First Hand

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Editor’s letter Welcome to issue one of Firsthand, the magazine that aims to be your go-to for your vintage business needs. The magazine was created out of a collective passion for unique vintage pieces. In the age of mass-produced products, frequently with an unsustainable manufacturing process, one surely delights in selling pieces that very few people (if not anyone) will have, whilst knowing that an ethical vision was the driving force behind it.

Some of the articles of our first issue include a piece on the benefits of ethical fashion to vintage and charity shops; a feature on the resurgence of vinyl; and a piece on the vintage shopping experience that is kilo sales. Elsewhere, you will find a feature on the dark side of retail: counterfeiting, and how this affects vintage businesses. We hope the contents of the magazine will be beneficial to your business and that you pick up some valuable tips and tricks on how to move your business forward.

Enjoy the issue.

Kirsty Morrison Editor (Be sure to get in touch with us via social media, on Twitter @firsthandscot and Instagram @ firsthand_mag)

“I don’t think there are many of us any more who are not aware of the implications and consequences of the low cost, low quality clothing industry,”

THE GOOD

INDUSTRY A look inside the undiscovered ethics of vintage retail

By NEIL DALLIMORE The customer has a big night planned, a work’s night out, and they have their eye on a shirt on the ‘Just In’ rack and a pair of shoes on the shelf above; this is the second time they’ve come to the shop and assure the assistant they’ll be back in time for an end of university bash. Why did they choose this vintage clothing store over a big chain?

they wouldn’t normally, without paying into the leather market, and it’s a reassurance that their money won’t be paying for items made on the back of exploited foreign workers.

A student on a budget looking for a bargain? It’s a likely reason they’re shopping second hand and the lower prices don’t hurt. But, there might be something going on that neither the assistant nor the shop owner has considered and for some second hand shoppers, the reason is more important than price: it’s ethical.

This kind of conscientious shopping might not be the first or even last thought of the average shopper who might consider second hand over their usual high street spending, but there is evidence to suggest it is a present and increasing concern for people in the UK. According to research done by GfK, almost half of surveyed Britons believed corporate standards were deteriorating and there is work being done by organisations like the Ethical Consumer to educate customers on how to best shop ethically.

Maybe they don’t personally label it that way and that would make sense, since a customer can be looking to get their party outfit in one of Glasgow’s many vintage stores for a variety of reasons. It keeps money in the local economy, it means recycling rather than throwing away, it enables the customer to buy things like leather

By no means does this indicate our second hand shops will be flooded by ever increasing chunks of the population abandoning the high street for good, but it does show a constituent of the market where the sector is already leading by giving a source for that ethical drive to be channeled. Second hand shops are ahead of the

ethical consumer trend and on a model that is “win-win” according to Robin McAlpine, director of the think tank Commonweal, whether the business is for profit, for the environment, or for style; the ethical nature is present and consumers are there to take advantage of it.

“I don’t think there are many of us any more who are not aware of the implications and consequences of the low cost, low quality clothing industry,” says Robin. “Instinctively we know that if we’re getting three t-shirts for ten pounds then someone somewhere isn’t getting paid. It’s not like the average consumer hasn’t heard terrible stories about sweatshop working practices.”

Commonweal recently founded the Common Market which is putting small businesses in touch with one another and with those consumers who are looking for an easier way to support ethical, local producers. This model of challenging the status-quo of big business is already present in the second hand sector Robin believes.

“Selling an up-cycled piece of clothing has every bit as much economic benefit as selling an imported product for the same price but it has enormous environmental benefits and it also puts that money straight into the pockets of the small business rather than some foreign-owned multinational corporation.”

The environmental benefits Robin alludes to include the diverting of clothing and other items from landfill, which Wrap UK estimates to be worth around £3bn each year and they reckon eliminating this kind of waste would reduce the country’s carbon, water and waste footprints by 10-20% annually. And in this Robin sees second hand shops as having a foot-up on the big chain stores who’s remit doesn’t included recycling.

A prospective customer who is ethically minded always has to consider not only the environmental cost of the products they’re buying at the high street store, but also the human cost and second hand might not be their first thought as an alternative. However the uniqueness of second hand’s ethical selling points aren’t the only things to attract a customer says Lisa Jones, deputy manager of Oxfam Music in Glasgow.

“The friendly, inclusive atmosphere and sense of

community is something that you would struggle to find in a large chain store,” says Lisa. “That’s something that you miss out on completely when shopping through an online retailer like Amazon.

Our shop offers a social space for people.”

Presentation might have a large part to play when the customer looks through the window and for its part, Lisa’s store has the feel of an independent music shop first. It’s well arranged, warmly lit and inviting, has a range of Bob Dylan LPs, a 1970s 7” flexi-disc single designed to market instant noodles and some amazingly illustrated Herbie Hancock records, as well as other rare finds.

“I think our shop demonstrates a really innovative way of running a business that avoids waste as far as possible and makes the most of whatever resources it has,” says Lisa of what makes the shop unique. “If an item doesn’t sell on the shop floor, we’ll try out every option to save it from landfill, whether that’s selling it online, transferring it to one of our other shops or passing it on to a recycling company.”

Lisa also engages new and long-term customers through social media, record stalls and gigs in the local community, and through chatting face-to-face in the shop, however she is aware that unlike other second hand stores, music is competing with only a handful of retailers in the city, such as HMV and to a lesser extent budget brands like Poundland and CEX. For the likes of clothing stores, there is still a great many mainstream brands, with very low prices.

