Calibre Magazine January-February 2024

THE LUXURY OF TIME VOLUME 19 ISSUE 145

Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon

REIGN OF FIRE C H O P A R D C E L E B R AT E S T H E Y E A R O F T H E D R A G O N PHP 380

I SSN 19 0 8 - 49 9 4

J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

20 24

MINUTES E DITOR' S

“IT IS A GIFT IF YOU ARE ABLE TO MAKE SOMEONE FEEL BETTER. IT IS MORE ESPECIALLY A GIFT IF YOU WERE ABLE TO DO SO DOING SOMETHING YOU ENJOY.”

Carl S. Cunanan Editor-in-chief

WO RDS

Worthy

I

saw a nice watch on my Instagram feed the other day, a Seiko Presage, and I realized it was from someone I had met that day.

So I messaged saying hey, I didn’t see that watch. They responded saying, thank you, and to be honest, I was hoping you would notice it. That was extremely flattering, and it also showed me how lacking I was in being more responsible.

Now it is truly impossible to always catch everything, and I don’t want to turn looking at peoples watches into part of a job description.

But the truth is the position I am in now is, and always has a been, a gift. And you can argue that it’s not anyone’s responsibility to notice everything about everybody else.

However, I honestly think it’s our responsibility to make peoples lives a little bit better every chance we get.

And we get a lot of chances.

Every day.

It’s not exactly hard for me to look at a watch and appreciate it. I enjoy seeing watches and I enjoy hearing the stories and I enjoy seeing the light in someone’s eyes when they talk about how special something is.

It is a gift if you are able to make someone feel better. It is more especially a gift if you were able to do so doing something you enjoy.

It was funny because this all happened while I was watching an old and very well-written TV show that Tito Hermoso and I always talked about, and one from which I always drew inspration. While this message about the Presage came in, I was listening to the words of a speech that combined the loss of a friend with a tremendous personal win. They said,“I am more grateful than I can say. You have given me an opportunity that comes to few people. Perhaps fewer are worthy of it.”

So may we all, always, be grateful.

May we all appreciate our opportunities.

May we all give opportunities to others.

And may we be worthy.

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J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

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Contents COVER WATCH

24

Chopard Celebrates the “Serpent of the Sky” in gold and lacquer

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J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

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Contents FEATURES

32

Hamilton

Transforms the Ventura for the Year of the Dragon

36

Frederique Constant

A platinum case with a meteorite dial.

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J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

2024

Contents FEATURES

40

Vacheron Constantin Radiance

46

Longines

An iconic diver’s watch gets a makeover.

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Contents FEATURES

50

Rolex

Vibrant Day-Dates

54

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’

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J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

2024

Contents FEATURES

58

Oris

The ProPilot GMT

62

Maurice Lacroix

Is the King of beach volleyball

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Contents FEATURES

66

TAG Heuer

A majestic tribute to the Year of the Dragon

72

A. Lange & Söhne Lunar Beauty

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J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

2024

Contents FEATURES

76

Tudor

Divers Watch

80

Patek Philippe

Honors tradition and vision

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J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

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Contents FEATURES

84

Grand Seiko

Brings yet more beauty to beauty

PARALLEL PASSION

90

Bentley

Hitting the water

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94

Porsche Design

Crowned the best, this monitor will conquer your game.

“Putting on a beautifully designed suit elevates my spirit, extols my sense of self, and helps define me as a man to whom details matter.”

— Gay Talese, Author

parallel passion

J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

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Contents REGULARS

01

Minutes Carl S. Cunanan

16

Vintage Explorer

Jose Martin V. Ursúa

17

The Wind-Up

Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre World

96

Timeframe

Pictures in time as we travel the world

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Quality deserves time.

MASTHEAD

Carl S. Cunanan Editor-In-Chief

Advertising Traffic Manager

Jennie O. Salazar

C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Publisher

Account Managers Senior Editor

Hernan C. Mapua

Malyn L. Bautista Erwin G. Bautista Joji Z. Coloma

Chairman

Michael L. Lhuillier

Collections Editor

Managing Director

Associate Editor

Board of Directors

Jason S. Ang

Kit O. Payumo

Paolo M. Puyat-Martel

Alberto E. Casal

Michael L. Lhuillier Paolo M. Puyat-Martel Carl S. Cunanan Kevin C. Limjoco

Editor-at-Large

Chief Operating Officer

Senior Staff Writer

On The Cover

Bryan Martin B. Zialcita

Cecille Khristine D. Buenviaje

Design Director

Charie L. Biaden

Senior Accountant

Merline B. Urdas

Senior Designer

Mark David A. See

Credit and Collection Officer

Mary Ann M. Benito

Designer

Mary Ann E. Marcelo Contributing Writers

William Herrera Alvin Uy Katherine S. Cunanan Jose Martin V. Ursúa Leonard Vincent L. Ho Edrich Santos Dominique O. Cerqueda

Legal Counsel Chopard - L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon Volume 19 Issue 145 - January-February 2024

Paredes Garcia & Golez Law Office C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Burgundy Corporate Tower Units 27B and 27AR03 252 Sen Gil Puyat Avenue, Makati City Visit: www.calibremagazine.com

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Contributing Photographer

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Copyright © 2024 The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised in this edition.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in part or in whole without written permission of the publisher.

Time passes irrevocably.

J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

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VINTAGE EXPLORER Hypocrite? Me?

I

n the past year, I’ve expended gallons of virtual ink wringing my hands and rending my garments over the two Swatch collaborations. I was initially a champion of 2022’s MoonSwatch, inarguably the most hyped timepiece in history.

Then I grew to resent the Swatch Group’s broken promises, and its opportunistic gaming of the distribution of the sought-after Missions.

In the last issue of Calibre I was pessimistic about the impact of the Blancpain x Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms to both collectors and the masses, and on the prospects of future such projects with sibling brands.

So guess what happened on a recent family vacation I took to Korea? There we were, visiting the spectacular Hyundai Seoul shopping centre, when I was compelled — as if by supernatural forces (or maybe a previous day’s search on Google Maps) — to trek to the adjacent IFC Mall and its Swatch Boutique.

I asked the young man behind the counter about his stock, and he confirmed that all models of Scuba and MoonSwatch were available. Without hesitation: “I’ll take one Atlantic Ocean, and one Mission to the Moon, please.” Hypocrite!

In my defense, my original enthusiasm for the MoonSwatch was based on the promise that the watches would be readily available, and not prized rarities sought out by speculators, influencers, and other filthy tourists in our hallowed hobby. As I wrote in June 2022: “How nice would it be to see an iconic watch on a shelf, and be able to purchase it for a few hundred dollars, without any consideration of scarcity or future resale value?” Despite this Pollyannaish idealism still flickering within my calloused heart, it took some discipline not to buy more plastic watches to sell for a tidy profit.

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Now back on the Swatch Group bandwagon, I started to think about what might become the next “Swatch X” joint.

I’m certain that the mould injectors back in Grenchen are already being retooled to squirt out the next, er, Bioceramic fusion of Swiss legends. Out of the Group’s brands, it probably wouldn’t be a Certina: The DS-2 is a timeless icon in another universe, but not in ours. Tissot PRX? The steel one is already cheap enough. Hamilton has the instantly recognizable Ventura, especially cool following two official Elvis movies in two years. But the real thing similarly doesn’t cost a big chunkachunka burning change. So here are some fantastic, ah, Bioceramic concepts: Breguet XX Swatch: We’ve seen a chronograph and a diver, so a pilot’s watch would make a logical next release. The Type XX boasts a simple dual-register design combined with the exquisite touches of Breguet: Florid script, exquisite hands.

Currently priced at $18,000, an economy-class version wouldn’t cannibalize any sales, and give watch novices a taste of the oldest brand in horology.

Seamaster Remaster: Which model could stand next to the Speedmaster in terms of cultural impact? How about the Bond Seamaster — specifically, the 300M worn by Pierce Brosnan in Goldeneye, the movie and the Nintendo 64 game. If TAG Heuer can charge $26K for a Mario Kart tourbillon chronograph (admittedly a rather nice one), then Omega and Swatch should get a piece of that classic gaming action.

Automata for the People: Although I would dearly love to have a Royal Australian Navy Droz dive watch, the storied name’s most famous creations are a trio of creepy automata from the 18th century. Devised

by Pierre Jaquet-Droz et fils, these were The Draughtsman, The Musician and The

Writer. If you are unfamiliar with these early clockwork robots, I urge you to go to YouTube and watch a video. Breathtaking achievement, exceedingly creepy, and worthy of a simplified reimagining for the 21st century.

Dogora: My last proposal is an inversion of the MoonSwatch premise. Instead of Swatch creating a budget Speedmaster, Omega would craft a premium Swatch. The Group mythologizes the original Swatch as the saviour of the Swiss watch industry (Rolex: “Didn’t need saving… thanks!”), so this would be a fine opportunity to pay tribute. Picture the Swatch x Omega Giant Jellyfish, with a Master Chronometer movement visibly housed in a sapphire case. The cherry on top could be a premium-priced option that would make the Oysterflex blush: A Dyneema/carbon-fibre Swatch Guard!

I would cheerfully write a column decrying the decadence of any of these watches, and what it portends for watch collecting as a whole. But why would I whine about a watch that I myself conceived? Because I am an opinion columnist… and a hypocrite!

Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer

J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

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THE WIND-UP Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world

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THE WIND-UP

PERFORMANCE STATS

well. Case in point is the Pilot’s Watch

IWC Schaffhausen releases two performance chronographs to mark two of their longest standing partnerships

introduced in 2022 to commemorate two

Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team,” which was of the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker’s longest running partnerships.

Back in 2004, IWC Schaffhausen became the official timekeeper of Mercedes-AMG, the official performance division of the German automaker. It was

I

f there is one thing

just a matter of time then that the Swiss

that IWC Schaffhausen

luxury watchmaker became the “Official

in known for it has to

Engineering Partner” of Mercedes-AMG

be for their Big Pilot’s

PETRONAS, the Formula One Team of

watches. The amount of

Mercedes-Benz in 2013.

time and effort they’ve put in developing

As one of its final releases for 2023,

these watches has literally put the

IWC extended their Mercedes-AMG

Schaffhausen-based watchmaker on the

collection just ahead of the inaugural Las

map and has resulted in one of the most

Vegas Grand Prix in November with two

comprehensive collections of pilot’s

high-performance chronographs based

watches in the industry.

on the original Pilot’s Watch Chronograph

Best of all, they’ve successfully

41. These new performance oriented

parlayed this extensive expertise into

chronographs take the core platform of

watches geared outside of the realm of

the fan-favorite original but go further

aviation with a truly impressive roster

into the world of motorsport by employing

of instrument-based timepieces made

distinctive black ceramic bezels marked

for other professions. These high-

with tachymeter scales. These allow the

performance timepieces feature such

wearer to measure the average speed in

high accuracy, robustness, reliability and

relation to the distance travelled.

durability that they’ve become deeply

The first of this high-performance duo

ingrained into the company’s DNA, as

enhances Mercedes-Benz’s performance

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arm with the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG, a model that features a 41.1mm grade 5 titanium case that is just 14.8mm thick marked by largely brushed surfaces and thin high-polished bevels on the lugs. Boasting the highest strength to density ration of any metal, the grade 5 titanium used for this model is 45% lighter than steel with excellent rigidity. And just like the standard Pilot’s Watch Chronograph, this AMG version features 100 meters of water resistance and a screw-down display caseback with a gently convex sapphire crystal on the dial. It is matched with either a robust, waterproof black rubber strap or a titanium bracelet with H-links and an integrated folding clasp.

The Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team, on the other hand features a case made of Ceratanium, a lightweight titanium alloy forged to IWC’s specifications that combines the lightness and rigidity of titanium with the hardness and scratchresistance of ceramic. This dark version is fitted with a black rubber strap with a Ceratanium pin buckle with the option of a a Ceratanium bracelet with an integrated folding clasp.

All four versions are powered by the IWC manufactured 69385 mechanical chronograph calibre, which has been engineered with an uncompromising focus on robustness, reliability and precision.

The movement is comprised of 242 parts and features a bi-directional pawl winding system that builds a power reserve of 46 hours, as well as column-wheel control to ensure that the switching sequences are clearly defined. Assembled on a dedicated line at IWC’s Manufakturzentrum, the 69385 movement and its functions are tested automatically over 12 days in the FIM (Final Inspection Movement) cell developed by IWC. Both the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG and the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team are eligible for registration under the My IWC care program, which can extend the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty to up to 6 years.

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THE WIND-UP

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THE VANISHING

Zenith takes its most extreme chronograph and hides it in plain sight

M

irrors! Or more specifically: mirrorlike finishes is how the watchmaker intends to blend the DEFY

Extreme, an extremely hefty and robust chronograph however you look at it, right in with its surroundings.

“Aston Martin calls it the Vanquish, I call it the ‘Vanish’!” – Quartermaster, MI6.

And just like Die Another Day’s fictional Aston Martin that turns invisible with just the press of a button, the DEFY Extreme Mirror, for all intents and purposes, becomes invisible courtesy of its mirrorlike finish. Perhaps the better description is that it blends in with its surroundings. The only difference is there’s nothing fictional about the very real DEFY Extreme Mirror.

Touted as the ultimate, ultramodern

"In its efforts to make the watch less conspicuous, Zenith has created one of their most attention-grabbing releases yet."

camouflage watch, the DEFY Extreme Mirror is at once extremely “eye-catching and stealthy” and uses its extremely

actual mirrors to do the job, and ladies

polished, angular stainless steel case as

and gentlemen the resulting effect is

well as its integrated bracelet to reflect

undeniably stunning. The combination

because the muscular, ultra-modern

the sky, the earth, and indeed its entire

of the above-mentioned elements, in

Defy Extreme is no small watch to begin

surroundings without distortion.

conjunction with the similarly mirrored

with, one which combines an ultra-

outer-minutes track, the polished

technical, skeletonized 1/100-second

facet of the DEFY Extreme Mirror’s case is

beveled hour indices, and the broad,

dual-escapement chronograph with the

completely polished, most especially the

semi-skeletonized polished hour and

brand’s bombastic 45mm wide and 16mm

dodecagonal and circular stepped bezel,

minute hands conspire to create a level of

thick case design.

as well as the broad, wedge-like stylized

reflected, “mirrorized” effect never before

crown guards. And that’s not all. It’s not

seen in the industry.

We cannot stress enough how every

just the case that’s mirrored.

In fact, it’s easy to catch one’s

DEFY Extreme Mirror cannot be denied.

The effect has to be seen to be believed

And there’s the rub, because of its inherent bulk, Zenith may have possibly endeavored to tone down the

reflection on the case, and more so on the

overall effect of the DEFY Extreme. But

used smoked sapphire on its 12 o’clock

dial (unflattering as it may be given the

in its efforts to make the watch less

power reserve indicator and each of

skewed viewing angles on the multiple

conspicuous, Zenith has created one of

the three subdials to distinguish them

surfaces). Alas, this single-finish, ultra-

their most attention-grabbing releases

from the partially open dial design of

reflective design will not be to everyone’s

yet. Which, upon hindsight, was precisely

the collection. This Mirror version uses

taste, but the sheer overall impact of the

the point.

Previous versions of the DEFY Extreme

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THE WIND-UP

NEO BRIDGES ASTON MARTIN EDITION Blending beauty and engineering.

create an “inverted” movement in order to highlight these essential components. On this particular watch, the bridges support the gear train and the balance, allowing the wearer to witness these components at work.

On this skeletonized dial, the barrel which stores the watch’s power is visible at the 1:30 position. It is supported by a black openworked bridge and bears the

G

irard-Perregaux was

name of the Swiss Manufacture. Since the

named as the Official

Calibre GP0840000-2164 is an automatic

Watch Partner of the

movement, it has its micro rotor at the 10:30

ultra-luxury British brand

position with Aston Martin’s name on it.

Aston Martin in 2021. Both

Color is a powerful tool, as it can be

companies adhere to the same ethos of

utilized to accentuate shapes or give

design excellence and no-compromise

instant recognition to a brand. The bridges

engineering. Today, both brands are

on the Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition

proud to announce their fifth co-branded

is given the color that is most associated

timepiece: The Neo Bridges Aston Martin

with Aston Martin. Upon careful

Edition.

inspection, the green Neo Bridges reveal

This wristwatch is the latest addition to the Swiss watchmaker’s Bridges

different tones as they engage with light.

The lightweight titanium case with

collection. A bridge is a part of a watch

black DLC measures 45 mm in diameter

movement that holds other parts in place.

and is water resistant to 30 meters. The

It usually provides a platform for the gear

case back is fitted with a sapphire crystal

train, the escapement, and other vital

with a white Aston Martin logo decal. It

components. Normally, these bridges

comes with a black rubber strap with

are placed at the back of the movement -

fabric effect and green stitches and a

closer to the case back. But in this case,

titanium DLC triple folding buckle.

the bridges are repositioned to the front, causing the movement designers to

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The Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition is limited to just 250 pieces.

THE WIND-UP

serve as homage to Montblanc’s extensive heritage. By symbolizing the timeless design of the Meisterstück collection, this central counter becomes THE invitation for clients to immerse themselves in the Maison’s rich legacy by encapsulating both the indelible Montblanc DNA and the Maison’s iconic writing instrument collection that dates back to 1924.

Among the noted personalities that attended the festivities last December were Miss Universe Philippines 2023 Michelle Dee; and popular influencers including Gabbie Mariano, Angelique Manto, Kerwin King, LA Aguinaldo, and David Guison.

The Montblanc executives that joined the festivities were wholesale director of Montblanc, Cedric Audoubert; Ben Goh, Marketing & Communications Director of Montblanc Southeast Asia; Maika Bergamo, Area Sales Manager of Montblanc Southeast Asia; Valerie Roque,

NEO 3.0

Montblanc opens its second concept boutique in the Philippines

C

oming off the heels of its’

Merchandise Manager of Montblanc; and luxury goods distributer once again turned

Tun Hui Wong, Marketing & VM Executive

to renowned French interior and product

of Montblanc.

designer Noé Duchaufour Lawrance

While rounding out the top brass were

who designed the interiors of all the

VP for Operations of Ayala Malls, AC

global boutiques of Montblanc and who

Legarda; as well as top executives of the

drew inspiration from the fluid, cursive

Rustan Commercial Corporation including

handwriting reminiscent of Montblanc’s

Lana Vistan, Fine Jewelry and Men’s

iconic fountain pen.

Division Head; Michael Huang, Senior Vice

sister boutique, which

This meant weaving key collections

was launched last March

and products into unique design themes

President for Support and Development; and (naturally) the always charming

at the posh Entertainment

and harmoniously integrating diverse

Donnie Tantoco, President of Rustan

City at the Solaire Resort

elements within the space. This included

Commercial Corporation.

in Parañaque, Metro Manila, Montblanc’s

the captivating Façade Elegance, a

Craftsmanship and expertise are

second NEO 3.0 concept store was

transparent and see-through design

the operative words here as the new

recently inaugurated in another of the

theme that serves as a window into

Greenbelt boutique underscores

country’s top fashion havens.

the Maison’s vision by spotlighting the

Montblanc’s status as a global luxury

Strategically located at one of the main

signature Montblanc snowcap emblem,

brand. It’s goal to provide a refined

entrances of Ayala’s Greenbelt 5 in Makati

this subtly etches the brand’s identity into

shopping experience that seamlessly

City, this new boutique is meant to provide

every fabric of the boutique. Then there

blends storytelling with savoir-faire is

an elevated retail experience for both

is the visual spectacle of the Leather

uunparalleled. And of course, Montblanc’s

new and existing Montblanc clients with a

Wall, an artful display that transforms the

aim to deliver reliable and modern

curated selection of modern, and expertly

entire space into a sensory experience by

products that focuses on the message

crafted products meant to enhance

showcasing the Maison’s latest leather

of “looking stunning whilst dressing for

today’s fast paced, contemporary but

collections curated by Artistic Director,

work” is one that we can all aspire to.

fashionable business lifestyle.

Marco Tomasetta.

To achieve that perfect balance of retail

Last but not the least, the iconic

Aside from the two NEO 3.0 boutiques, Montblanc can also be found at Rustan’s

and design that Montblanc is known for

Meisterstück counter was once again

Makati, Rustan’s Shangri-La, and

worldwide, the German manufacturer and

made the focal point of the boutique to

Rustan’s Cebu.

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COVER WATCH

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YEAR OF THE DRAGON

Chopard celebrates Chinese New Year with a fusion of gold and lacquer

Words by Kit Payumo

COVER WATCH

Master artist Minori Koizumi

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C

hinese dragons seem to be everywhere! We’re not even at the start of the Chinese New Year and already the Chinese dragon can be found as a symbol in sports, appearing in movies, on clothing, and in books! Many people also decorate their bodies with dragon tattoos! And while mythological dragons of all kinds appear in many ancient cultures, nowhere else in the world have they been as revered as they are in China.

In marked contrast to the proverbial firebreathing dragon known in the rest of the world, the Chinese dragon is almost always seen in a positive light, and is heavily associated with life-giving rains and water sources. That’s right, many in the west and western-influenced world have not realized this but the Chinese dragon is almost always found dwelling in water sources as well as the clouds, as opposed to the dank and creepy caves of their fire-breathing, western counterparts. The dragon was also one of the earliest creatures to appear in the tales and legends of ancient China and is often depicted as a gigantic albeit lithe, and agile creature.

The Chinese dragon has long been portrayed as having powerful magic, and when it flies, it is usually accompanied by lighting and thunder. In fact, many historians suggest a link with rainbows and the mythical image of a ‘serpent of the sky,’ which is sometimes seen after rain showers or at waterfalls. Even the anatomy of the Chinese dragon is also markedly different from its western counterpart and is often depicted with a head that looks like that of a camel but with eyes that look like those of a demon. Then, there’s its neck, which looks like that of a snake whereas its paws are those of a tiger.

