Best of Cape Town Central City Guide 2015

Your free copy

300 places to

SEE | SHOP | EAT | PLAY | STAY

WE celebrate 15 years

co nt e n ts 05 SEE

43 PLAY

19 SHOP

51 STAY

31 EAT

59 ESSENTIALS

museums, sights, public spaces, galleries books, crafts, fashion, gifts, décor

I recently celebrated

hotels, b&bs, backpackers Getting around, emergencies, resources

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P stands for the closest parking facility as per the parking map on page 62.

Sarah Woods/HSMimages.co.za, iStock by Getty COVER: Shavan Rahim, Shaen Adey, Gallo Images, Supplied

my seventh wedding anniversary.

And instead of heading off to the winelands for a lazy lunch or taking a weekend break away from town, my other half and I decided to spend the day in the Central City.

Because it’s not often that you give yourself the gift of time to just explore and experience to your heart’s content. And this is exactly what we did: breakfast and coffee at The House of Machines, wandering up Bree Street, popping into hip shops, meandering down Long Street and browsing the boutiques and Antique Arcade. And finally stopping at Chef’s Warehouse for lunch and people-watching.

All in all it was a fabulous day – and one I won’t wait another year to repeat.

Make the Central City your own with this guide to everything it has to offer.

Happy exploring!

restaurants, cafés, coffee bars, markets, bakeries

pubs, clubs, film, theatre, dance

To obtain a copy of this magazine, contact Aziza Patandin at CCID on aziza@capetowncid.co.za or 021 419 1881

For a complete list of shops and services in the Central City, visit www.capetowncid.co.za/our-cbd/

Editorial Editor Lisa van Aswegen Art director Sean Robertson Listings writer James Bainbridge Copy editor Vanessa Vineall Junior project manager Chanelle Livesey Repro New Media Repro Printed by CTP Printers Advertising Senior sales executive Zak Swartz +27 (0)21 417 5151 Sales executive Anel du Plooy +27 (0)21 417 5166 Advertising coordinator Michelle Koetenberg

PRODUCTION GM: production & Operations Lucrezia Wolfaardt Production manager Shirley Quinlan Senior production coordinator Pierre Samuel Traffic Lesley Green Publishing GM: Contracts Andrew Nunneley Account director Jason Curtis Group creative director Crispian Brown Head of content Brendan Cooper

Telephone +27 (0)21 417 1111 E-mail info@newmediapub.co.za www.newmediapub.co.za Executive Directors Managing director Bridget McCarney Group content director Irna van Zyl Group commercial director John Psillos

Published by New Media New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 PO Box 440, Green Point, 8051

disclaimer New Media Publishing takes the utmost care to ensure all information in this magazine is correct at the time of going to print. There are times, however, that the information in this publication differs due to changes beyond our control. The views expressed in the articles and reviews included in this publication are the opinions of the authors and are not intended as representations made on behalf of NMP. While all precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of information, neither the publisher, nor the editor, nor New Media Publishing, can be held liable for any inaccuracies, injury or damages that may arise.

SAFE | CLEAN | CARING | OPEN FOR BUSINESS

WELCOME TO THE CAPE TOWN CENTRAL CITY The Cape Town Central City Improvement District (CCID) celebrates its 15th year in operation in 2015 and, therefore, as the producers of this popular guide that helps you to discover our downtown, this is a very special edition for us.

Our non-profit organisation is the result of a private-public partnership formed in 2000 by property owners within a defined geographical area (see the map on pg 62-63) to provide top-up services over and above those provided by our partners in the CBD, namely the City of Cape Town and the South African Police Service (SAPS).

With our vision to be “safe, clean, caring and open for business”, the CCID’s operation falls into four departments – Safety & Security, Urban Management, Communications & Marketing and Social Development – backed by a 600-strong workforce on the ground.

In line with what we do, we also run a variety of campaigns, particularly aimed at engaging with the public on the street, and we’d like to make you aware of them too: The “GIVE RESPONSIBLY” campaign, developed in 2008 by our Social Development department asks that you consider giving a “hand up rather than a hand out” to people begging on the street.

When you do give a handout, you perpetuate the problems that “lock” these individuals onto a life on the streets – no matter how sympathetic you may feel to their plight. This can often lead to aggressive begging, and compromise your feeling safe on our streets. Rather support the

NGOs that are involved in skills development and rehabilitation. To make this as easy as possible for you, we have a dedicated SMS donation line (see opposite for details).

Our “STASH IT, DON’T FLASH IT” campaign encourages you to keep your valuables out of sight when you park your car, and keep your personal items safely on you when you walk around or enjoy our streets.

These campaigns speak to the same commonsense attitude anyone would take in a busy CBD, and will ensure that you enjoy ours to the full potential of what it has to offer. Please remember that what you’ll find here in the guide is just a taste of what’s on offer: for more venues to explore, visit the “Explore our CBD” section on our website, www.capetowncid.co.za.

Enjoy the Cape Town Central City and our 2015 guide.

Tasso Evangelinos Chief Operating Officer, CCID

Seen above: Tasso Evangelinos (right) with one of the CCID’s Public Safety Officers.

CONTACT US: +27 21 419 1881 | info@capetowncid.co.za | visit www.capetowncid.co.za

THE CCID PROVIDES THE FOLLOWING TOP-UP SERVICES SAFETY & SECURITY

The CCID’s Safety & Security department deploys 230 Public Safety Officers 24/7 from our own Control Centre, which works closely with the SAPS and the City’s law enforcement agencies.

The control centre is available at all times via the CCID hotline number (082 415 7127). We provide complementary services towards: A visible security presence • Reaction units • Monitoring of traffic infringements • ATM fraud detection • Regulation of informal trading • Public assistance

URBAN MANAGEMENT

The CCID’s Urban Management team monitors the spaces “inbetween” the buildings of the CBD, from the roads and sidewalks to public squares. There are 60 dedicated cleaners from a professional service provider working around the clock to keep the Central City neat and tidy. In turn, a 300-strong force of semi-skilled cleaners and a skilled road maintenance team also operate in the CBD via a job creation programme conducted in partnership with local NGO Straatwerk.

SOCIAL DEVELOPMENT

The CCID’s Social Development team – headed up by a registered social worker supported by two registered auxiliary social workers and one experienced field worker monitor – assists the homeless and indigent on the streets of the CBD. Working closely with more than 20 NGOs and medical facilities that service the area and provide for both adults and children, the team also promotes public awareness through the CCID’s GIVE RESPONSIBLY campaign.

COMMUNICATIONS & MARKETING

The CCID’s Communication & Marketing Department supports the three operational divisions of the organisation in terms of promoting the work we do, as well as promoting investment in the Central City. To this end it annually produces a wide range of publications, and runs a number of public awareness campaigns. It communicates across all platforms, from hard copy to online and including social media.

For more on the

“GIVE RESPONSIBLY”campaign, visit giveresponsibly.co.za or to make a donation of R10 SMS “GIVE” to 38088 Keep this number with you while you are anywhere within the Cape Town CBD:

Security Number

STAY SAFE ON OUR STREETS GIVE RESPONSIBLY

CCID 24hr HOTLINE 082 415 7127

Facebook.com/CapeTownCCID |

@CapeTownCID

SEE

“Untitled3” by dion cupido

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MY central CITY

dion Cupido With a background in urban graffiti art, up-and-coming artist Dion Cupido is making waves – Beyoncé even snapped up one of his works recently.

His African-Pop Art portraits of female figures are a current hit theme. Spray paint splatters, lettering and varied use of materials are significant in his paintings. For more of his work, visit Worldart (see page 19).

1. Bean There and 2. Deluxe Coffeeworks make the best coffee around.

3. I get my paint at Shelflife, and they have a R70 000 pair of takkies!

4. Café Mozart makes a mean prego steak sandwich. 5. The Book Lounge is the coolest bookshop in town. 6. Long Street is party central. 7. Worldart, of course, as that’s where you can buy my art.

I love the Central City because… of the people, the food and all its diversity.

Cape Town has it all, really.

6 Best of Cape Town Central City 2015

Jade Maxwell-Newton, Supplied, Worldart

MY FAVOURITE SPOTS

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Museums Cape Town Holocaust Centre 88 Hatfield Street, 021 462 5553, www.holocaust.org.za P10 In the same complex as the South African Jewish Museum, Africa’s first Holocaust Centre recalls the darkest episode of 20th century history, in which the Nazis killed six million Jews and many others. The museum-cummemorial mixes interpretive panels and archival photos with recreated environments and multimedia displays.

District Six Homecoming Centre 15 Buitenkant Street, 021 466 7200, www.districtsix.co.za P32 Continuing the themes of the nearby District Six Museum, this cultural centre in the old Sacks Futeran textile warehouse hosts changing exhibitions on local subjects. On the last Thursday of the month, musicians and poets perform here at the ‘tafel conversation’ event.

District Six Museum 25A Buitenkant Street, 021 466 7200, www.districtsix.co.za P32 The area roughly between the Central City and Woodstock, previously known as District Six, was forcibly depopulated and flattened under the Group Areas Act, an apartheid law that forbade interracial neighbourhoods.

This museum evokes the old suburb, its atmosphere, culture and characters – most uprooted to the Cape Flats.

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Iziko Bo-Kaap Museum 71 Wale Street, 021 481 3938, www.iziko.org.za P1 The Bo-Kaap area, with its colourful houses, steep cobbled streets and mosques, is the traditional home of Cape Town’s Muslim community. Occupying one of the neighbourhood’s oldest houses, the museum explains the local culture and illustrates the lifestyle of a 19th century Muslim family.

Iziko Koopmans-De Wet House 35 Strand Street, 021 481 3935, www.iziko.org.za P13 This refined Neoclassical abode offers a glimpse of how the upper echelons lived in late 18th century Cape Town. You can tour several rooms on two floors, all scattered with some of South Africa’s finest Cape furniture and silver, plus a priceless ceramic collection.

Iziko Planetarium 25 Queen Victoria Street, 021 481 3900, www.iziko.org.za P10 At the much-loved planetarium, the so-called Minolta star machine and multiple projectors beam onto the domed ceiling, creating the dreamy

Cape Town Tourism

Iziko Bertram House Hiddingh Campus, Orange Street, 021 481 3972, www.iziko.org.za P10 Built in 1839, Bertram House is the only surviving example of the English Georgian-style brick residences that were once common in Cape Town.

The opulent interiors give an insight into the life of a prosperous colonial family, with details such as a card table set for a game in the study.

Castle of Good Hope see p12

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feeling of gazing upwards from the camp fire. Shows for teenagers and adults take place daily, while Davy Dragon entertains five- to 10-year-old astronomers at weekends.

Iziko Rust en Vreugd

1679, and it confined 9 000 slaves, convicts and mentally ill people over the following century. Interpretive panels, films, audio, artefacts and maps evoke the era when slaves outnumbered colonists at the Cape.

78 Buitenkant Street, Iziko Social History 021 481 3903, Centre high17 Church Square, www.iziko.org.za P32 tech to 021 461 3375, Built for a high-ranking ur Downloa d www.iziko.org.za P22 Dutch East India A Walkin g This museum in the Company (VOC) Central C Tour of a free ap ape Town, recently renovated official, this grand p develop ed Cape Tow National Mutual pile is regarded as n Tourism by , fr iTunes. A Building, designed the finest surviving lternative om ly , v isit voice

by Herbert Baker, 18th century Cape ma for more p.me houses a wide-ranging Dutch townhouse. apps. anthropological collection.

With its period garden Exhibits include indigenous and art exhibitions, the cultural material from across three-storey building certainly southern Africa, colonial artefacts lives up to its name (which means from the Cape, maritime items, ‘rest and joy’ in Dutch). ceramics, furniture, coins and textiles.

Iziko Slave Lodge

Cnr Adderley and Wale Streets, 021 467 7229, www.iziko.org.za P11 The Dutch East India Company (VOC) built the Slave Lodge in

Iziko South African Museum 25 Queen Victoria Street, 021 481 3800, www.iziko.org.za P10

8 Best of Cape Town Central City 2015

Iziko Museums

Iziko Slave Lodge

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Established in 1825 and moved to its current location in the Company’s Garden in 1897, this museum has over 1.5 million items of natural and social historical interest. Exhibits including 700-million-year-old fossils highlight the planet’s biological and cultural diversity, past and present.

Iziko William Fehr Collection Cnr Buitenkant and Darling Streets, 021 467 7205, www.iziko.org.za P32 This collection of 17th to 19th century furniture and oil paintings, assembled by late businessman William Fehr and acquired by the South African government in 1964, is housed in the Castle of Good Hope. Fehr’s collection of watercolours, prints and drawings is on display at Rust en Vreugd.

Museum of Gems & Jewellery Cnr Loop and Hout Streets, 021 422 0148, www.prinsandprins. com P5 Run by Prins & Prins jewellers, this new museum tells the story of a ‘girl’s best friend’, from when diamonds began forming three billion years ago onwards. Exhibits cover notable South African finds, including the Cullinan Diamond, the largest ever unearthed, and Stone Age jewellery.

Gallo Images

South African Jewish Museum 88 Hatfield Street, 021 465 1546, www.sajewishmuseum.co.za P10 South Africa’s Jewish community has long been at the forefront of the country’s intellectual life, thanks to the likes of novelist Nadine Gordimer and painter Irma Stern. This museum covers the Jewish experience here from the 19th century immigrants onwards, with a good mix of artefacts and technology.

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IN L IVIN G CO LOUR On 2 January every year, the Cape Town Minstrel troupes parade from the Bo-Kaap down Wale Street in bright garb, singing their iconic and catchy songs. This tradition goes back to the days of slavery, when the day after New Year (so-called tweede nuwejaar) was a holiday. //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

South African Missionary Meeting House Museum 40 Long Street, 021 423 6755 www.facebook.com/zagmuseum P7 This 19th century slave church has exhibits covering both missionary history and the building itself – the country’s oldest missionary building, and third oldest church preserved in its original form. Look out for the attractive marbled teak columns and florally decorated organ.

