Vancouver Magazine June 2024

BEST SLEEP – EVER!

Triple-action, tri-layer tablets for immediate and gradual release

• With

• Contains sleep botanicals passionflower, and hops

5-HTP and calming L-theanine : valerian,

• Promotes falling asleep quickly and improves sleep quality

CONNECT TO AMAZING FLAVOR

with delicious choices prepared by our flying chefs

PERSONAL SPACE

Chambar owner Karri Green-Schuermans is serving up artsy serenity in her North Van home.

HOT TAKE

For your consideration: the best swimwear suitable for Vancouver summers.

THE DISRUPTOR

Vegan sushi is on a roll thanks to Vancouver’s Konscious Foods.

SO FUN CITY

Music Waste is the rebellious festival we all need right now. ON THE RISE

Long-lasting leather is Mameyo Goods’ bag.

Simply the Best

The 35th Restaurant Awards (page 29) honour Vancouver’s top restaurants and the foodies who power the industry.

Features Taste

Chefs Michel Jacob and Rob Feenie have lots to talk about.

B.C. wines you should buy now and drink later.

SECRET

falafel recipe from the iconic Cactus.

35TH RESTAURANT AWARDS

It’s bigger. It’s better. It shouldn’t be read on an empty stomach. Our 2024 Restaurant Awards cover more than 70 categories and celebrate hundreds of incredible local restaurants, chefs, bartenders, sommeliers, servers and more. Let’s eat.

ceo and group publisher Ryan Benn

group vp , publishing and operations Nina Wagner

editorial

editorial director Anicka Quin

editors - in - chief Stacey McLachlan ( Vancouver ), Nathan Caddell ( BCBusiness )

managing editor Alyssa Hirose

assistant editors Kerri Donaldson, Rushmila Rahman

wine and spirits editor Neal McLennan

contributing editors Frances Bula, Melissa Edwards, Amanda Ross

editorial intern Gates Annai email mail@vanmag.com

design

creative director Jenny Reed

art directors Stesha Ho ( Vancouver ), Edwin Pabellon ( BCBusiness )

advisory council

Angus An, chef/owner, Maenam restaurant; Victoria Emslie, senior manager corporate relations, Nicola Wealth; Khelsilem, council chairperson, Skwxwú7mesh Úxwumixw; Gary Pooni, president, Pooni Group; Jen Riley, VP brand and communications, Bosa Properties; Joseph Thompson, co-founder and COO, Kits Eyewear; Greg Zayadi, president, Rennie Group

sales representation

vp of sales Anna Lee

senior media specialists Brianne Harper, Mira Hershcovitch, Amy LaJambe, Sheri Stubel

sales coordinator Rebecca Scutt email sales@canadawide.com

u . s . sales specialist Hayes Media Sales tel 602-432-4868 email lesley@hayesmediasales.com

production / administration

group vp , education and administration Jane Griffiths

group director of operations Devin Steinberg

director of circulation Tracy McRitchie

manager , hr and administration Ava Pashmchi

executive assistant to ceo Hannah Dewar

production manager / digital ad coordinator Kim McLane

production associate Natasha Jayawardana

production support technician Ina Bowerbank office administrator Celine Simpson

finance

group vp , finance Conroy Ing, CPA, CMA vp of finance Sonia Roxburgh, CPA, CGA accounting Terri Mason, Eileen Gajowski

address Suite 130, 4321 Still Creek Drive, Burnaby, B.C. V5C 6S7 tel 604-299-7311 fax 604-299-9188 web vanmag.com email sales@canadawide.com VANCOUVER MAGAZINE is published eight times a year by Canada Wide Media Limited Suite 130, 4321 Still Creek Dr., Burnaby, B.C.

HOME IS WHERE THE YACHT IS

When you live at Baja’s first luxury marina, your yacht is on the doorstep and the Marina Village is steps away: shops, Nancy Silverton’s Mozza, the Chiki Club and other delights are your neighbors. Best of all, you’ll come home to where your heart is—your very own perch on the water at Four Seasons Residences or Casa Blake.

Eat Your Heart Out

I’m telling you this in confidence, because we’re such good friends: this issue of the Restaurant Awards got us into trouble.

When we set off to make the awards bigger and better this year, everyone was on board, from our insatiable Restaurant Awards judges to our publishing company’s head honchos. We got to work, expanding the categories (with a Best Casual and Best Upscale award for Chinese restaurants) and bringing back old favourites (the return of Best Vietnamese!). We set up the Readers’ Choice Awards for the first time since the ’90s. We turned a single Lifetime Achievement Award into a Hall of Fame list, and got rowdy debating a handful of special Editors’ Picks, too. All told, we wound up with 75 distinct awards for our 35th annual celebration of Vancouver’s restaurant scene—which meant we had more than 280 restaurants on our finalist list.

Each of these restaurants are absolutely deserving of being on that delicious, delicious shortlist. But our poor events department. They were already in the thick of planning our big Restaurant Awards ceremony and party when we had to sheepishly admit that we’d created the biggest nominee guest list in Restaurant Awards history. Whooooops.

In our defence: is it our fault that Vancouver’s culinary community is just that amazing? Blame the chefs who are taking inspiration from local ingredients to bring fresh, imaginative, deeply personal dishes to the table! Blame the warm and casual serving staff who make a night out feel like a worthwhile indulgence! Blame the bartenders and somms pouring us inventive cocktails and unforgettable B.C. wines! Blame the pastry wizards who convince us to stick around for just one more course!

And while I’m handing out accusations, you, the savvy readers of Vancouver magazine, can take on a little of the blame, too. You’re the ones who nominated hundreds of worthy local restaurants for our Readers’ Choice segment! Thanks a lot for the thoughtful observations and passionate advocacy that made it nearly impossible to whittle the finalist list down!

Unsurprisingly, everything worked out just fine. Our incredible events crew rallied, of course (thanks and sorry, Jane and Hannah), and swiftly pulled together a great new venue with room for everyone to raise a glass with one another. The show—and, importantly, the party—would go on. It was great news, because creating this issue always reminds me just how much we have to celebrate. Not just our next-level, world-class dining scene, but also the passionate team here that makes this whole issue possible. Managing editor Alyssa Hirose deserves a special shout-out for stickhandling this beast of an awards program. She’s leaving the magazine soon to pursue some passion projects (wow, it’s hard to type when you’re crying!), but I know we’ll be in each other’s lives and keep sharing amazing meals together for years to come. In this smorgasbord of a city, how could we not?

STACEY McLACHLAN editor - in - chief

Coming Up Next Issue

Get Outside!

The sun has made its triumphant return, which means it’s time to get out there. We’re sharing the best bike routes, secret swimming holes and hidden-gem hikes to make the most of your summer. (Don’t forget the sunscreen.)

Some

On the Web

Wine Dupes for a Cause Wine columnist Neal McLennan implores us to swap in some Okanagan bottles for our international faves, and shares his list of sensational subs. Drink local, drink often.

FOLLOW

Food Truck Fever

of the city’s best restaurants can be found on four wheels. We’re scoping out a few all-star food truck options for the grab-and-go gourmand.

Progressive Readers for Enhanced Vision

CULTURE

Shadow Play

The light fixture is from Lightform, laser cut and bent from a single piece of wood. “I like the technical side of it, that it’s been sliced and bent, but I also like that it lets the light through,” says GreenSchuermans. The piece creates interesting shadows on the walls that change throughout the day.

Welcome Home

In the personal kitchen of Chambar owner Karri Green-Schuermans.

Over the past 20 years, the acclaimed, Belgian(ish) downtown restaurant Chambar has hosted tens of thousands of guests. But owner Karri Green-Schuermans doesn’t end her hospitality there. “My house is a revolving door of great people coming through Vancouver,” she grins. “It’s a joke amongst friends—Karri's hotel.”

by Stacey McLachlan photography by Tanya Goehring

Her home in North Vancouver, where she lives with her three kids, was designed as a live/work space but is constantly used for hosting friends—“I love when people feel comfortable enough to slouch on the couch, at home and relaxed,” she says—but in many ways, it’s designed by friends, too. All around the sun-filled 1970s home, you’ll find pieces designed, made or gifted by Green-Schuermans’s creative circle: pottery, paintings, sculptures and plenty of just-right cooking spoons. Though, really, those pieces are just the finishing touches on a foundation Green-Schuermans built with intention. The house was designed by Barry Smith, a midcentury architect who worked for the great Arthur Erickson, and it carries some of the same spirit: glass and concrete, views of the natural world framed by oversized windows. But a building envelope repair two years ago revealed some structural damage, so Green-Schuermans found herself embarking on a surprise renovation.

Luckily, she had the skills to pull it off. Not just the thrifty-cool design sensibility she’s used to deck out her restaurants (fun fact: the roomdividing wall of windows at Chambar was sourced from Vancouver’s oldest church), but also a childhood spent watching and learning from her carpenter father. “I did the contracting here. I even did the CAD designs,” she says. Now, hardwarefree oak cabinets and drawers by McGregor Woodworks line the wall and grey-veined marble from Marble Art makes for a hardy countertop, all providing a serene setting for ceramic vessels or cutting boards from Provide.

Whether she’s designing a restaurant or her family’s home, Green-Schuermans is driven by one question: how do you want to feel in a space? For this host with the most, the answer is easy: “Welcome.”

A Tree Grows in North Van When GreenSchuermans was 19, she saw a fiddleleaf fig tree in someone’s house and it stuck with her. “I always wanted one, so when I walked in here and saw these ceilings, I immediately thought, ‘I could finally have my tree.’” She’s lived in the house for 11 years now, and the tree has doubled in height in that time.

Stir It Up

A dozen wooden spoons are contained in vessels made by friend Janaki Larsen—an accidental collection. “It’s one of those things where people see you have something and they just keep giving you more,” she says.

wall: an AI-generated image of a hole printed onto old computer programming paper.

Art Attack

The oversized green resin panel is by Vancouver artist (and friend) George Vergette. Another artistic friend, Todd Inouye, created the work on the back

Strike a Match

Above the stove, the markings on quartzite slabs are aligned to make a dramatic point. “I went to a marbler, and there were these two pieces that nobody wanted but I loved them,” GreenSchuermans says. There wasn’t enough material to span the whole wall, so she inset it into the drywall instead, cutting the studs and structurally reinforcing the wall. “It was a nightmare. This was load-bearing,” she recalls. “But worth it.”

Face Off

A mask by Bowen Island artist Joshua Van Dyke is made from old skateboards. Hanging next to it is a Maori mask by James Webstade from New Zealand, where Green-Schuermans grew up.

Table Manners The table was an anniversary present for Green-Schuermans’s ex-husband (and restaurant co-founder) Nico Schuermans. “We used it as the prototype for the tables at Chambar, which my father made,” she says.

Wax On The wooden pillar candle stands were originally on the tables at Dirty Apron (she co-founded the beloved Gastown cooking school, and Cafe Medina as well), but turned out to be a little too tall... so now they live here.

Life Story

Maori artist James Ormsby made a custom illustration on archival paper for GreenSchuermans, based on an hour-long conversation with her about her life in New Zealand.

“It’s basically a drawing of my childhood,” she says.

The Collector Green-Schuermans is an avid traveller (recent trips include Sri Lanka and Bhutan) and she likes to bring back artwork as a souvenir. This painting, for instance, by an unknown artist, is from Kerela, India.

Going For Green “Everything felt too fancy; I wanted something with a homemade quality,” GreenSchuermans says of the vertical, mottled-green ceramic backsplash tiles from Bullnose Tile and Stone. “I grew up in a hippie family so there’s something nostalgic about these for me.”

HOT TAKE

by Amanda Ross

FLOWER POWER

Made in Vancouver, the reversible Liz swimsuit by Nettle’s Tale is two in one—and the periwinkle and contrasting super bloom patterns are both vacationready. $159, nettlestale.com

Deep Dive

Our brief summer is finally here, and this season’s newest swimsuits are ready for it.

CLUTCH YOUR PEARLS

Crafted by Columbian female artisans, the Agua Bendita Durazno Pacifico one-piece in floral flatters with a square neckline and pearl-beaded shoulder straps. $595, holtrenfrew.com

ARC’TERYX

an easy-wearing short that goes from trail running to lake swimming in one quick-dry fell swoop. $60,

PRETTY IN PINK

Sea New York’s Core bikini marries the brand’s artful mix of modern and vintage in equal parts berry, smocking and ruching. $400, baccis vancouver.com

Arc’teryx, the homegrown technical and high-performance clothing-and-equipment fave, just opened a 5,231-squarefoot North Shore outpost highlighting Coast Salish design elements (sculptures from old growth red cedar, a carved house post) and a ReBird service centre for repairs. 825 Main St., West Vancouver | arcteryx.com

SHOULDER EXERCISE

Launched by two former Lululemon employees, Left on Friday’s chlorine- and salt-friendly swimwear is fade- and snagresistant, too. The Shoreline high-cut suit goes from beach to BBQ when paired with shorts. $200, ca.lefton friday.com

LINE DANCE

Fendi’s 2024 summer capsule collection swimsuit channels classic cabana beach stripes in their

Vancouver-based Londre, a purpose- and female-led swimwear small business, uses a minimum of six recycled plastic water bottles to make the Corset one-piece in classic matte black. $198, londrebodywear.ca

On a Roll

The veggie dog king is taking on the seafood industry, one (frozen!) tuna roll at a time.

by Stacey McLachlan

They’re not still making Canadian Heritage Minutes, but perhaps they should—because everyone in this country should know that we are the homeland of the veggie dog.

In 1983, an ambitious Yves Potvin left by bike from Montreal and arrived in Vancouver about 5,000 kilometres later with an idea for a meat-free hot dog. “It was the ’80s, this time of both Jane Fonda and Hungry Man dinners,” he says. “I was athletic, a chef, persistent, I wanted to get into food manufacturing. I thought, ‘What do I have to offer? What does the world need now?’” His pedalpowered musings led to the creation of Yves Veggie Cuisine, a company that introduced the world to the fresh veggie dog and changed the game for meat alternatives... and eventually sold for a reported $54.1 million.

Next, the entrepreneur came for Big Nugget with a new company called Gardein, specializing in faux chicken products made with a new extrusion technology. That sold for big bucks, too—a cool $175 million. You can’t deny it: the man knows how to fake it (meat-wise, that is) till he makes it.

“If you’re not the first, you have to be the best, or you have to be different,” he says of his successes. His hot dogs were the first and, by default, the best. Gardein’s nuggets weren’t a new idea, but they were done differently, and done better.

Roll with It

The faux fish in Konscious Foods’ frozen sushi rolls (founders Yves and Sylvia Potvin are pictured right) are a surprisingly good sub for the real thing, made with plant-based ingredients including a root vegetable called konjac.

Now, with Konscious Foods— his latest venture into the world of plant-based prepared food— he’s trying to hit all three of those metrics.

There are other plant-based seafood companies out there (Victoria’s Save Da Sea focuses on smoked “salmon” and “tuna” salad mixes) but Konscious has the first frozen sushi, onigiri and poke products on the market. And it’s an indisputably different way to serve poke or sushi in general. (“Thaw, plate and enjoy!” says the website.)

But they’re also really, convincingly tasty and textured; when competitors eventually enter the arena, it’s hard to see how Konscious’s plant-based rainbow

rolls won’t prove themselves to be the best, too.

