Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20 issue

Czechia

J a p a n

Munich

Yu c a t a n

C h i n a

Traveller C

A

N

A

D

I

A

N

W O R L D

WINTER 2019-20

ALREADY 18 YEARS

E

xploring the hidden gems in

xtraordinary

xtremadura

Welcome to World Traveler

Published by Canadian World Traveller 5473 Royalmount, suite 224 TMR (Montreal) Qc H4P 1J3 American World Traveler 347 5th Ave, suite 1402 New York, NY 10016 Tel: 1-855-738-8232 www.worldtraveler.travel info@worldtraveler.travel info@canadianworldtraveller.com info@americanworldtraveler.com Publisher Michael Morcos Editor-in-chief Greg James Contributing Editor David J. Cox Graphic Department Al Cheong Advertising Department Leo Santini Marketing Department Tania Tassone Distribution Royce Dillon

Senior Travel Writers: Susan Campbell Steve Gillick Regular Contributors: Habeeb Salloum Jennifer Merrick Olivia Balsinger Mike Cohen Ilona Kauremszky Natalie Ayotte Jasmine Morcos Daniel Smajovits Cherie DeLory Lisa TE Sonne Alexandra Cohen Johanna Read Mathieu Morcos Gregory Caltabanis Anne-Marie Macloughlin

Disclaimer: World Traveler has made every effort to verify that the information provided in this publication is as accurate as possible. However, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from the information contained herein nor for any information provided by our advertisers.

I

n this issue, we start our world-wide adventure in the orient with a visit to Japan to find Niigata, ‘The Heartbeat of Sado Island’, as well as get some insight into the upcoming Tokyo 2020 summer games. We then head to China to taste some deliciously spicy Sichuan Cuisine in the province of the same name.

Much further east we jet-off to Europe with a full itinerary. Starting in the far north, we visit the small up and coming destination of Estonia. In central Europe, we visit the fairytale cities of the Czech Republic, have some home cooking in Budapest and experience the old and new in Munich.

While still in Europe, our journey takes a new twist with two cruises. The first is upon the canals of Europe to find the secrets of luxury barging through Italy, Scotland, Holland and France. Next, we enjoy a Mediterranean ocean cruise to find a ‘Romantic Europe on the Reimagined ‘Crystal Serenity’’. Lastly, we head to out to ‘Explore the hidden gems in extraordinary Extremadura’, in the Spanish south-west.

Onwards, we head to North America and experience two different kinds of cruises on opposite ends of the continent. In Alaska, we ‘UnPlug with UnCruise’ and find both beauty and serenity before partaking in a Bahamas cruise aboard Norwegian Cruise Lines newest ship the ‘Encore’.

While in the Caribbean we visit Cuba’s less traveled but fascinating natural wonders.

Close by we find the best of ‘Mexico’s Magical Yucatan State’ before heading to the opposite end of this beautiful county, to the Pacific coast to get ‘A Peek Inside the Los Cabos International Film Festival’.

Finally, we end our voyages of discovery in the USA by ‘California Dreaming in Anaheim’ to some exciting and diverse offerings before we head inland to the state of Idaho to enjoy some refreshing home brew and find this is no ‘fly over state’.

Happy travels!

Destinations

Crusing section

34

Czechia

Anaheim

8

12

Japan 10

Sichuan

64

Cruise News UnCruise Sky Princess Crystal Serenity Luxury Barges NCL Encore

Stay & Play - 50 t h e Yu c a t a n 6 6

Spain

68

Los Cabos

The Mansion Hotel, Bali

A ro u n d t h e Wo r l d 1 4

8

Fa i r y t a l e C z e c h c i t i e s a n d t o w n s Article and photography by Michael Morcos

B

eyond the historic, beautiful and much traveled Prague is another Czech Republic waiting to be explored. There you will be away from the many tourist buses, packed streets and the hordes found at the major attractions and instead to a place that could easily be describe as fairytale destination.

Our travels would bring us to cities and towns that most have never even heard of. The likes of Litomysl, Olomouc and Brno. These are just a few of the many charming villages and towns that are waiting to be discovered. The drive away from Prague was a delight on its

own, with a lush countryside of rolling hills, forests, farms and tranquil villages, I enjoyed every moment and looked forward to what was a wonderful tour of the Czech Republic.

Litomysl Imagine this setting in Litomysl, a quaint Public Square, cobblestone streets, a beautiful Renaissance chateau, a renowned music composer, a mad artist’s house and on this warm, sunny day: a joyous wedding celebration and a quaint village festival. Could not have scripted this visit any better.

Litomysl Castle is one of the largest Renaissance castles in the Czech Republic. It is owned by the Czech state. Fans of castles will appreciate that it is a wonderful and outstanding example of the arcade castle, with HighBaroque features added in the 18th century.

All these qualities have led to the chateau being added to the UNESCO world heritage list in 1999. The chateau has one more secret, which is a Baroque theatre with wellpreserved Baroque scenery and costumes.

The historically significant architecture continues in the magnificent Old town hall, originally built in 1418, with its clock tower is among the main features of the town’s skyline. Added

to this is the unique Josef Vachala street, a colorful narrow street with a classic archway and black and white pictures all along the wall.

Olomouc A fairytale setting indeed. In my time in Olomouc I would enjoy incredible beauty and history though the well preserved and incredibly clean historic center and I would have this city’s magnificent restored buildings and small alleys virtually to myself. Luckily, and for the time being, Olomouc is practically devoid of tourists and so I would only share this wonderful experience with the cheery, helpful locals.

Lunch, as in all our Czech meals throughout this trip, was amazing, hearty, tasty and delicious. All our lunches went down well with one of any of the great Czech beers. One meal saw us visit the Long Story Short Hostel and Café which is situated on a hill and the alfresco dining space gave wonderful views of a park. In the fresh air we would feast on local favorites.

Olomouc is full of some of the most beautiful Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque religious sights thanks to its history. These types of buildings are why the city was considered the seat of Catholic archbishops since the Middle Ages, and its history is just waiting to be discovered!

With each step, visitors are surprised by the large number of important and majestic monuments – imposing and picturesque churches, rich palaces of the burghers, monumental monasteries.

Filled with amazing features for all tastes, the city is home to the Column of the Holy Trinity, a UNESCO site and a Baroque monument celebrating the Catholic Church and faith.

The column was also meant to represent local patriotism, since all artists and craftsmen working on it were Olomouc citizens.

Next up is the Archbishop’s Palace, the site of many historic events featuring Emperors, Russian tsars, Empresses and Popes.

Constructed in the 17th century, the tour you can go on will explore the well-preserved decorations from the Rococo, Empire, and Neo-

Baroque periods.

9

The Archdiocesan Museum boasts a permanent exhibition introducing the spiritual culture of the Olomouc Archdiocese. A picture gallery shows marvelous paintings collected

by Olomouc bishops since the 16th century and the "Mozarteum" concert hall is a main feature of this dazzling museum. It was named to commemorate the stay of the famous composer at this place.

Brno Yes, another day and another amazing Czech city! Brno is the second biggest Czech city and although it has a sizeable population with a tram system and department stores, you would never feel this from vising the historic city center as it is clean, organized and rather tranquil.

My accommodations could not be any better situated nor more opulent as the Barceló Brno Palace. The beautiful building itself is a historic landmark that went through extensive renovations and is a star hotel property in Brno and being so well situated I would venture about and return several times to rest and refresh.

Spilberk Castle is a 13th century castle built on the hilltop that was gradually turned into a huge Baroque citadel, once considered the harshest prison in the Austro-Hungarian empire and made famous by many of the country’s stories and tales.

The Brno Vegetable Market, nicknamed Zelňák, has been a place where the local citizens have bought fruit, vegetables, flowers, and more for over a century. Visitors can head to the lower part of the square where they can enter an underground labyrinth, a unique system of passages and cellars from the Middle Ages. The square also features a huge Baroque fountain, called ‘Parnas’ and the Reduta, one of the oldest theatre buildings in central Europe, watched over by a statue of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

Moving deeper into the city, visitors can enjoy the Old City Hall Observation Tower, with a reputation built on numerous old myths and legends associated to it. The Old Town Hall is the oldest and most interesting historical

building in Brno, even though it was the venue for council meetings and court proceedings. It has seen thousands of official ceremonies and hosted notable guests. It was also the town hall’s city jail.

Nuclear Shelter 10-Z is one of the most unique places a world traveler can visit. Once a nuclear bomb shelter, this underground structure is now a retro hotel, and not much has been changed from the original layout!

The rooms still have the original bunk beds and half-century-old phones to contact the reception area. It is a unique opportunity to get a real in-person experience of a life in shelter!

Last night in fairytale land and last one in Brno would have me bar hopping to some out of the norm establishments where the mixologists prepared just about anything you desire. So was it on our last and maybe best place: the Super Panda Circus could only be described as sort of a ‘speak easy’ and even thought do not even have a website nor a street sign, they are a very popular bar.

Imagine yourselves in a place resembling something from an Alice in Wonderland setting with hosts dressed like figures from an adventure comic book and you can understand why this was such a memorable night.

A visit to the Czech Republic would not be complete without a visit to some of the rural and out of the way destinations. Our tour brought us to world other then what is viewed and visited by the masses through-out Europe. And for now at least, they can be yours to explore and clam as your own fairytale land. www.czechtourism.com

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

10

The Heartbeat of Sado Island, Niigata, Japan Article and photography by Steve Gillick

M

asami “Sami” Miyazaki greeted us at the Tatakokan, the Sado Island Taiko Center. While ‘Taiko’ refers to any type of drum, the word is often associated with the famed Kodo drummers who perform around the world and in fact, Kodo Village lies next to Tatakokan.

On the way there, we drove on some fairly isolated roads, past orchards bursting with brilliant orange persimmons and glimpses of autumn colors emerging on the treelined slopes of the Kosado Mountains.

Sami explained that Kodo means “heart-

beat” and mirrors the power of nature in the trees, mountains and wind. She noted that historically, drumming established an auditory connection between the gods and the local people.

And to prove the point she produced thunder from “Yama imo Kun”, one of the two huge drums made from a 600 year old Zelcova tree, and named for its resemblance to a sticky mountain potato. Trying my own hand on percussion only made me appreciate the skill and hours of practice it took Sami to produce the Kodo heartbeat of nature that was in fact all around us.

In the past, Sado Island was known for its isolation. Beginning in the early 8th century it was regarded as a place of exile for court nobles who criticized the government and dissidents such as Zeami who popularized Noh theatre and Nichirin Shionen, the founder of the Nichirin School of Buddhism.

However today, traveling voluntarily to Sado Island is relatively easy. It’s roughly a 2 ½ hour train ride from Tokyo Station to Niigata on the north coast of Honshu (Japan’s main island), and from there it’s a short bus or taxi ride to the Sado Island

Ferry where a jetfoil takes one hour to arrive at the port of Ryotsu. (There’s also a car ferry that takes about 2 ½ hours to reach the island).

Our goals for this visit were simple. We wanted to explore as much of the butterfly shaped Island as possible, from Big Sado (the northern wing) to Small Sado in the south, indulge in the island’s renowned fresh seafood and some of the six sake breweries, visit historic temples and shrines, take tons of photos…and find the endangered Toki. We did it all!

Throwing our luggage into our rented pale green Nissan March, it was simply a matter of following the coast road north to the very tip of Big Sado. ‘Futatsugame’, meaning two turtles, is a gigantic rock joined to the mainland by a small spit. Known as one of the 100 best swimming places in Japan, the area offers nature trails and beautiful coastal scenery. In fact the Kaifu Coast, which stretches along Big Sado, is a showcase of absolutely stunning vistas that include dramatic rock shapes, crashing waves and picturesque highway tunnels and bridges.

At Sado Hakko Kabushiki Gaisha sake brewery, the speciality is milky/cloudy sakes (Nigori) that have been coarsely filtered to allow rice particles to remain in the liquid.

This increases both the flavour and the mouth-feel. We sampled four sakes from ‘smooth’ to almost ‘chewy’, due to the thick rice content.

We overnighted at the Tabino Hotel in Sado City which turned out to be a wise decision.

When we asked about local dining spots, the hotel manager, Mitsuru Sasaki, drove us to an excellent local Kaiten Sushi restaurant called Maruishi. (Kaiten refers to the sushi dishes being displayed on a conveyor belt).

In this case the chef said he would prepare the dishes, fresh, as we ordered them. And so after an appetizer of Kintsuru, a delicious clear, dry Sado Island sake, we ordered about two dozen different dishes, all of which arrived on coloured plates, with each color representing the price of the dish. At

the end of the meal, the plates are added up, along with the empty sake bottles to produce the bill. Our meal included ultrafresh, melt-in-the mouth kampache (yellowtail), buri (amberjack), octopus, tuna belly, sardine, ikura (salmon roe), uni (sea urchin), whitefish and more.

Tokis were the priority the next morning as we were eager to discover more about Island life. The Japanese Crested Ibis was declared extinct in Japan in 2003, but then, with a pair on loan from China, the population rebounded and can now be found exclusively in the rice fields of Sado Island.

The closest rice fields just happened to be five minutes from the hotel. Camera zoom lenses were brought out and in no time at all we found ourselves alone in golden yellow rice fields, with the purple haze of mountains in the distance, and a small flock of white/pink-feathered, red-faced, long-billed Tokis, feeding, socializing and preening in front of us. Birders take note!

And on the theme of discovery we then set out to see the famous split-mountain by the Sado Gold Mine. Mining dates back to the early 1600’s when the Tokugawa Shogunate minted gold coins on Sado.

Gold veins were accessed by tunnels and found on mountain sides; hence the ‘split’.

At the visitors center, the self-guided visit includes a walk through one of the tunnels where life-sized dioramas, complete with action figures (the signs ask you not to touch the robots), reveal the working conditions, the very basic tools used to dig the long tunnels, and even the feelings of the men (“I want to see my girlfriend and I want to drink sake as soon as I can leave this place”). It’s extremely well done. In the gold museum, you can try your hand (literally) at lifting a 12.5 kilo bar of gold through an opening in the display case.

And to complete the mining adventure, there are picturesque ruins of some of the mining facilities in Aikawa, a short drive away.

Heading toward Small Sado, we stopped for lunch at Sakana Dojo Nagahamaso, a restaurant on the water’s edge, renowned

11

for its excellent seafood, and then after drumming at Tatakokan, we drove to the historic village of Shukunegi.

It was here that wooden cargo ships called ‘kitamaebune’ were built in the mid-17th century. The importance of the village was formally acknowledged in 1991 for its traditional close-quartered houses, many with shingled roofs held down by stones, and including the postcard-famous image of the Triangle House (it was moved to the village but had to be reconstructed to fit into a triangular lot).

On our last morning on Sado Island we visited some of the historic temples and shrines. Myousenji Temple has a rare FiveStory Pagoda along with a small lake garden. To enter Sado Kokubunji Temple you have to pass by the scowling, protective Nio guardians. The Ozen Shrine is next to a beautiful outdoor Noh Theatre, and the utterly amazing Seisuiji Temple, with its main hall dating to 1730, is dreamily accessed by a stone path lined with 400 year old Cedar trees.

The heartbeat of Sado Island translates into the voices of the friendly Islanders, the colorful history and culture, the fresh seafood, the resonance of a Taiko drum, a glimpse of a Toki, and the sensation of the wind as you gaze at the spectacular, rugged coastal scenery. This was by far, one of the most enjoyable and inspiring trips we’ve ever taken in Japan. www.ilovejapan.ca

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

12

Visit Dana Point

California Dreaming in Anaheim

by Jennifer Merrick

W

hat is it about California that attracts dreamers?

Take Anaheim, for example. Located about an hour south of Los Angeles, this region’s landscape and sunny climate has ignited utopian fantasies throughout its history. In 1857, German immigrants purchased land with the ambitious aim of a co-operative wine-making venture. In 1876, Polish aristocrats and artists packed up their belongings, books and jewels and journeyed here to live out their romanticized notions of returning to nature.

“What wild dreams we dreamt,” wrote actress Helena Modrzejewska in her memoir.

“I was to give up the stage and live in the midst of nature…under the blue skies of California.”

Unlike the successful German wine-makers, the commune quickly dissolved. Almost a century later, one of America’s most famous visionaries, Walt Disney, purchased 160

acres of land in the area with the idea of building “The Happiest Place on Earth”.

milk, building a custom lightsaber and assembling a droid.

Disneyland opened its doors in 1955, and visitors have been coming in droves ever since. In 2018, Anaheim welcomed a staggering 24.4 million visitors, who came to fulfill their own dreams. And there are plenty of ways to do that for every generation of the family.

Immerse yourself in the magic of movies

Fly the Millennium Falcon

Star Wars Galaxy Edge opened last May at Disneyland (and in Orlando in August) to rave reviews. Whether you’re a diehard fan or are just vaguely familiar with the Han Solo and Chewbacca crowd, you’ll be impressed with this recreation of the Black Spire Outpost. The flagship attraction to their new expansion is the life-sized replica of the Millennium Falcon, which takes visitors on an interactive, intergalactic smuggling mission.

Other cool experiences include drinking blue

It’s worth the hour drive to see your favourite films come to life on a grand scale at Universal Studios, Hollywood.

For Potterheads, there’s the Wizarding World of Harry Potter, where you can wander the laneways of Hogsmeade amidst the snowcovered buildings and the castle itself.

Indulge your inner wizard by choosing a wand at Ollivanders Wand Shop, sipping butter beer at the Three Broomsticks Restaurant or going on a 3D interactive adventure. Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey sweeps you through the dark forest and into a heart-stopping Quidditch match.

A classic attraction is the Universal Studio Tour, which supercharges riders into a highstakes race before catapulting into the jungle, where King Kong himself is waiting.

13

Universal Studios

Visit Annaheim

treatments that included vitamin-infused facials, tides and stone massages and sea clay body wraps.

Ride the Wild West

Before Mickey Mouse, there was Knott’s Berry Farm, California’s original theme park. Here the Wild West beckons with pistol-carrying costumed characters, saloons, general stores and even gold panning.

