Byways Rivers & Lakes 2020

Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations

Byways 2

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Byways 3

Preview

By Stephen Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

T

his issue of Byways features Rivers and Lakes throughout North America.

The journey begins on the U.S. and Canada border as we visit the St. Lawrence River which flows 700 miles to the Atlantic Ocean. With an average width of two miles and a maximum depth of over 200 feet, this sole natural outlet for the Great Lakes System is the largest eastwest river in North America.

The St. Lawrence River connects the Great Lakes with the Atlantic Ocean and is the primary drainage outflow of the Great Lakes Basin.

It traverses the Canadian provinces of Quebec and Ontario, and is part of the international boundary between Ontario, Canada, and the state of New York. It also provides the basis for the commercial St. Lawrence Seaway.

The Ohio River is a 981-mile long river formed by the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers in Pittsburg, Pennsylvania. The Ohio forms the northern borders of West Virginia and Kentucky, and the southern borders of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois.

The Ohio River contributes more water to the Mississippi River than does any other tributary. At its confluence in Cairo, Illinois, the Ohio is considerably bigger than the Mississippi River.

Cities along the Ohio are also among the oldest cities in their respective states and among the oldest cities in the United States west of the Appalachian Mountains.

They include Pittsburgh, PA, Wheeling, WV, Cincinnati, OH, Louisville, KY and Evanston, IN. Lake Martin is a 44,000-acre reservoir with over 750 miles of wooded shoreline located in Alabama. Lake Martin was formed by the construction of Martin Dam on the Tallapoosa River. At the time of the dam’s completion in 1926, Lake Martin was the largest manmade body of water in the world.

Byways 4

Today it remains one of the largest lakes in the United States. Lake Martin hosts many events throughout the year, including fishing tournaments, sailing regattas, and a giant fireworks show on the Fourth of July to celebrate Independence Day. Jackson Lake is the largest and most popular of the many lakes in Grand Teton National Park, not only because of the spectacular scenery and amenities, but also for fishing, boating, and even sailing.

Few landscapes in the world are as striking and memorable as that of Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming. Grand Teton National Park includes the major peaks of the 40-milelong Teton Range as well as most of the northern sections of the valley known as Jackson Hole, which is only 10 miles south of Yellowstone National Park.

In his Highways & Byways column, Bill Graves takes us to Bridgeport, California. At an elevation of 6,465 feet in the Sierra Nevadas, it is set in a spacious alpine meadow with snow-capped peaks surrounding it.

Restful and idyllic, it’s among the prettiest spots in California.

For many tourists, their first view of Seattle’s Lake Union is from the Space Needle. Come along as Dr. John Kirchner takes us downtown, a modest walking distance to the lake. Enjoy parks, museums, pubs, restaurants, craft shops, bike rental shops, and docks for everything from fishing boats to aircraft.

In What’s Happening, AREA 15 is located just off the Las Vegas Strip. It offers live events, immersive activations, monumental art installations, extraordinary design elements, unique retail, and ground-breaking technology.

We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.

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Byways 5

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Byways 6

Volume 37, Issue No. 4 2020 On the Cover. Yellow Sea Kayak on Jackson Lake in Grand Tetons National Park in Wyoming.

For more on Rivers & Lakes, turn to page 8. Cover Photo courtesy U.S. National Park Service.

Features St. Lawrence River ................................................................................................................................ 8 The Ohio River .................................................................................................................................... 14 Lake Martin, Alabama ......................................................................................................................... 20 Jackson Lake & The Grand Tetons ..................................................................................................... 25 Lake Union, Seattle, Washington ........................................................................................................ 32

Departments Byways Instant Connect ........................................................................................................................ 2 Byways Preview .................................................................................................................................... 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves............................................................................. 30 Advertiser/Sponsored Content Index .................................................................................................. 41

What’s Happening Las Vegas AREA 15 ............................................................................................................................ 38 Coming in future issues of Byways . . . Great American Roads, Dams & Bridges, Great American Railroads and more . . .