Places of worship Auwal Masjid 39 Dorp Street, 082 551 7324, www.auwalmasjid.co.za P11 South Africa’s oldest mosque was established in 1794 by Tuan Guru, the Indonesian prince and imam who is regarded as the father of Islam here. The mosque is a symbol of the Cape Muslim struggle for the recognition of Islam and their right to practise the religion.

Central Methodist Mission Cnr Longmarket and Burg Streets, 021 422 2744, www.cmm.org.za P11 Methodism came to South Africa with British troops stationed in the Cape colony and this church opened in 1879.

Its Gothic Revival interior features stained-glass windows, a large organ filling an arch and marble plaques remembering missionaries, soldiers and colonial characters.

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Iziko Rust en Vreugd see p8

Die Groote Kerk

Palm Tree Mosque

Adderley Street, 021 422 0569, www.grootekerk.org.za P11 This venerable old church with its beautiful interior was the first Christian place of worship erected in the Cape, soon after the Dutch arrived in 1652.

Its cornerstone was laid in 1700 and it remains the mother church of the Dutch Reformed Church in Cape Town.

185 Long Street, 082 551 7324, www.muslim.co.za P11 South Africa’s second-oldest mosque was named after two palm trees that stood in front – one remains. The modest building resembles a house, which is what it began life as; a prayer room was later opened here and it gained mosque status in 1825.

Evangelical Lutheran Church

St George’s Cathedral

98 Strand Street, 021 421 5854, www.lutheranchurch.org.za P3 Dating to 1774, this Lutheran church is South Africa’s oldest church in permanent service and forms part of the country’s oldest city block. Look out for the carvings inside by German sculptor Anton Anreith, whose work is regarded as the pinnacle of the Cape Baroque style.

Great Synagogue

Gardens, Squares, Public SpaceS Company’s Garden Government Avenue, enter via cnr Adderley and Wale, Queen Victoria or Orange Streets P10 These gardens, established by the Dutch East India Company (VOC) as a fruit and veg patch in 1652, are an oasis of greenery in the city. Buy a bag of nuts to feed the squirrels

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Iziko Museums

88 Hatfield Street, 021 465 1405, www.gardensshul.org P10 Also known as the Gardens Shul, South Africa’s mother synagogue is a beautiful building dating to 1905 with a distinctive dome. The elegant interior features a carved teak pulpit, gold-leaf friezes and stained-glass windows. The neighbouring Old Synagogue (1863) is South Africa’s oldest.

5 Wale Street, 021 424 7360, www.sgcathedral.co.za P10 This grand Herbert Baker building was begun in 1906, but a cathedral has stood here since 1847, making it southern Africa’s oldest. Archbishop Desmond Tutu led the Cape Town Peace March, a pivotal anti-apartheid protest, from this Anglican cathedral in September 1989.

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and wander the tree-lined walkways between statues, memorials and museums.

Church Square Cnr Parliament and Spin Streets P22 Complementing a visit to the nearby Iziko Slave Lodge, eleven granite blocks in the square display the names of slaves traded here. Slaves would wait here under a ‘slave tree’ while their owners attended church services in Die Groote Kerk.

De Tuynhuys Government Avenue, Company’s Garden P10 Momentous history is never far away in the Mother City, but this presidential office takes some beating. In 1992, President FW de Klerk announced outside the beautiful 18th century building that South Africa had ‘closed the book on apartheid’.

Grand Parade & City Hall Cnr Buitenkant and Darling Streets P20 Next to the Castle of Good Hope, the Grand Parade was once used for military parades, and is now covered with market stalls by day. Overlooking the square, Nelson Mandela addressed the nation from the grand City Hall following his release from prison.

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becoming a parking garage, and now houses restaurants and bars. At the centre of these former townhouses, outbuildings and warehouse, the courtyard is a charming secret spot.

Jetty Square Between Thibault Square and Pier Place P7 Ralph Borland’s eerie shark sculptures in Jetty Square are a reminder that the land here was reclaimed from the sea.

The skeletal structures form a focal point of this public space where you’ll see office workers taking a break.

Long Street Cape Town’s main drag is one of the city’s most vibrant streets, with boutiques, bars, craft shops, cafés and restaurants. Grab a seat on a wrought-iron balcony at a bar housed in one of the Victorian-era buildings – perfect for watching the Mother City go by over a drink.

North Wharf At the end of Wharf Street, off Loop Street P4 This square is hidden among hotels, including the Protea hotel of the same

Jade Maxwell-Newton

Greenmarket Square Between Shortmarket and Longmarket Streets, off St George’s Mall P11 With its craft stalls, cafés and Art Deco buildings, cobbled Greenmarket Square was created in 1696 and, as its name suggests, was originally a fresh produce market. Bustling with marketers and browsing tourists, the square is an atmospheric place to buy craftwork from throughout Africa.

Heritage Square Cnr Bree and Shortmarket Streets P2 This block of Cape Dutch and Edwardian buildings dating to the 18th century was saved from

company’s garden

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name, near the end of Bree Street. In this up-and-coming part of the Central City, some good restaurants and cafés are great for a tranquil bite.

Pier Place Off the Heerengracht P16 This square in the Foreshore area, upgraded at a cost of R2 million, is a popular lunch spot for local office workers. Mimicking the human activity, Egon Tania’s lifelike statues of people playing, talking and reading the paper populate the space.

St George’s Mall This pedestrianised thoroughfare, home to the weekly Earth Fair Market as well as permanent kiosks and stalls, runs northeast from St George’s Cathedral. Passing close to Greenmarket Square, it is a pleasant conduit through the city, with benches, trees, public art and cafés.

Places of interest Africa Centre 28 St George’s Mall, 021 418 3336, www.africacentre.net P18 This centre promotes pan-African culture, specifically as a tool for social change, and organises the

Infecting the City public arts festival (www.infectingthecity.com). Twice a year, its Talking Heads event invites specialists, from geophysicists to surfers, to give a presentation.

Berlin Wall fragment 150 St George’s Mall P13 When Nelson Mandela was freed from prison, mere months after the Berlin Wall was torn down, it was an unforgettable conflation of momentous historical events. The German government gave Mandela this chunk of the wall when he visited Berlin in 1996.

Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC) Convention Square, 1 Lower Long Street, 021 410 5000, www.cticc.co.za P9 Containing contemporary artworks and impressive spaces such as the 2 000m2 Grand Ballroom, the CTICC was built a decade ago at a cost of R582 million. Expansions are now underway. It hosts events such as the Good Food & Wine Show (www.good foodandwineshow.co.za) and Design Indaba (www.design­indaba.com).

Castle of Good Hope Cnr Buitenkant and Darling Streets, 021 787 1260, www. castleofgoodhope.co.za P32 Built in 1679, this well-preserved pentagonal Dutch East India Company (VOC) building is South Africa’s oldest surviving colonial pile. Wander the courtyards, arcades, lawns and military museum, or join a guided tour.

Traditional military ceremonies take place at 10am and midday weekdays.

Central library

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Shavan Rahim

greenmarket square see p11

Old Drill Hall, cnr Parade and Darling Streets, 021 444 0983 P20 Built in the late 1800s, this building was originally for soldiers to drill in during bad weather. Today it’s a bustling library with many events and school holiday programmes.

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Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC)

Centre for the Book 62 Queen Victoria Street, 021 423 2669, www.nlsa.ac.za P10 Occupying a beautiful domed Edwardian building, this centre run by the National Library of South Africa promotes reading and writing through events including book discussions, launches, poetry readings and writing workshops. Also here is the Children’s Reading Centre, aimed at kids aged up to seven.

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Between Roeland and Darling, and Buitenkant and Canterbury Streets, including the strip from Longmarket to Tennant Streets P33 This gritty area has found a new burst of life, thanks to the arrival of design companies and cool cafés and venues. To appreciate this urban development initiative and the local creativity, a good place to start is the Field Office café (see page 22), run by designers Pedersen and Lennard.

Houses of Parliament 120 Plein Street, 021 403 2266, www.parliament.gov.za P10

This imposing red-and-white building with Corinthian columns has witnessed many pivotal moments in South African history, including the assassination of then prime minister Hendrik Verwoerd, the so-called architect of apartheid, in 1966. Call to arrange a free guided tour between Monday and Friday (bring your ID or passport).

Long Street Baths Cnr Long and Orange Streets, 021 400 3202 P10 Inside this Art Nouveau bathhouse, built in 1908, are Turkish baths, a 25-metre heated pool, children’s pools and a sun deck. The Turkish baths, which have a sauna, steam rooms, hot room and showers, are open at different times for men and women.

Mutual Heights 14 Darling Street, cnr Parliament Street, www.mutualheights.net P19 This fantastic example of Art Deco architecture, one of the southern hemisphere’s finest, was built in 1939 to be the headquarters of Old Mutual insurance. Now an apartment block, it was once Africa’s tallest building after the pyramids – and boasted the continent’s fastest lifts.

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Galleries The African Portrait Cnr Long and Hout Streets, 021 426 1886, www.theafricanportrait.com P12 This decade-old gallery specialises in representations of Africa’s many faces, from Zulu chiefs and Masai warriors to Saharan women. As well as oils, it offers limited-edition prints on canvas, and represents two local artists, Grant Oxche and Mekhala van der Schyff.

Association for Visual Arts (AVA) Gallery

The Cape Gallery 60 Church Street, 021 423 5309, www.capegallery.co.za P11 This Church Street stalwart specialises in South African scenes from landscapes to street art – with a preference for artists who express a love of the land reminiscent of the early Cape painters. An excellent gallery for African-themed fine art.

Commune1 64 Wale Street, 021 423 5600, www.commune1.com P11 Founded in 2011, Commune.1 is dedicated to largescale installations and sculpture, with a focus on both local and international artists. The gallery does display painting, photography and the like, but its main interest is in artists who create immersive environments with gallery-spanning art.

free fu Visit man n y Iziko museum as part o s for free f festival d the in_herit uring Nati onal Heritage We 24 Septe ek around mber. Vis it www.izik o.org.za for more info.

35 Church Street, 021 424 7436, www.ava.co.za P11 One of the country’s oldest non-profit galleries, AVA showcases contemporary South African art in all media.

The gallery has been here in various guises since 1971, and aims to promote visual arts and display rising creative stars in its regularly changing exhibitions.

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Ebony 67 Loop Street, 021 424 9985, www.ebonydesign.co.za P5 As well as artworks, Ebony sells design-savvy furniture and accessories including lighting, jewellery, carpets and even toys.

The works hanging on the wall include photography, prints and paintings, with some particularly striking photos of African muscle men by Raphael Agbodjelou.

EDGE Glass Gallery 29 Vredenburg Lane, 021 423 3370, www.capeglassstudio.com P6 Owned by local glass artist Nelius Britz, EDGE exhibits the best contemporary South African art glass and imported works. The pieces on display are a riot of colour with the glass manipulated into fantastical forms, resembling everything from coral reefs to tropical flowers.

The adjoining Cape Glass Studio is where you can witness glass pieces and architectural installations being made.

Netherlandish art and the masters on display include Anthony van Dyck.

G2 Art 61 Shortmarket Street, 021 424 7169, www.g2art.co.za P5 Gallerist Di Smith focuses on local contemporary landscapes, portraiture and sculpture, eschewing fine art in favour of modern pieces fit for the home. She represents several artists; look out for Uver Pfaff’s painted aluminium angels and Jimmy Law’s semi-abstract portraits.

Iziko Michaelis Collection

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Old Town House, Greenmarket Square, 021 481 3933, www.iziko.org.za P11 Cape Town’s collection of 17th century Dutch and Flemish paintings hangs in the Old Town House, formerly the City Hall, built in 1755 in the Cape Rococo style. The 17th century was a golden age for

Iziko South African National Gallery Government Avenue, Company’s Garden, 021 481 3970, www.iziko. org.za P10 One of South Africa’s best art museums, the National’s permanent collection includes paintings, photo­ graphy, sculpture, beadwork and textiles from across Africa and Europe.

The wide-ranging programme of temporary exhibitions has included retrospectives of KwaZulu-Natal’s Rorke’s Drift Art and Craft Centre and Tretchikoff’s kitschy portraits.

Lutge Gallery 109 Loop Street, 021 424 8448, www.lutge.co.za P5 Allan Lutge’s gallery juxtaposes old and new, displaying reclaimed

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indigenous wood tables alongside antique furniture and architectural features. The juxtaposition continues throughout the space, where you are equally likely to find a Victorian cast-iron pole as a contemporary ceramic vase.

Michaelis Gallery

go o d g ui des There are myriad tour companies offering bus and walking tours of the Central City.

African Touch Tours (072 388 2398, www.africantouchtours.com) offers a range of guided tours, including a three-hour amble around the Central City.

Andulela (021 418 3020, www.andulela. co.za) and CoffeeBeans Routes (021 461 3572,

New Heritage Gallery & the d’Vine Art Room 100 Shortmarket Street, www.newheritagegallery.com P2

www.coffeebeansroutes.com) tours have an emphasis on meeting Capetonians, hearing their stories and understanding their culture.

Awol Tours (021 418 3803, www. awoltours.co.za) walking and bicycle tours cover the city’s highlights from museums and monuments to the contemporary life of its streets and markets while Cape Town Carriage Company (Castle of Good Hope, 021 704 6907, www.ctcco.co.za) takes visitors on historical tours in a replica Victorian horse-drawn carriage.