Rides range from an easy journey through gold mining history to the adrenaline pumping HangTime coaster, with the steepest drop in the state. Next door is Knott’s Soak City Waterpark with 22 slides plus the 750,000-gallon Tidal Wave Bay pool. Whatever your family decides to do, don’t forget to try the Knott’s fried chicken and a piece of Boysenberry pie. After all, it was a berry roadside stand and restaurant that first attracted visitors to this family fun attraction.

Indulge in retail therapy

From high-end fashion to bargain finds, Orange County has no shortage of retailers. Fashion Island in Newport Beach and South Coast Plaza are destinations themselves for shoppers with dining and special events. For retail treasure hunters, there’s the Outlets of Orange with deals on brand names like Ralph Lauren, Nordstrom Rack, NIKE (Factory Store), Bloomingdales and Calvin Klein.

Imagine your own Californian dream

The California coast had a magnetic quality that drew me in instantly, and so my visit to the quintessential beach community of Dana Point was a definite highlight. A 45-minute drive from Disneyland and I reached the dramatic coastline with wildlife, nature, and beaches. The Laguna Beach Marriott Resort had rooms with coastal views and spa

Dana Point had no shortage of activities to choose from: Spot whales and dolphins on whale-watching excursions; learn about ocean science and maritime history at the Ocean Institute; hike up the Bluff Top Trail, a cliff-side path with a panoramic view of Dana Point Harbour.

Or simply relax on the sandy shores of Doheny State Beach, which has long stretches of protected coastline with campground facilities and a popular surf spot on the north end of the park.

Speaking of riding the waves, don’t miss out on Surf City, USA. Huntington Beach is the state’s ultimate beach town to hang loose and soak up the SoCal lifestyle. My favourite attraction: the sunset at Huntington Pier. Watching the orange and pink streaked sky silhouetted with kites, surfers and beach-goers, I found my own California dream taking shape.

And what wild dreams I dreamt…

I’m on a surf board and the wave of a lifetime picks me up, and I ride its powerful crest savouring the salty air and sense of freedom --all under the blue Californian sky.

Mmmm, maybe I’ll come back and take a lesson. Hopefully, it’ll work out better than it did for the Polish entourage.

What is it about California that attracts dreamers?

www.visitanaheim.org

Jennifer Merrick

Jennifer Merrick

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

14

A r o u n d T h e Wo r l d

(in 20 pages)

Estonia: Northern Europe’s Emerging Destination

by Olivia Balsinger Over the past three centuries, the history of Estonia, the tiny country in Northern Europe on the Baltic Sea, has been intermingled with that of Russia, whose influence is seen today in the details of the Russian Orthodox churches and architecture of Tallinn - the medieval capital of the country. In recent years, however, Estonia has emerged as one of the top destinations for European travel, as it contains a storybook atmosphere and amiable population. It is comprised of charming rural villages and beautiful landscapes, unspoiled marshlands, beaches, and swamplands. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union, more than half of the country has been remarked with conserved forests, making it an ideal place for active travelers to explore the rugged wild. The untouched nature is home to some incredible wildlife, as well as several craters and stunning waterfalls.

In addition to its natural beauty, the culture and indigenous heritage of this Baltic country weaves together a fascinating tale of tradition, geopolitics, and the resulting identity of eclecticism. Between its innovative culinary creations such as parrot themed cocktails at Parrot MiniBar in Tallinn, to the luxurious accommodations at the 16th century Vihula Manor Country Club & Spa, Estonia offers a diversity in eclectic activities for diverse travelers.

www.visitestonia.com

China Tourism Introduces New Brand Logo China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made “Beautiful China” the tag line of its tourism and introduced a new global brand logo. With an overall look as a stamp, the new logo integrates modern messaging with the ancient Chinese art form of calligraphy. The hieroglyph in the background means “travel” in ancient Chinese language, which shows a flag guiding a couple around.

The blue color represents the sky, delivering China tourism’s concepts - vitality, harmony and

The Tokyo 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games

by Steve Gillick Sports tourism aficionados and Japanophiles are all abuzz with the advent of the Tokyo 2020 Olympics that take place from July 24 to August 9, and the Paralympics, from August 25 to September 6. To date, some 8 million tickets have been sold through lottery, with more slated to go on sale in the spring of 2020. And the demand to be part of history has been equally impressive with 500,000 applying for one of the 10,000 Olympic torchbearer positions and 200,000 applications vying for the 80,000 volunteer positions at the Games (and by the way, speaking Japanese is not a strict requirement).

Meredith Thatcher, the Manager of International Communications for the Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games noted that these Olympics would set new standards. The legacy will be to show how a major sustainable event can be successfully held in the middle of a major city. To that end, ordinary citizens are already involved in contributing used plastic waste and electronics (“my old telephone is part of that Olympic medal”). There will be no formal Olympic Village as the goal is to showcase the venues, such as the new Olympic Stadium, along with the city hosting the event. And for the youth, five new games, Baseball, Karate, Skateboarding, Sport Climbing and Surfing will be nothing short of exciting and inspirational with a legacy of encouraging participation.

From a tourism perspective, the Games will include competitions in Tokyo, Saitama, Izu, Fukushima, Yokohama, Sapporo and other cities.

green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese civilization that has been going on for

North Americans looking for tickets are advised to sign up with an Authorized Ticket Reseller (ATR).

thousands of years. Illustrating an international vision, the “Beautiful China” logo represents

www.tokyo2020.org/en

China’s promising and welcoming tourism industry.

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

16

Good to Go! Great Travel Gear and Gadgets Our travel specialists review the best travel gear and gadgets to get you on the go better

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

Subscribe to our print issue at

www.worldtraveler.travel

C o m e

W i t h

U s

&

S e e

T h e

W o r l d !

18

Intrepid Travel Launches Over 100 New Tours for 2020

T

he world’s largest adventure company, Intrepid Travel, has unveiled over 100 new tours for 2020, meaning the tour operator will boast more than 1,000 itineraries with over 13,000 departures in the coming year - up 11% from 2019.

From “dark tourism” to culturally-immersive festivals and Olympic-sized adventures, these new itineraries embrace the Intrepid way of traveling: utilizing local guides, accommodations and businesses

to provide real-life experiences in a responsible manner.

Some exciting new offerings for 2020 include:

The B-Corp certified travel company will also be introducing a number of new destinations to its roster, including Sudan and Scotland, and will officially become a seven-continent operator with the launch of a new program of sustainable smallgroup Antarctica expeditions on the newly refurbished Ocean Endeavour ship, which will begin departing in October.

Destinations Beyond the Headlines: Greenland: Greenland had its moment in the spotlight when President Trump expressed interest in buying the country, where the tourism industry is just starting to bloom. As a result, Intrepid saw a huge spike in interest for its new 2020 Greenland Expedition, which explores the local Inuit culture, Nuuk - the country’s

Cultural Festival Trips

19

Always looking for a reason to celebrate?

Dive into cultural celebrations across the globe. Travelers can experience the Baining Firedance Festival with a local village in Papua New Guinea, Samba their way through Rio’s Carnival, see the colors of Holi in Rajasthan, and celebrate Mardis Gras as it should be – from the back of a float.

Unique Trekking Opportunities

modern capitol, and the famed Ilulissat Ice fjord.

Ukraine & Chernobyl: Go beyond the HBO miniseries madness and explore Ukraine with Intrepid Travel’s new Highlights of Ukraine trip. Tapping into the dark tourism trend, this tour respectfully and safely visits the Chernobyl disaster site and travels through the beautiful scenery and charming towns of Ukraine from Kiev to Lviv. Additional new trips to Ukraine include an epic journey through all of Eastern Europe, and 20- and 13-day itineraries that cover Moldova, Ukraine and Romania.

With trekking trips gaining popularity and well-loved trails experiencing overcrowding, Intrepid Travel has scoped out new, equally rugged and beautiful routes across the globe for those looking to hit the trails and take in views. These unique hikes and climbs include traversing the Transcaucasian Trail in Armenia, trekking from Portugal to Spain on the coastal Camino Trail and climbing the summits of Simien Mountain National Park in Ethiopia.

About Intrepid Travel Intrepid Travel is a global adventure travel company that has been taking travellers off the beaten track to discover the world's most amazing places for 30 years. The company offers more than 1,000 trips in more than 120 countries and on every continent. Every trip is designed to truly experience local culture - to meet local people, try local food, take local transport and stay in local accommodation. A world leader in responsible travel, Intrepid’s award-winning tour leaders, small group sizes and included activities mean they offer travellers great value for money.

www.intrepidtravel.com

Japan: With Japan hosting the 2020 Summer Olympics, travelers who want to get active in the spirit of the athletes can take on a trekking trip along the ancient countryside trails of Koya-san and Kumano Kodo. Or, cold-weather lovers can experience a winter wonderland with a tour of Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido, that includes days of dog sledding, whiskey distilleries and ice bars.

Turkey: Despite political concerns, Turkey remains one of Intrepid Travel’s fastest growing destinations, with four new itineraries available in 2020 to meet demand.

Travelers can island hop on a coastal cruise, dive into the country’s history on Turkey Uncovered, discover the hidden gems of Turkey’s backroads and double the adventure with the Turkey and Georgia tour.

Unexplored Africa

Expanding beyond popular itineraries available in East and Southern Africa, Intrepid Travel is encouraging travelers to head to coastal West Africa, where they can discover the wildlife rich wetlands of Senegal and Gambia or dive deep into the often misunderstood Voodoo religion in Benin, Togo and Ghana.

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

A Peek Inside the Los Cabos International Film Festival

by Olivia Balsinger

M

ove over Sundance and Cannes.

Besides its intriguing, unique landscapes of beaches, deserts and mountainous cliffs, Los Cabos has yet another reason why you should visit. The Los Cabos International Film Festival, which occurs each November in this municipality located at the southern tip of Mexico's Baja California Peninsula, is continually growing in prominence.

Beginning in 2012, the mission of The Los Cabos Film Festival is to “positively contribute to the growth of the global film culture, focusing especially in Mexico, Canada, and the United States.” The festival’s aim is not only to showoff domestic and international talent, but to also highlight the destination’s beauty and culture on a world stage. The films, of course, are a draw in themselves and often the premier for the Latin American market. In 2019, the festival debuted The Irishman, and the legendary Robert De Niro was spotted on the red carpet, amongst a slew of other A-Lister Hollywood figures. Los Cabos is a playground for movie stars all seasons.

Throughout the festival, there are no shortage of parties and events happening in Los Cabos. The whole surrounding radiates energy, with bars, restaurants, and lounges catering to their international visitors. It is a prime opportunity to indulge in luxury experiences and also network during hosted conversations, dinner parties, and less formally, over a beer on the exquisite Los Cabos beaches.

Speaking to the region’s natural assets, another perk of attending this festival is the sheer amount of sunlight and activities outside of film screenings. Nothing screams “A-List Celebrity” like exploring Los Cabos on a fullserviced yacht. For an authentic cultural experience, a farm-to-table cooking class at Huerta Los Tamarindos gives local insight into making aromatic Mexican cuisine. And of course strolling around sleepy Todos Santos -

a town an hour outside glamorous Los Cabos, where the desert greets the striking mountains - is an experience in itself. Here art reigns, and between the murals and architecture of the charming streets, it is easy to get blissfully lost admiring the culture.

Of course, planning your accommodation during the festival is just as important as lining up events and parties. Hotel El Ganzo is an eclectic, vibrant hotel sandwiched between the bay and mountains, which boasts a pristine rooftop pool and the only underground recording studio in the area with “Gonzo Sessions.” Another choice, The Guaycura Boutique Hotel Beach Club & Spa, delivers guests a unique Mexican experience on an accessible corner in Todos Santo, steps away from lively galleries and restaurants. With traditionally decorated rooms and a rooftop terrace overlooking the peninsula's most dramatic nature, it is the perfect retreat from the buzz of the festival. Vista Encantada Spa Resort & Residences in Cabo San Lucas maintains a level of superiority and high-end luxury, with uninterrupted views of the surrounding sparkling Pacific Ocean, for those craving relaxation.

In addition to gaining worldwide fame for its astonishing scenery, sultry nightlife and charming culture, The Los Cabos International Film Festival provides further incentive to add this destination to your list.

www.cabosfilmfestival.com

Idaho - Fly Over State? Heck No!

by Olivia Balsinger

M

other Nature had something up her sleeve when sculpting the intricate, stunning landscape that is southern Idaho. Often an overlooked touristic destination, Idaho is a land of breathtaking nature, adrenaline-pumping adventure, and is a beer-lovers haven.

Most trips to the aptly nicknamed “Gem State” begin in Boise, the capital known for its charm and innovative arts. I stayed at the Marriott Boise Downtown, just minutes from the city’s colorful murals and live-music venues, before venturing into southern Idaho.

While there’s a chance you’ve never heard of McCall, Idaho - a quaint and quirky mountain town about an hour from Boise—you probably should! Though the town only has about 3,200 fulltime residents, this former mining and timber community is a mecca of brewing with three craft breweries - McCall Brewing Company, Broken Horn Brewing Company, and Salmon River Brewery. The town also boasts several mouthwatering restaurants including two with executive chefs who have been honored by the James Beard House. I couldn’t feel guilty for my indulgences, however, as when I wasn’t eating I was continually moving - biking the streets of McCall, testing out the zip line at Cascade Raft’s new rope challenge, kayaking in Ponderosa State Park, horseback riding at Ya-Hoo Corrals, and relieving my muscles at the famous Burgdorf Hot Springs, nestled in the mountainous valley. I stayed at Hotel McCall down-

town, with morning views from bed of the fog lifting from the lake. McCall hasn’t been saturated by tourists yet and is still brimming with authentic character and kind locals, excited to share their paradise in the mountains.

When most people think of Sun Valley, they picture the celebrity mansions and exclusive ski resorts that are perched in the verdant mountain ranges. However, I was pleasantly surprised by how accessible and earthy it was.

The downtown has an eclectic variety of restaurants like the Whiskey Jacques' for wood-fired pies. However, the real treat is the mountains ideal for skiing in winter and hiking all seasons. I stayed in a variety of properties - Knob Hill Inn was a charming alpine hotel with an indoor grill restaurant. Hotel Ketchum is the newly renovated, affordable choice near mountains and downtown, with airy, spacious rooms. The Limelight Hotel is suited for those looking for plush quarters and daily included shuttles to the mountains. Like McCall, craft beer is also prominent in Ketchum - aficionados will especially enjoy tasting Sawtooth Brewery’s flagship beers, including Idahome IPA. Idaho offers award-winning food, breweries, and an outdoor playground for any adventurous spirit. The time to visit is now, before the secret is out that Idaho is the next “hot state” to visit.

www.visitidaho.org

24

WT Library Photo

tic buffet style breakfasts at our hotel, small lunches at any one of hundreds of local cafes and feast on Bavarian dishes at Beer halls.

Munich, nothing changes, everything changes Article and photography by Michael Morcos

‘

It has been over 30 years since my last visit’ I said. ‘So thirty years?’ said the hotel manager, with a smile and a chuckle she said ‘nothing has changed, the beer is the same, the buildings are the same and we are the same’. Maybe true but I had less than 48 hours to find out.

steps to get a fabulous bird’s eye view of Munich, wonder though many opulent shops and fashion malls, visit some of Munich’s most iconic historic buildings and stroll through the magnificently laidback Englischer Garten (English gardens). The best part, it was all within walking distance in the city center.

Although I was still young and my priorities have changed in life since the 80’s, I would attack this Bavarian capitol with energy and purpose. I had been challenged to find change in Munich.

World Class Museums

This being December, we were in a for a holiday cheer and the locals would be out in droves from late morning to late evening, so much so that I jokingly questioned my wife if anybody worked here? We would stroll the many wide pedestrian streets, visit the landmark Neues Rathaus (new Town hall, that is not so new), Marienplatz, with all the well lite Christmas kiosks, the amazing Alte Pinakothek museum, Peterskirche, (St Peters church) to climb the hundreds of narrow tower

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

Munich is packed with museums for every interest and taste, so much so that art lovers could spend a month and still need more time. We visited the Alte Pinakothek museum, truly one of the best museums I have had the pleasure to see. With some of the most wellknown historical pieces, the artwork ranges from Monet and Velázquez right up to Dutch and Italian masters such as Van Gogh and Leonardo da Vinci.

Eating your way through Munich

With so many local and international dining options in Munich, our biggest problem was choosing from a host of wonderfully themed restaurants and cafes. We would have fantas-

A memorable time was had at the Augustiner Bierhalle. This centrally located establishment is by most standards, huge and extremely popular, not just by tourist but by the hundreds of locals present that enjoyed the wonderfully brewed beers and appetizing Bavarian dishes. Since 1328, Augustiner has been serving the Munichers and so popular was their beer that I would recognise their beer labels in stores throughout the city.

Where it is, was and will be

There are town halls and there is the Neues Rathaus. Located on Munich's most central square, Marienplatz, it was constructed in the 19th century but the municipality needed more office space than the Old Town Hall had and they built a new building. After completion in 1909, the building had added a 79meter-high tower and a huge Flemish Gothic style façade. The interior is just as stunning, with vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows and carved wooden decorations.

Munich airport

There are airports that people would use to travel to another destination and then there is the Munich airport, a delightful destination on its own. Having connected here on many occasions, it would be the first time I left from here. The whole process from city center to boarding was seamless. To say the least, getting there on the efficient and well-kept regional train was a delight, the checking-in process was effortless and all so relaxing that the rest of the journey was like a piece-ofcake. With so much time on our hands we even strolled through a (get this) their outdoor yearly Christmas market, enjoyed some great airport restaurants and even some last minute duty free shopping. With such a wonderful experience, the rest of the world airports have a lot to learn from Munich’s.

On this trip I would find the old and new fusing to create a rather bold and unmistakably modern city while still holding on to centuries of history and traditions. Many favourites are there and will always be, while hard working and positive thinking Munichers are firmly planted in this new millennium.

www.munich.travel

26

A Dinner With “Family” in Budapest

by Daniel Smajovits

T

he Olive Garden famously coined the slogan: ‘when you’re here, you’re family’, but for this writer, it took a trip to Budapest and a night with Suzie Goldbach and her parents, Zsuzsa and Feri, to truly feel like welcome away from home.