When he first started his vegetarian empire, the audience was a small one. In the ’90s, only one percent of North American adults identified as vegetarian. Today, it’s five percent (another four percent label themselves as vegan). Between 2015 and 2022 alone, sales of meat alternatives doubled to reach $226 million, and plant-based products are set to become a $25-billion industry in Canada over the next decade. Was Yves Potvin on the cutting edge? Or did he create the paradigm shift by making plantbased protein accessible in a way it never had been before? “You’re the OG plant-based guy,” laughs Sylvia Potvin, Yves’s wife and business partner in Konscious. (The two own Vancouver’s Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts, too; Sylvia is also a judge of this magazine’s Restaurant Awards.)

Surprisingly, Yves isn’t strictly vegan or vegetarian himself. And nowhere on the packaging of any of his brands—past or present—are the products labelled as being for vegetarians

make it an easy option to choose. While the company’s product line features vegetable-centric items—like the Korean barbeque shiitake onigiri—it’s the imitation seafood that is the real game-changer here. The “snow crab” in the California roll is made from a root vegetable called konjac, and is a shockingly realistic substitute. The “tuna” in the tuna mango roll, meanwhile, is crafted from konjac, organic tomato and olive oil; the “salmon” in the poke bowl is actually konjac and carrot. (If the “kon” in “Konscious” doesn’t stand for konjac, maybe it should.)

only. “Diet for me is all about balance. Who says you have to be all or nothing?” he says. “If you like bacon, just be a vegetarian and eat bacon sometimes.”

Konscious is the Potvins’ attempt to take a bite out of the seafood industry, for reasons both opportunistic (salmon alone is a US$15.6-billion global business) and eco-minded.

“‘Conscious’ is a word I use a lot. Conscious is being aware. You don’t just wake up one morning and think, ‘Today I’m going to buy an electric car,’” says Yves. “We make a conscious decision that it’s better for the environment; we think, ‘I want to improve.’ Humans are the only animal who make a conscious decision to change our life for the better.” In the last 50 years, the number of overfished stocks has tripled, according to the World Wildlife Fund. If we all made that concious choice to swap our salmon poke bowl for a plant-based alternative a few times a week, maybe we could help lessen that load.

The offerings from Konscious will, the Potvins hope,

The company raised $26 million in venture capital funding last year and its products are already in 4,500 supermarkets and counting. But Konscious has a hurdle to overcome. “No one buys frozen sushi,” admits Yves. “We’re creating a whole new market.”

Slowly but surely, that market is developing. Konscious won a coveted “Best New Frozen Product” award at the global lifestyle food trade show Expo West in 2023, and the Potvins are quick to point out that the category does not just include vegetarian food. “That’s beating out ice cream! And chicken fingers, and frozen pizza. That gives us a lot of credibility,” Sylvia says.

They’re taking that cred to South by Southwest this year, an event typically occupied by tech startups and impossibly cool bands. “It’s the place where culture happens, and an exciting place to be,” says Yves. It’s also an opportunity to get their product in the hands of some tastemakers, and show them what’s possible—nothing fishy about that.

Time Well Wasted

What happens when musicians get fed up with festival gatekeeping? We get Music Waste.

by Kerri Donaldson

If live music in Vancouver is dead, nobody told the organizers of Music Waste. Over the past 30 years, the volunteer-run fest has platformed hundreds upon hundreds of local bands— and this June, they’re back to turn up the volume.

What started as a rebellious retort to a pay-to-play festival model has transformed over the years into a cherished community institution, all without losing its DIY spirit... or its penchant for turning parking lots into party central. (We all remember the Empanadas Ilegales show behind Kingsgate Mall in 2022, right?)

“Music Waste originally started as a one-night-only protest show against the industry-affiliated New Music West festival,” explains Natalie Corbo, a veteran member of the alternative festival’s organizing committee. A few bands were

frustrated over having to pay to apply to the festival only to be rejected, so they held their own show on the same night. “The next year they put out a call for submissions—with no entry fee!—and 80 bands applied. And it kind of just snowballed from there.”

Each summer offers a chance for the music community to come together and do what they do best: put on a show. Though performances span from solo folk to screamo, “everybody who comes in to do it does it purely out of the love in their hearts for the music scene in Vancouver,” says Nicole McDonal, Music Waste’s administrative coordinator.

From these defiant stick-itto-the-man beginnings, Music

Turn It Up

Waste has become a testament to what can happen when a festival chooses to march to the beat of its own drum—or moody synth chord, as the case may be. Three decades in, that same ethos remains the backbone of the little rascal music fest that could, with all profits going directly to the bands, thanks to an all-volunteer operation that works as a holacracy. “Nobody’s the leader. We all make these decisions together, 100 percent of the time,” says McDonal. It’s a festival of the people, by the people, for the people, and while that might not have been Abraham Lincoln’s intent when he uttered those words, we think it’s fair to say he’d dig Music Waste—there’s something for everyone, after all,

from electronica acts to tween girl bands.

But what’s a good festival story without its share of trials and tribulations? “Some of the biggest challenges in the 1990s and now still in 2024 have been the lack of venues,” says McDonal. Vancouver’s real estate crunch may be a hurdle, but Music Waste’s response has been a masterclass in creative problem-solving, with shows appearing at locations like that aforementioned Kingsgate Mall parking lot—or at an autobody shop, or “a pretty rickety house in Mount Pleasant.”

Over the years, the festival has been a launching pad for some serious indie talent. “It’s not uncommon for bands to play their first show at Music Waste,” Corbo says. Acts like psych-rock star Black Mountain, homegrown slacker-rock poster child Mac DeMarco and dude duo Japandroids graced its makeshift stages before making it big.

This year, another 70-plus bands and musicians will prove live music is alive and well in Vancouver over the course of four very loud days. Is Vancouver’s next big thing among them? Don’t waste your opportunity to find out.

THE DEETS

MUSIC WASTE 2024 Runs June 6 to 9 at venues around the city. Tickets and passes at musicwaste.ca

Clockwise from top left: Empanadas Ilegales at Kingsgate Mall (2022), Riun Garner at Green Auto (2023) and Khillah Khills, also at Green Auto (2023).

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CULTURE

Fun in the Sun

Summer’s here and so are your summer plans. by

ALE AS OLD AS TIME: BREWERY AND THE BEAST

WHEN June 2

WHERE Concord Pacific Place COST From $174

If you’re into tailgating, same energy—except it’s over 55 of Vancouver’s top chefs grilling up a storm, not your buddy Dave who insists those charred patties are just “well-done.”

FORTNIGHT: TWELFTH NIGHT

WHEN June 11 to September 21

WHERE Senákw/Vanier Park

COST From $30

Bard brains, get thee to the beach for some sun and Shakespeare, specifically Twelfth Night, set to the music of celebrated Vancouver songstress Veda Hille. Seeth thee th’re?

TOGA PARTY: GREEK DAY ON BROADWAY

WHEN June 23

WHERE West Broadway COST Free

Greece is the word at this all-day fam-friendly street party in Kits’s Greektown. Come for the live music, dancing and cultural celebration—stay for the souvlaki, gyros and baklava.

For our full list of fun to-dos around town this month, check out our online So Fun City events calendar at vanmag.com

Kerri Donaldson

CIRQUE DE SLAY: JIMBO’S DRAG CIRCUS

WHEN June 11

WHERE Vogue Theatre

COST From $40

RuPaul’s Drag Race All-Stars season 8 winner and Canada’s beloved buxom drag oddball is bringing her circus spectacle to our town and we are more than down to clown.

ROMAN HOLIDAY: ITALIAN DAY ON THE DRIVE

WHEN June 9

WHERE Commercial Drive COST Free

Get ready for an Italian street party that’s sure to be a fun (and tasty) way to celebrate the birthplace of pizza (among other things, sure).

BIG TENT ENERGY: CIRQUE ALFONSE PRESENTS BARBU

WHEN June 12 to 23

WHERE The Cultch COST From $39

Get ready for a retro circus rave! (Three words you don’t often hear together.) With a live electro-trad band and the theme “birth of the circus in early 1900s Montreal” it’s like a twirly-mustache Bat Signal.

ANCHORS AWAY: COLIN JOST

WHEN June 23

WHERE Queen Elizabeth Theatre

COST From $54

Scarlett Johansson’s hubby (and SNL’s Weekend Update co-anchor) is coming to the Queen E. Come get some jests and jokes from Jost.

THE PLAYLIST

Here’s what singersongwriter, comedian, drag artist and selfdescribed glamour clown Toddy has on their pop culture radar.

Tár

It was such a stunning and real depiction of how we have created a system that protects those who are powerful. Also, Cate Blanchett in a Sapphic role... need I say more!

DRAG RACE: CONCORD PACIFIC DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL

WHEN June 21 to 23

WHERE False Creek COST Free

Live music, food vendors and over 200 teams from around the world paddling for all the glory—think: aquatic Kentucky Derby (minus the fun hats... though you can wear a fun hat if you want!)

JAZZ HANDS: KILLER MIKE AT THE JAZZ FESTIVAL

WHEN June 29

WHERE Granville Island and various venues

COST From $59

The Vancouver International Jazz Fest loves to challenge our ideas of what “jazz” is (is VIJF super punk?), and we love to see it. This year, Grammy-winning rapper and activist Killer Mike is on deck.

Severance

I am waiting with bated breath for the second season. It’s one of my favourite TV shows ever. That cliff-hanger at the end of season one was

Toddy’s single “Wounded” is now available on streaming services and their debut glam rock album, Always, drops this month.

AIR CANADA DROPS A NEW, MOUTH-WATERING, INTERNATIONAL MENU

INSPIRED BY CANADIAN TALENT

Air Canada’s major upgrade of onboard dining for all travellers features new culinary offerings and globally-inspired flavours.

BY JESSICA KIRBY

Picture it: a full, warm breakfast on morning flights, palette-stimulating wraps and hearty sandwiches to fuel you through the day, and chef-curated mains that will take your tastebuds on a culinary adventure around the world.

A delectable new culinary program from Air Canada is thoughtfully crafted to proudly champion Canadian brands, entrepreneurs, chefs and local ingredients. It spotlights Air Canada’s long-standing culinary partners Chef David Hawksworth, Chef Vikram Vij and Chef Jérôme Ferrer, showcasing flavours, textures and fresh, quality ingredients that sing at cruising altitude, complemented by wine selections from Air Canada sommelier Véronique Rivest.

The result? More than 100 new seasonal, rotating recipes with bigger, bolder flavours, a new range of craveable snacks and new irresistible beverages for everyone.

ECONOMY DELIGHTS

Flying International Economy? Let your tastebuds revel in global delights, such as red Thai chicken with rice, chicken cacciatore with roasted potatoes and bell peppers or classic pesto penne. Kick off your culinary adventure with regionally inspired appetizers, like soba noodles, chaat, hummus and vegetables.

The Air Canada Bistro menu, available on Economy flights within North America and to the Caribbean, tempts with nutritious breakfast options, new fresh and vegan options, and hearty meals, including Mediterranean hummus wraps, and peppercorn roast beef sandwiches.

ELEVATING PREMIUM

Air Canada Signature Class travellers can indulge in a four-course meal, featuring new rotating recipes, like the mezze plate, roasted salmon in teriyaki sauce and butter chicken with basmati rice.

And for North America Business Class and Premium Rouge guests, refreshed light meals on shorter flights introduce new, comforting eats, like warm flatbread with arugula, chicken tenders with coleslaw and full, warm breakfasts including a parsley omelette with chicken sausage or traditional pancakes with 100% pure Canadian maple syrup.

If Premium Economy is your jam, get excited for honey ginger sesame chicken on Shandong noodles, chicken parmigiana or shepherd’s pie with beef, paired perfectly with your drink of choice.

FEELING SNACKY?

Tantalize your tastebuds with family-owned and female-led, Canadian brand TWIGZ buttery herb and garlic craft pretzels, complimentary on select flights. Savour Ghirardelli sea salt caramel dark chocolate squares and Chomps grass-fed beef sticks—new to the snack basket of sweet and salty treats offered complimentary in Premium cabins.

There are also even more snacks available for purchase in our Economy cabin, like Canadian GOOD TO GO Blondies treats and Nomz energy bites.

EVERYONE REFRESHED

Raise your glass to curated wines, spirits and craft beers, with Air Canada’s bar offering— the largest of any airline in North America.

Enjoy a range of non-alcoholic drinks, including Earth’s Own oat milk for coffee, and fresh, fragrant tea blends from Dilmah, including specialty flavours on select flights.

EXPANDED MEAL PRE-ORDER

New for 2024, Air Canada has expanded its popular pre-order meal service to include premium cabin services within North America. Options for customers in premium cabins to pre-select their second meal choice on international flights will follow later this year.

Start your international culinary journey today. Visit aircanada.com/bonappetit to learn more about Air Canada’s new elevated inflight menu and dining additions

@aircanada

Pass It On

Mameyo Goods’ leather works are made with a sentimentality and soul that’s meant to be shared.

by Alyssa Hirose

Working a corporate job in graphic design had Maxine Young feeling a tech slump that many of us can relate to: “I got to a point where I was looking at a screen all day, every day,” she recalls. The New Zealandborn designer moved to Canada in 2016, and that screen fatigue, coupled with a love for browsing Vancouver’s buzzy craft market scene, inspired her to try a more hands-on kind of art. Three months into leather working classes, she was hooked. “I became absolutely obsessed with it,” she says.

Young’s Gastown-based brand, Mameyo Goods, uses leather that is a by-product of the meat industry, making functional and long-lasting bags, wallets, keychains and other accessories out of materials that would otherwise waste away in the garbage. “I’m quite a sentimental person, so I want to create things that people can have with them for years to come,” says Young. Each piece proves her emotional connection to her craft: the Valerie bag is modelled after a bucket bag her stylish grandma gave her (“She has really gorgeous taste,” Young says); the Bonita backpack, meanwhile, is named after a street she once lived on (“I carried a not-so-good leather backpack,” she remembers with a laugh).

Besides handmade wares, Mameyo Goods offers workshops to further share Young’s love of leather—take her five-hour classic tote bag workshop and you’ll leave

EDITOR’S PICK

the studio with a custom tote of your own (and the priceless pride of a job well done). “There is something so satisfying about making something from nothing,” Young says. “It’s just such a lovely thing to be creative in a way that you’re not usually in your day-to-day life.”

Designer Maxine Young (bottom left) took inspiration for this versatile bucket bag, called the Little Valerie ($340), from a coveted accessory of her grandmother’s. The timeless leather bag is available in five different colourways.

Local Leather Mameyo Goods’ Valerie bucket bag (this photo), Selene half moon bag (bottom right) and Penny bucket bag (bottom left) are all made in Gastown.

DISCOVER IDEAS, INNOVATORS AND BIG THINKERS

Explore Mount Pleasant’s ‘Michelin Mile’

Bar Susu French Bistro

Osteria Savio Volpe Italian

¿CóMO? Taperia Spanish Tapas

Why Is the Permanent Building Full of Computer Servers?

It’s one of downtown’s most beautiful buildings—and the internet lives there.

I used to dread the day my daughter would be old enough to ask me the big, tough question that all kids inevitably pose: How does the internet work? The best answer I had prepared was “sorcery and electricity.” This is admittedly not as helpful as you might expect from

someone who took a third-level university course called “Communications Technology” and once owned a book from the Scholastic Book Fair titled Surf’s Up! A Kids’ Guide to the World Wide Web

But I dread that day no longer. Now I can just take her downtown to see the internet for herself, because that’s where it lives—in Vancouver’s most beautiful house, no less.

mission is to provide Universal Access to All Knowledge,” says the website. It’s a noble, honourable goal, if you ignore the fact that one of the web pages that’s been archived is the 2gether fan site I made on GeoCities in 2001.