Robin McAlpine believes that there is still a great propensity for people to compartmentalise their conscience and how they spend and while he believes in speaking to people’s sense of doing the right thing by purchasing fair trade or second hand, the business is still very niche and he sees the barrier as market access.

“If you’re starting a vintage clothing shop you’ll by definition be likely to be looking at the very inexpensive end of the retail property market which means you’ll probably only be able to target niche markets like students or ethical shoppers,” he says. “In that environment its probably going to be important to target that specific audience.”

To overcome the barrier of being in a limited market, far removed from the high street, for example in the setting of Byres Road in Glasgow where it’s several subway stops away from the main shopping areas, it’s important to know what you are says Robin.

“There is very much a place for out-andout junk shops just like there is a place for carefully curated and put together shops of high-quality used clothing. What I doubt there is as much of a market for is a combination of the two. If you can’t access a mass market you need to focus on a specialist market and make sure that you do it really well.”

For Lisa, what has made the store a success in attracting customers who wish to live a more ethical lifestyle is not only knowing the market access that you do have, but knowing how to strike a balance between engaging new and existing customers with stock and the message of the store, which in the case of Oxfam is anti-poverty. On top of that, she believes there’s no better way to attract a customer, ethical consumer or otherwise, than a winning atmosphere, which in this case is the result of a shop team made up of people with a wide range of styles and interests.

“I think that is reflected in the layout of the shop. It looks like a collage, really colourful and full of contrasts. We also have a high number of talented artists working in the shop who contribute posters, signage and packaging. And we’re fortunate enough to get an amazing range of donations from the public to fill our shelves.”

Ethical consumption is a trend that, in our environmentally perilous times, is not going away and the second hand market has, since its inception, been contributing toward the changes experts say are needed, even before they said it. Shops need only recognise the strengths inherent within them, and reach out with a renewed confidence, that they’re not just offering rare finds and bargains, they’re contributing to a way of life.

A company is only as good as its customer. At least that’s the mantra Absolute Vintage has adopted since opening its doors in 2003.

Speaking from their East London store, marketing director Jenny Anderson shares insider tips on how to stay successful in a business as competitive as vintage and it’s all about the customer. “Knowing your customer and what they want is the defining trait of any successful company, especially when dealing with vintage stock. The picking process is very time consuming, so you want to know that what eventually ends up in store will sell.”

So who exactly are Absolute Vintage’s customers and how do they keep them happy? “We stock

a huge range of items, sourced by our highly trained buyers from warehouses around the world and although we don’t have a specific customer base as the ages and genders vary greatly, we still have our top sellers such as everyday wear, jeans and Doc Martins.”

To sell an item as vintage, the team at Absolute Vintage make sure it fits the timeline of 15 to 20 years before putting the item through the necessary measures preparing it for their shelves. “First, our buyers pick the items from thousands of clothes then it is moved to our warehouse here in London where it gets cleaned or repaired. Cleaning depends on the item: delicate pieces require careful steam cleaning,

AN ABSOLUTE

SUCCESS Insider tips from one of the UK’s biggest vintage retailers

By NIAMH HARNETT others can be hand washed. Finally, it is ready for our store where our in-house merchandisers create really eye catching displays to further entice our customers.”

Since its first foray into the vintage market in 2000, Absolute Vintage have amassed a strong following, using their keen sense of business to attract and keep their popularity. “We started off in a stall in the Notting Hill hotspot of Portobello, selling vintage shoes, which today we boast the largest selection of in the UK. We quickly began to realise that how we presented ourselves said a lot for our sales: the more colourful the better.

So we created vibrant displays which to this day is something our customers love,” Anderson tells me.

“When it comes to vintage, the senses are so important, sight more so than anything. Get creative, the idea of vintage is that you have a unique product, so you also need to have a unique brand. Be consistent with the quality of your stock and your customers will be consistent with you,” she adds.

Although Absolute Vintage continues to thrive, other vintage businesses haven’t been so lucky, with popular Vintage Guru in Glasgow’s West End closing its doors after seven years, with hopes of eventually moving online. Are we seeing smaller businesses suffer due to an increasingly competitive market? According to Anderson, trends change every day. “There are always new start-ups and you need to anticipate threats to your business. Here at Absolute Vintage we are constantly on social media, updating our pages, announcing sales and competitions and doing everything we can to keep in touch with an audience that changes daily. Although online is hugely popular, customers still walk into stores so you need to be proactive in ensuring they come back.”

Anderson’s final words of wisdom: the three things that have contributed greatly to Absolute Vintage’s success. “Your team is everything, from the buyers, to the warehouse, to those on the floor. They all have to share the same vision and goal and implement that every day. A strong team makes success a little bit easier.”

The Benefits of Vinyl Will Be Music To Your Ears

By LIAM MENZIES

Just like the weather, music is unpredictable by nature.

If it were to abide by a set of rules then many of the greatest artists the world has ever known wouldn’t be around as every song would be a bland rehash of another. The same can be said in the way that music is produced. During most of the 20th century Vinyl was the default format and it seemed like nothing could stop it but that wasn’t the case. Music veteran and owner of LOVEMUSICGLASGOW Sandy McLean explained: “The creation of the CD definitely chipped away at vinyl’s success over time, becoming the new go to format while vinyl became second best. Arguably the final nail in the coffin for us was iTunes. At first it seemed over ambitious to think you could get an album without leaving the house but when it became reality, well that was when we got hit hard.”