Most significantly, Chinese culture sees the dragon as a benevolent, wise and powerful creature, one that can have significant influence on the success of businesses and the plentifulness of a harvest. The dragon also offers protection to homes and businesses and represents imperial authority, wealth, prosperity, wisdom, luck and fertility. According to the Chinese zodiac, the mythical and magical beast is also the most auspicious of the 12 animals and is symbolic of authority, honor and dignity.

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COVER WATCH

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Greatly inspired by this mythology, Chopard is presenting the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon to celebrate the Chinese New Year, that happens this year on February 10, 2024.

This piece is an artisanal expression of luck and prosperity is the latest addition to the brand’s Chinese Zodiac collection and comes in the form of an 88-piece limited edition in ethical 18-carat rose gold that fuses gold and lacquer, the mastery of which has rarely been seen in the industry.

Further, the Chinese calendar occurs in a 60-year cycle and is based on the theory of the Five Elements. This sees the 12 early branches, each represented by an animal, and one of the five heavenly stems: Metal, Water, Wood, Fire or Earth, to come together and represent each year.

2024 is the Year of the Wood Dragon, meaning the usually powerful, and endlessly energetic dragon is tempered with the nurturing qualities of the wood element, offering opportunities for evolution, improvement, and abundance. Indeed, the Wood Dragon is seen as a protector of the environment and is a symbol of the harmony of nature. This identity echoes Chopard’s own concern and respect for the Earth and its riches perfectly. Which is why, the Maison has once again called upon their Japanese master lacquerer to create an atmospheric but elegant black dial on which the Chinese dragon can come to life.

In fact, the same craftsman who produced all Chopard’s previous Urushi limited editions handcrafted all 88 dials in Japan: Minori Koizumi.

A master of the delicate Maki-e technique, Koizumi painstakingly brought Chopard’s Chinese dragon to life within the workshops of the centuryold company Yamada Heiando. Each Urushi dial is rendered in exquisite detail, requiring no fewer than 20 hours of meticulous work.

In accordance with this refined ancestral technique, gold flakes placed between the layers of lacquer are made from the sap of the Toxicodendron vernicifluum tree to light up the background. This and mother-of-pearl inlays have resulted in a particularly lively dragon, which seems to snake its way around the dial as it soars high above the clouds, radiating a striking blend of power and grace as it clutches a blue pearl over a black background decorated with sparkles representing the stars.

In accordance with Chopard's Chinese Zodiac collection, this work of art is placed once again within the 18K ethical gold case of the elegant L.U.C XP, a remarkably elegant and comfortable watch to wear with its relatively reasonable dimensions. True, it’s sized just north of the goldilocks sweetspot at 39.5mm in diameter but it’s the lithe 6.80mm profile that makes all the difference.

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COVER WATCH

This thinness is made possible by the 3.30mm thick L.U.C 96.17-L in-house, self-winding caliber, which is shown in all its glory from the exhibition caseback. This vaunted movement runs at 4Hz, and is equipped with an off-centered 22-carat gold micro-rotor, the strong inertia of which ensures the efficient winding of the two barrels, which are stacked in accordance with Chopard’s Twin Technology and guarantee up to 65 hours of power reserve. Naturally, the L.U.C 96.17-L movement is exquisitely decorated with the most refined of finishes. These include bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève and edges finished with anglage, perlage on the baseplates, and elements of solarization on the wheels. Even the micro-rotor is finished with a sunburst pattern that beautifully sets off the L.U.C logo.

In addition, Chopard presented its first L.U.C XP Urushi for the brand’s Chinese Zodiac collection back in 2013 with the Snake edition.

Fast-forward to this year and 2024 marks a milestone for the series as the brand completes the 12-year cycle of the Chinese Zodiac with the addition of the Dragon limited edition. On this occasion, the brand is bringing all twelve L.U.C XP Urushi Chinese Zodiac watches together.

This gives collectors a change to admire these masterpieces as a magnificent whole.

The L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon is presented on a hand-stitched black alligator leather strap with nubuck lining equipped with a pin buckle in polished ethical 18K rose gold.

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“The Wood Dragon is seen as a protector of the environment and is a symbol of the harmony of nature”

J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

20 24

FEATURES Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.

FEATURE

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ENTER THE DRAGON The new Hamilton Ventura looks like it breathes fire Words by Kit Payumo

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FEATURE

O

f all the creatures of the 12-animal Chinese zodiac, the dragon is the sole mythical creature. It also happens to be the most powerful of all the animals, which is why the Year of the Dragon is considered to be the most special. And just in case you’ve been living under a rock for the past few months February 10, 2024 marks the beginning of the Year of the Dragon.

According to the Chinese zodiac, the mythical and magical beast is also the most auspicious of the 12 animals and represents strength, wisdom, luck and prosperity. In China alone, the dragon is symbolic of authority, honor and dignity. No surprise then, that the dragon is thought to signify unprecedented opportunities as those born in the Year of the Dragon are charismatic, ambitious, adventurous, and fearless. They are confident, independent, full of vision, and are not afraid to pursue their dreams and goals.

For everyone else, the dragon is said to grace people with his powers in a dragon year. People can thereby harness not only the creature’s intelligence but being the most powerful of all the zodiac animals, also its natural leadership

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abilities. This means the Year of the Dragon may be the best time for people to pursue their dreams with passion, courage, creativity, and confidence.

Further, the Chinese calendar rotates in a 60-year cycle based on 12 earthly branches, each represented by an animal year, and five heavenly stems: wood, fire, earth, metal and water. February 10 marks the beginning of the Year of the Wood Dragon, meaning the dragon’s transformative power is combined with the nurturing qualities of the wood element, offering opportunities for evolution, improvement, and abundance.

Best of all, the Wood Dragon is the most creative and visionary of the dragons, and people born in that year are said to be optimistic, ambitious, and adventurous. They are generous, compassionate, and are loyal to their friends. They also like to explore new ideas and to challenge themselves.

No surprise then that Swiss watchmaker Hamilton has taken one of their most creative, avant-garde, and distinctive timepieces, a watch that is already stylistically charismatic, ambitious, adventurous, and fearless and modified it especially for the Year of the Dragon.

That’s right, to usher in the Year of the Dragon Hamilton introduces the new Ventura Dragon Skeleton, a new model that features a bold and unconventional skeleton design that celebrates the prestige and strength symbolized by the mythical creature. And just like the dragon is symbolic of creativity and opportunity, the new Ventura Dragon takes its already creatively iconic shape and not only pays tribute to the dragon’s spirit but also pays homage to the Far Eastern culture to celebrate good fortune for everyone.

Being the first electric watch released in the market, the Hamilton Ventura has been the epitome of design and futurism ever since its debut in 1957. Indeed, American designer Richard Arbib perfectly captured that midcentury, “atomic age” design of the 1950s with his powerful triangular case design for the Ventura. A design showcased to great effect by Elvis Presley, when he wore the watch in the 1961 film Blue Hawaii. In the late 1990s the Ventura was highlighted to great effect again as one of the main accessories in the overall eccentric midcentury aesthetic of the Men in Black films.

To pave the way for the Year of the Dragon, the new Ventura Dragon Skeleton starts a new chapter in its already revolutionary story with an unconventional and bold skeletonized design of a dragon’s face right in the middle of the dial, its striking cutaways resplendent of Chinese culture to reveal an auspicious dragon’s face full of power, and wisdom.

To take full advantage of the Ventura’s iconic and avant-garde, geometric shield shape, the Hamilton watch designers positioned the dragon’s full-on stare 90° clockwise on the dial, making this new design a shoo-in for the Ventura’s stylized shield-shaped case that measures 42.5mm x 44.6mm with a thickness of 12.3mm.

Available in two distinct versions, the first Ventura Dragon Skeleton is resplendent in a rose gold PVD-coated stainless steel case matched to its matte black skeletonized dial. The cutaways themselves are bordered in rose gold, all the better to highlight the dragon’s piercing green eyes.

The second model is an almost all-black affair with black PVD augmenting the Ventura’s unique shape and setting off the dragon’s flaming red eyes. A dramatic red second hand in the same color of the dragon’s eyes sweeps across the textured matte black skeletonized dial to combine power with just a hint of dragon-like menace.

Of the two, the rose gold is the more elegant and traditional but the black version is the more stylized and distinct.

Additionally, the inclined geometry of both cases with its thicker underlying triangular wedge on its left side is balanced off by the sapphire crystal that drops dramatically on the right side to meet the crown. Further, the lower triangular wedge is accented with a brushed finish to contrast with the brightly polished upper surface.

Speaking of the King, Elvis Presley would’ve celebrated his 80th birthday in 2015, which is why Hamilton unveiled the Elvis80 Automatic in that year. The H-10-S self-winding movement that powered that watch once again powers the

“THE NEW VENTURA DRAGON SKELETON STARTS A NEW CHAPTER IN (THE VENTURA'S) ALREADY REVOLUTIONARY STORY WITH AN UNCONVENTIONAL AND BOLD SKELETONIZED DESIGN OF A DRAGON’S FACE RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DIAL”

new Ventura Dragon Skeleton. An evolution of the ETA2824, the movement boasts up 80 hours of power reserve at a reduced frequency of 3Hz, and just like the Hamilton Ventura, is an equally uncompromising piece of engineering with a Nivachron balance spring for better resistance against magnetic fields, temperature variations, and shocks.

Last but not least, both watches are matched with a special black rubber strap designed specifically for the occasion. It features a 3D dragon scale pattern to add that perfect finishing touch to the Ventura Dragon Skeleton.

FEATURE

From Beyond the Heavens A truly unique and exclusive timepiece.

Words by Bert Casal

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FEATURE

F

rederique Constant recently celebrated the 15th anniversary of its iconic Tourbillon calibre.

To commemorate this milestone, they unveiled a Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture in platinum featuring a meteorite dial, limited to only 35 pieces. This is an absolute first for the brand, as each individual timepiece is entirely finished by hand. This important task was entrusted to two watchmakers from the Manufacture, whose only mission was to achieve the highest degree of hand-finishing on the movement.

First of all, this piece has a meteorite dial.

Frederique Constant used a fragment of the Gibeon Meteor. According to studies, the Gibeon Meteorite was once a part of an asteroid’s iron core. The asteroid broke apart in a collision with another asteroid, scattering meteorites all over space. After traveling through space for billions of years, it was caught by Earth’s gravitational field and was pulled down to the Earth in a brilliant

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fireball. It exploded high in the atmosphere, showering fragments over a large strewn field in what is now known as Namibia, Africa. The meteorite was officially discovered in 1838. It was named the Gibeon Meteor, after it had fallen near the African town called Gibeon.

Studies on the meteorite showed that it was mostly composed of iron (91.8%) and nickel (7.7%). The rest of it contained other trace elements. The beautiful crystalline patterns found within the Gibeon Meteorites are known as Widmanstatten patterns, and are unique to meteorites. These signature patterns were formed over millions of years of very slow cooling. It is estimated that it took about 1000 years for these molten remnants of planetary core to cool by just 1 degree Celsius, suggesting that these meteorites have been space for many millions of years.

There was a big demand for fragments of the Gibeon Meteorite because it possesses beautiful crystalline patterns. But the sale of the meteorite has been banned by the African government. So jewelry and watch manufacturers will have to make do with what supply they have left.

