Ocean Views 2020

Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations

Ocean Views 2020 California Firsts, Monterey at 250 Years Oregon’s Coast — Free & Open Charleston, SC — 300 Years of History Coastal Maine

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Byways Magazine ŠCopyright 2020 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.

For more than 37 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and byways of North America. Some of the most well-known, and least known, destinations to discover in the United States and Canada.

Byways is published in three versions. The is the Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers, Android, iOS (iPhone and iPad). There is an Apple App Store edition. There is also a Byways Magazine Channel in Apple News. A Byways Podcast is available on major podcast apps, including the Apple Podcast app.

For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine 502-785-4875 or Email http://bywaysmagazine.com Byways • 3

PREVIEW

By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

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elcome to the annual Ocean camp sites in the country at Gulf State Park.

Bill travels to the Gulf Intercoastal Waterway, where Views issue of Byways, featuring destinations along the he watched a dolphin splashing around in shallow water catching fish, and looked on as his boat captan pulled up North American coastline.

As the country slowly reopens, travel a crab pot, marked with a float, to show how crabs are will once again become part of every- caught. Fresh crab is found in restaurants here year day lives. It won’t happen overnight, around. Then he took a long, two handled claw and but for the first time in months travelers will begin to grabbed some oysters off the bottom.

Now, travel to Coastal Maine. Along the famous rockthink about and plan their next excursions. And the travbound coast of Maine are lighthouses, beaches, fishing el industry is preparing to welcome them back as customers. As they say, there is light at the end of the tunnel. villages, and 2000 offshore islands. There are jagged The first stop here is Monterey, California. Many rocks and cliffs and many bays and inlets along the 230California firsts occurred here, which is perhaps not sur- mile coastline.

More than 60 lighthouses dot the scenic coast of prising since the city is celebrating its 250th anniversary.

Maine.

By taking a trip along Maine’s coastal Route 1 Located on Monterey Bay, it was the capital of Alta and exploring the rocky shores and peninsulas along the California under both Spain and Mexico. And it was the way, visitors can experience a true sense of Maine’s marsite of California’s first theater, public building, public itime heritage. library, public school, printing press Already famous for and newspaper. its lobster, Maine has Today, tourism is the largest indusearned a welltry in the region. Highlights include deserved reputation as the 17-Mile Drive tour of Pebble a destination for fine Beach, Big Sur, Cannery Row, dining using locally Carmel-by-the-Sea, Fisherman’s sourced foods.

Wharf, the Monterey Bay Aquarium, The final stop is Monterey Wine Country, National Charleston, South Steinbeck Center, and Pinnacles Carolina.

With its National Park. vibrant culture, rich Next, travel north to the Oregon history, exquisitelyCoast. It is unique in that all 363 Maine’s West Quoddy Head Lighthouse. preserved architecmiles of the state’s coastline remain ture, idyllic coastal free and open to the public. location, celebrated dining scene, and friendly locals, Today, the coast is Oregon’s top tourist destination. In Charleston is one of America’s best loved travel destinathe mid-1980s, the coast’s economy was dependent on natural resources. Limits placed on logging and fishing tions.

Charleston is the largest city in South Carolina. It is caused significant decline. Today tourism and retirement located on Charleston Harbor, an inlet of the Atlantic provide the region’s economic growth.

Ocean.

Another popular destination for visitors is Oregon’s Charleston played a major part in the Civil War. Not historic lighthouses, which date to before 1900. Because only did the war begin here, it ended shortly after the city the Oregon and Washington coasts have been traditionwas captured

by Union forces. ally thought of as some of the most dangerous seas in the In What’s Happening, visit Indiana’s new Dunes world, lighthouses and a lightship were commissioned to aid sailors in navigating. Of the original 12 lights, nine National Park, Indiana’s first and only national park. It offers 15 miles of sandy shoreline along the southern tip are still in use.

In his Highways & Byways column, Bill Graves takes of Lake Michigan. It is the most popular tourist destinaus to the Gulf Shores of Alabama. Here you will find tion in the State of Indiana.

We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways. spectacular miles of wide, sugar sand beaches, warm breezes off the Gulf of Mexico and the biggest campground in the state and probably the longest stretch of Byways • 4

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Volume 37, Issue No. 3 2020 On the cover. View of the Pacific Ocean from the rocky Oregon coast. For more on Byways Ocean Views, turn to page 8. For more on the Oregon coast, turn to page 18. Photo courtesy Eric Muhr on Unsplash.

Features Ocean Views 2020 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 California Firsts, Monterey at 250 Years . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Oregon’s Coast, Free & Open. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Coastal Maine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Gulf Shores, Alabama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Charleston, South Carolina — 300 Years of History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Departments Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

What’s Happening Indiana Dunes, Indiana’s First National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Coming in future issues of Byways ...Rivers & Lakes, Great American Roads, Dams & Bridges, Great American Railroads and more!