One of the top ways to see most of the city is with CitySightseeing Cape Town (81 Long Street,

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Dale Yudelman

Michaelis School of Fine Art, UCT Hiddingh Campus, 31-37 Orange Street, 021 480 7111, www.michaelis.uct.ac.za P10 The Michaelis School of Fine Art’s

200m2 gallery hosts a range of temporary exhibitions, featuring staff members, alumni, local and international arts organisations.

Emerging artists and curators are given exposure under the banner ‘Michaelis Lab’, offering them the benefits of a non-commercial, experimental space.

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Shay Davis’s poppy and punky gallery is unashamedly modern. The gallery hosts changing exhibitions and represents artists such as Gregor Rohrig, who appropriates painters from Matisse to Tretchikoff.

Stateoftheart Gallery 61 Shortmarket Street, 072 470 9272, www.stateoftheart.co.za P5 This is the real-world home of a virtual gallery, giving browsers the opportunity to log on and buy that landscape after viewing it here. With a focus on affordable contemporary art by graduates and emerging artists from around South Africa, Stateoftheart sells painting, drawing, sculpture, photography and prints.

Worldart

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54 Church Street, 021 423 3075, www.worldart.co.za P11

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Going since 2004, Charl Bezuidenhout’s gallery specialises in the colourful and funky end of contemporary art, such as Kilmany-Jo Liversage’s graffiti portraits, Dion Cupido’s urban works and Ayanda Mabulu’s pop take on Animal Farm.

Prints by Liversage and the great Walter Battiss are available.

Youngblood Africa Arts & Culture Development Beautifull Life Building, 70-72 Bree Street, 021 424 0074, www.youngblood-africa.com P2 Sharing a space with Beautifull Food restaurant, this arts foundation, established by a shipping magnate, supports emerging South African artists by offering them capital and exposure. The gallery stages regular events including concerts, launches and workshops, and has a different exhibition every fortnight.

For more sights, visit www.capetowncid.co.za www.capetowncid.co.za/explore-our-cbd/sights/

021 511 6000, www.citysightseeing.co.za).

With audio guides to give you historical background and open tops to give you a tan, CitySightseeing’s red doubledecker buses are a hop-on, hop-off way to tour.

Footsteps to Freedom (021 671 6878, www.footstepstofreedom.co.za) offers cultural and historical tours – on the eponymous walking tour and Nelson Mandela-themed walk, passionate guides narrate the city’s history on street corners and squares.

Think you’ve seen all Cape Town has to offer? Good Hope Adventures’ (Castle of Good Hope, 021 510 7517, www.goodhopeadventures.com) Tunnel Tour explores the city’s secret

subterranean rivers and canals, some of which date back to the 17th century.

Walk in Africa’s (021 785 2264, www.walkinafrica. com) guided day walks include the interactive Sex and Slaves in the City tour. Led by actors, the well-researched tour tells the history of Cape Town and its slaves through the eyes of several real historical characters.

Wanderlust (086 547 6833, www. wanderlust.co.za) offers walking tours in English or German, bringing to life the information found in its historical tomes. The 21/2-hour tour starts from Cape Town Tourism and heads through the streets to the Company’s Garden.

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KLûK CGDT

3

4

5

MY central CITY

by Malcolm Kluk and Christiaan Gabriël du Toit of KLûK CGDT

OUR FAVOURITE SPOTS 1. Lusitania for the best fish and chips in town. 2. Long Street Antiques Arcade is a treasure trove of finds. 3 Hemelhuijs Restaurant has incredible food – it’s like a dinner party every day. 4. The grace and majesty of City Hall.

5. And Bree Street – it’s all happening here!

We love the Central City because… it simply works – it’s organised, with a great infrastructure. Roads are geared for pedestrians and bicycles, tourists and locals alike; and it’s safe and clean.

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SDR photo Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town http://ramp.sdr.co.za/1407MBFWCT/KlukCGDT, Supplied

A stunning new three-storey studio and shop space welcomes fashionistas browsing the ready-towear collection and coming for a couture consultation. This design duo continues to wow the fashion world with their elegant, feminine pieces and magnificent bridal creations.

47 Bree Street, 083 377 7780, www.klukcgdt.com

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Books The Book Lounge 71 Roeland Street, 021 462 2425, www.booklounge.co.za P31 This independent gem is a relaxed haven for book lovers, with a café, knowledgeable staff and two floors of novels and non-fiction. Events include the Saturday-morning children’s story time and regular book launches with author appearances.

Clarke’s Bookshop 199 Long Street, 021 423 5739, www.clarkesbooks.co.za P6 The best spot for Africana from antiquarian to ANC memoirs, Clarke’s specialises in books on southern Africa, particularly new tomes. With 60 years of experience, Clarke’s ensures its two floors of shelves and tables hold treasures for all.

Select Books 232 Long Street, 021 424 6955, www.selectbooks.co.za P6 Stocking tomes on subjects from botany to politics, Select deals in out-of-print and new books about southern Africa. The shop issues catalogues focused on Africana and rugby.

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Xhosa pottery, beadwork, basketry and fabrics, alongside items made from recycled materials.

African Image Cnr Church and Burg Streets, 021 423 8385, www.african-image.co.za P11 African Image has a quality selection of crafts and souvenirs, all purchased at source and curated. This is the place to buy shweshwe cushions, dinky sculptures made of recycled cans, zingy fabrics, chunky jewellery and tribal masks.

The Gallery Shop 46 Church Street, 021 424 0517 P11 This shop showcases both traditional and contemporary South African craft, supporting community projects, Aids organisations, NGOs and individual crafters. The handmade wares include beaded jewellery, ceramics, embroidered textiles and telephone-wire sculpture.

Imagenius 117 Long Street, 021 423 7870, www.imagenius.co.za P11 Channelling the eclectic and funloving spirit of Cape Town, most of

Ulrich Naumann Deutsche Buchhandlung 15-19 Burg Street, 021 423 7832, www.buchhandlungnaumann.co.za P11 This German bookshop also sells books in English and French, and its stock includes field guides, maps (including Slingsby), novels and books on South African history and cookery.

Jurie Senekal

Crafts & gifts African Home Crafts 41 Caledon Street, 021 461 1700, www.africanhome.co.za P22 This African craft specialist is worth seeking out for its pieces ranging from township art to tribal objects.

In one shop, you will find Zulu and

the book lounge

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Imagenius’ cool clothing, kitschy accessories, intriguing curios and beautiful jewellery is locally made.

Spread across three floors are items such as robot toys and sparkly Uggs.

Lucky Fish 43 Long Street, 021 422 3801, www.luckyfish.mobi P12 Lucky Fish sells a quintessentially Capetonian mix of quirky souvenirs and street-sharp clothing, mostly by local designers. Dangle your retail rod here to snag crumple-up city maps, Long Street T-shirts and pictures of local icons from Table Mountain to rhinos.

Merchants on Long

south african market

Décor & homeware Avoova

34 Long Street, 021 422 2828, www.merchantsonlong.com P12 This clothing boutique sells sharp threads and accessories by African designers, including Laloo jewellery, Makono shirts and the store’s ownbrand toiletries. There is also a café here, and parts of the historic building are as old as Cape Town itself.

97 Bree Street, 021 422 1620, www.avoova.com P2 Designed and handmade in the small Karoo town of Prince Albert, Avoova’s incredible range of ostrich eggshell items includes picture frames, bowls, belt buckles, cufflinks and even champagne buckets.

Mogalakwena Craft Art Gallery

37 Barrack Street, 021 461 4599, www.fieldoffice.co.za P31 This café-cum-design outlet showcases the Afro-Scandinavian work of Pedersen and Lennard. Furniture captures both the imaginative qualities of African craft and the smooth aesthetics of Scandinavian design, for example steel-bucket barstools.

3 Church Street, 021 424 7488, www.mogalakwena.com P11 Exhibitions covering African culture take place on the ground floor of Mogalakwena, while the other floors showcase unique textiles, embroidered soft furnishings, linen, and beaded items. The shop is linked to the Mogalakwena Craft Art Development Foundation.

South African Market

Long Street Antique Arcade 127 Long Street, 021 447 6828, www.theantiquearcade.co.za P12 Coins, medals, militaria, antiques, collectables, books and more are available here with shelf upon shelf of shiny treasures and faded curios at 12 shops.

Moroccan Warehouse Cnr Commercial and Buitenkant Streets, 021 461 8318 P31

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Shavan Rahim

107 Bree Street, 079 808 0641, www.ilovesam.co.za P2 SAM gives a platform to local designers of all stripes, and as such is a great place to buy gifts from ceramic fish to hand-painted handbags. Fashion, shoes, toiletries, cushions, stationery, furniture and jewellery are all here.

Field Office

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This Moroccan treasure trove sells and hires out the fruits of the owners’ annual buying trips to Morocco. The stock includes décor, carpets, mosaic tables, mint tea glasses and scatter cushions – all guaranteed to give your home some Maghrebi mystique.

Sarah Ord Interiors 215 Bree Street, 021 422 3218, www.sarahord.com P6 Vibrant colour is the trademark of interior designer Sarah Ord, as her shop reflects in its fabrics, repurposed antiques and new pieces. The eclectic stock includes crockery and ceramic lamps designed by Ord, plus furnishings and materials from Ghanaian wax cloth to Sri Lankan cotton.

Skinny Laminx 201 Bree Street, 021 424 6290, www.skinnylaminx.com P6 Designer Heather Moore’s work includes fabrics, decorative items, stationery and placemats, all made in Cape Town. Moore’s trademark blocky, graphic style is appealingly direct, whether employed in a flowery cushion cover or an apron adorned with quirky intersecting mushroom outlines.

Stable 65 Loop Street, 021 426 5094, www.stable.org.za P5 This showcase of innovative South African design features work including chairs, tables, lighting and accessories. Curvy dishes, LED sculptures, elegant leather bags and galvanised pipe lights are just a few of the items on sale here.

iStock by Getty

Fashion 210 on Long 210 Long Street, 021 481 1820, www.210onlong.co.za/mall P6 This arcade is excellent for some alternative shopping, filled with independent retailers such as

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Class of 09 and No Manga Manga selling cool fashion. Also here is Hemporium, which specialises in hemp clothing, and Love on Long café.

A-List 110 Long Street, 021 422 4844, www.a-list.biz P6 Under the slogan ‘birds of a feather flock together’, A-List offers local and imported womenswear, most displaying a high level of originality.

Their dresses are particularly note­ worthy, featuring vivid colours, bold cuts and head-turning patterns.

Afraid of Mice Cnr Long and Longmarket Streets, 021 423 7353, www.afraidofmice. com P6 Afraid of Mice offers hand-picked vintage womenswear, one-of-akind pieces and ‘the clothes you wish your mother had kept for you’.

All are displayed in a clean white environment, and the brands here include Chanel, Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and Stella McCartney.

Babette 41 Church Street, 021 424 4457, www.babetteclothing.co.za P11 //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

F EE LIN G BO O K I SH ?

The Book Lounge is really a hotspot for culture vultures. Regular launches host local cookbook authors, international authors and South African heavy hitters.

But perhaps the biggest notch on their belt is the Open Book Festival, which happens every September.

Talks, walks, launches, interviews and discussions with local and international authors of all genres make this fest a must. www.openbook.co.za //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

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well-crafted footwear for men and women. On the men’s shelves are whisky-coloured brogues and tarblack Oxfords, while women will love the fire-engine-red ankle boots.

Errol Arendz Boutique 66 Hout Street, 021 461 1385, www.errolarendz.co.za P12 Arendz studied and worked in Paris and London, and has subsequently dressed celebs such as Sharon Stone – and the South African Airways staff.

This boutique sells his collections of intricately crafted footwear and Dusud dresses, every piece an adventurous departure from typical couture. shelflife see p26

Gypsy

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Shavan Rahim

285 Long Street, 021 424 2994 P6 As its name suggests, Gypsy’s Local label Babette is the work womenswear is free-flowing and of Barbara Lötter, who adapts softly coloured. A Hindu goddess vintage dresses. Her and antique chest guard sleeveless dresses, the path to turquoise flowery skirts and pashminas, lilac dresses children hats, displayed in and items exuding of the revolu this suitably retro eastern mystique. tion For all yo shop all cry out for u r m o u ntain biking ne ed Hello Again a summer garden Cycles is s, Revolution th e b 223 Long Street, party. est spot.

171 Bree S 021 426 0242, 021 423 5 treet, 191, www .

Boaston www.helloagainshop. revolutio ncycles.

55 Long Street, blogspot.com P6 co.za 076 923 4426, Hello Again sells locally www.facebook. made basics and more com/Boaston elaborate clothing, with Society P12 essentials for home, beach, gym and A streetwear store with a difference, beer garden all present and correct.

Boaston encourages creativity with Guys will enjoy the droll T-shirts. its drop-in workspace and café Hemporium among the local and international 210 Long Street, 021 702 4988, clothing. There is a good selection www.hemporium.com P6 of South African designers, including This puntastic shop sells functional, Young and Lazy as well as bags by natural and stylish hemp products, Simple Sam. including T-shirts, bags, toiletries, Diomande socks and string. Drop any prejudices 130 Long Street, 021 424 0747, about hemp only appealing to the www.diomande.com P6 dream catcher brigade – some of Specialising in leather shoes and these clothes would fit in well at the boots, Diomande makes swooningly gym or office.

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Hendrik Vermeulen Couture 79 Hout Lane, 021 424 2686, www.hendrikvermeulen.com P12 This atelier sells the glamorous collections designed by talented Vermeulen, who started sewing aged six and opened his first store at 27.

Vermeulen designs womens- and menswear and accessories, but his shimmering dresses are the standout.

Henry 218-224 Long Street, 021 422 0696, www.garmentarchaeology.blog.com P6 Henry’s purported purpose is ‘garment archaeology’ – it sees itself as a purveyor of nostalgia, one-offs and hard-to-finds. Sharp urban style is chopped into the mix, and products include vintage Casio watches, New Balance trainers, Anerkjendt and Humor shirts from Denmark.