The death of the record looked inevitable, sinking to as low as 0.5 million copies annually (Nielsen Soundscan). Due to this, various stores either gave vinyl lower priority by pushing them to the back of the shop or flat out discontinuing them. Recently though, the vinyl has experienced a resurrection that has surprised many. New data by the Entertainment Retailers Association (ERA) shows that Vinyl is currently killing MP3 with £2.4m being spent on vinyl albums in week 48 of 2016, while only £2.1m was spent on digital downloads.

McLean explained that it comes down to various factors, saying: “Vinyl is in the right place at the right time. People have become dissatisfied with digital downloads because even though they are portable, it doesn’t have the same satisfaction as going out, buying a physical copy and starting a collection.” Charlie Ward, 18, from Cambridge said: “Records can transport you back to different eras as you’re hearing 100% of the original recording, nothing can beat the crackle of a vinyl, something that digital downloads can’t compare to”. In addition to this, 21-yearold Brendan Yorke stated he prefers vinyl due to how unreliable downloads are.

With the vitality of vinyl well in mind, it’s more important than ever for vintage stores and charity shops to be aware of this rising trend and change their approach to the format accordingly.

In the wake of this boom, many stores, both old and new, have taken advantage of this by either building their business around vinyl or giving

it more concern than they previously had. LP Records, a store situated on Byres Road, is a wonderful representation of the former, having not only made most of its revenue via vinyl but further adding to the culture of the product by hosting various events such as launch nights for specific releases which so far have all sold out nearly immediately. This has lead to the business expanding to such an extent that they now have their own label that has been applauded by fans nationwide, displaying the vistas that appealing to this musical niche. Owner Lorenzo Pacitti is just as surprised by the warm reception, saying that they’ve “we’ve been successful in appealing to and catering to several different groups and scenes that might have felt a bit underrepresented in record store culture here.

Music nerds on a whole I think appreciate how obsessive we are and how borderline psychotic we are about new music and we get that back from them.” Pacitti also makes it clear that it isn’t an easy task either, as he stated the importance of working with others: I ran this business pretty poorly for the first six months. I’m a big believer in learning as you go and taking chances when you get them. Find things you’re passionate about and take any chances you can to pursue them. Intern and work under people who can teach you things about your chosen field. Commit your time and energy in place of money where you can, If you’re young, you’ve probably got a lot more of that than most. COLLABORATE. The most important aspect of the growth of our shop is collaboration. Understand your weaknesses and use the strengths of people better at those things than you. I can’t draw, I can’t paint, I had never organised an event but our shops is bloody beautiful and we put on some of the best events in town. Work together and always include your talented friends. Working with your friends is the best, people who say otherwise have shite friends.

Not only will vinyl be a way to accumulate more money that you can further invest into different aspects of your business, it can also be a way to further bond with your community and improve the connection between you and the public. One of the greatest ways to achieve this is by participating in Record Store Day,

“It seemed over ambitious to think you could get an album without leaving the house...

a national event where connoisseurs of the format eagerly line up outside shops to grab limited releases by some of the biggest and smallest names in the business. With places like LOVEMUSICGLASGOW being situated in the heart of Glasgow city centre, it’s not uncommon to see customers browse around all nearby shops that even so much as hint to be stocking in vinyl. This means that making your shop stand out in this aspect daily, whether it be presenting vinyl at the store window or keeping them in the public’s peripheral vision, will etch the image that your shop is one that is worth venturing into, regardless if it’s nearby or a subway stop away. Shops like OXFAM Music Shop, situated on Byres Road in the West End of Glasgow, are a great example of this as while they are known for stocking in various vintage relics, they’ve also manage to squeeze their way into the public subconscious with their wide array of vinyl.

It’s not been all rosy for vinyl though, as regardless of the fact that 844,122 records have been sold in 2014 alone, critics like 24-year-old Brodie McCulloch of Ayr say that this revival

will be short-lived as “it is a fad just like pet rocks were back in the 70’s”. In addition to this, Effy Brown of Glasgow believes it is unfair that “genres like indie rock are benefiting from this revival more than others”. Furthermore, an article by the NME, written by Leonie Cooper, named the revival a sham and put it down to the rise in hipsters.

However McLean was quick to defend vinyl and address: “In regards to people that say this revival is a fad, I think it’s incredibly naïve to assume that. Vinyl has been around for more than 70 years now and even though the popularity has dipped especially in the 90s, people are now beginning to show their dissatisfaction with other formats and have realised the benefits of records”. Not only that but the recent vinyl revolution has led to the number of physical music shops in the UK reaching a record high with the number of independent record stores also reaching a fiveyear peak back in 2015, reported by none other than NME themselves! Whether or not people are buying big name artist’s vinyl, it’s evidently

... but when it became reality, well that was when we got hit hard.”

clear that by people buying these records, stores are now able to function without the worry of becoming irrelevant or bankrupt once more.

The rejuvenation clearly isn’t a fad: retailers such as Sainsbury’s, who own over 171 stores nationwide, as well as other supermarket chains like Tesco have jumped onto the bandwagon are now selling vinyl. Tesco music buyer Michael Mulligan said: “In the past year we began selling record decks in our largest stores and initial sales are very encouraging, so giving our customers some new vinyl to play on those decks seems like the next logical step. If the trial is a success then we would consider selling more vinyl albums before the end of the year.”