Next Up: Rivers & Lakes 2020. The St. Lawrence River at Montreal. Photo courtesy André Chivinski &

Wikimedia Commons.

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Big Sur on California’s Central Coast near Monterey.

Photo courtesy SeeMonterey.com.

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California Firsts, Monterey at 250 Years

The Monterey Wharf. Photo courtesy seeMonterey.com.

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onterey is a scenic and historic California coastal destination. It is situated on California’s stunning Central Coast with its northern border approximately 100 miles south of San Francisco and about 50 miles from San Jose. Its southern border is approximately 240 miles north of Los Angeles. It is easily accessed by scenic Highway 1 or Highway 101.

Monterey is located in Monterey County on the southern edge of Monterey Bay. Founded on June 3, 1770, it is celebrating its 250th birthday this year. It was the capital of Alta California under both Spain and Mexico.

During this period, Monterey hosted California’s first theater, public building, public library, publicly funded school, printing press, and newspaper.

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It was originally the only port of entry for all taxable goods in California. In 1846 during the Mexican– American War, the United States flag was raised over the Custom House. After California was ceded to the U.S. after the war, Monterey hosted California’s first constitutional convention in 1849.

The Monterey Peninsula comprises the cities of Monterey, Carmel, and Pacific Grove, and unincorporated areas of Monterey County including the resort and community of Pebble Beach.

Spanish Period In 1602, Spanish maritime explorer Sebastián Vizcaíno recorded the name “Bahía de Monterrey”,

all. The land party was met at Monterey by Junípero Serra who traveled by sea. Portolá erected the Presidio of Monterey to defend the port and, on June 3, 1770, Serra founded the Cathedral of San Carlos Borromeo inside the presidio enclosure.

Monterey became the capital of the “Province of Both Californias” in 1777, and the chapel was renamed the Royal Presidio Chapel. The original church was destroyed by fire in 1789 and replaced by the present sandstone structure. It was completed in 1794 by Indian labor. In 1840, the chapel was rededicated to the patronage of Saint Charles Borromeo. The cathedral is the oldest continuously operating parish and the oldest stone building in California. It is also the oldest (and smallest) serving cathedral along with St. Louis Cathedral in New Orleans, Louisiana. It is the only existing presidio chapel in California and the only surviving building from the original Monterey Presidio.

Mexican Period Mexico gained independence from Spain in 1821, but the civil and religious institutions of Alta California remained much the same until the 1830s, when the secularization of the missions converted most of the mission pasture lands into private land grant ranchos.

Monterey was the site of the Battle of Monterey on July 7, 1846, during the Mexican–American War. It was on this date that John D. Sloat, Commodore in the United States Navy, raised the U.S. flag over the Monterey Custom House and claimed California for the United States.

State of California Monterey hosted California’s first constitutional convention in 1849, which composed the documents necessary to apply to the United States for statehood. Today it houses a small museum, while adjacent buildings serve as the seat of local government, and the Monterey post office (opened in 1849). which has evolved into Monterey Bay. In 1769, the first European land exploration of Alta California, the Spanish Portolá expedition, traveled north from San Diego, seeking Vizcaino’s “Port of Monterey” from 167 years earlier. However, he was unable to locate the area described by Vizcaino.

Portolá returned by land to Monterey the next year, having concluded that he must have been at Vizcaino’s Port of Monterey after California’s first theater

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Cannery Row. Photo courtesy SeeMonterey.com.

Today, tourism has become the largest industry in the region, easily explained by its location on California’s Central Coast. Major attractions include: •17-Mile Drive: Scenic coastal driving tour of Pebble Beach with lookouts and famous golf courses. There is an entrance fee.

•Big Sur: Iconic area in Monterey County encompassing a 90-mile stretch of breathtaking, dramatic Pacific coastline. Inns, restaurants, camping spots, beaches and hiking trails can be found along Highway1.

•Cannery Row: One of the most popular destinations in the Central Coast and named for John Steinbeck’s novel, Cannery Row offers waterfront luxury hotels, boutiques, restaurants and the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

•Carmel-by-the-Sea: Charming fairytale-like village with boutique shops and 110 art galleries. Unique laws prohibiting street addresses, live music, neon lights and high heels without a permit still exist.

•Fisherman’s Wharf: Popular attraction with seafood and chowder vendors, unique shops, restaurants, whale watching tours, sailing and fishing charters.

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Carmel Beach. Photo courtesy SeeMonterey.com.

•Golf: Monterey County is a world-class golf destina- daily shows, feedings, tours and a dozen exhibits includtion with more than 20 public and private golf courses ing Monterey Bay habitats. The Monterey Bay playable year-round and in a variety of scenic settings.

Aquarium attracts nearly 2 million visitors each year to view the 300,000 marine plants and animals that live in •Monterey Bay Aquarium: Featuring more than this world-class aquarium. The Outer Bay Wing has a 35,000 animals representing more than 550 species with million-gallon tank that depicts the open ocean, and a Monterey Bay Aquarium: Featuring more than 35,000 animals representing some 550 species.

Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons.

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The Monterey harbor and downtown.

Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons.

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The Cathedral of San Carlos Borromeo. Photo courtesy Rubina Shrestha, CC BY-SA 4.0 & Wikimedia Commons. three-story kelp forest and Deep Seas display show creatures never before brought to the surface.

•National Steinbeck Center: Museum devoted to the life and work of Nobel prize-winning author, John Steinbeck.

•Monterey Wine Country: Monterey County is home to 349 vineyards, 82 wineries, 65 tasting Herrmann Hall, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey. rooms and more than Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons..

30 varietals. The two most renowned varietals include Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The region is the largest grower of Chardonnay in the United States and produces the highest rated and largest amount of Pinot Noir in California. There are wine tasting opportunities throughout the county, including in Salinas Valley, Carmel Valley, Carmel-by-theSea and Monterey.

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•Pinnacles National Park: The newest national park in California is a popular spot for outdoor activities ranging from hiking to birdwatching to stargazing to rock climbing. It is also a perfect outdoor classroom for lessons in geology, botany and biology.

Pinnacles Campground offers tent, group and RV sites •Whale Watching: Many charted whale watching tours are available from Fisherman’s Wharf and Moss Landing year-round.

Sightings include gray whales, humpbacks, blue whales, minke whales, fin whales, orcas, dolphins and more

Cottage_of_Sweets,_Carmel. Photo courtesy SeeMonterey.com.

•The city was also the center for California In addition to painters, many noted authors have also painters in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Such lived in and around the Monterey area, including Robert painters as Arthur Frank Mathews, Armin Hansen, Louis Stevenson, John Steinbeck, Ed Ricketts, Robinson Xavier Martinez, Rowena Meeks Abdy and Percy Gray Jeffers, Robert A. Heinlein, and Henry Miller. lived or visited to pursue painting in the style of either En For more on visiting Monterrey, visit: plein air or Tonalism. https://www.seemonterey.com/resources/visitors-

Point Piños Light near Pacific Grove, California. Point Piños Lighthouse in Pacific Grove is the oldest continually operating lighthouse on the West Coast.

Photo courtesy Ed Bierman CC BY 2.0 and Wikimedia Commons.

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Cannon Beach, Oregon, is famous for Haystack Rock, a 235-ft sea stack that juts out into the Pacific Ocean. National Geographic has called Cannon Beach “one of the world’s 100 most beautiful places.” Photo courtesy Caleb Jones on Unsplash.

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Oregon’s Coast, Free & Open

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Thor’s Well at C power of the oce

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he Oregon Coast is unique in that all 363 miles of the state’s coastline remain free and open to the public.

The Oregon Coast is bordered by the Pacific Ocean to its west and the Oregon Coast Range to the east, and stretches some 362 miles from the California border in the south to the Columbia River in the north.

The coast is Oregon’s top tourist destination. In the mid-1980s, the coast’s economy was dependent on natural resources. Limits placed on logging and fishing caused significant decline. As of the late 2000s, tourism and retirement have provided the region’s economic growth.

The Oregon Beach Bill of 1967 allows free beach access to everyone. In return for a pedestrian easement and relief from construction, the bill eliminates property taxes on private beach land and allows its owners to retain certain beach land rights.

The largest city on the Oregon Coast is Coos Bay, population 16,700, on the South Coast. U.S. Route 101 is the primary highway from Brookings to Astoria and is 20 • Byways

known for its scenic overlooks of the Pacific Ocean.

Over 80 state parks and recreation areas dot the Oregon Coast.

However, only a few highways cross the Coast Range to the interior, and they are considered among the most dangerous roads in the state.

The North Coast The North Coast, which stretches from the Columbia River to Cascade Head, possesses longer stretches of unbroken beach, due to silt deposits washed southwards from the Columbia River. It also has a higher concentration of logging zones, and larger, but less frequent sandbar-enclosed bays. Astoria serves as a staging ground for ships entering and leaving the Columbia River, because of the dangerous Columbia Bar. Ships wishing to make the passage require the aid of specially trained bar pilots.

Along the coast are the cities of Seaside, Cannon Beach and Tillamook. Seaside and Cannon Beach lie directly on the Pacific Ocean, whereas Tillamook lies inland along Tillamook Bay.

Meriwether Lewis & William Clark Cape Blanco, which is approximately 6.4 miles north of Port Orford, is the westernmost point in Oregon. Cape Blanco extends further west than any point of land in the contiguous United States (lower 48 states) except Cape Alava, in Washington state.

Lewis and Clark Expedition

Cape Perpetua is a salt water fountain driven by the ean tide. Photo courtesy Devin Lyster on Unsplash.

In 1803, with the successful purchase of the Louisiana Territory from France, President Thomas Jefferson ordered an expedition to the west coast, which was led

by Captain Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. The Lewis and Clark Expedition reached the Oregon Coast in early winter of 1805, where they built Fort Clatsop near present-day Astoria. During their stay at Fort Clatsop, the Corps of Discovery made many observations about the landscape and local life, as well as establishing relations with the local Clatsop Indians.

