Capitol Cuisine

by Celeste McCall

Hell’s Kitchen might be the hottest culinary ticket in town. Dining companion Peter and I certainly had a hot time at Gordon Ramsay Hell’s Kitchen, 652 Wharf St. SW.

Having made a splashy debut this past winter, Hell’s Kitchen was originally open for dinner only. Now Hell’s serves lunch. So, enroute to our Waterside Fitness & Swim Club, we stopped by for midday sustenance. This place is gorgeous, just short of glitzy. Seating about 450 guests, Hell’s Kitchen is sprawled over two levels overlooking the Washington Channel.

During our brief wait in the comfy downstairs lounge, we were greeted by a life-size video of Ramsay in ames. Upstairs, we were seated alongside the gleaming display kitchen. Ramsay’s fire-and-brimstone theme extends to smoky-hued napkins and grey “share” plates. Pitchfork motifs abound. Designing the 14,800-square-foot restaurant was New Yorkbased Je rey Beers International.

Heading the kitchen is chef Shawn Hamada, who turns out Hell’s Kitchen’s signature beef Wellington and lobster risotto, plus luncheon fare like avocado toast, hell re hot wings, golden beet salad, burgers, sandwiches and even pizzas.

Sipping an excellent New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, I chuckled over the devilish names of the cocktail: Fear & Loathing, The Pitchfork, Smoke on the Water. So, a few days later we brought friends with us to sample them. The Pitchfork is a potent concoction of dual cask bourbon and Gifford pamplemousse (grapefruit) liquor and other ingredients. adorned with a tiny pitchfork. The Duchess is an exotic ri on gin-and-tonic, made with Empress 1908 gin and Fever Tree elder ower, garnished with a rosemary sprig. Notes from Gordon is made with Plymouth gin, green tea, and lemon grass. The drink’s crowning glory is a message on the back of a miniUnion Jack: “Our sh is so raw he’s still nding Nemo.”

Back to our earlier lunch: I settled for the short rib grilled cheese sandwich, big enough to feed two. The grilled bread enveloped meltin-your mouth shredded beef and wonderfully gooey melted cheddar. Divine. The fries, which I usually eschew, were crisp and crunchy. Peter’s Caesar salad was among the tastiest renditions I’ve ever experienced, napped with plenty of pungent dressing and crowned with homemade garlic croutons and parmesan chips. The trio of chilled huge shrimp cost extra but were worth it.

All too often, when a restaurant arrives overly hyped, diners are disappointed. That was not the case here; our experience exceeded expectations. Hell’s Kitchen prices are high but not outrageous; lunch for two with one glass of wine came to $77, before tip. Service, rendered by Melinda and others, was beyond exemplary. We will return, with reinforcements, if only to sample the beef Wellington and famous sticky tof- fee pudding. Hell’s Kitchen is open daily; for exact hours and more information visit www.gordanramsayrestaurants.com.

Yet More Pizza...

We nally got around to checking out Della Barba Pizza, 1382 East Capitol NE. (Long time Hill neighbors—including us—remember the site’s earlier occupant: Al’s Gourmet Pizza.) Della Barba’s proprietor is Joey Barba, who is of Italian descent. His family’s original name was Della Barbara. The pizzeria opened back in October for carryout, adding a half dozen tables and chairs earlier this year.

Della Barba o ers four styles of pizza crust: New York “thin,” Nonna (Italian for Grandma) “homestyle,” Detroit “thickest,” Chicago “deep dish.” We wanted the thin New York style, but it only came in large, so we settled for the smaller Nonna. We’re glad we did. The crust was pu y, and slightly singed on the edges.

Once you’ve selected your style, which already comes with tomato sauce and mozzarella, add toppings as desired. We settled on homemade Italian sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms and olives.

Della Barba also o ers salads and cookies. Joey Barba plans to eventually add homemade ice cream and maybe outdoor seating. So far, no plans for alcohol. “We’re taking it slowly,” Barba said.

Our carryout pizza was about $40. For now, Della Barba is open for dinner only. For more information visit www.dellabarbapizza.com.

Breakfast Cheer

Good news for breakfast fans: Any Day Now, the highly anticipated café from noted D.C. chef/restauranteur Tim Ma, arrived last month at 21 I St. SE, near the Navy Yard. You’ll nd it tucked in the foot of the snazzy Novel South Capitol apartment complex, former home of Erik Bruner Yang’s ABC Pony.

Chef Ma, by the way, also operates the popular Chinese American Lucky Danger in Arlington. His 75-seat Any Day Now specializes in breakfast and luncheon fare, showcasing scallion pancake sandwiches stacked with eggs and American cheese, homemade maple-sage sausage, cured bacon, chickenand-waffles, fermented kimchi, all served with garlic-chili sauce. Expect dinner service Any Day Now. For updates visit www. anydaynowdc.com.

Coming soon?

Look for a Sticky Rice spino at 802 13th St. NE—just o H Street in the Atlas District-where DC Diner used to be. The future eatery will reportedly serve Thai and Vietnamese cuisine. Stay tuned.

Market Watch

While browsing the Eastern Market weekend farmers line in front of the Rumsey Aquatic Center, we sampled jerk chicken tacos at Pretty Delicious Cuisine. Billed as “always fresh, never frozen,” the zesty dishes are created by Kada Mc, who operates the stand with her nephew Tony. The chicken tacos were delicious, delivering just the right about of repower. Other menu options include jerk wings, rice bowls, mac-and-cheese and several kinds of iced tea. ◆

7/1

7/6 - Ebban and Ephraim Dorsey

7/7 - Lionel Lyles

7/8 - Maija Rejman and Rose Moraes

7/13 - The Radiohead Jazz Project

7/14 - Cindy Moses

7/15 - Jeff Weintraub

7/20 - Tom Saputo

7/21 - Kevin Cordt

7/22 - Craig Gildner

7/23 - Cap Lab Band

7/27 - Madeline Miller

7/28 - Aaron Myers

7/29 - Julian Berkowitz