In terms of craftsmanship, it takes exceptional skill to manipulate the meteorite. Without the proper skills and know-how, the material can break and crumble. Extreme dexterity is needed to cut out a perfectly flat, smooth disc without a single flake falling off that may damage the movement beneath it. The meteorite dial is just 0.5 mm thick and is also protected by a coat of ruthenium, enhancing its natural grey glints and shielding the surface from oxidation. Since the material of the dial is natural, each meteorite dial is different from any other. Not only is this timepiece limited to 35 pieces, each dial is slightly different from the others, making each of the 35 pieces a unique piece on its own.

The meteorite dial is not the only highlight of this watch. Inside the 39 mm platinum case is the Manufacture FC-980, an automatic movement that beats at 28,800 alt/h. All the components of this movement was hand-finished by two watchmakers from the Maison’s Manufacture.

This is the first time that Frederique Constant put so much attention to detail on a movement.

Using traditional instruments and tools, working by hand, they spent weeks on the meticulous finishing of each of the components.

A single bridge alone requires between two to three days of work. Beading and graining of the flanks was done entirely by hand, and all the components have been decorated on both sides,

“The Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture comes with a platinum case.”

even those that are not visible through the crystal case back. Even the screws were block-polished, a demanding technique that involves diamond polishing on a zinc plate. This process was done with all forty-plus screws, and it takes about forty minutes to polish and bevel just one screw.

The FC-980 movement has a tourbillon fitted with a silicon escapement wheel and anchor. The architecture of this in-house developed movement provides collectors with a breath-taking view of the escapement wheel linked to the anchor pallet, the balance wheel rocking back and forth, and the concentric beat of the hairspring. A hand located above the tourbillon cage indicates the passing seconds. It’s also worth noting that Frederique Constant was one of the first watchmakers to adopt silicon in order to make the most of the many benefits it offers. The combined weight

of these purple-hued parts and the rest of the escapement, regulating organs, and tourbillon cage is just 0.59 g. This means that it takes very little energy to get it moving.

Though relatively young, Frederique Constant shows boundless potential. Their aim is to provide carefully crafted yet affordable watches to the market. They have gradually extended their range to include more select timepieces destined for experienced collectors, and the tourbillon is, without any doubt, one of their most prized complications. As it looks to the future, Frederique Constant is seeking to provide ever more sophisticated watchmaking, featuring increasingly delicate aesthetics and constantly revised and enhanced finishes, much like this Manufacture Classic Tourbillon in platinum with a Meteorite Dial.

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FEATURE

Brilliant

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Upon Brilliance Vacheron Constantin adds yet more to the complicated Overseas model line with yet another first.

Words by Katherine Cunanan

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FEATURE

T

he Overseas models from Vacheron Constantin have always been a wonderful enthusiast and collector piece. Wonderful history, technical excellence, wearable pieces that still brought elegance to complication.

Now, for the first time, they have added baguette-cut diamonds to the Overseas collection.

On no less that a Tourbillon. In White Gold. Meet the Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery Reference 6007V/210G-B855.

The base of this model is the very elegant Overseas, in the familiar slim and elegant shape with its distinctive details. The 42.5mm case itself is in 18K White Gold, so it has that special gleam of the precious metal as well as the weightiness that collectors look for, which is fine because the piece itself is rather svelte at 10.39mm thick. The case is, as you would expect, water-resistant tested at a pressure of 5 bar or approximately 50 meters. Perfect for daily use and the occasional rain shower. A soft iron casing ring provides anti-magnetic protection to the movement, which can be seen through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

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On the wrist, the watch will catch the eye with the familiar lustrous blue dial. It is of transparent blue lacquer with a sunburst satin-finished base and a velvet-finished flange. In the six o’clock position would will see the Tourbillon happily twirling away. The Calibre 2160 is developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, and uses a mechanical self-winding movement with a peripheral rotor that allows you to better see the exquisitely-finished movement through the sapphire crystal caseback.

The Tourbillon acts as the small seconds indicator with a color screw on the Tourbillon carriage. Hours and minutes hands are in 18K white gold, highlighted with blue LumiNova for easier reading in the dark. Luminescence isn’t always used on elegant watches because many feel it detracts from the classical feel, however that is not the case with the slim hands of the Overseas.

Especially since they are surrounded by the 18K white gold hour markers set with 9 baguette-cut diamonds in a closed setting. Nine diamonds because the Tourbillon takes up the space where the lower indices would be. They are still there, but smaller and discrete.

It is interesting that while the face itself has diamonds, the overall feel of the dial is more

one of elegance than of bling. The baguette-cut diamonds on the dial add definition and a bit of eye-catching light.

It is outside the face where the diamonds really shine, though honestly all still in support of the overall classic and iconic design and feel of the watch. The blue lacquer on the face is nicely surrounded by the bezel set with 60 of the baguette-cut diamonds in invisible setting.

So they surround the face with their light and brilliance, but are framed by the non-adorned 18K white gold case.

We regularly speak with Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director of Vacheron. We were curious about this move and the articulated choice of the diamonds and shapes. We wanted to know how the watchmakers and gemsetters managed to keep the watch elegant and able to stand on its own as a fine watchmaking piece rather than just becoming a Jewellery watch, and we asked about the history of the Maison with precious gems.

“Baguette-cut diamonds first appeared on certain medieval and Renaissance jewels, but really came into their own at the beginning of the twentieth century,” explained Mr. Selmoni.

“They were particularly popular in the Art Deco

“The watch will catch the eye with the familiar lustrous blue dial”

FEATURE

style and were well suited to new techniques such as the invisible setting. Vacheron Constantin was quick to adopt baguette-cut diamonds in its creations, as seen in many of the Maison’s historical timepieces. Brilliant-cut and baguettecut gems often alternate on the same timepiece, the latter disrupting the rhythm of the round, traditional gems, such as on the Traditionnelle tourbillon jewellery watch featuring precisely this combination of 559 round-cut and baguettecut diamonds on a watch powered by the same Calibre 2160 as the new Overseas. On the other hand, the invisible-set Malte tourbillon regulator is magnificently adorned with 565 exclusively baguette-cut diamonds totalling 19 carats.”

Why was the baguette cut chosen for this particular watch?

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“Vacheron Constantin’s designers and gemsetters introduced this new cut to the Overseas collection because it is beautifully aligned with its sophisticated character,” explained the Style and Heritage Director.

“Compared with the 58-facet brilliant cut most widely used in the jewellery world, the baguette cut with its 25 facets features an edgier, more graphic look that emphasizes the diamond’s purity rather than its brilliance. With its right angles, flat surface and sharp edges, the baguette cut reinforces the architectural design of Overseas.”

When asked about the movement choice in terms of both appropriateness and significance, Mr. Selmoni explained that, “Calibre 2160, one of the thinnest tourbillon movements on the

market at just 5.65 mm, is a genuine technical feat. For the Maison’s watchmakers who developed this calibre presented in 2018, the challenge was to integrate a tourbillon regulator into an ultra-thin self-winding movement. This type of construction entails twin difficulties.

The presence of an oscillating weight and the integration of a tourbillon cage generally imply additional movement thickness. It was therefore necessary to work first on the architecture of the tourbillon itself and then to design a high-efficiency peripheral rotor winding system to achieve an 80-hour power reserve. The watchmakers at Vacheron Constantin were able to respond perfectly to these constraints with ultra-thin Calibre 2160, which is also aesthetically pleasing thanks to the meticulous attention lavished on the decoration.”

Just like the Overseas itself, there is flexibility of use in this new high-jewellery Tourbillon. The watch uses the interchangeable bracelet/strap system which makes swapping things around quite easily and completely tool-free. The watch arrives with an integrated 18K white gold bracelet with half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links and secured y an 18K white gold triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and their comfort-adjust system.

Additional strap options for a different more casual or more sporty look would be to use their blue calfskin or rubber straps, which are secured with an interchangeable 18K white gold pin buckle set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds also with invisible setting.

The new watch is a much-appreciated piece for the more discerning collectors. It introduces two new features. The gleaming white gold case is an excellent frame to the brilliant and deep blue of the dial, and the Tourbillon is a wonderful complicated touch. The baguette-cut diamonds bring in some brightness while still keeping the subtle elegance to a watch meant for those that travel the world. The flexibility of the strap changes and the looks they can bring are yet another draw. In a world where the appreciation of fine watchmaking has become ever more broad, this is a particularly special piece that combines technical prowess with fine watchmaking skill, daily use with a touch of elegance, the brightness of diamonds as a support to deep deep complication. And the unbroken watchmaking history of a truly historic Maison.

SPECIFICATIONS Overseas tourbillon high jewellery Reference 6007V/210G-B955

Calibre

Dial

2160

Translucent blue-lacquered,

Developed and manufactured

sunburst satin-finished base

by Vacheron Constantin

with velvet-finished flange

Mechanical, self-winding,

18K white gold hour-markers set

peripheral rotor

with 9 baguette-cut

31 mm (13½’’’) diameter, 5.65

diamonds, closed setting

mm thick

18K white gold hours &

Approximately 80 hours of

minutes hands highlighted with

power reserve

blue LumiNova®

2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour) 188 components

Bracelet

30 jewels

18K white gold, half Maltese

Hallmark of Geneva certified

cross-shaped polished and

timepieces

satin-brushed links. secured by a 18K white gold triple-

Indications

blade folding clasp with push-

Hours, minutes, small seconds

pieces and comfort-

on tourbillon carriage

adjustment system.

(color screw) Tourbillon Additional straps/clasp Case

Blue calfskin leather strap

18K white gold

with grey stiches

42.5 mm diameter, 10.39 thick

Blue rubber Interchangeable 18K white gold

Bezel set with 60 baguette-cut

pin buckle set with 16

diamonds, invisible setting

baguette-cut diamonds,

Soft iron casing ring ensuring

invisible setting

anti-magnetic protection Transparent sapphire crystal

Total diamond-setting

caseback

85 baguette-cut diamonds, for a

Water-resistant tested at a

total weight of approx.

pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50

3.61 carats (guaranteed

meters)

minimum carats)

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FEATURE

Continuing the Legacy of an Iconic Diver’s Watch A faithful issue to the original 1959 model.

Words by Bert Casal

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FEATURE

L

“The new Longines Legend Diver is certified as a Divers’ Watch (ISO 6425) with a water resistance of up to 300 meters.”

ongines is a watch brand that has long been associated with sports and exploration, whether on land, in the air, or under the sea. Their divers’ watch made an impact when it was first released in 1937. Its design and function has solidified its presence ever since, and continues to attract the attention of divers, not only for its looks, but also for its functionality.

When the Longines diver’s watch was first launched in 1937, it was the very first chronograph with water resistant push pieces.

Because of its success, the brand patented it in 1938. Forwarding to 1959, Longines developed a watch specifically designed for underwater exploration. This came with a revolutionary Super-Compressor case with internal rotating disc and two screw-down crowns. It had a twopiece case measuring 42 mm, had a screw down case back, and was water resistant to 120 meters.

This was the birth of the iconic design of the Longines Legend Diver.