Iracema Boutique 217 Bree Street, 071 405 0583, www. facebook.com/IracemaBoutique P6 Head to London émigré Deborah Polansky’s boutique for stunning womenswear, accessories, vintage garb and menswear. Polansky has an eye for one-offs and the shelves are stacked with a well-chosen collection.

Journey

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store with many of the Australian surf labels, and the artistic owner’s portraits of Capetonian characters are also for sale.

MeMeMe 117A Long Street, 021 424 0001, www.mememe.co.za P11 Designer Doreen Southwood’s boutique specialises in clothing, accessories, shoes and handbags by other South African designers.

Her own work has feminine and nostalgic qualities, striving to offer contemporary interpretations of classic looks.

Mungo & Jemima 108 Long Street, 021 424 5016, www.mungoandjemima.com P11 This elegant boutique sells the owners’ womenswear labels, Good and Coppelia, alongside other South African designers. Mungo & Jemima is aimed at women of all ages who seek genuinely individual garments.

Paul Smith 133 Bree Street, 021 424 0354, www.paulsmith.co.uk P11 This blue-fronted store sells mens­wear by the renowned British designer, whose clothes have graced catwalks for decades. Buy an exquisite suit or iconic sneakers.

186 Long Street, 021 424 5209, www.journeylifestyle.co.za P6 With an array of local designers plus hand-picked vintage pieces and art, Journey is the place to fill your wardrobe and your home. Labels such as Moss, Margot Molyneux and Take Care hang on the rails, with modern classics and offbeat outfits.

Shavan Rahim

Latitude 33 165 Bree Street, 079 281 2073, www.lat33.co.za P6 This British-owned shop stocks streetwise and beach-ready clothes by the likes of Insight, Rhythm and Mink Pink. It is the only South African

Babette see p23

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Second Time Around

Skinz Leatherwear

196 Long Street, 021 423 1674 P6 This fun-loving vintage clothing store is bursting at the seams with hats, dresses, shirts and jackets that would make a Great Gatsby flapper proud.

Old tea sets, cameras and assorted curios complete the atmosphere.

86 Long Street, 021 424 3978, www.skinzleather.co.za P11 Since 1978, Skinz has manufactured and sourced unique leatherwear.

This is the place to pick up leather waistcoats, suede crop tops – and outlandish porcupine lampshades and ostrich wallets.

ShelfLife 167 Longmarket Street, 021 422 3931, www.shelflife.co.za P6 See why the American rappers Run-D.M.C. dedicated a whole song to their Adidas trainers at this sneaker and streetwear store.

All the streetwise essentials are here, including a dizzying selection of sneakers, chunky watches and Batman caps.

Strato

Sitting Pretty

The Superior Goods Store

111 Long Street, 021 422 3996, www.sittingpretty.co.za P6 Emma Longden’s store sells her eponymous label. Inspired by the styles glimpsed on her world travels, Longden’s womenswear is classic and simple with an edgy twist, featuring natural, locally sourced fabrics. Other South African designers also feature.

69 Roeland Street, 082 579 2903, www.simondeporres.com P31 Living up to its name, this menswear boutique sells the Simon Deporres label’s shirts, T-shirts, hoodies, jackets and trilbies. All are designed and made locally, with a philosophy of producing classic tailored streetwear that retains its contemporary feel.

159 Long Street, 021 424 5246, www.wearstrato.com P6 Maloti Mathobi, the designer behind Strato, makes wholeheartedly urban menswear. Colourful shirts, sleek chinos, T-shirts imprinted with a hustler’s face – all are made for the streets, with a signature play of colours and trims on clean silhouettes.

Vintage and the City 287 Long Street, 021 422 5646, www. facebook.com/VintageandtheCity P6 Eras from the 1920s to the 1980s are covered here, with styles including goth, glam and grunge on the rails.

Nirvana T-shirts hang alongside nautical jackets, and school satchels next to ’70s denim.

Woodhead’s

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second time around

29 Caledon Street, 021 461 7185, www.woodheads.co.za P22 Founded in 1867, Woodhead’s is the city’s original leather merchant, with sandals, belts, sheepskin slippers and boots among its products. Animal skins, cushions, sofas and lampshades also feature, all distinguished by their designs and trademark quality.

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Food & drink Caroline’s Fine Wines Matador Centre, 62 Strand Street, 021 419 8984, www.carolineswine.com P13 Caroline Rillema stocks 1 500-plus South African wines and one of the country’s largest ranges of European wines. The shop prides itself on its Italian selection, but we recommend that foreign visitors make the most of being in Cape Town and sample the wonderful local wines.

Frankie Fenner Meat Merchants 81 Church Street, 021 424 7204, www.ffmm.co.za P2 Buying some steaks for the braai is a time-honoured South African ritual, and these butchers put a hip Capetonian spin on the experience.

You can buy clean, ethically reared, sustainable cuts, and add a Deluxe Coffeeworks cappuccino to your order. Watch the butchers at work at the blocks behind the counter.

Honest Artisan Chocolate 64A Wale Street, 021 423 8762, www.honestchocolate.co.za P5 Made of raw, organic cacao and agave, Honest’s hand-moulded chocolate slabs come in a fantastic range of flavours, courtesy of ingredients such as mint oil and cracked coffee beans. The heavenly artisan bars, bonbons and spreads are made in small batches using traditional methods.

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jewellery & Accessories Coeval 5 Protea Assurance Building, 96A St George’s Mall, 021 424 1183, www.coeval.co.za P13 Coeval is an old English word meaning contemporary – a fitting name for this jewellery combining modern style and classic elegance. Designer Delmarie van der Westhuizen makes lovely bespoke pieces.

Honest Artisan Chocolate

Destinée Jewellers 45 Buitengracht Street, 021 426 6789, www.destinee.co.za P1 Destinée offers a surprising range of services. Diamond cutting and jewellery manufacturing tours demonstrate how the coveted objects are produced, while the diamond and tanzanite jewellery is sold alongside homeware and African craft.

Leather & Suede 73 Loop Street, 021 426 2758, www.leatherandsuede.co.za P3 If you want a truly memorable souvenir in the form of a beautiful garment or accessory, look no further than Leather & Suede. The 45-yearold store offers an excellent range, including jackets, waistcoats, bags, belts and shoes, and carries out alterations and commissions.

Missibaba and Kirsten Goss London 229 Bree Street, 021 424 8127, www.missibaba.com, www.kirstengoss.com P6 With colour-block and monochrome collections, the eclectic Missibaba derives both its inspiration and materials from Africa, resulting in graphically patterned garments

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Missibaba and Kirsten Goss London see p27

and handmade handbags. Glinting away on the other side of the shared premises is Kirsten Goss’s thoroughly contemporary geometric jewellery.

of GQ South Africa, while his work also includes fishhook-like silver and leather bracelets, and silver and ebony rings.

Olive Green Cat

Prins & Prins

76 Church Street, 021 424 1101, www.olivegreencat.com P5 This stylish little jewellery shop offers three designers’ signature pieces, from Perspex cuffs to bespoke engagement rings, and the Situ collection, featuring diamonds set in resin.

Cnr Loop and Hout Streets, 021 422 0148, www.prinsandprins. com P5 Sharing the 18th century Huguenot House with its Museum of Gems & Jewellery, this family jewellers has the experience to guide your purchase, whether you want a forever diamond engagement ring, some tanzanite earrings or a pink sapphire bracelet.

Philip Zetler Jewellers 54 St George’s Mall, 021 423 2771, www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za P13 One of the city’s best shops for rare timepieces, this 80-year-old operation also sells diamonds, tanzanite, antique and modern jewellery, and Krugerrand coins.

Pierre-Estienne Designers & Engravers

Adderley Street, between Strand and Darling Streets P19 This local institution mixes floral scents and colourful petals with all the bustle of a market. Sellers call out the day’s deals and reel in punters like bees to nectar; look out for Cape classics such as proteas, petunias and daisies.

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59A Long Street, 076 270 6372, www.pierre-estienne.com P12 Pierre-Estienne’s eclectic jewellery ranges in style from chunky and modern to fluid and gothic. His signet rings have featured on the cover

Markets Adderley Street Flower Market

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Church Street Market Church Street, between Long and Burg Streets P11 Church Street’s antique shops are supplemented by this line of trestle tables, offering a mind-boggling array of antiques and vintage curios.

Some real gems can be found here, as well silverware, crockery and trinkets.

Greenmarket Square

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specialist The African Music Store 134 Long Street, 021 426 0857, www.africanmusicstore.co.za P5 Sun-kissed African tunes breeze out of this local institution with CDs from across the continent. The prodigious output of musical lands such as Zimbabwe and Mali is here, along with local sounds from Xhosa trad to Cape jazz.

Burg Street between Longmarket Ecoco Cnr Loop and Shortmarket Streets, and Shortmarket Streets P11 021 424 3339, www.ecoco.

This cobbled square co.za P5 functions as an Established in 1965, this atmospheric outdoor get wheels ecological cosmetic craft market. Browse Head to company uses allfunky township art (301 Lon Boardhub g Street, www. boardhub natural ingredients in and items from .co.za) fo r sk boards a its hypo-allergenic across Africa to nd Etnies ateshoes and Daho products, which are the gentle pulse n (1 52 B Street, w ww.daho ree made locally. The of buskers playing n bik co.za) fo r hip fold es. safari pack, with Cape calypso drums. bicycles. -up camomile shampoo Pan African and rooibos soap, makes Market a great gift.

76 Long Street, 021 426 Merry Pop Ins 4478 P11 201 Bree Street, 021 422 4911, On three floors of a venerable Long www.merrypopins.co.za P6 Street building, 35 market stalls sell Penny-watching parents will indeed be the best craftwork that Africa has to merry when they pop in here. Quality offer. Browse classic items from across second-hand clothing, furniture and the continent, including multicoloured gear for kids aged up to 12 are for fabrics, masks, wooden giraffes and sale. New items come in daily, and the hippos, sold by a multilingual group store helps disadvantaged families in of vendors. the Cape Town area.

St George’s Mall

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If you have an itch for a no-brand phone accessory or a painting of Desmond Tutu with Table Mountain hovering in the background, head to St George’s Mall. Along the length of the pedestrianised thoroughfare, kiosks and stands sell food, drinks, clothes, craftwork and souvenirs.

Sturk’s Tobacconists 54 Shortmarket Street, 021 423 3928, www.sturkstobacconists.co.za P11 Established in 1793, South Africa’s oldest tobacconist stocks cigarettes, cigars, cigarillos, water pipes and tobacco in every conceivable flavour.

For more shops, visit www.capetowncid.co.za www.capetowncid.co.za/explore-our-cbd/shop/

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E AT

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dear me

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3

4 MY central CITY

by vanessa marx, chef at dear me

MY FAVOURITE SPOTS 1. Shelf Life sells shoes that make me feel like a kid in a candy store.

2. Wienhaus + Biergarten for the beer of course! 3. Frankie Fenner Meat Merchants is a favourite supplier of mine, for fresh free-range meat, a drink and a chat. 4. The Company’s Garden with its cheeky squirrels is a space where I can catch my breath. 5. Chefs Warehouse has great food and the best variety of foodie books and kitchenware you could wish for. 6. House of Machines makes the best avo on toast. 7. Afraid of Mice for all things cute and pretty.

I love the Central City because… the energy is unbelievable and there is a great network in the neighbourhood. We have loads of regulars at Dear Me and having their constant support is amazing. We live in a gorgeous city with vibrant people and a diverse offering of creativity.

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Supplied, Shavan Rahim, Jade Maxwell-Newton

Dear Me serves honest, wholesome dishes in a like-minded environment, where blackboards climb the walls and pot plants hang from the ceiling. The menu created by chef Vanessa Marx accommodates dietary requirements such as vegan and gluten-free. The White Room upstairs showcases a multi-course feast on Thursday and Friday evenings.

165 Longmarket Street, 021 422 4290, www.dearme.co.za

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African Addis in Cape

e at

Mama Africa

41 Church Street, 021 424 5722, www.addisincape.co.za P11 Ethiopian cuisine is a culinary delight with its thick and spicy wot stews served on injera, a pancake-like sourdough flatbread. Addis in Cape offers these exotic dishes, and homemade Ethiopian coffee to finish.

178 Long Street, 021 424 8634, www.mamaafricarestaurant.co.za P6 With live marimba every night, this spot creates African vibes alongside dishes from across the continent.

Enjoy a drink at the Snake Bar, with its Coke-bottle chandelier, before choosing between Mama’s specials such as bobotie and game kebabs.

Africa Café

Mariam’s Kitchen

108 Shortmarket Street, 021 422 0221, www.africacafe.co.za P2 Africa Café offers tastes of the continent in suitably colourful surrounds, with outlandish murals covering the walls. Enjoy the seasonal menu featuring specialities of Cape Town, Morocco and Malawi.

101 St George’s Mall, 021 423 0772 P13 Mariam’s is a great place to try Cape Malay cuisine. Curries, bobotie, gatsbies and salomies (roti wraps) are all on the menu. It’s halaal and there are prayer facilities.

Café Timbuktu 76 Long Street, 072 704 6182 P12 The Pan African Market’s resident eatery, serving Ethiopian cuisine under a Malian name, reflects the market’s transcontinental spirit.

All the Ethiopian classics are here, including spicy wot stew served on spongy injera flatbread; enjoy them with a fresh juice on the balcony.

Marimba Cnr Heerengracht and Walter Sisulu Street, 021 418 3366, www.marimbasa.com P9 This restaurant at the CTICC offers live music from marimba maestro Bongani Sotshononda. The stone, wood and steel furnishings reflect the continent’s energy, as does the marimba suspended from the ceiling and the communal dishes served in earthenware pots.