The Lewis and Clark Expedition would have longlasting effects for the Pacific Northwest and began the

The Central Coast The Central Coast extends from Cascade Head to Reedsport. Similar to the North Coast, this region possesses fewer sandy beaches, more sea cliffs and terraces, and a greater number of bays. Several small urban areas exist here. Among these are the cities of Lincoln City, Depoe Bay, Newport, Waldport, and Yachats.

The South Coast The South Coast region extends from Reedsport to the California border. It is distinct from the North and Central Coast regions because of its mountainous nature. Much of the coastline in this region is made up of sea cliffs and miles of beaches. Among the landscape of the region exists the Oregon Dunes. There are seven incorporated cities on the south coast: Reedsport, North Bend, Coos Bay, Bandon, Port Orford, Gold Beach, and Brookings.

Seal on the dock in Newport.

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Heceta Head lighthouse, Florence, OR. Photo courtesy Ferdinand Feng on Unsplash. settlement of the U.S. west coast, even though heavy settlement of the Oregon Coast would not come until half a century later.

After Oregon attained statehood in 1859 and the completion of railroads throughout the Coast Range, development of land quickly began along many of the Coast’s bays and rivers. Logging and commercial fishing soon became the primary industries in the area, and several ports were built to facilitate both industries.

in Newport, and Mount Emily outside Brookings.

Oregon’s beaches are popular destinations for visitors.

Horse riding, clam digging, and surfing are popular activities. Certain beaches are host to events such as Seaside’s Beach Run and Prom Walk or Lincoln City’s glass float hunt. Because of many headlands along the Oregon Coast, beaches vary in length from dozens of miles to less than a quarter of a mile. Though less common, surf fishing also occurs along sections of the beach.

However, not all Oregon beaches are sand beaches.

Tourism Large surf-smoothed stones are common and several Due to its scenery, wildlife, and history, the Oregon stone beaches exist.

Coast is a popular travel destination. Hiking, sport fishing, cycling, kite flying, scuba diving, surfing, sand- Lighthouses Another popular destination for visitors is Oregon’s boarding, and boating are common activities for visitors to the region. Historic areas, such as Fort Clatsop, Battle historic lighthouses, most of which date to before 1900.

Rock, and Oregon's lighthouses are all popular sites for Because the Oregon and Washington coasts have been traditionally thought of as some of the most dangerous visitors.

The Oregon Coast is also known for its scenic areas, seas in the world, lighthouses and a lightship were comsuch as Cape Perpetua, Cape Blanco and Cape Arago. missioned to aid sailors in navigating. Of the original 12 Likewise, each region has its own distinct draws in addi- lights, nine are still in use. However, in recent years, two tion to those found throughout the state, such as the private lights, Pelican Bay Light and Cleft of the Rock Astoria Column in Astoria, the Oregon Coast Aquarium Light have been built, with permission from the Coast 22 • Byways

Rock formations along the coast at Bandon, Oregon. Photo courtesy Dave on Unsplash.

Pacific Ocean beaches and Tillamook Bay at Tillamook, Oregon. Photo courtesy Dan Meyers on Unsplash.

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Bikes on beach at Lincoln City on the Central Coast of Oregon. Photo courtesy traveloregon.com.

Guard. Both lights, along with Cape Arago Light, are private property.

Marine Life

Because of this, whale watching is a popular tourist attraction along the coast. Tour boats often take passengers on whale watching tours, though it is possible to observe whales from shore.

The marine ecology of the Oregon Coast is some of the most diverse in the world. More than 29 species of Historic sites Many historical sites dot the Oregon Coast. The most marine mammals make their home on the Oregon Coast, including several species of seal, including the Steller’s prominent is that of Fort Clatsop outside of Astoria, sea lion and harbor seal, as well as the less common northern elephant seal and California sea lion.

The Sea Lion Caves near Florence, and the bay front in Newport are the best places to see Steller’s sea lions and harbor seals, though they can be observed in many other places.

Seal pups can sometimes be seen on sandy beaches resting. Signs are often posted on beaches warning of this, as the law prohibits disturbing them.

Several species of whale can be observed in the waters near shore, especially during migration in late December and late March, Surfing at Lincoln City on the such as gray whale, orca, and humpback Central Coast of Oregon. whale. Harbor porpoises are also common.

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which was the site of the Lewis and Clark Hanger B, Tillamook Air Expeditions winter stay on Museum. Photo courtesy the Oregon Coast in 1805– Cranialsodomy CC BY-SA 1806, as well as the nearby 3.0 & Wikimedia Commons.

Peter Iredale which was grounded on the Clatsop Spit 100 years later in September 1906.