Next Up: Great American Roads. The Great River Road in Arkansas. Right. The Welcome Center in Lake Village, off Lake Chicot along the Great River Road. Photo courtesy Casey Crocker and Travel South USA.

Byways 7

Byways 8

St. Lawrence River

Byways 9

O

Cornwall, Montreal, Trois-Rivières, and Quebec City before draining into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the largest estuary in the world.

With an average width of two miles and a maximum depth of over 200 feet, this sole natural outlet for the Great Lakes System is the largest east-west river in North America.

The estuary begins at the eastern tip of Île d'Orléans, just downstream from Quebec City. The St. Lawrence River includes Lake St.-Louis south of Montreal, Lake Saint Francis at Salaberry-de-Valleyfield and Lac Saint-Pierre east of Montreal.

The St. Lawrence River flows in a roughly northeasterly direction, connecting the Great Lakes with the Atlantic Ocean and forming the primary drainage outflow of the Great Lakes Basin. It traverses the Canadian provinces of Quebec and Ontario, and is part of the international boundary between Ontario, Canada, and the U.S. state of New York.

The St. Lawrence River runs 1,900 miles from the farthest headwater to the mouth and 743.8 miles from the outflow of Lake Ontario. These numbers include the estuary. Lake Champlain and the Ottawa, Richelieu, Saint-Maurice, Saint-François, Chaudière and Saguenay rivers drain into the St. Lawrence.

riginating at the northeastern end of Lake Ontario, the St. Lawrence River flows 700 miles to the Atlantic Ocean -- draining well over 30,000 square miles of the Great Lakes Basin.

The river provides a power source, an ocean-inland shipping channel, and a variety of tourist attractions as well-including as a vast recreational fishery.

Today, the St. Lawrence River begins at the outflow of Lake Ontario and flows adjacent to Gananoque, Brockville, Morristown, Ogdensburg, Massena, Byways 10

In 1809, the first steamboat to ply its trade on the St. Lawrence was built and operated by John Molson and associates, a scant two years after Fulton’s steampowered navigation of the Hudson River. The Accommodation with ten passengers made her maiden voyage from Montreal to Quebec City in 66 hours, for 30 of which she was at anchor.

Within a decade, daily service was available in the hotly-contested Montreal-Quebec route.

Cities The St. Lawrence River connects English and French Canada, and traveling the river is a journey between two cultures. The old world charm of the Province of Quebec feature landscapes, ecosystems, architecture, food, and cities that are unlike anywhere in North America.

Montreal This metropolitan city is the largest in the province of Quebec and is set on an Island in the St. Lawrence River. Widely known as a centre of culture, music, food, and fashion, Montreal also hosted the 1976 summer Olympic Games and is one of Canada's most bilingual cities.

Kingston & 1000 Islands All cruises either begin or conclude in this historic city. Kingston is located at the beginning of the St. Lawrence River and the southern mouth of the Rideau

Canal. Kingston once was a strategic military outpost and the first capital of the province of Canada.

Kingston is now a city known for its educational institutions with Queen's University, St. Lawrence College & the Royal Military College. Tourism makes up a large portion of the local economy.

A shipwreck on the shores of the St Lawrence River. Photo courtesy JP Valery on Unsplash.

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Quebec City Here you can experience the old world charm and grace of Europe. You will encounter Quebec City’s unparalleled joie de vivre (love of life) found nowhere else in North America. Enjoy Old Quebec (the only walled city in North America) with its massive ramparts still bolstering the Plains of Abraham; and Byways 12

behold the imperial green-roofed towers of the legendary Chateau Frontenac.

Because of the virtually impassable Lachine Rapids, the St. Lawrence was once continuously navigable only as far as Montreal. Opened in 1825, the Lachine Canal was the first to allow ships to pass the rapids.

St. Lawrence Seaway This river provides the basis for the commercial St. Lawrence Seaway.

In 1954, Canada and the United States agreed on the mutual construction of the St. Lawrence Seaway and Power project, connecting Montreal to Lake Erie.