In 1971, Longines produced the SuperCompressor case specifically designed for the Royal Australian Navy divers. Water resistance was improved to 300 meters. It was equipped with an automatic winding calibre with a date display. In 2007, the watch resurfaced under the name Longines Legend Diver. It had a 42 mm case, water resistant to 300 meters, and equipped with an automatic winding movement. Despite its name change, it still carried the internal rotating bezel. Ten years later, Longines released a model with a bronze case.

This year, the Longines Legend Diver is presented with a 39 mm diameter case in stainless steel, remaining faithful to the original 1959 model.

This legendary tool watch is certified as a Divers’ Watch (ISO 6425) with a water resistance of up to 300 meters. The entire watch is also chronometer-certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). During the certification process, the watch head, with the movement running in the case, is tested for 15 consecutive, uninterrupted days in different positions at three different temperature levels to guarantee its precision.

The new Longines Legend Diver is driven by an exclusive Longines L888.6 calibre equipped with a silicon balance spring, offering a magnetic resistance ten times greater that the ISO 764 benchmark standard. It has a power reserve of up to 72 hours.

Other diver’s watches have unidirectional rotating bezels. This ensures that the diver will always have enough air to last throughout their dive. In the event that the bezel accidentally rotated during a dive, it will merely indicate that the diver has less time left for his dive, ensuring that he will not run out of air. The Longines Legend Diver has an internal rotating bezel (although technically, it is a rotating flange). This ring rotates on both directions. The genius of this design is that it cannot be turned accidentally, and here’s why: In order to rotate the ring, the wearer needs to unscrew the crown at 2 o’clock, set the dive time, then screw it securely down to complete the water tight seal. The bi-directional rotating bezel allows the user the quickest way to set the dive time.

The new Longines Legend Diver is available with a black or blue dial. The models are available with a brown leather strap, a blue NATO strap, and a new stainless steel bracelet with a double safety folding clasp.

“This watch is certified as a chronometer by the COSC.”

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FEATURE

Blasts of Color 50 | www.calibremagazine.com

Inspired pairings of metal and stone Words by Katherine Cunanan

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FEATURE

H

ow can you improve on something that is a classic?

How can you make something that is already excellent even more excellent? For Rolex, the answer is simple. You add some sharp color and you add some sparkly bling.

And the result is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual DayDate 36.

Initially launched in 1956, the Day-Date was a game changer. Or rather, a dial-changer. While watches often had the date complication, the Day-Date, as the name implies, added the day of the week to the dial. The day was fully spelt out, and occupied the prime spot at the 12 o’clock.

The arc-shaped window was sleek and unlike the typical square or round windows seen previously.

Currently you can choose which of 26 languages to display for the days of the week. The date window is at the 3 o’clock, and has a Cyclops lens with anti-reflective coating.

The colors of stone chosen for these models are said to be inspired by the Mediterranean, evoking days full of vibrancy and life. The colors are indeed lively and bright, and since stone from Mother Nature is used here, no two watches are alike. Each stone has it’s own flecks and striations, so you might want to look at a few watches before making your final choice.

The precious metals used for the Day-Date range cases also make the watch very exclusive.

You have the choice of 18 ct yellow gold, white gold, or Everose gold (sometimes called pink gold). Some previous models were executed in 950 platinum too. The middle section of the case is crafted from one solid block of the chosen metal. The case back has the added design feature of fine fluting, and is hermetically screwed down by Rolex watchmakers. This guarantees waterproofness to as deep as 100 meters (or 330 feet). The Twinlock winding crown also has a double waterproofness system. Each Day-Date model case measures 36 mm in diameter, 12 mm in thickness, and 20 mm in lug width.

The bracelet is a point of interest here too.

These new version of the Day-Date have the President bracelet, which is the three-piece link bracelet. There is some hidden depth here too, as tucked away inside the links are Rolex-designed and patented ceramic inserts that help enhance flexibility and overall watch longevity. There is also the folding Crownclasp to keep your watch safe. This sleek bracelet design is only used for

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the Day-Date watches and the precious metal versions of the Datejust watch.

We did say there was bling, right? Each bezel is set with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 1.36 carats. The hour markers are also set in diamonds, with the 6 and 9 o’clock in Roman numerals. There are a total of 24 diamonds for the hour markers. Personally, I like how the 1 o’clock and 11 o’clock hour markers seem to frame the day window quite nicely.

The 18 ct Everose gold model is paired with the green aventurine stone dial. Green aventurine is said to have soothing energy, which balances emotions and promotes inner harmony. The 18 ct yellow gold model has the carnelian stone dial.

Carnelian is a mineral that is said to enhance creativity and increase physical energy. The

18 ct white gold model has the turquoise dial.

Turquoise is a mineral with shades from blue to green, and is said to promote abundance and protection. The hands for each watch model match the gold used for the case.

Powering these beautiful watches is the calibre 3255, strong enough for the classic three-hand needs of hours, minutes, and seconds, plus the added complications of the date and day windows. The caliber 3255 is a self-winding mechanical movement that was entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex.

And as with all Rolex watches, the Day-Date 36 has Superlative Chronometer certification, meaning each watch has an acceptable deviation of merely -2 or +2 seconds. The Rolex standard is much higher than the industry standard, mind you.

“How can you make something that is already excellent even more excellent?

For Rolex, the answer is simple.” www.calibremagazine.com

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FEATURE

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Subtle Elegance and

Exquisite Detail What a subtle and elegant way to celebrate the year of the dragon!

Words by Katherine Cunanan

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FEATURE

J

aeger-LeCoultre has always celebrated the arts and the fine craftsmanship we know and love. It also produces some of the most classic and elegant timepieces in the world.

Pieces that by design and finishing alone stand out.

These two don’t always go hand in hand. A new JLC Reverso provides an excellent example of how they can live quite well together.

With the new piece, Jaeger-LeCoultre says that it is paying tribute to their artists and craftspeople, to the talents of their master engravers and enamellists in their Métiers Rares atelier. Those who master the arts that are truly truly rare if not almost impossible nowadays.

This new piece also pays tribute to the sign of the dragon for the 2024 Lunar New Year.

The watch uses the manually would calibre 822, a movement entirely designed, produced and assembled in-house.

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“...over eighty hours of hand engraving were used to create the vision of the majestic dragon floating on golden clouds.”

The Atelier de Metiers Rares (rare handcrafts) of Jaeger-LeCoultre combines 180 very special skill under one roof. This collection of excellence allows the level of artistry and personalization for which the Reverso line has become known.

The dial side of the watch is classic and elegant, beautifully finished hands and indices

moving smoothly above a deep black Grand Feu enamel background. Grand Feu refers to the Great Fire or amount of heat needed to consistently produce the multiple layers of enamel that produce the extreme lustrousness desired.

This process needs to have the kilns running at high consistent heat for long periods of time with pieces coming in and out with each layer applied.

The failure rate is extremely high for this process, so very few of these small faces will pass the test to become part of a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch. Five layers of enamel are required to produce the deep black of the dial, with each layer requiring its own firing and cooling process. At least eight hours of handwork are needed, stretched over several days to do this. Only after the dial passes thatched processes does it become worthy of the next step of polishing so it gets that perfect, uniform shine.

Then let’s flip over the pink gold case.

The same level of Grand Feu creation applies to the other side of the Reverso, but that is just the beginning here. The case-back must have the same opaque black look and feel as the dial side, just to start. The artwork here adds engraving skill to the enamel work, a special technique called modeled engraving. A set of at least ten chisels of varying sizes are used in the many steps needed to shape the metal very precisely. This is meant to bring out more depth and volume and indeed life to the artwork.

For this new piece, over eighty hours of hand engraving were used to create the vision of the majestic dragon floating on golden clouds. The Modelled engraving technique gives depth and volume to the work, with additional finishing being done after all the engraving. The surfaces of the dragon are polished, with the finer details of the scales being hand-drawn in black rhodium.

The clouds are meant to provide contrast, with a sandblasted texture changing the way light is caught and refracted compared to the dragon.

The watch is as simple and elegant as you would expect from a Reverso Tribute, but with a wonderful and literal twist that many may never see that was created in a way that utilizes and also supports amazing handwork and artistry. Subtle elegance at its best.

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FEATURE

A different take on a travel watch The ORIS ProPilot GMT lands once again Words by Katherine Cunanan

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FEATURE

G

MT watches, or dual time watches, or travel watches, whatever you call them, they have always been pieces with some of the most duly useful complications for those that live on the move. But quite often they all have similar looks. Kudos to Swiss watch company ORIS for making something with it’s own look.

The simply-named ProPilot GMT says it all, really. ORIS has a history of making pilot watches that goes back to 1938 and their Big Crown. The oversized crown was meant to allow the gloved hands of airmen to more easily and accurately manipulate the timepieces on which their lives depended. The line has been in production ever since. The ProPilot family takes that heritage to new places while still being true to the brand soul.

The ProPilot GMT is an example of the fun that comes out of the home of ORIS in Holstein.

The piece is an extremely functional tool for travel and flying if you so desire. But with a few special touches, of course.

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“The ProPilot family takes that heritage to new places while still being true to the brand soul.”

The ProPilot GMT has a 41.5mm stainless steel case, but with a stealthy-grey PVD treatment so it looks and feels somehow both more rugged and less flashy. The hour and minute hands are strong and readable, with the hour numbers slightly less strong so it is easy to take a quick look at the hands and tell the time.

Both hands and indices of course are filled with SuperLuminova. The sweep seconds hand is thin so as not to cause any confusion, and whitetipped. The second time zone hand has a red pointer which is close to the 24 hour numerals that appear inside the circumference of the dial, not on the bezel.

This is where more particularly ORIS detail comes in. The bezel doesn’t have the usual 24 hour numerals because it has a pulsometer scale,

which historically and even today can be used by doctors for measuring heart rates. Why this choice? Because ORIS has had a long history of relationships with aeromedical organizations and flying doctors. Now lets take a closer look at the gradient dial. It can symbolize a heartbeat, or it can speak to adventure, both of which match up to the flying doctors idea. It also speaks to the fact that ORIS rather quietly produces some of the best watch dials in the industry.

So a very different GMT or travel watch, with a different look because it has a different and very authentic story behind it. It straps on, or in, with a black textile strap with red leather lining and the ORIS “LIFT” clasp you open like an airplane seatbelt. The ORIS 798 automatic movement has a 42-hour power reserve.

SPECIFICATIONS ProPilot GMT Reference No.