Well, technically, Vancouver’s most beautiful former bank. The Permanent Building, as it’s known, was first built in 1907 on Pender Street as an office for the B.C. Permanent and Loan Company, before being taken over by the Bank of Canada in ’35. More recently, it operated as an events venue— with neo-classical design details that make a beautiful backdrop for weddings or launch parties for new flavours of vape juice (ooh, blue razzcumber!). You may also recognize it from its scene-stealing role as Veronica Lodge’s apartment building on Riverdale. But, like many of us in the arts, the Permanent would pivot to a tech career: in 2022, it became the headquarters of the Internet Archive of Canada.

Storing all of this data requires physical resources, including powerful servers— which, as I understand it, are sort of like oversized refrigerators that the internet’s brain is stuffed into. (Sorry to get technical there! In layman’s terms, big box go beep boop.) These servers house more than 145 petabytes of info, a number so big it sounds like a type of dinosaur. But you can’t just leave those servers out in the backyard like your friend’s mean stepdad who insists his German shepherd is an “outdoor dog.” They’ll get wet and all the internet will leak out! No, the servers need to be stored inside.

by Stacey McLachlan

by Byron Eggenschwiler

Got a question for Know-It-All?

stacey.mclachlan@ vanmag.com

Internet Archive is a nonprofit founded by Brewster Kahle, a rare rich tech guy who seems to care about other people and has not once threatened to fight Mark Zuckerberg. His dream is to build a free digital archive of websites and cultural artifacts, and he has already hoarded 835 billion web pages, 44 million books and 2.6 million TV news programs. (If you fall asleep to news bloopers every night, chances are you’ve got Kahle to thank. God’s work.) It’s a digital library dedicated to capturing the ephemeral and to creating information accessibility: “Our

Kahle bought the Permanent Building because it resembles the San Francisco headquarters of the Internet Archive (maybe #twinning is also part of the Archive’s mandate). Apparently, the building will also be used to house meetings, parties and lectures in the future, so perhaps the Internet Archive does need more square footage than the average Vancouver renter. But if you’re thinking this elegant heritage building is awfully fancy to be used as a storage locker, then shame on you. Who says a computer server can’t enjoy a stained-glass atrium or restored tile mosaic?! That whirring, buzzing electrical box is filled with more knowledge than any soft and finite human brain— surely it has access to data that explains how pretty crown mouldings are. And if it doesn’t, that’s something I can confidently articulate when I swing by to drop off my daughter.

BY THE EDITORS

RESTAURANT AWARDS

It's here: the big reveal.. and we mean big. Thanks to a super-sized list of categories, a jam-packed new Readers' Choice segment, a trio of esteemed Hall of Fame inductees and (just for good measure) a handful of very special Editors' Picks, we've got more than 75 winning restaurants and industry allstars on our 2024 list. Hope you're hungry.

STAR POWER

Our cover star (tee hee) comes from Bravo, 2024's Best New Restaurant: Hokkaido scallops with apple, cucumber, and crispy jalapeño.

FUN HOUSE

Perhaps AnnaLena’s appeal comes from the fact that seriousness never means an absence of fun here.

PAST ROTY WINNERS

★ 2023 AnnaLena 1809 W 1st Ave., annalena.ca

★ 2022 St. Lawrence 269 Powell St, stlawrencerestaurant.com

★ 2020 Boulevard 845 Burrard St., boulevardvancouver.ca

★ 2019 Savio Volpe 615 Kingsway, saviovolpe.com

★ 2018 St. Lawrence 269 Powell St., stlawrencerestaurant.com

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

★ ANNALENA

1809 W 1st Ave., Vancouver annalena.ca

This is the second year in a row that AnnaLena has taken the top prize in our Restaurant Awards. And while it’s tempting to think of the nineyear-old spot as a late bloomer, the reality is that through all its incarnations (from a playful upstart with share plates starting at $5 to a COVID-pivoter offering a four-course $49 takeaway to today’s $144 tasting menu that books out a month in advance), AnnaLena has been a restaurant that nails its stated goals with an across-the-board application of serious focus. What’s even more impressive is that each of those transitions happened seamlessly, with the restaurant bringing its patrons—few in town have such a dedicated, loyal fanbase—happily along with them for the ride.

When AnnaLena opened in 2015 on a forgotten patch of far-east Kits, few outsiders would have suspected that FOH/BOH duo Jeff Parr and Michael Robbins would become the pacesetters for imaginative cuisine in the city. But in retrospect, it’s clear that after years of toiling in other people’s restaurants, the pair became fixated on creating a room of their own that could match their commitment to working at the highest level. In part, that means having a deep talent pool in every role—think chefs, somms and servers. Their sommelier goes on maternity leave? They have another rockstar waiting in the wings in Reverie Beall. One of our eagle-eyed judges noted that AnnaLena features “not only chef Robbins on their website, but also the four chefs working with him” (that’s Brent Lukoni, Chad Martin, RJ Latorre and Enrique Quiroga)—and it’s a telling point. Parr and Robbins know that it takes a team to reach the heights they’re striving for.

And where those heights end, who knows. In a next-level doubling-down on dedication, they recently reduced the number of seats to just 32 in order to ensure that they can both meet and exceed their intensely high bar for quality. Chef Robbins continues his back-to-the-drawingboard approach of creating unique tasting menus seasonally, so that the only constant is AnnaLena’s adherence to local fare plus the occasional curveball ingredient—bagel butter being a recent sly addition. But despite it all, this never feels like a “tasting menu” spot. There’s a warmness to the entire operation, and a sense of joy pervades the space. It’s proof that fun and fine dining don’t have to be mutually exclusive.

AnnaLena chef

Michael Robbins

PAST COTY WINNERS

★ 2023 Michael Robbins AnnaLena, 1809 W 1st Ave., annalena.ca

★ 2022 Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson Published on Main, 3593 Main St., publishedonmain.com

★ 2020 Andrea Carlson Burdock and Co, 2702 Main St., burdockandco.com

★ 2019 JC Poirier St. Lawrence, 269 Powell St., stlawrencerestaurant.com

★ 2018 Alex Chen Boulevard, 845 Burrard St., boulevardvancouver.ca

CHEF OF THE YEAR

★ LEE COOPER L’Abattoir

217 Carrall St., Vancouver labattoir.ca

If you ask Lee Cooper about his culinary career, he might rewind a couple of decades and tell you about what it was like being the opening sous chef at the Shangri-La’s Market by Jean Georges, or sous for the legendary Scott Jaeger at the Pear Tree. Or he might jump back a bit more to his Europe days, when he was chef de partie at the much-awarded Fat Duck. Then he could think back further still and recall apprenticing under Rob Butters at Kelowna’s Fresco or Michael Allemeier’s sous chef at Mission Hill Winery. And before that? Working for his uncle Bernie (that’s Bernard Casavant, the first Western Canadian chef to represent the country in France’s Bocuse d’Or).

Or perhaps he could start at the very beginning, when he washed lettuce and sliced tomatoes at his dad’s A&W in Nanaimo. “I was, for better or for worse, born into this business,” Cooper jokes. His diverse resume explains, in part, why his Gastown restaurant, L’Abattoir, is so unique. “I still struggle to even describe what our restaurant is,” says the chef. “It’s got a French name... but it’s not really French.”

Cooper opened L’Abattoir with Nin Rai (Truffles Fine Foods) and Paul Grunberg (Banda Volpi group) in 2010. And while elevated food in a laidback atmosphere might be a classic Vancouver restaurant archetype now, it wasn’t back then. “We wanted to provide the food and the service of a fine dining restaurant environment, but make sure you could be relaxed and have fun and maybe have one too many drinks,” says Cooper. “The whole thing was built around wanting this restaurant to be, like, fucking cool.”

And cool it absolutely is—the chef’s creative, rule-breaking and elevated cooking makes it so. Our judging panel commended Cooper for “fine dining without pretension,” the “precision and sheer beauty of his plates” and “an unceasing focus in evolving his menu to reflect his huge technical talent and culinary imagination.” Take the steak tartare with bluefin otoro and fried shiso or the Gaspor pork loin with clams, chorizo-filled morel mushrooms and parsley sauce—everything on the plate is as thoughtful as it is tasty. A few choice dishes (like the baked Pacific oyster with black truffle oil and whipped garlic butter) have been on the menu for years, but otherwise the lineup changes often: with the seasons, with local

YES, CHEF

Chef Lee Cooper has executed his vision of a cool, creative, unbeholden-to-genre restaurant with aplomb.

produce, with the whims of the team. “Sometimes we’ll change something just because we’re bored of looking at it,” Cooper shares.

L’Abattoir has grown up alongside its chef, and now Cooper is prioritizing paying it forward, offering mentorship, practicums and collaboration opportunities to up-and-coming chefs. The restaurant’s No.1 Gaoler’s Mews dinners benefit local charities (this year, they’re donating proceeds to the Downtown East Side Neighbourhood House). And in the kitchen, the chef continues to innovate and push himself and his team to the very top of their game. “We try to do things other people can’t, and we try to do them at pace,” he says. “If it was easy, it wouldn’t be fun.”

By not catering to a strict set of rules and staying true to the soul of the chef, L’Abattoir has managed to at once be a restaurant that’s difficult to categorize but also easy to recognize— the restaurant is a mainstay on Canada’s 100 Best, the Michelin Guide’s recommended list and, of course, the Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards (L’Abattoir won two silver medals in this year’s awards—yes, one of them is Best French—and is a finalist in the Best Gastown Reader’s Choice Award). Forget standard classification: we can all agree it’s fucking cool.

BEST BUSINESS LUNCH

★ HAWKSWORTH

801 W Georgia St. hawksworthrestaurant.com

Hawksworth has earned plenty of global accolades for its upscale West Coast menu and white-tablecloth elegance—but it’s time we talked about the insane lunch deal you can get here. A three-course prix fixe is just $36, and the business crowd knows it. At noon, you’ll find the dining room buzzing with power lunchers enjoying plates of heirloom carrot tartare with black garlic and toasted cashews, brokering deals as they cut into roasted pork cheek on a bed of turnip purée. There’s never a bad time to hit up Hawksworth for a top-tier meal, but if you mean business, lunch is where it’s at.

PASTRY CHEF OF THE YEAR

★ KENTA TAKAHASHI Boulevard

845 Burrard St., Vancouver boulevardvancouver.ca

Would you like to see the dessert menu? If you’re dining at Boulevard, the answer should always, always be yes—and that’s thanks to the thoughtful, delicious work of Kenta Takahashi, our 2024 Pastry Chef of the Year.

Looking at Takahashi’s intricate, beautiful dishes—a delicate jasmine panna cotta nestled next to fresh peach tea ice cream; a crunchy sesame praline bar with fluffy chocolate mousse; a translucent, sugary cylinder layered with pistachio cream and cassis compote—it’s clear that his attention to detail is supreme. “I calculate the ratios, colour combinations, composition, height, width, balance... there is reason behind everything,” he says. It’s not surprising that the pastry chef also dabbles in painting and photography.

Despite the near-obsessive effort that goes into his work, Takahashi has an admirably humble attitude toward it. “It’s all classic and basic things that people learn in pastry school,” says the chef, who was born in Shizuoka, Japan, and attended pastry school and began his career in Tokyo before moving to Vancouver, where he got his Canadian start at the then-brand-new Thierry. He’s been at Boulevard for seven years, now, and while some of his desserts are considered classics (that perfect praline bar, for example), no one could mistake his elegant, meditative creations as basic.

As much as we love a scoop (especially if it’s Takahashi’s house-made sorbet), we’re not the first to honour the Boulevard chef’s sweet skills: he was named Best Pastry Chef by Canada’s 100 Best in both 2020 and 2023. And while he admits that the 2020 award turned up the pressure, leading him to be mostly heads-down in the kitchen—particularly because of the, ahem, other global goings-on that year—the pastry chef says he’s feeling a lot more comfortable about the 2023 acknowledgement. “I can see how much the award helps me, now,” he says. “I see more potential, I’m looking for more collaborations, I’m looking forward to the future.” Well, here’s another accolade to add to the mix—the proverbial cherry on top.

IT’S BEEN A SLICE Kenta Takahashi isn’t greedy with his desserts: he collaborates with other restaurants around the world (he flew to Taiwan to work with Taipei’s Koshi Café this year).

BEST HAPPY HOUR

★ THE

CHICKADEE ROOM

182 Keefer St. thechickadeeroom.com

This neon-lit little bar next door to Juke (a Best Fried Chicken finalist in our Readers’ Choice division, page 63) has a happy hour so good, we’d keep it to ourselves if we didn’t have “a dedication to our readers” or “journalistic integrity” or whatever. So, begrudgingly, we celebrate the Chickadee Room. From 4 to 6 p.m. every day— yes, including weekends— order your first happy hour cocktail and get two pieces of that crispy fried chicken for free. Value and imaginative drinks aside (so far this year they’ve mixed bevs inspired by Lana Del Ray and a cult fave Chinese horror comedy), this bar’s menu gives back to the community through feature drinks that give to local causes (think the Vancouver Black Library, Everywoman’s Health Centre and Environmental Youth Alliance)... and we’re extra happy about that.

BEST NEW

★ BRAVO

4194 Fraser St. bravovancouver.com

Our panel of expert judges with diverse palates and differing opinions all agree: this issue’s cover star Bravo deserves all the applause. “You feel like an insider from the very first visit,” said one judge. “Everyone is there for a good time,” claimed another. “This is the kind of new space Vancouver needs more of,” declared a third. The seafood-focused restaurant opened inside the former much-beloved Ubuntu space last August, and immediately thrilled diners with striking crudos, spectacular scallops and a well-curated wine program. The dry-aging dynamo may be new to the Fraserhood, but that’s not exactly the vibe. One judge summed it up: “Bravo feels like it fully inhabits the room and has been there forever.” At Sushi Mahana, chef Hiroshi Hoshiko’s mischievous charm and masterful technique earns the silver in this category: the aji, king salmon and spot prawn nigiri are standouts, as well as the masterful sauces and delicate desserts (we’re looking at you, caramel panna cotta). “Much to love about this daring project and its chosen location... I am rooting for them,” said one judge. And bronze winner Gary’s has made such a splash on 12th Avenue—juicy Cornish hen in white wine jus and bright kanpachi crudo are faves—that it’s making our panel daydream about moving: “I am smitten with Gary’s charms and only wish I lived in the neighbourhood so it could be ‘my spot,’” one noted. Richmond’s Missing Chopsticks and Cambie’s Seaport City also came in grills a-blazing (an honourable mention is awarded to both), confirming that it’s one of the most competitive lineups this category has seen in recent history.

★ Sushi Mahana 175 3rd St. W, North Vancouver, sushimahana.com

★ Gary’s 1485 W 12th Ave., garysrestaurant.ca

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Missing Chopsticks 130–13880 Wireless Wy., Richmond, missingchopsticks.com Seaport City Restaurant 2425 Cambie St., seaportcityrestaurant.com

MARCEE RAE

BEST CASUAL

★ CHANCHO TORTILLERIA

2096 Commercial Dr. chancho.ca

Who better than a taco joint to take top honours in a category that celebrates the culinary art of no-fuss dining? Casually earning themselves gold for the second year in a row since relocating to the Drive, Chancho Tortilleria maintains its excellence in delivering what our judges called “near perfection” carnitas—handchopped to order—and tortillas so well-constructed they’ve revolutionized this town’s taco game. The colourful new space only adds to the experience, ensuring every visit is as fresh as the food itself. Silver goes to Street Hawker, where chef Justin Cheung’s “crave-worthy flavours and epic concoctions” take you on a nostalgic trip down memory lane with a neon-tinged, ’90s arcade twist. Think juicy burgers that demand a stash of napkins and milkshakes that you can’t— and shouldn’t—resist, like the Milo Dino (malted chocolate) shake. “The General Tao Crusher chicken sando packed me to the gills and tingled my tastebuds,” admitted one judge. Snagging bronze is Fat Mao Noodles, where chef and owner Angus An captivates with his bold Thai flavours. Whether it’s the classic hot and sour pork noodles or the two locations’ signature soups, each dish testifies to the restaurant’s vibrancy. Honourable mentions Motonobu Udon and La Grotta del Formaggio serve, respectively, Japanese comfort at its finest and an Italian experience so authentic you might just hear the gondoliers.