The Seaway opened in 1959 and celebrated its 60 year anniversary in 2019. It is an extensive system of canals and locks, known as the St. Lawrence Seaway, and was officially opened on 26 June 1959

by Elizabeth II (representing Canada) and President Dwight D. Eisenhower (representing the United States). The Seaway, including the Welland Canal, permits ocean-going vessels to pass all the way to Lake Superior.

During the Second World War, the Battle of the St. Lawrence involved submarine and anti-submarine actions throughout the lower St. Lawrence River and the entire Gulf of St. Lawrence, Strait of Belle Isle and

Cabot Strait from May to October 1942, September 1943, and again in October and November 1944.

During this time, German U-boats sank several merchant marine ships and three Canadian warships.

The Clock Tower, photo courtesy ŠAlexandre Choquette and Tourisme MontrÊal.

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The Ohio River

The Ohio River is formed by the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers at Point State Park in Pittsburg Pittsburgh by night, Duquesne Incline in front. Photo courtesy Vidar Nordli-Mathisen on Unsplash.

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fluctuations that occasionally reach flood proportions, its fairly uniform flow has supported important commerce since settlement first began.

It is the 10th longest river in the United States.

The lower Ohio River just below Louisville is obstructed by rapids known as the Falls of the Ohio where the water level falls 26 ft. in 2 miles and is impassible for navigation. The McAlpine Locks and Dam, a shipping canal bypassing the rapids, now allows commercial navigation from the Forks of the Ohio at Pittsburgh to the Port of New Orleans at the mouth of the Mississippi on the Gulf of Mexico.

he Ohio River is a 981-mile long river formed by the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers in Pittsburgh. It flows northwest out of Pennsylvania, then in a general southwesterly direction to join the Mississippi River at Cairo, Illinois.

The Ohio forms the northern borders of West Virginia and Kentucky; and the southern borders of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. The Ohio River contributes more water to the Mississippi than does any other tributary.

At the confluence, the Ohio is considerably bigger than the Mississippi River.

The Ohio is navigable, and, despite seasonal Byways 16

History European discovery of the Ohio River may be attributed to English explorers from Virginia in the

became a primary transportation route for pioneers during the westward expansion of the early U.S. The river is sometimes considered as the western extension of the Mason–Dixon Line that divided Pennsylvania from Maryland, and thus part of the border between free and slave territory, and between the Northern and Southern United States or Upper South. Where the river was narrow, it was the way to freedom for thousands of slaves escaping to the North, many helped by free blacks and whites of the Underground Railroad resistance movement.

The river had great significance in the history of the Native Americans, as numerous civilizations formed along its valley. For thousands of years, Native Americans used the river as a major transportation and trading route.

The economic connection of the Ohio Country to the East was significantly increased in 1818 when the National Road being built westward from Cumberland, Maryland reached Wheeling, Virginia (now West Virginia), providing an easier overland connection from the Potomac River to the Ohio River.

The Wheeling Suspension Bridge was built over the river at Wheeling from 1847 to 1849, making the trip west easier. For a brief time, until 1851, it was the world’s largest suspension bridge. Fortunately, the bridge was not blown up during the American Civil War. The bridge has been improved in 1859 and 1872, and remains in use as the oldest vehicular suspension bridge in the United States.

Louisville was founded in 1779 at the only major natural navigational barrier on the river, the Falls of

latter half of the 17th century. In his Notes on the State of Virginia published in 1781–82, Thomas Jefferson stated: “The Ohio is the most beautiful river on earth.

Its current gentle, waters clear, and bosom smooth and unbroken by rocks and rapids, a single instance only excepted.”

In the late 18th century, the river was the southern boundary of the Northwest Territory. It

Built between 1847 and 1849, the Wheeling Suspension Bridge was the first bridge across the Ohio River and a crucial part of the National Road.