Tucked in a quaint apartment overlooking the Danube River and Buda Hills, miles away from the crowds of central Budapest lies Eat, Meet and Greet Hungary. Much more than a restaurant, Eat, Meet and Greet is an experience, an evening like no other where one family serves up five-star cuisine with the warmest of welcomes.

For Suzie, after training as a chef in Italy, she struggled to find a job upon her return to Budapest. With the support of her parents, she took a gamble on herself and in 2015, began welcoming weary travelers into her home. What started as a concept turned into one of the finest restaurants in the city, creating memories for travelers that last a lifetime.

The notion itself is incredibly simple: a dinner

party for strangers, but the execution is flawless. Ensuring that the traditional Hungarian dishes are authentic is matriarch Zsuzsa, who cooks alongside her daughter, while her husband, Feri, is a wine connoisseur and pairs each dish perfectly. Overseeing everything is Suzie whose energy is contagious.

Throughout the evening, she keeps the conversation moving with her poignant questions and engaging stories, pausing only to explain the dishes, their origin and preparation.

the ingredients available. The only constant is a three-course meal which is always fresh, unique and filled with love.

Should you manage to get a reservation, the only rule is to show up and enjoy. Joining you for dinner will be eleven strangers in the midst of a bucket list vacation, at the end of a grueling work trip or simply passing through. Every dinner begins in the living room as homemade Pálinka helps strangers break through the occasional language barrier. Suzie joins the conversation, trying to get to know each and every one of her guests.

Even if this meal is at the end of your trip, meaning you will be at home with your family within hours, you feel a tinge of sadness as this night draws to a close, not knowing when, if at all, you’ll be able to spend time with your new family again.

Like a calming wind, Suzie ensures that even the shyest of guests feel welcome, making this the ideal evening for a solo traveler. If you’re looking to meet new people, then look no further than your new friends around the dinner table, as by the time you finish your glass of Tokaji (dessert) wine, you’ll be exchanging phone numbers and making plans to meet up again.

For those looking to indulge in gulyàs, look elsewhere. Suzie rarely cooks up the stereotypical cuisine, firmly believing that travelers need to experience the vast array of Hungarian flavours, well beyond the clichés.

The menu varies per season, depending on

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

For most, the bold and exciting flavours on their plates elicited the delight and surprise that Suzie and her parents have come to expect. For the rest, their distant Hungarian roots simply reminded them of forgotten memories of dishes that their nagymama used to make.

Suzie can be reached at: http://eatmeet-hungary.com or via email at: info@eatmeet-hungary.com.

Reservations are required. The apartment building and Suzie’s apartment is wheelchair friendly.

27

In Cuba, Naturally!

Article and photography by Steve Gillick

M

any visitors to Cuba are unaware that aside from wonderful beach holidays, nature tourism places Cuba as one of the top destinations in the Caribbean. On a recent trip we travelled 2 ½ hours south of Varadero to Playa Giron on the Zapata Peninsula to get a taste of Cuba’s amazing natural diversity by exploring stunning scenery, discovering the flora and fauna, hiking through national parks, reveling in the beauty of one waterfall after another, as well as kayaking, swimming and photography.

In nearby Playa Larga, we visited La casa del Zunzuncito, a wonderfully onomatopoeic word for the Bee Hummingbird, the smallest bird in the world. We took photos of a tiny blue female, as well as a bright green Emerald Hummingbird who dropped by.

And with refreshment in mind, we followed a trail, named Centinelas del Rio Melodioso (Guardians of the Melodious River) to find swimming holes and discover a succession of waterfalls, each one more breathtaking than the last.

Heading further east, with spectacular views at every turn, we ascended Topes de Collantes, located at 800 meters (2600 feet) above sea level in the Escambray Mountains.

On arrival, we boarded trucks, as the roads in the area can be steep and pretty rough.

After the hiking, birding and swimming (we also met rock climbers), it was time for zipping! Next to our hotel, Los Hellechos (The Ferns), we Zip-Lined through the Canopy with the fifth and last Zip spectacularly ending inside a cave passageway.

Many visitors come to the mangrove swamps in Zapata National Park to kayak, fish, and even spot crocodiles, but the main activity, especially during the November to March migration season is birding. The pink flamingoes are a popular attraction but there are over 70 different types of birds on the peninsula. During our short stay we saw White Ibis, Kingfishers, Black-necked Stilts, Sandpipers, Prairie Warblers, Yellow Warblers (a.k.a.

Mangrove Warblers), White and Reddish Egrets, and even the Cuban Trogon, the National Bird whose feathers display the blue, red and white colors of the Cuban flag!

In Guanayara Park, single-tree bridges (hold on to that rope!) help traverse rushing streams as the easy-to-moderate hiking trails through pristine forest lead to intriguing cave passageways, sometimes full of slippery rocks, that in turn lead to spectacular hidden waterfalls.

A fitting end to our nature adventures was a visit to the Theatre of Elements Community Project which showcases the talents of local farmers: Singing, acting, and presenting their art and stories. The focus was nature - water, sunshine, fresh air - and its ability to generate positive energy. What could be a more inspirational take-away from a vacation? It’s in Cuba, naturally!

Our morning refreshments were a product of our surroundings. Delicious full-bodied coffee, made from fresh picked and roasted Robusta coffee beans was served along with a taste of ultra-sweet, creamy, chocolate that had just been made from Cacao beans.

www.gocuba.ca

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

28

Going Further With

Tu r k i s h A i r l i n e s lowing reviews and exceptional food are the order of the day for this up-and-coming airline!

G

Part of the Star Alliance network, Turkish airlines (THY) offers service to Canadians from Toronto and Montreal, and connections to destinations all over the world from their hub in Istanbul.

Building on their international reputation, THY has been climbing the ranks as a top provider and doing very well in Canada.

With 200 destinations, and adding new ones at a rapid pace, THY welcome trav-

ellers with smiles and a friendly hello, though often with a charming accent!

To help them usher in this growth, THY has a massive, world-class training center in Istanbul with numerous simulators.

Pilots, flight attends and support staff are all trained well and are ready to go after their courses are done.

Their aircraft include A330s, A340s, B777s, B737-800s and B727-800s, all well maintained and laid-out with the customer in mind. Each section is designed with creature comforts taking front and centre. The seats throughout the plane are comfortable and the facilities are kept impeccably clean and organized. Most Business Class passengers can expect either fully lie-flat seats or angled lie-flat seats that brings relaxation to a higher level.

Comfort Class is Turkish Airlines' premium economy section is highlighted by slightly larger seats configured in two-by-three-bytwo rows, a large video screen and entertainment system with an iPod outlet and a laptop power outlet for each seat.

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

Even passengers traveling in Economy Class can enjoy an above average trip, as all passengers enjoy the famed THY complimentary meal. Though multi-course meals are provided in Business Class on extended range flights, all passengers are treated to the award winning food served on board. Considering that THY deals with one of the world’s biggest (maybe the biggest) catering service and are partners with Do & Co., there is no surprise in the quality THY can offer!

www.turkishairlines.com

G Adventures Announces Top Destinations for the 2020 Where to travel - top 12 destinations revealed into Northern Madagascar for 2020, where travellers can spend time on ‘lemur island’ or Nosy Be. There’s also a new Planeterra community tourism project - G Adventures non-profit partner - which aids reforestation of the habitat around Ranohira for native species, such as the endangered lemurs.

Pope Francis visited Madagascar this year where he expressed support for the creation of new jobs aimed at securing the country's rich biodiversity.

F

rom fascinating emerging destinations and countries on the rebound, through to places where global events are making it more exciting to visit, the experts at G Adventures analyzed their data and coupled it with travel trends to forecast the 12 hottest spots to visit in 2020.

G Adventures’ top 12 trips for 2020: Nepal - Travellers experiencing a mindful trip in the peaceful home of Buddha next year will find it hard to recall that 2020 marks five years since the April 2015 earthquake hit. The country has been busy rebuilding and is now encouraging tourism to return with the launch of the ‘Visit Nepal 2020’ campaign, which aims to attract two million visitors in the calendar year. G Adventures has experienced a 90 per cent increase in travellers since 2017, and is offering a new Wellness Nepal tour which immerses travellers in local culture while they

Sri Lanka - After a meteoric rise to become 2019's hottest travel destination with its kind people, rich culture and stunning shoreline, Sri Lanka’s tourism was heavily impacted following the Easter attacks last April.

According to the Sri Lanka Tourism Development Authority, arrivals fell 71 per cent in May; the lowest number since the civil war ended a decade ago. With all foreign advisories lifted, now is the perfect time for travellers to return to experience all Sri Lanka has to offer. To help support this return, the government is offering a free visa on arrival for travellers from 48 countries.

enjoy a blissful introduction to this place and its people.

Georgia - It’s safe to say Georgian food and wine are both having a moment with the media spotlight highlighting delicacies such as khinkali (soup dumplings) and the country’s traditional winemaking process. G Adventures has witnessed a 44 per cent increase in travellers over the past three years, and Georgia’s profile as an international tourism destination will be encouraged with the UNWTO selecting the country to host its June 2020 board meeting. New budget flight routes through Europe will also help open up this emerging destination.

Madagascar - This gem off the coast of southern Africa has continued to attract adventurous travellers with a 33 per cent increase for G Adventures in the past three years. This has led the company to expand

Ireland - 2020 is a leap year, so where better to visit than the country with its own leapyear tradition of reversing the traditional engagement proposal so women asking for a hand in marriage! Additionally, Galway has been named as a European Capital of Culture for 2020, and G Adventures has a new National Geographic Journeys with G Adventures Iconic Ireland trip for those wanting to join the craic.

Nicaragua - With its beautiful beaches, world-class surf and stunning classic colonial architecture, Nicaragua is firmly back on its feet to welcome tourists following a period of unrest, making this the perfect time to visit. G Adventures returns in November, just in time for the dry season which begins in December. The Nicaraguan Institute of Tourism reports that during 2018 tourist numbers dropped 28 per cent but now calm has returned the friendly locals are hopeful the tourists will follow.

31

Brazil - With a 10 per cent increase in G Adventures travellers in the past year, the first increase in the past few years, Brazil appears to be firmly back on traveller’s hotlists. Rio de Janeiro has been named the World Capital of Architecture for 2020 by UNESCO, and G Adventures has a new National Geographic Journeys Explore Brazil trip launching next year.

for the past few years. As a result of increased footfall, and the opportunity to change more lives through travel, a new Planeterra project has been launched to help educate travellers about the Indigenous San culture. G Adventures is also launching a new National Geographic Family Journeys trip, the Southern Africa Family Journey.

Greeland - Greeland hit the headlines earlier this year with search results doubling after President Trump claimed he wanted to buy it. See what attracted him to this pristine piece of the world aboard the G Expedition ship, as it traverses Greenland’s coast.

www.gadventures.com

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines Travellers looking for an instagrammable Caribbean holiday with few tourists to photobomb their pictures need look no further.

G Adventures’ new sailing trip cruising the untouched islands of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines is just the ticket. travellers will sail from hidden coves to secluded beaches in a comfortable catamaran, with time for snorkelling some of the Caribbean's best sites and indulging in tasty local Creole cuisine.

Laos - Often overlooked on a Southeast Asia adventure, travellers on this G Adventures trip will arrive into the calmness of this small but perfectly formed country by boat, sailing the Mekong into the heart and soul of Laos. According to the Ministry of Tourism, traveller numbers to Laos for the first half of 2019 have increased five percent compared to the same time last year, and to encourage more tourism, as of June 2019 all international visitors to Laos are eligible to apply online for a single entry visa for a maximum stay of 30 days.

Japan - Appearing for a second year, Japan is on roll. Hot on the heels of hosting the Rugby World Cup this year, 2020 has them keeping busy hosting the Summer Olympics.

G Adventures travellers to the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’ have been steadily increasing with an additional 23 per cent growth in the past year. With the launch of its new National Geographic Family Journeys programme, G Adventures is extending experiences to include children aged seven and up. A Japan Family Journey tour.

South Africa - It’ll be 30 years next year since Nelson Mandela was released from prison, and G Adventures has been experiencing double-digit growth in South Africa Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

32

Tr o p i c a l Ti d b i t s

by Sue C Travel

Rosalie Bay Resort Reopens on Dominica I was delighted to hear of the reopening of this wonderful eco-resort on Dominica as the island fully bounces back from damage caused by Hurricane Maria two years ago.

The Nature Island is looking lush and lovely again now, and this is one of my favourite spots to stay there. I find it more South Pacific style than Caribbean, with its soft black volcanic sand that sparkles in the sunlight cresting a cobalt sea flanked with emerald peaks of rainforest. I love their elegant country cottage style abodes, and it’s an ideal retreat for health and wellness with locally sourced nutritious meal choices, yoga and meditation classes, and an

exceptional spa located on the bank of the Rosalie River. Hiking opportunities abound for all skill levels on this island, and superb snorkeling and first-rate diving are also great activity options. Rosalie Bay Beach is also a very popular spot for many species of sea turtles to nest upon each summer, in fact, the owner is known as the sea turtle saviour of Dominica.

Visit: www.rosaliebaydominica.com Virgin Voyages to Set Sail Soon Dubbed as “the cruise for people who don’t like cruising”, the seaborne vision of famous entrepreneur Richard Branson soon sets sail from the Port of Miami

aboard the Scarlet Lady. Itineraries beginning in April 2020 will include short jaunts to Key West, and longer cruises to the Dominican Republic’s Puerto Plata, and Mexico’s Costa Maya and Riviera Maya, with every voyage stopping at their highly anticipated new private island oasis in the Bahamas called The Beach Club at Bimini.

All cruises are adult-only, and uber hightech modern cabins sport modular furniture so you can adjust your living space as desired. Of course, being a Richard Branson project, you never know what epic entertainment and theme parties might happen on board. And you can meet the man in person if you book his “Birthday Bash” cruise in July as he’ll be celebrating on board.

Visit: www.virginvoyages.com A Spooky Cancun Week I just happened to be in Cancun and Riviera Maya last fall during both Halloween and the Day of the Dead week, and though I’d like to plan to return to Mexico at this time of year to explore local traditions like small town cemetery festivals

33

out all the stops for a great show by bedecking the sports bar with such a welldone haunted house that the adults were often as terrified as the children! (I know I was.) And the food and drink were done up in all manner of creepy styles, too. Lots of fun.

Visit: www.nowresorts.com/emerald Next, I was at Breathless Riviera Cancun Resort & Spa for the Day of the Dead. This is an adult-only upscale all-inclusive which I absolutely adored (see review page 55).

This spot also outdid themselves with spooky décor and unique food and drinks and a skeleton party and neon party at their trendy outdoor Wink Bar. I was uber impressed with the giant two-person skeletons, stacked on top of each other that actually managed to dance with the each other and the guests! Very cool.

Visit: www.breathlessresorts.com Nikki Beach Saint Barth Goes More Gourmet A legendary St Barth’s landmark kicked off the new season by bringing in Chef Taku Sekine to represent the luxury beach club in the 6th annual Saint Barth Gourmet Festival last fall, taking their offerings up to whole new level of culinary excellence.

Chef Taku was Head Chef at Dersou and Cheval d’Or in Paris and brought his own unique fusion Asian/French vision to the event in keeping with the high level of sophistication one expects to enjoy on the Caribbean’s most chic and cosmopolitan island.

It pays to sail the old-fashioned way it seems, using wind power to cruise around the seas in the most environmentallyfriendly way possible has seen the Star Clippers line win World’s Leading Green Cruise at the prestigious 2019 World Travel Awards. Again! This is the seventh time they have won it. And they also garnered two more stellar accolades as World’s Leading Specialist Cruise Line and World’s Leading Luxury Sailing Company at the awards. I’ve had the pleasure to sail aboard the Star Flyer this year, and I will certainly attest to the fact that all of these awards are very well-deserved. Mirell Reyes, President of Star Clippers America, says, “We are thrilled to be recognized by the World Travel Awards year after year for our commitment to environmentally responsible sailing practices and a truly unique cruise experience. Star Clippers cruises marry the authenticity of a true sailing vessels with the luxury amenities of a private yacht, giving guests the best of both worlds.”

Visit: www.starclippers.com

Visit: saint-barth.nikkibeach.com

©ArtmanAgency

and the ancient Mayan Hanal Pixán ceremony ( I hear Alltournative Lifetime Experiences does a wonderful outing to an underground cenote for this,) I was still treated to some spooky stuff at the two different hotels I stayed at. I was at the new Now Emerald Cancun for Halloween ─ a two-tower family-friendly all-inclusive resort right on Cancun’s best beach. And though I thoroughly enjoyed the multi-level water circuit cresting the sea, I’m not a big fan of being surrounded by children while trying to relax. So, I was glad they also have an epic adult-only pool as well, and that’s where you’ll find their most epic bartender, too. He is really a star! But come Halloween, it wouldn’t have been the same without the screams of the kids! They pulled

Star Clippers Wins Prestigious Green Cruise Award

Award-winning travel journalist Sue Campbell is based in Montreal but makes it her business to be on top of everything cool, hot, and new under the sun throughout the Caribbean and Latin America.

World Traveler welcomes her as a regular columnist.

Follow her on Instagram and Twitter @suectravel Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

Yangtze

Arctic

North

Atlantic

South

Atlantic

North

C r u i s i n g w i t h

Traveler

Amazon

Danube

Mekong

Nile

Rhine

RhĂ´ne

Moselle

Seine

W O R L D

C o m e

Wi t h

U s

&

Pa c i f i c

South

Pa c i f i c

Indian

Southern

Ocean Adriatic Aegean Mediterranean Caribbean

Cruise News -

pages 36-37

The Sky’s The Limit with Sky Princess - page 42 Romantic Europe on the Reimagined “Crystal Serenity” - page 44

A Round of Applause for The Encore, NCL’s latest hit- page 48 This Photo: Crystal Serenity

S a i l

T h e

Wo r l d !