★ Street Hawker 3088 Main St., streethawker.ca

★ Fat Mao Noodles 217 E Georgia St. and 983 Helmcken St., fatmaonoodles.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Motonobu Udon 3501 E Hastings St., motonobuudon.ca

La Grotta del Formaggio 1791 Commercial Dr., lagrottadelformaggio.com

BEST CONTEMPORARY

★ ANNALENA

1809 W 1st Ave. annalena.ca

The Michelin-starred AnnaLena reigns supreme here with gold: chef Mike Robbins and team offer a menu that dazzles with notable dishes like dry-aged duck breast with scallop agnolotti. Our judges praised the cohesive menu (enriched by the optional A5 wagyu), with each dish narrating a story of B.C.’s culinary marvels. The ambiance perfectly mirrors Robbins’s precision and cool style, described as “smartly sophisticated with touches of street art.” After winning last year’s Restaurant of the Year (and Chef of the Year), Robbins and team keep the bar they’ve set sky high. L’Abattoir secures silver, with our 2024 Chef of the Year Lee Cooper at the helm. Judges highlighted the glazed lingcod “accompanied by a mushroom that almost defied description in its deliciousness” along with the “astounding” crepinette-style scallop-wrapped pork sausage as culinary triumphs, showcasing Cooper’s skillful melding of French techniques with Asian ones. Bronze goes to another Michelin-starred favourite, Published on Main, where chef Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson delivers originality and whimsical flavours. One judge even called it one of his “favourite contemporary restaurants in the city.” The $29 venison tartare was hailed as “in the running for perfect Western Canadian dish,” emblematic of Stieffenhofer-Brandson’s talent for trendsetting without pretension. Honourable mentions Botanist and Kissa Tanto round out the category with their own distinctive flairs. Botanist chef Hector Laguna produces “jaw-droppingly good dishes,” like the beef tartare and roasted maitake with onion jus, while Kissa Tanto (under chef Joel Watanabe) wields a confident new Italian-Japanese culinary vocabulary, with one judge saying: “The tajarin with butter, roasted mushrooms and miso-cured yolk is hard to beat.”

★ L’Abattoir 217 Carrall St., labattoir.ca

★ Published on Main 3593 Main St., publishedonmain.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Botanist 1083 Canada Pl., botanistrestaurant.com

Kissa Tanto 263 E Pender St., kissatanto.com

MAGGIE LAM

PRODUCER OF THE YEAR

★ SUNRISE SOYA FOODS

There aren’t too many Producer of the Year winners who have this much seriously local cred. Sure, today they’re the country’s largest manufacturer of a product that many Vancouverites consider a refrigerator staple. But in 1956, they were making micro batches in the back of the family grocery store, serving the small but devoted Chinese community. In fact, many foodies may not even realize that Sunrise Soya Foods—the tofu brand so pervasive that it practically defines the product—was born on Powell Street, where Sunrise Market still operates. In the almost seven decades this producer has operated, plant-based diets have taken off, Asian cuisine has become synonymous with Vancouver’s food scene and tofu has extra-firmly asserted itself as a mainstay on both restaurant menus (think spiced up in mapo, braised in hot pots, sweetened in vegan cheesecakes) and shoppers’ grocery lists. Soya want to talk about legacy? This is it. sunrise-soya.com

BEST LATIN AMERICAN

★ SUYO MODERN PERUVIAN

3475 Main St. suyo.ca

Gold winner Suyo isn’t just creating a new standard for Latin American cuisine in the city: it’s a pacesetter for the whole scene. “It’s truly one of the finest experiences in Vancouver,” praised one judge. The jungle-inspired room sets the mood for a meal with Peruvian soul, from the outrageously fresh and punchy ceviche menu to the now-iconic arroz con pato featuring tender duck breast and confit leg atop a bed of vibrant cilantro-beer rice. Silver medallist Monarca , meanwhile, takes Vancouverites to Mexico with its embrace of regional ingredients and techniques. Tortillas here are made from corn sourced from small farms; cuitlacoche brings a truffle-like dimension to dishes. Judges are still talking about the cured scallop and prawn with jalapeño lime broth. (“Really tasty and just spicy enough that you want to go back for another spoonful,” said one.) Also on the podium is Chancho Tortilleria (bronze); though decidedly more casual than its fellow category winners here, Chancho wowed our judges with hot-off-the-press tortillas, flavourful housemade salsas and piles of rich, shredded pork shoulder. “It’s all about the taco,” one noted. La Mezcaleria and Cuchillo earn honourable mentions in the category—two more consistent (and fun) spots for authentic Mexican here in the city.

★ Monarca 181 Carrall St., monarcavancouver.ca

★ Chancho Tortilleria 2096 Commercial Dr., chancho.ca

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

La Mezcaleria 1622 Commercial Dr., lamezcaleria.ca

Cuchillo 261 Powell St., cuchillo.ca

CHELSEA BROWN

RESTAURANTS ARE THE OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD RESTAURANTS ARE THE OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

RESTAURANTS ARE THE OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD RESTAURANTS ARE THE OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

RESTAURANTS ARE THE OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD RESTAURANTS ARE THE OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

RESTAURANTS ARE THE OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD RESTAURANTS ARE THE OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

RESTAURANTS ARE THE OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD RESTAURANTS ARE THE OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

BEST VIETNAMESE

★ CRAB HOT LAU

2141 Kingsway crabhotlauvancouver.ca

Longtime Restaurant Awards followers will know that categories change every year, with some rotating in and out to make space for others. Best Vietnamese hasn’t seen our awards stage since 2020, but that’s not to say this much-loved category of restaurants hasn’t been serving up excellence in that time—in fact, our top two are both under five years old. So, let’s give an overdue ovation to our 2024 gold winner Crab Hot Lau and silver winner Wooden Fish: the former a daring East Van spot that’s reaching icon status for crispy crab spring rolls; the latter a vibrant West Van eatery known for indulgent braised short rib stew and house-made chili garlic sauce. Bronze goes to Main Street mainstay Anh and Chi , where bucket-list dishes like the massive turmeric crepe and the assembly-required street-side platter mix fresh fun with family tradition. Honourable mentions go to neighbourhood favourites Mr. Red Café and Hoi An Café.

★ Wooden Fish 1403 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, thewoodenfish.ca

★ Anh and Chi 3388 Main St., anhandchi.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Mr. Red Café 2680 W Broadway, mrredcafe.ca

Hoi An Café 5002 Victoria Dr., 604-566-9283

BEST SPECIAL OCCASION

KISSA TANTO 263 E Pender St. kissatanto.com

Kissa Tanto—not quite Japanese, not quite Italian—doesn’t fit neatly into our other restaurant award categories, so it’s sometimes (tragically!) left out of the Restaurant Awards festivities, despite its undeniable excellence. (The confit albacore tuna, smoked potato and tobiko on bruschetta? The Dungeness crab charcoal udon with Calabrian chili butter? Get out of here.) And so it seems more than appropriate for this unique new award to go to a unique restaurant—a place that is dark, dreamy, seductively lost in time and unlike anywhere else in town. Slip upstairs into one of the intimate, rose-leather booths around a mahogany table and order something “tender to the tooth,” and you’ll see. Whatever your excuse for visiting—celebrating a birthday, an anniversary, a job promotion, a Tuesday—it’s going to be a special one.

LEILA KWOK

BEST CHINESE (CASUAL)

★ THE FISH MAN

1170–8391 Alexandra Rd., Richmond fishmanrestaurant.com

To find anything fresher than what’s on your plate at The Fish Man (this year’s gold winner in this category) you’d have to head straight into the sea. The boisterous restaurant is filled with families, groups of friends and foodies sharing the numbingly spicy water-boiled fish, grilled snacks on bamboo skewers, prawns tossed in salted duck yolk and clay-pot Alaskan black cod with braised tofu. Our silver winner, meanwhile, specializes in oodles of noodles (our judges dubbed Max Noodle House “the last proper Hong Kong-style wonton noodle house in Metro Vancouver”). Here, the little details are perfect. The alkaline noodles have just the right toothsome bite, the wontons are filled with care and are light on the palate and the broth is deep and resonant. The fried chicken wings are marinated in Chinese rice wine, and the stewed beef brisket hums with dried tangerine peel. For a taste of Shanghai, head to bronze winner Shanghai Wonderful think radish cakes, Shanghai soup dumplings, spicy chili Sichuan chicken. Honourable mentions Bao Bei and Yuan’s Garden are wonderful in their own way: the former is a continuously hip modern Chinese brasserie; the latter has families queueing up on weekends.

★ Max Noodle House 8291 Alexandra Rd., Richmond, 604-231-8141

★ Shanghai Wonderful 9260 Bridgeport Rd., Richmond, 604-278-8829

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Bao Bei 163 Keefer St., bao-bei.ca

Yuan’s Garden 101–8077 Alexandra Rd., Richmond, yuansgarden.com

BEST CHINESE (UPSCALE)

★ DYNASTY 108–777 W Broadway dynasty-restaurant.ca

Dynasty, our gold winner, has been a fixture of the Best Chinese categories for decades, and this year they’re back on top. Dishes are expertly executed with quality ingredients and finesse—one judge called Dynasty “the top choice for impressing guests.” Both dim sum and dinner dishes are executed flawlessly here: during the day, tuck into squid-ink pork and shrimp dumplings, fermented spareribs and deep-fried squid tentacles; come dinner, multi-course feasts centering on Peking duck and king crab wow. Silver medallist Mott 32 is no slouch, though: standout dishes include the hot and sour soup buns, mapo tofu lobster and absolutely superb stir-fried broccoli with ginkgo and red dates. Beyond the food, Mott 32 has energy, ambition and, in the words of one judge, a “fun sense of swagger.” Bronze winner iDen and Quan Ju De Beijing Duck House specializes in duck, but the modern, upscale restaurant serves up impeccable Shanghai smoked fish and smoked bison, too. (Hot tip: the happy hour menu is a steal.) Honourable mentions Chef’s Choice and Sea Harbour further demonstrate the wealth of options for upscale Chinese cuisine.

★ Mott 32 1161 W Georgia St., mott32.com

★ iDen and Quan Ju De Beijing Duck House 2808 Cambie St., quanjudevancouver.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Chef’s Choice 955 W Broadway, chefschoice1198.com

Sea Harbour 150–8888 River Rd., Richmond, seaharbour.com

LEILA KWOK

MARK YUEN

BEST DATE NIGHT

568 Beatty St. chambar.com

Imagine you and your date in a trendy, dimly lit space with exposed brick, diving into fresh mussels and sipping on elegant cocktails like the Blue Fig martini—it comes with blue cheese, showcasing your sophisticated side. That’s the kind of Belgian-style romance you can expect from our Best Date Night winner, Chambar. Reveal your cosmopolitan tastes by selecting from their extensive range of top-notch Belgian beers on tap. Leverage your grade-four French to smoothly order Le Canard— duck confit with ricotta and goat cheese gnocchi, accompanied by a celery and hazelnut salad and shaved green apple—and choose a bottle from their impressive wine list. The ambiance here is cool and cozy, ideal for sharing moules frites as you gaze into each other’s eyes, pondering what your kids might look like—or pretending you don’t have any for the night.

BEST UPSCALE

★ PUBLISHED ON MAIN

3593 Main St. publishedonmain.com

The appearance of an “upscale” restaurant has changed significantly in the past years. But while white tablecloths and crisply dressed staff may have fallen out of fashion, there’s no doubt that these winning restaurants are still offering world-class meals and service. Published on Main , our gold winner in the category, serves up plates that our judges described as “flawless, from start to finish.” Every dish, from the smoked and candied sablefish to the merguez-wrapped lamb saddle, is crafted with painstaking precision by chef Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson and team and served up like a work of art—a feast for the eyes. AnnaLena (silver) offers impeccable but unpretentious service and endlessly inventive dishes with a playful twist: think oysters topped with shaved foie gras served in a smoking, stickered Styrofoam cooler. Over in Railtown, St. Lawrence snagged bronze for its continued commitment to elevating rustic Quebecois cuisine. It’s another room that hits that sweet spot between casual and elegant—jewel-toned walls, glinting silverware on wooden tables—with dishes that are at once comforting and considered. Honourable mentions L’Abattoir and Elisa make for exceptional special occasion dining spots.

L’Abattoir 217 Carrall St., labattoir.ca Elisa 1109 Hamilton St., elisasteak.com ★ CHAMBAR

★ AnnaLena 1809 W 1st Ave., annalena.ca

★ St. Lawrence 269 Powell St., stlawrencerestaurant.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

SARAH ANNAND

CULINARY DREAMS BEGIN AT LASALLE COLLEGE VANCOUVER

In the heart of a city celebrated for its diverse and vibrant culinary scene, LaSalle College Vancouver is setting a new standard for aspiring chefs and pastry artists.

BY JESSICA KIRBY

If you dream of becoming a pastry artist, a fine-dining chef or a culinary professional, what is the recipe for success? With the upcoming opening of its state-of-the-art, 108,000-squarefoot creative campus and its innovative curriculum, LaSalle College Vancouver is at the forefront of culinary, baking and pastry arts education.

As Vancouver readies itself for the upcoming Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards, the college is preparing to rollout its next flavourful chapter. Christine Couvelier, celebrated executive chef and global culinary trendologist, has joined the college’s culinary leadership team where she’ll steer strategic initiatives to recruit industry involvement, drive on-campus culinary events and set the stage (and table) for the next generation of tastemakers.

Couvelier encapsulates the culinary world in three words: “It’s all about taste, taste, taste.” Where passion for food and culinary excellence drives every course, workshop and student experience, LaSalle College Vancouver is a place to bring one’s passion for flavour to the table. With over 40 years in the industry, Couvelier emphasizes the importance of memories and experiences shaped around food, illustrating how culinary arts extend beyond cooking.

“That’s the magic recipe to a great food experience,” Couvelier reflects. “Sharing food with family and friends and making your heart sing.”

She highlights Vancouver’s exploding food scene as a testament to the power of local tastes and artisanal excellence. LaSalle College Vancouver’s culinary program is designed to immerse students in a dynamic environment, fostering a deep understanding of local and global trends. The campus

uniquely offers a fine-dining restaurant, a rooftop garden—from which students can harvest and prepare ingredients, integrating sustainability into every dish—and state-ofthe-art industrial kitchens.

“The campus is not just a place for learning,” Couvelier says. “It’s a hub where culinary professionals converge to share ideas, challenges and delicious visions for the future.” For example, she points to a few things an aspiring culinary or baking and pastry professional can do outside quality education to unlock their career.

“Being externally focused is my first tip,” Couvelier says. “Really immerse yourself in the industry. I still do it every day.”

LaSalle College Vancouver facilitates this immersion, offering an unparalleled blend of academic rigor and real-world experience, guided by a faculty of passionate industry veterans.