The Diplomatic 35 Long Street, 021 424 5000, www.facebook.com/ thediplomaticCapeTown P12 This Congolese-owned bar-restaurant serves a range of African dishes. Try blesbok, chakalaka relish, oxtail, lamb curry, crocodile tail or tripe – served with classic sides including pap, rice, pumpkin and sugar beans in sauce.

Shavan Rahim

Madam Taitou 77 Long Street, 021 426 6969, www.madamtaitou.com P12 Madam Taitou serves Ethiopian specialities such as couscous and tibs (grilled lean beef with Berbere spice mix). A traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony takes place at 7pm daily, and there are good vegetarian options.

hard pressed see p37

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Asian Active Sushi Portside Building, Bree Street, 021 418 0064, www.activesushi.com P3 In its glass-fronted new space, Active keeps busy urbanites happy with classics from California rolls to sashimi and excellent deals.

Downtown Ramen 103 Harrington Street, 021 461 0407 P32 This noodle bar serves authentic bowls of Japanese noodles and broth in a pared-down setting. The sides are excellent, and tea eggs a must.

Fuji Yumi Cnr Loop and Church Streets, 021 422 3660, www.fujiyumi.com P5 In a bright, modern space, Fuji Yumi serves modern and traditional Japanese food. Noodles, miso soup, bento boxes and sushi are on the menu.

Fujiyama 77 Church Street, 021 424 2491, www.fujiyamacapetown.com P2 This elegant restaurant is a great dinner choice. Its set evening menus typically feature a few courses including sushi and miso soup.

Galbi 210 Long Street, 021 424 3030, www.galbi.co.za P6 This ‘Korean fusion barbecue’ is a fun concept: every table has a small grill, on which diners barbecue their own game, meat, chicken and vegetables.

Haiku

I Love My Laundry 14 Bree Street, 073 939 7619 P3, 59 Buitengracht, 074 992 1481 P2,

50 Buitenkant Street, 078 105 6280 P31 www.ilovemylaundry.co.za I Love My Laundry makes a visit to the laundry enjoyable: the café, bar, laundrette and art gallery rolled into one offers dim sum and wine tastings.

Minato 4 Buiten Street, 021 423 4712, www.facebook.com/ minatosushirestaurant P6 This restaurant has great sushi – think rolls, sashimi, tempura and platters.

Finish with deep-fried ice cream.

Phad Thai 18 Long Street, 021 418 3011, www.phadthai.info P3 Phad Thai serves dishes from Thailand and Japan. A revolving sushi counter displays classics such as fashion sandwiches and crispy duck rolls.

Simply Asia 96 Shortmarket Street, 021 426 4347, www.simplyasia.co.za P2 This Thai chain offers three levels of spicy heat – blinking, brilliant and shooting stars. Tongue-twisting dishes such as phad med nam-man-hoi (cashew stir-fry) hold broad appeal.

South China Dim Sum Bar 289 Long Street, 078 846 3656, www.facebook.com/ SouthChinaDimSumBar P6 Dumplings, rice-noodle rolls and other goodies make a sociable meal in authentic surrounds.

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Shavan Rahim

58 Burg Street, 021 424 7000, www.haikurestaurant.com P11 Haiku’s elegant oriental décor, mixing stone, paper and wood, is an intimate setting for the modern Asian cuisine.

Dishes are served tapas-style.

I Love My Laundry, bree street

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Bakeries & coffee houses Charly’s Bakery 38 Canterbury Street, 021 461 5181, www.charlysbakery.co.za P32 This bakery has its own TV show and makes cakes resembling everything from guitars to helicopters. Pop in for a pie and happy vibes in the pink building.

Deluxe Coffeeworks 25 Church Street, 072 569 9579, www.deluxecoffeeworks.co.za P11 This is the mothership of local caffeine champs. Roasting is the main business here, and the small café is a cool spot to grab a cup or bag of black gold.

Euro Haus Bakery 210 Loop Street, 021 422 0168, www.eurohaus.co.za P6 Euro Haus offers tastes of continental Europe, including Danish pastries, pretzels and Bavarian rye. It’s tastefully decorated with sandblasted stools and a jam-jar chandelier.

haas collective 19 Buitenkant Street, 021 461 1812, haascollective.com P31 In a brand new venue in the East City, Haas’s claim to fame may be the kopi luwak coffee they have available. But there’s so much more: delicious eats and drinks, quirky décor items for sale and a cool vibe.

Jason Bakery 185 Bree Street, 021 424 5644, www.jasonbakery.com P6 With pop art on the walls, this hip bakery is popular for its pastries, breakfasts and man-sized sandwiches.

Everything is baked daily, using locally sourced, free-range ingredients.

iStock by Getty

Kamili Cnr Long and Shortmarket Streets, 083 444 5375, www.kamilicoffee.co.za P11 Kamili is the brainchild of coffee connoisseur Theo Snyckers, who roasts beans and introduces drinkers to new flavours in this century-old building.

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ou meul bakkery 14 Long Street, 021 419 0226 P14 Authentic home-made pies and bakes keep regulars happy. Pop in for a pie and salad and leave with a frozen venison pie and milk tart for home.

Tribakery 22 Bree Street, 021 421 9171, www.tribakery.co.za P3 This local chain of bakeries offers a good selection of meals, including gourmet burgers and sandwiches.

The floor-to-ceiling windows are perfect for people-watching.

Truth Coffee 36 Buitenkant Street, 021 200 0440, www.truthcoffee.com P31 The headquarters of Truth coffee roasters, this is a wonderful place to enjoy a coffee in the coolest steampunk atmosphere.

Vida e Caffè Market House, Greenmarket Square, 021 426 5517, www.vidaecaffe.com P11 Staff say ‘obrigado’ at this Portuguesethemed café chain. It’s a bustling spot to appreciate their coffee and Portuguese café food.

Yours Truly 175 Long Street, 021 422 3788, www.yourstrulycafe.co.za P6 This black-and-white café offers ‘coffee, eats and art’. Grab a flat white through the hatch or head inside for gourmet sandwiches and pizza. //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

AL FR E S CO EATS Every Thursday the top of St George’s Mall is transformed into a foodie haven with the Earth Fair Market. Stock up on artisanal produce or buy delicious eats for lunch on the go. www.earthfairmarket.co.za //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

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Bistros & cafÉs Awestruck Bistro 92 Bree Street, 021 424 6261 P2 Elegant meets casual in this spot, which specialises in delicious pastries, gourmet sandwiches and chocolate treats. With its dedication to ‘affordable scrumptiousness’, they offer regular specials and outside seating.

Beautifull Food Beautifull Life Building, 70-72 Bree Street, 021 424 1960, www.young blood-africa.com P5 This is a good lunch choice for its ‘create a plate’ buffet. Chef Clara Bubenzer follows her passion for organic, locally grown food in the home-made pies, quiches, salads and all-day breakfasts.

dishes such as chicken pie and cured salmon salad; for dinner, try Karoo lamb or duck confit.

Bistrot Bizerca 98 Shortmarket Street, 021 423 8888, www.bizerca.com P2 One of the city’s best bistros, Bizerca brings the relaxed ambiance of a French bistro to Heritage Square, with Gallic classics and new dishes, all using fresh Cape produce.

spicy

For a tast ! e exotic, he of the Eastern F ad to the ood Baza with curr ies and ke ar babs available ca Or just gra nteen-style.

96 Longm b a takeaway. arket Street, 021 461 2458, www.e foodbazaa astern r.co.za

Birds Café 127 Bree Street, 021 426 2534, www.facebook.com/BirdsCafe P6 This spot is known for its use of local produce. For lunch, choose from

The Blend 79 Roeland Street, 074 276 5265 P31 This café in the East City serves great daytime fare. Pop in for coffee, chocolate croissants and tasty marinated chicken breast fillets in Portuguese rolls.

Borage Bistro Portside Building, Cnr Buitengracht Street and Hans Strydom Avenue, 021 418 0992, www.borage.co.za P4 Beneath exposed pipes in the glassy Portside Building, Borage has created a European kitchen with a South African twist. The focus here is on good food and local producers: they bake their own bread, and offer gourmet sandwiches, fresh juices and daily lunch specials such as risotto.

Café Frank

Café Mozart

Borage Bistro

37 Church Street, 021 424 3774, www.madamezingara.com P11 With its dinky tea garden and walls adorned with crockery and

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iStock by Getty, Supplied

160 Bree Street, 021 423 0360, www.cafefrank.com P6 Frank offers canteen-style dining and fresh, fuss-free dishes. The lunch menu consists of buffet plates and sandwiches with a mouth-watering choice of fillings, all sourced from independent local producers.

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gilt-edged paintings, Mozart is a lovely spot for breakfast or lunch and ideal for people-watching.

Café Riteve 88 Hatfield Street, 021 465 1594, www.norriecaterers.co.za P10 This café at the South African Jewish Museum offers kosher food, with everything from sushi to pizza on the menu. Hearty breakfasts are served until midday and there are some great seafood dishes, including pickled fish.

Cinnamon Coffee Shop and Savour Restaurant African Pride 15 on Orange Hotel, Cnr Orange Street and Grey’s Pass, 021 469 8000, www.africanpridehotels.com P10 Pop into 15 on Orange to admire its sleek interior design; while here, dine on globally inspired dishes in Savour Restaurant, where the Sunday brunch buffet is a sumptuous affair.

For patisserie head to Cinnamon Coffee Shop.

Escape Caffe 130 Bree Street, 021 422 1325 P6 Under new ownership, this café remains a great escape. The new guys, Jeremy and Gerald, serve Isabella’s Blend coffee, as well as breakfast, salads and sandwiches.

Hard Pressed Portside Building, Bree Street, 079 066 8888, www.hardpressed. co.za P4 This cool café serves a winning combo of coffee, food and vinyl, with album art decorating the chairs. The board games attract locals, and the menu includes house-blended coffee, Banting cheesecake and gourmet sarmies.

Shavan Rahim

L’Apero 38 Long Street, 021 424 7247, www.granddaddy.co.za P12 This is a casual but sophisticated spot throughout the day. Occupying a colonial building with contemporary

Tribakery see p35

décor and plenty of windows for watching the world go by. L’Apero serves a good mix of steaks, salad and seafood.

Lola’s 228 Long Street, 021 423 0885, www.lolas.co.za P6 This Long Street stalwart is a bustling bistro with a regularly revamped blackboard menu. Fresh line fish, beef fillet with thick-cut chips, and West Coast mussels are typically on offer, and vegetarians are well catered for.

Lucky Fish & Chips 44 Long Street, 021 422 0700 P12 120 Bree Street, 021 426 4659 P2 www.luckyfishandchips.co.za Lucky Fish is the spot to satisfy that fish ’n chips craving, with a splendid menu of platters, rolls and combos.

As well as hake, snoek and calamari, it does prawn and line-fish samosas, snoek roe and grilled prawns.

Lunchworks 20-22 Waterkant Street, 021 418 3118, www.lunchworks.co.za P3 Lunchworks is all about the noon repast, with sandwiches, salads, wraps, bagels, baguettes and burgers to fill that gap. It also sells organic coffee, as well as breakfasts including eggs Benedict.

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Motherland Mandela Rhodes Place, Cnr St George’s Mall and Wale Street, 021 424 8570, www.motherlandcoffee.co.za P11 With wood-clad walls and choppingblock seats, Motherland brings a rustic feel to its modern setting. As well as good coffee, sandwiches and muffins, it sells beans by the bag, plus a collection of items such as bamboo watches.

Orchard on Long

chefs warehouse see p40

Mint Taj Cape Town, Cnr Wale Street and St George’s Mall, 021 819 2000, www.tajhotels.com P11 Opening onto pedestrianised St George’s Mall, green-tinted Mint restaurant is the casual card in the top-end Taj Cape Town hotel’s restaurant portfolio. The open-plan show kitchen and floor-to-ceiling wine rack add a touch of class, but enjoying the local and international fare is an informal experience overall.

My Basaar 16 Loop Street, 021 421 6391, www.mybasaar.co.za P3 Bernice van der Merwe feeds hungry Capetonians in this stylish little eatery with glass arches and black-andwhite chairs. The blackboard menu changes regularly, but it usually features venison pie, which is the house speciality.

The Odyssey Gastropub

Skinny Legs & All 70 Loop Street, 021 423 5403, www.skinnylegsandall.co.za P6 With a minimal interior decorated with artworks, the name of this stylish café came from its twin-sister owners’ favourite Tom Robbins novel. Based on a ‘truth to materials’ philosophy, the dishes include French toast, Moroccan meatballs and vegetarian risotto.

Diners Clarke’s Bar & Dining Room 133 Bree Street, 021 424 7648, www.clarkesdining.co.za P5 This casual diner attracts hungry hipsters with the likes of pizza sarmies, mac ’n cheese and oyster chowder. Portions are big, everything is handmade, and where possible produce is free range and organic.

Lefty’s 105 Harrington Street, 021 461 0407 P32 This self-proclaimed dive bar with its graffiti and scratched canteen tables, is a popular hangout. The nononsense bar food, such as sticky ribs and burgers, goes down a treat.

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Shavan Rahim

199 Bree Street, 021 422 4084, www.theodyssey.co.za P6 This upmarket bar-restaurant features regular live music and craft beers are available, while the menu features a good range of snacks and mains.

Burgers, steaks and battered hake – all the gastropub classics are here.

211 Long Street, 021 424 3781, www. facebook.com/orchardonlong P6 Bringing wholesome vibes to Long Street, Orchard serves a livercleansing array of juices, smoothies and health shots with enthusiastic names such as beetroot buzz, breakfast boost, recharge and electro.