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Downtown Cincinnati Skyline on the Ohio River. Photo courtesy JP Valery on Unsplash.

the Ohio. The first locks on the river – the Louisville and Portland Canal – were built to circumnavigate the falls between 1825 and 1830. The increasing size of steamships and barges on the river meant that the outdated locks could only service the smallest vessels until well after the Civil War. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers improvements were expanded again in the 1960s, forming the present-day McAlpine Locks and Dam. Today, there are 20 dams on the Ohio River, managed by the Army Corps of Engineers.

The dams have greatly changed the flow of the river, creating a series of very slow moving pools rather than a free flowing river.

Steamboats Steamboats revolutionized river travel during the first half of the nineteenth century. The first steamboat to travel on the Ohio River was named the New Orleans. Although not as well-constructed as later vessels, it managed to steam its way from Pittsburgh to the city of New Orleans in 1811. Within the next few years, many additional steamboats were built in the East. Although most of the earliest Byways 18

steamboats came from Pittsburgh or Wheeling, within a short period of time Cincinnati had also emerged as a significant part of the industry. Cincinnati shipyards launched twenty-five steamboats between 1811 and 1825.

Beginning in the 1850s, railroads provided competition for the Ohio River trade but never replaced it entirely. In the twentieth century, barges carrying coal and other materials replaced steamboats.

Steamboat Morning Star, a Louisville and Evansville mail packet, in 1858. Photo courtesy Smithsonian Institution.

Wheeling Suspension Bridge. Photo courtesy Chris Light, BY-SA 3.0, and Wikimedia Commons.

Now steamboats are primarily a tourist attraction, carrying passengers on short trips along the river.

• Owensboro: the fourth-largest city in Kentucky.

Cities Along the River

• Huntington: the second-largest city in West Virginia.

Along the banks of the Ohio are some of the largest cities in their respective states:

• Parkersburg: the fourth-largest city in West Virginia.

• Pittsburgh: the largest city on the river and second-largest city in Pennsylvania.

• Wheeling: the fifth-largest city in West Virginia.

• Cincinnati: the third-largest city in Ohio.

• Louisville: the largest city in Kentucky.

• Evansville: the third-largest city in Indiana.

Other cities include Steubenville, Ohio, Parkersburg, West Virginia, Huntington, West Virginia, Ashland, Kentucky, Owensboro, Kentucky, and Paducah, Kentucky.

Cairo, Illinois, at the mouth of the Ohio on the Mississippi River, is the southernmost and westernmost city on the river.

Cities along the Ohio are also among the oldest cities in their respective states and among the oldest cities in the United States west of the Appalachian Mountains.

The Ohio River Scenic Byway follows the Ohio River through Illinois, Indiana and Ohio ending at Steubenville, Ohio, on the river.

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Barge at the Portland Canal in Louisville. Photo courtesy Joe Schneid, CC BY 3.0, and Wikimedia Commons.

Alabama’s

A private pier on Lake Martin. Photo courtesy Chris Granger and the Alabama Tourism Department.

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ake Martin is a 44,000-acre reservoir with over 750 miles of wooded shoreline located in Tallapoosa, Elmore and Coosa counties in Alabama. Lake Martin was formed by the construction of Martin Dam on the Tallapoosa River.

Construction on Martin Dam began in 1923 and was completed in 1926, creating what was at that time the largest man-made body of water in the world.

The Martin Dam powerhouse is used to generate hydroelectric power for the Alabama Power Company. Originally known as Cherokee Bluffs for the geological formation upon which it was built, the dam was renamed in 1936 in honor of Thomas Martin, the then-president of Alabama Power Company.

Alabama Power and Russell Lands own the majority of the shoreline.

Lake Martin is still one of the largest man-made lakes in the United States. It is a popular recreation area for swimming, boating, fishing, water skiing, camping, and golfing. It also the home of the Dixie Sailing Club.

There are many waterfront neighborhoods and luxury homes over all areas of the lake. Lake Martin has become a weekend getaway for many of Birmingham,

Martin Dam. Photo courtesy Alabama Power Company.

Located at the southern end of the Appalachian Mountains, the Tallapoosa River winds 258 miles from western Georgia into eastern Alabama.