However, over one hundred and fifteen years of deterioration have destroyed much of the original ship. Now only a small portion remains above the sand. Both are part of the Lewis and Clark famous Battle Rock, which was the site of a major battle National and State Historical Parks along with Fort between local natives and members of an 1851 expediStevens. tion led by Captain William Tichenor in order to begin Further south outside Tillamook sits the Tillamook Air railroad construction.

Museum, which is housed in one of the two former milFinally, Oregon has the distinction of being the only itary blimp hangars of the former Naval Air Station U.S. state (Hawaii and Alaska did not attain statehood Tillamook. The structure was originally known as until 1959) to receive hostile action during World War II, “Hangar B” and was part of a pair of hangars built by the being both shelled and bombed along the Oregon Coast.

U.S. Navy in 1942. “Hangar A” was destroyed by a fire For additional information on visiting the Oregon in 1992. coast, visit: Located in Port Orford just south of Cape Blanco is the https://traveloregon.com/places-to-go/regions/oregon-coast The beauty of the Oregon Coast. Photo courtesy Vasiliki Volkova on Unsplash.

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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves labama isn't known Gulf Shores, Alabama for its beaches and oceanfront hangouts.

Florida, its neighbor next it was great, rolling along at 10 to 12 miles an hour. We door has a lock on that notori- stopped at a couple lakes and got pictures of an underway alligator. ety.

But what Alabama has at Gulf Shores and Orange Beach is spectacular miles of wide, sugar sand beaches, warm breezes off the Gulf of Mexico and the biggest campground in the state and probably the longest stretch of camp sites in the country at Gulf State Park.

Five hundred RV sites spread out for almost three miles on both sides of the Park’s main road. The Park has another eleven miles of paved trails that are popular with bikers. In just a couple hours, I was able to see the whole park, joining a group with a guide, riding the bike trails on a Segway.

The Segway is a two-wheeled, self-balancing, battery powered vehicle that you drive standing up. It was tricky Scott Beebee’s oysters. stepping on at first, as I was not sure who was in control, the Gyroscopic sensors or me. Once I got the hang of it,

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The white sandy beaches of Alabama’s Gulf Shores on the Gulf of Mexico. Byways photos.

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Taking a dip on Alabama’s beaches.

Byways photos.

The Park is centered in this long island that can be accessed via Pensacola, Florida, east of here and via Loxley, Alabama, off I-10, to the north. On the island’s western tip there is a ferry that makes a 30-minute run across the entrance to Mobile Bay. The island, which is about 42 miles long, is separated from the mainland by the Gulf Intercoastal Waterway that runs from Brownsville, Texas to Carrabelle, Florida, a distance of 1,050 miles. The sheltered waterway provides a channel with a depth of 12 feet, designed primary for barge traffic. It was completed in 1949.

With some friends, I spent an afternoon boating on the Waterway with Skip Beebee. He runs Sailaway Charters and knows these waters well. He could see that I was fascinated by the snub nosed push boats maneuvering a chain of barges up the narrow canal. He said that the boats usually push four barges, sometimes fewer.

On their trek east, they are loaded with coal, sometimes liquid fuel. Skip said that he had a push boat skipper on his boat one time. He told Skip that a few barge loads of gasoline takes hundreds of tanker trucks off the Interstate, apparently pleased that he was easing traffic for the rest of us as well as a potential hazmat problem.

Skip took the boat into Wolf Bay where we watched a dolphin splashing around in shallow water catching fish.

He would watch for a slight ripple on the water and would then tell us where the dolphin would come up next for air. He was always right.

He pulled up a crab pot of his, marked with a float, to show us some crabs. Fresh crab is found in restaurants here year around. Then he took a long, two handled claw and grabbed some oysters off the bottom.

Skip said that oysters are filter feeders, drawing in water from which they extract plankton and other stuff off the bottom. An oyster can filter over a gallon of water an hour.

“That's why I don't eat them raw,” he said.

“But my wife does.”

Most of the beaches here are public. During my stay, they were never crowded. Beach Author on the Segway umbrellas and portable beach chairs were lined up a few feet back from the water’s edge, but everybody had a front row seat. A sand castle here is at risk of a high tide, never a crowd.

About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns. of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com.

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Coastal Maine

A cruise ship passing the Portland Head Light Station, Cape Elizabeth, Maine at dusk. Photo courtesy Keith Luke on Unsplash .

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View of Camden Harbor from Mt. Battie.

Photo courtesy Visit Maine.

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long the famous rock-bound coast of Maine are lighthouses, beaches, fishing villages, and 2000 offshore islands. There are jagged rocks and cliffs and many bays and inlets along the 230-mile coastline.

Here you can enjoy the maritime side of Maine as the state celebrates its bicentennial marking 200 years of statehood.

More than 60 lighthouses dot the scenic coast of Maine. By taking a trip along Maine’s coastal Route 1 and exploring the rocky shores and peninsulas along the way, visitors can experience a true sense of Maine’s maritime heritage.