While this brings a lot of advantages with it, it also leads to a few challenges being presented.

Now that it’s easier than ever to buy vinyl, it isn’t enough to simply be selling the format, rather than integrating it into your shop’s personality. The aforementioned cultural enriching events such as Record Store Days is one sure fire way to do so as well as smaller and more intimate occasions such as vinyl listening nights though simply just having

a turntable playing while customers shop will be enough to make your shop memorable and catch the attention of those who still see it as a relic of the mid-20th century.

Just recently, vinyl sales made the record industry £2.4m, while downloads took in £2.1m, the Entertainment Retailers Association (ERA) said.

For contrast, during the same week last year vinyl sales only equated to £1.2 million while digital downloads trumped them with £4.4 million. ERA Chief Kim Bayley commented on the news, stating that it shows how unpredictable the music industry can be: It’s not so long ago that the digital download was meant to be the future. Few would have predicted that an album format, first invented in 1948 and based on stamping a groove into a piece of plastic, would now be outselling it in 2016.

With it being more clear than ever that Vinyl is a viable product, it’s time to dust off all the old records, put the needle down and welcome your customers with a blast from the past that’s dominating the present.

Finding Volunteers: A How-To Guide A simple three-step program for hiring the finest volunteers according to the industry experts

By Ryan Mcdougall For those of us who assist in running charity shops, you’ll probably know all too well that it can be a long and tedious process when it comes to recruiting volunteers. The main problem can be trying to persuade people for a variety of reasons, including the long hours, the weekend work, and the other somewhat unappealing aspects of retail work, with an added bonus – it’s unpaid!

There happens to be the social stigma that volunteering in charity shops (or in any non-profit organisation) that individuals are wasting their time, or that they “can’t get a real job.” What people fail to realize however, is that volunteering for a charitable organisation can be an extremely rewarding experience, and needless to say, is always for an excellent cause.

If you are struggling to recruit bodies, here’s your how-to guide in terms of preparing yourself to hire people, how to find recruits, and how to catch people’s attention.

Step one – Preparation It’s important to ensure that your potential volunteers know what is being asked of them, therefore when it comes to advertising the job role on whatever outlet, you should specify exactly what will be expected of them. This includes their working hours, days, where they will be situated, and what exactly they will be doing, for example, serving customers and stock management.

It is also a good idea to explain what the charity you are representing stands for, and what the goal of the charity is. When advertising vacancies, it is also important to choose the correct outlets.

One of Scotland’s best media outlets for volunteer recruitment is volunteerscotland.net, which gives off a positive vibe in terms of volunteering, and allows non-profit organisations to freely advertise positions on their site.

Nicole Ward, who works for The Prince & Princess of Wales Hospice, says that managers of charity

shops should “print out some posters/leaflets and put them up in shop windows and also ask the local Jobcentres if they could put the leaflets for people to see.”

Step two – Finding the Right Ones Finding the correct type of person to volunteer for you is arguably similar to hiring for any kind of retail job. They must have outstanding people skills, customer service, and a certain degree of knowledge regarding the type of products that are sold in store.

In terms of the charity side of things, they have to understand what the organisation is all about, and must feel passionate about helping towards whatever cause it represents. Essentially, they must understand the ethos behind your charity. Michael Gibson, who volunteers in the charity shop in the Yorkhill Royal Hospital for Sick Children, says: “I feel the people need to know what they are volunteering for. When I started, I did some research, and when talking to customers I know what the charity is all about and could speak to customers about the details

and educate them on where funds were going.”

When it comes to target age group, Errin Kirkpatrick, who volunteers for the British Heart Foundation, says: “The Manager should advertise aiming at the youth of today like fourth, fifth and sixth year pupils. This would ensure that some young people are able to gain qualities and skills within the retail profession that they could transfer into employment.”

Step three – Convincing Potential Recruits Now onto the tricky part. Trying to ensure people that volunteering is worth their time.

Bear in mind that some people may initially be sceptical about working for free unless they are well and truly convinced that it will be worthwhile.

Let’s say you’ve got a few interviews lined up with some potential recruits. Unlike a regular job interview, where Joe Bloggs has to persuade the manager they are suitable, in charity work, it can be more of a mutual thing, where the manager convinces Joe Bloggs that they should

volunteer for them. After all, unless somebody is willing to knock in the unpaid hours for a charitable cause out of selflessness, it goes unsaid that getting someone to work for free probably won’t be easy. This is why you must make it very clear to people that what they’re doing is of benefit to them. If they are new to the working world, volunteering can be both a great asset to the CV, as well as a step onto the employment ladder.

should explain that it will be an enjoyable experience for them, and that they will have fun volunteering for you.

Stephen Stobbs, who works for The British Heart Foundation, believes it works both ways however, rather than being solely down to the manager, he says: “I think it comes down to the individual as well. You need to have that work ethic and that want to help people.”

Nicole Ward says: “I think managers should encourage potential volunteers by telling them that a small amount of time volunteering makes a huge contribution to helping the charity out.”

Another way of proving to a person that volunteering is worth their time is by explaining to them that it can help people to gain confidence in trying something new, and how they can be a part of making a difference in the world. It is also important to explain to them that it gives them a chance to be a part of a community, and that they have the opportunity to meet new people. Most importantly, you

William Nightingale, who works as a team leader for Prostate Cancer UK, says: “Well, from me, being a team leader for Prostate Cancer UK, I have to recruit to build my team and the way I go about it is by encouraging others that there’s joy in benefiting others.”