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A number of islands are accessible to boaters on Lake Martin.

Photos courtesy Chris Granger and Alabama Tourism Department.

Montgomery and even Atlanta’s elite. Many exclusive multi-million dollar residences are located on the lake.

Jet skiing on Lake Martin.

The cities of Alexander City, Dadeville, Jacksons Gap, and Eclectic are nearby.

Lake Martin hosts many events throughout the year, including fishing tournaments, sailing regattas, and a giant fireworks show on the Fourth of July to celebrate Independence Day. Also included is the Alexander City Jazz Festival which has hosted such acts as BĂŠla Fleck and the Flecktones, Los Lonely Boys, and Amanda Shaw.

The annual event is held every June in downtown Alexander City and at the Lake Martin Amphitheater.

Lake Martin includes many popular attractions, including eagles nests, sand beaches, restaurants, camping areas and popular islands. The lake has

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several landmarks, including the Smith Mountain Fire Tower, Kowaliga Bridge, and several marinas.

The most recognized landmark on the lake is Chimney Rock, a large rock formation that resembles a chimney. Though Chimney Rock is located several hundred yards away, the formation which most people call Chimney Rock is actually Acapulco Rock. The area was the Tallapoosa River gorge before Martin Dam was built, and the water is more than 150 feet deep.

The story of Martin Dam and Martin Lake began as a story of energy. It continues today as a story of flood control, recreation and economic opportunity, irrigation, drinking water, and fish and wildlife habitats. Power was just the beginning.

For more information, visit: http://tallapoosacountytourism.com

Acapulco Rock in Lake Martin on the Tallapoosa River.

Photo courtesy Rebecca Hagen.

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Jackson Lake reflection of Mount Moran.

Photo courtesy U.S. National Park Service.

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View across Jackson Lake to Mt. Moran.

Photo courtesy U.S. National Park Service.

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ew landscapes in the world are as striking and memorable as that of Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming. Grand Teton has a lot to offer, whatever your interests. Mountains, valleys, lakes, rivers, and skies are home to diverse and abundant forests, wildflowers and wildlife. The park also has a rich cultural history with old homesteads and cattle ranches to explore and photograph.

At the base of the northern Tetons, Jackson Lake Byways 26

offers a plethora of activities, such as boating, sailing, or fishing, as well as several choices for lodging. It is one of the largest high altitude lakes in the United States, and is popular with visitors and locals alike.

Jackson Lake is the largest and most popular of the many lakes at Grand Teton National Park, not only because of the spectacular scenery and amenities, but also for fishing, boating, and even sailing.

Park Preservation Efforts to preserve the region as a national park began in the late 19th century, and in 1929 Grand Teton National Park was established, protecting the Teton Range’s major peaks. The valley of Jackson Hole remained in private ownership until the 1930s, when conservationists led by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. began purchasing land in Jackson Hole to be added to the existing national park. Against public opinion and with repeated Congressional efforts to repeal the measures, much of Jackson Hole was set aside for protection as Jackson Hole National Monument in 1943. The monument was abolished in 1950 and most of the monument land was added to Grand Teton National Park.

Grand Teton National Park is named for Grand Teton, the tallest mountain in the Teton Range. At 13,775 feet, Grand Teton abruptly rises more than 7,000 feet above Jackson Hole.

Today, Grand Teton National Park is one of the ten most visited national parks in the U.S., with an annual average of 2.75 million visitors.

Jackson Hole Jackson Hole is the valley between the Teton Mountain Range and the Gros Ventre Range in Wyoming sitting near the border of Idaho. The term “hole” was used by early trappers or mountain men, as a term for a large mountain valley.

Grand Teton National Park occupies the northwestern part of the valley encompassing much of the Teton Range as well as Jackson Lake. The town of Jackson is at the southern end. Between them lies, on U.S. Route 26, “Glacier View Turnout” offering a view of Teton Glacier on the north of Grand Teton, and the National Elk Refuge, home of the largest elk herd on earth.