The Maine Beaches At Maine’s southern tip, The Maine Beaches region contains 30 miles of white sand beaches. An hour north of Boston and south of Portland, the region stretches from Kittery to Old Orchard Beach and features popular vacation destinations such as Kennebunk and Ogunquit.

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The Maine Windjammer Association is the largest fleet of working windjammers in America. Between its eight members there are centuries of maritime history. Photo courtesy Fred LeBlanc.

Maine is the easternmost state in the United States both in its extreme points and in its geographic center. The town is the easternmost organized settlement in the United States. Its Quoddy Head Lighthouse is also the closest place in the United States to Africa and Europe.

Coastal Excursions A perfect way to see and explore Maine’s beautiful coastline is doing so by water. All along Maine’s coast there are opportunities for tour boat excursions, sailing trips, and cruises lasting anywhere from one hour to one week. One of the most unique ways to cruise the coast is aboard Maine Lobster dinner. Photo courtesy Jim Dugan. one of Maine’s historic windjammers.

See humpback, finback and minke whales on whaleMaine is the only place in North America with such a watching tours departing from Kennebunkport, Portland, large, historic fleet of traditional sailing vessels.

Windjammer cruises offer an experience of a lifetime as Boothbay and Bar Harbor. Or, view the country’s largest you visit tiny fishing villages, explore islands and light- nesting population of Atlantic puffins or playful seals on houses, view whales, seals and puffins up close, or relax other tours.

Learn about the lives of lobsters and other underwater accompanied by dramatic scenery and salt air. You can sea creatures, and see how lobsters are trapped and even help the crew sail the ship if you choose. hauled from the ocean on a lobster boat cruise.

Take the boat to Burnt Island Lighthouse in Boothbay Harbor. Learn about lighthouse life from the keeper and his family, and explore the island trails.

There is no better way to view a lighthouse than from the water. The Maine Maritime Museum in Bath and the Penobscot Marine Museum in Searsport offer lighthouse cruises.

Sailing in Maine is in one word, “spectacular”. Day sailors or private charters can be found at most major harbors along the coast.

Take in views of the coastline, islands and marine life while someone else does the navigating.

Kayaking is the ideal way to explore Maine’s ocean bays, harbors and tidal rivers, including the Maine Island Trail, America’s oldest recreational water trail reaching from Kittery to Eastport and the Canadian Maritimes.

You may not immediately associate Maine with surfing, but the sandy beach communities along the southern Maine coast offer summer surf camps and individual equipment rentals and lesson options for all levels, and Yorkbased Grain Surfboards crafts locally grown wooden boards for devotees. In Camden, Byways • 31

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Sunset on Wells Beach, Wells, Maine. Photo courtesy Dominique Lellévre on Unsplash.

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Portland waterfront. Photo courtesy Visit Maine.

August’s Lobster Sup Cup is a three-day, open-ocean paddleboard racing event held in beautiful Penobscot Bay.

Dining Delight Already famous for its lobster, Maine has earned a well-deserved reputation as a destination for fine dining using locally sourced foods in creative settings. In addition to lobster and other fresh seafood, Maine is also a leading producer of blueberries, potatoes, apples and maple syrup – foods that are featured prominently in many traditional and modern Maine recipes.

There is no shortage of opportunities to sample and enjoy the harvest of land and sea throughout the state.

From visits to local farms, to lobster boat tours, agricultural fairs and award-winning fine dining, Maine’s food

Fish Market, Portland, Maine. Photo courtesy Thomas Jarrand on Unsplash.

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industry offers culinary discoveries year round.

Rockland hosts the Maine Lobster Festival each year and it is one of the summer’s most popular events, with five days dedicated to celebrating the clawed marine crustacean. Amateur and professional cooking competitions, more than 20,000 lbs. of lobster and other foods, a lobster crate race, craft show, historical tours and more bring visitors from to this coastal town in early August.

Maine Salmon & Seafood Festival – a seaside festival

Nubble Lighthouse, York Maine. Photo courtesy Stephen Walker on Unsplash.

Arcadia National Park. Photo courtesy Miro Vrlik on Unsplash. in Eastport each September, celebrates the Atlantic salmon industry on the Maine coast. Music, two-day arts and craft show, and salmon dinners.

Main Coastal Attractions •Acadia National Park – Acadia National Park abounds with an endless variety of sights, attractions and activities. Outdoor enthusiasts can try biking, hiking, rock climbing, kayaking and sailing. Within the park is

the third-largest island on the east coast, Mt. Desert. home to Cadillac Mountain. It is the highest mountain within 25 miles of the shoreline north of Rio de Janeiro.

From atop Cadillac Mountain’s 1,532-foot summit, visitors are the first to watch the sun rise each day in the United States.

•Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens – New England’s largest botanical garden, located in Boothbay, Maine, features 270 acres of spectacular ornamental gardens and stonework, waterfront and woodland trails, a children’s garden, and a beautiful visitor center with café and gift shop.