If you are a charitable retail manager, hopefully these steps will aid you in gaining honest, passionate, hardworking, and most importantly; happy recruits!

How is online vintage affecting the high-street’s boutiques?

By MARTIN CUNNINGHAM Shopping online has become a popular way for consumers to spend their money. Whether it be the latest pair of ‘must-have’ trainers or a designer hand bag or even a haunted rubber duck named ‘Yella’ (which sold on eBay for over $100), the internet has opened up a global market to the public and it is continuing to grow year after year.

A report put out by Twenga Solutions last year showed that the online share of all retail trade in the UK was projected to stand at 16.8% in 2016 which is an increase from the previous year. That means the three out of four of people who have access to the internet in the UK bought something at least once whilst online. The report also showed that the most popular items to buy were clothing or footwear with places like eBay, ASOS and New Look being the most popular to find these products.

But what does that mean for those selling vintage or second-hand clothing on the high street? Well, eBay is an obvious rival for business, as is ASOS

which recently opened their ‘marketplace’ which is dedicated to selling vintage fashion online and allows boutiques from around the world to sell to the UK markets with one click of a button. Do these giants of the web pose a threat to those running their own businesses locally?

Rachel Johnson, who runs ‘The Yesterday Society’ a vintage boutique in the heart of Newcastle doesn’t see the threat: “I don’t necessarily see online vintage sellers as a threat, they offer obvious competition and can make more profit by selling with lower overheads.

“I have no problem with vintage sellers who choose just to sell online. I love to see people wearing vintage clothes, and online sellers increase my ability to buy a greater variety of vintage clothes for myself. I would however always prefer to dig through a vintage shop and find a great piece rather than just shop online.”

Alan Fraser who runs ‘Glorious’ in the west end of Glasgow feels differently: “I think places

like ASOS must be a threat to vintage shops on the high street, retail is definitely quieter.

I can’t speak for everyone but ‘Glorious’ has been going for over 30 years and it’s certainly difficult. But it’s difficult times all round just now and there is so much uncertainty that it is hard to tell how much of an affect online outlets are having on business.”

He also points out that he thinks that those who shop online are missing out on an ‘experience’: “It certainly takes away from an experience, shopping online is a whole different thing plus the complications of getting things from the likes of eBay aren’t straight forward! If you’re selling from eBay you need to take all sorts of photographs, write all sorts of descriptions and then you send it off to the buyer and they end up sending it back straight away because it doesn’t fit.

“It’s just completely different from coming into a shop and trying something on, I think you’re

taking a chance if you’re buying online. It’s important to actually have a look at what you’re buying, especially with second hand because it’s never going to be perfect.”

But this raises the question as to why consumers would want to shop on the high street if online outlets can supply vintage goods at a cheaper rate and deliver straight to their front doors? Johnson also thinks it comes down to the ‘experience’ of trying on the clothes but says shopping in store offers a much more authentic ambiance: “Personally, one of the main attractions of vintage and differences between a vintage store and an online vintage outlet is the thrill of the hunt, and not knowing what you will find. As a physical shop, we allow customers to try items on before buying, which can be invaluable when shopping for vintage as many items look and fit completely than you might expect.

“I also believe that a shop allows the creation of

a more vintage feeling, and a step back in time with retro décor. Whenever customers pop in to The Yesterday Society they will find patchouli oil burning, vinyl playing and a vintage enthusiast more than happy to chat about vintage clothing and music among other things, as well as offering advice.”

In an age where shopping online is growing from strength to strength is it important to have a strong online presence to try and tackle giants such as eBay and ASOS? Fraser is unsure: “I don’t know, if you’re not selling online then there’s not much point in creating a website but I may be wrong.”

He adds: “We have Instagram, which we get a bit of feedback from and that kind of depends on who you follow and how active they are.

We use Twitter for business but it’s very light, we haven’t done any other sort of further advertising. I suppose we do get a bit more traffic on the Facebook page but not a huge

amount, it’s difficult to know how important it is or not because really what you need if you’re running a shop is people coming through the door. We don’t have our own website, we mainly use those three things.”

‘Glorious’ offers a wide selection of women’s vintage and second hand goodies such as clothes, jewellery and handbags. It first opened in 1988 in the Virginia Galleries but has since moved to Great Western Road and has previously appeared in some publications, such as the Evening Times, as one of the best places to shop or visit in the city.

Johnson, of ‘The Yesterday Society’ which is situated in Newcastle’s Grainger Market argues that being active online is a key way to attract customers: “I feel it is important to have a strong online presence as it is how a lot of consumers live their life nowadays.

“Since opening ‘The Yesterday Society’ we have been very active on social media sharing

new stock, details of promotions and outfit ideas.

I am also currently improving and developing the website to include a greater amount of information about the business. I believe ‘The Yesterday Society’ is now established among locals, but recognise the importance of having an online presence to attract visitors to the city and new customers.

Vintage shops are not the only ones moving online with their second-hand goods to attract customers.

Back in 2010 Oxfam launched the first online vintage charity shop, specialising in clothes and accessories from the 1950’s to the 1980’s. And although they still having a wide selection to pick from locally at any of their 650 stores nationwide, moving online has proven a great success for the charity, with recent press release stating that it had helped increase online sales between November and December by 43 percent.

So if the success of moving further and further online continues could vintage fashion possibly one day become solely online?

