For the salad, preheat skillet to medium-high.

Cut the lettuce into six wedges, removing core pieces. Lightly oil and sear cut sides of lettuce until slightly charred, about 1 minute per side. Place on a serving platter.

For the dressing, put all ingredients (celery through salt) into a blender and process until smooth. If needed, add 1 tablespoon of water at the time to thin. (Dressing should not be runny.)

Refrigerate up to a week.

To serve, scatter toppings around lettuce and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Add dressing.

Yield: 6 servings Unless otherwise noted, recipes on these pages are from Wendy Perry, a culinary adventurist and blogger, who chats about goodness around NC on her blog at WendysHomeEconomics.com.

Steak with Mongolian Beef Gravy A favorite at many Asian restaurants, we switched up Mongolian Beef with a little bit of “Southern” by making the sauce into … gravy! Use your favorite steak — filet, sirloin, or any cut suitable for grilling or broiling. Our preference is nicely marbled ribeyes. Serve whole or in bite-sized pieces with chopsticks for fun. Spoon over rice with a bit of fresh cilantro. 4 beef steaks of choice 3 cups low-sodium beef broth, divided 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2–3 tablespoons cooking oil 2 tablespoons minced garlic or garlic paste 2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger ½ cup low sodium tamari or soy sauce ¼ cup dark brown sugar 3 bunches green onions, trimmed and sliced diagonally in 1½-inch pieces 3 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted 4 cups cooked jasmine rice ½ cup cilantro, chopped

Broil, grill or sear steaks on stovetop to desired doneness.

For the gravy, whisk ½ cup of broth with cornstarch to make a slurry. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook about 30 seconds to season the oil. Stir to keep from burning.

Add remaining broth and tamari or soy sauce. Whisk in sugar until dissolved. Bring to a slow boil. Cut back to medium low and simmer 3–4 minutes. As the mixture thickens, add slurry and whisk. Let cook several minutes to thicken into gravy. Stir in onions the last 1–2 minutes until they “wilt.”

Combine rice and cilantro. Serve steak over rice and spoon on gravy. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds. Garnish with a few chopped green onions if desired.

Ambrosia Shortcakes Many of us will recognize this southern Christmas dish. Our grandmothers made it and their mamas did too, served in a pretty glass bowl. We turned this fruity favorite into a fun little dessert to enjoy anytime. Can be made a day ahead. 1 small ripe pineapple, peeled and cut into small pieces

Zest of an orange 3 oranges (we used naval and blood oranges) 3 clementines 1 jar (10 ounces) sliced maraschino cherries, drained 1 cup white seedless grapes, sliced 1 bag (5 ounces) glazed pecans, chopped 1 bag (7 ounces) unsweetened coconut, divided 2 pomegranates 1 star fruit (carambola), optional 2 packages (8 count) original crescent rolls 3 tablespoons cinnamon sugar 1 pint whipping cream, whipped Reserved coconut and pomegranate arils Combine pineapple, zest, oranges, clementines, cherries, grapes, pecans, most of the coconut and arils from one pomegranate. Garnish with sliced star fruit. This is the ambrosia.

For the shortcakes, preheat oven per instructions. Unroll and tear each roll into 2 pieces. Place on baking pan and dust with cinnamon sugar. Bake about 6–7 minutes. Cool on wire rack. Store in airtight container for up to a week.

To serve, place one piece of shortcake on a plate. Spoon on ambrosia. Top with a second piece. Add a dollop of whipped cream and garnish with rest of coconut and pomegranate arils.

Yield: Makes 16 shortcakes

carolinacountry.com/recipes We take food seriously. Search more than 1,000 recipes by name or ingredient, with a new recipe featured every week!

From Your Kitchen

Nantucket Cranberry Pie No rolling, no whipping, no peeling — this is our kind of pie — quick, simple and praiseworthy! While not overly sweet thanks to the tart berries, this pie is reminiscent of a French clafoutis: a dessert made with fresh fruit and covered with a thick batter. 2 cups fresh cranberries, chopped ½ cup walnuts, chopped ½ cup brown sugar 2 eggs ¾ butter, melted and cooled 1 cup sugar 1 cup flour ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon almond extract Whipped topping or ice cream, optional

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 10-inch pie pan.

Chop cranberries and walnuts. Mix with brown sugar and place mixture in the buttered pie pan.

In a separate bowl, combine eggs, butter, sugar, flour, salt and almond extract. Stir until batter is smooth and spoon it over the cranberry/walnut mixture.

Bake for 40 minutes or until tester comes out clean. Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream when cooled.

Recipe courtesy of Leslie Mahan of Wake Forest

Fruit Cake Cookies This year, we’ve been taking a look back at some old favorites from our recipe archive. For December, check out “Fruit Cake Cookies” from 1970. See this recipe and more at carolinacountry.com/kitchencorner. Send Us Your Recipes

Contributors whose recipes are published will receive $25. We retain reprint rights for all submissions. Recipes submitted are not necessarily entirely original. Include your name, address, phone number (for questions), and the name of your electric cooperative. Mail to: Carolina Country Kitchen, 3400 Sumner Blvd., Raleigh, NC, 27616. Or submit your recipe online at: carolinacountry.com/myrecipe.

November winner

The November “Where Is This” photo by South River EMC member Dale Jarvis features the iconic red barn at Rocky Creek Farm. Seems to be a few Rocky Creek Farms across the state, but this one is located on NC Hwy 109 South near Mount Gilead, and close to Troy, in the small community of Robedo. West Montgomery County Middle School sets right next door. Brittany Hutchison reports that she and her family have leased the barn for more than four years and own the horses that live there. The property is more than 100 years old. She adds, “Every year we decorate it with Christmas lights and decorations, so make sure you drive by this December.” Reader Victoria Higdon says that the farm is also home “to an awesome donkey!” The winning entry chosen at random from all correct submissions came from Mary Metcalf of Forest City, a Rutherford EMC member.

Have a roadside gem you’d like to share? Submit a photo, plus a brief description and general location information, at carolinacountry.com/where.

where

in Carolina Country is this ?

Send your answer by December 6, with your name, address and the name of your electric cooperative.

Online: carolinacountry.com/where By mail: Where in Carolina Country? 3400 Sumner Blvd. Raleigh, NC 27616 Multiple entries from the same person will be disqualified. The winner, chosen at random and announced in our January issue, will receive $25.

November

carolinaartist

Daniel Wall Fine Art First Snow Impression

By Daniel Wall

Daniel Wall works in a style of his own creation: intense impressionism, as he calls it, although others have deemed it “extreme impressionism.” He’s been working in the style for more than 30 years, first developing it in college by studying masters like Vincent Van Gogh and Claude Monet. “Monet used a small brush for texture,” he says. “Instead of a brush, I use a palette knife.” As a result, the full-time painter’s oil paintings are full of heavy texture and bold strokes of color. Daniel was born in China, has studied art in Italy, and much of his work is inspired by locations around the world he’s visited, although a move to Raleigh in 2006 provided a new source of inspiration. “Our state is beautiful, from east to west,” he says.

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