01 798 7773 4268-07 3 20 14GLC

CASE Material Grey-PVD-plated stainless steel Size 41.5 mm, 1.634 inches Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, antireflective coating inside Case back Grey-PVD-plated stainless steel, screwed, see-through mineral glass Operating devices Grey-PVDplated stainless steel screw-in security crown and pulsometer bezel Interhorn width 20 mm

MOVEMENT Number Oris 798 Dimensions Ø 25.60 mm, 11 1/2’’’ Functions Centre hands for hours, minutes, seconds and GMT function, date window, instantaneous date and GMT corrector, fine-timing device and stop-second Winding Automatic Power reserve 42 hours Vibrations 4 Hz (28’800 A/h) Jewels 25

DIAL Design Red gradient Luminous material Indices and hands filled with SuperLumiNova® Indices Applied Strap Black textile strap with red leather lining and grey-PVD-plated stainless steel ‘Lift’ folding clasp

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FEATURE

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KING OF THE COURT Maurice Lacroix embraces the dynamic sport of Beach Volleyball Words by Kit Payumo

O

n the eve of the Royal Championships in Rotterdam, Maurice Lacroix unveiled its latest special edition: the AIKON #TIDE KOTC, a new timepiece forged from its partnership with King of the Court (KOTC), which the watchmaker describes as, “An innovative and highly entertaining series of Beach Volleyball tournaments played in different cities around the globe.” Yup, you read that right: “beach” and “cities.”

Unlike “regular” beach volleyball tournaments, KOTC is deeply rooted in urban culture… literally.

Held in the middle of some of the densest urban locations, KOTC becomes a highly accessible sporting format that practically invites spectators to become part of the action courtesy of skyboxes, stadiums, and ground-level seating arranged around the perimeter of the court just a few feet from the players. These modern day coliseums allow spectators to come within touching distance of the adrenaline-packed action and see the world’s finest male and female Beach volleyball teams do battle to the death (so to speak).

It’s literally a crazy atmosphere with modified beach volleyball rules, a truly magnetic mix of dynamic rallies, and the banging beats of the hottest DJs, all of which conspire to bring the excitement to a fever pitch in a series of matches that always promises excitement and madness.

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FEATURE

As the official timekeeper of the KOTC, Maurice Lacroix has endeavored to capture the essence of beach volleyball while making a powerful statement for sustainability. The result is the AIKON #TIDE KOTC, a new watch that unites the AIKON’s urban-themed design language with KOTC’s own deeply rooted urban volleyball culture. Throw in a healthy helping of #tide sustainability, and this latest AIKON #TIDE becomes more than just a timepiece, it becomes a symbol of change as it headlines the promise of a cleaner, better society.

Unlike the first AIKON Quartz Chronograph KOTC Special Edition, the AIKON #TIDE KOTC is a poster child for sustainability by being made from ocean-bound upcycled plastic. That’s right: it takes a staggering 17 bottles to create just one AIKON #TIDE timepiece, and by throwing in its user-friendly packaging, this has resulted in 17 fewer plastic bottles polluting our oceans. And that’s not all, this KOTC special edition shares the same attributes as all the other members of the AIKON family, namely Swiss quality, precision, unparalleled wearer comfort, and high perceived value, which (come to think of it) is consistent with all Maurice Lacroix collections.

More distinctive and arresting than the watchmaker’s first KOTC special edition, the AIKON #TIDE KOTC is a visual masterpiece dressed in stealthy matte black accented with brilliant golden highlights. More specifically, the matte black case and bezel are understated, designed to play a deferential role to the detailed center court also known as… the dial, the goldtinted details of which shines through the shroud of darkness by displaying a mosaic of the KOTC crown-themed emblem.

Examining the dial further reveals hour and minute hands, as well as indexes swathed in gobs of white Super-LumiNova for extreme visibility even in the most adrenaline fueled volleyball matches. This prominence extends to the minute track, which is presented on a golden flange encircling the dial, while the prevailing date is shown at 3 o’clock adding practicality to the inthe-now flourishes.

Last but not least is the black rubber strap, which sports a golden Maurice Lacroix ‘M’ logo.

It can be changed “on-the-fly” and in time for the next match courtesy of the brand’s innovative Easy Strap Exchange system. This enables effortless strap swaps without the need for any specialized tools.

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“By partnering with King of the Court, has guaranteed that message of a better, cleaner world just reached a much wider, and more enlightened audience”

“The AIKON #tide KOTC perfectly encapsulates who we both are,” says Stéphane Wasser, Managing Director of Maurice Lacroix. “Maurice Lacroix is urban, accessible and celebrates success, values we share in common with King of the Court. Moreover, we also wanted to showcase the AIKON #tide, a sustainable approach to watchmaking that removes plastic from our oceans while delivering Swiss precision timing. It’s a win-win.”

To which, Wilco Nijland CEO & Founder Queen & King of the Court added, “Our partnership with Maurice Lacroix felt from the beginning way more than just a collaboration. It feels like we are part of the ML family and that we are one team.When I saw the first King of the Court watch

Maurice Lacroix created for us: it was such a special feeling to see this watch: great pure mix of both brands in a jewel.With the introduction of the second KOTC watch, we add such a beautiful watch to the ‘collection’.

A watch with a true story behind it: made from plastic from the ocean and created for beach volleyball lovers.”

By retrieving plastic bottles from the ocean and repurposing them into the AIKON #TIDE watches, Maurice Lacroix has demonstrated its commitment to making the world a cleaner, more sustainable place for everyone. And by partnering with King of the Court, the watchmaker has guaranteed that message of a better, cleaner world just reached a much wider, and more enlightened audience.

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FEATURE

THE MERGING OF LEGENDS TAG Heuer honors the Year of the Dragon with two limited edition watches.

Words by Bert Casal

A

s tradition dictates, New Year’s Eve is celebrated with a beautiful display of fireworks. People joyously join the countdown, eagerly awaiting the arrival of the first second to tick after midnight. But who started this tradition?

In ancient China, it was believed that a mythical beast called the Nian, would come on New Year’s Eve to eat the villagers. At one point, the villagers decided to do something about it.

Their solution was to hide somewhere outside of the village. An elderly man approached the people and said that he was going to fix the problem. He went to the town and put red paper all around and set off firecrackers.

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FEATURE The following day, the villagers came back and saw that nothing had been destroyed. They figured out that the color red and loud noises kept the Nian away. So every year after that, they would wear red clothes, hang red lanterns, light firecrackers and beat drums to scare Nian away.

The world celebrates the new year on the first of January. But the Chinese follow a different calendar. The Chinese follow a lunisolar calendar.

It combines the lunar and solar calendars. The date of the Lunisolar calendar indicates both the moon phase and the time of the solar year (the position of the sun in the Earth’s sky). Usually, the Chinese New Year falls between the period from January 21st to February 20th.

Aside from having a different new year’s celebration, the Chinese also have their own zodiac. Their Chinese calendar assigns an animal to each year in a repeating twelve-year cycle. In traditional Chinese culture, the Chinese zodiac is very important and exists as a reflection of Chinese philosophy and culture. It is also believed that the animal sign that one is born on is how others perceive or how one presents oneself.

These are the animals that comprise the Chinese zodiac: Rat, Ox, Tiger, Rabbit, Dragon, Snake, Horse, Goat, Monkey, Rooster, Dog and Pig. This year is the year of the Dragon. If you take a look at the roster of animals in the Chinese zodiac, the Dragon is the only mythical creature in the line up. For the Chinese, the Dragon represents good luck, strength, and health. It also represents power and authority.

An ancient folk story narrates that the Jade Emperor decreed that a race be held among the animals. The first twelve animals that reach him will be named for each of the twelve-year cycle.

The Rat, Ox, Tiger and Rabbit were the first four that came in. The Dragon arrived fifth. When the emperor asked why such a mighty beast capable of flight did not come first, the Dragon said that he had to produce rain to a village that was suffering a drought.

“THIS TIMEPIECE SEAMLESSLY MERGES CHINESE CULTURAL RICHNESS WITH TAG HEUER'S RACING DNA.”

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FEATURE

For the Chinese, the Dragon represents power and valiancy, excellence and determination, dignity and divinity. A dragon is believed to have the powers to overcome obstacles to see success.

He is spirited, confident, enthusiastic, intelligent, and determined.

To honor the Year of the Dragon, TAG Heuer is pleased to announce the release of two limited edition watches that merge Chinese cultural richness with the brand’s racing DNA. These watches embody tradition and innovation, encapsulating the essence of the Year of the Dragon. Crafted in rose gold and steel, these watches pay homage to Chinese culture and the success embodied by the Chinese Dragon, resulting in a watch that radiates majesty and celebration.

The steel version of the watch boasts a sun raybrushed silver dial and rhodium-plated indexes.

The other watch features 18K 5N rose goldplated dial and indexes. The distinct red “azure” subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock add a captivating contrast with the dial. Discreetly located above the 6 o’clock index is a calligraphic dragon. This emblem not only pays homage to tradition but

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“THE SYNERGY BETWEEN THE CHINESE DRAGON AND TAG HEUER IS EVIDENT IN THE STRENGTH AND PRECISION OF THE MOVEMENT AND IN THE BOLD DESIGN OF THESE TIMEPIECES.”

also exemplifies TAG Heuer's commitment to honoring heritage within a contemporary design.

The caseback design is fully customized to reveal a printed Chinese Dragon figure around the sapphire glass. Around it are special engravings to indicate the watch’s limited release, “Limited Edition” along “One of 300” for the steel version and “One of 50” for the more exclusive rose gold version.

The Calibre Heuer 02 is visible through this stunning caseback. This in-house developed movement offers great timekeeping precision and performance, thanks to its vertical clutch and column wheel. Its 80-hour power reserve makes sure that the watch still runs after resting on your table over the weekend.

An alligator leather strap in an elegant red complements the steel and 18K 5N rose gold cases, enhancing the watch’s sophisticated and racing allure.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Year of the Dragon embraces a legacy deeply intertwined with the Chinese culture. These watches are not mere accessories, they are a symbolic tribute to a year of power, luck, and prosperity.

SPECIFICATIONS

polished hand

• Beveled, domed sapphire

- 9 o’clock: red “azurage”

crystal with double anti-

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

permanent second indicator;

reflective treatment Steel

rhodium plated polished hand

standard crown at 3 o’clock • Fine brushed, polished steel

The Year of the Dragon Steel edition

• Rhodium plated facetted,

round pushbutton at 2 o’clock

polished applied indexes with

Fine brushed, polished steel

Movement

red lacquer and white Super-

round pushbutton at 4 o’clock

• Calibre Heuer 02, Automatic

LumiNova®

• Steel screw-down sapphire

• Rhodium plated facetted,

caseback with special

Functions

polished hour and minute hands

engraving “LIMITED EDITION”

• Hours, minutes, seconds, date,

with white Super-LumiNova®

& “ONE OF 300” and a Chinese

chronograph

• Red lacquered central triangle

Dragon pattern printed Water

hand

resistance: 100 meters

Dial

• Rhodium plated polished TAG

• Silver sunray brushed dial

Heuer applied logo 6 o’clock

Bracelet

• Silver flange with 60 second/

angled date

• Red alligator leather strap

minute scale 3 counters:

