“Quiet Side” of the Smoky Mountains

“When you're traveling, you are what you are, right there and then….William Least Heat-Moon, Blue Highways a Journey into America

Fancy a fabulous road trip over less traveled byways, exploring bespoke riverside campgrounds, sipping America’s finest Bourbon in the shadow of mountain grandeurs? Read on…

Townsend, named Best Small Town in Tennessee, gateway to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, lies on the eastern Knoxville side of the state.

An oft-forgotten hamlet, Townsend manages to remain refreshingly remote with considerably less

traffic than Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg (25 minutes away).

Indeed, this scenic region proved more relaxing, almost prefect for small-town aficionados and outdoorsy types seeking rural bicycle trails, a myriad of enchanting hiking trails, horseback riding, trout fishing – or relaxing to the song of burbling streams. Here Little River, born in the Smoky Mountains, waters leap and gurgle through sun-splashed woodlands, rocky canyons and pastoral meadows locals are happy to share.

A two-lane bridge off Highway 321 leads into Little River Campground, a surprisingly peaceful resort where we’d booked a “Tiny Home” nicely furnished, fully equipped, centrally located kitchen and twin queen size bedrooms, with own showers at opposite ends.

We enjoyed our spacious hillside verandah, fire pit included, overlooking pleasant landscapes rich in mature trees, and invitingly well laid out.

A sizable pavilion available for entertaining or events, attractive waterfall fed swimming pool, small convenience shop for essentials and locally flavored souvenirs, it’s all here.

After a day behind the wheel, a leisurely walk along shaded trails refreshes the spirits watching fishermen casting, a family tube drifting, carefree on the lazy current. A small spattering of rustic cabins and small homesteads line the opposite bank.

A tree affixed sign read: Watch Out For Bears.

Speaking of bears, do visit nearby Appalachian Bear Rescue, 121 Painted Trillium Way, Townsend.

Last year ABR successfully fostered seven cubs. Three were returned to their own mothers, two were rescued from South Carolina and two from Alabama.

ABR is a storefront Bear Rescue and education center. Bears are not housed here so they won’t grow accustomed to people. However, this rescue association provides education on how to keep bears safer, rehabilitate orphaned cubs and yearlings while raising money to care for orphaned bears.

“Black bears are naturally talented swimmers and our current three male residents are no exception. Hops, Barley, and Bourbon bears have been spending many afternoons poolside. While they don't have their mothers here to teach them, their instincts are proving to be very valuable in swimming lessons.”

“Know what to do when you see a bear. Never run from a bear. Don’t approach a bear – just quietly move away and leave the area.”

“There are a countless number of hikes one can take, but many are crowded,” host Travis Kirkland explains. “One, a little less crowded where you get to see some history is ‘Little Briar Gap Trail’. It is in the Little Greenbriar community, home of the famous (or infamous) Walker sisters.

They refused to sell their 123-acre family farm to the National Park and lived there until the 1960s. The trail contains the Little Greenbriar School, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, then there’s the Walker home, also with an interesting history.”

As to noteworthy dining, Kirkland continues. “A great spot for a nice romantic dinner or celebrate a special occasion is the Dancing Bear Lodge. It isn’t a secret by any stretch, but my goodness, it is a wonderful dining experience, and you can rent a cabin there as well. Great cuisine that can’t be found anywhere in the area, with their award-winning Appalachian Bistro that is farm to table, along with some very nice cocktails.” William Least Heat Moon, Blue Highways: A Journey into America

Don’t miss Tuckaleechee Caverns, largest and highest rated caverns east of the Mississippi River. Tuckaleechee runs under the Smoky Mountains National Park to Townsend.

The caverns are known for the Big Room which could almost fit a football stadium, with stalagmites 24 feet tall and flow-stone formations hundreds of feet long. A spectacular 200 plus-foot tall two-tier

“A rule of the blue road: Be careful going in search of adventure –it’s ridiculously easy to find.”

waterfall, named Silver Falls careens over fantastical vertical flow-stones, as if from some primeval dragon’s lair.

Additional comments from other participants included, “Felt like Company!! Super visit!” “Awesome customer service. Great drinks. Felt like family. Love the atmosphere!! We will definitely be back!”

– sampled in good company!

“For years now, we’ve had this spirit in the back of our minds. Straight bourbon whiskey fully matured in oak barrels and finished with maple wood to produce a sip like no other – the whiskey we always wanted to make.” (CoMPANY statement) We found both Jeff and Heath busily engaged in restocking shelves, armfuls of bottles clinking neatly five shelves high.

Just a short way outside of The Great Smoky Mountains National Park, on the quiet side in Townsend, Tennessee, we meet legendary “Bourbon Baron” Jeff Arnett (formerly Jack Daniel Master Distiller) and Heath Clark, AKA “Gin Guru”at their recently opened CoMPANY Distillery to rave reviews.

“Grand Opening Was Grand Experience,” notes one participant. “A quality product enriched by great service, a strong partnership with a local restaurant, a wonderful ambience, and a backdrop of the Smoky Mountains. What’s missing?” “I designed the maple wood finish process to mimic benefits of re-barreling,” Jeff explains. “Aging in a toasted maple barrel, an intriguing ideology I had experience with at Jack Daniels on their ‘27 Gold project’, which we modified to avoid the 20-25% additional ‘angel’s share” (evaporation loss).

Mind you, CoMPANY is more than great whiskey. They also provide GHoST RAIL Tennessee Dry Gin, an elixir earning top marks from the experts at the Ascot Awards.

road trip. Conjuring days past of “abandoned train tracks, disappearing into our valleys, mountains and forests. They mark where we’ve been, leave where we’re going up to each of us…” Gin, like the world, has become over complicated in recent years. “We distill our award-winning gin on a small, open-fired, Alembic still. All flavors and aromas are in perfect balance. Ghost Rail transports you on a journey all your own. It’s our attempt to slow down, extract some deeper meaning out of life, and make real connections with the people and places around us.”

Traveling these storied byways, sometimes under rainy skies, did nothing to dampen the joys of an east Tennessee

About the Author: Photojournalist Jim Leggett, a native of Scotland, is based in North Carolina, and Nassau, Bahamas. His passions include steamships, motorcycles, open cockpit flying, and whiskey, in moderation. He is also a veteran pipe band drummer.