•Old Sow Whirlpool – This tidal whirlpool, which can be seen from ferries near the harbor of Eastport, is the largest of its kind in the western hemisphere.

•Penobscot Narrows Bridge Observatory – The span carrying Route 1 over the Penobscot River near Bucksport is North America’s only public bridge with an observatory. See mountains, lakes and Penobscot Bay from 437 feet above the river.

•Portland Observatory – America’s last standing 19th century maritime signal station. The 86-foot tall observatory was built in 1807 overlooking Portland Harbor and Casco Bay. •Seashore Trolley Museum – This Kennebunkport museum contains the world’s largest collection of trolleys and electric streetcars. Tours, trolley rides, and special events throughout the summer.

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Charleston, South Carolina — 300 Years of History

Sunset over Charleston viewed from the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge. Photo courtesy David Martin on Unplash.

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Dock Street Theatre. Photo courtesy Explore Charleston, ExploreCharleston.com.

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ith its vibrant culture, rich history, exquisitelypreserved architecture, idyllic coastal location, celebrated dining scene, and friendly locals, Charleston, South Carolina, is one of America’s best loved travel destinations.

The Charleston Area is a veritable living museum populated with expertly preserved antebellum mansions. It’s also a bustling epicenter of culture, invigorating outdoor activity and sumptuous dining that welcomes close to four million visitors annually.

Charleston is the largest city in South Carolina. It is located on Charleston Harbor, an inlet of the Atlantic Ocean formed by the confluence of the Ashley, Cooper, and Wando rivers. The estimated population of the Charleston metropolitan area, comprising Berkeley, Charleston, and Dorchester counties, was 802,122 residents last year.

Early History Charleston was founded in 1670 as Charles Town, honoring King Charles II of England. Its initial location at Albemarle Point on the west bank of the Ashley River, now Charles Towne Landing, was abandoned in 1680 for 38 • Byways

its present site, which became the fifth-largest city in North America within ten years. It was one of the key cities in the British colonization of the Americas.

Charles Town played a major role in the slave trade, which laid the foundation for the city’s size and wealth, and was dominated by a slavocracy of plantation owners and slave traders. Charleston was the only major American city with a majority-slave population.

Although Columbia replaced it as the state capital in 1788, Charleston became even more prosperous as Eli Whitney’s 1793 invention of the cotton gin sped the processing of the crop over 50 times. The development made short-staple cotton profitable and opened the upland Piedmont region to slave-based cotton plantations, previously restricted to the Sea Islands and Low country. Britain’s Industrial Revolution—initially built upon its textile industry—took up the extra production ravenously and cotton became Charleston’s major export commodity in the 19th century.

On 27 April 1838, a massive fire broke out in the evening. It raged until noon the next day, damaging over 1,000 buildings. When the many homes and businesses were rebuilt or repaired, a great cultural awakening

occurred. In many ways, the fire helped put Charleston on the map as a great cultural and architectural center. Previous to the fire, only a few homes were styled as Greek Revival; many residents decided to construct new buildings in that style after the conflagration. This tradition continued and made Charleston one of the foremost places to view Greek Revival architecture.

The Gothic Revival also made a significant appearance in the construction of many churches after the fire that exhibited picturesque forms and reminders of devout European religion.

Former German Fire Co. Engine House and Old Slave Mart Museum built 1859. Photo courtesy Brian Stansberry, CC BY 3.0 & Wikimedia Commons.

Civil War Charleston played a major part in the Civil War. As a pivotal city, both the Union and Confederate Armies vied for power over the Holy City. It is no surprise that the war ended only mere months after the Union forces took control of Charleston. Not only did the Civil War end not long after Charleston’s surrender, but the Civil War began here as well.

Following the election of Abraham Lincoln, the South Carolina General Assembly voted on December 20, 1860, to secede from the Union. South Carolina was the first state to secede. On December 27, Castle Pinckney, a small island fortification in Charleston harbor, was surrendered by its garrison to the state militia and, on January 9, 1861, Citadel cadets opened fire on the

USS Star of the West as it entered Charleston Harbor.

The first full battle of the American Civil War occurred on April 12, 1861, when shore batteries under the command of General Beauregard opened fire on the U.S. Army-held Fort Sumter in Charleston harbor. After a 34hour bombardment, Major Robert Anderson surrendered the fort.

Union control of the sea permitted the repeated bombardment of the city, causing vast damage. Although

Folly Pier. Photo courtesy Explore Charleston, ExploreCharleston.com.

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Fort Sumter. Photo courtesy Explore Charleston, ExploreCharleston.com.

Admiral Du Pont’s naval assault on the town’s forts in April 1863 failed, the Union navy’s blockade shut down most commercial traffic. Over the course of the war, some blockade runners got through, but not a single one made it into or out of the Charleston Harbor between August 1863 and March 1864.

Then, in 1886 a major earthquake rocked Charleston damaging more than 2,000 buildings. Within a year of the 1886 earthquake, proud Charlestonians boasted that strangers who visit the city have to hunt up traces of the earthquake, very few of which remain.