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

South-China Sea

Do you know the Secrets of Luxury Barges in Europe? - page 46

Black

UnPlug with UnCruise - page 40

B a lt i c

C R U I S I N G SECTION

36

AmaWaterways

Avalon

Azamara

Carnival

Celebrit

C r u i s e

N e w s

Holland America Line Opens 2021 Grand South America & Antarctica Voyage In 2021, Volendam embarks on a 74day Grand South America & Antarctica Voyage, which visits 34 ports in eight countries and various Caribbean islands. The circumnavigation includes extensive exploration of two juxtaposed natural wonders: the Amazon River and Antarctica.

Overnight calls include two nights at Callao (Lima), Peru; and single nights at Buenos Aires, Argentina; Rio de Janeiro and Manaus, Brazil.

The roundtrip Fort Lauderdale voyage departs Jan. 4, 2021, and transits the Panama Canal before heading to Ecuador, Peru, Chile, the Antarctica, the Falkland Islands, Uruguay, Argentina, Brazil and the Caribbean before returning to Fort Lauderdale.

www.hollandamerica.com

European Waterways Announces New Themed Cruises in 2020 Responding to the ever increasing demand for experiential travel, European Waterways announced that it is now offering a wider range of new themed cruise departures for 2020 that can be booked on a per-cabin basis.

Cruises eligible for cabin bookings include the April 5, 2020 Whisky Trail cruise aboard the Scottish Highlander and the April 26, 2020, Golf Cruise aboard the Spirit of Scotland, both on Scotland’s Caledonian Canal; the April 12, 2020 Wine Appreciation Cruise aboard L’Impressionniste in Burgundy, France; and the August 16, 2020 Opera Cruise aboard La Bella Vita, which sails out of Venice.

www.europeanwaterways.com

Silversea Launces Unprecedented Collection of Grand Voyages Silversea launches a new collection of Grand Voyages for late 2020 and 2021, which includes three exceptional expedition cruise options. Purposely designed for travellers who prefer a more immersive travel experience, Silversea’s Grand Voyages offer extended journeys of up to 70 days, with multiple overnight stays, a range of exclusive events, and many life-defining experiences.

Following below is a recap of each Grand Voyage: •Grand Australia 2020, Sydney Round Trip - 30 Ports/3 Countries.

•Grand South America 2021, Fort Lauderdale Round Trip - 37 Ports/20 Countries.

•Grand Southern Expedition 2021, Ushuaia to Lautoka, Fiji - 26 Ports/8 Countries.

•Grand Tropical Expedition 2021,Lautoka, Fiji, to Cochin, India - 36 Ports/9 Countries.

•Grand Northern Expedition 2021, Cochin, India, to Tromsø - 47 Ports/15 Countries.

AmaWaterways New State-of-the-Art Ship Four New Itineraries Joining AmaWaterways’ flourishing European fleet, the new 156-passenger AmaLucia, sister ship to AmaSiena (2020), will feature signature twin balconies, connecting staterooms and multiple dining venues including The Chef’s Table, among other luxurious amenities.

Celebrating spring in the Netherlands and Belgium, AmaLucia begins her journey March 16, 2021 sailing a series of Tulip Time cruises before setting sail on the Danube, Rhine, Main and Moselle rivers.

In response to the growing demand for more French itineraries, AmaWaterways announced the repositioning of three ships – besides the award-winning AmaKristina moving to the Rhône, AmaDante will join AmaLyra on the Seine and AmaCello will sail a new itinerary on both the Rhône and Saône rivers. Lastly, AmaBella and AmaVerde will rejoin AmaWaterways’ European fleet sailing the Dutch & Belgian Waterways and the Danube.

Four New European Itineraries Plus New Pre- and Post-Cruise Land Programs In 2021, AmaWaterways will debut four new cruise itineraries: •Impressions of the Seine & Paris sailing on board AmaDante from Paris to Le Havre.

•Essence of Burgundy & Provence sailing on board AmaCello from Chalonsur-Saône to Arles (or reverse).

•Rhine Castles & Swiss Alps sailing on board AmaMora and AmaSerena from Amsterdam to Basel (or reverse).

•Best of Holland & Belgium sailing on board the AmaSerena round-trip from Amsterdam.

www.amawaterways.com www.silversea.com

Royal-Caribbean

Scenic

Seabourn

SeaDream

Si

ty

Costa

Crystal

Cunard

Disney

Holland America

per cent through advanced active emissions control technology. Nitrogen oxide from the engine operations is conducted through a catalyst – a high-density device made from noble metals – and converts them into nitrogen and water, both harmless compounds.

MSC Grandiosa will also be fitted with shore-to-ship power which connects cruise ships while at berth to a port’s local power grid to further reduce the ship’s air emissions while in port to zero. This is a feature that has come as standard across all MSC Cruises new builds since 2017.

MSC Grandiosa will be deployed in the Western Mediterranean for the next 12 months before MSC Grandiosa is deployed to South America for winter 2020.

www.msccruises.com

Viking Announces New Ocean Offerings for 2021: Viking Venus and Additional Mediterranean Itineraries

lversea

Star-Clippers

www.vikingcruises.com

Uniworld

Viking

Windstar

Regent

Viking will also expand its offerings in the Mediterranean and today announced five new itineraries that include stops in Istanbul, marking the company’s return to the iconic city. The new 8-day Ancient Mediterranean Treasures will sail between Athens and Istanbul, with overnight stays in both cities. Guests

This announcement comes on the heels of several recent accolades for Viking. For the fourth consecutive year, Travel + Leisure readers voted Viking® to the top of its categories in the 2019 World’s Best Awards. In 2019, the company’s first five 930-guest sister ships dominated the Cruise Critic® 9th Annual Cruisers’ Choice Awards, receiving 11 First Place honors. Viking was again named the #1 River Cruise Line by Condé Nast Traveler in the publication’s 2018 Readers’ Choice Awards – and has also been honored as “Best Cruise Line for Luxury Ocean Cruises” and “Best Luxury River Cruise Company” in Luxury Travel Advisor magazine’s 2018 “Awards of Excellence” for a second consecutive year.

Princess

Viking has recently announced its seventh ocean ship, Viking Venus®, will join its award-winning fleet in early 2021, further solidifying the company’s standing as the largest and world’s best small-ship ocean cruise line. The newest 930-guest sister ship will spend her maiden season sailing popular itineraries in Scandinavia and Northern Europe, including British Isles Explorer, In Search of the Northern Lights, Viking Homelands and Into the Midnight Sun.

Beginning in April 2021 and sailing on Viking’s award-winning 930-guest allveranda Viking Sky®, guests embarking on the new Ancient Mediterranean Treasures itinerary or its longer combination cruise options will witness the origin of civilization while cruising the fabled Aegean Sea. Highlights of the new itinerary include: Istanbul, Troy (Çanakkale), Ephesus (Kuşadasi), Turkey and Rhodes, Heraklion and Athens, Greece.

Ponant

looking for an extended experience in the region can choose a longer versions of the itinerary, including the 15-day Ancient Adriatic Treasures, which sails between Venice and Istanbul; the 15-day Ancient Mediterranean Antiquities, which sails between Rome and Istanbul; the 22-day Iconic Mediterranean Treasures, which sails between Barcelona and Istanbul; or the 29-day Mediterranean’s Iconic Shores, which also sails between Barcelona and Istanbul and includes stops in Montenegro and Croatia.

Oceania

The newest flagship features a state-of-the-art selective catalytic reduction system which helps reduce nitrogen oxide emissions by 80

Currently, MSC Grandiosa and 10 other ships in MSC Cruises’ fleet of 17 ships are equipped for cleaner emissions with hybrid (closed-loop) EGCS. The line’s six other ships will be retrofitted with the technology by the end of 2023.

Norwegian

MSC Grandiosa was delivered on 31 October at the Chantiers de l’Atlantique shipyard in Saint-Nazaire, France and is heavily equipped with a comprehensive range of leading-edge environmental technologies and other solutions as with this ship MSC Cruises marks another significant step in its journey towards zero-emissions operations.

These new features add to other effective environmental technologies deployed on the ship and across the Company’s fleet to minimise and continuously reduce environmental impact, including: cutting-edge hybrid Exhaust Gas Cleaning Systems (EGCS) that remove up to 97 per cent of sulphur oxide from ship emissions; advanced waste management and wastewater treatment systems; ballast water treatment systems; latest-technology systems for the prevention of oil discharges from machinery spaces and various state-of-the-art energy-efficiency improvements – from heat recovery systems to LED lighting.

MSC

The Port of Rotterdam has recently welcomed the first call of MSC Grandiosa, one of the most environmentally-advanced ships at sea yet.

Hurtigruten

MSC Grandiosa Makes First Call to Rotterdam

37

40

UnPlug with UnCruise Article by Ilona Kauremszky, photography Stephen Smith

I

feel like I have the entire sea to myself.

On the edge of the planet's largest remaining tract of temperate rainforest waves are lapping around the S.S. Legacy. Not a soul around. We're sailing on one of the cruise itineraries from expedition cruise company, UnCruise Adventures called Alaska's Glacier Country, a 7-night thrilling adventure of Southeast Alaska.

For this city dweller it's like stepping onto another planet. But as soon as we start our cruise, magic suddenly happens.

A pod of Orca whales arrive.

It does.

Here we are only 30-minutes after leaving the cruise terminal in Juneau, Alaska on a small Victorian steamship replica, one of the small ships from the Seattle-based company, dining on freshly caught wild salmon when as fast as a New York minute the captain announces whales approaching starboard.

Whale sightings are a highlight of any cruise.

Spotting Orcas on the other hand I learned later from the captain remain one of the most elusive occurrences in the world. “Imagine 99.9 percent of the people living on this planet have never seen a live Orca whale in their natural habitat,” says Captain Tim Voss describing just one of the wildlife encounters we witnessed.

The Gastineau Channel opens up to a Mother Nature show of BBC Sir David Attenborough proportions. “See over there,” screams a voice. “Is that a baby whale?” asks another.

“How cool,” chimes in yet another guest as everyone gathers on the bow. These front row seats to the biggest cruise ticket around couldn't get any finer.

Home to the state's largest cruise port, cruisers in Juneau arrive to the Final Frontier state's capital to anticipate the unexpected. Prepare to get off-line and recharge the batteries especially on an expedition cruise that trans-

ports you to remote places where few have gone before.

Today's luxury seeking clients and those in need of a digital detox will imbibe in nature and feast on wilderness encounters never imagined. No regrets.

On The Legacy the attire is casual. Guests wear wellies and raincoats. When it's time to disembark our ports of call are marked by geographic locations and not towns – like Endicott Arm. Crew and guests give the mandatory “Viking Handshake” position that's a sturdy hand grip as we leave behind the mothership and its new Sea Dragon, a towed state-of-the-art trailer that allows for the swift launching of kayaks and inflatable skiff boats.

Over a week I got out of my comfort zone, doing things I never imagined. On our first day at sea we pulled into Glacier Bay National Park to pick up our Park Ranger Matt Earle who arrived at dawn in a thick fog via skiff boat surrounded by breaching humpback whales. The park has a rich fish food court off Bartlett Cove, a pleasure ground for humpback whales located in the vicinity of the Visitor Centre.

In Glacier Bay National Park we set our sights on John Muir territory. The great naturalist whose achievements spearheaded the United States National Park system was so mystified by the glaciers creating Yosemite Valley, he made the rigorous journey to Alaska in 1879 to see for himself what glaciers actually looked like.

These days only a handful of select cruise lines like UnCruise Adventures gain restricted park access and have limited viewing opportunities regulated by the National Parks system. Cruise guests enjoy the pristine natural surrounds without viewing a highway of ships in its path. Isolated. Remote. Only the primordial growls of wild animals and the blowhole gasps from whales with plenty of bird calls awaken the senses. We smelled the pungent musty odour of the endangered Stellar Sea Lions sunning and loudly grunting on South Marble Island before actually seeing them.

We laughed at the bobbing sea lions and zoomed our binoculars on rock outcroppings, home to mountain goats.

At the park's West Arm – a pair of glaciers stand side by side. The ship's engine shuts off.

We're facing the sheer white 21-mile long Margerie Glacier and the wider 34.5-mile long black tinged rocky Grand Pacific Glacier.

We stare at these tidewater glaciers watching Margerie's iridescent blue bergy bits bobbing by as the dramatic crash of more ice sheering off in a process known as calving enter the tidal waters. It's only the start of our glacier quest voyage.

Unlike the mid-sized to large cruise ships that ply the busy Pacific Ocean corridor, our adventure cruise sails the sheltered glassy calm Inside Passage. It's home to a rugged coastline of sky high walled canyons, hidden coves, glacier-cut fjords dotted by rocky islets and that's not counting the abundant wildlife encounters in this lush temperate coastal rainforest.

One morning we took a skiff boat to the “mainland.” It was bear territory. We meandered through meadows into gardens of wild orchids, chocolate lilies and the bell-shaped cassiope, looking at bear scat like it was an artifact from another world. From our expedition guide yelps erupted as did lyrical “DayO” sounds that resembled The Banana Boat Song. The high notes echoed through the southeast Alaskan summer breeze in this alfresco chamber of green. The only thing trying to bite us was an occasional pesky mosquito. (Watch our video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOyFQ O4SD68) We later sail south down the Chatham Strait considered the great marine highway of the protected Inside Passage between Baranof Island and the bear-rich Admiralty Island. The federally protected wilderness habitat is home to an estimated 1,600 brown bears, bald eagles and Sitka black-tailed deer. The smooth landscape pales in comparison to the towering glacier skyscrapers we left behind.

One day we play with critters. We anchor by Keku Islands, a group of islands in Southeast Alaska known for some of the finest tide-pooling. This natural phenomenon unleashes extraordinary sea creatures that surface during low tide giving you personal marine life encounters. Before the excursions, the expedition guides list the do's and don'ts of sustainable viewing.

Kayakers paddle into craggily coves to 41 discover how much life resides in the oxygen-rich intertidal water. A sea garden of clams, starfish, incredibly long bull kelp normally submerged during high tide have risen to the surface to curious eyes. On the volcanic rock left behind from the glaciation we gawk at the giant chitons and giant acorn barnacles hugging the salt and pepper surface. Baritone slurping sounds suck beneath my feet. Specs of clam shoot out air clouds in this mad dash for intertidal survival.

“Out here we have some of the highest tides in the world as well as the lows,” says Sarah, UnCruise Expedition Guide during our tide pool shoreline walk. “Water come back. Hear the squeaky sounds? It's time for them to squirt. Hear the gulping?”

I look down around my wellies. Standing on what was dry shoreline, in minutes my toes are now underwater as are the clams.

The S.S. Legacy had sailed off itinerary by this time – which is typical of UnCruise Adventures.

“We aim to go where the animals are,” explains owner Dan Blanchard of the unscripted itineraries to our fellow shipmates in a precruise briefing days earlier. He shows our group his brochure and flings it in the air.

“See this. You might as well forget it. We rely on our crew who get daily local updates of wildlife sightings. We want you to explore one of the best areas left on the planet for wildlife viewing.”

Indeed.

No loud music. No live entertainment. No cellphone service... and yes, no Wi-Fi either.

UnCruise is all about reconnecting to nature and sharing those moments with loved ones and new friends.

Be prepared to get unplugged. It's easy to do on UnCruise.

www.uncruise.com

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

42

The Sky’s The Limit with Sky Princess

by Olivia Balsinger

P

rincess Cruises lines couldn’t have named the latest vessel in her fleet, the Sky, any more suitably. At 19 stories high, towering over the seas as a moving spectacle, the sky truly is the limit for this striking ship. And, true to Princess form, Sky is top-of-the-line in innovation and ingenuity, designed with passenger ease at the forefront. Furthermore, precision in the design process was paramount for the ship - in fact, it took an estimated three million labour hours and 37,000 tons of steel to build the boat, the 18th in Princess’ fleet. Sky Princesses’ maiden voyage began in Trieste, Italy in mid-October

2019. It brought her to Fort Lauderdale in early December of the same year, where she was christened in her naming ceremony. Sky Princess is unrivaled in her amenities, design, and surplus of activities. Let’s take a closer look at what the newest Princess ship offers passengers: Accommodation

With 1,830 guest staterooms aboard Sky Princess, its no wonder there is an eclectic diversity in her accommodation offerings.

The ship boasts two Sky Suites, both of which feature the cruise industry’s largest

balconies at sea, measuring 1,012 square feet (starboard side Sky Suite) and 947 square feet (port side Sky Suite). Even better, these furnished balconies provide a private and stunning vantage point for the ship’s Movie Under the Stars screenings. Their size also makes them perfect for entertaining— and with 270-degree panorama views, the suites are ideal for hosting private parties and large family gatherings. Even more, guests in the Sky Suites have extra services such as a "suite experience manager" and are grated enticing special privileges, such as choosing which film shall be played on the ship’s gigantic screen.

“We’ve led the way on many innovations in the cruise industry, evolving to meet the needs of today’s vacationer and of all of our new stateroom innovations, we’ve never seen such immediate demand as we are for these Sky Suites,” said Jan Swartz, Princess Cruises president. “Our global fleet offers one of the highest percentages of balcony staterooms in the industry, across all cabin categories, and now we’re eager for the arrival of the industry’s largest balconies at sea, inviting guests to relax privately or host their very own en-suite celebrations in style.”

Pizzeria, and Swirls ice cream (we highly recommend tasting the mint chip!). Each day, the three main dining rooms - Estreslla, Cielo, and Spoleil - are open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

In addition to these two gems, there are 44 suites with private balconies and 374 MiniSuites with private balconies. Also, the ship boasts 311 deluxe balcony cabins, 753 balcony cabins, and six deluxe ocean view cabins spanning 19 decks. All Sky Princess accommodation comes standard with either a queen or two twin beds, a television entertainment system, and a private bathroom with a shower.

Activities Onboard

Food and Drinks

Trust us - you’ll never use the words “hunger” and “Sky Princess” in the same sentence - in fact, there are over 25 restaurants, and bars on board!

The ship’s vast array of cuisine fits any taste buds - from grabbing a slice at Alfredo’s Pizzeria to winding down with a glass of vino at Vines Wine Bar, Sky brings together all of the traditional outlets of her sister Princess ships, with new and innovative additions, as well. The famous Sabatini Italian Trattoria is a go-to for conventional Mediterranean dishes while the Bistro Sur La Mer, dedicated to inspired French cuisine created by the acclaimed Emmanuel Rena, is the choice for classic French favorites such as Filet de boeuf poelé (beef filet mignon.)