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Royale Eatery 273 Long Street, 021 422 4536, www.royaleeatery.com P6 Gourmet burgers have become a staple in Cape Town – and it all began here at Royale, which serves over 50 different burgers. Sit in a diner-style booth, or head upstairs to the Amélieinspired space and balcony.

Yo! Meatballs 77 Roeland Street, 071 479 3594 P31 This diner-style temple to the meatball serves a range of the round lovelies, including interesting snoek and apricot, and salmon and dill combos. Or shoot for corndogs or Buffalo wings.

ethnic Dias Tavern

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Cape Town has fallen in love with tapas, and La Parada is the most exciting bar serving Spain’s favourite nibbles. With a top Spanish chef in the kitchen, you can’t get more authentic. Wooden tables and tiled floors create an attractive backdrop.

Mesopotamia Cnr Long and Church Streets, 021 424 4664, www.mesopotamia.co.za P11 This Kurdish restaurant serves traditional halaal dishes cooked in a tandoor oven. The atmospheric setting features antique copper tables, kilim cushions and shisha pipes. There are belly-dancing shows here and at nearby Baran’s (www.baransshishalounge.co.za).

Orinoco

15 Caledon Street, 021 465 7547 P32 There are no frills here: grab a seat (you better book!) and enjoy tasty Portuguese fare from chorizo and calamari to authentic prego rolls, mighty espetadas and excellent fish.

Fork 84 Long Street, 021 424 6334, www.fork-restaurants.co.za P12 Fork offers its own take on tapas; the dishes are designed for sociable sharing. Delicious choices include raclette fondue, Asian salmon and tiger prawns wrapped in pancetta.

17 Bree Street, 021 418 4544, www.orinocoflavours.co.za P3 Venezuelan chef Migdalia Bellorin has built a strong reputation through this deli restaurant and her stand at Earth Fair Food Market. Authentic fare and great specials make it popular.

Sababa 231 Bree Street, 021 424 7480, www.sababa.withtank.com P6 Offering Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine, Sababa’s buffet heaves with stews, curries and salads. The name is Hebrew slang for ‘awesome’.

Keenwä

Micky Hoyle

50 Waterkant Street, 021 419 2633, www.keenwa.co.za P3 This Peruvian restaurant serves tastes of Latin America in a chic environment. Dishes include tapas and traditional Peruvian specialities such as lomo saltado (spicy beef fillet).

Begin the evening with a cocktail upstairs in Pisco Bar.

La Parada 107 Bree Street, 021 426 0330, www.facebook.com/LaParadaTapas CapeTown P5

La Parada

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exotic. Expect unusual combinations that take you on a taste journey.

Savoy Cabbage 101 Hout Street, 021 424 2626, www.savoycabbage.co.za P2 This restaurant and champagne bar occupies a gorgeously renovated historic space and serves epicurean delights such as almond-crusted goat’s cheese, sugar-cured kudu and pan-fried duck breast.

Hemelhuijs

Tortilla Modern Mexican Icon Building, Cnr Lower Long Street and Hans Strijdom Avenue, 021 418 4599, www.tortillamexican.co.za P14 Tortilla offers tasty Latin American street food. A low-carb option is the naked burrito, with meat, prawns or vegetables and rice, beans, salsas, cheese and sour cream – no wrap.

Gourmet Chefs Warehouse & Canteen 92 Bree Street, 021 422 0128, www.chefswarehouse.co.za P2 Selling top kitchenware, imported produce and cookbooks galore, Chefs Warehouse serves gourmet tapas.

Downstairs, the canteen does graband-go eats including noodle boxes.

Haarlem & Hope Company’s Garden, 021 424 3774, www.madamezingara.com P10 New restaurant by the entertainment group Madame Zingara serves local fare with a gourmet twist. The kids’ play area and chess tables add appeal.

Hemelhuijs

70 Keerom Street, 021 424 3460, www.carne-sa.com P6 Carne is dedicated to South Africa’s favourite foodstuff: meat. They serve the finest cuts of Romagnola beef, Dorper lamb and game in a modern setting. Popular dishes include lamb shoulder ravioli and beef rib eye.

Headquarters 100 Shortmarket Street, 021 424 6373, www.hqrestaurant.co.za P2 This singular restaurant serves only one main: sirloin steak and thin-cut fries with Café de Paris butter. There are plenty of reasons to visit the chichi spot, not least the long list of cocktails and gourmet bar snacks.

The Famous Butchers Grill 101 Buitengracht, 021 422 0030, www.capetownlodge.co.za P1 This restaurant specialises in superior A-grade steaks matured to perfection. Other meaty dishes range from burgers to ribs, but there are vegetarian options too.

Zinza Grill House & Bar 263 Long Street, 021 422 1155 P6 This husband-and-wife operation is dedicated to affordable steaks: choose from Portuguese, Chateaubriand and jalapeño and cheese. Burgers and chicken are also on the menu, served amid bright décor.

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71 Waterkant Street, 021 418 2042, www.hemelhuijs.co.za P3 Against a backdrop of eclectic and ever-changing décor, Hemelhuijs interweaves dishes appealing to South African nostalgia with tastes of the

Grill houses Carne SA

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Indian Bombay Brasserie

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and rolled pork. The 17th century building, originally the Company’s Garden stables, offers a fine-dining experience with its exposed walls and contemporary artworks.

Taj Cape Town, Cnr Wale Street and St George’s Mall, 021 819 2000, www.tajhotels.com P11 This opulent Indian restaurant in the palatial Taj Cape Town hotel on the is one of the city’s A food p go aradise top eateries. Using awaits at Fo Market w od Lover’s only traditional it food cou h a massive ingredients, it serves rt, deli an d prod u ce sh op. Th exquisite curries own salad e build-yourand seafood dishes s are great .

122 St Geo beneath sparkling rge’s 021 425 28 Mall, chandeliers.

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Bukhara 33 Church Street, 021 424 0000, www.bukhara.com P11 This upmarket chain’s flagship branch serves modern Indian cuisine on green Updaipur marble. Dishes range from aromatic curries to charcoal-cooked meats from the tandoor oven, with a preference for northern Indian cuisine.

Masala Dosa 167 Long Street, 021 424 6772, www.masaladosa.co.za P6 This Bollywood-themed restaurant takes its name from a southern Indian breakfast dish, which consists of masala potato curry served with riceand-lentil dosa crêpes. The eatery offers a few dosa dishes, plus vegan options, roti wraps and light meals.

Col’Cacchio

Redefine North Wharf, 42 Hans Strijdom Ave, 021 419 4848, www. colcacchio.co.za P4 This pizza chain is a good choice for wood-fired gourmet beauties. Their ‘half and half’ pizzas offer a 50-50 combination of two toppings, giving you double the variety. Good salads and pasta dishes are also served.

Giancarlo’s Italian Deli 22 Bree Street, 072 467 6170, www. facebook.com/Giancarlo.Italiandeli P3 This Italian-run deli does light lunches such as pizza slices, pastas and paninis.

The little shop, stacked with tins of tomatoes and bags of pasta, is atmospheric – you could almost be in Rome.

ISOLA 72 Wale Street, 021 422 0800 P5 A warm welcome awaits at this authentic owner-run Italian trattoria.

Expect wood-fired pizzas, homemade pasta and veal dishes along with good lunchtime specials.

True Italic

Italian 95 Keerom 95 Keerom Street, 021 422 0765, www.95keerom.com P6 This Italian-owned restaurant serves Milanese dishes, including a large carpaccio selection, butternut ravioli

15 Bree Street, 021 418 7655, www.trueitalic.co.za P3 This Italian rustic café with its exposed brick walls raises pasta dishes to a fine art. Home-made pastas, Italian sausages, imported cured meats and mozzarella feature.

For more places to eat, visit www.capetowncid.co.za www.capetowncid.co.za/explore-our-cbd/eat/

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Main auditorium

The Fugard Theatre One of Cape Town’s premier theatre, bioscope and event complexes.

The 335-seater Fugard Theatre and 134-seater Fugard Studio is located within the historic Sacks Futeran building in Cape Town’s District Six, with the renovated Congregational Church Hall in Caledon Street as its entrance. Construction of The Fugard Theatre was underwritten by its founding producer Eric Abraham, and is named in honour of Athol Fugard, South Africa’s greatest playwright. The Fugard Theatre is proud to present and host the very best of both local and international productions, bioscope and events.

SEATING AND BOOKING All seating is reserved and can be booked through Computicket or through the Theatre’s box office on 021 461 4554.

SAFE PARKING Harrington Street car park is located at the corner of Caledon and Harrington streets and is available for the use of theatre patrons.

Caledon Street (Corner of Buitenkant), District Six, Cape Town

ERIC ABRAHAM AND THE FUGARD THEATRE PRESENT

ROBBINS, LAURENTS, BERNSTEIN & SONDHEIM’S

23 JULY – 23 AUGUST 2015 | ARTSCAPE OPERA HOUSE ERIC ABRAHAM AND THE FUGARD THEATRE PRESENT

MASTEROFF, KANDER & EBB’S SMASH HIT MUSICAL

FROM 10 MARCH 2015 | THE FUGARD THEATRE

p L AY

the house of machines

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MY central CITY

Nick Koumbarakis, The Alchemist at the House of Machines

MY FAVOURITE SPOTS 1. Sababa is all about uncomplicated and wholesome food. 2. Borage is a new contender with a small menu. It has a molecular/bistro feel. 3. Skinny Legs & All Luxury Café: their coffee and service are fantastic, not to mention the food.

4. Orinoco is down to earth and the food is probably the best South American food I’ve tasted in the Central City. 5. Jason: pastries for days!

I love the Central City because… Being a city of different cultures, Cape Town inspires me daily in so many different ways. There is this creative energy that I really cannot explain. Especially in the Central City, it is raw, abstract and the diverse cultures here are like an extension of its own personality.

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Andy Lund, iStock by Getty, Shavan Rahim, Supplied

This café-cum-motorbike shop’s exposed brick and red stools see regulars coming in for their house blend coffee, Evil Twin, during the day. At night, The Alchemist, Nick Koumbarakis, comes out to play with phenomenal cocktails setting the scene. Local produce to nibble on completes the picture. Sunday brunch is in the form of the El Burro food truck and bloody Marys.

84 Shortmarket Street, 021 426 1400, www.thehouseofmachines.com

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Bars & pubs Aces ’n Spades 62 Hout Street, 021 424 1620, www.acesnspades.com P12 This rocky hangout mixes a bar with a dance floor playing all the guitar greats. Bob Dylan portraits, dark timber, leather booths, psychedelic stained-glass windows and mirrors dripping with gilt create a fusion of cowboy saloon and speakeasy.

Alexander Bar & Café 76 Strand Street, 021 300 1088, www.alexanderbar.co.za P12 Its vintage furnishings include rotary telephones to contact the cutie at the next table – or dial the bartender; Alexander is brimming with old– world charm. It is jointly owned by a playwright and, upstairs, its intimate theatre hosts live music, comedy, drama, readings and more.

Beerhouse 223 Long Street, 021 424 2370, www.beerhouse.co.za P6 This temple to the amber nectar has 20 draught beers and 99 bottled, all served in an industrial-styled interior with a balcony overlooking Long Street. Local ales are well represented and the menu guides you through the differences between pilsner and porter.

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or private function. Fresh products are used in the cocktails and Belvedere Vodka awaits, as do mirror balls and a pole – so get planning your Cape Town bachelor or hen party.

The Dubliner at Kennedy’s 251 Long Street, 021 423 0910, www.kennedys.co.za P6 Every city has one: this Irish pub brings Guinness-fuelled fun to Long Street, with a long bar, tiled floor and live music evoking the Emerald Isle’s watering holes. Backpackers, locals and anyone in search of good craic pile in, and continue the night at the club upstairs.

Julep 2 Vredenburg Lane, 021 423 4276, www.julep.co.za P6 Locals crowd into this hip and intimate bar, decorated with B-movie posters and sneering rock icons, from Wednesday to Saturday. The bourbon-loaded house cocktail sums up the attitude here; the Mint Julep has long been quaffed by writers, gamblers and boozers in the American Deep South.

Cafe Mojito 265 Long Street, 021 422 1095 P6 With a red star in its punchy signage, Mojito dishes up Latin American cuisine and vibes. Pictures of Che Guevara and Ernest Hemingway overlook the tables spilling onto the pavement, where burger specials and cocktails keep the punters happy.

Shavan Rahim

Catacombs 107 Bree Street, 021 426 0330, www.facebook.com/LaParadaTapas CapeTown P5 Beneath La Parada tapas bar, Catacombs is an intimate lounge, perfect for a conversational snifter

Beerhouse

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Twankey Bar

Long Street Cafe 259 Long Street, 021 424 2464, www. facebook.com/longstreetcafe P6 Outside tables make this a great spot for people-watching or starting a night out. The neon sign is a Long Street icon and their Long Island iced tea is a favourite, particularly during happy hour (Monday to Friday 4pm to 7pm).

Murano Bar African Pride 15 on Orange Hotel, Cnr Orange Street and Grey’s Pass, 021 469 8000, www.africanpridehotels.com P10 This cocktail bar is an extraordinary piece of design, draped with 20 000 handmade Italian Murano glass links.

Atop the bar is an elevated pod, offering Table Mountain views and the feeling of floating in a chandelier.

Neighbourhood Restaurant & Bar 163 Long Street, 021 424 7260, www.goodinthehood.co.za P6 The balcony overlooking Long, interlinking rooms and pool and foosball tables attract a crowd of students, backpackers, scenesters and thirsty professionals at this deservedly popular spot.

Cnr Bree and Orphan Streets, 021 424 2004, www.theorphanage.co.za

Paparazzi Pepper Club, Cnr Loop and Pepper Streets, 021 812 8888, www.pepperclub.co.za P6 The Pepper Club hotel’s bar, with its starry ceiling and gentlemen’s club chairs, creates an atmosphere of international sophistication – celebrity visitors are often spotted here.