“Well I would hope not,” says Fraser “I think the industry has gone through the that a little bit but there is loads of vintage markets and events on now.

I think it might have already subsided, I don’t know for sure but people are coming out to these big events that travel about from city to city like vintage fairs and I think that is the best way to get secondhand or vintage clothes and the only way shopping second-hand can really work.”

Johnson agrees: “I think like retail in general there is a big move to consumers shopping online, however I believe that vintage shops as spaces have a great deal of value in creating a place that people enjoy to visit and shop in. The whole excitement about not knowing what you will find is lost online as you need to know what to search for. Whereas I will often go in a vintage shop looking for a dress and leave with a fab handbag or some killer shoes I had no idea I needed.”

Whether you run a vintage stall in a local market or successful chain of boutique stores throughout a city it is is clear through talking to people behind the counters that if you are to tackle places such as ASOS or eBay it is of course important to have a strong presence out-with your business online, whether that be through a website or social media.

But you must also make a strong presence within your business and create an atmosphere and supply goods that keep customers coming back time and time again.

“The whole excitement about not knowing what you will find is lost online as you need to know what to search for.�

FAKERS AND

FORGERIES A look inside the culture of counterfeiting

By CAMERON MCINNES

There are many qualities integral to the vintage retail experience – none more so than the age old elegance of the products on display. From small trinkets to t-shirts to antique treasures, each item on display carries with it the unspoken promise that it holds in itself a history. This could be the mission statement of every purveyor of vintage stock; items from the past now presented for sale in the present.

how common is this less than stellar merchandise?

It’s good news for sellers of vintage t-shirts and other wearable’s. According to James Applegath, founder of vintage t-shirt retailer Defunkd, counterfeit clothes are surprisingly sparse across the industry.

“Across the board, it’s not super common.

Although in Thailand, it’s a massive industry and some of it does make it all over the world. There’s So what happens when that promised past been at least one large scale operation in the turns out to be less than genuine? And here US in the last decade, but it was exposed and we encounter the problem of counterfeiting. In discontinued. Since then it appears as though essence, counterfeit items are those produced with there’s been several small scale rings and a lot of the aim of deceiving a customer, by having the single person cash grabs.” appearance of the genuine article without any of It’s less merry as far as counterfeit vintage records the quality nor the rich history. Indistinguishable are concerned; the resurgence in the market for from their more legitimate counterparts, at least vinyl has also allowed for a new wave of fakes on a surface level, these frauds and fakes can and forgeries. Kurt Wildermuth, author and vinyl very easily slip into the stock of even the most on expert, describes a market ripe for exploitation; the level retailor.

“Now that vinyl is ‘back’ there’s a market And these reproductions aren’t just of inferior for reproductions of classic albums or rare quality – they’re also considerably less valuable. collections. A lot of these fakes exist to target And so a most crucial question emerges here;

“In Thailand, it’s a massive industry and some of it does make it all over the world. ” “Check things like record labels. Most people outside of music nerds won’t think to check or even care. The way track titles are printed is another. But it can be things like – get this - the size of the pressing stamp, the small indent, on the label. If the mark is too And while it’s useful to be aware of how rife big, you have a fake. I had a copy of the Beatle’s Christmas where, in the lower left these off market wares are, this is only half corner, a shadow on Ringo’s eye was too the proverbial battle for any savvy retailer. dark – it was a fake.”

The real skill is in identifying counterfeit Finally, is there anything that can be done items if or when they are encountered. if a retailer is to discover that a product Across the board, the advice is essentially they’ve acquired is a fake? Sadly, there’s the same; the devils in the details. little to be done outside of offering the item For clothes, Applegath recommends to for a reduced price. As Applegath says, check the label; an oft overlooked part of it all depends on where the merchandise any piece of clothing; comes from.

“Check the tag and the print. Compare “It depends on how they source their them both to a known true version. If it’s a inventory. Many online retailers get their one colour print it admittedly can be near inventory online - so if they discover the impossible. But multiple colour prints you item is fake upon arrival they can file a can typically spot differences in the print PayPal dispute. We get our items from a and colours. Thanks to Thailand creating used clothing mill - and have yet to discover unauthorized “replicas” of blank vintage a modern counterfeit. Though it’s possible brands - we now have to be weary of the actual shirt too - as previously counterfeiters for one to slip in as people who wear them would likely end up donating it once they were using genuine vintage deadstock stopped wearing it.” blanks (Deadstock refers to any piece of Overall, it seems that against the ever clothing that was never officially sold from present threat of counterfeiting, there is only a store – excess stock of brands long since one sure-fire defence; a constant vigilance passed).” and a keen eye for detail. In this case, only For records, the process can be trickier, the seller truly invested in their stock and be but relatively similar in practice – the finer sure that all the histories they sell are those the details, the more likely a forger is to that are genuine. overlook them. As Wildermuth explains; collectors – people on the hunt for that one rare record to complete their collection.

There’s also times where the work of legitimate reproduction labels is passed off as an original, and these often suffer from really poor quality control.”

ORGANISED CHAOS OR A VINTAGE GOLDMINE?

By NIAMH HARNETT

A look at vintage Kilo sales and what makes them so popular For many, digging through rails of clothing and tables of accessories is not their idea of a day well spent but for the minds behind Preloved, a vintage wholesaler, the organised chaos that is a kilo sale is a goldmine.