• “CARRERA“ & Chinese Dragon

• Steel folding clasp with double

symbol printed

safety pushbuttons; TAG Heuer

- 3 o’clock: red “azurage”

shield

minute chronograph counter; rhodium plated polished hand

Case

- 6 o’clock: silver sunray

• 42mm diameter

Dimensions

brushed hour chronograph

• Steel fine brushed, polished

• Lug-to-lug: 48,6 mm

counter; rhodium plated

case Steel polished bezel

• Thickness: 14,33 mm

SPECIFICATIONS

chronograph counter; 18K

polished case 18K 5N rose gold

5N rose gold plated polished

polished bezel

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

hand

• Beveled, domed sapphire

- 9 o’clock: red “azuré”

crystal with double anti-

permanent second indicator;

reflective treatment 18K 5N rose

The Year of the Dragon Rose Gold edition

18K 5N rose gold plated

gold standard crown at 3 o’clock

polished hand

• Fine brushed, polished 18K

Movement

• 18K 5N rose gold plated

5N rose gold round pushbutton

• Calibre Heuer 02, Automatic

facetted, polished applied

at 2 o’clock Fine brushed,

indexes with red lacquer and

polished 18K 5N rose gold

Functions

white Super-LumiNova®

round pushbutton at 4 o’clock

• Hours, minutes, seconds, date,

• 18K 5N rose gold plated

18K 5N rose gold screw-down

chronograph

facetted, polished hour and

sapphire caseback with special

minute hands with white Super-

engraving “LIMITED EDITION”

Dial

LumiNova®

& “ONE OF 50” and a Chinese

• 18K 5N rose gold plated sunray

• Red lacquered central triangle

Dragon pattern printed Water

brushed dial

hand

resistance: 100 meters

• 18K 5N rose gold plated flange

• 18K 5N rose gold plated

with 60 second/minute scale 3

polished TAG Heuer applied

Bracelet

counters:

logo 6 o’clock angled date

• Red alligator leather strap

- 3 o’clock: red “azuré” minute

• “CARRERA” & Chinese Dragon

• 18K 5N rose gold pin buckle;

chronograph counter; 18K

symbol printed

TAG Heuer shield

hand

Case

Dimensions

- 6 o’clock: 18K 5N rose gold

• 42mm diameter

• Lug-to-lug: 48,6 mm

plated sunray brushed hour

• 18K 5N rose gold fine brushed,

• Thickness: 14,33 mm

5N rose gold plated polished

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FEATURE

A Stunning Moon (phase) now even more The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in Platinum Words by Katherine Cunanan

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FEATURE

T

he world may be saying Platinum, but we will talk about the moon.

The new Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is in a 41.9mm 950-platinum case, and it follows the previously-released versions in a white gold case with a pink-gold dial and a version in a pink gold case with a grey solid-silver dial. The combinations for those two are indeed striking, each with its own feel.

So what do they do for a new platinum case model? They go black. And it pops. It is still elegant, of course. The displays, while off-centre, are still harmonious in appearance But the moon jumps out at you.

The thin and shapely hour and minute hands are off to 3 o’clock from center, with the day indicator hand off to 9 o’clock, with the outsize date above it.

Months are indicated on the periphery.

It is the moon phase indication that steals the show though, especially now that the deep blue sky and the silver moon are set very nicely against that deep black dial.

Oh and that deep blue sky behind the moon?

Daytime it is brighter, nighttime darker and has stars. Actually they added the day/night indication in a very balanced and beautiful way. It is done across two levels, a solid-gold celestial disc with graduated blue hues that rotates on its own axis every 24 hours. The white gold moon in front of it orbits as the moon would, in 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds. This indication system has been used by Lange before, in their Lange 1 Moon Phase that was released in 2016.

There is also a subtle leap year indicator, just around 6 o’clock. There is beauty and simplicity on this piece, but the face is above the complication beneath. A Perpetual Calendar is a very grand Grand Complication indeed. “The commitment to tailor the complex mechanical requirements to the characteristic design of the LANGE 1 presented our developers with constructive challenges, as the large peripheral ring has to be advanced instantaneously by 30 degrees from one month to the next,” explains Anthony de Haas, Director of Product Development. “Throughout the month, energy is collected via a cam in order to provide the required power exactly on time, at midnight on the last day of the month.”

There is intricacy in simplicity, there is beauty in complication. It takes a lot of work to make things look so simple sometimes.

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SPECIFICATIONS Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Reference 345.036E

Movement Lange manufacture calibre L021.3, self-winding, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; unidirectional winding rotor in 21-carat gold with centrifugal mass in 950 platinum; balance cock engraved by hand No. of movement parts 621 No. of jewels 63 No. of screwed gold chatons 5 Escapement Lever escapement Oscillator Shock-resistant balance with eccentric posing weights; balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency of 21,600 semioscillations per hour; precision beat adjustment mechanism with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring Power reserve 50 hours when fully wound Functions Time indicated in hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds dial; perpetual calendar with instantaneously advancing displays for outsize date, day of week, month and leap year; moon-phase display with integrated day/night indicator Operating elements Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; correctors for switching all calendar displays or for individual switching of the month, day of week and moon phase Case dimensions Diameter: 41.9 millimetres; height: 12.1 millimetres Movement dimensions Diameter: 35.8 millimetres; height: 8.8 millimetres

“There is intricacy in simplicity, there is beauty in complication.”

Crystal and transparent caseback Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9) Case 950 platinum Dial Solid silver, black Hands Rhodiumed gold Strap Hand-stitched leather, black Buckle Prong buckle in 950 platinum

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FEATURE

T

he connection between TUDOR and the US Navy divers is being given tribute with the release of the TUDOR Pelagos FXD. TUDOR diving watches were used by the US Navy in the 1950s, and even officially adopted and included in the equipment kits by 1948. These watches are known for being accurate, reliable, and extremely robust. Knowing the extreme conditions that US Navy divers go through, the watch they need would be no less strong.

US Navy divers and the SEAL teams had training missions to simulate the actual missions they would be sent on in the field. Only in this case, the ‘field’ was typically a field of water.

The sailors had scuba diving training, thus the need for the unidirectional bezel. They also had training in underwater submarine maintenance, dive school tactics, and Underwater Demolition Team missions (or UDTs). Military, and TUDOR, archives show the TUDOR Oyster Submariner ref 7928 as the assigned Diving Watch. The references 7016 and 7021 also make their appearance in the handbooks as “Navyapproved” diving watches.

The Pelagos FXD has some similar aspects as the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner ref 7016 from the 1960s, but it also has aspects from other models too. It’s the combination that pulls together the best of different models without losing the focus of being a divers watch.

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A nod to the military connection with TUDOR. Words by

Katherine Cunanan

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FEATURE

CHECK THAT DIAL The dial of the TUDOR Pelagos FXD is a nice matte black with applied hour markers.

A closer look reveals the special detail of the hours markers, in that they are rectangular for the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and are square for the others, save the 12. The 12 o’clock marker gets the triangular shape to make it distinct. The watch is a three-hander, with hour, minutes, and seconds. The hour hand is a ‘snowflake’, which makes it easier to identify when underwater. The ‘snowflake’ hands have been a hallmark of the TUDOR divers’ watches since 1969. The hour markers and hands are treated with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova luminous material to aid in the readability. The PELAGOS name appears discretely above the 6 o’clock hour marker.

WHAT’S IN A NAME? The case comes in at 42mm of satin-brushed titanium, with the fixed strap bars. The case is masterfully crafted from a single block of titanium, making it even more sturdy and strong.

And yes, the Pelagos FXD gets its name from the fixed strap bars. The unidirectional rotatable bezel is also in titanium with a ceramic insert.

The ‘unidirectional’ part here is always critical when it comes to divers watches. The bezel allows you to note the time elapsed while underwater.

Anyone familiar with diving knows that you don’t want to stay too long lest you run out of oxygen in your tank. So you set the bezel and to note the time, and even if you inadvertently hit the bezel and it moves to a different time, it will only show less remaining time, which is safe for a diver than thinking they have more remaining time. The bezel has the 60-minute graduation marked on it, also with grade 1X Swiss Super-LumiNova

SEE CLEARLY NOW We have seen luminous material in watches before, and it serves the purpose of increased visibility. Super-LumiNova is charged by light, whether sunlight or artificial light. Light hitting the Super-LumiNova activates the electrons, which then begin to energize and create a phosphorescent glow. There are different colors for Super-LumiNova, ranging from bright white, through yellow and greenish yellow, all the way to bluish green. The phosphorescent glow diminishes over time though, with the glow being most intense immediately after exposure to the light source, then slowly fading as time passes.

But fret not, for exposing the Super LumiNova to

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“TUDOR watches are steeped in history and yet are very relevant for the modern day”

a light source once again will get those electrons excited all over again.

And in case you didn’t notice, we mentioned grade X1 Super-LumiNova specifically in this article. Grade X1 is the newest formulation of SLN (Super-LumiNova), and has shown an improvement of up to 60% luminescence even two hours after the exposure to the light source.

KEEP IT TOGETHER Another interesting factor in the Pelagos FXD is the one-piece fabric strap. It has a self-gripping fastening system. The forest green strap is nicely complemented with the red central stripe, which also picks up the red on the dial. The one-piece fabric strap has been a TUDOR hallmark since 2010. The strap are woven on Jacquard looms that date back to the 19th century, from the St Etienne region in France.

Why is the self-gripping fastening important?

The strap can be easily adjusted to suit different wrist sizes. And because the watch comes with an additional strap, a one-piece rubber strap that is embossed with a fabric motif. This makes changing straps as easy as possible.

POWER FOR THE DIVE WATCH Powering this divers watch is the Calibre MT5602, and as expected, of a TUDOR Manufacture Calibre, the rotor is openwork in tungsten, with both satin-brushed and sand-blasted details. The non-magnetic silicon hairspring adds to the reliability and precision.

This calibre is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), and it actually exceeds that standard. A chronometer is a watch that is extremely accurate.

COSC allows a variation of between -4 and +6 seconds, but TUDOR has their internal standard of -2 and +4 seconds. The watch is also termed ‘weekend proof,’ meaning you can give your other watches space on your wrist for the weekend because you can take the Pelagos FXD off on Friday evening and not need to wind it when you put it back on your wrist on Monday morning.

THE DIVERS WATCH The TUDOR Pelagos FXD has all the makings of another successful offering from the Manufacture.

The history behind only goes to show that the TUDOR watches are steeped in history and yet are very relevant for the modern day. Who wouldn’t want a watch suited for a military diver, even if your missions only exist in the boardroom?

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FEATURE

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Vision, Wisdom and Passion

Patek Philippe Honors tradition and vision with something they will never use again.

Words by Carl Cunanan

FEATURE

T

here is a feeling in groups and companies and organizations when they work. There is a passion, a consistency and a vision. There is forward thinking while there is a clear and often living link to their past.

Patek Philippe is a wonderful example of that.

I am not talking about their products, but about what allows these products to be created.

About what allows the group to be the force it is in guiding the watch industry.

About being responsible keepers of a flame.

If you are fortunate enough to see deep into the inner workings of companies like this, you see this. But not necessarily from their processes or their profits or their products.

You see it from their people. And how they talk and act and react and plan. You see that they fully believe in a vision.

Patek Philippe is known for being a familyowned watch company, and they have gone back generations. But that feeling of family extends past the familial. You see and feel and hear it in the tone of those associated with them.

They make people want to be responsible.

And it is completely natural.

During and after the recent pandemic when we sat with President Thierry Stern after a long while, he spoke of how they switched around the release schedules of some of the products they had in development. I asked if they had rushed something in particular and he had said oh no, we are always in development of so many new things on so many levels. Then he talked about seeing

The Grand Feu black enamel dial features a portrait of Philippe Stern in Grand Feu white and gray miniature painting on enamel.