Grand Teton National Park includes the major peaks of the 40-mile-long Teton Range as well as most of the northern sections of the valley known as Jackson Hole. Grand Teton National Park is only 10 miles south of Yellowstone National Park, to which it is connected by the National Park Service-managed John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway.

Jackson Hole Airport is the largest and busiest commercial airport in Wyoming. The Jackson Hole Airport is also the only airport in the U.S. that is located inside of a National Park.

Jackson Lake Located in northern Grand Teton National Park, Jackson Lake is accessible by the outer Teton Park Road and John D. Rockefeller Memorial Parkway.

Almost 15 miles long, Jackson Lake lies at the base of the Tetons, with Mt. Moran towards the southern end Byways 27

and Steamboat Mountain on the north end. Unlike other lakes in Grand Teton National Park, Jackson Lake is accessible during both the summer and winter.

Activities During the warm summer months, locals and visitors alike enjoy a variety of water sports on Jackson Lake, such as boating, fishing, wind-surfing, and swimming. After a full day on the lake, enjoy a cold drink and a delicious plate of nachos on the deck while watching the sun set over the Tetons.

Although jet skis are prohibited, Jackson Lake is the park’s only lake that allows water-skiing, Byways 28

wakeboarding, sailboats, and wind-surfing. Traveling without a boat? Consider renting a pontoon boat to explore the islands and inlets of Jackson Lake. Icefishing is also popular in the winter, as well as snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.

Fishing Fishing is also a popular pastime at Jackson Lake.

Cutthroat, brook and brown trout, salmon, and pike fill the lake’s deep waters.

To protect fish populations, Jackson Lake is closed to fishing in October. Ice fishing is allowed in the winter months.

Marinas Popular access points for boats include Signal Mountain, Colter Bay, and Leeks Marinas. If you are interested in renting a pontoon boat or a sailboat tour, visit the Signal Mountain marina.

Lodging, grocery stores, and gas stations are located at Signal Mountain, Colter Bay Village, and Jackson Lake Lodge. Developed campgrounds can be found at Signal Mountain, Colter Bay, and Lizard Creek.

Historic Landmark District, located in the heart of Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park. Perched at the edge of a natural terrace, the landscape offers expansive views to the Willow Flats, Jackson Lake, and the Teton Range.

For more information, visit https://www.nps.gov/grte/index.htm

The Jackson Lake Lodge cultural landscape shares a boundary with the Jackson Lake Lodge National Byways 29

Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves Bridgeport, California R osalie Flores had never heard of Charles Kuralt. Why should that surprise me?

Now 22, she “grew up quick” with the Latino gangs in New Mexico’s biggest city. The boundaries of her turbulent world were tight. As she explains it, “Life was what was happening; there was no outside world.”

Rosalie’s myopic adolescence included little of the youthful wonderment of learning. It was drugs, booze, and wildness. Today, she carries the tattoos and scars of a wasted youth. When she was 16, her boyfriend was murdered, stabbed to death on the streets of Albuquerque.

Although she dreams now of travel and maybe being a writer someday, she is not yet a reader of books.

She seldom watches television news or reads a newspaper. Growing up without these, why should she have heard of Charles Kuralt?

Starting 1967, Kuralt explored America in a motorhome. He became a premier chronicler of our country — as least to some of us. Although he retired from CBS News in 1994, he never retired from wandering or writing books about his travels. He died in 1996. His name came up when I was explaining my lifestyle to Rosalie. With most people, the Kuralt reference works – presumptuous as it may be. They know who he was and it gives them a hint as to what I’m about.

But with Rosalie it went nowhere. On a borrowed bike, she had ridden into Bridgeport from the ForestRanger Station just outside town. It was Sunday, her day off. She has a summer job mapping fences for the Forest Service. Working either on horseback or from a four-wheeler, she explores the heavily treed Toiyabe National Forest. Working alone, she occasionally camps in the woods overnight.

Maybe because we were the only two in the small Mono County Museum in Bridgeport, anyway, we

Downtown Bridgeport, California. Photo courtesy Carol M. Highsmith and the U.S. Library of Congress.