Recently, Preloved came to the Trades Hall of Glasgow for one of their popular £15 per kilo sales and I got talking to Events and Brand manager Jessica Greg. “It takes a whole team to organise one of these events. We have a team in the warehouse dealing with the sorting and a team in the office dealing with the marketing.

Our items are sourced worldwide and our stock is never ending. We’ve been in the industry long enough to know that a strong team will make things run smoothly.”

The Trades Hall was packed, I paid my £1.50, accepted the bin bag given to hold your purchases and wondered why I was willingly entering a room filled to the brim with shoppers and what looked like every item of clothing on earth. I wasn’t sure where to start but I quickly got the gist as I wandered around, bin bag firmly in hand. There were people from every age group and gender pulling clothes off hangers and trying them on there and then.

Some were clearly more specialist and knew exactly what they were looking for, while others were there simply because they had seen a flyer.

Leah Irvine was a kilo sale newbie. “I’ve been seeing the posters around my university for the last month and although I’ve never shopped vintage before, it sounded interesting. Students love clothes and bargains so I didn’t think I could go wrong. I’ve picked up some pieces I’ve never seen before.”

According to Greg, most of the people who come to a Preloved kilo sale come because of their advertising. “We chose the location of our sales based on whether or not it has a university nearby since our customers are mainly students.

We then get the word out and we do this through social media, putting up posters, flyers, anything that will attract attention and build a buzz around the event.”

As I watch people attempt to pull dungarees over their clothes and fight to use the mirror, I find myself wondering if this is a niche event.

Would someone who struggles with the idea of no changing rooms and cramped spaces come to a kilo sale? Is the set-up always the same?

“Of course the location is always changing, but generally the way we set up the room is the same: four or five large rails in the centre, mirrors and a small changing space for women at one end and same for men at the other. I don’t think this deters customers; our concept is successful because we provide a different way for the consumer to buy great clothes at a great price. People get really excited about our events; we are always getting requests to come to different cities,” says Greg.

I can’t deny Greg’s words; the atmosphere in the room is relaxed and anxious all at once as people take their time to peruse each item while still keeping a sharp eye out for something they just can’t leave without. Just before I leave I bump into a girl with her hands full of bin bags.

Amelia Smith has been here since 11am and as 3pm rolls around she’s finally prepared to leave. “I always come to Preloved’s kilo sales.

They have amazing stock and you can spend the day looking through all of it. It never stops because once a rail starts to look bare they just bring in more.” When I ask her about its success she has nothing but praise. “I would say half my wardrobe is clothes I’ve picked up at a kilo sale. It’s great value for great prices. The staff are really nice and know the stock really well.

If you’re looking for something in particular, regardless of the mountains of clothes they’ll know if they have it, so as much as it might seem really unorganised, it is a professional event.”

Jazz music is playing. Nostalgia is in the air while browsing the rails of colourful vintage clothes. Among the fashion, a sequinned party dress from the Eighties, a full-skirted frock from the Fifties. At the Glasgow Vintage Company, with its two floors of love-worn vintage goodness, the customer is sure to delight in its thrills.

Among the energy and excitement, a young woman is serving at the till, dressed in a black turtleneck and a mustard-coloured ribbed cardigan. Her blonde hair is gathered in a topknot and she serves the customers with an infectious enthusiasm; you can tell that she has a passion for all things vintage. Her name is Laura Armstrong and she is the manager of the

Glasgow Vintage Company.

After studying Fashion Marketing at Glasgow Caledonian University, Armstrong applied for a part-time sales assistant role in the store, working her way up to supervisor and then to shop manager two years ago. Her career in vintage began at the Glasgow Vintage Company; she emphasises the pleasure and freedom she gets in her role. “I really enjoy working here. There is just the shop owner above me but he gives me quite a lot of free rein in how to run things. You don’t really get that in larger businesses,� she says.

Nevertheless, in a large or small business, a good team needs to be the driving force behind it. They must have an artistic vision that relates to

How to rule the vintage market Two Glasgow vintage businesses give their expertise on the craft

By KIRSTY MORRISON

the industry and must consider the clientele and their needs. “[There is] quite a high demand for vintage in Glasgow. A lot of people come from London for weekends away to come vintage shopping in Scotland because it’s so much cheaper and [has a] better selection apparently,” says Armstrong.

It is clear that the Glasgow Vintage Company is thriving: with their handpicked vintage stock from a local textile wholesaler, there is something for every vintage lover, of any age and gender. They demonstrate an ability to keep customers interested, evident in their popularity.

For other vintage shops aiming to attract more customers and increase their visibility, Armstrong emphasises the importance of social media

in achieving this, saying that “a presence on Facebook and Instagram because it’s quite a visual product and quite colourful” is key. She continues: “We can find some really funny clothes and things as well. Having a presence online is good to showcase your stock.” This will no doubt increase your business reach and appeal to a wider market as well.

Ultimately though, beyond the fashionable and visual appeal of the clothes, an important factor stands out: the ethical way the clothes have been made. “It’s a much more sustainable way to shop. It’s almost guilt-free shopping because you are recycling and reusing. That same garment that was made once-upon-a-time has had decades of use. That’s a really good thing

for the environment. It is unique so you are not going to find anyone with it, which you just don’t get with buying something from Topshop [where] everyone’s got the same thing,” says Armstrong.

This idea of unique secondhand pieces is one that is echoed by another vintage business: Retro in Glasgow.