INGREDIENTS FOR SUCCESS

College Vancouver stands as a beacon for those dreaming of a future where they can “cook what’s new, eat what’s best and inspire what’s next,” Couvelier says.

Whether you envision yourself as the next celebrated chef, a pioneer in pastry arts or a culinary entrepreneur, LaSalle College Vancouver is where your journey begins.

Start learning today at LaSalle College Vancouver—a place where taste, innovation and community converge.

There has never been a more opportune time to embark on a culinary career. LaSalle

BEST ITALIAN (CASUAL)

★ MAGARI BY OCA

1260 Commercial Dr. magari-o.ca

Magari by Oca may have a new name, but the passion here is just as strong as it was under the previous Oca Pastificio moniker. “This is a restaurant firing on all cylinders,” raved one Restaurant Awards judge. “A perfect blend of technique, focus and heart.” Lines form hours before opening every afternoon to get in for a plate of some of the best-constructed pasta in Western Canada—will this gold medal make it even harder to get a table? Caffè La Tana is just down the street and is our silver medal winner, but that’s not to say a meal here is a consolation prize: the charming, wood-and-tile room offers destination dining, day and night, with crispy arancini, whisper-thin beef carpaccio and perfectly prepared handmade pasta dishes. It’s always a good time at La Tana’s sister restaurant, Savio Volpe (bronze), where the experience impressed judges just as much as dishes like the tangy bagna cauda or the cult-fave roast chicken. “The service and ambiance really complete the whole package,” noted one. Pasta lovers will find more top-tier Italian options at honourable mentions Autostrada and Ask for Luigi .

★ Caffè La Tana 635 Commercial Dr., caffelatana.ca

★ Savio Volpe 615 Kingsway, saviovolpe.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Autostrada 4811 Main St. and 1481 Continental St., autostradahospitality.ca

Ask for Luigi 305 Alexander St., askforluigi.com

ANCORA 1600 Howe St. ancoradining.com

Perched right on the False Creek seawall, Ancora’s patio offers a serene seaside escape. With views that stretch over the water, it’s the spot where the city’s breathtaking panorama meets some serious culinary excellence; where gentle breezes accompany indulgence in Peruvian-Japanese creations, like a sublime hamachi carpaccio or succulent sablefish. The Ancora Glacier platter teems with oceanic treasures: freshly shucked oysters, ceviche mixto, poached prawns, an assortment of sashimi, tuna tartare, Dungeness crab causa and escabeche mussels. It’s an experience that lets you savour the ocean’s bounty as you gaze out at its vastness, fantasizing about buying a sailboat despite never having set foot in one. Such is the intoxicating allure of the patio.

LEILA KWOK

★ CIOPPINO’S

1133 Hamilton St. cioppinosyaletown.com

BEST AFRICAN & CARIBBEAN BEST ITALIAN (UPSCALE)

It’s been a few years since we’ve divided Italian into “upscale” and “casual,” but with so much competition on the scene these days, we’re glad for the chance to hand out double the accolades. Because no matter who the hot young thing in town might be this year, gold winner Cioppino’s deserves your attention forever and always. “Chef Pino nails the essence of fine Italian cuisine with fresh, high-quality ingredients and precise cooking techniques,” said one judge. For 20-plus years, Pino Posteraro has been creating ethereal wonders like a pappardelle with slowbraised veal cheeks and wild mushrooms, setting the bar for the up-and-comers chasing after him. L’Ufficio (silver) is similarly committed to authenticity and craftsmanship—one judge called it “hands down, the most authentic Italian restaurant in town,” thanks to chef Adam Pegg’s ongoing commitment to rural Italian cooking. (The solid, eclectic Italian wine list doesn’t hurt, either.) With its touristy location and long tenure, it’s easy to take CinCin (bronze) for granted, but chef Andrew Richardson’s mastery with the wood grill continues to amaze—the whole branzino is a standout. Honourable mentions Acquafarina and Lupo both serve up an inviting ambiance and delicious dishes.

★ L’Ufficio 3687 W 4th Ave., laquercia.ca/lufficio

★ CinCin 1154 Robson St., cincin.net

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Acquafarina 425 W Georgia St., acquafarina.com

Lupo 869 Hamilton St., luporestaurant.ca

★ ARIKE 1725 Davie St. arikerestaurant.com

Chef Sam Olayinka is back on top: the West End’s Arike takes gold this year. Olayinka’s $80 seasonal tasting menu captured our judges’ hearts not just for its bold yet balanced flavours (think curried yam ragout, duck confit with smoked guanciale and bison ribeye laced with peanut sauce) but also for its value (“I can’t think of another meal that comes remotely close in Vancouver in terms of value for dollar,” said one judge). Silver goes to Kilimanjaro Snack House for stellar East African and Indian dishes—find superbly spiced goat biryani, creamy coconut chicken kuku paka curry and mouth-watering mogo (casava fries) here. Fassil is our bronze winner: judges loved the Ethiopian restaurant’s five-in-one veggie combo and the oh-so-spongy injera (flatbread) that’s served with everything. Simba’s Grill and Harambe Ethiopian each earn an honourable mention for their delicious, down-to-earth eats.

★ Kilimanjaro Snack House 789 Kingsway, kilisnackhouse.com

★ Fassil 5–736 E Broadway, fassil.ca

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Simba’s Grill 201–3300 Boundary Rd., simbasgrill.com

Harambe Ethiopian 2149 Commercial Dr., @harambe_restaurant

BEST PRIVATE ROOM

★ HOMER ST. CAFE

898 Homer St. homerstreetcafebar.com

There’s something about being tucked away while still getting to witness the hubbub of the restaurant itself, and Homer St. Cafe’s playfully named “cockpit” (its walls are lined with rooster artwork) has it all. The moody room of herringbone floors and leather banquettes is perched above the main dining room, with mullioned windows positioned so guests can take in the action while keeping the hot goss of the evening all to themselves.

BEST MIDDLE EASTERN

★ DELARA 2272 W 4th Ave. delararestaurant.ca

Delara’s “breath of fresh air” in Kits takes home gold this year thanks to chef-owner Bardia Ilbeiggi’s modern take on Persian food. Go for the crispy saffron tahdeeg with spoon-tender grilled beef ghalieh: it’s stewed in a rich sauce of caramelized onions, herbs and tamarind. But save room for the “revelatory” chocolate halva cake, as one judge described it: “The sesame caramel lives in my dreams.” Zarak earns silver for its elevated take on mom’s recipes, an exciting and creative cocktail list (for kids, too: the zero-proof Bamyan comes with a submerged Melona mango popsicle) and its embodiment of Middle Eastern hospitality. The Main Street spot’s buttermilk fried chicken is a favourite for good reason: a crunchy cumin-laced crust and soulful Afghan barbecue sauce packs heat, coolly tempered with yogurt sauce. Taking bronze is newcomer Tamam , a love letter to Palestinian cuisine on Hastings Street. Start with unctuous hummus finished with a healthy drizzle of olive oil, then opt for the gorgeous half-chicken stuffed with rice, beef, spices and herbs and glazed with a slick of pomegranate sauce. Moltaqa earns an honourable mention for traditional, hearty dishes like their house-made pastillas.

★ Zarak 2102 Main St., zarakvancouver.com

HONOURABLE MENTION

Moltaqa 1002 Mainland St., moltaqarestaurant.ca

★ Tamam 2616 E Hastings St., tamam.ca

EVA MCMILLAN

BEST CHAIN

★ NOOK

Various locations nookrestaurants.com

* 2023 Gold winner

Cactus Club Cafe moved into the Hall of Fame this year, and was not judged in the Best Chain category

Nook grabs gold for the first time in this category with its personable ambiance and classic (or classic-with-a-twist) takes on pizzas and pastas. “This is the class of the category—each spot has personality and feels like there’s an actual chef making actual decisions to serve the customer,” said one judge. That’s as clear from the daily location-specific specials as it is from the standards: chicken liver crostini topped with port-glazed onions, for example, or a puttanesca that’s the perfect balance of salt, sweet and heat—a dish that made a fan of Jamie Dornan the last time he filmed in Vancouver. Taking silver, Tacofino hasn’t strayed too far from its original beachside food truck in Tofino, and that’s a good thing. Taco selections vary by location, but Yaletown’s lemongrass chicken burrito—stuffed with crispy garlic rice, pickled veg and tamarind mayo—is middle-of-the-night-craving worthy, while Ocho’s lamb birria quesadilla is made for the more adventurous eaters. “Maybe I eat here too often?” joked one judge. And Joey takes bronze for a reliable great night out over share plates of roasted corn guacamole and smoky paloma cocktails. Honourable mentions go to Maruhachi Ra-men, where noodle-lovers line up for perfectly balanced broth and soy eggs, and Nuba, the city’s longtime (and long-popular) Lebanese mainstay.

★ Tacofino Various locations, tacofino.com

★ Joey Various locations, joeyrestaurants.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Maruhachi Ra-men Various locations, maruhachi.ca

Nuba Various locations, nuba.ca

BEST THAI

★ MAENAM

1938 W 4th Ave. maenam.ca

Chef Angus An has created a mini-empire of restaurants throughout the Lower Mainland (Longtail Kitchen, Fat Mao Noodles, Mekong) but his original, Maenam, never suffers for it. Maenam handily takes home gold again this year for bold dishes like sablefish curry with makrut lime and salty dried shrimp, or a gorgeous “snack” of miang-stuffed mussel wrapped in a betel leaf and topped with peanut and toasted coconut. Chef An is “eloquently and artfully balancing complex and layered flavours,” noted one judge. In silver, Song by Kin Kao is “firing on all cylinders, really at its apex,” said another judge. “A place to recommend to anyone.” The fan-favourite pomelo salad is a fresh start to the meal, while the hearty duck confit curry sees a marinated, 18-hour-sousvide, deep-fried Two Rivers Meats duck leg served on a rich red curry with Thai eggplants and potatoes. Richmond’s Baan Lao nabs bronze for flawless service and outstanding execution of high-end Thai dishes like pu pat phong kari, a yellow curried Alaskan king crab in a delicately crispy pastry. Longtail Kitchen’s elevated approach to counter-served fare and Zab Bite’s dedication to North-style Thai cuisine each win honourable mentions in this category.

★ Song by Kin Kao 317 E Broadway, songyvr.com

★ Baan Lao 4100 Bayview St., Richmond, baanlao.ca

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Longtail Kitchen 116–810 Quayside Dr., New West, longtailkitchen.com

Zab Bite 4197 Fraser St., zabbite.ca

ALAINA MICHELLE

SEAFOOD

★ BOULEVARD

845 Burrard St. boulevardvancouver.ca

Our city’s oceanside location sets high expectations for its seafood scene, and these restaurants more than meet them. Boulevard takes gold, captivating our judges with its stunning seafood tower and perfect charcoal-grilled sablefish. Chef Roger Ma’s virtuosity shines in dishes such as the seared scallops with red curry and roast lingcod with chorizo-stuffed peppers, both praised by our judges for their flawless flavours. Silver is clinched by the iconic Blue Water Cafe, where chef Frank Pabst’s enduring expertise is evident. One judge enthused, “The cook on my swordfish was perfect,” underscoring the culinary precision that defines the venue. Service here is unparalleled, with patrons noting a near-psychic attention to detail. Bronze goes to the Chinese cuisine-focused Mott 32; while not exclusively seafood, the glamourous room still dazzles with its offerings from the deep, earning it high marks and a place on the podium. Honourable mentions are shared by The Fish Man for its “raucous and fun”

Sichuan and Cantonese-style seafood and the brand-new Bravo, whose ambitious dry-aged fish program and vibrant cooking add a dash of daring to Vancouver’s seafood scene.

★ Blue Water Cafe 1095 Hamilton St., bluewatercafe.net

★ Mott 32 1161 W Georgia St., mott32.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

The Fish Man 1170–8391 Alexandra Rd., Richmond, fishmanrestaurant.com

Bravo 4194 Fraser St., bravovancouver.com

BEST FRENCH

★ ST. LAWRENCE

269 Powell St. stlawrencerestaurant.com

It’s a four-peat for St. Lawrence: chef J-C Poirier’s ode to his home province holds tight to the top position in this incredibly competitive category. Quebecois classics are showcased with a very modern flair (for example, a perfectly executed tarte Tatin featuring local endive with a rutabaga reduction, or a consommé made of roasted potato skins).

“J-C Poirier is so accomplished a chef, you’ll be hard-pressed to find fault with anything he creates,” raved one judge. Silver goes to Gastown’s L’Abattoir, where our 2024 Chef of the Year (page 32) Lee Cooper shines in his seasonal, always-fresh take on the classics—think Dungeness crab salad that’s bright with green apple and ginger. “So easy-going, it strikes a Vancouver chord,” said another judge, “but when it comes to food, it’s all seriousness and discipline.” Stalwart Le Crocodile takes bronze for the timeless and consistent creations of chef Michel Jacob’s last season behind the stove before he hands the reins to chef Rob Feenie. Downtown star Tableau and relative newcomer (but instant East Side fave) Collective Goods collect well-earned honourable mentions.

★ L’Abattoir 217 Carrall St., labattoir.ca ★ Le Crocodile 100–909 Burrard St., lecrocodilerestaurant.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Collective Goods 3532 Commercial St., collectivegoods.ca Tableau Bar and Bistro 1181 Melville St., tableaubarbistro.com

LEILA KWOK

BEST INDIAN

★

DHALIWAL’S LOUNGE

112–7938 128 St., Surrey

dhaliwalslounge.com

The Best Indian lineup for 2024 is a suburban smorgasbord. First, there’s gold winner Dhaliwal’s Lounge, a restaurant that maintains night-club vibes despite its location in a Surrey industrial mall. Our judges loved the friendly, inventive dishes—like the gamey goat razala curry and tender avadhi sheekh kabab—and the whimsical drinks (the Daddy Double Dose menu descriptor is “No one stops the dads today from having beer and rum together, but no dancing on the floor after”). Silver goes to another Surrey mainstay, Sachdeva Sweets . “They do all the staples well, but I think where they really shine is in the vegetarian dishes like matar paneer and the street food like puri chaat,” said one judge. Bronze winner Tasty Indian Bistro has both Delta and Yaletown locations, so you don’t need to leave city limits for a lamb vindaloo that one judge called “one of the best I’ve had—with sharp pungency and bright heat, it’s alive and immediate, but deeply rounded as well.” The newly expanded Sula and Indian icon Vij’s each snag an honourable mention.

★ Sachdeva Sweets 118–7500 120 St., Surrey, sachdevasweets.com

★ Tasty Indian Bistro 1261 Hamilton St. and 8295 120th St., Delta, tastybistro.ca

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Sula Multiple locations, sulaindianrestaurant.com

Vij’s 3106 Cambie St., vijs.ca

BEST ANY OCCASION

★ NIGHTINGALE

1017 W Hastings St. hawknightingale.com

It’s the sort of restaurant that you find yourself recommending to out-of-towners, no matter who they are: business colleagues looking for a downtown dinner spot, visiting family celebrating a birthday, a foodie friend sprinting through on a layover. But Nightingale is a local fave for the same criteria. It’s central, comfortable, modern and pretty... and (most importantly) consistently delicious, with a menu that spans the contemporary West Coast gamut from Salt Spring Island mussels to roasted pork belly with gochujang glaze (though the next-level wood-fired pizza is the big crowd-pleaser here).