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she told me about her job near Flathead Lake last summer in a remote area of Montana. She was a fire watch. Living in a tower alone, 10 days at a time, high above everything, she insisted that those days saved her life.

got to talking. The museum is an old one – room schoolhouse packed with the implements that created Bridgeport and the nearby Bodie, which is now a touristy ghost town.

With my dog Rusty, Rosalie and I walked around Bridgeport, a one-street town, population 650.

Although the two of us are from widely separated generations and unlike backgrounds, still we were enjoying the other’s company. I had things yet to learn from Rosalie; I think that she felt the same.

At an elevation of 6,465 feet in the Sierra Nevadas, Bridgeport is set in a spacious alpine meadow with snow-capped peaks surrounding it. Restful and idyllic, it’s among the prettiest spots in California.

Through the lush grass of the meadow flow snow-fed streams that become Bridgeport Lake and East Walker River.

The town’s main street caters mostly to tourists who flow through here on Highway 395 that links Reno, Nevada with Southern California.

Rosalie and Rusty roughhoused on the lawn in front of the courthouse while I read about it aloud from a brochure. “This two-story structure originally had a 3,000 gallon water tank on the roof to supply the town’s fire hydrants. Built in 1880, its Victorian style is classic in design and one of the oldest courthouses still in use in this country.”

“There are only a couple older,” she said. “I learned that in the museum.”

Back at the motorhome, I opened drinks for us and Rosalie ate a peach that she had in her backpack. She sat on the couch with Rusty’s head in her lap. Then

“I had time to think and slow things down. I never had a chance to do that before. At first it was like ‘give me a substance’. But things flattened out, and it became a very peaceful time. Thankfully, I have been able to hang onto that.”

The boyfriend who died, she explained, was her first love. “That made him very special. But maybe losing him was the best thing for me,” she confessed. “His life was out of control. Who knows where I would be now?”

Rosalie is passionate about returning to Albuquerque to work with teenagers. “Substance abuse is wild.

Their attitude is absolute craziness, like mine was.

My mother sent me to college – never finished the first year.” She got straight F’s. She called her grades “a statement”.

At the end of the summer, she plans to return to school in Albuquerque. She discovered serenity here and in Montana that has changed her life, but she has no plans to leave New Mexico. “I’m a desert person, my home is the southwest – the music, the food, the fiestas, the men. I love the men.” She insisted, “I’m pumped up about getting home.”

About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns. of America.

He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com.

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By Dr. JohnA. Kirchner

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For many visitors to Seattle their first view of Lake Union is from the Space Needle. Photos courtesy Dr. JohnA. Kirchner.

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eattle, a city known for its water location, has salt water Puget Sound to the west and fresh water Lake Washington to the east.

Between them lies a natural freshwater feature, Lake Union, a fascinating body of water that is tied to both its adjacent waters by the manmade Lake Washington Ship Canal, with locks, which allows vessels to move across the city.

Lake Union occupies a basin created by the extinct Vashon glacier. It was formed about 12,000 years ago, and thus, in geological time, is a fairly modern creation of the post Pleistocene (Ice Age).

For many tourists, their first view of Lake Union is from the Space Needle. Located close to downtown Seattle, a modest walking distance or an easy ride by streetcar, the lake offers a dynamic that makes it a great place for visitors.

Some folks, however, are surprised to learn that swimming is not recommended, which is because this clean lake is such a busy place, with boats and aircraft constantly coming and going.

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The south end of the lake from water level aboard a float plane with a

AKenmoreAir Dehavilland Turbo Otter, a 10-passenger turboprop used throughout the Puget Sound region.

At the KenmoreAir dock, South Lake Union.

a good view of the Seattle Museum of History & Industry.

This dynamic is one of the things that makes it so interesting to visit. The view from the air or from adjacent hilly neighborhoods is dramatic. One can hike or bike a scenic 6.4 mile loop trail around the lake and discover a great variety of attractions — parks, museums, pubs, restaurants, craft shops, bike rental shops, and docks for everything from fishing boats to aircraft.