The current owner, Lesley McGowan, handpicks all of the stock while ensuring a careful selection of pieces, with an emphasis on the Seventies.

“Usually, every piece is unique, it’s different, [and] you won’t see anyone else wearing it. You are getting it at a really good price. It’s got a history, it’s got a story. You can mix and match it with modern stuff, with cheaper stuff,” she says.

Opened in 1987, McGowan took over full control of the business in 1999. She joined the company in 1996, having known the original owner. With Retro’s long-running success, you would think that they have the experience to know the inner workings of the industry. So what advice would McGowan give to other vintage businesses looking to expand their outreach and grow in popularity?

“If you can get plenty of stock then try and change it and turn it over instead of having the same stock lying around. Also try and buy your stock at a really good price if you can because you want to put it out as cheap as you can.

Unfortunately, the vintage prices have come down so it means you make less of a profit, which means when you buy your stock you’ve got to buy it as cheaply as possible. Because once you’ve bought your stock you are left with it, it’s not like you can give it back,” she emphasises.

With all things considered, a thriving vintage business with plenty of stock and satisfied customers does not come without challenges, in particular, the question of money. “Do you have enough money to open every day? To pay for your stock? Things like that. I’d say that’s the most challenging thing,” says McGowan.

If you can run a successful business while navigating the difficult issues, this will be evident in the happy customers who keep on coming back for more.

The Life and Legacy of Sue Ryder

By Ryan Mcdougall

Some of us who work in charity retail will have come across the name Sue Ryder, generally in the form of a predominantly vintage-style charity shop.

With items for sale ranging from toys, to clothes and furniture, it makes for a nice place for people to buy collectables that are no longer produced, and all for the amazing cause of helping to provide hospice and expert care to those who suffer from of the most painful diagnoses in the world.

But who was Sue Ryder? What did she do to become the name of one of the many respected UK charity retailers?

Sue Ryder, or Margaret Susan Ryder, was born on the third of July 1924 in Leeds, where she was educated at Benenden School. At the beginning of the Second World War, she volunteered at the age of 15 (having lied and claimed to be older) to aid those who had been left homeless as a result of the war.

Sue was horrified by the war, and once said in an interview in 1987, available on the Imperial War Museums website (iwm.org.uk) that when she heard the country had gone to war with Germany “I was sickened. I think any of us who lived through the ‘30s were fed up to the back teeth, to put it crudely. I think we were just disgusted by the whole attitude of either government who was in power.”

This was under the Special Operations Executive, a secretive group set up by Winston Churchill. This took a very young Sue all across the world, to countries such as Poland, a country she claims to have fell in love with.

She ventured to North Africa, Italy, and Germany, where she witnessed the sheer devastation and tyranny the Nazi regime brought to the people across all areas of the globe.

In the archived radio interview, Sue described the aspects of her time with the Special Operations Executive that she enjoyed the most.

She said: “You know it was something which would never occur again in life. It was like living with people under a sentence of death.

“We did get to know people very well. It’s sort of like living with and nursing people who are terminally ill, so they talk about things they normally wouldn’t.

“So it was all extremely memorable. And above all, we have enormous admiration and affection for them.”

After her days in the war were over, Sue broadened her humanitarian horizon, and went on to do what the charity’s goal is today – to provide hospice and neurological care for those with life-threatening conditions, with 12 established care centres open today, which have seen that the outstanding work of Lady Ryder has been continued. Some of the closest care centres are in Aberdeen and Stirling, who deal with neurological care and homecare respectively.

Due to differences in opinion between herself and the leadership team regarding the direction the charity was heading, Sue left the organization in 1998, and then established another charity, the Lady Ryder of Warsaw Memorial Trust.

Sue passed away in 2000, aged 76.

Some of her other works included two autobiographies, And the Morrow is Theirs (1975) and Child of My Love (1986).

That’s the story behind the Sue Ryder charity that eventually brought about the retail business that exists today to support the organization’s incredible work; one inspiring woman who helped to change the world, and whose name and legacy live on today.

So next time you head in to start your shift at whatever charity retailer you may work or volunteer for, spare not just Lady Ryder a thought, but rather to all the foremothers and fathers of the high street charity shops we see today, who have helped change the world, all beginning with one selfless act of compassion.

And remember what your contribution as a charity worker truly stands for.

Antiques, Vintage and Collectors Fair: 25th and 26th February, Royal Highland Centre, Edinburgh.

Take part in the largest antiques event in Scotland. With a great mix of antique, vintage and retro items, this event attracts buyers from all over the UK. Get in touch with B2B Events on 01636 676531 for more information.

Preloved Vintage Kilo sale: 9th April, Trades Hall of Glasgow, Scotland.

Interested in learning more about the kilo sale phenomenon?

Then head to the Trades Hall on Sunday the 9th of April where you can speak to organisers and customers alike.

Vintage, Retro and Collectors Fairs: 5th March, Market Square, Crewe, Cheshire.

This event boasts rare designer vintage apparel as well as vintage gold and silver jewellery. Have something to offer?

Contact J.A. Conner events and get yourself a stall today.

The Classic Car Boot Sale: 22nd and 23rd April, Kings Cross, London.

Collectors from all across the UK will be manning stalls at this car boot sale which will see everything from vintage fashion to accessories, homeware and vinyl. Email info@ classiccarbootsale.co.uk to take part or go as a spectator and learn some of the tricks of the trade.

VINTAGE EVENTS

By NIAMH HARNETT