LEILA KWOK

BEST JAPANESE (UPSCALE)

★ OKEYA KYUJIRO

1038 Mainland St. okeya.ca

“Magical.” “Immersive.” “Transported and transformed.” When you see these words on the Restaurant Awards scorecard, you’ve found a winner. Such was the case with the reviews for gold winner Okeya Kyujiro, where the omakase experience left our judges raving. The theatrical, over-the-top service is worth the visit in and of itself—recalling elements of kabuki—but dishes like freshly grilled unagi or delicately crosshatched toro are what really steal the show. Nigiri is silver winner Masayoshi ’s specialty, each exquisite creation a jewel of a bite. “So many wow moments,” said one judge. “The beautiful, pristine fish, exceptional knife skills, impeccable plating—this is high art.” Bronze winner Tetsu Sushi Bar offers an excellent omakase, too; if you’re lucky enough to snag one of the 12 seats in the restaurant, you’ll be treated to chef Satoshi Makise’s quiet elegance and superb craftmanship. Source artfully executed, upscale Japanese cuisine at honourable mentions Sushi Jin and Sushi Mahana.

★ Masayoshi 4376 Fraser St., masayoshi.ca

★ Tetsu Sushi Bar 775 Denman St., tetsusushibar.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Sushi Jin 750 Nelson St., sushijinvancouver.ca

Sushi Mahana 175 3rd St. W, North Vancouver, sushimahana.com

BEST JAPANESE (CASUAL)

★ KISHIMOTO

2054 Commercial Dr. kishimotorestaurant.com

There’s an abundance of cheap-and-cheerful sushi spots on the Drive, but gold winner Kishimoto is where you go when you want stunning Japanese dishes in a comfortable, neighbourhood-y environment. Chef Akira Kishimoto embraces local ingredients through an uncompromising Japanese lens: you’ll find plates of seasonal tempuras, perfectly grilled succulent B.C. sablefish collar and binchotan charcoal-grilled mushrooms served beautifully but without pretension. Over in Burnaby, find silver medallist Stem Japanese Eatery to be committed just as passionately to a sense of place. Comfort food executed elegantly (see: the staub gohan, a seasonal spectacular served in a piping-hot casserole dish) is the name of the game here. Whatever is offered in croquette form—order it. Sushi Hil has a more narrow focus (sushi and sashimi), but the limitations of the menu only highlight chef Hilary Nguy’s expert execution and commitment to sophisticated simplicity. Dosanko and Miku are our honourable mentions: Dosanko is an ode to Japanese home cooking, while Miku has continued to hone its aburi game.

★ Stem Japanese Eatery 5205 Rumble St., Burnaby, stemjapanese.ca

★ Sushi Hil 3330 Main St., sushihil.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Dosanko 100–566 Powell St., dosankorestaurant.ca

Miku 70–200 Granville St., mikurestaurant.com

BEST WEST COAST

ANNALENA

1809 W 1st Ave.

annalena.ca

Where to start with gold winner AnnaLena? It could be to laud its front of house, which, as one judge noted, “is practically unrivalled in Vancouver. You’d best believe FOH knows you and when you were last in, and, regardless, wants everyone to have a special time.” The team believes in everything that’s coming out from chef Mike Robbins’s kitchen, and for good reason: innovative and highly personalized dishes range from hickory-smoked tuna with ponzu to the ever-evolving seafood and broth with torn bread—simple in presentation, but beloved. (And we dare you to not be delighted by the shoe “dishes” Robbins had created for the petit four desserts.) In the silver spot, Boulevard ’s seafood-forward take on West Coast cuisine is rarely matched. “The skill level here continues to be easily among the best in town,” said one judge, “and when they highlight PNW ingredients, it’s superlative.” A hamachi crudo, for example, is bright and light with spring onion, cucumber and chili aioli in a chilled soy broth, while the charcoal-grilled sablefish is glazed in soy-sake and served alongside local bull kelp and roasted king oyster mushrooms. In bronze is Botanist in the Fairmont Pacific Rim: an ode to fresh, modern ingredients within a stylish interior. The judges applauded the team’s attention to the little things: “The details here shine, whether it’s the kitchen’s creativity in bringing out a vegan dish to go alongside the table’s non-vegan items, or the pastry chef’s whimsy and solid execution of fantastic seasonal desserts.” You can’t go wrong with hand-cut tagliatelle and foraged mushrooms, or a romaine-heart Caesar salad, artfully drenched in a white anchovy and Meyer lemon dressing. Burdock and Co and Bravo each receive honourable mention nods for their welcoming atmospheres and fare that celebrates the coast.

★ Boulevard 845 Burrard St., boulevardvancouver.ca

★ Botanist 1038 Canada Pl., botanistrestaurant.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Burdock and Co 2702 Main St., burdockandco.com

Bravo 4194 Fraser St., bravovancouver.com

BEST STEAKHOUSE

★ ELISA 1109 Hamilton St. elisasteak.com

Taking gold this year is Elisa , a beacon of meaty accomplishment that’s a cut above the rest. “Every dish here is excellent; it would be hard to order incorrectly,” said one judge, emphasizing not just the mastery over meats but also the artistry in every accompaniment. From the benchmark dry-aged ribeye to the complimentary fresh bread, Elisa has transformed dining into a high-steaks event. Hy’s secures silver with its legendary offerings. “The ribeye here is just fantastic,” stated a judge, while another reminisced over the “cheesy bread and onion rings” that bring a touch of nostalgia to the table. It’s a place where the past and present merge, offering old-school steakhouse favourites with a consistency that’s hard to beat. Bronze goes to Gotham , where the steaks are seared with dependable (delicious) expertise. And let’s not forget our honourable mentions: The Victor and C-Prime, each bringing something unique to the table. The Victor surprises with great sushi in a steakhouse setting, while C-Prime revels in Italian flair.

★ Hy’s 637 Hornby St., hyssteakhouse.com

★ Gotham 615 Seymour St., gothamsteakhouse.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

The Victor 39 Smithe St., parqvancouver.com

C-Prime 1015 Burrard St., cprime.ca

LEILA KWOK

BEST KOREAN

★ JEJUDO

4501 North Rd., Burnaby jejudo.ca

This may be Jejudo’s very first year on our list, but this cozy Korean spot didn’t need beginner’s luck to earn its gold: it was the raw marinated crab, spicy braised monkfish, beef tartar stone pot rice and high-quality Korean BBQ dishes that impressed our judges. Lunch hero Zoomak (the 12-course tasting tray almost always sells out) gets silver: the spicy-sweet KFC, indulgent Korean pancake and fresh and fun lettuce wraps consistently delight. Bronze goes to Hanwoori for delicious banchan, kimchi stew and ggorigom tang (oxtail and bone marrow broth with noodles); “Make sure to have a group big enough for both BBQing and hot pot at the same time,” advised one judge. Shiny and soulful Jess’ in Kerrisdale and bibimbap star Sura on Robson each get the honourable mention nod.

★ Zoomak 52 Alexander St., zoomakyvr.com

★ Hanwoori 5740 Imperial St., Burnaby, hanwoori.ca

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Jess’ 2179 W 41st Ave., jessrestaurant.ca

Sura 1518 Robson St., surakoreancuisine.com

MEET THE

JUDGES

Culinary industry veterans, esteemed restaurant critics and diehard foodies make up our 2024 Restaurant Awards judging panel.

★ Hussain Askari grew up in the UAE, studied wine in Australia and has been in the Vancouver wine trade for the past decade. He is the director of operations for Wine Vault.

★ Ryan Benn is the CEO and group publisher of Alive Publishing Group Inc. and Canada Wide Media Limited.

★ Rob Feenie is an internationally acclaimed and award-winning chef. He has won Iron Chef four times and has authored several cookbooks. His previous restaurants, Lumière and Feenie’s, received critical acclaim, including the prestigious Relais Gourmands designation.

★ Gail Johnson is a veteran journalist and food writer and cofounder of Stir, a site dedicated to local arts and culture, including the culinary arts.

★ Lee Man is a founding judge for the Chinese Restaurant Awards and a longtime contributor to Vancouver magazine, Montecristo and other publications.

★ Brendon Mathews is a judge of the Chinese Restaurant Awards and a freelance food writer with expertise in Chinese cuisine.

★ Neal McLennan is Vancouver magazine’s wine and spirits editor, and a freelance food and travel writer for the Globe and Mail, Western Living and other publications.

★ Franco Michienzi is an awardwinning wine director (he earned the title of Sommelier of the Year in the 2023 Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards), a hospitality veteran and a lover of all things food.

★ Mijune Pak is an international food and travel personality, host for Michelin Guide Vancouver and resident judge on Top Chef

Canada and Iron Chef. She also judges Air Canada’s enRoute Best New Restaurants, Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants, Taste Canada Awards and many others.

★ Sylvia Potvin is the owner of Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts, Vancouver’s premier professional culinary education training centre.

★ Maude Renaud-Brisson is a Vancouver-based sommelier and consultant. She is also an educator, event host and wine club curator, and is the founder of APÉROmode and co-founder of This Is Wine School.

★ Rasoul Salehi is a wineindustry veteran and a managing partner at LaStella and Le Vieux Pin Winery. He has a passion for the study of all things gastronomy and culinary arts, as well as for home cooking, sports, incense making, perfumery and plant propagation.

★ Mia Stainsby is the longtime restaurant critic at the Vancouver Sun and Province newspapers.

★ Jacob Sweetapple is an award-winning international bartender, spirit education specialist and managing partner at Notion Concepts, a hospitality and events agency working with brands from around the world.

★ Lindsay William-Ross is the editor-in-chief of Vancouver Is Awesome and the lifelong foodie behind V.I.A.’s “Forking Awesome” newsletter and TikTok. She was previously the food editor of Daily Hive, senior editor of Vancity Buzz and editor-in-chief of LAist.com

★ Jenice Yu is the founder and CEO of Fresh Ideas Start Here. She is a seafood-industry veteran, a board member of Les Dames D’escoffier and a judge of the Chinese Restaurant Awards.

LEILA KWOK

BLUE SKIES OPEN DOORS

Plan Your BC Wine Country Adventure Today.

THE HALL OF FAME

CACTUS CLUB CAFE

Casual-fine restaurant chain cactusclubcafe.com

We get it: it’s a little odd to see the presenting sponsor of our new Hall of Fame inducted into said Hall of Fame, but Cactus is undeniably the stuff of legends around here. And as the Cactus team is bowing out of the Chains category after years and years of golds, it seems only right to honour a class-act move with a spot on the inaugural HOF list. It’s a beloved crowd-pleaser, a dependable happy hour spot and a go-to for both long-adored classics (we see you, butternut squash ravioli) and fresh, bold dishes (truffle parmesan chicken with gnocchi, please). And despite having 23 locations in Vancouver alone and sweeping our Best Chain Restaurant award countless times, Cactus Club Cafe continuously challenges what a chain can be—through partnerships with charities, mentorship programs and, of course, supporting your friendly neighbourhood city magazine. We’re pleased to induct this 36-year-old local icon into our Restaurant Awards Hall of Fame: join the club, Cactus.

★ BRADNER FARMS

Regenerative and organic farm bradnerfarms.com

Old MacDonald’s got nothing on Bradner Farms: this fourth-generation, Abbotsford-based family business has been working the land and raising livestock since 1912, when they carted their fresh milk jugs around town via horse. That said, Bradner’s farming practices have decidedly modern values when it comes to prioritizing environmentalism: they began the first certified organic feed mill in the province, ensuring that their animals are raised without antibiotics or added hormones, and they supply feed to other local farms, too. Bradner is approved by the Global Animal Partnership and practices regenerative farming, meaning they’re focused on nurturing the environment instead of depleting it. It’s an operation that Vancouver restaurants are proud to align themselves with: you can find Bradner Farms beef and poultry on menus at Burdock and Co, Collective Goods, Say Mercy and Hawksworth.

He’s been walking the walk when it comes to earthconscious culinary practices for over two decades, bringing responsible aquaculture to the table long before it was cool.

★ ROBERT CLARK

Chief culinary officer, Organic Ocean, and co-founder, Aramé Culinary Consulting organicocean.com, arameculinary.com

To say Rob Clark has made a splash in the sustainable seafood industry would be a massive understatement (but a pretty good pun). Beyond his executive chefing at the beloved C Restaurant, Raincity Grill and Nu, his resumé includes co-founding the Ocean Wise sustainable seafood program, co-owning the Fish Counter and, currently, serving as chief culinary officer of Organic Ocean. He’s been walking the walk when it comes to earth-conscious culinary practices for over two decades, bringing responsible aquaculture to the table long before it was cool. For this work, he’s been inducted into the BC Restaurant Hall of Fame, named a SeaWeb Sustainable Seafood Champion and even received the Order of Canada. Time to reel it in, right? Wrong. Earlier this year, Clark and chef Julian Bond launched Aramé, a new sustainable culinary consultancy aiming to help growing hospitality businesses in menu development, brand strategy and other essential bits of the biz.

★ Hall of Fame

honouree Robert Clark has been a champion of sustainable seafood for decades.

BARTENDER OF THE YEAR

★ MAX CURZON-PRICE Bar manager, Suyo

There’s creativity, and then there’s creation. The former allows a bartender to make a unique cocktail for an established bar program. The latter sees said bartender—in this case, Max Curzon-Price —charged with crafting an entire bar menu to elevate an already ambitious new opening in Vancouver’s tough restaurant scene. And the kicker: his inspiration will have to come from a country that 99 percent of the world equates with a single drink, the pisco sour.

It’s a challenge that would be daunting for even a seasoned pro, but the UK-born Curzon-Price handled the task of creating Suyo’s award-winning drinks menu with the confidence of someone well beyond his youthful 31 years. It helped that he had inspired assistance from fellow Suyo barman Andrew Kong. And it also helped that, prior to Suyo, he honed his craft at Botanist, home of two nowfellow BOTY winners and one of the most dialled-in bars in North America. There’s also his history of killing it at cocktail competitions (most notably representing Canada at Bacardi Legacy in 2021); he thrives under pressure. According to Curzon-Price, he and Kong rigorously analyze the aroma, structure, palate and finish of every drink—"Once we honestly feel that it's the best cocktail we can provide, it'll make its way on to the list.”

Ultimately, it comes down to taking all those elements—plus a vision that translates the varied culinary and cultural themes that are Peru—and distilling it all down into 14 distinct drinks (his version of the pisco sour is there, of course), served with precision and a smile by this year’s Bartender of the Year.

BEST AFTER-WORK HANG

★ JOEY

Multiple locations joeyrestaurants.com

The post-work hangout is a delicate dance, indeed—it should be comfortable but not too casual, exciting but approachable, and, of course, have a menu that covers vegan and gluten-free options for your colleagues’ charmingly specific dietary restrictions. Joey does it all, from sushi to burgers to curry (might as well get a few truffle fries for the table, too). Sneak out of the office a bit early and you’ll catch the happy hour menu; work hard, $7 bellini hard.

SOMMELIER OF THE YEAR

★ KRISTI LINNEBOE Wine director, Banda Volpi Group

The dining public likes to think of sommeliers as artists, landing in a restaurant, treating the wine list as a blank canvas and ready to bestow their grand vision of imbibing upon the assembled masses. And while there’s no doubt that inspiration plays a key role in the modern somm’s job, the reality is that crafting a wine program is more akin to being a vinous CEO than a lone genius. There’s existing stock you have to work with, there are touch points and price points that the patrons expect, there’s figuring out how to work within our archaic liquor laws and there’s a constant need to help the restaurant’s bottom line—and in every one of these tasks, ego is an impediment.