As a result of the earthquake, iron rods were run through the interiors of buildings and fastened to the Post Civil War exterior walls to protect them from future quakes. Today, Following the Civil War, Charlestonians were too poor these round and star-shaped bolts remain visible on to remodel so the city simply adapted her old buildings. many homes and commercial buildings.

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The downtown Charleston waterfront on The Battery. Photo courtesy Billy Hathorn, CC BY 3.0 & Wikimedia Commons.

On the evening of September 21, 1989, Hurricane Hugo with its 135-mph winds headed directly for Charleston. Near midnight, a 12-to-17 foot wall of water swept over Fort Sumter in the harbor and the storm surge came ashore.

A week after the storm, preservationists surveyed the city and found that only 25 of the 3,500 historically important buildings had been severely damaged.

Charleston would again rise from the ashes.

Charleston Today Charleston is a popular tourist destination, with a considerable Charleston City Hall is open to visitors for free historical number of hotels, inns, and bed tours. Shown during Spoleto Festival USA. CC BY 3.0 & and breakfasts, numerous restauWikimedia Commons. rants featuring Low Country cuisine and shops. Charleston is also hospitality, history, culture and creativity. In 2019, for the a notable art destination. seventh consecutive year, the readers of Travel + Leisure Commercial shipping is also important to the econo- ranked Charleston the No. 1 City in the United States. my. The city has two shipping terminals, owned and With a rich 300-year history, Charleston today is operated by the South Carolina Ports Authority, which America’s most beautifully preserved architectural and are part of the fourth-largest container seaport on the historical treasure. The city’s past is a testament to the East Coast and the thirteenth-largest container seaport in spirit and tenacity of its citizens. Its appeal has been North America. described as a “living museum”.

The port is also used to transfer cars and car parts for For more information, visit South Carolina’s auto manufacturing business, including https://www.charlestoncvb.com Mercedes, Volvo and BMW. Charleston continues to shine with its unique blend of Rainbow Row’s 13 houses along East Bay Street formed the commercial center of the town in the colonial period.

Photo courtesy Katie Armstrong, National Scenic Byways.

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Indiana Dunes, Indiana’s First National Park

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ndiana Dunes National Park is Indiana’s first national park and the 61st in the nation. The Indiana Dunes is 15 miles of sandy shoreline along the southern tip of Lake Michigan.

It’s the most popular tourist destination in the State of Indiana. Indiana Dunes attracts almost four million visitors each year. While best known for its world-class

beaches, Indiana Dunes also offers prairies, rivers, wetlands and forests to explore.

Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore is the name by which it was known until it was designated the nation’s 61st national park on February 15, 2019. The park runs for nearly 25 miles along the southern shore of Lake Michigan. The park encompasses approximately 15,000 acres.

Lake Michigan and sand dunes. Photo courtesy Jeff DeWitt on Unplash.

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g n i n e p p a H s ’ t a h W

Lake Michigan as seen from Indiana Dunes National Park. Photo courtesy Witoki CC BY-SA 3.0 and Wikimedia Commons.

Located in the park are sand dune, wetland, prairie, river, and forest ecosystems.

West Beach, located adjacent to U.S. Route 12 and County Line Road, lies on the border of Gary and Portage, Indiana. It is a geographically separated section of the park that is preserved as a piece of public beach access.

Recreation In addition to its 15 miles of sandy beaches, it is known for its sand dunes, bogs, marshes, swamps, fens, prairies, rivers, oak savannas, and woodland forests.

The park provides opportunities for bird watching, camping, 45 miles of hiking, fishing, swimming, horseback riding, and cross-country skiing.

Pavilion at Portage Lakefront and Riverwalk.

Photo courtesy National Park Service.

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West Beach, Indiana Dunes with Chicago skyline in background.

Photo courtesy J. Crocker and Wikimedia Commons.

More than 350 species of birds have been observed in Whether you enjoy scouting for rare species of birds or the park. It also has one of the most diverse plant com- flying kites on the sandy beach, the national par’'s munities of any unit in the U.S. National Park System 15,000 acres will continually enchant you. with 1418 vascular plant species including 90 threatened For additional information, visit: https://www.nps.gov/indu/index.htm or endangered ones.

First-time visitors to the park often go to the Dorothy Buell Memorial Visitor Center at U.S. Route 20 and Indiana Route 49, near Porter, Indiana. The center offers standard visitorcenter amenities, including a video, brochures, hands-on exhibits, and a gift shop. It is free to the general public.

Hikers will enjoy 50 miles of trails over rugged dunes, mysterious wetlands, sunny prairies, meandering rivers and peaceful View of Lake Michigan from the shore of Indiana Dunes National Park. forests.

Photo courtesy Steevven1 CC BY-SA 3.0 and Wikimedia Commons.

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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America.

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Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, meeting planners and the travel trade. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2020 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.

Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner

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