Yes, aircraft! Lake Union is home to several floatplane operators, the largest of which is Kenmore Airlines, a carrier in business since 1946. Its high wing six-passenger DeHavilland Beavers and tenpassenger DeHavilland Turbo-Otters can take you on short, but stunning flightseeing trips over Seattle, or on longer flights over Puget Sound to the beautiful San Juan Islands and even to Canada.

Even if you don’t fly, just watching the float planes take off and land on Lake Union is a reward in itself.

A favorite to look for is a Turbo-Otter painted as an Orca (Killer Whale).

Boat traffic on the lake can be intense, with everything from kayaks to deep sea fishing boats, and Byways 35

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some bigger vessels, like tugs, barely squeeze through the canal locks. Boat rentals and water tours are available, and one sees kayaks, small boats, sailboats and yachts enjoying the calm waters. At the south end is 12.0 acre Lake Union Park, the Center for Wooden Boats, and the Museum of History & Industry.

At the north end is 19.1 acre Gas Works Park, the location of a former gasification plant that dates from 1906. The park, with its rust colored relic, is a favorite with locals.

In closing, Lake Union is a beehive of interesting activities.

Many of its functions are industrial, with dry docks and boat repair facilities, but right next to these one can find house boats and quaint residential neighborhoods, the latter often on steep hills with super views of the lake.

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The great variety of things to see and do makes Lake Union a special place, attractive to residents and visitors alike. It is an artist’s pallet, yet does not have the feel of a tourist venue and that is exactly why many visitors give it five stars.

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Docks, dry docks, and larger commercial vessels, including tugs.

Interstate 5 can be seen in the middle background.

Asailboat near South Lake Union, with cityscape in background.

Ron Judd, Seattle Times writer, so nicely sums it up: “It is controlled chaos …one of the most simultaneously chaotic and calming urban bodies of water anywhere in North America. The lake we all take for granted -- a rare intersection of recreation, residences, parklands, heavy industry and (yes!) nature….”

About the Author: Dr. John A. Kirchner is professor emeritus of Geosciences from California State University, Los Angeles. An inveterate traveler and photographer, he specializes in the geography of transportation systems, including airlines, marine transport, and railroads.

For more information, visit https://visitseattle.org

An aerial view of Gas Works Park at the north end of Lake Union.

Built in 1906, the former gasification plant is today the heart of a vast open space which is favored by locals for recreational use, or simply for relaxing.

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AREA15 Exterior. Photos courtesy Laurent Velazquez.

REA15 in Las Vegas is an experimental retail and entertainment complex offering live events, immersive activations, art installations and more.

A

The backbone tying everything together is the spine, an ever-changing corridor filled with one-of-a-kind art installations, engaging brand activations, unique commerce and inspiring food and beverage offerings.

It is located minutes from the Las Vegas Strip, and is the world’s first purpose-built experiential entertainment complex. It offers live events, immersive activations, monumental art installations, extraordinary design elements, unique retail, groundbreaking technology, bars and eateries and more.

With a growing collection of dynamic destinations including Emporium, Oddwood Bar, Dueling Axes, a culinary experience by Todd English, Lost Spirits Distillery and its anchor experience, Meow Wolf Las Vegas, AREA15’s ever-changing art, retail and entertainment attractions will draw locals and tourists following its summer 2020 opening.

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AREA15’s “Ibuku” Bamboo Volcano and The SPINE.

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AREA15. Photos courtesy Laurent Velazquez.

o e d i V r o Click f

Its 40,000 square foot of indoor and outdoor event space is ideally suited for live music, festivals, corporate events, private parties and esports tournaments.

real estate development firm Fisher Brothers and creative agency Beneville Studios, both of New York.

AREA15 represents a collaborative venture between

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AREA15 open area.

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For more information visit https://area15.com

Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America.

Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators / Travel Trade. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways.

Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents,

bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, meeting planners and the travel trade. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ŠCopyright 2020 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved.

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