For those looking for a dose of English pub culture, The Salty Dog is the choice for fish and chips with a beer. Additionally, the Sky is home to a World Fresh Marketplace, which includes The Pastry Shop, Slice

Additionally, Princess Cruises has just unveiled an enhanced beverage menu featuring globally inspired signature cocktail offerings created by master mixologist Rob Floyd. My personal favorite? A Mint Divine, a creation made from Bombay Sapphire gin, ginger beer, cucumber, lime juice, simple syrup, and fresh mint.

A common misconception about cruise ships is that they are exclusively for the elderly or have limited options for activities, especially on sea days. Nothing can be further from the truth, especially aboard the dynamic and family-oriented Sky Princess.

Those who’ve always secretly craved fulfilling their pop star dreams can try out for Voice of the Ocean, which brings TV’s most popular singing competition to the high seas and a live audience. The process to Princess stardom begins with blind auditions, mentor sessions, the iconic “I Want You” chairs and ultimately concludes with a finale performance where passengers vote on the winner.

For those who would prefer to be dumbfounded by talent from the comfort of their theatre seat rather than showing off their vocal range, Princess Sky has plentiful alternative productions. Crafted by some of the world’s top directors and choreographers, Princess Sky spectacles utilize the destinations she visits to craft imaginative and inventive shows. They often incorporate Broadway classical songs, popular hits, along with original numbers performed by a talented cast.

Throughout the day and night, Princess Sky’s stunning open-air poolside amphitheater is a lively center for activities - from the premiere of feature films, to live concerts or sporting events, there is no shortage of

opportunity to be both an onlooker 43 and a participant. Even better, all of the featured movies include cozy fleece blankets and unlimited supplies of fresh-popped popcorn - essentials to enjoy a cinema under the stars!

The Sky Princess also boasts plenty of aquatic options for those hoping to exercise by swimming laps or float and suntan, pina colada in hand. Between two deep-tank pools on the lively top decks, an infinitystyle Wakeview pool and bar on the ship’s aft end, and plenty of spa hot tubs, the choices are endless for aspiring mermaids and mermen.

Princess MedallionClass

Another innovative addition to Sky Princess is the MedallionClass - a complimentary key all passengers are given to be connected anywhere onboard the ship. So what is this seemingly magical contraption anyway? According to Princess Cruises, “Ocean Medallion is a first-of-its-kind wearable device that elevates every moment before, during, and after your Ocean Medallion Vacation. From on-demand food and drinks, interactive gaming, custom entertainment, and smart navigation, Medallion makes cruising simpler, and more personal and enjoyable than ever.” On such an immense ship, the complimentary OceanMedallion, with its leading-edge technology and personalized service through enhanced guest-crew interactions, helps organizes passengers and give them a service that is seamless and personalized.

Though the cruising industry is ever-changing and new ships are continually being christened, Princess Cruises stays true to the company values of maintaining a superior sailing experience for guests while incorporating ingenuity and innovative technology, prioritizing comfort and ease. Trust us when we say, with Sky Princess, the sky truly is the limit. www.princess.com

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

Crystal Cruises

44

Romantic Europe on the Reimagined

“Crystal Serenity” b y J a n i c e a n d G e o rg e M u c a l o v

Photo: Mucalov

We were visiting Kotor while on a 7-night cruise on the deluxe Crystal Serenity, calling in at some of Europe’s most romantic ports. And

Kotor must take the prize for being the most beautiful cruise port anywhere!

Kotor Steep mountains rise up dramatically on either side of the Bay of Kotor, nicknamed the “southernmost fjord of Europe.” The car-free Old Town itself is a maze of cobbled alleys, with medieval stone buildings sporting characteristic green shutters.

Crystal Cruises

In Kotor, we could have taken a shore excursion to Perast, an old Venetian town packed with Baroque palaces. A short boat trip away is a tiny islet with the remarkable Church of Our Lady of the Rocks. Or we could have visited the ancient seaside resort of Budva, dotted with beaches.

We’re glad, though, that we chose the 2.5hour roundtrip hike to the fortress. The food on Crystal Serenity is so darn good we needed the exercise.

Crystal Cruises

W

e’d been warned. Climbing up the 1,350 stone steps to St. John’s Fortress in Kotor, Montenegro, is a thigh-burner. But we stopped so many times to gape at the gorgeous views of Kotor’s redtiled medieval roofs and the turquoise inlet on which the UNESCO city sits that we didn’t huff and puff too much.

Silk, a Chinese-inspired venue featuring Chinois soup, a noodle bar and dim-sum, occupies what used to be Tastes. At night, the casual café is now the Brazilian-style Churrascaria (gauchos carve grilled meats tableside from sword-like skewers). And Waterside, which replaces the former main dining room, now offers more intimate seating with tables for two and four.

Umi Uma was perhaps our favourite restaurant. Serving Japanese-Peruvian specialties from Master Chef Nobu Matsuhisa – prepared by his personally-trained chefs – the exclusive Umi Uma eateries on both Crystal Serenity and Symphony are the only Nobu restaurants at sea. Each guest gets one complimentary reservation per cruise. But we managed to slide into the sushi bar section of the specialty restaurant a second night for another crack at the rock shrimp tempura, sautéed mushroom salad and lobster with truffle-yuzu sauce. The celebrated chef’s privately branded Chardonnay went down very smoothly too.

Prego, Crystal’s Italian restaurant, was also a hit. Indeed, after boarding in Civitavecchia (Rome’s cruise port), we joked with our waiter that the ship’s kitchen could teach the Romans something about Italian food. Prego’s signature mushroom soup is no ordinary soup, but a divinely creamy concoction served in a scooped-out sourdough bread bowl. And the beef carpaccio is masterfully presented – at the table, fresh lemon juice is squeezed onto the thinnest slices of beef, then Spanish olive oil and aged Balsamic are drizzled on top. A sprinkling of finely grated Parmesan caps off the dish. And don’t get us started on the home-made pastas!

Dubrovnik and Other Ports Sadly, we knew that one hike in Kotor wouldn’t be enough to prevent those calories from sticking. More exercise would be needed.

Crystal Cruises

So in Dubrovnik, we forsook lazing about on the beach in favour of walking around the

Our ship also called in at Sorrento on Italy’s Amalfi Coast and Corfu on its way to Venice.

We’d previously visited these places; the Amalfi Coast, in particular, is drop-dead stunning. But the truth is, after going ashore for a while, we actually preferred just enjoying the ship.

Stylish New Suites How could we not? We were splashing out in one of the 36 new Seabreeze Penthouses, totally gussied up in the late 2018 refit.

Crystal essentially took a number of Deluxe Staterooms with Veranda and converted them, almost two for one, into these new 339 sq. ft. Seabreeze Penthouses (reducing the passenger numbers from 1,070 to 980).

Large queen-size bed? Check. Walk-in closet (with Frette bathrobes, kimonos and slippers)?

Of course. Butler service? You bet. We especially liked the spa-like bathroom with double sinks, lots of drawers for toiletry kits and a large glass rain-shower (bigger than ours at home) with easy push-knobs and great water pressure – the best bathroom of the 50+ ships we’ve cruised on (no tub though). Minor niggle: There’s little room between the end of the bed and the long coffee table in front of the couch opposite (so we squished the coffee table into the corner).

Most staterooms and suites on the ship (85%) have verandas. Out on ours, we’d read, nap and dip into our fridge, stocked with our chosen drinks. As a top-tier cruise line, Crystal includes all champagne, premium spirits and fine wines, anywhere on the ship, in the rates.

Pool and Palm Court Or we’d lounge on a comfy cushioned recliner under an umbrella by the pool.

Around the pool, in fact, was a popular place to hang out. Because this cruise was a shorter

45

Crystal Cruises

During a one-month dry dock in November, 2018, Crystal Cruises extensively refurbished the ship. The restaurants were totally spiffed up – and Serenity now offers several new and enhanced open-seating dining options.

medieval stone walls encircling most of the UNESCO-listed Old Town. From up top, we gazed at a maze of red clay roofs, jumbled together with Baroque palaces and churches.

At the seaside section of the wall, we peered down at a little café carved into the rocks, where people dove into the deep blue Adriatic before climbing back up for another slug of their coffee.

one-week cruise, guests tended to be part of the well-traveled “working wealthy” class, many in their 40s and 50s. They were making the most of their warm-weather holiday, and the champagne flowed freely. In fact, while Crystal offers longer voyages around the world, it’s upped the number of one-week cruises for 2020, which appeal to younger guests, and added 100 new itineraries.

Indoors, the Palm Court at the bow has also been dolled up and is now very pretty in purple. Craving a civilized afternoon tea or quiet spot to look out floor-to-ceiling windows? This is the place – settle yourself in a wingback chair, rest your feet on a footstool and let the world pass you by.

Romantic Venice One of the most enchanting times on our trip was the two-hour cruise into Venice late in the morning. Bellinis were the order of the day as we entered the lagoon, rippled with different hues of aqua and blue. We passed several islands – and then Venice itself came into view. There was St. Mark’s Square, with gondolas bobbing in front, and the Doge’s Palace, which looks like a giant wedding cake. Along the Giudecca Canal, trattorias were lined with flower-decked terraces. It was all so gorgeous, most guests were out on deck, jostling for prime photo spots.

Who needed to take a vaporetto or gondola to see Venice’s sights from the water! Nothing could beat our scenic sail-in under a warm September sun. Still, it was a bitter-sweet arrival. Because while we’d be docking at one of the world’s most romantic cities, we would soon be leaving the Crystal Serenity.

www.crystalcruises.com

Crystal Cruises

Reimagined Restaurants

Photo: Mucalov

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

46

Canal Cruising Do you know the Secrets of Luxury Barges in Europe?

by Lisa TE Sonne

Y

ou may have experienced oceanic cruising and even river cruising, but have you tried canal cruising on waterways first built centuries ago? In 1787 Thomas Jefferson, then the U.S. Ambassador to France, wrote that of all the modes of transport he had tried, canals and their parallel foot paths were the “pleasantest form of travel.” Canal cruising has become one of my favorite modes of travel, too.

Europe is still networked with hundreds of miles of canals, but today luxury “barges” serve as floating boutique hotels, with eight to 22 passengers, for peaceful and intimate cruises to untouristed villages and towns as well as classic sites. Not only do you moor next to lovely scenery, sometimes even near castles or windmills, you travel at a pace that

lets you really take in the realm with all your senses, and you can make the trip very relaxing or very active.

You can sit on the open top deck and watch and smell and hear the world languidly glide by. You feel the sun and winds while consuming local foods and drinks. If you prefer, jump off with a bike at a canal lock. Then, pedal along the parallel “towpaths” that were once used for the animals and people who pulled the commercial and passenger barges before the era of motors.

If you are like me, you may also choose to pedal down connecting paths into villages or up to churches and ramparts. Mix with the locals or take in more nature, then quickly pedal back to catch up with your boutique barge at another lock. You can end the adventure by sitting in the hot tub, enjoying the floating ride.

European Waterways currently offers 17 vessels in nine different countries, making “barging” a cultural and culinary experience. Each trip includes a great chef onboard who culls local ingredients, and a server who specializes in the local cheeses and wines, generously offering different ones every lunch and din-

ner! A van or vans follow the boat’s path, and every day, memorable shore excursions are provided. The historian guide who knows the roads and history is flexible to what paces and places the small group of passengers wants.

Scotland - Highlander Highs In Scotland, my husband and I enjoyed the lox, locks, and lochs, as we ate fine Scottish salmon, navigated through the famous Caledonian Locks (once the “greatest engineering feat of the planet”), and explored the natural lochs, including the Loch Ness. Alas, no monster sighted, but the Captain let me steer the boat then, which was scary enough for others. Loch is Scottish for lake, and the Ness one is particularly beautiful (and deep and wide, so safe for me to steer through).

The Caledonian Locks were built before the Panama Canal and Suez Canal systems.

Queen Victoria’s 1873 cruise of the Caledonian canals and lochs of much of our route helped popularize travel in that part of gorgeous Scotland. Now, in the 21st century, custom hotel barges and other narrow pleasure boats can experience the 29 locks of the Caledonian canals.

Claudia, one of the best guides I’ve ever had, took us to see some of the Roman, Etruscan, Byzantine, and Renaissance influences; to have private tours of wineries; and to walk around on small lagoon islands. At one point we disembarked and were driven to Villa Ca Zen, where Lord Byron had once composed some of his best work while trying to hide out for a deep romantic affair. We were treated to a private tour by the owner, and a sumptuous meal in the Villa dining room.

All this in a week without having to pack and unpack, or cook, or clean, or worry about road maps or train schedules, made cruising on “La Bella Vita” a beautiful life.

Holland - Tulips and Windmills

We loved approaching castles from the water and then touring them, but the strongest single memory is gliding through raw gorges with no signs of humanity, and faintly hearing mysterious, haunting bagpipe music that crescendoed as we proceeded. When we rounded a bend, a solitary bagpipe player in full Scottish regalia stood on vibrant green hills among the sheep. We moored near him, and he spent the evening showing us how bagpipes work and giving the eight passengers a private concert.

Italy - The Beautiful Life Cruising in the iconic Grand Canal of Venice and then journeying to villages without tourists in the Po Valley was a romantic and stunning way to see Italy with my husband.

We had chosen this route to celebrate a milestone birthday of mine, and the trip exceeded expectations-- from visiting Mantua and the theater where Mozart performed, to our last night, when the chef brought in a new apricot desert he had created for my birthday.

Holland is known for art, canals, cheeses, tulips, and windmills. We got it all. Starting in Amsterdam and heading through countryside canals in Spring was the perfect girlfriends’ getaway for me and for Kathy, a gardening and hiking bff since we were seven years old.

Kathy was all in for exploring independently as we rode bikes through different towns to look at the colorful home gardens and to check out picturesque working windmills close up. She also whole-heartedly enjoyed the cheese and wine pairings at lunch and dinner, and the fun company of fellow travelers.

Spring in the world-famous Keukenhof Gardens was a sensory feast showcasing what beauty humans and nature can create together. We also visited the world’s largest flower auction in Aalsmer, to see how millions of flowers are shipped worldwide. The renowned museums and architecture of Amsterdam, Leiden, and Haarlem, and the Royal Delft China center in Delft, were all beautiful group shore excursions.

A salient cruising memory was sitting in the hot tub outside, while bucolic scenes seemed to drift by. The staff brought us flutes of champagne, and we toasted. We rounded the bend and suddenly the grassy banks were full of buildings. We tried ducking into the bubbles of the spa while not losing the bubbles of our drinks, as we cruised under a bridge with people overhead cheering and giving us “thumbs up”!

Page and I signed up for the Burgundy 47 trip and started in a mutually favorite city -Paris- for a couple of days before being treated like royalty on the barge. The shore excursions included chateaus, wineries, monasteries, museums, and even the village where the movie “Like Water for Chocolate” was filmed.

Page is a wonderful painter, and I mentioned that I would love a watercolor lesson from her using water from the French canals. A staff member overheard and found watercolors and paper for us in the next village. Other passengers joined in, and we had a creative comradery.

We both loved that every lock had a lock keeper’s house and the diversity of lock keepers that appeared was fantastic-a whole family tumbling out, a bearded guy vrooming up on his motorcycle. One lock keeper was an artist who shared his larger than life papiermaché creatures out on the canal banks.

When the trip was over, we did not want to say “au revoir.”

General There are some possible cons of barges compared to other cruise vehicles depending on your preferences: smaller cabins (unless you pay extra), no private balconies, and no climbing walls and casinos like large cruise ships. Another possible downside is the intimacy of being with the same small group of people for every meal and excursion.

Fortunately, I have really enjoyed the fellow passengers and the range of conversations. I also love how intimately barges let you interact with the land and cultures you are travelling through.

I still have more “barging” I’d like to do. My husband and I muse, Should we clink glasses in the Champagne region of France? Or float down the Thames and enjoy antiques and castles? Or is Ireland, Belgium, or Germany calling out? And I have to wonder, what would Thomas Jefferson say about this 21st century mode of canal traveling?

www.europeanwaterways.com

France - oui, oui!

A kindred spirit from graduate school and I chose France for girlfriend catch-up, to laugh about the past and make more memories for the future. European Waterways has the most tour offerings in France, which has the most canals. Itineraries include Champagne, Bordeaux, Gascony, Burgundy, the Loire Valley, and Alsace and Lorraine, as well as the Canal du Midi that Jefferson enjoyed.

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

48

A Round of Applause for The Encore, NCL’s latest hit

by Anne-Marie Macloughlin

W

hen choosing a sunny getaway the choices can be overwhelming.

Gone are the days of the basic three meal deal and limited entertainment while landlocked: nowadays cruise lines are the vacation of choice for couples and families alike and with good reason. Finding a versatile package that caters to all tastes and demographics can be challenging when seeking a spot that satisfies sun worshippers, sportsmen, foodies and fans of live entertainment. With customer satisfaction a top priority Norwegian Cruise Lines’ latest addition to the fleet does just that.

Christened in the fall of 2019, The Encore revolutionizes cruising as we know it.

Flexibility is the name of the game when booking a holiday so NCL took note and provides guests with an experience they can tailor to their needs. Mealtimes are flexible, dress code relaxed and entertainment varied.

Accommodations range from solo traveler staterooms to suites and their “ship within a ship” the Haven. No ship would be complete without a few state-of-the-art recreational options and the Encore delivers with an 1150 foot-long 2-tier go kart race track on the top deck which reaches 13 feet over the side of the ship!

A big part of the excitement of cruising is when you embark on these behemoths of the seas. As we arrive at the Port of Miami we’re greeted with a line up of dazzling white palaces, the port having the honour of being the busiest cruise terminal in the world. Even for experienced cruisers it can be baffling when seeking your vessel but with the Encore, NCL has made it easy to identify. A dazzling splash of colour adorns the hull courtesy of Eduardo Arranz-Bravo, an award-winning Spanish artist. Inspired by the vibrant experience that is cruising on the Encore, ArranzBravo’s mural makes the Encore a standout amongst vessels.