The Slug & Lettuce 218-224 Long Street, 021 424 7328, www.slugandlettuce.co.za P6 This small South African chain offers a jolly experience, with a rocking horse, unicycle and bookshelves overlooking the barstools. It is not an English theme park however, and some reassuringly South African shooters, snacks and mains are on offer.

Tjing Tjing 165 Longmarket Street, 021 422 4374, www.tjintjing.co.za P5 At this idiosyncratic spot, a rooftop beer garden adjoins a wood-clad attic bar. Cocktails, craft beers, draughts,

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Orphanage

This quirky cocktail bar has Jules Verne styling, and harks back to the roaring ’20s. Barmen in bowlers mix wittily named concoctions and house tipples, including an orangey mojito with mandarin-infused rum and mandarin liqueur.

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a good wine list and tapas are offered in the heritage building, accompanied by indie and electronica.

Twankey Bar Cnr Wale and Adderley Streets, 021 819 2000, www.tajcapetown.co.za P11 This refined bar’s name dates back to its days as a Temple Chamber; locals nicknamed the statue above the entrance after the pantomime dame Widow Twankey. Today, it offers cocktails, Guinness, oysters and seafood tapas at marble tables.

Sky Bar and Daddy Cool The Grand Daddy, 38 Long Street, 021 424 7247, www.granddaddy.co.za P12 The Grand Daddy hotel has a bar alongside the vintage Airstream caravans on its rooftop. Sip a beer in the quirky penthouse environment; if bling is your thing, head inside to golden Daddy Cool’s for a cocktail.

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Weinhaus + Biergarten 110 Bree Street, 021 422 2770, www.biergarten.co.za P2 The former &Union is happily unchanged under its new name, still serving Brewers & Union craft beers in a former church basement. Enjoy wine tastings, music and braai in the beer garden. New owner Jason Lilley of Jason Bakery is ramping up the food a notch or five.

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FR IN G E BENEFITS Cape Town Fringe Festival started in 2014 and boasted 11 days of entertainment in and around the Central City. Everything from comedy to music and physical theatre for young and old were on show. www.capetownfringe.co.za The Infecting the City arts festival in March transforms city spots into avant-garde performance spaces. www.infectingthecity.com //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Clubs The Assembly 61 Harrington Street, 021 465 7286, www.theassembly.co.za P32 One of Cape Town’s favourite nightspots, The Assembly occupies the expansive interiors of a renovated warehouse in the East City. It offers a varied diet of club nights, live gigs, international DJs and comedians, attracting rockers to hipsters.

The Loop 161 Loop Street, 072 539 1121, www.theloopnightclub.co.za P6 Behind its Bo-Kaap-inspired exterior, this multi-level party palace gets the dance floor hopping with RnB, pop and house from commercial to progressive. With its illuminated bar and mix of industrial and modern architecture, it’s an atmospheric nightspot.

Side Show

Catacombs see p45

11 Mechau Street, 082 077 0315 P3 Side Show is boldly continuing a vaudevillian tradition established by its predecessor, the Fez Club, which staged legendary evenings of burlesque entertainment. Every Friday, Side Show combines the best elements of club nights and theatre spectacles, mixing in trippy visuals, thundering bass and sexy dancers.

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thirtyone

The Pink Flamingo

31st floor, ABSA Centre, 2 Riebeek Street, 021 421 0581, www.thirtyone.co.za P14 Take the lift to the 31st floor of the ABSA Centre, one of Cape Town’s landmark towers, for a night of wraparound views.

At the regular Friday and Saturday shindigs and special events, the party people feel on top of the world.

The Grand Daddy, 38 Long Street, 021 424 7247, www.granddaddy. co.za P12 This outdoor cinema perches atop The Grand Daddy hotel, alongside the famous rooftop trailer park of vintage Airstream caravans. It makes an atmospheric venue to enjoy a classic flick, with blankets and hot-water bottles in winter.

Film Alliance Française

Live performance venues & classes Artscape Theatre Centre

HOT FLIC 155 Loop Street, The Enco KS DF Malan Street, 021 423 5699, unters film festiv a 021 410 9800, www.alliance.org.za takes pla l that usually ce www.artscape.

P6 much love in June, is a d event sh co.za P30 Fans of world film casing lo o w cal and A frican This multifaceted will be in Cinema documen ta performance venue Paradiso at the www.enco ries. unters. is the home of Cape Alliance Française; co.za Town Opera, Cape Town the cultural centre City Ballet and the Cape shows movies as Philarmonic Orchestra. Come part of its mission to to this 1970s complex to see local introduce Cape Town to and international performers offering le monde Francophone. There are the city’s liveliest calendar of drama, free screenings most weeks; check opera, comedy, dance and musicals. the website for details.

48 B e s t o f C a p e T o w n C e n t r a l C i t y 2 0 1 5

iStock by Getty, Supplied

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the fugard theatre has been the venue for many hit shows, including the rocky horror show

The Crypt Jazz Restaurant 1 Wale Street, 079 683 4658, www.thecryptjazz.com P11 This jazz venue has an atmospheric location in the crypt of St George’s Cathedral. Watch trios, quartets, quintets and big bands beneath the blue-lit vaults.

The Fugard Theatre Cnr Caledon and Lower Buitenkant Streets, 021 461 4554, www.thefugard.com P32 Named after the great South African playwright Athol Fugard, this theatre in the historic Sacks Futeran building is one of Cape Town’s most exciting performance venues. See everything from The Rocky Horror Show to new plays. The Bioscope adds variety.

Jazzart and Que Pasa

Jesse Kramer

Artscape Theatre Centre, DF Malan Street P30 Jazzart: 021 410 9848, www.jazzart.co.za; Que Pasa: 074 199 0918, www.quepasa.co.za Two dance troupes offer classes in the Artscape complex. Jazzart, the

Cape’s oldest contemporary dance company (established in 1973), offers weekly contemporary and Afro-fusion classes. Latin experts Que Pasa give weekly lessons in styles including Cuban, swing, salsa and tango.

UCT Drama Department UCT Hiddingh Campus, 32-37 Orange Street, 021 480 7129, www.drama.uct.ac.za P10 The University of Cape Town’s drama faculty has performance spaces on its campus near the Company’s Garden.

The 270-seat Little Theatre and the smaller, experimental Arena Theatre and Bindery Lab nurture the local student theatre scene.

The Waiting Room 273 Long Street, 021 422 4536, www. facebook.com/WaitingRoomCT P6 This venue puts on live music most nights. Bands play on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays; films, launches and DJs are offered on Wednesdays; a hip hop club night on Fridays; and house and disco on Saturdays.

For more nightlife spots, visit www.capetowncid.co.za www.capetowncid.co.za/explore-our-cbd/PLAY/

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S T AY

Freedom Walk Fan walk 2011

1

2

3 MY central CITY

by Mokena Makeka

MY FAVOURITE SPOTS 1. Heritage Square is a wonderful mix of old and new, filled with interesting eateries and art spaces. 2. Long Street for its vibrancy day and night.

3. Truth Coffee simply has the best coffee around.

I love the Central City because… it’s a multicultural space with an easy, unpretentious atmosphere. The people are interesting and our studio is within walking distance of every­thing. Architects need to be embedded in urban conditions and it’s a visually dynamic part of the city. I like being in the thick of things.

52 B e s t o f C a p e T o w n C e n t r a l C i t y 2 0 1 5

Supplied, Shaen Adey, Jurie Senekal, Shavan Rahim, Micky Hoyle/Haldane Martin

Architect Mokena Makeka heads up Makeka Design Lab, located in Cape Town’s Central City.

It focuses on concept-driven design projects that use public art and architecture for social and economic innovation and sustainable transformation. His work is seen all over South Africa in private and public spaces. www.makekadesigns.com

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Hotels Adderley Hotel 31 Adderley Street, 021 469 1900, www.adderleyhotel.co.za P19 The Adderley offers a mix of old and new, with luxurious rooms and selfcatering apartments spread across a century-old building and an 11-storey tower. The feel is urban and they have a rooftop pool, bar and restaurant.

African Pride 15 on Orange Hotel Cnr Orange Street and Grey’s Pass, 021 469 8000, www.africanpride hotels.com P10 Combining eye-catching design with chain-hotel facilities, 15 on Orange is a head-turner from when you enter via a lift with a golden armchair. There’s a pool and gym, and innovative features such as the glass-fronted pod rooms.

Cape Diamond Boutique Hotel Cnr Parliament and Longmarket Streets, 021 461 2519, www. capediamondhotel.co.za P20 This three-star hotel gains boutique credentials from the design of its 60 rooms, mixing classic with contemporary. It occupies a 1930s building, with a vault from its days as a diamond group’s HQ.

Cape Heritage Hotel

stay

a quiet street. Rooms are decorated in muted tones with thoughtful touches including in-room Wi-Fi and a safe.

Cape Town Lodge 101 Buitengracht Street, 021 422 0030, www.capetownlodge.co.za P1 Cape Town Lodge’s black-and-red exterior is a local landmark; inside are over 100 spacious and modern rooms, plus four luxury self-catering apartments ringing the rooftop pool.

The hotel’s warm colours reflect the nearby Bo-Kaap neighbourhood, and excellent service is offered.

Capetonian Hotel Pier Place, off the Heerengracht, 021 405 5670, www.raya-hotels.com P16 The Capetonian has 170 rooms with views of Table Mountain or Table Bay and two restaurants, all close to the CTICC. Accommodation ranges from neat, business-style rooms to grander suites, and it has a business centre.

Circa Hotel 14 Jetty Street, 021 431 8820, www.circahotel.co.za P15 Circa offers luxury self-catering apartments, housed in a building near the CTICC with secure basement parking and a 24-hour reception desk.

The apartments have facilities such as a plasma-screen TV and electronic safe.

90 Bree Street, 021 424 4646, www.capeheritage.co.za P2 This 17-room boutique hotel offers contemporary style and service in the historic setting of Heritage Square.

The 18th century building is a refined urban oasis of original features – with contemporary artworks throughout.

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Cape Town Hollow Boutique Hotel 88 Queen Victoria Street, 021 423 1260, www.seasonsinafrica.com P10 The green views of the Company’s Garden come with four-star facilities at this 56-room haven, tucked away on

Cape Town Hollow Boutique Hotel

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The Cullinan hotel 1 Cullinan Street, 021 415 4000, www.tsogosun hotels.com P4 Pillars rise majestically from the marble lobby, which offers a classical twist on chain-hotel opulence. A myriad facilities entertain guests in 394 rooms.

Daddy Long Legs 134 Long Street, 021 422 3074, www.daddylonglegs.co.za P6 In this art hotel, the 13 rooms have been designed by a roster of South African creative figures, with startling results. Choose from rooms themed around a karaoke booth, a hospital operating theatre or tattoos.

It has a good set of facilities including a lounge bar, restaurant, in-house bakery, indoor pool and sauna.

Daddy Long Legs Suites

The Grand Daddy

263 Long Street, 021 422 3074, www.daddylonglegs.co.za P6 These five self-catering apartments are brimming with arty cool. Colourful canvases and African décor mix with old-world elements such as oregon floors and exposed ceiling beams.

38 Long Street, 021 424 7247, www.granddaddy.co.za P12 This singular boutique hotel has a roof-top trailer park of seven vintage Airstream caravans with decorative themes. Downstairs rooms are all about modern comfort. Big revamps are planned with new décor.

Fountains Hotel 1 St George’s Mall, 021 443 1100, www.fountainshotel.co.za P18 The Fountains has attractively decorated rooms with crisp linen and modern artwork, some offering views. //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

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Harbour Bridge Hotel & Suites Roggebaai Canal, Lower Long Street, 021 431 9202, www. harbourbridgehotel.co.za P9 The city meets the sea at state-ofthe-art, four-star Harbour Bridge, which shows Cape Town from a novel angle: a seawater canal runs through part of the hotel, and guests can board passing water taxis.

Holiday Inn Express 101 St George’s Mall, 021 480 8300, www.hiexpress.com/ capetowncc P11 This midrange chain hotel offers 172 rooms, spread across 14 floors. The rooms provide comfortable motel-style accommodation, and the first-floor breakfast area and bar are pleasant.

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Supplied, Getty Images/Gallo Images

Big events in the Central City mean thousands clamouring for hotel beds. Book well in advance if you’re visiting during these happenings: • Cape Town International Jazz Festival, 27-28 March 2015, www.capetownjazzfest.com • Cape Argus Pick n Pay Momentum Cycle Tour, 8 March, www.cycletour.co.za • Cape Town Fashion Week, July, afi.za.com

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Hollow on the Square

Mandela Rhodes Place

9 Ryk Tulbagh Square, 021 421 5140, www.hollow-onthesquare.co.za P15 Hollow’s rooms come in shades of red, or, in the annexe dedicated to sustainable living, green with handcrafted bamboo furniture. Rooms in the main section have kitchenettes.

Cnr Burg and Wale Streets, 021 481 4000, www.mandelarhodesplace. co.za P11 Covering a dozen floors of a modern building, Mandela Rhodes’ spacious rooms derive a self-contained feel from their excellent facilities. In the glassy lobby are a spa, cafés and shops.

Hotel on St Georges ABSA Centre, Cnr St George’s Mall and Riebeek Street, 021 419 0811, www.hotelonstgeorges.co.za P13 St Georges has an exciting location in the ABSA Centre. Rooms are comfortable, well equipped and good value.

Inn on the Square

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Parliament Hotel 9 Barrack Street, 021 461 6710, www.parliamenthotel.co.za P21 This three-star hotel is both affordable and central. Décor is simple and unfussy, and facilities include a restaurant and undercover parking.

