Beyond Obvious

BEYOND THE OBVIOUS

Tear up the standard list of must-dos and grab our alternative guide to Santorini instead.

BY ALEXANDRA TZAVELLA

EXPERIENCE

EXPERIENCE

FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD

If you prefer unspoiled natural beauty to modern amenities, there are plenty of Santorini beaches that are free of sun loungers, beach umbrellas and seaside bars. A favorite with the adventurous is Koloumbo in the north, where swimsuits are optional. Park on the main road and walk 10 minutes down the grassy path. (Around 8km offshore, there’s an active submarine volcano with the same name!) In the northeast, Pori, a sandy beach that locals love, requires descending about 50 steps. Little-known Almyra in the south can be accessed via a dirt road. In the northwest, Katharos could be called a compromise of sorts; it has a simple beach bar and some sun loungers, but it also has plenty of quiet spots for your towel.

Pyrgos: The upper square, near the entrance to the Kasteli, and Right: The Symposion Cultural Center at Megalohori.

EXPERIENCE

HEADING INLAND

In the lesser-known settlements of Santorini, there’s plenty to explore as you wander through labyrinthine alleys medieval districts, or kastelia, that crown so many of the village hilltops.

PYRGOS

Once the island’s capital and still its highest settlement, Pyrgos is built around one of the short ascent is required, but you’ll be rewarded with sights such as the and panoramic views of the nearby boutique cafés, elegant restaurants, and small art galleries.

MEGALOHORI

It’s worth spending time in Megalohori, in the island’s southern grape country. Two of the most well-known wineries, the traditional winery of Gavalas and the impressive rock-hewn winery of Venetsanos, are located here. The village’s central cobblestone road was once a riverbed; even today, it’s still referred to as the “River.” Dusk here is beautiful, and there are a number of churches with intricate belfries, including the Church of Zoodohos Pigi and the Church of Panaghia in the main square. From the veranda of the restaurant Feggera, you’ll be able to hear the horses crossing the “River,” and the musical sounds of traditional Cycladic bagpipes and ancient phorminxes emanating from the vaulted interiors of the nearby Symposion Cultural Center (symposionsantorini. and Yiannis Pantazis, will happily take you on a guided tour of the cultural center and its environs. Yiannis makes musical instruments and gives music lessons and concerts in the center’s performance chamber. Make sure to check out the leather souvenirs from Transit objects at the pottery studio Earth and Water, home to

EMPORIO (24km from Oia)This used to be the commercial hub of Santorini. Today, it’s the largest village on the island, an enchanting maze of small houses, arches, and passageways so narrow at some points that only one person can squeeze through at a time. Following the signposts uphill, you’ll come to the kasteli, where the façades of the tightly packed houses form part of the fortification. Before leaving, take time for a Greek coffee at one of its two traditional cafés, among the most charming on the island.

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The best time to visit the villages is either in the morning or at sunset, when most other visitors to Santorini have taken up viewing positions on the caldera’s edge.

its shaded courtyard is the perfect place for a relaxing break.

Right: The spectacular Fira-Oia trail.

EXPERIENCE

TAKE A HIKE!

Santorini isn’t an obvious destination for hikers, but its walking paths hold many unexpected delights. The island’s most scenic trail is a 9.8km cobblestone route (hiking level: moderate to partly difficult that follows the rim of the caldera and connects Fira and Oia. Along the way, there are two places where you can stop for water and a rest; you’ll probably meet fellow walkers there.

If, however, you’re after a road less traveled, try looking inland: follow the old path that connects Pyrgos to the tourist-free settlements of Exo Gonia and Episkopi Gonia, where you’ll discover ghostly neighborhoods of rock-hewn dwellings abandoned after the earthquake of 1956.

Another option is the trail between Vothonas and Messaria, whose highlights include the Argyros Mansion, open to visitors; the Chapel of Panaghia Sergena, carved into a cliff-face; and one of the island’s most impressive ravines.

For the past 20 years, Nikos Boutsinis of Santorini Walking Tours (santoriniwalkingtours.com, Tel. (+30) 697.160.3600, (+30) 228.603.6496) has trekked the length and breadth of Santorini, revealing the island’s villages and their secrets to the groups he guides. Depending on the route you choose, there are stops at a local brewery, a winery, or for cooking lessons. His company also organizes private guided tours, tailor-made to his clients’ interests. Each tour lasts about four hours.

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EXPERIENCE

NET WORK

Volcanic beaches; a rock that resembles the face of a Native American; one of Greece’s oldest lighthouses, which — still operational — stands nobly on the precipice of a cliff… You’ll spot all these sights and more, as you try your skill at open-sea fishing.

Anthi Arvaniti is your captain as you sail the seas off southern Santorini. The name of her traditional caique is Giorgaros – or “Big George,” her grandfather’s nickname. He was a fisherman, like most of the members of her family. After completing her studies in philosophy, Anthi returned to the island where she grew up. Today, she organi es incredible fishing excursions that begin either in the morning – which sees you raising nets cast the previous evening – or in the afternoon – enjoying the spectacular sunset at sea. The trip is a hands-on adventure; you ll learn how to bait fishing lines, remove fish from nets, and properly descale and gut a fish. Above all, however, you’ll discover what it means to respect the sea. sing low-impact fishing methods, you’ll catch everything from red mullet to scorpionfish, parrotfish and little red shrimp, all to be cooked on the spot (fried or grilled) and served accompanied by Santorinian wines and fresh vegetables.