After a short apres-dejeuner nap it was time to explore. The Encore offers diverse entertainment and recreation including the aforementioned go karts, laser tag and a virtual reality experience at the Galaxy Pavilion. As a transit user who doesn’t drive I couldn’t wait to try my hand at go karting which is a popular choice requiring early booking. As the staff helped me into my cart I started to lose my nerve and felt slightly claustrophobic when they snapped on the helmet; that said I was happy to experience the unusual sensation of whizzing around sharp bends with the ocean in the background.

For younger guests the Encore provides a children’s aqua park and for the older set, the Entourage teen club where music, video games and movies provide an alternative to hanging out with the parents. Early years coordinators assist parents with the youngest guests at Guppies, sensory activities and toy time providing self-guided play. Grown ups can bust a move at the Pulse Fitness Centre or unwind in the Spa, hot stone massage and a relaxing steam room just a few of the pampering options on offer.

After wrangling busy airport line-ups and transfers nothing hits the spot like a sumptuous lunch and cool drink. The self-serve Garden Café offers a mouth-watering selection that pleases all palates from tasty barbeque dishes to vegan and vegetarian options. The well-stocked bar provides cocktails for every taste and the knowledgeable staff are happy to advise baffled passengers spoiled for choice. No shipboard buffet would be complete without an ocean-themed spread, this pescatarian overwhelmed with the choice of giant tiger shrimp, calamari and juicy salmon steaks. Dinner options offer specialty dining including the award-winning Onda by Scarpetta, Mediterranean charm and classic elegance all round. For lovers of Art Deco and the choice of modern and classic dishes, the Manhattan Room offers delicious fare with distinguished presentation, the high ceilings and retro décor evoking 1920s decadence.

A relaxing vacation wouldn’t be complete without the first brew of the day. I was cheered to see an actual Starbucks onboard with the usual selection and even some winter-themed drinks on offer (think Gingerbread Latte). Be warned though, the lineups are ridiculously long and the staterooms have a coffee maker handy for the queue-averse. For a post-dinner beverage pick your poison; rum-lovers will gravitate towards the Sugarcane Mojito Bar where I highly recommend the Jalapeno Mojito. For a more vintage experience the Cellars Wine Bar and its resident sommelier is an educational experience whether you favour a beefy Merlot or flirty rose. My favourite was the Mixx Bar where the experienced mixologists provides happy Canadians with a first class Bloody Caesar!

When traveling to warmer climes it makes sense to stay hydrated and a major initiative for the Encore is the elimination of plastic water bottles with the aim to be plastic free by Jan 1 2020 with its new plant-based cartons courtesy of JUST Inc. With the temperatures reaching the high 70s it made sense to stock up for our day trip to Great Stirrup Cay, NCLs

private island. Part of the Berry Islands, 49 GSC is a former military base that’s customised for guests of the cruise line, its meals and drinks included. As we disembarked from the short tender we were overwhelmed with the smell of bbq beach fare, fresh ocean air and the fragrance of lush tropical blooms. Sun loungers are plentiful, towels preplaced on each and a variety of watersports are available including parasailing, stand up paddling and for the more timid, floating sunbeds.

For the savvy souvenir shopper check out the Berry Market where you can hunt down colourful garments and shell jewellery; I even got a speedy hairdo courtesy of local stylists.

Although the traditional braids feel a bit like a bargain facelift they’re the perfect do for a hot day in the islands and last for a few weeks. NCL also runs several daily excursions to Treasure Island to see the famous Bahamian swimming pigs; due to the popularity of this tour book early. Also be aware that the island vendors only take US dollars and there is no debit or credit available.

After a languid day of sea, sun and sand we return to the ship to freshen up for dinner, cocktails and a show. Evening entertainment is hard to pick; do we rock along to the Tony Award-winning show “Kinky Boots” or sing along with “The Choir of Man?” Maybe an intimate evening with a Beatles cover band in the cozy Cavern bar or some stand up comedy at The Social Club? The Encore has it all so we finally enjoyed the antics of the rabblerousing reprobates of “The Choir of Man” and their energetic cover versions of beloved popular songs set in an Irish pub.

Cruise life isn’t for everyone; if it’s a quiet getaway you seek the amount of on-board amenities can be overwhelming and the size of the Encore alone can be confusing. That said, where else can you access 5-star dining, luxury shopping, VIP spa treatment, Broadway-calibre shows and the opportunity to swim with pigs on Treasure Island? Many of us are seeking a break from real life where we can recharge and regenerate and pack as much as we can into a vacation. In this, the Encore delivers.

www.ncl.com

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

Steve Herud

Luxury Hotels...Grand Resorts...Charming B&B...Opulent Villas...Quaint C

25hours Hotel, The Royal Bavarian, Munich

by Michael Morcos

Funky is a good way of describing this hotel, so is cool, hip or even psychedelic! The 25 Hours Hotel is anything but a cookie cutter property, far from it. The designers and decorators of this hotel took every opportunity of making things abnormal. Even the hotel name throws you for a loop.

Our hotel adventure started upon arrival where we climbed to the first-floor reception and found a red, antique, tissue covered couch in the elevator. On arriving to the welcome desk our senses were again attacked as we would feel like we were in a Sargent Pepper album cover. The scenario continued past the check-in through the blue coloured hallway to our dazzling room. It was wonder at first sight! Just about every detail in our room was a conscientious work of art. Like books that fill in for bed legs. An all-black toilet - tiles, walls and bowl. How about the new washroom sink, faucet and counter that resemble something from a century ago. It was all very puzzling and yet it worked.

As for location, Munich was practically at our doorstep. Located directly in front of the train station, getting to and from any European destination was easy. At the corner of the street was a metro station and Munich’s major attractions were just a short walk away.

Breakfasts at the hotel were delightful. Served buffet style, the choices were varied and plentiful, starting with wonderful fresh and hearty German breads, fine cheeses and delicious cold cuts to eggs prepared in any style. The atmosphere in the breakfast room echoed the hotel. Weird, wild and just about right, as were the mostly young to middle aged clients.

Travelling is all about the new and different. A stay at the 25 Hours Hotel was refreshing and certainly memorable. After a stay like this, it sure did make me think about how boring some hotels really are and with properties across Europe; the experience can carry on and on.

Steve Herud

www.25hours-hotels.com

Steve Herud

Stay & Play

Section

S w e e t D r e a m s A r o u n d t h e Wo r l d

50

NH Collection Madrid Suecia

by Michael Morcos When in Spain stay with the Spanish, and hotel chains do not come any more Spanish than the NH hotel group. Now operating more than 350 hotels in 28 markets, this Madrid-based hotel group knows how to do hospitality right as I would attest to on this, my fourth stay with this chain.

Our recent trip to Madrid would bring us to a NH Collection property, on the upper end of the hotel offerings is the NH Collection Suecia hotel, which is perfectly located on a quiet side street close to most of the major sites. A half block away was the intersections of the busy and well-appointed boulevards of Calle de Alcalá and Gran Via. A short distance from here is the world famous Prado museum, the majestic Plaza Mayor and the centre of Spain – the Puerta del Sol. To add to this great location, the hotel is handsomely decorated with a Scandinavia look and feel. Upon arriving you could feel a buzz in the air. The restaurant and bar situated on the ground floor were filled with clients and visitors enjoying the great atmosphere.

The staff was extremely helpful and took every opportunity of assisting us through our checkin.

My room was just about perfect, clean and comfortable with all the modern amenities one would expect from a high-end hotel. Not wanting to miss out on visiting the sites I would break away for a few hours to see the best this beautiful city had to offer only to return to the tranquillity of my home away from home.

Unfortunately, I did not visit the rooftop bar. I was told it had a panoramic view of the whole of Madrid. Kind of felt good about it as now I will have to return.

www.nh-hotels.com

New York London Paris Tokyo Hong Kong Bali Rome Thailand Monaco Amsterdam Berlin Ibiza Montreal Tanzania Hawaii Rio Madrid Ca Manila Singapore Mumbai Chicago Jerusalem Moscow Egypt Bora Bora China Japan Santorini Osaka Los Angeles Barcelona Santiago Washi o Iceland Orlando Beverly Hills Melbourne Mallorca San Diego Crete New York London Paris Tokyo Hong Kong Bali Rome Thailand Monaco

Country Inns...Luxary Safari Camps...Ecolodges...Ice...Cave...Treetop... Hotels

51

of the three most beautiful gardens in all of Japan. And then there is the amazing Museum of Contemporary Art and small streets with artistic cafes, as you complete a circle back to the Tokyu Hotel.

John Yang noted that Kanazawa, with a population of 500,000 has the same viewing/tourism potential as Tokyo and Kyoto, but it’s easier to digest. In fact he noted that “the food is fresher, the people are extremely friendly and there are lots of hands-on activities designed for visitors”.

Since the Shinkansen (the bullet train) was directly linked to Kanazawa from Tokyo in 2015, tourism to Japan’s Golden Triangle (Tokyo to Hokuriku (Kanazawa) to Kansai (Kyoto) has increased significantly. And for those looking to use Kanazawa as a base, it’s only one hour to Shirakawago (the famous Gasho-Zukuri (praying hands) houses) and to Wajima on the tip of the Noto peninsula.

The Kanazawa Tokyu Hotel Article and photography by Steve Gillick

Y

ou could not ask for a better location than the Kanazawa Tokyu Hotel. Zhi “John” Yang, the Overseas Sales Representative explained that “our guests feel they are right in the center of Kanazawa”, and he was absolutely correct!

Turn left outside the front door and you’re in the famous Nagamachi Samurai District with the Nomura Clan Family Home and its twostar Michelin garden.

If you turn right outside the hotel, you’re in one of the city’s major shopping areas complete with Starbucks, restaurants and depart-

ment stores such as Tokyu Hands (a great store for buying unique Japanese items). And behind Tokyu Square you’ll find Chokichi, for a super-friendly, stand-up sake bar experience.

And many of Kanazawa’s main attractions are only 20 to 30 minute’s walk from the hotel. This includes the Oyama Jinja Shrine (take a selfie with the lucky Golden Frogs), the Omi-cho Fish Market (colorful displays, engaging vendors…and you can eat there too), Kanazawa Castle Park (visit the partially restored Castle that was originally built in 1583), and Kenroku-en, designated as one

But the attraction of the Kanzawa Tokyu Hotel goes beyond location with its unique Japanese style. The wallpaper in the hallways depicts a winter scene of “yukizuri”, which are the wooden frames that are built around trees to protect them from the winter winds and snow (you can see yukizuri in Kenrokuen garden). The elevators reflect a gold leaf design, paying homage to the local legend that explains the meaning of ‘Kanazawa’ as ‘Marsh of Gold’. In fact, visitors can get involved in the gold leaf industry which dates to the end of the 16th century, by taking a gold leaf workshop and eating gold ice cream! And even the hallway carpets in the hotel have a Japanese feel with designs of gold sakura (cherry blossoms). It’s all very well done!

The ultimate measure of contentedness, of course, is in the quality of the hotel room, and our room was comfortable, quiet and spacious with a great view of the Japanese Alps. I’ll stay here again!

www.tokyuhotels.co.jp/kanazawa-h/

pe Town Beijing Sydney Vancouver Ecuador Malaysia Crete Stockholm Maldives Peru Miami Shanghai Tahiti Riviera Maya Las Vegas Toronto B ngton Jakarta Marrakesh Boston Botswana Copenhagen New Delhi Dubai Sao Paulo Bangkok Auckland Boracay Uganda Banff Guangzhou Casa o Amsterdam Berlin Ibiza Montreal Tanzania Hawaii Rio Madrid Cape Town Beijing Sydney Vancouver Ecuador Malaysia Crete Stockholm M

Advertorial

Golf

Accommodations Puntacana Resort & Club is the Caribbean’s leading resort community on the eastern shore of the Dominican Republic. Tortuga Bay is member of the Leading Hotels of the World and the only AAA Five Diamond awarded hotel in the Dominican Republic, offering understated elegance, privacy and unparalleled personal service. Located at Playa Blanca is The Westin Puntacana Resort & Club, guest enjoys all of Westin’s signature amenities and Don Queco Cigar Bar. Our Four Points by Sheraton is situated at Puntacana Village, few minutes away from Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ).

The Estates Become a part of our magnificent paradise community with the purchase of a vacation home in the elite The Estates at Puntacana Resort & Club, where Julio Iglesias, Mikhail Baryshnikov call home.

An exclusive lifestyle of relaxation, excitement and understated elegance, prospective buyers can choose among elegant homes perched above the Caribbean Sea or overlooking scrupulously manicured golf courses in Corales, Tortuga, Arrecife, Hacienda, Hacienda del Mar and Marina.

Home and apartments are also available at Puntacana Village.

With 45 holes of championship golf, Puntacana Resort & Club is the Caribbean’s premier golf & beach destination. The P.B. Dye designed La Cana Golf Course, consisting of 27 holes across Tortuga, Arrecife and Hacienda, was declared the number one course in the Caribbean by Golf Magazine. Designed

by Tom Fazio and set between rocky cliffs, coral reefs and the expansive Caribbean Sea, the Corales Golf Course features six oceanfront holes, multiple lines of approach and picturesque canyons, making for an exhilarating experience.

Activities & Spa Puntacana Resort & Club offers a wide range of adventures for guests of all ages including golf, tennis, kite boarding, scuba diving, horseback riding, fishing and numerous excursions by sea, land and air.

The leading spa in the Caribbean, Six Senses Spa at Puntacana Resort & Club presents a range of innovative packages, Signature treatments and Asian therapies.

Visit Galerías Puntacana to enjoy an assortment of shops, restaurants, playground, and our spirited nightlife.

Dining Puntacana Resort & Club is home to 6 world class eateries with an indigenously delectable cuisine. Tucked inside Tortuga Bay, the AAA Four Diamond awarded Bamboo blends modern cuisine with Mediterranean influences. Specializing in local seafood, The AAA Three Diamond Award La Yola is located at the Marina. At La Cana Golf & Beach Club is The Grill, an American style grill offering views of the sea. The Westin Puntacana Resort & Club provides a variety or restaurants and bars from Ananí to Brassa Grill. Next door is Playa Blanca, a beachfront tropical restaurant. Our Dine Around Program offers the best sampling of our finest culinary experience. All restaurants offer complimentary shuttle service within the resort.

More dining options are available at Puntacana Village.

Corporate Social Responsibility We believe that in development there needs to be equilibrium among the economic, environmental and social components. Our non-profit Grupo Puntacana Foundation serves both natural and social resources, while contributing to the sustainable development of our Dominican Republic. These practices have been guiding principles of our company, and along with vision, hard work and perseverance, the key to our success.

Punta Cana International airport Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ), built, owned and operated by Grupo Puntacana, the resort’s developers, and located within Puntacana Resort & Club, is just minutes away from check-in at any of our hotels or private homes. Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ) has direct service from 98 different cities around the world, making Punta Cana the most accessible destination in the Caribbean.

Our VIP terminals service the needs of guests flying in private aircrafts.

The Caribbean’s Premiere Golf & Beach Resort Community

www.puntacana.com

54

Bungalow Beach Resorts: Floridian Tropical Bliss on Anna Maria Island

by Jennifer Merrick

They look like parrots,” I remarked to my daughter who was pointing at the colourful blue and green birds on the telephone wire. But that wasn’t possible, was it? We were in Florida after all, hardly far enough south for these tropical feathered creatures.

“

where you can buy fish straight off the boat.

We experienced this special treat in nearby Cortez Village, where we watched folks buying fish after it was weighed on the dock, while enjoying the most succulent peel-and-eat shrimp imaginable at Tide Tables Restaurant.

“They were parrots,” said local Gayle Luper. “Many people don’t realize our climate zone is the same as much of the Caribbean.”

It would take thirty minutes to drive across the island, but why drive when there was a free trolley that ran from one end of the island to another. Golf carts were another popular means of transportation, and seeing them driven on the main road exemplified the laid-back vibe of AMI to a tee. My favourite form of transport though was walking barefoot on the beach, which we spent most of our time doing while staying at Bungalow Beach Resort.

I certainly hadn’t. Not only did that explain our sighting, but also how gloriously turquoise and warm the water was.

We were on Anna Maria Island, a barrier island on Florida’s gulf coast about an hour south of Tampa. Often referred to as AMI, it’s a locale that encapsulates the so-called ‘Old Florida’. Buildings are limited to three stories, and it’s one of the few places left

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

This classic accommodation is Anna Maria Island in a nutshell – unpretentious and serenely beautiful. Each of the fifteen cedar

bungalows has their own charm and range from one-room studios to two-bedroom bungalows with a private pool. All feature original architectural details of its 1930’s construction with original hardwood floors and wood-beamed cathedral ceilings. The white wicker furniture and beachy accents evoked an island mentality as soon as we crossed the threshold. A fully-equipped kitchen, BBQ grills in the courtyard and colourful beach lounge chairs were some of the amenities provided.

But it was the view when we slid the back door open that endeared me to this property forever. The back porch sat right on the beach, providing a postcard perfect view of fine white sand stretching out to the turquoise water and blue skies on par with any tropical paradise I’ve had the good fortune to visit. Complete with parrots. www.bungalowbeach.com

55

Breathless Riviera Cancun - Viva the Vibe Choice!

by Susan Campbell

Can you have trendy, luxurious, energetic and laid-back all in one place at an upscale, adult-only all-inclusive resort? Yes, you can!

O

pened in 2016, Breathless Riviera Cancun Resort & Spa is an upscale adult-only all-inclusive of 526 ultrachic suites located near Puerto Morales about 20 minutes from the airport. They have a signature offering- Unlimited Luxury®- which means boundless gourmet dining and premium brand beverages at multiple stand-alone themed restaurants and fab bars and lounges. And the 24/7 room service is also a huge bonus! The concept of this resort brand is squarely focused on energetic millennial travellers seeking lots of action - think foam pool parties, booming music and late-night blow-outs. But in this resort you can have the best of all possible worlds.

Being a ‘mature’ traveler, sometimes I simply want to chill by the sea without having to feel like I’m missing all the fun. But that’s the beauty of this spot- the design is pure genius.