10 Greenmarket Square, 086 100 0333, www.innonthesquare.co.za P11 This landmark Art Deco building houses 165 funkily decorated bedrooms and facilities galore. The rooftop pool and sun deck have mountain views, and there’s a sauna, fitness centre, restaurant and bar.

Pepper Club

Kings in Cape Hotel

1 Lower Bree Street, 021 443 4600, www.proteahotels.com P4 This four-star property offers a fusion of apartment luxuries and hotel facilities with contemporary furnishings, kitchens and great views.

Amenities include a restaurant, rooftop pool, gym and parking.

33 Hout Street, 021 424 5821, www.kingsincape.com P12 Occupying a 19th century building, this Ethiopian-run hotel has a traditional restaurant and live music on Friday evenings. The 14 rooms are spacious and the staff are friendly.

stay

Cnr Loop and Pepper Streets, 021 812 8888, www.pepperclub.co.za P6 This ultra-cool urban oasis has Table Mountain views from its rooftop pool.

Some of the top facilities include a spa and piano bar.

Protea Hotel North Wharf

the westin cape town see p56

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Townhouse Hotel 60 Corporation Street, 021 465 7050, www.townhouse.co.za P22 The Townhouse is a friendly hotel and it offers many little extras, such as freshly baked biscuits with the in-room tea and coffee.

TSOGO Sun Cape Sun

Strand Tower Hotel

Southern Sun Waterfront 1 Lower Buitengracht Street, 021 409 4000, www.tsogosunhotels. com P4 This 500-room hotel boasts vase-like sculptures overlooking the pool; fish tanks ripple in the restaurant. It’s a modern and sophisticated base for exploring the Mother City.

Strand Tower Hotel

Strand Street, 021 488 5100, www.tsogosunhotels.com P13 One of the city’s most luxurious hotels, this landmark tower houses 368 rooms in an opulent atmosphere with top service. There’s a full complement of facilities and the upper rooms have uninterrupted mountain views.

Tudor Hotel

153 Longmarket Street, 021 424 1335, www.tudorhotel.co.za P11 The Tudor was established in 1750.

While this lends a certain old-world atmosphere, the stylish décor and LIKE HO amenities create a If you wan ME t a taste modern experience. of city

life, Airb nb (www.air bnb

.c Cnr Strand and Urban Chic is fast gai om) ning g ro u Loop Streets, Boutique Hotel nd, with houses and apar 172 Long Street, 021 431 7500, www. tments to rent in th 021 426 6119, strandtowerhotel. e city. www.urbanchic.co.za P6 co.za P12 This boutique gem’s name Announced by the says it all: the 20 rooms dangling legs of give European sophistication a quirky Meccano-man a Capetonian twist. Spanish marble, sculpture, the Strand Tower ticks all textured carpets and mahogany the right boxes. Its restaurant and furniture are complemented by lounge bar adjoin the pool; extras contemporary artworks throughout. include a spa and sauna.

The Westin Cape Town

Cnr Wale Street and St George’s Mall, 021 819 2000, www.tajhotels.com P11 Offering the opulence of a raja’s palace, this five-star hotel in the former Reserve Bank is replete with marble floors and excellent restaurants and bars. In the 176 rooms and suites, expect walk-in closets, dual-headed showers and Molton Brown toiletries.

Convention Square, Lower Long Street, 021 412 9999, www.westincapetown.com P9 This 483-room colossus has an impressive range of facilities behind its towering glass façade. The spa perches on the 19th floor, while there’s a range of restaurants, a sushi bar, jazz bar and cigar lounge.

56 B e s t o f C a p e T o w n C e n t r a l C i t y 2 0 1 5

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Backpackers & budget Blue Mountain Backpackers 208 Long Street, 021 424 9272, www. bluemountainbackpackers.co.za P6 The guys at Blue Mountain have created a fun hangout: comfy sofas await on the wrought-iron balcony and the accommodation includes dorms and private rooms.

Carnival Court Backpackers 255 Long Street, 021 423 9003, www.carnivalcourt.co.za P6 Offering live music in its Zanzibar pub, Carnival Court is an unbeatable party spot. The restored Victorian building has both dorms and private rooms, some opening onto the balcony.

One World Lodge 309 Long Street, 021 423 0777 P6 Located above a travel centre in a Victorian building, Cape Town’s smallest backpackers has just two rooms. Décor is an eclectic mix of orange walls and leopard skin.

Penthouse on Long 112 Long Street, 021 424 8356, www.penthouseonlong.com P6 Quirky design, heady colours and gypsy chic feature in the dorms and private rooms, while the kitchen, rooftop bar and fun staff make Penthouse a sweet base.

Scalabrini Guesthouse

305 Long Street, 021 423 7638, www.catandmoose.co.za P6 In an 18th century building, Cat & Moose is an affordable option and has a kitchen, lounge and courtyard.

47 Commercial Street, 021 465 6433, www.scalabrini.org.za P31 This guesthouse is located above the Scalabrini Centre, which provides assistance to Cape Town’s immigrants, refugees and asylum seekers. Scalabrini has dorms and private rooms, a self-catering kitchen and lounge.

All proceeds fund the centre’s work.

The Glam

Sun1 Foreshore

40 Burg Street, 021 424 1006, www.theglam.co.za P12 This silvery starlet is based on the golden days of Hollywood, with bigscreen icons overlooking the reception and black-and-white bar. Rooms have splashes of colour that complement the two-tone décor.

Jan Smuts and Martin Hammer­­schlag Way, 021 418 4664, www.tsogosunhotels.com P4 Sun1 has built a reputation for dependable budget accommodation, with rooms featuring a working area, air-conditioning and eco-lighting system. It offers 64 rooms; breakfast and free Wi-Fi complete the package.

Cat & Moose Backpackers’ Lodge

Long Street Backpackers 209 Long Street, 021 423 0615, www.longstreetbackpackers.co.za P6 A mosaic stairwell climbs to a top backpacker hostel, consisting of converted apartments around a courtyard. Cool tunes are always on the stereo and the large balconies are perfect for people-watching.

stay

Two Oceans 47 Long Street, 021 422 5401, www.twooceansbp.co.za P7 The blue-fronted hostel offers all the essentials: male and female dorms and double rooms; a kitchen, pool room and TV lounge; and a balcony with a view for penning postcards.

For more accommodation, visit www.capetowncid.co.za www.capetowncid.co.za/explore-our-cbd/stay/

B e s t o f C a p e T o w n C e n t r a l C i t y 2 0 1 5 57

PUT THE MMMMM IN EVERY MOMENT St George’s Mall 021 424 3470 Cnr St George’s & Church Sts Old City

T&Cs apply.

essentials The Central City offers a host of resources and essential services for travellers and locals alike.

CCID/Jacques Marais

GETTING AROUND Although the Central City is best explored on foot, there are other transport options. For information on public transport such as bus services, trains and parking, call the City of Cape Town’s Transport Information Centre (TIC), 24 hours on 0800 65 64 63.

Saddle up and hire a bicycle: Cape Town Cycle Hire (www.capetowncycle hire.co.za) and Bike and Saddle (www. bikeandsaddle.com). For a fun ride, hire a motorbike or scoooter at Cape Bike Rentals (186 Bree Street, 021 426 5851).

The MyCiTi buses have revolutionised transport in and around Cape Town. They’re clean, regular and easy to navigate. See our map with bus stops on page 62. Get a travel card at major stops and selected convenience stores. (www.myciti.org.za) If you want to do some sight­seeing, the CitySightseeing hop-on-hop-off

buses are a must. There’s a new centre in Long Street (see page 16) as well as a new Yellow bus route, focusing on historical sights in the city centre. (www.citysightseeing.co.za) As far as taxis go, minibus taxis are still prolific, but safety is a concern.

There are numerous metered sedan taxi companies; Rikkis (0861 745 547/021 441 3559; www.rikkis.co.za) offers shuttle, sharecab and door-todoor services; and international brand Uber (www.uber.com) is a top option.

Getting into the city by train is a task done by thousands of commuters every day. If you want to take a train trip on Metrorail (021 449 6478, www.metrorail.co.za) from the Cape Town Railway Station in Adderley Street, travel during peak times and on first class. Don’t take any valuables and report any incidents to the Railway Police (021 443 4325).

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essenti a l s

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HEALTH & SAFETY Chemists

Barrs Pharmacy 58 Strand Street, 021 421 6756 Culemborg Pharmacy 7 Heerengracht, 021 425 3925 Lite-Kem Pharmacy 24 Darling Street, 021 461 8040 Olsen’s Pharmacy 129 Long Street, 021 423 6168

Optometrists Mullers Optometrists 104 Longmarket Street, 021 461 6254 Specsavers 52 St George’s Mall, 021 424 4064 The Saban Spec Co. 22 Bree Street, 021 418 1191

Security

Lasermed 181 Bree Street, 021 424 5078, www.lasermed.co.za

The CCID has a large contingent of uniformed security guards that patrol the Central City. The 24-hour number is 082 415 7127. CCTV, monitored parking marshalls and these guards have greatly improved security in the Central City. Do continue to use common sense as you would in any big city: don’t walk alone at night, draw money in a quiet area, or flash cash, jewellery or cameras.

Marie Stopes Clinic 91 Bree Street, 021 422 4096

Cape Town Central Police Station 021 467 8001

Netcare Christiaan Barnard Memorial Hospital 181 Longmarket Street, 021 480 6271/2 Accident And Emergency Room: 021 480 6171/2 Toll-free line: 0801 22 22 22

Consumer Protector 0800 007 081

Tothills Chemist & Photoshop 18 Lower Burg Street, 021 421 6757

Clinics & hospitals

Dorp Street Reproductive Health Clinic 3 Dorp Street, 021 483 4662

Netcare Travel Clinic Room 1107, 11th Floor, Picbel Arcade, 58 Strand Street, 021 419 3172, www.travelclinic.co.za

Disabled Major attractions and hotels in the Central City are disabled friendly, but smaller establishments may not have wheelchair facilities.

Emergencies ER24 (private EMS) 084 124 General emergencies 107 from a landline, 112 from a cellphone National Aids Helpline 0800 012 322, www.aidshelpline.org.za Netcare (private EMS) 0860 638 2273 Poison Information 0800 333 444 Police 10111

Metro Protection Service 021 449 4336

RESOURCES Internet Wi-Fi is widely available, not only at hotels, but many cafés and restaurants offer free services to guests.

Electronics

Cameraland 70 Long Street, 021 423 4150 Cape Cellular Repair Centre Cnr Plein and Darling Streets, 021 462 0978 Cell C 58 Strand Street, 021 421 9092 Incredible Connection 2 Lower Loop Street, 021 441 2420, www.incredible.co.za MTN 30 St George’s Mall, 021 418 3593, 083 222 7319 Virgin Mobile 31 Adderley Street, 021 465 6516

Western Cape Ambulance 10177

Vodacom 58 Strand Street, 021 421 0090

Western Cape Mountain Rescue Services 021 948 9900

Hardware, locksmiths & specialty

Western Cape Sea Rescue Services 021 449 3500

AAA Lazer Security 18 Hans Strijdom Avenue, 021 425 9966

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e sse nti al essenti als

CD Fox 80 Hout Street, 021 423 5206 Coastal Hire 186A Bree Street, 021 424 4902 Gordons Hardware & Power Tool Centre 42 Long Street, 021 424 2350 Hardware Centre 14 Bree Street, 021 421 7358/62 Heddle Hardware 120 Shortmarket Street, 021 424 6881 Levers And Locks 29 Loop Street, 021 425 3841 Key Boutique 283 Long Street, 021 424 5877, 073 180 2487 Master Keys 9 Riebeek Street, 021 419 6880

Bodytec 42 Hans Strijdom Avenue, 021 418 1523

laundry, dry-cleaning, shoe repairs

Bowman Cycles 125 Buitengracht, 021 423 2527

I Love My Laundry 59 Buitengracht, 074 992 1481 50 Buitenkant Street, 078 105 6280 14 Bree Street, 073 939 7619

Curves 80 Strand Street, 021 418 0674

Barksole 9 Riebeek Street, 021 421 7803

Nannucci 103 Parliament Towers, Plein Street, 021 465 5127

Money matters The Central City has over 120 ATMs. Major branches of all the banks in South Africa are also here. Report lost or stolen cards: American Express 0800 991 021 Diners Club 0860 346 377 MasterCard 0800 990 418 VISA 0800 990 475

Postal services There are a couple of branches of the South African Post Office (www.post office.co.za) in the city: 2 Roggebaai and 10 Pepper Street. Postnet (0860 767 8638, www.postnet.co.za) is another, private option: 2 Long Street, St George’s Mall, 1 Mostert Street.

Sport utilities, gyms Supplied

ccid security

360 Specialised Training 31 Martin Hammerschlag Way, 021 418 1072 Action Cycling 30 Waterkant Street, 021 425 6830

City Bowl Fitness 12 Loop Street, 079 760 0399, 021 421 4617

East City Boxing 104 Harrington Street, 021 462 0009 Jack Lemkus 26 St Georges Mall, 021 425 2166 Mikes Sports 94 Strand Street, 021 418 1811 Pound For Pound Boxing Gym 48 Bloem Street, 021 423 6194 Revolution Cycles 171 Bree Street, 021 423 5191 Virgin Active 21 Lower Long Street, 021 421 5857 Zone Fitness 34 St George’s Mall, 021 418 1253

Tipping Tipping is standard practice. Waiters get around 10-15%, taxi drivers about 10% and porters R10 a bag.

Tourist information For advice on accommodation, sights, trips in and around the city as well as where to eat and drink, Cape Town Tourism is a one-stop shop.

Cnr Castle and Burg Streets, 0861 322 223, 021 487 6800, www.capetown.travel

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10 000-hectare Game Reserve - Luxury Lodge