Book your trip with Giorgaros Fishing ours on santorini-fishing-tours. com, Tel. (+30) 6982.938.213. The cost per person is €145 (includes the meal and transportation to and from your hotel), while private, specially tailored experiences can also be arranged.

A PLACE IN THE SUN

You don’t have to be swept along by the human river of sunset worshipers who head for the Kastro of Oia every afternoon. Instead, if you leave Oia and walk for 10 minutes on the path towards Fira, you’ll come to the charming Church of Mikros Profitis Ilias, where the sunset views are equally spectacular. The perfect spot from where to admire the small white houses and blue domes of Oia is at the edge of the village, before the desalination plant. Stay on a while to see the lights of Oia gradually come on as the stars come out. Capture the moment with a time-lapse video.

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Check online for sunset times and set off as late as possible for Oia, to arrive after all the buses have parked. Then, be sure to relax and watch the moonrise, too, so as to avoid postsunset traffic on the return trip.

UNDERWATER WORLD

The stunning beauty of Santorini isn’t limited to the land; it also extends to the sea depths that so impressed Jacques Cousteau back in 1975 when he was searching for the lost city of Atlantis in the caldera. Thanks to the exceptional underwater visibility (25-35m), the mild water temperature (up to 24°C in summer), and the submarine topography, Santorini is considered one of the best places in the Mediterranean for scuba diving. As you descend into the caldera, you’ll discover firsthand the form taken by the petrified lava after the massive prehistoric eruption. You’ll see volcanic chimneys and the walls of the islets of Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni, as well as volcanic step formations that begin at the surface and reach a depth of 150m. One mustsee is the Mansel Reef, featuring caverns, a great wall, overhangs and canyons, as well as three shipwrecks, two of which can be reached even by beginners. You’ll also get close-up views of marine creatures such as amberjacks, sea turtles and sponges.

INFO

ATLANTIS OIA Oia, atlantisoia.com, Tel. (+30) 22860.711.58, (+30) 693.149.1395 (WhatsApp)

PADDLE POWER

sea caves, and imposing rock formations are all on the itinerary as you paddle your kayak along the southern coast of Santorini. But there will be surprises as well; for one thing, you’re likely to encounter plenty of members of the animal kingdom, as you reach the shore, partridges and rabbits. If you’re in good physical condition, it’s worth paddling into the caldera or to the edge of the bay at Kamari on the southeast coast, to see the abandoned rock-hewn hermitages of Mesa Vouno, all trips is Santorini Sea Kayak (santoriniseakayak.com, time for swimming, cliff jumping, snorkeling, and picnic lunches (there’s also a tour suitable for families with kids are highly experienced kayakers who’ve been exploring pick-ups and drop-offs at your hotel and offers a selection “must” experiences.

SEIZE THE REINS

Whether you’re a skilled rider or have zero equestrian experience but still dream of a movie-like horseback ride on the beach, you’ll have a story to tell for years about your experience on the less touristy side of Santorini. Family-owned Santorini Horse Riding (santorini-horseriding.com, Tel. (+30) 698.953.0430) offers three main excursions that give visitors fresh insights into the island. Manos, Taxiarchis, Apollonas and Argyro are just four of the 20 horses that are waiting to take you from Megalohori, the village where the stables are located, through uncharted trails, past vineyards, down impressive gorges, and along romantic beaches, with possible stops at wineries for wine tasting. Inexperienced riders will be shown the dos and don’ts, while all guests are given time to acquaint themselves with their mounts before they set off. Children must be chaperoned by a parent or guardian. Private excursions (ideal for couples) are also an option. Experience Horse Riding (experiencehorseriding.com, Tel. (+30) 697.554.1447) is another company offering horseback riding tours, including the 8.5km “Elegant” tour to the inland area around Akrotiri; the route runs through vineyards and past picturesque chapels, winding up on the black sand of Almyra Beach. The “Deluxe” tour lets you experience your own “film moment,” riding into the sunset on Eros Beach in Vlychada. Rides are priced at €60 and €90, last one and two hours respectively, and can include dinner upon request (for an additional €30). Children aged 5-8 must ride together with a parent or guardian.

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2. Strolling around Kera’s quiet alleys, where time seems to have stopped.

3. The picturesque port of Korfos and the stairs that lead up to the village of Manolas, also known as Hora.

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THE ‘‘LITTLE SISTER’’

Small, untouched and largely unknown, a perfect little place with amazing views just a short boat ride from Greece’s most disembark at the small harbor of Riva, you’re in a completely different Greece, one that looks like something from an old photograph; it’s rural, out of the way and utterly charming. Manolas is the island’s capital; with its well-tended homes and courtyards, it stands sentry over the majestic caldera and reminds us that once, before the big volcanic eruption, Santorini and tiny Thirasia were part of a single island, known as Strongyli. For this reason, the geology and soil composition of the two islands are similar. Standing in the houses and wine presses dug into the rock attest to a livelier wonderful murals. There are also some amazing hiking trails while others lead past drystone walls and plateaus to old chapels, replanted vineyards, small commercial enterprises, and lonely capes and monasteries that sparkle under the bright Cycladic sun. When you get hungry, head down to the seaside village of Korfos, the island’s former port, to one of you can enjoy with your bare feet resting on the soft sand.