It’s that balance of passion with practicality that makes our 2024 Sommelier of the Year, Kristi Linneboe, a true pro. Given her tenures at Maenam, L’Abattoir, Como, Elisa and now the Banda Volpi group (Savio Volpe, Pepino’s, Caffè La Tana, Elio Volpe), it’s unlikely there’s a local contemporary somm whose decisions have impacted more patrons than Linneboe. If you’ve switched from sauvignon blanc to Lugano—or have even heard of the grape pelaverga—it’s likely because of her, whether you know it or not. Outside of her restaurant work, Linneboe finds time to recharge her batteries... working harvests at wineries in Oregon, the Jura and the Okanagan. And that she accomplishes all this with a humbleness that belies her deep knowledge is the real edge that makes her 2024’s Sommelier of the Year.

★

★ Despite pouring her heart and soul into every wine list, Sommelier of the Year Kristi Linneboe is all about serving the guests. “The wine list isn’t for me, at the end of the day,” she says.

Suyo bar manager Max Curzon-Price received Michelin’s Exceptional Cocktails Award in 2023.

PREMIER CREW

Someone’s cooking here... and not just in the kitchen. Let’s raise a glass to the excellent servers, incredible managers and other outstanding front-ofhouse heroes who make our hospitality industry so award-worthy.

*not pictured

★ SHIRLEY FONG Server, White Spot

★ ASHWAN LUCKHEENARAIN

Restaurant manager and wine buyer, Cómo Tapería

“Ashwan is a beam of light: the kind of hospitality pro who takes charge of the evening, fills your table with better dishes and drinks than you would have been able to pick yourself and does it all with a confident warmth.”

—judge Maude Renaud-Brisson

★ DANIEL MAGUIRE Server, Kissa Tanto

“Fun, charming and professional! He’s part of the Kissa Tanto family and makes you feel welcome and cared for whether he’s behind the bar making drinks or working the floor. Genuine to customers and passionate about the food they serve, he’s part of the reason I come and he makes the dining experience that much more enjoyable.”

—judge Mijune Pak

—judge Mia Stainsby

“There are unsung servers making a difference in ordinary, everyday restaurants and Shirley is one of them. Consistently cheerful, welcoming and sincere, she makes guests feel special, chats intelligently on many topics and does her job better than many who work in high-profile restaurants.”

★ CHRIS HASHIMOTO Server, Botanist

“Chris is one the best in the city. He is attentive and very accommodating to the guests at Botanist—the perfect host.” —judge Rob Feenie

★ ANTOINE DUMONT

Owner and general manager, Magari by Oca

“Antione conducts the compact room at Magari like a culinary André Previn—every plate, glass, customer and server is exactly where it needs to be to make the meal an exercise in casual perfection.” —judge Neal McLennan

★ HANNAH ACTON Server, Burdock and Co

“Hannah epitomizes front-ofhouse excellence, seamlessly blending warmth and professionalism. With a keen eye for detail, she orchestrates a dining experience that feels both intimate and exceptional, leaving guests delighted and well-cared for.” —judge Sylvia Potvin

The City of Burnaby features some extraordinary venues with catering packages that are perfect for meetings, corporate events, workshops, conferences, staff parties and weddings. With many locations to choose from and a range of packages to fit your budget, let us make your event one to remember.

Mintara atop Burnaby Mountain

READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS

Who are you to judge? That’s not a rhetorical question: after decades of Restaurant Awards results being solely up to our panel of pro judges, we reintroduced the Readers’ Choice division of the Restaurant Awards this year. Seven thousand nominations, 45,000 votes and many, many readers’ opinions later, the results are in. We’re honoured to serve up the 2024 Readers’ Choice winners—chosen for the people, by the people.

BEST DINING

BEST BAR/WINE BAR

★ The Keefer Bar

135 Keefer St. thekeeferbar.com

Voters praised this Chinatown bar’s inventive cocktails (the Tokyo Drift crafted with Japanese whisky, ambre vermouth and kumquat gomme is a winner) and irresistible happy hour (halfpriced dim sum—yes please).

BEST COFFEE SHOP

★ Nemesis Coffee

Multiple locations nemesis.coffee

Despite its antagonistic name, this coffee shop has found a friend in Vancouverites via rich espresso, flaky croissants and a surprisingly robust (and affordable) brunch menu.

BEST BREWERY

★ 33 Acres

15 W 8th Ave. 33acresbrewing.com

Is it really summer in Vancouver before you’ve had your first sip of 33 Acres of Sunshine (a fruity, citrusy French blanchè) between rounds of Spikeball at the beach? Scientists say no.

BEST FOOD TRUCK

★ Japadog

Multiple locations japadog.com

Thanks to next-level hot dogs topped with Japanese delights like nori, teriyaki sauce, mayo and yakisoba, Japadog has reached legendary status in Vancouver’s street food scene.

BEST

BRUNCH

★ Café Medina and Maxine’s 780 Richards St., 1325 Burrard St. medinacafe.com, maxinescafebar.com

Yes, these two brunch queens received the exact same number of votes, proving there’s no wrong choice: between Medina’s Liège-style waffles and Maxine’s indulgent Dutch baby, you’re starting the day with a win.

BEST VEGAN/VEGETARIAN

★ The Acorn 3995 Main St. theacornrestaurant.ca

Plant-forwardness is an asset, not a limit, at the Acorn—the menu sings with dishes like smoked mushroom pâté, rainbow carrots in red curry and beer-battered halloumi—and voters raved about the staff’s neighbourly hospitality, too.

LORENZO IGNACIO

JUNO KIM

BEST DISHES

BEST BURGER

★ Between 2 Buns

105 E Pender St. between2bunsburgers.ca

Fans of the smash patty flock here for “consistently awesome” burgs—so ugly-delicious that they’re almost impossible to take a flattering photo of. But who cares when you’re biting into a flavour bomb of melty cheese, “shredduce” and B2B signature sauce?

BEST HOT POT

★ Happy Lamb Hot Pot 1788 W Broadway happylambhotpot.com

Is there anything that warms up a drizzly Vancouver day faster than hot pot? Happy Lamb is the go-to for its fresh ingredients and high-quality sliced beef, which simmer the night away pleasantly in rich and flavourful “house special” broth. All-you-can-eat options make for an indulgent night out.

BEST DIM SUM

★ Dynasty 108–777 W Broadway dynasty-restaurant.ca

Dynasty is the setting for so many specialoccasion dinners (we’re counting down the days to king crab season) but the iconic resto’s dim sum is proof that it starts the day off with a bang, too: the steamed crab and shrimp dumplings and deep-fried taro puffs with BBQ duck make for a perfect Sunday morning.

BEST PASTA

★ Ask for Luigi 305 Alexander St. askforluigi.com

Though it’s been nine years now since Ask for Luigi won our “Best New Restaurant” award, the cozy Railtown room continues to fire on all cylinders. As one voter said, “I find myself craving the pasta here. It’s handmade, it’s rustic, it’s thoughtful and it’s absolute perfection.”

BEST FRIED CHICKEN

★ Downlow Chicken Shack 905 Commercial Dr. dlchickenshack.ca

People line up and down the block for chef Doug Stephen’s fried chicken for a reason. The grain-fed, free-run meat is sourced from Two Rivers; the messy, crispy-tender handcrafted chicken sandos are made to order; and Wing Wednesdays are a weekly highlight.

BEST PIZZA

★ Via Tevere 1190 Victoria Dr. viateverepizzeria.com

Neapolitan pizza is the name of the game here, and there isn’t a bad slice to be had in the place. The margherita is proof of the artistry in simplicity; the Vesuvio is topped with both salame piccante and capicollo. Voters reported loving the wood-fired pizzas at Via Tevere more than pies they tried in Italy.

RICH WON

TANYA GOEHRING

BEST DISHES

BEST RAMEN

★ Ramen Danbo

Multiple locations ramendanbo.com

You’ll find Danbo’s Fukuoka-style ramen in Kits, the West End and Kerrisdale—and lines of super-fans, too. The noodles are always bouncy; the pork broth rich and fortifying. These are bowls to bowl you over.

BEST STEAK

★ Elisa

1109 Hamilton St. elisasteak.com

Elisa’s steaks are meticulously selected from local and global suppliers with proudly ethical farming practices—so you can feel good when your 40-day dry-aged ribeye or California-cut wagyu tenderloin drops onto the sizzling woodfired grill.

BEST SANDWICH

★ Meat and Bread

Multiple locations meatandbread.com

Voters called the porchetta sandwich—packed with crackling pork belly and zippy salsa verde—“the best in the city” and “the best sandwich I’ve ever had,” so you know this humble, hardworking chain (there are four Vancouver locations) is doing something right.

BEST SUSHI

★ Miku

70–200 Granville St. mikurestaurant.com

The sushi at Miku is a work of art. Sure, each piece of flame-kissed aburi oshi sushi or specialty roll or handpressed nigiri offering is plucked-from-the-ocean fresh, but it’s also always a feast for the eyes, lovingly presented like the treasure it is.

BEST SEAFOOD

★ Blue Water Cafe

1095 Hamilton St. bluewatercafe.net

Seafood is a competitive category in this town, but Blue Water has captured the people’s hearts with impeccable service and impeccable-er seafood towers—the three-tier Blue Water Cafe Tower features everything from salmon tartare to lobster to prawns to jellyfish salad, and is a trophy in and of itself.

BEST TACOS

★ Tacofino

Multiple locations tacofino.com

Tacofino brings a unique West Coast-inspired perspective to its multiple taco-and-burrito shops, offering fresh, flavourful fare like crispy chicken with buttermilk chili crema or sesame-glazed albacore tuna wrapped in soft, housemade shells. It may not be traditional, but it’s damn tasty.

ALLISON KUHL

LEILA KWOK

MARK YUEN

BEST OF THE NEIGHBOURHOODS

BEST CHINATOWN

★ Kissa Tanto

263 E Pender St. kissatanto.com

The name Kissa Tanto is an appealing marriage of Japanese and Italian (rough translation: House of Plenty), and so too is the wonderful menu at this jewel box of a room—time to tuck into pasta with wagyu ragu and Japanese curry.

BEST FRASERHOOD

★ Savio Volpe 615 Kingsway saviovolpe.com

The Ste Marie–designed space is at once warm and airy, its tables always packed with lively revellers, fuelled by Aperol spritzes and kingfish crudo, debating who gets the last meatball.

BEST COMMERCIAL DRIVE

★ Lunch Lady 1046 Commercial Dr. thelunchlady.com

You needn’t travel to Saigon for a taste of the Bourdain-approved soups of chef Nguyen Thi Thanh—the Vietnamese street-food queen collaborated with Vancouver restaurateur Michael Tran on taste-bud-popping dishes at this popular East Van spot.

BEST GASTOWN

★ Ask for Luigi 305 Alexander St. askforluigi.com

Ask for Luigi offers a taste of la dolce vita, with housemade pasta and an irresistible antipasti menu (yeah, we’re getting burrata for the table). Brunch is solid, too—where else can you indulge in tagliolini carbonara with a poached egg at 10 a.m.?

BEST DOWNTOWN

★ Elisa 1109 Hamilton St. elisasteak.com

The swanky room at Elisa makes for an impressive downtown dining experience. Flame-grilled cuts from around the world are the star of the menu here, but you’ll find sustainable seafood and thoughtful sides, too: dinosaur kale salad, anyone?

BEST HASTINGS-SUNRISE

★ Dachi

2297 E Hastings St. dachivancouver.com

Small plates and natural wine (and craft sake) by the glass make Dachi both a neighbourhood favourite and a worthy foodie destination. Here, a plate of tangy house pickles is presented with as much care as the tender seared pork loin.

SUE-LEE WRIGHT

HAKAN BURCUOGLU

LEILA KWOK

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BEST OF THE NEIGHBOURHOODS

BEST KERRISDALE

★ Bufala 5395 West Blvd. bufala.ca

A consistent contender in our Best Pizza category, it’s no surprise that Bufala has dazzled the Kerrisdale crowd with its fromscratch, blistered-to-perfection crust and toppings like pepperoni and honey.

BEST OLYMPIC VILLAGE

★ Ophelia

165 W 2nd Ave. opheliakitchen.ca

The pretty Olympic Village space (that wallpaper!) serves up casual Mexican fare— chicharron de ribeye in a corn tortilla; chipotlemarinated ling cod—with sophistication and precision.

BEST KITSILANO

★ AnnaLena 1809 W 1st Ave. annalena.ca

AnnaLena took home our 2024 Restaurant of the Year award, and chef Mike Robbins and team have been wooing diners for nearly a decade with a dazzlingly creative take on modern Canadian cuisine—pan-Asian, hyper-local—and impressive wine list.

BEST WEST END

★ Maxine’s 1325 Burrard St. maxinescafebar.com

Paris comes to the West End via Maxine’s charming bistro, one that delights from mid-morning brunch (go for the smoked salmon benny) to a nightcap on the twinkling patio (the punchy cherry gin sour is summer in a coupe glass).

BEST MOUNT PLEASANT

★ Anh and Chi 3388 Main St. anhandchi.com

The story is sweet—two siblings take their parents’ restaurant legacy and run with it—but the modern Vietnamese menu here is even sweeter. Try the crispy turmeric prawn cakes, chicken wings doused in chili fish sauce or tastes-like-love crab tomato noodle soup.

BEST YALETOWN

★ Homer St. Cafe 898 Homer St. homerstreetcafebar.com

The wood-fired chicken here is the main draw (“So tender! So moist!” exclaimed one voter), but the top-tier service and strong wine list help cement this cozy bistro as a Yaletown fave. Happy hour offers $2 off cocktails like the Elderflower Aviation, a dreamy purple concoction that’s as delicious as it is beautiful.

LEILA KWOK

ALLISON KUHL

NORA HAMADE

LEILA KWOK

LEILA KWOK

BEST OF THE NEIGHBOURHOODS

BEST NEIGHBOURHOOD WILDCARD

★ The Mackenzie Room 415 Powell St. themackenzieroom.com

The Mackenzie Room describes itself as a hidden gem. Yet Vancouverites found it all the same, lured by the ever-changing chalkboard menu of seasonally guided dishes, all with deliciously punny names (we’ll take the You’ve Got Quail).

BEST WHISTLER

★ Wild Blue

4005 Whistler Wy. wildbluerestaurant.com

The menu is a marriage of French, Italian and Pacific Northwest influences—you’ll find hamachi crudo (with ponzu gelee, natch) and fish soup provencal (bolstered by saffron and gruyère cheese) alongside house-made cavatelli.

BEST NORTH SHORE

★ Beach House

150 25th St., West Vancouver thebeachhouserestaurant.ca

Voters spent as much time praising the views and the atmosphere as the food at Beach House, but the seafood spot is no slouch in the menu department—order yuzu calamari, charred Spanish octopus and good ol’ fish and chips, made with Haida Gwaii halibut.

BEST VANCOUVER ISLAND

★ Wolf in the Fog

150 Fourth St., Tofino wolfinthefog.com

The warm, rustic room is the perfect place to land after a day on the Chesterman Beach waves for regionally inspired dishes like Pacific scallop gratin and slow-baked Tofino halibut.

BEST RICHMOND

★ Baan Lao 4100 Bayview St. baanlao.ca

The upscale signature multi-course tasting menus (like Celebrating the Bounty and Beauty of Thailand) are painstakingly executed and represent a journey into the mind (and home garden) of chef Nutcha Phanthoupheng.

BEST OKANAGAN

★ Row Fourteen

725 MacKenzie Rd., Cawston klippersorganics.com

In the 14th row of Klippers Organics’ apple orchard, you’ll find Row Fourteen, where produce, proteins and (duh) wine are as farm-to-table as it gets. Toast an evening well-spent with a glass of black plum basil Untangled cider.