You can slide from vibe to vibe and back again without skipping a beat. But if you want

to experience the entire range of ambiance options there, you must choose to stay at the Xhale Club wing.

Xhale Zone VIP treatment is the rule at the Xhale Clubprivate check-in and concierge, and an exclusive club lounge space are a few of the perks.

Elevated accommodations include spacious modern, rooms with big whirlpool tubs on the balcony, or a choice of luxe swim-out suites.

Exclusive entrance to the Xhale Club private pool and the Kibbeh restaurant- an enchanting alfresco dining spot on the sea are also part of the package. I loved the layout and the Zen music at the infinity pool, but when it’s time to take it up a notch, head next door to the Xcelerate Pool zone.

Xcelerate Zone The Xcelerate Pool crests the nexus of the community courtyard where you will find all the dining spots. It also and serves as the main social gathering venue for special events like the weekly Neon Party. The After Dark nightclub is also found there, and the massive Spoon Buffet is open 24/7 – a first I’ve seen at an all-inclusive. (Ideal for late night munchies.) There you’ll find the easy-going partiers kicking back in couches in the pool, or in the large whirlpool or pool bar by the sea, and maybe playing a game of beach vol-

leyball. The music is lively, but not too loud!

This is also where they hold their fantastic Saturday night beach barbecue- one of the best I’ve ever had, so don’t miss it!

High Energy Zone Don’t get too comfortable in that oasis though, because a carnival style “Champagne Parade” will soon show up to remind you that there is yet another much higher-octane option right next door, and beckon you to follow them there. If you do, you’ll find yourself in the thick of the South Beach style blow-out at the Energy Zone replete with exclusive champagne bars, hot DJs, and really loud music! The vibe is infectious, so you’re bound to do some bootyshaking no matter what your age. But if you happen to overdo it, and need to recuperate and recharge, then head to their Relax Spa by Pevonia®. It’s a comprehensive facility with everything one could need to revive mind body and spirit so you can go vibe-hopping all over again the very next day.

www.breathlessresorts.com

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

56

Bali’s Best Kept Secret: The Mansion Hotel

by Olivia Balsinger

I

t’s no secret that Bali, Indonesia, the pinpoint of paradise in the Indian Ocean, has been very much discovered and developed. In fact, an estimated 5 million tourists flock to the island (which is only about 5,000 km) each year! But in a destination with such tourism saturation, one secret that remains yet undiscovered is The Mansion Hotel.

ter of Ubud, pulling up to the extravagant entrance of the hotel makes you forget civilization is nearby. Suddenly you are immersed in a tropical, lush green park estate where nature reigns.

The property is one of Bali’s rare gems hidden away in the outskirts of Ubud. Ubud, the island’s cultural center that is traditionally Balinese in its architecture, culinary innovations, and colorful bustle, feels entirely remote and removed from the crowded touristic beaches on the coasts.

Each of the expertly designed rooms and their views are a testament to the hotel’s relationship with the natural surroundings you will find yourself falling asleep with either views of the courtyard or within tropical gardens. Additionally, each spacious room houses artwork from local artisans, exemplifying the property’s relationship with the community. The resort boasts 150 rooms, from Deluxe to Penthouse Suites, each with immaculately designed interiors.

The Mansion prides itself in maintaining that authenticity and commitment to community, nestled in the artistic haven of Penestanana on the Sayan River. And though just a few minutes’ drive to the cen-

The Mansion Wellness Center is otherworldly and differentiates from the majority of surrounding “massage parlors” nearby because of its diverse menu and range of services - from yoga instructors to cosmetic

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

dentists to even dance therapists! In addition to a wide variety of holistic massages and treatments, the spa also features a healing pool, with water filtered by crystal blue structure units which enhance and energize.

A getaway to The Mansion would be suitable for a range of travelers - from those who prefer to lounge in the hot tub and rejuvenate, to those who wish to elevate their health with an extensive wellness treatment, to even the active types who feel motivated to swim laps in the resort's many pools. No matter your traveling style, if you’re interested in escaping Bali’s crowds and relaxing in paradise, The Mansion is the Indonesian hotel of choice. www.themansionbali.com

57

Vancouver Island Favourite: Oak Bay Beach Hotel

The Instagrammable Hotel Zed

Article by Ilona Kauremszky, photography Stephen Smith

Article by Ilona Kauremszky, photography Stephen Smith

T

I

his locally-owned boutique hotel espouses to showcase sixties and seventies stuff that once ruled households across America.

Pet friendly, motor cycle friendly, family friendly yet it brings in the business travel guests too with its meeting room.

The posh property on Vancouver Island overlooks one of Victoria's most prized secluded bays on Canada's dramatic Pacific Coast that has been attracting locals and those with a penchant for Old Brit Victoria charm ever since the historic hotel opened in 1927.

Here you'll step back in time at the three-story roadside motel and start to snap Insta-hits. There's the living room lobby, the ping pong table, the typewriters, the rotary phones, even LPs from yesteryear.

f there could be whale whisperers on site, why not head to Oak Bay Beach Hotel in Victoria to seek them.

Not unusual to see whales in summer months.

Nestled on the shores of the Pacific Ocean the Oak Bay Beach Hotel overlooks the Juan de Fuca Strait with ocean views of snow-capped Mount Baker seen in the distance. Only minutes from quaint boutique shops, cafes, and galleries of Oak Bay Village, a charming nook that dates back to Victoriana days, this hotel is a worthy legacy to its renowned predecessor.

The original Oak Bay Beach Hotel underwent a few reincarnations with a major $52CDNmillion revamp that saw each brick, beam and leaded window labeled and stored during a 6 year refurbishment that restored and expanded the hotel's footprint to what you see today.

These days wellness seekers arrive to soak in the scenery and if you're super lucky you just might catch views of whales slapping their back fins. Failing that the outdoor pool's stylized mosaic tile depicts a ring of Orcas embedded on the pool floor.

www.oakbaybeachhotel.com

No wonder this local hotel gem in Victoria, B.C. has been deemed one of the world's most Instagrammable hotels. There's a backdrop ready to be snapped.

Hotel Zed is for folks who don't take themselves too seriously and want to kick back and have fun. It's the hotel where play and hip go together like Fred and Ginger.

The play happens at Hotel Zed's “ground zero” in a stand alone building. Staff greet and do the check in here but you may not want to get to your room so fast. The reception overlooks the living room lobby lounge laden in kitsch and funky décor.

Guests can channel a Jack Kerouac stoop, shoulders hunched over a typewriter typing a letter back home. Pluck a record from the vinyl heap and throw on a tune, maybe from the seventies disco days. Crash on a couch and play a board game in the lobby or people watch as guests arrive with skateboards or bike helmets. The property offers free bike and skateboard rentals.

The rooms have their own splashy character. Find an industrial era desk from the Mad Men days. Use the rotary phone to hear the incessant buzz it makes before you dial. Can't figure out how to dial out? There's a step-by-step rotary phone manual.

Victoria might be known for its Britishness – the love of the stiff upper lip, protocol and all – but this location is spinning a new Victoria-vibe with its edginess that's filling a new hotel space missing before.

www.hotelzed.com Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

60

Aruba - Four Stylish Ways to Stay

Secret Romantic Escape - Aruba Ocean Villas

Upscale Elegant - The Ritz-Carlton Aruba

by Susan Canpbell

by Susan Canpbell

T

he absolute ultimate in adult-only romance is secreted away in Savaneta on the island’s southeast coast. So well hidden, you wouldn’t even know it’s there unless someone tells you where the gate is! But that’s the idea. This intimate boutique resort was designed as a surprising hidden Eden for those seeking privacy and an incredibly special stay. Choose from a collection of South Pacific style overwater bungalows, beach villas, and even a two-story treehouse ─ each with its own unique character and all personally decorated by the owner/artist herself. This is where creativity meets barefoot luxury and epic amenities abound like boat-style lounge decks with swings, hammocks, Bali daybeds, deep-soaking tubs, personal dipping pools, Jacuzzis and even pianos and crystal chandeliers to name just a few.

The tiki style beach bar is the nexus of social life, and the tables on the beach are perfect for romantic for toes-in-the-sand dining. There is also one private overwater palapa for dining (reservations mandatory) or you can have dinner served in your villa.

There’s also great snorkeling, and complimentary sea kayaks allow you to explore the surrounding mangroves. For couple’s massages, there’s a special spa palapa perch or you can have treatments right in your room. Extremely attentive and personal service is the hallmark of this enchanting little hideaway, so whatever your heart desires to make your retreat extra special, they will do their absolute best to make it happen.

T

he glamourous grandeur that awaits within isn’t readily apparent at first glance at the exterior of this massive mustard-coloured complex on Palm Beach, but you know when the Ritz-Carlton name is on it, once inside, it won’t disappoint.

And it doesn’t. Your first steps into the gleaming marble lobby will signal you’ve truly arrived at an opulent class of stay. This is where a two-story glassed-in panoramic view of the island’s stunning aqua sea is your backdrop at the Divi Lobby Bar and where guests are invited to view incredible sunsets and receive complimentary samples of their signature drink to celebrate the day’s end. All 320 modern and stylishly appointed guestrooms and suites offer private balconies and ocean views, and on the 7th floor, Club Level guests enjoy their own private lounge and upgraded amenities. Luxury shopping, a glitzy 24/7 casino, a first-rate spa and fitness centre, and dining at a choice of themed restaurants offer pastimes, but most will spend their days by the two pools (one adult-only and one family friendly) and lounging on the sprawling beachfront where you can view the colorful kites dancing in the sky from the kiteboarders practicing next door. Though excellent personal service is typically a Ritz-Carlton trademark, of special note at this one is the beachfront servers who deliver your food and drink aboard Segways—so much fun to watch.

www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/caribbean/aruba www.arubaoceanvillas.com

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

61

Boho-Chic Beach House Style Stay Boardwalk Boutique Hotel

Elevated Family-Friendly Escape Divi Aruba Phoenix Beach Resort

by Susan Canpbell

W

hen twin sisters Kimberley and Stephanie Rooijakkers decided to convert a bare basics windsurfer’s hangout near Palm Beach into a chic little beach house style resort, they had no idea it would become the darling of alternative style off-radar stays on island and a Trip Advisor favourite for five years running. Located in a historic coconut plantation, with an inviting little pool surrounded by lush greenery, the entire property is dotted with colorful and creative extras personally envisioned by the owners themselves like their signature “Treasure Chest” ─ a box full of helpful tips in each room on how and where to enjoy the island’s best local pleasures.

The original complex had only 14 rooms, but they’ve since added an entirely new wing now bringing the casita count to 46. The new wing has its own multi-experience pool with an over-water hammock. and they now offer daily poolside bar service for Happy Hour, too. Each cottage style room or suite has its own cool and quirky character, some with personal dipping pools or outdoor showers, and every room has a full kitchen and BBQ. Their new Lobby Bar café will offer some food and beverage service, and though the hotel is not on the sea, it’s a short stroll across the street to their Boardwalk Beach palapa paradise strip in the sand right beside the RitzCarlton Aruba. You can also order food and drink at discounted costs from the Ritz, and have it delivered by those fun servers riding Segways.

www.boardwalkaruba.com

by Susan Canpbell

T

his towering phoenix rising above Palm Beach is part of Aruba Divi family, but unlike its sister resorts around Eagle Beach, it doesn’t offer an all-inclusive option. (Though you can include buffet breakfast.) It was designed to provide an elevated home-away-from-home style of cosmopolitan accommodation for folks who prefer to cook some of their own meals. All 240 rooms and suites have gorgeous, well-equipped modern kitchens with everything one could need to entertain (except the food,) and there are also community barbecues. Onsite laundry facilities is another convenient extra.

Choose from spacious studios and one-two-bedroom suites or go more upscale with a split-level penthouse, and all accommodations boast modern amenities and are decorated with cheery splashes of Caribbean colours. It’s great for families since they have a dedicated children’s pool, lots of activities, and the calm, kid-friendly surf is due to manmade breakwaters on their beach. In low season, children under 12 stay free (one per paying adult).

“Pure” is the theme for all the on-site food and beverage options ─ trendy purebeach has creative tapas and small bites, pureocean is their signature alfresco dining room, and puredeli offers great fare to-go including an ice cream bar. But as fabulous as this spot is for families, it’s not without its sultry side for couples. Many of the superior suites have with luxe whirlpool tubs with built-in neon lights, their special romance package includes private palapa seaside dining by torchlight, and the pureindulgence spa offers couple’s massage either inside or surfside.

www.diviresorts.com

Aruba - Four Stylish Ways to Stay Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

A South African Odyssey

by Olivia Balsinger perfection at The Shortmarket Club, an industrial 1920's "members-only" inspired space downtown, foodies find no shortage of delights either.

To Stay: A romantic escape from downtown is Cape View Clifton, a boutique hotel with seven suites all open to uninterrupted views of Cape Town’s iconic coastline. The rooms are bright, airy and spacious, nestled into the slopes of Lion’s Head Mountain and adjacent to Clifton Beach.

Cape View Clifton is ideal for couples or honeymooners desiring intimacy and privacy.

A family-friendly option nestled in Bantry Bay, the area between the bustling city and the idyllic Atlantic Coast, is The President Hotel. With 349 luxury rooms and child-friendly apartments with full-functioning kitchenettes, this hotel quickly feels like home. Better yet, the hotel has full-service restaurants and cafes, epitomizing convenience for the busy family.

The Vineyards: The words “wine” and “Stellenbosch,” the flourishing region east of Cape Town sprawling with vines, have been synonymous with one another since the first Dutch settlers arrived in the17th century. Though I was astonished by the vast stretches of vineyards, I soon realized that wine isn’t the only striking aspect of the area: it also boasts intriguing history, culture, natural beauty, and ample outdoor adventure opportunities, such as daylong hikes through the mountains.

To Stay:

S

outh Africa’s gorgeous beaches, craggy mountains, and lush bush make it a premier destination for those seeking to be more intimately immersed in nature while also treating themselves to a standard of elegance. The choice of destinations and accommodation is as varied as South Africa’s geography itself. Whether it's a brand new attraction, a hidden gem that I have yet to discover, or even somewhere familiar and nostalgic, a trip to South Africa is always an odyssey.

The City: A visit to South Africa is incomplete without a stop in Cape Town, The Mother City. If you’ve never traveled to this gem cupping the edge of the continent, my first recommendation is snapping a picture on top of Table Mountain after a leisurely gondola ride, gaining perspective of the city’s intricate layout. A hive for both local and international chefs, Cape Town offers a wide array of dining options. From sundowners overlooking Camps Bay beach at the trendy Surfshack diner to a filet cooked to

A leisurely day trip to wine country is complete once spending a night at Santé Wellness Retreat and Spa, a Spanish Colonial-style building flanked by the beautiful Drakenstein mountains. With a complete spa treatment menu, a diversity of healthy eating options, and 360-degree views of verdant nature, relaxation, and rejuvenation are paramount at

Cape View Clifton

63

The President Hotel

The Fancourt Hotel

The Outpost Lodge

Santé. The property would be the perfect itinerary addition for a couple craving seclusion or individuals hoping to kick start a healthy routine.

Golf lovers will find paradise at The Fancourt — the property’s three golf courses have consistently ranked as top in the country. The hotel is family-friendly—while children can splash in the pools or rent bikes, adults may relax in the harmonious Roman Bath and spa.

al campfire dinner), an infinity pool sitting on the edge of the bush, and guided walks led by rangers throughout the dramatic landscape, Becks would be the optimal safari choice for families with older children (12 and up) or couples.

If you crave a touch of safari experience while traversing the Garden Route, then the allinclusive Inzolo Lodge, a getaway just north of Port Elizabeth, is the choice. The wild game roam freely through the unique mountainous landscape here. This hidden pinpoint of paradise caters to upscale and sophisticated clientele, with only four chalets and elegant décor.

Hidden in the northwestern corner of South Africa, delicately touching Mozambique and Zimbabwe, The Outpost Lodge, provides a unique safari experience where nature reigns.

This northern sector of Kruger National Park is known as the Eden of Kruger and home to 80% of the park’s biodiversity. The lodge provides plentiful opportunity to be immersed in this unique landscape, including bush walks, game drives, and 180-degree views from rooms. The Outpost is easily accessible by flight with a transfer and is the ideal lodge for an adventurer looking for a more remote, wild area to explore.

The Nature: After a few days exploring Cape Town, I began to get antsy to see what the rest of the country has to offer. Luckily, South Africa’s Garden Route, extending from Cape Town to the Eastern Cape, is the ultimate road trip.

Along the verdurous coast, you can swim in the Indian Ocean or whale watch in the bay.

You can try bungee from the world’s tallest bungee or sip a white wine from the boutique Kay & Monty Vineyards. The Garden Route winds an enchanting spell along South Africa’s coasts, and the drive’s nickname pays homage to its intricate and stunning ecological diversity.

To Stay: I recommend settling into The Old Rectory, the boutique beach hotel located in Plettenberg Bay, South Africa’s surfer and seaside paradise. Dating back to 1777, this property dually cherishes its history by maintaining is charm and heritage while adapting to the present with seamless renovations. This family-friendly hotel is located just meters away from top beaches and restaurants oozing with the smell of freshly caught fish.

If you’re looking for the ultimate leisure escape amidst a hectic itinerary, The Fancourt Hotel, in the colonial town of George, is the answer. The resort breathes nature, located on 613 hectares of Garden Route countryside, sitting in the folds of the Outeniqua Mountains.

The Old Rectory

The Bush: No trip to South Africa is complete without experiencing the most remote areas in the bush, waking up with the sun to the sounds of mating impalas and snorting warthogs, falling asleep each evening under the stars, the grass stirring as the hungry lioness hunts for her dinner under the light of the moon.

Hoedspruit Airport is about a one-hour flight from the country’s capital, Johannesburg, and is the gateway to the country’s wildlife heartland.