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that all his life. And he talked about how thinking that far forward and working that hard was the only way they could properly do what they believe they are supposed to do.

And this wasn’t about how they took care of numbers, this was about how they took care of history. And of an industry that looks to them with reverence and for guidance.

These thoughts came to me recently with the launch of an amazing new and highly complicated movement, inside a very special watch. The watch is the Minute Repeater Alarm Reference 1938P-001 and the movement is Calibre R AL 27 PS. This very grand Grand Complication is startlingly simple on the face, as I believe the best minute repeaters should be.

But this watch has a slight and very personal difference. On the upper left hand side of the

The platinum Officer’s-style case is fitted with a sapphire crystal case-back protected by a hinged dust cover hand-engraved with “À mon père, 85 ans de passion horlogère”.

dial is an outline of inspiration and leadership.

Patek Philippe chose to use this very important complication first as a way to honor Philippe Stern, in celebration of his 85th birthday. Philippe Stern was president of the manufacture from 1993 to 2009 and is current honorary president.

A fitting thing to do, the minute repeater is his favorite complication and he has a tremendous personal history with it. He announced the launch of the now-famous self-winding R 27 calibre in 1989 for the 150th anniversary of Patek Philippe, the first such movement designed and built entirely in their own workshops.

This new watch builds on that calibre’s history, and on the 150 years before it. Just as everything in the company does. The current president of Patek Philippe is Thierry Stern (of the fourth generation of the Stern family and Philippe’s son). Both these two listen to every minute repeater and decide whether or not it is up to their highest standards before it can ever leave the workshop.

This new and very special movement requires some serious development. The two systems had to use the same two classic gongs and still use the familiar sliding piece for activation. To those that understand the complication involved in all this, it meant that they had to create a system that would somewhere tell the mechanism to do one of two things but still having the power to activate the alarm whereas the minute repeater is normally powered upon activation. This process may look simple to many, but it required 227 new parts and resulted in four new patents.

Now understand this.

The new movement will never be used again.

There will only be 30 pieces made.

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FEATURE

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PRETTIER SNOWFLAKES Grand Seiko brings yet more beauty to beauty Words by

Katherine Cunanan

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FEATURE

SBGA211

STGF359

O

n one hand, the new watches aren’t exactly a surprise. It isn’t like they weren’t popular already.

The snowflakes are always eye-catching.

For many, the simplicity of the snowflake pattern on the dials of watches such as the OG snowflake SBGA211 and the more recent and more feminine STGF359 made them the icons, what exemplified Grand Seiko. Special, but also good value for excellent finish and unique identity.

The SBGA211 put together much of what Grand Seiko stood for. The Spring Drive movement brought consistency with the 9R calibre that was precise but also wonderfully finished.

The face brought the now-iconic “snowflake” feel.

All encased in a high-intensity titanium case for lightness and wearability. The STGF359 brought the snowflake dial to smaller wrists with a stainless steel case of 28.9mm and using a 4J52 Quartz movement. The snowflake as petite.

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FEATURE

SBGX355

Now we have two new snowflakes, and they will bring the popular dial out to even more wrists.

The SBGX355 comes in a 37mm case, but with a 9F62 quartz movement. This means a kind of mid-size snowflake but without the power reserve on the dial. The movement choice means accuracy of plus or minus ten seconds a year, and the prevention of chipped nails if that is a concern. In case you look at this as “just” a ladies’ watch, note that highly collectible watches have already dipped into this size range with some very sought after pieces moving even to 34mm in some very developed markets like Japan.

Another snowflake brings the bling. STGF385 takes what people call the baby snowflake and brings a bit more sparkle — thanks to the 44 diamonds on the bezel.

These new models build on the popularity of the snowflake but not in a way that pushes the prices up at least for the one without the diamonds. They actually give people more choices and for some more wearable usable options. More beauty with more accessibility for one, with just a little (or a lot) more sparkle for the other.

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STGF385

“The snowflakes are always eye-catching.”

J A N U A R Y- F E B R U A R Y

20 24

PARALLEL PASSION Desirable Diversion

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PARALLEL PASSION

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Down to the sea in… Bentley?

LUXURY ON THE WATER

Words by

Katherine Cunanan

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“THE BEST OF MATERIALS, FINEST HANDCRAFTING, AND INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGY”

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W

hat do you know when you’re known the world over for luxury motorcar interiors? If you are Bentley, you hit the water.

For most people, the beautiful interiors of luxury sailing yachts are the epitome of beauty and elegance. For the truly inspired, however, they are but the starting points.

That, apparently, is when they call Bentley.

A very discerning private client commissioned a special building from Contest Yachts. The client wished for his new 20-meter Contest 67CS Luxury Sailing Cruiser to have the level of quality interior he was accustomed to in one of his other vehicles, his Bentley. The end result is a completely bespoke interior from those that offer bespoke at the highest levels.

Contest Yachts is a highly awarded Dutch builder of bespoke semi-custom luxury sailing cruisers used by owners for all sorts of adventures and coastal, offshore and bluewater exploration.

Using the best of materials, finest hand-crafting and innovative technology, each is built with extensive owner input to exactly match personal requirements. Contest Yachts is a third-generation, family-owned constructor yacht constructor.

The creation of the bespoke interior combined the worlds of modern technology and heritage craftsmanship, of luxury and of the strict demands of oceangoing transportation. The two companies worked together to create a unique interior that they say pushed creative boundaries

PARALLEL PASSION in both groups. They needed prototyping methods such as 3D printing in order to create full mockups of pieces that had to be perfectly fit, such as the sofa which had to then be created within the demanding quality standards and finish levels of Bentley Bespoke. Their iconic diamond quilted hides were book matched across the entire vessel interior, with details such as Tirunelveli boxes and drinks coasters created from scratch.

The hand cross stitching usually used on Bentley steering wheels has found its way onto the yacht interior as well, adapted and adopted throughout.

There are features from other Bentley out-of-car creations, such as the Malvern Chair that is a tribute to the geometry of Bentley Cars. Other bespoke designs include a bespoke bar and vanity unit. The Captain’s Chair and “egg” table were also trimmed by Bentley, and that 3D printed sofa mockup was then built by hand at Bentley’s engineering facility and also precision finished in Bentley Trim.

“We are delighted to be working with Bentley Motors, adding the option of fully matched Bentley auto and yacht interiors to our portfolio,” says Contest CEO Arjen Conijn. “Previously for an enthusiast of both Contest and Bentley brands we styled and fabricated a one-off example of our Contest 59CS. This new arrangement, though, takes our cooperation to quite another level, creating the option of an additional dedicated line of Bentley-featured Contest Yachts.”

“Yacht interiors, like that of a car, must be exact with precision detail. Whilst it was a challenge for our design teams to adapt their craft

skills to an interior, providing a totally bespoke extension to our automotive interiors for the water we are delighted with the result. The finished article is a testament to the incredible talent and skill of our craftsmen and women who rose to the challenge and pushed the boundaries of what is possible,” said Dr. Matthias Rabe, Member of the Board for Engineering at Bentley Motors.

This collaboration paves the way for new opportunities. A fully matched Bentley auto yacht interior perhaps? They can now provide exciting new bespoke opportunities for owners to enjoy the shared values and heritage in luxury performance and lifestyle of both brands, on land and on the ocean.

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PARALLEL PASSION

Curve Your Enth usiasm

IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THIS AWARD-WINNING GAMING MONITOR. Words by

Bert Casal

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orsche Design, in collaboration with AGON by AOC proudly presents the Porsche Design | AOC AGON PRO PD49, a curved gaming monitor that possesses both technological prowess and a statement of style and performance. This superb gaming monitor garnered awards at both the iF Design Award 2023 and the Red Dot Award: Product Design 2023.

The iF Design Award is one of the most celebrated and valued design competitions worldwide. The aim of this body is to give recognition to well-designed industrial products.

They are a symbol for excellent form, for aesthetic quality, and for user-focused, ergonomic and efficient design in all disciplines.

P

The Red Dot Design Award is an international, annual design competition for product and industrial design, brand and communication design, as well as design concepts. The distinction of having a Red Dot Award has become established internationally as one of the most sought-after seals of quality for good design.

The design approach of the PD49 mirrors the intricate details of a Porsche sports car.

The PD49’s sandblasted aluminum cast stand, reminiscent of the steering wheel and wheel spokes of a sports car, anchors the monitor with a sense of grandeur. The rear of the monitor is inspired by the radiator grille of a Porsche 911.

From a unique On-Screen Display design to an assertive boot-up logo, every detail underscores elegance. The dynamic and customizable RGB Light FX elements embellish both the back and front logos, oozing style with every glow.

The PD49 is a gaming monitor that is powered by a state-of-the-art and extremely thin QDOLED panel in a 49” (124.46 cm) size and 32:9 aspect ratio. It delivers esports-level performance for high-end competition with its 240Hz refresh rate and 0.03 ms GtG response time.

With a thickness of approximately 5 mm, the PD49 houses a curved, extremely thin QDOLED panel that stretches over a commanding 49" display. Its 1800R curvature encompasses the user’s entire field of view. Boasting a breathtaking Double QHD resolution of 5120 × 1440 pixels, it is set to redefine visual experiences. Achieving a peak brightness of 1000 nits and certified with

“THE PD49 DELIVERS ESPORTSLEVEL PERFORMANCE FOR HIGH-END COMPETITION.” VESA DisplayHDR True Black 400, it showcases radiant visuals, deeply saturated with 1.07 billion colors thanks to its 10-bit color depth, covering 99% of the DCI-P3 color range. With exceptional HDR reproduction, the PD49 becomes a window to magnificent game worlds in story-driven, single-player games. With an esports-ready refresh rate of 240 Hz and a performant response time of 0.03 ms Gray-to-Gray (GtG), ghosting becomes a relic of the past. Thanks to the inclusion of Adaptive-Sync for variable refresh rate support, every game sequence flows with tear-free, immersive continuity.

Beyond its visual prowess, the PD49 boasts a suite of connectivity options. HDMI 2.1 and DP 1.4 support ensure that the latest devices

feel right at home. The included USB hub, complemented by four USB 3.2 ports and an RJ-45 input, ensures seamless connectivity. A standout feature is the USB-C port with generous 90 W Power Delivery, allowing devices to stay charged while immersing in the gaming world.

The built-in KVM switch allows users to connect two computers simultaneously, partitioning the Double QHD screen for multitasking aficionados.

Features including a Frame Counter, a customizable crosshair overlay (Dial Point), and optimized low-input lag give users an edge over their competitors and altogether elevate the gaming experience. Integrated stereo speakers, delivering 2×8 W, ensure that the audio experience is as immersive as the visuals.

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TIMEFRAME

One of our stops during the Ferrari, New Zealand grand tour with the Purosangue was a visit to apparently the most visited tourist spot in New Zealand. In Taupo people flock to these waterfalls and the surrounding trails Photo by

Carl S. Cunanan

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Every wrist finds its perfect watch.