KATIE CROSS NORA HAMADE

LEILA KWOK

SAY HELLO TO BARGREEN ELLINGSON, YOUR RESTAURANT’S PARTNER IN HOSPITALITY

One of North America’s largest multi-service restaurant supply companies specializes in full design, build, fabrication and distribution services.

BY JESSICA KIRBY

If there is a trick to maintaining wholesome, customer-focused service while experiencing exponential growth, Bargreen Ellingson has it mastered. Founded in 1960 with a team of five doing “a bit of everything” to serve the restaurant industry, Bargreen Ellingson has blossomed.

Today, it is one of the largest multi-service restaurant supply, design and fabrication companies in North America, serving 28,000 customers, with a focus in the Western United States and Canada. Every year, Bargreen Ellingson’s 750+ employees fulfill more than 500,000 orders from local businesses and a growing list of national chains and retailers, drawing from a robust inventory of 16,000 SKUs.

And despite this growth, the company has remained true to its original purpose: Serving those who serve others.

The simple but effective motto is foundational to long-standing partnerships with top manufacturers in the foodservice industry. Those partnerships, along with strategically placed warehouses and retail locations, mean most foodservice-based operations receive their orders, from placement to delivery, in less than 24 hours. Their truck fleet delivers up to six days a week, working with a network of trusted thirdparty carriers. “In BC, our four trucks are on the road throughout the week delivering from Whistler to Chilliwack to Vancouver Island,” says Jason Ocenas, general manager, Canada branch.

Indeed, these partnerships ensure reliable sourcing and supply of everything from glassware and china to disposables and kitchen equipment, not to mention janitorial

and sanitation supplies.

But don’t mistake the company as just a “pots and pans” retailer.

It also makes functionality and aesthetic dreams come true with complete design, build and furnishing services entrusted to quality architects, contractors and builders and its in-house team. At any given moment, Bargreen Ellingson has at least 1,000 designbuild projects on the go.

“We help you design and develop an operation that is both beautiful and functional—on time and within budget,” says Chad Allers, director of contract and design. “Our commercial designers and dedicated project managers understand the flow and throughput of a culinary operation and will blend the latest trends, products and solutions with your unique specifications.”

Of course, every service is carried out with the same care and attention that has driven the company for more than 60 years.

“Bargreen Ellingson has helped thousands of customers from every segment of the industry succeed in their ventures,” says David Ellingson, president. “We know

that loyalty is built on personal relationships, and we take special care to earn your trust and business.”

Kelly Gordon, partner, Extra Mile Hospitality in Vancouver, will vouch for that. “We successfully partnered with Bargreen Ellingson to provide our kitchen package, bar package, and operating supplies order for Romers Burger Bar opening in Lynn Valley,” she says. “Getting through a new location opening on time, on budget, and with great communication is the best you can ask for in an industry partner.”

@Bargreen-Ellingson

@bargreen_ellingson

@bargreenellingson

BY LEILA KWOK

PHOTO

Image by Josh Neufeld Photography

SCAN TO LEARN MORE

CANADA’S FIRST: PREMIER HAND ROLL BAR

Established in 2021, Hello Nori is Canada’s First Premier Hand Roll Bar.

Currently with three thriving restaurants, including the iconic Robson location, The Amazing Brentwood, and an R&D outlet in Expo Blvd’s Club Kitchen, Hello Nori continues making waves.

Hello Nori is just scratching the surface with a visionary goal of opening 100 stores worldwide.

Adding to its portfolio, 2024 will see the launch of an additional 4+ locations in prominent areas such as Richmond Centre, Park Royal, and two coveted districts in Toronto.

Lead by the vision of Corporate Chef, Jay Pugong, and Director of Restaurant Operations, Isaac Olivier, Hello Nori offers the highest quality dining experience, blending quality and simplicity with an ambiance that is both subtle and surreal.

Photography by Mark Yuen

AWARD-WINNING

AUTHENTIC VIETNAMESE CUISINE AND COCKTAILS

Autostrada.indd

TASTE

When chef Michel Jacob announced he was retiring a few months ago, the foodie world held its breath, waiting to hear what would happen to Le Crocodile. The West End room has been a staple of Vancouver’s restaurant scene for four decades, and is proof that classic French cooking never goes out of style. Then, a collective exhale of happy relief with the news that Jacob’s longtime protégé and fellow chef superstar Rob Feenie would be taking over the reins. Bien sûr.

When Rob Met Michel

In the final weeks before Le Crocodile’s handover, chefs Rob Feenie and Michel Jacob look back. by Stacey McLachlan

Sometimes you hear news and think, “Of course.” Like when chef Rob Feenie announced that he would be taking over Le Crocodile, the city’s longest-running (and perpetually critically acclaimed) French restaurant. It’s where Feenie started his illustrious career—before his own critically acclaimed restaurant, Lumière; before winning Iron Chef ; before redefining Cactus Club Cafe—under the watchful eye of the great Michel Jacob, so the reveal felt less like industry gossip and more like the natural order of things: the prodigal son, returning home.

After four decades behind the stove, Jacob is ready to hang up his chef’s whites for some much-deserved R&R; knowing he is leaving Le Croc in his good friend Feenie’s capable, downrightreverent hands will make the transition a little easier. In advance of the handover, we sat down at one of the restaurant’s round tables (topped with a crisp white tablecloth, naturally) for a conversation between two of the city’s most influential culinary minds.

This conversation has been edited for length and clarity.

MICHEL JACOB: We met in ’92. Le Crocodile opened in ’83, in a smaller room on Thurlow Street across from Kami Sushi. Rob was with us at the small property and then moved to the new property and was there for four years. There were lots of young chefs who did their apprenticeship here and went on to do very well, but when he came, he was already a chef. You could see that he was very driven. Every day he walked into the kitchen and cooked. Some guys take an hour to get going. I can’t teach that. At the time, he was very fit and in good shape.

ROB FEENIE:

I’m working on it again.

MJ: We did some [bike] races together.

RF: He beat me! Meeting him for the first time, I was scared.

Especially because he’s from Alsace. I’d been to France a few times before, but the only region I hadn’t been to was Alsace. I was 25 or 26. He was kind of scary... still is, actually.

MJ: I don’t think I was scary. I don’t go to work and say, “What can I do to get this guy?” For me, there’s only one way to work: it’s the right way. If I ask you to make a béarnaise or cut something julienne, wherever you’re from, Brazil or China, there’s only one way to do it.

RF: I relearned everything here. When I started here, I thought I knew everything, like any young chef. I think when I came here, I was like, “Wait a minute.”

MJ: You show young chefs, you show them once or twice, but then if they’re making a mistake, you have to be strict. We have to learn to be focused every day. Not just on one day.

RF: Simplicity is much more difficult to achieve than complication. Anyone can read a book and make molecular gastronomy... but that’s not real food. This is real food. It takes discipline to have it taste the same every time. That’s way harder than coming up with a totally different sauce every week.

MJ: Rob was very driven. No smoking, no drugs. I knew: if this guy puts his head down, he’s gonna go. He doesn’t run that fast yet, but we’re gonna make him run faster. His parents weren’t sure at first about him being a chef, though. One afternoon, his dad came and sat at the table with Rob, and Rob said to me, “He wants to talk to you. He wants to try to convince me to stop cooking and be a firefighter.” But I said to his dad, “Give it one more year. I think he’s that close to being that good.”

RF: I call that my turning point. I remember the whole day. My

JAMIE-LEE

dad said we were going to Le Crocodile for lunch; I didn’t know why, but it was because he wanted to talk to Michel. I think if Michel hadn’t advocated for me, I wouldn’t be here. He recognized that this is what I wanted to do, and that I had places to go.

MJ: I knew when Rob left Le Crocodile that he was above average. And when he opened Lumière, he surpassed my expectations by 10 times. At the beginning, it was a Mini Me Crocodile, but after a year... whoa. He bought the right plates, everything. So I was really proud.

RF: My parents aren’t alive today, and that’s the only thing I regret—because this [takeover of Le Crocodile] would be a moment for them. When I started working for Michel, that’s when they knew this was my career. They would come here all the time. My mom was quite sick last year, and one of the last meals she had was here. Dover sole. She always had the Dover sole. When she still had her wits about her, she said, “Whatever you do, if you’re able to do something with Michel, don’t take it off the menu.”

MJ: We have people who come here once or twice a month, and they already know what they’re going to eat. Lots of young chefs change the menu every week. But if you look at three-star restaurants around the world, 50 percent of the menu has been there for the past 20 years. People come from around the world to taste that soup or that tart. You have to be consistent. If you’re not consistent, you’re not going to make it, and that’s number one. If you invite me to dinner and you make a leg of lamb and it’s tip-top, and then a year from now, if you do it again and it’s as good as I remember, I think, “This guy knows how to cook.”

RF: I come here all the time. I eat here with my family and friends a lot. It’s rare to have that.

My parents aren’t alive today, and that’s the only thing I regret—because this [takeover of Le Crocodile] would be a moment for them. When I started working for Michel, that’s when they knew this was my career.”

— Rob Feenie

The Scrapbook Jacob and Feenie at Le Crocodile back in ‘93 (above); later in the decade, the chefs flank French legend Émile Jung of Au Crocodile.

I’m not here to replace Michel because I never will. But I want to take the foundation he taught me and the time I’ve spent in Alsace and with his family and mentors into this.”

— Rob Feenie

MJ: I know his children. I knew his mom and dad. For me, when I sit down next to Rob, I don’t see a chef, I see a friend. He even went to work at Au Crocodile in Strasbourg [the inspiration for this restaurant]. When we opened, I said, “I’m going to name it after the number-one restaurant from my hometown.” For Rob to go back there and experience the restaurant himself... that’s a brother.

RF: I don’t even call him Michel, I call him Chef. The way I cook at home in my spare time is the way he taught me. My kids have grown up at this restaurant, so they’re excited about the takeover. But they are also already criticizing me, like, “Don’t change anything!” Why would I change our favourite dishes? Maybe the plating or something minor I might change, but why would I change the sauce? The onion tarts? The foie gras brûlée? I know the whole menu by heart.

MJ: I haven’t thought about what I’ll do when I’m done here. Every day I’m in front of a train and I have to run so it doesn’t catch me. Three hours after I said I was leaving, we had 3,000 reservations. Everybody wants to come one more time. People are coming in to hug me and say, “We’re going to miss you. Wow, you really did have an impact.”

RF: It was surreal to stand where he cooks. Most of the time, I stood to the right of him. So it’s a bit daunting to actually stand there.

I’m not here to replace Michel because I never will. But I want to take the foundation he taught me and the time I’ve spent in Alsace and with his family and mentors into this. What Michel is doing next month is what I’ll be doing next year, because it’s tradition.

MJ: The only reason we’re open is because we do something right. It doesn’t matter if you have a shoe store or a garage or whatever. When you do something right, people will come.

RF: He’s behind the stove here every day. When the Michelin Guide came out two years ago, everyone was at the awards, but he was still here because he had a full restaurant. He was taking care of everybody.

MJ: We’ve had lots of movie stars, and people say, “Michel, why don’t you have pictures?” We had the birthday party of Quincy Jones, of Sean Penn. Richard Gere was here with Cindy Crawford, and she went in the kitchen. But I’m not nervous to cook for them. I’d rather put up a picture of the people who save money and come once a year. Those are my superstars, my heroes.

RF: Yeah. It’s good for business to have celebrities in your

restaurant. It’s even more meaningful to have your neighbours, friends and family visit and eat.

MJ: It’s nice when you have a nice write-up in a magazine. But I don’t need that to tell me if I’m bad or good. Being a chef is instant gratification: you know right away. You make a plate and people say, “Wow, so good,” and you feel so good. In the kitchen, you send the soup, and if the soup has too much pepper, it comes back as fast as it went out. When you go to bed, you know if you did a good job.

JAMIE-LEE

Time Warp

Rob Feenie in Alsace at Au Crocodile, doing a stage with Chef Émile Jung in 1995.

THE WINE LIST

by Neal McLennan

Laying It Down

Faced with the dire prospect of drastically less Okanagan wine being available in the coming years, it’s perhaps time to ponder one of the options for dealing with such shortages: stockpiling (or, as wine people like to say, “cellaring”). B.C. wine does have some qualities that make it well-suited for laying down, chief among them a high level of natural acidity that helps preserve it as it ages. (Think about how long your vinegar can last versus your olive oil, and you have my level of understanding of the science.) And while we have a history of laying down big reds like Nota Bene and Oculus, scant attention has been focused on how our whites fare in the long run. Spoiler alert: they can age really, really well if you choose the right varietals and producers. Here are three bottles that will make you look like a vinous Nostradamus when 2030 rolls around. 1

That more B.C. wineries don’t make chenin is a headscratcher—this take by Da Silva has great minerality, sharp citrus and crisp peach; some age will round out all the angles into a beautiful melange of charm and focus.

The semillon crew is small (Lock and Worth, Chronos and a few more) but no one has been more committed to the esoteric grape than Mike Bartier. There’s a savoury element here that pairs nicely with some lime zest, and the lanolin-esque depth should spread with five to six years of age. And for $23? An easy investment.

2021, $49

Sometimes you need the blend of elegance and power that is aged chardonnay, and no B.C. winery has done more than Quails’ Gate to promote laying down their highend bottle. Your reward is a blend of mellow California richness with a freshness that’s all B.C.

FLAT-PACKED FIND

If you’re getting into the wine-aging business, you need a rack—preferably one with a sticker price that doesn’t cut into your wine budget. Enter Ikea’s near-perfect Omar bottle shelving unit. It’s easy to assemble, absurdly cheap ($50) and nicely expandable for when you ultimately get the collecting bug. ikea.ca

Da Silva Chenin Blanc 2023, $36

Bartier Bros. Semillon 2022, $23

Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay

grape GOODS

Summer Baller

This summer, let’s get ballin’—with crispy chickpea falafel, that is. Straight from Cactus Club Cafe’s iconic Mediterranean bowls, these spiced Middle Eastern morsels are your ticket to snacking glory, perfect solo or as the star of any dish. Chef Greg’s pro tip? Pair them with chicken or lamb kebabs and a side of tangy garlic yogurt, or tuck them into a homemade donair. We suggest taking them to-go (beachside, patio or picnic table), but that’s just how we roll.

by Gregory McCallum of Cactus Club

SERVES 4 TO 6

20 g parsley, picked

10 g mint, picked

20 g dill, with stems if desired

20 g cilantro, with stems if desired

85 g tahini

20 g lemon juice

Zest of 1 lemon

5 cloves garlic

40 g good olive oil

250 g dry chickpeas

170 g shallot, diced

Salt and pepper, to taste

½ tsp baking soda

1 tsp cumin

1 tsp sumac

Canola oil, for cooking

METHOD

1. Soak dry chickpeas in plenty of water overnight in the fridge. Rinse and drain the next day.

2. Place all ingredients except the oil in a food processor and blend until they form a coarse, crumbly green dough. Scrape the dough down the sides with a spatula as you go so that everything is evenly incorporated. Using clean hands or a scoop, form the dough into bite-sized falafel balls.

3. In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat about 2 inches of canola oil to 350°F. (Be careful as the oil will be very hot!)

4. In batches, gently place your falafel balls in the oil and allow to cook until a nice dark-brown crust forms. You may need to give them a flip as they float.

5. Transfer falafels to a paper towel-lined plate to drain and cool slightly before serving.

Cafe

Skip the canned chickpeas for this one—when you soak dry chickpeas overnight, they’ll double in size.

HALL OF FAME INDUCTEE

CHEERS TO ALL THE 2024 WINNERS