To Stay: Becks Safari Lodge, situated on the 9,000hectare Karongwe Private Game Reserve in the Limpopo Province, offers guests intimacy in the heart of the African bush. The lodge is easily accessible, about an hour’s drive away from the Hoedspruit Airport. There are ten luxury safari units offering views of either the Makhutswi River or a popular watering hole where I spotted a warthog from the intimacy of my own porch! With its bomas (a tradition-

Becks Safari Lodge

The sophisticated and secluded Dulini Lodge is the optimal choice for a discerning traveler, just two hours from Hoedspruit airport in Sabi Sands. The main lodge, showcasing traditional African artwork, is a welcome place of luxury, where human connection and conversation are paramount. Dulini Lodge would be the ideal choice for honeymooning couples, with intimacy in six thatched suites, each with their private plunge pools and privacy.

From its jagged, unspoiled coastline to its bustling metropolitan areas, from its rugged, untamed bush to some of the world’s most condensed and intense floral biodiversity on the Garden Route, one thing is for sure: South Africa encompasses it all.

www.southafrica.net

Dulini Lodge Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

Sichuan Cuisine Travelers Know They Have reached China Af ter They Indulge in the L ocal Delicacies

by Habeeb Salloum, M.S.M.

65

The Sichuan kitchen, one of the world’s great kitchens and one of the most emphatically flavoured cuisines in all of China, was for centuries well hidden to the outside world. However in China it has always been legendary for its sophistication, richness and diversity, boasting a variety of at least 5,000 different dishes.

Strangely, chilli pepper has had a great hand in making the Sichuan Cuisine a much sought after food. It is believed that the red pepper is so popular in this part of China because Sichuan has a humid climate that encourages people to eat strongly spiced foods, hence helping to reduce internal dampness.

S

ichuan food, also known in the West as the Szechuan Cuisine, is one of the most famous of China’s regional culinary arts. Emphasizing the use of chilli, it is renowned for its pungent and spicy flavours. Sichuan cooks enhance their kitchen further by the use of chilli pepper oil, Sichuan peppercorn, sesame seeds, garlic, ginger, as well as fermented soybeans and vegetables, adding a myriad of tastes to their dishes. It is said that one who has not enjoyed Sichuan food has never reached China.

Located along the Yangtze, Sichuan, isolated by mountains has developed a regional identity. A land of beautiful lakes, hot springs, deep ravines, limestone caves and waterfalls, it is known in China as ‘the land of plenty’. Sichuan is very fertile and the land produces abundant agricultural crops and a profusion of strong herbs and herb-like spices. As well, its cuisine is the spicy hottest in China. This has given the inhabitants the reputation for being a bit spicy - local women are known as la mei zi, ‘spice girls’.

However red peppers were not native to Sichuan. They were introduced to China in the 17th century from the Americas. How these peppers reached Sichuan, a landlocked region in China, is not clear but it is believed they were introduced from India when Chinese merchants met Portuguese and Spanish traders along the historically renowned Silk Route.

However, this does not mean that the Sichuan housewife had no way of producing ‘the hot’ before the discovery of the Americas. Even before the introduction of the chilli, through the centuries, the people of Sichuan had developed what is called: the Sichuan peppercorn, also known as pepper flower, Chinese pepper and fagara.

Not a pepper at all, it is a reddish-brown fruit produced by the prickly ash tree and locally known as huajiao. It gives zest to any dish in which it is used without overpowering the natural taste of the food. A little different then the chilli introduced from the Americas, this pepper gives certain numbness to the mouth, which imbues a unique taste.

boiling to roasting, simmering, steaming and stewing. However, a complete list would include more than twenty distinct techniques.

Among the most important spicy dishes, renowned in the region are: hot pot, Sichuan style; Kung Pao chicken fried with peanuts; spicy crab; smoked duck; mapo tofu; Sichuan pepper beef; and twice cooked pork - pork is first boiled then stirfried. Beef is, to some degree, more common in Sichuan cooking than in the other sister Chinese cuisines. Stir-fried beef is often cooked until crisp and tender, while steamed beef is, at times, coated with rice flour to produce rich gravy.

If novices wish to experiment in preparing the hot dishes of Sichuan, they will come to appreciate the notable characteristics of Sichuan cooking and its dazzling variety of flavours.

www.tourismchina.org

With the many food condiments used in the Sichuan kitchen that has been evolving for at least a thousand years, it is no wonder this fine cuisine has become so important in the world of hot culinary dishes. Colour, flavour, nutrition, shape and smell are carefully balanced to make the dishes not only look pleasant and appealing but also nutritious.

Yet, even though hot mouth-burning food is what comes to mind when Sichuan dishes are mentioned, at least one-third of the Sichuan cuisine is barely spiced or not spiced at all. The balancing of taste, no doubt, also contributes to the fame of this important part of the Chinese cuisine.

Sichuan cooks employ numerous cooking methods – from braising, stir-frying and Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

66

Mexico’s Magical Yucatan State Article and photography by Steve Gillick

The next day we met Ivan, our guide for a walking tour of Hacienda history. With an

endearing, animated style, Ivan explained that the name of the property ‘Sotuta de Peón’, derived from the Mayan expression ‘So To Teh HA!’ (and we all jumped back as Ivan yelled out the word “HA”). “’HA’ means water, so the expression translates as ‘water that circulates’, and you must emphasize the ‘HA’ with a strong voice’’. Ivan explained that ‘water’ referred to the eight inter-connected cenotes on the property. Cenotes are one of the hallmarks of the Yucatan area and denote surface pools connected to a subterranean water source that is usually exposed when a limestone structure, for example, a cave, collapses. The Yucatan boasts 3000 of Mexico’s 6000 cenotes and as Ivan explained, “each one is different”.

The fascinating Hacienda tour covered the large plantation home of Augusto Peón, the patriarch of the family, and included an interactive walk through the rope production process. The tour ended when a wagon, drawn by a horse this time, took us to one of the cenotes for photos, a swim and a visit to the outdoor bar for a taste of a refreshing, lemony Margarita made with Mezcal, an agave-based liquor, somewhat similar to Tequila.

The Hacienda visit was yet another confirmation of the unique nature of the Yucatan and the amazing finds that travelers can discover.

Still, many people tend to confuse Yucatan State with the Yucatan Peninsula that encompasses the three States of Yucatan, Quintana

WT Library Photo

W

hen we arrived at the Sotuta de Peón, a Hacienda Hotel located about one hour south of the Yucatan State capital city of Merida, the porter immediately went off to a nearby field of sisal plants and palm trees. There, he bridled the sole donkey who was quietly enjoying the shade, and hitched him to a wagon that would carry us and our luggage to our assigned bungalows. The wagon’s railroad wheels followed the tracks that ran through the property; an homage to the transportation used in the mid-19th century when sisal represented the chief economic resource and was known as ‘the green god of the Yucatan’.

square with the impressive Church of San Servacio, dating to 1706, and the Municipal Palace where murals relate how Valladolid earned the nickname “The Heroic City”.

WT Library Photo

One of the main attractions a bit further afield is the 16th century Convento de San Bernardino de Siena. Here visitors can pose with the colorful Valladolid tourist sign amidst bright red “Flamboyant” trees. A second popular attraction is the Cenote Zaci, the cenote of the White Sparrow Hawk, complete with a small waterfall, stalactites and stairs that take you to the pool of blue-green water.

Roo (including Cancun, Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Playa del Carmen, Xcaret, etc.) and Compeche (including the walled city of Compeche and the jungle city of Calakmul, etc). Chichen Itza, the Mayan complex located in Yucatan State is often assumed to be the only attraction of value in the State, so it’s time to set the record straight!

Izamal is another designated Magical Town.

It’s unofficially known as the Yellow City based on the color of many historic buildings in the downtown core, and when you enter that area, the common reaction is “Oh my goodness, I had no idea”. The town is stunning.

The most visited attraction is the Franciscan Convent of San Antonio de Padua, which was completed in 1549 and built from, and over, Ppapp-Hol-Chac, a major Mayan temple.

From the arcades of the convent, you can see hills where other Mayan temples were located, as well as Kinich Kakmo, the 35 meter (115 feet) temple/pyramid dedicated to the goddess of the sun and fertility. Many visitors hire a horse (wearing a flowered hat) and buggy to tour the city, but it is very walkable with gorgeous colonial houses, shops, restaurants and those brilliant red Flamboyant trees everywhere.

From Cancan Airport, our van drove twohours on the well-maintained highway to Valladolid, one of Mexico’s 122 Magical Towns. A committee of the Secretariat of Tourism designates ‘magical experiences’ based on a number of criteria that include natural beauty, cultural richness, traditions, crafts, food, festivals, exceptional hospitality, and more.

After a fairly easy climb to see the panoramic town views from the top of the pyramid, we headed to Restaurant Zamna. As the majority of Izamal’s population of 15,000 have Mayan-Mixtes roots, this is a great city for foodies. We sipped our Chaya cocktail, made with a spinach-like local vegetable as the savoury dishes arrived: Salbute (puffed deep fried tortilla with pulled turkey, okra, tomato and onion), Panucho (a refried tortilla stuffed with black beans, meat and vegetables) and Longaniza (smoked pork sausage with ashiote). So good!

We stayed at the Hostería del Marqués, a converted 17th century home filled with beautiful antiques. Morning coffee by the small outdoor pool was followed by breakfast in the restaurant that surrounds a peaceful treed courtyard. The hotel is only a short walk to the town

After an overnight stay and tour of Hacienda Sotuta de Peón, we continued to the city of Merida. Our hotel, Casa del Balam, was only a few blocks from Plaza Mayor, which on a Sunday afternoon, was an eyeful of colour, with crowds strolling the streets and shops,

visiting the food and souvenir vendors, 67 and gazing at the architectural wonders that surround the Plaza. This includes the amazing 1540 façade of Montejo’s House, the Merida Cathedral (completed in 1598, making it the oldest mainland Cathedral in the Americas), the Governor’s Palace (filled with historical paintings and murals), and the city hall crowned by a Moorish-inspired blue and gold cupola.

That evening we joined Miguel Andres Hernandez, the Vice Minister of Tourism for the State of Yucatan for a celebration of Mexican flavours at Apoala, one of the top restaurants in Parque de Santa Lucia. As we sampled corn empanadas with black mole, and octopus ceviche with scallops, Hernandez noted that Yucatan State is one of the safest places in Mexico, ‘We don’t even have aggressive merchants here!” He noted that many Yucatecos (people of the Yucatan) love to engage visitors with stories about their family history, something that added to the total Yucatan travel experience of nature, beaches, forests, music, cenotes, culture and gastronomy. He stated that “The quality of the travel experience is very high in the Yucatan and besides, we have great weather”.

The next afternoon we came face-to face with nature on our boat trip through the Celestún Biosphere Reserve. We encountered a field of Pink Flamingoes, trees full of nesting Magnificent Frigate birds and Cormorants, and a thrilling ride through the mangroves.

The final night of our trip was spent at the Mayaland Hotel, directly connected by a short walking path to the Mayan complex of Chichen Itza. At 5:00 am, with the help of our guide’s super-bright flashlight, we toured the ancient Mayan complex and then, with less than a dozen people present, watched the sunrise by the Temple of Kukulcan. The experience was memorable.

Yucatan State is one of those magical places, complete with Magical Towns, where travellers can enjoy a fulfilling interaction with the destination. The take-away is sheer enjoyment along with that sometimes-illusive travel feeling of “Wow”.

www.yucatan.travel

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

68

Extraordinary Extremadura Article and photography by Michael Morcos

S

o much Spain but never enough time! So much to see and do from coast to coast that it takes a lifetime to really explore the many regions and local specialties. Having traveled to three corners of this amazing country, it was time to find the best things to see and do in south west region of Spain and travel to extraordinary Extremadura.

amaze, even after multiple visits. There are my favourite haunts and always a new area or street to discover. From Madrid we would drive to northern Extremadura on a city and country trip visiting charming little villages, tranquil picturesque countryside and historic towns.

Our trip would be bookended by beautiful Madrid. This worldly city never ceases to

Our first stop would be the village of Robledillo de Gata, population, not sure, it

Off and running

depends on who’s in town but could be anywhere from 50 in the winter to a few hundred on a summer weekend when people flock here for a vacation. This is why this small village has three taverns. The one we visited was old, rustic and perfect for a warm coffee or cold refreshment. The village itself can be crossed in minutes, but takes much longer as it is built upon many hills. Visitors will be enamored by the charming old buildings that have stood the test of time.

oils I would say without hesitation, this is the best I have ever tasted. It is no wonder As Pontis has won awards to be the best tasting olive oil in Spain and fourth best in the world. I bought four bottles as gifts and with that I had finished my gift list.

69

Paprika anyone?

This is a new one for me. I finally found out what is in this popular spice. Having used and tasted it for years, the mystery is solved.

Simply put, it is ground peppers but that is too easy. We would learn the path of these red fruits form field to packaged cans.

In this region of La Vera, paprika is king and not just that, the most popular here is the smoked paprika. Starting in the fields, it is handpicked and sent to be smoked in a specially built smoke house. Some hours later the dried peppers are bagged and sent for grinding and packaging. This is where we saw the final spice at Las Hermanas factory. It was a joy to meet Miguel, the senior in the family run operation and which is now being overseen by his two daughters and thus the brand name Las Hermanas (the sisters). Thought I had completed my gift shopping, but I got some more goodies to bring home.

Olive Time

November is the time of year Olives ripen and one of the busiest periods for the producers. With much luck and perfect timing, we would visit the As Pontis olive mill. This company acts as the central place for the growers to bring their produce and as a sort of cooperative the As Pontis bottles olives, oil by-products and Olive oil.

After a day of travel and exploring we would welcome the chance to see the whole olive process in front of our eyes. Arriving even late in the night, farmers would bring in a days’ worth of collections and within no time these beauties would be processed and like magic, some of the best olive oil in the world. After a crash course on how to truly taste the difference between different

and the pillory. There are also some magnificent medieval bridges of Roman design, and it is astounding to think how long they have been around and are in much better condition than some modern roadways.

Paprika festival

What more can be said about Extremadura, their love of Paprika and a paprika festival.

Yes, its true there really is a festival for this spice. The town of Plasencia is the host and we were the guests to the second annual event and on the first minute of the first day we munched down some large wonderfully juicy paprika sausages right in the middle of the town square. Needless to say, all restaurant menus have paprika dishes and we freely indulged!

Parador Trifecta

Jamón Ibérico rules

It would be a shame visiting Spain without spending at least one night in one of these iconic hotels. The Paradores de Espana is a government owned and run chain of hotels.

Founded in 1928, they were set up so that travelers could have a place to stay just about anywhere along a route through Spain. Most of the buildings have historic significance and are usually in castles and monasteries and all have been kept clean, renovated and include the most modern amenities. On our trip we would stay at no less than three paradores and each one was a gem including: Parador de Jarandilla, Parador de Plasencia and the Parador de Mérida.

I am a true lover of Spanish Ham, but this is a rude way of calling a historic culinary work of art. The proper labeling should be Jamon Iberico. If anything, it sounds more romantic when describing pig parts.

A visit to Jarandilla is a lesson in civil architecture, including remarkable buildings such as the house of Don Luis de Quijada

The essence of it all, cured pig legs are common to France, Italy and Spain. All have their curing methods, and all are delicious. The difference is how the Spanish arrive at their mouthwatering version. On this day, it would be another great lesson that shows the process from farm to table.

This, by the way, takes nine years from the birth of the piglet to aging and them to market and shows a much greater application to this beautiful meat.

see following page

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20

70

We would start our day at the Extrem Puro Extremadura pig farm in the picturesque region of Dehesa. There we would see the specific sort of pigs used for the Jamon.

The pigs are well treated and feed off the land and in the latter months before going to slaughter they consume mostly acorns, which gives a great taste to the meat. From the farm we head to the processing plant, there the carcasses are brought back from an outside sourced slaughterhouse where they are then salted and air dried for months until perfection. The last part of our tour would bring us for a tasting and a carving class where a highly trained cutter slices very thin pieces of the amazing tasting Jamon. Add other cured meats like sausages paired with marvelous local red wine and we are unmistakably having a Spanish experience that can only be had on the spot and it was good!

Cáceres

At first glance I could see why Caceres was voted one of the best two medieval towns in Europe. I could also see why one of the final episodes of ‘Game of Thrones’ had been filmed here. This all stone walled fortress was a gem of our tour. I instantly fell in love with the many well-kept and historic buildings. So amazing was the setting on top of a hill that many concurring armies made this their own and added to its look as far back as the romans and followed by many other civilizations. Now a UNESCO World Heritage City, I could easily walk for hours enjoying the architecture and feeling the many years of energy it holds.

The Convent of San Benito de Alcántara

The stunning architectural construction of this building features three apses with a large coat of arms. Opposite a three-story loggia with Renaissance arches, there is an added semicircular auditorium where the classical theatre festival of Alcantara is held here in the summer. The cloister itself is in a Gothic-style with two floors. It was built atop what was a Moorish fortress.

Merry Merida

A quiet and charming little city but this was not always so as it was a major hub for the Romans. Here we would visit the archeological Roman site with an amazing and still functional roman theater. As well visit one of the best roman museums outside of Italy, see Roman bridge number three and finally work for our meal as we would take a fun cooking class at the Espezia cooking school preparing local seasonal dishes.

Incredible Influence

All over the country, the Roman influence can be seen and visited. In Marida, the one-time capital of Lusitania (Spain and Portugal), travelers can find some of the finest Roman ruins in the whole of Spain and possibly the world. A special one for me is the Roman theatre where open air festivals are held, especially in the summer.

The Amphitheatre, the Temple of Diana or the Roman Bridge are other amazing and photo-friendly locations. Merida is also now the administrative capital of the region of Extremadura and was awarded the title of World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Roman Bridge number two

The roman bridge in Jarandilla was just a rehearsal for this its bigger, longer and higher brother. This was such a humongous construction that I was in disbelief that the Romans actually had the abilities to create such an incredible work of engineering. It is the highest standing Roman bridge anywhere and an amazing photo op.

Our last moments in Merida were spent eating and drinking at the Espezia kitchen.

All good things come to an end I thought.

How would I describe this region of Spain in just one word? Would it be just fantastic?

Great? Wonderful? Maybe to all these but for all we did, saw and experienced I would best put it as extraordinary Extremadura! It really is! www.spain.info

Canadian World Traveller Winter 2019-20