6 minute read

Capitol Cuisine by Celeste McCall

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In Washington’s Buzzard Point neighborhood, fi sh maestro Greg Casten has unveiled The Point, a handsome,12,500 square-foot seafood emporium.

As Washington gradually returns to normal, new restaurants are arriving on Capitol Hill and nearby. In the upand-coming Buzzard Point neighborhood, Washington seafood maestro Greg Casten has unveiled The Point, a sprawling seafood emporium at 2100 Second St. SW.

Why Buzzard Point? “We’re looking at where the Potomac and the Anacostia meet,” he responded, as we munched crunchy Boardwalk fries at his spacious new restaurant.

Casten, 58, is also founder and owner of ProFish (seafood purveyors), Ivy City Smokehouse and Tavern, Tony & Joe’s Seafood Place and Nick’s Riverside Grill (both on the Georgetown waterfront).

Designed by Allison Cooke of Core Architecture + Design, the 12,500-square-foot restaurant is gorgeous. The soaring, 22-foot ceiling is zig-zagged with giant neon crustaceans, sweeping booths and lots of plants. In the ladies room, yellow shoe soles hover overhead.

Executive chef Benjamin Lambert (who cooked at Restaurant Nora), creates re-grilled seafood clam beignets, whole branzino and “turf” dishes involving duck and chicken. Among vegetarian options is re-roasted cauli ower shawarma.

Perusing the smaller luncheon menu, Peter and I sat outside on the spacious terrace, overlooking the Yacht Club and passing helicopters. Five re pits will ward o chilly weather.

Crab a cionado Peter eyed the jumbo crab cake sandwich, listed at “market price.” Crabs are extremely expensive this year, Casten explained. “The highest in my 31 years in the business.” ProFish pays $40 per pound for jumbos. “We absorb some of the price,” Casten said.

At The Point, the crab cake sandwich was $26, and Peter went for it. Nestled in a brioche bun with the xings, the jumbo cakes were avorful, moist and ller-free, practically falling apart. I considered the crispy calamari, but decided on mahi mahi tostados. Good choice; rm white sh chunks were arranged atop a crisp tortilla, napped with cabbage, tomatillo-avocado salsa and radish wedges. Ideal for sharing, the $26 Ivy City Smoked Fish board is loaded with salmon, rainbow trout, white sh salad and other goodies.

Lunch for two—including my glass of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc—came to $58 before tax. Service, provided by Franny, was excellent. The Point is open daily; call 202-948-2522 or visit www.thepointdc.com.

And, coming soon to Buzzard Point: La Vie (a spino of the District Wharf’s La Vie), around the corner from The Point. For updates visit www.lavie-dc.com

CAPITOL CUISINE

article and photos by Celeste McCall

Squared Away

In the Navy Yard near Nationals Park, Emmy Squared Pizza debuted recently at 1300 Fourth St. SE. As the moniker indicates, this sprightly pie palace serves square, Detroit-style pizza. Made with King Arthur organic our, crusts are crowned with “red,” including tomato sauce, pepperoni, house-made vodka sauce and more.

Emmy’s “white” toppings—sans tomatoes— might include smoked Gouda, banana peppers or—a nod to the South—Nashville hot chicken with Alabama white sauce. You can also nd burgers, cheesy garlic sticks, eggplant parmesan. Full bar. A nationwide chain, Emmy Squared operates another local o shoot in Shaw.

Navy Yard Emmy’s is open Thursday through Sunday evenings. For more information call 202-2902810 or visit www.emmysquaredpizza.com.

Wine About it

Another Navy Yard newcomer is Maxwell Park, a lively wine bar at 1346 Fourth St. SE. (There’s another location in Shaw.) The mind-boggling list o ers four sizes: a 2.5 ounce taste, a ve-ounce glass, a half or full bottle. Complementing the fruit of the vine are victuals including mixed nuts, marinated olives, smoked trout dip, grilled tru ed pimento cheese. Navy Yard Maxwell Park is open nightly. For exact hours call 202-792-9522 or visit www. maxwellparkdc.com.

Viva Espana!

On Barracks Row, Bodegon Spanish Tapas—a spino of Georgetown’s Bodega—has arrived at 515 Eighth St. SE. You’d never recognize the space (formerly Medium Rare), transformed into a vision of Madrid or Barcelona. Bull ghter motifs, colorful ce-

WINE. CELEBRATING 70 YEARS on Capitol Hill serving our community with the BEER. country’s best selection of fine wines, spirits, and beer. SPIRITS.

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AUGUST MIXED CASE SPECIAL!

6 Summer Reds for Grilling and Chilling, 4 Crisp and Delicious Whites, 1 Dry and Floral Rosé, 1 Sparkling Red to pair with Charcuterie and Pizza. Retail Price: $387.88 | Sale Price: $258.88 | Mixed Case Club Price: $217.99 44% off Retail!!

VINTAGE WINE RETAIL SALE

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2017 Paladin Raboso Fiore Italian Dry Sparkling Red $16.99 $11.99

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300 MASS AVE. NE WASHINGTON, DC 20002

VISIT CELLAR.COM CALL 202.543.9300 ramic plates and paintings line white brick walls. To absorb the Iberian ambience, Peter and I brunched inside.

We sipped Spanish cava rose and a $5 mimosa concocted with house sparkling wine and fresh orange juice. We began our repast with a bowl of Andalusian gazpacho, refreshing on a hot day. Our excellent server, Lilly, anticipated our needs and provided an extra soup spoon for sharing.

Pitted dates were swathed with bacon and deep fried—divine finger food. Crisp-fried calamari rings were fork tender—fresh, not frozen—Lilly explained. “So they are not rubbery.” More tasty tapas arrived: grilled smoked chorizo tidbits. Other options include a plate with jamon Serrano (Spanish ham), manchego cheese, bread and almonds, plus paellas, grilled meats, seafoods and vegetables. For more information call 202-560-5061 or visit www.bodegondc.com.

And, down the street at 713 Eighth St. SE, Crazy Aunt Helen’s has arrived. Watch for details; or visit www.crazyaunthelens.com.

At Barracks Row’s recent arrival Bodegon, a specialty is the plate of Serrano (Spanish) ham, Manchego cheese, bread and almonds. Summer Restaruant Week Aug 9-15

Sponsored by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington, the promotion offers three-course lunches for $22 and three-course dinners for $35. The menus will also be available for carryout or delivery. For lists of participating restaurants and more information visit www.ramw.org/restaurantweek

Coming soon

...is a gluten-free bakery, Sweet Smiles Bakery & Patisserie, 1238 Pennsylvania Ave. SE. u

Hatoba Hot Dogs

Chowing down on a hot dog in a Japanese restaurant? At Hatoba (Japanese for “dock”), we explored the kitchen’s western twist on Japanese cuisine. I zeroed in on the yakisoba—wieners slathered with noodles, pickled ginger and Kewpie mayo, nestled in a potato bun. I could have devoured two of them. Among other options are gyoza burgers, ramen, curried fries. Peter chose the crab yakisoba, a tasty stack of noodles, cabbage, onions and bean sprouts but not enough crab. Potent potables encompass canned Coppola wines and chilled (or hot) sakes. Dinner for two with a drink apiece came to $44 before tip. Service was excellent but almost too swift. Located at 300 Tingey St. SE, Hatoba is open daily; for exact hours call 202-488-4800 or visit www. hatobadc.com.

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